The History of Fabric & Textiles Textiles Are Defined As the Yarns
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The History of Fabric & Textiles Textiles are defined as the yarns that are woven or knitted to make fabrics. The use of textiles links the myriad cultures of the world and defines the way they clothe themselves, adorn their surroundings and go about their lives. Textiles have been an integral part of human daily life for thousands of years, with the first use of textiles, most likely felt, dates back to the late Stone Age, roughly 100,000 years ago. However, the earliest instances of cotton, silk and linen being to appear around 5,000 BC in India, Egypt and China. The ancient methods of manufacturing textiles, namely plain weave, satin weave and twill, have changed very little over the centuries. Modern manufacturing speed and capacity, however, have increased the rate of production to levels unthinkable even 200 years ago. Trade of textiles in the ancient world occurred predominantly on the Silk Road, a winding route across lower Asia that connected the Mediterranean lands with the Far East. Spanning over 5,000 miles and established during the Han Dynasty in China around 114 BC, the Silk Road was an integral part of the sharing of manufactured goods, cultures and philosophies, and helped develop the great civilizations of the world. During the Middle Ages, simple clothing was favored by the majority of people, while finer materials such as silks and linens were the trappings of royalty and the rich. During the 14th century, however, advances in dyeing and tailoring accelerated the spread of fashion throughout Western Europe, and drastically altered the mindset of both wealthy man and commoner alike. Clothing and draperies became increasingly elaborate over the next several centuries, although production methods remained largely unchanged until the invention of steam-powered mechanized facilities during the Industrial Revolution. From that point on, quality textiles became available to the masses at affordable prices. Textiles can be derived from several sources: animals, plants and minerals are the traditional sources of materials, while petroleum-derived synthetic fibers were introduced in the mid-20th century. By far, animal textiles are the most prevalent in human society, and are commonly made from furs and hair. Silk, wool, and pashmina are all extremely popular animal textiles. Plant textiles, the most common being cotton, can also be made from straw, grass and bamboo. Mineral textiles include glass fiber, metal fiber and asbestos. The recent introduction of synthetic textiles has greatly expanded the array of options available for fabric manufacturers, both in terms of garment versatility and usability. Polyester, spandex, nylon and acrylic are all widely used synthetic textiles. In addition to the multitude of textiles available for use, there are many different methods for creating fabrics from textiles. Weaving is performed using a loom, typically a rectangular frame on which strands of fibers are hung and interlaced with other fibers. Knitting involves interlacing strands of yarn with the use of a needle, and is typically done by hand, while weaving is largely mechanized. Lacing is performed using a backing piece to create finer fabrics with open holes throughout the piece. Interlacing a yarn through an existing piece of woven cloth results in a layer known as a pile, which is prominent in the manufacture of carpets and velvet. Finally, and by far the oldest technique, is felting, which involves squeezing a mat of fibers together in a liquid to create a tangled, flat material. Textiles can also be colored using a variety of techniques, including weaving together fibers of differing colors, bleaching to create a pure white look, stitching colored yarn through existing fabric, the use of resist dyeing, and many other ways of printing directly onto finished fabric. Modern dyeing methods can create fabrics of almost any color or pattern imaginable. COTTON FABRIC INFORMATION Cotton is the most prevalent fiber in the world. Renowned for its breathability, strength and versatility, cotton has helped shape the history of the world by clothing and protecting countless civilizations and adventurers from the effects of nature. Derived in name from the Arabic “qutn”, cotton grows in a round boll around the seeds of the cotton plant, a thorned shrub belonging to the Malvaceae family of the genus Gossypium. Cotton is believed to have been first cultivated and spun by the Indus Valley Civilization around 4,000 B.C. Well before the emergence of Christianity, the manufacture of cotton was widespread throughout India and the Mediterranean. Arab traders introduced fine cotton fabrics to Italy and Spain the in 1st century, and the Moors brought cotton production to Spain in the 9th century. Cotton reached the shores of England in the 1600s, as the East India Company began importing delicate textiles