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1 The Best of Switzerland

You’re visiting Switzerland to relax and have a good time, so you don’t want to waste precious vacation hours searching for the best deals and experiences. So take us along and we’ll do the work for you. Throughout our years spent travel- ing in Switzerland, we’ve tested the best lake shores, reviewed countless restau- rants, inspected hotels ranging from remote alpine inns to luxurious city palaces, and sampled the best skiing, mountain climbing, and hiking. We’ve even learned where to get away from it all when you want to escape the crowds. The follow- ing is a very personal, opinionated list of what we consider to be the best Switzerland has to offer.

1 The Best Travel Experiences • Hiking the Swiss Mountains: at Chillon where Lord Byron From the time the snows melt in wrote The Prisoner of Chillon. spring until the late autumn Everyone knows Gruyères for the winds blow too powerfully, visi- cheese, but it’s also the most tors head for the country’s alpine craggy castle village of Switzer- chain to hike its beautiful land, complete with dungeon and expanses. Well-trodden footpaths spectacular panoramic views. through the valleys and up the Both Bern and Basel have historic mountains are found in all the Münsters of cathedrals—the one resorts of Switzerland. Hiking is in Bern dates from the 14th cen- especially enjoyable in the Ticino tury. Among the great cathedrals, and the Engadine, but quite won- St. Nicholas’s Cathedral, in the derful almost anywhere in the ancient city of Fribourg near Bern, country. You’ll find fewer visitors dominates the medieval quarter, in some of the less-inhabited val- and Schloss Thun, on Lake Thun leys such as those in the Valais. in the Bernese Oberland, was Every major tourist office in built by the dukes of Zähtingen at Switzerland will give you a free list the end of the 12th century. of the best trails in their area. If • Joining the Revelers at Fasnacht you go to one of the area’s local (Basel): Believe it or not, Switzer- bookstores, you can also purchase land has its own safe and very topographical maps of wilderness appealing version of Carnival, with trails. origins dating back to the Middle • Viewing Castles & Cathedrals: Ages. It begins the Monday after There is so much emphasis on Ash Wednesday (usually in late Feb outdoor sports in Switzerland that or early Mar). The aesthetic is hea- many visitors forget that it is rich then (or pagan), with a touch of in history and filled with land- existentialist absurdity. The horse- marks from the Middle Ages. drawn and motorized parades are Explore at random. Visit the castle appropriately flamboyant, and the c 542834 Ch01.qxd 1/27/04 10:11 AM Page 5

THE BEST SCENIC DRIVES 5

cacophonous music that accompa- on the William Tell Express. Begin nies the spectacle includes the in Lucerne on a historic paddle- sounds of fifes, drums, trumpets, wheel steamer that chugs across and trombones. Sometimes as the lake while you have lunch. many as 20,000 people participate Before the tour is over, you’ll have in the raucous festivities, which boarded a train on the lake’s most might change your image of distant shore, traversed one of the straight-laced Switzerland. See most forbidding mountain ranges “Basel” in chapter 5. in central Europe (through the rel- • Summiting Mount Pilatus: The ative safety of the St. Gotthard steepest cogwheel train in the Tunnel), and descended into the world—with a 48-degree gradi- lush lowlands of the Italian-speak- ent—will take you to the top of ing Ticino district. See chapter 11. Mount Pilatus, a 2,100m (7,000- • Wandering the Waterfront ft.) summit overlooking Lucerne. Promenades: One of the greatest Once at the top you’ll have a summer pleasures of Switzerland is panoramic sweep that stretches all wandering the palm-lined prome- the way to Italy. Until the 1600s it nades in the Ticino, the Italian- was forbidden to climb this speaking southern section of the mountain because locals feared country. The best resorts—and the that Pontius Pilate’s angry ghost best promenades—are found at would provide trouble. His body, Ascona, Locarno, and Lugano. or so the legend says, was brought You’ll have not only lake scenery, here by the devil. Queen Victoria but the rugged Italian Alps as a made the trip in 1868 and did backdrop on your stroll. Of much to dispel this long-held course, you can do more than just myth. You can follow in the walk. There’s swimming, boating, queen’s footsteps. See “Lucerne” cafe sitting, people-watching, and in chapter 11. even shopping. At night, when the • Discovering the Lakes of Cen- harbor lights shine, you can join tral Switzerland: Experience the the Ticinese in their evening stroll. country’s sparkling lakes with a See chapter 14. tour through central Switzerland

2 The Best Scenic Drives • The Road over the Great St. half of every year. Technically, the Bernard Pass: Of the many moun- Swiss section of the pass road tain passes of alpine Europe, this is begins in French-speaking Mar- the most famous. Since the days of tigny and ends in Italian-speaking the Roman Empire, much of the San Bernardino, 56km (35 miles) commerce between northern Italy away. In reality, most motorists use and the rest of Europe has navi- the pass road as a slow but scenic gated this low point in one of the midsummer diversion on long most forbidding mountain ridges drives that begin near Basel or in the world. Modern-day pilgrims Zurich and end in the Italian cities follow in the steps of Napoleon of Aosta or Milan. See “Verbier” in and his armies, who traversed the chapter 8. perilous pass in 1800 to invade • The Road over the Furka Pass: Italy. Since 1964 a tunnel beneath Traveling in a southwest-to-north- the mountains has allowed traffic east line for only 32km (20 miles), to move unhindered for at least from the hamlet of Gletsch, c 542834 Ch01.qxd 1/27/04 10:11 AM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF SWITZERLAND

