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Customer Focused Textile and Apparel Manufacturing Systems: Toward an Effective E-Commerce Model

Customer Focused Textile and Apparel Manufacturing Systems: Toward an Effective E-Commerce Model

Volume 4, Issue 4, Summer2005

CUSTOMER FOCUSED AND APPAREL MANUFACTURING SYSTEMS: TOWARD AN EFFECTIVE E-COMMERCE MODEL

JiHyun Bae, Ph.D. Student Traci May-Plumlee, Assistant Professor NCSU, Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management 2401 Research Drive, Box 8301 Raleigh, NC 27695-8301

ABSTRACT

Environmental changes, including intensive international competition, unpredictable consumer demand, and market trends of variety and short product life cycles, compel the U.S. textile and apparel industry to focus increasingly on the consumer as a way to meet these challenges. Quick response has established new business strategies, new relationships and new procedures to speed the flow of information and merchandise between retailers and manufacturers of apparel and , all driven by the customer. With such a customer responsive system in place, the industry began expanding into mass customization. Mass customization uses information technology, flexible processes, and organizational structures to deliver a wide range of products and services that meet specific needs of individual customers but on a mass scale. This paper examines Quick Response and mass customization manufacturing strategies used in the textile and apparel industry, examines how existing technologies can support these strategies, and investigates how mass customization can be undertaken through e-commerce.

Keywords: Mass customization, Manufacturing systems, E-commerce, CAD/CAM system

1. INTRODUCTION supplied in the domestic market. Considering this situation, competitiveness The rapidly changing culture, politics in cost and quality continue to be key issues and economics of modern life deeply affect for textile manufacturers. In order to the industrial environment, especially significantly reduce time and cost in the consumer industries such as textiles and supply chain, the industry needed to become (Lowson, King & Hunter 1999). more focused on consumers by developing a One of the impacts is that the contemporary supply chain management process that North American and European textile and would be demand driven and production that apparel industries suffer immense would be synchronized to replenish product competition from foreign producers (Yan & at the consumer's pull rate (Lovejoy 2001). Fiorito 2002). As early as the mid-1980s, Today, consumers desire to personalize the imports were estimated to account for close style, fit and color of the clothes they buy, to 50% of consumption (Lowson, King & and require high-quality customized Hunter 1999). As most imported textiles are products at low prices with faster delivery produced with very low labor expense, huge (Lee & Chen 1999). New manufacturing amounts of inexpensive products can be technologies such as 3D body scanners, Article Designation: Scholarly 1 JTATM Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005 CAD/CAM systems, and digital textile inventory time can be explained by the fact printers have played a key role in increasing that, throughout the pipeline, products are the effectiveness, flexibility, agility, and held by a supplier as finished goods, and precision of production. additional stocks are held by the customer as raw material. Thus, there are duplications of New business strategies were stockholding between various processing introduced to increase competitiveness in steps, reflecting the lack of communication the industry. One of those strategies, Quick between the supply channel segments. The Response (QR), was formulated as an stockholding cost and the time delays in the improved way of conducting business in the system cause a substantial competitive US textile /apparel pipeline by the American disadvantage in many markets. Hunter, King Apparel Manufacturers Association & Lowson (2002) showed the revenue losses (AAMA). It can be defined shortly as “a expressed as a percentage of sales. The comprehensive business strategy biggest item of lost associated revenue was incorporating time-based competition, forced markdown, with the total losses agility, and partnering to optimize the amounting to over 14 % of retail sales. supply system, and service to customers” Stockouts account for another 4.0% and (ITAI News 1997). QR required a drastic inventory 6.4%. To reduce unnecessary reduction in the time taken to convert markdowns, one solution is compression of to fabric, fabric to garment and then to the pipeline. Pipeline compression makes it deliver the garment to the customer. Such a possible for retailers to reassess the demand reduction called for the use of a wide variety while the season is under way, make small of electronic and mechanical technologies, and frequent re-orders, and feed more the integration of manufacturing accurate information about customer wants technologies, changes in management back to the manufacturing process. The QR practices, and a higher level of trust and methodology was founded as a way to cooperation between industry segments. address the various pressures upon the This paper examines Quick Response and industry (Hunter, King & Lowson 2002). Mass Customization manufacturing strategies used in the textile and apparel 2.2 QR Strategy and advantages industry, evaluates how existing technologies can support these strategies, Traditionally, orders for products are and examines specific applications through made four, six or eight months in advance, case studies. based on forecasts in terms of volume, product mix and so on. That means the 2. MANAGEMENT STRATEGIES – probability that these forecasts effectively Quick Response reflect the reality is very low. It is impossible to satisfy the expectations of the 2. 1 Background final customer completely with advance orders of six months or more. Therefore, it is Throughout the 1970s, the industry was necessary to keep high cost inventory. characterized by an emphasis on mass- markets and high volume manufacture of a The fundamental principle of QR is that slowly changing range of garments with low all activities within an enter prise should be design content. In the mass production paced to demand and customer behavior. system, all input and output are standardized Products and services are produced and to reduce defects, and variety of the product delivered according to the variety and is minimized (Lowson, King & Hunter volume of demand. Consequently, it is 1999). In 1984, a study conducted to analyze important to understand these demand the textile and in the U.S., patterns. QR is a time-based competitive showed 55 weeks of inventory time within strategy which focuses on the compression the 66 weeks supply pipeline (Hunter, King of response time, and which emphasizes & Lowson 2002). This high level of collaboration between all the business

