The History of Fabric & Textiles

Textiles are defined as the yarns that are woven or knitted to make fabrics. The use of textiles links the myriad cultures of the world and defines the way they clothe themselves, adorn their surroundings and go about their lives. Textiles have been an integral part of human daily life for thousands of years, with the first use of textiles, most likely felt, dates back to the late Stone Age, roughly 100,000 years ago. However, the earliest instances of cotton, silk and linen being to appear around 5,000 BC in India, Egypt and China. The ancient methods of manufacturing textiles, namely plain weave, satin weave and twill, have changed very little over the centuries. Modern manufacturing speed and capacity, however, have increased the rate of production to levels unthinkable even 200 years ago.

Trade of textiles in the ancient world occurred predominantly on the Silk Road, a winding route across lower Asia that connected the Mediterranean lands with the Far East. Spanning over 5,000 miles and established during the Han Dynasty in China around 114 BC, the Silk Road was an integral part of the sharing of manufactured goods, cultures and philosophies, and helped develop the great civilizations of the world. During the Middle Ages, simple clothing was favored by the majority of people, while finer materials such as silks and linens were the trappings of royalty and the rich. During the 14th century, however, advances in dyeing and tailoring accelerated the spread of fashion throughout Western Europe, and drastically altered the mindset of both wealthy man and commoner alike. Clothing and draperies became increasingly elaborate over the next several centuries, although production methods remained largely unchanged until the invention of steam-powered mechanized facilities during the Industrial Revolution. From that point on, quality textiles became available to the masses at affordable prices.

Textiles can be derived from several sources: animals, plants and minerals are the traditional sources of materials, while petroleum-derived synthetic fibers were introduced in the mid-20th century. By far, animal textiles are the most prevalent in human society, and are commonly made from furs and hair. Silk, wool, and pashmina are all extremely popular animal textiles. Plant textiles, the most common being cotton, can also be made from straw, grass and bamboo. Mineral textiles include glass fiber, metal fiber and asbestos. The recent introduction of synthetic textiles has greatly expanded the array of options available for fabric manufacturers, both in terms of garment versatility and usability. Polyester, spandex, nylon and acrylic are all widely used synthetic textiles.

In addition to the multitude of textiles available for use, there are many different methods for creating fabrics from textiles. Weaving is performed using a loom, typically a rectangular frame on which strands of fibers are hung and interlaced with other fibers. Knitting involves interlacing strands of yarn with the use of a needle, and is typically done by hand, while weaving is largely mechanized. Lacing is performed using a backing piece to create finer fabrics with open holes throughout the piece. Interlacing a yarn through an existing piece of woven cloth results in a layer known as a pile, which is prominent in the manufacture of carpets and velvet. Finally, and by far the oldest technique, is felting, which involves squeezing a mat of fibers together in a liquid to create a tangled, flat material.

Textiles can also be colored using a variety of techniques, including weaving together fibers of differing colors, bleaching to create a pure white look, stitching colored yarn through existing fabric, the use of resist dyeing, and many other ways of printing directly onto finished fabric. Modern dyeing methods can create fabrics of almost any color or pattern imaginable.

COTTON FABRIC INFORMATION

Cotton is the most prevalent fiber in the world. Renowned for its breathability, strength and versatility, cotton has helped shape the history of the world by clothing and protecting countless civilizations and adventurers from the effects of nature.

Derived in name from the Arabic “qutn”, cotton grows in a round boll around the seeds of the cotton plant, a thorned shrub belonging to the Malvaceae family of the genus Gossypium. Cotton is believed to have been first cultivated and spun by the Indus Valley Civilization around 4,000 B.C. Well before the emergence of Christianity, the manufacture of cotton was widespread throughout India and the Mediterranean. Arab traders introduced fine cotton fabrics to Italy and Spain the in 1st century, and the Moors brought cotton production to Spain in the 9th century. Cotton reached the shores of England in the 1600s, as the East India Company began importing delicate textiles from India.

India fell from prominence in cotton production by the 18th Century as the Industrial Revolution in Europe greatly increased cotton processing and the East India Company increasingly relied on India merely as a source of the raw material. Automated processes for separating the cotton boll from its barbed enclosure were greatly improved with the development of the cotton gin by Eli Whitney in 1793. Cotton fabric began to be produced almost exclusively in Northern Europe, to be later exported to the colonies from which the cotton fibers originated. During the US Civil War, cotton farming provided the money needed to sustain the Southern Confederacy, and after he war, previously blockaded American exports bounced back immediately due to their lower cost and excellent quality.

