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ne special location which there was no way to keep your writing has excited the smallest neat.” He went to school in Lübeck visitors to the Christmas from Grade 4 onwards but only from Hanse hands-on markets for generations, November to March when the family Ois the Fairytale Forest at the foot of set up its winter camp on Volksfest- Hanse hands-on St. Mary’s church. It first opened its platz. Otherwise, this family of travel- doors in 1962 and since then it has put ling show artists moved from funfair a smile on children’s faces every year to funfair right across the country, and at Christmas time. The fairytale mo- little Peter went to a different school tifs originally served as shop-window every week with the other travelling decorations for the Karstadt depart- show children. It didn’t do him any ment store almost 60 years ago befo- harm, “I always had lots of friends”, sold to Denmark, Peter Belli took over the chairmanship of the association and bought up the fairytale figures and their berths at a stroke. “The Fairytale Forest is quite simply part of Lübeck, Impressive exhibits otherwise there’s something missing Peter Belli in the Christmas market”, he states in Impressive exhibits re they were moved to the St. Mary’s the 56-year-old happily recalls, but justification of his commitment which churchyard as a pre-Christmas attrac- when it came to his two daughters and continues to this day. “It’s simply a part tion for families with children. The his grandchildren, he always set great of our childhood – not just for me but cherished tradition of the Fairytale store by a permanent school and good for generations of Lübeck residents.” Forest now includes 23 ‘berths’ whe- training. He would have liked best of re the finest fairytale figures of the all to be a car mechanic but the family The association is regularly depen- Brothers Grimm and others can be business was more important, and so dent on donations in order to fund found – from King Thrushbeard and Peter Belli learned all the manual skills the restoration of the mobile fairytale Cinderella, via Hansel and Gretel and from his father and in the end took figures and their wooden berths and to the Sleeping Beauty to Pippi Longsto- over his parent’s business. “There’s construct new ones year for year. Bro- cking, Jim Button and Max and Mo- nothing a travelling show worker can’t ckensammlung Lübeck, for example, ritz. turn his hand to”, he explains with a recently adopted Mrs. Holle and Pippi grin. “And if there’s something he can’t Longstocking. “Without our suppor- y One person who has been there from do, he keeps trying until he can.” No ters and sponsors, the Fairytale Forest Open dail the beginning and who is particularly sooner said than done ‒ and so this would not be able to survive”, says Pe- fromOpen 10 daily am* from 10 am* y fond of the Fairytale Forest, is travelling likeable travelling show artist with his ter Belli. “I would like to express my Public tours ever show artist Peter Belli who was born in heart in the right place is today a ge- heartfelt thanks for this commitment.” SaturdayTuesdayPublic tours andevery Sunday e 1963. Even as a small boy, he helped his nuine self-made man. Crêpes, fishing His own dedication goes without say- SaturdayTuesday and Sunday parents at their sweet stall in the Fairy- for ducks and pitching at cans make up ing for him even if it takes up a lot of Gastronomy at its best in th tale Forest, was allowed to take care of his business with the addition of doug- his time and work. He takes charge of GastronomyRestaurant atNORD its best and in the Café RestaurantFräulein NORD Brömse and Café the fairytale figures, inspected tickets hnuts and the children’s railway in the almost all the repair work himself, “al- Fräulein Brömse for the children’s merry-go-round with Fairytale Forest. though my wife and some volunteers *except Dec 24. *except Dec 24. his two brothers and did his homework sew the clothes for the dolls, that’s not in the last carriage of the children’s When the Fairytale Forest Association really my bag.” OneOne ofof the the most most important important railway. “I was rocked backwards and ‘Pro Lübeck e.V.’ ran into financial dif- Lübeck’sLübeck’s latest latest museum museum conventsconvents in in northern northern Germany Germany forwards and every time the carriage ficulties at the beginning of 2000 and went over the sleepers, it shook – and there was a threat of the forest being

EuropäischesEuropäisches Hansemuseum Hansemuseum +49+49 (0)451 (0)451 80 9080 9990 099 0 www.hansemuseum.euwww.hansemuseum.eu AnAn derder Untertrave Untertrave 1 1• 23552• 23552 Lübeck Lübeck [email protected]@hansemuseum.eu #hansemuseum#hansemuseum 35 EuropäischesEuropäisches Hansemuseum. Hansemuseum. Fotos: Fotos: Olaf Malzahn,Olaf Malzahn, Werner Werner Huthmacher, Huthmacher, Thomas Thomas Radbruch Radbruch |CONTENT| 4 Lübeck and Travemünde: Lübeck and An overview 6 Two opposites collide Travemünde 10 Lübeck museums The true beauty of things lies in the hidden. It does not want to dazzle with in the portrait sheer scenery, it wants to be explored, it wants to be felt. What is hidden behind brick stones and fine sandy beaches, what makes Lübeck and Travemünde pulsate? This magazine enables a view behind the beautiful face of Lübeck’s 12 Girl power with island-shaped UNESCO Old Town and zooms in on the shiny waves of the a sea view Baltic Sea to our unique seaside resort, which has begun to reinvent itself. And since the pulse of a city is defined by the people who live in it, our stories are 14 Everything flows all about them and their location in Lübeck and Travemünde – two so different places and yet inseparably linked. Welcome to our home town.

16 The ‘completest’ overall work of art Tourist Information Tourist Information 18 Map of Lübeck and Lübeck Travemünde Travemünde

20 The gin man Located directly at the Holsten In Travemünde, our Tourist Infor- Gate, our Tourist Information is mation is located inside the train the ideal starting point for your station ‘Strandbahnhof’. Our team 23 A bed under the Baltic sky discovery tour through Lübeck. is looking forward to your visit.

24 Cut from the right wood Tip: Try the delicious coffee speci- Tip: Enjoy freshly caught fish and alities in our café bar and browse delicious fishrolls in the unique our collection of souvenirs. fishing port. 26 Mermaid meets Neptune Opening hours: 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Opening hours: 10 a.m.–5 p.m. 28 Lively UNESCO World Heritage

33 Christmas city of the For more information: +49 (0) 4 51/ 88 99 700 or visit our websites north www.luebeck-tourism.de or www.travemuende-tourism.de

Imprint Publisher: Lübeck und Travemünde Marketing GmbH, Holstentorplatz 1, 23552 Lübeck Editorial office: Christian Martin Lukas Editorial: Barbara Schwartz, Sandra Werth Text: Mareike Otte, Doris Schütz Translation: Transmit Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG Concept&Design: borowiakziehe KG, www.bozi.de Illustration: Kethariya Krause, borowiakziehe KG Photos: Verena Berg p. 23; Gene Glover p. 16; Olaf Malzahn p. 10; die LÜBECKER MUSEEN p. 11; Oliver Schmidt p. 3; Kai-Hendrik Schroeder cover pictures; Anibal Trejo/Shutterstock.com p. 4; unsplash.com p. 5, p. 14; Ingo Wandmacher p. 6, p. 8., p. 9, p. 12, p. 20, p. 24, p. 25, p. 26, p. 28, p. 30, p. 31, p. 34, p. 35 Reprint, even extracts, is permitted only with explicit approval of the publisher. Date: February 2019. All information is provided without guarantee of completeness or accuracy. No liability for the information in the adverts.

3 |Lübeck|

UNESCO World Heritage Site Lübeck was awarded the proud title in 1987 thanks to the unaltered basic structure of the Old Town consisting mainly of 15th- and 16th-century patrician residences, public monu- ments, brick stone churches and storehouses.

Church diversity The small area of the island-shaped Old Town features a surprisingly large number of churches. Five of them characterise Lübeck’s famous silhouette with their impressive seven spires.

Over 70 enchanting alleys and courtyards The island-shaped Old Town is home to a magical world of twisty alleys and beautiful courtyards. The diversity of these alleys and courtyards in Lübeck is something unique throughout the world.