Article Designation: Scholarly 2 JTATM Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005 partners from the textile producer to the forecasts and pre-season orders with the final customer. actual consumer preferences as reflected in their purchases. Accurate data acquisition is The strategic advantages of the important, and analyses of PoS data must application of QR are numerous. First, the occur frequently (Hunter, King & Lowson risk caused by incorrect forecasts can be 2002). Use of POS data can help retailers reduced due to decision making closer to the and manufacturers through building more season. A substantial reduction in sales accurate item inventory and sales records, forecast error can be made by shortening the reducing or eliminating out-of-stocks design process. The fewer months ahead of through improved order planning, reducing the season that style and color predictions forced markdowns via better reorder are made, the less the forecast error (Hunter, management, reducing the need for stock King & Lowson 2002). If the product design counts, and helping assure that the right times were reduced, demand and customer goods can be provided to the customer in the preference could be predicted more right place. accurately. Second, adoption of QR makes it possible to improve the level of service by One problem with using UPC coding is satisfying the variety of customer that global standards do not comply with the expectations and preferences with maximum NRF size and color standard reference table efficiency in terms of elimination of risk, (Hunter & Valentino 1995). Data waste, and cost. A study of the advantages compatibility standards among countries of QR systems between textile producers, need to be established to create a Quick clothing manufacturing, and distribution Response environment that supports co- showed that sales increased up to 50 percent, ordinated global demand-activated and stockholding dropped between 20 and manufacturing responses (Hunter, King & 40 percent (Forza & Vinelli 1997). Lowson 2002).

2.3 Technologies to support QR Radio Frequency Identification, or RFID, is an emerging technology which can QR includes the use of bar codes on substitute for a barcode with some merchandise and shipping cartons, the use of advantages. RFID technology has microchip computer-aided design and manufacturing tags that carry data such as manufacturer ID, systems, the receiving and sharing of SKU, and an item unique code (Chandary product information, and the sending of 2005). This system can protect designer orders and other forms electronically. originals efficiently, prevent counterfeiting, monitor work-in-process, expedite 2.3.1 Bar Coding international processing, manage inventory, out-of-stocks and markdowns, conduct For a global, consumer-driven, Point of quick -outs, and facilitate convenient Sale (PoS) system, standards for bar coding returns in retail (Hartenstine 2004). As of have been developed in the U.S. and Canada January 2005, Wal-Mart and Target both by the Voluntary Industry Communication required that their 100 largest suppliers, Committee, and published by the including some apparel suppliers, label Code Council as the Data Communication cartons with RFID tags (Chandary 2005), so Guidelines for Retail and General the technology is making inroads. Merchandise. A bar code is one unique 12- digit number represented by a Universal 2.3.2 Computer-Aided Design Product Code (UPC), a symbology which (CAD)/Computer-Aided Manufacturing includes the style number, the national retail (CAM) federation (NRF) color number, and the NRF size number (Hunter, King & Lowson Kincade (1998) indicated that 2002). PoS data acquired by scanning bar of production processes using coding, allows comparison of buyer computers was a method for reducing time

Article Designation: Scholarly 3 JTATM Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005 in the pipeline, and achieving shorter lead customization systems can be implemented. time and faster turn around. CAD/CAM Mass customization can be defined as the systems allow a design to be generated ability to provide individually designed rapidly and adjusted equally quickly without products and services to the customers on a diminishing creativity, and provide better mass scale. communication and integration between product development systems (Istook 2000). 3. MASS CUSTOMIZATION - AAMA's Apparel Research Committee TEXTILE APARREL INDUSTRY (ARC) developed standards for apparel and sewn products automation to support 3.1 Mass Customization Concepts and efficient communication between the Consumer Demand productio n systems in different companies (Hiegel, 2005). A short-cycle manufacturing environment that is applied to an individual CAD systems are also having an customer’s preference is called the mass important impact on the merchandise customization manufacturing environment planning of the retail buyer. The closer a (Burns & Bryant 2002). Mass customization designer or buyer is to the opening of a uses information technology, flexible season, the greater the accuracy of the processes, and organizational structures to predictions of style demand. The Boston deliver a wide range of products and Consulting Group investigated the services that meet specific needs of relationship between order lead time and individual customers (Silveria, Borenstein & how well the merchandise plan correlates Fogliatto 2001; Radder 1999). Several with actual consumer purchases. Based on researchers described different approaches the six garments investigated, the longer the to customization. Silveria, Borenstein & lead time the greater the error (Hunter Fogliatto (2001) combined these 1990). Though results varied depending on frameworks to eight generic levels of mass the type of merchandise, if the pipeline can customization ranging from pure be compacted sufficiently, the possibility of customization to pure standardization. reorder becomes feasible with lower forecast Silveria’s highest level, design, encompasses error (Hunter 1990; Hunter, King & Lowson collaborative projects, with manufacturing 2002; Lowson, King & Hunter 1999). and delivering of products according to individual customer preference. Fabrication, 2.3.3 Electronic Data Interchange (EDI) the second level, refers to manufacturing of customer-tailored products based on basic One method to enhance the communication predefined designs. Next, assembly deals of information between trading partners is with customization through arranging electronic data interchange (EDI). With EDI modular components into different technology, business data once configurations according to customer orders. communicated by mail or fax can be In the middle three levels, mass transmitted electronically. This system customization is accomplished by adding allows replacing paper documents with custom work or services to standard electronic documents as well as eliminating products, or customized distributing and the time delay associated with using mail packaging of standard products. At the services and paper handling. lowest level of customization, mass customization occurs after delivery by using Quick Response is a pull system based products for different functions or situations. on the flow of timely and accurate (Silveria, Borenstein & Fogliatto 2001). information about consumers’ wants and needs. High process agility, flexibility, and For the manufacturer and retailer, the integration can be achieved through advantages to mass customization include adoption of Quick Response strategies. In reducing large inventories, minimizing such a manufacturing environment, mass returns, reducing distribution costs, building

