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Home , Cambrian Way, Colwyn Castle, Dinas Mawddwy, Glyntawe, Llanwrtyd, Maentwrog

THE

About the Authors CLASSIC MOUNTAIN TREK George Tod is a semi-retired IT support engineer and has long held a passion for long-distance mountain walking, starting with the in 1991. SOUTH TO NORTH FROM TO He has completed the Cambrian Way four times, the first in 2000. In 2005, at the request of who brought the route to fruition, he set up the by George Tod with Richard Tyler Cambrian Way website and has continually updated and revised both this and Tony Drake’s original guidebook, Cambrian Way: The Mountain Connoisseur’s Walk. His major contribution to this guide has been the compilation of the route descriptions and mapping. Richard Tyler is a retired solicitor who has enjoyed a lifetime of walking in the Welsh mountains. He has considerable experience of long-distance hill and mountain walking in the UK, the Alps and the Himalaya. Richard carried out a full walk and survey of the Cambrian Way, finishing in 2016. He is chair of the Cambrian Way Trust, footpath secretary for Ramblers Area and, at the time of publication, chair of Powys Local Access Forum.

JUNIPER HOUSE, MURLEY MOSS, OXENHOLME ROAD, KENDAL, LA9 7RL www.cicerone.co.uk © The Cambrian Way Trust 2019 CONTENTS First edition 2019 ISBN: 978 1 85284 990 0 Map key...... 8 Overview map...... 10–11 Printed in China on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd Route summary table...... 12–13 A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Trek planner...... 14–17 All photographs are by the authors unless otherwise stated. Geology section and map by Alan Bowring and Dilys Harlow. INTRODUCTION ...... 19 The mountain connoisseurs’ walk...... 19 © Crown copyright 2019 OS PU100012932 Wales, its history, people and language...... 21 Geology and landscape...... 23 Plants and animals...... 27 When to go ...... 29 Travel...... 30 Updates to this Guide Accommodation...... 31 While every effort is made by our authors to ensure the accuracy of guidebooks as Kit ...... 32 they go to print, changes can occur during the lifetime of an edition. Any updates Waymarking and navigation...... 33 that we know of for this guide will be on the Cicerone website (www.cicerone. Food, water and supplies...... 34 co.uk/990/updates), so please check before planning your trip. We also advise Emergencies...... 35 that you check information about such things as transport, accommodation and Using this guide...... 35 shops locally. Even rights of way can be altered over time. We are always grate- ful for information about any discrepancies between a guidebook and the facts THE ROUTE on the ground, sent by email to [email protected] or by post to Cicerone, Stage 1 Cardiff to Machen...... 38 Juniper House, Murley Moss, Oxenholme Road, Kendal, LA9 7RL. Stage 2 Machen to ...... 48 Register your book: To sign up to receive free updates, special offers and Stage 3 Pontypool to ...... 56 GPX files where available, register your book at www.cicerone.co.uk. Stage 4 Abergavenny to Capel-y-ffin...... 64 Stage 5 Capel-y-ffin to ...... 71 Stage 6 Crickhowell to Storey Arms ...... 79 Stage 7 Storey Arms to Glyntawe ...... 95 Stage 8 Glyntawe to ...... 105 Stage 9 Llandovery to Tŷ’n-y-cornel Hostel...... 115 Stage 10 Tŷ’n-y-cornel Hostel to Claerddu...... 124 Stage 11 Claerddu to Ponterwyd...... 133 Stage 12 Ponterwyd to ...... 141 Stage 13 Dylife to Dinas ...... 149 Stage 14 to Llyn Bach...... 163 Stage 15 Bwlch Llyn Bach to ...... 171 Stage 16 Barmouth to Cwm Bychan...... 180 Stage 16/17A Bad-weather route to Moelfryn following Taith Ardudwy Way . .191 Stage 17 Cwm Bychan to ...... 196 Stage 18 Maentwrog to ...... 205 Stage 19 Beddgelert to Pen-y-Pass...... 217 Front cover: The dramatic outcrop of Craig Maesglese (Stage 14) Stage 20 Pen-y-Pass to ...... 224 Stage 21 Llyn Ogwen to Conwy...... 230 Appendix A The checkpoints...... 242 Appendix B Glossary of Welsh words and places on the Cambrian Way. . .243 Appendix C Useful contacts...... 246 Appendix D Accommodation list...... 248

Acknowledgements This guide could not have been written without the hard work of numerous people starting with Tony Drake, the Area Footpath Secretary of ’ Association (now The Ramblers), who devoted much of his life to walking the mountains of Wales and who worked for many years in finding the best route from south to north. Tony was also very involved in the creation of the and Offa’s Dyke Path. Since his death in 2012, his work has been carried on by the Ramblers Cambrian Way Working Group and the Cambrian Way Trust. Thanks are due to Jacky Cross, Tony Drake, Max Grant, Amanda Hill, Mavis and Bob Rear, Oliver Wicks, Ramblers GB, Ramblers Cymru, and Beacons national parks and members of Ramblers groups along the route. Special acknowledgement is due to Dilys Harlow and Alan Browning for supplying the geology section and downloadable geology map and table.

