24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:30 AM Page 1045

Index

Alcaicería (Granada), 968 Amos and Anna Muzeum Abbey Theatre (Dublin), Alcazaba (Málaga), 969 (Szentendre), 574 610 Alcázar (Segovia), 925 Amphitheater (Arles), 352 The Abbotsford (Edinburgh), Alcázar (Seville), 958 , 2, 722–756 860 Alcázar (Toledo), 922 accommodations, 732–737 Aberfeldy (Scotland), Alcázar de los Reyes Cris- American Express, 730 881–882 tianos (Córdoba), 963 bars (cafes), 754–755 Absolut (Athens), 498 Aleko’s Island (Athens), 498 bicycling, 728–729 Accademia, Galleria dell’ Alexander Keiller Museum brown cafes, 754 (), 682–683 (Avebury), 277 business hours, 730 Accademia, Galleria dell’ Alexanderplatz (Rome), 663 “coffee shops,” 756 (), 715 Alexander’s (Athens), 498 currency and currency Accommodations, 30 The (), 808 exchange, 730 tips on, 41–43 Alfi’s Goldener Spiegel embassies and consulates, Acrocorinth (Corinth), (Vienna), 70 730 502–503 The Algarve (), emergencies, 730 Acronafplia (Nafplion), 506 818–835 gay and lesbian travelers, Acropolis (Athens) Alhambra (Granada), 747, 755–756 accommodations near, 964, 966 hospitals, 731 477–478 Alice’s Shop (Oxford), 266 Internet access, 731 restaurants near, 484–486 A l’Imaige de Nostre-Dame layout of, 727–728 sightseeing, 487–490 (), 128 mail and post offices, 731 Acropolis Archaeological All Saints’ Day (Spain), 22 native behavior, 726 Museum (Athens), 490 Alpheus (Rome), 663 nightlife, 752–756 Adega Machado (Lisbon), 815 Alpine Flower Garden organized tours, 750–751 Aghadoe Heights (Ireland), Kitzbühel (Austria), 102 pharmacies, 730 615 Alpspitz region (Germany), police, 731 AghaRTA Jazz Centrum 439–440 restaurants, 737–741 (Prague), 169 Alte Nationalgalerie (Berlin), safety, 731 Agora, Ancient (Athens), 399–400 shopping, 751–752 488, 490–491 (), sightseeing, 741–751 Agrari (Mykonos), 531 426 taxes, 731 Ägyptisches Museum Alter Simpl (Munich), 434 telephone, 731 (Berlin), 400 Altes Museum (Berlin), 399 tipping, 732 Airfares, 29–30, 34 Altes Rathaus (Old City transportation, 728–729 Airlines, 32–33, 40–41 Hall), Munich, 426 traveling to, 723, 726 Aix-en-Provence (France), Altes Residenztheater visitor information, 352–354COPYRIGHTED(Munich), 431 MATERIAL726–727 Akershus Castle (Oslo), 764, Alto Jazz Café (Amsterdam), Amsterdam Diamond 775–776 754 Center, 752 Akhnaton (Amsterdam), 756 Alvor (Portugal), 824, 825 Amsterdam Pass, 743 AKOE-AMPHI (Athens), 498 Amager Museum (Dragør), Amsterdamse Bos, 750 Akrotiri (Santorini), 538 216 Amsterdamse Waterleiding A la Mort Subite (Brussels), Amalienborg Palace (Copen- Duinen (Zandvoort), 758 128 hagen), 211–212 Amsterdams Historisch Albayzín (Granada), 968 Amalienburg (Munich), 429 Museum, 744 Albert Cuyp market (Amster- Amboise (France), 335–336 Ancient Agora (Athens), dam), 752 American Bar (London), 260 490–491 Albertina (Vienna), 1, 63 American Museum (Bath), Ancient Corinth (Greece), Albufeira (Portugal), 286–287 501–502 826–828 Amfiscenen (Oslo), 777 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:30 AM Page 1046

1046 INDEX

Ancient Rome, restaurants, Artis (Amsterdam), 749 Aula Ottagona (Rome), 661 649–650 Asamkirche (Munich), 430 Austen, Jane, Centre (Bath), Ancient Thira (Santorini), 538 Asclepios, Sanctuary of 286 Andalusia, 952–974 (Epidauros), 512 Autoworld (Brussels), 122 Andrews Lane Theatre A Severa (Lisbon), 815 Autumn Wine Growers’ Fes- (Dublin), 610 Assisi (Italy), 696–700 tival (Lugano), 22 An Droichead Beag/The Astronomical Clock (Orloj; Avebury (England), 276–277 Small Bridge (Dingle), 632 Prague), 165 Angel Café (Prague), 160 Atelier Brancusi (Paris), 317 (Lisbon), 794 Angers (France), 343 Atelier de Cézanne (Aix-en- Avignon (France), 346–348 The Angry Boy (Oslo), 775 Provence), 354 Avoca Handweavers at Annasäule (Innsbruck), 95 Athena Nike, Temple of Moll’s Gap (Ireland), 625 Anne Frankhuis (Amster- (Athens), 488 Ayii Apostoli (Athens), 490 dam), 743–744 Athena Pronaia, Sanctuary Ayios Fokas (Tinos), 545 Anne Hathaway’s Cottage of (Delphi), 520 Ayios Ioannis (Tinos), 545 (Stratford-upon-Avon), 273 Athens, 1, 461–498 Ayios Stephanos (Greece), Antibes (France), 363–365 accommodations, 472–478 528 Antico Caffè Greco (Rome), American Express, 470 Ayios Stephanos (Mykonos), 646 business hours, 470 530 Antigo Mercado de Escravos cuisine and menu terms, Azay-le-Rideau (France), (Lagos), 821 478–479 334–335 Antikensammlung (Berlin), currency exchange, 470 399 dance clubs, 498 Antoniou winery (Santorini), doctors and dentists, 470 Bachus (Lisbon), 814 537–538 embassies and consulates, (Lisbon), Apocalypse Tapestries 470 808–809 (Angers), 343 emergencies, 471 restaurants, 804–805 Appartamenti Reali gay and lesbian bars, 498 Balestrand (Norway), 788 (Florence), 683 Internet access, 471 Ballater (Scotland), 888–889 Apple Market (London), 255 layout of, 467–468 Ballater Golf Club (Scot- April (Amsterdam), 755 live-music clubs, 497–498 land), 889 Apsley House (London), 251 nightlife, 495–498 Ballet Nacional de España Arachova (Greece), 520 Olympics, 462 (Madrid), 918–919 Aras an Uachtaráin (The Irish organized tours, 494 Ballinskelligs (Ireland), 622 White House; Dublin), 599 performing arts, 496–497 Balmoral Castle (Scotland), Arc de Triomphe (Paris), post offices, 471 889 317–318 restaurants, 478–486 Balvenie Castle (Scotland), Archaeological Museum safety, 467 891 (Corinth), 502 shopping, 494–495 Bamberger Haus (Munich), Archaeological Museum sightseeing, 487–494 433 (Mykonos), 530 taxis, 468–469 Bamboo Bar (Amsterdam), Archaeological Museum telephone, 471 754 (Olympia), 514–515 tipping, 471 Banana Café (Paris), 328 Archaeological Museum transportation, 468–469 Bandini Museum (Fiesole), (Santorini), 537 traveling to, 462–463, 466 688 Archaeological Museum of visitor information, Barbican Theatre–Royal Mycenae (Greece), 509 466–467 Shakespeare Company Arch of Constantine Athens Festival, 496 (London), 256 (Rome), 655 ATMs (automated teller Barcelona, 925–952 ArciGay/Lesbica (Florence), machines), 14 accommodations, 932–935 688 Atomium (Brussels), 1, 123 American Express, 930 Arciliuto (Rome), 663 A-Trane (Berlin), 408 consulates, 930–931 Arden, Mary, House (Strat- Auditorio Nacional de currency exchange, 931 ford-upon-Avon), 273 Música (Madrid), 919 day trips from, 950–952 Arena (Amsterdam), 756 (Germany), doctors and dentists, 931 Argos (Amsterdam), 755 454–457 emergencies, 931 Arles (France), 351–352 Augustinerbrau (Munich), gay and lesbian bars, 950 Around Gotland Race 433 hospitals, 931 (Sandhamn), 21 Augustiner Bräustübl layout of, 928 Art galleries, Athens, (Salzburg), 87 nightlife, 948–950 493–494 Augustinerkirche organized tours, 946–947 Arthur Young’s Walk (Ire- (Vienna), 64 restaurants, 935–941 land), 617–618 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:30 AM Page 1047

INDEX 1047

safety, 931 emergencies, 384 shopping, 947–948 (Munich), 431, 432 layout of, 382 sightseeing, 941–947 Bayerischer Hof Night Club native behavior, 399 telephone, 931 (Munich), 432 nightlife, 407 transportation, 928, 930 Bayerisches National- organized tours, 406 traveling to, 925, 928 museum (Munich), post offices, 384 visitor information, 928 426–427 restaurants, 392–397 Bärengraben (Bern), Bayerisches Staatsschauspiel safety, 384–385 1027–1028 (Munich), 431 shopping, 406–407 Barri Gótic (Barcelona), 946 Bayswater (London), accom- sightseeing, 397–406 Barrio de Santa Cruz modations, 234–235 taxes, 385 (Seville), 959 Bazilika (Budapest), 567 telephone, 385 Barrowland (Glasgow), 877 Bear Pits (Bern), 1027–1028 tipping, 385 Bar Rumba (London), 259 Beaux Arts Gallery transportation, 383 Basilica di San Clemente (Bath), 288 traveling to, 378–379, 382 (Rome), 659 Beers, Belgian, 129 visitor information, 382 Basilica di San Francesco Begijnhof (Amsterdam), 747 Berliner Philharmonisches (Assisi), 699 Begijnhof (Bruges), 137 Orchester (Berlin Philhar- Basilica di San Giovanni in Belém (Lisbon), 809 monic), 407 Laterano (Rome), 659 Belfort en Hallen Berlin-Mitte Basilica di San Lorenzo (Bruges), 135 accommodations, 390–392 (Florence), 685 Belfort en Lakenhalle restaurants, 395–397 Basilica di San Marco (Ghent), 140 sightseeing, 404–406 (Venice), 714 Belfry and Cloth Hall Berlin Opera (Deutsche Basilica di San Pietro (the (Ghent), 140 Oper Berlin), 407 Vatican), 651, 654 Belfry and Market Halls Bern (Switzerland), Basilica di Santa Chiara (Bruges), 135 1020–1044 (Assisi), 700 Belgian Comic-Strip Center accommodations, 1022, Basilica di Santa Croce (Brussels), 121 1024–1025 (Florence), 685 Belgravia (London), accom- gay and lesbian travelers, Basilica di Santa Maria modations, 232 1029 Assunta (San Gimignano), Bell Tower, Giotto’s nightlife, 1029–1030 696 (Florence), 684 restaurants, 1025–1027 Basilica di Santa Maria Mag- Belvárosi Vásárcsarnok sightseeing, 1027–1028 giore (Rome), 659 (Budapest), 570 transportation, 1022 Basilica di Santa Maria Bema (Corinth), 502 traveling to, 1021 Novella (Florence), 685 Benaki Museum visitor information, Basilica of the Holy Blood (Athens), 492 1021–1022 (Bruges), 135 Berchtesgadener Land Berner Oberland (Switzer- Basilique du Sacré-Coeur (Germany), 436 land), 1030–1044 (Paris), 320 Berchtesgaden National Bertramka (W. A. Mozart Basler Fasnacht (Basel), 18 Park (Germany), 436, 437 Museum; Prague), Bastille Day, 21 Bergen (Norway), 2, 165–166 Bateau-Lavoir (Paris), 320 780–789 Beule Gate (Athens), 488 Bath (England), 280–288 Bergen Card, 782 Beurs van Berlage (Amster- Bath Abbey (England), 287 Bergen Festival, 2, 20, 781 dam), 753 Bath International Music Bergen Folklore dancing Biblioteca Medicea Lauren- Festival (England), 19, 280 troupe, 786 ziana (Florence), 685 Baths of Caracalla (Rome), Bergen Symphony Orchestra Bicycling, 23 658–659 (Norway), 786 Biergärten Chinesischer Turm Battistero (Baptistery) The Berggruen Collection: (Munich), 433 Florence (San Giovanni), Picasso and his Era Big Mama (Rome), 663 684–685 (Berlin), 400–401 Big Sand (Mykonos), 530 Pisa, 694 Berlin, 1, 378–411 Bikini (Barcelona), 949 Siena, 691 accommodations, 385–392 BIMhuis (Amsterdam), Baur Collections (Geneva), American Express, 383 753–754 1016 business hours, 383 Blå (Oslo), 778 Bavarian Alps, outdoor cabaret, 408 Blacader Aisle (Glasgow), activities, 436–437 day trips from, 410–411 875 Bavarian National Museum doctors and dentists, 383 Black Lake (Austria), (Munich), 426–427 drugstores, 383 101–102 Bavarian State Ballet embassies and consulates, The Black Swan (Stratford- (Munich), 432 384 upon-Avon), 272 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:30 AM Page 1048