Article Designation: Scholarly 4 JTATM Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005 strong customer relationships, and cultural ties, and physical characteristics identifying customer preferences. There is demand greater product differentiation, it is limited empirical research on consumer logical that manufacturers or retailers within acceptance of mass customization. Huffman the integrated textile complex may want to and Kahn (1998) evaluated consumer ability consider the mass customization strategy and interest in selecting among extensive (Anderson-Connell, Ulrich, & Brannon product choices. They concluded that 2002). In the mass customization consumers were more satisfied with manufacturing environment, the customer selecting attributes within a choice set than becomes a co-designer, using the firm’s having either extensive or few choices. capability to create an individualized unique Piller and Muller (2004) reviewed the solution. A customized product can satisfy consumer perception of mass customization the consumer’s preference and provide in the industry concluding that differentiation from mass produced import consumers were curious about the goods. Mass customization has expanded customization concept, realized the benefits, greatly with the continued development of and were willing to pay a premium for those electronically linked body measuring, benefits (Piller & Muller 2004). pattern making, single-ply cutting, and production technology (Burns & Bryant For the textile and apparel industry, 2002). mass customization was investigated as a competitive strategy. Anderson-Connell, Three levels of mass customization Ulrich and Brannon (2002) developed a found in the apparel industry are consumer driven model incorporating personalization of the product, technologies such as body scanning, a Smart customization of fit and customization of Card, and computer-driven shopping with design (Burns & Bryant 2000; IT four versions of collaborative customization. Strategies). Each level of mass They found that consumers were interested customization is introduced in the following in the customization of purchase related sections, including the relevant technologies. services including expanded individual search and selection capability. 3.2.1 Personalization

Fiore, Lee, Kunz, and Campbell (2001) Product personalization is an found high interest in mass customization application of Silveria, Borenstein & after describing body scanning and the co- Fogliatto’s (2001) generic level of design process to subjects. Their results “additional custom work”. One example of showed that the level of stimulation with the personalization is to modify a finished types of products, services, and experiences product. For instance, Levi’s San Francisco was positively correlated with desire to retail store offers customizing services such customize products, and that consumers as , laser etching, and fabric preferred to participate in mass ornamentation to purchased items. This customization of products (i.e., , swim appeals to customers by providing wear), and product features (i.e., fit and size) individuality with a minimum of expense rather than color and garment details (Fiore, and waiting time (Burns & Bryant 2002). Lee, Kunz, & Campbell 2001). Also, a set of or customized with the Olympic logo for the 3.2 Mass Customization Implementation Olympic Games is an example of a finished with technologies in Textile and Apparel product which is personalized and produced Industry in bulk (Chenemilla 2001).

Mass customization manufacturing reflects the current market conditions and trends. As consumers with varied lifestyles,

Article Designation: Scholarly 5 JTATM Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005 3.2.2 Fit Customization-3D body scanning a starting point for the development of their system own garments (ExploreCornell 2003).

Fit customization represents a higher 3-D scanning systems and computer level of customization, what Silveria, application makes it possible to demonstrate Borenstein & Fogliatto called “fabrication’. the virtual try-on concept. Before body scan Holusha (1996) reported researchers at data was available, this system was useful [TC]2 said that about 50% of all Americans only for style selection, but body scan data cannot find well fitting clothes in the current merged with scans of garments can show system. 3D body scanning systems how a garment fits. An early version of the provided several approaches to achieving virtual try-on concept is being offered by better customized fit attributes (Xu, Huang Land’s End, Levi Strauss, Lane Bryant and and Chen. 2002). One of the applications of the Wedding Channel via My Virtual Model 3-D body scanning systems in the apparel at www.MVM.com. When body scan data industry is the refinement of standard size are introduced into this process, more systems (Mastnak). Most systems for sizing realistic and accurate virtual images will be ready-to-wear garments have been based on possible. Researchers at Cornell have very limited information. The 3-D body demonstrated how body scan data and 3D scanning data obtained from different virtual representations of garments can be countries or regions can be used as a bank of used in a virtual fitting process (Ashdown & information about current customer sizes. Loker, 2004) The CAESAR (Civilian American and European Surface Anthropometry Resource) A range of scanning technologies are database was designed to provide the most available and in development. The body current measurements of the population scanning system from [TC] 2 uses a white from U.S. and Europe (SAE). The Textile light phase measurement profilometry and Corporation, [TC] (PMP) approach. Four stationary sensors in 2, collected scans of men and women around the scanning booth are used to project a the United States to create a database, called pattern of light on the body. Through the SizeUSA that gives a better understanding projection of light, the sensors are able to of the current human sizes and shapes in capture images from which 3D data points order to develop sizing systems that fit most can be determined. In the laser scanning of the population (ExploreCornell 2003). methods, the scanner projects a line of laser Also, 3-D scanning technology can be light around the body. The laser line is applied to develop apparel industry reflected into cameras located in each of the advanced ready-to wear processes. At the scan heads. Sensors record the deformations retail store, body measurements of the and create a digit ized image of the subject customer could be taken by a 3-D (Istook & Hwang 2001). Compared with the computerized body-imaging system, then physical measurement process, this and a customer could choose from the technology has the potential to obtain an available styles and materials. Garments unlimited number of measurements quickly could be then made to order. This integrated and precisely. Though scanning time varies, process would allow for the communication most body scanners can measure and extract of subjective fit preferences by the customer data within 2 minutes. It is possible to create to augment objective fit data from the a 3-d shape from the measurement scanner. As its most extended purpose, 3-D information. Also, the digital format body scanning technology can facilitate the measurements can be transferred into achievement of full customized garment apparel CAD systems without the human manufacturing. In this scenario, a customer intervention that takes additional time and is scanned and then either designs a custom can introduce errors (Istook & Hwang garment from simple template designs or 2001). However, Simmons & Istook (2003) chooses a variety of prototype collections as found that there is significant variance among the available scanners regarding how

