Effect of Fiber Content on Comfort Properties of Cotton/Spandex
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SSRG International Journal of Polymer and Textile Engineering (SSRG-IJPTE) – Volume X Issue Y–Month 2018 Effect of Fiber Content on Comfort Properties of Cotton/Spandex, Rayon/Spandex, and Polyester/Spandex Single Jersey Knitted Fabrics Shuvo Kumar Kundu#1, Usha Chowdhary*2 #Graduate Student, * Professor, Fashion Merchandising and Design, Central Michigan University 228 EHS, Central Michigan University, Mount Pleasant, MI 48858, USA 1 [email protected] 2 [email protected] Abstract transmission of cotton–synthetic blend ([1]- [3]). Comfort influences consumers’ buying Stretch in cotton can be incorporated by knit decision regarding textile and apparel product. In this construction and blending with spandex. Polyester and study, comfort related properties of three different rayon (viscose) are also commonly used fabrics in single jersey knit fabrics were tested. All fabrics had apparel that can have enhanced stretch through knit 5% spandex as a common factor. Spandex was structure and addition of spandex. blended with cotton, rayon and polyester. Three Comfort can be function of several structural comfort related attributes studied for the investigation and performance attributes [2]. Structural attributes were stretch and recovery, air permeability and could include fiber content and fabric construction. horizontal wicking. Presence of spandex in knitted Spandex is an elastomeric fiber and adds comfort structure expected to enhance stretch and recovery through its stretching ability ([4], [5]). Knits offer hence flexibility and comfort in garments. Therefore, higher stretch than woven materials. Knit with the purpose of this study was to determine the spandex can provide added comfort for the wearer. influence of cotton, rayon and polyester on selected Performance attributes such as air permeability, comfort properties of textile materials. ANOVA and t- stretch and recovery, and wicking ability in textiles test were used to test the hypotheses. Findings add comfort by letting the air to pass through easily, revealed significant differences among three types of stretching the garment with reasonable recovery knits. Results can be used by textile and apparel during body movements, and spreading the water in professionals, retailer, and consumers alike. Research the surrounding areas and reduce clamminess. can be extended to include additional structural and Therefore, the purpose of the reported study was to performance variables. determine the impact of fiber content and fabric thickness on air permeability, stretch and recovery, Keywords — Knit, Single Jersey, Cotton, Rayon, and wicking. Polyester, Spandex, Comfort, Air Permeability, Stretch and Recovery, Count, Wicking, Thickness, II. LITERATURE REVIEW Fabric Weight. Previous research conducted in the area of investigation includes seven categories. The seven I. INTRODUCTION categories are fiber content, fabric construction, fabric Cotton is known for its exceptional comfort thickness, comfort, air permeability, stretch and properties and contributes 40% of total fiber recovery, and wicking. consumption worldwide. However, easy care is not a Rayon is manufactured textile that is function of 100% cotton. Blending cotton with obtained from the regenerated cellulose derived from different fibers such as polyester, rayon, and acrylic different cellulosic sources as plants and linters. can enhance its durability and ease of care. Even Researchers stated that Rayon was the first manmade though moisture absorbency of cotton makes it good fiber with many properties similar to cotton and silk conductor of heat and electricity, it makes the sweat to [4]. However, it swells and loses strength when leave the fabric quickly. Combining it with fiber wet. Although rayon has several advantages such as contents that have better wicking helps with moisture luster and low cost, it can baffle the consumer due to management in cotton. Different blends like cotton– the diverse terms (i.e. wood silk, artificial silk) used to polyester, cotton–acrylic, and cotton–nylon knitted define the product. Rayon is also known as viscose fabrics in terms of their moisture characteristics and fiber. noticed a remarkable increment in water vapor ISSN: 2394 - 2592 www.internationaljournalssrg.org Page 1 SSRG International Journal of Polymer and Textile Engineering (SSRG-IJPTE) – Volume X Issue Y–Month 2018 Spandex is a synthetic fiber also known as permeability is preferred because the heat and sweat Lycra or Elastane. It is famous for its exclusive transfer from human body to the atmosphere depends elasticity and higher strength than the natural rubber. on it ([23], [24]). Air permeable fabric is hygienic Several scholars found that inclusion of