CORNWALL 218 Atmospheric of All, During the Roaring Surf Andbitter Windsofcornwall’Sferalatmospheric Ofall,Duringtheroaringsurf Winter

CORNWALL 218 atmospheric of all, during the roaring surf andbitter windsofCornwall’sferalatmospheric ofall,duringtheroaringsurf winter. that lastpatchofunclaimedsand.Better tovisitduringthequieter shouldermonths,ormost favourite halfofBritainisjostlingfor getaways,andonsunnysummer daysitcanseemlike With somuchscenicsplendour,it’shardlysurprisingthatCornwallis also oneofthenation’s postcard views. bars,andeverypubs andsurfers’ twistandturninthecoastoffers afresh panoramaof withdesignerrestaurants, greenhousesgroundbreaking hugger-mugger sitside-by-side you canfeed yourbrain,appetite andyoursoulallatonce:world-class museumsand has recently garnered areputation asoneofBritain’smostcreative corners,aplacewhere cutribbonsacrossanopensky.Farand kittiwakes frombeingaculturalboondocks,Cornwall the craggyheadlands;tinyfishingvillageshuddleinleeofgranite bluffs; cacklinggulls inspiration andnaturalmajestyinequalmeasures: heather,gorseandwildflowersblanket doubt thatthere’s somethingdifferent intheairthisfarwest.It’saplacethatmixes artistic This slendersliver oflandwasonethe lastgreat bastionsofCeltic culture, andthere’s no fromtherest ofEngland–anothercountry, notjustanotherEnglishcounty. nation apart asitsusuallyknownaroundtheseshores)Cornwall (orKernow, hasalwaysseenitselfasa Jutting outintothechurningseaandcutofffromsouthDevonbybroadRiver Tamar, l l a w n r o C © LonelyPlanetPublications To where theslate fallssheerintothetide. Pale driftsofprimrosescascadingwide And gorseturnstawnyorange,seenbeside

HIGHLIGHTS POPULATION: 501,267 Savourapintatcreekside pubonthe Topthesummit of Playlordof themanoraroundgreat estates of Explore the spookymonumentsandstandingstonesof atthearchitectural audacity ofthe Marvel Watchagig raceorstrolltheAbbeyGardenson River Helford Lanhydrock West Penwith Cornwall’s highestpoint ( p275 ( p252 ( p241 )and Brown Willy ) ) Cotehele ANNUAL HOURSOFSUNSHINE ISLESOFSCILLY: 1500 ( p275 ( p277 ), ) Eden Project Isles of Scilly Isles ofScilly ( p268 Penwith West Sir John Betjeman, CornishCliffs ) PASTIES PRODUCEDPER WEEK: 3million WEEK: ( p253 Eden Project Helford ) Brown Willy Lanhydrock Cotehele westerly point at Land’s End.Theprincipal westerly pointatLand’s east allthewaytomainlandEngland’smost and thegranite humpof Dartmoorinthe lonelyplanet.com Cornwall’s southern edge. See Cornwall’s southernedge. See p291 mouth acrosstheTamar Bridge andalong major road(theA38)runseastfromPly- London Paddington andPenzance; asecond parallel withthemain-linerailwaybetween the middleof thecounty,runningroughly beaches. ThemainA30roadcutsthrough landscape of fields,river estuariesandquiet coast, whilethesouthcoastisagentler lofty andsurfingbeaches of cliffs thenorth middle of thecounty;to northare the administrative town,Truro,sitsbanginthe Cornwall stretches fromtheRiver Tamar Orientation &Information Land's End Scilly (38mi) To Islesof CORNWALL 51ºN Theatre Minack Newbridge Morvah Treen 10km 0 Tresco A30 Penzance 50ºN Zennor Porthcurno Town Hugh Buryan St Mên-an- St Ives Tol Newlyn Isles ofScilly St Mary’s Mousehole St Martin’s To Penzance THE NORTH COAST THENORTH Mount's Bay Gunwalloe Marazion

St Michael’s (38mi) & Godrevy Gwithian Towans Cove Mount Loe Pool Hayle Gunwalloe Portreath Kynance Cove Porthtowan Mullion Chapel Porth The Lizard Helston Porthleven ATLANTIC Camborne Lizard Point OCEAN St Agnes Agnes A3083 Head Treyarnon Bay Watergate Bay Constantine Bay St A394 National Seal Sanctuary Goonhilly Redruth Cadgwith Bedruthan Steps Station Penryn Perranporth Earth Harlyn Bay Newquay Falmouth formore Pandora Housel A3075 Cove Daymer Bay Helford St Keverne Roskilly’s Farm Coverack Inn Trebah &GlendurganGardens Kennack Falmouth Bay Sands Trerice Polzeath Trelissick Carrick Truro Garden The Helford Roads St Mawes Trebarwith Strand Padstow Roseland Peninsula 5ºW A39 Wadebridge Veryan Tregony .co.uk) Onlineguidetothecounty’s finest sand. north Cornwallcoast.Battered byAtlantic surf you’re after, thenmake forthe abeeline baysandwhite-horselofty sweeping cliffs, If it’stheclassicCornish combinationof Cornwall Online Cornwall BeachGuide Cornwall 24 and p295 onwaystogetdetail toandfromthecounty heated) Cornwall discussion forum. walks, attractions, villages walks, attractions, and activities. community-based sitewithguidestoaccommodation, TE OT COAST NORTH THE Rock A30 Quin Lanhydrock House A390 Port Mevagissey Portloe St Austell Tintagel Port Isaac Caerhays Castle Charlestown Heligan Camelford A39 Boscastle Project Crackington Eden Widemouth for countywide travel. Fowey (www.cornwall24.co.uk) Lively(andusually St Austell Bodmin Haven Bay Par Bay CORNWALL Bolventor Rough Lostwithiel Bude Polruan Bay Tor Restormel Castle (www.cornwall-online.co.uk) A Bodinnick Davidstow Hartland Brown Bude Lantivet Willy Abbey Bay 20kms 10miles 0 0 (www.cornwallbeachguide A395 Liskeard Bodmin Jamaica Polperro Moor Inn Stratton Talland A39 Bay Launceston Kilkhampton Clovelly Looe A390 Callington A38 Whitesand Holsworthy Westward Ho! Cotehele Bay A388 Great Torrington Torpoint Henfort Bideford Saltash A30 Plymouth

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Lopwell 219 CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL north is with bags of spaceat lowtide,andjust tothe Summerleaze nearbybeaches. totownis fantastic Closest ily getaway andsurfinghangoutthanksto its asapopularfam- itself Bude hasestablished (currently undergoing a£3.8million face-lift), of theRiver anda19th-century canal Neet the Cornishborderis Bude. Nestledattheend lantic Hwy(akatheA39),first town across Travelling titledAt- westalongthegrandiosely % BUDE chefs and celebrity second-homers. beach babesandwannabesurfers togourmet fromhas becomeamagnetforeveryone a well-kept days;thenorthcoast secret these vourite corner of Cornwall,butit’sfarfrom fa- Unsurprisingly, thiswasJohn Betjeman’s Ives isarguably thecounty’smostdramatic. the stretch of shoreline BudeandSt between breakers andwhippedbyyear-round winds, 220 www.skinnersbrewery.com; Truro) www.skinnersbrewery.com; Cornish CyderFarm winning rangeofreds andwhites, aswellasparkling wine that’schampagneinallbutname. The on a working farminPenhallow.on aworking Cornish include ale-brewers experience andnottobemissed. both supplypubsacrossthecounty.DowningapintofStormorTribute isanessentialCornish Cornwall alsospecialisesinitsownlocalbrews. The Wine &Beer Newlyn, If it’sseafoodthatfloatsyourboat,thebestplaceforfresh fishisstraightfromthedocks. In Seafood The bestcountywidesuppliersoftraditionallymadepastiesare The Cornish Classic .co.uk andwww.foodtrails.co.uk, orswingbytheannual Here’s alistofourfavourite places;formore suggestions checkoutwww.foodfromcornwall Stein alltheplaudits,Cornwall’srealRick andchumstake starsare itssmalllocalproducers. everywhere youlook andgourmetshopsspringing upacrossthecounty.ButwhileJamie Oliver, Cornwall’s cuisinehasundergone arenaissance inrecent years,withcelebritychefs settingup CULINARY KERNOW Elsewhere inCornwall ( p251 .com) .cornwallfoodanddrinkfestival.co.uk) Fish have bothreceived thesealofapproval fromMrStein. Works 01288 /pop9242 H OT OS • Bd COAST ••Bude THE NORTH

and ( % )ontheLizardand Crooklets

( % WH Harvey &Sons 01726-832422; www.foweyfish.com) , a classic bucket-and-spade affair affair bucket-and-spade classic a , Pengenna Pasties 01736-332112; www.pilchardworks.co.uk) , astretch of thatoften sand

( % Wing ofStMawes Chough Bakery 01872-573356; [email protected]) 01872-573356; [email protected]) andthe

( % heldevery November inTruro. (www.pengennapasties.co.uk) 01736-362983) St Austell Brewery are well-knownlocalfishmongers.

( % ( % specialisesincrabandlobster, whilethe is the king of the ‘Cornish sardine’, aka thepilchard ofthe‘Cornishsardine’,aka istheking 01841-533361; www.thechoughbakery.co.uk) 01726-861666; www.wingofstmawes.co.uk) This small faux-fortress wasbuilt in1830bythe near therather extravagantly named Sun insummer) .info; TheCrescent; heritage. seafaring itsexhibitsonBude’s industrialand to see h the town pasty shops,butit’sworthstrolling downto than asmattering of surfstores, cafésand of Cornwall’sbest-known naturist beaches. tobreakneed outyourbirthdaysuit–it’sone little furthersouthis Bude’s mosteye-catching stretch of A sand. beach of the cliff-backed when theweather’sfine,while5milesbeyond family favourite that’susuallyjam-packed Camel Valley Vineyard mouth Bay miles north.Three milessouthof town, waves trythelittlecove at has decentsurf,butgets crowded.Forquieter The There’s other notthatmuch toBudeitself, noon-5pm Mon-SatApr-Oct) , whileAnnMuller’s

Cornwall FoodandDrink Festival ( % Bude visitorcentre 01726-66022; www.staustellbrewery.co.uk); Skinner’s BrewerySkinner’s (pronounced widmouth) is another another is widmouth) (pronounced museum isinacarparkat the endof town, Rowe theBakers h produces traditionalscrumpy 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, plus 10am-4pm 10am-5pm Mon-Sat,plus 10am-4pm ( % The Strangles The ( p275 353576; adult/child£1/free; LizardPasty Shop

( , by the old sea lock, , bytheoldsea %

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01872-245689; and (www.wcrowe inPadstow , where you’ll you’ll where , Pilchard , acoupleof Fowey Bude Castle

(www Wide- .

is is . vourite BudeB&B,withninefresh, un- houseinbude.co.uk; DownsView;s/d£40/60) Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com The plain, peach andpistachio flavoured few tracesof itsGeorgian heritage remain. butdepressinglycentury lodging house, began lifeposite asan18th- BudeCanal £60; contemporary. and tinged bathroomfixtures. Cheap,sweet printsandgroovy sea chrome- TV, Freeview chocolate pine,plus throwsandpleasant cluttered roomsdecked out inwhite linen, Dylan’s Guesthouse Eating & Sleeping mons andTrafalgarSquare in London. offound fameilluminatingtheHouse Com- asuper-brightLight’, oil-lamp,which later ‘Bude a musicalglasspianoandthepioneering powered carriage, anoxy-hydrogen blowtorch, contraptionsincludedasteam- Gurney, whose crackpot Cornish inventor SirGoldsworthy Falcon Hotel near Truro) Indulgences 10.30am-4.30pm Sun) 5.30pm summer) Farm shops coffee producer, Wadebridge, still uses traditional copper pans to make itsCornishfudge.Wadebridge, stillusestraditionalcopperpanstomake Penzance. Shop several deliciousgoat’scheeses;contact to develop itsdistinctive greeny localcheesesincludeCornishBlue,Brieand rind.Other Cornwall’s mostfamous cheese isyarg, astrong,semihardcheese,traditionallywrapped innettles Cheese and sauces,whilethe On thegourmetside, Lobbs Trevathan Farm Cornish Organics Gear Farm Trevelyan Farm from private orchards,homemadejamsandcakes. Amongthebest: Not justforveg butalsoorganic andtraditionallyreared meatandeggs,organic cheeses,fruit co.uk) chocolates, while and sorbet.The p There isatea plantationintheregion – ) nearTruro,whichsellsfourbrandsincludingafternoon, green andEarlGrey –aswella Thiswhite turret-topped hotel op-

( ( % % , the 01872-270742; 29Ferris Town,Truro). ( 01726-844411; www.lobbsfarmshop.com; St Ewe, near Heligan Gardens; 01726-844411; www.lobbsfarmshop.com;StEwe,nearHeliganGardens; %

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8am-6pm Mon-Sat,9-5pmSun)It’slocatednear along the coastviaWidemouth, Crackington Saturday, fouronSunday) travels fromBude Bus 595(three hours, sixdailyMondayto Getting There& Away lamb. slow-cooked whole bream, wok-fried tiger prawnsand altogether slinkier–asnazzybistro serving something the Summerleazecrowd;bynight coffeesing outciabattas, andicecreams for beacha chaotic caféchurn- California-style lunch £4-6,dinnermains£15-17; the brekkie with isstuffed local produce. and-span roomswon’tbreak thebankand façade. Few butthesimplespic- surprises, gling behind awhitewashed, garden-wrapped traditional optionwithcheery roomssnug- -hotel.co.uk; DownsView;s/d£49/98; canal. the and four-poster, andsomehave viewsover rooms are withtheoddfrill comfyenough, )inMullionproducesdelightfulhandmade Life’s aBeach Hotel Camelot

( % 01872-870789; www.lynherdairies.co.uk;

( % specialisesinherbs,marinades

01872-520000; www.tregothnan. ( ( % % h 0800-7812536; www.camelot 355222; SummerleazeBeach; 9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, h h orthe Mon-Sat) pi 9.30am- Cheese ) Byday , near A more

221 CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL new locationbeside the harbour. its oldhomeinthemainvisitorcar parktoa 50 people. Miraculouslynoonediedinthe wooden witch mirrors, enchanted skulls, and spooky poppets (akind of voodoo doll), largest, apparently). Among itsartefacts are tion of witch-related memorabilia (theworld’s Mon-Sat, 11.30am-6pm Sun) ( .com; come inaworldof global warming. simply afreak orasignof event things to but noone’ssure whetherthefloodswere upriverinstalled toprevent future flooding, huge flood-preventionself; schemes have been Boscastle’s stillnotquite backtoitsformer aged buildingshave restored been orrebuilt, manyofBoscastle flood.Though thedam- of Lynton( p120 of village theExmoor thefloodthatlevelled village by naval helicopter. and forcingtheemergency of evacuation the carrying trees, cars andbuildingsinitswake, gallons of water thevillage, tearing through atidalwavehours, sending of 440million A month’srainfallfell injustafew short inmorefloods tohitBritain than50years. bytheworstthe village flash wasdevastated in dramaticfashionAugust2004,when Boscastle’s chocolate-box backfired setting along Cornwall’swildnorthshore. But oftle, burrowedatthebase coombe asteep fortheancientharbourofsetting Boscas- You couldn’taskforamore picturesque % day) continuestoTintagel and Camelford. (11 dailyMondaytoSaturday,fouronSun- Haven andBoscastle. FromBoscastle the594 222 BOSCASTLE % Nearby isthequirky The reminiscentThe episodewasstartlingly £97-120; o ORGANIC FANTASTIC all B&Bsbethisgood? anddry-cured focaccia,malthouse loaves, bacon.Whycan’t kippers smoked into home-baked lounge.Suite, withitsstripped-woodfloor,freestanding Forbreakfast bathandloft-style tuck TV and MenhirRoomsinthemainhouseare lovely, butforreal luxuryaskforthesplit-level Stables else issourcedfromnearbyfarms. The stunningroomsare spread over several lodges;theLundy andcourgettes,much oftheirownproduce,fromeggsandonionstochickens andeverything 01840 250111; TheHarbour;admission£2.50; h H OT OS • Bsate COAST ••Boscastle THE NORTH visitor centre 10am-5pm Mar-Oct) p Bangors Organic ) Youcanforget aboutfoodmilesatthisfantasticall-organic B&B. The ownersgrow )in1952,killingmore than (

% anditseclecticcollec- 250010; boscastlevc@btconnect has been moved hasbeen from Museum ofWitchcraft Museum

( % 01288-361297; www.bangorsorganic.co.uk; Poundstock,Bude;r£84-105,ste h 10.30am-6pm

Juliot’s parson, andtheplacewhere Thomas formerlythehomeofdouble-gabled house, St hanging trees linethedrive of thissumptuous 84; Old Rectory Eating & Sleeping at thetouristoffice formaps and guides. trails snake aroundtheBoscastlescenery –ask love nest(see below attheirformer andyoucannowstay Gifford, rying therector’s sister-in-law, EmmaLavinia tracted torestore in1870;heendedupmar- the youngarchitect Thomas Hardy wascon- the River Valency tothe for thefaint-hearted (or the pointy-hatted). extract confessions fromsuspected hags.Not a hideouscast-iron‘witch’s bridle’designedto floors and ghosted-glass sinks. and thebesthave huge king-sizebeds,seagrass Alltheroomsarethe sights. Boscastle-themed, the touristfizzof themaindragbutstillnear makes anidealBoscastlebolthole,awayfrom .co.uk; d£80-95; views. unbeatable chunky rugs,gentlemen’s armchairs and bag aturret roomforanantiqueatmosphere, business asthetoptraditionalhotel intown– of Edward VII,ThomasHardy andGuyGibson more than 500years (previous guestsinclude old Wellyhaswelcomedwearytravellers for fortified castlethanacoaching inn,thegrand lington.com; TheHarbour;d£76-140; with private entrance. or youcouldplumpforawood-burner stable ana pepperthethree Hardy-themed rooms, patterned drapesandeclecticbitsof Victori- Hardy hiswife-to-be. wooed Heavy furniture, Wellington Hotel A 3-milewooded walk leadsinlandalong Other options: Hotel Bottreaux Dambusters h Mar-Nov; Mar-Nov; (

% Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com p p 250225; www.stjuliot.com; fame).Post-flood, it’sbackin )

This elegant little guesthouse This elegantlittleguesthouse ) Floweringshrubs and over- ( %

( % ). Several otherwalking ).Several 250231; www.boscastlecornwall 250202; www.boscastle-wel ChurchofStJuliot p Closer toa Closer )

St Juliot;d£76- , which reliable B&B in the heart of reliable B&Bintheheart the village. s/d £35/65)Oldbuildingmeetsfresh, modernroomsatthis St Christopher’s Hotel Riverside Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Part on of stands thecrumbling stronghold bornatthecastleaslocallegendbeen claims. speculation thatthelegendary kingmayhave foundations of amuch earlierfortress, fuelling century, archaeological digshave revealed the present-day ruinsmostlydate fromthe13th 10am-4pmNov-Mar) 10am-5pmOct, Apr-Sep, tle lage of Tintagel clifftop anditsspectacular The spectre of King Arthurloomsover thevil- % TINTAGEL p221 BudeandBoscastle;see runbetween Buses Getting There&Away owners willpackyoulunchif ask sweetly. of lemonandroseinsideaformermerchant’shouse;the St;d£56-70)Flouncyroomsintints -boscastle.co.uk; High

King Arthur connections, includingTintagel connections, Arthur King ( above wounded byhisillegitimatemortally son/nephew,Mordred. ButCornwallhasbyfarthemost be themystical homeofthe LadyoftheLake. of Arthur’s lastbattleatCamlann, whileDozmary Pool ( of Arthur’s p276 Abbey ( p107 later retellings including Tennyson’s the story,andMallory’sepicpoem sewn; later writers includingChrétiende TroyesandThomas Mallorysubstantiallyembellished legendhadbeen ofagoodyarn(naughty chap).However it upforthesake theseedofArthur’s large dollopofCeltic andit’spossiblehejustmademuchof mythtoembellishhishistoricalfacts, well ashisgenealogy,childhoodandascensiontothethrone. useda ButGeoffrey almostcertainly anddeath(cAD500–42),as biography,includinghisbirth first tolaydownthebasicsofArthur’s as BedeandGildas. isnoticeablyabsentintheworksofotherchroniclersperiodsuch 800, althoughArthur bynameinhis is thefirsttomentionArthur counter-attack againstinvadingCelts sometimeinthe6thcentury;aWelshmonkcalledNennius even reallyif Arthur existed. archaeological digsandhundreds ofdubiousmovies, it’sstillamatter ofcomplete conjecture butdespitefrom epicnarrative endlesshoursofresearch, poemstoaDisneycartoon, countless Merlin, Guinevere, andhisKnightsoftheRoundTable LancelotandArthur hasinspired everything heroicknightandfabledprotectormythic warrior-king, oftheBritishIsles. The fantastictaleof boundupwiththelegendof For manypeoplethesouthwestisinextricably THE ONCEANDFUTUREKING Tor ( p106 and Merlin’sCave. isSlaughterbridge ( Tothenorth p275 (EH; 01840 /pop1822 for details. Many areas in the southwest have staked their claim on an Arthurian connection. GlastonburyMany areas connection. inthesouthwesthave theirclaimonanArthurian staked The 12th-century historianGeoffrey ofMonmouth–anotoriouslyunreliable scholar–wasthe So here are wholedafierce thefacts. There orArthurus wasasoldierbythenameofArthur % 770328; adult/child£4.50/2.30; )isrumoured tobethelegendary IsleofAvalon, wascarriedafter where being Arthur ( ( ) is the supposed burial place of Arthur andQueenGuinevere, )isthesupposedburialplaceofArthur whileGlastonbury % % 250216; www.hotelriverside.co.uk; 250412; www.st-christophers . Though the . Though THE NORTH COAST ••Tintagel THENORTH h Le d’Arthur, Morte Idylls oftheKing 10am-6pm cas- Historia Brittonum h by theretired millionaire Frederick Glasscock Halls Great Arthur’s King lessauthenticare the 19thcentury.Rather during asapostoffice itwasused longhouse, example of atraditional16th-centuryCornish (NT; on themainstreet. Therickety souvenir strungout sellers shopsandcrystal ing, withamotleycollectionof tearooms, tacky headland, thevillage ispretty itself disappoint- Norman hide-out, whileashort walkinlandisthetiny tohavemoured Merlin’s been (inevitably) layout. interior make sturdywallsandthecastle’s outseveral sufferers beware) andit’sstillpossibleto 11am-4pm Sun-Fri Oct) 11am-4pm Sun-Fri Mar-Jun 5.30pm dailyJul&Aug, &Sep, 11am-5.30pmSun-Fri wind-blown spotabove Glebe Cliff. ), supposedly the site of Arthur’s stronghold ),supposedlythesite ofArthur’s cessed viaabridgecessed andsteepsteps (vertigo a rocktowercutoff fromthemainland,ac- publishedinthelate 15thcentury,inspired andTHWhite’s After thenatural splendourof theTintagel thecastleisanatural Below 10am-5pm) % ), near Camelford, asserted tobethesite ),nearCamelford, asserted 770024; Fore St;adult/child£2.70/1.35; )andLoePool( p249 Church of , aweirdArthurianhomage built , ahistoricaltext written around isworthalook.Abeautiful The Once &Future King

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CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL with; d£90-110; alleyways, cottages andslender With itsheavy-duty harbour andatmospheric % ISAAC PORT toandfromTintagel, For buses see p221 Getting There&Away inside. salon frillysunny frontgardenorthesuitably up Tintagel’s top cream teas, eitherinthe £4.75-6.25) creams, crisp linenand dark wood. plus nineelegantroomsfinished incalming and high-gradefood(mains£13.95to£16.25), heavy woodenbeams,solidDelabole slate anatmosphericbar-restaurantter: boasting verted milliscrammedwithCornishcharac- Tintagelbetween thiscon- andPortIsaac, Daft, dated fun. Arthurian lounge complete withroundtable. viewsaresea striking,andthere’s agrand even ture theantediluvian rooms,butthe colonise and70sfurni- ancient carpets,battered TVs Trevail. Thedécorhashardlychanged since– ian touristsbytheCornisharchitect Sylvanus the castle,andwasbuiltin1899forVictor- inagloriouslocationoppositehotel stands .com; AtlanticRd;r£78-200; rooms feel a bit boxy. iron bedsandmini-fridges, theattic although andcheery, liveneddécor isbright upbycast- isyourbestbetinTintagelhouse village. The .co.uk; AtlanticRd;d£50-60) with alaundry,smallshop and Atlantic views. camp site ontheopposite headlandtothecastle, AtlanticRd;sites£15-17) [email protected]; &Camping Headland Caravan guides to the area. on theArthurstory,aswellgoodwalking 10.30am-4pmNov-Feb)Oct, BossineyRd; [email protected]; can’t buy you taste. to prove theoldadage thatmoneydefinitely tolife,to bringArthur’stale butitjustgoes windowsgamelyattemptand 72stained-glass in the1930s.Fake stonethrones,roundtables 224 Sepn & Eating & Sleeping Camelot Castle Hotel Hotel Castle Camelot Bosayne GuestHouse The well-stocked Lewis’s Tea Rooms House Mill 01208 H OT OS • Pr sa Isaac COAST ••Port THE NORTH Thisivy-covered serves house ( i % ) 770200; themillhouseinn.co.uk; Trebar- Inapeacefulvalleyhalfway

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( % Spacious Spacious (lanes), 779084; . Llewellyn-Bowen (who owns a house inPort Llewellyn-Bowen (whoownsahouse are named after school subjects andare ec- schoolhouse. The14rooms ally PortIsaac’s quirky, utterly smallhotel, delightful origin- helpedoutwiththeredesignIsaac) of this oldschoolhotel.co.uk; Fore St;dfrom£60; budget. a uphill B&Bworthconsideringifyou’re on a warmandwelcomingownermake this d from£56) Anchorage Eating & Sleeping in. brought whatthetide’s ging intherockpoolstosee the NationalTrust,andagreat spotfordig- Quin Port Just southof istherockycove PortIsaac of plus theneighbouring harbourof Alley), backstreets Belly (lookoutforSqueezy restaurants, of aswellatangle atmospheric corner; there’s aclutch of top-notch pubsand lovely forexploringCornwall’snorthwest base the village asaready-made backdrop.It’sa of series and theTV andtheBritishfilm Port Isaac, celebshaveumpteen theirholidayhomesin lost onsecond-homers andfilmdirectors – tractive isn’t ports.Itsaestheticappealcertainly isoneofPort Isaac northCornwall’smostat- in therooms, somewith views,somenot. armchairs andlustrous woodfurniture chilled-colour throws, black-leather house; with agentlemanly feel inthis Trelights town .co.uk; Trelights; d£100-150; keep itacutabove itscompetitors. gourmet teas andawell-stocked honestybar furnished roomsandavaguelyVictorian air; race; d£75-99; and cosyold-school rooms. crowd, pluscholesterol-packed pubstaples bar, slate flagstones) andanever-faithful local shipshape trappings(logfires, low-beamed p Meals are available (mainsfrom£14). dows overlooking theharbour. Onetosavour. layoutsandarched win- higgledy-piggledy trusses, stonewalls,curved-oak boast exposed pin stripes,andboldprimarycolours, others Some are festooned withscatter cushions, centrically furnishedinmix-and-match style. Long CrossHotel Bay Hotel Inn Gaverne Port o ) A classic, old coastal innwithallthe Aclassic,oldcoastal , anoldfishing cove nowownedby Soothingviews,simpleroomsand ( Old SchoolHotel % p

Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com ( % 880629; www.anchorageportisaac.co.uk; 880629; www.anchorageportisaac.co.uk; Anupmarket B&Bwithsmartly ) 880380; [email protected]; TheTer-880380; [email protected];

( ( % % Doc Martin 880243; www.longcrosshotel pi 880244; Port Gaverne; d£60; Gaverne; 880244; Port

( % ) Gorgeous digs 880721; www.the p Saving GraceSaving Port Gaverne Port both used bothused ) Laurence Laurence

. old boozerjustastone’sthrowfromtheslip- ing great converted stable. shower, whilefamiliescanplumpforastonk- its open-plansittingroomandfree-standing ‘Lovethe bottom-of-the-garden Shack’, with Honeymooners shouldbookthegardenat lonelyplanet.com Eden Project. trails, aswelltickets forboattripsand the ofusual selection leaflets,mapsandwalking Quay; .com; North definitely theplace. of contemporary Cornishcuisinethenthisis andifyou’re setting, lookingforataste seaside face, it’shardnottobecharmed byPadstow’s It’s acuriousmix,butdespite itschichi sur- pasty shopsandcafésaroundtheoldharbour. side-by-side withthehuddleof homelypubs, posh boutiquesandupmarket eateries sitting withaprofusionKnightsbridge-by-the-sea, of reinventedhas been asakindof pocket-sized industry, butover thelastdecadeplace principally acentre forthenorth-coastfishing fore Stein pitched upinPadstow thetownwas andlocalfoodchampionstar Rick Stein. Be- gastronomic giantthankstocelebritychef, TV Padstow, aworkadayfishing harbourturned The epicentre of Cornwall’sculinarysceneis % of thevillage andtake astrolldownthehill. best betistoparkinthemaincarattop Gaverne. andPort stopping atPortQuin,Isaac Wadebridgescuttles between andCamelford, The 584bus(hourlyMondaytoSaturday) Getting There&Away on tap. andStAustell tables ales way, withseaside PDTW AROUND & PADSTOW The Space is tight for cars in Port Isaac, so your forcars soyour Space istight inPortIsaac, Golden Lion Tipi Holidays Tired campsites? Then we’ve ofboringoldB&Bsandsardine-can gotjusttheanswer. NATIVE GOING Mears would beproud. making. Ray andyurt laid eggs)andoffers including longbowmaking coursesinbushcraftskills woodland spoton Bodmin Moor;it’sallfittinglyecofriendly (compostingtoilet,charcoal,hen- filledwith poshrugs,puffycushionsandwood-burning stovesash-framed Mongolian yurts in a drive from Port Isaac.drive fromPort fers traditionallymadetepees inanidyllicquarryfilledwith foxgloves andbirdsong,10minutes’ 01841 /pop3162 tourist office tourist