Article Designation: Scholarly 6 JTATM Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005 each captures specific body measurements. body scan data (TPC Limited 2002). In addition, there are no standards on the Wentzel (2005) explained that from body interpretation of measurements or scan data, a 3D virtual body is created, the measurement terms. The lack of standard measurements for the construction of a format means that no commercially garment are extracted, and then 3D pattern available CAD/CAM system or constructions are automatically converted measurement extraction algorithmic process into 2D pattern blocks. The garment shape is which can be integrated with the body scan displayed on the figure and simultaneously data exists (Istook, Little, Hong & May- on a flat pattern representation (Wentzel Plumlee 2003). Thus, for global production 2005; TPC Limited 2002). Also, [TC]2 has practices and efficient mass customization in developed a 3D to 2D data conversion CAD the apparel industry, new standards of system where the shape of the 3D body measurement, terminology and compatibility surface remains inherent within the 2D of measurements need to be established for pattern, enabling accurate reconstruction of 3-D body scanning systems. the garment surface in a quantifiable relationship to the 3D body surface (Munro 3.2.3 Design Customization-CAD/CAM 2001). system In upholstery manufacturing, 3D to 2D Design customization may reflect conversion systems makes it possible to Silveria, Borenstein & Fogliatto’s produce 2D pattern pieces directly from a “assembly” or “fabrication” levels 3D design virtual model without full size depending on the approach. Computer- physical prototypes. These systems decrease aided-design (CAD) and computer-aided- development time and cost dramatically and manufacturing (CAM) systems create the increase speed to market. Gerber, Lectra and opportunity for customization as they allow Optitex offer 3D to 2D systems, which are designs to be adapted and changed successfully used in transportation seating throughout the design and production manufacture (Anonymous 2005). process. They have been instrumental in Shoemaster is a 3D CAD/CAM system for reducing lead times, improving accuracy, the shoemaking industry (CMS International and putting apparel products in retail stores Lit. 2004). Using this software, styles much closer to the time they are needed by can be created and viewed in 3D on a virtual the consumer. The basic functions of CAD last. Then, the integrated flattening system systems include pattern manipulation, can translate the 3D last to 2D pattern generation of an entire range of sizes . The last making, pattern following ‘grade rules’, and marker making engineering, and grading in a virtual to develop the most economic cutting environment can reduce the costs associated arrangement for patterns (Balasubramanian with rework, and maximize the productivity & Vijay 2000; Russell 1997). CAD vendors and efficiency of the design and in the textile products industry have recently development process. focused on the conversion between 3-D and 2-D. This technology allows reducing CAD vendors have tried to integrate product approval and production times, and CAD/CAM systems with 3D body scanners, cost of producing multiple iterations of 2D pattern creation, marker making, and sample garments, by enabling the entire automated cutting as well as textile CAD. supply chain to visualize products virtually Most recently, Gerber Technology added a (Gerber Technology, Inc. 2004). This fabric testing kit that will enable a user to concept has been adapted into textile test the mechanical properties of fabrics and products such as apparel, furniture, use that data to simulate the draping of automotive car seats and . garments based on the fabric properties (Gerber Technology, Inc. 2005). Hong Kong’s TPC has introduced methods to generate a 2D pattern from 3D

