Includes Catalan recipes and food Titledictionaries!

Foreverbarcelona.com

Over1 50 market stalls reviewed! © 2012. Marta Laurent Veciana Foreverbarcelona.com

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanic photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior permission of the author.

Texts & Photographs: Marta Laurent Veciana Design: Jane Ashley @ nathalielussier.com

All Boqueria maps are based on the one provided at the market website.

ISBN: 978-84-615-7810-8 Legal Deposit: B-13343-2012 Barcelona, Spain With special thanks to the inhabitants of the market: vendors, owners, waiters and other, who have accepted and welcomed me and my guests, collaborating with me in my tours showing us their produce and answering our questions. Thank you for opening up and developing this friendship relationship with me over the years.

I also want to thank Jane Ashley and Nathalie Lussier and her team, without whom this book wouldn’t have been possible.

– Marta table of contents

ABOUT THE AUTHOR 4 THE RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THE MARKET 26 The inner alleys 27 The outer alleys 31 INTRODUCTION 5 GLOSSARY 36 How to use it 36 MARKET INFO 6 Fruit and berries 38 How to get there 6 Veggies and greens 39 When to come 6 Nuts and sweets 40 Meat and poultry 41 Cold cuts, ham and meat preparations 42 A LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY TO START... 7 Fish 43 Seafood and shells 44 Cheese and dairy 45 THE CENTRAL ALLEY AND THE FISH SECTION 8 Beans and similar 46 Main entrance 8 Spices, herbs and seasonings 47 Central Alley 9 The end of the central alley 12 MARKET RECIPE INDEX 48

THE LEFT HAND SIDE OF THE MARKET 14 The bottom-left area 14 The front-left area 19 about the author

Marta Laurent is a real Barcelona local, She knows all the secrets of the local born in 1976. markets, specially the famous Boqueria, and loves unveiling them for her guests. After finishing her Translation university She can also take you visiting the best degree in the UAB, she spent a year food stores around the city: her favorite traveling to reinforce her language epicurean itinerary around the Old Town skills and came back to Barcelona to includes a selection of gorgeous ancient start working as a protocol tourguide food shops as well as modern specialty in the Sagrada Familia church, Gaudí’s stores. She also does great tapas tour to masterpiece. In 2000 she passed introduce you to the local cooking and her exams to become an official make you experience the local real life. licensed tour guide for Catalonia and Barcelona, and in 2002 she started her In 2009 she spent 2.5 days with the own business as a fulltime freelance journalists of Jamie’s Magazine, the tourguide: Foreverbarcelona.com. monthly publication by the leading chef Jamie Oliver, for a story on the Barcelona Marta has always been a foody: she Tapas Bars. has taken many cooking courses and is delighted to share her pride and She has also worked for the renowned knowledge on the Catalan gastronomy. food journalists Elise Meyer, who This is why she was one of the first mentions Marta on her popular blog Barcelona tourguides to start offering Much Ado About Stuffing. gourmet tours:

4 introduction

The Boqueria is the oldest food market in • Feel free to stop and look, but make Barcelona and the largest in Spain. A stroll sure to leave enough room for locals around its alleys is a feast for your senses: can shop comfortably while you are the colors, the smells, the displays, the admiring the products. market sounds, the voices of the vendors • Feel free to take pictures, but don’t inviting you to buy… The mix of local get the faces of the sellers: they don’t produce with exotic ones is so fascinating, like it. that you’d want to stay forever exploring it! • Feel free to buy, but don’t touch the I’ve been coming to this place almost food: let the vendor choose it for you. every week for many years, and I’m still • Do not eat anything you haven’t discovering new things! I’ve developed a bought yet, unless the seller has relationship of trust and respect with many invited you to taste it. While in some of the people working there, and I’m proud countries it is normal to grab a piece to take my guests around, introducing (olive, chocolate, nut…) to try it before them to the market secrets. Because there buying, here it is considered very rude is so much you can miss if you go on your to do so. own! • The alleys are narrow: give priority to the locals who are busy doing In this book I want to share my favorite their shopping. If anyone complains stalls with you, so you can also enjoy the (it’s likely to be an old lady pulling a experience to the most! trolley), politely apologize with a smile. Here are some important recommen- • Some food might look very different dations in order to mix in well with the from what you are used to: be Boqueria inhabitants and be welcomed by respectful and don’t laugh at it nor them: scream making faces. The vendors are very proud of their products and might be offended by this kind of attitude. It is all common sense, isn’t it? Great! Now you are ready to explore the Boqueria and be amazed by it!

5 marKet info

Official name: Does it mean it’s ok to come anytime? Mercat de Sant Josep (check the chapter on the market history to see why we call it Boqueria • COME IN THE MORNING. Even if it’s open instead!) until the evening, the truth is many stalls start closing after lunch. Make sure to plan Phone: your visit for the morning or at least no later +34 933 182584 than 3pm if you want to experience the market at its peak activity. Website: • AVOID MONDAYS. Since on Sunday most http://www.boqueria.info fishermen didn’t work, on Monday the fish section is only partially open and that affects the activity of the rest of the market, how to get there specially the shops at the botton. If you can , plan your visit for other days. This also Address: applies for any day after a local holyday. La Rambla 91, 08002 Barcelona • AUGUST. Unfortunately, there is little you can do if you can’t travel any other time... But Closest subway station: in any case, I must warn you that in August Liceu (L3 – green line) many stalls are closed for holydays.

When to come Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, from 8am to 8.30pm. Closed on Sunday and local bank holydays.

6 A LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY TO START...

In the old times, back to the Middle Finally, in 1835 the Convent of St. Joseph tourists with delicious fresh juices, Ages, la Rambla was a dry river bed that was burnt during some anticlerical conveniently packed fruit salads, cheese flooded when it rained. However, since protests. The city council decided and ham skewers and all kind of small it didn’t rain so often, it kept dry for most to expropriate the ruins and open a tasting portions to go. of the year. For safety reasons the area arcaded plaza, but in the end the plans wasn’t developed, and along it were built changed and the market occupied the The people working in the market is also the medieval city walls. area instead. changing. While in many cases the stalls That’s why the official name of La have been owned by the same family This free space available near the city Boqueria is “Mercat de Sant Josep”! for generations, nowadays we see how gates became a convenient location often the young locals don’t wish to keep for farmer markets, that have been The first stone was laid in 1840 on the family business as they consider documented to be there since the early St. Joseph’s Day, March 19th. Several the life in the market is too tough: long Medieval markets by the city walls along La Rambla XIII century when meat stalls used to gold coins were buried underneath to working hours, very early morning occupy the area and were soon joined symbolize the wealth the market was starts… And it’s immigrants who are by other kind of produce vendors. called to generate. However, it remained taking over instead, either selling local It looks like the meat sold there was that outdoors until 1914 when the current produce while also introducing other of male goat, “boc” in Catalan, hence the metallic cover was built to protect the items that had been considered “exotic” origin of the name of the market. market from the weather conditions, in our country until very recently (i.e. following the trend of the Iron dragon fruit, papaya, mango, cilantro…), Little by little, la Rambla started Architecture style that came from Paris. or opening ethnic ready-made food concentrating the different markets stands. that were celebrated in the Old Town. La Boqueria has evolved with the city. The space was limited, and started After the 1992 Olympics, Barcelona The market has also increased its social becoming more and more apparent that became a main tourist destination. The activity and presence, participating in all those vendors needed to be moved market stalls have been restored and local and international fairs and events, somewhere else. There were several modernized, and the shop owners have and also opening the Aula Gastronomica attempts to relocate the market, but opened up to new customers: tourist. – a Culinary School. And in 2005 during The arcaded plaza would have looked like Pl. Reial none of them succeeded. Although some 40% of the products the International Market Congress are still sold to hostelry businesses, and celebrated in Washington DC, La the local clients buy a large portion of Boqueria was awarded the prize to the the rest, now many stalls also tempting Best Marketplace in the World.