Mountain safety Every mountain walk has its dangers, and those described in this guidebook are no exception. All who walk or climb in the mountains should recognise this and take responsibility for themselves and their companions along the way. The author and publisher have made every effort to ensure that the information contained in this guide was correct when it went to press, but, except for any liability that cannot be excluded by law, they cannot accept responsibility for any loss, injury or inconve- nience sustained by any person using this book. International distress signal (emergency only) Six blasts on a whistle (and flashes with a torch after dark) spaced evenly for one minute, followed by a minute’s pause. Repeat until an answer is received. The response is three signals per minute followed by a minute’s pause. Helicopter rescue The following signals are used to communicate with a helicopter: Help needed: Help not needed: Help required: Help required:Help not required: Help not required: raise bothraise arms both arms raise both armsraise one arm abraiseove oneraise arm one arm above above headabov toe head to above head tohead, extend aboveother head,head, extend extend other form a ‘V’ arm downward form a ‘Y’ form a ‘V’ arm downwotherard arm downward

Emergency telephone numbers UK: 999 Weather reports www.mwis.org.uk

The Cambrian Way includes the 690m summit of Cnicht (Stage 18) Bwlch y Ddwy Glyder provides an excellent view over Nant Ffrancon (Stage 20)  The Cambrian Way

Route symbols on OS map extracts Features on the overview map (for OS legend see printed OS maps) County/Unitary boundary route National boundary alternative route rail services start point Urban area finish point National Park alternative start point eg Forest Park/National Forest alternative start point eg National Forest route direction Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty/National Scenic Area eg Clwydian Range 0 1 km >800m 600m The extracts from OS maps used 400m in this book have been reproduced 200m at 1:50,000 75m 0m

GPX files for all routes can be downloaded free at www.cicerone.co.uk/990/GPX.

Conwy from Conwy Mountain (Stage 21)

8 9 e Hills e Hills

he ambrian ay verview map

 T C W Whitchurch Whitchurch O

M49 M49 M49 M49 Whitchurch Whitchurch ells ells ells ells A49 A49 A49 A49 A49 Shrewsbury Shrewsbury A49

Ross-on-Wye Ross-on-Wye

Shropshi r Shropshi r A57 A57 A57 A57 A57 A57 M56 M56

M62 M62 Chepstow Chepstow A59 A59 A59 A59 A59 A59 W W W W Wigan Wigan Cheddar Cheddar Cheddar Cheddar dale dale dale

Bristol Bristol

A44 A44 A44 A44 A44

Leyland Leyland A44

A40 A40

A40 A40 M48 M48 M48

e e e e A465 A465 A465

Skelmers- Skelmers- Skelmers- A465 A465

A41 A41 A465

A534 A534 A534 A534

A534

A534 A5 A5

Preston Preston

Preston Preston

A4112 A4112 A4112 A4112 A4112

A55 A55 A4112

A55 A55 M58 M58 M58 M58 Hills Hills

83 83 Hills Hills

A368 A368 A368 A368 A368 A368

M57 M57 A59 A59 A59 A59 A59 A59 M4 M4 M4 M4 Mendip Mendip

A5 A5 A570 A570

A449 A449 A449 A449

gavenny gavenny

gavenny gavenny A458 A458 A458 A458 A458 A458 A438 A438 Church Church A5 A5 Church Church A39 A39 Stretton Stretton Stretton Stretton Castle Castle Castle Castle

Usk Usk

A483 A483

A483 A483 Usk Usk Ellesme r Ellesme r Ellesme r Ellesme r s s s s s s Bishops

Bishops Bishops

Bishops

A41 A41

A41 A41 M5 M5 M5 M5 Queensferry Queensferry Queensferry M53 M53 Oswestry Oswestry Oswestry Oswestry A4042A4042 Abe r Abe r

Abe r Abe r

A565 A565

A565 A565 Knighton Knighton Knighton Knighton nham- nham- e e nham- nham- nham- nham- Kington Kington Kington Kington Clevedon Clevedon Clevedon Clevedon Chester Chester A48(M) A48(M)

Hay- Hay- Hay- Hay- on-Sea on-Sea

on-Sea on-Sea A5 A5 on-Sea on-Sea

Capel-y-ffin Capel-y-ffin Capel-y-ffin Capel-y-ffin ytham ytham ytham ytham ytham ytham

Newport Newport Newport Newport A483 A483 A483 A483 A483 A483 Bu r Bu r Bu r Bu r Bu r Bu r on-Wye on-Wye on-Wye on-Wye L L L L L L Montgomery Montgomery Montgomery Montgomery St Anne ’ St Anne ’ St Anne ’ St Anne ’ St Anne ’ St Anne ’ Clun Clun Clun Clun -Ma r -Ma r Bootle Bootle

exham exham

A55 A55

A55 A55 r r Machen Machen Machen Machen Mold Mold Mold Mold

A44 A44 CARDIFF CARDIFF ale ale ale ale ale Formby Formby Formby Formby Holywell Holywell Holywell Holywell

W W

A48 A48 allasey allasey V V V V V Southport Southport elshpool elshpool elshpool elshpool Llangollen Llangollen Llangollen Llangollen Ebbw Ebbw Ebbw Ebbw Ebbw Ebbw

