Impressionsamara Private Game Reserve Learning Nature’S Sign Language the Language Is, of Course, and Largely Unintelligible
skills development
a lasting impressionsamara private game reserve Learning nature’s sign language The language is, of course, and largely unintelligible. But for Text & photographs john yeld called tracking, and its ‘alphabet’ Karel Benadie, more popularly consists of myriad signs and sym- known as ‘Oom Pokkie’ and one bols in the form of tracks, spoor, of fewer than 10 formally certified It’s late February and still swelteringly hot in the Great Karoo. prints, impressions, scratches, master trackers in South Africa, excavations, burrowings, bulges, interpreting these tracks is as easy Most of the ephemeral pools and puddles left by recent thunder- incisions and protrusions left by and informative as reading his lo- above The beautiful storms have already dried and the mud has started to crack. Physi- paw, pad, hoof, claw, tail, tooth, cal knock-and-drop newspaper. Great Karoo landscape at skin or feather. The other ‘graph- Recently, BirdLife South Africa Samara Private Nature cally etched into the dusty earth fabric of this semi-arid region are eme of the veld’, and probably the was privileged to watch Oom (Un- Reserve near Graaff-Reinet scores of stories – real-life stories of what the local birds, animals, easiest to read, is dung, ranging in cle) Pokkie demonstrate his aston- in the Eastern Cape. shape and size from small heaps ishing tracking skills while training insects and reptiles have been doing and of how they have inter- of neatly pointed droppings to big students on part of the 27 000- opposite The tracks of a acted with or tried to avoid each other. You just have to be able to messy piles. hectare Samara Private Game Re- Cape Turtle Dove etched in For most urban dwellers, this serve near Graaff-Reinet in the the Karoo mud. read the language in which these particular stories are written. Tlanguage of the veld is mysterious Eastern Cape. Here, at one point >
48 african birdlife may/june 2016 TRACKER ACADEMY 49 Alex also points out that the ancient tracking academy has a long-standing re- skills ... have lationship with BirdLife South Africa. disappeared at an The academy started operations alarming rate in at Samara in January 2010, with Oom Pokkie as principal trainer. southern Africa His wife of 17 years, Janetta Bock- and the academy is Benadie, was initially a camp seeking to reverse attendant, but she quickly obtained her own accreditation as a tracker that trend and assessor and is now respons ible for the facilitation and assess- Other than those who spent Master tracker Karel during a field exercise, he pointed its tummy feathers a bit wet. Look, during the past half century or so, ment of all the theory components time herding cattle as young boys, ‘Oom Pokkie’ Benadie out to his students marks etched you can clearly see the mark its one ancient tracking skills – ‘an indig- of the academy’s skills programme. few of the students entering the leads tracker students into the dried mud on a gravel leg made here!’ he says, pointing enous art form that evolved for Annually, 16 students in two Tracker Academy had a reason- Academy’s Londolozi field campus clockwise, from Weaven Fourie, track. To the uninitiated, it was just to a nondescript line in the dried reasons of human survival’ – have groups of eight are chosen from be- able birding knowledge before for the past four years and from top left The lovely Sakhile Sibiya and a dry, dusty mess. But he read it mud. And as he explains the mess disappeared at an alarming rate in tween 150 and 250 applicants. Four starting the year-long course, ac- 2016 he’ll be conducting courses heart-shaped track of Jerry Sibiya on a field very differently, immediately see- in the mud is miraculously trans- southern Africa and the academy is of the current intake are from Mpu- cording to Alex. However, they at both Londolozi and Samara. the majestic kudu; a exercise at Samara. ing the foot imprints that allowed formed into a mental image of the seeking to reverse that trend. ‘Our malanga, three are from KwaZulu- all emerge as competent birders Professor Derek Engelbrecht of tracker student points him both to identify the subject world’s heaviest flying bird, razor- over-arching vision is to restore Natal and one is from Middelburg thanks to the efforts of a number the Department of Biodiversity at to the delicate paw as a Kori Bustard and to under- sharp beak agape in the sweltering indigenous knowledge in Africa in the Great Karoo. Previously there of specialists. the University of Limpopo usual- prints of a striped stand the context of the bird using heat and droplets of muddy wa- and our aim is to empower tracker have been students from Namibia, Such specialists have included ly accompanies Joe on his training polecat; tracks made this spot while it was still full of ter cascading off its creamy belly graduates to become ambassadors Zambia, Mozambique and Bot- BirdLife South Africa’s Special visits to Londolozi. In addition, by a Kori Bustard in rainwater. feathers as it tried to cool off in the for the growing