7 THE CENTRAL ALLEY AND THE FISH SECTION

Main Entrance As you arrive to the Market from La Rambla, you’ll see the Market’s metal structure with the Boqueria Coat of Arm hanging from it. Get ready for this culinary adventure!

1. CAFÉ VITORIA http://cafesvitoria.com

But before entering you might want to get a quick coffee. Café Vitoria is one of my favorite for this, and I never miss one of their authentic Argentinian dulce de leche alfajores. Plus they have fair trade coffee (ask for it!).

2. CANSALADERIA FARRÉS

“Cansalada” means bacon in Catalan, and “Cansaladeria” is a pork butcher. Get your camera ready here! Since 1920 they specialise in suckling pigs, that they proudly exhibit in their counters!

Note: There are a couple of cured ham shops in the main entrance. You can take pictures from afar, but don’t approach them too much: they don’t like people who look and take pictures but don’t buy… But never mind, we’ll see other great ones inside where they are nicer to visitors!

8 Central Alley Now we are entering the Market building. Don’t be scared by the crowd that usually gathers at the beginning: after we pass the first stalls it’ll get better. But you can’t miss that part: the fruit displays here are some of the most spectacular!

3. VIDAL PONS (fresh fruit) 4. VIDAL PONS (dry fruit and nuts) 5. SOLEY ROSER 6. MORILLA http://www.vidalpons.com/ http://frutasyverdurasfrescas.wordpress. The stall to the right of the alley is also com After crossing the first lateral alley, to They are some of the most veteran in owned by Vidal Pons, but here they sell the right there is the third shop owned the market: open since 1897! all kind of dry and caramelised nuts, Back to the other left of the alley, right by Vidal Pons (more dry nuts and Their shop is really gorgeous: it’s candy fruit, marzipan and chocolates… next to Vidal Pons, Soley Roser is mushrooms), and then Morilla. They impossible to take a bad picture here! Tell the shop assistants what you want, another veteran in the market. Roser were some of the first in la Boqueria to You’ll find all kind of fruit, but they and they’ll put it in a bag and weigh it (Rosebush, in Catalan, a traditional start selling packed fruit for the visitors. specialise specially in what is “exotic” and sell it to you. Remember not to eat Catalan name) was the great-great- Their pitahaya or dragon fruit comes for Spaniards: Asian, African and South- anything until you’ve paid for it unless grandmother of the current owner, from Vietnam: it’s got a very exciting American products. If there is one place the vendor has invited you to taste it! opened the shop in 1864. It’s been look, however the truth is that its flavour in town where you can find durian, the At the other end of the stall they have already six generations in the family! is so mild it can be a bit disappointing! so-called “King of Fruits”, is here. They an amazing range of candy of all shapes They also specialise in exotic products. sell this smelly fruit of delicate taste and and colours. Don’t miss their giant Their greens are gorgeous too! aggressive spiky outside, whole or in lollypops! pieces. But beware, it’s very expensive and a small portion can easily cost 20€! The quality of their local Mediterranean product is also outstanding, but again, pricey. Locals know that for apples, pears and other usual fruit they’ll get better prices in the side alleys. But for some really exotic ones, Vidal Pons is the only place were you’ll get them! 9 Central Alley

CODFISH FRITTERS Ingredients: • 250gr (0.5 pounds) of salt cod. Boned, desalted, drained and finely chopped. • 2 eggs • 3 cloves of garlic (peeled and minced) • Parsley to taste (washed and minced) • 2 tablespoons of flour • Olive oil • Some water or milk (in case the mix is too thick)

instructions: 1. Beat the eggs well with the garlic and the parsley. Add the 7. BACALLANERIES GOMÀ chopped codfish and mix in well. Slowly add the flour and http://bacalla.com/ keep mixing until it turns into a paste. If the mixture is too thick, add some water or milk. A bit further, right before entering already desalted: the water has to be 2. Pour the olive oil in a deep frying pan, and heat it until the fish section, 2 codfish shops often replaced to make sure the salt will hot (as if you were going to make some French fries). Drip flank the alley: Bacallaneries Gomà be completely eliminated. The Gomà are a tablespoon of the mixture into the oil. Keep adding (“bacallà” is codfish in Catalan). Cod true experts on that! On the stall to the tablespoons, making sure they don’t touch with each other, isn’t a Mediterranean fish, however, right you can often see codfish cooked in as the paste will swell. If necessary, turn them over so both the possibility to keep it salted for un different ways: “a la llauna” (a traditional sides of the fritter are cooked. unlimited amount of time allowed Catalan recipe with garlic and paprika), 3. They will be ready when they are of a light golden brown the people of the inland to eat fish. in croquettes, as stuffing for roasted colour. This is how in Catalonia our culinary “piquillo” red peppers…And on the stall 4. Place them on a plate covered with paper towels, to absorb tradition features over 100 recipes for to the left you can buy skewers of cod the extra oil. You can eat them warm, but they are also codfish. You can buy it salted, then fritters, as well as other tapa-style fish good at room temperature, even one day later. remove the salt at home (that’s what my dishes to go. grandmother used to do!), or buy it

10 Central Alley

8. PALMIRA NEUS 10. The central alley of the fish section http://peixospalmiraneus.com/ In the central alley, the sellers are more used to We are finally entering the fish section! tourists and you’ll be welcome to approach and take This is one of my favorite stalls: they are pictures (but again remember not to touch, and very nice and will let you watch their respect the clients that are doing their shopping). alive lobsters and crabs and take pictures Here you’ll see the kind of fish and seafood locals eat: as long as you don’t touch them. I’m calamari and squid, hake, sardines, monkfish, sole always amazed at how many different and turbot, seabass, bream… types of shrimp and scampi there are!

The alley to the right of Palmira Neus is beautiful, but the vendors aren’t always happy to have tourists taking pictures, specially when they stop right in front of their stalls and block the way to their clients. So I recommend you walk around without stopping, or just skip that part.

9. Mª LUISA SANZ GAÑA

This stall is tuna lovers paradise! They have the freshest in town: huge whole tuna fish are quartered in front of you, and ruby red chunks are exhibited over the ice-covered counter. It’s quite impressive to see how big these animals ca be! And if you are lucky (but that only happens once in a while…) might get to see a swordfish head. The best sushi restaurants buy here.

11 Central Alley

11. ANGELINA I MIQUEL

Angelina and Miquel specialise in beach fish and “catchs of the day”. Make sure to check their left corner: most of the days you can see there octopus, stingray and morays or eels. Quite unique!

CALAMARI RINGS Ingredients:

• 2 large calamari or 4 medium, cleaned and cut in rings • 125 gr flour (1 cup) The End of the Central Alley • 175ml sparkling water (0.75 cups) We are now in the bottom area of La Boqueria. You’ll see here “normal • salt to taste looking” stalls where locals shop: butchers, fruit stalls, olive shops… They • olive oil might not be as spectacular as the ones at the entrance, but they are an • one or two lemons important part of the “real life” of the market. However, there are a few places that are worth mentioning. instructions:

1. Put the calamari rings on a colander and reserve in the 12. PESCA SALADA MARTÍNEZ fridge. 2. Mix the flour with the sparkling water. As we leave the fish section, make sure 3. Sprikle the calamari rings with salt, then coat well with the to check this little stall. They sell all kind flour mix. of salted fish: cod of course, but also dry 4. Deep fry in a frying pan in hot oil tuna (“mojama”, in Spanish: considered 5. Let it drain the excess of oil before serving the “cured fish ham”), fish caviar and 6. Serve warm with lemon aside (some people like them with anchovies. They also have dried fish lemon juice on them). bones, and even dried octopus.