Article Designation: Scholarly 7 JTATM Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005 Even though CAD technology has (PDM) software that allows organizing and shown tremendous possibilities in enhancing communicating product specifications both product development and production process within a and globally. Faster access integration for the textile products industry, to documents makes it possible to quickly the reproduction of accurate color in CAD locate and share information, and speed up systems is still challenging. Color is a prime design development and modification attractor for consumers, and even slight (Russell 1997). For example, in Gerber differences in shade or depth can be Technology WebPDM, product important within a color group. development tasks including design, Additionally, color preferences change engineering, costing and manufacturing rapidly. A simple software should be planning are connected through a centralized developed which would allow discussion database supporting instantaneous and modification of colors between collaboration anywhere in the world (Gerber computer users. As an adjunct to a Technology Inc. 2004). CAD/CAM system, such software would allow customers to input their views on In the textile and apparel industry, B2C color. There remain problems of color E-commerce faced some difficulties in perception between a CRT monitor and the communicating product characteristics such actual good. However, much progress has as color, touch, feel, or garment fit, and been made toward improving the defining return policies can be challenging. differences. These may be reasons that B2C E-commerce is relatively slower growing than B2B E- 3.2.4 E-Commerce for Mass commerce (Ross 2001). Kamali & Loker Cus tomization examined consumer satisfaction and preference for design involvement in a Web- The growth and wide acceptance of the based mass customization process. Their Internet has developed a technological results suggested high consumer satisfaction environment which can support the with the process as well as very high levels integration of computing resources in of intent to purchase the products they business and manufacturing (Ghiaassi & designed. Acceptance and willingness to pay Spera 2003). Internet and Intranet more for mass customized consumer technologies can enhance co-operation and products are dependent on the product types. interaction within the supply chain, and Therefore, it is important to evaluate which allow companies to build affordable links product types are likely to be worth more to directly with customers and suppliers (Daly the consumer if customized (Kamali & & Bruce 2002). Core activities such as Loker 2002). Recently, opportunities for design, resource planning, factory customer involvement in customizing automation, and supply chain management product have expanded from catalog-like can be re-engineered to utilize E-commerce, presentations to interactive offerings achieving significant cost savings and (Yamada 2001). Interactive sites offer reduction in lead time (Helander & Jiao customers design involvement through 2002). E-commerce can be divided into four selection of design features, color, or fabrics categories: business to business (B2B), (Target Corp.; IC3D.com). As shown business to consumer (B2C), business to previously, a 3-D virtual model can be administration, and consumer to adapted to resemble a customer’s body administration, the latter two not yet being shape and then dressed with clothing of used broadly (Turowski 2002). interest to that customer. This technology will reduce the risk of ill-fit by providing B2B E-commerce concerns all consumers with a view of the garment on transactions among retailers, manufacturers, their body. Additionally, ‘Zoom’ and suppliers, which can be improved by functionality will allow for close-up EDI. Software vendors have developed web- visualization of fabric and , and color based Product Document Management management systems will dramatically

Article Designation: Scholarly 8 JTATM Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005 improve the accuracy of color rendering on customization application in textile and different monitors (Ross 2001). E-marketers apparel industry. These case studies were can offer enhanced services such as the compiled by visiting each website and opportunity to return web-purchased documenting step by step the process products to a retail locatio n or to view of encountered. Each application offered a actual fabric and garment at retail to entice different level of customization. customers (Kamali & Loker 2002; Ross 2001). 3.2.5.1 Target Corporation (www.target.com) 3.2.5 Case studies: Mass Customization in the Textile and Apparel Industry Target is one of the retail companies to provide an online custom-made clothing Levi Strauss & Co. was the first large service for women and men. In their apparel company to offer mass website, a customer can easily move to the customization through jeans, offering ‘Target to a “T”’ site in order to access the choices in style, fabric, finish, color, and custom-made clothing options. Figure 1 inseam length. Jeans fit is determined by show s the process of a creating a customized inputting the individual’s measurements, garment through the Internet. Currently, acquired manually by a salesperson, and Target offers four women’s jean, women’s preferences into a computer program then chinos, men’s chinos, and men’s for having the customer try on sample jeans. customization. If a customer visits the site to The customized jeans are individually reorder a garment, previously saved ‘Target manufactured and shipped to the customer's to a “T”’ information can be accessed by home, and a record is kept, so that reorders signing into the account and used or revised can be made without the try-on step for a new order. Customers can customize (ExploreCornell 2003). Brooks Brothers fabric, style, and fit of the available also offers a mass customization system at products. Production and delivery takes their New York City retail store, integrated about three to four weeks, providing a with new technologies including a 3D body customized women’s jean for a cost of about scanner to collect customer measurements. $37 and customized men’s for a cost of Style, fabrics, and design features are about $45. selected from a computer screen in consultation with a trained sales professional Design customization: Fabric who facilitates the discussion of fit preferences. Brooks Brothers uses a Through the “Target to a “T”’ site, proprietary custom patternmaking system to customers can select a fabric design and a create an individual pattern based on body color from photographic quality sample measurements. The custom garment is swatch images enlargeable to show detail. manufactured and shipped to the store where Depending on the type of garment, the a single fitting ensures customer satisfaction. number of choices varies. For example, Scan data and patterns for each customer are women’s jeans are available in three colors, stored for reorders. A traditional custom while men’s shirts have eight fabric can take more than 6-8 weeks, but the combinations. Men’s shirts are offered in Brooks Brothers System can deliver a 100% fabrics which are treated to custom garment in less than 3 business resist stains and wrinkles with comfort and weeks (ExploreCornell; Brook Brothers’ breathability. Inc.). Design customization: Style Custom-made clothing is now attainable and affordable, made possible by Target’s custom-clothing service offers the Internet and changes in traditional photographs of actual design choices to aid manufacturing techniques (Oh, et al. 2004). customer selection. The photograph changes Following are case studies of online mass instantly by clicking one of the design Article Designation: Scholarly 9 JTATM Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005 options, so that customers can compare · Three variations of location on body among the options easily. For women’s jean, in relation to the waist, for example, a customer can choose design · Presence of back pockets or a coin features including: pocket, and · Three variations of closeness of fit · Three variations of cut of jeans through the hip and thigh, through the leg.

