VALLEY EDITION Coo Angeles

FRIDAY, MAY 20, 1994 COPYRIGHT I 994/111E TIMES MIRROR COMPANY/ F/CCt/ 1110 PP

• CECIL STO IGHTON / Associated Pram Jacqueline Bouvier, upper left, with then-Sen. John F. at the residence in Hyannis Port, Mass., in 1953. Above, she watches, Lyndon B. Johnson take the oath of office after Kennedy's assassination in 1963. Left, with brother-in-law Edward M. Kennedy and her children, John Jr. and Caroline, in 1992.

Los Angeles Times Jacqueline Onassis Dies; First Lady of `Camelot' Was 64 • Legacy: President Kennedy's widow captivated the nation by defining elegance, and braving tragedy. She loses her months-long struggle with lymph cancer.

By GERALDINE BAUM, TIMES STAFF WRITER NEW YORK—Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy Onassis, the most elegant, cultured yet tragic First Lady of the modern era, died Thursday night of cancer. She was 64. At her side in her spacious 5th Avenue apartment were her daughter, She Captured Schlossberg, 36; her son, John F. Kennedy Jr., 33, and her longtime companion Maurice Tempelsman, a Hearts and New York financier and diamond dealer. "Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis Shaped Dreams was a model of courage and dignity for all Americans and all the world," President Clinton said in a By SHAWN HIJBLER statement. "More than any other and STANLEY MEISLER woman of her time, she captivated TIMES STAFF WRITERS our nation and the world with her NEW YORK—She was, in life, intelligence, elegance and grace," the most private of citizens, the Mrs. Onassis had entered New most public of American icons. And York Hospital-Cornell Medical so it was in death that Jacqueline Center on Monday for further Kennedy Onassis was doubly treatment of non-Hodgkin's lym- mourned on Thursday—both as the phoma. But she asked to return to complex woman beloved by family her apartment that faces Central and friends and as the womanly Park on Wednesday after doctors ideal revered by a generation of decided that the disease could not Americans. be stopped. • "In times of hope, she captured "There was nothing more to do our hearts," said Lady Bird John- for her," her close friend Nancy son, the former First Lady, from Tuckerman told reporters. As word her home in Stonewall, Tex. "In of the gravity of her illness spread Thursday afternoon, crowds flocked to an exhibit in her honor • HER LIFE IN PICTURES: A4 at the John F. Kennedy Library in a RELATED STORIES: A5, A18 Boston to view, among other mem- orabilia, a film of her tour of the White House as First Lady and to tragedy, her courage helped salve gaze admiringly at the maroon- a nation's grief. She was an image and-cream-colored gown she wore of beauty and romance and leaves more than 30 years ago at a White an empty place in the world pz. House dinned: have known it." And it is, in fact, that vision of Dean Rusk, secretary of state the First Lady—in a satin ball during the administrations of Pres- gown or perhaps trim in a tailored idents John F. Kennedy and Lyn- suit and pillbox hat—that most don B. Johnson, recalled her as "an Americans will recall when they extraordinary woman, beautiful, remember Mrs. Onassis. gracious. She carried with her all As the 31-year-old wife of John the pomp that was necessary and Please see ONASSIS, A5 Please see TRIBUTES, A5 Jacqueline Onassis Retrospective

1939 1947 1953 1963 1975 he was an enduring symbol of the heady `Camelot' period. Her life was filled with privilege, politics and tragedy

MILEPOST Oct. 20, 196 Stuns many admirers wb she marries Aristotle do a 62-year-ol Greek tyeoo

1975: SheU New York w Onassis dies in a Paris hospital s after a long illness; he leaves her only $120,000, but are wins a $26-million ,,) settlement from stepdaughter,41, Christina. . ci Associated Press 1975: She goelf Photographer Mel Finkelstein slips to work as an : Viking United Press International while trying to capture photo of editor for Press. With Caroline, 7, in 1965. Onassis in 1968. ,ii•

-); 1978: Joins .f,0 Doubleday kgcp.; among her :us, bestsellers is- Michael us-i Jackson's :r "Moonwalk."„Tt

February, 199* She discloses ne that she has non- Hodg kink, lymphoma., larA .;5.2 Monday: She admitted to Me4v York Hospitaf'as a result of seribtis complications bf her malignant '° lymphoma."