12 12 Central Alley

TOILET TIP We’ve reached the end of the central alley. Here are the toilettes. If you have purchased anything, make sure to keep your ticket handy: Clients of the market can use the toilettes for free, but if you haven’t bought anything you’ll have to pay a few cents to use it!

13. BAR CENTRAL 14. LA CARTE DES VINS http://www.lacartadevinos.com/ Eating at the market is a fun experience. Central isn’t one of the most famous The wine shop in the market. Despite bars of La Boqueria, but their food is being a French franchise, you can also great and fresh, and it has a more local find here great local wines and cavas. flavour than some other. I’m all for Catalan products, so I’d recommend cava from the Penedès region, slightly sparklings from Alella, whites from Empordà or reds from Priorat. However, let the shop assistant recommend you: everywhere in Catalonia our wine makers are struggling to think outside the box and produce varieties that weren’t so common in their counties, and they are getting fabulous results! 13 THE LEFT HAND SIDE OF THE MARKET

So we’ve arrived to the bottom of the market, now let’s explore the area on The Bottom-Left Area the left of La Boqueria! This is one of my favorite areas, as there are lots of This part of the itinerary has been marked with red arrows. I recommend you unusal products! follow this order if you don’t want to miss anything… however, it’s also fun to explore the market your own way, so feel free to venture around the alleys throwing the compass away!

15. L’ECONÒMICA

If you are now regretting you didn’t buy any chocolates at the entrance… Here is your second opportunity! In this modernist stall you’ll find great chocolates! Well, in fact, they only sell chocolates from Autumn to Spring, as in the Summer it’s too hot and they change the brown of cacao for a rainbow of colourful sweets and candy!

16. VIDAL PONS

Next door, Neus (again from Vidal Pons) has always ready some catànies for you to try. This Catalan chocolate has a heart of almond or hazelnut covered in white chocolate and sprinkled in cacao. Delicious!

14 The Left Hand Side of the Market

17. PETRÀS http://www.boletspetras.com/

This delicatessen shop that has been open for over 35 years deserves being divided in four different sections.

17A. The fridge 17B. Fruits of the forest 17C. Fresh mushrooms 17D. Dry mushrooms

In the refrigerated counter they display Beside the fridge, you’ll see a selection This is definitely what Petràs is famous The baskets full of dry mushrooms make delicacies such as rabbit ribs (very of fresh culinary herbs (mint, parsley, for: their mushroom selection is the me want to buy them and start cooking appreciated in Catalonia!), Escalivada sage, rosemary, thyme…), wild widest in Barcelona. Wild, cultivated, right away! Some time ago here they (Catalan recipe for roasted vegetables), berries (raspberries, wild strawberries, local or imported. The best time to also used to sell edible insects imported foie gras, duck magret, and when in blackberries, currant…) as well as edible come is Autumn after when the “rainy” from Asia and Africa, but unfortunately season, white truffles that can cost over flowers and baby vegetables. season has started (it doesn’t rain that the Spanish law doesn’t regulate them 3,000 euro per kilo! often here, but we do need a few storms as aliments yet and they were force to to get our mushrooms growing our remove them from their offer… As a countryside!). If you are here in Autumn, less exciting alternative, you can still see make sure to try some “rovellons”, two bags full of alive snails: scargots are the most appreciated mushroom in not just a French dish, in Catalonia we our land: most local restaurants serve even celebrate a Snails Festival in the them when in season! We actually go city of Lleida that gathers thousands of nuts about mushrooms and you’ll see participants! plenty of mushroom recipes in bars and restaurants in the cold months.

15 The Left Hand Side of the Market

18. ROSTISSERIA RAMON http://www.apats.com

At Rostisseria Ramon they claim to have the best roasted chicken in the world. It might be true or not, but what I truly Catalan-style chicken appreciate here is their ready-made Ingredients: traditional Catalan plates. They have baked potatoes with aioli, cannelloni • One chicken, cut in pieces • Pine nuts, prunes, chestnuts, (yes, the Catalan cooking is very • Two tomatoes, diced raisins… influenced by the Italian gastronomy, • White wine • Salt, black pepper, cinnamon and cannelloni have become a holiday • Cognac • 1 onion, chopped dish in our land!), chicken with nuts and • 20 almonds • Rosemary and thyme raisins the way my mom would make • 3 garlic • Olive oil it, Empordà-style snails, meatballs with • Broth green peas and squid (my mom makes that too!), black rice made with squid ink Instructions: and fideuà (Barcelona recipe similar to paella but using noodles instead of rice: 1. Season the chicken with the salt, the pepper and cinnamon it’s eaten with aioli sauce aside). 2. Roast it until it starts getting golden, and then add the onion and herbs A great opportunity to try home-made 3. Add the diced tomato. Catalan food for a very affordable price! 4. Add the wine and cognac 5. Cover and let simmer for some 20 minutes 6. Add the almonds and garlic 7. Add two glasses of broth 8. Keep cooking until the chicken is tender 9. Remove the chicken, and add the nuts and dried fruit 10. Let it simmer for another 20 min. and keep adding wine or broth if needed 11. Serve warm 12. Good appetite! Did you know that “aioli” comes from “all i oli” , that means “garlic and oil” in Catalan?

16 16 The Left Hand Side of the Market

19. ALIMENTACIÓ FORES 20. LAURA I MARC BESORA 21. MARISC LUCI I NOEMI 22. FORN DE BETLEM http://www.vidalpons.com/ The Besora family owns several stalls in I always stop here in my tours to show “Forn” means bakery in Catalan, and this Here you have a family-owned grocery La Boqueria, and you’ll be able to spot people some unique seafood that is is the only one in the Market. specialising in cold cuts and cheeses. them because their sign is red an blue.. very appreciated by Spaniards. In one The renowned bread shop of the They will vacuum pack your goodies if the colours of the FC Barcelona team! hand you have razor clams (“navajas” Raval district also owns this stall in La you wish. And if you are looking for foody Over this background you’ll see the or “navalles”). They are relatively easy Boqueria. You’ll find here a delicious ideas as gifts, I recommend their selection names of the members of the family to find in tapas bars and seafood variety of breads: with seeds and nuts, of delicatessen foie-gras tins of different who own the stall, as well as the year restaurants: grilled with some garlic and different flours… Also great breakfast varieties that come in small sizes. when they took up the business. parsley. Yum! In the other hand you’ll see buns (try the “ensaïmada” the Mallorca Apart from the gorgeous display, I love barnacles (“percebes”). Never thought roll that rivals with croissants in any One of my favorite cheeses that you their fresh herbs that flood the corner they were edible? In the Atlantic Coast, Spanish café) and “coca”: Catalan flat can buy here is called “Teta Gallega”, with a wonderful smell… North of Spain, you need a special breads with sweet or savoury toppings. Galician Boob. It’s a soft cheese with a license to pick them and you have to peculiar shape, and it’s great eaten with follow some very strict safety rules some good countryside bread or some as they grow in areas where the huge quince paste. The legend says that in the ocean waves crash and it can be quite Middle Ages, the bishop of Santiago de dangerous getting there... Compostela (capital of de Galicia region) complained about the round shapes of the sculpture of Queen Esther in the Barnacles are harder to find in restaurants: only expensive “marisquerías” main entrance of the Cathedral and (specialty seafood restaurants) will have them. They are quite easy to prepare: ordered the sculpture to be mutilated in order to flatten her body… The locals Heat a generous amount of salted water (ideally you’ll use seawater, but… that’s were so offended that they started only ideally!) and throw the barnacles when it starts boiling. Wait until the water is producing boob-shaped cheeses to boiling again, and remove from the water. They are served whole, then each guest complain… will clean their owns by removing their dragonish skin. 17 The Left Hand Side of the Market