Figure 1 Flow chart of Target Corp. Custom-Clothing Service Process

Target to a “T”’

No Create a new garment? Access Yes and Selection of type of garment update previous data Women’s jeans Men’s shirts Selection of Color Selection of Color

Features (style) Features (style) 1. Fit 1. Collar 2. Rise 2. Sleeve style 3. Back Pockets 3. Pocket 4. Coin Pocket 4. Back Pleat 5. Leg style 5. Monogram (style)

Fit information Fit information

1. Size inputs 1. Size inputs 2. Shape selection 2. Fit preference 3. Shape selection

Quantity decision Quantity decision

Order confirmation

Article Designation: Scholarly 10 JTATM Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005 Men’s custom shirts provide even more vary. (Lands’ End 2005) Price points for the detailed style choices including collar Lands’ End products are higher than those variations, sleeve variations, pocket offered via the Target web site, ranging from variations, and two options for back pleat $75 to $99. Customers can request a free location. Also, the shirt may be personalized swatch of fabric for selected items including by specifying a monogram of up to three men’s and women’s jean and women’s letters as well as its position and style. chino pants. Physical fabric swatches can give tactile information for the final product. Fit customization Lands’ End uses real-time communication to help online shoppers find what they are For the best possible fit, customers looking for (Dukcevich, 2002; Wong & input relevant size information including Wolverton 2000; Ives, 2003) by providing height, weight, band size, bra cup size, access to instant support where questions are waist, inseam, and pants size of ready-to- answered promptly and courteously. Also, wear as well as answer some questions customers can modify the fit or features by about life style, such as exercise habits. accessing their account through the website, Also, customers describe the shapes of their and then reordering the item. To offer stomach, seat, and thighs by selecting one of customization, Lands’ End uses CAD several choices presented in line drawings. systems to create electronic patterns, a For men’s shirts, there are some additional single ply cutter for cutting an individual options to specify a customer’s preferred fit. garment, and has worked with global For example, a customer can identify the manufacturing partners on training and preferred fit around the chest, shoulders, and obtaining new machinery (Ives, 2003). the upper arms, and the arm shape, chest shape, and body proportions can be selected 3.2.5.3 Horchow Custom Collection from line drawings. (www.Horchow.com)

Though online customization is more In addition to garments, other convenient than in-store customization, it is customized products are becoming more possible for customers to make errors estimating fit. Target uses sizing software Figure 2 Flow chart of Custom Collection from Archetype Solutions, Inc. to calculate Service for chairs the ideal fit (Scardino, 2004; Anonymous, 2003). In addition, Target will try to contact E-Shop a customer by e-mail for clarification if a body proportion specification isn’t suitable to the fit request.

Custom Chairs 3.2.5.2 Lands’ End

Lands’ End Inc. first offered customers the ability to customize apparel through the Selection of website in 1999 (Ives, 2003), then expanded style of chair the service from men’s chinos to men’s and women’s jeans, men’s shirts and , and wom en’s chinos, , and outerwear. The basic process of creating custom-made Selection of clothing, including fabric and color upholstery customization, style customization, and fit customization, is similar to the Target system. Lands’ End offers more diverse Order fabrics for each garment, and depending on the fabric selection, the available colors Article Designation: Scholarly 11 JTATM Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005 readily available. Horchow Collection is the 2004) and availability of fabric swatches first luxury mail-order catalog retail attempts to address such concerns. company for home furnishing. It offers the newest Horchow Custom Collection service 3.2.6 Case Study Learnings through the web site. Customers can choose to custom upholster frames by selecting a On-line offering of mass customized fabric swatch in the website, and can see products seems to be a growing trend in the immediately what the frame will look like in industry. Internet availability of mass the chosen fabric. customized products offers great advantages to consumers in terms of convenience and Style customization accessibility. Based on the case studies combined with literature review, some At the Horchow website, three conclusions can be reached regarding categories of custom products are available, effectiveness of on-line customization. First, chairs, sofas, and specialty furniture such as easy navigation of the web site is important. ottomans, and pillows. Figure 2 provides a To provide quality information, customers flow chart of the custom chair service must understand what they are being asked process. For each product category, several and how to progress through the choices product styles are available for selection. provided. Second, quality visual stimulation When visiting the site, a customer first is required. The vendors studied used chooses one style. All specifications for the photographs of actual products and product product, including size, material contents, details to represent available choices. Also, and frame, are described. An ‘enlarge’ if the customized product can be presented option gives the detail for a product and the to the customer visually, it helps in ‘customize’ option allows customers to understanding exactly how the finished customize the item with their choice of product will look. Third, enhanced customer materials. services, such as retaining records for reorder and allowing for product Design customization modification following the order, appeal to the customer. Finally, for textiles, providing Over 30 materials including leather, an opportunity for the customer to premium fabrics, and standard fabrics are experience the fabric through a swatch can available. Images of an upholstered item as alleviate concerns about the hand of the well as fabric swatch images are offered for fabric. each choice. When the customer chooses a preferred fabric, both product and swatch Some distinct challenges remain with images are modified to show the product in interactive mass customization systems for the new fabric. Customers can receive a free textile products. Though photographic swatch for a fabric they considering, stimuli are helpful for visualization, the providing them the chance to get tactile ability to examine a product virtually in 3D information for the final product. The would facilitate comfort level with the expected shipping date is no longer than two purchase decision. Turn around time for months after an order is confirmed. customized product remains substantially longer than required for delivery of standard E-commerce in home furnishings hasn’t products, many customers do not want to appealed to customers in the past because wait. Virtual reality technology may physical comfort and tactile elements are eventually be able to address the concerns critical for the buying decisions. However, related to visualization and the tactile CAD technologies and virtual reality experience of fabric (Oh, Yoon and Hawley applications expand the possibilities for E- 2004) eliminating delays associated with commerce for U.S. furniture industry, providing swatches on order. For apparel, fit (Anonymous, 2005; Oh, Yoon & Hawley will continue to be a challenge particularly when provided by the customer and based Article Designation: Scholarly 12 JTATM Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005 on manual measurement techniques. Finally, 2005). An important component of digital management and reproduction of color is a color management throughout the process remains an issue. system, which provides a key competitive Color issues become an even greater advantage for developing colors and quickly concern at the highest levels of mass communicating them along the global customization. supply chain. Basically, because a monitor and a printer reproduce colors with different 3.2.7 Digital Printing for customization color systems, the calibration of each device and the development of a profile for each are Achieving Silveria, Borenstein & required to obtain consistent resulting Fogliatto’s (2001) highest level of mass colors. In , many customization, “design”, requires integration variables can affect the resulting color, of technology. Apparel textiles including the combination of ink and account for around 60-65 % of all fabric substrate, the conditions of pre- and post- printing applications, or some 18 billion m2 treatment, and the type of substrate. per annum worldwide (Byrne, 2003). The Therefore, the establishment of standards for conventional printing process using rotary digital textile printing will be required for screen technology has been based on the improved color consistency in a production mass-production system. For the next line. season, the color and style forecast for a new product are offered and the customer Textile CAD systems play a key role in demand is predicted according to the digital textile printing systems, as well as in previous sales record. To reduce the risk of conventional printing, for reduction of stock-outs, large amounts of inventory are design processing time and quick inevitable. In terms of manufacturing modification. Textile CAD systems have process, the conventional screen printing capabilities including color separation, system requires a long lead time of weeks or repeat generation, creation of color ways, months for a new print design, and involves and texture mapping. A recent innovation, extreme cost to develop printing rollers. Lectra offers an option that allows the Whether the design was put into production digital printer to print the garment pieces or not, it cost almost $30,000 to set up with the right color and position of the (Istook 2000). Therefore, conventional motif. This option includes a dimensional screen printing limited the possibility for calibration tool to account for the shrinkage providing a wide range of color-ways or of the textile after wet- (Lectra individual garments for mass customization. 2005).