Three world-famous Nobel Prize laureates Willy Brandt and Thomas Mann were both born in Lübeck, while Günter Grass chose the Hanseatic city as his home. Each of the Nobel Prize laureates has a dedicated museum in Lübeck’s Old Town.

Christmas city of the North Lübeck is a unique Christmas wonderland from the end of November to the end of December. Ten different Christmas worlds invite to visit this exciting land of dreams.

Fair Trade city Lübeck has been a fair trade city since 2012. Many cafés, restaurants, hotels, shops and food producers in particular ensure fair trading. UNESCO World Heritage Site Lübeck was awarded the proud title in 1987 thanks to the unaltered basic structure of the Old Town consisting mainly of 15th- and 16th-century patrician residences, public monu- ments, brick stone churches and storehouses.

Christmas city of the North Lübeck is a unique Christmas wonderland from the end of November to the end of December. Ten different Christmas worlds invite to visit this exciting land of dreams.

Fair Trade city Lübeck has been a fair trade city since 2012. Many cafés, restaurants, hotels, shops and food producers in particular ensure fair trading.

|Travemünde|

Traditional seaside resort Travemünde was appointed a seaside resort in 1802. From then on writers, poets, artists and spa visitors from near and far came to Travemünde for their summer holidays.

Three beaches – three promenades Travemünde offers beaches according to everyone’s taste – be it the wide sandy beach alongside the promenade, a peaceful natural beach on the Priwall peninsula or the wild steep coast of Brodten. Relaxed strolling was invented here – over the imperial beach promenade, the Trave promenade up until the Priwall peninsula.

Sailing competitions from close-up Every year, water sports fans from all over the world travel to Travemünde to experience the unique combination of international sailing and maritime festival at the Travemünde Sailing Week.

Beach chairs for day and night A Baltic Sea holiday without a roofed wicker beach chair would be like sailing without wind. In Travemünde you can even book one of the highly coveted wicker beach chairs for a unique night on the beach.

BeachExperience Pure slow down! Watch the ships on the Baltic Sea with a cocktail in the BeachLounge. Or get active on a sailing boat or a stand up paddling board. In the courtyard of the Günter Grass-House there is always a place to ponder there is always of the Günter Grass-House In the courtyard

6 |Margrit¦Wegner¦&¦ |Jörg-Philpp¦Thomsa|

Two opposites collide On the interaction between church and culture in Lübeck

In the parsonage of Lübeck Cathedral, steaming coffee stands on the dining table and self-picked apples have been prepared. Margrit Wegner, pastor at Lübeck Cathedral, is sitting opposite Jörg-Philipp Thomsa, Head of the Günter Grass-House. Who better to conduct the discussion when the question is: Clerical Lübeck, secular Lübeck, two opposites with nothing to say to each other or which can indeed find a connection?

7 Discover new horizons

Günter Grass-House Writer, graphic artist, painter and sculptor – at the Günter Grass-House literature meets the arts and the museum shows all facets of the world-famous Nobel Prize laureate. Adults: € 7.00 Children: € 2.50 www.grass-haus.de

Museum of Natural History and the Environment This museums gives fascinating insights into the natural history of Schleswig-Holstein. However, it also offers an interesting journey of discovery into the diverse flora and fauna in the Lübeck area. Adults: € 6.00 Children: € 2.00 omestically, the question has long ferring to Stockholm Cathedral in Sweden. www.museum-fuer- since been settled between the Her first post as pastor finally took Margrit natur-und-umwelt.de two interlocutors. They are mar Wegner to the Chapel of St. Jürgen in Lü ried with one child and they blend beck. But how did she come to be the first Guided vault tour at Dwonderfully as a couple and a team although woman to become pastor at Lübeck Cathe St. Mary’s church and their respective professions point in such dif dral in 2010? “Martin Klatt who is now my the Cathedral ferent directions ‒ or not? “We did indeed colleague, encouraged me to apply”, she Accompanied by exciting sto- meet through our work”, says Jörg-Philipp ries and through many steps Thomsa laughing. There was an idea at the there is the history of Lübeck’s churches at a lofty height. time for a discussion group with prison inma tes on the subject of ‛Guilt and Shame’ on “If you’re in Lübeck, The mighty vaulting caps you should drop suddenly seem very close. the basis of the Günter Grass novella ‛Katz und Maus’ (Cat and Mouse). “I wrote an by the Museum for St. Mary’s church: Natural History and Entrance fee: € 7.00 email to the Cathedral parsonage to find out, who I could best turn to in the prison on this the Environment. A Pupils and students: € 3.00 wonderful collection Cathedral: subject, and whether, for example, a prison chaplain would be the right person to cont devoted to natural Guided vault tours only on environments in request act. Margrit replied and we met for lunch.” Both of them had already moved to Lübeck Schleswig-Holstein, Entrance fee per person: its fauna and flora, € 6.00 for groups of 10 or for their jobs although originally they come more persons from different parts of Germany. awaits visitors here. Margrit Wegner was born in Hamburg and The exhibitions Viewing she was aware of her calling from an early are also ideal Platform St. Peter’s age. “My home parish, church music and for families.” From the 50-metre-high (Jörg-Philipp Thomsa) youth work were formative influences on me viewing platform there is an and led to my desire to become a pastor”, unforgettable 360 degree view of Lübeck and the she explains. A degree in theology was fol recalls. “I was very keen on the idea of wor brick churches St. Mary’s, lowed by the post of assistant vicar at Ham king there as I had already fallen in love with St. Jacob’s, St. Giles’, burg’s Michel church and then that of vicar the Cathedral before even moving to Lübeck. St. Catherine’s and in the district of Steilshoop, characterised I was attending a concert at the time and it the Cathedral. by high-rise apartment blocks, before trans was genuinely love at first sight.” Entrance fee: € 4.00 Reduced: € 2.50

8 |Margrit¦Wegner¦&¦ |Jörg-Philpp¦Thomsa| When Margrit Wegner takes up her post at the a children’s festival in collaboration with the Willy- Cathedral, Jörg-Philipp Thomsa is already Head Brandt-House which is very well received, and we of the Günter Grass-House. Born and brought up have the pleasure of greeting around 2,000 visitors”, on the Lower Rhine, he studied German and His Jörg-Philipp Thomsa recounts. “We would like to tory at the University of Duisburg-Essen. He came break down this misguided awe of art and culture”, to Lübeck for the first time in 2005 as a guest and he continues. “For example, when we opened the was immediately fascinated by the town. “I liked the new Günter Grass-House in 2012, Helge Schneider town so much that I returned one year later to serve came as the main act. And in 2019, we also have Jo an internship in the Buddenbrook House ‒ ideal nathan Meese here with an exhibition. Lübeck needs for a Thomas Mann fan like me”, says Thomsa this disruption in its cultural life.” with a grin. And it was here that they met for the Cultural life in Lübeck enjoys an almost symbiotic first time after a reading: Günter Grass and Jörg- relationship with the churches in the Old Town. The Philipp Thomsa. The start of an intensive collabo churches can also be experienced as cultural spaces. ration. Thomsa becomes an academic trainee in the Its cultural heritage represents an obligation as Lü Günter Grass-House and finally its Head in 2009, beck was after all the stage where major composers always with the full support of the man who lent his and organists such as Dietrich Buxtehude plied their name to it and who died in 2015. trade. Even Johann Sebastian Bach followed the call once and came to the Hanseatic town to learn from There they are now, the pastor and the museum the best. So it’s no surprise that Lübeck’s University curator, and the original question about opposites. of Music collaborates with the Old Town churches “There are definitely connecting elements in our and that church music enjoys special status. “Culture work”, Jörg-Philipp Thomsa opines. “It’s a matter of in our churches is sometimes still not fully apprecia great concern to both of us to relate the themes of ted by outsiders”, Jörg-Philipp Thomsa states. “The our ‛bosses’ to today’s times and identify contempo re are so many concerts staged in Lübeck’s churches, rary references. What are the questions that preoccu that is out of the ordinary.” py people today?” For example, religion, finiteness, In this way, clerical and secular institutions join the question of guilt and responsibility ‒ these are hands in Lübeck to shape the future of the town to central, recurring themes in the works of Günter gether, on an equal footing. With God and Grass and Grass. “That gave us the chance to find common new paths of communication ‒ opposites that resolve ways of communication”, Margrit Wegner explains. themselves. “For example, one time we held a joint service with a reading from ‘Cat and Mouse’.” www.grass-haus.de www.dom-zu-luebeck.de Both of them place great emphasis in their work on addressing as wide an audience as possible and also involving the next generation. There are regular ser vices in the Cathedral for children and productions of children’s musicals while the guided tours of the vaults ‒ available on request ‒ are very popular with young and old. “I can get the kids excited especially when I show them the marble angel blowing bub bles. I usually have bubbles with me so the child ren can blow some too. That’s really magical”, the pastor enthuses. Children are also very welcome in the Günter Grass-House. “Every year, we organise