Today, cotton production is a billion-dollar industry. The incorporation of cotton is used in everything from personal hygiene products to hospital blankets. While the United States had historically been the world’s leading producer of cotton, today that title is held by China, which produces over 7.6 million tons of cotton annually. Cotton requires a sunny environment with moderate rainfall and little frost, resulting in large amounts of cotton grown in India, China, Egypt and the Southeastern United States.

Why is cotton so incredibly popular? Its fibers are highly porous, making cotton clothing light and breathable, but able to be woven into any desired density. This quality also enables cotton fabric to be dyed easily, making it a natural choice for designers. Cotton fabric is available in a plentitude of varieties, such as supremely soft and luxurious Sea Island and Pima coton, rugged and durable corduroy industrial strength canvas, light and chic voile and organdy, and lustrous sateen and velvet. Cotton fabric is especially soft and pleasing to the touch; and, since it is derived naturally, those with sensitive skin are able to wear the fiber without any adverse reactions. Cotton is also a fabric that responds well to sewing: it has a slight give, but is not difficult to handle, like Spandex or lycra. Its drape conforms well to the curves of the body, which makes it a brilliant choice for women’s garments. Cotton fabric is also a hugely popular choice for undergarments: it naturally wicks away moisture while retaining breathability. Cotton does not require the maintenance of silk or other fabrics: it does not need to be dry-cleaned and will not be ruined in a rainstorm. However, because the cotton fibers are so porous, shrinkage of the material is a possibility.

It is always recommended to wash cotton first before beginning any sewing endeavor. For beginners and experts alike, cotton fabric is a natural choice for fine garments, dresses, pants, shirts, baby clothing, and any other project requiring a gentle touch and long-lasting wearability.

COLOR DYEING INFORMATION

Colors often taken for granted in the 21st century were considered wonders a hundred years ago. In fact, for most of civilization, clothing colors were limited to plant-based colors such as drab browns and watery grays. Only aristocrats were able to afford bold colors such as carmine red and royal purple, colors so expensive to import from faraway lands that they immediately marked the wearer as being of high station (hence the reason royal purple really indicated the wearer as being royalty). Dye was such a coveted commodity that one of the principle assets Marco Polo planned on exporting from his travels in India was indigo, a deep blue color. Scientists, eager to capitalize on peoples’ desire for vivid wardrobe colors, started developing synthetic equivalents for animal and plant-based dyes, allowing the beauty of color to be accessed by everyone.

In 1857, a German chemist named Dr. August F. W. Partz applied for two US patents for machines used in his attempt to create magenta dye at his Brooklyn plant. His efforts were unsuccessful, but paved the way for the Holliday Chemical and Color Company which produced magenta in three shades: Empire Red, Keystone, and Bay State. The Holliday business was located in Brooklyn, NY, and was considered to set the standard for the other major dye houses in the area. Some of the largest dye houses located in New York City included:

1. The 12th Street Plant in South Brooklyn had its own dock and rail system and produced a bluish-green water-soluble indigo

2. The Beckers Aniline and Chemical Works was the largest dye manufacturing company in the United States and was located in Flatbush, Brooklyn. Its owner was one of the wealthiest industrialists in the era.

3. Zobel Color Works produced a wide range of colors from methyl violet to sulfur black and was located at 2nd Avenue and 9th Street in Brooklyn

4. H. Kohnstamm and Company was located near the lower tip of Manhattan and speciliazed in high- class colors for automobiles.

5. Williamsburg Chemical Company located at 250 Morgan Ave, Brooklyn, specialized in rich, sulfur black.

6. Commonwealth Color and Chemical Company specialized in direct dyes for other fibers beside cotton and was located on Nevins Street in Brooklyn.

COTTON BATISTE FABRIC INFORMATION

Batiste is a plain weave, very soft, lightweight, opaque fabric, made from cotton, wool, polyester or a blend of threads. Batiste does not receive an acid wash during manufacturing, and therefore is not transparent like organdy. The fabric is thicker than lawn, and is often mercerized to add shine. Material referred to as Imperial batiste is a blend of cotton and polyester, while plain batiste is most often derived from cotton or wool. Another variety of the fabric is satin batiste produced with a satin weave that adds significant luster to the material.