northeast of Brig, to the mountain Switzerland. Frostbite was com- resort of Andermatt, the road fol- monplace, and many died in the lows the high-altitude frontier snows en route. Today cars can between German-speaking and navigate the pass as part of a Italian-speaking Switzerland. En 2-hour, 55km (34-mile) drive route you’ll see the frozen mass of between St. Moritz and Tirano. Be the glacier that feeds the Rhône warned, this drive is never prob- and scenery that’s absolutely mag- lem free. The road is winding, and nificent. Any number of scenic ice patches have a way of surfacing highlights radiate out from here. even in summertime. Snow usu- See “Andermatt” in chapter 11. ally closes the pass completely • St. Gotthard Pass Road: One of between mid-October and late the most vital roads in Europe April, although trains can usually stretches for 64km (40 miles) get through except during the between German-speaking Ander- worst midwinter blizzards. But the matt and the Italian-speaking vil- views are truly spectacular. See lage of Biasca. It shares many “Pontresina” in chapter 13. characteristics of the above-men- • The Simplon Pass Road: Unlike tioned St. Bernard Pass, which lies the St. Gotthard Pass Road, which about 40 almost-impassable kilo- is interspersed with artfully engi- meters (25 miles) to the east. neered bridges, hairpin turns, and Some historians have suggested retaining walls, the Simplon Pass that the tolls collected since the Road gracefully conforms to the 1300s along this road helped natural topography of some of finance the continued independ- the most scenic mountainsides ence of Switzerland itself. Since in Europe. It stretches about 1980 a 16km (10-mile) tunnel has 64km (40 miles), from German- allowed motorists to travel the speaking Brig over the Italian bor- route year-round. Traffic on the der to Domodossola. Napoleon high road, however, remains demanded a low-altitude pass for clogged with summer vacationers his artillery, and the present road who come for the stunning views. follows the 1805 plan designs. The landscape is mournful and Napoleon’s grip on power, ironi- bleak throughout much of this cally, crumbled before his armies adventure, a testimony to the sav- could ever use the pass. Despite age climactic conditions that exist the best efforts of the Swiss at these high altitudes. See Department of Highways, the “Andermatt” in chapter 11. road is often closed between • The Road over the Bernina Pass: December and early May, with During the Middle Ages, mer- automobiles diverted onto flatbed chants led horse and donkey cara- trains instead. These are rather vans over this pass, risking their awkwardly carried through one of lives to carry supplies between the longest railway tunnels in the what are now the German-speak- world, the Simplon Tunnel. See ing and Italian-speaking regions of chapter 14.

3 The Best Train Trips • The Glacier Express: It’s adver- Switzerland. Despite that, its tised as the slowest express train in 274km (170 miles) of track are an 1 the world, requiring more than 7 ⁄2 awesome triumph of engineering hours to pass through southeastern (of which Switzerland is justifiably c 542834 Ch01.qxd 1/27/04 10:11 AM Page 7

THE BEST WALKS 7

proud). Beginning every day in is spectacular. For more informa- Zermatt, in southwest Switzer- tion, call Rail Europe (& 800/ land, and ending in St. Moritz, in 438-7245). See chapter 13. Switzerland’s east, it crosses more • Bernina Express: Like the Glacier than 291 bridges and goes through Express, this railway excursion 91 tunnels, traversing some of the offers sweeping views of otherwise country’s most inaccessible moun- inaccessible alpine landscapes. A tains with an ease that medieval 4-hour trip (each way), it begins pilgrims would have considered an in the German-speaking capital of act of God. You can also take the Zurich, traverses isolated regions train from St. Moritz to Zermatt. where the native tongue is the Naturally, the scenery is breathtak- ancient Romansh language, and ing. The windows are large enough ends in Italian-speaking Lugano. to allow clear views, and a dining The rugged, high-altitude land- car serves lunch with civilized effi- scapes near Chur give way to the ciency. Advance reservations are verdant, palm-lined lake districts required; for more information, near Tirano. It’s the only train call Rail Europe (& 800/438- route in Switzerland that crosses 7245). See chapters 8 and 13. the Alps without the benefit of • The Palm Express: This 2-day tunnels en route. (It also travels itinerary of bus and rail routes some of the steepest railway lines in takes travelers from St. Moritz (in the world, negotiated without the the rugged Engadine district, near benefit of racks and pinions.) Con- Switzerland’s eastern frontier) to sider extending this trip with bus either Brig or (for a supplemental connections from Tirano—the end fee) Zermatt, in Switzerland’s of the rail line—to the resort town southwest. More leisurely than of Lugano. For more information, either of the two rail routes call Rail Europe (& 800/438- described above, it includes a 7245). See chapter 14. hotel night en route. The scenery

4 The Best Walks • Mount Säntis: At 2,463m (8,209 • Grosse Scheidegg: “The great ft.), Säntis is the northern outpost watershed” in English, this popu- of the Alps and the most towering lar walk takes you through some peak in the Alpstein massif. The of the most dramatic scenery in quaint village of Appenzell is a the Jungfrau region of central good place to base yourself. The Switzerland, known for stunning walk itself begins in the village of white glaciers and soaring sum- Wasserrauen, which is linked to mits. One of the highlights of the Appenzell by hourly trains. After walk is the awesome beauty of the 1 1 1 8.9km (5 ⁄2 miles)—4 ⁄2 to 5 ⁄2 Wetterhorn’s massive gray rock hours, depending on your stam- walls. Setting out from the village ina—it ends at the village of of Meiringen, the walk ends 21km 1 Schwägalp, from which you can (13 miles) away (6 ⁄2–9 hr.) in the take a cable car to the viewing resort of Grindelwald. If you get platform overlooking the summit tired, take advantage of the bus of Säntis. Schwägalp is the termi- stops along the way. See “Grindel- nus of the roads coming in from wald” in chapter 7 for more Urnäsch and Neu-St-Johann. See details. “Appenzell” in chapter 4. c 542834 Ch01.qxd 1/27/04 10:11 AM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF SWITZERLAND