1048 INDEX

Black Tower (Ceské Boudewijn Theme Park and sightseeing, 118–125 Budêjovice), 187 Dolfinarium (Bruges), 138 taxis, 108 Black Tower (Cheb), 190 Bouillabaisse (St-Tropez), 357 telephone, 111 The Black Virgin (Montser- Bourbon Street (Amster- tipping, 111 rat), 952 dam), 754 toilets, 111 Blagovestenska church Boutari (Santorini), 537 transportation, 108–109 (Szentendre), 574 The Box (London), 259 traveling to, 103–104 Blarney Woollen Mills Bozar (Brussels), 127 visitor information, 105 (Dublin), 608 Braemar (Scotland), walking in, 109 Blarney Woollen Mills 886–887 Brussels Card, 123 (Killarney), 618 Braemar Castle (Braemar), Bryggen (Bergen), 784–785 Blasket Islands (Ireland), 629 887 Bryggen Brukskunst Blenheim Palace (Oxford), Braemar Golf Course (Bergen), 786 267 (Scotland), 887 Buckingham Palace Bloemenmarkt (Amsterdam), Brandenburger Tor (Bran- (London), 248 752 denburg Gate; Berlin), 404 Buda (Hungary), 551 Blois (France), 336–338 Brandon Bay (Ireland), 630 Budapest, 1, 546–577 Bloomsbury (London) Brazen Head (Dublin), 610 accommodations, 557–562 accommodations, 229 Bridge of Sighs (Venice), 715 American Express, 554 restaurants, 238–239 Brighton Festival, 19 business hours, 554 Blue Pool Nature Trail Britannia (Edinburgh), 855 coffeehouses, 564 (Ireland), 618 British Airways London Eye currency and currency Boating (London), 252 exchange, 554–555 Cannes, 361–362 British Galleries (London), day trips along the Danube St-Tropez, 358 250 Bend, 573–577 Boat of Garten (Speyside), The British Museum doctors and dentists, 555 889–890 (London), 248 embassies, 555 Boat Warehouse (Paris), 320 Bröhan Museum (Berlin), 401 emergencies, 555 Boboli Gardens (Florence), Broughty Castle (Dundee), Internet access, 555 683 884 layout of, 551 Boca de Inferno (Portugal), Brouwerij De Halve Maan native behavior, 558 817 (Bruges), 137–138 nightlife, 571–573 Bodleian Library Shop Brown cafes (Amsterdam), organized tours, 569 (Oxford), 267 754 pharmacies, 555 Bohemia (Czech Republic), Bruges (Belgium), 130–139 post offices, 556 171–191 Bruges Brewing and Malting restaurants, 562–565 Bois de Boulogne (Paris), Museum, 137 safety, 556 322 Brugs Brouwerij-Mouterij- shopping, 569–570 Bois de la Cambre (Brussels), museum (Bruges), 137 sightseeing, 565–569 124 Bruparck (Brussels), telephone, 556–557 Bon Accord (Glasgow), 878 122–123 tipping, 557 The Book of Kells (Dublin), Brussels, 1, 103–130 transportation, 552–554 599–600 accommodations, 111–115 traveling to, 546–547, 550 Boom Chicago Theater American Express, 109 visitor information, (Amsterdam), 753 business hours, 109 550–551 Booze (Athens), 498 cafes and bars, 128 walking tours, 569 Borderline (Amsterdam), 756 currency and currency Budapest History Museum, Bosmuseum (Amsterdam), exchange, 109 566 750 drugstores/pharmacies, 110 Budapesti Történeti Múzeum Botanical Garden (Geneva), embassies, 110 (Budapest), 566 1018 emergencies, 110 Budapest Spring Festival, 18 Botanical Gardens (Copen- gay and lesbian clubs, Budêjovick; Budvar (Ceské hagen), 213 127–128 Budêjovice), 187 Botanical Gardens (Leiden), layout of, 105, 108 Bulldog Palace (Amsterdam), 761 mail and post offices, 110 756 Botanical Gardens (Munich), markets, 125–126 Burano (Italy), 720 429 native behavior, 104 Burgmuseum (Salzburg), 84 Botanic Gardens, National nightlife, 126–129 Burgtheater (Vienna), 69 (Dublin), 606 organized tours, 125 Burlington Arcade (London), Botanischer Garten puppet theater, 127 254 (Munich), 429 restaurants, 115–118 Burrell Collection (Glasgow), Botanisk Have (Copen- safety, 110 873 hagen), 213 shopping, 125–126 Bus travel, 41 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:30 AM Page 1049

INDEX 1049

Bygdoy Peninsula (Oslo), 764 Capela d’Ossos (Faro), 831 Catacombe di San Sebas- sightseeing, 774–775 Capilla Real (Granada), 968 tiano (Rome), 658 Byzantine Museum (Athens), Capitoline Hill (Rome), Cathedral (Dom; Duomo) 492 656, 662 Augsburg (Dom St. Maria), Capitoline Museum (Rome), 456 656, 659–660 Avignon (Cathédrale Cabinet War Rooms Cappelle dei Medici Notre-Dame), 348 (London), 251 (Florence), 683 Barcelona (La Seu), 942 Cabo de Sao Vicente Ca’ Rezzonico (Venice), 716 Bern (St. Vincent), 1028 (Portugal), 823 Carfax Tower (Oxford), 265 Brussels (Cathédrale des Ca’ d’Oro (Venice), 716 Carillon (Salzburg), 83 Sts-Michel-et-Gudule), Café Alcântara (Lisbon), 816 Carnaby Street (London), 254 123–124 The Café Asante (Athens), Carnival (Carnaval; Burano (Italy), 720 498 Carnevale), 18 Cesk; Krumlov (St. Vitus Café Central (Madrid), 920 Carolina Rediviva (Uppsala), Cathedral), 181 Café Chris (Amsterdam), 754 999–1000 Chartres (Cathédrale Café Dante (Amsterdam), Carrantuohill (Ireland), 621 Notre-Dame de 755 Car rentals, 30, 39 Chartres), 329 Café Jazz Populart (Madrid), Car travel, 35, 39–40 Copenhagen, 213 920 Casa Battló (Barcelona), 943 Dublin Café Leopold (Vienna), 70 Casa Bordados da Madeira Christ Church Cathe- Café (Amster- (Lisbon), 813 dral, 600 dam), 755 Casa de Campo (Madrid), St. Patrick’s Cathedral, Café Milena (Prague), 160 916 604 Café Royal Circle Bar (Edin- Casa dei Cervi (Hercula- Esztergom (Hungary), 576 burgh), 860 neum), 666 Fiesole (Cattedrale di San Café Schiller (Amsterdam), Casa del Fauno (Pompeii), Romolo), 688 755 667 Florence (Cattedrale di Café Schuim (Amsterdam), Casa de Pilatos (Seville), 959 Santa Maria del Fiore), 755 Casa Patas (Madrid), 919 684 Café Vertigo (Amsterdam), Casa Real (Granada), 967 accommodations near, 755 Cascais (Portugal), 817 673–674 Caffè de Paris (Rome), 646 Casino Croisette (Cannes), restaurants near, 678 Caffè Sant’Eustachio (Rome), 362 Geneva (St-Pierre), 1016 646 Casinos Glasgow (Cathedral of Caherdaniel (Ireland), Bern, 1029–1030 St. Kentigern), 874 621, 622 Cannes, 362 Granada (Spain), 967–968 Cahirciveen (Ireland), 622 Estoril (Portugal), 817 Innsbruck (Dom zu Caird Park (Dundee), 884 Marbella (Spain), 972 St. Jakob), 96 Cairn Toul (Braemar), 886 Monaco, 376 Lisbon, 812 Calendar of events, 18–23 Torremolinos (Spain), 974 London (St. Paul’s Cathe- Camera Obscura (Edin- Zandvoort, 758 dral), 250 burgh), 854 Cask and Still (Glasgow), Málaga (Spain), 969–970 Campanile (Florence), 684 878 Munich (Frauenkirche), 430 Campanile di San Marco Castalian Spring (Delphi), Paris (Notre-Dame), 318 (Venice), 715 520 Pisa (Italy), 694 Campidoglio (Rome), 656 Castell & Son (The Varsity Prague Campo de’ Fiori (Rome) Shop; Oxford), 267 St. Nicholas, 166 accommodations near, 644 Castelo São Jorge (Lisbon), St. Vitus, 162–163 restaurants near, 647 809–810 Salisbury (England), 279 Campo Morosini (Venice), Castel Sant’Angelo (Rome), Salzburg, 83 718 656 Segovia, 924 Canal Grande (Grand Canal; Castle District (Budapest), Seville (Spain), 958–959 Venice), 713 569 Siena, 690–691 Cannaregio (Venice), accom- accommodations, 560 Toledo, 922 modations, 707 Castle Hill (Budapest), Torcello (Italy), 720 Cannes (France), 358–362 551–552 Tours (Cathédrale Cannes Film Festival, 19, 358 Castle of the Counts St-Gatien), 332 Cannolive (Cannes), 361 (Ghent), 140 Vence (France), 366 Canongate Tolbooth (Edin- Castro Marim (Vila Real), Cecilienhof Palace (Pots- burgh), 852 834 dam), 411 Canova Café (Rome), 646 Catacombe di San Callisto Celetná Crystal (Prague), Cap d’Antibes (France), 363 (St. Callixtus; Rome), 658 168 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:30 AM Page 1050

1050 INDEX

Cemetery of Keramikos Château d’Amboise (France), Cimiez (France), 370 (Athens), 491 335 The Circus (Bath), 285 Cemetière du Père-Lachaise Château d’Angers (France), Cirque Royal (Brussels), 127 (Paris), 322 343 The Citadel (Mycenae), 509 Center for Acropolis Studies Château d’Azay-le-Rideau Citadel (Visegrád), 576 (Athens), 490 (France), 334 Cité de la Musique (Paris), Centraal Station (Amster- Château de Blois (France), 326 dam), 726–729 337 Citizens Theatre (Glasgow), accommodations around, Château de Chambord 877 732–733 (France), 338 Cittie of Yorke (London), 258 restaurant, 737 Château de Chenonceau The City (London), restau- Central Market Hall (France), 340 rant, 244 (Budapest), 570 Château de Cheverny Civic Guard Gallery (Amster- Centre Belge de la Bande (France), 339 dam), 744 Dessinée (Brussels), 121 Château de Chinon (France), Clamores (Madrid), 920 Centre Pompidou (Paris), 342 Clan Tartan Centre (Edin- 317 Château des Baux (France), burgh), 858 Centro Cultural de Belém 350 Classic Garmisch Pass (Lisbon), 814 Château de Versailles (Germany), 440 Cerná vêz (Ceské (France), 328 Climate, 16–18 Budêjovice), 187 Château de Villandry Clock Tower (Bern), 1027 Cerná vêz (Cheb), 190 (France), 332–333 Clos-Lucé (Amboise), 335 Ceské Budêjovice (Czech Cheb (Czech Republic), Coach and Carriage Museum Republic), 185–187 187–191 (Florence), 683 Cesk; Krumlov (Czech Cheb Castle, 190–191 Coach Museum (Lisbon), Republic), 177–182 Cheb Museum, 190 810–811 Cesk; Krumlov Château, Chelsea (London) Coach travel (bus travel), 181–182 accommodations, 232–233 35, 41 Cézanne, Paul restaurant, 242 Cockring (Amsterdam), 755 Atelier de Cézanne (Aix-en- shopping, 254 Collezione Peggy Guggen- Provence), 354 Chenonceaux (France), heim (Venice), 715–716 route de Cézanne (Aix-en- 340–341 Collins Barracks (Dublin), 600 Provence), 353 Cherry Blossom Park Colosseo (Colosseum; Chambord (France), 338–339 (Amsterdam), 750 Rome), 655 Chamonix (France), 1020 Cheverny (France), 339–340 Columbus Monument Changing of the Guard Children’s Festival (Dinkels- (Barcelona), 943 London, 248–249 bühl), 450–451 Comédie-Française-Théâtre Stockholm, 992 Children’s Museum TM du Vieux-Colombier (Paris), Chapelle des Macchabées Junior (Amsterdam), 746 325 (Geneva), 1016 “The Chimney” (Dublin), 604 Concertgebouw (Amster- Chapelle du Rosaire (St-Paul- Chinon (France), 341–343 dam), 753 de-Vence), 366 Chopin Festival (Mariánské Copenhagen, 1, 192–215 Chapel of Bones (Faro), 831 Láznê), 183 accommodations, 200–202 Chapel of St. Anton Chrám sv. Mikuláse American Express, 198 (Garmisch-Partenkirchen), (Prague), 166 business hours, 198 439 Chrám sv. Víta (Prague), currency and currency Chapel of Santa Fina (San 162–163 exchange, 198 Gimignano), 696 Christ Church (Oxford), 266 day trips from, 216–217 Chapel of Sts. Erhard and Christ Church Cathedral doctors and dentists, Ursala (Cheb), 190 (Dublin), 600 198–199 Chapel of the Knights Christian Müller Organ embassies, 199 (Glasgow), 875 (Haarlem), 757 emergencies, 199 Charioteer of Delphi Christian Museum (Eszter- Internet access, 199 (Greece), 519 gom), 576–577 layout of, 196 Charles Bridge (Prague), Christiansborg (Copen- native behavior, 212 148, 162 hagen), restaurants, 207 nightlife, 214–215 Charles Garden (Budapest), Church of Our Lady (Bruges), organized tours, 213–214 568 137 post offices, 199 Charlottenburg (Berlin) Church of Our Lady restaurants, 203–208 restaurants, 394–395 (Kitzbühel), 101 shopping, 214 sightseeing, 400–401 Cilli-Bom (Berlin), 410 sightseeing, 208–214 Charlottenburg Palace Cimetière de Montmartre taxes, 199 (Berlin), 400 (Paris), 321 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:30 AM Page 1051