Wednesday: Sl is discharged 'aih accordance Witfi the patient's clearly expreeied' wishes," the, ' hospital says'in a prepared statement.

Thursday: Het4 children rush YE; her side as -91 condition worsens; she dies Associated Press late ThursdaYP- night. With Aristotle Onassis on their wedding day, at Skorpios Island, Greece. .?"1.

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Reuters + * 0". Onassis with Edward M. Kennedy at the wedding of her daughter, Caroline, in 1.986. - Photo by Jacques Lowe Jacqueline looks on as Caroline gives her father a kiss, in Hyannis Port, Mass. MILEPOSTS

1951: Jacqueline Bouvier meets John F. Kennedy, then a member of the House, at a dinner party,

1953: She and Kennedy announce their engagement.

Sept. 12, 1953: Archbishop Richard J. Cushing of Boston marries them. on their wedding day. Her official White House portrait. November, 1957: She gives birth to Caroline.

1960: She accompanies Kennedy on the campaign trail in his bid for the presidential nomination; in the fall, she makes brief speeches in Spanish and Italian at campaign rallies in New York.

November, 1960: Their son, John Jr., is born.

January, 1961: At the age of 31, she becomes the nation's 31st First Lady.

August, 1963: She gives birth to , but the infant dies after three days.

Nov. 22, 1963: She cradles her husband in her arms after he is shot while his motorcade rolls Associated Press through Dallas. She receives the flag that draped her husband's coffin, on Nov. 25, 1963. Response to Treatment Is Key to Battling Lymphoma Mrs. Onassis' cancer was diagnosed in loss and fever. There is generally little pain. By THOMAS H. MAUGH It TIMES MEDICAL WRITER January and she was hospitalized most re- Among AIDS victims and transplant patients, cently at the beginning of the week for what the most common cause is the Epstein-Barr , lthough non-Hodgkin's lymphoma like was described as complications of the ther- virus, which also causes mononucleosis. It is Athat contracted by Jacqueline Kennedy apy. A hospital spokesman announced Thurs- also believed to be caused by exposure to Onassis is normally considered one of the day that all treatment had been halted and industrial chemicals and pesticides, which more curable cancers, nearly half of those she had returned home. may be why it is more common among who develop it die within five years. Non-Hodgkin's lymphoma is a cancer of farmers. "Even in the best of [treatment] programs, the immune system—specifically the lymph "But for any individual case, we generally one-third of patients don't respond well, and nodes and the lymphocytes, cells that protect don't know the exact cause," said Dr. Cary , two-thirds ultimately die of the disease," said the body against invading bacteria. Presant, an oncologist who is president of the ; Dr. Rex Greene, chief of the cancer teaching The incidence has been rising, reaching California section of the American Cancer program at Huntington Memorial Hospital in about 43,000 a year, because the disease is Society. Pasadena. relatively common in AIDS patients, organ And if the initial treatment is not success- transplant recipients and other people whose 7 he complications of lymphoma treatment ful, the disease can progress rapidly. "That's immune systems have been suppressed. An I include low white cell counts, bleeding, the nature of lymphoma. It's especially ag- estimated 21,200 people will die of it this year, infections, nausea, diarrhea and general gas- gressive," Greene said. Because chemothera- according to the American Cancer Society. trointestinal discomfort. py targets rapidly dividing cells, it is often The disease most commonly strikes people "These are very toxic medications we use successful against lymphomas, which are over 50 and, for unknown reasons, is becom - to treat it," Greene said. "When they don't fast-growing cancers. ing increasingly common among those over work, we have the side effects of chemother- "But if they don't respond to treatment, 65. It is somewhat more common in men than apy on top of the direct effects of the they can come roaring back," Greene said. in women. tumor—a potent combination. With a fast- "Some lymphomas can double in size in the The characteristic symptoms of lymphoma growing cancer, it is hard to distinguish space of a couple of weeks." are enlarged lymph nodes, anemia, weight which is causing which problem."