African wildlife swana. After a six-month semester Projects Programme Manager the academy has started a project the drying Karoo mud; ‘So maybe it was sitting in the wa- now evaporated Karoo puddle. industry by bringing authenticity at Samara in the arid Great Karoo, Martin Taylor, who was respon- in association with Derek that in- the neat pile of drop- ter for a while to get cool, making and accuracy to environmental meeting place of four of South Afri- sible for outreach programmes volves recording bird alarm calls pings left by a kudu. om Pokkie is teaching the education, wildlife protection, eco- ca’s eight biomes, the students move where several of the tracker stu- in response to different predators. students the art of track- tourism, monitoring and research,’ to Londolozi in the bushveld biome dents were trained. Taylor, lead ‘Renias Mhlongo at Londolozi ing at the aptly named says Alex. for a second semester. ‘By doing editor of the 2015 Eskom Red Data is very skilful at interpreting bird OTracker Academy, a training divi- The academy is the first and as that, we’re giving them a learning Book of Birds of South Africa, Le- alarm calls,’ explains Alex. ‘We sion of the South African College yet only specialist tracker training experience in two very different en- sotho and Swaziland, is currently want to measure his knowledge Johannesburg of Tourism in Graaff-Reinet that school to achieve formal accred vironments,’ says Janetta. responsible for the compilation as well as record the calls for a operates under the auspices of itation in South Africa. Its training of the 2016 State of South Africa’s library I’m creating. So, with the the Peace Parks Foundation. Co- programme is accredited by the lex tells me that some 15 to Birds Report. aim of understanding bird “lan- SOUTH AFRICA founder and manager Alex van den Culture, Arts, Tourism, Hospital- 20 per cent of the course is Exceptional birder, trainer and guage” better, Tracker Academy Heever explains that the academy ity and Sport Sector Education and devoted to birds and bird- conservationist Joe Grosel con- has joined forces with Professor Eastern Cape trains unemployed rural people Training Authority and its Tracker ing.A ‘The students do a lot more ducts two week-long bird courses Engelbrecht to formally docu- Graaff-Reinet in the traditional skills of animal and Lead Tracker certificates are birding at Londolozi, as one of the for the students. Joe, who is also ment bird alarm calls. As far as tracking for employment in the endorsed by the Field Guides As- trainers there, Renias Mhlongo, is a chairman of BirdLife Polokwane, I’m aware, this is the first project Cape Town ecotourism industry. Particularly sociation of Southern Africa. very enthusiastic and skilful birder.’ has trained the students at the of its type.’ >
50 african birdlife may/june 2016 TRACKER ACADEMY 51 ut in the veld, Oom Pok role. Part of their training routine During a lighter moment when AS NATURE INTENDED kie is passing on a life- involves the pair of them finding the conversation has strayed mo- ward-winning Samara Private Game Reserve is a time’s knowledge to the the tracks of two or three species mentarily from tracking, Oom Atop-end nature-tourism destination, created over Ostudents. Now 53, he was born on close together, marking the area Pokkie suggests to his charges – the past dozen years through the purchase of 11 former the farm Stoltzhoek in the Beau- by drawing a circle in the sand, all young men – that they need to sheep farms totalling 27 000 hectares. The dream of fort West district that was later and then calling up the students in learn from birds ‘how to approach owners Sarah and Mark Tompkins – to combine enough acquired as a core property for the pairs to identify the tracks. The stu- the ladies’. And the nonplussed land to restore a self-sustaining ecosystem in this beauti- Karoo National Park established in dents write their answers in their students watch as he launches ful semi-arid landscape, including all naturally occurring 1979. His nickname was bestowed notebooks that are then checked into a lively impression of one of prey and predators – is close to reality. on him at birth by an uncle because by Bright. On this occasion, six the extraordinary mating dances Manager of the Tracker Academy Alex van den Heever it was a cold winter’s day with snow of them manage to identify both of the male birds of paradise of praises the couple for their ‘pioneering effort’. ‘What (kapok in Afrikaans) on the moun- species – a guineafowl and a ba- New Guinea. Afterwards, by way were bankrupt sheep farms operating against the tains and kapokbossies (the wild boon – correctly, even though the of explanation, he reveals that he natural Karoo system is now a thriving wildlife area. The rosemary shrub Eriocephalus afri- tracks are somewhat obscured. ‘It’s has a video clip on his computer maturing landscape has enabled a whole host of indig- canus) with their small, white flow- a bit confused,’ Oom Pokkie agrees, enous birds and animals to flourish,’ he says. ers in full bloom. ‘but look, you can see the toenails ... he launches into More than 220 