( % h

THE NORTH COAST ••Padstow THENORTH &Around ( % 880386; Fore St) 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) (

% 01208 880781;www.cornish-tipi-holidays.co.uk; Pendoggett, perweek£495-555) StKew; 533449; padstowtic@btconnect Yurtworks Another salty Anothersalty

( % offers the the offers 850670; www.yurtworks.co.uk; StBreward; perweek£275-345), 850670; www.yurtworks.co.uk; thanks toitsfloridslate headstone. can stillvisittheoldboy’sgrave, unmissable andyou EstuaryandDaymer Bay, the Camel views across withsweeping worth theeffort, north of Rock.Thewalkuptothechurch is in thetranquilhilltopchapel of StEnodoc,just wasburied After his deathin1984,Betjeman quoted) lines: in coastline inmanyof –notably hispoems and grown-up,recalled thisstretch of summer holidaysinthearea, bothasnipper John fame waspoet hespentmany Betjeman; the moneybagsrolledin,area’s claimto celebritiesandrich retirees.heeled Before venuesecond-home of choice forwell- ultra exclusive enclave of Across theestuaryfromPadstow isthe CHURCH ENODOC ST creaky corridors. thehouse’s tostalk for oneof said theghosts less thrilled,butcanalwayskeep aneyeout ceilings.Youngsters willbeornately carved anda feast of rooms,grandstaircases state architecture heaven, willbeinseventh with William theConqueror. Fans of English Brune family,purportedly descendantsof Apr &mid-May–Oct) £7, groundsonly£2; Place of manorhouse dramas, thestately Much favoured bydirectors of costume PLACE PRIDEAUX Activities & Sights for thesea. Squelch of thebladder-wrack waiting the wet, Sun onourbathingdresses heavy with tea, waspsinthe Sand inthesandwiches, Trebetherick,

( % 532 411;www.prideauxplace.co.uk; admission h wasbuiltbythePrideaux- with itsclassic(andmuch- 12.30-5pm Sun-Thu Easter Sun–mid- Rock , forlongthe Cornish offers Prideaux Prideaux of-

225 CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL bikes foraround£10to£15 per day. .padstowcyclehire.com; SouthQuay; Padstow, summer and to4.30pmin winter, supple- return) 8am and7.50pm in toRockbetween trips. fishing wreck and Boy Darren Polzeath, Hawkers Cove andTregirls. The andthebeaches ofDoom Bar DaymerBay, h are 15-minute in summer. Foramore exciting pacethere abasking andeven birds,seals sea shark offshore islands,withachance of spotting offers trips(adult£6)aroundthebayand Estuary. One,the Several boat tripschug outinto the Camel TRIPS BOAT Brinhams scenic. as ismuch quieterBodmin section andjust gets crowdedinsummer;theWadebridge– butitstow, eitheronfootortwowheels, makes excursion fromPad- alovely half-day p273). ThePadstow– Wadebridge section Bridge (17miles)onBodminMoor(see (5.8 miles),Bodmin(11miles)toPoley’s Padstow Wadebridge andrunseastthrough inpopular cyclingtracks.Thetrailstarts Trail,oneofthe Camel Cornwall’smost redevelopedin thelate 1960s,it’sbeen as Padstow. therailwaylineclosed Although stretchthe coastal Bodminand between ride toCornwallfromWaterloo, especially In his autobiography TRAIL CAMEL 226 Btea fnl rmmee te train the remembered fondly Betjeman The Bikes canbehired frombothends;in unfortunate Sgt Howie you’ll need to book ahead ifyou’re planningonstayingintown. SgtHowieyou’llneedtobookahead unfortunate eerily reminiscent oftheclassicBritishhorrorflick ing, carousingandgeneralhighjinks,before the‘ossesare both‘stabled’foranotheryear. It’sall Old (orRed)Osswithhisownteam ofmusiciansanddancers,thenbyadayrevelling, sing- singers anddrummers,allsinging thetraditionalMaySong. Anhourlater he’sfollowedbythe accompanied byabaton-wielding‘teazer’ andaretinue offlower-covered musicians,dancers, in ahugehoopedsailclothdress andsnappinghorseheaddress –dancesaroundthetown, (orPeace)summer is‘a-come’.At morningtheBlueRibbon 10amthenext Oss–amangarbed before midnighton30April,whenrevellers attheGoldenLionthat announcetotheinnkeeper it fallsonaSunday),believed toderive rite. fromanancientpaganfertility The ritualbegins just Padstow isfamousforitschaotic‘ ANTICS ‘OSS Easter-Oct) H OT OS • Pdtw&Aon COAST ••PadstowTHE NORTH &Around Black Tor

( %

( Padstow CycleHire % pastthetreacherous of sandbank 532594; SouthQuay; 07800 553329) speedboat trips ferry the estuary(£2 crosses Jubilee Queen Summoned ByBells runsdailymackerel h

h (

( % % 9am-5pm) 9am-5pm)

533533; www 07811 113380; Obby ‘Ossceremony ( % 521093) and hire

The Wicker Man, framed by steep cliffs andusuallylesstour- cliffs framed bysteep parks. Furtheralongthecoastis block withpeoplefromthenearbycaravan Bay Ivey’s swimming; theattractive coves of Bays the surfing beaches of few Head mileswestaroundTrevose are Padstow isringed bystunningbeaches. A BEACHES you’ve out hadanight in Polzeath. mid-JulyandAugust–handyifmidnight and October;7.30pmto mid-July, September child return £5/3) mented byanightly fl details. full suggested has acouple, butthetourist office countryside ispacked withcampsites; we’ve estuary inWadebridge. Thesurrounding pocket, you’llfindcheaper alongthe sleeps If thepricesinPadstow are too rich for your entertained. you of surfers’ bars andramshacklepubstokeep the northcoast’sbeach crowd,withplenty cams). Polzeathisapopularhangout for its website forsurfingtipsandbeach web- .co.uk) and [email protected]) .com) School Up Surf ant placetolearnridethewaves. ing stakes, butisactuallyamore pleas- fiddletoNewquayinthesurf- second Padstow is isty than its neighbours. Sleeping On theopposite sideof theestuaryfrom , both with crystal-clear water, bothwithcrystal-clear andgreat and Ann’s Cottage rents boards,wetsuitsandfins(check , anannualMayDayfestival (or2Mayif and Animal Surf Academy Animal Surf Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com from 7pm to midnight Aprilto from7pmtomidnight Polzeath Polzeath but unlike EdwardWoodward’s butunlike

Treyarnon ( %

have outletsonthebeach, ( % 862003; www.surfsupsurfschool , hc uuly plays usually which , water taxi water 869924; www.annscottagesurf Constantine are often chock-a-

( % (

% 0870 2422856; 862815; adult/ Porthcothan and Mother Surf’s Surf’s Harlyn , sleep) likesleep) thelordof themanoratthiseye- Camel Trail.There’sCamel roomforcampers and 10 minutes’ walkfromPadstow besidethe £10-15; Dennis Cove CAMPSITES & HOSTELS lonelyplanet.com five colour-coded rooms(eglilac, pink,green) at home thisimposingvilla, complete with .com; StationRd;dfrom £75) rainydays. inevitable those plete withCDplayerandboardgamesfor alittleA-frameGuests canuse lounge, com- cottage, plusaroomier‘nook suite’ annexe. squashed inundertheroof beamsof alisted hasthreethis homelyguesthouse rooms St;d£74-116; High window. land fromevery viewsofzines, plussweeping fieldsandfarm- furniture, antique chests andglossymaga- and uncluttered rooms,dotted withBalinese phere calming and modernelegance. Expect happy marriage old-worldatmos- between outsidePadstowfarmhouse represents a owned bythePrideauxclan,thissmartstone ershouse.co.uk; LittlePetherick; tw/d£60/80; converted cottage inthemanorgrounds. hogany wardrobes andvintage rugs,anda withrocking horses, ma- style roomsstuffed with aplethoraof shabby)heritage- (slightly shreddingly grandmansioninLittlePetherick, .co.uk; LittlePetherick; d£56-104; Manor Molesworth HOTELS &B&BS space are available, too. BBQs, surfpackages, beach gamesandtent views.Summer dorms withtop-drawersea home-cooking, designerlounge andcomfy Treyarnon toppedoff byacaféwith Bay, spotabovewall’s besthostel, inanunbeatable rejigged hasbeen house intoarguably Corn- Tregonnan; dm£15.50; bathroom andwater tap). electricity hook-up)orKernow (withprivate sitestandard orupgradetosuperior(with posted amilefromPadstow. a Choose Oct) Trerethern;ingpark.co.uk; campsites£14.50-25.50; dry area isjuststeps away. –andtheseaside caravans, plusashiny showerblockandlaun- Treverbyn House Treverbyn Althea Library Ballaminers House BayYHAHostel Treyarnon Park Padstow Touring Anotherwell-runfieldcampsite, sign- h Easter-Oct) Easter-Oct) (

% 532349; www.denniscove.co.uk; campsites (

pn % THE NORTH COAST ••Padstow THENORTH &Around (

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( 532717; www.althealibrary.co.uk; 27 %

540292; www.molesworthmanor Harry Potter wouldfeel ( ) As cosyastheycome,

( % 532855; www.treverbynhouse % 532061; www.padstowtour p 540933; www.ballamin

This1930sbeach ) ( ) % Live (oratleast 0870 7706076; p h ) Once Easter- more than a plainoldbowlof willdo. pasta dining onoffer intown,sometimesnothing 10; yard orintimate white-walled diningroom. to localproduce, andachoice of quietcourt- Mediterranean-inspired menu,acommitment add toPadstow’s packed address book,witha h door. Duchy next Bitter attheOldCustomHouse steak orcorn-fed chicken washeddownby turbot youcouldalwaysplumpfor rump- butifyou’re house, tiredtown’s oldexcise of inthe brasserie tinguishes thisbrightly-toned h pudding. in baked cod,guineafowlandstickytoffee stow’s gems, withafresh Britishmenutaking intheknowthisisoneofbut forthose Pad- tobook, this dinkylittlebistro,soyou’llneed 14.95; blackboard. grilled mackerel thespecials filletscolonise fromhomemadecarrotcakeeverything to feel; It’s buzzyandbusy,withafaintseaside backstreetat thiscontinental café-bistro. fare Restaurant areStein’s onoffer Seafood 15; on thepremises. topizzasspun ards fromauthenticbolognese for yourcravings, stand- withalltheItalian Thankfully thislaid-back restaurant cancater localmusicandStAustellcrab sarnies, ales. St, fronted byflowerbaskets andstocked with brace of fishermen’sboozers onLanadwell London Inn Eating restaurant. private gardenaswellaMichelin-starred penny, withlavish bedrooms,aregal lounge, It’spricey,butworthevery places tostay. oneofis rightly Padstow’s mostprestigious nationalawards,thispalatialB&Bseveral r£140-160; .co.uk; StErvan; top Padstow choice. and achoice of three breakfasts make thisa beds, pocket-sprung mattresses, roll-topbaths plus anextra-romanticturret hideaway.Pine Pescadou Bistro Margot’s Manor St Ervan No 6 Café Stein’s Rick Rojano’s h h lunch &dinner) dinner Wed-Sun) h lunch &dinnerTue-Sun) closed Sun)

( % lunch &dinnerTue-Sat) (

% 532093; 6 Middle St;mainsfromaround£15; 532093; 6Middle ( ( % % 532796; 9 Mill Sq;pizzas£4-8,pasta£6- 532796; 9Mill Fish,fishandmore fish dis- Stripped-downversions of 532444; LanadwellSt) (

Anotherfirst-rate place to ( 532359; SouthQuay;mains£14-18; % %

( % 01841 540255;info@stervanmanor 533441; 11 Duke St;mains£11.50- 533441; 11Duke 532700; Middle St;mains£8.50- 532700; Middle pn Despite allthefine Just nine tables at Just ninetables ) Having bagged Oneof a

227 CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL Newquay sitsslapbanginthe centre of oneof it orloathe it,there’s noescapingthe factthat hen partiesandwhite-shirted footiefans. Love space withboozed-up clubbers, high-heeled town, where sun-bleached surfers jostlefor of familyresort, themeparkandfull-onparty cluster of beaches, white-sand it’saweirdmix aboveist town.Strungoutalongthecliffs a ing andCornwall’sbusiestbrashest tour- streets of ofNewquay, thecapital Britishsurf- Hawaii smacksheadlongintoIbizaonthe % NEWQUAY utes) andNewquay(onehour 20 minutes). veering inlandtoNewquayairport(50min- including Trevone, Harlyn andPorthcothan, travels beaches downthecoastviaseveral (hourly MondaytoSaturday,sixonSunday) Petherick, andWadebridge. StIssey The556 at leasthourlyMondaytoSaturday)viaLittle toBodmin ParkwayBus 555goes (50minutes, lives upto the hype. places toget butthisisoneplacethat atable, friendsinhigh certified Cornish. You’llneed stone, andpretty much alltheproduceis isthemenu’scorner-ingly, superbseafood swingdoors. through Unsurpris- glimpsed plants andlocalart,achaotic kitchen ples, abubblydiningroomdrapedwithpotted forpredinner tip- think, withaconservatory of thebunch. thanyoumight It’slessstarchy that builttheStein empire, andstillthebest mains£17.50-45; Riverside; before theyearisout. odds are thisplace’llhave theMichelin seal Most of so thechefs are ex–GordonRamsay, 228 Gtig hr & Away & There Getting Seafood Restaurant Seafood merest mentionofPad-stein –butreally, it’shardlysurprising,isit? Rick, of Stein? Swingbythe (St EdmundsLa;r£260) could munchonamuffinfromthe to encompasshalfofPadstow. Ifyoucan’tbagatableattheSeafoodorspin-offcafé, hasswelled Building onthesuccessoforiginal portfolio SeafoodRestaurant,Stein’s property EFFECT STEIN THE Sat, 10am-5pmSun) chutneys andcheeses,pickuphiscookbooksatthe cod from Sun) 01637 /pop19,423 H OT OS • Nwuy COAST ••Newquay THE NORTH Contact the Contact , dineinstyleat Stein’s Fish &Chips Stein centralswitchboard , follow a cookery course at the Seafood School, or kip at courseattheSeafoodSchool,orkip , followacookery

( h % or St Petroc’s Bistro

lunch &dinner) 532700; www.rickstein.com; 532700; www.rickstein.com; St Petroc’s Hotel Stein Deli

(South Quay; Thebrick

(South Quay; Stein Patisserie (New St; (NewSt;d£125-195). h

( % noon-2.30pm & 5-9pm, takeaway noon-9pm) noon-2.30pm &5-9pm,takeaway h h 532700; www.rickstein.com) min/hr 5p/£3; h Hill; Hill; Tad &Nick’sTalk’n’Surf Quintdown Post office Laundrette Laundrette it hightailed for home. boyshavemiss andcomebackwhenthebeer charms, it’sprobably besttogive summera looking toappreciate thearea’s more natural and chucked-away chip wrappers. Ifyou’re arcades,greasychiming amusement spoons beyondthe mer itcanbepretty hardtosee Cornwall’s bestbitsof coastline,butinsum- 3 milessouthwest is find more elbow-room furtherafield. Some season. the swimming, plusbeach lifeguards throughout town beaches offer decentfacilities andgreat surfing Boardmasters festival. Despite Curl thesummercrowds,all Rip annual the famous surfingbeach, andthelocation for ever-reliable waves of Lusty Glaze are usuallyquieter alongthecoastlineat thanks totheirproximity totown.Things capacity withwindbreaks andbeach tents and The townbeaches of BEACHES Activities & Sights www.newquaynet.com office Tourist an events calendarand an events club guide. Information 9am-7pm Mon-Sat,10am-5pmSun) lunch &dinner) Stein Gift Shop

If thetownbeaches are toohectic,you’ll (Lanadwell St; 10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) Internet access. h Towan 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 9.30am-12.30pm Sun) Stein getsnotoriouslytetchy atthe ( ( ( ( and % are nearly alwayscrammedto h % % % ( , ortuckintoboutiquebattered % 08457 223344;EastSt) 10am-6pm) Internet access. 875242; 11 Trevena Tce;permin5p; 875242; 11Trevena 876558; Manor Rd) 876558; Manor 875901; 1BeachPde,Rd) h Porth 854020; www.newquay.co.uk; Marcus 854020; www.newquay.co.uk; Marcus

(Middle St; (Middle 9am-7pm Mon-Sat,10am-5pm forallenquiries. , whilesurfers haunt the ( Useful locallistingssite,with % Fistral Crantock Great Western Great St EdmundsHouse 874868; 72Fore St;per h , nln’ most England’s , next doorfor next lonelyplanet.com . Stillnotsick 9am-7pm Mon- , sandwiched , Tolcarne

soft androckpoolscaves sand toexplore family favourite of fast-flowing River Gannel.Furtherwestisthe Pentire, andbacked bygrassydunesandthe thetwinheadlandsof andWestbetween East lonelyplanet.com clifftop stroll,andthere’sclifftop asmallNational spotfora isalwaysaspectacular Bedruthan the beach tide, practicallydisappears athigh lenge forthecounty’srockclimbers. Though a haven forsea birds andanirresistible chal- BedruthanSteps miles furthereastare thestatelyrocktowers of of at low tide. growing centre foradventure sports.Afew Jamie Oliver’s restaurant Fifteen andafast- Beach Fistral Lodge (500m) To Lewinnick NEWQUAY 16 Watergate Bay Watergate East ofEast Newquayisthebroad,flatbeach To Crantock Beach(3mi);

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CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL Edgcumbe Ave, oraquick(andmortify- ruffed lemursruffed andalitter of impossiblycute est arrivalsincludered-fronted macaws,two owls andanAfricanlioncalledConnie;lat- pandas, sloths andpenguinstogreat-horned zoo’s resident populationranges fromred ing) tripaboard thetouristchoo-choo. The 10am-5pm Oct-Mar) adult/child/family £8.95/6/25; ( fish. the aretanks open-toppedsoyoucantouch 230 % More wildbeastiesreside at kitebuggying, mountainboardingandwaveskiing. kitebuggying, [email protected]) OutletsonTolcarneBeachandatPolzeath,[email protected]) weed.com both have surf reports forCornwall’sbeaches. reports weed.com bothhave surf Lastly, checktheswell before yousetout forthebeach–www.a1surf.com andwww.magicsea Outdoor Adventure Mobius Kite School EboAdventure Overhead Surf (£10/25/45 forone/three/seven days)andwetsuits(£5/12/25forone/three/seven days).Try shopsaroundNewquay hire tohireIf you’re outboards equipment,lotsofsurf justlooking School Reef Surf Gwithian AcademyofSurfing Extreme Academy AssociationBritish Surfing Academy Animal Surf beaches (notjustFistral) andofhigh-qualityequipment;don’tbeshytoshoparound. from aqualifiedteacher. The bestschoolsoffer minibustripstosomeofCornwall’sothersurfing Association; www.britsurf.co.uk),Surfing whichguarantees you’llreceive ahighlevel ofcoaching sure (from£135).Make yougowithaBSA-accreditedfull-blown multiday‘surfaris’ operator(British brimming over with schools,offering everythingsurf fromhalf-daytaster lessons(£25 to£30) they’ve mastered thebasicsofcatchingawave, ‘popping-up’andstandingupontheboard. as you’re tobeLairdHamiltoninaday,mostpeoplefindthatafter notexpecting afew lessons butaslong hasasteep learningcurve, do, itcanbeanotoriouslyfrustratingexperience. Surfing butsurprisinglyfewout inthelatest kit, ever getaroundtohittingthewaves –andforthosewho place forlearningtosurf. You’llsee plentyofwannabeboarderswanderingaroundtowndecked With abevyofworld-classbeachesandBritain’smostreliable swells,NewquayistheUK’spremier DUDE UP, SURF’S or based atGwithianBeach( p239 Adventure Cornwall ing orsea kayaking? % 873342; www.newquayzoo.co.uk; Trenance Gardens; H OT OS • Nwuy COAST ••Newquay THE NORTH Reputable operators: Whether you’re acomplete Newquayis novice orjustwanttobrushuponyourboardskills, For seasoned surfers looking formore thrillsandspills,howabouttrying looking For seasonedsurfers kitesurfing, coasteer- Fistral Hire BeachSurf 01637-851487) The BSA has its National Surfing Centre onFistral Beach. 01637-851487) TheBSAhasitsNationalSurfing , 10minutes’ walkalong (

% ( % ( % ( 0800 7816861;www.penhaleadventure.com; HolywellBay) % ( 01637-850808; ( ( % % 01637-879059; Great WesternBeach;www.reefsurfschool.com) % ( h 01637-860840; www.extremeacademy.co.uk; WatergateBay)Alsooffers lessonsin Polzeath 01637-831383; www.mobiusonline.co.uk; Cubert) 01288 362900;www.outdooradventure.co.uk; Bude) ). 01726-870844; www.adventurecornwall.co.uk; Fowey)

9:30am-6pm Apr-Sep, 9:30am-6pm Apr-Sep, ( % (www.nationalsurfingcentre.com; (www.nationalsurfingcentre.com; ; ( % 01637-850584; Fistral Beach). % Newquay Zoo h 0870 2422856;[email protected]; 01736-755493; www.surfacademy.co.uk) Anotherexcellent operator 01736-755493; www.surfacademy.co.uk) 9am-6pm;

Great WesternBeach ride therailsaboard RonnieCorbett–sized Miniature plastic Brobdingnagianform)atthe Alternatively, child/family £7.95/6.95/28; World cow milkingare onoffer at the hipflask.Ponyrides,billygoatsand the kidsandhave theparents reaching for family-friendly attractionsthat’llentertain can playkeeper foraday for £85. BuddingDavid Bellamys baby marmosets. Newquay is surrounded by several other Newquay issurroundedbyseveral

Fistral; ( %

( 510246; www.dairylandfarmworld.com;adult/ % % 19CliffRd; 01872-572828; HaltRd,Goonhavern) 01637-850737;

you could see theworld(in you couldsee Tolcarne Harbour Beach h ; % 10am-5pm late Mar-Oct). 10am-5pm lateMar-Oct). Lusty Glaze; 01637-858808; lonelyplanet.com Dairyland Farm 1BeaconRd) World in or

slatted blinds,tiledfloors mu- andbigsunset .info; 10-12BerryRd;dm£15-29.50; and satellite TV, andanaward-winning and satellite TV, with packed-in sites, hook-ups forpower est of all,at 10.30am-4pmTue-ThuApr-Sep, &Nov). &SunOct ( steam trains at Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com lo block. loo £14-27) Beach Porth Camping thanatin tighter of pilchards. but, asusual,thedormbedsare crammed in great sundeckoverlooking thegolfcourse plants andIndonesianfurniture. There’s a with alively-café-bar peppered with yucca Newquay’s surflodges isonTowanHeadland, .co.uk; 32HeadlandRd;dm£20-25; lounge and bar.licensed dorm rooms,plusfree netaccessandaDVD withtheusualboarding-school basic affair, £16-20; overbooked. chronically town, butthebedsare anditgets saggy and more thanmanyothers round efficient surflodge.standard It’scleaner,smarter and retro furniture, thisisstillyourbog- the glitzytrappingsof plasma-screen TVs fooled bytheflashywebsite –underneath dorms. upstairs the wallscharacterise bunk bedsandoff-white upthelounge-bar,rals brighten whilepine .com; 20TowerRd;dm£15-20) tion, dependingonyourpoint of view). are indire of need someTLC (ordemoli- butlookbeforestag-dos, youbook–some lodges catering fortheinfluxof surfers and withhostelsNewquay isstuffed andsurf BUDGET Weird. pardner. andall.Yee-ha, saloon theme park,stables, shoot itoutarounda lumb, dodgilydressed Cornish gunslingers h adult/child/family£7/5/22;.wildwestthemepark.co.uk; East; adult/child/family£9.20/7.50/29; Sleeping % Boarding House Lodge Home Surf Lodge Surf Reef Lodge Base Surf 10.30am-5pm Sun-Thu May-Sep) 01872-510317; www.lappavalley.co.uk; StNewlyn Populartourist park justoff Porth, i ) Next door to Base, thisisamore NextdoortoBase,

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( % 872658; www.carltonhotelnewquay % 873040; www.harbourhotel.co.uk; 873040; www.harbourhotel.co.uk; ( % pn 872211; www.headlandhotel Laminate floors, whiteLaminate 870848; www.rockpoolcottage i 872519; www.carnmarth Thisintimate hotel pis ) ) Swankyrooms, ) Memor- Runby 231

The CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL nate thisstylish café-bar withapatioabove weekends. DJs on plusparty,pop andhouse nights, tail is popularforbig-screen sportsandcock- noon-1am Sat) Mon, Wed&Sun,noon-2am Tue, noon-midnightThu&Fri, for localboysJelly Jazz. and aregularand drumbassnights, slot clubbers,noisseur withregular Latin house, Underneath Chy,Koolaisthechoice for con- till 2amor3am. have aweekend cover-charge open andstay choons rather thananythingclassy.Most come prepared for alco-popsandcheesy Newquay isCornwall’spartycentral,but Entertainment & Drinking beautiful peoplearrive enmasse. DJs take tothedecks,beers flowandthe orpitchor lunchtime uplate salad, whenthe PerfectTowan Beach. foragourmetbreakfast mains £11-18) Divine. boats. cold Chabliswithaviewof bobbingfishing cooked intheoutsidegrill-shackwhileyousip lions toaking-sized roast cod,crab claws andmonkfishmedal- by theharbourside, withfishytreats from mains£10-15; Hill; and confit of duck. including rumpsteak, chargrilled chicken Thefood’snotbad,either, withmains vistas. dining roomoffering panoramicAtlantic down, withagrassyterrace andgloss-wood gastropub winsthesea-view prizehands £9-12.25) able atthe downstairs café. formalfareand localscallops.Less isavail- suchwell asCornish asfish standards pie with ThaiandMediterranean flavours, as modern glass-fronted eatery experiments h nights opens forThaimealsseveral a week. its all-daybreakfast asthebestintownand this popularall-daycafé,which champions and chunky are sandwiches of themainstays mains £6-10; 232 New HarbourRestaurant Lewinnick Lodge Fistral Blu Fistral Chef Koola Chy Walkabout lunch &dinner) H OT OS • Nwuy COAST ••Newquay THE NORTH

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( ( ( % % breakfast &lunch) % h Right on Fistral Beach, this onFistralBeach, Right 853000; TheCrescent; 879444; Fistral Beach;mains£7-19; 850718; 2BeaconRd;breakfasts £2-6, (

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booze. Shy and retiring typesshouldsteerclear.booze. Shyandretiring pub-club where themainemphasisisonrock-bottom and big-namehouseDJs. tohenparties fromkaraoke nightclubs, hostingeverything 27-29 CliffRd; Barracuda Bars Vic Lion Red when theweather’swarm. spacious frontterrace isalwaysoverflowing institution forapre-club warm-up,andthe tre isaNewquay of town,therowdyCentral at theairport. Short- and long-term parkingisalsoavailable flat £10,or£5per person fortwopeople. ( a minibustransfer with tocatch youcanbookneed anearlierflight, 6pm, withafew ifyou in theevening; buses to theairportfromNewquay 9amto and theIslesof Scilly.Bus556travels hourly Edinburgh Dublin,Belfast, include Cardiff, via Plymouth.OtherUKairports served toLondonGatwickup tofourdailyflights whileAirSouthwesthasLondon Stansted, tocities. Ryanairhasatleastonedailyflight airport.com) Newquay Airport Getting There&Away Sailor’s Arms with regular livemusicand plentyofalesontap. for local bands on Friday andSaturdaynight. for localbandsonFriday % Central fast, lunch&dinner) menu £24.50,6-coursedinner£50; WatergateBay;3-courselunch .fifteencornwall.com; ary cooking won’tdisappoint. ary cooking atmosphereviews, electric andcontempor- if youmanagetobagatable,thebeach currently thehottest inthecounty– ticket Fifteenturning outtop-qualitycooking, is professional restaurant environmentwhile totraininayoungsters anopportunity Designed togive underprivilegedCornish his Fifteen restaurant on Watergate Bay. recently openedthesecondbranchof favourite mockneychefJamie Oliver has everyone’shabits ofBritain’sschoolkids, to changethestomach-churningeating Fifteen Cornwall ARMY OLIVER’S 01726-861108). ( ( % %

( ( hasregular tovariousUK flights % % h 872671; King St)Grungy venuethat’sgood 872671; King ( 871195; North Quay Hill) Old surfer’s pub Oldsurfer’s QuayHill) 871195; North % 878310; 11CentralSq) 875800; www.barracudanewquay.com; 9pm-3am) OneofNewquay’sbiggest

872838; Fore St) Notoriously low-rent 872838; Fore St)Notoriously ( The fare totheairportisa % Fresh fromhiscampaign

860600; www.newquaycornwall ( % 01637-861000; www Summercourt Travel Summercourt Bang inthecen- Bang lonelyplanet.com h break-

Crantock (15 minutes), Holywell Bay (20min- Crantock (15minutes), HolywellBay a slowerroute toTruroalongthecoastvia to Saturday),whilethehourly587follows Truro (50minutes, twice-hourlyMonday Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com camp sites nearby. thereing, although are somelovely coastal Perran’s hotels andB&Bsare pretty uninspir- Eating & Sleeping Rd. is onCliff unsuspecting youngrecruits? of dotothose somewobblingfleshmight nearby –after all,whoknowswhatthesight grin of theMOD,whoownatrainingcamp ally frequented bynaturists,much tothecha- Time). Nearby Cornish time(ratherthanGreenwich Mean to commemorate themillenniumandshow windsuptoagiant staircase or bodyboarding. ortryyourhandatsomekitesurfingsands so you’llhave plentyof space tostrollthe thetownispracticallydeserted, Off-season coach tours thepeakmonths. throughout always jam-packed withday-trippers and towns onthenorthcoast,andit’snearly ranporth isoneof themostpopularbeach With 3milesof andexcellent sand surf, Per- % Mill, aboutamilefromthemanorhouse. quay. Bus526runsfromNewquaytoKestle a century. more than 100 grass-cutters goingbackover inthebarn,with odd lawnmowermuseum lection of periodfurniture. There’s alsoan fireplaces, original plasterwork andafinecol- other intriguingfeatures, includingornate ing of theGreat Chamber,buthasplentyof famous fortheelaborate barrel-roofed ceil- h manor of Built in1751,thecharming Elizabethan TRERICE line. 45 minutes), onthemainLondon–Penzance NewquayandParbetween (£5.20oneway, utes) andPerranporth (50minutes). PERRANPORTH The 585/586busisthemostfrequent to The There are coupleof trainsevery hours On thesouthernsideof thebeach acliff Trerice isabout 3milessoutheast of New- 11am-5pm Sun-Fri Mar-Oct, gardensfrom10.30am) Mar-Oct, 11am-5pm Sun-Fri 01872 /pop4003 tourist office tourist Trerice Penhale Sands