Cwmbran Cwmbran

Pontypool Pontypool Pontypool Pontypool Crickhowell Crickhowell Crickhowell Crickhowell

A494 A494 A494 A494 A494

W W R Dee R Dee A494 A479 A479

W W W W

ells ells ells ells

A483 A483 A483 A483 A483

Liverpool Liverpool A483 Liverpool Liverpool

A483 A483 A483 A483 A483 Birkenhead A483 Birkenhead Birkenhead Birkenhead

S S S S S

S A465 A465 A465 A465 A465 A465 Bridgwater Bridgwater Barry Barry Barry Barry

A5 A5

Bridgwater Bay Bridgwater Bay N N N N N

N A470 A470

Range Range Range Range Caerphilly Caerphilly Caerphilly Caerphilly

I I I I I

Clwydian Clwydian I Clwydian Clwydian Llanfyllin Llanfyllin Llanfyllin

algarth algarth einion einion einion einion

r r eston-supe r eston-supe r T T Talgarth A A A A A

A ells ells ells ells econ econ econ econ

Bay Bay Bay T T T T T T Llanfair Llanfair Llanfair Llanfair

W W

A55 A55

W W W W Corwen Corwen Corwen Corwen Builth Builth Builth Builth B r B r B r B r Cae Cae Cae r Cae r

Pen y Fan Pen y Fan Pen y Fan N N N N N N A44 A44

A470 A470 Ruthin Ruthin Ruthin Liverpool Liverpool M4

A458 A458 M4 M4

Denbigh Denbigh Denbigh Denbigh

Newtown Newtown Newtown Newtown

A470 A470 A470 A470 A470 A470 Williton Williton Williton Williton

U U U U U U L L

ydfil ydfil ydfil ydfil ydfil ydfil

Minehead Minehead Minehead Minehead e e e e e e O O O O O O Llandrindod W Llandrindod W Llandrindod W Llandrindod W

Rhayader Rhayader Rhayader

T T T T T T E E Llanidloes Llanidloes Llanidloes

gele gele gele gele n n n n

Pontypridd Pontypridd Pontypridd Pontypridd Rhondda Rhondda Rhondda Rhondda

r r

Rhyl Rhyl Rhyl Rhyl efoelas efoelas efoelas efoelas Merthyr Merthyr Merthyr Merthyr Merthyr Merthyr

M M M M M

M N N da r da r da r da r da r da r Llangurig

A470 A470 Llangurig Llangurig

N N Abe r Abe r Abe r Abe r

Storey Arms Storey Arms Storey Arms Storey Arms

Pent r Pent r

Pent r Pent r A A

alhaia alhaia alhaia r alhaia r ells ells ells ells

Bridgend Bridgend Bridgend Bridgend Abe r Abe r Abe r Abe r Abe r Abe r Llanfair Llanfair Llanfair Llanfair Dinas Dinas Dinas Dinas

Y Bala Y Y Bala Y Bala Y Y Bala Y Carno Carno Carno

T T T T

N N N N N N

A470 A470 A470 A470 A470 A470

A483 A483 A483 A483 A483 A483 W W W W H H

Mawddwy Mawddwy Mawddwy Mawddwy Bay Bay Bay Bay

A A A A A

A Llanwrtyd Llanwrtyd Llanwrtyd Colwyn Colwyn Colwyn Colwyn I I I I I I C C

A5 A5 Porlock Porlock

A5 A5 Porlock Porlock

A465 A465

A465 A465

Sennybridge Sennybridge Sennybridge A494 A494 A494 A494 A494 A494 R R R R R R

Maesteg Maesteg Maesteg Maesteg

L L EXMOOR EXMOOR

B B B B B B

A489 A489 A489 A489 A489

A489 A40 A40

BRECON BEACONS BRECON BEACONS

A470 A470 BRECON BEACONS BRECON BEACONS Dylife Dylife A470 A470 Dylife Dylife

Glyntawe Glyntawe Glyntawe Glyntawe Claerddu Claerddu Claerddu Claerddu Neath Neath Neath Neath M M M M M M O O

Bwlch Bwlch Bwlch Bwlch

Llanrwst Llanrwst Llanrwst

Llandovery Llandovery Llandovery Llandovery Betws- Betws- A A A A A Betws- Betws- A Dolgellau Dolgellau Dolgellau y-Coed y-Coed T T y-Coed y-Coed

Llyn Bach Llyn Bach Llyn Bach Llyn Bach

Llan Llan Llan Llan

A A A A A A 7 7 7 7 7 7 8 8 8 8 8 8 4 4 4 4 4 4 C C C C C Llandudno C Llandudno Llandudno Llandudno S S

I I Ffestiniog Ffestiniog Ffestiniog Maentwrog Maentwrog Maentwrog Maentwrog Idris Idris Idris Idris Porthcawl Porthcawl Porthcawl Porthcawl Cwm Cwm Cwm Cwm on on on on albot albot albot albot Port Port Port Port Cadair Cadair SNOWDONIA SNOWDONIA SNOWDONIA SNOWDONIA Pumlumon Pumlumon Cadair Cadair Pumlumon