President Clinton with Mrs. Onassis and her children, John Jr. and Caroline, at re-dedication ceremony at J.F.K. Library in Boston last October. October. last Boston in Library J.F.K. at ceremony re-dedication at Caroline, and Jr. John children, her and Onassis Mrs. with Clinton President

LOS LOS

ANGELES TIMES TIMES ANGELES

JACQUELINE KENNEDY ONASSIS: 1929-1994 1929-1994 ONASSIS: KENNEDY JACQUELINE Reuters Reuters * FRIDAY, MAY 20, 1994. A5

TRIBUTES: Mighty, also for her tremendous courage." Meanwhile, in the chilly night- time drizzle that cloaked her 5th Avenue apartment, well-dressed women and sanitation workers, Mundane Mourn a grandmothers and schoolchildren, native New Yorkers and tourists from around the world gazed up in mournful respect. Woman of Courage "It isn't just a famous person dying," said Kitty Kelley, author of Continued from Al the biography, "Jackie Oh!" "It is she was a great hostess at the our very last connection to the White House." magic of the Kennedy era. . . But others chose to emphasize She didn't leave behind a great the less sweeping qualities of the body of work but she did leave slender brunette who—in what something quite intangible and seemed a more innocent time— magic—a sense of style." charmed America as a graceful Throughout her public life, First Lady and then eased its Onassis has been known as a shy anguish as a stoic young widow. woman who tried to shun reporters "About 48 hours after the assas- and cameras but never could es- sination [of President Kennedy], cape the glare of the media as it she went around to many of Jack's tried to satisfy the curiosity of closest staff and presented them millions of Americans. with mementos of his—things she thought they would appreciate," n her final hours as she fought recalled Pierre Salinger, Kenne- I her illness in the seclusion of her dy's press secretary. apartment. scores of journalists "But all the time, you know she crowded outside the exclusive was thinking: 'How am I going to building. Television trucks and get these two little kids through special antennas stretched to the the rest of their lives?' The fact edge of the Metropolitan Museum that she came and put her arms of Art a couple of blocks away. around me at that moment was In Washington, Clinton said that stunning. There were lots of times he and his wife, First Lady Hillary when Jackie was not very public Rodham Clinton, had received up- but, in private, she was extremely dates on her condition up until the strong." time of her death. Meanwhile, relatives and close er admirers, who rushed to friends entered the apartment to Hextol her legacy and flocked to stand at her bedside and then take gather in silence around the luxu- solace in each other. Her son, rious apartment where 33-year-old John F. Kennedy Jr., she died, were a cross section of ran across 5th Avenue from Cen- America at its most mighty and tral Park in the morning so he mundane. could rush into the building with- Millionaires and heads of state out replying to questions from praised her courage and charm. reporters. Daughter Caroline Ken- "Few women throughout history nedy Schlossberg, 36, and her hus- have touched the hearts and band, Edwin, came to the bedside shaped the dreams of Americans as well. more profoundly than Jacqueline President Kennedy's last sur- Kennedy Onassis," former Presi- viving brother, Sen. Edward M. dent said in a Kennedy (D-Mass.) and his wife, statement that was echoed by for- Victoria, had arrived in the early mer President George Bush and evening after a flight. from Wash- President Clinton. "Nancy and I have always ad- mired this remarkable woman, not only for her grace and dignity, but Through the assassination of Kennedy in 1963; through her ington. subsequent marriage to the older Others who joined the vigil in- Greek millionaire Aristotle Onas- cluded Onassis' sister, Lee Radzi- sis; through Onassis's subsequent will Ross, and two of President death in 1975; through the maturi- Kennedy's sisters—Eunice Shriver ty of her two children and her and Patricia Kennedy Lawford. entry into the book publishing Her brother-in-law, Sargent business in New York—through all Shriver, arrived with Eunice. Their these phases of her adulthood, that daughter, television reporter Maria aura of glamour survived. Shriver, also stopped by. "I think the Kennedy phenome- Sen. Kennedy, after visiting his na, as some of us refer to it who sister-in-law for 90 minutes, told were not much younger than they reporters just before her death that were when they were in the White Mrs. Onassis is "enormously grate- House, certainly had an influence ful to all the people who have been on a generation—my whole gener- kind enough to send her notes ation—as well as myself," said Los wishing her well." Angeles City Councilwoman Jackie Meanwhile, her nephew, R4p. Goldberg, a longtime Democrat and Joseph Kennedy (D-Mass.), the former activist during her college son of the late Robert F. Kennedy, years at UC Berkeley. "We saw the Kennedys as a stressed another side of the sad vigil. "There's a lot of love in her family that was going to [addreSs] room and in her apartment," he the issues of quality of life, of told reporters. preventing a war, of dealing with civil rights, of encouraging com- he media outside chronicled all munity service and encouraging • Tthe comings and goings, not looking out for fellow human be- surprising since she was widely ings." viewed as the most glamorous pf Goldberg's colleague, Zev Yaro- American first ladies, a shy yet slaysky, added that, as a parent sophisticated woman who spoke himself, he "admired her in the French and immersed herself ;in way she has raised her two kids." the history of the White House. "These are two—John Kennedy Jr. and Caroline Kennedy [Schlossberg—who) are very obvi- ously, normal, productive citizens. `Few women throughout "They have not, as far as we know, had any of the problems that history have touched the some of the kids of other prominent hearts and shaped the families have had. And what I admire most about her, and from dreams of Americans what I know about her, [is that] she more profoundly than has invested more of her energy and time into raising those kids Jacqueline Kennedy well than she has anything elSe. Onassis.' And it has shown." Times staff writers Josh Gatlin In RONALD REAGAN New York, Pamela Warrick, Bettina Box all, Michelle Williams and Karen Wada in Los Angeles contributed to this story. Hubler reported from Los Angeles and Meister reported from New York. ONASSIS: 'Model of Courage, Dignity' Dies