23. OLIVES FRANCESC 24. TAKE AWAY FOOD STALLS 25. THE FISH ALLEY WITH LOCAL FEEL

This is a great place to buy olives, oil and In this area concentrated several new The central fish section we’ve seen vinegars. What would Spain be without stalls of food to go, however at the before is spectacular… but for a bit of olives, anyway? I suggest you get some moment when this guidebook is written reality check it’s interesting to walk past “arbequina”: a tiny bitter olive that is there are works going on in the back this other fish section on a side alley of often served as an appetizer or in salads. of the market and only one of them La Boqueria. The displays might not be Their oil is also highly appreciated: the remains: Molt Bo. as outstanding, but you’ll get the feel of D.O. Siurana is the most famous, but being on a neighbourhood off the beaten I also like the D.O. Empordà. Another • Molt Bo (or Pazzta). The name path, surrounded by real locals busy recommendable olive to try if you like of this stall means “Very Good” doing their shopping and trying to get spicier tastes is “gazpacha”. They are in Catalan, and they specialise in the best price. marinated in a spicy mix, pickles and handmade fresh pasta, to go or to cumin. buy and cook at home. http://www.pazzta920.com

18 The Left Hand Side of the Market

The Front-Left Area Now we are approaching the entrance of the market again. Here again, the type of specialties changes. That’s the magic of La Boqueria: so many different things to see every step you take!

26. AVINOVA BOQUERIA

Avinova is a very elegant poultry and game shop, will quite a few surprising products. That’s why they also deserve to be divided in several sections:

26A. Game window case 26B. Chicken and rabbit 26C. Delicatessen 26D. Freezer

If you are following order of the itinerary The rest of the products are there I often buy here their yummy croquettes Around the corner you’ll see the freezer I created and you are visiting the market pretty much the whole year around: all (gorgonzola cheese and walnuts are my where they keep the imported meats. in Autum, the first thing you will be kinds of chicken, rosemary&thyme-fed favorite!), and they also have patés and It’s one of the sole places in town where able to see is their unique window with rabbits (their meat is said to have a very foie. you can buy deer, boar and even…. freshly hunted mountain rabbits, hare, parfumed taste)… They also often have kangaroo! faisans, quails, ducks, wild pigeons, rooster combs (we eat them in stews, turtledoves… (I’m afraid the rest of the soups and casseroles) as well as eggs year that window has only a few bags of from inside the chicken before they snails…) grow their shells (!)

19 The Left Hand Side of the Market

27. KIOSKO UNIVERSAL Breakfast and lunch only (closes after lunch)

This is one of the three best tapas bars in La Boqueria. They specialise in fresh fish and seafood, and they also have a SPANISH OMELETTE wonderful mix of sautée mushrooms. If you want to keep your budget under Ingredients: control, this is a good tip for you: look • 2 eggs for the day menu in their blackboards. • 2 medium-sized potatoes For a very reasonable set price you’ll get • 1 onion to choose a main course with drinks and • olive oil dessert – their popular “Menú del Dia”. • salt

Instructions: 1. Slice the potatoes and cook them in a frying pan with 28. SIMPLEMENT OUS enough oil so they are completely covered. When they are get a golden colour, reserve in a colander to drain the If you thought all eggs where white and excess of oil. about the size of a thumb… you were 2. In the same pan, fry the onion until it browns and wrong! caramelises. It is important to cook it over a low heat so it doesn’t burn. Once it’s cooked, let it drain too. In this stall you’ll be amazed at the large 3. Whisk the eggs in a bowl. The trick for a spongy omelette is variety of different eggs they sell: from to whisk vigorously! the large ostrich and emu eggs to the 4. Mix the eggs with the sliced potatoes and the onion, adding tiny mottled quail ones. They also have some salt to taste. duck and goose eggs, when in season. 5. Let it seat for 10min, so the potatoes get imbued with the eggs. 6. Pour in a frying pan with just a little really hot oil. 7. When the down side is brown, put a dish over the frying pan and turn it upside down in order to brown the other side. Try to leave the inside of the omelette slightly underdone. Did you know that you need a hammer to 8. You can serve it warm, but cold it’s also good. break an ostrich egg? And that it’s equivalent 20 20 to 15 chicken eggs? The Left Hand Side of the Market

Quim, the bar owner

29. SYMPOSIUM 30. EL QUIM DE LA BOQUERIA vegetables, zucchini, eggplant… Ask http://www.elquimdelaboqueria.com them to recommend you! Exotic food has also its place in the Breakfast and lunch only (closes after market. Symposium has just moved lunch) Their fish and seafood is also delicious: from the bottom of the market due razor clams, shrimp, calamari, cockles… to the works in progress to this more This is one of the Tapas Bars you should And their mushrooms! And their accessible location. They offer greek definitely NOT MISS! artichokes! (again, in season only – specialties such as taramasalata, tatziki, Autum!). I love their thinly-cut deep- dolmade, greek olives and baklava. It’s a Quim is a Catalan nickname for Joachim, fried artichoke chips! fun option for take-away food! the owner of the bar. You’ll recognize him for his shaved head in the many pictures Don’t forget to ask for their croquettes: decorating the place, and you’ll see him everyday they have different flavours, always busy serving clients. It’s amazing and I’m a big fan of them! how so many people can all fit in such a small cubicle and work co-ordinately Note: in 2011 they got one of their neighbouring stalls without bumping into each other! to extend their bar. But beware! It doesn’t mean it’ll be much easier getting one of its coveted stools! You’ll still have to come outside of locals lunchtime to avoid Their specialty are fried eggs: with having to wait too long to seat. “llangueta” (small fried fish), “chipirones” (baby squid – that’s my favorite!), caramelised foie or mushrooms (Autumn TIP FOR VEGETARIANS: only). I often order also a few different omelette portions: they vary depending If you don’t eat meat nor fish, here you’ll have the best on the day, but they never miss the tapas experience ever! Even if you don’t do eggs, there Spanish potato omelette, and often will be enough mouth-watering dishes to try for you! have some with onion & parsley, roasted 21 The Left Hand Side of the Market

31. MARISCS GENARO

And again back to the fish section, apart from their magnificent array of shells and seafood, I’d stand out that in December it is possible to see at Genaro sea urchins – “garotes” in Catalan. They were one of Dalí’s favorite dishes! ROMESCO SAUCE Ingredients: • 1 garlic bulb • 3 red tomatoes • 1 slice of bread • A handful of roasted almonds and hazelnuts • 2 garlic cloves • Olive oil, vinager and salt, as much as you like. • Some sweet red pepper powder. 32. FRUITES I VERDURES JESÚS Y CARMEN • 1 nyora (it’s a Catalan dry sweet red pepper: smaller, roundish The colourful strings of chilli and garlic hanging and a bit spicy). It is sold dry and you’ll have to put it in water to from Jesús and Carmen stall is probably one of soften it. Here is a picture (I took it beside an onion to give you the most photographed corners in the market! an idea of its size): They have all kinds of spicy peppers and chilli, local imported. Of course, amongst them you’ll Instructions: be able to buy the famous Havanero, the hottest 1. Roast the garlic bulb and the tomatoes in the oven. chilli in the world! 2. Frie the slice of bread. 3. Mix all the ingredients in a food processor. They also specialise in species. Apart from the 4. Serve on top of grilled asparagus, or on a green salad, or over mixes needed for Asian and other exotic foods, some baked potatoes, or as a sauce over white fish. you’ll find here top quality Spanish saffron as well as smoked red pepper (“pimentón”) and “nyora” the dry sweet pepper you’ll need to make your Romesco Sauce.

They also often have raw olives (for those who want to marinated them at home) and all kinds of nuts with their shells. And they also have caramelised cherry tomato and star-fruit – unexpected flavours to surprise your guests!

