Arkansauce Issue 3, 2013

The Journal of Arkansas Foodways Issue 3, 2013 Clyde and Minnie Clarke, center, enjoy a picnic with their family and friends, near Jonesboro, Craighead County, Arkansas, ca. 1915. Courtesy Clyde Nuell Clarke Papers (MC 792), Special Collections, University of Arkansas, Fayetteville. 2 Arkansauce Issue 3, 2013 Issue 3, 2013 Arkansauce: The Journal Postmaster: of Arkansas Foodways is Send address changes Welcome to Arkansauce! published by the Special to University of Arkansas Tim Nutt Collections Department of Libraries, Special Collections the University of Arkansas Department, 365 N. McIlroy From Arkansas’s Farms and Forests Libraries. Avenue, Fayetteville, Arkan- Tom and Mary Dillard sas 72701. The mission of the Special Chicken Every Sunday Collections Department is Journal Staff: Marcia Camp to collect, organize, preserve, Tom W. Dillard, guest editor, and provide access to research History of Prehistoric Arkansas Cuisine was Special Collections de- materials documenting the Ann Early state of Arkansas and its role partment head from 2004– in regional, national, and 2012. Now retired, Tom is Salt Was Important international communities. pursuing his many interests, Tom Dillard Other publications may including Arkansas history reprint from this journal and gardening. He cofound- Wes Hall’s Minute Man without express permission, ed both this journal and the Monica Mylonas Encyclopedia of Arkansas provided correct attribution Gastronomic Home is given to the author, article History and Culture. Stephanie Harp title, issue number, date, Mary Dillard, guest editor, is page number, and to Deer Hunting a retired political consultant. Arkansauce: The Journal Larry Frost of Arkansas Foodways. She is an enthusiastic foodie, Reprinted articles may not an outstanding cook, and a Venison Cooking be edited without permis- nature lover. One of her hob- Larry Frost sion. Tearsheets must be bies is tending her backyard mailed to the editor within chickens. Recreating Fern Newcomb’s Cake two weeks of reprinting. Mary Dillard Diane F. Worrell is managing Neither the University Squirrel for Breakfast of Arkansas nor the editors editor and special projects Martha Estes assumes any responsibility librarian, Special Collections Department, University of for statements, whether of Rose Inn Restaurant Arkansas Libraries, e-mail: fact or opinion, made by the Jimmy Jeffress contributors. [email protected]. Correspondence should Arkansas Food Quiz be sent to Diane F. Worrell, Timothy G. Nutt is head managing editor, at the pub- of the Special Collections lication office: University of Department and manuscripts Featured Cookbook Arkansas Libraries, Special and rare books librarian, Collections Department, University of Arkansas Libraries, e-mail: Featured Menu 365 N. McIlroy Avenue, from Ulysses S. Grant dinner Fayetteville, Arkansas [email protected]. 72701, phone: 479-575- 5577, e-mail: dfworrel@uark. Design: edu, Web site: http://libinfo. Joy Aprile Caffrey, design uark.edu/SpecialCollections/ and production default.asp. Arkansauce Issue 3, 2013 3 Welcome to Arkansauce 2013! By Timothy G. Nutt Special Collections Department Head The third issue of journal going and free to subscribers. Any donation Arkansauce has just come to Special Collections to offset the design, printing, out of the publishing oven, and mailing costs are welcome. and I am pleased to serve it to you. We have com- We are also interested in submissions for the missioned a number of next volume of Arkansauce. Yes, even before this issue articles that hopefully will was put to bed we were already scouting for the next both entertain and inform guest editor and possible articles so keep those sug- you. I know you will enjoy gestions coming. It is gratifying to know that people learning about prehistoric look forward to each issue and to have folks contact peoples in Arkansas and me with article and photograph suggestions for their diet and many of future issues. I hope Arkansauce brings you as much you will identify with the pleasure as it does to us in Special Collections. articles on deer and squir- Timothy G. Nutt, photograph by We’ll see you at the supper table. rel hunting. Growing up, Russell Cothren. deer season was not only a social event (camaraderie on a deer stand), but also gave us three days out of school. What kid wouldn’t like that? I am also certain that some of you will remember Arkansas-based Minute Man restaurants. I remember my first visit to a Minute Man and how —Tim Nutt good the burgers tasted. As I read Monica Mylonas’s article on the chain, I lamented the fact that only one of the restaurants still exists. Those are just the tip of the culinary iceberg; there is much more packed into this issue. Call for Menu Donations I am enthusiastic that Tom and Mary Dillard As a part of its foodways initiative, Special Collections is agreed to guest edit this issue of Arkansauce. Tom was