Onlookers gather across the street from the 5th Avenue apartment building of Jacqueline Onassis.Reuters

Continued from Al PACennedy, the 35th President of the United States, she set a stand- and a striped shirt, chasing after ard of elegance, and with her her two small children on a warm handsome husband enlivened the summer's day. There was the des- country with a sense of youth and perate wife climbing over the back beauty. She immediately made a seat of the limousine where her park by transforming the White husband lay mortally wounded in liouse from the dowdy rec room of pallas in 1963. And finally, there the Eisenhower years into a histor- was The First Widow, standing in ic jewel that was important not low heels, tears barely visible be- only on state occasions but also on 'hind a black veil as her 3-year-old 'weekdays when it was open for son saluted the riderless horse at public tours. her husband's funeral. Yet so many indelible images or the sake of fairy tale, the remain of the lithe, dark-haired images should have ended First Lady. There were the Life .there, with the 39-year-old widow magazine pictures of her as a 9uietly moving into the country- young mother at Hyannis Port, side to ride horses, raise her chil- slender in Capri-style white nants dren and preserve her husband's .Tegend. „Theodore H. White, in his mem- oir, "In Search of History," recalls not include the 32 books about with their mother, it was their the night in Hyannis Port when he her). Yet she almost never talked father whom they adored and who to the media. talked with then-Mrs. Kennedy continued to shape their sensibili- from 8:30 in the morning until While she may have been the ties and direct their education. midnight about her late husband's most public "private" person in the Their mother, meanwhile, plied White House years. She purged world, to her colleagues in the them with a passion for social herself of her husband's bloody publishing world where she toiled climbing—and money. assassination after the long day, he for 16 years, she was nothing less Jacqueline, who was studying than intimate. gaid. Then she found the thought ballet and taking riding lessons by t Paul Golob, now a senior editor she wanted. the time she was 5, attended the "Her message was his message— at Times Books who worked with best schools: Miss Porter's and Miss that one man, by trying, may Mrs. Onassis at Doubleday, said she Chapin's, where she fisted in her took a genuine interest in young change it all," White wrote. yearbook that her goal was "not to Thus, he said, she tried to frame people in publishing and was often be a housewife." her husband's legacy as the legend willing to take them under her Unhappy at Vassar College, she wing. After Golob left Doubleday of Camelot. rebelled by eating pastries and But Jackie Kennedy's fable did four years ago, they exchanged studying all night. After a junior not quite stick. The myth was so notes and she even invited him for year at the Sorbonne in Paris she often sullied by revelations of her tea and finger sandwiches in her returned to finish her degree in apartment. husband's mistresses and manipu- 1951 at George Washington Uni- lative behavior that periodic re- On another occasion, during a versity. Instead of taking the Prix membrances of Camelot are often discussion on a book he was work- de Paris essay prize that she won ing on about politics, Golob re- tempered. from Vogue magazine and spend- And for the young widow, life called how "she got a faraway look ing a year in Paris, she accepted a and told me how Jack would take also evolved. $42.50-a- week job as an "inquiring She went on to live essentially her into the Senate Gallery and photographer" at the Washington two more lives. First., overseas point out Senators Russell and with the wealthy, and flamboyant Mansfield. It was as if it were my Greek shipping tycoon Aristotle mom telling me about what she and Onassis, who many said she mar- dad had done when they were first ried to escape a recklessly voyeur- married. It was very personal and intimate." istic world. And later in a quiet, elite corner of Manhattan where And it was not uncommon for she doted on her three grandchil- the people who worked with her, dren, worked as a book editor and Golob added, to see her in typical made the social rounds for worthy editor motion; "sprinting down the Times-Herald. hall to get something into some- causes. ft was then that the 23-year-old one's hands on deadline," Bouvier met Jack Kennedy, 12 nd on occasion, much the way This incarnation of her—happy, years her senior, at a dinner party she did as recently as Sunday, A caught up in a workaday job—is at the home of his friend, journalist Mrs. Onassis simply blended in quite jarring considering the be- Charles Bartlett. At the time Bou- with the other strollers in Central ginnings of Jacqueline Bouvier. vier was engaged to a New York Park, usually holding hands with She was born to an aristocratic stockbroker, but