• The Bürgenstock Felsenweg: In You’ll pass through the enchant- the Lake Lucerne area, this dra- ing village of Segl-Maria, one of matic hike passes through one of the most charming of the the beauty spots of Switzerland, Romanesch-style villages in east- filled with numerous vistas and ern Switzerland, eventually arriv- alpine foothills. From the ritzy ing at the western edge of Lej da resort of Bürgenstock it is a 7km Silvaplana, a lake of unsurpassed 1 1 (4 ⁄2-mile), 2 ⁄2-hour walk to beauty. See chapter 13. Ennetbürgen. Along the way • The Sottoceneri: It takes its name you’ll come upon spectacular from the 546m (1,820-ft.) water- views of Mount Pilatus and serene shed of Monte Ceneri, lying about Lake Lucerne. The walk ends in 10km (6 miles) southwest of the Ennetbürgen, one of the most sce- town of Bellizona. This is the nic resorts along Lake Lucerne. most southerly part of the Ticino See “Bürgenstock” in chapter 11. (the Italian-speaking section of • The Upper Engadine Lakes: Switzerland). Lake Lugano is one The four highland lakes of the of the dominant features of the Upper Engadine are 1,771m terrain and presents a panoramic (5,904 ft.) above sea level; but as backdrop as you stroll along. The you walk along, it’s like traversing town of Lugano makes an ideal the floor of a valley. Craggy base for walks in the area. The best ranges and scenic lake vistas greet walk is from Monte Bré, at you at every turn as you make 1,011m (3,034 ft.), all the way to 1 your way along the 14km (8 ⁄2- the village of Soragno, a distance 1 1 mile), 3- to 3 ⁄2-hour walk from of some 11km (7 miles; 3–3 ⁄2 Maloja to the resort of Silvaplana. hr.). See “Lugano” in chapter 14.

5 The Best Bike Trips • Around the Katzensee: If you’re through the Valais set off from in Zurich on a hot summer day Martigny station then cross the and you’re longing for the perfect Rhône River to the villages of place to swim, try cycling from Fully, Chataigner, Mazembroz, Seebach station through the and Saillon. The cable-car ride to shaded woods to Katzenruti (pic- Iserables from the terminus of nic spot) and then on to the Riddes is well worth the trip. 1 Katzensee, a lake with a beach and Duration: 1 ⁄2 hours, 20km (12 Waldhaus restaurant. Return via miles). See chapter 8. 1 Affoltern. Duration: 1 ⁄2 hours, • Through the Lake Geneva Vine- 13km (8 miles). See “Attractions” yards: Before leaving from the sta- in chapter 3. tion at Morges, take a look at the • Around the Lake of Murten: castle (military museum). The Start out at the small medieval route then leads up to Lully and, town of Murten (stroll down the via Bussy and Ballens, to Biere. main street and visit the castle). Continuing down a small valley to Carry on to Faoug, Salavaux, Bel- Begnins and Fechy (a scenic look- lerive (a perfect lookout point), out point), you’ll find yourself in and Vully. Duration: 4 hours, Aubonne. Finally, take the sec- 40km (25 miles). See “Murten” in ond-class road, via Lavigny, Vil- chapter 5. lars-sous-Yens, and Lully, back to 1 • In the Rhône Valley, Lower Morges. Duration: 5 ⁄2 hours, Valais: Cyclists on this route c 542834 Ch01.qxd 1/27/04 10:11 AM Page 9

THE BEST SMALL TOWNS & VILLAGES 9

56km (35 miles). See “Attrac- • Lugano’s Hinterland: To discover tions” in chapter 10. the small villages around Lugano, • Along the Shore of Lake set off from the station for the Lucerne: This trip can last a nature reserve at Origlio Lake, and whole day, as there are so many then proceed to Ponte Capriasca spots worth stopping at along the (a parish church with a well-pre- way. Set off from Lucerne station served copy of da Vinci’s Last Sup- and head for St. Niklausen and per). Continue to Tesserete and Kastanienbaum in the direction of Colla, along the left valley side of Tribschen (Richard Wagner Cassarate, through the woods to Museum). The most beautiful Sonvico, and then on to Dino, stretch is along the lake to Ponte di Valle, and Lugano. Dura- Winkel-Horw Beach. Return to tion: 4 hours, 37km (23 miles). 1 Lucerne. Duration: 1 ⁄2 hours, See “Lugano” in chapter 14. 13km (8 miles). See “Lucerne” in chapter 11.

6 The Best Small Towns & Villages • Appenzell: Nowhere is folkloric the longest and most dangerous Switzerland as well preserved. At downhill race staged every January. the base of the green foothills of See “Wengen” in chapter 7. the Alpstein, this old-fashioned • Sion: Although it’s the small capi- country town still has cowmen in tal of the Valais, this old Roman yellow breeches and scarlet waist- town with a French-speaking pop- coats walking its streets. People in ulation is often neglected by those other parts of Switzerland tend to rushing to sample the pleasures of call locals “hillbillies”; and for Zermatt and Verbier. But sleepy many Americans attracted to the Sion has its own rewards. The quirky and the quaint, it evokes town is dominated by the castles the Ozarks. As you wander its cen- of Valère and Tourbillon, and, in turies-old streets, sampling pear its greater days, Sion’s bishops bread and honey cakes while in were big players on the medieval pursuit of local embroidery, you’ll stage. The moody, melancholy know why Appenzell is called the look of the town has inspired such most authentic of Swiss villages. luminaries as Rilke, Goethe, and See “Appenzell” in chapter 4. Rousseau. See “Sion” in chapter 8. • Wengen: On a sheltered terrace • Andermatt: At the crossroads of high above the Lauterbrunnen the Alps, in the Urseren Valley, Valley, this ski resort is one of the this picture-postcard town lies at gems of the Bernese Oberland. No the junction of two alpine roads— cars are allowed in this idyllic vil- the St. Gotthard highway and the lage, and from its streets (cleared road to Oberalp and Furka. From of snow even in winter) and hotel the top of Gemstock, reached by windows, magnificent panoramic cable car, you can see 600 alpine views greet you at every turn. The peaks. Hikers, cross-country sunsets—over crags and water- skiers, and mountain bikers are falls—are the most memorable attracted to this little backwater. we’ve ever seen in Switzerland. The The life of the town is centered on village is best known for hosting the main street, some sections of the World’s Cup (for skiing), with which are still paved with granite c 542834 Ch01.qxd 1/27/04 10:11 AM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF SWITZERLAND

