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DELI BUSINESS Quiz ALSO INSIDE: SPECIAL Grab-And-Go SECTION Hispanic Foods Prosciutto Turkey Oct./Nov. ’07 Deli $14.95 Pizza Blue Cheese French Cheese BUSINESS Organics Starting on 21 Olives Packaging TheThe StudentStudent SurpassesSurpasses TheThe MasterMaster American cheeses take the world stage. OCT./NOV. ’07 • VOL. 12/NO. 5 Deli TABLE OF CONTENTS MERCHANDISING REVIEW BUSINESS Six Options For Profitable Grab-And-Go ......35 Opportunities to effectively merchandise for consumers on the go. COVER STORY MERCHANDISING REVIEW Hispanic Food Holds Ground In Deli Department ..........................39 The growing Hispanic segment offers opportunities for deli retailers to expand offerings. SPECIAL DELI MEATS SECTION Prosciutto di Parma ......................................44 America’s love affair with this Italian delicacy has only just begun. DELI MEATS Deli Poultry: Opportunity For Traffic And Profits ..................................48 Poultry is the strongest protein offering Starting on in the deli — and it continues to grow! page 21 PREPARED FOODS Who Ordered Pizza? ....................................51 COVER PHOTO COURTESY OF FISCALINI FARMSTEAD CHEESE COMPANY OF FISCALINI FARMSTEAD COURTESY PHOTO COVER 1144 Make America’s favorite food deliver in your deli. COMMENTARY EDITOR’S NOTE PROCUREMENT Tesco’s Prepared Foods Challenge ..............10 Organic Growth In Deli ................................63 Ironically, Tesco may be in more trouble if it has an Although organics is still an emerging segment instant success than if it struggles. in the deli department, retailers are exploring the growing options in this promising category. PUBLISHER’S INSIGHTS Do We Really Want To PROCUREMENT Win The Obesity Battle? ............................12 Beyond The Olive Bar ..................................66 It is vital the food industry promotes responsible food Olives come into their own as consumption and supports opportunities for people to a category with cross-merchandising appeal. begin to get physically active. MANAGEMENT MARKETING PERSPECTIVE Developments In Packaging..........................72 Excellence Comes In Many Forms ..............77 Today’s packaging innovations are extending I believe the most overlooked aspects shelf life and increasing impulse sales, while in retailing are customer relationships becoming friendlier to the environment. and an appreciation of the human factor. DEPARTMENT IN EVERY ISSUE SPECIALTY CHEESE CORNER Specialty Blue Cheese ..................................56 DELI BUSINESS Quiz ........................................4 Growing consumer knowledge and sophistication bode well for specialty blues. Deli Watch ..................................................6 TechNews ..................................................76 French Cheese At Its Best ............................60 Information Showcase................................78 Pasteurized and raw milk versions of classic Blast From The Past ..................................78 French cheeses excite American palates. DELI BUSINESS (ISSN 1088-7059) is published by Phoenix Media Network, Inc., P.O. Box 810425, Boca Raton, FL 33481-0425 POSTMASTER: Send address changes to DELI BUSINESS, P.O. Box 810217, Boca Raton, FL 33481-0217 OCT./NOV.2007 DELI BUSINESS 3 Specialty Cheese Corner French Cheese At Its Best By Karen Silverston lassic French cheeses are the world chamber are all contributors to the character 1070. Sheep prevail in Midi-Pyrénées, with benchmark. They are the vocabu- of Comté. its limestone plateaus, deep green gorges and Clary through which we understand Pressed uncooked cheeses originated in cascades. nearly all cheese. Although it is classic, Goat cheeses come from the heart the category is not only growing signifi- of France: Poitou and Center. Burgundy, cantly but also continuously evolving. Perigord, Provence, Savoy and Pyrénées Soft-bloomy and washed-rind Pasteurized and raw milk versions produce adored classics, too. cheeses epitomize Normandy. Rocky, drizzly seacoast, salty marshes and cider of classic French cheeses Market Revolution orchards border meadows and lush pas- “We are among the largest foreign tures. The famous milk of the Nor- excite American palates. suppliers of specialty cheese to the Unit- mande breed of cattle reflects the ed States, and the United States is our unique grasses. seventh largest market for cheese. It is Soft-ripened cheeses originated in so strategic we decided to launch a gentle Ile de France, where rivers separate Jura, Savoy, Auvergne and Pyrénées. Mor- campaign in the U.S. market,” says Eric rolling, wooded hills from farms, and in bier was made hundreds of years ago when Duchene, head of the New York, NY-based Champagne Ardenne, which is known more winter in Jura prevented milk delivery to