Northern California, Oregon, and the Sandwich Islands by Charles Nordhoff</H1>
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Northern California, Oregon, and the Sandwich Islands by Charles Nordhoff Northern California, Oregon, and the Sandwich Islands by Charles Nordhoff Produced by Ronald Holder and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team. [Transcriber's Notes: The following words are noted as having changed between the publication of this book and the year 2004: 'Nuuanu Valley', versus 'Nuanu'; 'lei', vs. 'le' for a flower garland; 'holoku' vs. 'holaku' for a Hawaiian black dress; 'Wailua', vs. 'Waialua'; 'Kealakekua Bay' vs. 'Kealakeakua'; 'Kahului' vs. 'Kaului'; 'kuleana' vs. 'kuliana' for a small land-holding; 'kulolo' vs. 'kuulaau' for a taro pudding; 'piele' vs. 'paalolo' for a sweet-potato and coconut pudding; 'Koa' trees vs. 'Ko'; 'Sausalito' vs. 'Soucelito'; 'Klickitat', vs. 'Klikatat'; and 'Mount Rainier' vs. 'Mount Regnier'. Also, in chapter 1, the author mis-stated information on taro fields; it should say that a square forty feet on each side will support a person for a year; this is equivalent to a square mile feeding 15,000. An explanation of footnotes in the Appendix: The book has both footnotes at the bottom of each page, to which I assigned letters, and four pages page 1 / 393 of notes at the end of the Appendix. The latter includes comments by the translator in brackets, therefore these notes, which use numbers, will not be enclosed in the normal [Footnote: ] brackets to avoid any confusion. The lettered footnotes follow the numbered notes at the end.] [Illustration: THE HAWAIIAN ARCHIPELAGO.] NORTHERN CALIFORNIA, OREGON, AND THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. BY CHARLES NORDHOFF, AUTHOR OF "CALIFORNIA: FOR HEALTH, PLEASURE, AND RESIDENCE," &c., &c. NEW YORK: page 2 / 393 HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE. 1875. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, by HARPER & BROTHERS, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. TO MY FRIENDS, MR. AND MRS. HENRY A. DIKE, OF BROOKLYN, N.Y. PREFACE. The favor with which my previous volume on California was received by the page 3 / 393 public induced me to prepare the present volume, which concerns itself, as the title sufficiently shows, with the northern parts of California, Oregon (including a journey through Washington Territory to Victoria, in Vancouver's Island), and the Sandwich Islands. I have endeavored, as before, to give plain and circumstantial details, such as would interest and be of use to travelers for pleasure or information, and enable the reader to judge of the climate, scenery, and natural resources of the regions I visited; to give, in short, such information as I myself would like to have had in my possession before I made the journey. Since this book went to press, Lunalilo, the King of the Sandwich Islands, has died of rapid consumption; and his successor is the Hon. David Kalakaua, a native chief, who has been prominent in the political affairs of the Islands, and was the rival of the late king after the death of Kamehameha V. Colonel Kalakaua is a man of education, of better physical stamina than the late king, of good habits, vigorous will, and a strong determination to maintain the independence of the Islands, in which