“A time of reflection in the middle of the day – midday prayers shortly after twelve in St. Mary“s church. Good music. Good words. What a blessing! And all free of charge as of course we don’t charge at the door for praying.” (Margrit Wegner)

9 Lübeck museums in the portrait

European Holsten Gate Hansemuseum Lübeck Museum

How did Lübeck become the Lübeck’s famous landmark accom- ‘Queen of the Hanseatic League’? modates the permanent exhibition

European Hansemuseum Who traded which goods with ‘The power of trade’, because trade whom and why? How dangerous ensured Lübeck’s supremacy in the was travelling for the Low German Baltic area during the times of the merchants and how did they live Hanseatic League. Seven rooms in Lübeck? 800 years of Hanseatic show fascinating exhibits and history is presented as a living interactive installations. Historic ship experience here – interactive, models, suits of armour, weapons, scenic and with expressive exhibits. legal instruments and merchandise give a glimpse into times gone by.

Entrance fee: € 13.00 Entrance fee: € 7.00 Children: € 7.50 Children: € 2.50 www.hansemuseum.eu www.museum-holstentor.de

Willy-Brandt-House Buddenbrookhouse

Contemporary history can be Lübeck has dedicated an extraordi- experienced in multimedia and nary literature museum to the novel interactively. From a working-class and the Mann-family. The Budden- boy to famous politician – the exhi- brookhouse, scenery of Thomas bition is dedicated to Willy Brandt’s Mann’s novel ‘Buddenbrooks’ and political life and allows the visitors ancestral home of the Mann-family to explore the historic past in many will be extended by the neighbou- different stagings. Become active ring house from the year 2020 on. yourself and take a seat at the Behind the historic facades, a government bench. In the garden, completely redesigned permanent a piece of the Berlin Wall reminds exhibition will await the visitors on the visitor of Brandt’s time as the 2,500 square metres. mayor of the divided city.

Entrance fee: € 7.00 Admission is free Children: € 2.50 www.willy-brandt.de www.buddenbrookhaus.de

10 Industrial Museum History Museum Quarter Museum of Workshop Herrenwyk St. Anne’s Theatre Puppets

Until the 90s of the 20th century, A view into the World Heritage’s Theatre figures and backdrops, Herrenwyk was a typical working living room – things of everyday life props and posters – the collecti- class district of Lübeck. The and elaborate exhibits tell Lübeck’s on comprises more than 30,000 permanent exhibitions of the cultural stories. St. Anne’s Art Gal- exhibits, some more than three museum show the history of the lery, which presents art produced centuries old, and is considered the blast furnace, the Flender shipyard after 1945, St. Anne’s Museum and largest collection of its kind in the and its workers. the Art café as well as gardens and world. Due to extensive renovation courtyards belong to the Museum work, the building will be closed Quarter St. Anne’s. until the end of 2019. Entrance fee: € 4.00 Children € 2.00 Entrance fee: € 12.00 www.geschichtswerkstatt- Children: € 6.00 herrenwyk.de www.st-annen-museum.de www.theaterfigurenmuseum.de

Museum Behnhouse Drägerhouse

There is a comprehensive picture gallery with works from the 19th century and Classical Modernism in the historic premises of the two 18th Quarter Museum Anne’s St. century town palaces Behnhouse and Drägerhouse. Bourgeois dome- stic culture and bourgeois collecting are impressively combined here.

Entrance fee: € 7.00 Children: € 2.50 www.museum-behnhaus- Further information on the museums can be found at: draegerhaus.de www.luebeck-tourism.de

Lübeck’s long night of Border Documentation St. Catherine’s church open museums Site Lübeck-Schlutup

The present museum church used Museums, galleries and theatres Besides Berlin, Lübeck was the only to be the centre of the Franciscan such as the Brahms Institute, West German city located directly Order in the entire Baltic Sea area. the European Hansemuseum or at the inner-German border. The Built in 1300, the church with its St. Peter’s open their doors each border museum documents the sacral architecture belongs to the year on the last Saturday in August history of the East-West border near most beautiful brick churches of and invite to discover the extraor- Lübeck with a comprehensive col- Lübeck. The southern front side is dinary cultural offers until midnight. lection of uniforms, reports, photo decorated with the Masterpiece Many of them put on special tours documentaries and video films of ‘Raising of Lazarus’ of the Venetian or events just for the occasion. the opening of the border in 1989. painter Jacopo Tintoretto, one of Activities to join in, music and tasty It's also interesting to see simple many breath-taking pieces of art treats – Lübeck has a rich and everyday items such as commu- that found their place in the church diverse cultural scene. nist-era chocolate wrappers and rooms. washing powder boxes.

Entrance fee: € 2.00 Children: € 1.50 Entrance fee: € 3.00 www.museumskirche.de www.die-luebecker-museen.de Children: € 2.00

11 |Dorothee|Gaedeke| Dorothee Gaedeke is the first female boss to rule the roost at Priwall ferries Dorothee Gaedeke is the first female boss to rule roost at Priwall

Girl power with a sea view Germany’s youngest female captain is holding her own as the new boss of the Priwall ferries.

12 “My favourite place in Travemünde is the steep coast of Brodten. I like to take walks here at weekends and he is young, slight and blond I can really relax while doing so – preferably with my and she knows what she wants. fiancé and our dog Momo. Always with a view of the As the youngest female captain sea, of course.” in the German shipping indus (Dorothee Gaedeke) Stry, Dorothee Gaedeke dropped anchor in Travemünde in 2018, swapping ‘her’ coaster ILKA for the Priwall ferries in man’s profession, but the clear hierarchy For Dorothee Gaedeke, the job as ma the seaside resort. The 30-year-old is on board helped to define your position. nager of ferry operations represents a now the first female head of ferry ope Everybody did their job and there was major challenge as she is responsible rations run by Lübeck urban transport, no room for prejudice or macho talk.” for 34 employees ‒ from the ship’s cap and she is mastering her job with convic After only 24 months as a 1st Officer, she tain to the check-out staff ‒ three large tion and professionalism. achieved her goal, and was awarded her car ferries and the two Norder ferries captain’s licence as one of the few wo for foot passengers and cyclists. And of Born in Lübeck, Dorothee Gaedeke men in Germany to hold this qualifica course it also includes the smooth opera inherited her love of the sea from a tion. Respect! tion of ferry traffic to Priwall and back. young age. Even as a child, she was allo No easy task as after all, the ferries carry wed to accompany her father on sailing Dorothee Gaedeke sailed all over the more than three million passengers and trips across the Baltic where the rocking North Sea and the Baltic in the MS around one million vehicles per year. of the waves gently lulled her to sleep. ILKA before deciding to return to She recounts that she also enjoys taking No wonder, therefore, that she very land and swap her place on the bridge the helm on one of the ferries from time soon knew what she wanted to be when for the job in the small ferry building to time, and her eyes light up, but that she grew up: a captain! So after school, in Travemünde. The reason was love is a rare occurrence for reasons she single-mindedly completed her de which was yearning for her on land. of time, she says. Her new gree in Marine Engineering in Bremen. But she didn’t want to do without the honorary office also pro It was quite clear to her that she was familiar roll of the waves completely. motes girl power in a male entering a male-dominated domain. So together with her fiancé, she fulfil domain. She has been “Sometimes I was the only woman in led a dream and bought a sailing boat. elected as the first female the courses and the same again later on “That was the deal”, she says laughing. chairperson of Lübeck’s board ship”, she says. As a woman, do “I can’t give up the sea altogether.” And Association of Ships Of you have to be better than a man? “Yes, the two of them spend all their free time ficers and Captains. “A that is expected of you, in fact, you al on the water, as he too shares her pas great honour”, she says ways have to prove yourself. It wasn’t al sion for the waves and the sea. That is proudly and smiles with ways easy”, she recalls looking back. “As happiness! great self-assurance. “As a the only woman in the crew, I frequently woman, I can really make had to defend the honour of women in a waves.” Hats off to her!