stones. See “Andermatt” in chap- often clay colored, open directly ter 11. on the water, with everything set • Morcote: Eleven kilometers (7 against a backdrop of vineyards miles) south of Lugano, at the and cypresses. For the best view of southernmost tip of the Ceresio this cliché of Ticino charm, climb peninsula, stands Switzerland’s the 400 steps to the Chiesa di most idyllic village. Built in the Madonna del Sasso, which dates Lombard style familiar to those from the 13th century. See “Mor- who have toured the environs of cote” in chapter 14. Milan, Morcote’s arcaded houses,

7 The Best Romantic Getaways • Mürren: It’s so isolated that you your own romance, you’re likely to can only get here by cog railway or find one here. See “Verbier” in cable car. Set on a rocky, high-alti- chapter 8. tude ledge hundreds of feet above • Bürgenstock: The only road lead- the Lauterbrunnen Valley, Mürren ing here is so treacherous that has a handful of chalet-style almost everyone opts to travel by hotels, excellent ski and hiking cog railway or cable car. The town, trails, and sweeping views over the set on a densely forested limestone mountains of the Bernese Ober- ridge high above Lake Lucerne, land. It’s as picture-perfect a Swiss shelters some of the most luxuri- village as you’ll find. See “Mürren” ous hotels in Switzerland. Reserve in chapter 7. part of every day here for climbs • Gstaad: Lying at the junction of along the well-maintained hiking four alpine valleys midway paths, at least one of which skirts between the Bernese Oberland the edge of a very steep and and the Vaud Alps, Gstaad is a panoramic cliff. See “Bürgen- winter capital of the European stock” in chapter 11. glitterati. You can’t get any more • Arosa: One of the highest stylish, and the skiing is good too. (2,000m/6,000 ft.) ski resorts in Regardless of their price range, all Switzerland, Arosa is less expen- the hotels seem to have cozy bed- sive and less forbiddingly elegant rooms, blazing fireplaces, and than its nearest competitor, St. enough schnapps to set the mood. Moritz. Although the skiing here See “Gstaad” in chapter 7. is excellent, you might consider a • Verbier: It lies at the bottom of an romantic getaway in midsummer, enormous alpine bowl ringed with when a network of hiking trails spectacular ski slopes. Although leads to lush forests and small many British travelers appreciate lakes. When you tire of these, Verbier’s charms, the language and cable cars can carry you and your atmosphere of the resort are unpre- companion to alpine heights and tentious and very, very French. You sublime vistas. See “Arosa” in can have a lot of fun in Verbier, and chapter 12. if you didn’t happen to import

8 The Best Skiing The jagged borders of Switzerland in detail in the chapters that follow. contain dozens of worthwhile ski But before heading off to the moun- resorts; the most popular are described tains for a bit of downhill racing, ask c 542834 Ch01.qxd 1/27/04 10:11 AM Page 11

THE BEST SKIING 11

yourself some important questions: skiing are widespread, but the Do you prefer to schuss down a Swiss slopes are hardly the most difficult mountainside in relative isolation or in Switzerland. Skiing is best for accompanied by many other skiers? beginners and intermediates. See How chic and how expensive do you “Gstaad” in chapter 7. want your vacation to be? Do you pur- • Mürren: One of the most oddly sue sports other than skiing (perhaps positioned resorts in Switzerland, hang-gliding, curling, ice skating, or Mürren sits on a rock ledge high tobogganing)? And after a day in the above the Lauterbrunnen Valley of great outdoors, do you prefer to retire the Bernese Oberland. Accessible early to a simple mountain hut with a only by cable car, it’s among the view of the stars, or do you yearn for most picture-perfect resorts, full late nights with the glittering demi- of chalet-style architecture and monde of Europe? Read through the completely free of traffic. Though list below and discover the resort that’s its isolation makes it charming, it right for you. also tends to make the cost of stay- • Grindelwald: This is one of the ing here somewhat higher. Mür- few resorts in the Bernese Ober- ren is closer than any other resort land that occasionally mistakes to the demanding slopes of the itself for a genuine city rather than Schilthorn. From here, experi- an artificial tourist creation. It enced skiers are offered nearly offers a healthy dose of restaurants, 32km (20 miles) of some of the bars, discos, and, unfortunately, finest powder in Europe—and traffic. There are a lot of affordable eagle-eyed panoramas over some accommodations here—it’s not of the most dramatically beautiful nearly as snobby as some of the landscapes in Europe. See “Mür- other resorts. Many skiers use it as ren” in chapter 7. a base camp for long-haul excur- • Verbier: This is the premier ski sions to the slopes of First, resort of French-speaking Switzer- Männlichen, and Kleine Schei- land, with an unpretentious degg. From Grindelwald, the panache and a fun-filled atmos- resorts of Wengen and Mürren are phere. Its restaurants serve some accessible by cog railway and/or of the finest creative cuisine in the cable car (no traffic!). See region; others make do with sim- “Grindelwald” in chapter 7. ple alpine fare for hearty appetites. • Gstaad/Saanenland: Gstaad is If you don’t speak French, you the most elegant pearl in the larger won’t feel uncomfortable—many ski region of Saanenland, on the of the resort’s nightlife options western edge of the Bernese Ober- cater to Brits. (Throughout the land. Although a few inexpensive town, English-style pubs compete lodgings can be found if you’re cheerfully with French cafes.) Ver- lucky, don’t count on it. The jet bier lies at the heart of a sprawl- set come here to see and be seen, ing, high-tech network of cable and there’s a lot to do off the cars and gondolas that will con- slopes: music festivals, shopping, nect you to such relatively people-watching. The architecture unknown satellite resorts as is stubbornly alpine, and the inte- Veysonnaz, Versonnaz, and La rior decorations range from baro- Tzoumaz. The resort is favored by nial and woodsy in the most world-class athletes for the diffi- expensive hotels to kitschy in the culty of many of its slopes. See cheaper ones. Opportunities for “Verbier” in chapter 8. c 542834 Ch01.qxd 1/27/04 10:11 AM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF SWITZERLAND