she apparently Tempelsman or trailing her tod- family in Southampton, N.Y. couldn't resist a dashing young dling grandchildren. Her father was John Vernon man so much like her father. She survived being among the Bouvier III, an exotically hand- From accounts in several greatest female icons of the 20th some bon vivant known as "Black books—both learned and lurid— Century by behaving almost per- Jack" who dwindled a $750,000 the young Jackie comes across as a fectly. She maintained a rare grace inheritance into a $100,000 estate. strong-minded, tough, yet and composure, refused to give in sensi- He was a serial womanizer who tive woman who was attracted to to America's obsession with per- could not even get through his the junior congressman from Mas- . sonal revelation and she not only honeymoon with Janet Lee— sachusetts both for love and for his outlived two husbands but pre- daughter of a self-made million- considerable family wealth. Be vailed over their disloyalty, aire—without launching an affair. was worth $10 million, so it and fortune on her was achieving fame After having two daughters— said, at the time of their meeting own terms. first Jacqueline and then Lee, 31/2 and her family's fortune was virtu- Known in later life for her years later—the Bouviers di- ally dried up. trademark oversized sunglasses vorced. Jacqueline was only 10 When they married in Septem- and by monikers such as "Jackie yearli old. Though the girls lived ber, 1953, in front of 3,000 guests, " she has more entries in the O, there is sufficient evidence that Reader's Guide of Periodicals than +— almost anybody else (and that does Please see ONASSIS, A18 age. "She had a will of iron," West later wrote, "with more determi- nation than anyone I have ever met. Yet she was so soft-spoken, so Continued from A5 deft and subtle that she could Jackie Kennedy had been appro- impose that will upon people with- priately warned about her hus- out their ever knowing it." band's womanizing, his boisterous Yet while Jackie was said to if not overbearing family and the have lived an oddly remote life in Kennedy obsession with athletics. the White House, she got her (She broke an ankle early on husband's attention when he got trying to join in a game of touch the bills for her clothing expendi- football.) tures. Yet he was unable to reform The Kennedy sisters did not her and, though the President was much take to Jackie, ridiculing her only making $100,000 a year, the little-girl voice and pronouncing family expenses rose from $105,446 her name "Jacklean" to rhyme in 1961 to $121,462 in 1962. with queen. She didn't much like After the death of their infant them either, calling them "the son Patrick in the summer of rah-rah girls." 1963—following a miscarriage and In the first six years of their the births of Caroline in 1957 and marriage, John Kennedy spent John in 1960—the First Lady took most of the time campaigning, a long cruise with her sister on the traversing his home state, travel- yacht of Lee's then-boyfriend Ar- ing the country. Mostly, his wife istotle Onassis. When the First disdained the role of campaigning Lady returned she was refreshed spouse, apparently out of shyness and relaxed. Former Washington and a dislike of crowds. Post editor Ben Bradlee wrote: Once in the White House, "She greeted J.F.K. with the most though, she fulfilled seemingly affectionate embrace we'd ever well the role of the pre-feminist seen them give one another." First Lady: She was the epitome of In a month, the President was womanhood. Hers was not the job dead. to advise on health care and for- It is still amazing to recall her eign policy; rather, she dressed like presence of mind, of history and of a princess, hosted extraordinary theater in the hours and days after parties and oversaw the upbring- his assassination. ing of her children with the help of As she was returning from Dal- a British nanny. las, Lady Bird Johnson asked her if But America seemed willing to she wanted to change out of her forgive such upper-class indul- blood-caked suit. Jackie declined, gences. Following in the footsteps saying: "I want them to see what of the matronly Mamie Eisenhow- they have done to Jack." Once er, Jackie, as the country came to back in Washington she had the think of her, was a glamorous Library of Congress research the model for women to pattern them- details of Lincoln's funeral and selves after. When she made it a immediately ordered the White mission to bring art and culture to House upholsterers to drape the the White House, it was as if she black cambric that was usually were the country's chief docent. used to cover the bottoms of chairs Televised evenings with perform- uver the windows, mantels and ers such as cellist Pablo Canals chandeliers because that was how made Midwestern housewives feel it was done for Lincoln's wake. that, for a moment, the same thing • Her dignity at that time perhaps might happen in their own shag- did the most to seal