Never cease to be amazed

Promenade Tour Hotel Projects Travemünde Fishermen’s Harbour The urban seaside resort is in an atmosphere Where Trave promenade and beach prome- The traditional fishermen’s harbour receives a of change and is reinventing itself. A high- nade meet, Travemünde’s newest accommo- rejuvenating cure. Apart from holiday apart- light is the round tour along the redesigned dations offer comfort in a prime location: the ments and flats also a promenade will be Trave promenade and the Priwall promenade a-ja resort with 242 rooms, a spa landscape built here that will adopt the original charm which are connected by two ferries. The and an XL outdoor pool, as well as the of the harbour. Also in the future freshly stroll leads on to the 20-metre-wide and High End Travemünde, a luxurious holiday caught fish can be bought right on the spot 1.7-km-long beach promenade. Numerous apartment house with around 100 attractive from the fishing boats and numerous sunny cafés and fish roll kiosks offer snacks in apartments. The Priwall will also be home spots in cafés and restaurants will offer a a front-row-location, with a sea view, of to exclusive apartments in a unique water splendid view of the sailing boats and ferries course. and dune location as part of the ‘Priwall that enter and leave the port. In 2019, the Waterfront’ project. ‘Festival of Sandsculptures’ will take place for the first time at the fishermen’s harbour.

13 Every- thing flows

14 Sporty on the Water Being surrounded by the rivers Trave, Wakenitz and the Elbe- Lübeck-Canal, Lübeck is the perfect location for water sports. From here, one can set off to varied canoe trips or stand up paddling tours while enjoying the sun and untouched Northern German nature. Those in need of a small break can dock at the Strandsalon: the beach bar on the peninsula Nördliche Wallhalbinsel offers delicious drinks, small snacks and a true holiday feeling.

L beck s favourite place to linger and let your mind wander.. With the perfect Lübeck’s view over the Old Town waterways bank of the river Obertrave , the so-called Malerwinkel Pa in te rs Corner is a

popular meeting spot for to Travemünde. a rtists ,musicians locals and

to urists ..Especially in summer a trip with launch – the surround the island-shaped

it is a place where people and Wakenitz The rivers Trave discovery journey. Be it on your Be it on your discovery journey. fascinating also from the water - UNESCO panorama of Lübeck is UNESCO panorama side. With an excursion boat the side. With own in an electric boat or during ’ ’ Corner – the ‘ Painters Malerwinkel Old Town and invite to a maritime Old Town make music dance and route leads along idyllic nature up relax a true insider s tip.

15 |Jonathan|Meese|

The ‘completest’ overall work of art

There is scarcely an artist in the modern era who polarises public opinion to the same degree as Jonathan Meese. He was born in Tokyo in 1970 and grew up in Ahrensburg in Schleswig- Holstein. Now five art institutions and cultural facilities in Lübeck are focusing on his work. The Overbeck Society, the St. Anne’s Art Gallery, the Günter Grass-House, St. Peter’s Church of Lübeck and the ‘Kulturwerft Gollan’ are not only presenting his work for the first time in Germany’s northernmost state but also showing it to an extent hitherto not seen. Meese’s wide-ranging artistic disputes – from painting, sculpture, graphic design and photography via film, opera, installations and performance all the way to poetry and texts – are the subject of much controversy. But why? Meese queries the present system of society and would like to replace it by a ‘dictatorship of art’.

16 Oliver Zybok: You are preparing an ela- logues/ideologies. Slowly but surely, people borate exhibition project in Lübeck entitled are starting to have enough of the ideolo- ‘Zuhause’ (At Home), a kind of overall work gues/ideologies! Art provokes all ideological of art with the participation of five cultu- power systems into extinction! Art is the ral institutions in the Hanseatic town: the ‘free play of all forces’! People finally under- Overbeck Society, the St. Anne’s Art Gallery, stand how to classify ideologues/ideologies Art is at home the Günter Grass-House, St. Peter’s church as the worst, dumbest apparitions and the in Lübeck in Lübeck and the Kulturwerft Gollan. This most devoid of future! is the biggest project that you have ever staged. What can we expect? Zybok: You are a major critic of any form Overbeckgesellschaft of ideology. Could you explain that briefly? Through contemporary art, Jonathan Meese: We are eagerly awai- the association Lübecker ting the completest overall work of art, and Meese: Art is the absence of ideology! Kunstverein makes art Lübeck will be raised to the status of ‘Art Ideology is only ever the prevention of and society-related topics State’! Lübeck will be de-ideologised from future! Ideology means peer pressure a subject of discussion. its home, in other words readied for the devoid of freedom! Ideology fogs every Each year, five exhibitions, future by art. Art is the space devoid of fear! brain! No child is ideological! Only the exclusively created for the Overbeckgesellschaft as an Lübeck will be entrusted to art without gui- ‘adult brain’ straitjackets people! Ideology exhibition venue take place le! I will have art per se staged in Lübeck! always means nothing but brainwashing, here. Guided Tours, round indoctrination, egomania, ingratiation and table talks and lectures give Zybok: What do you associate with the scaremongering! Man without ideology is the visitors an understan- Hanseatic city of Lübeck in general terms? a sustainable model, so evolve yourselves! ding of it. You grew up in Ahrensburg, and during Art dethrones all ideologues/ideologies! Art your childhood and youth, you were fre- depoliticises everyone/everything! Gallery for one night quently to be found in this town on the This Old Town house, in the river Trave. Zybok: Do you think the excesses of an past was used as a grocery unbelievably resurgent populism in the shop, today functions as a Meese: Lübeck for me is a suburb of ‘at world are the result of ideologies? gallery for the artist Gabi Bannow. Amidst the original home’! Lübeck is a construct of love in the shop fittings, she also name of arch-marzipanitis! Lübeck is a ha- Meese: Every form of politics dulls the exhibits in the hallway. Her ven of the ‘futuremost’ if it gives itself over senses! Any politics belong in the past! central theme is the human to art unconditionally! Lübeck is the town Any politics are wrong! Any politics being, mostly presented in which can renew itself through the perfor- are a lottery! Any politics are ideologi- acrylic paints. Events such mance of art! Only art can catapult Lübeck cal! Anything that is wrong at the mo- as readings, concerts and into the future: A.R.T. = F.U.T.U.R.E! Art is ne- ment is the result of politics, i.e. ideology! parties make the premises a ver terrifying! Politics and religion frighten people! Anybo- vivid spot in the Old Town. dy who wants to choose the future must Zybok: There have already been several de-ideologise themselves and rely on art! Defacto Art e. V. on-site meetings in Lübeck, and among Art is synonymous with the future! A location of a different kind dedicated to art – other things, you have viewed the exhibiti- a petrol station. Near the on sites. All those involved in the ‘Zuhause’ Zybok: What does that mean for Lübeck? Holsten Gate, the former project recently visited you in your studio in petrol station has become Berlin. A great sense of euphoria could be Meese: Lübeck must become the ‘home’ an exhibition and working felt in all these encounters, an unbelievable of art! May Lübeck embrace art totally! place for artists. The asso- anticipation. Does that surprise you becau- Lübeck must subordinate itself to art! May ciation is an open forum se you have often been embroiled in very Lübeck recognise the constitution of ‘ART’ for diverse forms of art and heated controversy in the general public? as its boss! Art will give Lübeck a future! Art wants to create a connec- In this context, I would just like to mention will become Lübeck, Lübeck will become tion between artists and the two cues: State Theatre of Mannheim art, Lübeck will become a home for art! Lü- supporters. and Bayreuth. beck will be directed by A.R.T: Arch-Lübeck will follow! Meese: Art only generates future! Art is provocative as long as there are still ideo- www.die-luebecker-museen.de