• Zermatt: It’s the most southwest- town make Arosa ideal for erly of the great Swiss ski resorts, escapists and nature lovers. Fami- occupying a high-altitude plateau lies with children usually like the at the foot of Switzerland’s highest place too. Not as stratospherically and most-photographed moun- expensive or pretentious as St. tain, the Matterhorn. Much of the Moritz, Arosa offers lots of runs resort’s charm derives from its for intermediate skiers. Some of strict building codes—you’ll rarely the resort’s most dramatic slopes, see a modern-looking building which drop more than 1,000m here—and its almost complete (3,000 ft.) from beginning to end, lack of traffic. Access is only via are only for very experienced ath- cog railway from the valley below. letes. See “Arosa” in chapter 12. Known for over a century as the • Davos: It’s larger, with many more party town of the Alps, Zermatt hotels, restaurants, après-ski bars, has always been a place where the and discos than its neighbor, beer drinking and hedonistic— Klosters (see below), with which it sometimes raunchy—revelry last shares access to a sweeping net- into the early-morning hours. The work of ski lifts and slopes. Davos skiing, incidentally, is superb. A attracts a sometimes-curious mix- complicated network of chairlifts, ture of the very wealthy and the cog railways, and gondolas carries more modest. It has slopes that skiers to such peaks as Stockhorn, appeal to advanced skiers, inter- Rothorn, Riffelberg, Trockner mediates, and beginners. One of Steg, and Testa Grigia. See “Zer- the most challenging runs matt & the Matterhorn” in chap- descends from Weissfluhgipfel at ter 8. 2,799m (9,330 ft.) to Küblis at • Arosa: One of the most isolated of 801m (2,670 ft.). See “Davos” in eastern Switzerland’s resorts, Arosa chapter 12. is a relative newcomer to the • Klosters: Named after a 13th- country’s ski scene. Drawing a century cloister founded on the young crowd, it’s filled with con- site, this resort is smaller, more temporary buildings rather than intimate, and less urban than its traditional, chalet-inspired archi- nearest major competitor, Davos tecture. Ample annual snowfall, (see above). A favorite of the royal vast alpine meadows, and only families of both Sweden and one steeply inclined road into Britain, it offers at least two easily

Impressions A Swiss artist living in the south of France said it: “Switzerland does not exist.” This made some Swiss upset. Though Switzerland doesn’t exist, every Swiss citizen has his assault rifle at home (with ammo). Of course they very rarely use their rifle to attack a bank or to hurt their wives. The Swiss used to be mercenaries, but today they don’t want to get involved in other countries’ feuds. Although they use migrant workers, they don’t like foreigners (tourists are okay). Switzerland is this Disney- land of order and social harmony. It is a secure and peaceful place. It is not part of Europe. It might not even really be part of the world. This, I guess, should be good for the banking business. —Olivier Mosset, 1994 c 542834 Ch01.qxd 1/27/04 10:11 AM Page 13

THE BEST FESTIVALS 13

accessible ski zones, the snowfields areas, the most popular of which is of the Gotschna-Parsenn and the Corviglia, on the mountains above Madrisa. There’s a wide range of St. Moritz. Adventurers seeking trails and facilities, offering chal- diversion farther afield head for the lenges to all skill levels. See slopes above the satellite resort of “Klosters” in chapter 12. Sils Maria (Corvatsch) and the • St. Moritz: The premier ski and slopes above the nearby village of social resort of eastern Switzerland, Pontresina (Diavolezza). There are St. Moritz draws a lot of folks plenty of difficult slopes in the familiar with the art of conspicu- region if you seek them out, but ous consumption. This is as close intermediate-level skiers enjoy tak- as you’ll get to Hollywood in ing a cable car from St. Moritz- Switzerland. It’s more distinctly Dorf to the top of Piz Corvatsch, Austrian than French in its flavor. almost 3,300m (11,000 ft.) above Although only one or two authen- sea level. From here, with only one tic buildings remain from the cable-car connection en route, you town’s medieval origins, vast can ski a network of intermediate- amounts of money have been spent level trails all the way back down to installing folkloric fixtures, carved the resort’s lake. St. Moritz boasts paneling, and accents of local gran- some of the most dependable ite in the public and private areas annual snowfalls in Switzerland. of most hotels. Skiing in the region See “St. Moritz” in chapter 13. is divided into distinctly different