her persona— carpeted living rooms. she was frozen in that queenly A a Mrs. Kennedy, she was pose, her face composed for the 1-1.. nearly universally adored— nation. even when she was impatient with "When Jack was assassinated," questions about' her clothes or said Michael Beschloss, presiden- when her eyes glazed over during tial scholar and historian, "it was a her husband's speeches. She was so time in which America's image in engaging that wherever her mind front of the world could have been was drifting, the public was willing badly damaged. That she carried to slavishly follow. off the next four days with such When she undertook the $2 -mil- majesty not only retrieved Ameri- lion renovation of the White can stature, but also increased it. House, then-Chief Usher J. Ber- • Her place in history will probably nard West was Mitpunded at her pivot around those critical four grasp of detail ancrgit her ability to days." get things done at such a young In the next phase of her life the widow found the kind of security that her first marriage did not provide. She wanted to be finan- cially set and protected, so she became a rich man's adorninent. 4 soft-spoken, so deft and Though she had more appropri,4 ate suitors—including Lord Har'' subtle that she could lech and Robert McNamara—by impose that will upon the spring of 1968 she was hecom-. people without their ever ing increasingly involved with' Onassis, who seemed always to be:. knowing it.' cruising the Mediterranean in his . _ J. BERNARD WEST ;an yacht "Christina." r With its El Grecos and bar stoal,a,; Former White House chief usher covered in leather, it was a far cry from the French vermeil candela'i bruin and satin draperies of the. based on Edward M. Kennedy, whit+. White House. becomes President and then is tii8E But perhaps that was the point...,;;;.; target of an assassination attemOt. She immediately quit and latein- n 1968, Robert F. Kennedy, who" joined Doubleday, moving into;Yri was trying to follow his brothW.. novice editor's windowless office:tg3 into the White House, urged heti& During her tenure at Doubleday;-: wait to announce her engagement° Mrs. Onassis edited a wide variety- to Onassis. "For God's sake, Jack of books reflecting her urbanet le," he reportedly said, "that couttr mind and keen aesthetic and ,,a) cost me five states." She agreed, devotion to the arts, particularly: for Bobby's sake, to wait, but heft music, ballet and the visual arts. too was killed and his deathg In the end, her legacy was so changed everything. enormous it is hard to characterize. As news of her engagement td' After years of research to "get; Onassis reached the heartlancill, past the myth," celebrity biogra-T, America wept that the woman theye. pher Kitty Kelley offered one of; wanted to remember in a cloud! oke the first non-fawning sketches white chiffon and a tiara could end,- the world's favorite widow witl. up with a Greek tycoon. her 1978 best-seller, "Jackie Ohl',,_... But on Oct. 10, 1968, on the, Kelley wrote that Onassis in; island of Skorpios, Onassis and Mrs. dulged herself with handmade bed' Kennedy were married during A•i• linens and extravagant silk lingef ceremony that was conducte47 rie, including underpants costing mostly in Greek. She was 39; hundreds of dollars per pair. She was 62. was portrayed by employees and But a month later Onassis Wal even some friends as a cold, pre- photographed with his old flame tentious, plotting woman whoSe opera singer Maria Callas, and triC chief virtue was her devotion to" new Mrs. Onassis again was etit:,%-. her children. broiled with an unfaithful marl' -• Besides the books there were though this time she was at !eat; made-for-TV-movies and songs by' well-kept in privacy. groups like Human Sexual Re- Though their marriage was lowg" sponse with lyrics like "I want to over—Onassis had even hired ROY be Jackie Onassis, oh yeah, oh. Cohn to begin divorce proceetP: yeah." ings—the shipping magnaties death in 1975 made any officia41 .- But in all that is written and ail' separation a moot issue. Widowed ire that is said, the country will never. second time, she ended up with $2611 penetrate the mystery. For she; million after reaching an agree'rr managed to keep the world at h't' ment with her stepdaughter:ft as she returned in the third ptia..41 Christina, who had little affection;. of her life to the eternal veritieS22 for his father's American wife. family, books, and a quiet life a kind, slightly pudgy man. ix months later, she was backiw She remained that Mona USW 5 her 15-room New York apart,- face that you could look at end! ment, working at Viking Press asp lessly and see flashes of all her past consulting editor for $200 a weere faces—the sweet girl in riding' She worked there two years whet jodhpurs, the First Lady in a tiara, the publisher, without consultitilf the tear-smeared widow, the parn4-' her, bought a Jeffrey Archer nov4114 pered wife. And finally the wide dark eyes, edged with fine writs,,

