CATALONIA Where the wine is as fiercely independent as its people.

BY MICHAEL SCHACHNER

ast fall, four out of five Catalan voters cast ballots to secede called Cariñena or Samsó) among red grapes, and Garnacha Blanca and from Spain. While it may have rattled politicians in Madrid, Xarel-lo among white grapes. it was a just straw poll, not an official referendum on inde- There is also Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Lpendence. The Catalonian provinces of Barcelona, Tarragona, Trepat planted throughout Catalonia, as well as the white varieties Lleida and Girona remain, at least for now, part of Spain. Parellada and Macabeo (Viura in Rioja), which are primarily used for But in the same way that Catalans have a culture that differs great- the production of Cava, Spain’s premier sparkling wine. ly from their Castilian, Galician or Andalusian countrymen, Catalonian Catalonian wines tend to be full-bodied and high in alcohol, due to wines have little in common with those from the rest of Spain. the grape varieties and the region’s warm weather conditions. But Cata- Catalonia’s 10 denominated wine regions focus mostly on so-called lonia’s best wines also feature intense minerality derived from vineyards Mediterranean grape varieties, primarily Garnacha and Carignan (also planted on granite, chalk and especially, fractured slate soils.

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Priorat Clos Mogador 2012. This Garnacha- and 95 Carignan-led blend from the village of A quarter-century ago, the Priorat, locat- Gratallops is highly aromatic and focused in the mouth, with strong tannins. Flavors of buttery ed about 90 miles southwest of Barcelona oak, schist, blackberry and cassis culminate with in Tarragona province, was a collection of mocha, vanilla and a sense of greatness. Best from ­dilapidated Roman terraces that had seen 2017–2025. Europvin USA. Editors’ Choice. centuries of neglect. abv: 15.5% Price: $90 In 1989, however, a group of pioneering Mas d’en Gil 2009 Clos Fontà. Cedar, ma- winemakers that included René Barbier, Al- 94 ple, blackberry and schist aromas precede varo Palacios, Daphne Glorian, Carles Pastra- a tannic, firm, but not overpowering palate, with na and Josep Lluis Pérez—all still active in flavors of blackberry, cassis, fig and vanilla. This the region—joined to produce a single high- Garnacha-Carignan blend will be best from 2017– 2024. Classical Wines. Editors’ Choice. quality wine from grapes harvested near the abv: 15% Price: $98 town of Gratallops. Today, you can no longer count the re- Vall Llach 2012 Porrera Vi de Vila. Mildly gion’s vineyards and wineries on your fingers, 93 raisiny on the nose, this smells of boy- thanks to the 5,000-plus acres of vineyards senberry and crème de cassis. Chewy, tannic and heavy in its youth, this Carignan-based of- now spread throughout this rugged, hilly fering from vineyards near the town of Porrera ­region. To say the Priorat has boomed is an yields blackberry, cassis and prune flavors, with understatement. There’s more wine com- a toasty, chocolaty, oak-heavy finish. Best from ing from one of Spain’s most blessed terroirs 2016–2021. Folio Fine Wine Partners. than ever before. abv: 15.5% Price: $65 What makes the Priorat unique from the Genium Celler 2009 Costers Vi de Guarda. rest of Spain and much of the world is that its 92 This is a Carignan-led big boy that’s lay- century-old