(NT; (

% % 573368; www.perraninfo.co.uk) 01637-875404; admission£6; isalsooccasion- sundial THE NORTH COAST ••Trerice THENORTH , built is

£3-8) bar makes asthe afineplaceforcoldbeer fronted houses hint atthetown’sformerfronted houses calling gulls. Miners’ cottages andstone- with the strainsofechoes crashingsurfand of minepumps andsteam engines,andnow which onceresounded tothethumpandclang litterney stacks thehilltopsaround St Agnes, Abandoned chim- andghostly enginehouses % ST AGNES&PORTHTOWAN en route fromNewquaytoTruro. 587 stopsoff inPerran hour atleastonceevery except onSaturday).Themore regular bus Saturday) andStIves (1½hours, fourdaily Newquay (20minutes, three dailyexcepton while Bus501travels alongthecoastbetween six dailyMondaytoSaturday)viaStAgnes, Bus T1travels toTruro(50minutes, fourto Getting There&Away evenings. on weekends andbeach barbiesonsummer the outsidewoodendeck;lookoutforbands rub shoulders with day-trippingfamilieson down.Surfer dudesandbeachsun goes chicks chickens). sourcedfromtheowner’s fast (includingeggs views andastonkinghome-cooked break- including afour-poster suite, countryside well-keptand welcoming,witheight rooms isthebestplaceinPerran.house Itishomely £90-100; s£45,d£80-90, f gescountryhouse.co.uk; Hill; StGeorge’s views. sea for oneof theupstairs roomsforunbeatable and carpetsinthebathrooms,anyone?);ask with a21st-centuryspruce-up(netcurtains it’s handyforthebeach. Theroomscoulddo This oldpub-hotel isn’ttooattractive, but views. play area, sparklingshower blockandcoastal spread over fourareas, withasmallchildren’s campground amilefromtownoffers sites sitesfrom£11; Hill; thefacilitiesarealthough fairlybasic. offers plentyof spacefortents andcaravans, from thePenhale dunes,thisbusycampsite Budnick; sites£8-18; Seiner’s Arms Seiner’s Farm Park Tollgate Touring Park andTouring Camping Perranporth Watering Hole Watering Country Hotel St Georges 01872 /pop7257 Sunk into the sands, thisbreezy beach Sunkintothesands,

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h ( ( % % Easter-Oct) Easter-Oct) Easter-Oct) Easter-Oct) 572888; Perranporth Beach;mains 572888; Perranporth 573118; BeachRd;dfrom£60)

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CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL spars.com; d from£98; of the creeper-covered house. fire lounge gardenwithviews andapleasant have bathrooms. Downstairs there’s alog- are small,chintzy andsimple,onlythree schemes at home. willfeel The rooms right so fansof floralfurnishings andpastel colour Aggie, thisisaBritish B&Bof theoldschool, nick Rd;s£34.50-49.50,d£49-59; laundry and guest freezers. spread over 1.5hectares withasmallshop, is nearthePresingoll pottery shop, Barns for 2adults£11; FarmPresingoll liant beach bar. with surfers andbodyboarders, andabril- beachwide sandy withthat’salwayspopular townofthe smallcoastal Porthtowan, witha some viewsof viaawe- alongtheclifftops pathgoes ing cliff mile orsofromStAgnes. Fromhere adizzy- abovecliffside thelovely cove of lodes, including mines workingthearea’sseveral rich mineral tin-mining. Acenturyortwoagothere were prosperity asoneof thecentres forCornish 234 down to the sandy beachdown tothesandy at Sepn & Eating & Sleeping Driftwood Spars Driftwood A coupleof mileswestfromStAgnes is Penkerris

BEACHES BEST CORNWALL’S

ETCRWL WEST CORNWALL ( p239 Chapel Porth ( Chapel Porth below Chapel ( p243 Bay ( p270 ( p229 ( p250 ( p226 ( ranporth p233 For outdoorsports For starkerssunbathers For solitude For views For hikers For surfers Summerleaze ( p220 For families ( p220 ),WidemouthBay( p220 ) ) ) ),Crooklets( p220

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) : : ( St Agnes Head St Agnes BedruthanSteps ( p229 Porthgwarra ( Porthgwarra p243 % : 552262; www.penkerris.co.uk; Penwin-552262; www.penkerris.co.uk;

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) HouselBay( p250 ( p % 552333; Penwinnick Rd;campsite ), Kennack Sands( ),Kennack p250 ) The handiestcampsite ) 01872-552428; www.driftwood Thislaid-back beach- ) : ),KynanceCove Watergate Bay p ),Polzeath , before tumbling : Trevaunance Cove Trevaunance The Strangles , which hugsthe Ontheedge of ) ) Chapel Porth Chapel Porth ),Lantic ), Porth ),Porth ),Per- ), ), a a . (15 minutes, twohours), every andinthe Bus T1travels fromStAgnes toPerranporth Getting There&Away Aggie’s younger set. sup somelocalaleandrubshoulders with at thebottomof StAgnes where youcan for sinkingacoldone at sundown. overlookingplus tables thebeach tailor-made primary colours andanopen-planinterior, scene. surfyinside,withbold It’sallsuitably brings someBondiflairtoCornwall’ssocial at Porthtowan,thisthrivingbeach hangout mains£6-13; Porthtowan; room andluxurious sitting area. Suite, withagrandbath- pick istheRose rooms, decorated incountryfashion;the grounds, thehotel offers elegant effortlessly lence. Surroundedbylawnsandflower-filled formed intoacountrygetaway parexcel- trans- hasbeen manorhouse mine-captain’s d from£130; -hotel.co.uk; Mithian; £16.95). to restaurant (mains£11.95breezy seafood and in maritimeparaphernalia,andabright bohos andale-drinkers, withbars swimming thehauntofbeen choice forAggie’s surfers, front pubatTrevaunance Cove haslong ancient sites thisside of Stonehenge. restored tinmine andthemost atmospheric theatre, path, aswellaclifftop a coastal cover someamazingcoves alongthesnaking the skyline. Take sometimeandyou’lldis- insharprelief stand ten minestacks against andforgot- cliffs, up againstgorse-topped up fromthehilltops,ancientmoorland buts beautifulareas; starkly stonemonumentsrise a real shame,asit’soneof Cornwall’smost End.And that’s outside StIves andLand’s of Cornwallreceives relatively few visitors honey trapsof thenorthcoast,wildwest While mostvisitors headforthetourist including St Agnes. Newquay, stoppingatmostplacesenroute, StIvesalong thenorthcoastbetween and 501 (fourdailySundaytoFriday)meanders least hourly)fromMondaytoSaturday.The opposite direction to Truro(30minutes, at WS CORNWALL WEST Blue Bar Hotel Rose-in-Vale Tap House

Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

( ( % % 01209-890329; www.blue-bar.co.uk; 553095; 1Peterville)

h ( % lunch &dinnerThu-Sun) 552202; www.rose-in-vale ps Alively pub This former ) Over 10am-4pm Sun)InsidetheGuildhall. Street-an-Pol; ming heartof theCornishartscene. Nestled quay nabs thenightlife, St Ives isthehum- While Padstow grabs thegourmetsandNew- % IVES ST lonelyplanet.com Tourist office Tourist Post office Library escapes. intriguing seaside mains oneof Cornwall’smosteclecticand butdespite itspopularityStIvestraffic, re- tourist The onlydrawbackistheinevitable harbourside.especially aroundthehorseshoe cafés, bars, bistros,surfshopsandseafood years they’ve joinedbyahotchpotch been of St Ives’ meanderingalleyways,butinrecent 1920s and’30s.Artgalleriesaplentystillline along thetown’scobbledstreets duringthe painters andsculptorsuptheirstudios set haven fortheartsafter astream of influential pilchard harbours, butreinvented asa itself historically oneof Cornwall’smostimportant StIvesholiday hotspotof Bay, was Carbis nearthe of sea beside ashimmeringcurve 5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pmSat) 5.30pm Mon-Fri, Information think ofanywhere else I’dratherbe.’ and showwhatan excitingplaceCornwallis. We’re incredibly lucky tolive downhere. Ican’t springing upevery day.The aimofthemagazinewasto shinealightonsomeofthesethings musicand outdoor theatre goingon,andthereof art, are excitingbars, galleriesandrestaurants andbeautifulcoastline,butwe’vegreat alsogotanamazing surfing cultural scene,with allsorts huge changesinCornwallandtheway it’sperceived bytherest coursewe’ve got ofBritain.Of subscribers asfarafieldLondon,Bristol andBirmingham. But it’snotjustalocalthing–themagazine hasarapidlygrowingreadership upcountry,with buzzy mixoflocalcoverage combinedwithlifestyle, music,culturaland environmentalfeatures. it, move homeandsetupthemagazine.’ Ifinallydecidedtojust get onwith Soafter yearsofummingandahhing, that drawsyouback. but Ialwayswanted tomove home. Cornwallgetsinyourblood–there’s somethingabout it away tostudyatuniversity. asafreelance Ithenspentseveral writer yearsworking inLondon, people andouruniqueculture andheritage. Igrew uphere manyyoungpeople,moved but,like Magazine as oneofthecountry’smostcreative counties. AccordingtoHelenGilchrist,editorof bined Universities ofCornwall,soit’shardlysurprisingthatCornwallhasestablishedareputation ventures heritage,nottomentiongroundbreaking artistic andtheCom- suchastheEdenProject naturalscenery,athrivingculinarylandscape,world-class gardensandarichIt’s gotspectacular SHINING ALIGHTONCORNWALL 01736 /pop9870 ‘People are genuinelyinterested inwhat’sgoingondownhere. I’ve Sincewestarted, noticed Since itslaunchin2005, ‘Cornwall isauniqueplace,notjustbecauseofthenaturallandscape,but becauseofthe ( % ( % 795377; 1 Gabriel St;Netaccessperhr£3) 795377; 1Gabriel h (www.stranger-mag.com), (Cornwall) Kernow isdefinitely where it’sat. ( % 795004; 11 Tregenna Hill; 795004; 11Tregenna Hill; 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pmSat, 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, WESTCORNWALL••StIves 796297; [email protected]; Stranger h hasproved ahugehitwithlocalaudiencesthanks toits 9am- white concrete curlabove PorthmeorBeach, Centre Beach. patiooverlookingwith afantastic Porthmeor worth. Onthetopfloorisastylish café-bar striking sculptures Hep- byDameBarbara Wallis are allrepresented, alongsideseveral andthenaive CornishpainterLeach Alfred Heron, Nicholson, thepotter Bernard Ben Ives School. Terry Frost,NaumGabo,Patrick rich inworksbyartistsconnected withtheSt collectionoffantastic modernartisespecially surroundings;its evokes itsnaturalseaside and glittering white walls,thegallery’sdesign galleries,plate-glass windows With itscurving sister institutions inLondonandLiverpool. bitasimpressivethe galleryisevery asits Sun Nov-Feb) museum £8.75/4.50; withBarbaraHepworth adult/child £5.75/3.25,jointticket Ives around inStIves, butthestunning There’s noshortage of artgalleriestonose GALLERIES Activities & Sights www.stives-cornwall.co.uk accommodation and activity guides. accommodation andactivity Elsewhere aroundStIves, the

( % isatreasure trove of tinyartists’studios 796226; www.tate.org.uk/stives; Porthmeor Beach; 796226; www.tate.org.uk/stives; Porthmeor isthecentrepiece. Hovering like a h 10am-5pm Mar-Oct, 10am-4pmTue- 10am-5pm Mar-Oct, Official townwebsitewith Official Stranger Sloop Craft Sloop Craft Tate St St Tate

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The studiohas t lonelyplanet.com 10am-5.30pm Mar- 8 St Ives Bay Beach Porthgwidden Harbour the i 1953. in Skeaping, whowaskilledinanaircrash St IaChurch commemorates hersonPaul and hermoving Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Prher Beach). Porthmeor approved try and Fore St touristy beach of just belowtheTate. Alongthe coastisthe gentle swells,andwithahandy beach café swimmers andnovice surfers thankstoits theTateBelow is gets busyonwarmdays. but inevitably cliffs, that’s usuallysheltered fromthe windbythe with anattractive arcof soft goldensand smallest)churchcertainly in St Ives. of children andsailors, andtheoldest(and 14th-century little ’uns.Onthepromontoryispre- nic spotandahandypaddlingforthe little cove of headland knownunderTheIsland,isthe tuckedNear themuseum, underthegrassy BEACHES of a Cornish kitchen. photos of famousStIves artistsandareplica artefacts ranging fromshipwreck salvage to with cally haphazardlocal-historymuseum, h the cinema, sailors’ missionandcoppermine, asapilchard-packing factory,laundry, used inapiersideHoused buildingvariously ST IVESMUSEUM workbyeight selling modern potters. of hiswork,supplemented byashowroom h ( function ratherthanform.Hisformer ideaswithastrongemphasison and Eastern pottery created auniquefusion of Western inJapan, ononeshehadseen based Leach’s sculpture, andusingahand-constructed kiln ing inspirationfromJapanese andOriental Stennack. Draw- ics inhisstudioHigher was hardatworkreinventing Britishceram- tural ground,thegifted potter Leach Bernard While Hepworth wasbreaking newsculp- POTTERY LEACH BERNARD % Several places around Porthmeor Beach placesaroundPorthmeorBeach Several On theothersideof townis Windansea 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pmSatMar-Oct) 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) 796398; www.leachpottery.com;adult/child£2.50/1.50; St Ives Museum St Ives St Ives Surf School Surf St Ives

rent wetsuitsand surfboards;

( Chapel ofStNicholas Porthgwidden % Madonna AndChild 794830; 25Fore St) Carbis Bay Carbis Porthmeor

displays manyexamples ( % 796005; admission£1.50; , a pleasant pic- , apleasant .

, topchoice for ( % ortheBSA- , patron saint , patronsaint Porthminster WESTCORNWALL••StIves 0966 498021; isatypi- inside studio ,

ators ontheharbour. £80/100; while the rear one overlooks a garden patio; made. Thetwofrontrooms have townviews, ridors thehand-creams andeven are artisan- B&B above town,where localartlinesthecor- and cappuccinocarpets distinguish thischic .co.uk; ViewTce;d£100-110; 11Sea you’ll bedeadhappy. Egyptian cottonsheets are point, aselling bathrobes and Ifscented soap,fluffy service. to itscream-and-check roomsandstarchy villa attractsamore genteel crowdthanks savvy. digiboxes andwi-fi thetechno- willplease while salvage bedskeep thefunkfactorhigh, cushions, technicolour artworkandtimber- rooms are simplewithoutbeingbland–spotty artistic owners alongall-organic lines.The runby Bay, conscience atthisB&BinCarbis 1 Pednolver Tce;d£90-100; rooms (sixof which have views). sea gardensandspaciousheritage-style clifftop withpanoramicviewsacrossthebay, house, hotel in a double-fronted Victoriantown .com; Trelyon Ave; d£80-104; in theheartof town. andpinefurniturebath taps –andit’sbang wallpaper. Here it’sallcleanlines,chrome a worldawayfromchintzy andflock curtains s/d £45/64; hemmed in. for hipyoungthings,butfamilieswillfeel glinting sinksmake thisafavourite sleep and cushions, flockcurtains shades, fluffy ture andmemorable design.Technicolour where theemphasisisfirmlyonfunfurni- .co.uk; 4Park Ave; s£30-42,d£60-88; Bay. in Carbis findbetter value soyoumight season, high prices (andspace)are atapremium inthe areGuesthouses 10-a-pennyinStIves, but Sleeping ( run bythe grey-seal colonyon Island(£8)areSeal Sea-fishing tothe cruises trips andcoastal TRIPS BOAT % Jamies Panda Organic Hotel Pebble Private Eleven Sea View Terrace View Sea Eleven Hotel Dean Court Treliska 796080/07712 386162) p n (

% ( ) % This detached 1920ssea-view Thisdetached ) St Ives Pleasure BoatAssociation Pleasure StIves Another glitzy guesthouse that’s Anotherglitzyguesthouse 794718; WhealWhidden,CarbisBay;s/d 797678; www.treliska.com; 3BedfordRd; 797678; www.treliska.com;

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( % 793890; www.organicpanda.co.uk; ( andlotsof otheroper- % p p 796023; www.deancourthotel

( 794168; www.pebble-hotel % Upmarket 12-room ) ) Sleep withaclear Sleep p 798440; www.11stives n Creams, checks ) ) Groovy B&B 237

CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL 7.95, dinner£10.95-16.95) tered bedsandthreadbare carpets,butit’shandy for town. ispretty grungy, withcrampeddorms,bat- backpackers 16.95; www.backpackers.co.uk/st-ives; TheStennack;dm£10.95- kitchen of thiscafé,from weaver andturbotto offthedayboats intothe tion comes straight too. touch, The recycled boxes andnapkinsare anice in sunflowerbapstoblackbeanchilli burgers. the gourmetcreations range frombeetburgers work of artatthisdesignerburger joint,where £4-8; town’s back-lanes too. bourside, butthere are sometreats alongthe Most of theactionislocated aroundthe har- Eating Chy Lelan Cornerways Backpackers International St Ives best littleboltholes in Cornwall. andyouhavePorthminster oneof Beach, the lounge-barhattan-style andfablocation near Throw inalocallysourcedbreakfast, Man- bathrooms. andmosaic-lined lights Starck byPhilippeblues andpastel purples,offset brick,whileothers exposed flourish withsea boast blondewood,leatherarmchairs and the roomshave characteristic quirks–some hotels.design torivalmostmetropolitan All friendly credentials andaneyeforinterior boutique hotel with10individualrooms,eco- Ives’ secret gems; aswish guesthouse-cum- 225; Beach;d£105-145,ste£160- online.co.uk; Porthminster conjure the luxury air. showers, tasteful lampsandlounge chairs help suites). body-jet MoltonBrownbathstuffs, five rooms(alldesignated as pampertastic grounds, balustradedbreakfast terrace and of theCôte d’Azur,thankstoitsmanicured supplements, thisluxurioushotel hasaflavour Ave; r£140-170; holiday flat(£500to£800perweek). for more spaceaskforthenewlyconverted 238 compensates forthe incey-wincey rooms. on abackstreet inDownalong,where thecentrallocation 1 BethesdaPl;d£50-80)Tiny littleflower-covered cottage light roomsbanginthemiddle of town. Hill; d£50-60; Hill; o Blue Hayes Seafood Café Seafood Blas Burgerworks p h ETCRWL • S vs WEST CORNWALL••StIves i ) lunch) This fantastic hideawayisoneofThis fantastic St ) HousedinaWesleyanChapel,thisshabby ( % Primrose Valley Primrose ( n % Thehumbleburger becomes a

( 797560; www.chylelan.co.uk; Bunkers 797560; www.chylelan.co.uk; Bunkers % p ) 17th-centuryguesthousewithfresh,

796706; www.cornerwaysstives.com; ( % 797129; www.bluehayes.co.uk; Trelyon ) Afavourite of theSunday

( 794004; 45Fore St;lunch £3.95- % Fishof descrip- every 797272; TheWarren; burgers (

% 794939; www.primrose ( % 799444; veggie oracarnivore. as chuffed withyourchoice whetheryou’re a allfeature,and spicycasseroles andyou’llbe sine. bread, Artisan lentilcurries,grilledfish by tracesof cui- AfricanandMiddleEastern where themodernBritish menu isjazzedup oddball furniture covers bistro, thisfantastic heap of NorthAfricanrugs, Beach; lunch£7.95-11.95,dinner£16.90-18.90) line in Italian-influenced salads andrisottos. salads line inItalian-influenced withaside- It’s especiallystrongonseafood, and slidingdoors openingontotheharbour. side bistro,withjustafew tinywoodtables & dinner) St; mains£9-16; scallops. ing lunch bowl of orCornish garlicmussels coffee andbreakfast orasteam- patisseries bistro thanbeach café–pitch upforLavazza Despitester’s themoniker, sands. it’smore with abreezy patiodeckjustoff Porthmin- buzzy Rivieravibearoundthisbeachside café station. this glass-fronted pizzerianeartheoldlifeboat keep thepuntersmade pizzabases happyat & dinner) andcakessandwiches are also really good. bream club sea andsharksteaks. Theciabattas, ceilinged boozer afavourite with StIves’ old Hen, alesmake and Bass thisbeam- DoomBar theweek. throughout technoFunk, house, andcheesy discoplayed floor, hot-and-heavy dancefloor upstairs. els; chrome-edge chill-out barontheground h lattes andhotchocolate byday. void, withDJsandlive and musicbynight, fully thisfunkyopen-plancafé-bar fillsthe action isthinonthegroundinStIves; thank- Hub Drinking squid are someof theexotictreats instore. fish, skateLine-caught tempura andpan-fried space where youcanwatch thechefs atwork. amazing foodinacontemporary split-level theAlbacontinuestoturnout ticated seafood, h Alba Alfresco o Onshore Porthminster BeachCafé Porthminster Sloop Inn Isobar to 2am) lunch &dinner)

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( % 10am-late) ( % 795352; Porthminster 795352; Porthminster objets d’art lonelyplanet.com OldSpeckled 797074; 16Andrews After-dark There’s a A hectic h h and lunch lunch matinees. Royal Cinema Entertainment bag aspotononeof thewharfsidetables. or forthenight, intoaboothseat boys. Settle lonelyplanet.com Penzance End. andLand’s viaZennor day toSaturday)trundlesaroundthecoast Ives toPenzance; the343bus(five dailyMon- Saturday, hourlyonSunday)regularly linkSt 17/17A/17B(twicehourlyMondayto Buses Getting There&Away Festival.during theStIves September programmes of musicandtheatre, especially Stennack) Land's Cornwall Priest’s End Sennen PENWITH &LAND'SEND Cove Penpow N Whitesand Guildhall Cove

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(6mi) 239 (6mi) CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL Sun-Fri May-Sep, 11am-5pm Sun-Fri Apr & Oct) Apr&Oct) 11am-5pmSun-Fri May-Sep, Sun-Fri Hirst in the 1930s,from blacksmiths’ ham- magpie-minded collectorColonel ‘Freddie’ a treasure trove of artefacts gathered bythe Museum Pendour Cove and comb;themermaid’sfavourite hauntof cate designsof amermaidholdingmirror ends commemorate thelegend with intri- the boxed text, above sociations withtheMermaid (see of Zennor village isalsofamousforitsmythologicalas- autobiographical novel Women inLove 1915 and1917,aperiodwhich spawned famouslysojournedLawrence here between aroundthegranite set acluster of andavillageZennor, pub houses moorland. Five mileswestfromStIves is of chequerboard fieldsandgranite-strewn aneye-poppingpanorama winding through and StJustisoneof Cornwall’s mostscenic, StIvesThe wildB3306coastroadbetween % mealsfromThursdaynight to Saturday gie wrapsandcrumblycakes, aswelllate- Thu-Sat) wiches &lightmeals£3-8; season) ( the dunes,including To The Lighthouse classic ginia Woolf’sstream-of-consciousness inspirationforVir-is Godrevy Lighthouse, 20th century;attheotherendof the sincethemid- industrial ports,butdisused 240 ZNO & PENDEEN & ZENNOR % Downhill fromthechurch, the There are acoupleof beach cafésbehind beyond Pendour Cove. still hearthefaintstrainsofMatthewandhisbeloved mermaidsinging somewhere inthewaves nor themermaidwere ever seenagain.It’ssaidthatifyousitonthecliffs attwilightyoumight Matthewfollowedthisbeautifulstrangerouttowards theclifftops,andneitherhe the service and assoonMatthewthemermaidlaideyesononeanothertheyfell madlyinlove. After her longtail,themermaidcameashore oneSundaytofindthesourceofthismagnificentvoice, living innearbyPendour Cove. Disguisingherselfwithalongdress, andbeingcareful toconceal the ChurchofStSenara,andhissinging wassaidtohave attracted theattentions ofamermaid singing voiceanddashinggoodlooks. Every nightMatthewwouldsingtheclosinghymnin Zennor’s mostfamouslegendtells thestoryoflocalladMatthewTrewhella, famousforhisfine THE MERMAID OFZENNOR 01736 01736-752575; 10GwithianTowans; ETCRWL • Zno ede WEST CORNWALL••Zennor &Pendeen and the , which does sandwiches, risottos,veg- sandwiches, , which does

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worked candles,enduring ever- bytallow ing shaftsanddanktunnelswhere miners –aclaustrophobic mazeofmine itself echo- below groundyoucanventure intotheold ery where the tinore wasextracted, while can wanderaroundtheoldminingmachin- tions of aCornish tinner. Above groundyou intotheharshing insight workingcondi- of Pendeen, which nowprovides afascinat- h ( was line. Thelast to close stillpunctuate thecrag-backedhouses coast- in thiswildcornerof Cornwall,andengine kitchen and two reclaimed watermills. mers andcobblers’ toolstoan18th-century dose sandwiches. doorstep flock here forthe homemadecakes and hikersa popularstop-off forcoastal who Thehugea familystay. downstairs caféis well-kept dorms,some theperfect sizefor cellent independenthostel, withsmart, nor’s oldWesleyanchapel isnowanex- .backpackers.co.uk/zennor; dm/f£12/50; Hostel Old ChapelBackpackers Eating & Sleeping raging Atlantic waves. mine shafts extendingoutbeneaththe right which hasabandoned matic enginehouses, is nearby shafts inaction.Clingingtothecliffs theoriginalpump- engines, where youcansee Nov-Mar) 4pm orFri 11am- plusTue Jul-Sep, &Oct, Wed-Fri Apr,May Jun,Wed&Fri adult£5; [email protected]; to life atthe explosions. underground present dangers of rockfalls,airpollution and % Botallack Mine More of Cornwall’sminingheritage comes Tin industry miningwasoncethestaple hourly tours10am-4pmEaster-October) 788662; www.geevor.com; adult/child£7.50/4.50; Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com , oneof Cornwall’soldestbeam Levant Engine House Engine Levant , oneof Cornwall’smostdra-

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Alice-sized rooms,complete withrusticfur- offersSue Wilson,thehouse justacoupleof escape theoutsideworld.Runbylocalpotter village,of makes Zennor afabulousplaceto .co.uk; s/d£35/60) lonelyplanet.com and broke one of itwas thefour uprights; back, but astormin1815blew thequoitdown to accommodateenough amanonhorse- In the18thcentury, themonumentwastall quoit toppedbya huge 13.5-tonnecapstone. aclassically shaped Madron andMorvah, The mostimpressive is worn awaytoreveal thesupporting structure. but over have thecenturies these often been once covered bya barrow of earthorstones, a chamber tomb.Most quoitswere probably stones toppedbyacapstone,built on topof matic are thequoits,three ormore upright location of ancientburialsites. Themostdra- Most of thePenwith monumentsmarkthe Quoits &StandingStones one.they saw knewaneye-catchingcertainly locationwhen chitecture, –they butonething’sforcertain brandofachieve withtheir upstanding ar- lithic builders, orwhattheywere tryingto Little isknownabout thelives of Neo- these of constructionatStonehenge andAvebury. manypredatingest settlers, thefirst phases leftbehind byCornwall’searli- settlements are littered withquoits,tombsandancient monuments historic SITES West ANCIENT Penwith isastonishinglyrich with PENWITH’S daily on Saturday. Just onceperdayMondaytoFridayandtwice andSt along thecoastfromStIves toZennor whilethe344AtravelsSt Ives viaZennor, Penzance themoorlandbetween crosses and Bus 343(five dailyMondaytoSaturday) Getting There&Away £40/70). (singles/doubles converted toprovide, fresh, modernrooms spotlessly hasbeen door the‘White House’ refreshing lackof commercialclutter. Next requisite slate roof, roaringfireplaces anda example of anoldCornish inn,withthe favouriteLawrence’s drinkingdenisafine but coastandmoorlandfor miles around. niture andgranite-slab fireplaces, andnothing Tregeraint House Tregeraint Tinner’s Arms ThisCornish cottage, justwest