he is supported by the people, who are of like mind with him on this point. His portrait is given on the next leaf. [Illustration: KING KALAKAUA.] CONTENTS. page 4 / 393 CHAPTER I. HONOLULU AND THE ISLAND OF OAHU CHAPTER II. HILO, WITH SOME VOLCANOES CHAPTER III. MAUI, AND THE SUGAR CULTURE CHAPTER IV. KAUAI, WITH A GLANCE AT CATTLE AND SHEEP CHAPTER V. THE HAWAIIAN AT HOME: MANNERS AND CUSTOMS CHAPTER VI. page 5 / 393 COMMERCIAL AND POLITICAL CHAPTER VII. THE LEPER ASYLUM ON MOLOKAI * * * * * NORTHERN CALIFORNIA: ITS AGRICULTURAL VALLEYS, DAIRIES, FORESTS, FRUIT-FARMS, ETC. CHAPTER I. THE SACRAMENTO VALLEY: A GENERAL VIEW, WITH HINTS TO TOURISTS AND SPORTSMEN CHAPTER II. WINE AND RAISINS--PROFITS OF DRYING FRUITS CHAPTER III. page 6 / 393 THE TULE LANDS AND LAND DRAINAGE CHAPTER IV. SHEEP-GRAZING IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA CHAPTER V. THE CHINESE AS LABORERS AND PRODUCERS CHAPTER VI. THE MENDOCINO COAST AND CLEAR LAKE--GENERAL VIEW CHAPTER VII. AN INDIAN RESERVATION CHAPTER VIII. THE REDWOODS AND THE SAW-MILL COUNTRY OF MENDOCINO page 7 / 393 CHAPTER IX. DAIRY-FARMING IN CALIFORNIA CHAPTER X. TEHAMA AND BUTTE, AND THE UPPER COUNTRY CHAPTER XI. TOBACCO CULTURE--WITH A NEW METHOD OR CURING THE LEAF CHAPTER XII. THE FARALLON ISLANDS CHAPTER XIII. THE COLUMBIA RIVER AND PUGET SOUND--HINTS TO TOURISTS * * * * * page 8 / 393 APPENDIX. CONTRIBUTIONS OF A VENERABLE SAVAGE TO THE ANCIENT HISTORY OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS NOTES ILLUSTRATIONS. MAP OF THE HAWAIIAN ARCHIPELAGO KING KALAKAUA DIAMOND HEAD AND WAIKIKI HONOLULU--GENERAL VIEW HAWAIIAN HOTEL, HONOLULU GOVERNMENT BUILDINGS, HONOLULU page 9 / 393 ROYAL SCHOOL, HONOLULU COURT-HOUSE, HONOLULU MRS. LUCY G. THURSTON KAWAIAHO CHURCH--FIRST NATIVE CHURCH IN HONOLULU DR. JUDD DR. COAN BETHEL CHURCH DR. DAMON QUEEN'S HOSPITAL, HONOLULU NATIVE SCHOOL-HOUSE IN HONOLULU COCOA-NUT GROVE, AND RESIDENCE OF THE LATE KING KAMEHAMEHA V., AT WAIKIKI, OAHU page 10 / 393 HAWAIIAN POI DEALER THE PALACE, HONOLULU EMMA, QUEEN OF KAMEHAMEHA IV. A HAWAIIAN CHIEF THE CRATER OF KILAUEA--ONE PHASE KEALAKEAKUA BAY, WHERE CAPTAIN COOK WAS KILLED THE VOLCANO HOUSE HAWAIIAN TEMPLE, FROM A RUSSIAN ENGRAVING, ABOUT 1790 LAVA FIELD, HAWAII--FLOW OF 1868 VIEW OF THE CRATER OF SOUTH LAKE IN A STATE OF ERUPTION, FROM THE CREST OF THE NORTH LAKE HILO page 11 / 393 SURF BATHING LAHAINA, ISLAND OF MAUI CASCADE AND RIVER OF LAVA--FLOW OF 1869 MAP OF THE HALEAKALA CRATER WAILUKU, ISLAND OF MAUI KEAPAWEO MOUNTAIN, KAUAI CHAIN OF EXTINCT VOLCANOES NEAR KOLOA, ISLAND OF KAUAI WAIALUA FALLS, ISLAND OF KAUAI IMPLEMENTS GRASS HOUSE HAWAIIAN WARRIORS page 12 / 393 LUNALILO KAMEHAMEHA I. QUEEN OF KAMEHAMEHA I. ANCIENT GODS OF HAWAII HAWAIIANS EATING POI NATIVE HAT PEDDLER HULA-HULA, OR DANCING-GIRLS HAWAIIAN STYLE OF DRESS NATIVE PIPE NECKLACE OF HUMAN HAIR MAP OF NORTHERN CALIFORNIA page 13 / 393 A CALIFORNIA VINEYARD WINE VATS TRAINING A VINE A BOTTLING-CELLAR INDIAN RANCHERIA PIEDRAS BLANCAS POINT ARENA LIGHT-HOUSE SHIPPING LUMBER, MENDOCINO COUNTY A WATER-JAM OF LOGS MOUNT HOOD, OREGON COAST VIEW, MENDOCINO COUNTY page 14 / 393 INDIAN SWEAT-HOUSE ANOTHER COAST-VIEW, NORTHERN CALIFORNIA A SAW-MILL PORT ON PUGET SOUND CAPE HORN, COLUMBIA RIVER SAW-MILL WOOD-CHOPPER AT WORK MOUNT HOOD, OREGON INDIANS SPEARING SALMON, COLUMBIA RIVER