Batiste is used extensively in childrens’ and baby clothes due to its delicate touch and extremely soft hand. The tremendously breathable material is a favorite for smocking and heirloom pieces, as well as lingerie and other special occasion garments. Despite its delicate appearance, batiste is fairly durable, able to be machine washed and tumble dried on low.

SILK FABRIC INFORMATION

Silk fabric is widely regarded as the most luxurious textile on the planet. Its tumultuous history, rife with wars, secrecy, and centuries of trade, bears little resemblance to the fabric’s current reputation for being the epitome of high fashion.

The most abundant form of silk, a natural protein fiber, is cultivated from the cocoon of mulberry silkworm larvae. Silkworms lay eggs on special paper and eat only fresh mulberry leaves. Thirty-five days after hatching, the silkworms begin spinning their cocoons. Each cocoon yields 1,000 yards of raw silk thread, which is then spun to produce a “yarn” of silk. The process is time-consuming and delicate, which explains the high cost of silk. The fiber gets its brilliant shimmer from its structure, a triangular prism that reflects light at varying angles.

Another variant of silk, “wild silk”, is produced by caterpillars other than the mulberry silkworm, and can be harvested in captivity much like traditional silk. The color and texture of wild silk tends to differ from the cultivated variety, and the fibers are typically shorter, due to damage by the emerging moth. To preserve the long, silken strands of fiber in cultivated cocoons, the larvae inside is typically pierced with a needle, and the cocoon is unraveled without damage.

Silk’s textile origins date back to 6000 BC, when the wife of the Yellow Emperor, Xi Ling-Shi, went for a walk among damaged mulberry trees and noticed glistening threads attached to worms eating the plant’s leaves. Historians disagree about how long it took before Xi Ling-Shi realized the silkworms cocoons could be harvested into silk, but one version recounts the Empress dropping a cocoon into her tea and watching it unravel into silken threads. China maintained a monopoly on silk trade for thousands of years and orchestrated an intricate and famous trade system eventually extending as far west as Europe and Africa, which was known as the Silk Road. High-quality silk was also produced in Thailand, India and eventually Western Europe, but the material wasn’t introduced to America until the 17th century; early settlers simply could not afford the expensive cloth. Synthetics were later developed as a substitute for the luxurious feel of silk fabric, but they dyed poorly and lacked the shimmering quality of silk’s light-refracting prisms.

Today, silk fabrics are prevalent in every country: from Indian saris to French couture gowns, it has pervaded all cultures. Its low conductivity keeps one warm in the winter, while its great absorbency wicks moisture away during summer. The feel of silk fabric is unmistakable: smooth and luxurious, the fabric ripples like the surface of water. This quality makes it especially suitable for sexy lingerie and elegant dresses. It is a fabric reserved for special occasions, a cloth meant to enhance a moment.

SILK/COTTON BLEND FABRIC INFORMATION

Silk/cotton fabric is a blend of both fibers, combining positive characteristics of each into a single textile. A lightweight, silky and comfortable weave, silk cotton fabric has a soft hand-feel and a sturdy, silken drape, along with a versatility that makes it suitable for an extended variety of garment uses. Silk/cotton fabric is durable enough to be machine washed and hung dry, but dry cleaning is recommended.

WOOL FABRIC INFORMATION

Wool is a natural fiber, shorn primarily from sheep as well as goats and llamas, that has long been used to create warm and durable clothing and blankets. Modern uses of wool extend beyond winter attire, as wool can be found in carpeting, insulation, felt and luxury suits.

Wool is different than fur: it has characteristic bends, or crimps, along the fiber, has the capacity to stretch when woven and grows in clusters known as staples. The crimps let the fibers bunch together, which results in a bulkier material that also acts as a superior insulator. Fine wool, such as Merino, may have dozens of crimps per inch, while rougher wools may only have a handful. Wool fabric has the unique ability to stretch much further than silk, cotton, or other natural fibers and regains its original shape after being stretched. It has an extremely high absorbency rate and is flame retardant, which makes it useful in firefighters’ uniforms and carpeting in trains and airplanes. Wool also does not build up static cling; the fabric will not cling to the body or produce a spark. Wool is naturally absorbent, and can absorb almost 1/3 of its own weight.