bird species have been recorded on He learnt some of his tracking of the guineafowl and the pad and a lively impression Samara, which is very close to the 22 710-hectare Camde- skills from his father, who earned the toes of the baboon. [This track] boo Important Bird Area (IBA) that surrounds the town a living setting gin-traps in the veld is too big for a vervet monkey. A of one of the extra- of Graaff-Reinet. Globally Threatened species occurring for black-backed jackals and cara- baboon has four lobes on a long, ordinary mating in this IBA are the Blue Crane, Kori Bustard, Secretarybird, cal in an era when Karoo farmers square pad – like your hand but dances of the male Ludwig’s Bustard, Martial Eagle and Black Harrier, while had zero tolerance for so-called just a bit smaller.’ Regionally Threatened species include Verreaux’s Eagle, problem animals. ‘When I was Next they isolate some tracks Birds of Paradise of Karoo Korhaan and Lanner Falcon. about 10 to 12 years old I used to and scratch marks in dried mud, New Guinea walk out in the veld with him,’ he and repeat the process. ‘Cape Tur- albert froneman recalls. ‘I really grew up in the veld tle Dove and a swallow collecting not always in conservation, while above The world’s – I never liked sitting in one place mud,’ Oom Pokkie whispers to us others were unemployed. But you heaviest flying bird, or at home. And then from the age while the students puzzle over the see them start to settle down after the Kori Bustard, of about 18 to 20 years, I started to sand. ‘Always after rain you see a month or so.’ leaves its signature teach myself to really look at spoor these signs around.’ Most of his Settle down they certainly do on the ground for and I just got more and more in- students are also up to both this and, since 2010, 69 of the Acad- student trackers to terested in it, learning to see what challenge and the next one – tracks emy’s 74 graduates have found ponder later. others don’t. I got increasingly bet- made by a frog and a Cape Glossy permanent employment in the ter at it and went through the (cer- Starling. ‘Okay, well done, guys,’ conservation industry. Another left ‘Oom Pokkie’ tification) grades, and then in 2007 he says, and then adds matter-of- eight students will graduate at the Benadie gives an im- I became a master tracker.’ factly: ‘I know these things like the end of May 2016. promptu rendition of Before joining the academy, back of my hand, it’s not difficult Samara owner Sarah Tompkins the mating dance of a Oom Pokkie worked for South Af- for m e .’ says they’re ‘delighted’ to have male bird of paradise, rican National Parks (SANParks) The students are also required been part of the academy’s found- watched by his stu- for 33 years, based at the Karoo to learn 100 bird calls during their ing and to host its operation. She dent Jerry Sibiya. National Park. His experience and first semester and Janetta proudly describes Oom Pokkie as ‘a rare reputation as a tracker saw SAN- points out that, only a few weeks and extraordinary educator’ and Parks calling on him in June 2015 into the course, they’re already Janetta as ‘a great mother figure’ to help find the three-year-old lion at 40. But that doesn’t mean they to the students. that escaped from the park and don’t make mistakes with those 40. Janetta, in turn, says that watch- evaded capture for three weeks. He Out in the veld, one student hears featuring these birds with David anetta says it’s not always easy ing their students progress and found the animal, but it was a job a bird call in the bush. ‘A Greater Attenborough’s narration. for the new students at Sa- acquire real skills and leadership that drew on all his experience and Honeyguide?’ he suggests, but Tracking is not just about look- Jmara. ‘They’re far from home, ability is both immensely reward- ability. ‘That was interesting for Oom Pokkie, who knows his birds, ing at spoor on the ground, he they have to share [accommoda- ing and also ‘a little bit humbling’ me, a good experience, to follow a quickly corrects him: ‘That was emphasises to the students. ‘You tion, four to a dormitory], it’s a for her and her husband. ‘We go spoor for so long!’ he recalls. a Bokmakierie!’ The crestfallen must be free, relaxed, aware of new environment, new weather, to bed and sleep well at night, In the field at Samara, Oom Pok- student remarks sadly, ‘Now I’m what’s going on around you and and there’s a lot of work to do. knowing we’ve been able to make kie is supported by Bright Masiye, deurmekaar (confused)!’ and his using not just your eyes but also Some of them have some tracking a change in these people’s lives an academy graduate from Lily- mentor, clearly not one inclined your other senses. You must feel experience they got while work- and also in the lives of their rela- dale village in Mpumalanga, who to mollycoddle, agrees: ‘Ja, you’re happy, relaxed – that’s the secret ing with cattle, but others not. tives. No pay cheque can match is being mentored for a leadership deurmekaar.’ to tracking.’ Some have work experience but t h at .’ samara private game reserve
52 african birdlife may/june 2016 TRACKER ACADEMY 53