22 22 The Left Hand Side of the Market

33. MENUTS ROSA http://www.menutsrosa.cat

Rosa is the forth generation of the same family selling offal in this market. You see her and her mother everyday serving their clients, helped by a couple of South American employees. Animal organs have always been a very important part of the Spanish cooking, although the mad-cow pandemy in one hand and the rushed life of our times in the other, has made that locals prepare this products less and less often at home. This is why Rosa, young and entrepreneur, has finished her Professional Chef studies and now she also sells her offal cooked and packed so you can enjoy them at home!

It makes such a great contrast seeing first the raw tongue, tripe, leaver, brain… even coagulated blood and bull testicles! (and other things as well: try and see what you can recognize!), then the same meats Please approach offal shops with curiosity but a lot of respect! transformed in the yummy stews The sellers are very proud of their produce and are easily with vegetables, nuts and more! offended by visitors making fun of it outloud.

23 The Left Hand Side of the Market

34. MAS XARCUTERS www.masgourmets.com

But if the offal was too much for Ibérico: Other Names You Should Know: you, then look around and enjoy A better type of ham, it’s made with a the beautiful hams at Mas. The Mas special Iberian breed of black pigs. In Pata negra: family has become an empire of local turn, it can also be divided in different This is a controversial denomination: charcuteries since their grandparents quality degrees. From less good to since Iberian black pigs have “black started the business in 1945: only in best: legs” (pata negra), this expression was La Boqueria they own 5 stalls! (out often used to designate high quality of the 14 in Barcelona, and that’s not Cebo: hams. However, other non-Iberian counting the newly open ones in Pigs are fed grain only. pigs have also black legs and that led Madrid…) to some cheating. As a result “pata Recebo: negra” isn’t anymore a synonym of So how do you choose your Spanish Pigs that are only free-ranged for great ham and many top producers ham? There are so many varieties… a few months, then fed grain and avoid that expression nowadays. Let me help you out! fodder. Jabugo: Serrano o País: Bellota: Village known for their wonderful Made with white pigs, this is the Free-ranged pigs that have only Bellota hams. It’s a guarantee your cheapest variety of ham, the one eaten egg corns they find in the ham will be top quality. that families would buy for their oak forests. kids sandwiches but not really for Joselito: Top quality commercial a gourmet experience. However, brand of hams. it is true that when cured for over 15 months their taste can be much 5J: Top quality commercial brand of better than one would usually expect hams. for Serrano. Valderado: Top quality commercial brand of hams.

Jamón de Teruel: Serrano ham with DO (Denomination of Origin label), from the Teruel area.

24 The Left Hand Side of the Market

CHICKPEAS WITH SPINACH

Ingredients: • 300 gr of cooked chickpeas, drained • 200 gr of spinach, washed thoroughly and drained 35. LLEGUMS CUITS BOQUERIA • A handful of raisins • A handful of pine nuts A traditional type of stall where you They also have home-made pasta • 2 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced can buy all kind of beans. I have many dishes. • Olive oil memories of going to the market with • Salt and pepper my mom or grandma and buying a I’ll tell you a secret, sometimes when bag of cooked chickpeas or lentils to I finish my tours near the market by instructions: improvise an earthy lunch, and I still lunchtime and I feel too lazy to cook 1. Slice the spinach and set aside. buy them from time to time, as I prefer myself lunch, I buy a box of one of their 2. Roast the garlic in a frying pan with some oil at medium the market products to the canned bean dishes. A very healthy lunch! heat until it browns. ones from the supermarket. 3. Add the chickpeas. Keep stirring so they don’t stick to the frying pan. Here you can buy them dry (to soak 4. Add the spinach and keep stirring. them at home, if you have the time…), 5. Add the pine nuts and the raisins. or just boiled, or already prepared with 6. Stir for another minute or so, and remove from the heat. different ingredients: I love their lentils 7. Sprinkle with oil, salt and pepper to taste before serving salad, specially when in Autumn they warm. add some pomegranate seeds! Yum!

25 25 THE RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THE MARKET

We've covered half the market so far, but the other side of La Boqueria has still many more surprises awaiting you! This last section is rich in lush fruit and vegetable stalls, fruit juice vendors... You can also see here traditional butchers and even a farmer market! And of course, I'll tell you where are the best places to eat! From great bars to convenient take away stalls!

ARE YOU READY FOR SOME MORE FUN?

26 The Inner Alleys

The itinerary in the Right Hand Side of the Market doesn't cover one quarter first and the other later, as we did with the other side. In order to provide you with a really efficient order, we'll be doing first the inner alleys and then the ones in the outter right edge. Let's get started!

36. BAR PINOTXO Breakfast and lunch only (closes after lunch)

The other TOP BAR you shouldn’t miss in the market! The owner, Juanito, is a local star: he has written a book, been interviewed on TV… He is very outgoing and fun, and treats his guests as if they were from his family. Talking about family, you’ll also see there his nephew, Jordi, taking care of the clientele. Their life is the market and they love feeding people the best of it! Just let them recommend you what to try and you won’t be deceived! Be ready for real local flavors: their specialties are baby squid with beans and chickpeas with black pudding. Delicious! You can also try there “callos” (tripe), codfish, seafood…Or if you are arriving for breakfast, make sure to have one of his foamy “tallats” (small cappuccino) with a sweet “xuxo”, a long deep- fried doughnut filled with cream! They are so good you’ll cry!

The bar is always packed with people, but their exceptional location right next to the entrance has enabled them to add a few tall tables with stools in the sidewalk. While I prefer the counter because it’s much more livelier and I love seeing them work, the tables are a good option for small groups or an alternative when all the seats at the bar are taken. However, don’t rely on the outside tables: come early or outside of the main meal-hours to grant you a spot!

TIP FOR VEGETARIANS: While at Pinotxo they are mostly into meat and seafood, if you ask Juanito he’ll be happy to prepare you their veggie specialty: “trinxat”. While this Catalan dish based in potato and cabbage usually comes with bacon, he’ll make it without for you. So good!

27 The Right Hand Side of the Market

37. TORRONS VICENS 38. THE FRUIT JUICE BARS 39. OUS DE CALAF http://www.vicens.com/ Two fruit stands have specialized Calaf is a village of the interior Called torró in Catalan, turrón in in freshly squeezed fruit juices Catalonia famous for its cold Spanish, this is a favorite local of all kinds. In one side, Alfonso temperatures and its eggs. Christmas desert made mostly Conchi, and in the other one, Here you’ll find another great with nuts and marzipan, but also Jaime i Montse. Both are great: just selection of them. Apart from the chocolate and other ingredients look around until you find your exotic ostrich and emu, look for such as egg, coconut and candied favorite flavor (I love any with “periquitas”, eggs laid by young fruit. In this stall, run by one of coconut on it!). A good tip: if you chicken, or even “primer ou” – the the most traditional Catalan torró come around 5 or 6pm, they are very first laid by the chicken. company, you can buy it the whole usually starting to offer tempting year around (it usually disappears 2x1 offers! from most shops towards the end of January…). They usually have free samples to try. The most typical are “Agramunt” (hazenults covered in caramel and served between two wafers), “Xixona” (thinly minced almonds), “Alacant” (whole almonds covered in hard white caramel) and “Crema” (egg marzipan with brulée sugar sides).

28 The Right Hand Side of the Market

40. LLEGUMS CUITES BOQUERIA

The second stall owned by the Ponsa family. Beans, rice and pasta plates to take away, as well as dry and cooked beans to use on your own creations.