vineyards, meticulously reclaimed ered and heady, with fiery aromas of cinnamon, by the aforementioned “Gang of Five” and oth- baking spices, schist and red-berry fruits that include licorice. Deep, dark plum and berry fla- ers, are planted with 360 degrees of exposure. vors are long on the finish, with notes of leather Some portions of the Priorat are influ- and wild herbs. Best from 2017–2025. Grapes of enced entirely by the nearby Mediterranean Spain. Cellar Selection. Sea, with humidity and warm nights fac- abv: 15.5% Price: $70 toring into the overall terroir. Other micro- Scala Dei 2010 Cartoixa. This is ripe and a zones pick up drier continental influences, 91 bit oaky and creamy up front, with schisty and thus are cooler in the spring and fall, but berry scents. It’s controlled on the palate, with warmer during the summer. cherry, currant, plum, coconut and marzipan The Priorat is one of Spain’s hilliest re- flavors. An oaky, rooty finish comes with a deep gions, with vineyard elevations ranging from berry aftertaste. Drink this Garnacha-led wine through 2021. Aveniù Brands, Inc. several hundred feet above sea level to over abv: 15% Price: $100 2,000 feet. Winemakers can opt to make tra- ditionally powerful wines from lower costers Alvaro Palacios 2012 Les Terrasses. Cher- (hillsides planted with bush vines), or exper- 90 ry, cassis and plum aromas are forward and aggressive. In the mouth, this blend of old- iment with lighter, potentially more elegant vines Garnacha, Carignan and Cabernet Sauvi- raw materials taken from cooler vineyards at gnon shows generous fruit supported by strong higher elevations. tannins. Minerally flavors of plum and berry fin- Regardless of exposure or elevation, ish long. Drink through 2017. Rare Wine Co. there’s an overriding character to Priorat abv: 14.5% Price: $40 wines, which are largely based on old-vines Garnacha, Carignan and small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. These are predominantly big, dark, pow- potent core of minerality. the past couple of decades, the region’s mi- impressive bodega like that of Alvaro Pala- when you come across a great Priorat blend, ­Rofes, winemaker at Scala Dei, Priorat’s orig- erful wines with minerally depth derived In general, Priorat wines are some of serly old vines produce the best wines, but in cios or Ferrer Bobet, there’s someone making the combination of complexity, depth, power, inal monastic winery, with roots that go back from the region’s decomposed slate soils, Spain’s most expensive offerings. This re- equally miserly quantities. several hundred cases of wine out of a former fine oak, minerality and overall balance can to the 12th century. “You should be able to known as llicorella. Alcohol levels usual- flects Priorat’s rise in reputation and popu- A visit to the Priorat reveals a region grain mill, municipal building or monastery. knock you out. drink a good wine when it’s young, but the ly exceed 15% abv, with flavors revolving larity, but also the high cost in farming steep caught between rural traditions and the 21st Some of these arriviste wines are over- “Priorat wines are powerful, but they can wines do evolve and age well for about seven­ around ripe black fruits, oak framing and a hillsides. Despite increased plantings over century. For every modern, architecturally ripe, out of shape and ponderous. However, also be elegant and complex,” says ­Ricard to 12 years.”