Wool has existed since the domestication of sheep and goats, and wool fabric was readily available to the general populace long before silk or cotton, fabrics that were considered luxuries reserved for the upper classes. Wool was one of the most prominent trading goods of medieval times and greatly impacted Europe’s economy. England became central to the production of wool fabric beginning in the 1200’s, and its protectionism of the material only grew throughout the ensuing centuries. England guarded her wool furiously; American colonies were forbidden to trade wool with anyone but England. Today, of the one billion sheep in the world, only thirty million are in England. Australia, New Zealand and China have emerged as the producers of the majority of wool in the market. Through selective breeding and improvements to the fibers, over 60% of today’s wool production is used for apparel.

Wool is put through a time-honored cleaning and classification process in order to ready it for weaving. Grease wool, or the wool straight off the sheep, contains lanolin, dirt, skin cells and various other particles, and must be cleaned by hand and subsequently in a soapy bath. The lanolin retrieved in this process is popular is lotions and hand creams. The cleaned wool is separated and the fluffy fleece is set aside from the other, less valuable remnants. Fleece of varying qualities are then sorted into similar groups and packaged for sale. The quality of wool is determined by the crimps, fiber diameter, color and strength, with the fiber diameter being the most important factor. A wool fiber with a diameter of less than 25 microns is considered fine and suitable for garment use, while the thicker grades are relegated to carpeting, insulation and rugs.

Wool fabric has come a long way from the scratchy, oversize sweaters of the past. Superfine Merino wool makes ultra-expensive suits, while synthetic blends such as silk/wool or cotton/wool add shine and breathability to this classic material. Wool fabric works well in skirts, shirts, pants, coats, hats and other winter accessories, as well as industrial uses such as insulation and commercial carpeting. Wool may also be used for blankets and, when treated with lanolin, resists odor, water seepage, and bacteria. Wool can also be harvested organically, which reduces the chances for wool allergies and any adverse reactions to chemicals. Wool fabric’s soft feel, great features, and fabulous drape make for a very pleasant experience.

Worsted wool is easily identified by its straight, parallel fibers. Named for the village of Worstead, England, worsted fabric is made from worsted yarns, which are wool fibers that have been combed to ensure that they all lie in the same direction and remain parallel. The crimp of the original wool is removed through the combing process, creating a material with the benefits of wool and a distinctive feel.

The resulting fabric is lightweight and drapes well, and if often used for suits, coats and accessories. Worsted wool should be hand washed or dry cleaned only, as the delicate nature of wool may lead to shrinkage or damage in machine washers.

NATURAL AND MAN MADE FIBERS TIMELINE

Natural fibers have been around for thousands of years and have been used for everything from apparel to home décor. While natural fibers such as flax and cotton have been around for thousands of years, the man-made fiber industry was only established in 1910. By the 1950's the man-made fiber industry had a great deal of success and was constantly coming up with new technology, which continues to evolve today.

Natural Fibers:

Flax – 5,000 BC

Considered by most to be the oldest natural fiber used for textiles.

Egyptian pharaohs burial shrouds were made of fine linen developed out of flax.

The Soviet States are the largest producers of flax; Northern Ireland and Belgium are its largest exporters.

Cotton – 3,000 BC

Was found to be worn by the Egyptians in 2,500 BC and probably even earlier. In 1793, Eli Whitney invented the cotton gin which revolutionized how cotton was processed.

In 1884 the power loom was developed and caused cotton fabrics to significantly improve and become varied.

Major cotton producers include: China, India, and the U.S..

Wool – 3,000 BC

People from the late Stone Age used wool.

There are roughly 200 types of wool with varying grades produced by 40 different breeds of sheep.

Major wool producers include: New Zealand, Australia, South Africa, and Argentina.

Silk – 2,600 BC

It is believed that a Chinese princess discovered silk.

Silk is made from combining two continuous filaments which are cemented together and used to form a silkworm cocoon.

In 1725 BC, silk culture began and was sponsored by the wife of the Chinese Emperor.

For approximately 3,000 years, the Chinese closely guarded the secrets of silk cultivation and fabric manufacturing.

India learned of the silk culture after an Indian prince was married by a Chinese princess.

Japan is the major producer and exporter of silk.

Man-Made Fibers:

Rayon – 1910

Rayon was the first synthetic or man-made fiber.