A5 A5 A470 A470 Pumlumon R R

Bychan Bychan Bychan Bychan

T T T T

A55 A55

A55 A55

Conwy Conwy Conwy Conwy

A483 A483 A483 A483 A483 A483 A487 A487 A487 A487 A487

Machynlleth A487 Machynlleth Machynlleth

A44 A44 A44 A44 A44 A44 Pass Pass Pass Pass B B Bay Bay Bay Bay ynton ynton ynton ynton Pen-y- Pen-y- Pen-y- Pen-y- Ponterwyd Ponterwyd Ponterwyd Ponterwyd Llangadog Llangadog Llangadog od od od od Brynamman Brynamman Brynamman L L L L ega r ega r ega r ega r ega r ega r r r r r r r Bethesda Bethesda Bethesda Bethesda Swansea Swansea T T T T T T T ŷ n-y-cornel T ŷ n-y-cornel A483 A483 T ŷ’ n-y-cornel T ŷ’ n-y-cornel Swansea Swansea M4 M4 M4 M4 Pumsaint Pumsaint Pumsaint Pumsaint Blaenau Blaenau Blaenau Blaenau Lled r Lled r Lled r Lled r Ffestiniog Ffestiniog Ffestiniog Ffestiniog Llandeilo Llandeilo Llandeilo Llyn Llyn Llyn Llyn Ogwen Ogwen Ogwen Ogwen Bangor Bangor Bangor Bangor Beaumaris Beaumaris Beaumaris Beaumaris Benllech Benllech Benllech Benllech Lampeter Lampeter Lampeter Lampeter

ywyn ywyn ywyn ywyn

T T T T

A487 A487 A487 A487 A487

A487 Braunton Braunton

A48 A48 A48 A48 r r Ammanford Ammanford Barmouth Barmouth Barmouth Barmouth Snowdon Snowdon Snowdon Harlech Harlech Harlech o o Menai Menai Menai Menai Bridge Bridge Bridge Bridge Port-Eynon Port-Eynon Beddgelert Beddgelert Beddgelert Beddgelert Porthmadog Porthmadog Porthmadog Llanelli Llanelli Llanelli Llanelli h h

g g 8h 8h

4h 4h u u Amlwch Amlwch

Criccieth Criccieth Criccieth

o o o o o o

L L L L L L

on on on on

Kidwelly Kidwelly Kidwelly Kidwelly Synod Inn Synod Inn Synod Inn Synod Inn Aberystwyth Aberystwyth Aberystwyth Aberystwyth

Carmarthen Carmarthen Carmarthen Carmarthen

R R R R R R s s Llanrhystud Llanrhystud Llanrhystud Llanrhystud

Ilfracombe Ilfracombe

A55 A55

A55 A55 narfon narfon narfon narfon Pwllheli Pwllheli Pwllheli Llangefni Llangefni Llangefni Llangefni ˆ ˆ ˆ ˆ Elfed Elfed Elfed Elfed Cynwyl Cynwyl Cynwyl Cynwyl North North Aberae r Aberae r North North Aberae r Aberae r

Devon Devon Devon Devon A487 A487 A487 A487 A487 A487 ANGLESEY ANGLESEY Abersoch

Abersoch Abersoch

A40 A40

A40 A40 Cae r Cae r Cae r Cae r Gower Gower Gower Gower or or or or Emlyn Emlyn Emlyn Emlyn Barnstaple Barnstaple Barnstaple Barnstaple Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle New Quay New Quay New Quay New Quay Bideford Bay Bideford Bay Bideford Bay Bideford Bay Nefyn Nefyn Nefyn Worms Head / Penrhyn-Gwyr Worms Head / Penrhyn-Gwyr Worms Head / Penrhyn-Gwyr Worms Head / Penrhyn-Gwyr ˆ ˆ ˆ ˆ Bay Bay Bay Bay Llyn Llyn Llyn Llyn Pendine Pendine Pendine Pendine Rhosneigr Rhosneigr Rhosneigr Rhosneigr Bay Caernarfon Bay Caernarfon Bay Caernarfon Bay St Clears St Clears St Clears St Clears Carmarthen Carmarthen km km Island Island Island Island

A40 A40

A477 A477 A477 A477 A477 Bardsey Bardsey Bardsey A477 Bardsey Bardsey 20 20 enby enby enby enby Holy Island Holy Island Holyhead Holyhead Holyhead Holyhead digan digan digan digan T T T T Crymych Crymych Crymych Crymych 10 miles 10 miles

Ca r Ca r Ca r Ca r

d d d d Narberth Narberth Lundy Lundy

L L L L L

N N L

CARDIGAN BAY / CARDIGAN BAY / CARDIGAN BAY

E E E E E E s s s

BAE CEREDIGION BAE CEREDIGION

’

dwest dwest dwest N N N N N

N r

N N N N N N

A A A A A A oke oke

oke oke

r

H H H H H H

C C C C C

C A40 A40

Fishgua r Fishgua r Fishgua r Fishgua r Fishgua r Fishgua r 0 0

0 0

Head Head Head Head S S S S S S

’ ’ ’ ’ ’ ’

A4076 A4076 A4076 A4076 A4076 A4076

E E E E E

E St Govan ’ St Govan ’ Pemb r Pemb r Pemb r Pemb r Pemb Pemb r G G G G G

G Haverfo r Haverfo r Haverfo r Haverfo r

R R R R R

R d d d d O O O O O

O r r IRISH SEA E E E E E E

G G G G G

G oke Dock oke Dock

Head Head ......