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Montsant Terra Alta

Montsant is like a mini Priorat, As its name implies, this is the wrapping around the region like a highest winemaking region in Cat- horseshoe, with similar elevations alonia, with elevations up to 3,000 and similarly composed soils. feet. It’s also the denominación de Formerly known as the Falset origen (D.O.) that’s furthest inland, subzone of the mostly undistin- where schist and llicorella give way guished Tarragona wine region, to chalk-based soils. Montsant became its own denom- In Terra Alta, red grapes are ination in 2001. Like Priorat and mostly Garnacha, Carignan, Syr- the lesser-known, more south- ah and small amounts of Cabernet erly Terra Alta region, Montsant Sauvignon, Merlot and Morenillo, a is largely a Mediterranean-influ- grape that’s akin to Pinot Noir, but enced region with a familiar ros- is nearly extinct and doesn’t exist ter of grapes: Garnacha, Carignan, outside of the region. Syrah and Garnacha Blanca. These are mostly full-bodied red “Montsant is special, and be- wines with freshness fostered by cause it’s not as known as the Pri- elevation. Because the region is just orat, the wines are well priced for now emerging, pricing is attractive. the quality,” says André Tamers, For example, Celler Piñol, an or- founder of De Maison Selections, ganic winery in the village of Batea, the importer for one of Mont- makes several excellent wines that sant’s top wineries, Cellers Joan sell for less than $50. Sa Natura, d’Anguera. its Carignan-led blend, boasts the Montsant wines straddle the highest quality-to-price ratio of any fence between power and preci- wine in this tasting. sion. Because the reds are usually The highest-scoring Garnacha based on Garnacha, Carignan and Blanca was also a Celler Piñol, the Syrah, expect ripeness and high 2011 L’Avi Arrufi, one of the most alcohol levels. But grown at eleva- complex and vital of the variety tions close to 2,000 feet in high- tasted to date. Made from 50- to mineral, schist-based soils like 80-year-old vines and aged eight those in Priorat, Montsant wines months in French oak, it’s the type can be alluring, refined, mineral- of wine that fans of white Burgundy ly and should rank high on one’s would be wise to try. Catalonian wish list. “I am continually impressed by “Like many places in Spain and the quality of wines being produced throughout the world, Montsant in Terra Alta,” says Brett Matthew, is evolving,” says Tamers. “I began sommelier and beverage direc- working with the Anguera family tor with Terra Momo Restaurant more than 15 years ago, after Josep Group in Princeton, New Jersey, d’Anguera had introduced Syrah who crafts wine lists deep in Span- to the region. ish selections at his Mediterranean “But when he passed away Can Blau 2011 Mas de Can Joan d’Anguera 2012 Finca Portal del Montsant 2010 restaurants. “It’s a place that looks Celler Piñol 2011 Sa Natura. Celler Piñol 2011 L’Avi Arrufi. Edetària 2012 Via Edetana. 92 Blau. Charred on the nose, 90 L’Argatà. Schisty cherry, 90 Santbru. This white wine 92 Aromas of coffee, black 91 Quality Catalonian Garna- 90 Generous berry aromas about 10 years ago and his sons this blend of Garnacha, Carignan raspberry and strawberry aromas opens with aromas of beeswax and similar to my home state of Colora- pepper and herbs get this five- cha Blanca is distinct, and this smell almost floral. This wine feels took over, they were enamored and Syrah is loaded with black- are subtle and floral. This blend lanolin that are textbook Garnacha do. Also, the viticultural history of grape blend off to a fine start. A is waxy and mature on the nose, soft in the middle, but stout along with making the big, heavy, ex- berry, licorice and hickory aromas. of Garnacha and Syrah is quite Blanca. This also feels waxy. Nutty, the area is amazing when you con- flush palate does nothing to set it with scents of peach pit and apri- the edges. Blackberry, plum and tracted wines that were popular at Lush, ripe and strong as an ox, with fresh, with flavors of minerally oaky, toasted flavors suggest peach sider that winemaking predates Ro- back, while flavors of ripe black- cot. This feels full and peachy, but cassis flavors finish with hard tan- the time. But now, they have dis- oaky flavors of vanilla and coconut plum and currant supported by oak and papaya, while the finish is long man occupation. berry, meaty plum and savory spic- also brightly acidic. Papaya and nins and a sense of extraction. Get that settle on chocolate and black- and vanilla. The finish is racy and and complex. Drink now. CIV/USA. es finish with notes of leather and stone-fruit flavors finish pulpy and on board for a full, chunky, satisfy- covered the righteous way of ele- berry. The finish echoes with lico- peppery. Drink through 2018. De abv: 14% Price: $43 “Terra Alta has a bright future, licorice. Drink through 2020. Olé balanced. Drink through 2017. Olé ing Garnacha-based ride. T. Edward gance, and I think the wines have rice and vanilla as well as chewy Maison Selections. both in the general wine industry Imports. Editors’ Choice. Imports. Editors’ Choice. Wines Ltd. never been better.” tannins. Drink through 2021. Gil abv: 14.5% Price: $31 and with wine geeks like me who abv: 14% Price: $24 abv: 14.5% Price: $49 abv: 14.5% Price: $20 The same could be said for Family Estates. enjoy quality wines from obscure Montsant as a whole. abv: 15.5% Price: $45 places.”

