Travel Africa (Autumn 2014), 'The Sound of Silence'

Botswana silenceThe sound of On a self-drive exploration of Botswana, Anthony Ham records his adventure to the heart of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. Deception Valley, 5pm y rst sight of Deception Valley Kalahari. Whenever I make the BELOW: that runs parallel to his path, south is of golden grasses dancing in slightest sound I wince lest I disturb Meerkat-like, ground along this ancient river valley. We M squirrels also stand on hind the breeze. To the south, islands of the night. I have slept in the Sahara legs to survey the landscape are separated by perhaps 500 metres acacia shelter shy springbok. Nearby, under the stars, but this is lion and TOP RIGHT: at rst, but the distance between us greater kudu consort with gemsbok, leopard country and the night is Both male and female lessens as he moves away from the while the kori bustard, the world’s alive in a way that few deserts truly gemsbok carry the almost acacia canopy and into full view of straight, rapier-like horns heaviest ying bird, pretends that are. Out here, I am utterly alone, used in battle the plain. it has not seen me. To the north, a and the thought thrills and frightens Cheetahs seem to glide, and family of bat-eared foxes watches me in equal measure. I lie very still, leopards pad in stealth. But the from a distance, within sight of scarcely breathing. I remain awake stroll of a lion is an open challenge African ground squirrels that stand, until deep into the night. to the world. One big paw a er like meerkats, on their hind legs, another strikes the earth, the walk of taking in the last warmth from the a creature with nothing to fear. Dr setting sun. Paul Funston, the Senior Director of From noon and for hours Panthera’s African Lion Project and therea er the Kalahari had Deception Valley, 6am a Kalahari specialist, once told me possessed all the charm of an lthough I did not hear them in that most of the myths surrounding over-exposed photograph, all Athe night, lionesses and cubs Kalahari lions may not be true, but colour leeched from the day by have passed by, leaving footprints they do, of necessity, cover much the dry-season sun. Now there is within metres of where I greater distances at night than their magic in the air: the land has slept. Now, at rst light, a lion cousins elsewhere. Kalahari lions turned golden, animals roars down in the valley. The have some of the largest known are everywhere, and the mournful call dri s out across territories of any lions on earth. darkening thickets of the Kalahari. I wait for him The distance between us thorn scrub, of Terminaria to appear. narrows. The springbok and sericea and the Kalahari In time, from behind the gemsbok grazing the valley oor do apple-leaf tree, have become wall of trees far across the east not run on seeing the lion – a lion charged with the potential of side of Deception Valley, a in sight is preferable to one lurking predators emerging from the male emerges. Such a sight, in the shadows. Even so, they stand shade to hunt. in the clear light of morning, alert and ready; it is clear from the Darkness falls, and with is one of the nest in nature. lion’s stroll that he is not hunting. ALL IMAGES: ANTHONY HAM it comes the silence of the I drive slowly along a track Just in case, they dri away, judging 116 Autumn 2014 | Travel Africa P116-117 KALAHARI CR.indd 116 03/10/2014 18:13.

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