INDEX 1051

telephone, 199–200 De IJsbreker (Amsterdam), Dirleton Castle (Scotland), tipping, 200 754 861–862 transportation, 196–197 Delft (the ), Disabilities, travelers with, traveling to, 192–193, 196 759–761 26–27 visitor information, 196 Delftware (Amsterdam), 751 Djurgården (Deer Park; Copenhagen Cathedral, 213 Dellatos Marble Sculpture Stockholm), 977 Córdoba (Spain), 961–964 School (Tinos), 544 restaurant, 990–991 Corinth (Greece), 500–503 Delos (Greece), 532 sightseeing, 991–992 Corinth Canal (Greece), 501 Delphi (Greece), 499–520 Dog & Duck (London), 258 Corn Exchange (Glasgow), exploring the region by car, Dohány Synagogue 878 499–500 (Budapest), 567 Corniches of the Riviera Delphi Archaeological Dom. See Cathedral (France), 345 Museum (Greece), 519 Domkirche St. Stephan Cosmo (Amsterdam), 755 Den Hirschsprungske Sam- (Vienna), 66 Costa del Sol (Spain), 952 ling (Copenhagen), 210 Dom Museum (Salzburg), 83 Costa do Sol (Portuguese Den Lille Havfrue (Copen- Domus Aurea (Rome), Riviera), 816–818 hagen), 209 655–656 Côte d’Azur, 344 Den National Scene Donauwörth (Germany), Cours Mirabeau (Aix-en- (Bergen), 786 453–454 Provence), 354 Den Norske Husfliden (Oslo), Dora Stratou Folk Dance Covent Garden (London), 254 776 Theater (Athens), 497 accommodations, 230 Den Norske Opera (Oslo), Dorsoduro (Venice) restaurants, 239–240 777 accommodations, 706–707 Covent Garden Market (Lon- Derrynane (Ireland), 622 restaurants, 712 don), 255 Det Hanseatiske Museum Dragor (Denmark), 216 Crag Cave (Tralee), 626 (Bergen), 785 Dragor Museum (Denmark), Crathie Church (Braemar), Deutsche Guggenheim 216 887 Berlin, 401–402 Drottningholm Court Theater Credit cards, 14–15 Deutsche Oper Berlin (Berlin (near Stockholm), 994, 996 Crieff (Scotland), 880–881 Opera), 407 Drottningholm Palace (near Crieff Golf Club (Scotland), Stockholm), 994 881 (Munich), 427 Drummond Castle Gardens Crown Jewels (London), 245 Deutsche Staatsoper (Scotland), 881 Crystal Worlds (Innsbruck), 95 (Berlin), 407 Dublin, 578–612 Culinary schools, 24 Deutsches Theater (Munich), accommodations, 587–592 Culturlann Na hEireann 431–432 American Express, 584 (Dublin), 609 Diana, Princess business hours, 584–585 Customs regulations, 12–13 Memorial Playground doctors and dentists, 585 Cuvilliés Theater (Munich), (London), 251 drugstores, 585 428, 431 walk commemorating the embassies, 585 The Cyclades (Greece), life of (London), 252 horse-drawn carriage tours, 521–545 Dick Mack’s “Haberdashery” 607 Czech Philharmonic Orches- (Dingle), 632 hospitals, 585 tra (Prague), 168–169 Die Burgkapelle (Vienna), Internet access, 585–586 62–63 layout of, 583 Die Sammlung Berggruen: native behavior, 603 Dahab (Prague), 160 Picasso und Seine Zeit nightlife, 609–612 Dalí, Salvador, Espace Mont- (Berlin), 400–401 organized tours, 606–607 martre Salvadore-Dalí Die Stachelschweine performing arts, 609–610 (Paris), 320 (Berlin), 408 post offices, 586 Davy Byrnes (Dublin), 610 Dingle Peninsula (Ireland), pubs, 610–611 Deacon Brodie’s Tavern 628–632 restaurants, 592–598 (Edinburgh), 860 Dingle’s Oceanworld Aquar- shopping, 607–609 Dean Gallery (Edinburgh), ium (Ireland), 629 sightseeing, 598–609 856 Dingle Town (Ireland), taxes, 586 Dean Village (Edinburgh), 856 629–632 taxis, 584 Debenhams (Edinburgh), 858 Dingle Way (Ireland), 630 telephone, 586 De Bijenkorf (Amsterdam), Dinkelsbühl (Germany), tipping, 586 751 450–451 transportation, 583–584 De Drie Fleschjes (Amster- Diocletian Baths (Rome), 661 traveling to, 578–579, 582 dam), 754 Dipylon Gate (Athens), 491 visitor information, 582–583 Dirleton (Scotland), 861–862 walking tours, 606–607 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:30 AM Page 1052

1052 INDEX

Dublin Castle, 600 Eispalast (Ice Palace; Ferdinandeum Tyrol Museum Dublin Experience, 599 Switzerland), 1034 (Innsbruck), 96 Dublinia (Dublin), 601 El Arco de los Cuchilleros Ferenc Liszt Academy of Dublin Pub (Florence), 688 Artesiana de Hoy Music (Budapest), 572 Dublin Woollen Mills, 609 (Madrid), 918 Ferenczy Museum (Szenten- Dublin Writers Museum, El Corte Inglés (Barcelona), dre), 574 600–601 947 Feria de Sevilla, 19 Dublin Zoo, 605 El Corte Inglés (Madrid), 918 Festas da Senhora da Agonia Dufftown (Scotland), Elektrické dráhy DP (near Porto), 22 891–892 (Prague), 167 Festival d’Avignon, 21 Dunbeg Fort (Ireland), 629 El Escorial Palace, 923 Festival International de Jazz Dundee (Scotland), 882–886 Elia (Mykonos), 531 (Juan-les-Pins), 362 Dundee Law (Scotland), 883 El Rastro (Madrid), 917 Festival International du Dunquin (Ireland), 629 Elsinore (Helsingor; Den- Film (Cannes), 19 Duomo. See Cathedral mark), 216 Festival of Delphi (Greece), English National Opera 517 (London), 257 Festival of the Five-Petaled Eckbauer (Germany), 436 English Theatre (Vienna), 69 Rose (Cesk; Krumlov), 178 Edinburgh, 2, 836–862 Entry requirements, 10–12 Festival Theatre (Edinburgh), accommodations, 842–847 Ephesos-Museum 859 American Express, 841 (Vienna), 63 Festspielhaus (Salzburg), 87 business hours, 841 Epidauros (Greece), 499, Fiddler’s Elbow (Florence), currency and currency 510–512 688 exchange, 841 Episcopal Palace (Augsburg), Fiesole (Italy), 688–689 day trips from, 861–862 456 Fiesta de San Isidro doctors and dentists, 842 Equinox (London), 259 (Madrid), 19 emergencies, 842 Ercolano (Herculaneum; Fine Arts Museum (Bern), festivals, 858–859 Rome), 666 1028 folk music and ceilidhs, 860 Erechtheion (Athens), 488 Finnesloftet (Norway), Internet access, 842 Eremo delle Carceri (Assisi), 787–788 layout of, 840 699–700 Fira (Santorini), 536–537 nightlife, 858–861 Erotica Museum (Copen- Fire Festival Regatta (Silke- organized tours, 857–858 hagen), 211 borg), 22 post offices, 842 Escape (Amsterdam), 756 First Cemetery (Athens), 491 pubs and bars, 860–861 Escorted group tours, 33–35 First Out (London), 259 restaurants, 847–850 Espace Montmartre Sal- Fjerdingen (Tonsberg), 780 shopping, 858 vadore-Dalí (Paris), 320 Fjords (Norway), 786–789 sightseeing, 850–858 Estates’ Theater (Prague), Flåm (Norway), 788 telephones, 842 166, 169 Flamenco, Madrid, 919–920 transportation, 840–841 Estoril (Portugal), 817 Flannery’s Temple Bar traveling to, 836–837 Esztergom (Hungary), (Dublin), 610–611 visitor information, 576–577 Floibanen (Bergen), 785 837, 840 Esztergom Cathedral, 576 Florence, 667–689 Edinburgh Book Festival, 859 Ethnographical Museum accommodations, 673–678 Edinburgh Castle, 852–853 (Budapest), 566 American Express, 671 Edinburgh Festival Fringe, Euro, 14 business hours, 671–672 859 Europa-Center (Berlin), 406 consulates, 672 Edinburgh International Fes- Exit (Amsterdam), 755 currency exchange, 672 tival, 22, 858–859 Exobourgo (Tinos), 539, 543 doctors and dentists, 672 Edinburgh International Film emergencies, 672 Festival, 859 Internet access, 672 Edinburgh Military Tattoo, Fado, Lisbon, 815 layout of, 670–671 859 Fairytale (Athens), 498 nightlife, 687–688 Educational travel, 24 Families with children, 28 police, 672 Eggli (Switzerland), 1044 Farnese Gardens (Rome), post offices, 672 Egon Schiele Foundation and 655 restaurants, 678–681 Egon Schiele Centrum Faro (Portugal), 830–832 safety, 672–673 (Cesk; Krumlov), 181 Fat Mo’s Music Club shopping, 686–687 Egyptian Museum (Berlin), (Budapest), 572 side trip to Fiesole, 400 Faulhorn (Switzerland), 1041 688–689 Eidfjord district (Norway), Feira da Ladra (Lisbon), 813 sightseeing, 681–686 787 Fél 10 Jazz Klub (Budapest), telephone, 673 Eiffel Tower (Paris), 319 572 transportation, 671 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:30 AM Page 1053

INDEX 1053

traveling to, 670 Fungie the Dolphin Tours Geigenbau-und-Heimat- visitor information, 670 (Dingle), 629–630 museum (Mittenwald), 442 Florian (Venice), 708 Fury Murry’s (Glasgow), 877 Gellért Hegy (Gellért Hill; Flower Market (Amsterdam), Füssen (Germany), 457–459 Budapest), 568 752 Gemäldegalerie (Berlin), 398 Fly/drive tours, 33 Gemäldegalerie der FNAC (Madrid), 918 GAA Museum (Dublin), Akademie der Bildenden Focke & Meltzer (Amster- 602 Kunste (Vienna), 66 dam), 751 Galeries Royales St-Hubert Generalife (Granada), 967 Folies-Bergère (Paris), 326 (Brussels), 125 Geneva, 1001–1020 Folkart Centrum (Budapest), Galleria Borghese (Rome), accommodations, 569–570 660 1008–1011 Folk Art Museum (Lisbon), Galleria d’Arte Moderna American Express, 1006 811–812 (Florence), 683 consulates, 1006 Folk Art Museum (Nafplion), Galleria degli Uffizi currency and currency 507 (Florence), 682 exchange, 1006 Fondation Maeght (St-Paul- Galleria del Costume day trips from, 1019–1020 de-Vence), 365–366 (Florence), 683 doctors and dentists, Fontana dell’Ovato (Tivoli), Galleria dell’Accademia 1006–1007 664 (Florence), 682–683 drugstores, 1007 Forêt de Soignes (Brussels), Galleria dell’Accademia layout of, 1002–1003 124 (Venice), 715 nightlife, 1019 Foro Romano (Rome), 655 Galleria Giorgio Franchetti post offices, 1007 Fort of St. Catarina (Portu- (Venice), 716 restaurants, 1011–1015 gal), 824 Galleria Nazionale d’Arte shopping, 1018–1019 Fountain of Peirene Antica (Rome), 660 sightseeing, 1015–1018 (Corinth), 502 Galleria Palatina (Florence), telephones, 1007 Fountain of Sampson (Ceské 683 transportation, 1003, 1006 Budêjovice), 187 Gamla Stan (Old Town; traveling to, 1001–1002 Frammuseet (Oslo), 774 Stockholm), 977 visitor information, 1002 Frangosyriani (Athens), 498 accommodations, 986–987 Geneva, Lake (Switzerland), Frans Halsmuseum (Haar- restaurants, 989–990 1020 lem), 757 sightseeing, 992–993 Gentse Floraliën (Ghent), Frantiskovy Láznê (Franzens- Gamle Bergen, 785 142 bad; Czech Republic), Gamlebyen (Old Town; Georg Jensen (Copenhagen), 189–190 Fredrikstad), 779 214 Frasers (Glasgow), 876 Gampen/Kapall (Austria), 99 German Museum of Master- Frauencafé (Vienna), 71 Gap of Dunloe (Ireland), 615 pieces of Science and Frauenkirche (Munich), 430 Garden on the Ramparts Technology (Munich), 427 Frederick III, Tomb of (Prague), 167 German State Opera Emperor, 66 Gardens of Versailles (Paris), (Berlin), 407 Frederikskirke (Copen- 328 Getreidegasse (Salzburg), 82 hagen), 212–213 Garmisch-Partenkirchen Ghent (Belgium), 139–143 Fredrikstad (Norway), (Germany), 435–441 Giardini di Boboli (Florence), 778–779 The Garrick Inn (Stratford- 683 Fredrikstad Museum upon-Avon), 272 Gilda (Rome), 663 (Norway), 779 München GmbH Giotto’s Bell Tower (Flo- French Riviera, 344 (Munich), 432 rence), 684 Frihedsmuseet (Copen- The Gate (Dublin), 610 Glamis (Dundee), 884–886 hagen), 210–211 Gay and lesbian travelers, 27 Glamis Castle (Dundee), 884 Frilandsmuseet (Copen- Amsterdam, 747, 755–756 Glasgow, 862–878 hagen), 211 Athens, 498 accommodations, 866–870 Fringe Sun (Edinburgh), 859 Barcelona, 950 American Express, 865 Frommers.com, 31 Bern, 1029 business hours, 865 Full-Up (Florence), 688 Brussels, 127–128 currency and currency Fundação Calouste Gul- Dublin, 612 exchange, 865 benkian, Museu de (Lis- London, 235, 259 doctors and dentists, 865 bon), 810, 814 Madrid, 921–922 emergencies, 866 Fundació Antoni Tàpies Munich, 434 Internet access, 866 (Barcelona), 944 Mykonos (Greece), 531 nightlife, 876–878 Fundació Joan Miró Paris, 328 organized tours, 875–876 (Barcelona), 942 Stockholm, 998–999 pharmacies, 866 Vienna, 70–71 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:30 AM Page 1054