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Torres 2010 Mas La Plana 40th Vintage Penedès, Costers del 93 (Penedès). Spain’s preeminent Cabernet Sauvignon is excellent in its 40th edition. Aromas of rooty spice, licorice, tar, herbs, cassis and prune Segre & Conca de Barberà are complex, while this single-vineyard wine is tight at its core. Flavors of currant, toast, vanilla, The vinous pride of Barcelona province is pepper and stewed meat finish with firm acidity, the Penedès, home to the lion’s share of but also creamy weight. Best from 2017–2030. Spain’s Cava industry as well as a handful of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 notable still-wine producers. Further inland from Penedès, on the bor- Clos Pons 2010 Roc Nu (Costers del Segre). der where Tarragona province touches up 91 This blend of Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvi- against Lleida province, is the Conca de Bar- gnon and Tempranillo opens with leathery, earthy aromas that suggest coffee grinds, black olive and berà D.O. Here, red wines made from Spain’s stalky berry fruits. In the mouth, there’s a layered signature grape, Tempranillo (locally called feel and spicy flavors of baked berry fruits and Ull de Llebre), are often blended with Cab- black cherry. Drink through 2022. RMB Imports. ernet Sauvignon. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 And hidden away within the interior Mas Blanch I Jové 2011 Petit Saó (Costers del Catalonian confines of Lleida province is 91 Segre). Cherry, currant and mineral aromas the Costers del Segre region. Also a Caber- are fresh and appealing. This blend of Tempra- net hotbed, the local Trepat grape enters the nillo, Garnacha and Cabernet Sauvignon is lithe fray to add lightness, acidity and floral qual- on the palate, while toasty, minerally berry and ities to heavier multigrape blends primar- cherry flavors finish with notes of licorice, cocoa and herbs. Drink through 2019. Aviva Vino. ily based on Tempranillo and/or Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $18 ­Sauvignon. Together, this trio of largely unsung Mas Foraster 2011 Josep Foraster Criança ­regions exemplifies what Catalonia does well 90 (Conca de Barberà). Minerally power pushes the bouquet on this Cabernet Sauvignon- when not concentrating entirely on Garna- led blend that includes briary berry and spice cha and Carignan. aromas. Chewy, round and full in the mouth, this The Penedès, whose border begins about delivers foresty berry flavors, herbal notes, mush- 40 miles southwest of Barcelona, is one of room hints and peppery spice on the finish. Drink Spain’s highest yielding regions, thanks to through 2018. T. Edward Wines Ltd. abv: 14% Price: $17 the huge volume of white grapes needed for Cava. One can find the occasional good Marqués de Gelida 2013 Old Vines Xarel-lo Xarel-lo here, as well as a few white blends 89 (Penedès). Wild flower and melon aromas that are fresh and pleasant, for instance, are light and easy. This organic white varietal feels Marqués de Gelida’s value-priced 2013 stony and citric, while flavors of lime, orange and mango finish with freshness and modest weight. ­organic Xarel-lo. Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. If you’re seeking a serious Penedès wine, abv: 12.5% Price: $12 though, the award-winning Torres Mas La Plana is a signature single-vineyard Cab- Parés Baltà 2011 Hisenda Miret Microcuvée Garnatxa (Penedès). Floral cherry and ernet Sauvignon produced in the heart of 89 plum aromas turn more rubbery and raisiny as Cava country. The 2010 vintage—the 40th this airs out. Lifted and deep on the palate, this bottling—is one of the best the winery has deals lightly herbal flavors of plum and cherry produced. cough drop, while the finish is oaky and resiny. “Throughout Europe, but for sure in Drink through 2020. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Spain, 2010 was an outstanding vintage,” Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 says Miguel Torres Maczassek, CEO of the Torres Group. “We are certain this is one of the very best Mas La Planas ever bottled. “People don’t think of the Penedès as a source for great table wines, and that’s Lesser known than the Penedès are a smaller bodega like Mas Blanch I Jové for the wine industry here has only one direc- ­importer T. Edward Wines, believes could one like Josep Foraster, it has the potential mostly because it’s so closely associated Costers del Segre and Conca de Barberà. high-quality wine at a fair price. tion to go: up. produce wines on par with the top Gamays to be the Spanish version of Cru Beaujolais. with Cava. But Mas La Plana is something Costers del Segre holds less than a dozen Nearby Conca de Barberà is similar—with One of the vehicles that may earn Conca of France. Foraster’s production comes from the old- we take great pride in. My father [Miguel A. wineries, the largest of which is the mam- roughly 20 wineries, it’s still flying under de Barberà more notoriety is Trepat, a grape “Conca de Barberà has 1,000 hectares est Trepat vineyard in the region; it’s only Torres] always believed that this could be an moth Raimat. But sip a blend of Cabernet most people’s radars. But, much like Priorat that Jorge Pérez, head of Spanish and South of the world’s 1,100 hectares of Trepat,” he three hectares [less than eight acres], but icon wine.” Sauvignon, Tempranillo and Garnacha from 25 years ago or Terra Alta 25 months ago, American imports for New York-based says. “In the right hands, for example, some- it’s more than 50 years old.”

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