( WESTCORNWALL••Penwith’s AncientSites % . Thearea’s granite hilltops

792697; lunchesfrom£7-10) ( % 797061; sueewilson@yahoo Lanyon Quoit , between , between DH pre- curiously curvy curiously curvy Maidens they’re stillhugely atmospheric. The scaleasStonehenge andAvebury,same but Cornwall’s stone circles aren’t quite on the Circles Stone familiar allthesame. two-up, two-down,perhaps,butstill eerily livestock andgrew arablecrops.Not quite the smallgardenswhere theresidents kept togrindcorn,andyouwander around used thestone hearths andplatforms can stillsee ofyou areal IronAge sense daily life –you it’s aremarkably domesticplacethatgives each withitsowncentralcourtyard, houses, Consistingof stone-walled in Britain. eight ancientsettlements of thebest-preserved Jul &Aug, 10am-5pmApr-Jun 10am-4pmOct) &Sep, ( all are at theIronAge village of north pier. projects, includingthebuilding of Penzance’s of thestonewasplundered forconstruction butmuchcentury thewallsstood4.5mhigh, oftery and evidence tinsmelting.Inthe18th of prehistoric relics includingweapons,pot- tress, butarchaeologists have foundallkinds are allthatremains of for- thisonce-mighty stonesmarkingtheoldgateway two upright mile eastof ChûnQuoit.Apileof rubbleand the roadpastMên-an-tol,andliesabouta ancient hillforts. The area isalsodotted withtheremains of Settlements & Hillforts map tofindit. anOS of need start thetrack,soyou might B3306, butthere are nosignsmarkingthe Madrona backroadbetween andthecoastal fies. TheMên-an-tolisa15-minute walkfrom whatthisstrangehas thefoggiest stonesigni- or cure youof rickets, butthetruthisno-one thestonewilleithergetthrough youpregnant low stone. Locallegend states thatsqueezing sisting of menhirs twoupright flankingahol- aweirdformationcon- for stone-of-the-hole), hillfort; Chûn Castle below Treen andNewMill) collapsed and nearby other quoitsinthearea, including re-erected nineyears later. There are several % Five miles southeast from Morvah isthe Five milessoutheastfromMorvah Perhaps themostatmosphericruinsof 07831 757934;adult/child£2.40/1.20; , a ring of 19 stones near Lamorna, are, aringof 19stones near Lamorna, Mulfra Quoit Mulfra Sperris Quoit Sperris Mên-an-tol Chûn Castle Chûn Castle (off the road between (off theroadbetween , aswell Chûn Quoit (from theCornish ). i sgpse from signposted is

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CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL flock-heavy B&B,amile southof StJust,but Mine, which closed in 1875). Below thecape in1875).Below Mine, which closed (thelastremainsstack of Cornwall theCape headland toppedbyanabandoned chimney the coast-view rooms are still reasonably d £54-60; Valley. Cot The hostel isamilesouthof StJustinthe and there’s campingandcyclestorage outside. four-bed roomsare goodvalueforfamilies, ers onthecoastpath.Thesmallish three- or makes forbackpackers agoodbase andhik- End,but toStJustthanLand’s hostel iscloser .org.uk; dm£18; entertain the kids. and aresident donkey andShetland ponyto Facilities include alaundry,shop, tennis table and caravans, plusabunkbarnandchalets. sheltered campgroundoffers sites fortents sitesfrom£10) francis&wendykelynackholidays.co.uk; Park &Camping Caravan Kelynack Eating & Sleeping Cornwall. West one of thefirst Christianchapels builtin are theruinsof is therockybeach of from StJustis there. performed and outdoorconcertsare stillsometimes popular forlunchtime plays picnics,although and Cornish wrestling. daysit’smore These theatre, mystery plays,Methodist sermons tostage outdoor air auditoriumonceused parish church andthe Sq, ringed bygrey granite buildings,thesmall munity. AllroadsleadtothecentralMarket still alively hubforPenwith’s artisticcom- the heydayof Cornish tin-mining,butit’s not bequite thehive of activityitwasduring The stern of granite settlement St Justmight % JUST ST derives fromtheCornishword of theMên-an-Tol, tune onaSunday.There’s asimilarcircleeast fateearned thesame fordaringtotootlea a Sunday.Nearbyare thetwin of localladiesturnedtostonefordancingon thepetrifiedremainssupposedly of agroup 242 mên Jutting out from the cliffs acoupleof miles Jutting outfromthecliffs Bosavern House Bosavern Land’s EndYHA 01736 /pop4690 ) meaning stone. ETCRWL • S ut WEST CORNWALL••StJust p ) Thingsare notsorefined at this p Cape Cornwall Cape ) Despite itsname,thissmall

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Pipers ( % ; thename , anopen- 787633; , who (later This route along thecoastfrom St Ives. Just onceortwicedailyMondaytoFridayen isthe344Abus,which stopsinSt useful Less there’s also anhourly17BbusonSundays. once ortwicehourlyMondaytoSaturday); zance (40minutes) andStIves (1½hours, 17and17AtravelBuses StJust,Pen- between Getting There&Away stews are allprepared with loving care. chillis,menu, andthesandwiches, curriesand There’s alwaysadaily-changing souponthe smoothies, Fairtrade coffee andstickycakes. to thiswholefoodcaféforitshandmade h mugs madebya local potter. in aresarnies super,andthecoffee’s served of books.Thesoups,cakes secondhand and cooked foodrubsshoulders withahuge range bohemian hangout,where wonderfulhome- dinner from£8; décor. English are mirrored bybrassbedsteads andclassic tiledfireplaces, woodpanelling)staircase, countryside. Originalfeaturessecluded (oak surroundedby a smartwhitewashed house tleman’s residence turnedmodesthotel, in countryhotel.co.uk; dfrom£70; could dowitha contemporary revamp. kie andafternoon cream teas, buttherooms plus pointsincludethelocal-producebrek- priced andtheowners are very friendly.Other furniture. Nearbyare acouple of small shops including handmadejewellery anddriftwood the water. workbylocalartists, It nowsells tohaulfishingsive boatsfrom used capstan themas- circular building that oncehoused www.round-house.co.uk; -cove.com. are three handywebcamsat www.sennen isuptodownatthecove, there the surf) you wanttofindoutwhattheweather (or End.If hikepoint forthecoastal toLand’s sun-worshippers, andalsoagoodstarting with, popularwithswimmers, surfers and largest stretch of inWestPen- goldensand Bay, Whitesand CoveSennen boaststhe Nestled ontheedge of thehuge arcof % SENNEN The TegKegen Boscean CountryHotel Cookbook 9am-4.30pm Mon-Sat) 01736 /pop829 Round House & Capstan Gallery Round House&Capstan Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

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% Another 871859; rooms andapopularcream-tea cafébelow. 110; different from stripped- city–choose capital supplies and ice creams. and caféswhere youcanstockuponbeach lonelyplanet.com Land’s Endheadland anditsrollcallof rocks, Land’s their ownscenicthrills andspills. offor thecarpark(£3) andheadoff insearch tion on show called a cringeworthy semihistorical Rescueshow,asmall animalfarm, Air Sea in anironicsortof way–which includean ofseurs enjoythefive kitsch might exhibits– lure inthesummertimecrowds.Connois- h adult/child/family£9.95/5.95/21.95; .landsend-landmark.co.uk; Legendary Land’sExperience park isanyone’sguess,butnevertheless the themebe enhancedbybuildingatawdry Whysomeonefeltsea. theexperiencewould theIslesofcan glimpse Scilly, 28 milesoutto booming Atlanticsurf,andonacleardayyou and heather-covered headlandteeter above the get much more dramatic–blackgranite cliffs from John O’ Groats.Thescenerydoesn’t less charity walkers onthe874-mileslog mainland andthelastportof callforcount- End, themostwesterly pointontheBritish insula comestoascreeching stopat Land’s thePenwithA milefromWhitesandBay, Pen- END LAND’S £16.95). to experience. Meals are available (mains£10.95 for thatCherokee-meets-Cornish camping an 18-bed surflodge andacoupleof tepees rustic Nairobi. Forbudget travellers there’s back Washington,minimalistLondonor and Grill lifeboat crew. Roomsare available. the maindrinkingdenforlocalsandSennen’s more thanasandwich,andit’salso substantial s £31,d£88-96) in summer. Light sleepers beware. are very popular,andtend toget overcrowded Cove Sennen ( areCampers spoiltforchoice: try tage ited; thecosiest B&Bisrose-pink % Inland fromthecove, the Various trailswindtheir wayaroundthe The 17th-century are itself lim- optionsinSennen Sleeping 10am-5pm summer,till3pmwinter) p 871835; sites£13-15;

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( 871776; www.whitesandshotel.co.uk; r£75- The Last Labyrinth, % WESTCORNWALL••Land’sEnd 871588; h . Wiser headswill justpay . Wiser OldSuccessInn h Easter-Oct) (

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( Myrtle Cot- Myrtle % 871232; there’s a matinée. can wander aroundtheauditorium unless Mar) 10am-4pmNov- &Oct, 10am-5pm lateSep May–mid-Sep, afternoons except Wed&Fri 5.30pm dailyApr–mid-Sep, itor centre stage. centre theBritishweatherdecidesto takein case aficionados bringumbrellas andblankets forgettable place towatch aplay–although thrusting outover theAtlantic,it’sanun- andcircularamphitheatreinducing seating May tomid-September. Withitsvertigo- runningfrommid- venue withaseason later the Minackisafull-blown theatrical lit bybatteries 70years andcarheadlights; was performedin1932onarickety stage row. Thefirst productionof up fromthebeach inabattered wheelbar- carting much of andstone thewood,sand 30 years thetheatre developing byhand, passion forShakespeare, shespentthenext spired byclassical auditoriaandaburning the headlandfor£100in1920sand,in- eccentric, Rowena Cade. Englishand existsthankstooneindomitable above intothecliffs the beachwhich iscarved Theatre of Further eastisthesheltered wedge of sand Chapel the pretty coves of towards inajagged curve the coastlinesweeps End, From therugged promontoryof Land’s % PORTHCURNO 20 minutes, three dailyMay to October). travels End(onehour fromStIves toLand’s andtheMinack.Bus201 Newlyn, Mousehole longerurday) takes slightly andtravels via 345 (twodailyMondaytoFriday,oneonSat- Monday toSaturday,five onSunday).The to12 End(onehour,eight zance toLand’s 1/1A/101travelBuses theroute fromPen- Getting There&Away lars in case. of dolphinsor offshore;seals bringbinocu- colonies nearbyandtheoccasionalglimpse of wildlife-spotting, withplentyof sea- bird the including Above thetheatre there’s acaféand Originally fromDerbyshire, bought Cade Porthcurno 01736 that explores the Rowena Cade story; you thatexplores story;you theRowenaCade Armed Knight , bothaccessiblefromthecoastpath.

( % (adult/child under12yr£3.50/free; Dr Syntax’sHead 810181; www.minack.com; tickets from£8.50) tickets 810181; www.minack.com; andthegravity-defying . It’sagreat placeforabit Porthgwarra Porthgwarra , Dr Johnson’sHead The Tempest ad and h Minack Minack Porth Porth 9.30am- 243 vis- and

CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL telegraph oncethehubforanetwork station, underground tunnelsof theoldPorthcurno Museum lets or second homes).Despite itsproblemslets orsecond are as holiday houses Mousehole’s nowused home ownership thatover (it’s thought halfof getaway andanotorioushotspotforsecond- hasreinventedMousehole asa seaside itself fishing tradehasmoved eastto Newlyn, and hole (pronounced Lamorna chard fishermen, especiallyaround home tocommunitiesof mackerel andpil- ing grounds,andmostof thesmallinletswere years agothiswasoneof richest fish- Britain’s feels rooted inanothercentury.Ahundred Treenmote coastlinebetween and Mousehole andhiddencoves,With itsquietcliffs there- % MOUSEHOLE &NEWLYN Saturday) fromPenzance or St Just. 345 bus(twodailyMondaytoFriday,oneon day May toOctober), oryoucouldcatch the (12 to14MondaySaturday,fouronSun- Theatre. 1/1A/101stopatPorthcurno Buses signposts fromthemainroadforMinack 9 milesfromPenzance; followthebrown Endand Porthcurno is3milesfromLand’s Getting There&Away Lieutenant Goldsmithononeof the walls. a copyof theoriginalbillpresented toyoung Lookoutfor trinkets ontap. andwarmbeer acracklingcoalfire,ings, woodenseats, brassy classic Cornish snug–head-scraping ceil- kiddleywink, withalltheingredients fora an irresistible lemon drizzle cake). made cakes (includingapricotflapjacksand coffee andawickedLavazza range of home- nish fudge, biscuitsandbeach fare, aswell Easter-Oct) BeachCafé Porthcurno Eating edge speaking tubes. including mahoganytelephones andcutting- ploring thehistoryof telecommunications, someintriguingexhibitsex- houses museum daysthehalfway aroundtheglobe. These of subterranean telegraph cablesstretching 10am-5pmSun&MonNov-Mar) Sep, £4.50/2.50; 244 Behind thebeach, the Behind Logan RockInn 01736 /pop4075 ETCRWL • Mueoe&Nwy WEST CORNWALL••Mousehole&Newlyn

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Logan RockInn( left Turk’s Head ( p258 Halzephron Inn( p249 Ferryboat Inn( p252 Pandora Inn( p263 The Mousehole Cat,

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(www.newlynfishfestival.org.uk) )hasafew of hisminor ) ) h ) ) ). , recently reopened ) Feb-Nov; Newlyn aswellthebest

( % , mls down miles 3 , p . Mousehole Mousehole . 363715; www ) Offers , at thebottomof anoldflowerfarm.Luxury unusual B&B,inasingle-roomtimbercabin trays and’70sbathroomsuites? Thentrythis .com; LoveLa;dwith2-nightminimum£55) from Mousehole. Mousehole. from inthevillage offarmhouse Paul, justuphill lonelyplanet.com bour town of Penzance. Stretching along on thebreeze aroundthe elegantoldhar- the waterways andthere’s ascent of brine overhead,Gulls wheel fishing trawlers ply % PENZANCE hour day toSaturday,every on Sunday). from Penzance Mon- (20minutes, half-hourly headache. real the narrowstreets summercanbea inhigh park outsidethevillage, asdrivingthrough If you’re it’sbestto driving toMousehole, Getting There&Away p48 text, theboxedto tuckintosomestargazy pie(see cember, whentheShip’s thetraditionalplace of It’sespeciallypopularinDe- Mousehole. £6 to£10)isthisvenerable innintheheart so yourbestbetforapintandpie(mains pubs aroundNewlynare ontherowdyside, Classy. motifs. chintz infavour of muted colours andwicker tial. Upstairs thethree roomschuck outthe areis often essen- crammedsoreservations butthepocket-sizedfantastic, diningroom (mains £12.50to£18.95)isfresh, localand verted pilchard-processing factory.Thefood inatinycon- secret,well-kept housed seafood www.cornishrange.com; d£100) gleaming floors andwindowsover the sea. back simplicity–blindingwhite tablecloths, ant (three-course menu£39)isallstripped- characterise thebedrooms,whilerestaur- colours checksGingham andsoothingsea lodge andaseparate downbythewater.house posh, pretty themain roomsdividedbetween atthisswishchic hotel, hitsMousehole with guardhotel.co.uk; s£60,d£110-170; brekkie inbedis fast arrives morninginahamper,so every wooden verandah tipple. foratwilight Break- it ain’t,butit’spacked withcharm plusalittle The quickest is the6/6A bustoMousehole Ship Inn withRooms Restaurant Cornish Range Hotel Old Coastguard Old Flowershed 01736 /pop21,168 ).

( % 731234; SouthCliff;s/d£40/65) WESTCORNWALL••Penzance

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731488; The and thesurroundingarea. access. Next tothe Next bus station. tion Approach; h medical anaesthetic. He alsopennedreams of ofuse nitrous oxide gas) asa (orlaughing vention of theminer’ssafety lampand the sodiumandstrontium),thein- potassium, discovery of sixnew elements (including tonishing numberof scientificadvances:the fisherman. Davy wasresponsible for anas- andfanaticaltroutsopher’, amateur poet ‘chemical(1778–1829), thepioneering philo- Penzance’s mostfamousson, asa John Lavin, geological museum. originally builtforawealthymineralogist, andanEgyptian andwas house sarcophagus like abizarre aGeorgian cross town between the extraordinary St;lookoutfor along ChapelStandQueen harbour. Thebestexamplescanbeseen whooncepliedtheirtradeoutoftains the were cap- builtforthemerchants andsea town’s Georgian andRegency townhouses the import-exporttrade,andmostof the Penzance’s wealthwasfounded largely on As withTruroandFalmouth furthereast, Sights www.penzance.co.uk office Tourist Post office Polyclean Laundrette Library End andthe Penwith Peninsula. also anideallaunch padforexploringLand’s Cornwall’s daintiertownslostlongago. It’s kind of rough-edged authenticitymanyof for over-gentrification andstillboaststhe Penzance tohave seems resisted theurge like manyof itssister townsupthecoast, chains andcorporate shopfronts;butun- bytheusualsmattering ofoffset high-street daysthetown’sfinearchitecturethese is grandeur aroundPenzance’s streets, though rest of Cornwall.There’s anairof faded town stillfeels onestep removed fromthe sincethe1860s,and Western Railway has marked theendof thelineforGreat the western edge of Penzance Mount’sBay, h Information At thetopof Market Jew to Stisastatue 7.30am-7.30pm) 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-12.30pmSat) 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, ( % ( % 363954; MorrabRd;perhr£3) Internet h ( % 362464; 113 Market Jew St; Jew 362464; 113Market 9am-5pm Mon-Sat,10am-1pmSun) 362207; [email protected]; Sta- Egyptian House Egyptian UsefullocalguidetoPenzance ( % 364815; 4EastTce; Humphry Davy , which looks 245

CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL www.penleehouse.org.uk; MorrabRd;adult/child£3/free, b warm. be summer – justdon’texpect thewater to open toalfresco bathers the throughout spruced-up andisnow thoroughly it’s been lido. Sincefallingintodisrepair inthe 1980s, h (www.jubileepool.co.uk; adult/child/family£3.85/2.75/12.20; New Rd.Attheeastern endisthe theSouthPierand wall between along thesea dens are alsoworth a stroll. temporary work.Thelovely landscapedgar- in2006),alongsidemorethe museum con- 1922 work Forbes,whose Schools (includingStanhope ings byartistsof theNewlyn and Lamorna Mon-Sat Oct-Apr) free Sat; interested Coleridge isa moot point. ready supplyof chemical narcoticsthatmost whether itwasDavy’s amateur verse orhis including Samuel Taylor Coleridge, although 19th century’sbest-knownRomanticwriters, andbefriendedsomeofamateur poetry the 246 PENZANCE Penzance’s 19th-century &Museum Penlee HouseGallery

11am-7pm May-Sep)

Acorn ArtsCentre...... C Statue ofHumphreyDavy... ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Penlee HouseGallery& D1 Polyclean Laundrette...... Blue Snappa...... Archie Brown's...... Abbey Restaurant...... (see8) Summer House...... Penzance Backpackers...... Glencree House...... Chy-an-Mor...... Camilla House...... Abbey Hotel...... Egyptian House...... Renaissance Café...... Lime Tree...... Harris' Restaurant...... Bar Coco's...... Museum...... Jubilee Pool...... Tourist Office...... Library...... Turk's Head...... Dunedin......

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Comfy, simplyfurnished roomsontheB&B Camilla House goes tothisreliable goes guest- House Camilla the wallet-friendly andtheslap-up pricetag the uninspiringinterior, it’sworthalookfor view.Despite ing acouplewithmodestsea fashioned rooms,mostwithbathroom,includ- a great budget old- B&B,offering slightly eight .co.uk; Rd;r£40-50dependingonseason) 2Mennaye Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com h Archie Brown’s Eating booklined lounge. and thespacioussuite complete withitsown Room 4,withitscupboard-cum-bathroom, layout–ourfavouriteshiggledy-piggledy are the roomshave styleand theirown offbeat and awarren of wood-floored corridors. All favour of burnished antiques,vintage rugs a stunner,shunningmodish minimalismin turnedheritage hotel is house sea-captain’s line.co.uk; AbbeySt;d£130-180) with alfresco terrace. downstairs there’s aMediterranean restaurant colours characterise thefive bedrooms,and of Checks,pinstripesandcheery theseaside. hotel mixing Knightsbridge chic withhints lovinglybut it’sbeen converted intoastylish near thepromenadewasanartist’shideaway, pn wall.com; CornwallTce;s£85,d£95-120; thedeal. helpful owners seal bathrobes,pillowtreatsFluffy andsupremely will plumpforonewithaviewover theprom. are butmostpeople ‘Classic’ or‘Standard’, consciousstance. Rooms and environmentally outforitsclassyrooms,periodfeaturesstands better-than-average House B&Bs,Camilla co.uk; Tce;d£70-75; 12Regent location. sidering fortheseafront furnishings, butworthcon- and off-the-shelf decked shadeshouse, outinstandard-issue p of free wi-fi. ofghetto AlexandraRd,withtheaddedbonus Dunedin MIDRANGE &TOPEND fruit teas, cafetière coffee and veggie options. breakfast, which includessmoked kippers, Glencree House Glencree o Summer House House Camilla Chy-an-Mor 9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat) ) Second billingonRegent Tcebehind Second ) ThiselegantPenzance townhouse

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( 363771; www.camillahouse. % 362026; www.glencreehouse pi 366906; www.theabbeyon This 17th-century ) In aterrace of h WESTCORNWALL••Penzance closed Nov-Mar; closed Nov-Mar; Thisis i

) Apr-Aug, dinner Wed-Sun plus lunch Fri & Sat Oct-Mar) & SatOct-Mar) Apr-Aug, dinnerWed-SunpluslunchFri 2/3 coursemenu£19/23; It’s notcheap, buttucking intoyourroast itifs inthe crimson-walled bardownstairs. andaper-dining room,and nibbles, cocktails consistently fabulousfoodin thelight-filled by top-qualityproduce, theAbbey turns out the AAandMichelin guides.Underpinned notleastfromthe boffins at praise, serious cutting-edge garnering Britishbistrohasbeen ing room. dishes inthescarlet-tinted, napkin-laceddin- uplocalgameandfish sic French, serving on butthemenuatHarris’ isstillmostlyclas- strong after 30-oddyears. Times have moved original fine-diningrestaurant isstillgoing £16-20; lunchMon,&dinnerTue-Sat) brûlée down byhomemadebread andvanilla bass andJohn Doryfilletformains,chased for global cuisine. Cornish duckbreast, sea your friendisagourmetchef withapassion –assuming having supperatafriend’shouse phere, diningattheLimeTree feels like andcosyfront-roomatmos- setting house h crowd. with paid-upmembers of Penzance’s arty a late-night barisasgoodforamorninglatte asfor tapas southern SpaintoChapelSt,thispopular from £8; Thai stir-fry orjustsinkafew coldbrews. where youcantuckintoagourmetburger or buzzy atmosphere atthissurfybar-brasserie 10.30am-5pm Sun) 11.50; late-night musicatweekends. with more-substantial and mainsbynight feature, andsalads ciabattas Club sandwiches, Shopping overlooking Centre Mount’sBay. temporary café,hiddenawayintheWharfside floor-to-ceilingthrough windowsatthiscon- Centre; mains£5-12; wholegrains intheground-floor shop. vegetarian smorgasbord of and lentils,pulses filling eatsinthesunny1st-floor café,plusa wholefoodcafé,withcheap,longstanding nies andheartysoupstake topbillingatthis Harris’ Restaurant Harris’ Lime Tree Abbey Restaurant Bar Coco’s Blue Snappa Café Renaissance lunch &dinnerTue-Sat) h . h 9.30am-11pm Mon-Thu, &Sat, 9.30am-1amFri closed Sun)

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This 247 CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL tre.co.uk; Parade St) tre, comedyandlive bandsinitsunusual hosts avariedprogrammeof film,thea- home of since1954 theStAubyns, although andisnow the family a fortified stronghold as the site in1135.Themountlater served anewchapelin Normandy,who raised on monksof Mont StMichel to theBenedictine the Normanconquest,islandwas given of Icstisreferenced byclassicalauthors. After theisle and copper,it’salmostcertainly longbeforeused asatradingportfortin the 5thcentury,butmountwas being there’s amonastery here been sinceatleast that’ssubmergedcauseway bytherisingtide, Connected tothemainlandbyacobbled Nov) Jul- &Jun,10.30am-5.30pmThuFri May 5.30pm Mon-Fri &Nov,gardens10.30am- 10.30am-5pmApr,Oct May-Sep, adult/child £6.40/3.20; Mount islandabbey ofthe craggy-cliffed Looming upfromthewaters of Mount’s Bay, MOUNT MICHAEL’S ST utes, hourly)via St Erth. line fromPenzance toStIves (£4.80,20min- frequent trainsonthelovely coast-hugging hours, to10daily)viaTruro. eight There are line fromLondonPaddington (£117,six catch aNational Express coach. (hourly MondaytoSaturday),oryoucould toTruro The 18/X18isthequickest service andTreen. via Newlyn,Porthcurno,Sennen twelve MondaytoSaturday,five onSunday) to End(onehour,eight No 1/1AtoLand’s hourly) viaMarazion andHayle, andthe 301 toStIves (onehour10minutes, atleast the Penzance bylocalbuses: iswell-served Getting There&Away auditorium. twin-tiered loved) watering hole. the atmosphere of (andmuch- awell-used patchy carpetsandabattered barjustaddto a personal favourite. walls, Tobacco-stained Head –purportedly thetown’soldestpub–is short of aboozer ortwo,buttheoldTurk’s Turk’s Head Entertainment & Drinking it’s money well spent. monkfish orhotchocolate you’llfeel soufflé, 248 Acorn Arts Centre Acorn Arts Penzance isthelaststoponmaintrain isoneof Cornwall’siconiclandmarks. ETCRWL • S ihe’ on Mount WEST CORNWALL••StMichael’s

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Michael’s Michael’s dating fromthe18th-century,some bizarre sula still has a wild, untamed edge.sula stillhasawild,untamed TheLizard ill-famed graveyard forships, andthepenin- of Cornwall’s communityandan smuggling theLizardwasonceheartland ous seas, by theRiver Helford andringed bytreacher- tooth rocks.Cutoff fromtherest of Cornwall of churning ink-black surfandsaw- cliffs, open fieldsandflatheaths plunge intoamelee wild turnaroundthe Lizard Peninsula, where Cornwall’s southerncoastlinetakes asudden LIZARD THE precariously above the cliffs. the island’sedge, sub-tropicalgardenshover ditty, notthe hunting Room(namedafter amedieval Chase friezes andornate plasterwork of theChevy library, theislandgarrisonandhunting the rococoBlueDrawingRoom,ornate there’salabaster panelsisahighlight; also windowand15th-century its wonderfulrose the Georgian era. Thetinyislandchapel with chitectural stylesfromthelate MiddleAges to which spansthespectrumofcastle itself, ar- harbour, it’salung-busting climbuptothe razion atothertimes.Fromtheisland’sstone you canhopaboardaferry (£1)fromMa- although tide viathestone-toppedcauseway, the National Trust. underthestewardship ofthe islandhasbeen of of boxing. heavyweight heavyweight and light titles formiddleweight, first holdtheworld mantosimultaneously display onlocalheroBob Fitzsimmons,the Victorian fire-fighting contraptionsanda text, p250 theboxedground onthefurrydance(see the town’sformerbutter market, hasback- supplies. Theeccentric now thepeninsula’smainplacetostockupon a bustlingriver town,and portandStannary The onlytownontheLizardis Helston, once % Around & Helston wildest cornerat www.theliz ard.co.uk. this isdefinitely the place. drinkintheviewsorescaperatrace, cliffs, if you’re looking forsomewhere the tostalk Cornwall’ssecret corner,and has longbeen Three milessouthwestof Helston istheport The bestwaytoreach thecastleisatlow Get theregionalGet low-downonCornwall’s Porthleven 01326 /pop9780 ),aswella5-tonneciderpress , where thestout double-walled National Lampoon Folk Museum lonelyplanet.com star). Around star). , housed in , housed maker Henry Trengrouse hislife todevote inspiredtraumatic event thelocalcabinet- which in1807.This foundered Bar on Loe recovered fromthewreck of theHMS harbour iscrownedbyabraceof cannons Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com all named after local beaches, butthemain nishings characterise the three guestrooms, furniturefarmhouse-style and simplefur- country manorjust outsideHelston. The inasquat,17th-century itional guesthouse .co.uk; Sithney,Helston;s/d£35/60; rooms ifyoucanforthe harbour outlook. of restaurants one of andpubs.Bag thefront Harbourwalk fromPorthleven anditsbevy it’s aptlynamed;thissimplehotel isashort inCornish,means ‘soundof and thesea’ rfrom£50) .com; Peverall Tce,Porthleven; andessential with skylight scenes. sea pick of thebunch istheatticroomcomplete inPorthleven; house end-of-terrace pleasant s/d£25/50) Porthleven; Greystones SLEEPING along just in case. detector wanttobringthatoldmetal might dunes,soyou gold hoardintheGunwalloe buriedafabulous supposedly Long Ben, the swashbuckling pirate John Avery, alias legends of buriedtreasure – atGunwalloe There inthesand. are several half-buried titchy 15th-centuryChurch of StWinwaloe and better off headingsouthto strong tides,soifyoufancyadipyou’re isdangerous Bar duetothe ming off Loe way aroundthelake banks,buttheswim- p276 (a claimhotlycontested byDozmaryPool; moured to have returned been tothewater wasru- King Arthur’smagicbladeExcalibur lake andthesaltwater Bar of you don’tknowwhat you’re doing. up getting acquainted withtheharbourwallif hard-core boarders only–you’llprobably end it’sdefinitely for andtheBeast’, ‘The Beauty reefright-hand break. Colloquiallyknownas is alsorenowned amongBritish surfers forits ing rocket-propelled rescue line. Porthleven powered ‘Bosun’sChair’andalsoapioneer- among hisfineinventions were thewinch- to inventing more effective life-saving tools; Tregathenan House Tregathenan An MordrosHotel A milesouthistheshinglybankof Loe Gunwalloe Cove ). Several woodland walks windtheir ).Several

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£80 a double. meets Maorimeets atthisrustic-chic converted lunch Thu-Sat&dinnerTue-Sat inwinter) mains£10.95-21; leven; Gweek Gweek twice daily. 15 daily Monday toSaturday), stoppingat (25 minutes) andStKeverne (40 minutes, ston toGoonhilly (20minutes), Coverack busistheT2, which runsfromHel-useful from theTesco carpark in Helston. nections totheLizardvillage, catch busT34 Saturday, five onSunday); foronwardcon- ston (50minutes, atleasthourlyMondayto nian.co.uk) by served hubisHelston,The Lizard’stransportation THERE&AWAYGETTING menu (£12). 6pm and7pmforthecut-pricetwo-course and smoked chilli soup.Pitch upbetween potatoThai-spiced crab bisque orsweet bay scallopswithasoy-corianderdressing, vours withCornishingredients –Falmouth mill, where thefoodblendsPacific Rimfla- exploring thenearby coast path. days it’saperfect boltholeafter adayspent gling historyandopera-singer owner;these It isknownforitssuperiorfood,rich smug- whitewashed above alehouse Cove. Gunwalloe 15.10; Cornwall’s finest drinking dens. and atraditionalskittlealleyadduptooneof stone floors, woodenbeams,roaringhearths thevats).Flag- Spingo ale(askatthebartosee punters, mainlythankstoitshome-brewed this wonderfuloldinnisstillpackinginthe from £8) Blue Anchor DRINKING & EATING the pay through for.nose with thekindof viewyou’dnormally coastal cream, andmostroomshave baywindows andtasteful tonesof chocolate, slateTVs and renovatedian villahasbeen withflat-screen Builtforalocalartist,theVictor-Porthleven. in 2hectares of groundsabove private clifftop d£75-95; Crag, Porthleven; setting. country attraction here istheridiculouslytranquil For getting aroundtheLizard, most o Inn Halzephron Beacon Crag p Six centuriesof beer-brewing later and ) . BusT1runsfromTrurotoHel- Nooks andcranniesabound atthis Kota