1054 INDEX

Glasgow (cont.) Gran Teatre del Liceu Hangursbanen cable car post offices, 866 (Barcelona), 948 (Voss), 787 restaurants, 870–873 Gran Vía (Madrid) Hanseatiske Museum shopping, 876 accommodations, 904–905 (Bergen), 785 sightseeing, 873–876 restaurants on or near, 907 Hardangervidda National transportation, 864–865 shopping, 917 Park (Norway), 787 traveling to, 862–864 Graslei (Ghent), 142 Harrods (London), 254 visitor information, 864 Grave Circle A (Mycenae), Hathaway, Anne, Cottage Glasgow Necropolis, 875 510 (Stratford-upon-Avon), 273 Glasgow Royal Concert Hall, Greek Folk Art Museum Haugar cemetery (Tonsberg), 877 (Athens), 492 780 Glasgow Science Centre, 873 Greek National Opera Haus der Musik (Vienna), 66 Glenbeigh (Ireland), 622 (Athens), 497 Havana (Lisbon), 816 Gleneagles (Scotland), Green Park (London), 252 Havelsk; trh (Havel’s Mar- 878–880 Grieghallen (Grieg Hall; ket; Prague), 168 Glenfarclas Distillery (Scot- Bergen), 786 Health concerns, 25 land), 892 Grindelwald (Switzerland), Health insurance, 26 Glenfiddich Distillery (Scot- 1039–1041 Heilig-Bloedbasiliek land), 891 Gripsholm Castle (Sweden), (Bruges), 135 Glenlivet (Scotland), 892 1000 Heimatmuseum (Kitzbühel), Glenlivet Distillery (Scot- Groeninge Museum 101 land), 892 (Bruges), 136 Heimatmuseum (Ober- Glenturret Distillery Ltd Gröna Lunds Tivoli (Stock- ammergau), 443 (Scotland), 881 holm), 995 Heimen Husflid (Oslo), 777 Glockenspiel (Munich), 426 Grosse Scheidegg (Switzer- Heineken Experience Glockenspiel (Salzburg), 83 land), 1041 (Amsterdam), 748 (Munich), 427 Grote Kerk (Haarlem), Heinen (Amsterdam), 751 Goldenes Dachl (Inns- 757 Hellenic American Union bruck), 95 Grote Vijver (Amsterdam), Auditorium (Athens), 497 Golden House of Nero 750 Hellenic Festival, 20 (Rome), 655–656 Gruuthuse Museum (Bruges), Helsingør (Elsinore; Den- Golden Lane (Zlatá ulicka; 136 mark), 216–217 Prague), 163 Gstaad (Switzerland), Henie-Onstad Kunstsenter Golden Roof (Innsbruck), 95 1043–1044 (Oslo), 776 Gothic Room (Bruges), 136 Gudvangen (Norway), 788 Heraldic Artists (Dublin), 608 Gotische Zaal (Bruges), 136 Guggenheim, Peggy, Herculaneum (Italy), 666 Goulandris Foundation Collezione (Venice), Herend Shop (Budapest), 570 Museum of Cycladic Art 715–716 Hermes of Praxiteles (Athens), 491–492 Guinness Storehouse (Olympia), 515 Gråbrodretorv (Copenhagen), (Dublin), 602 Heroes’ Square (Budapest), accommodations, 206 Gurten, Mont (Switzerland), 566 Grafton Street (Dublin), 607 1027 Herrenchiemsee (Germany), Grampian (Scotland), 878 Gypsy caves of Sacromonte 435 Granada (Spain), 964–968 (Granada), 968 Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse Granazi (Athens), 498 (Innsbruck), 95 Grand Canal (Canal Grande; Het Gravensteen (Ghent), Venice), 713 Haarlem (the Nether- 140 Grand Carroi (Chinon), 342 lands), 757–758 Het Huyten Huys (Amster- Grand Casino Kursaal Bern Hadrian’s Villa (near Tivoli), dam), 747 (Switzerland), 1029–1030 665 High Kirk of St. Giles Grande Corniche (France), Halada (Prague), 168 (Edinburgh), 851 345 Half-Moon Brewery Highland Games & Gather- Grandhotel Pupp (Karlovy (Bruges), 137–138 ing (Braemar, Scotland), 22 Vary), 176 Half Note Jazz Club Hiking and walking, 23 Grand-Place (Brussels), 105 (Athens), 498 Hippodrome (London), 259 accommodations around, Hall of Mirrors (Paris), 328 The Hirschsprung Collection 112–113 Halloween (Brussels), 128 (Copenhagen), 210 sightseeing, 119–121 Hall’s Croft (Stratford-upon- Historical Museum (the Vati- Grands Appartements Avon), 273 can), 654 (Paris), 328 Hamilton & Inches (Edin- Historic Tram Tour (Prague), Grand Théâtre de Genève burgh), 858 167 (Geneva), 1019 Hampton Court Palace (Eng- Historiska Museet (Stock- Grand Trianon (Paris), 328 land), 260 holm), 993 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:30 AM Page 1055

INDEX 1055

Hjomo Valley (Norway), 787 Hradcany (Castle District; International Film Festival HM Frigate Unicorn Prague), 148 Karlovy Vary (Czech (Dundee), 883–884 accommodations, 156 Republic), 173 Hofbraühaus am Platzl restaurants, 161 International Music Festival (Munich), 433 Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery (Vienna), 19 Hofburg (Innsbruck), 95–96 of Modern Art (Dublin), International Red Cross and Hofburg Palace Complex 601 Red Crescent Museum (Vienna), 62–65 Humlebaek (Denmark), 216 (Geneva), 1017 (Innsbruck), 96 Hungarian National Gallery Irish Cat Pub (Budapest), 572 Hofkirche (Innsbruck), 96 (Budapest), 566 Irish Film Centre (Dublin), Hofmusikkapelle (Vienna), Hungarian National Museum 604 62–63 (Budapest), 565–566 Irish Museum of Modern Art Höhenpromenade (Inter- Hungarian State Opera (IMMA; Dublin), 604 laken), 1033 House (Budapest), The Irish White House Hohensalzburg Fortress 566–567, 571–572 (Dublin), 599 (Salzburg), 84, 87 Hunterian Art Gallery (Glas- IT (Amsterdam), 755 Hohenschwangau (Ger- gow), 874 Iveagh Gardens (Dublin), 605 many), 460 Hyde Park (London), 252 Iveragh Peninsula (Ireland), Höheweg (Interlaken), 1033 620–625 Holland Casino Zandvoort (the Netherlands), 758 I a (Santorini), 537 Holló Folkart Gallery IJsselmeer (the Nether- James Joyce Centre (Budapest), 570 lands), 759 (Dublin), 602–603 Holmenkollen Ski Festival Il Campo (Siena), 690 James Pringle Woollen Mill (Oslo), 18 Ilha de Armona (Portugal), (Edinburgh), 858 Holy Apostles (Athens), 490 832 Jane Austen Centre (Bath), Holy Rood Chapel (near Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry 286 Prague), 170 Museum (Athens), 493 Jardin Albert-1er (Nice), 369 Holyroodhouse, Palace of Il Palio (Siena), 21 Jardin Botanique (Geneva), (Edinburgh), 853 Il Piccolo Mondo (Venice), 1018 Holy Week, 19 719 Jardin des Tuileries (Paris), Homomonument (Amster- IMMA (Irish Museum of 321 dam), 747 Modern Art; Dublin), Jardin du Luxembourg Hopetoun House (Linlith- 604 (Paris), 321 gow), 861 Imperial Apartments Jardin Exotique (Monaco), Hoppe (Amsterdam), 754 (Vienna), 62 375 Horseback riding, 23–24 Imperial Treasury Jazzclub Unterfahrt Hortus Botanicus (Amster- (Vienna), 62 (Munich), 432 dam), 748 Inch Strand (Ireland), 630 Jazzland (Vienna), 69–70 Hortus Botanicus (Leiden), In de Wildeman (Amster- Jenners (Edinburgh), 858 761 dam), 754 Jerónimos Monastery Hósök tere (Budapest), 566 Innisfallen (Ireland), 614 (Lisbon), 810 Hot Clube de Portugal Innisfallen Island (Ireland), Jesurum (Venice), 718 (Lisbon), 816 616 Jewish Ghetto (Rome), Hôtel des Invalides (Paris), Innsbruck, 88–102 restaurants near, 647 319–320 accommodations, 91–93 Jewish Museum (Prague), 163 Hôtel de Ville (Brussels), banks and currency Joalharia do Carmo (Lisbon), 120–121 exchange, 91 813 Hotel R*ze (Hotel Rose; layout of, 90 Joods Historisch Museum Cesk; Krumlov), 180–181 nightlife, 97–98 (Amsterdam), 744 Hotel Thermal (Karlovy post offices, 91 Jordaan (Amsterdam), 728 Vary), 176 restaurants, 93–94 accommodations, 734 The House of Art (Athens), shopping, 96–97 Josefov (Prague) 498 sightseeing, 94–96 accommodations, 153–154 House of Livia (Rome), 655 telephone, 91 restaurants, 157–159 House of Mysteries transportation, 90–91 Joyce, James, Centre (Pompeii), 667 traveling to, 90 (Dublin), 602 House of the Faun (Pompeii), visitor information, 90 The Joyce Tower Museum 667 Insurance, 25–26 (Dublin), 603 House of Vettii (Pompeii), Interlaken (Switzerland), Joy Eslava (Madrid), 920 667 1030–1035 Juan-les-Pins (France), Houses of Parliament (Lon- International Film Festival 362–363 don), 245, 248 (Cannes), 358 Jubilee Market (London), 255 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:30 AM Page 1056

1056 INDEX

Judisches Museum Berlin, Kersenbloesempark (Amster- Koumaros (Tinos), 544 402 dam), 750 Központi Vásárcsarnok Jungfraujoch (Switzerland), Killarney National Park (Ire- (Budapest), 570 1034 land), 613, 614, 617, 621 KPM (Berlin), 407 Jury’s Irish Cabaret (Dublin), Killarney Town (Ireland), Královská zahrada 609 612–620 (Prague), 167 J. W. Ryan (Dublin), 611 Killorglin (Ireland), 621 Královsk; palác (the Royal Kilmainham Gaol Historical Palace; Prague), 163 Museum (Dublin), 601 Kriminal Museum (Rothen- KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Kilmurray Bay at Minard burg ob der Tauber), 450 Westens; Berlin), 407 (Ireland), 630 Kronborg Slot (Denmark), Kaiserappartements Kincstár (Esztergom), 576 217 (Vienna), 62 Kindermuseum TM Junior Krumlovsk; Ml;n (The Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial (Amsterdam), 746 Krumlov Mill; Cesk; Church (Berlin) Kinderzeche (Dinkelsbühl), Krumlov), 181 accommodations near, 450–451 Kungliga Slottet (Stock- 389–390 King Matthias Museum holm), 992–993 restaurant near, 394 (Visegrád), 575 Kungsholmen (Stockholm), Kaknästornet (Stockholm), King’s Theatre (Edinburgh), 977 995 859 Kunst & Antiekcentrum de Kalafati (Greece), 528 Kinsk; Palace (Prague), 165 Looier (Amsterdam), 752 Kalafati (Mykonos), 531 Kionia (Tinos), 545 Kunstgewerbe Museum Kalo Livadi (Mykonos), 531 Kitzbühel Alps (Austria), (Berlin), 403 Kamari (Santorini), 537 99–102 Kunsthalle Wien (Cutting), 65 Kandersteg (Switzerland), Kitzbühel Ski Circus, 101 Kunsthistorisches Museum 1041–1043 Kláster sv. Anezky ceské (Vienna), 67 Kantcentrum (Bruges), 136 (Prague), 164 Kunstmuseum (Bern), 1028 Kapital (Madrid), 920–921 Kláster sv. Jirí na Prazském Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm; Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad; hradê (Prague), 165 Berlin), 382, 406 Czech Republic), 172–177 Klötzlikeller (Bern), 1029 accommodations on or Karlovy Vary International Klus Gorge (Switzerland), near, 385, 388–389 Film Festival, 20 1042–1043 restaurants on or near, Karlstejn Castle (near Knaack-Klub (Berlin), 409 392–394 Prague), 170 Knightsbridge (London) (Munich), 415 accommodations, 231–232 Károly kert (Budapest), 568 restaurants, 240–242 Laboratorio Artigiano Kasna Herkules (Cheb), 190 shopping, 254 Maschere (Venice), 719 Käthe-Kollwitz Museum Knockreer (Ireland), 614 Lace Center (Bruges), 136 (Berlin), 402 Kolimbithres (Tinos), 545 La Condamine (Monaco), 374 Kato Myli (Mykonos), 530 Kolonaki (Athens) La Fenice (Venice), 719 Kavárna Obecní d*m accommodations, 475–476 La Giralda (Seville), 959 (Prague), 160 restaurants, 482–484 Lagos (Portugal), 819–821 Kavárna (Cafe) Slavia shopping, 495 L’Alibi (Rome), 664 (Prague), 160 Komische Oper Berlin, Lambda (Athens), 498 Keith (Scotland), 891 407–408 Lambert van Meerten Kenmare (Ireland), 621, 625 Kongens Nytorv (Copen- (Delft), 760 Kennemer Duinen (Zand- hagen) Lamb & Flag (London), 258 voort), 758 accommodations near, La Moreneta (Montserrat), Kensington (London) 200–201 952 restaurant, 242 restaurants near, 203–204 Landestheater (Innsbruck), 97 shopping, 255 Kongsten Fort (Fredrikstad), Landhuis van het Brugse Kensington Gardens 779 Vrije (Bruges), 135 (London), 252 Koninklijke Porceleyne Fles Lapa Palace (Lisbon), 2, 801 Kensington Palace (London), (Delft), 760 La Pedrera (Barcelona), 943 251 Koninklijk Paleis (Amster- L’Aquàrium (Barcelona), 943 Keramikos, Cemetery of dam), 747 L’Arbre d’Or (Brussels), 120 (Athens), 491 Koninklijk Theater Carré Largo da Sé (Faro), 831 Keresztény Múzeum (Eszter- (Amsterdam), 753 Largo das Portas do Sol (Lis- gom), 576–577 Kon-Tiki Museum (Oslo), 774 bon), 808 Kerry, County (Ireland), Kontoret Pub (Bergen), 786 La Rinascente (Rome), 662 612–632 Korfos Bay (Mykonos), 531 La Sagrada Família Kerry the Kingdom (Tralee), Kostel sv. Jirí (St. George’s (Barcelona), 942 626–627 Basilica; Prague), 163 La Scala (Milan), 22–23 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:30 AM Page 1057