In 1910 the American Viscose Company became the first commercial producer of rayon in the U.S.

There are two types of rayon, viscose rayon and cuprammonium rayon, which are developed by applying two different chemicals and manufacturing techniques.

Today, the U.S. does not have any rayon producers.

Acetate – 1924

In 1924 the Celanese Corporation were the first commercial producer of acetate fiber in the U.S..

Nylon – 1939 In 1939, E. I. Du Pont De Nemours & Company became the first commercial producer of nylon in the U.S.

Nylon is the second most used synthetic fiber in the U.S.

Acrylic – 1950

In 1950 the E. I. Du Pont De Nemours & Company were the first commercial producers of acrylic in the U.S.

Polyester – 1953

E. I. Du Pont Nemours & Company became the first commercial producer in 1953 of polyester in the U.S..

The most used man-made fiber in the U.S. is polyester.

Triacetate – 1954

In 1954 the Celanese Corporation were the first commercial producers of triacetate in the U.S..

In 1985 triacetate production in the U.S. was discontinued.

Spandex – 1959

1959 was the first year spandex fiber was commercially produced in the U.S. by the E. I. Du Pont De Nemours & Company.

Spandex is considered an elastomeric fiber meaning it is able to stretch 100% and snap back like natural rubber.

Spandex is used in a filament form.

Polyolefin/Polypropylene – 1961

In 1961 the Hercules Corporation became the first commercial producer of an olefin fiber in the U.S.

In 1966, polyolefin became the world's first and only Nobel Prize winning fiber.

Microfiber – 1989

Microfibers are produced in a number of different synthetic fibers including polyester, acrylic, and nylon.

Microfiber is the thinnest and finest of all the man-made fibers and is finer than the most delicate silks.

Some microfibers are so small that a human hair is more than 100 times their size.

Lyocell – 1993 Lyocell is produced from the wood of pulp of trees that are specifically for this purpose

Lyocell is processed with a solvent spinning technique where the resolving agent is recycled which reduces environmental effluents.

FEEDSACK and FLOURSACK INFORMATION

The feedsack story starts in the early 1800's, when goods such as food staples, grain, seed, and animal feed were packed for transportation and storage in tins, boxes, and wooden barrels. This was not an ideal method of storage as tin would rust and the hand made boxes and barrels leaked and were damaged easily. They were bulky, heavy and difficult to transport. Manufacturers were anxious to find another method, but didn’t consider the cloth bags of homespun linen (which was then considered a junk fabric) used by the farmer to store goods for use in the home because the hand sewn seams wouldn’t hold up in heavy use. This changed in 1846 with the invention of the "stitching machine," which made it possible to sew double locking seams strong enough to hold the contents of a bag.

Feed sacks were initially made of heavy canvas, and were used to obtain flour, sugar, meal, grain, salt and feed from the mills. They were reusable, with the farmer bringing an empty sack stamped with his mark or brand to the mill to be filled. This changed when the North East mills began weaving inexpensive cotton fabric in the late 1800's. Feedsacks (or feedbags) were initially printed on plain white cloth and in sizes that corresponded to barrel sizes. For example, a one barrel bag held 196 pounds of flour. A 1/8 barrel bag only held 24 pounds. The brand name of the flour was simply printed on the side of the bag.

The thrifty farm wife quickly discovered that this cotton bag was a great source of utilitarian fabric to be used for dish cloths, diapers, nightgowns and other household uses. Manufacturers decided to take advantage of this and started offering sacks in various prints and solid colors as a marketing ploy to create loyalty. It would take three identical sacks to make a dress, for example, and the farmer just might be induced to buy more that way.

It was not hard for the farmer to purchase his goods in feedsacks. The flour industry consumed the largest share of the feedsack market with more than 42 percent. Sugar was next with 17 percent followed by feed, seeds, rice, and fertilizer. These feedsacks came in different sizes, and the quality of the cloth varied with the item it carried. Sugar sacks, for example, were much finer in weave. By 1914, sacks came in 10, 6, 4, 3, 2 and 1 pound sizes, although these sizes varied by manufacturer. President Roosevelt standardized sizes in 1937. A 50 pound feedsack measured 34 x 38 inches. A 100 pound sack measured 39 x 46. Magazines and pattern companies began to take notice of feedsack popularity and published patterns to take advantage of the feedsack prints. Matching fabric and even matching wrapping paper was available, too. Directions were given for using the strings from feedsacks in knitting and crocheting. A 1942 estimate showed that three million women and children of all income levels were wearing print feedbag garments.