from India. India fell from prominence in cotton production by the 18th Century as the Industrial Revolution in Europe greatly increased cotton processing and the East India Company increasingly relied on India merely as a source of the raw material. Automated processes for separating the cotton boll from its barbed enclosure were greatly improved with the development of the cotton gin by Eli Whitney in 1793. Cotton fabric began to be produced almost exclusively in Northern Europe, to be later exported to the colonies from which the cotton fibers originated. During the US Civil War, cotton farming provided the money needed to sustain the Southern Confederacy, and after he war, previously blockaded American exports bounced back immediately due to their lower cost and excellent quality. Today, cotton production is a billion-dollar industry. The incorporation of cotton is used in everything from personal hygiene products to hospital blankets. While the United States had historically been the world’s leading producer of cotton, today that title is held by China, which produces over 7.6 million tons of cotton annually. Cotton requires a sunny environment with moderate rainfall and little frost, resulting in large amounts of cotton grown in India, China, Egypt and the Southeastern United States. Why is cotton so incredibly popular? Its fibers are highly porous, making cotton clothing light and breathable, but able to be woven into any desired density. This quality also enables cotton fabric to be dyed easily, making it a natural choice for designers. Cotton fabric is available in a plentitude of varieties, such as supremely soft and luxurious Sea Island and Pima coton, rugged and durable corduroy industrial strength canvas, light and chic voile and organdy, and lustrous sateen and velvet. Cotton fabric is especially soft and pleasing to the touch; and, since it is derived naturally, those with sensitive skin are able to wear the fiber without any adverse reactions. Cotton is also a fabric that responds well to sewing: it has a slight give, but is not difficult to handle, like Spandex or lycra. Its drape conforms well to the curves of the body, which makes it a brilliant choice for women’s garments. Cotton fabric is also a hugely popular choice for undergarments: it naturally wicks away moisture while retaining breathability. Cotton does not require the maintenance of silk or other fabrics: it does not need to be dry-cleaned and will not be ruined in a rainstorm. However, because the cotton fibers are so porous, shrinkage of the material is a possibility. It is always recommended to wash cotton first before beginning any sewing endeavor. For beginners and experts alike, cotton fabric is a natural choice for fine garments, dresses, pants, shirts, baby clothing, and any other project requiring a gentle touch and long-lasting wearability. COLOR DYEING INFORMATION Colors often taken for granted in the 21st century were considered wonders a hundred years ago. In fact, for most of civilization, clothing colors were limited to plant-based colors such as drab browns and watery grays. Only aristocrats were able to afford bold colors such as carmine red and royal purple, colors so expensive to import from faraway lands that they immediately marked the wearer as being of high station (hence the reason royal purple really indicated the wearer as being royalty). Dye was such a coveted commodity that one of the principle assets Marco Polo planned on exporting from his travels in India was indigo, a deep blue color. Scientists, eager to capitalize on peoples’ desire for vivid wardrobe colors, started developing synthetic equivalents for animal and plant-based dyes, allowing the beauty of color to be accessed by everyone. In 1857, a German chemist named Dr. August F. W. Partz applied for two US patents for machines used in his attempt to create magenta dye at his Brooklyn plant. His efforts were unsuccessful, but paved the way for the Holliday Chemical and Color Company which produced magenta in three shades: Empire Red, Keystone, and Bay State. The Holliday business was located in Brooklyn, NY, and was considered to set the standard for the other major dye houses in the area. Some of the largest dye houses located in New York City included: 1. The 12th Street Plant in South Brooklyn had its own dock and rail system and produced a bluish-green water-soluble indigo 2. The Beckers Aniline and Chemical Works was the largest dye manufacturing company in the United States and was located in Flatbush, Brooklyn. Its owner was one of the wealthiest industrialists in the era. 3. Zobel Color Works produced a wide range of colors from methyl violet to sulfur black and was located at 2nd Avenue and 9th Street in Brooklyn 4. H. Kohnstamm and Company was located near the lower tip of Manhattan and speciliazed in high- class colors for automobiles. 5. Williamsburg Chemical Company located at 250 Morgan Ave, Brooklyn, specialized in rich, sulfur black.