INDEX 1057

L’Atelier Brancusi (Paris), 317 embassies and consulates, London Zoo, 252 Laterna Magika (Prague), 169 795–796 The Long Hall (Dublin), 611 Latin Quarter (Paris), 321 emergencies, 796 Longleat House (Warmin- La Torre di Pisa (Leaning hospitals, 796 ster), 286 Tower), 692, 693 layout of, 792 Loos American Bar L’Auditori (Barcelona), 949 native behavior, 807 (Vienna), 69 Lavandaria (Lisbon), nightlife, 814 Lord’s Tower (Cannes), 361 813–814 organized tours, 812–813 Lost-luggage insurance, 26 Lázenská Kolonáda (Marián- port wine tasting, 816 Louisiana Museum of Mod- ské Láznê), 185 post offices, 796 ern Art (Denmark), 216 Leaning Tower of Pisa, restaurants, 802–807 Loutra (Tinos), 544 692, 693 safety, 796 Louvre Museum (Paris), 316 Le Château (Nice), 369 shopping, 813 Lower Grindelwald Glacier Le Cygne (Brussels), 120 sightseeing, 807–813 (Switzerland), 1040 Le Fleur en Papier Doré taxes, 796 (Brussels), 128 telephone, 796–797 Leicester Square (London), tipping, 797 Måbo Valley (Norway), 787 restaurants, 236–237 transit information, 797 Mackintosh Shop (Glasgow), Leiden (the Netherlands), transportation, 794–795 876 761–762 traveling to, 790–792 Madame Tussauds (London), Leiden American Pilgrim visitor information, 792 249 Museum, 762 weather reports, 797 Madeira House (Lisbon), 813 Leidseplein (Amsterdam), 727 Little Venice (Mykonos), 530 Madrid, 2, 893–925 accommodations, 735 Locanda Cipriani (Venice), accommodations, 900–907 nightlife, 754, 756 720–721 American Express, 898 restaurants, 740 Loch Ness monster (Scot- consulates, 898–899 Leonidaion (Olympia), 516 land), 890 day trips from, 922–925 Leopold Museum (Vienna), 65 Lodewijkskerk (Leiden), doctors and dentists, 899 Le Papagayo (St-Tropez), 358 761–762 emergencies, 899 Le Petit Train de Montmartre Loewe (Madrid), 918 gay and lesbian clubs and (Paris), 320 Loggia dei Lanzi (Florence), cafes, 921–922 Le Pigeonnier (St-Tropez), 681 layout of, 894–895 358 Loire Valley (France), nightlife, 918–922 Le Pulp (Paris), 328 329–344 organized tours, 917 Le Roy d’Espagne (Brussels), London, 218–261 post offices, 899 128 accommodations, 225–235 restaurants, 907–913 Les Alyscamps (Arles), 352 afternoon tea, 241 safety, 899 Les Baux (France), 350 American Express, 223 shopping, 917–918 Les Caves du Roy (St- business hours, 223 sightseeing, 913–917 Tropez), 358 day trips from, 260–261 tapas, 908 Les Grands Appartements du doctors and dentists, 223 taxes, 900 Palais (Monaco), 375 embassies and high com- telephone, 900 Les Thermes Marins de missions, 223 tipping, 900 Monte-Carlo (Monaco), emergencies, 224 transportation, 895, 898 376 gay and lesbian travelers, traveling to, 893–894 Le VIP Room (St-Tropez), 358 235, 259 visitor information, 894 Lia (Mykonos), 531 hospitals, 224 Magdalen College (Oxford), Liebfrauenkirche (Kitzbühel), layout of, 220–221 266 101 nightlife, 255–260 Maggio Musicale Fiorentino Linlithgow (Scotland), 861 organized tours, 253 (Florence), 20, 687 Linlithgow Palace (Scotland), post offices, 224 Magna Plaza (Amsterdam), 861 pubs, 258 751 Linnaeus Garden & Museum restaurants, 235–244 Magyar Allami Operaház (Uppsala), 1000 shopping, 253 (Budapest), 566–567, Linn of Dee (Braemar), 887 sightseeing, 244–253 571–572 Lipizzaner Museum (Vienna), taxes, 224 Maherabeg Beach (Ireland), 64–65 telephone, 224 630 Lisbon, 2, 790–818 tipping, 224–225 Maisel Synagogue (Prague), accommodations, 797–802 transportation, 221–222 163 American Express, 795 traveling to, 218–219 Maison de Radio France business hours, 795 visitor information, (Paris), 326 doctors and dentists, 795 219–220 Maison des Ducs de Brabant London Coliseum, 257 (Brussels), 120 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:30 AM Page 1058

1058 INDEX

Maison du Roi (Brussels), 120 Matthias Church (Budapest), Mirabell Palace (Salzburg), 85 Maison Tavel (Geneva), 1016 567–568 Mister B’s (Munich), 432 Málaga (Spain), 968–970 Mátyás Templom (Budapest), Mittenwald (Germany), Malá Strana (Lesser Town; 567–568 441–442 Prague), 148 Maximilianeum (Inns- Ml;nská Kolonáda (Karlovy accommodations, 155–156 bruck), 95 Vary), 176 Malá Strana (Prague), Maximilianstrasse (Munich), Moderna Museet (Stock- restaurants, 159–161 415 holm), 994 Malt Whisky Trail (Scotland), Max-Joseph-Platz (Munich), Moll’s Gap (Ireland), 621 890 415 Monaco, 372–377 Manneken-Pis (Brussels), 120 Mayfair (London) Monaco-Ville, 374 Männlichen (Switzerland), accommodations, 225, 228 Monaghan’s (Dublin), 609 1041 restaurants, 235–236 Monastère de St-Paul-de- Marbella (Spain), 970–972 McLellan Galleries (Glas- Mausole (St-Rémy-de- Marciano Museum (Venice), gow), 874 Provence), 349 714 Mêstské Muzeum (Marián- Monasterio de las Descalzas Mareta (Sagres), 823 ské Láznê), 185 Reales (Madrid), 915 Margit Kovács Museum Medical insurance, 26 Monastiraki Square (Athens) (Szentendre), 574 Medici Chapels (Florence), accommodations near, Margit-sziget (Margaret 683 473–474 Island; Budapest), 568 Megali Ammos (Mykonos), restaurants, 481–482 Maria Christina, Tomb of 530 Mönchsberg (Salzburg), (Vienna), 64 Megaron Gyzi Museum 82, 85 Mariakirke (Bergen), 785 (Santorini), 537 MoneyGram, 15 Marians Jazzroom (Bern), Megaron Mousikis Concert Money matters, 13–16 1029 Hall (Athens), 496 Mont Blanc (France), 1020 Mariánské Láznê (Marienbad; Melkweg (Amsterdam), 756 Monte Carlo (Monaco), 372, Czech Republic), 182–185 Memling Museum (Bruges), 374–375 Maria-Theresien-Strasse 136–137 Monte-Carlo Beach (Innsbruck), 94 Memorial des Martyrs (Monaco), 375 Marienbad (Mariánské Láznê; Français de la Déportation Monte-Carlo Beach Club, Czech Republic), 182–185 (Paris), 318 375–376 (Munich), 426 Mercantile (Dublin), 610 Monte-Carlo Casino Maritime Museum (Amster- Mercato Centrale (Mercato (Monaco), 376 dam), 745–746 San Lorenzo; Florence), 687 Monte Carlo Golf Club Maritime Museum accommodations near, (Monaco), 376 (Barcelona), 944–945 674–675 Monte Gordo (Portugal), Maritime Museum (Lisbon), restaurants near, 678–679 834–835 811 Mercedes Rex (Athens), 498 Montmartre (Paris), 320–321 Maritime Museum, Norwe- The Mercerie (Venice), 718 Montreux International Jazz gian (Oslo), 775 Merton College (Oxford), 266 Festival, 21 Marken (the Netherlands), Metamorphosis, Catholic Montserrat (Spain), 951–952 758–759 Church of the (Nafplion), Montserrat Monastery Marker Museum (Marken), 507 (Spain), 951 759 Metropole (Berlin), 410 Monument à Colom Märkisches Museum (Berlin), Mezquita-Catedral (Cór- (Barcelona), 943 402 doba), 963 Monumento dos Descobri- Marstallmuseum (Munich), Michaelskirche (Munich), 430 mentos (Monument of the 429 Michelangelo, 63, 137, Discoveries; Lisbon), 811 Martini Scala Club (Venice), 688, 757 Morrison’s Music Pub 719 in Florence, 681–683, (Budapest), 572 Mary Arden’s House (Strat- 685, 686 Mortlach Parish Church ford-upon-Avon), 273 in Rome and the Vatican, (Dufftown), 891 Marylebone (London) 644, 651, 654–656, Moser (Karlovy Vary), 177 accommodations, 233–234 659, 661 Moser (Prague), 168 restaurants, 243 Michelangelo’s dome (the Mossy Woods Nature Trail Matisse, Henri Vatican), 654 (Ireland), 617 Chapelle du Rosaire (St- Millesgården (near Stock- Mosteiro dos Jerónimos Paul-de-Vence), 366 holm), 994–995 (Lisbon), 810 Musée Matisse (Cimiez), Mini-Europe (Brussels), 123 Moulin Rouge (Paris), 326 370 Minor Fortress (Terezín), 171 Moyenne Corniche (France), Matoyanni (Mykonos), 525 Mirabell-Garten (Mirabell 345 Gardens; Salzburg), 85 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:30 AM Page 1059

INDEX 1059

Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus, Musée d’Art et d’Histoire Museo degli Argenti 166, 169 (Geneva), 1016–1017 (Florence), 683 Bertramka (W. A. Mozart Musée d’Art Moderne (Brus- Museo de la Alhambra Museum; Prague), sels), 122 (Granada), 967 165–166 Musée de Cire (Chenon- Museo de la Bellas Artes en Geburtshaus (Mozart’s ceaux), 340 la Alhambra (Granada), 967 Birthplace; Salzburg), 84 Musée de Cluny (Paris), 321 Museo delle Porcellane Wohnhaus (Mozart Resi- Musée de la Castre (Florence), 683 dence; Salzburg), 84–85 (Cannes), 361 Museo dell’Opera del Mozarteum (Salzburg), 87 Musée de la Devinière Duomo (Florence), 686 Mozartplatz (Salzburg), 82 (Chinon), 342 Museo del Prado (Madrid), Muckross (Ireland), 614 Musée de l’Annonciade 914 Muckross Abbey (Ireland), (Musée St-Tropez), 357 Museo di San Marco (Flo- 615 Musée de la Ville de Brux- rence), 684 Muckross House and Gar- elles (Brussels), 121 Museo Lázaro Galdiano dens (Ireland), 615 Musée de l’Océanographie (Madrid), 915–916 Muckross Traditional Farms (Monaco), 375 Museo Missionario Frances- (Ireland), 615–616 Musée des Beaux-Arts cano Fiesole, 689 Mucros Craft Centre (Killar- (Nice), 369–370 Museo Municipal de Arte ney), 618 Musée des Beaux-Arts Taurino (Córdoba), 964 MUMOK (Museum of Mod- (Tours), 332 Museo Nacional Centro de ern Art Ludwig Founda- Musée d’Orsay (Paris), Arte Reina Sofía (Madrid), tion; Vienna), 65 1, 316–317 914 Munch Museum (Oslo), 775 Musée du Cinquantenaire Museo Nazionale del Münchner Philharmoniker (Brussels), 122 Bargello (Florence), (Munich), 432 Musée du Costume et de la 683–684 Munich, 411–444 Dentelle (Brussels), 121 Museo Nazionale di San accommodations, 417–421 Musée du Louvre (Paris), 316 Matteo (Pisa), 694 American Express, 416 Musée du Palais du Prince Museo Nazionale di Villa Giu- beer halls, 433 (Monaco), 375 lia (Etruscan; Rome), 660 bicycling, 416, 431 Musée Horta (Brussels), 121 Museo Nazionale Romano business hours, 416 Musée Ile-de-France (St- (Rome), 660–661 consulates, 416 Jean-Cap-Ferrat), 371 Museo Santa Cruz (Toledo), day trips from, 435 Musée International d’Art 923 doctors and dentists, 417 Naïf Anatole-Jakovsky Museo Storico (the Vatican), drugstores, 417 (Nice), 370 654 gay and lesbian clubs, 434 Musée International de la Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza layout of, 415 Croix Rouge et du Crois- (Madrid), 914 nightlife, 431–434 sant-Rouge (Geneva), 1017 Museu Barbier-Mueller organized tours, 430–431 Musée Matisse (Cimiez), 370 (Barcelona), 944 post offices, 417 Musée National d’Art Mod- Museu Cau Ferrat (Sitges), restaurants, 421–425 erne (Paris), 317 951 shopping, 431 Musée National du Moyen Museu da Marinha (Lisbon), sightseeing, 425–431 Age (Paris), 321 811 telephone, 417 Musée Wellington (Water- Museu d’Art Contemporàni transportation, 415–416 loo), 130 (MACBA; Barcelona), 945 traveling to, 414 Musées Royaux des Beaux- Museu d’Art Modern del visitor information, Arts (Brussels), 121–122 MNAC (Barcelona), 945 414–415 Museo Archeologico (Flo- Museu de Arte Popular (Lis- Municipal Museum (Lagos), rence), 686 bon), 811–812 821 Museo Arqueológico Museu de Fundaçao Murano (Italy), 719–720 Nacional (Madrid), 915 Calouste Gulbenkian (Lis- Mürren (Switzerland), Museo Capitolino (Rome), bon), 810, 814 1035–1037 656, 659–660 Museu de Montserrat Mürren-Allmendhubel Cable- Museo Civico (San (Spain), 952 way (Switzerland), 1036 Gimignano), 696 Museu d’Historia de la Ciu- Musée Ariana (Geneva), Museo Civico (Siena), 690 tat (Barcelona), 944 1016 Museo Civico Correr Museu Frederic Marés Musée d’Anthropologie (Venice), 716 (Barcelona), 944 Préhistorique (Monaco), Museo de Bellas Artes Museum Amstelkring 375 (Córdoba), 963 (Amsterdam), 744 Musée d’Art Ancien (Brus- Museo de Bellas Artes de Museu Maricel de Mar (Sit- sels), 121–122 Sevilla (Seville), 960 ges), 951 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:30 AM Page 1060