.■1 kles, watching a world that always • was watching her. She had a will of ironl Times staff writers Robin Wright In with more determination Washington, Elizabeth Mehren In Bolt- anyone I have ever.; ton, Stanley Meister In New York and. Pamela Warrick in Los Angeles cow met. Yet she was so tributed to this report. JACQUELINE KENNEDY ONASSIS: 1929-1994

Associated Press President John F. Kennedy with First Lady In Dallas, hours before the President was assassinated. Al 8 , FRIDAY, MAY 20, 1994 *

(J ackie was part of our ; family and part of our 1. hearts for 40 wonderful and Voices and I unforgettable years, and she will never really leave us. I Reactions Our love and prayers are 1 0 [ with John, and with Caroline ., I . I just wanted to be here. ven in the face of and Ed and their three I . _Edimpossible tragedy, she children.' It's not curiosity. It's ,:almost like paying respects.' carried the grief of her —Sen. Edward M. Kennedy, 1 family and our entire nation through a spokeswoman —Lillian Feldel of Aventura, .with a calm power that Ina., who stopped and asked somehow reassured all of us 0 about Mrs. Onassis who mourned. We hope that Mrs. Onassis' children, John ackie Onassis brought 0 and Caroline, and her great dignity and grace to grandchildren find solace in the White House and was, :4 B ad luck seemed to trail the extraordinary indeed, a charming and 4 her, but you have to contributions she made to wonderful First Lady. 11dmire her strength. I just our country.' [Barbara and I) join her many *.wanted to be here. I will friends and admirers around aremember her as a strong —excerpt from President the world in mourning her lwoman, elegant and Clinton's comments loss.' rofound.' 1-1 0 —former President George w --Marina Faini, a Chilean Bush immigrant outside the former n times of hope, she First Lady's apartment I captured our hearts. In 0 tragedy, her courage helped salve a nation's grief. She I ,4 I think we all just wish her :(01 do not think it entirely was an image of beauty and a great deal of love. 1 inappropriate for me to )0omance and leaves an There's a lot of love in her ,introduce myself. I am the empty place in the world as I room and in her apartment.' man who accompanied have known it.' —Rep. Joseph Kennedy after Jacqueline Kennedy to • Paris—and I have enjoyed it.' —former First Lady Lady Bird visiting his aunt Johnson —President John F. Kennedy 0 on a trip to France In 1961 0 he disease progressed ew women throughout 1 to a point where there F history have touched was no more they could do. r the hearts and shaped the They reached a point dreams of Americans more :whereby she could either profoundly than Jacqueline ; ,remain in the hospital or go home. She chose to go home.' Kennedy Onassis. Nancy and s 0 I have always admired this 1 —Nancy Tuckerman, Mrs. remarkable woman, not only I 'Onassis' spokeswoman for her grace and dignity, but also for her tremendous . 0 [ courage.' er 'grace and courage —former President Ronald , enriched our national Reagan H'life and our culture. It was a 0 'privilege to see her in action. Our sympathy goes out to the [ entire family.' —Sen. Paul Simon Mrs. Onassis: To Define Her Is to Appreciate Her Sense of Style