seeking to build a collection of Arkansas menus. While one of the founders of the journal and with his guid- we are especially seeking older menus, recent ones are welcome too. We are looking for: ance, Special Collections was able to produce two savory issues, so it seems appropriate that he take on • Restaurant menus this role after his retirement. Having been the guest • Menus for special events at many meals at the Dillard home, I can attest that • Menus for family meals, such as descriptions Mary is an extraordinarily good cook, but she is also of meals in handwritten letters a good writer. Under their leadership, another fine is- If you wish to donate a menu, please mail it to or sue of Arkansauce was published. As always, we could contact Timothy G. Nutt, Department Head and not have produced this edition without the work of Manuscripts Librarian, University of Arkansas Libraries, Managing Editor Diane Worrell and the rest of the Special Collections Department, 365 N. McIlroy Avenue, employees in Special Collections and the University Fayetteville, AR 72701, phone: 479-575-8443, e-mail: [email protected]. of Arkansas Libraries. The popularity of Arkansauce continues to sky- rocket, and we receive requests to be added to the mailing list on a daily basis. The Oxford American, led by Warwick Sabin, is just one of our enthusiastic sup- porters, but we need even more support to keep this 4 Arkansauce Issue 3, 2013 From Arkansas’s Farms and Forests: Foodways in the Natural State By Tom and Mary Dillard ocumenting Former State Senator the history of Jimmy Jeffress submit- food and food- ted a wonderfully evoc- ways is neither ative story on the “Rose simpleD nor easy. We all grow Inn Restaurant” in his up eating food—and some hometown of Crossett. of our strongest childhood Mr. Jeffress was re- memories revolve around cently the Democratic certain beloved, or hated, Party candidate for the foods. But, how often do we fourth district Congres- record information on our sional seat. Despite the favorite foods? It does not popularity of restau- help that food preparation rants such as the Rose has traditionally been the Inn, most Arkansans domain of women—and the made do eating at home. lives of women are not well But, one home meal was documented. How many special—“Sunday din- women in, say 1900 Arkan- ner.” For generations, sas, had the time to keep a southern women began journal? Before the modern their Sunday mornings era, cookbooks were few Mary Dillard and Tom Dillard in their Farmington kitchen. by killing and dressing and far between, especially a chicken—to be fried references to foods actually domes- upon returning from church, es- For generations, ticated in Arkansas. Monica Madey pecially if the preacher was in tow. Mylonas, an archivist at the Univer- Little Rock freelance writer Marcia southern women began sity of Arkansas at Little Rock’s Cen- Camp recalls those chicken din- their Sunday mornings ter for Arkansas History and Cul- ners in her essay “Chicken Every ture, contributed a most interesting Sunday.” Remembered meals from by killing and dressing piece on Wes Hall of Little Rock, the an early childhood in Arkansas in- a chicken—to be fried founder of Minute Man and the man fluenced Maine-resident Stephanie who brought the microwave oven to Harp to contribute a remembrance upon returning from Arkansas. of her “gastronomic home.” church, especially if the Wild foods, both plants and ani- Mary Dillard engaged in a little mals, still play a role in Arkansas “remembering” as she wrote an es- preacher was in tow. food culture. Our good friend and say on her efforts to recreate a des- writer Martha Estes, of Fayetteville, sert from her childhood, an “Apple in rural areas. Your editors hope this contributed a brief remembrance of Stack Cake.” It took three tries before issue of Arkansauce will do its part to her single mother killing and cook- the cake was just right, but Tom Dil- make our Arkansas food history and ing squirrels for her young family. lard enjoyed each effort. foodways better documented and Larry Don Frost, the brother of edi- We urge you to go put on the cof- shared with a broader audience. tor Mary Dillard and an avid hunter, fee pot and prepare to settle down We have recruited several writ- contributed two essays on hunting with this edition of Arkansauce. A ers to delve into the history and deer and cooking venison. As our nice slice of apple stack cake would prehistory of Arkansas food. State featured cookbook, we selected a be good, too. Archeologist Ann M. Early has con- volume on wild plant foods of Ar- tributed an essay on prehistoric Ar- kansas, Billy Joe Tatum’s Wild Food Tom Dillard kansas foods, including interesting Cookbook & Field Guide. Mary Dillard Arkansauce Issue 3, 2013 5 Chicken Every Sunday By Marcia Camp he first harbinger of spring was the arrival of certain birds—chickens.

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