17 |Lübeck| Here s were our stories take place

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23 A bed under the Baltic sky |Clemens|Dietrich| Barkeeper Clemens Dietrich is renowned for his creative creations

The Gin Man Where cocktails are more than just a drink

20 What used to be a building site on Lü asked for more and beck’s Untertrave riverbank and appa more varieties”, ex rently a popular route for walking your plains Dietrich who dog, has been the polished diamond of has now started expe ‘Dietrich’s’ – café, wine bistro and bar rimenting and even since 2015. The man behind the bar is wins international Clemens Dietrich, qualified restaurateur, competitions with his youth travel guide and first and foremost outstanding creations. a passionate bartender with a vision. Here the gin is given “We work to the credo of ‘If you drink, an infusion of black do it right’, he explains and gives the tea or blended with a gin its last tea infusion. And guests ente cold brew with ring the small bar get an immediate feel cocoa beans. The for how you do it right, Dietrich-style. exquisite results Where does a The restrained music, the atmosphere, are well received chef go to eat and the light, the service – the all-perva by his sophisti where does he ding style is one of a chic after-work cated clientele as enjoy drinking in club with much understatement. Here is the exceptio Lübeck? Clemens you don’t just take a drink, the drink is nal service. “The Dietrich is an celebrated – in its preparation, in the customer is of avowed fan of way it’s served and in the drinking. course king here, Nadia Weller and A leap in time: Berlin 2004, Oranien and we are his her ‘LabSaal’ in burger Straße, the party mile and in the court and want to Beckergrube. Here, the quality, atmo- thick of it, Clemens Dietrich behind deliver service to sphere and service the bar. “That’s where I got started in match. After all, are just right; they this profession. Pure bartender cliché nobody wants to speak the same with 150 cocktails at the double, plen be king of a back language when it ty of show, not so much quality, a lot court(yard)”, says comes to cuisine. of partying and lots of women”, says Dietrich in praise The same applies Dietrich with a wink of the eye and he of his dedicated to ‘Torrio’s’, grins again. His seasonal job as a youth team. Everybody a classic American travel guide fits the picture and he sticks works hand-in- bar in Königstraße with it even later during his years trai hand here with with fine drinks ning to become a qualified restaurateur the same objec and real charac- ters behind in Kleinmachnow near Berlin, his home tive: pleasure for the bar. since his childhood. Finally, on one such all the senses with youth trip, Lübeck appears on the scene a ‘drink and serve Clemens Dietrich is standing behind in the form of ‒ you’ve guessed it – a wo style’ of the hig the bar in his natural habitat or at man, his wife who is a native of Lübeck. hest quality. This aspiration is paying least that’s what it feels like. There’s Today the two of them live in Lübeck, off, and ‘Dietrich’s’ is featured in the no need of a table to talk at here have a small son and Clemens Dietrich most prestigious guides, acting as an because you are familiar with this has found his passion in life, ‘Dietrich’s’. ambassador for Lübeck’s young restau situation from the TV: You can have rant scene. “The goal along the way? To a good conversation with the bar- The bar is famous among residents of establish a top world bar in Lübeck and tender at the bar. Lübeck and connoisseurs of the restau to be mentioned in the same breath as rant scene for its extensive range of gins. Lübeck marzipan and our UNESCO arefully he lays a slice of ba Around 200 select drops are to be found World Heritage status”, states Clemens con on the iced glass, looks on the wooden shelves behind the bar Dietrich, rolling up his sleeves and pa up and grins devilishly from which take up the entire wall. “Actually, ving the way. So raise your glasses to the behind his beard: “How did this specialisation on gin was not planned toast of gin gin! CI end up here? My pooch did a pooh from the outset. Things just turned out www.dietrichs-luebeck.de outside the front door.” that way because my regular customers

21 Neue Rösterei Cafebar Kaffeehaus

Once one has made a step into One could spend the whole day in Hanseatic coffee culture can be the slightly hidden courtyard of the the cosy Scandinavian-styled rooms experienced traditionally in the roasting house, the delicious aroma or in the outdoor-area on Hüxstraße rooms of the coffee house fea- of freshly ground coffee rises to street with its small boutiques and turing Gotland marble plates and the nose. Curious for more? Next shops. The Cafebar offers delicious wooden floorboards. The archi- to high-quality coffee specialities breakfast, great coffee, homemade tecture-award-winning café offers from all over the world, the Neue pastry, different snacks and classic seasonal products from the region Rösterei offers deliciously prepared long drinks and cocktails in the and attaches value to an original, sandwiches and selected craft beer. evening – the package is just right. genuine taste experience. An expe- Also worth-seeing: one of the live rience for the eye and the palate at concerts in the café’s cosy courtyard. the same time.

Fresh wind Kaffeehaus in Lübeck’s gastronomic scene

Gotteskeller Labsaal Tonfink

Beneath Lübeck’s traditional res- Cooking soul food – according to Cosy café in the afternoon, trendy taurant ‘Schiffergesellschaft’ (Seafa- this credo Nadia Weller cooks in her bar with live music and other cul- rers’ Guild) lies the small quaint bar intimate restaurant in Beckergrube. tural events at night, the Tonfink ‘Gotteskeller’. After its opening in Regional, fresh, creatively interpre- is versatile and convincing with its 1401, people in need received food ted classics, preferably in organic concept. Fair trade and regional ori- and financial support here. Today quality, these are the attributes of gin are obligatory for a product to the guests can spend a wonderful her kitchen. Regular cultural events find its place on the menu. All dishes evening in a leisurely atmosphere such as readings or concerts take are homemade, nothing comes from while enjoying freshly tapped beer, place in the Labsaal. a packet. Table soccer and a public good wine or selected cocktails. bookcase are additional offers for distraction.