9 The Best Festivals • Vogel Gryff Volksfest: This color- evening there’s street dancing in ful tradition has a griffin, a lion, Basel to honor the occasion, and a “wild man of the woods” which originated in the 16th cen- floating down the Rhine followed tury. The purpose of all this mad- by dancing in the streets. It occurs ness? Ostensibly, to strengthen alternately on January 13, 20, or community ties. See “Basel” in 27 (changes every year). On a chapter 5. wintry day in January, a raft, laden • Celebrating the Onion: If your with two drummers, two men favorite sandwich consists of only with large flags, and two can- bread, mayonnaise, and onions, or noneers, who repeatedly fire gun your idea of humor is to poke fun salutes, floats down the Rhine. at buffoons disguised as onions, The principal figure is a savage you’ll love the Swiss capital’s cele- masked man carrying an uprooted bration of Zibelemärit, held annu- pine tree. At Mittlere Brücke (the ally on the fourth Monday of middle bridge) he’s met by a lion November. During the festival, and a bird with an awesome beak. huge sections of the city’s historic At noon the three figures dance on center are filled with vegetable the bridge to the sound of drums. stalls featuring plaited strings of The savage man or Wilder Mann, onions (more than 100 tons might the Leu (lion), and the Vogel be sold in a day here) and other Gryff (griffin) are old symbols for winter vegetables. The barrels of three Basel societies that could be confetti thrown by competing called neighborhoods today. camps of high-spirited students Throughout the afternoon and offer endless photo ops. Facetiously c 542834 Ch01.qxd 1/27/04 10:11 AM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF SWITZERLAND

dressed jesters appear in bars and Royaume, scaled the ramparts and restaurants to poke fun (usually in poured a pot of hot soup on the Swiss-German) at the sometimes- head of a Savoyard soldier. For 3 pompous political posturing of days and nights beginning Decem- their governmental elders. See the ber 11, normally staid Geneva introduction to chapter 6 for more becomes virtually Rabelaisian, information. staging torchlight marches, coun- • L’Escalade: Way back on Decem- try markets, and fife-and-drum ber 11, 1602, the city of Geneva parades, as a festive crowd in was attacked by Savoyard soldiers period costumes marches through trying to scale its ramparts. The the streets of the old city. Many duke of Savoy had lost his former present-day Mère Royaumes— possession and wanted it back. armed with soup pots, of course— Alas, it was not to be. The can be seen. See “When to Go” in denizens of Geneva valiantly held chapter 2. out, and one brave amazon, Mère

10 The Best Museums • Rietberg Museum: Some of bulk of the museum’s 3,000 art- Europe’s most interesting collec- works have included works by tions were amassed by gifted ama- Swiss and German artists from the teurs with enough money to 15th and 16th centuries. Despite pursue their hobbies. This the excellence of its old master museum honors the acquisitive paintings, the museum is especially skill of Baron von der Heydt, who known for its large collections of donated his collection to the city modern works, only a fraction of of Zurich in 1952. It includes which can ever be exhibited at the sculptures and artworks from the same time. See p. 144. Americas and North and South • Kunstmuseum (Fine Arts Asia, archaic Buddhist art, carpets Museum, Bern): Bern’s premier from Armenia, and masks from museum, this civic showcase con- Africa and Oceania. See p. 99. tains everything from 13th-cen- • Landesmuseum (Swiss National tury Italian primitives to one of Museum, Zurich): This museum the most complete collections of traces the growth and develop- works by Paul Klee anywhere. See ment of Swiss civilization from p. 185. prehistory to the modern age. The • Musée d’Art et d’Histoire (Art collections include prehistoric and History Museum, Geneva): artifacts, mementos from the Geneva’s premier museum devotes Roman and Carolingian empires, equal space to exhibits on the his- and artworks from Romanesque, tory of civilization, the civic his- Gothic, and Renaissance periods. tory of Geneva, archaeology, and There are also unusual collections world-class painting—everything of Swiss clocks, Swiss armor and from medieval to modern art. See weapons, and folkloric costumes p. 328. and artifacts from each of the • Verkehrshaus der Schweiz country’s cantons. See p. 98. (Swiss Transport Museum, • Kunstmuseum (Fine Arts Mu- Lucerne): One of Switzerland’s seum, Basel): Its first acquisition newer museums, founded in goes back to 1662. Since then, the 1959, this collection pays homage c 542834 Ch01.qxd 1/27/04 10:11 AM Page 15

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to the railway, auto, and airplane motorcycles, and dozens of other industries that helped propel conveyances. Other exhibitions are Europe into the modern age. It devoted to cable cars, steamships, contains more than 60 historic and spaceships. There’s even a locomotives, 40 automobiles, 50 planetarium. See p. 354.

11 The Best Luxury Hotels • Baur au Lac (Zurich; & 01/220- • Hotel Schweizerhof (Bern; 50-20): Prestigious and historic, & 031/326-80-80): A favorite of it’s one of the country’s grandest diplomats, this grand hotel, built hotels, welcoming prosperous in 1859, is filled with antiques guests since 1844. Richard Wag- and offers great comfort in its ner, Franz Liszt, and John Lennon state-of-the-art bedrooms. Richly are some of the artists who have accessorized, it evokes grand lux- experienced its charms. Today, the ury in the style of the 19th cen- international business community tury. See p. 176. considers it a favorite. See p. 74. • Royal Park Hotel (Kandersteg; • Widder Hotel (Zurich; & 01/ & 800/874-4002): Guests wear 224-25-26): In the heart of the dinner jackets or semiformal city’s Old Town, 10 historic build- gowns every night at dinner at this ings dating from the 15th century very discreet and upper-class hotel. have been transformed into an The same family has maintained intimate luxury inn. Massive solidly impeccable standards for at wooden beams and 16th-century least three generations, and the frescoes still exist from the days decor, which has lots of chiseled when these buildings were part of stone and timbers, seems as solid the butchers’ guild, but now as the Central Bank of Switzerland they’re juxtaposed with glass eleva- itself. Although guests can have a tors and stainless-steel furniture. very good time here, this is a seri- It’s an offbeat, fun choice in a staid ously elegant hotel known for per- city, made especially inviting fect manners and an utter lack of because of the live jazz in the bar. frivolity. See p. 227. See p. 76. • Palace Hotel Gstaad (Gstaad; • Hotel Drei Könige (Basel; & 800/223-6800): Every winter & 061/261-50-50): Claiming to this becomes one of the most be the oldest hotel in Europe, the sought-after hotels in the world, Hotel Drei Könige has operated attracting the chic and fabulous continuously as an inn since 1026. who create what’s been called the It was the site of a meeting most amusing and expensive between two Holy Roman emper- annual house party in Europe. ors and a Burgundian king that Built in 1912, the hotel sits on a eventually established the south- promontory above Gstaad (not western borders of present-day exactly a village unfamiliar with Switzerland. Voltaire, Queen Vic- luxury). Everything is very, very toria, and Kaiser Wilhelm II were luxurious. See p. 232. only a few of this hotel’s famous • Beau-Rivage Palace (Lausanne; guests. Today there’s live jazz in the & 800/223-6800): This is the bar and a cosmopolitanism that most prestigious hotel in Lausanne. permeates every part of this very Undeniably beautiful, it’s a beaux- comfortable hotel. See p. 148. arts masterpiece richly associated c 542834 Ch01.qxd 1/27/04 10:11 AM Page 16