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249 CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL of aswitch 400milesaway in Essex. in the’90s, andisnowcontrolled bytheflick theLizardwasautomated wall’s lighthouses, century mile-long walkto LizardPointandthe18th- most peopleparkinthevillage andmake the makes apretty gateway, so disappointing and tobaskin the clifftops the scenery. divers, walkers aswellcoastal whoflockto it’s ameccafortreasure hunters andscuba wrecksCornish fishingsmacks;withallthose treasure galleonsandtransporttankers totiny on thepeninsula’srockyshores, fromSpanish HundredsBritain. of vessels have cometogrief ous asoneof areas themostdeadly coastal in of LizardPoint,notori- cliffs sea-pummelled reaches its southernmostfringe aroundthe Cove andswimmable surfat sand cerning beach lovers willheadforthesofter boats andagranite-walled harbour,butdis- is of thepeninsula’sprettiest coves. Amilesouth village of Tucked awayonthe Lizard’s westsideisthe % costs£16/6/4for buses a family/adult/child. minutes). 10 Farm (onehour)andCoverack (onehour low (50minutes), StKeverne andRoskilly’s minutes), Manaccan (40minutes), Porthal- coast viaMawgan (20minutes), Helford (35 to Saturday)travels fromHelston aroundthe 250 Lzr Pit Around & Point Lizard Mullion Cove Mullion The T3 Lizard Rambler (twodailyMonday The T3LizardRambler With itsconglomerationof fudge sellers Five milessouthfromMullion,Britain A DayRover ticket valid onallTruronian for promoting ‘drunken revelry’.for promoting‘drunken Victorians tookadimviewoftheproceedings,andfestival wasbannedinthe19thcentury the entire pintorsix.Unsurprisingly,the towndescendsonthelocalpubsforahard-earned only, andthedanceisalwaysledbyalocalcouple. The finaldanceofthedayisat5pm,before byinvitation part take offatnoonandproceedsaroundthetown’sstreets; participants kicks pageant andachildren’s dance. The mainhighlightofthedayisformalFurry Dance,which byseveralitself ismarked stately dances;thefirstisat7am,followedbylively Hal-An-Tow finery andthetowniscovered inblossomscollected fromthe surroundingcountryside. The day mixture ofstreet dance,musicalparadeandfloralpageant.Localresidents dress upintraditional thecomingofspring,thisancientfestivalremnant ofapagancelebrationmarking isapeculiar Helston isfamousforitsannual FLING FURRY CORNWALL’S 01326 amileto the north. pisky ETCRWL • TeLzr WEST CORNWALL••TheLizard Lizard Lighthouse Mullion (pixie)stores, Lizardvillage itself , hometoacluster of fishing , handilyplonked nearthree . Like nearlyallCorn- Polurrian Flora Day or Poldhu , held

and abraceof beach shops.Acrossthe pe- rockpools seaweed-stocked with goodsand, is ing thewaters onawarm summer day. catch of even sight might agigboatortwoply- huddle atthefootof alung-straininghill.You to Housel Bay plore coastal beaches oftrails tothesecluded or Cornish chough. Energetic typescanex- visited by the oddinquisitive dolphin seal, rolling infromtheAtlantic,andsometimes shingly cove, poundedbyendlesswhite surf and a lifeboat station down tothedisused location are points,while families theselling grace and style. Garden viewsandthe country by ArthurConan Doyleandconverted with historic Mullion vicarage, oncefrequented s/d£41.50/73) .com; Mullion; on lighthouse Lizard Point. a renovated Victorianhotel belowthe right joyed bythisgloriouslysituated hostel, in viewen- boast thekindof sea spectacular .uk; dm£15.50; Lizard YHAHostel SLEEPING wiches and cream teas. its ecofriendly leads downfromthecarparktocove and Victorian knick-knackmakers. trail Asteep the red-green rockfavoured serpentine by sourceofheadland, andonceanimportant andflower-coveredunder toweringcliffs Cove ninsula istheNationalTrustbeach of of andfishermen’scottages thatched houses every yearon8May.Believed tobethelast Kennack Sands Kennack Old Vicarage Cadgwith The mostpopularbeach nearLizardPoint Below the lighthouse, a rough trackleads arough thelighthouse, Below

(NT; % and , where achocolate-box collection Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 561407; [email protected]) h

Apr-Oct) Apr-Oct) tearoom Church Cove , go fml pdln spot paddling family good a , (

% ( % 240898; bandbmullion@hotmail 0870 7706120;[email protected] Few top-endhotels can Top-notch roomsina , idealforcakes, sand- , orventure north tucked Kynance .com; TheLizard;d£64-136; manor wasconstructed byagroupof Vic- bathrooms. spacious will appreciate thegood-sizedroomsand Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com pasties using onlytraditional ingredients. local lady AnnMuller,churns outhandmade pasty-maker, thistraditional bakery, runby h Thursday andFridaylunch on Sunday. menu £22.50),openfordinner Tuesday, runs adinkynext-doorbistro(three-course delicacies (chutneys, jams,bickies).Italso This miniature deliischock-full of Cornish Rodda’s Cornish Clotted Cream. able plusfudge andshortbread lacedwith village. Boxes of are choccies andtruffles avail- maker isopposite theturn-off toMullion late.co.uk; Mullion) Chocolate Trenance EATING betooprecioussmart, butmight for some. and atoddlers’ playroom).It’sundeniably (including tennis, football,Playstations table suites andkid-friendly facilities self-catering Cove, offering 39poshlyfurnished bedrooms, this Edwardianpileperched above Polurrian r£160-206; Mullion; meal fromyourownprivate chef. Wow. drawingroom,ororder afour-coursestuffed back intheheated pool,lounge intheantique- country chic kick withmetropolitan-style; tory sitsin0.8hectares of groundsandmixes slice of real Lizardluxury,thisrestored rec- .uniquehomestays.com; ChurchCove;d£100-150; ask forabetter location. seafront décor’s flouncyandfaded,butyoucouldn’t suites’ to‘superiorplus’sea-view rooms;the lion Cove, thehotel haschoices from‘garden could bejusttheticket. Hovering over Mul- viewsandcomfyroomsyouwantthen it cliff ian mansionishardlycutting-edge, butifit’s Cove;r£79-120; .com; Mullion charming old-world atmosphere. withplentyofto stay, periodpiecesanda Acenturylaterhouse. it’sstillagorgeous place rooms they’dexpectfromaCornish country guests thesortof stirringviewsand luxurious torian entrepreneurs tooffer itsdiscerning Lizard Pasty Shop Colroger Creamery Hotel Polurrian Lanwednack House Hotel Cove Mullion Housel BayHotel Tue-Sat) RenownedasRick Stein’s favourite Cornwall’sbest-knownchoc- sp

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240083; www.polurrianhotel.com; 240083; www.polurrianhotel.com; % ( % Thingsare upmarket at p 290889; TheLizard;pasties £2-4; 01326 290417;www.houselbay ) 241499; www.trenancechoco ps 241007; Lender Lane,Mullion) 290877; www.landewednack 240328; www.mullioncove ) Thisgrandgabled ThisoldVictor- ) WESTCORNWALL••TheLizard sp A )

prints andnauticaltrinkets adornthewalls .org.uk; Coverack; dm £14; YHAHostel Coverack SLEEPING after Arthurian characters). reason theGoonhillydishes are allnamed of the site’s largest satellite dishes(forsome including thechance toclimbup‘Arthur’,one exhibits andoffers guidedtours of thesite, The multimediavisitorcentre hasinteractive hub forinternational telecommunications. first andstilltheUK’s main satellite stations, 10am-4pmTue-Sun Feb& Oct, &Mar) h 679593; www.goonhilly.bt.com;adult/child£6.75/4.75; ellite dishesof five mileswestof StKeverne are thevastsat- 5.30pm. to cows beingmilked dayfrom4.30pm every tearoom (see p252 and fruitjams.There’s anonsite shopand organic icecreams, yogurts,fudges, sorbets awardsforitslip-smacking scooped several cream maker andorganic farm,which has ( haven fortheLizard’s artistic community. mous hauntfor contraband, nowa smuggled arc-shaped harbourof Porthallow Cornish fishingports,including the nearbycoastlineisdotted withtypically fishermen formore thanfive centuries,and day-markforsailors and avital has been market towns.Thespire of theparishchurch pubs, St Keverne isoneof theLizard’soldest by stonecottages andabraceof smuggler’s market aroundasleepy Centred square ringed % St Keverne&Around (p249 section theHelstonFor bustransporttoLizard,see THERE&AWAYGETTING rooms start at £60. clubsandwiches,batteredsalads, cod).Double fine frontpatioandsuperiorpubfood(crab withasurfeitlion, blessed of Cornish ales,a of thisthatched 16th-centurypub in Mul- early tobesure of one.bagging togetThanks toMrStein you’llneed there % Just outsideStKeverne is Spread over thebarren GoonhillyDowns Old Inn 10am-6pm late May-Sep, 10am-5pm Apr-late May, Sep Sep 10am-5pmApr-lateMay, 10am-6pm lateMay-Sep, 01326 /pop2107 280479; www.roskillys.co.uk; 280479; www.roskillys.co.uk;

( % (locallypronounced 240240; Mullion; mains£6-12) 240240; Mullion; ). Goonhilly Earth Station Goonhilly Earth

( ),andyoucanwatch the % h 0870 7705780; coverack@yha Coverack Mar-Oct) h , oneof theworld’s 10am-6pm) Great hostel Roskilly’s Farm Roskilly’s , onceaninfa- pralla Porthoustock Sporting , anice-

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, CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL motorboats (£50/80/100per twohours/four Hotel ( p261 Trebah, Glendurgan andtheBudockVean to Sunday)thatruns fromHelford village to Garden Ferry (10.30amto 4.30pm Tuesday Helford Passage andHelford village, anda April toOctober) thatcrosstheriver between -boats.co.uk) riversidefantastic pubs. oyster fisheryatPorthNavas andacoupleof both banksof theriver, aswellatraditional lage the riverbanks, especiallyaround and palatialcountrygetaways sprinkledalong exclusive mansions postcodes,withrock-star days theHelford isoneof Cornwall’smost pock theriver’s shingle-strewn banks.These man’s Creek Maurier, whonamedherclassicnovel thanks totheliterary invention of Daphne du with Cornwall’s fraternity,smuggling largely Peninsula. It’sfamousforitshistoricallinks feels farremoved fromtherest of theLizard ing oaksandhiddencreeks, theRiver Helford along atranquilestuarylinedwithoverhang- Flowing alongthenorthernedge of theLizard % Helford The harbour. Coverack and endearinglychaotic above setting upclassicfishdishesinacramped serving from £8; orange and mascarpone. creams, includinghokey-pokey crunch and all onoffer, of plusaselection over 50ice andpizzasarepasties, pies,soups,casseroles tothemilkinyourtea.sandwich Homemade fromthefarm,haminyour straight sourced hasbeen onthetable everything ly’s isatrulylocaloperation–practically 6pm) Croust House EATING like a bona-fide Blackfoot. and youbeddowninoneof thehostel’s tepees there’s spaceoutsideforcampingandBBQs, dorms. Itfeels crampedwhenit’sfull,but and arranged inthree-, four- andeight-bed splitover andbright, light acoupleof floors the hillsideabove Coverack. Theroomsare inside aconverted gentleman’s residence on 252 Old LifeboatHouse Helford River Boats Helford River 01326 . There are lotsof littlecoves toexplore on The farmrestaurant-tearooms atRoskil- ETCRWL • TeLzr WEST CORNWALL••TheLizard h run passenger ferries runpassenger (10amto6pm dinner)

( % )onrequest. You canalsohire after oneof themanyinletsthat Alovely diner littleseafood 280479; www.roskillys.co.uk; 280479; www.roskillys.co.uk;

( % ( % 250770; www.helford-river 280899; Coverack;mains Helford vil- h French- 10am- £5-15) jungle ferns liningthesidesof ravine asteep giant rhododendrons, massive gunneraand and atouch wilderthanGlendurgan, with Fox, Alfred’s younger brother. It’slessformal 6.30pm, lastentry5pm) £3Nov-Feb;.co.uk; admission£6.50Mar-Oct, Durgan beach near mazeandasecluded ornamental ing viewsof theRiver Helford, aswellan tropical valley,thegardenoffers breathtak- puzzle trees. Tumblingdownastunningsub- tree ferns andChileanmonkeyNew Zealand maples, Canadian through and Indiaright drons, magnoliasandcamelliasfromNepal far corners of theempire, fromrhododen- backfromthe wonderful plantsbeingbrought specifically designedtoshow theweirdand off byAlfredestablished Fox inthe1820sItwas of thefirst great Cornishpleasure gardens, sion £5; (NT; exotic plantsfromtheNewWorld. family, whomadetheirfortuneimporting durgan, bothfoundedbymembers of theFox neighbouring estates of Trebah andGlen- Across thewater fromTrelowarren are the TREBAH &GLENDURGANGARDENS (£20/30/50). hours/day), rowboats(£30/50/70),andkayaks lively crowdtucking intobeer-battered fishor thecreeksidenights patioispacked with a locals andvisiting yachties. Onsummer Ferryboat Inn PUBS before returning themtothewild. washedupalongtheCornish coastline seals Oct-Apr) adult/child £10.95/6.95; Sanctuary Seal intooverdrive‘ahh’ factorgoes atthe Further westalongtheriver the nearGweek, SANCTUARY SEAL NATIONAL makes AlanTitchmarsh looktame. via amegaphoneandtelescope. Certainly barking outhisorders fromanatticwindow to indicateof theheight each individual tree, made hisheadgardenerconstructascaffold accordingtothestory,he stickler fordetail; was acelebrated polymathandanotorious leading downtoashingle beach. CharlesFox Just westis % Thisriverfront pubisanoldfave with , which cares forsickandorphaned h village. 250906; [email protected]; admis- 10.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sat Feb-Oct)

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Trebah Trebah ( % 01326-250625; HelfordPassage; mains , planted in1840byCharles 221361; www.sealsanctuary.co.uk; 221361; www.sealsanctuary.co.uk; h (

% 10am-5pm May-Sep, 9am-4pm 10am-5pm May-Sep, 250448; www.trebahgarden lonelyplanet.com h wasone Glendurgan Glendurgan National 10.30am-

from £8) tages available the tourist of- –contact Sunday lunch infrontof aroaringlogfire. pub,perfect smuggler’s the quintessential for triple-decker Inwinter clubsandwiches. it’s lonelyplanet.com fice forfull listings,orcall months. busiest are these even often booked up during the Tresco, have abasiccampingarea, but tricky.Alltheislands,exceptof season in winter, which canmake visitingout simplyshut downwhile manybusinesses and hotels are fullybooked ahead, weeks tember, whenyou’llfindmostof theB&Bs Peak onScillyisfromMay season toSep- that chopper anytimesoon. –justdon’texpecttogetdisappoint backon water you’re won’t looking for,Scillycertainly walks,emptybeachessolitary orclear,cool to justafew Whetherit’s hardycastaways. Bryher, StMartin’s andStAgnes are home tropolis, whilethesmallerislandsof Tresco, of theislands’visitors, ishardlyabustlingme- St Mary’s, which welcomesthevastmajority weather andthetide. Even themainislandof behind andlife bythewhimsof isdictated the accumulated humof theoutsideworldisleft breaking on theshore; it’saplacewhere the the screech andthecrash of of seagulls waves Scilly thenearest pollutionis thingtonoise islands, onlyfive of which are inhabited. On foot onthisminiature archipelago of 140tiny like memoryassoonyouset adistant seem ing telephones andsummertimeroadworks England acenturyago. trill- Rush-hourtraffic, offer ataste of whatlife musthave like been in End,the southwest of Land’s Isles of Scilly Sprinkled acrosstheAtlanticOcean28miles % SCILLY OF ISLES totheHelfordFor buses Helston see ( p249 THERE&AWAYGETTING where youcandineoutontheview. ontheblackboardsalads andrickety tables There are real crab andlobster alesontap, another classicplacetodinebythewaterside. ingly pretty thatched pubinHelford village is Oinain Information & Orientation There cot- are loadsof self-catering Shipwright’s Arms Shipwright’s 01720 Justacrossthewater, thisheart-melt- ISLESOFSCILLY

( % 231235; Helfordvillage;mains Island Properties Island Properties ). (20 minutes, 11dailyMondaytoFriday,17 plyscilly.co.uk, whilethelocallyrunwebsite winter) The islands’ only tourist office. winter) Theislands’onlytourist hours 9am-5pmSat,9am-2pmSunsummer,shorter Fri, .gov.uk; HughTown,StMary’s; h chopper. landlubbers bebetter the might offtaking – day). Thecrossing canbenotoriouslyrough 40 minutes, onceperdayMondaytoSatur- Mary’s (adult/child return £92/46,twohours -travel.co.uk) The T A O B Parking attheheliportcosts £6perday. minute bookingsare alsosometimesavailable. reduced fares travel formidweek orlast- adult/child; cheap dayreturns (£102/65)and vember toMarch) fromPenzance heliport. to SaturdayAprilOctober, fourdailyNo- Tresco (20minutes, four tosixdailyMonday tolateto 10dailylate March) September and on Saturdaylate seven Junetolate September; sofscillyhelicopter.com) hours) insummer. minutes) and Southampton(£298/170,1½ 50 minutes), Bristol(£278/162,onehour10 toExeterat leastonedailyflight (£232/138, leaving StMary’s before noon.There’s also Endafter 2pm,or leavingfor flights Land’s Sunday). CheaperSaver fares are available timesdailyyear-roundutes) several (except 15 minutes) andNewquay(£145/88,30min- End(adult/child returnLand’s £125/76.50, .ios-travel.co.uk) The AIR the localpapers. Daytrip fares, aswelldiscountcouponsin on aSunday.LookoutforspecialSaver and There’s no transporttoorfromtheislands Getting There&Away Police station Board Isles ofScillyTourist Hospital info.useful www.scillyonline.co.uk hasplentyof other ( ( % % Standard returnStandard fares are £152/90foran International British The island’smainwebsite isatwww.sim 9am-10pm) Staffed by a trio of part-time bobbies. ofpart-time 9am-10pm) Staffed byatrio 422431; [email protected]). 422082; StMary’s) Scillonian Isles ofScillySkybus ( % sails between Penzance between sails andSt 422392; (Garrison Lane, Hugh Town, St Mary’s; Lane,HughTown,StMary’s; (Garrison flies between StMary’s fliesbetween and ferry helicopters flytoStMary’s h or 24hr) ( ( % %

h ( Sibley’s IslandHomes ( % % 0845 7105555;www.ios 01736-363871; www.isle 8.30am-6pm Mon- 0845 7105555;www 422536; tic@scilly 253

CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL al destinations). all Mary’s times dailyinsummer (£1to several runs aroundSt fore each Abus service flight. Town40minutes be- The StrandinHugh Standthe Hugh Old Quay. otheroperators –checkseveral theboardson Mary’s Boatmen’s Association, butthere are bour. Theofficialboats are operated by theSt clearly soitcanbedeposited har- attheright £6.80; make sure youlabelyourluggage A return triptomostoffshore islandscosts early morningandreturn inlate afternoon. main islands.Theboatsusuallyleave inthe Mary’s harbourdailyinsummertotheother Regular interisland launchesfromSt sail Around Getting 254 ISLES OFSCILLY The airport bus service (£3)departs from The airportbusservice SE FSIL • S ays ISLES OFSCILLY ••StMary’s Western Rocks Annet Hell Bay Shipman's Town Maze Watch Hill Head Lighthouse Samson Bryher Troy Hill Cromwell's Samson Rushy Bay Old Castle

Town New Grimsby Channel Grimsby New Agnes Conger St Porth Wingletang Down Appletree Bay King Charles' Gardens Abbey Gugh Castle New Grimsby Road The Mary's Sound Garrison Old Grimsby St Heliport Tresco Tresco The Porthcressa Helen Mary's St Pool St Pentle Bay Scilly Isles of Hugh Town Tean Peninnis the largest andbusiest of theislands, andalso to bearriving byprivate yacht) is St Mary’s, First stopformostvisitors (unlessyouhappen MARY’S ST ( £8 per day. Hire ( can buytickets onboard the boat. open-toppedbus.Ferryvintage passengers a twice-dailytrip(£6)aroundStMary’s ina Rover contact Head % % Crow Bar Iron-Age Village Halangy Down Town Old For taxis, try For taxis, Bikes are available from There are acoupleof bustours of StMary’s; Lower Town

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, which offers Route Ganilly foraround St Mary’s Bike Bike St Mary’s Great , Scilly Cabs To Penzance Eastern Isles Island (28mi)

at itssouthwestern edge –hometotheisland’s crooked circle,withaclaw-shapedpeninsula at itswidestpoint,StMary’s isshapedlike a shops, restaurants andB&Bs.Justover 3miles where you’llfindthevastmajority of hotels, Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com speedboat rides (£18to£25)around theis- speedboat faris For diving onSt Mary’s, contact DIVING &BOAT TRIPS Hellick. Porth and Carn Town, andtheNeolithicbarrows at Bant’s lage at Halangy Down,amilenorthof Hugh theIron Ageunique ancientsites, notably vil- out.StMary’sare worthseeking alsohassome Cove andtherelatively remote Pelistry Bay on footorbybike: PorthHellick, Watermill around theisland’scoastline,bestreached on the Scillys. minister Harold Wilson,whooften holidayed Garden, aswellthegrave of formerprime ial toAugustusSmith,founderof theAbbey the tinyOldTownChurch amemor- contains beach.pottery Thegraveyard and a pleasant of to afew smallcafés,avillage pub,aworking the island’sformerharbourat coastpatharoundPeninnispleasant Head, is rigged pilotgigdating from 1877. kets, acannonandship’s bell)andafully recovered fromshipwrecks (includingmus- archive photosof theislands,various artefacts tically atmosphericexhibits,includinglotsof Mon-Sat winter,orbyarrangement) adult/child £2/50p; and Town Beach Porthcressa Beach. inthewaters St,ordiptheirtoes off and Hugh along themainthoroughfares of The Strand around themanysouvenir shopsandcafés in summer;icecream–toting trippers mill itcanfeel prettyBy Scillystandards, hectic Atlantic swellsduringthewinter months. Garrison, andoften swampedby findsitself of themain islandandtheold landbetween Town,whichHugh sitsonalow-lyingsliver Most of theactiononStMary’s centres on Activities & Sights for the Town,andthedockingpoint Hugh capital, coastline to the northeast. arebest beaches andsights tucked alongthe a mileeastatOldTown,whilemostof the There are lotsof smallinletsscattered A mileeastof Town,reached Hugh viaa The

( % Isles ofScillyMuseum Scillonian 422732) , whoalso offers white-knuckle h ferry. Themainairportis 10am-4.30pm summer,10am-noon

( has somefantas- % Old Town 422337; ChurchSt; Island Sea Sa- Island Sea ISLESOFSCILLY ••StMary’s , home Perched onBuzzaHillwithviewsof Porth- tel.co.uk; r£210-280; of fishy treats. abevy couple of top-class restaurants serving filled withplush sofas andvastbeds, anda heritage-themed rooms higgledy-piggledy, one of onScilly,with thefanciestplacestostay thisformerforton GarrisonPointisstar, dinner; standardrooms £188-268,ste£282-310,incl The Garrison; too. bonus, tended foodare gardens andgoodevening a kids aren’t allowedhere. Thespaciouslounge, one forpeoplelookingahilltophideaway; cressa andStAgnes, isthe thisfineguesthouse for the underwhelming rooms. (type of cookingrange) breakfast makes up about asexcitingthingsget –buttheAga shipshape printsandfibreboard furniture are are hardly cuttingedge –floralbedspreads, intheheartof Town.Therooms house Hugh .com; TheParade; d£73) breakfasts with Fairtrade ingredients. there’s agame-stocked guestlounge andhuge surroundings distinguishtherooms,while Scilly flowerfarmers. DVDplayers andcosy runbyafamilyofis atrulywelcomingaffair, Town, thiswhitewashed B&BnearOldTown Removed fromtherelative bustleof Hugh Cottage Blue Carn Sleeping tours. bird-watching in touch with to otheroffshore islands.Twitchers shouldget costing £5/2.50peradult/child, aswellvisits three-hour archaeological andhistorical tours, Scilly Walks Tours and the USA. attracts teams fromasfarawayHolland hosts the weekends, AprilorMay andevery StMary’s are competitive heldmost highly sport.Races daysgigracingisa foundering ships, but these boats were toraceoutrescue originallyused six-oaredpopular onScilly.These wooden clne (£36). colonies lands andsnorkelling tripstothelocal seal Pelistry Cottage The traditionalsportof St Mary’s Hall Hotel St Mary’s Hotel Star Castle Amaryllis ns World PilotGigChampionships

( ( % % ) Shaped like aneight-pointed Will Wagstaff 423326; www.scillywalks.co.uk) 423387; [email protected];d£90) n

( ( Acleanandsimpleguest- % % ( ) % Another indulgent hotel

( % 422317; www.star-castle.co.uk; 422214; OldTown;d£62-68) 422506; www.scillyholidays 422316; www.stmaryshallho ( %

gig racing gig 422212) , whoruns i still is , which leads 255

CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL hand fromits Scilly owners. 18th-century house,inHughTown,withhelpfultipson .co.uk; ChurchSt;d£66-80; Michelin’s The dining here (mains£5to £18)hasmade few boast viewsover the channel toBryher. with subtlecolours andallmod-cons,a life. Theupstairs rooms are smartly finished centuries,andisstillthehubofseveral island n New Inn cottages. The island, apartfromself-catering tower of 1550s, butwaslater superseded bythecannon Charles’Castle King of theislandare theruinsof twonaval forts– near theAbbey Garden.Onthenorthwestside of at sand curve grandiose shell beach of well-hidden beaches, and includingthesand which have foundered off Tresco’s shores. and nameplates salvaged fromthemanyships Valhalla collection,madeupof figureheads The admissionpriceincludesentrytothe andSouthAfrica. from Brazil,NewZealand 5000 subtropicalplants,includingspecies abbey. Theterraced gardensfeature more than 1834 onthesite of a10th-centuryBenedictine admission£9; -garden; Abbey Garden Tavistock Abbey. Themainattractionisthe largest island,onceownedbythemonksof St Mary’s bringsyouto Tresco, thesecond- A shortboathopacrossthechannel from TRESCO GuestHouse Crebinick atmosphere andagardenpatio out front. cottage oppositeThePark, withplentyoflow-ceilinged tageguesthouse.co.uk; TheParade; d£58-69)Whitecob Cottage Evergreen Campsite galley kitchen. Posh, but well overpriced. anda plush designersuites withLCD TVs rooms,orsuper-‘Godolphin’ orCountLeon rooms, whileyoucanplumpforachoice of d’art nobleman. Grandwoodenstaircases, mansion originallybuiltforaholidaying luxury,inarenovateddashed withItalianate 256 campground. basic washingfacilitiesare aboutallyou’llfindatSt Mary’s Farm;Cottage, Garrison tentsites£4.50-8)Field space and There are onthe onlytwoplacestostay Around theedge of theislandare several ) has been whettingScillonianwhistles for hasbeen SE FSIL • Tec ISLES OFSCILLY ••Tresco and panelledwallscover thepublic ( ( % Cromwell’s Castle % Eating Out in Pubs. 422844; [email protected]; d£180-210;

422670; [email protected]; Tower ( % Appletree Bay Appletree 424105; www.tresco.co.uk/stay/abbey wasthefirst tobebuiltinthe h ( % ( 9.30am-4pm) % n 422711; www.evergreencot 422968; www.crebinick ) Homelyroomsinastout nearby. , andthemore Pentle Bay , first laidoutin , both objets objets

galow ontheeastsideof theisland,and force of theAtlanticweather,andappro- inmostoftaking the island chain. views inallof panorama Scilly,withafantastic from where youcandrinkinoneof thefinest the shopsismodestsummitof stop forvisitingyachts. Justtothenorthof anchorage of Town of are thehouses neartheharbourin are those even showingsignsof decline. Most are justabout theisland’sonlyindustries,and out anexistence: fishing andflower-growing miniature placetotryandeke hills,it’satough heather andbracken, andtoppedbyarange of and wildestinhabited island.Blanketed with mote islandof Bryher, theScilly’ssmallest Just over 70peoplescrapealongonthere- sightseeing. day’s most peopleheadbacktoStMary’s after a pricesit’shardlysurprising blue, butatthese luxurious suites decked outingoldandnavy ing fromgingham-checked bedroomsto iselegancepersonified,throughout rang- or glorioussea-view balconies.Thedécor with achoice of eitherprivate gardenpatios has bedroomsspread wings, acrossseveral ( mixing light New England–stylefurnishings mixing light lavish of island getaway withaselection suites ( of Scilly–isthe superexclusive on theisland–andarguablyto stay inall barbecue patio. kitchen andacute ery rooms,aself-catering old-fashioned Scillonian cottage withflow- Cottage .freeserve.co.uk) including ahead.Thereweeks are acoupleof B&Bs, and mostplacesare usuallyfullybooked island settlers whomoved out in1855. the ruinedcottages are allthat’sleftof thelast bird coloniesanddeserted the quay,occasionalboatsvisitlocal and seal cluded cove that’soften From allbutdeserted. more tranquil tothesouthat during awinter gale. Thingsare usuallymuch priately named BYE & SAMSON & BRYHER % % Bryher’s accommodationispretty limited, This eye-poppinglyexpensive Bryher’s eastern side is exposed tothefull Bryher’s eastern sideisexposed If you’re feeling flush, byfarthebestplace 422947; [email protected]; dincldinner£420-550; 422883; [email protected]; r£150-440; , which sitsontheshoreline nearthedeep