22 A bed under Kaffeehausthe Baltic sky Further information: Unforgettable moments are guaranteed in www.365tage-glueck.de the sleeper beach basket

ince 2016, guests in Travemün the waves in your ear – this is pure bliss. beach basket. Tables and chairs are at the de have been able to enjoy the The sleeper beach basket is 1.40 metres ready on the small wooden terrace – this perfect sunrise on the Baltic Sea wide and equipped with fluffy cushions is how the day should begin. Freshly invi beach, snuggled up in soft bed and thick duvets, romantic lighting, a gorated and well rested, guests can then Slinen with a cup of coffee in their hand – bottle of water for the night and some explore their surroundings. Travemünde in one of the four cosy sleeper beach bas light reading matter for the evening. A has a lot to offer. Anyone wanting to get kets. They are located on the beach pro tarpaulin can be fastened over the enti to know the bay from a different perspec menade on the broad sandy beach with a re area of the chair, protecting you from tive should undertake an extended walk direct view of the sea. wind and weather. Two lateral portholes along the steep coast of Brodten. Over and the transparent front of the tarpau the course of centuries, the sea has fash It is the ultimate childhood dream to lin reveal a view of the Baltic Sea beach ioned a rough cliff here as high as a to spend a night on the beach under a clear and the sea itself even if the cover is pul wer. On one side, you have a free view starry sky. This dream can now come led up. At night, these windows can na over the Baltic Sea, the white sails of true here in the Bay of the ships and big vessels Lübeck – and with a degree It’s a magic moment when the first tender pink rays appear coming to Travemün of comfort that can only on the horizon at daybreak, and the beach in Travemünde is de from Scandinavia. be offered by your bed at bathed in the dewy dawn. The seagulls strike up their Landwards, the scene is home or in a hotel. Becau maritime concert, and a new day begins in the real North. dominated by gleaming se who wants to leave for rape fields in the spring home or their holiday accommodation turally be obscured from prying eyes. In and blooming North German flora by after a beautiful day on the beach with the morning, you are woken not by the the wayside. And later take a refreshing a swim in the Baltic Sea, a lot of sunshi alarm but by nature – with the soft red dip in the Baltic Sea waves, soak up the ne and even greater relaxation? The day hues of dawn, the roar of the surf, a con warming sun or maybe spend a second can be brought to a better close over a cert of seagulls and the aroma of coffee. night in your sleeper beach basket under glass of red wine directly by the seaside, Because on request, a complete break the starry sky – it’s so hard to tear your with your feet in the sand and the roar of fast can be served directly at the sleeper self away.

Cut from the right

Julia Jostes and Simon Eberl repair used string instruments in instruments their workshop and manufacture new handcrafted wood With their violin workshop, Julia Jostes and Simon Eberl have fulfilled a dream

Julia Jostes and Simon Eberl set up their own violin Their desire to set themselves up in business with their centu production workshop in Lübeck in 2016. The young ries-old craft led them to Lübeck in 2016. “We took an imme couple spent a long time searching for the perfect loca- diate shine to the town, it was all so beautiful and the history tion for themselves, their two children and their shared of this old Hanseatic town was visible everywhere”, says Simon craftsmanship. After detours to Berlin and Hamburg, the Eberl going into raptures. “First and foremost, however, the family found a new home in the Aegidien district in the historic Old Town. Academy of Music is here as well as many theatres, and that played a role in our choice of location as a violin maker needs professional musicians as potential customers.” The discovery n their workshop, Julia Jostes and Simon Eberl make of an empty shop in the Old Town – the former Musikhaus stringed instruments in the best tradition of crafts Porsche – proved the tipping point for the couple as they had manship with much passion, patience and love of de the chance to convert it to a violin production workshop based tail. These two violin makers from the Frankfurt region on their own ideas. “I took that as a sign”, Julia Jostes recalls. Ilearned their rare craftsmanship at the renowned international “I knew then we had found our destination in Lübeck.” They State Vocational School for Instrument Making in Mittenwald. are very impressed with the neighbourliness in the Aegidien It was there that the two got to know each other and fell in district, everybody knows each other and they say hallo; they love. After their trade examination, they became journeymen are there for each other. And as the two of them live no more in order to gain experience with other violin makers and per than 50 metres from their workshop, a harmonious blend of fect their own art. work and family is guaranteed.

24 The couple has specialised in the maintenan ce, repair and above all the production of new violins, violas and cellos. The works of the Italian masters such as Giuseppe Guar neri and Antonio Stradivari are still in de mand as the classic models to emulate. Every new instrument that leaves the workshop is a unique specimen, hand-made in an elaborate process, and always bearing the personal sig Cut from nature of Julia Jostes and Simon Eberl. The tonewood used forms the most important basis for a truly out competition of the Violin Society of America where they won standing tone. “For that reason, the two of them personally the silver medal ‘for Tone in Quartet’. The open community select all the woods that they use for their instruments from the practised by the younger generation of violin makers is very tonewood dealer they have come to trust. For the top, we nor popular as the days of secretiveness commonly found in work the right mally use high-quality spruce from the Dolomites in northern shops of yore, are now over. “Today, we meet at conventions Italy, and for the bottom, ribs and scroll, we take maple wood and share our knowledge”, Simon Eberl relates. “For example, from Bosnia.” violin making has made big strides in quality over the last ten To swap notes with other violin makers and discuss their crafts years, and some of the new instruments today can hardly be wood manship, Julia Jostes and Simon Eberl take part in competi distinguished any more from an old masterpiece in terms of tions and workshops, for example the renowned Oberlin Violin tone.” Makers Workshop in Ohio, USA. In 2018, they took part in the www.geigenbau-jostes-eberl.de

“Our favourite place: In the summer, we often take the kids to the Krähenteich open air pool, which is just around the corner in an idyllic location on the island-shaped Old Town. There we often come across our neighbours in their bathrobes with a towel slung over their shoulder. This engenders a real holiday feeling, and the children love the large grassy play area.” (Julia Jostes)

Lübeck sounds

Schleswig-Holstein Music by the Sea Brahms Festival and Travejazz Festival Music Festival Sometimes loud, sometimes Brahms Villa Once a year you can hear Since 1986 the festival gives quiet – sometimes jazzy, so- During the annual Brahms jazz music at its best on the audience an understan- metimes classical: Travemün- Festival, professors and stu- Lübeck’s island-shaped Old ding of classical music at de swings with the sound of dents from the University of Town. The special blend is unusual places. Be it a rustic the waves when the concert Music delight their audience the main reason for the tre- barn, a former industrial series “Music by the Sea” with symphonies, chamber mendous success of the fes- warehouse, an old shipyard accompanies the guests into music and solos composed tival, where nationally and or a romantic castle, the the summer months. by Brahms and his contem- internationally renowned stiff structures of the opera www.travemuende- poraries. jazz musicians, as well as houses and concert halls are tourism.de www.mh-luebeck.de artists from the region fill opened and the music brings the Hanseatic music venues everyday places to life. with the sound of soul. www.shmf.de www.travejazz.de

25 With hand, heart and soul Petra und Mike Wöbke take to und Mike Wöbke hand, heart and soul Petra With shop like ducks to the water their job at fishmonger’s

Petra and Mike Wöbke are in their element when it Mermaid comes to the subject of fish meets Neptune

It’s been years since there has been any meat on Petra Wöbke has been the boss in the fish shop since the table in the Wöbke’s home; they are fish- 2002. The family business was founded in 1962 by her eaters with a passion. Fish is on the menu five mother. The 18 square metre shop in Travemünde has times a week, in all its variations. Husband Mike been open since 1970, fitted out single-handedly at the takes on the cooking duties in their home, which time by Petra’s father. Even as a child, Petra Wöbke fre wife Petra finds an excellent idea. quently stood behind the counter and played ‘shop’. Even back then, the Wöbkes had specialised in smoked fish isch-Wöbke is somewhat hidden away in Kur from their own family production, and things have stayed gartenstraße/corner of Rose – a little distance that way. The smoked fish is delivered fresh from the oven from the shopping promenade Vorderreihe in by sister Manuela who has taken over the family smoke Travemünde. This specialist fish shop is known house in Lübeck-Karlshof from her father. The fish rolls Fto holiday-makers and ‘genuine’ Travemünders for its to go are very popular for those looking for a snack bet home-made salads and tasty smoked fish. During the ween meals, and they are freshly prepared in the shop main season, customers even put up with queuing up in with the desired filling. Today, Petra Wöbke is a tough front of the shop. You can catch sight of the tempting businesswoman with 14 employees, Hanse entrepreneur specialities through the shop window – from smoked eel and much in demand as a specialist for work in the Han ‘Schlutuper style’, via herring, halibut, kippers, rollmops se Association. In her free time, Petra Wöbke performs and butter mackerel all the way to cold-smoked nori sal charity work at the outpatient children’s and youth hos mon and salmon confectionery. There is also fresh fish pice ‘Die Muschel’ (The Mussel) and supports grieving but only to order. families. “This is a subject close to my heart”, says the 58-year-old who takes pleasure in being able to help.