1060 INDEX

Museu Marítim (Barcelona), Museum Van Loon (Amster- Nationalmuseet (Copen- 944–945 dam), 745 hagen), 210 Museum Carolino Augus- Museum voor Schone Kun- National Museum (Copen- teum (Salzburg), 85 sten (Ghent), 142 hagen), 210 Museum für Gegenwart Museum Willet-Holthuysen National Museum (Dublin), Hamburger Bahnhof (Amsterdam), 745 602 (Berlin), 402–403 Museu Nacional d’Art de Nationalmuseum (Stock- Museum Haus am Check- Catalunya (MNAC; holm), 993–994 point Charlie (Berlin), 403 Barcelona), 945 National Museum of Ancient Museum Het Rembrandthuis Museu Nacional de Arte Art (Lisbon), 810 (Amsterdam), 745 Antiga (Lisbon), 810 National Museum of Modern Museum of Applied Arts Museu Nacional dos Coches Art (Paris), 317 (Berlin), 403 (Lisbon), 810–811 National Museums of Scot- Museum of Art and History Museu Picasso (Barcelona), land (NMS; Edinburgh), (Geneva), 1016–1017 942–943 854–855 Museum of Art History Musical July Festival (Epi- National Portrait Gallery (Vienna), 67 dauros), 511 (London), 251 Museum of Childhood (Edin- Musikverein (Vienna), 69 Nationaltheater (Munich), burgh), 851 Muziekgebouw (Amster- 432 The Museum of Childhood dam), 2, 754 National Theater (Oslo), 777 (Nafplion), 507 Muziektheater (Amsterdam), National Theater (Prague), Museum of Danish Resis- 753 169 tance, 1940-45 (Copen- Mycenae (Greece), 508–510 National Theater Ballet hagen), 210–211 Mykonos (Greece), 521, (Prague), 169 Museum of Edinburgh, 524–532 National Trust for Scotland 852 Shop (Glasgow), 876 Museum of Fine Arts National Trust Shop (Strat- (Ghent), 142 Nachtcafé (Munich), 434 ford-upon-Avon), 275 Museum of Folklore Nachtwerk (Munich), 432 Natural History Museum (Mykonos), 530 Nafplion (Greece), 503–506 (Dublin), 603–604 Museum of Greek Popular The Nafplion Archaeological Nautical Museum of the Musical Instruments Museum, 507 Aegean (Mykonos), 530 (Athens), 493 Nag’s Head (London), 258 Naval Museum (Santorini), Museum of London, 251 Naïve Art, Museum of (Nice), 537 Museum of Modern Art 370 Near East Museum (Berlin), (Stockholm), 994 Napoléon’s Tomb (Paris), 398–399 Museum of Naïve Art (Nice), 319–320 Neary’s (Dublin), 611 370 Národní divadlo (Prague), Nefertiti, Queen (Berlin), 400 Museum of National Antiqui- 169 Nemzeti Galéria (Budapest), ties (Stockholm), 993 Národní Galerie (Prague), 566 Museum of Panormian 164 Nemzeti Múzeum Artists (Tinos), 544 Národní hrbitov (Terezín), (Budapest), 565–566 Museum of Prehistoric Thira 171 Néprajzi Múzeum (Santorini), 537 The National Archaeological (Budapest), 566 Museum of the City of Brus- Museum (Athens), 491 Netherbow Arts Centre sels, 121 National Ballet (Amster- (Edinburgh), 859 Museum of the Ghetto dam), 753 Netherlands Chamber (Terezín), 171 National Botanic Gardens Orchestra (Amsterdam), Museum of the Olympic (Dublin), 606 753 Games (Olympia), 516 National Cemetery (Terezín), Netherlands Dance Theater Museum of Transport (Glas- 171 (Amsterdam), 753 gow), 874 National Concert Hall Netherlands Opera (Amster- Museum of Yiannoulis (Dublin), 609–610 dam), 753 Chalepas (Tinos), 544 National Gallery (Dublin), Netherlands Philharmonic Museumplein (Amsterdam), 601–602 Orchestra (Amsterdam), 727 National Gallery (London), 753 accommodations, 736 250 Neue Hofburg (Vienna), 63 Museumsinsel (Berlin), 382, National Gallery (Prague), Neue Nationalgalerie 398–400 164, 165 (Berlin), 398 Museumsquartier Complex National Gallery, Hungarian (Munich), (Vienna), 65 (Budapest), 566 427 Museu Municipal Dr. José National Gallery of Scotland Neues Rathaus (New City Formosinho (Lagos), 821 (Edinburgh), 854 Hall; Munich), 426 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:30 AM Page 1061

INDEX 1061

Neues Schloss (Germany), Oceanário de Lisboa (Lis- Oslo, 763–780 435 bon), 811 accommodations, 770–772 Neuschwanstein (Germany), Octagonal Hall (Rome), 661 American Express, 768 457, 459–460 Odeon (Amsterdam), 756 business hours, 769 New National Gallery O’Donoghue’s (Dublin), 611 currency and currency (Berlin), 398 Oeschinensee (Switzerland), exchange, 769 New Place/Nash’s House 1042 day trips from, 778–780 (Stratford-upon-Avon), Oia (Santorini), 537 doctors and dentists, 769 273–274 Okresní Muzeum (Cesk; embassies and consulates, Nice (France), 366–371 Krumlov), 180 769 Nice Lawn Tennis Club Oktoberfest (Munich), 22 emergencies, 769 (France), 370 Ölbergkapelle (Ölberg Internet access, 769 Nieuwe Kerk (Amsterdam), Chapel; Kitzbühel), 101 layout of, 764 747 Old Boat House Nature Trail nightlife, 777–778 Nieuwe Kerk (Delft), 760 (Ireland), 617 organized tours, 776 Nobel Peace Prize Ceremony Old Customs House post offices, 769–770 (Oslo), 23 (Lagos), 821 restaurants, 772–774 Nordbyen (Tonsberg), 780 Olde Macs (Tralee), 628 safety, 770 Nordiska Museet (Stock- Old Jameson Distillery shopping, 776–777 holm), 992 (Dublin), 604 sightseeing, 774–776 Nördlingen (Germany), Old Jewish Cemetery taxes, 770 452–454 (Prague), 164 telephone, 770 Norsk Folkemuseum (Oslo), Old Man’s (Budapest), 572 tipping, 770 775 Old Market (Brussels), 126 visitor information, 764 Norsk Sjofartsmuseum Old-New Synagogue Oslo Card (Oslo-Kortet), (Oslo), 775 (Staronová synagoga; 765, 768 Northern Peloponnese Prague), 163–164 Oslo Konserthus, 777 (Greece), 500–516 Old Sarum (England), 279 Österreichische Galerie Norwegian Folk Museum Old Town Weaving Company Belvedere (Vienna), 67 (Oslo), 778 (Edinburgh), 858 Ostia Antica (Italy), 665–666 Norwegian Maritime Olhao (Portugal), 831–832 Otto Zutz (Barcelona), Museum (Oslo), 775 Oliver St. John Gogarty 949–950 Notre-Dame (Paris), 318 (Dublin), 611 Oude Kerk (Amsterdam), Notre-Dame, Cathédrale Oltrarno (Florence), 670 747–748 (Avignon), 348 accommodations, 677–678 Oude Kerk (Delft), 760 Notre-Dame de Chartres, Olympia (Greece), 512–516 Our Dynamic Earth (Edin- Cathédrale, 329 Olympia Theater (Athens), burgh), 854 Notre-Dame du Sablon 497 Our Lady of Good Tidings (Brussels), 124 Olympic Games, Museum of (Tinos), 543 Notting Hill (London), shop- the (Olympia), 516 Our Lady of the Postern ping, 255 Olympic Ice Stadium Gate (Mykonos), 530 Notting Hill Gate (London), (Garmisch-Partenkirchen), Outlook Tower (Edinburgh), restaurant, 243 439 854 Nové Mêsto (New Town; Omonia Square (Athens), Oxford (England), 261–267 Prague), 148 restaurants around, 484 Oxymoron (Berlin), 409 accommodations, 154–155 100 Club (London), 257–258 restaurants, 159 Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk N. P. Goulandris Foundation (Bruges), 137 Package tours, 33 Museum of Cycladic Art Open-Air Museum (Copen- Paddington (London), (Athens), 491–492 hagen), 211 accommodations, 233 Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek Openluchttheater (Open-Air Palace of Holyroodhouse (Copenhagen), 210 Theater; Amsterdam), 750 (Edinburgh), 853 Nyhavn (Copenhagen) Opera, London, 257 Palace of the Liberty of accommodations near, Opéra Bastille (Paris), 325 Bruges, 135 200–201 Opéra de Monte-Carlo Palácio de Queluz (Portugal), restaurants near, 203–204 (Monaco), 377 817–818 Nymphenburger Porzellan- Opéra de Nice, 371 Palacio Gaviria (Madrid), 921 manufaktur (Munich), 431 Opéra Garnier (Paris), 326 Palácio Nacional da Pena Operahuset (Stockholm), 997 (Sintra), 818 Opernschänke (Berlin), 409 Palácio Nacional de Sintra Oberammergau (Ger- Orloj (Astronomical Clock; (Portugal), 818 many), 442–444 Prague), 165 Palacio Real. See Royal Obuda (Budapest), 551, 552 Ornos Bay (Greece), 528 Palace 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:31 AM Page 1062

1062 INDEX

Palacios Nazaríes (Granada), Paris, 1, 289–329 Peloponnesian Folklore 966–967 accommodations, 297–305 Foundation (Nafplion), 507 Palác Kinsk;ch (Prague), 165 American Express, 295 Penina (Portugal), 826 Pala d’Oro (Venice), 714 arrondissements in brief, The People’s Story (Edin- Palais des Nations (Geneva), 292–293 burgh), 852 1017 cafes, 312 Père-Lachaise, Cemetière du Palais des Papes (Avignon), currency and currency (Paris), 322 348 exchange, 295 Pergamon Altar (Berlin), 398 Palais du Prince (Monaco), day trips from, 328–329 Pergamon Museum (Berlin), 375 doctors and dentists, 295 398 Palamidi (Nafplion), 507 embassies and consulates, Perivoli t’Ouranou (Athens), Palatine Hill (Rome), 655 296 498 Palau de la Música Catalana emergencies, 296 Petersfriedhof (Salzburg), (Barcelona), 948 gay and lesbian travelers, 83–84 Palazzo Altemps (Rome), 661 328 Peterskirche (Munich), 430 Palazzo dei Conservatori layout of, 292–293 Petit Trianon (Paris), 328 (Rome), 656, 659–660 native behavior, 327 Pfarrkirche (Kitzbühel), 101 Palazzo del Popolo’s Torre nightlife, 325–328 The Philharmonie (Berlin), Grossa (San Gimignano), organized tours, 322–323 407 696 police, 296 Philosopher’s Walk Palazzo Ducale (Venice), post offices, 296 (Garmisch-Partenkirchen), 714–715 restaurants, 305–313 439 Palazzo Massimo alle Terme safety, 296 Phoenix Park (Dublin), 605 (Rome), 661 shopping, 323–325 Phone calls to Europe, 6–7 Palazzo Medici-Riccardi (Flo- sightseeing, 313–323 Piazza Barberini (Rome) rence), 686 telephones, 296–297 accommodations near, 642 Palazzo Pitti (Florence), 683 tipping, 297 restaurants near, 645–646 Palazzo Vecchio (Florence), transportation, 293–295 Piazza del Campo (Siena), 685–686 traveling to, 289–291 690 Palia Taverna Kritikou visitor information, Piazza del Comune (Assisi), (Athens), 497 291–292 699 Pallas Theater (Athens), Parish Church (Kitzbühel), Piazza del Duomo (Pisa), 496–497 101 692–693 Palmares Golf Course Parkcafé (Munich), Piazza del Duomo (San (Lagos), 821 432, 434 Gimignano), 696 Palm Beach Casino (Cannes), Parknasilla (Ireland), 622 Piazza della Cisterna (San 362 Parliament (Berlin), 404 Gimignano), 696 Panagia Evangelistria, Parliament (Budapest), 567 Piazza della Signoria (Flo- Church of (Tinos), 543 Parliament, Houses of rence), 681 Panagia Paraportiani (London), 245, 248 Piazza del Mercato Nuovo (Mykonos), 530 Parque da Floresta (Lagos), (Florence), 687 Panayia Evanyelistria (Tinos), 821 Piazza del Popolo (Rome) 539 Parque del Retiro (Madrid), accommodations near, Panorama Bar (Lisbon), 916 642–644 815–816 Parque Eduardo VII (Lisbon), restaurants near, 646–647 Panorios, Nikolaos, 544 794 Piazzale delle Corporazioni Panormou (Tinos), 545 Parque Estoril (Portugal), (Ostia Antica), 666 Pantheon (Rome), 656 817 Piazzale Michelangelo (Flo- restaurants near, 648–649 Parque María Luisa (Seville), rence), 681 Papeneiland (Amsterdam), 959 Piazza Massimo d’Azeglio 754 Parreirinha da Alfama (Lis- (Florence), accommoda- Paradise Beach (Mykonos), bon), 815 tions, 676–677 531 Parthenon (Athens), 488, 490 Piazza Navona (Rome), Paradiso (Amsterdam), 756 Paseo de la Castellana restaurants near, 648–649 Parc de Bruxelles (Brussels), (Madrid), 895 Piazza Ognissanti (Florence), 124 accommodations, 900–901 accommodations, 676 Parc de la Ciutadella Passion Play (Oberammer- Piazza San Lorenzo (Barcelona), 946 gau), 442 (Florence) Parc du Cinquantenaire Patras (Greece), 499–500 accommodations near, (Brussels), 122 Pauly & Co. (Venice), 718 674–675 Parc Güell (Barcelona), 945 Pavilhao Chines Bar (Lisbon), restaurants near, 678–679 Parc Monceau (Paris), 322 815 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:31 AM Page 1063