( % 422612; [email protected]) Soleil d’Or , amodernthree bedroombun- New Grimsby Channel New Grimsby Hell Bay

( % makes apowerfulsight 422003; June@scillybug Samson Island lonelyplanet.com Rushy Bay Hell BayHotel , afavourite Island Hotel Watch Hill , amore as Bryher , ase- , where Bank s , a )

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than perfection. but atthispriceyou’dexpectnothingless private balconies,andgorgeous bathrooms, beams. Mosthave theirownsittingrooms, bluesandpale-wood with sunnygolds,sea Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Bay on theisland’ssouthernshore is Par Beach pub andasmalljetty. Lower Town little furtheronisthecluster of around houses huddledcottages oftightly St Martin’s. Ashort waytothewestare the clearwaters£36) inthefantastically around www.scillydiving.com) a smallvillage shopand Town,where isHigher you’llfind settlement for Scilly’sflower-growing industry.Themain islands, St Martin’s isoneof themaincentres The third-largest andfurthestnorthof the MARTIN’S ST fruit,veg,sells bread andtinnedgoods. supplies,theisland’s postoffice self-catering Fraggle Rock Café Vine andcakesher, includingsandwiches atthe for hire. (£15)andwindsurfersnoes (£15)are available initely oneforhardycampers. Bikes (£8), ca- outdoor sinksandanoldshower block–def- .co.uk; sites£7.50) The One of thelargest beaches ontheislandis There are acoupleof placestoeatonBry- Lyonesse’s churchbellsonthe evening breeze. of Mount’sBay,and it’ssaidthatfromLand’sEndyou can stillsometimeshearthetollingof swear thatsubmerged buildingscansometimesbe seen aroundtheSeven StonesLighthouse Isles. WhetherLyonesse ever existed stillremains somethingofamystery, butlocal fishermen that theendoflastIceAge broughtaboutamajorsea-level risearound much oftheBritish where ancienttree stumpsare sometimesexposedatexceptionallylowtides,and it’sknown tide. There are alsosubmerged woodsaroundtheCornishcoast,includingoneinMount’sBay, points aroundtheislands’coastlinewhere Bronze Age fieldshave beendrownedbytherising Roman historianswere stillreferring totheIslesofScilly asonelarge island,andthere are various bear awhite horserisingfrom thewaves ontheir familycrest. refuge inacavetaking descendants,thearistocraticTrevelyan nearMarazion.His family,still wasaman namedTrevilian, whooutrodetheadvancingwavessurvivor on aswiftwhite horse, at somepointnottoolongagothisbeautifullandwassuddenlyengulfed bythesea;sole from thelandofBelerion(present-day Cornwall)totheIslesofScilly.Accordingstory, One ofCornwall’soldestlegendsrelates of tothefabledkingdom Lyonesse, whichstretched THE LOSTLANDSOFLYONESSE , which reveals of abroadsweep sandy Despite thefancifulstory,thislegendjustmightberooted As infact. late asthe4thcentury campsite

( , right nexttothemainquay,while, right % , where you’ll alsofindtheisland (

% 423168) is essentially afieldwithsome isessentially 422222) , which offers dive trips(from

( % andmore fillingmainsat , nearthepostoffice. For 422886; www.bryhercampsite Scilly Diving Middle Town Middle ISLESOFSCILLY ••StMartin’s ( % Lawrence’s Lawrence’s 422848; , anda stays onlyinsummer; of thevineyardwithowners Val andGraham Tours thesmallest)wineryinBritain. tainly ask foramore beautifullocation. pipes andcoin-opshowers, butyoucouldn’t on Scilly)are withwater rudimentary, stand- western end of theisland;facilities(asever atthe Bay campground isnearLawrence’s dle Town;campsite£6.50-8.50) Campsite Eating & Sleeping thesummer. throughout weekdays Thomas are offered from 11amto4pmon ( France. of coastlinearoundCornwallandnorthern days, butstillpolluted more than120miles itbrokethe spill;eventually upafter several in anattempt tosinktheshipandburnoff vessel times wasbombedbytheRAFseveral oilspills.Theof mostdisastrous Britain’s tanker reef, notoriousforthe1967shipwreck of the cluded cove of striped landmarkbuiltin1683,andthese- find theDayMark, ared-and-white candy- you’ll along thewindsweptnortherncliffs to White Islandatlowtide. Ifyouwalkeast Scillys; fromthewestern end,youcancross Bay Great flats atlowtide. Alongthenorthernsideis % Also worthavisitis Polreath Stones milesoffshore istheSeven Seven 423418) Torrey Canyon,

( , arguably thefinestbeach inthe % , themostsouthwesterly (andcer-

( % 422888; www.stmartinscampsite.co.uk; Mid- 422888; www.stmartinscampsite.co.uk; 422046; Higher Town;d£80-100,weekly 422046; Higher Perpitch n ) Thisisarobustgranite . Theisland’s50-place which resulted inone St Martin’s Vineyard St Martin’s 257

CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL Mary’s (£6.60),theoffshore islands(£7)and the upmarket gras andsquab pigeon allfindtheirwayonto the Bishops Rock (£14). Lighthouse longer trips totheWestern Rocks(£122) and Boating swimming. for tide, which comesinfastandistoostrong Gugh the slantingmenhirknownas famousforitsBronzeAgeGugh, remains and connects StMartin’s withthesmallislandof an afternoon bar sunbathe. Atlowtideasand Covean Down by thebracken-strewn of sweep southern sideof theislandismostly taken up onaprehistoric bebased original.The might tobearoundtwocenturiesold,but thought Town Maze thecovespath between the tiny passes ofthe patronsaint shipwrecks. Thecoast lis Cove andStWarna’sCove, named after the roadleadstotwolovely inletsatPerig- decommissioned quite manage to reach. toric sites, andit’saplacemanyvisitors never coves, rugged reefs andascattering of prehis- Scilly Isles,StAgnes isstuddedwithpeaceful athome.feel Themostsoutherlyof right the will soaspiringRobinsondeserted, Crusoes departed forStMary’s, theislandispractically St Agnes isquiet;whenthelastdayboatshave Even therockyislandof by Scillystandards, AGNES ST £42.50) porary Tean (three-course Restaurant menu view.Thecontem- if youwanttosecure asea bank toraidthepiggy islands, butyou’llneed make thisoneof thetop-rated hotels inthe pool, manicured groundsandaprivate jetty is noexception.Sparklingrooms,alavish share of pamper-palace hotels, andStMartin’s tel.co.uk; d£290-460; evening meal too. get andsometimesyou’lleven ahotweek bitesand light are alsoonoffer sixdaysper cream teas, baguettes sunny conservatory; itional roomsorsipacoollemonadeinthe yourself intooneofSqueeze thetitchy, trad- cottage –oneof thefew B&Bsontheisland. 258 St Martin’s ontheIsle St Martin’s Offshore boat tripsare operated by The mainquayisat . Take care nottobecutoff bytherising H OT OS • Flot THE SOUTHCOAST ••Falmouth , whileontheeastsidelittlebeach of is a handsome place to settle downfor isahandsomeplacetosettle

( is agourmettreat too–venison, foie % , aconcentricmazeof stonesthat’s 422704; www.st-agnes-boating.co.uk) carte ns Old Lighthouse . (

% ) Scilly certainly hasits Scillycertainly Porth Conger Porth 422090; www.stmartinsho , fromwhere Wingletang , nearthe Old Man of Old Man St Agnes St Agnes to St Troy men’s cottages notfarfromthe post office. 10.95) are alsoavailable (doubles£64 to £70). way.Rooms the mood.Wonderfulinevery treated shantyifthelocalladsare toasea in be even down. Youmight as thesungoes you cancarryyourpintdowntotheslipway upinthewood-panelledbar,and is served food (swordfish, crab-cakes, veggie chillis) photoslinethewalls,greatseafaring pub isarealalehouse beauty.Modelships and the entire mostsoutherly country,Britain’s £60) and other sticky treats. picnic lunch ifyouask,complete withscones a friendlyownerwho’llhappilypackyou near Covean withfourfrillyroomsand Beach ( world. this theviewsareAtlantic wind,though outof able, butthesite tothe isquite exposed and token-operated showers are allavail- land. Flush loos,hotandcoldwater basins Farm inthesouthwestern cornerof theis- Troy TownFarm; tentsites £7.50) The Eating & Sleeping trading port andnaval harbourafter the natural harbour, Falmouth flourished asa years. Boasting theworld’sthird-deepest a maritime hubformorebeen than500 Roads, theportofCarrick Falmouth has Estuary, overlooking theentranceto Strategically situated attheendof theFal % FALMOUTH andtheLostGardens Castle of Heligan. fine gardens,includingTrelissick, Caerhays also where you’llfindmanyof Cornwall’s the bruntof thebitingAtlanticwinds,it’s down tothewater’s edge. Sheltered from lanes andbroadgreen fieldsrollinggently landscape of floweryhedgerows, tree-lined quil sidetothecounty,withapatchwork southern shore presents amuch more tran- fable swellsof theNorthCoast, Cornwall’s In contrasttotheplungingcragsandsur- COAST SOUTH THE % o Alternatively try The island’snicestB&Bis 01326 /pop20,775 , anatmosphericB&Binarowof fisher- 422620; s£20-24,d£58-70) campsite Quite possibly ourfavourite pubin Turk’s Head Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

( % 422360; www.troytownscilly.co.uk; Coastguards

( , a small granite house , asmallgranite house % isatTroyTown 422434; mains£6.50- (

% Covean Cottage Covean 422373; dfrom

5.15pm Mon-Fri, 5.15pm Mon-Fri, 9.45am-5.15pm Sat) ofWalesPier; Strand, Prince 11 Market h lonelyplanet.com Tourist office Tourist Post office Bubbles Laundry its central street. medley of dotted bars along andbrasseries also gainedabuzzyafter-dark scene,witha wall) openeduptheroadinPenryn, it’s the CUC(CombinedUniversities of Corn- especially sincethespankingnewcampusof National Maritime More Museum. recently, home tothesouthwestern outpostof the and repairs, andsince2003it’salsobeen remains centre animportant forshipping galleons maybelonggone,butthetown days of ships, tea thetall clippers andnaval 1689and1850.The coloniesbetween seas anditsover- Britain and suppliesbetween which carriedmail,bullionPacket Service, its heydayduringtheeraof theFalmouth river atTrurosilted up.Thetownreached Mon-Sat) Information FALMOUTH 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-7pmSat, 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sun) A39 (5mi); Truro (12mi) & BudockVean Hotel To MawnanSmith Hawthorne DeneHotel...... Dolvean House...... ainlMrtm uem.C2 National MaritimeMuseum.. Ferries toStMawes& SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION St Michael'sHotel...... Poltair Hotel...... (see7) Greenbank...... Falmouth Backpackers...... Chelsea House...... Pendennis Castle...... Flushing...... Boat TripsalongRiverFal..(see4) Post Office...... TIC...... Bubbles Laundry...... ( % (

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CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL a defensive gunbattery during WWII. ant half-hour strollalongthe headland is ant half-hour beachsandy backed bya funky café.Apleas- beaches. Mostpopularis Falmouth with a trioof isblessed town which at ringsouteveryday noon sharp. is thedeafening retort of theNoondayGun, grounds duringsummer;ratherless tuneful Regular outdoorconcertsare heldinthecastle Post. andObservation magazine, Guardhouse outside youcanvisittheoldunderground plored inside theoldartillerybarracks,and cannons. Thehistoryof thefortress isex- deck withitsimpressive collectionof vintage warfare onthecastle’sreconstructed gun- but youcanstillexperienceataste of Tudor Arundell of Trerice ( p233 siege John underthecommandof Captain War, thecastlewasengaged inafive-month Roads.DuringtheCivil trance totheCarrick ( p266 along withitssister fortress of StMawes a key andPendennis strategic asset, wasbuilt, Falmouth’s deepwaterharbourmadethetown mainland fromSpanish andFrench invasion. of fortresses designedtodefend the British 1540 to1545byHenry VIIIasoneof achain 260 BEACHES These daysthegunshaveThese fallensilent, 211446) boats alongthepicturesque River Fal, callingat .falriverlinks.co.uk) Cruises £4.50/3) andSmuggler’sCottageat Bay andtheFal Estuary. Down onPrinceofWalesPier you’llfindseveral companiesoffering boat tripsaroundFalmouth MESSING ABOUTONTHERIVER for UStroopsduringtheD-Dayinvasions. The website at (the SeatofLordFalmouth andthesite points ofCornwall’sonlytea plantation),andembarkation wildlife andpointsofinterest suchasPill Creek (settingofthefilm and Frenchman’s Creek. Mostofthecompaniesoffer anonboardcommentarydetailinglocal local walksincludingtheOyster Way,a3-hourramblefromTolverne toStMawes. £7/4.50 few timesdailyinwinter exceptSunday. pending onthetimeofyear. Truro to withtheharbourmaster’s connect officenearthecitycentre.deckers There are alsotripsfrom the tides,boatssometimesstopatMalpas,3milesdownriver fromTruro;free double- H OT OS • Flot THE SOUTHCOAST ••Falmouth Enterprise Boats Passenger ferries Other companiesofferOther similarroutes butonlytravel asfarTrelissick andTolverne; try ),todefend theharbouranden- istheonlycompanywithitsowncatamaran,andalsooffers cruisesalongtheRiver Helford )

andthesmallyachtingvillageof ( % St Mawes 01326-211056) has contact detailsandtimetablesforallthecompanies,plussuggestions hascontact (return £10/5).Boattripsrunevery twohoursorsoinbothdirections de-

( ( % % ),andlater became 01872-861910; and 01326-374241; www.enterprise-boats.co.uk) Gyllyngvase Newman’s Cruises Tolverne

, aflat www.kingharryscornwall.co.uk/ferries) Flushing enroute to Trelissick Gardens

( lyngvase andthetowncentre. Dormrooms lyngvase Pavilion, thisindiehostel ishandyforGyl- trammelled by cliffs andafinespotforsome trammelled bycliffs sheltered swimming.There’s alsoasmall of milesfurtheralongthecoastis coots, kingfishers andmute swans.Acouple populatedand nature bygrebes, reserve, Swanpool ‘Pendennis’ suite anda miniscule‘Captain’s a ‘Ships familyroom, afour-poster and Castle’ behind thePromenade. This is thepick,with B&Bs are tucked awayonthis quietterrace it asecret –three of Falmouth’s best-value .com; 2EmslieRd;s£35-40,d£55-76; often provided bythe genial owners. brekkie of tea andtoast.Summerbarbiesare six-bed configurations, andincludeabasic are plainandpatchy, arranged inthree- to £20/36) backpackers.co.uk; 9GyllyngvaseTce;dm£16-17,s/dfrom Falmouth Backpackers Sleeping they fillupquickly in summer. are carparks atSwanpoolandMaenporth, but you cancatch theX89busfromtown.There beaches are accessiblefromthecoastpath,or ing drinks,snacksandicecreams. Allthree sell- beach café (open9amto6pminseason) % fromthepierevery hourinsummer,anda Chelsea House 01872-580309) Plonked onabackstreet nearPrincess Fal River Links Truro , backed byasmallinlandlagoon Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com operates three wooden-hulled (return £10/5).Dependingon .

Twinstar Cruises ( Treasure Island ( p262 % crosstoStMawes(return 212230; www.chelseahousehotel

( ( ;adult/childoneway % % 01872-861914; www 319996; www.falmouth ), Tregothnan n

( % ) Shh, keep Maenporth 01326- K&S , better thanagoodold-fashioned fish supper, thornedenehotel.co.uk; 12Pennance Rd;s£40,dfrom£75; table. breakfast and three typesof Danish pastrygracethe intheattic.Homemademarmalade Cabin’ lonelyplanet.com £3-4; Harbour Lights Eating swimming pool, sauna). (spa, trimmings sea-themed roomsandallthetop-end offers luxurious the GyllyngvaseBeachhotels,StMichael’s .co.uk; GyllyngvaseBeach,d£136-178)Byfarthebestof Hotel St Michael’s Poltair Hotel boutique, butawonderfulplace to wallow. a private jetty. It’smore country-chic than nis courts,13hectares of parklandand even sitting rooms),fourlounges, ahealthspa,ten- bank, withhuge rooms(somewithprivate riverside beautysitsontheHelford’s north wart onCornwall’sluxury-hotel scene,this Smith;d£214-240; Mawnan has itsown brass-mounted telescope. Dalmatian print);theSheldrake Suite even king-size beds,andtheoddzebrastripeor bedspreads) or‘Executive’ (deluge showers, ard’ (classiccolours, pinefurniture, quilted top-drawer harbourview.Roomsare ‘Stand- hotel, plonked ontheedge of townwitha aroundFalmouth’scruise originalupmarket £260; Harbourside; standardd£120-150,executive £150-215,ste Shame aboutthe busy road. with treats includingDVDplayers andwi-fi. trimmings –butthey’re allplush andposh, lace, tasteful tones,brassbedheadsandfrilly are flouncyandfeminine –expectlashingsof taste.won’t betoeveryone’s The10rooms five-star B&Bisacutabove thenorm,but Rd;s£40,d£80-90; 50 Melvill odd period curio. most have views,springybedsandthe sea with logfire). Theroomsare antiquated, but and booklinedgentleman’s lounge (complete adorning thewallstoantiquediningroom this family-runhotel, fromtheoldphotos p top-floor ‘Beachcomber’ suite. spic-and-spanroomsand aluxurious house, witheleven guest- Rd; s£24-30,d£48-60)Great valuedouble-fronted Hawthorne DeneHotel Greenbank Greenbank House Dolvean Budock Vean Hotel Budock Vean Hotel ) Edwardianelegancerulestheroostat h p lunch &dinner) ) Ships inbottlesandmodelboats ( % ( %

( % THESOUTHCOAST ••Falmouth 313158; www.poltair.co.uk; Emslie (

312440; www.greenbank-hotel.co.uk; % ( 316934; ArwenackSt;fish &chips %

Sometimes youcan’tdo ( 312707; www.stmichaelshotel % pis 313658; www.dolvean.co.uk; 250288; www.budock.co.uk; 250288; www.budock.co.uk; i

( % ) Falmouth’s only 311427; www.haw Anotherstal- ) £14.95-19.95; Yard; lunch&sandwichesfrom£5.50; walls. whitewashed tones with palewoodandrough is nicelyminimal, mixingMediterranean top-notch Cornish produce,andthesetting blending European andAsian flavours with Themenuisbangup-to-date,toms House. floors of alisted buildingneartheoldCus- at thislaid-back restaurant, splitover two 18.50; local brews. ofmains, alongwithatempting selection tive menuof burgers, andheartier ciabattas excellent pub-cum-bistro withanimagina- all tooeasily,butthisisthereal deal–an Sun) &Sat,noon-12.30amMon-Thu,& 6-11pmFri noon-midnight and seafood. and makes great of use fresh Cornish fish bours, butthemenu’sauthenticallyFrench you’ll beelbow-to-elbowwithyourneigh- hereSt. Thetables are packed and intight brings asoupçonof Gallicflair toArwenack with Falmouth foodies,thissnuglittlebistro inclement days. summer, orinthesparklydiningroomon onthebeach-vieware sundeckin served Med-style dishes andbarbecue-grilled tapas if you’re downSwanpoolway.Sophisticated town, butafinechoice forbeachside dining £12-20; pancakes).(check out theCanadian and theweekend breakfasts are recommended aweek, nights DJs anddrinkspromosseveral There are of onthesands Gyllyngvase. right fair-trade hangoutoffers tempting caféfood friendly, going crowd,thisenvironmentally winter) mains £5.50-8.95; wi-fi’s abonus. soups andtrademarkroasted veg. Thefree for itsbumper-sized homemade sandwiches, this cute littleorganic café,locallyfamous Mon-Sat; quay. the anice littlediningroomoverlookingeven sourced,oftown (sustainably There’s course). and this place does thebestcod‘n’chips in and thisplacedoes Hunky Dory Boathouse Gylly BeachCafé CinnamonGirl Café Bistro delaMer Mackerel Three Thegastropublabel isbandiedabout h A populardenforFalmouth’s beach- h i dinner) lunch &dinner) ) h Look nofurtherforlunch than

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261 CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL For somethingslicker, trythisstripped-back the brilliantEuropeanfilmsandlow-budget cinema,and shows allvamp asanarthouse Falmouth hashadarecent ArtsCentre re- bers – a classic old sea-dog ofbers apub,withthe –aclassicoldsea-dog Wed, 7pm-2am Thu & Fri, noon-2amSat,noon-midnightSun) Wed, 7pm-2amThu&Fri, every November.every Festival bands aplenty,and theannual for live with gigs,theatre events, andtribute kleisure.org.uk; Rd) 41Melvill Odeon. downthe getBrit flicksyounever tosee Poly Entertainment on. coffee andleathersofas tolounge around ofa just-soselection vinylandCDs,great music emporium-cum-cappuccinobar,with a menuof munchie mains. chilled sofas, vibe, withdeep draftbeers and towan, thisbeachy baroffers asimilarly 11pm) sports and casino nights. livebar withpooltables, bands,big-screen lager German and selling local beers. beside theharbourandatwin-floored pub pint,withpicnictables is theplaceforasunset quay fromtheChainLocker, thisbusyboozer and hugger-mugger atmosphere. lowceilings,heart-stoppingales all-important Chain Locker 262 Drinking Princess Pavilion Princess Jam Blue South MI Bar Quayside October FalmouthOctober hostsanannual British oysters. Thankfully oyster isupandrunningagainontheHelford,every production in thelate 1980safter ofaparasite theintroduction fromtheUSAdevastated stocksofnative hundredwhich wastoflourishforthenext years. The industrysuffered acatastrophicdecline and Fal Estuarieswere supplyinglarge asfarawayPlymouthandLondon, atrade fishmarkets from theHelfordforlordofmanor. Bythemid-19thcenturyoyster fisheriesintheHelford oftheTrelowarren (oncepart Estate), aclaimforthebestfishandshellfishEarthen whichstakes Cornish oyster fishingcomesfromadocumentdating1506belonging totheManorof been farmedinthiscornerofCornwallforatleast500years. The earliest knownreference to markets, nottomentionoodlesofoystermarkets, guzzling. of thisbloomingbivalve, withaprogrammeoflive demonstrationsandfood music,cookery The River Helfordishometooneofthelasttraditional MOLLUSCS MARVELLOUS Nice ( Sister venue onPorth- totheBlueBar % H OT OS • Teisc adn THE SOUTHCOAST ••Trelissick Gardens

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( % Thetown’smain venue 211222; princesspavilion@carric Impossiblyfunky h Shiver-me-tim- 7pm-midnight Mon- Justalongthe Cornwall Film Oyster Festival The old h 11am-

cludes all-daycarparkingandcosts£10per into Falmouth. TheFalmouth FloatPass in- runandtherethe ferry doesn’t isonlyabus Quay.OnSunday, park toCustomsHouse three hourlyferries fromPonsharden car .ponsharden.co.uk; Sunday). the 400(hourlyMondaytoSaturday,five on more frequent. Forallthetownbeaches, catch to Saturday)viaPenryn takes longer butis Monday 90. Bus88(50minutes, half-hourly urdays), which continuestoNewquayasthe the 89(30minutes, hourlyMondaystoSat- The quickest busfromFalmouth toTrurois Getting There&Away the River Fal. is closed thehouse Although position overlooking lushly woodedfields to Daniell in1825,which inafabulous stands century neo-Gothic mansionbuiltforThomas rick Roads,theheart of theestate is the19th- Stretching for200hectares above theCar- other of Cornwall’sgloriouscountryestates. h 862090; [email protected]; adult/child£5.80/2.90; drons sumup Rolling fieldsandworld-classrhododen- ryn, Falmouth TownandFalmouth Docks. hourly MondaytoSaturday),stoppingatPen- from Truro(£2.90oneway,20minutes, Museum. for discounted entrytotheNationalMaritime people. You’llalsoqualify car foruptoseven £15.50 percarfortwopeople,or£22.50 people; theStMawesto seven Explorer costs car foruptotwopeople,or£14per TEISC GARDENS TRELISSICK

(www.falmouthoysterfestival.co.uk) Ponsharden Park &FloatService Falmouth isattheendof thebranch line 10.30am-5.30pm Feb-Oct, 11am-4pm Nov-Feb) oyster fisheries h Trelissick Gardens Trelissick 10am-6pm Mon-Fri May-Sep) May-Sep) 10am-6pm Mon-Fri in the UK. Oysters have intheUK. incelebration lonelyplanet.com (

(NT; 319417; www % 01872- , an- runs 6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pmSat)Internetaccess. 6pm Mon-Fri, notch teashop. Aspiring aristocratscanstay There’s alsoagardenshop,galleryandtop- rhododendrons, camelliasandhydrangeas. gardens,renownedthe ornamental fortheir blockandstrollthrough Georgian stable therefurbishedto thepublic,youcansee lonelyplanet.com Royal CornwallHospital Post office Library choice of bars andbistros. andalivelyfind themaincountymuseum dotted aroundthecity.It’salsowhere you’ll andVictorianvillas Georgian townhouses ers. Tracesof itsrich heritage remain inthe shoppers, workers office andweekend drink- it’snowprincipallyofalthough interest to townandindustrialhub, tory asastannary Kenwyn andTruro,thecityhasalonghis- a bowl-shapedvalleyfed bytheRivers Allen, commercial centre. Nestledatthebottomof anditsmainadministrativety’s capital and inthecathedralcityofmeet Truro, thecoun- Cobbled streets andhigh-street chainstores % TRURO hidden alongthequietcreeks nearby. troyers destinedfortheDDaybeaches were riverbank –50years agomanyAmericandes- tankers thatmoorupalongthe the deep-sea riverside trailsaroundtheestate. Lookoutfor you canfollowoneof lovely several walksand [email protected]) National TrustHolidayCottages in the19th-centurywater tower–contact accident andemergency. Information If you need to burn off those teatime scones, toburnoff those If youneed onto the brake-squeakingly Restronguet Hill. The pub’s rightatthebottom bythedock. Restronguet Hill. onto thebrake-squeakingly turn toFlushingand MylorBridge;followsignsfor Bridgeandlookoutfortheleftturn Mylor Bridge. Headingsouthon themainA39roadfromTrurotoFalmouth, theright-hand take taxi home. Oranambulance. the Pandora’s fabled smuggler’srum:at80%proof,though,youmightneedtoarrangefor a yachtmasts. Hardysoulscanevenon thepontoontosoundofclanking samplesomeof abandoned anchoroutsideconjure upthesmugglers’-den vibe,andyoucansinkyourdrinks spot byRestronguetCreek. Foot-thick walls,scuffed-wood tables,ship’slanterns andahuge Pandora, oneofCornwall’soldestandbest-loved waterside pubs,ensconcedinaheart-melting o SNUG SMUGGLERS’ THE 01872 /pop17,431 The Pandora ofthevillage of sitsontheedgeofRestronguet Creek, about0.7milesnortheast ( % (High Cross; (High Pandora Inn 279205; UnionPlace;perhr£3; THESOUTHCOAST ••Truro h ( % 9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) ( for details. % 250000; Treliske) 24hr 250000; Treliske) 01326-372678; Restronguet Creek; mains£4-12) 01326-372678; Restronguet

( % 0870 4584422; h 9am- selling travel guides, fiction andgeneral-interest titles. selling travelguides,fiction 5.30pm Mon-Sat,10am-4pmSun)Largechainbookshop of which nowformsthecathedral’s South 16th-century parishchurch of StMary’s (part angle.from every Builtonthesite of the gested donation£4) ( heart of town,thethree-spired Plonked like aneo-Gothicsupertanker inthe CATHEDRAL TRURO Lemon St Falmouth Rd alongnates; thefinestexamplescanbeseen up toaccommodate Truro’sindustrialmag- sprangmansions andgrandtownhouses rival of therailwayin1859.FineGeorgian enjoyed ahuge financialboomafter thear- mining andmanufacturing,thetown to Falmouth, Truroturneditsattentions to the Hall forCornwall. including days Truro’soldquaysexistonlyinname, when theriver becameclogged bysilt.These a busyport,butsuffered setback aserious and taxed). Untilthe18thcenturyitwasalso nary towns(where stamped tinwasassayed, when itbecameoneof thecounty’sfourstan- town’s historyreally beganinthe14thcentury site of thepresent-day CrownCourt,butthe Truro grew uparoundahilltopcastleonthe CITY OLD Sights Waterstone’s Truro Launderette office Tourist Police station St; % h While thelucrative shippingtrademoved 276782; www.trurocathedral.org.uk; High Cross;sug- 276782; www.trurocathedral.org.uk; High 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pmSat) 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, . Lemon Quay , ( ( (Tregolls Rd; (Tregolls Strangways Tce % % Prepare tofallinlove withthe 225765; 11BoscawenSt; 274555; [email protected]; Boscawen dominates thecityskyline ( % 272005; ChapelHill) and h 8am-6pm) Back Quay , Walsingham Pl Truro Cathedral , bothnear h 9am- 263 and

CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL Cathedral Cathedral in 1886. by itsmaker Henry WillisforCoventry 1887, andalmostidenticaltooneproduced and thehuge Father WillisOrgan, builtin bartes family(owners House) of Lanhydrock John Wesley),anornate memorialtotheRo- Cornish miningandtheMethodist preacher glass windows include itscollectionof Victorian stained- St Paul’s. Thecathedral’sfamousfeatures first since newcathedraltobebuiltinBritain building wasn’tcompleted until1910–the the foundationstoneswere laidin1880,the tect John Pearson. Loughborough Although foritsarchi-nical andfinancialundertaking Aisle), thenewcathedralwasamassive tech- 264