spandex to the since it let the dampness pass out of human body let single jersey knitted fabric resulted in increased stitch fresh air in ([23], [25]). Researchers found that the density, fabric thickness, and fabric weight ([3], [6], extract of extra perspiration from the body increases [7]). A limited research focused on comfort properties the level of comfort. Therefore, higher air of knitted materials blended with newly manufactured permeability means better comfort in warm and humid fibers like spandex. Most of the prior studies examined weather [16]. changes in dimensional and physical characteristics of Thickness is the distance between two the knitted fabrics only. With presence of spandex, surfaces of the fabric and it is generally express in fabric stretched in the knitting zone during millimeters (mm) or inches. Regardless fiber type manufacturing. Knitted fabric with spandex yarns researchers found negative relationship between usually results in a tight structure because after taking- thickness and air permeability ([23], [26]). Other off from knitting machine fabric become relaxed and researchers found inverse relation of air permeability yarn squeezed, which changes loop shape, stitch to water vapor permeability and porosity of the knitted length and loop geometry. Researchers reported that fabrics ([23], [27]). knitted fabric with spandex yarn stretches more than Fabric weight is the mass per unit area one without it [8]. This added stretch makes the fabric (meter2) of fabric in metric system and it is expressed to be more resilient and resistant to snagging, fiber in gram/m2. Fabric weight (GSM= gram per square fatigue and pin holing. Consequently, fabric becomes meter) precisely depends on the knitted structure and more useful for multiple purposes. A study found that stitch length [10]. The researchers also asserted that mixing Spandex with natural or regenerated fibers in finished products always have higher values than the fabrics used for children’s clothing helps with unfinished textiles. They also observed that single boosting the body comfort from enhanced movement jersey knitted structure ranked lowest in finished GSM adaptation [9]. and width among all knitted structures they considered The utilization of knitted fabric in the whereas Double Lacoste ranked top for same clothing industry is increasing at a constant rate due to attributes. several advantages of the knitted structure [10]. Wicking is the natural transportation of liquid Researchers stated that the American consumers’ by capillary force through the pores of fabric surface desire for knit fabrics has grown steadily since the and results of continuous wetting of textile surface 1970 [11]. Knitted fabrics are famous for many through the capillary system [28]. Researchers stated significant attributes such as clothing comfort, soft that high wicking rate of the textile materials can hand, conformity of fit with body structure, flexibility, move sweat very quickly from human skin and lightweight, easy production techniques, easy care, transmit it to the outer surface of the fabric that results low cost, and wide product range ([6], [7], [12]- [14]). in higher level of comfort to the wearer due to The term “comfort” is defined as “the dissipating cooling [29]. Study argued that wicking absence of unpleasantness or discomfort” or “a neutral only occurs when the fabric is wet and the process state compared to the more active state” ([15], [16]). continues as long as capillary action between wet Researchers reported comfort as the most important yams or fibers exists [30]. Wetting and wicking attribute that influences consumers’ purchase decision behaviors of textile influence the moisture and thermal regarding textile products [17]. Comfort is of three comfort. kinds: sensorial (tactile) comfort, psychological Researcher defined stretch and recovery as comfort and thermo-physiological comfort ([16], [18]- “The ability of a stretch fabric to recover after [20]). Another study reported that thermo- stretching depends on the tension in the component physiological comfort sensations are divided into yarns and on the friction and interlocking forces major three groups: thermal and moisture sensations, between yarns and fibres or filaments within the tactile sensations and pressure sensations [8]. Clothing fabric” [31] .The stretch and recovery properties of the attributes like air permeability, heat transfer, moisture knitted fabric are responsible for the pressure management ([16], [21]) and wetness [22] determined generated by garments. Knitted structures have some thermo-physiological comfort. inclusive [32]. Stretch and recovery properties of Air permeability is one of the most crucial, knitted fabric has an impact in body comfort and fit. directly responsible attributes of textile materials