By MARY ROURKE TIMES STAFF WRITER tart at the beginning. Jacque- Sline Bouvier's wedding day in September, 1953. The white lace veil, a long mantilla, belonged to her grandmother. The single strand of luminous pearls was per- fect for a 24-year-old debutante of the year. But the dress was a zinger: yards of ivory silk faille made subtly daring by an off-the- shoulder neckline. This was her first day as Mrs. Jacqueline Kennedy and every- thing about her said that she could lead a nation with her sense of style. The next image of her in a veil came on a dreadful day in Novem- ber, 1963. This time it was black, banded in satin. It covered her shoulders, touched her narrow black suit, gave her the privacy a widow deserves. Yet the nation's women marveled at the drama of it—and the glamour. Years later, in quick succession, and wore similar versions to bury their hus- bands. In exquisite as well as excruciat- Associated Press ing times, Jacqueline Kennedy Mrs. Jacqueline Kennedy attending Democratic Party dinner in New Onassis never let her country down. Clothes do not make the York in 1962, marking first anniversary of her husband's inauguration. woman—certainly not in this case. But an innate sense of style can have the unexpected power to make an event unforgettable. Mrs. Onassis did that countless times, without ever seeming to try. The snapshot images of the for- mer First Lady through the years click along to create a history of chic. There was a white column dress and opera-length gloves for the inaugural ball in 1960. Her pillbox hat was a trademark, from her first days in the White House until, literally, her last. Her bouf- fant pageboy was made immortal by Andy Warhol in "Red Jackie," a larger-than-life silkscreen. "Her hair started a trend in the '60s," recalled Eleanor Lambert, a New York publicist who issues a "best dressed" list each year. Mrs. Onassis made the list in '60, '61 and '62. In those years Oleg Cassini was declared the olicial White House solids. scene." In the '70s, Mrs. Onassis was a All the while, tortoise-shell sun- jet-setting mother with two kids in glasses—vast orbs of darkness— boarding school and a house in spoke of a wish for privacy, yet Martha's Vineyard, Mass. She called attention to her. trekked to the Acropolis in a Pucci Mrs. Onassis' wardrobe settled summer shift, trotted horses in her down in the '80s. She had turned jodhpurs and boots, cruised Greek 50, gone to work as an editor and islands on husband Aristotle Onas- had seen her children, John and sis' yacht in Lili Pulitzer dresses. Caroline, graduate from college. She could still create a stir. One Then Caroline married. Jackie's evening she dressed in palazzo look softened and solidified: long, pants and a long tunic for dinner at bouffant pageboy by Kenneth, Le Pavillon, a top New York res- suits and cocktail dresses by Caro- taurant. It turned out the dress lina Herrera of New York. code barred women from wearing Ask what Mrs. Onassis taught pants. "She simply excused herself, women about style and hear Diana went into the ladies room and took Vreeland's voice bellowing in the the pants off," Lambert recalls. background: "elegance is refusal." "She came back wearing just the Mrs. Onassis edited Vreeland's long tunic. She could handle that book on the subject, "Allure." Ob- sort of thing without making a viously, she could have written it. fashion designer. His earlier claim to fame was designing movie cos- tumes for Grace Kelly. The connection was clear and accurate—the two women the world considered "American roy- alty" wrapped in the same fashion label. His suits, with their short, boxy jackets and narrow skirts, were the First Lady's signature look in the '60s. "As Mrs. Kennedy, her greatest influence was in daywear and sportswear," said Richard Martin, costume curator of New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. "Af- ter Eleanor Roosevelt, Bess Tru- man and Mamie Eisenhower as first ladies, Jackie brought a young, elegant style to the White House. You never had the sense she was uncomfortable in her clothes." After her White House years, the remarried Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis went a little wild, letting loose her Francophile passions. She had studied the language as a school girl and the early attraction was revived in a stream of Hubert de Givenchy gowns and Chanel suits. Does Italy's Valentino count as French, for his Paris address? She seemed to think so. The American twist to her ward- robe was her loyalty to HaIston, who created the pillbox hats she wore as First Lady. She could walk to his shop from her 5th Avenue Associated Press apartment in New York. His design Mrs. Kennedy, with children, John Jr. and Caroline, before boarding assistant, Akira, once commented on how she never wore prints, only flight to England in 1965 for dedication of memorial to her husband.