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l l and offers of airyroomsand aselection light, courtyard inTresillian, 3milesfromTruro, B&Bisarrangeddelightful aroundacentral don’t befooledbythevintage exterior. In- with aGeorgian frontlooksold-world,but It’s gotalltheboutiquecredentials; Egyptian about 7milesnortheastofin Ladock, town. toreachwheels thisbeautifulconverted mill colours, easy-cleancarpets,ancientket- furnishings are B&B(pastel bog-standard sandwiches and handmade ciabattas form andhandmade ciabattas sandwiches 49 Falmouth Rd;s£42.50-50,d£60-70; uphill fromthe town centre. 75; Tresillian; dfrom£50,cottages£400-700perwk; FarmTregoninny Sleeping Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com chutneys and cheeses. of a selection which Cornish alsosells jams, the cornerstone of thisgreat sandwichshop, wiches £2.50-5; StSandwichDeli Duke Eating Townhouse Fieldings over thehotel’s manicured grounds. proportioned bedrooms;thebesthave views beds andflowerydrapesinthegenerously porary. Antiquewardrobes, burnishedsleigh style isdefinitely more countrythancontem- converted convent isTruro’stophotel, butthe .co.uk; Tregolls Rd;s£90,d£95-200,ste£225; striplights. designer plete with workspaces, dishwashers and nine corporate-style ‘aparthotels’ com- back furniture. themainhotel are Behind distinguished bycitrustintsandstripped- side the34roomsare zingyandmodern, .co.uk; Lemon St;s£75,d£95-120; for longer stays. cottages in-room fridges, plusself-contained handmadesoap,freshcotton sheets, fruitand mill.co.uk; Ladock;d£75,ste£95; favourite. package-tour andJacuzzisauna sweeten thedealatthisold andaguest tles), butextrassuch asSkyTV buildings. farm converted cottages acrossseveral self-catering hsadadwf team. husband-and-wife Treyew Rd;s/d£22/44)Homelyguesthouserunbyalocal Alverton Manor Alverton Royal Hotel Bissick OldMill Hotel Carlton pn ( % ) A practical if wholly unremarkable B&B just ifwhollyunremarkable ) Apractical ( % 262783; www.fieldingsintruro.com; 35 h

277374; 20Falmouth Rd;s£45,d£65- ( % (

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9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) ( % % % 270345; www.royalhotelcornwall 223938; www.carltonhotel.co.uk; 276633; reception@alvertonmanor

520145; www.tregoninny.com; 01726-882557; www.bissickold ( % 320025; 10 Duke St;sand- 320025; 10Duke pi pi ) pn You’ll need You’ll need THESOUTHCOAST ••Truro Thishotel ) Gourmet p p ) This ) This ) The atmosphere, butthere’s noarguing withthe chairs andslate floors create stuffy aslightly ner Tue-Sat) h but themenu’sallabout classic,straight- fish emporiumfeel metropolitan-modern, tures and overhead pipesmake thisswish side benches where yousupyour pint. and excellentgrub, without- good beer serves along theriver estuary,thiscreekside pub Mon-Sat, 7-10.30pmSun) troupe atweekends. up behind thebar,andthere’s often ajazz of mats;aselection dailyalesarebeer chalked Herecocktails. it’sallburnished woodand getting sickof minimalistdécoranddesigner Truro’s pubs,andawelcomechange ifyou’re on weekends. something boozers andrunsalate-licence wine bar,which with30- isalwaysstuffed hang heavy over thisperennially popular Kasbah Drinking lobster. Newlyn fromFalmouthforward seafood, oysters to h renowned forhis petits fours. allfeature,and localseafood andtheowner’s food –Cornish meats,hand-baked bread monkfish. pan-fried mains veering fromspidercrab chowder to ably thebestintown,withdailychanging surprising, astheinventive menuisargu- withoutbooking.Hardlyto bagatable kept secret foryears, butit’snowtough classics. Chinese flavoursHong KongandCanton aswell bang up-to-date, withamenuof Szechuan, experiencenoodle barbringstheOriental and paperlanterns –thisresolutely modern £6-9; cakes. carrot its chunky butties,thickbeansoupsand donkey’s years butisstillchurning out chaotic aroundfor wholefoodcafé’sbeen above theoldTruroPannier Market, this mains £6-9; Heron Indabafish Fodder’s Old AleHouse Tabb’s Saffron NoodleBar Xen lunch Tue-Fri, dinnerTue-Sat) lunch Tue-Fri, dinner) h

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271384; Pannier Market, Lemon271384; Pannier Quay; Market, ( %

( 274700; Tabernacle St; mains£14-18; % Ditch the Chinese dragons Ditch theChinese Twomilesfrom the city 271122; QuaySt) 222998; 47-49CalenickSt;mains Shades of Morocco Lilacwalls,leather h 11am-3pm &6-11pm Hiddenaway Thepickof h

265

din- CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL a 30-mile round trip by road. The Roseland a 30-mileroundtripbyroad.TheRoseland ontheeast;ifyoumiss thelastboatit’s leigh links Trelissick onthewestbankwithPhil- misra releases. mainstream D Nov-Mar). 10am-4pm Fri-Mon Apr-Jun 10am-4pmOct, &Sep, adult/child £3.90/2; unusual clover-shaped chichi harbour of St Mawes, bestknownfor its Across thewaterway fromFalmouth isthe % St Mawes&Around studded alongthe southern coastline. ing backlanes,alongwithlittle-visited inlets with cropfields,grazingcattleand meander- is alovely, quietcornerof Cornwall,filled the oldKingHarry Ferry ( opposite got yourownboat;theonlyroute acrossisvia placetoreachit’s stillatough unlessyou’ve Cornish word land Peninsula. Thenamederives fromthe parishes of MylorandFeock fromthe Rose- of Roads,which dividesthequiet theCarrick ies of theRiver Fal water intothedeep seep South of Truro,themudflatsandtidalestuar- ROSELAND THE ton, andabranch line to Falmouth to Penzance, PlymouthandLondonPadding- Cornwall,withonwardconnections through twohourshour, every Monday to Saturday). to Saturday)andtheT50StMawes (one X18 toPenzance (1½hours, hourlyMonday Ives (1½hours, hourlyMondaytoSaturday), day toSaturday,hourlyonSunday),14St to Falmouth (30minutes, atleasthourlyMon- the rest of linesincludethe88 Cornwall;useful There are regular fromTrurotomostof buses Getting There&Away rowdy at kicking-out time. onFriday.Thingsgetclub night notoriously includingthepopularTranz@ctionnights withfiveTruro’s biggest nightclub, themed 1.30am Mon,9.30pm-1amWed-Thu, &Sat) 9.30pm-2.30amFri .co.uk; Lemon St) former townhallon Quay. Lemon touring theatre inTruro’s andmusic,housed .co.uk; Lemon Quay) Hall forCornwall Entertainment 266 esigned to work in tandem with itssisteresigned to workintandem L2 Truro ishalfwayalongthemainline Plaza Cinema 01326

H OT OS • TeRsln THE SOUTHCOAST ••TheRoseland ( % 222023; CalenickSt;covercharge£3-5; Afour-screen cinemashowing ros, The county’smainvenue for h

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not –thismustard-coloured ‘bar-with-beds’ down toa boat-filled creek. wildflowers andoverhanging yewstumbling for the twin roundhouses atthetopoffor thetwinroundhouses the a centralgreen andduckpond;it’sfamous lage of on theSouthWestCoastPath, whilethevil- harbour of churchyard of coast. NorthfromStMawes isthebeautiful of onCornwall’ssouth the bestexpanses sand dower of streetsther eastyou’llstumbleacrossthesteep century church of gun battery, aswellthecharming 12th- andtheoldStAnthony striped lighthouse Anthony’s Head, where you’llfindacandy- cuil fromStMawes isthepromontoryof St worth delvinginto. AcrosstheRiver Per- housed unfortunate inmates. murky the centralkeep are superb;lookoutforthe particularly impressive, andtheviewsfrom Fairfax stoneworkis in1646.Thepreserved totheParliamentarianwithout afight General was duringthe Civil War, whenitsurrendered fortresses; action coastal thelasttimeitsaw ofone of Henry’s thebestpreserved chain of fortress of Pendennis ( p259 the feeling and of bythesea, abeach house late blues conjure checks andsea-stripe up and amixof wicker, scrubbedwood,choco- escape wallet-buster, buttheDriftwoodisaseaside r£190-220; .co.uk; nearPortscatho; the only drawback. fromtheground-floorest suites. Noise caféis viewto match the Tresanton’swith asea prici- has five jazzilyfinished rooms,includingthree d £90-120) ning harbour overlook. chic furniture; bagafrontroomforthestun- loaded withknackered trinkets andshabby- on thehillsidewithcluttered, comfyrooms s/d£35/70) Hill; Braganza SLEEPING devil-proof). them village (thelackof corners apparently made Portscatho Driftwood Hotel Driftwood Hotel St Mawes of towardsthesweep VeryanEast isthe Bay The countrysidearoundStMawes iswell , which joinatlowtidetoformoneof par excellence Veryan oubliettes, Can’t stretch Can’t totheTresanton? Fear

( % Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Portloe andthebeaches of 270281; [email protected];Grove AnimposingRegency house sitsalittlewayinlandaround St-Just-in-Roseland (

( narrowshaftsthatonce , anoldwreckers’ hangout St-Anthony-in-Roseland % 270266; www.stmaweshotel.co.uk; . NewEnglandcolours 580644; www.driftwoodhotel p ),StMawes is ) It’sanother Carne , ajumbleof and . Fur- Pen- film stars have gracedtheRiviera-styleter- d £230-295,ste£315) the placejusttoreinforce the vibe. there are shellsandpebble-filled jars allover lonelyplanet.com May to September). (adult/child return £10/5, four tosixdaily Harbourvagissey alongthe coasttoFowey Gorran Haven chalet park,andthepocket-sized harbour of popular withholidaymakers fromthenearby including thelarge beach sandy at withineasyreach,are intriguingsights several town’s meanderingopenspaces, but there ports. Itwon’ttake youlongtoexplore the of pretty Cornwall’squintessentially fishing granite breakwater in Mevagissey, another sheltera smallfishing fleet behindadouble Flower-fronted oldpubs and cottages, salty % MEVAGISSEY &AROUND Sunday. on side9.20pm;onehourearlier from Roseland The lastferry fromtheTrurosideis9.30pm, crossing over theRiver Fal 20minutes. every last chain-operated ferries, andmakes the oneway20p/50p) trians/bikes carsoneway/return.kingharry-info.co.uk; £4.50/6.50,pedes- hours Monday to Saturday). two The T50runstoTruro(onehour,every THERE&AWAYGETTING bass filletsandskate on the menu. chairs andtwisted willow),withswordfish, bles) withanup-todate restaurant (allwicker trappings (slate roof, warmbeers, outsideta- This flower-covered pubcombinestraditional scampi and chips. fine placeforagammonsteak orabowlof lovely patiooutfrontthatmakes enclosed a A popularpubnearthewater’s edge, witha Sun Rising EATING bistro. Onefor the album. cinema, motorlaunch andaward-winning bathrooms, andluxuriesincludingaprivate natural woodsandnauticalshadesinthe stripes anddeluxe fabricsinthebedrooms, hotelier OlgaPolizzi.Chilledchecks, sea races of hotel, thisfantastic runbyrenowned Hotel The Inn Victory For ferries toFalmouth, see p260 01726 /pop3785

King HarryFerry King Tresanton Tresanton

( % . Insummer,ferries runfromMe-

( 270233; St Mawes Harbour;mains£5-10) 270233; StMawes % THE SOUTH COAST •• Mevagissey &Around THESOUTHCOAST ••Mevagissey Celebrities andsojourning Celebrities 270324; Victory Steps;mains£6-12) 270324; Victory

( % 270055; www.tresanton.com; isoneof theworld’s

( % 01872-862312; www . Pentewan

, child £8.50/5; Heligan of the hourlyguided tours. you’llhavethe house, tobookahead for one are onlyopeninspring;if you wanttovisit Magnolia andgardens Collection.The house towering rhododendrons andtheNational side are groundscovered stately incamellias, library andchandelier-strewn rooms;out- gance, withacentrepiecebook-lined staircase, isaclassicchunk ofhouse Victorianextrava- Palaceingham Pavilion). and Brighton The guidance of John Nash (whodesigned Buck- Trevanions andlater remodelled underthe lated countrymansionoriginallybuiltforthe gardens10am-5pmmid-Feb–May) Mar-May, only £5.50/2.50; ( pillbox. thebeach is Behind backed bywoods,pastureland andaWWII of curve land aroundDodmanPoint,isthegraceful West of Mevagissey, head- pastgorse-topped CASTLE CAERHAYS station. Austell Sunday), which travels fromNewquayviaSt or youcancatch Bus526(sixdaily,twoon (30minutes,St Austell ninedaily), station 7 milesfromStAustell. Bus25leaves from of the gardens. its gloryonFlora’sGreen, inthemiddle right inall 25m fromroottotipandcanbeseen rhododendron, which measures amajestic blooms. It’salsohometotheworld’slargest lar ‘LostValley’ filledwithpalmsandexotic kitchen garden, afairygrottoandspectacu- its secrets: tropicalgreenhouses, aVictorian thelastdecadegardenhasyieldedup Over restoring thegardentoitsformersplendour. team of volunteers of beganthearduoustask ten, untiltheearly1990swhenSmitandhis Heligan languished,overgrown andforgot- slid intodisrepair. Forthenextfive decades were killed),thegardenandhouse its staff lowing theoutbreak of WWI(where mostof of Cornwall’sgreat countrygardens,butfol- of theTremaynefamily seat familyandone During the19thcentury,Heligan wasthe Tim Smit’spetproject was heembarkedBefore onhisEdenadventure, HELIGAN OF GARDENS LOST Sights house &gardenadult/child£9.50/3.50,orgrounds % Heligan is1.5milesfromMevagissey and 501310; www.caerhays.co.uk; combined ticket to501310; www.caerhays.co.uk; combinedticket ( % Porthluney Cove Porthluney h 845100; www.heligan.com;Pentewan; adult/ h 10am-6pm Mar-Oct, 10am-5pmNov-Feb).10am-6pm Mar-Oct, house tours hourly noon-3pm Mon-Fri house tourshourlynoon-3pmMon-Fri , asheltered beach

the Caerhays Castle Caerhays of Lost Gardens , acrenel- 267

, CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL in originaloakandslate, plusasmugglers’ pubintownhastwobarsoldest (andsaltiest) cares whenyou’ve gotapubthisgood?The Cornwall’s culinarywave justyet,butwho £5-8) a sunwashedterrace onthehillside. sofas and deep andcushioned windowseats there’s awood-cladlounge scattered with mullioned windowsover thebay.Elsewhere beds,othersand sleigh stylish bedlampsand with retro; some have abstractprints settees, ian pileabove Mevagissey, mixingrestoration Twelve eclecticroomsinastately Edward- s£79,d£128-196; Mevagissey; .co.uk; SchoolHill, beach. the butthatjustmeansyou’re to gissey, closer isnearerThe house PortmellonthanMeva- cotton sheets asyoumove uptheprice scale. twisty-columned four-posters andbaby-soft views;add sprung bedsandfieldorsea dinky roomsinpalepalettes, allwithpocket- B&B thanahotel, butlovely allthesame; d£74-116; .co.uk; Polkirt; Bay. Mevagissey great balconiesoverlooking theharbourand ask forVictoriaorAlbert,which bothhave rooms; ifyou’re aview-junky make sure you Creamy pinedefinethe effort. wallsandlight B&B,butthesuperoutlookisworth sweet .co.uk; d£60-68; Honeycombe House Eating & Sleeping 268 Trevalsa Court Trevalsa Hotel Tremarne Fountain Inn 280) rdependingonseason £160- hotel.co.uk; Portloe; did theBritish seasidegetthis sexy? place forwatching the sungodown.When terrace theideal makes panoramic portside fishy treats straightofftheboats, andthe Downstairs theelegantrestaurant serves ary furnishingsandhuge,decadentbeds. roughoakbeams,clean, contempor-expect forsomeimaginativetages, making layouts; glers’ innandadjoiningfishermen’s cot- roomsdottheoldsmug- Higgledy-piggledy theconsummatemakes romanticgetaway. this supremely indulgentboutiquehotel the beautifuloldfishingtownofPortloe, Lugger Hotel SWANK SEASIDE Mevagissey doesn’t seem tohave caught seem Mevagissey doesn’t H OT OS • Ee rjc THE SOUTHCOAST ••EdenProject Teetering over theharbour’sedgein p

( %

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% ( ( % % 842320; St George’s Sq; pubmeals 842320; StGeorge’s ps 01872 501322;www.lugger 843750; www.honeycombehouse 842213; www.tremarne-hotel 842468; www.trevalsa-hotel ) It’s more asmart pi

) pathway leadsdownintothelandscapedpit open savannahs of theSouthAfricanveld. ofAmerica tothedrydeserts Mexico andthe world, fromthesteaming rainforests of South and re-create from acrossthe naturalhabitats hind theLostGardensof Heligan; see p267 record producerTim Smit(alsothebrainsbe- the largest onearth–were dreamt upbyex- in early2001.Thethree – giantgreenhouses landmark sinceopeningtheirfuturisticdoors as Cornwall’sbest-known(andbest-loved) 4.30pm Nov-Mar) adult/child/family £14/5/35; Project thegiantbiomesoflanding station, the doned claypitnearStAustell like alunar- Looming upfromthebottomof anaban- Haven (20minutes). toHeligan526 goes (10minutes) andGorran Fowey (50minutes), whilethetwice-daily Austell (20 minutes) before cuttingbackto The hourlybus26Bwanders inlandtoSt Getting There&Away curries. a menuof beer-battered codandMalaysian forRealAle)StAustell ales,and (Campaign tunnel totheharbour,Camra-approved for the the rainwater isrecycled toflush theloos. sources ormicrogenerators,tainable andeven is reused orrecycled, powercomesfrom sus- of –packaging sustainability environmental hugely ambitiousproject, andalsoamodel of outlandishartwork.It’sanamazingand ened upbyallkindsof exoticplantsandbits blocks), andthesurroundinggrounds are liv- one of nature’s building mostfundamental structed accordingtotheFibonaccisequence, thebiomesisaneducationcentre (con- Beside Cornish farmlandtotheAmericanPrairie. Biome andSouthAfrica,whilethe California mirrors thearidregions of theMediterranean, steamy inthe dent populationof butterflies. Thingsare less fall, aminiature andaresi- bananaplantation tropical trees; there’s amanmadewater- even orchids, ferns,houses climbingplantsand – 240mhigh the world’sbiggest, astaggering and thethree biomes.The EE PROJECT EDEN In summer, thebiomesform thebackdrop From themainvisitorcentre, awinding takes inpracticallyeverywhere from

( % Eden Sessions Eden Sessions 01726-811911; www.edenproject.com; Bodelva; 01726-811911; www.edenproject.com; Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com have themselves established Warm Temperate Biome of, aseries gigsheld ina h 10am-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am- 10am-6pm Apr-Oct, Humid TropicsBiome , which Outside Eden ), – lonelyplanet.com ships and galleonscharged withprotecting the Middle Ages it wasacrucialport forwar- have allcalled thetownhome,andduring freecaptains, traders andscurrilouspirates of ports. Sea thesouthwest’s mostimportant of one Fowey(pronouncedfoy)haslongbeen the River Fowey, thehistoricmaritimeport terraces teetering onawoodedhillsideabove A jumbleof pastel-coloured andtiered houses % you’ll get theadmissionprice. £3off biomes. Alternatively, ifyouarrive bybike, parks andcatch ashuttlebusdowntothe you’ll have toparkinoneof theonsite car ets are available onboard.Ifyouarrive bycar and Truro;combinedbusadmission tick- from StAustell, Newquay,Helston, Falmouth Austell. annual passfornoextracharge. and ifyou’re visitingregularly youcanbuyan orbookviathewebsite,from touristoffices, queues; youcanbuyyourtickets inadvance Thankfully there are lotsof waystobeatthe ular andcanget very crowdedinsummer. ter andoverpopulation. such asclimate change, disas- environmental building designedtoexplore globalchallenges projects includetheEdge, anambitiousnew winter-themed full-size covered ice-rinkspringsupforthe and TheMagic Numbers), whileinwinter, a JoséGonzalez,Goldfrapp Amy Winehouse, purpose-built arena (previous artistsinclude FOWEY The EdenProject is3milesnortheastof St As expect,Edenishugely youmight pop- see www.itsnoteasybeinggreen.org. in thevillageof Tywardreath, nearFowey; actor. placechezStrawbridge Coursestake yourownbiodieselre- sics ofconstructing household cleanersorboneupontheba- wife Birgit; yourown learnhowtomake one ofseveral ecocoursesoffered byDick’s your green credentials, youcouldattend friendly ecohaven. Ifyoufancypolishingup Cornish farmhouseintoanenvironmentally Strawbridge totransforma300-year-old the attempts ofex-lieutenant colonelDick It’s NotEasy BeingGreen, One oftheBBC’smostpopularecoshowsis GURUS GREEN 01726 /pop2273 Truronian THESOUTHCOAST ••Fowey Time ofGifts

( % 01872-273453) whichdocumented festival. Planned runs buses runsbuses pedestrian £2.20/1; pedestrian Mar) book readings, gigsandlive events. Polruan tle constructed thesmallfortof several excellent beaches, butyou’llhaveseveral to ferrythe passenger backtoFowey. river to Polruan, fromwhere youcancatch Hall Walk leadsfrom Bodinnickalongthe Bodinnick. Ifyou’re onfoot,thescenic4-mile until 7pminwinter; is10am. Sundaystart from about 7.15amto11pminsummerand Itoperatesboards forthenextsailing. daily Slip–checkTown QuayorWhitehouse the theferry leavesing ontheseason, either from only;£1) and bikes 15minutesevery a boat tripstrundleoutontotheriver anda down totheharbour,where variousscenic old battlements. ofcannon emplacementsandasection the mostly ruinedyoucanstillstrollaroundthe it’s the townagainstSpanishraids;though small beach of terrace of TheEsplanadeleadsdowntothe ofnorthern coast.East thechurch, thesmart waymarked trailrunningtoPadstow onthe the southernendof the century Festival May, Foweyhoststhe atnearbyPolridmouthCove.in ahouse Every Maurier resident, theBritishthrillerwriter erary centre toFowey’smostfamous devoted St; The Activities & Sights overlooking thepretty waterfront. gle of portsidepubs,poshhotels andbistros holidaytown,withagag- turned well-heeled Padstow’s southcoastsister; aworkadayport InmanywaysFoweyfeels rather likesailboats. replacedmostly been byswankyyachts and cent years thetugboatsandfreighters have pits aroundnearbyStAustell, butover re- exporting Cornish china clay, mined atthe sion. Foweylater becameakey harbourfor inva- the BritishmainlandagainstCatholic h

Along the coast towards Looe thereAlong the coasttowards Looe are In theopposite direction, Fore Stleads inthecentreRight of townisthe15th- Further outof town,the (EH; admissionfree) carries cars, bikes andfootpassengers to tourist office tourist 9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat,10am-5pmSun) , over theriver fromFowey.Depend-

(www.dumaurier.org) (1907–89), wholived mostof herlife Church ofStFinbarrus travels acrosstotheharbourof h ( Readymoney Cove Readymoney

% last ferry 8.45pm Apr-Oct, 7pmNov- last ferry 8.45pmApr-Oct, above thebeach toprotect passenger ferry 833616; www.fowey.co.uk; 5South Daphne du Maurier Literary Literary Daphne duMaurier inherhonour,with Saints’ Way Bodinnick Ferry St Catherine’s Cas- St Catherine’s , which marks . Henry VIII (foot passengers houses alit- houses

, a26-mile Daphne du

269 (car/

CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL stunning Queen Anne manorhouse isoneof Annemanorhouse stunning Queen the countrysideacross theRiver Fowey,this refurbished Coastfeel at roomswithanEast its rabbit-warren corridors. snug, low-ceilinged roomsarranged around tage inthemiddleof Fore St,withaclutch of country mansion bedecked in oilportraits, to make sure it’snot make-believe; ahuge placeswherethose youhave topinch yourself manor.co.uk; Lanteglos-by-Fowey;r£74-94; wheels. with the harbourcarpark,soit’shandy forthose husband-and-wife opposite team; it’sright runbya friendly this harbourguesthouse, 21-27StationRd;s/d£45/65) marine.com; St; s£22.50,d£45-55; a rentable for tepee aspiring Apaches. badgerand night-time watching. There’s even organised tripsincludingBodminMoorhikes hasspaciousdorms,estuaryviewsand house hectares, thiswonderfuloldGeorgian manor .uk; Penquite House;dm£15.50; Golant YHAHostel Sleeping and King Mark. taken thistorefer tothelegendary Tristan nus, sonof Cunomorus).Fanciful typeshave Hic Iacit/Filius Cunomorus withthelegend inscribed inLatin the mainFoweyroad,thisgranite blockis Stone tered banks.The stonesandraised littleremainsalthough save forafew scat- Dore Castle outside thetownisIronAge hillfortof take (withpredictably tragicresults). Just afterTristan drinkingalove potionbymis- she fell inlove withKingMark’s nephew butbetrothed tothebeautifulmaidenIseult, ing tothestory,CornishKingMark was hasitsrootsinFowey.Accord- supposedly speare Theatre), toWagnerandKneehigh (retold fromBéroulandShake- byeveryone a little dicey. rip-tidesmakealthough theswimminghere soft-sand cove reached cliff-path, viaasteep village, while Lansallos trailfrom gle beach reached byahalf-mile OS map. anddigoutthe strap onthewalkingshoes 270 The locallegend of Tredudwell Manor Tredudwell GuestHouse Fowey Marine Globe PostingHouseHotel H OT OS • RsomlCsl Castle THE SOUTHCOAST ••Restormel is another local curiosity; standing by isanotherlocalcuriosity;standing Lansallos KingMark’s, supposedly fortress,

( n % is a small sand andshin- isasmallsand

) ( 0870 7705832;[email protected] Atinycob-walled cot- % i Tristan andIseult, 870226; www.tredudwell Lantic Bay (

) Set in1.2private Set (here liesDrusta- ( % 833920; www.fowey Bright, newly Bright, 833322; 19Fore p i a lovely a is Drustanus Deep in Deep ) Tristan Tristan

tro. intooneof thebooths, Squeeze sinka tween great little local’sfavourite islike acrossbe- –this razor-sharp napkinsandsnootyservice pint oraquick lunchtime sandwich. andmakesCarter, alovely spotforaquayside takes itsnamefromthelocal‘free trader’John .com; TownQuay) ofPrussia King Eating balconies. estuary-view roomshave past;seven building’s seafaring byremindersdesigned interior, offset of the ful tonesare dotted aroundthearchitect- chairsfabrics, rattan andachingly taste- dence of Fowey’sexclusive edge. Natural boutique beautythatprovides furtherevi- oldquayhouse.com; d£160-210) boast private balconiesover the river. bed.Thepricierrooms and theoddsleigh with luxuriousbathgoodies,deluge showers the quietlyelegantroomsmixnauticalstyle most of theyear;spread over three buildings, hotel fullybookedthis chic stays town-house The Esplanade;d£108-152) of private grounds. andsurroundedbyhectares spiral staircases his entire reign. It’soneof thebest-preserved there heonly stayed although twice during the BlackPrince(the first Duke of Cornwall), 10am-4pmOct) Sep, £2.40/1.20; ined castleat onahilltopaboveHigh Lostwithiel, theru- CASTLE RESTORMEL station. train hourly) runstoFoweyviaPar, theclosest Bus 25fromStAustell (55minutes, half- Getting There&Away shaded by navy-blue awnings. filled withfishy treats and anoutsideterrace Quay, withanexcellentfixed-price menu feel aroundthissmartrestaurant onTown £19.95; bookings or credit cards. Other Place( stacked-up Samburgers. Ifit’sfull,trySam’s calamariringsor andtuckintomussels, beer Food ForThought Sam’s Old QuayHouse Hotel Marina h Cheers

( h % lunch &dinner) Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 10am-6pm Jul&Aug, 10am-5pm Apr-Jun & 832273; 20Fore St;mains£4-10) Thekingof Fowey’smanypubs Restormel

andabackstreet French bis- %

( wasoriginallybuilt byEdward ( % %

833636) at41Fore St.No ( 833315; www.themarinahotel.co.uk; 833315; www.themarinahotel.co.uk; %

627208; www.kingofprussiafowey ( % Accoladesaplentymean There’s aFrench Riviera 833302; 28Fore St;www.the (

% 832221; 4TownQuay;menu 01208-872687; adult/child This isanother Forget tle boltholeabove theharbourboastsoneof old pilchard-processing factoryoverlooking POLPERRO battlements. crenellated liant viewsacrosstheriver andfieldsfromits bril- circular keeps inthecountry,andaffords Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com vnae wood. vintage very cosy,with lots of oldknick-knacks and dining room.The roomsare traditionaland the lovely glass-fronted conservatory-cum- Polperro’s finestviews, bestappreciated from Watchers Sleeping tonearby the clifftops and there are somefinecoastal walks along (adult oneway/return £9/14,child £6/10), travel alongthecoasttoPolruanandFowey is also on display. belonging tooneof hiscohorts, Robert Mark, hanged forthecrime.subsequently Acutlass oneof thecrew,Officer; TomPotter, was tery episodes, whenthecrew of thelocal boat one of thetown’smostnotorioussmuggling heyday. There’s alsoasmalldisplayrelating to as plentyof periodphotosof Polperroinits paintings andvintage pilchard barrels, aswell fishing memorabilia,modelboats,Victorian the harbour. Theramshacklebuildinghouses child £1.75/50p; cream). ice drawn carts(return £1.50includingafree trams (oneway/return 75p/£1.30)andhorse- lazy soulscanjumpaboardoneof thedinky andfishermen’s stores.houses Alternatively, to theoldquayside,ringed byslate-topped lage, fromwhere it’sa15-minute strolldown still a bewitching place. day tradeand,despite thetouristclutter, it’s daysPolperroisgearedthese towardstheholi- rowing boatbobbingbesidethegranite quay, theoccasionalfishing smackand still glimpse a notorious smugglers’ haven. you’ll Though the village wasonceakey pilchard portand ies, cobcottages alleyways, andsqueeze-guts packedits tightly warren of fishermen’sboth- the picture of aCornish fishing village. With thelittleportofby woodedcliffs, Polperro is Nestled atthebottomof asteep valleybounded % The Regular boattripsfromPolperroHarbour The maincarparkis750moutsidethevil- 01503 /pop1584 were involved inthemurderof aCustoms Polperro Heritage Museum Polperro Heritage