26 |Wöbke|

Husband Mike wears the trousers in the salad kitchen. siness, therefore, which is opening up and ensuring that Every day, this trained cook with thirty years’ experience the family business constantly receives new ideas. This with fish conjures up as many as twenty different salads includes so-called ‘pairing’ as they express it in professio with his team ‒ including sea algae salad and ten types of nal circles. Because “fish has to swim” as they say, and at marinades, some classic dishes but also with a liking for his tastings, Mike always recommends a matching white innovative creations of his own. His biggest hits are the wine or a light red wine with the fish. Great idea! The

“You can also experience maritime harbour atmosphere up close and personal in Travemünde’s fishermen’s harbour. Freshly caught fish is sold here directly from the cutters every weekday from 9 a.m. The professional fishermen sail out to sea early in the morning, and usually they bring back cod and flounder, sometimes there is some saithe in the catch. In the spring, there’s herring.“ (Petra and Mike Wöbke)

mild herring fillets with herbs and red onions of which couple Petra and Mike are particularly proud of their he sells around 200 kilos every week during the summer latest award from the specialist fish magazine ‘Seafood season. Mike Wöbke sees himself as an ‘ambassador’ for Star’ 2018 for the ‘best fish concept at a tourist location’. fish and would like to enthuse people for fish as high-qua Incidentally: Even if the holiday guests have long since lity food of the future. To do so, he underwent additional returned home, they don’t have to do without the tasty training as a ‘fish sommelier’ in 2017 and since then, he smoked fish because they can have their ideal fish from has been happy to share his knowledge. He offers courses Wöbke delivered throughout the country to their home and lectures on the subject of fish and tasting sessions for address by forwarding agent. Just give us a call! his in-house fish specialities. A completely new line of bu www.fischwoebke.de Lively UNESCO World Heritage Of tradition and beautiful things 28 |Dietlind|Wolf|&| |Marcus|Niendorf|

Sometimes that’s the way things go: two things fit together like pieces of a jigsaw. In that case, it’s fate that has decided to bring two worlds, two life stories, two people together. That’s doubtless what happened when the paths of Marcus Niendorf and Dietlind Wolf crossed. He is a pharmacist and owner of Lübeck’s Löwen Pharmacy, she a multi- talented artist. And their common vision is their ‘Löwenmanufaktur’.

29 here is a smell of lavender, cardamom and sandalwood in the air. The starry sky on the high ceilings is hand-pain ted, the furnishings a harmonious Tblend of restrained modernity and antique treasures from the 18th century. A visit to the Löwen Pharmacy is like travelling through time. Essential oils are in the air and visitors are assailed from all sides by the history they transport. This proud patrician house is a je wel at the heart of the Old Town as it is Lü beck’s oldest town house. Built around 1230, it is even around 250 years older than our fa mous Holsten Gate. “The Empress Elisabeth, wife of the Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV, resided here during a state visit in 1375”, Marcus Niendorf relates.

And there is much to relate for this Lübeck pharmacist as in fact he could equally well have become a historian or architect, such is his seemingly limitless knowledge of the his tory of this brick building which has been so closely linked to his family history since 1812, the year the Löwen Pharmacy was opened. The Hanseatic tradition, the age of the Bud “Lübeck in fog and Lübeck denbrooks, the chronicles of Lübeck have left by night. I love it here when their mark and can still be felt in the rooms the town becomes one with of the Löwen pharmacy. The concept, with itself.” (Dietlind Wolf) which Marcus Niendorf has forged his niche, fits well with this atmosphere so steeped in history. “I took over the pharmacy from my father as the youngest of four children in the in the initial period from the nursing staff at fourth generation. After the war, he rebuilt Lübeck’s University Clinic. A calming oil with the business and made it profitable. And, of which to treat patients suffering from panic at course, it was expected of me that I would tacks was needed, and it brought success. The continue the tradition. That is a great source birth of a new product line: oils for the psyche. of pleasure to me, especially because I have They bear expressive names such as ‘Löwen found a strategy which I think has the poten bändiger’ (lion-tamer), ‘Balsam für die Seele’ tial to ensure the survival of the pharmacy in (balm for the soul) or ‘Löwenkraft’ (strength the way I envisage.” of a lion), and they have proven their worth with customers of the Löwen manufactory. We are talking about the hand-made Löwen “It all fits together with perfect logic”, says production business. Since 2006, Marcus Niendorf, “here we have this house steeped in Niendorf has been developing traditional history, I have this inexhaustible family archi formulas based on sources from the family ve and my specialist knowledge as well as my archives of his great grandfather. The idea vision of the Löwen manufactory in the pur of turning the clock back and creating a suit of which I have devoted all my efforts.” counter-movement to the rapidly automating world of the pharmacy had been going Indeed, the decidedly broad product range through his head for some time, and it took now includes herbal formulas in the areas more definite shape on a visit to a convent of the mind, the immune system, travel and pharmacy in Florence. He received support birth, to name but some. And yes, visually

30 |Dietlind|Wolf|&| |Marcus|Niendorf| too, it fits perfectly with the ‘beautiful old phar macy world’ of the Löwen Pharmacy. This is whe re Dietlind Wolf comes into play. Marcus Nien dorf ’s matching piece of the jigsaw, so to speak, as they share the same interests and the same vision. “Things have to be beautiful.” Architecture, art, design, tradition, love of detail and authenticity, these are the things that the two – at first sight so different – protagonists of this story have in com mon.

Dietlind Wolf is an artist through and through. “I was born creative, if you like, that was evident even in kindergarten. Luckily they followed the Montes sori principle which gave me many opportunities to express my creativity. I still have a lot of pictu res of myself from this time”, she recalls. And so after completing her Abitur school-leaving exams, she embarks on a decidedly varied artistic career. Textile design in the haute couture field in Italy and Switzerland, a restaurant run as a collective, a teaching job in Hamburg at the Academy for Fashion and Design, prop styling for international magazines, principally in the area of food, and fi nally photography and her own line of ceramics. “Whenever I need to When their paths cross, Dietlind Wolf had had her take a break and studio in Hamburg for many years. Love finally led recharge my batteries, her from there to Marcus Niendorf and to Lübeck. I go to the goldsmiths And here the two of them now live, in a venerab ‘Galerie Nimbus’ le patrician house, above the Löwen pharmacy, belonging to Hannes at the heart of things in Lübeck’s World Cultural Kuhn and Ulla Herz and Heritage Site, the UNESCO Old Town. The con I look at their simply version work on the 120 square metres on the top wonderful things.” floor is far from finished; it’s an ongoing process. (Marcus Niendorf) “We take a lot of pleasure in architecture and we have a lot of ideas in our heads, some of which can be realised and some maybe not”, the pair muses. In the pharmacy below, on the other hand, some people are simply born with it. “I am the creative energy on show knows no bounds. passionate about conveying the authenticity “The Löwen manufactory is our baby, and to a of something in the photo. Luckily, this trend degree also our legacy for Lübeck”, Marcus Nien- already exists in food photography and I would dorf explains, looking at his wife. Once again, it is like to apply it to pharmaceuticals, too”, she ex clear how well this couple complement each other plains. Perhaps it is this very authenticity which as the two creative talents are developing the be makes the overall package so charming. Phar autiful product design on their own, creating the macist and artist, Lübeck and the Old Town perfect stage for their tinctures and creams in the island and a vision of tradition and beautiful photos in their online shop. With an unbelievably things. sure eye for style, Dietlind Wolf creates the per fect setting for the product, herbs, miniature bowls www.loewen-apotheke-luebeck.de and drawings – once learned never forgotten, and www.dietlindwolf.blogspot.com

