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Untitled Bomb Shelter at the 2005 New Territories/National Live Art Review in Glasgow Smart clothes and wearable technology The Textile Institute and Woodhead Publishing The Textile Institute is a unique organisation in textiles, clothing and footwear. Incorporated in England by a Royal Charter granted in 1925, the Institute has individual and corporate members in over 90 countries. The aim of the Institute is to facilitate learning, recognise achievement, reward excellence and disseminate information within the global textiles, clothing and footwear industries. Historically, The Textile Institute has published books of interest to its members and the textile industry. To maintain this policy, the Institute has entered into part- nership with Woodhead Publishing Limited to ensure that Institute members and the textile industry continue to have access to high calibre titles on textile science and technology. Most Woodhead titles on textiles are now published in collaboration with The Textile Institute. Through this arrangement, the Institute provides an Editorial Board which advises Woodhead on appropriate titles for future publication and suggests possible editors and authors for these books. Each book published under this arrangement carries the Institute’s logo. Woodhead books published in collaboration with The Textile Institute are offered to Textile Institute members at a substantial discount. These books, together with those published by The Textile Institute that are still in print, are offered on the Woodhead web site at: www.woodheadpublishing.com. Textile Institute books still in print are also available directly from the Institute’s website at: www. textileinstitutebooks.com. A list of Woodhead books on textile science and technology, most of which have been published in collaboration with The Textile Institute, can be found at the end of the contents pages. Woodhead Publishing in Textiles: Number 83 Smart clothes and wearable technology Edited by J. McCann and D. Bryson Oxford Cambridge New Delhi Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute Woodhead Publishing Limited, Abington Hall, Granta Park, Great Abington Cambridge CB21 6AH, UK www.woodheadpublishing.com Woodhead Publishing India Private Limited, G-2, Vardaan House, 7/28 Ansari Road, Daryaganj, New Delhi – 110002, India Published in North America by CRC Press LLC, 6000 Broken Sound Parkway, NW, Suite 300, Boca Raton, FL 33487, USA First published 2009, Woodhead Publishing Limited and CRC Press LLC © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2009 The authors have asserted their moral rights. This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated. Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the authors and the publishers cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials. Neither the authors nor the publishers, nor anyone else associated with this publication, shall be liable for any loss, damage or liability directly or indirectly caused or alleged to be caused by this book. Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfi lming and recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from Woodhead Publishing Limited. The consent of Woodhead Publishing Limited does not extend to copying for general distribution, for promotion, for creating new works, or for resale. Specifi c permission must be obtained in writing from Woodhead Publishing Limited for such copying. Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identifi cation and explanation, without intent to infringe. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. Woodhead Publishing ISBN 978-1-84569-357-2 (book) Woodhead Publishing ISBN 978-1-84569-566-8 (e-book) CRC Press ISBN 978-1-4398-0113-0 CRC Press order number N10013 The publishers’ policy is to use permanent paper from mills that operate a sustainable forestry policy, and which has been manufactured from pulp which is processed using acid-free and elemental chlorine-free practices. Furthermore, the publishers ensure that the text paper and cover board used have met acceptable environmental accreditation standards. Typeset by SNP Best-set Typesetter Ltd., Hong Kong Printed by TJ International Limited, Padstow, Cornwall, UK Contents Contributor contact details xiii Woodhead Publishing in Textiles xvi Preface xxi Part I The design of smart clothing and wearable technology 1 1 The emergence of wearable computing 3 M. M almivaara, Tampere University of Technology, Finland 1.1 The fi rst devices 3 1.2 The fi rst wearable computers 7 1.3 Wearable electronics 10 1.4 Intelligent clothing 13 1.5 Conclusion: ‘Where can I buy this?’ 