CHINOOK WOMAN AND CHILD VIEW ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER LUMBERING IN WASHINGTON TERRITORY--PREPARING LOGS page 15 / 393 VICTORIA HARBOR, VANCOUVER'S ISLAND PORT TOWNSEND, WASHINGTON TERRITORY POINT REYES COLUMBIA RIVER SCENE STREET IN OLYMPIA, WASHINGTON TERRITORY "TACOMA," OR MOUNT RAINIER INDIAN CRADLE, WASHINGTON TERRITORY RUNNING THE ROOKERIES--GATHERING MURRE EGGS LIGHT-HOUSE ON THE SOUTH FARALLON ARCH AT WEST END, FARALLON ISLANDS SEA-LIONS page 16 / 393 THE GULL'S NEST SHAGS, MURRES, AND SEA-GULLS CONTEST FOR THE EGGS THE GREAT ROOKERY INDIAN GIRLS AND CANOE, PUGET SOUND SALEM, CAPITAL OF OREGON SEATTLE, WASHINGTON TERRITORY VICTORIA, BRITISH COLUMBIA MAP OF PUGET SOUND AND VICINITY THE DUKE OF YORK QUEEN VICTORIA page 17 / 393 NANAIMO, VANCOUVER'S ISLAND ANCIENT HAWAIIAN IDOL THE TARO PLANT [Illustration: DIAMOND HEAD AND WAIKIKI.] NORTHERN CALIFORNIA, OREGON, AND THE SANDWICH ISLANDS. * * * * * CHAPTER I. HONOLULU AND THE ISLAND OF OAHU. The Hawaiian group consists, as you will see on the map, of eleven page 18 / 393 islands, of which Hawaii is the largest and Molokini the smallest. The islands together contain about 6000 square miles; and Hawaii alone has an area of nearly 4000 square miles, Maui 620, Oahu (which contains Honolulu, the capital) 530, and Kauai 500. Lanai, Kahoolawe, Molokai, Niihau, Kaula, Lehua, and Molokini are small islands. All are of volcanic origin, mountainous, and Hawaii contains the largest active crater in the world--Kilauea--one of the craters of Mauna Loa; while Maui contains the largest known extinct crater, Haleakala, the House of the Sun--a pit thirty miles in circumference and two thousand feet deep. Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea are nearly 14,000 feet high, as high as Mount Grey in Colorado; and you can not ride anywhere in the islands without seeing extinct craters, of which the hill called Diamond Head, near Honolulu, is an example. [Illustration: HONOLULU--GENERAL VIEW.] The voyage from San Francisco to Honolulu is now very comfortably made in one of the Pacific Mail Company's steamers, which plies regularly between the two ports, and makes a round trip once in every month. The voyage down to the Islands lasts from eight to nine days, and even to persons subject to sea-sickness is likely to be an enjoyable sea-journey, because after the second day the weather is charmingly warm, the breezes usually mild, and the skies sunny and clear. In forty-eight hours after you leave the Golden Gate, shawls, overcoats, and wraps are discarded. You put on thinner clothing. After breakfast you will like to spread rugs on deck and lie in the sun, fanned by deliciously soft winds; and before you see Honolulu you will, even in winter, like to have an awning spread over you page 19 / 393 to keep off the sun. When they seek a tropical climate, our brethren on the Pacific coast have to endure no such rough voyage as that across the Atlantic. On the way you see flying-fish, and if you are lucky an occasional whale or a school of porpoises, but no ships. It is one of the loneliest of ocean tracks, for sailing-vessels usually steer farther north to catch stronger gales. But you sail over the lovely blue of the Pacific Ocean, which has not only softer gales but even a different shade of color than the fierce Atlantic.