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Christmas city of the North Faces of the Christmas markets

At Christmas time, the Christmas market in the UNESCO Old Town of Lübeck is a particularly favourite place with a long tradition. Already in 1648, the Christmas market at the Town Hall was mentioned in a historic document for the very first time. Today, each year ten Christmas worlds turn Lübeck into the Christmas capital of the North and amaze visitors from near and far. In the festively lit Old Town visitors find the traditional Christmas market located next to the historic Town Hall, art and crafts markets inside the Hos- pital of the Holy Spirit, inside the Hoghehus building and St. Peter’s church, and the lovingly designed Fairytale Forest at St. Mary’s churchyard. The Christmas Wonderland with the kids’ skating rink and the pixie forest located next to the European Hansemuseum are especially nice for families with children. A journey back in time to the Middle Ages can be experienced at the Historic Christmas market at St. Mary’s church and the Maritime Christmas market on Koberg. It reminds of the tradition of the old maritime quarter around St. Jacob’s church. The Starlit Forest at Schrangen is a comfy meeting spot amidst the pre-Christmas hustle and bustle. Festive Christmas concerts, Christmas at the Buddenbrook’s and contemplative church services in the Old Town churches complete the inviting Christmas programme. During Advent, the advent bazaar in Niederegger café attracts visitors with delicacies made from marzipan. The ‘Christmas City of the North’ will officially be opened with the family service in St. Mary’s church called ‘Adventsleuchten’ and a light procession through the Old Town streets. Oh, you merry Christmas!

by my studio in the Essigfabrik (vinegar factory) and take their time in selecting their fa vourite pieces, or ask me to produce a piece of jewellery based on their own ideas.” Her pieces of jewellery are unique, hand-made specimens of sil ver, gold and gemstones. “I love experi menting and I often work with text and tongue in cheek to give my creations an individual touch”, the bubbly artist says in describing her work. For examp le, she likes to use everyday objects in her jewellery pieces such as bottle caps, buttons, Lego blocks and coffee beans – there are no limits to creativity. She calls her concept “the life of things” which also includes devoting a poem or song to her “babies” as she lovingly refers to her jewellery pieces. again and the family atmosphere. There is such a feeling of anticipation.” The Whenever the four walls of her Christ trained goldsmith (34) has been exhibi mas cubbyhole drive her into claustro Jana ting her unusual jewellery in the Hospi phobic rage as she jokingly explains, tal of the Holy Spirit for the last eight she also likes to play her accordion as years, and being music is her se allowed to return cond passion be Nitsch every year is al sides her work as ne of the best known and most like receiving “My favourite place is the a goldsmith. She most beautiful Christmas the ultimate acco ‘Essigfabrik’. Not only because performs over markets is the Artisans’ lade. Jana Nitsch this old factory building is the 70 times a year Market in the medieval has furnished her home of my goldsmith’s workshop with her husband OHospital of the Holy Spirit which is held six square metre at Kanalstraße but also because Marcus as the in the church hall, in the former ‘resi ‘cubbyhole’ with a it’s a young cultural centre and ‘TroubaDuo’, dential cubbyholes’ in the nave and the mobile workbench, a genuine creative hotbed with and the two of historical cellar vault. Here, around 120 two glass cabinets great artists, exhibitions, them have alrea artisans from Germany, Scandinavia and small folding concerts and readings. dy recorded va and the Baltic states show the diversity travel cases in or From time to time, I make music rious CDs. They of their old and new craft techniques. der to present her here in Bistro Balsamico with play a mix of kle Jana Nitsch, goldsmith, poet and musi craft and creative TroubaDuo and other artists, zmer, Balkan be cian from Lübeck, has been among the jewellery collection so you’re welcome to drop in!” ats and street mu select exhibitors for many years. in the best possible (Jana Nitsch) sic. Jana Nitsch light in the smallest has also made a “I always get butterflies in my tummy possible space. “The Christmas market name for herself in Lübeck as a poet. even when setting up the Christmas in the Hospital of the Holy Spirit gives ‘Das Wortgewand’ (word garment) market”, says Jana Nitsch, her eyes shi me home advantage and great adverti is the title of her volume of poetry, a ning. “I love the days before things kick sing”, says this artisan who is a native of collection of songs, poems and illustra off. I enjoy seeing the other exhibitors Lübeck. “Many visitors also later drop tions. An all-round artistic talent!

ne special location which there was no way to keep your writing has excited the smallest neat.” He went to school in Lübeck visitors to the Christmas from Grade 4 onwards but only from markets for generations, November to March when the family Ois the Fairytale Forest at the foot of set up its winter camp on Volksfest- St. Mary’s church. It first opened its platz. Otherwise, this family of travel- doors in 1962 and since then it has put ling show artists moved from funfair a smile on children’s faces every year to funfair right across the country, and at Christmas time. The fairytale mo- little Peter went to a different school tifs originally served as shop-window every week with the other travelling decorations for the Karstadt depart- show children. It didn’t do him any ment store almost 60 years ago befo- harm, “I always had lots of friends”, sold to Denmark, Peter Belli took over the chairmanship of the association and bought up the fairytale figures and their berths at a stroke. “The Fairytale Forest is quite simply part of Lübeck, otherwise there’s something missing Peter Belli in the Christmas market”, he states in re they were moved to the St. Mary’s the 56-year-old happily recalls, but justification of his commitment which churchyard as a pre-Christmas attrac- when it came to his two daughters and continues to this day. “It’s simply a part tion for families with children. The his grandchildren, he always set great of our childhood – not just for me but cherished tradition of the Fairytale store by a permanent school and good for generations of Lübeck residents.” Forest now includes 23 ‘berths’ whe- training. He would have liked best of re the finest fairytale figures of the all to be a car mechanic but the family The association is regularly depen- Brothers Grimm and others can be business was more important, and so dent on donations in order to fund found – from King Thrushbeard and Peter Belli learned all the manual skills the restoration of the mobile fairytale Cinderella, via Hansel and Gretel and from his father and in the end took figures and their wooden berths and to the Sleeping Beauty to Pippi Longsto- over his parent’s business. “There’s construct new ones year for year. Bro- cking, Jim Button and Max and Mo- nothing a travelling show worker can’t ckensammlung Lübeck, for example, ritz. turn his hand to”, he explains with a recently adopted Mrs. Holle and Pippi grin. “And if there’s something he can’t Longstocking. “Without our suppor- One person who has been there from do, he keeps trying until he can.” No ters and sponsors, the Fairytale Forest the beginning and who is particularly sooner said than done ‒ and so this would not be able to survive”, says Pe- fond of the Fairytale Forest, is travelling likeable travelling show artist with his ter Belli. “I would like to express my show artist Peter Belli who was born in heart in the right place is today a ge- heartfelt thanks for this commitment.” 1963. Even as a small boy, he helped his nuine self-made man. Crêpes, fishing His own dedication goes without say- parents at their sweet stall in the Fairy- for ducks and pitching at cans make up ing for him even if it takes up a lot of tale Forest, was allowed to take care of his business with the addition of doug- his time and work. He takes charge of the fairytale figures, inspected tickets hnuts and the children’s railway in the almost all the repair work himself, “al- for the children’s merry-go-round with Fairytale Forest. though my wife and some volunteers his two brothers and did his homework sew the clothes for the dolls, that’s not in the last carriage of the children’s When the Fairytale Forest Association really my bag.” railway. “I was rocked backwards and ‘Pro Lübeck e.V.’ ran into financial dif- forwards and every time the carriage ficulties at the beginning of 2000 and went over the sleepers, it shook – and there was a threat of the forest being

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