New digital textile printing technology In mass customization, there needs to has had a significant impact on the industry. be an integrated solution involving a With digital printing, consumer preferences sequence of operations including pre- can affect the product directly, and various treating, printing, post-treating, cutting, and products with diverse color combinations . Rimslow Pty. Ltd (Rimslow Pty. and styles can be printed with optimized Ltd. 2004), a textile machinery company, fabric usage. Other advantages include: a makes an integrated manufacturing virtually limitless number of colors, a rapid environment possible by offering a steamer change-over of design and colorways with a that can be synchronized with the printing of minimum loss of cloth and no waste paste. an inkjet printer. The post treatment steaming process for digitally printed fabric Lectra of France developed a system is important to fix dye onto the substrate and that makes it possible to rapidly produce a to obtain better color yield. Rimslow’s wide range of innovative designs and colors steamer automatically feeds fabric into the on a variety of fabrics, while providing inkjet printer, through its built-in steam consistency within the supply chain, from curer, then out of the unit and where is initial design to finished product (Lectra automatically rolled. They also offer an Article Designation: Scholarly 13 JTATM Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005 integratable unit incorporating washing and product variety and flexibility, and quality coating machines developed for inkjet fabric improvement. For effective information printing (Rimslow Pty. Ltd. 2004). The flow, collaboration and communication integrated automatic system would make it between segments of the supply chain are possible to obtain and control consistent significant. Business conducted through output efficiently, and would enable printing internet via E-commerce, will be of single products. increasingly viable in the future, while web application of mass customization and QR In 1990, Seiren completed an integrated strategies will enable delivery of unique digital inkjet printing system (Yuikawa products from anywhere in the world, at 2001). Conventional printing systems can anytime. Figur e 3 shows a potential future create a maximum of 20 colors with limited workflow for repeat size, and lot size of at least 2,000m. delivering mass customized product. But, Seiren’s system can develop 16.7 million colors with almost no limitation in For successful achievement of the design, and lot size as small as 1 meter integrated system shown, the establishment (Rudie 1998). One of the major swim wear of standards must become a priority. Among makers in Japan used the system in manufacturers or countries, compatible data combination with point-of-sale data analysis standards are critical for prompt information and reduced unsold stock from 27% to 5% exchange in barcodes and EDI systems. The of the total production, and increased sales lack of standards can disconnect an efficient to 150% (Yuikawa 2001). flow between CAD/CAM systems, and cause time delays and inaccurate data 4. CONCLUSIONS transformation. For example, standards of measurement, terminology and compatibility Mass customization and quick response of measurements in 3D body scanning are management strategies facilitate responding critical for global production practices and to customer’s requests and preferences efficient fit customization. The reproduction promptly. Trends of integration and of accurate color in E-commerce is networking in CAD/CAM systems support significant to maintain high quality of these strategies by enabling the automatic product and reliable production information. transfer and feedback of manufacturing Thus, an integrated color management information. New manufacturing system with standard color specification technologies including 3D body scanners, must be adapted to the entire management CAD/CAM systems, digital printing system. Also, it remains challenging to systems, and information technology using obtain consistent color reproduction within a barcodes or RFID also support these system. In the future, research focused on strategies and bring advantages such as the improving these problems would enhance reduction in time and labor, increase in viability of mass customization. reliability and precision, improvement in