White beans are a must in the Catalan CATALAN CREAM cuisine, and are “the” side-dish for butifarras (our large pork sausages). Chickpeas are great Catalan-style made Ingredients: (sautée with pine-nuts and raisins), and lentil stews with red pepper and • 1 liter (0.2 gallons) of milk chorizo are another traditional winter • 10 egg yolks Spanish dish. • 150gr (0.35 pounds) of sugar • 50gr (1.5 ounces) of corn flour • 1 dash of vanilla • Zest of 1 lemon (whole, not grinded) • 1 cinnamon stick 41. MARISC NINETA This seafood stand runned by a family instructions: of former fishermen has reoriented their 1. In a blender, blend well the milk, the egg yolks, the sugar, business to fish-based take away food. the vanilla and the corn flour. Here you can have your fish tapas to go! 2. Pour on a casserole, add the lemon zest and the cinnamon Mostly fried stuff, like in the authentic stick and heat at high temperature but keep stirring to Andalusian “freidurías”: cod fritters, prevent it reaching boiling point, until it gets a thick creamy calamari rings, fried baby fish, shrimp consistence without lumps. skewers… They also have a section for 3. Pour on individual clay bowls or casseroles and let it cool fresh and frozen seafood. down. 4. For a final touch, cover the surface in sugar and burn with a hot kitchen burner or blowtorch.

29 The Right Hand Side of the Market

42. ESLICE PIZZA 43. INFORMATION POINT 44. LA MASIA DE LA BOQUERIA 45. ORGANIC MARKET http://www.eslice.es/ http://www.antoniaorganickitchen. The information point of La Boqueria This is one of my favorite charcuteries. com/ La Boqueria has also a space for hand- is located in a pretty wrought-iron Apart from their Spanish Ham and made pizza. At Eslice you’ll see them modernist stand. There you can get wonderful cheeses, don’t miss their Vegetarian tapas and food to go. The preparing the dough, shaping the pizzas free market maps and buy cooking “llamineres” (baby Catalan salamis) owner, Antonia, is an eccentric lady and adding the toppings before baking books, apart from getting information and their truffled catalana (pink cooked (you’ll recognize her by her funky them. Delicious home-made pizza by on the many activities that are regularly Catalan sausage with black truffle). But hairstyling) who has created a little the slice, with the freshest ingredients organized here. my top favorite are the many-flavored vegetarian empire in town. She also runs from the market! sausages: with mushrooms, spinach, a nearby restaurant called “Organic” and La Boqueria has also a space for hand- vegetables… Their croquettes and has many other projects in mind. Her made pizza. At Eslice you’ll see them hamburgers are also very creative. motto is “organic is orgasmic!”. preparing the dough, shaping the pizzas and adding the toppings before baking them. Delicious home-made pizza by the slice, with the freshest ingredients from the market!

30 The Right Hand Side of the Market

The Outer Alleys

46. BUREQUITOS 47. XOCOATL 48. CARNISSERIA CASANOVAS 49. OLIVES I CONSERVES EL PIÑOL

Another fun vegetarian option: here Chocolate lovers’ heaven. Don’t miss The largest butcher in La Boqueria. Top Another great olive store. Look for the they offer practical finger food: quiches, their truffles of all kinds. Make sure to try quality meats cut in the Spanish way, stuffed olives and the Italian baby red stuffed puff pastries and phyllo cakes… the cava truffle! They also specialise in but also Argentinean and Uruguayan peppers also stuffed with tuna fish, goat and also yummy deserts such as fruit torró (the Christmas desert) that is made style on request. cheese or capers. Their baby eggplants, tarts, cookies and more. For a great snack by themselves. They even burn the crab meat and anchovies (“boquerons”, or a light lunch. “crema” flavoured one in the shop! when marinated in vinegar) are also delicious.

31 The Right Hand Side of the Market

50. SERRANO http://peixospalmiraneus.com/ SAMFAINA This dish is similar to the French ratatouille, but we cut the A great modernist stall selling gorgeous vegetables in smaller dices. meats. Here you can find real “toro de lidia”, that is, the bull killed during a Ingredients: bullfight. They also have free-ranched • 1 eggplant veal, baby goat, lamb and high quality • 2 small red bellpeppers or 1 big one beef. • 1 zucchini • 1 large onion • 4 or 5 red ripe tomatoes • Olive oil • Salt and pepper to taste • Optional bay leaf

51. THE FARMERS MARKET instructions: Mornings only. 1. Start cutting the eggplant in small dices. 2. Heat some olive oil in a large deep frying pan and add In this side of the Market opens the the eggplant. Keep shaking it so it doesn’t burn and gets Plaça de Sant Galdric, locally known as golden from all sides. the “Plaça de les Pageses” (the square 3. In the meantime, cut the bellpeppers in dices too, and of the lady farmers). A dozen farmer add to the frying pan. Mix well. families come every morning to set up 4. Now cut the zucchini in dices, add to the frying pan and their tables where they display their mix well. local produce: eggplant, red and green 5. Do the same with the onion. peppers, tomato, lettuce, cabbage, 6. In a blender, blend well the tomatoes, and pour the potatoes, onions, apples, oranges… liquid in the frying pan. whatever is in season. Their prices tend 7. Add salt and pepper to taste, and a bay leaf if you like. to be a bit cheaper, as they don’t have to 8. Mix well, so all the vegetables get coated with the cover the costs of renting a stand in La tomato sauce. Add some water if necessary. Boqueria. The downside is that they’re 9. Cover the frying pan and let simmer until all outdoors, therefore not protected from the veggies are well cooked. Keep checking and the rain and the sun. adding water if it gets too dry. It must have a saucy consistence. 10. Remove the bay leaf before serving. Don’t miss the sandwiches from the little but always crowded bar Papitu. You might even be lucky enough to It is great served warm as a side dish, or as a sauce on top of get a table in their coveted terrace. codfish, rice, beans or even pasta. I also like it over a toast. In the summertime, it’s very refreshing served cold. 32 The Right Hand Side of the Market

52. PUERTO LATINO 53. D. GUST 54. EL RACÓ DE LA TERE

The growing latino community has also Another finger-food and take away This grocery stand tends to specialize their own place to show in La Boqueria. place, where almost everything in mushrooms, although they still sell Here you’ll find products from South- is vegetarian suitable except for a fruits and vegetables. Less chic than America: Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, couple of pastries with foie or ham. Petràs, you’ll also find better deals here: Bolivia and Brazil. Spices and herbs like I prefer their puff pastries to their rovellons (milk caps), ceps, shiitake, cilantro and chili, deserts, imported fruits mini-calzones, which have too much rossinyols (chanterelle), múrgules and vegetables… Everything you need dough for the amount of filling, in my (morels), gírgoles (oyster mushrooms)… for your Latin recipes! opinion). Their croquettes are also very recommendable.

33 The Right Hand Side of the Market

55. CREPS BARCELONA MUSHROOM CROQUETTES http://www.crepsbarcelona.com/ Ingredients: And if you are still hungry, the French specialties are represented in this stall • One box of your favourite fresh mushrooms, thoroughly where they prepare delicious crepes washed and drained, then diced. with all kind of fillings: savory as well • A couple of onions as sweet. You’ll also find here authentic • 0.5 litter (about 2 cups) of milk Breton galettes made with organic • 100gr (about 1 cup) flour buckwheat flour. • Olive oil • Minced parsley and garlic to taste (optional) • Nutmeg • 2 eggs, whisked • Breadcrumbs

instructions:

1. Thinly mince the onion and gently fry in olive oil until it 56. CAL NEGUIT goldens. 2. Add the parsley and garlic and sauté for a minute or so (don’t So far there aren’t organic groceries in let it burn) La Boqueria yet. However, in Cal Neguit 3. Add your mushrooms and sauté until they have released all you’ll find locally produced vegetables their water and it has evaporated. and fruit from Integrated Production, a 4. Remove from the heat and divide in two parts. Spanish label for sustainable agriculture 5. Blend the milk, flour, salt and pepper and one of the that limits the use of chemicals and mushroom parts until creamy. supports traditional procedures when 6. Pour the mix back to the frying pan and keep heating until it possible, half way between Organic and thickens. 7. Add the other part of mushrooms and keep stirring until the Conventional agriculture. mix starts boiling and unstucking from the walls of the pan. 8. Remove from the heat and add a dash of nutmeg. 9. Pour on a deep plate and let it rest overnight until it’s totally cold and thick. 10. To shape the croquettes, roll 2 tablespoons of the mix, first over the whisked eggs, then over the breadcrumbs. Repeat until there is no mix left, and deep-fry in olive oil.