T T T T T T Goodwick Goodwick

Strumble Strumble S S S S S S Haven Haven Haven Haven Milfo r Milfo r 10 Milfo Milfo 11 Pemb r Pemb r Pemb r Pemb r COAST COAST St Brides Bay St Brides Bay PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE The Cambrian Way Route summary table ROUTE SUMMARY TABLE

Stage Start/finish Distance Ascent Descent Time Page

1 Cardiff to Machen 24.5km (15¼ miles) 480m (1570ft) 440m (1440ft) 6–7¼hr 38

2 Machen to Pontypool 18.5km (11½ miles) 830m (2720ft) 770m (2520ft) 5¾–6¾hr 48

3 Pontypool to Abergavenny 20km (12¼ miles) 580m (1890ft) 640m (2080ft) 5–6¼hr 56

4 Abergavenny to Capel-y-ffin 21.5km (13¼ miles) 1130m (3700ft) 870m (2850ft) 6¼–8hr 64

5 Capel-y-ffin to Crickhowel 26.5km (16½ miles) 950m (3110ft) 1180m (3860ft) 7–9hr 71

6 Crickhowell to Storey Arms 33.5km (21 miles) 1720m (5630ft) 1370m (4490ft) 9¾–12½hr 79

7 Storey Arms to Glyntawe 19km (11¾ miles) 690m (2250ft) 930m (3040ft) 5–6¼hr 95

8 Glyntawe to Llandovery 29.5km (18½ miles) 1360m (4460ft) 1500m (4930ft) 8¼–10¾hr 105

9 Llandovery to Tŷ’n-y-cornel 26km (16 miles) 870m (2850ft) 620m (2030ft) 6¾–8½hr 115

10 Tŷ’n-y-cornel to Claerddu 23.5km (14½ miles) 820m (2700ft) 690m (2250ft) 6¼–7¾hr 124

11 Claerddu to Ponterwyd 24km (14¾ miles) 910m (2970ft) 1140m (3740ft) 6½–8¼hr 133

12 Ponterwyd to Dylife 23.5km (14½ miles) 920m (3030ft) 780m (2550ft) 6½–8¼hr 141

13 Dylife to Dinas Mawddwy 37km (23 miles) 1470m (4820ft) 1740m (5720ft) 10–12¾hr 149

14 Dinas Mawddwy to Bwlch Llyn Bach 15.5km (9½ miles) 1170m (3830ft) 980m (3210ft) 5–6¾hr 163

15 Bwlch Llyn Bach to Barmouth 20km (12½ miles) 970m (3180ft) 1240m (4070ft) 5¾–7½hr 171

16 Barmouth to Cwm Bychan 23km (14 miles) 1690m (5540ft) 1530m (5020ft) 8½–10¾hr* 180

17 Cwm Bychan to Maentwrog 16km (9¾ miles) 860m (2810ft) 1000m (3290ft) 5½–7hr* 196

18 Maentwrog to Beddgelert 22km (13½ miles) 1340m (4390ft) 1320m (4320ft) 7–8¾hr 205

19 Beddgelert to Pen-y-Pass 17.5km (10¾ miles) 1390m (4560ft) 1060m (3490ft) 5¾–7¾hr 217

20 Pen-y-Pass to Llyn Ogwen 8.5km (5½ miles) 810m (2670ft) 870m (2860ft) 4–5hr* 224

21 Llyn Ogwen to Conwy 30.5km (19 miles) 1580m (5180ft) 1870m (6120ft) 9–11½hr 230

Total 479km (298 miles) 22,460m (73,700ft) 22,480m (73,760ft) 136–174hr

* extra hour added for slow progress

12 13  The CTheambrian Cambrian Way Way Trek Planner

KM from Cardi (cont) KM from Cardi Cardi 0 480 2.8km M4 junction 140 340 7.4km 13.5km Tongwynlais 10 470 Storey Arms Brecon 7.7km 3km Fan Dringarth Thornhill Caerphilly 150 330 Rudry 20 460 0.8km Draethen Machen 160 320 1.9km Craig-y-nos 0.8km Crosskeys 0.7km Risca Tawe Bridge Glyntawe 30 450 3.5km 1.1km Mynydd Henllys 1.8km Cwmbran 0.8km Mynydd Maen 1.8km 170 310 40 440 0.5km Llanddeusant Pontypool 3.2km 180 300 Mynydd Ganclochdy 50 430 1.3km 190 290 1km Llandovery 1km 60 420 0.8km Abergavenny 3.4km Chain Road 3.4km 200 3.6km Pendrainllwyn 280 0.4km 70 410 Rhandirmwyn 0.7km Rhandirmwyn Bridge Rhandirmwyn Bridge 210 270 Bâl Bach 2.3km 80 400 2.9km Nant Lluest-fach 8.1km Capel-y- n Blacksmith’s Anvil Ty’n-y-cornel 220 260 90 390 7.8km 5.2km Nantymaen junction SO 202 323 SN 744 595 8km Tregaron Garn Gron 230 250 6.2km Pontrhydfendigaid 100 380 Strata Florida 1.8km Pontrhydfendigaid 240 240 110 370 Claerddu Llangattock Crickhowell 0.4km Darren Cilau 1.8km 250 230 120 360 5.3km 0.3km 6.6km Danywenallt Rhos-tyddyn Devil’s Bridge 0.9km Blaen-dyryn Crawnon 5.7km Abercynafon 260 220 130 350 9km Talybont-on-Usk KM from Conwy (cont) 14 KM from Conwy (cont) 15  The Cambrian Way