( % 272296; TheWarren; dfrom£50) h 11am-5pm Easter-Oct) Talland Bay (

% occupiesan . THESOUTHCOAST ••Polperro 272423; adult/ This lit- Lot- where Looe, you’llfindthemajorityEast of Hannafore Point. things are more upmarket acrosstheriver on preme although here, Looe, especiallyinEast Chip shopsandchintzy B&Bsstillreign su- hasn’tyetreachedaissance asfareastLooe. rival alongthecoast,Cornwall’scultural ren- turies. IncontrasttoFowey,itslong-standing cen- forthelasteight bound upwiththesea of andWest East have inextricably Looe been Victorianbridge,a seven-arched thefortunes spannedby Squaring upacrosstheRiver Looe % LOOE atLiskeardtrain station (onehour). day toSaturday.The573alsotravels ontothe (30minutes) hourMon- every Looe and East 572and573makeBuses thetripover toWest Getting There&Away with the head chef. day, withdishesprepared after consultation menu(£30)fromSundaytoThurs-met tasting true gut-busters, there’s gour- aseven-course hand-reared andCornishcheeses. For beef bassto menu trippingfrompan-roasted sea stoves andArtNouveau furniture a meet Pierre White. Woodenbeams,reclaimed BlancandMarco- Raymond Gordon Ramsay, real heavy-hitter, runbyaformerpupilof h ( with anale or three. spot forafresh washed crabsandwich down Polperro kiddleywinknearthequay;just more homelyfare, headforthiswhitewashed Pilchards Three Drinking & Eating and simple pine furniture. of cream andmagnolia,pretty prints seaside bathrooms characterised shades bystalwart uncomplicatedpleasant, B&B,withsmallish back fromthevillage’s mainstreet, thisisa owners. Age head massagesfromtheever-so-slightly New andIndian plusReikisessions conservatory, by itshideawayroomsandalovely suntrap park, thisslate-roofed cottage isdistinguished 65; % o Penryn House Cottles The heart of theaction isconcentrated on p from 4.30pmSun,6.15pmMon,Tue &Thu-Sat) 01503 /pop5280 272554; Saxon Bridge; 3-/4-coursemenu£23/27;272554; SaxonBridge; ) Onthehillsideabove themaincar

( % Couch’s Great HouseRestaurant Couch’s Great 272578; LongcoombeLane;s£45,d£60-

( %

( % 272233; TheQuay;mains£6-10) 272157; d£70-80; p ) Set 271 For A

CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL keysanctuary.org; St Martins; adult/child£6/3.50; StMartins; keysanctuary.org; 4.30pm Sun-Thu Easter-Sep) trips toPolperroandFowey(£19/12).There George’s Island(adult/child £5/3),aswell cle Bert. called aswell acapybara murs and marmosets, life centre with amenagerie of le- meerkats, isanotherexcellent wild- B3359 fromLooe, 6pm Feb &Apr-Nov, Sat&SunonlyMar) animalland.co.uk; Trecangate; adult/child£6/5; bug, now – tops of theirwoodedenclosure. Altogether most of theirdayslarkingabout inthetree- ridiculously cute woollymonkeys, whospend the Looe, hours’ mackerel fishing. shark orreef angling,or£10foracoupleof to payaround£20/£30forahalf/fulldayof ( national headquarters forthe (£10/7). life venture of intothebayinsearch localmarine made yourchoice. Glass bottomboatsalso your nameinoneof thebooks onceyou’ve andleaveon thequayfornextsailings are plentyof otheroperators –check thesigns boat of themostatmosphericisanold tinations upanddownthecoastline. One warship. Swedish tobelonga up fromthequayandthought Finbacker cannon,dredged is thehalf-tonne 15th-century guildhall.Outsidethemuseum hibits, aswellachance insidethe topeek isworthalookforlocalhistoryex- Looe, h to Beach Second of at headeastfortheexpanse sand seclusion, any George Formbyconnections).Formore Pier beacharound 1800atthesandy beside county’s first bathingmachines wasinstalled as athrivingholidayspot,andoneof the hadalready century Looe itself established .com; TheGuildhall; well asthe the town’sshops,pubsandrestaurants, as 272 nics, androckpoolstodelve inat low tide. % The town’s If thelittleoneshave stillgotthe wildlife Hidden awayonthehilltopabove East Looe isalsofamousforits Looe outfrom Boat tripsset Hannafore Beach Hannafore 11.30am-4.30pm Sun-Fri) (namedforitscircularshape ratherthan 262642)

( H OT OS • Lo THE SOUTHCOAST ••Looe % Porfell AnimalLand Porfell I wanttobe like you-oo-oo…. 263110) is just behind Buller’s Quay. Expect isjustbehindBuller’sQuay.Expect Monkey Sanctuary Monkey tourist office tourist , ormake thetripacrossriver , which makes tripsover toSt h museum , withgrassybanksforpic- 10am-2pm). ishometoacolonyof ( , inthecentre of East

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% 262072; looetic@btconnect (adult/child £1.50/50p; Buller Quay

( Bytheearly19th % 220211; www.porfell sea- fishing Shark Anglers’Club 262532; www.mon , justoff the h RNLI Life- h fordes- –the 10am- 11am- Banjo

experience. Classymodernfixtures andbold offers Looe analtogetherEast more cultured with embarrassment,butthisswish hotel in B&Bswouldmake FawltyLooe’s Basil blush 29.95, 3-coursemenu £22.50; Wed-Mon) £75-85; landlady. house fiveminutesfromLooe,withan award-winning Polraen Schooner Point across river and countryside. offerdistinguish therooms,andseveral views colourways of aquamarine,goldandpistachio Rd,EastLooe;dfrom£110; Martins 8 are the best). maximum spaceandriver views(rooms6and of yesteryearwhiff –thesuperiorroomshave fireplaces armchairs anddeep create atangible above Antiquewardrobes, Looe. original East old-world atthisconverted manorhouse .co.uk; StationRd;d£82-120; stay. night’s and breakfast pancakes make foraluxurious none are beds massive, thebalconies,puffy are named after Cornishbeaches, andwhile overlooking Hannafore Point.Alltherooms atthisdouble-gabled house grandiose goes Hannafore Point;d£80-110; Beach House Sleeping maritime character flair – withcontinental restaurant combinesthis excellent seafood investigating. Nochildren under 15. Cornish cheeseboard isparticularlyworth the placetowhileaway theevening; a pleasant wherever possible,andtherusticdiningmakes nish produceandorganic ingredients are used Cor-this faintlyfussyrestaurant Looe. inEast h crumble. apple-and-blackberry souls plumpforblackcurrantsandcream or vanilla andchocolate, whileadventurous irresistible treat; traditionalistscangofor This award-winningice-cream firmisan Treleavens Eating location for town. chintz-free B&Bwithgreat veggiebreakfasts andahandy .co.uk; 1Trelawney Tce;d£50-55; Old SailLoft Mawgan’s Barclay House Manor Trehaven dinner p (

% Thu-Tue) Insideanoldfishermen’s store, ) TraditionallythemedB&Binan18th-century

( Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com % 263956; www.polraen.co.uk; Sandplace;d

( ( % % (

SlowFoodtakes centre stage at 220969; Fore St;icecreams £1.50-2.00) % ( (

% % 265331; Higher Market St;mains£14-18; Market 265331; Higher 262598; www.thebeachhouselooe.com;

262670; www.schoonerpoint 262131; TheQuay;mains £15.95- 262929; www.barclayhouse.co.uk; St ( % 262028; www.trehavenhotel p p h p ) pis ) Theguesthouse lunch Thu-Mon,dinner Things are more ) Pastel-shaded but Someof )

lcl fish. local bassand withlobster, sea a menuwriggling andheftybeams, woodentables rough think stripycanvaschairs with crossed lonelyplanet.com tors, thetimetoex- butit’swellworthtaking Cornwall’s ‘roof’ isoften overlooked byvisi- Pockmarked bybogsandtreeless heaths, of thecounty’swildest,weirdestlandscapes. barrenstark, of expanse Bodmin Moorisone theedgeHugging of border, the theDevon MOOR BODMIN the London– Penzance line. onSunday), Monday toSaturday,eight from Liskeard (£2.50,30minutes, 11daily utes) inthe opposite direction. travelbuses over toPolperro(thirty min- Monday toSaturday,five onSunday).Both toLiskeardBus 573goes (30minutes, hourly minutes, hourlyMondaytoSaturday)while Bus 572travels toPlymouth(onehour10 Getting There&Away Camel Trail (15mi) To Truro Port Quin BODMIN MOOR Trains travel Valley thescenicLooe Line Camel Valley Atlantic Vineyard Ocean Bodmin &Wentford Wadebridge Port Isaac Railway Trebarwith Trehellas BODMINMOOR••Bodmin&Around House Boscarne Slaughterbridge Junction Strand A30 St Tudy Delabole Camelford Bodmin Lanhydrock Tintagel Restormel Castle Lostwithiel Lank Farm Higher Poley’s Bridge River Camel B3266 A39 Cardingham Woods Coleslogget Bodmin Moor Boscastle Blisland Bodmin Parkway Halt A390 Train Station Stripple Stones To Bude (400m) Rough (15mi) Tor Hawk’s (419m) Brown Tor Willy Bodmin Moor Davidstow Colliford St Neot Carnglaze Lakes To Helston A38 Caverns lock-up, where unfortunate law-breakers were the ruinsof BodminJail, Cornwall’sinfamous old courtroominsidethetownhall,aswell until themid1990s.Youcannowvisit min remained forthecountycourt theseat over toTrurointhelate 19thcentury,Bod- much of Bodmin’sbureaucratic powermoved towns.Although the county’smainstannary founded byStPetroc, andlater becameoneof up aroundalarge 7th-centurymonastery stout market townof Bodmin, which grew On thewestern sideof themooris the % the scientific boffins baffled. formanyyears butstillhas seen that’s been Bodmin Moor–alarge blackcatlike creature of and giants,aswelltheinfamousBeast fabled menagerie of fairies,buccas,sprites tor; 400m)andBrownWilly(419m),a the peaksof Tor(pronouncedrow- Rough at thefootof granite tors. It’salsohometo across thehills,andancient churches nestle monumentsarecircles andeerie scattered plore; lofty peaksloomonthehorizon,stone BDI & AROUND & BODMIN Bolventor (6mi) 01208 /pop12,778 Jamaica Inn Dozmary Altarnun Dobwalls Pool Golitha

Falls River Fowey River A395 Cheesewring Liskeard Siblyback Lake 10km 5.0miles 0 0 The Trethevy Kilmar Quoit

A30

Tor River Lynher River The Hurlers Minions Launceston A390 Callington A388 Henfort Cotehele A384 (4mi)

273

To CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL with the Trail;you canhireCamel bikes at the lineat BoscarneJunction joinsupdirectly routes of path leadstothelovely walking trailsandbike at Coleslogget Halt, from where ahalf-mile to BodminParkway route, the trainstops rounding area. AlongtheBodminGeneral either endof theroute toexplore thesur- original 1950slivery. Youcanjumpoff at and thetrainsare stilldecked outintheir fares Itmakes andtimetables. agreat daytrip, –check thesitedepending ontheseason for and Boscarne Junction. BodminParkway,between BodminGeneral alongastretchbetween of standard-gauge line on route£7.50-10.00) www.bodminandwenfordrailway.co.uk; adultreturn depending the of inthe1960s,venerableclosed steam trains route toPadstow. thisclassicline Though ( p226 quins thanrevenants, butyou know. never moreChances are rubbishmanne- you’llsee thejail’scorridors.many phantomswhostalk prisoners, forthe andkeep youreyespeeled forcondemned cells, includingtheoneused into ruin,youcanstillwanderaroundseveral much ofThough theoriginaljailhasfallen a popularhangoutforlocalspook-hunters. dusk) ( executionto gawkatWeeks’ at aboard specialtrainslaidonfortheoccasion) cells below the court. verdict intotheoldholding andtake apeek the time. Attheendyoucancastyourown andwidespreadbious evidence scepticismat local womanCharlotte Dymond,despite du- wascondemnedforthemurderofWeeks during which theyoungfarmhandMatthew exhibit relives of theevents the1884trial, dodgyfibreglassand several dummies, the the oldcountycourtroom.Using film,audio isre-createdmost infamouscourtcases in Nov-Easter) Mon-Fri £3.75/2.25; Experience DymondCourtroom Charlotte inside theShire Hall, where you’llalsofindthe .org.uk; MountFolly; introduced tothe hangman’s noose. either banged upor,inmore cases, serious 274 % A crowdof 20,000peopleturnedup(many Bodmin There are fourandsixtrainsdaily between The jailalsositsadjacenttothe Trail Camel 76292; www.bodminjail.org;adult/child£5/3; , oncethecounty’smainprisonandnow OMNMO • Bdi rud BODMIN MOOR••Bodmin&Around ),which follows theabandonedrailway Bodmin &WenfordRailway h

Cardinham Woods Cardinham tourist office tourist 11am-4pm Mon-Sat Easter-Oct, 11am-4pm 11am-4pm Mon-SatEaster-Oct, , inwhich oneof Cornwall’s h are theirway stillchuffing 10am-5pm Mon-Sat)

( % . Theotherendof 76616; bodmintic@visit ( %

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’uns canhelpfeed thepigs,groomponies have atoddlerunderfive here. tostay Little tailor-made forkids–infact,you’llhave to Tourism GoldAward.Three refined rooms, theGreenonly twoCornish B&Bs tosweep oneofthe fore guesthouse, atthisecosavvy .co.uk; StBreward; rfrom£85) s £50-65,d£65-85; ings, agreat restaurant andapicturesque rural all thestops;countrifiedroomsintwobuild- hotel,a grandmanorhouse thisplacepullsout Washaway; s£60,d£90-120; back foraslap-up, farm-fresh feed. whilegrown-upskick and gathertheeggs, table. breakfast andbacongracethe eggs sourced sausages, andwi-fi connection,whilelocally inch TVs all namedafter trees, have minifridges, 21- with DVDplayers and power showers. Bodmin, withthree fancyroomskitted out this impeccablydesignedB&Bontheedge of dummiesat designerprintsandtailor’s meet .co.uk; BarnRd;d£60-70; Prior’s Farmhouse Canyke Castle Sleeping Hire from station Bodmin General beers andfreshly-cooked pub rations. and vintage swords, withamenu of Sharps a formerdebtor’s prison covered inoldrifles Bodmin, soyourbest betisthismurkyoldpub, £8) inthis served down-home café. andfreshlunches, lasagnes cream teas are Leaf Maple Eating if youhaven’t along brought your own. of rent-a-dogs toborrowforcountrywalkies andtherecollect theeggs, are acouple even ing farm.Kidscanhelpmilkthecowsand modern interiors, it’sstillvery much awork- and restrained colourschemes. Despite the places: here it’sallsilkywood,bambooscreens Cornwall. Forget cobwallsandinglenookfire- make thisoneof inallof thenicestfarmstays imagination andartisticflaircombineto -tregleath.co.uk; dfrom£70; hemmedinbywoods setting and fields. Goodrestaurants are hardtocomebyin Hole in The Wall Hole inThe FarmSouth Tregleath House Trehellas Higher LankFarm Higher Bedknobs

( % 73555).

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72206; 14HoneySt; pi 77553; www.bedknobs.co.uk; CastleSt; (

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( % 73336; www.trehellashouse.co.uk; 72397; CrockwellSt;mainsaround piw ) ps

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850716; www.higherlankfarm % p 01208-72692; www.south 79109; www.castlecanyke Rough stonewalls Rough ) Once aninn,now ) h Architectural ) Mon-Sat) Bodmin Cycle Light Light lonelyplanet.com Thanks to itsvaguelysimilar name,Camel- southeast fromthelittletown of Camelford. fromflat heathland4miles Tor, which rise by thetwinpeaks of BrownWillyandRough The northernstretch of themoorisdominated CAMELFORD &THENORTHERN MOOR threetrain station times daily. min. Bus554runsfromBodmin Parkway the house’s long history. escape thefire, exploring andasmallmuseum the LongGallery,which somehow managed to store. There’s alsoafabulousplaster ceilingin tuan ovens water-cooled andpioneering cold- into insight offersRobartes family, thehouse afascinating style. Formerlyownedbythehigh-faluting by fire in1881, butwaslater rebuilt inlavish gardens 10am-6pmyear-round) Sun Oct, h gardens adult/child£9.40/4.70,only£5.30/2.65; ofhouse the River Fowey,the16th-centurymanor in365hectares of groundsaboveSet sweeping Trail. Camel links BodminParkway withBodminandthe p274) (see The Bodmin&WenfordRailway posite direction toPadstow andWadebridge. London toPenzance trainline,andin theop- minutes, hourly MondaytoSaturday),onthe outside theShire Hall toBodminParkway (15 from Monday toSaturday),whilethe555goes Bus 529travels toStAustell (onehour,hourly Getting There&Away the huge originalkitchens withtheirgargan- rugs), thechildren’s toy-strewn and nursery headsandtiger-skinEtonian photos,moose tlemen’s smokingroom(complete withold includethegen- torian England.Highlights LANHYDROCK Lanhydrock is2.5milessoutheastof Bod- Lanhydrock taking afewtaking caseshome. totastethere’s shopifyoufancy thevariousvintages,andawell-stocked plentyofopportunity dates) includingabuffet lunchandapersonaltourconducted bythevineyardmanager. Naturally 5pm WednesdayApriltoSeptember), andafull-blowndaytour(£33;at10.30am,enquire for (£4.50; at2.30pmMondaytoFridayAprilSeptember), agrandtourandtastingsession (£6.50; run foritsmoney.There are three toursavailable,includingabasictriparoundthevineyard class whites toasparklingchampagnethatmanagesgive theauthenticFrench varietyareal award-winning Cornishwinesinasecludedvalleyvineyardformore than15years,fromworld- Two mileswestofBodmin,the UP! BOTTOMS house 11am-5.30pm Tue-Sun Mar-Sep, 11am-5pm Tue- house 11am-5.30pmTue-Sun Mar-Sep, Lanhydrock Upstairs Downstairs BODMINMOOR••Lanhydrock

(NT; % Santé! 01208-73320; house& was devastated wasdevastated Camel Valley Vineyard life inVic- weather’s foggy or soggy you might bebetter youmight or soggy weather’s foggy hiking gear andawell-packed lunch. If the decent boots, as alwaysyou’llneed though intwoorthreepeaks canbetackled hours, southeast tothe top of BrownWilly;both summit of Torit’sanother1.5miles Rough summit isrockyandquite Fromthe steep. to the thelastsection easy-going, although ford, alongawell-marked trail;it’sgenerally TorFord,3miles southofat Rough Camel- hill’. Thebestroute headsfromthe car park ruption of schoolkids –BrownWillyisactuallyacor- a perennial sourceof forlocal entertainment name– hump.Despite itssaucy wall’s highest for thetrek to makes Camelford agoodlaunchingwheels, pad town ontheB3266 to Boscastle. bike isamilenorthof frame. Themuseum Chris Boardman’sOlympicmedal-winning velocipedes, fromaclassicpenny-farthing to morehouses than400weirdandwonderful adult/child £2.50/1.50; the can check outthe stone itself. ofthe start ashortwoodlandtrailwhere you bridge explores thevariouslegends, andmarks adult/child £3/2;10am-5pmEaster-Oct) century. The inthelate 9th Saxon kingEgbert andtheCelts marks thesite of adecisive the battlebetween thestonemorelast battle,although probably markingthelocationofsupposedly Arthur’s an inscribedstoneinnearby given furthercredence bythediscovery of river.curving TheArthurconnectionswere derives fromtheCornish site of hislastbattle),butthenameprobably (the Arthur’s mythiccastle)andCamlann linked ( ford hasbeen withbothCamelot King Camelford isalso–bizarrelyCamelford –home to If you’re steadier ontwolegsthan British CyclingMuseum British

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212811; OldStation; ( inSlaughter- Slaughterbridge Slaughterbridge % 01840-213947; meaning , which ,

Corn- 275

, , CORNWALL CORNWALL CORNWALL .jamaicainn.co.uk; s£65,d£70-100; the inn itself duringbusyperiods. the innitself stuck in the concrete annexe ratherthanin findyourself and moorviews,but youmight rier’s day,afew stillhave four-poster beds sinceduMau- ruthlessly modernised been the roomshave Though actor fatherGerald). Maurier brand,of namedafter course, her desk andapackof herfavourite (du ciggies to duMaurier, housingheroriginalwriting ofSmuggling Museum Church.Altarnun yarnsbythelocalparsonsmuggling from and withspookytales she wasentertained sheltering tripandsought intheinn,where lost onthemoorduringanimprompturid- was apparently conceived whenshebecame venture story,published in1936.Thebook thanks to Daphne duMaurier’s classicad- ain’s mostinfamouspubpracticallyovernight Bolventor, the moor, besidetheoldcoaching roadthrough inadesolate spotinthemiddleofStanding the JAMAICA INN&THECENTRALMOOR minutes). Tintagel (15minutes) andontoBoscastle(20 day) travels to alongthecoastfromCamelford hourlyMondaytoSatur-Bus 594(which goes Getting There&Away Camel. River of localbeers, witha gardenbackingontothe goodgrubandtheusualselection that serves This isacream-coloured 18th-centurypub by the owners. mod-cons, andguidedwalkscanbearranged rooms are buthave hardly spectacular allthe Rteoff 3onthe NationalCycleNetwork.The favourite for hikers andbikers, asitsitsjust outskirtsthat’s a ant hotel on Camelford’s Rd;s/d£40/60; openworld.com; Victoria for townand dead cheap. bathroom suites, fadedwallpaper),buthandy itional British style (ancientkettles, dated tion Rd;s/d£20/40; Penlea House Eating & Sleeping Camelford tourist offices. and OSmapsare soldattheBodminand waitingforanotherday.Walkingroutesoff 276 Mason’s Arms Mason’s These days the inn has been joined bya daystheinnhasbeen These Countryman Hotel OMNMO • JmiaIn&teCnrlMo BODMIN MOOR••JamaicaInn&theCentralMoor

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p Jamaica Inn 212194; [email protected]; Sta- ( % ) AsmallB&Binthetrad-

( % 213309; Market Pl;mains£5-9) 213309; Market , with a section devoted devoted , withasection 212250; countrymanhotel@bt

( % p 01566-86250; www ) becameBrit- p ) Apleas-

% 10am-5pm Apr-Jun 10am-4pmOct) &Sep, other friendly beerhouse, withlotsof hand- other friendlybeerhouse, farmhouse sitsinaquietvalleysurroundedby farmhouse a supremely peacefulgetaway. Therambling around sincetheDomesdayBook,andmakes ps curios fromacrosstheglobe. with vintage carpets,booklinedshelves and offers smartlydesignedroomspacked several British explorer Robin-Hanbury Tenison, and isownedbythe track, thisworkingfarmhouse from £60; good overnight stops. lages of StTudyandBlislandmake Altarnun, Other thanJamaica thenearbyvil- Innitself, Sleeping visiting foritsruined11th-century main A30roadis 4-mile walknorthtoBrownWilly. Jamaica forthe Innalsomakes base auseful onlyfourremainstones, although standing. 28 a circularalignmentthatonceenclosed mock of Hawk’s Tor,are the Arthur’s death.Tothewest,nearhum- wasthrownbySirBedivere afterExcalibur, Pool room with dominoes, pool and table skittles. pooland table room with dominoes, steak andthere’s pieandmoussaka, afamily beams; themenufeatures heartyfare including covered badges insidewithbeer andwood thischeery local innis Camra-enthusiasts, 10.95) on theblackboard. corners, pluschicken andchips andchillis pump ales,slate flagstonesandcrannied Sun Rising Eating home-laid eggs. breakfast usinggarden-grown veggies and andasuperhome-grown with avalleysetting B&B oneof ourfavourite BodminMoorbases, and roll-topbaths make cottage thissweet cottage.co.uk; StTudy; r£70-90; and cornicedceilings. fireplaces,wallpaper withdeep stonelintels sheep-filled fields,andtheroomsmixheritage 01566-772365; admission£2; Lavethan Manor Cabilla About amilesouthfromtheinnis On theeastern edge of themooralong Blisland Inn Cottage Polrode Mill tohave, said where been Arthur’s sword, Popular with Camel Trailbikers PopularwithCamel and ) This Grade II–listed house has been hasbeen ThisGradeII–listed house p

( % ) Hiddenawayattheendof aprivate

( Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com %

( 01566-86636; Altarnun;mains£6-8) % (

851387; nearBlisland;s£40-50,d£70-80; % 01208-850739; Blisland;mains£6.95- 821224; www.cabilla.co.uk; Mount;d Launceston

( % p h 850203; www.polrodemill Brass beds,beams ) 10am-6pm Jul&Aug, , mainlyworth . Stripple Stones Stripple castle Dozmary Dozmary An- (EH;

, full events calendar.full events held inthecaverns –check the website fora nean lake. Concertsandlive shows are often cathedral-like caverns subterra- andaneerie runs between Altarnun and Launceston. andLaunceston. Altarnun runs between the225(threethough dailyMondaytoFriday) al- yourownwheels, the moor,soyou’llneed areBuses of almostnonexistent inthissection Getting There&Away Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com graced Brighton’s Regentgraced Brighton’s Cinema. street organ andaWurlitzerthatonceBerlin pianos, a the attractionsinclude self-playing admission £5; ways you’re really stuckforthingstodo, there’s al- travellers ontheLondon–Penzance line. If supplies orasagateway tothemoorfortrain .com; adult/child£6/4; Caverns Carnglaze which once covered much of the moor. by thelastremains of thevastoakwoodland beauty spotandnature surrounded reserve the rushingwaters of churches. Acoupleof mileseastof StNeotare and oneof favourite John Cornish Betjeman’s glass stained medieval withspectacular blessed home toagorgeous 15th-century slate-topped cottages andoverhanging trees, is The serene littlevillage of river valleysalongthemoor’ssouthernedge. burial chambers, almost15fthigh. standing example of Cornwall’sdistinctive Neolithic –another Arthur’s QuoitortheGiant’sHouse Quoit Trethevy erosion. Three milessouth,nearDarite, is of localgiants,butactuallyaresult of natural pillar of tobethework piled-upstonessaid day, whilenearbyisthe playing theCornishsportof hurlingonaSun- to betheremains of menturnedtostonefor monuments. The thesmallvillageback Lake, of Kilmar Tor(396m).Three mileseastof Sibly- Twelve Men’s pointof Moorandthehigh landscape of rocksandgrassland towards acrossanautumn-colouredmoor sweeps ofEast Jamaica InnandDozmary Pool,the LISKEARD &THESOUTHERNMOOR near themoor’smostinteresting prehistoric The area’s maintownis Just tothesouthare theslate caves of Moor andheathgive waytowoodsand Magnificent Music Machines Machines Music Magnificent h –sometimesknownasKing Easter-Oct)

h ( Hurlers % 10am-5pm) 01579-320251; www.carnglaze Golitha Falls , inStKeyne, where Cheesewring , two stone rings said , twostoneringssaid St Neot Liskeard , with a series of, withaseries ( % Minions Minions , acelebrated BODMIN MOOR •• Liskeard &theSouthernMoor BODMINMOOR••Liskeard 01579-343108; , linedwith parish church parish , useful for , useful , astrange stands stands , farmhouse. flavoured accommodationina16th-century just steps fromStNeot,offering cosy,flock- years. It’sstocked withsomeof fin- Britain’s aristocratic Edgcumbedynastyforover 400 times daily on Sunday. (40minutes)lake four via Callington station Bus 190travels toCotehele fromGunnis- away. the restored on localboat-building andriver trade,while National Maritime andhasdisplays Museum dovecote.medieval anda clude bothaVictoriansummerhouse smell. accompanied bymusicandapeculiarherbal figures are thehouse, towanderthrough said ghostlyalso notoriouslyhaunted –several furnituretapestries, andsuitsof armour. It’s hall, anddottedwithimpressive throughout est Tudorinteriors, inthegreat bestseen Sat-Thu Apr-Oct) £8.40/4.20, garden&millonly£5/2.50; Cotehele at Dating fromTudortimes,themanorhouse COTEHELE only businthesouthernmoor. day) fromLiskeard toStNeotisjustabout the dailyMondaytoFri- The 274(fourservices Getting There&Away the baratweekends. a great bar menu;live musicoften livens up slate fireplaces andwood-timbered wallswith in theshadowof StNeotchurch combines with Cornishcharacter, thisoldcoaching inn Gallery andmullionwindows. intheGreat Hallare served withitsMinstrel’s original Victorianfittings,whilecream teas and feature baywindows,enamelbaths and rooms are reached viaawindingstaircase, isanaristocratictreat.manorhouse The Glynn Valley, thisfabulousHogwartsesque p s£60,d£90-100; vean.co.uk; Twowatersfoot,nearLiskeard; .co.uk; StNeot;d£54-56; Lampen Farm Eating & Sleeping Cotehele is7milessouthwestof Tavistock. Outside, thelovely terraced gardensin- London Inn Manor Treverbyn ) Standing ingloriousgroundsabove Standing the

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% ( served as the family seat of the asthefamilyseat served % Cotehele Mill Cotehele

( % 01579-351346; StDominick;adult/child 01579-320284; www.lampenfarm.fsnet 320263; mainsfrom£8)

( % p Cotehele Quay Cotehele 01579-326105; www.treverbyn ) A peaceful farmstay Apeacefulfarmstay isa15-minute walk h ispartof the 11am-4.30pm Packed

277 CORNWALL CORNWALL 278 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com 279 CORNWALL CORNWALL

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