TIP: You can also substitute the onions by leeks. 33 34 The Right Hand Side of the Market

We have reached the end of this intensive walk around the Boqueria Market. I hope you enjoyed it and got your basket full of gorgeous products!

ESCALIVADA Ingredients: • 1 Eggplant • 1 large red bell pepper or 2 small ones • 1 or 2 onions • Olive oil

instructions: 1. Pre-heat the oven at high temperature. 2. Wash the eggplant and pepper thoroughly. 3. Wrap each vegetable on aluminum paper and put in the oven until totally cooked. 4. The best way to know if the vegetables are ready is to stick a skewer on them. If it’s still hard, it’s not ready yet. If it’s soft and easy to penetrate, it’s done. 5. Take into account that each vegetable will need different times to completely bake. 6. Put aside and let cool down. 7. When it’s cold, remove the skin of the vegetables (it should come out easily). 8. Cut the onion in segments, and divide the eggplant and pepper in long slices (it’ll be so soft that you can actually do it with your fingers). 9. Serve cold on a plate, sprinkled with olive oil as a side dish, or as a salad ingredient, or over a toast with anchovies on top. You can even use it as a pizza topping!

35 GLOSSARY

In this section you’ll find the basic vocabulary that you’ll need to identify products in the market, and you’ll be able to translate from English into Catalan and Spanish, and viceversa.

How To Use It INTO CATALAN INTO SPANISH Translating From English ! 1. Choose the word you want to translate from the English menu. 2. Follow the row until you find C (for Catalan translation) or S (for Spanish). CS means both translations are found in ! the same column. ! 3. Go up the C column to find the Catalan translation, or down the S column to find the Spanish word.

! ! !

! !

36 Glossary

How To Use It From CATALAN From SPANISH Translating Into English ! 1. Choose the word you want to translate from the Catalan or Spanish menu (you might not know what language it is, but since there aren’ t many words and they are presented in alphabetical order, it should be quick enough ! to find!). 2. Follow the row until you find C (for Catalan words) or S (for Spanish). CS means both translations are found in the same row. ! 3. Go left to find the English translation. ! !

! ! !

!

! !

37 Glossary

Fruit and berries

FRUIT & BERRIES

CATALAN NAMES: Pera Figa Kiwi Gerd Meló Coco Raïm Móra Pinya Poma Pruna Llima Caqui Nabiu Plàtan Cirera Papaia Aranja Mango Nespra Síndria d'arboç Préssec Taronja Codony Guaiaba Llimona Pitahaya Cireretes Cireretes Albercoc Xirimoia Maracuià Nectarina Maduixes Mandarina Maduixetes Grosella vermella Figa de moro Grosella negra Apricot C S Apple S C Banana C S Black currant S C Blackberry C S Blueberries S C Cherry S C Clementine C S Coconut C S Custard apple S C Dragon Fruit C S Fig C S Grape C S Grapefruit C S Guava S C Kiwi C S Lemon C S Lime C S Mango C S Melon C S Nectarine C S Nesplar C S Orange S C Papaya C S Passion Fruit C S Peach S C Pear C S Persimmon C S Pineapple C S Plum S C Prickly pear C S Quince C S Raspberry S C Red currant S C Strawberrytree fruit C S Strawberry S C Strawberry (wild) S C Watermelon C S

SPANISH NAMES: Uva Pera Piña Kiwi Higo Coco Lima Mora Melón Limón Sandía Cereza Mango Papaya Ciruela Plátano Pomelo Fresitas Níspero Naranja Pitahaya Guayaba Manzana Palosanto Nectarina Maracuyá Madroños Membrillo Albaricoque Melocotón Chirimoya Mandarina Frambuesa Higo chumbo Fresa / Fresón Grosella negra Arándanos Grosella roja

38 Glossary

Veggies and greens

GREENS & VEGETABLES

CATALAN NAMES: All Col Col Api Nap Ceba xerry Porro Bleda Patata Raves tendra Bolets Pebrot Pebrot Col de Trumfa Calçots Xicoira Enciam vermell Bròquil Endívia Alvocat Carxofa Moniato Escarola Espinacs Mongeta Carbassa Carbassó Col-i-flor Espàrrecs Tomàquet Tomàquet Tomàquet All tendre llombarda Escalunya Cogombre Albergínia Remolatxa Brussel·les Pebrot verd Ceba tendra Xampinyons Blat de moro Col arrissada Artichoke S C Asparagus S C Avocado S C Beetroot C S Broccoli C S Brussels sprout S Cabbage C S Catalan spring onion C S Cauliflower C S Celery C S Chard S C Cherry tomato C S Chicory S C Corn C S Cucumber C S Curly endive S C Eggplant C S Endive C S Garlic C S Green beans S C Green garlic C S Green onion S C Green pepers C S Kale C S Leek C S Lettuce C S Mushrooms C S Mushrooms S C Onion S C (Bell) Pepper C S Potato C S Pumpkin C S Purple cabbage C S Radish C S Red peppers S C Scallion S C Spinach S C Sweet potato S C Tomato C S Truffle C S Turnip C S Zucchini S C

SPANISH NAMES: Col Ajo Apio Maíz Setas Nabo Trufa Patata Puerro Pepino Acelga Tomate Calçots Bróquil Chalota Cebolla Endibia Boniato Coliflor Rábanos Escarola Chicoria Lechuga Pimiento Calabaza Aguacate Calabacín Espinacas Ajo tierno Berenjena Alcachofa Col rizada Pimento verde Espárragos Pimento rojo Judías verdes Champiñones Cebolla tierna Col de Bruselas Remolacha Tomate cherry Tomate Col lombarda

39 Glossary

Nuts and sweets

NUTS AND SWEETS

CATALAN NAMES: Dàtil Nous Torró Brasil Fruita Cacau Panses Piruleta Pinyons Caramel Nous del Ametlles Cacauets Pistatxos Xocolata confitada Anacards Bombons Orellanes Avellanes Castanyes Fruits secs Regalèssia Pruna seca Gominoles Macadàmia Almonds C S Brazil nuts S C Cacao C S Candied fruit C S Candy C S Cashew C S Chestnuts C S Chocolate (general) S C Chocolates C S Dates C S Dry peaches C S Hazelnuts C S Jelly beans S Licorice C S Lollypop C S Macadamia nuts C S Nougat C S Nuts C S Peanuts S C Pine nuts C S Pistachios C S Prunes S C Raisins C S Walnuts C S

SPANISH NAMES: Pasas Cacao Turrón Dátiles Nueces Regaliz Piruleta Piñones Castañas Orejones Pistachos Caramelo Anacardos Bombones Avellanas Almendras Chocolate Cacahuetes Macadamia Gominolas Coquitos del Brasil Frutos secos Fruta confitada Ciruelas pasas