KM from Cardi (cont) KM from Cardi (cont) 1km Moelfryn 3.4km 0.7km Ponterwyd 1.5km 270 210 Maentwrog 400 80 1.8km Tan-y-bwlch 0.7km Dduallt Moelwyn Mine 1.7km 4.3km 280 200 410 70

Cnicht (SH 628 450) 0.5km SN 864 935 4.1km SN 873 904 Dylife 290 190 4.4km Pennant 420 60 Beddgelert 1.7km Nant Colwyn Cau-du Bryn Dinas 0.8km Bethania 300 180 430 50 1.7km 1km Snowdon summit 6.6km 3.4km Cemmaes Bwlch Glas Commins Gwalia 0.4km 310 170 Pen-y-Pass 440 40 1.9km Pen-y-Gwryd 6.2km The Miners’ Track Capel Curig 1.5km Ogwen 320 160 Tal y Llyn Ogwen 450 30 1.1km 6.8km Capel Curig Dinas Mawddwy Maes-y-camlan 0.9km Minllyn 1.5km Bwlch Llyn Bach 0.5km 330 150 Foel Grach 460 20 3km 2.8km 3.4km Min†ordd 4.8km Dol-†anog 6.6km Tal-y-llyn Bwlch y Ddeufaen 0.8km 1.9km Rhiw 140 E end of Tal y Fan ridge 10 340 Pensychnant 470 0.8km Capelulo 2.9km Rowen 3.5km Islaw’r-dref 6.4km Dolgellau 3km Pony Path 350 130 Conwy 480 0 1.3km Garth-yfog KM from Conwy Llynnau Cregennen 1.5km Brynhyfryd 360 120 0.7km Barmouth 2km SH 619 159 Barmouth Harbour 0.6km Bunkorama Symbol Key

370 110 Hotel/B&B/Pub with rooms Bothy Toilets 7.5km Hostel (self catering)/Bunkhouse Pub Shop 8km Bronaber Hostel (with catering) Refreshments ATM Bwlch Drws Ardudwy 10km 380 100 7.5km Camping Parking Post o•ce Bwlch Tyddiad 8km Bronaber Cwm Bychan Camping pods Bus 8.3km Harlech Shelter Railway 390 90

KM from Conwy (cont) 16 NOTE: Bus services are very limited and/or irregular, and may not operate on Sundays.17 Post o•ce services may not be available every day. The Cambrian Way

INTRODUCTION

Llyn Caseg-fraith and Y Foel Goch from the rock-strewn (Stage 20)

THE MOUNTAIN CONNOISSEURS’ Tempting as it may be, the Cambrian WALK Way should not be the first outing The Cambrian Way starts in the south attempted by the novice trekker. It is of Wales at Cardiff Castle in the centre nearly 300 miles long and much of the of the country’s capital and ends at route is in open access country, requir- Conwy, the mighty northern fortress of a ing good navigational skills. Some sec- town. Both castles were built in the 12th tions are long and remote, and accom- century by the Normans in an endeav- modation can be rudimentary. While the our to keep the rebellious people of mountains are not high, reaching a little Wales under control. Between the two over 1000m, the isolation and the chal- lies glorious verdant countryside featur- lenge of the highest peaks require good ing steep-sided valleys with streams and mountain walking experience. Much of waterfalls, picturesque rolling hills, an the route has been waymarked using abundance of high ridges and, in the the Cambrian Way Welsh hat symbol, north, rugged, cragged and challeng- but waymarks are not generally found ing mountains. Much of the route runs on the mountain sections of the way. through two national parks – Brecon As the route follows public rights of way Beacons and Snowdonia – as well as from footpaths to roads a whole variety most of the areas in Wales that have of other waymarks will be found, but been designated as wilderness. this can be at times misleading where

18 19 Descent into Glyntawe (Stage 7; photo: Oliver Wicks) The Cambrian Way Stage 1 – Cardiff to Machen

STAGE 1 Cardiff to Machen

Start Cardiff Castle (ST 181 765) Finish A468 near St John’s Church, Machen (ST 212 892) Distance 24.5km (15¼ miles) Total ascent 480m (1570ft) Total descent 440m (1440ft) Time 6–7¼hr Maps OS Explorer 151 and 152; OS Landranger 171 Refreshments Tongwynlais, Thornhill, Rudry Public transport Wide range of rail and bus services at Cardiff; bus service to Caerphilly from Machen Accommodation Cardiff; Rudry 19.5km (+1km); Draethen 22.5km (+1km); Caerphilly (+7km) Cardiff Castle’s impressive entrance