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with the city’s cultural and social you’re tired of waiting in lines at elite. Service is impeccable. museums to admire paintings by Although it has long catered to Rubens and Tintoretto, try this wealthy and conservative French- hotel. Composed of three differ- speaking Swiss, it has made great ent buildings placed behind the efforts in recent years to attract a trees of a 4.8-hectare (12-acre) younger, more international clien- park, it shelters the world-class art tele. See p. 273. collection of the present owner’s • Le Richemond (Geneva; & 022/ father. Plush and comfortable, the 715-70-00): Built in 1875 in the hotel has elaborate gardens, lots of style of a neoclassical palace, Le blazing fireplaces, and very good Richemond drips with Gobelin service. See p. 372. tapestries, French antiques, and a • Kulm Hotel (St. Moritz; & 800/ sophisticated, hardworking staff 223-5695): This is the great bas- for whom absolutely nothing is a tion of luxury of the Engandine, surprise. It also has the most fasci- rivaling even Suvretta House and nating bar in town; but if you Badrutt’s Palace Hotel for decide to have a drink here, don’t supremacy. The greats and near- even think of showing up in torn greats of the world have found jeans. See p. 305. refuge from the snows here in this • The Bürgenstock Hotels (Bür- trio of buildings, the oldest of genstock; & 800/874-4002): If which dates from 1760. See p. 424.

12 The Most Charming Small Hotels • Hotel Romantic Florhof (Zurich; • Hotel Appenzell (Appenzell; & 01/261-44-70): The most & 071/788-15-15): Set on the charming of the little boutique main square of the most folkloric hotels of Zurich, this was origi- town in Switzerland, this hotel is nally the home of a wealthy 15th- outfitted in a rustic country-Swiss century merchant before its theme with touches of marble and transformation. At the edge of Old walnut in the bedrooms. Check Town, the hotel represents superb out the elaborate antique paneling value. See p. 80. in one of the dining rooms, res- • Belle Epoque (Bern; & 031/311- cued from a much older building 43-36): The most sophisticated just before it was demolished. See small-scale hotel in the Swiss cap- p. 126. ital was created out of two historic • Hostellerie des Chevaliers town houses from the Middle (Gruyéres; & 026/921-19-33): A Ages. The hotel celebrates Jugend- Relais & Châteaux property, this stil or a Teutonic Art Nouveau. atmospheric inn stands conve- The place is a jewel. See p. 176. niently aloof from the overrun • Hotel-Restaurant Adler (Stein- tourist center but offers the same am-Rhein; & 052/742-61-61): panoramic views as the chateaux Although its bedrooms are com- at Gruyères. The decor is the fortable and clean, the location, in warmest and most old-fashioned one of the most colorful cities on in town, rich with antiques, the Rhine, is what gets our vote. woodwork, and ceramic stoves. We love the hotel’s frescoed See p. 163. facade, which depicts characters • Hotel Krafft am Rhein (Basel; and plots derived from medieval & 061/690-91-30): It’s inexpen- Rhenish legends. See p. 134. sive and conveniently located a c 542834 Ch01.qxd 1/27/04 10:11 AM Page 17

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short walk from the historic core • The Hotel (Lucerne; & 041/ of the city. Its outdoor terrace 226-86-86): This is central overlooks the river, the town hall, Switzerland’s most charming bou- and the cathedral. The bedrooms tique hotel. Designed by Jean have the kind of worn but decent Nouvel, France’s most famous early-20th-century furnishings architect, it is exclusive and ele- that remind us of these old-fash- gant, luxury personified yet art- ioned family-run pensions of fully simple at the same time. See postwar Europe. See p. 151. p. 358. • Hotel Olden (Gstaad; & 033/ • Hotel Drei Könige und Post 744-34-44): Set on the town’s (Andermatt; & 041/887-00-01): main thoroughfare, the Olden is a Located directly north of the St. great deal compared to other Gotthard Pass at 2,076m (6,920 Gstaad hotels. It enjoys a solid ft.), this hotel was built on the site reputation, especially among the of an inn that has been showing many skiers and mountain guides wayfarers hospitality since 1234. who patronize the restaurant and Even Goethe spent a night at this cafe on the hotel’s ground floor. family-run place in 1775. Some of The rooms are cozy and a bit the rooms open onto balconies, cramped, but comfortable—per- and the hotel’s regional Swiss cui- fect if you’re planning to spend sine attracts both locals and visi- your time out and about. See tors. See p. 383. p. 233. • Hotel Drei Könige (Chur; • Hotel Antika (Zermatt; & 027/ & 081/252-17-25): Its founda- 967-21-51): It’s one of the few tions were laid in the 1300s, and hotels in Zermatt that won’t gob- the same hardworking family has ble up most of your travel budget. owned and managed the place You wouldn’t really guess that it’s since 1911. It provides a note of an affordable option at first cheer in an industrialized, high- glance: Each room has its own altitude town where the tempera- covered loggia, and the lobby is tures can sometimes plummet. Of carefully paneled with weathered special note is its restaurant, one planks. This is a good choice for of the most consistently popular exploring the most famous resort in town. See p. 388. town of Switzerland’s Valais dis- trict. See p. 259.

