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Sofia Levin discovers that the best restaurants in take inspiration from the SAVOURINGsimplest street food, and Peter Kuruvita shares SRI his take on streetLANKA food staple kottu .

SRI LANKA’S VARIOUS CITIES AND PROVINCES are a jigsaw of verdant tea 1 carrot, finely shredded plantations, lazy coastlines and a bustling capital city, Colombo. But wherever you 1 bunch baby bok choy, blanched, wander, street eats are abundant. There’s plenty of variety in Colombo’s Pettah refreshed, roughly chopped neighbourhood, where tuk tuks jostle with people for space and ornate places of 2 long red chillies, thinly sliced worship are walking distance from the open-air market. Snacks, known as ‘short eats’, 1 tbs chopped peanuts are wheeled by on carts, alongside chilli-laden mango and jackfruit achcharu (pickle). 1/2 tsp dried chilli flakes Despite the heady smells, it’s the clanging of metal on metal that leads me to 1 tsp grated ginger Sri Lanka’s , kottu roti. Kottu translates to ‘chopped’ and the dish involves shredded vegetables, roti and CHILLI DRESSING sometimes protein being diced with two blades resembling pizza dough cutters on 1 tbs chilli oil a hot griddle. It’s Sri Lanka’s answer to pad Thai; a carb-fest packed with flavour for 1/4 cup (60ml) lime juice the equivalent of a few dollars. That explains why Colombo’s party crowd is still lining up for a fix at kottu institution Pilawoos on my way to bed. Even more up-market For roti, melt 1/2 tsp oil in a frypan restaurants such as chef Dharshan Munidasa’s Kaema Sutra offer modern interpretations, over high heat. In batches, cook including a gluten-free kottu made with egg. for 45 seconds each side or until golden. STYLING KIRSTEN JENKINS After I leave the vibrant city and travel through the provinces, I keep my ears open Repeat with another 1/2 tsp coconut oil and for the blunt clang of metal on metal, the soundtrack of kottu roti that I have come remaining paratha. Tear into pieces and to associate with the country. It’s a sound that also stirs memories for Australian-Sri toss with remaining ingredients in a bowl. Lankan chef Peter Kuruvita. “Growing up we had a kottu store across the road, a tiny Season and set aside. place run by generations of the same family. It was about 2am in the morning and the To make , heat coconut oil in a kottu paddles were banging away. Dad got up and said, ‘Right, I’ve had enough!’ He large heavy based frypan over medium went across the road and screamed at the guy, but still came back with kottu,” he says. heat. Cook the onion, garlic and ginger, A healthier version of the traditionally fried dish appears on Kuruvita’s menu at stirring, for 4-5 minutes until softened. Add Noosa Beach House at the Sheraton in Noosa Heads, Queensland, served fresh with curry leaves and stir to combine. Rinse fragrant prawn curry. This is his recipe, a modern interpretation of traditional flavours. prawn heads, then add to pan. Cook for FOOD PHOTOGRAPHY BRETT STEVENS 3-4 minutes, then add spices and chilli, CLOCKWISE (from top left): Pettah SRI LANKAN PRAWN CURRY 2 tbs ground coriander and cook for 1 minute or until fragrant. streetscape with the distinct white SERVES 6 3 small Thai green chillies, chopped Combine stock and milk powder in a and red Jami-Ul- Alfar Mosque in the 3 cups (750ml) fish stock bowl, then add to pan. Increase heat to background; Sri Lankan prawn curry; Peter in the tea fields in Nuwra Ellia; 2 tbs coconut oil 150g powder high and bring to a simmer for 10 minutes a street stall in Galle; Peter on the 1 white onion, finely chopped Juice of 2 limes or until thickened. Remove prawn heads beach in Talpe, Sri Lanka. 5 garlic cloves, crushed Sliced betel leaves or baby spinach and discard. Add prawn meat and cook 3cm piece of ginger, finely grated leaves, toasted coconut flakes and for a further 10 minutes or until prawns 10 fresh curry leaves toasted chopped peanuts, to serve are cooked through. 1kg king prawns, peeled (tails intact), Combine the chilli dressing ingredients deveined, half of prawn heads reserved KOTTU ROTI in a bowl. Season and set aside. 5 pods 1 tsp coconut oil To serve, place prawns in a serving dish PHOTOGRAPHY PRECINCT STUDIOS LOCATION 1 tsp fenugreek seeds 2 paratha (from Indian grocers) and top with kottu roti. Garnish with betel 1 tbs each ground and cumin 1 red onion, sliced leaves, coconut flakes and peanuts. Drizzle 1 tbs sweet smoked paprika (pimenton) 1 cup (50g) finely shredded cabbage with curry sauce and chilli dressing.

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