Starting from the entrance to Cardiff Castle, which is It is planned to place The walk starts with fine parkland on the banks of Afon Taff and continues with Checkpoint 1, go W towards Afon Taff for 300 metres to find a plaque here to mark some canal bank and road walking over and under a large road interchange to the gates of Bute Park on the right. the Cambrian Way. climb to Castell Coch. Beyond this, there is ridge walking on forest tracks and farmland with fine views to the Brecon Beacons and the Severn Estuary before Alternative route along the west bank descending steeply to the old mining village of Machen. Very early starters might find that the park gates are locked (they are open from 7.30am until 30 minutes before sunset). However, the west bank route through Sophia Gardens is Cardiff Castle may look relatively modern, but it is on almost equally attractive. Return to the east bank after 200

the site of a third-century Roman fort and the original metres by a suspension footbridge. motte-and-bailey castle was built by the Normans in the 11th century. Huge changes were made in Victorian times to turn it into a fairytale castle, but the old castle keep has survived and the remains of old stonework can be seen at the base of the outside walls. The magnificent clock tower and many other Cardi Castle WhitchurchM4 junctionCastell CochThornhillCefn OnnMaenllwyd (259m) InnMachen m parts were built by the Bute family with their great 1000 wealth derived from coal and iron. The Animal Wall

in front of the castle, built in the 1890s, contained 800 many grotesque gargoyles, but road widening after World War 1 meant that the whole wall was moved 600 along the road towards the bridge and more animals were added. Weathering caused a lot of damage, so 400 they were extensively restored in 2010. 200 38 39 0 4 8 12 16 20 24 28km 0 The Cambrian Way Stage 1 – Cardiff to Machen

Easy wide paths lead through Bute Park, and there is a bridge is a railway bridge with a pedes- choice of walking by the river- trian walkway at the far side; cross the side or through formal gardens. bridge and follow a path NE, with trees on Look out for the After 1.2km the path enters the left and a housing estate on the right, restored Melingriffith woodland lining the riverbank, for 200 metres until it joins Ty-Mawr water pump on the passing a weir and footbridge Road through a residential area of left shortly after 700 metres further along where the Whitchurch.4 joining the road. Taff crosses the river to join the After 250 metres bear left, Cambrian Way. The route follows where Ty-Mawr Road joins the river as it turns to the west for the wider Forest Farm road, a further 1km, at which point cross and follow this for 150 If short of time, this the Gabalfa bridge to visit Llandaff metres. Then, do not follow diversion can be Cathedral.3Across the bridge, take the the , which con- omitted by continuing riverside path W for 600 metres, passing tinues along the riverbank along the Taff Trail by Cardiff University, then turn left and – instead look out for the to rejoin the route walk across playing fields for 150 metres to entrance to the Glamorgan at Whitchurch. reach the cathedral. Canal Nature Reserve on Head WNW from the cathedral for 400 the right, and follow the metres, going near to the river but round to the left bank of the disused left of Llandaff Rowing Club, then join the A4054 canal for 1.4km road near Llandaff Bridge. It is possible to return to Map continues the east bank of the Taff by crossing here, but the route on page 44 follows the west bank along Radyr Court Road, a minor riverside road. Glamorgan Canal After 900 metres do not turn left under a railway bridge Nature Reserve but continue along a riverside path for a further 950 metres, (photo: Oliver Wicks) swinging from NW to NE round a bend in the river. The next

until it comes to an end, passing old lock gates and water lilies on the canal. This is a tranquil place for a break, with the occasional heron and other wildlife, and old tree trunks for seating.

40 41 The Cambrian Way Stage 1 – Cardiff to Machen

Castle View C At the end of the canal, climb a steep bank with steps w e m v i G r to the busy M4 motorway intersection. A series of pedestrian w D yn lals w walkways and bridges cross this ‘spaghetti’ junction (see o P d w a e map). First cross a road then pass behind a petrol station to There are pubs, l l h m e n ly e reach a footbridge – from which there is a view of Castell shops and a fish- g re Merthyr Road G Coch (‘red castle’) on the hillside ahead – then take two and-chip shop in underpasses and cross over a footbridge to reach the A4054 Tongwynlais, and (Merthyr Road), a total of 700 metres from the canal. Follow hotels and B&Bs near the A4054 NW for 700 metres into Tongwynlais. the M4 interchange. A470 A4054 footbridge Turn right in the centre of Tongwynlais and head N up A470 Mill Road, which then becomes Castle Road. Ignore any turnings until you reach the main entrance gate for vehi- cles after 600 metres, then turn sharp left past car parks Northern Avenue underpass and continue for 350 metres to reach Castell Coch, which is Checkpoint 2. A470 Castell Coch is a fairytale-style Victorian castle built on Norman foundations. It was a complete ruin A470 until 1870, at which point it was rebuilt as a country residence for the 3rd Marquess of Bute. The internal decor is lavish and worth a visit. It is now owned by Cadw, the Welsh body that looks after historical buildings, and it is open to the public most months of the year. See https://cadw.gov.wales for details. underpass From the castle, turn sharp right on a path going NE up the M4 M4 fairly steep hillside through the forest, another part of the Taff Trail. Do not follow the Taff Trail where it turns left after 300 Unfortunately, there metres, but keep straight on along the main forest track, which are no views here, climbs more gently and provides easier walking for 1.6km although there are through Fforest-fawr (‘big forest’), first heading N then NE. A some points of interest footbridge number of tracks join or cross but keep to the main track. along the way.