40 Glossary

Meat and poultry

MEATMEAT && POULTRYPOULTRY

CATALAN NAMES: Ou Xai Cap Oca Bou Pota Porc Filet Emú Sang Garrí Ànec Tripa Fetge Cabra Conill Cabrit Estruç Llebre Ovella Cervell Gallina Guatlla Cangur Turmes Vedella Senglar Cargols Pollastre Ronyons Costelles Gall dindi Peus de porc Baby goat C S Baby sheep S C Beef C S Blood (coagulated) C S Boar S C Brain C S Bull testicles S C Chicken C S Chicken C S Duck C S Egg S C Emu C S Goat C S Goose C S Hare C S Head S C Kangaroo C S Kidney C S Leg S C Liver C S Ostrich S C Pig trotters S C Pork S C Quail S C Rabbit C S Ribs C S Sheep C S Sirloin C S Snails (escargots) C S Suckling pig S C Tripe (stomach) C S Turkey C S Veal C S

SPANISH NAMES: Oca Pata Pato Emú Pavo Buey Pollo Tripa cerdo Jabalí Oveja Cabra Cerdo Liebre Huevo Sangre Conejo Hígado Gallina Cabeza Cabrito Ternera Cerebro Cordero Riñones Canguro Costillas Avestruz Codorniz Criadillas Solomillo Caracoles Cochinillo Manitas de

41 Glossary

Cold cuts, ham and meat preparations

Cold Cuts,GREENSGREENS Ham and && VEGETABLESVEGETABLES meat preparations

CATALAN NAMES: país Fuet Llard Xoriço Salsitxa Embotit Botifarra Croqueta Frankfurt Pernil del Cansalada Pernil dolç Pernil salat Sobrassada Llonganissa Pernil Ibèric Mandonguilles Hamburguesa Bacon C S Chorizo S C Cold cuts C S Croquette C S Ham S C Hamburger C S Hotdog C S Lard C S Majorcan pork sausage C S Meat balls S C Salami (Catalan type) S C Salami (Spanish type) C S Sausage C S Sausage (Catalan type) C S Spanish ham (top) S C Spanish ham (low quality) S C Spanish ham (low quality) S C

SPANISH NAMES: país Fuet York Bacon Jamón Jamón Perrito ibérico serrano caliente Chorizo de cerdo Manteca Butifarra Croqueta Jamón de Salchicha Embutido Jamón del Sobrasada Albóndigas Hamburguesa Salchichón

42 Glossary

Fish

CATALAN NAMES: Rap Lluç Mero Carpa Truita Besuc Roger Salmó Turbot Rajada Dorada Bacallà Sardina Morena Anxova Anguila Tonyina Xanguet Boqueró Llobarro Palangre Sant Pere Arengada Escórpora Llenguado Peix Espasa Anchovy C S Anchovy (white) C S Carp C S Cod C S Eel C S Gilt-head C S Grouper C S Hake C S Hake (Longline-fished) C S Herring C S John Dory C S Monkfish C S Moray C S Red mullet C S Salmon C S Sardines C S Scorpion fish S C Sea bass C S Sea bream C S Sole C S Sting ray C S Swordfish C S Trout C S Tuna S C Turbot S C Whitebait S C

SPANISH FISH NAMES: Atún Rape Mero Carpa Trucha Lubina Dorada Besugo Salmón Morena Bacalao Anguila Merluza Pez raya Arenque Palangre Sardinas Anchoas Cabracho Boquerón Lenguado Sampedro Rodaballo Salmonete Chanquete Emperador

43 Glossary

Seafood and shells

CATALAN NAMES: Pop Sípia ostres Cranc Vieira Xipiró Cranca Gamba Garotes Llagostí Cloïsses Musclos Calamar Llagosta Navalles Percebes Llamàntol Escamarlà Escopinyes Bou de mar

Barnacles C S Clams S C Cockles S C Crab (general) C S Crab, type of C S Crab, type of C S Cuttlefish C S King prawn C S Lobster C S Lobster, type of S C Mussels C S Octopus C S Oysters C S Scampi C S Razor clams C S Scallops C S Sea urchins C S Squid C S Squid (small) S C Shrimp C S

SPANISH NAMES: Buey Sepia Pulpo Ostras Erizos Cigala Vieiras Gamba Almeja Navajas Calamar Centollo Percebes Chipirón Cangrejo Langosta Mejillones Bogavante Langostino Berberecho

44 Glossary

Cheese and dairy

CHEESE AND DAIRY

CATALAN NAMES: Llet blau vaca Nata fresc curat Mató Gelat cabra Iogurt d'ovella Mantega Cuallada Manxego Formatge Formatge Formatge Formatge Formatge desnatada Margarina pasteuritzat Llet sencera Formatge de Formatge de Formatge sec Formatge cru Blue cheese C S Butter S C Cottage cheese C S Cow cheese C S Curd C S Cured cheese C S Dry cheese C S Goat cheese C S Green cheese C S Ice cream / Gelato S C Manchego cheese S C Margarine S C Milk (whole) S C Pasteurized cheese C S Sheep cheese C S Skimmed milk S C Unpasteurized cheese C S Whipped cream S C Yogurt C S

SPANISH FISH NAMES: vaca Nata cabra oveja Leche Leche Yogur Queso Helado (entera) Cuajada Queso de Queso de Queso de Requesón desnatada Margarina Manchego Queso azul Queso seco Mantequilla pasteurizado Queso crudo Queso fresco Queso curado

45 Glossary

Beans and similar

BEANS AND SIMILAR

CATALAN NAMES: Soja cuites Faves Pèsols blanca seques Cigrons Llenties Llegums Llegums Mongeta Arròs blanc Arròs integral Broad beans C S Chickpeas S C Cooked beans C S Dry beans C S Green peas S C Lentils S C Rice (white) C S Rice (whole-grain) C S Soy C S White beans S C

SPANISH FISH NAMES: Soja secas Arroz Habas cocidas (blanco) Lentejas Guisantes Garbanzos Legumbres Legumbres Judía blanca Arroz integral

46 Glossary

Spices, herbs and seasonings

SPICES, HERBS AND SEASONINGS

CATALAN NAMES: Oli Sal dolç Anís Safrà Bitxo Comí picant Llorer Nyora Sàlvia Menta Allioli Olives Cebollí Orenga vinagre Julivert Vainilla Romaní Tàperes Farigola Canyella Gingebre Mostassa maionesa Alfàbrega Pebre rosa Pebre blanc Pebre negre Nou moscada Pebre vermell Pebre vermell Aioli C S Aniseed C S Basil C S Bay leaf C S Black pepper C S Capers S C Catalan dry pepper C S Chili C S Chive C S Cinnamon C S Cumin C S Ginger C S Hot red pepper S C Mayonnaise C S Mint C S Mustard C S Nutmeg C S Oil S C Olives S C Oregano C S Paprika S C Parsley C S Pink pepper C S Rosemary C S Saffron S C Sage C S Salt C S Thyme C S Vanilla C S Vinegar C S White pepper C S

SPANISH NAMES: Sal rosa Anís Ñora Nuez dulce negra Alioli Salvia Laurel Aceite Menta Perejil blanca Canela picante Vinagre Tomillo Vainilla Comino Azafrán Romero Jengibre Mostaza Orégano moscada Pimienta Pimienta Pimienta Guindilla Albahaca Pimentón Pimentón Cebollino Aceitunas Mayonesa Alcaparras

47 MARKET RECIPE INDEX

Recipe page

CODFISH FRITTERS 10

CALAMARI RINGS 12

Catalan-style chicken 16

SPANISH OMELETTE 20

ROMESCO SAUCE 22

CHICKPEAS WITH SPINACH 25

CATALAN CREAM 29

SAMFAINA 32

MUSHROOM CROQUETTES 34

ESCALIVADA 35

48 The Boqueria Market is the biggest gourmet tresure in Barcelona, however there are still many other hidden gems that would delight any food lover. Let me unveil them for you!

If you are interested in my foody tours, check out my website at Foreverbarcelona.com.

I organize gourmet shop itineraries, tapas tours and daytrips to the wine country.

You can contact me at [email protected].

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