13 The Best Restaurants • Peter’s Kunststuben (Küsnacht; is as good as it gets in the Zurich & 01/910-07-15): Come here for area. See p. 92. the sublime cuisine of chef Horst • Kronenhalle (Zurich; & 01/251- Petermann. Since he opened this 66-69): It has a hearty, rustic acclaimed restaurant south of alpine theme, but a glance at its Zurich, demanding diners have menu, its clientele, and its artwork been heading here to partake of will quickly convince you that this the constantly changing special- is a supremely distinctive restau- ties. After you’ve sampled his rant. Enjoy paintings by such herby Tuscan dove with pine nuts luminaries as Kandinsky, Matisse, or his lobster with artichoke and Klee, and Braque as you dine. See almond oil, you’ll know that this p. 88. c 542834 Ch01.qxd 1/27/04 10:11 AM Page 18

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• Restaurant Stucki Bruderholz rabbit with mustard sauce. See (Basel; & 061/361-82-22): p. 292. There’s a garden, a collection of • La Favola (Geneva; & 022/311- upscale antique furniture, a clien- 74-37): This is the best Italian tele speaking every conceivable restaurant in Geneva, and possibly European language, and some of the city’s best restaurant of any the best cuisine in northwestern kind. The chefs’ tender pillows of Switzerland, all based on modern tortellini would be hard to find interpretations of French and Ger- this side of Bologna. The cuisine man recipes. See p. 152. has authentic flavor, the service is • Roland Pierroz (Verbier; & 027/ skilled and smooth, and only the 771-63-23): You’d never know freshest ingredients go into the that the simple chalet-style facade kitchen’s skillets and stewpots. See of this place shelters one of the p. 320. most legendary restaurants in the • Le Cygne (Geneva; & 022/908- Valais. One of the finest meals 90-85): When the Noga Hilton we’ve ever had in Switzerland was decided to open a restaurant in its served here on a snowy night. It lakefront hotel, neither expense included a platter of sea bass with nor effort was spared to make it sea urchins, followed by couscous the best in Geneva. This is no of crawfish and pigeon with truf- small feat, considering the tough fles. Gourmets and epicures will local competition. In a plush, cross any number of national bor- upholstered setting of lacquered ders to sample the creative cuisine wood and deep banquettes, of Roland Pierroz. See p. 243. attended by a well-trained army of • Hotel de Ville (Crissier; & 021/ waiters, you can enjoy a cuisine 634-05-05): Philippe Rochat is the that ranks among the most sophis- chef of the moment in Switzerland, ticated in Europe. The desserts are having taken over from Alfred a triumph of the pastrymaker’s art. (Frédy) Girardet, who was hailed as See p. 314. the world’s greatest chef. That was • Le Chat-Botté (Geneva; & 022/ some chef’s toque for Rochat to 716-69-20): Richly sheathed with wear, but he has succeeded in tapestries and accented with the retaining the international acclaim kind of art and accessories that that Girardet enjoyed. Occupying would have made Louis XVI feel a building originally designed as right at home, this restaurant the town hall of a village outside attracts some of the wealthiest and Lausanne, the master continues to most jaded clients in the world. please the hundreds of devoted gas- Everything works smoothly, with tronomes who often travel great nary a glitch, but you can only distances at great expense to dine imagine how hard the staff labors here. See p. 278. to maintain its position as one of • Le Pont de Brent (Brent; & 021/ the best restaurants in Switzer- 964-52-30): No one had even land. See p. 314. heard of Brent until this restau- • Le Béarn (Geneva; & 022/321- rant opened in a late-19th-century 00-28): It’s the best restaurant in house in the heart of the village. Geneva’s business and financial Today the restaurant has put the district, and attracts a who’s who village on the map, in part because of international financiers and of the excellence of such dishes as their clients. The food is deli- mussel-and-leek soup and roast cious—one of the best dishes, c 542834 Ch01.qxd 1/27/04 10:11 AM Page 19

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according to Le Béarn’s many fans, for the cold-weather climate of is the Provence-style roast lamb. Klosters. See p. 400. See p. 317. • Chesa Veglia (Dorf; & 081/837- • Chesa Grischuna (Klosters; 28-00): This business is located in & 081/422-22-22): This restau- what’s said to be the only authen- rant succeeds every evening at tic Engadine-style house—built in creating a genuine sense of unpre- 1658—that remains in all of St. tentious, old-fashioned warmth. Moritz. It contains three different Over the years it has hosted such dining rooms, one of which is an showbiz and political types of yes- informal pizzeria. The other two terday as Winston Churchill, the are rustically elegant hideaways, Aga Khan, Truman Capote, and redolent with warmth and com- Audrey Hepburn. The food is fort, which cater to an interna- hearty and nourishing—perfect tional and very prosperous clientele. See p. 427.

14 The Best Websites for Switzerland • Switzerland Tourism (www.my • Geneva—Welcome to Networld switzerland.com): Click here to (www.geneva.ch/tourism.htm): view photo galleries of Switzer- For a list of important links and land sights and for a list of general information for tourists upcoming events. You can also and business travelers in Geneva, book reservations and purchase try this site. tourist passes through this helpful • About Switzerland/Austria for site. Visitors (http://goswitzerland. • ZentralSchweiz (www.central about.com/cs/switzerland): This switzerland.ch): For beautiful site offers general information photos and the latest winter and about Switzerland, plus Swiss summer “sports reports” through- cams and area maps. out central Switzerland, check • All Travel Switzerland (www.all here. travelswitzerland.com): For com- • Switzerland (www.switzerland. plete booking options throughout com): For the latest news from Switzerland, you can try this site, Switzerland, check out this site’s brought to you by the European “News and Info Services” option. Travel & Tourism Bureau.