A470 At ST 136 836, The Arches or Three Bears Caves can be seen on the left along with an explana- filling station tory board telling of their history as three mine entrances, or adits. The site is now in use as a set- N ting for a number of film and TV scenes in produc- Longwood Drive walk across road tions that include Doctor Who, Merlin, Sherlock, Longwood Drive Harry Potter and Robin Hood. A short way after this 0 100 is the start of a Sculpture Trail running parallel to the m main route; an interesting alternative that adds very canal little extra distance.

42 43 The Cambrian Way Stage 1 – Cardiff to Machen

a few gates before reaching Golf Course at Thornhill after 1.5km. The right of way goes through the middle of the course, so beware of flying golf balls!At this point the Rhymney The club’s restaurant Valley Ridgeway Walk joins the Cambrian Way. A 300-metre is on the route and walk down the golf course access road leads to the A469 is open to walkers. Thornhill Road. The Travellers’ Rest pub is about 100 metres to the right, but the route goes across the road past a large farm where it continues to follow the Ridgeway Walk. Go E along the edge of woodland for 800 metres with some views to the right between the trees. Continue on the The forest floor is Ridgeway Walk for the next 300 metres before passing below carpeted with wild an overhead power line and entering more woodland, then garlic, which has turn left after a gate. Before descending very far, after 100 white flowers and metres turn right to follow a track through the trees along the a strong scent in hillside.After 400 metres of fairly level walking along the early summer. gently sloping hillside, the main route forks left to go around an old quarry, but a path straight ahead leads to the edge of the quarry, which Three Bears Caves At the end of the Sculpture Trail there is a car park and has some of the best views along 150 metres further on the track joins Hoel-Y-Fforest, a minor the ridge, making it a fine road coming up the valley from Tongwynlais. Cross the place to take a rest. road and turn sharp right near an information board along a track into Fforestganol (‘central forest’), heading SSE then S through the forest along the eastern side of the valley. Look out for a path on the left heading ESE up the hillside, ignor- ing the first path after 100 metres and taking the bet- ter path after 200 metres (not shown on OS maps). This joins a road in 100 metres after going up some steps. Turn right along the road and walk for a short way until a track forks off sharp left at Bwlch- y-cwm (‘pass of the valley’). Map continues Take the track, which fol- on page 47 lows the ridge NNE through woodland at first and past a quarry on the left, entering From the ridge an area with fewer trees and there are fine views better views of the country- north overlooking the Rhymney side. The way goes in and out Valley and Caerphilly with its mag- of small sections of woodland, nificent castle. One of the castle’s towers passing a farm on the right and leans at an angle that seems to defy gravity.

44 45 The Cambrian Way Stage 1 – Cardiff to Machen

On a clear day it is even possible to see Pen y Fan Continue W on the track and descend from the in the Brecon Beacons – visited on Stage 6 of the ridge after 350 metres to come out at a crossroads by the walk, five days ahead. To the south is Cardiff and Maenllwyd Inn. Take the road going NE to the right of the inn the Bristol Channel. for 400 metres, keeping to the right where a road forks off to the left. Where the road turns left towards Penhow Farm after A short drop down the hillside from the quarry allows a further 450 metres, turn right to enter the forest through you to rejoin the route as it skirts around N of the quarry an opening in the trees at SN 208 871 and take the forest before climbing back up onto the ridge after 400 metres. track going ENE past old lead mines for 400 metres, shortly For accommodation (Ignore the right of way through the quarry shown on OS entering Coed Cefn-pwll-du.4There are a number of forest in Draethen (800 maps – it is impractical.) Follow the ridge for 200 metres tracks, but the route follows the main wide track as it swings metres off-route), take ENE through patchy woodland to the open ridge of Cefn N then W and N again, gradually descending to reach a the track that forks Here a path to the Onn (‘ash tree ridge’). After 500 metres cross a minor road minor road where the forest ends after 1.9km at ST 211 888. right at ST 212 873. N leads down to and continue along the ridge as it climbs and then stead- Cross the road and head NNE down a lane towards Afon Rudry (300 metres) ily descends for 1.3km.3Continue ahead along the track Rhymni for 300 metres, passing houses on the right. for those seeking through the wood for a further 550 metres, dropping further At the end of the lane turn left and continue for accommodation. to a dip with a wide metal gate across the track. 100 metres then turn right over the bridge and go straight ahead for 100 metres to There is a secret World War 2 bunker at ST 199 the A468. Turn right and continue for 865, up a small hill to the right, but this can easily 100 metres to the point where a road be missed as it is somewhat hidden in the trees. It leads up past the church on the left. was a communication and operation centre in the This is Machen, the end of the event of an invasion, with a deep, well-concealed stage. There are not many facili- View from the old bunker and an aerial hidden in the trees. An infor- ties here, but there is a bus service quarry on Cefn Onn mation board shows what it looked like. to Caerphilly and beyond (turn left instead of right along the A468 and continue for 150 metres to a bus stop past the school). There is also a con- venience store on a road to the left past the church.

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