French Trade Office for French food and for its vineyards and forests than its tidy Comté fruitières. Its thin black line of ash is wine exports to the United States. farms. imitated in many modern cheeses. “Ten years ago, we sold less than 8,000 Washed-rind techniques were used by Auvergne’s drum-shaped cheeses origi- tons, and in 2006, we sold 22,000 tons. It’s a seventh-century Benedictine monks in nated 2,000 years ago in the Cantal Moun- revealing increase — the biggest in all of Alsace. Grapes were thriving in Alsace long tains. Mountain ranges converge in green France’s markets in the world. The increase before viticulture became serious under the Auvergne, the heart of Europe’s largest vol- in U.S. producers is good for us, too. We see Romans. canic system. Hot springs, lakes, rivers, and the sophistication of the U.S. market Pressed, cooked mountain cheeses — forests abound, and the Châtaigneraie increasing, and it is not concentrated only in such as wheels of Comté made from 500 chestnut grove occupies 500,000 acres. Manhattan, Boston and San Francisco — liters of milk — represent farmers cooperat- Blue-veined cheeses all benefit from it’s a major trend. It’s not only the small spe- ing since the 11th century in the Jura Moun- Roquefort’s place of honor. Each legendary cialist shop or the intermediate market — tains. The Montbéliarde milk, artisan sheep’s milk blue, aged a minimum of three Whole Foods [based in Austin, TX] has his- process, spruce boards on which the cheese months, ripens for at least 14 days in cool, torically carried cheese. Supermarkets are slowly ages, and the airflow in the aging humid Combalou caves, first mentioned in entering this business. All the French pro- ducers have someone as close as possible to the market to help give buyers confidence,” adds Duchene. The Cheeses of France campaign is building awareness via Parlez Vous Fromage? sampling events. Participants include Shop Rite, Kings and Pathmark stores in New York and New Jersey, Kroger stores in Vir- ginia and North Carolina, Harris Teeter stores in Virginia, North Carolina and South Carolina, and A&P stores across the North- east and Mid-Atlantic. “We’re actively work- ing with other chains on scheduling,” says Sue Till, marketing director for Swardlick Marketing Group, Portland, ME. Cheese Evolution “Producing fresh and soft cheeses — Brie, goat cheeses, the ones you don’t age — from raw milk has challenges that aged cheeses, in particular pressed cooked PHOTO COURTESY OF COMTE CHEESE ASSOCIATION cheeses, don’t have,” notes Emmanuelle French cheeses set the standards by which all cheeses are judged. Hofer Louis, director of marketing for Anco 60 DELI BUSINESS OCT./NOV.2007 Specialty Cheese Corner Fine Cheese, based in Fairfield, NJ. Many classics made from raw milk and ripened cheese specialist Robert Rouzaire. “The production of raw milk fresh and enjoyed in France have soul mates made “It’s the exception to the category. Where soft cheeses in France is more limited nowa- from pasteurized milk that comply with most Brie is mild, this is stronger, fruitier and days than it used to be. Even some AOC much more like what a raw milk Brie would [Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée] organiza- taste like,” says David Grotenstein, general tions have softened their rules by allowing manager of Union Market, Brooklyn, NY. pasteurized products to have the protected Le Chatelain Brie was designed to have designation as long as they comply with all the same appeal as Le Chatelain Camem- other characteristics.” explains Hofer Louis. “PEOPLE ARE bert, a pasteurized cheese with the greater “That allows more people — in France and aroma and more pronounced flavor associat- abroad — to have access to those traditional POLARIZED ABOUT ed with raw milk. cheeses. Authenticity also comes with pas- “France has two kinds of Camembert: teurization — the careful respect of tradi- PASTEURIZED AND the pasteurized one for everyday and the tional animal feed, age-old cheesemaking RAW MILK.IBELIEVE AOC raw milk one for entertaining. The recipes as well as traditional aging processes, pasteurized version is milder and more con- along with advanced milk pasteurization THERE IS A MIDDLE sistent in its taste profile than the AOC one, techniques, make the cheese look and taste which makes it more suitable for daily con- authentic with even more regularity.” GROUND.” sumption,” says Anco’s Hofer Louis. “The trend of producing cheese from Chaource AOC, known in Champagne pasteurized milk isn’t limited to French — Francois Kerautret since the 14th century, is so silky it is often cheese for the U.S. market. It’s happening for Peterson Company mistaken for a double or triple cream, but its cheese destined for French, European Union fat measure, 50 percent
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