Feedsacks were used to make: Clothes, Toys, Underwear, Pillowcases, Diapers, Curtains, Table Cloths, Towels and Dish Clothes and much more.

Manufacturers began to compete with each other to provide attractive, useful bags. Some bags came ready for sewing with pre printed patterns for dolls or aprons. Others were specifically printed for pillow cases or curtains. Some sacks were printed as a series such as the 1935 Sea Island sugar doll series. Many sacks had themes. Some of the more collectible sacks now are those with Walt Disney themes (Davy Crockett, Cinderella, Alice in Wonderland, Donald Duck, Mickey Mouse, Goofy), movie themes (Gone with the wind, above), Comic book themes (Buck Rogers) or nursery rhyme themes (BoPeep, Humpty Dumpty).

By1941 there were 31 textile mills that manufactured bag goods. Bemis Brothers (TN), Fulton Bag & Cotton Mills and Cottons Mills of Atlanta had their own textile mills. Percy Kent of Buffalo NY made the famous WWII feedsacks known as Kent’s Cloth of the United Nations which featured wartime symbols.

After WWII, technological innovations provided more sanitary and effective packaging made of heavy paper and plastic containers. It was cost effective, too. A cotton bag cost 32 cents to make, as opposed to 10 cents for the paper bag. By 1948 this new industry cornered more than half of the bag market and the cloth bag fell out of use. But not entirely! Some Amish and Mennonite communities demand, and receive, their goods in feedsacks.

Historic Textiles - Safe Storage and Cleaning Methods

What destroys a textile ?

Light:

The most damaging and irreversible environmental agent on textiles is light.

Sources of light: Daylight, Flourescent lights, Tungsten (incandescent). Protect by placing filters over flourescent tubes, reducing exposure to sunlight, use tungsten bulbs.

Relative Humidity:

Fluctuations encourage mold growth, pest damage, decay, dye migration. Ideal humidity levels are 45- 55% for fibers. Stabilize humidity levels in storage containers by using a desiccant.

Temperature:

Fluctuations encourage pest growth, speeds up chemical reactions and crack fibers. Textiles should not be stored in attics or basements. Both locations hasten decomposition in textiles. Ideal storage temperatures are 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

Storage:

Cedar chests are used to ward off clothes moth, a common pest to wool. Periodic sanding of the inside of the cedar is required to keep the scent active. Fibers are harmed by substances in the wood, so a barrier must be used. Metal shelving can rust and may have sharp edges or corners. Plastic can encourage mold and mildew growth by limiting air circulation. Use a barrier of acid free products or washed unbleached muslin between the artifact and it's storage container. Acid free boxes and tissue are the safest storage containers.

If the texile is sturdy enough, hanging is appropriate using padded hangers. Quilts, rugs and linens should be rolled, rotating the roll over time. Artifacts may also be stored flat in containers, heavier items on the bottom, fragile ones on the top. Periodically refold the textiles to reposition the fold lines to other areas. Monitor storage for the appearance of new stains that can appear in storage and check for for pests.

Diagnosing Stains:

Brown stains are usually caused by starch/soap/detergent or sugar left in the fabric. Yellowing occus in cotton and linens, resulting from starch left in the textile. Silk and wool can yellow from exposure to UV light and with age.

Choosing Cleaning Method:

Always test for colorfastness of the artifact by using distilled water to drop in an inconspicuous area. Blot with a clean white cloth and check for dye transfer. If no dye transfers, test with distilled water and a mild detergent in the same spot and again check for dye transfer. Each fabric, trim and color must be colorfast. If any dye transfers to the blotting cloth, DO NOT attempt to wet clean the artifact.

Wet Cleaning Procedure:

Clean your bath tub really well to remove all soap residue and rinse all the cleaner out with hot water. Lay clean towels on the bottom of the tub and lay the quilt on the towels. A bed sheet may work better for you.

Then fill the tub with several inches of luke warm water. (Don't let the water run directly on the quilt, as the force of the water may cause holes.) Let it soak in plain water for a while, for the old soap and a lot of dirt to come out. Then empty the bath tub letting the water drain from the quilt for a while. You may gently roll the quilt up in the towels, removing it from the tub. (Have a garbage bag on the floor to sit it in, as it will be soaking wet.)