INDEX 1063

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Plage des Graniers (St- The Prado (Madrid), 2 Square; Venice), 713–714 Tropez), 358 Prague, 144–171 accommodations near, Plage des Salins (St-Tropez), accommodations, 152–156 705–706 358 American Express, 151 restaurants east of, 711 Plage du Midi (Cannes), 361 business hours, 151 restaurants near, 708–711 Plage Gazagnaire (Cannes), car rentals, 150 Piazza San Pietro (the Vati- 361 currency and currency can), 651 Plaka (Athens) exchange, 151 Piazza Santa Croce (Flo- accommodations, 472–473 day trips from, 170–171 rence), restaurants near, restaurants, 479–481 doctors and dentists, 151 680–681 shopping, 494–495 drugstores, 151 Piazza Santa Maria Novella Plati Yialos (Greece), 528 embassies, 151 (Florence) Plati Yialos (Mykonos), 530 emergencies, 151 accommodations near, Playhouse Theatre (Edin- hospitals, 151 675–676 burgh), 860 Internet access, 152 restaurants near, 679–680 Plaza Mayor (Madrid) kavárnas, 160 Piazza Santa Trinità (Flo- accommodations around, layout of, 148 rence), accommodations 905–906 native behavior, 154 near, 674 restaurants near, 912 nightlife, 168–170 Piazzetta San Marco Plaza Santa Ana (Madrid) restaurants, 156–161 (Venice), 714 accommodations around, shopping, 167–168 Picasso, Pablo, 320 905–906 sightseeing, 162 Die Sammlung Berggruen: restaurants near, 909–910 taxis, 150 Picasso und Seine Zeit Plindri (Mykonos), 531 telephone, 152 (Berlin), 400–401 Plzen (Pilsen; Czech Repub- tipping, 152 Musée Picasso (Antibes), lic), 188 transportation, 149–150 365 Poble Espanyol (Barcelona), traveling to, 145, 148 Musée Picasso (Paris), 317 943–944 visitor information, 148 Museu Picasso (Barcelona), The Point Depot (Dublin), Prague Castle (Prazsk; 942–943 610 Hrad), 162–163 Piccadilly (London), restau- Polar Ship Fram (Oslo), Prague Spring Music Festi- rants, 236–237 774 val, 19–20, 168 Picture Gallery (Siena), Pompeii (Pompei), 667 Prague Symphony, 169 691–692 Ponta da Piedade (Portugal), Praia da Rocha (Portugal), Pilatushaus (Oberammer- 820 824–825 gau), 443 Ponte di Rialto (Venice), Praia de Baleeira (Portugal), Pinacoteca Nazionale restaurants near, 711–712 823 (Siena), 691–692 Ponte Vecchio (Florence), 671 Praia de Faro (Portugal), 831 accommodations near, 674 Praia de Martinhal (Portu- (Munich), 427–428 restaurant near, 678 gal), 823 Pinakothiki (Athens), 498 shopping, 686 Praia dos Três Irmãos (Portu- Pirgos (Santorini), 537 Pont St-Bénézet (Avignon), gal), 824, 825–826 Pirgos (Tinos), 544 348 Prasná vêz (Powder Tower; Pisa (Italy), 692–694 Porta (Athens), 498 Prague), 163 Place de la Bastille (Paris), Portmagee (Ireland), 621 Prazsk; Hrad (Prague Cas- 321, 324 Porto (Tinos), 545 tle), 162–163 Place de la Concorde Portobello Market (London), Prime Minister’s Question (Paris), 322 255 Time (London), 248 Place de la République (Costa Princess Diana Memorial (Arles), 352 do Sol), 816–818 Playground (London), 251 Place des Vosges (Paris), Porzellansammlung Prinsenhof Museum (Delft), 321–322 (Munich), 429 760 Place du Forum (Arles), 352 Potsdam (Germany), 410 Prins Eugens Waldemar- Place du Grand-Sablon Potsdamer Platz Arkaden sudde (Stockholm), 992 (Brussels), 124 (Berlin), 406 Prisons’ Hermitage (Assisi), Place du Petit-Sablon (Brus- Powder Tower (Prasná vêz; 699–700 sels), 124 Prague), 163 Procópio Bar (Lisbon), 814 Place Royale (Brussels), 124 Praça do Comércio (Lisbon), Promenade des Anglais Place St-Michel (Paris), 321 792 (Nice), 369 Plage de Larvotto (Monaco), Praça Dom Pedro IV (the The Proms (London), 21 375 ; Lisbon), 792 Propylaia (Athens), 488 Plage de Pampelonne Praça Marquês de Pombal Provence (France), 344–377 (St-Tropez), 358 (Lisbon), 794 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:31 AM Page 1064

1064 INDEX

Provinciaal Hof (Bruges), 135 Rembrandtplein (Amsterdam) shopping, 662 Prydkunst-Hjertholm accommodations, 735–736 sightseeing, 650–662 (Bergen), 786 nightlife, 754–756 telephone, 638–639 Psarrou Beach (Greece), 529 restaurant, 740 transportation, 636–637 Puck Fair (Killorglin), 621 Rembrandt van Rijn, Museum traveling to, 633–634 Puerta del Sol (Madrid), 895 Het Rembrandthuis visitor information, restaurants near, 907–909 (Amsterdam), 745 634–635 Pulteney Bridge (Bath), 285 Hall of the Lib- Rome Opera Ballet, 663 Pump Room and Roman erty of Bruges, 135–136 Rome Opera House, 663 Baths (Bath), 287 Renaissancezaal Brugse Vrije Ronnie Scott’s Club (Lon- (Bruges), 135–136 don), 258–259 Residenz (Munich), 428 The Rookies (Amsterdam), QBase (Athens), 498 Residenzmuseum (Munich), 756 Quadri (Venice), 708 428 Rosenborg Castle (Copen- Quai des Etats-Unis Residenz State Rooms/Resi- hagen), 212 (Nice), 369 denzgalerie Salzburg, 83 Rosenborg Slot (Copen- Queen’s Hall (Edinburgh), 860 Riccioli Café (Rome), 664 hagen), accommodations Queluz (Portugal), 817–818 Richard Wagner Festival near, 206 Quill’s Woolen Market (Kil- (Bayreuth), 21 Roskilde Festival, 20 larney), 618 Riddarholm Church (Stock- Ross Castle (Ireland), 616 Quinta do Lago (Portugal), holm), 993 The Rossio (Praça Dom 828 Rieskrater-Museum (Nördlin- Pedro IV; Lisbon), 792 gen), 453 Rossiter’s (Bath), 287–288 Rijksmuseum (Amsterdam), Rothenburg ob der Tauber Rådhus (Town Hall; 2, 742 (Germany), 444–450 Copenhagen), 213 Rijksmuseum van Oudheden Round Tower (Copenhagen), Rådhuspladsen (City Hall (Leiden), 761 213 Square; Copenhagen), 196 Ring of Kerry (Ireland), Route de Cézanne (Aix), 353 accommodations near, 620–625 Royal Albert Hall (London), 201–202 Ringstrasse (Vienna), 48 257 restaurants near, 205 River Club (Dublin), 610 Royal Arsenal Museum Rådhusplassen (City Hall R-Load (Athens), 498 (Copenhagen), 211 Square; Oslo), 764 Rocca Maggiore (Assisi), 696 Royal Botanical Garden Radnice (Town Hall; Cesk; The Rock Garden (London), (Madrid), 916 Krumlov), 181 257 Royal Botanic Garden (Edin- Rail travel, 36–39 The Rodon Club (Athens), burgh), 856 Rainermuseum (Salzburg), 84 498 Royal Café De Kroon Rathaus (Town Hall) Roman Agora (Corinth), 502 (Amsterdam), 755 Augsburg (Germany), 456 Roman Aqueduct (Segovia), Royal Concertgebouw Rothenburg ob der Tauber 924 Orchestra (Amsterdam), (Germany), 449 Roman Forum, 655 753 Real Academia de Bellas Romantic Road (Romantis- Royal Copenhagen, 214 Artes de San Fernando che Strasse; Germany), Royal Crescent (Bath), (Madrid), 916 444–460 285–286 Real Jardín Botánico Rome, 2, 633–667 Royal Festival Hall (London), (Madrid), 916 accommodations, 639–645 257 Real Mary King’s Close American Express, 637 The Royal Garden (Prague), (Edinburgh), 2, 852 business hours, 637 167 Real Monasterio de San cafes, 646 Royal Highland Gathering Lorenzo de El Escorial, 923 currency and currency (Braemar), 886 Rebetiki Istoria (Athens), 498 exchange, 637 Royal Lyceum Theatre (Edin- Red Light District (Amster- doctors and dentists, 637 burgh), 859 dam), 749 embassies and consulates, The Royal Mile (Edinburgh), Reduta Jazz Club (Prague), 637–638 851–852 169–170 emergencies, 638 Royal Museum of Fine Arts Regent’s Park (London), 252 Internet access, 638 (Copenhagen), 210 Regional Museum (Cesk; layout of, 635–636 Royal Museums of Fine Arts Krumlov), 180 mail and post offices, 638 (Brussels), 121–122 Reichsstadtmuseum (Rothen- nightlife, 662–664 Royal National Theatre burg ob der Tauber), organized tours, 661–662 (London), 256 449–450 restaurants, 645–650 Royal Opera House Reichstag (Berlin), 404 safety, 638 (London), 257 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:31 AM Page 1065

INDEX 1065

Royal Palace (Amsterdam), St. Jakobskirche (Rothen- St. Stephen (Lisbon), 808 747 burg ob der Tauber), 449 St. Stephen’s Church Royal Palace (Královsk; St. James, Cathedral of (Budapest), 567 palác; Prague), 163 (Innsbruck), 96 St. Stephen’s Day (Hun- Royal Palace (Madrid), St. James, Church of gary), 22 914–915 (Rothenburg ob der St. Stephen’s Green (Dublin), accommodations near, 901 Tauber), 449 605 restaurants near, 910 St. James’s (London), accom- St. Ulrich and St. Afra, Royal Palace (Visegrád), 575 modations, 228 Church of (Augsburg), 456 Royal Palace & Museum St. James’s Park (London), St. Vincent, Cathedral of (Stockholm), 992–993 252 (Bern), 1028 Royal Scottish National St. Jost, hospital and church St. Vitus Cathedral (Cesk; Orchestra (Glasgow), 877 of (Cesk; Krumlov), 181 Krumlov), 181 Royal Shakespeare Company St. Kentigern, Cathedral of St. Vitus Cathedral (Prague), (Stratford-upon-Avon), 272 (Glasgow), 874–875 162–163 Rübenmarkt (Nördlingen), St. Margaret’s Chapel (Edin- Sala della Pace (Siena), 690 453 burgh), 852 Salamanca (Madrid) Rudolfinum (Prague), 168 St. Maria, Dom (Augsburg), accommodations near, 906 Ruines de Glanum (near St- 456 restaurants near, 910–912 Rémy-de-Provence), St. Mark’s Square (Piazza shopping, 917 349–350 San Marco; Venice), Salève, Mont (near Geneva), Rundetårn (Copenhagen), 713–714 1019–1020 213 accommodations near, Salisbury (England), 277 705–706 Salisbury Cathedral (Eng- restaurants east of, 711 land), 279 Saarein (Amsterdam), 756 restaurants near, 708–711 Salsa Latina (Lisbon), 816 The Saatchi Gallery (Lon- St. Martin-in-the-Fields Mar- Salzburg, 71–88 don), 249 ket (London), 255 accommodations, 75–78 Sacré-Coeur, Basilique du St. Mary Magdalene, Church American Express, 74 (Paris), 320 of (Karlovy Vary), 176 beer gardens, 87–88 Sacred Way (Delphi), 519 St. Mary’s Church (Bergen), business hours, 74 Sacromonte, Gypsy caves of 785 consulates, 75 (Granada), 968 St. Michael (Lisbon), 808 doctors and dentists, 74–75 Sadler’s Wells Theatre (Lon- St. Michael’s Mount (Olhão), drugstores, 75 don), 256 832 emergencies, 75 Sagres (Portugal), 821–823 St. Michael’s Parish Church layout of, 72 St. Agnes Convent (Prague), (Linlithgow), 861 nightlife, 86–88 164 St. Mungo Museum of Reli- organized tours, 85–86 St. Andrew’s (Scotland), 885 gious Life and Art (Glas- post offices, 75 St. Anna’s Column (Inns- gow), 875 restaurants, 78–82 bruck), 95 St. Nicholas (Cheb), 190 shopping, 86 St. Anthony, Church of St. Nicholas Church (Ceské telephone, 75 (Lagos), 821 Budêjovice), 187 transportation, 74 St. Anton am Arlberg (Aus- St. Patrick’s Cathedral traveling to, 71–72 tria), 98–99 (Dublin), 604 visitor information, 72 St. Bavo’s Cathedral (Ghent), St. Patrick’s Dublin Festival Salzburg Card, 72 142 (Dublin), 18 Salzburger Altstadtkeller St. Bavo’s Church (Haarlem), St. Paul’s Cathedral (Lon- (Salzburg), 88 757 don), 250 Salzburg Festival, 21, 86 Sainte-Chapelle (Paris), St. Peter’s Basilica (the Vati- Sampson, Fountain of (Ceské 318–319 can), 651, 654 Budêjovice), 187 St. George, Church of St. Peter’s Cemetery San Clemente, Basilica di (Nördlingen), 453 (Salzburg), 83–84 (Rome), 659 St. George’s Basilica (Kostel St. Peter’s Church (Munich), Sanctuary of Apollo (Delphi), sv. Jirí; Prague), 163 430 519 St. George’s Chapel St. Peter’s Square (the Vati- Sanctuary of Asclepios (Epi- (Salzburg), 84 can), 651 dauros), 512 St. George’s Convent at St. Peter’s tomb (the Vati- Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia Prague Castle, 165 can), 654 (Delphi), 520 St. Giles, High Kirk of (Edin- Saint Spyridon, Church of San Fernando Royal Fine Arts burgh), 851 (Nafplion), 506–507 Academy (Madrid), 916 St. Jakob, Dom zu (Inns- St. Stephan’s Cathedral San Francesco, Basilica di bruck), 96 (Vienna), 66 (Assisi), 699 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:31 AM Page 1066