22 1.6 References 23 2 Types of smart clothes and wearable technology 25 R. D. H urford, University of Wales Newport, UK 2.1 Introduction 25 2.2 A brief history 26 2.3 Industry sectors’ overview 39 2.4 Current trends 41 2.5 Market forecast 42 2.6 Conclusions 42 2.7 References 43 3 End-user based design of innovative smart clothing 45 J. M c C ann, University of Wales Newport, UK 3.1 Introduction 45 3.2 The garment layering system 46 v vi Contents 3.3 Identifi cation of design requirements 47 3.4 The technology layer: the impact of emerging smart technologies on the design process 54 3.5 Conclusion: a new hybrid design process 63 3.6 Future trends: commercial realities 65 3.7 References 66 4 The garment design process for smart clothing: from fi bre selection through to product launch 70 J. M c C ann, University of Wales Newport, UK 4.1 Introduction 70 4.2 The design brief 74 4.3 2-D design development 77 4.4 Textile development 79 4.5 Initial 3-D design development 81 4.6 Modern construction and joining technology 83 4.7 Integration of wearable technology 84 4.8 Final prototype development 86 4.9 Point of sale 89 4.10 End-of-life cycle 89 4.11 Future trends 90 4.12 References 94 5 Designing smart clothing for the body 95 D. B ryson, University of Derby, UK 5.1 Introduction 95 5.2 Anatomical, physiological and psychological considerations 96 5.3 How smart is smart? 101 5.4 Human–garment interaction 103 5.5 Demands of the body and wearable technology 104 5.6 References 106 Part II Materials and technologies for smart clothing 109 6 The infl uence of knitwear on smart wearables 111 F. S aifee, University of Wales Newport, UK 6.1 Introduction 111 6.2 Technical background of knitwear 112 6.3 Three-dimensional fabrics 115 6.4 Body scanning and texture mapping 118 Contents vii 6.5 Application of knitwear trends to the smart wearable industry 120 6.6 Relevance of knitwear to smart wearables, lifestyle trends and brand innovation 127 6.7 Future trends 128 6.8 Conclusion 129 6.9 Other areas of interest 129 6.10 Bibliography 130 7 Woven structures and their impact on the function and performance of smart clothing 131 L. T homas, Woven Textiles Consultant, UK 7.1 Introduction 131 7.2 Analysing a fabric’s needs 132 7.3 Choosing an appropriate woven structure 134 7.4 Woven structures – ease of movement 143 7.5 Woven structures – wicking and thermoregulation 145 7.6 Woven structures – protection and safety 147 7.7 Three-dimensional fabrics and fully formed seamless woven garments 150 7.8 Woven structures: conductive fabrics 151 7.9 Future trends 152 7.10 Conclusion 154 7.11 Bibliography 154 8 Nonwovens in smart clothes and wearable technologies 156 F. K ane, De Montfort University, UK 8.1 Introduction 156 8.2 Nonwovens technologies and manufacturing processes 158 8.3 End-of-life considerations for nonwovens 173 8.4 Smart and performance clothing applications 174 8.5 Summary 179 8.6 Sources of further information and advice 179 8.7 References 180 9 Sensors and computing systems in smart clothing 183 A. J. M artin, University of Wales Newport, UK 9.1 Introduction 183 9.2 Transduction 183 viii Contents 9.3 Information processing 188 9.4 Application examples 192 9.5 Summary 202 9.6 Future trends 202 9.7 References 202 10 The application of communication technologies in smart clothing 205 P. L am, Wireless Edge Communications Limited, UK 10.1 Introduction 205 10.2 Personal communications networks 206 10.3 Wide area networks 209 10.4 Monitoring systems and service 210 10.5 Opportunities and challenges 212 10.6 Applications 212 10.7 Future trends 213 10.8 References 213 11 Power supply sources for smart textiles 214 G. M in, Cardiff University, UK 11.1 Introduction 214 11.2 Power requirements of portable devices 215 11.3 Established portable power sources 217 11.4 Energy harvesting devices 221 11.5 Energy storage and power management 227 11.6 Challenges and opportunities 228 11.7 References 230 Part III Production technologies for smart clothing 233 12 Garment construction: cutting and placing of materials 235 J. M c C ann, University of Wales Newport, UK, S. M orsky, HAMK Poly, Finland, and X. D ong, China Women’s University, PR China 12.1 Introduction 235 12.2 A user-led design approach 236 12.3 Considering the benefi ts of the military/sports layering system 237 12.4 The traditional approach to pattern development 243 Contents ix 12.5 Introducing a fl at pattern cutting system for functional clothing 245 12.6 Three-dimensional pattern making 251 12.7 Placing of materials 254 12.8 Future trends 257 12.9 References 259 13 Developments in fabric joining for smart clothing 262 I.
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