If you've found the colors to be colorfast, you can try a bit warmer water temperature in the tub. You can add a mild detergent such as Arm & Hammer Detergent in the water, mixing it well. (Arm & Hammer has the baking soda to get rid of odors and it removes stains well. You may also try any of the commerical cleaners such as Mountain Mist's Ensure or the old favorite of using apple cider vinegar. Also a possible choice is horse shampoo as it has natural PH balance.

Unroll the quilt gently, placing it in the tub, still on top of the towels. (Never lift up on the wet quilt itself, as it may tear.) Let the quilt soak for a few hours. (You can move it around a few times and very gently work or massage the areas with any stains, working the solution into the fabrics.) Then drain the water and rinse the quilt well, several times until the water runs clear. Let the quilt drain for a while, and then roll it up in the towels, remove it from the tub to sit on the floor in a clean garbage bag again. You may need to repeat these steps if the quilt is really dirty.

Vintage fabric experts say to lay the wet quilt directly on the grass in the yard in the sun to dry. The natural oxygenation process of the grass (chlorophyll in the grass) and the sun will help to remove stains also. This is called "sun crofting". If you have dogs or feel more comfortable, you can lay the quilt on towels on a table to dry in the sun. That's the second choice.

It is a lot of work, but the quilt will have minimal damage, unless it has dry rot. You will preserve the quilt, as leaving it dirty, with increasing storage stains, will continue to break down the fabric. If you have rust, it will oxidize and spread over a larger area, literally eating holes in the fabric.

You can display your quilt on a quilt rack, chair, bed or hang it on a wall.

Vacuuming:

Prepare fiberglass screening with fabric bound edges for protection. Use a low-suction hand-held vacuum with a HEPA filter and an upholstery tool without bristles. Make sure to stablize loose, worn, or torn areas prior to treatment by placing screening over the artifact. Vacuum both sides and go with the grain of the fabric.

lothing In Bible Times by Wayne Blank

Our knowledge of the clothing worn by people in The Bible comes primarily from the Scriptures themselves, as well as from illustrations on various monuments, seals and plaques that have been found. Findings in grave and tomb remains by archaeologists have also provided direct evidence.

Although there was a general similarity, in appearance and what the items were called, there were always easily-detectable differences in men and women's clothing. The Lord (see Rock Of Ages) had commanded that male and female Israelites were to wear different forms of clothing, and made it very clear how He felt about those who did otherwise - "A woman must not wear men's clothing, nor a man wear women's clothing, for The Lord your God detests anyone who does this." (Deuteronomy 22:5).

Generally, Biblical clothing consisted of - For Men -

 The Inner Tunic - a long piece of plain cotton or linen cloth as an undergarment for the upper body, but sometimes reaching all the way down to the ankles. It was usually not worn when the weather was very warm.  The Tunic-coat, or Ketonet - a shirt-like garment worn over the inner tunic in cool weather, or next to the body without the inner tunic when warm. It usually had long sleeves and extended down to the ankles.  The Belt, or Girdle - made of leather, from 2 to 6 inches wide, sometimes with a shoulder strap when heavier articles were being carried from it.  The Cloke, or Mantle - a robe worn over all of the other items of clothing as an outer garment for warmth and appearance.  The Headdress - worn chiefly as a protection against the sun. The Hebrew version could, depending upon circumstances, be a cap, a turban, or a head scarf.  Shoes or Sandals - shoes were made from soft leather, sandals from harder leather.

For Women -

 The Inner Tunic - a long garment reaching all the way down to the ankles. It was usually of a finer quality cotton, linen or silk.  The Outer Tunic - a full-length garment, again of finer quality than the men's version, and almost always enhanced with fine needlework and/or multicolor threads.  The Belt, or Girdle - made of colorful silk or wool, sometimes with a fringe from the waist nearly to the ankles.  The Cloke - warm and durable for protection against cool weather, and usually more intricate.  The Headdress - a lighter and finer quality than the men's version, and always more colorful. Women also usually had elaborate plaiting or other arrangement of their hair, which tended to be long.  Shoes or Sandals - shoes were made from soft leather, sandals from harder leather.