Article Designation: Scholarly 14 JTATM Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005 Figure 3 Possible Textile manufacturing workflow

Article Designation: Scholarly 15 JTATM Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005 5. REFERENCES Byrne, C. (2003). Textile ink jet printing- market information, potential outlets and American Apparel Manufacturers trends, SDC Technical monograph - textile Association, (1987). Getting started in quick ink jet printing, pp.30-37, England: Society response: a reference book for apparel of Dyers and Colorists. Edited by Dawson, manufacturers, AAMA/Bobbin Show, T L and Glover, B. Arlington, VA. Chandary, P. (2005). What is RFID? , Anderson-Connell, L., Ulrich, P. and Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology Brannon, E. (2002). A consumer-driven and Management, 4(3), Retrieved August model for mass customization in the apparel 18, 2005, from market, Journal of Marketing and http://www.techexchange.com/thelibrary/rfi Management, vol.6, no.3, pp. 240-258. d.html

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Article Designation: Scholarly 16 JTATM Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005 Forza, C. and Vinelli, A. (1997). Quick Huffman, C. and Kahn, B. (1998). Variety response in the textile-apparel industry and for sale: mass customization or mass the support of information technologies, confusion?, Journal of Retailing, vol.74. Integrated Manufacturing Systems, vol.8, no.4, pp.491-513. no.3, pp.125-136. Hunter, A. (1990). Quick response in Gerber Technology, Inc. (2005, April). apparel manufacturing, The Textile Gerber Technology Launches WebPDM 5.0, Institute, UK. J.S.N. International, pp.16-17. Hunter, A., King, R., and Lowson, R.H. Gerber Technology, Inc. (2004, January). (2002). The textile/clothing pipeline and Gerber Technology’s Latest CAD/CAM , quick response management. The Textile J.S.N. International, Issue 1, pp.18-27. Institute, UK.

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Article Designation: Scholarly 17 JTATM Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005 Ives, B. (2003, January). Custom made Mastnak, R., 3-D Scanning and the apparel apparel and individualized service at Lands’ industry in North America-a new business End, Communications of the Association for paradigm, Retrieved August 10, 2005, from Information System, vol.11, no.3, Retrieve http://www.techexchange.com/thelibrary/3- September 19, 2005 from dScanning.html http://cais.isworld.org/articles/11- 3/article.pdf Munro, K. (2001). Direct pattern generation 3D to 2D unwrapping from body scan data, Kamali, N. and Loker S. (2002). Mass Proceeding of AATCC, pp.9-13. customization: on-line consumer involvement in product design, Journal of Oh, H., Yoon, S., and Hawley, J. (2004, Computer Mediated Communication, vol.7, summer). What virtual reality can offer to no.4, Retrieved September 9, 2005 from the furniture industry, Journal of Textile and http://www.jcmc.indiana.edu/vol7/issue4/lo Apparel, Technology and Management, ker.html vol.4, no.1, Retrieved September 18, 2005 from Kincade, D. (1998). A morphology of quick http://www.tx.ncsu.edu/jtatm/volume4issue1 response strategies for the apparel industry, /articles/Oh/oh_full_98_04.pdf Doctoral Dissertation, University of North Carolina, Greensboro, NC. Pine, J. (1993). Mass customizing products and services, Planning Review, vol.22, no.4, Lands' End, (2005). Retrieved September pp. 6-13. 24, 2005 from http://www.landsend.com/cd/index/fp/0,,411 Radder, L. and Louw, L. (1999). Mass 77,00.html?cm_re=1*right*all&sid=826211 customization and mass production, The 3587998126800 TQM Magazine, vol.1, no.11, pp.35-40.

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Article Designation: Scholarly 18 JTATM Volume 4, Issue 4,Summer 2005 Scardino, E. (2004, October). Target prepares to bring custom-made to the Wong, W. and Wolverton, T. (2000, April masses, DSN Retailing Today, vol.43, 6). Instant messaging latest trend in E- no.19, pp.43, 50. commerce software, CNET News, Retrieved September, 17, 2005, from Simmons, K and Istook, C. (2003). Body http://news.com.com/2100-1017- measurement techniques: comparing 3D 238944.html?legacy=cnet body-scanning and anthropometric methods for apparel applications, Journal of Fashion Xu, B. Huang, W. and Chen, T. (2002 Marketing and Management, vol.7, no.3, Spring). Body scanning and modeling for pp.306-332. custom fit garments, Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, Silveira, G., Borenstein, D., and Fogliatto, F. vol.2, no.2, Retrieved August 9, 2005 from (2001). Mass customization: literature http://www.tx.ncsu.edu/jtatm/volume2issue2 review and research directions, International /articles/xu/xu_full.pdf Journal of Production Economics, vol.72, pp.1-13. Yan, H. and Fiorito, S. (2002). Communication: CAD/CAM adoption in Target Corpor ation, Retrieved September, U.S. textile and apparel industries, 17, 2005, from http://custom.target.com/cgi- International Journal of Clothing Science bin/custom.pl and Technology, vol.14, no.2, pp.132-140.

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