1066 INDEX

San Gimignano (Italy), Scheepvaartmuseum (Am- Senatorium (Rome), 656 694–696 sterdam), 745–746 Senior travelers, 27–28 San Giorgio degli Schiavoni, Schilthorn (Switzerland), Serendipity (Killarney), 618 Scuola di (Venice), 717 1036–1037 Seville (Spain), 953–961 San Giovanni in Laterano, Schloss Charlottenburg Shakespeare, William, in Basilica di (Rome), 659 (Berlin), 400 Stratford-upon-Avon, San Lorenzo, Basilica di (Flo- Schloss Charlottenhof (Pots- 272–274 rence), 685 dam), 411 Shakespeare Countryside San Lorenzo de El Escorial, Schloss Harburg (Germany), Museum (Stratford-upon- 923 453 Avon), 273 San Marco, Basilica di Schloss Linderhof (near Shakespeare’s Birthplace (Venice), 714 Oberammergau), 443 (Stratford-upon-Avon), 274 San Marco, Campanile di Schloss Mirabell Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre (Venice), 715 (Salzburg), 85 (London), 256 San Matteo, Museo Schloss Nymphenburg Shetland Connection (Edin- Nazionale di (Pisa), 694 (Munich), 429 burgh), 858 San Rocco, Scuola di Schönbrunn Palace Siamsa Tire (Tralee), 628 (Venice), 717 (Vienna), 67 Siegessäule (Berlin), 404 San Romolo, Cattedrale di Schumann’s (Munich), 434 Siena (Italy), 690–692 (Fiesole), 688 Schuttersgalerij (Amster- Sint-Baafskathedraal Sans Souci Palace (Potsdam), dam), 744 (Ghent), 142 410–411 Schwabing (Munich), 415 Sint-Bavokerk (Haarlem), 757 Sans Souci Park (Potsdam), Schwangau (Germany), Sint-Pieterskerk (Leiden), 762 410 457–460 Sintra (Portugal), 818 Santa Chiara, Basilica di Schwarzsee (Austria), Sistine Chapel (the Vatican), (Assisi), 700 101–102 654 Santa Croce, Basilica di (Flo- Scotch Malt Whisky Society Site Archéologique de St- rence), 685 (Edinburgh), 860 Pierre (Geneva), 1016 Santa Fina, Chapel of (San Scotch Whisky Heritage Cen- Sitges (Spain), 950–951 Gimignano), 696 tre (Edinburgh), 852 Skansen (Stockholm), 992 Santa Maria Assunta, Duomo Scottish Ballet (Edinburgh), Skellig Michael (Ireland), 621 Collegiata o Basilica di, 860 Ski Stadium (Garmisch- 696 Scottish Chamber Orchestra Partenkirchen), 439 Santa Maria Maggiore, Basil- (Edinburgh), 860 Skokloster Castle (Sweden), ica di (Rome), 659 Scottish Craft Centre (Glas- 999 Santa Maria Novella, Basil- gow), 876 Skokloster Motor Museum ica di (Florence), 685 Scottish National Gallery of (Sweden), 999 Sant’Anna (Lisbon), 813 Modern Art (Edinburgh), Slavkovsk; les (Slavkov For- Santo António, Igreja de 855–856 est; Czech Republic), 185 (Lagos), 821 Scottish National Portrait Slavnost pêtilisté r*ze Santo Estevão (Lisbon), 808 Gallery (Edinburgh), 856 (Cesk; Krumlov), 178 Santorini (Thira; Greece), Scottish Opera (Edinburgh), Slea Head (Ireland), 629 521, 532–539 860 Slottsfjellet (Tonsberg), 779 Santorini Jazz Festival Scottish Wildlife Trust Visitor Slottsfjelltårnet (Tonsberg), (Greece), 538 Centre (Braemar), 887 779 Santuario della Scala Santa Scott Monument (Edin- Sma’ Glen (Scotland), 880 (Rome), 659 burgh), 853–854 Smetana Hall (Prague), 169 São Bras de Alportel (Portu- Scuba diving Smuget (Oslo), 778 gal), 832 Nice, 370 Sneem (Ireland), 622 São Francisco, Igreja de St-Tropez, 358 Soho (London) (Faro), 831 Scuola di San Giorgio degli accommodations, 228–229 São Lourenço (Portugal), 830 Schiavoni (Venice), 717 restaurants, 237–238 São Miguel, Church of (Lis- Scuola di San Rocco Solar do Vinho do Porto bon), 808 (Venice), 717 (Lisbon), 816 São Tiago, Church of (Vila Scuola Merietti (Burano), 720 The Sorbonne (Paris), 321 Real), 834 Sé (Cathedral; Lisbon), 812 SO 36 (Berlin), 409 Schack-Galerie (Munich), Seasons, 16 Soul City (Munich), 434 428–429 Segovia, 924–925 Sound-and-light shows, Schaezlerpalais (Augsburg), Seiwald Boosverleih Athens, 497 457 (Austria), 102 South Kensington (London) Schatzkammer (Munich), 428 Semana Santa, Seville, 18–19 accommodations, 233 Schatzkammer (Vienna), 62 Sem Church (Tonsberg), 780 restaurant, 242 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:31 AM Page 1067

INDEX 1067

Spalícek (Cheb), 190 Stoa Athanaton (Athens), Syntagma Square (Athens) Spanische Reitschule (Span- 497 accommodations on and ish Riding School; Stoa of Attalos (Athens), around, 474–475 Vienna), 64 490 restaurants near, 482 Spanish Steps (Rome), 658 Stockholm, 2, 975–1000 Szentendre (Hungary), accommodations near, accommodations, 981–987 573–574 642–644 day trips from, 999–1000 restaurants near, 646–647 doctors and dentists, 979 Speyside (Scotland), 889–891 embassies/consulates, The Tall Ship at Glasgow Spoleto, 20 979–980 Harbour, 875 Sportzentrum (Mürren), gay and lesbian travelers, Tartan Gift Shops (Edin- 1036 998–999 burgh), 858 Spring Festival (Budapest), layout of, 976–977 Tate Britain (London), 249 571 native behavior, 981 Tate Modern (London), Stadhuis (Town Hall) nightlife, 996–998 249–250 Bruges, 136 organized tours, 995 Taverna Mostrou (Athens), Ghent, 142 restaurants, 987–991 497 Stadshuset (Stockholm City shopping, 995–996 Taximi (Athens), 497–498 Hall), 994 sightseeing, 991–995 Taxi Square (Mykonos), 525 Stadsschouwburg (Amster- taxes, 980 Tay Railway Bridge (Scot- dam), 753 telephone, 980 land), 882 Stadtcafe (Munich), 434 tipping, 980 Tayside (Scotland), 878–892 Stadtmuseum (Nördlingen), transportation, 977–979 Teatro Comunale di Firenze 453 traveling to, 975–976 (Florence), 687 Stadtturm (Innsbruck), 95 visitor information, 976 Teatro de la Maestranza Staigue Fort (Ireland), 622 Stonehenge (England), (Seville), 960 Staré Mêsto (Old Town; 275–276 Teatro della Pergola (Flo- Prague), 148 Stone of Scone (Edinburgh), rence), 687–688 accommodations, 153–154 853 Teatro dell’Opera (Rome), restaurants, 157–159 The Story of Berlin, 403 663 Staromêstské námêstí (Old Stourhead (Stourton), 286 Teatro Goldoni (Venice), 719 Town Square; Prague), 165 St-Paul-de-Vence (France), Teatro Nacional de São Car- Staronová synagoga (Old- 365–366 los (Lisbon), 814 New Synagogue; Prague), Strahov Monastery and Teatro Nacional Doña Maria 163–164 Library (Prague), 166 II (Lisbon), 814 Star;zidovsk; hrbitov Strahovsk; kláster a kni- Teatro Real (Madrid), 919 (Prague), 164 hovna (Prague), 166 Teatro Romano e Museo State Apartments (Edin- The Strand (London), restau- Civico (Fiesole), 689 burgh), 853 rants, 239–240 Telephone, calling Europe, Statens Museum for Kunst Stratford-upon-Avon (Eng- 6–7 (Copenhagen), 210 land), 267–275 Tempio di Minerva (Assisi), State Opera (Vienna), 69 Strathearn (Scotland), 880 699 State Theater Company Strathisla Distillery (Scot- Temple of Apollo (Corinth), (Munich), 431 land), 891 502 Staubbach Waterfall Straw Market (Florence), Temple of Apollo (Delphi), (Switzerland), 1038–1039 687 519 Stavovské divadlo (Prague), St-Rémy-de-Provence Temple of Athena Nike 166, 169 (France), 348–350 (Athena of Victory; Stazione Termini (Rome) Sts. Erhard and Ursala, Athens), 488 accommodations, 639, 642 Chapel of (Cheb), 190 Temple of Castor and Pollux restaurants, 645 Sts-Michel-et-Gudule, Cathé- (Rome), 655 Stedelijk Museum (Amster- drale des (Brussels), Temple of Faustina (Rome), dam), 746 123–124 655 Stedelijk Museum de Laken- St-Tropez (France), 354–358 Temple of Hephaistos hal (Leiden), 762 St-Trophime, Eglise (Arles), (Athens), 490 Steen & Strom (Oslo), 777 352 Temple of Hera (Olympia), St-Gatien, Cathédrale Student’s Grove (Oslo), 765 516 (Tours), 332 Student travelers, 28–29 Temple of Minerva (Assisi), Stiegelkeller (Salzburg), 88 Sun Casino (Monaco), 376 699 Stiftskirche St. Peter Super Paradise (Mykonos), Temple of the Vestal Virgins (Salzburg), 83 531 (Rome), 655 St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat (France), Swarovski Kristallwelten Temple of Zeus (Olympia), 371–372 (Innsbruck), 95 515, 516 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:31 AM Page 1068

1068 INDEX

Tennis, 358, 370 Touristik-Museum der Up and Down (Barcelona), Terezín (Theresienstadt; Jungfrau-Region (Inter- 949 Czech Republic), 171 laken), 1034 Uppsala (Sweden), 999–1000 Terme di Caracalla (Rome), Tourist Ticket (Turistkort; Uppsala Domkyrka (Swe- 658–659 Oslo), 768 den), 1000 Terme di Diocleziano Tourlos (Mykonos), 531 U Zlatého tygra (Prague), (Rome), 661 Tours (France), 330–332 170 Teylers Museum (Haarlem), Tower of Belém (Lisbon), 812 757 Tower of London, 245 Theater of Dionysos Trabeg Beach (Ireland), 630 Václavské námêstí (Athens), 488 TRAFO (Budapest), 572 (Wenceslas Sq.; Prague), Theater of Epidauros, 512 Train travel, 36–39 165 Theatinerkirche (Munich), Tralee (Ireland), 625–628 Val d’Enfer (France), 350 430 Tralee Steam Railway, 626 Vale de Pinta (Pestana Golf; Théâtre Antique (Arles), 352 Trastevere (Rome) Praia da Rocha), 825 Theatre Royal (Glasgow), 876 accommodations, 645 Vale do Lobo (Portugal), Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie restaurants, 650 828–830 (Brussels), 127 Travel agents, 10 Valentia (Ireland), 622 Théâtre Royal de Toone Traveler’s checks, 15 Valentia Island (Ireland), 621 (Brussels), 127 Traveling to Europe, 32–35 Vali Folklór (Budapest), 570 Thera Foundation (San- Traverse Theatre (Edin- Valley of Hell (France), 350 torini), 537 burgh), 859 Value-added tax (VAT), 15–16 Theseion (Athens), 490 Treasure House (Munich), 428 Valurefoss (Norway), 787 Thira (Santorini; Greece), Treasury (Esztergom), 576 Van Gogh Museum (Amster- 521, 532–539 Treasury of Atreus (Myce- dam), 742–743 The 13th Note (Glasgow), nae), 510 Vangskyrkje (Voss), 787 877 Tria Pigadia (Mykonos), 530 Városliget (City Park; Thistle Chapel (Edinburgh), Triumphal Arch (Inns- Budapest), 568 851 bruck), 94 Vasa Museum & the Royal Three Wells (Mykonos), 530 Triumphpforte (Inns- Warship Vasa (Stockholm), Tibidabo (Barcelona), 946 bruck), 94 991–992 Tiergarten (Berlin), 382, 404 Troldhaugen (Troll’s Hill; Vatican City, accommoda- restaurant, 394 Bergen), 785 tions near, 644 sightseeing, 398 Tropenmuseum (Tropical Vatican City (Rome), restau- Tinos (Greece), 521, 539–545 Museum; Amsterdam), 746 rants near, 649 Tiroler Landesmuseum Ferdi- Trümmelbach Falls (Switzer- Vatican grottoes, 654 nandeum (Innsbruck), 96 land), 1038 Vatican Museums, 654 Tiroler Volkskunst-Museum Tryvannstårnet (Lookout Veletrzní Palace (Prague), (Innsbruck), 96 Tower; Oslo), 776 164, 165 Tiryns (Greece), 508 Turistkort (Tourist Ticket; Vence (France), 366 Tivoli (Italy), 664–665 Oslo), 768 Venetian Kastro (Mykonos), Tivoli Gardens (Copen- Tuscany (Italy), 689 530 hagen), 1, 209 Tyrol Museum of Popular Art Venice, 700–721 accommodations near, (Innsbruck), 96 accommodations, 705–707 201–202 American Express, 704 restaurants, 207–208 cafes, 708 restaurants near, 205 Ufficio Scavi di Pompei consulates, 704 Tøjhusmuseet (Copenhagen), (Italy), 667 currency exchange, 705 211 Uffizi Gallery (Florence), 682 day trips from, 719–721 Toledo (Spain), 922–923 U Flek* (Prague), 170 drugstores, 705 Tonel (Portugal), 823 Ulvik (Norway), 787 emergencies, 705 Tonsberg (Norway), 779–780 Umbria (Italy), 689 gondola rides, 704 Torcello (Italy), 720–721 Unicorn, HM Frigate hospitals, 705 Torget (Bergen), 786 (Dundee), 883–884 layout of, 701, 704 Torre (Assisi), 699 Unicorn Tapestries (Paris), nightlife, 719 Torre de Belém (Lisbon), 812 321 organized tours, 717 Torre del Mangia (Siena), University of Paris, 321 post offices, 705 690 Unter den Linden (Berlin), restaurants, 708–712 Torre Grossa (San 382 safety, 705 Gimignano), 696 Untere Gletscher (Switzer- shopping, 718–719 Torremolinos (Spain), land), 1040 sightseeing, 712–717 972–974 Unterseen (Switzerland), telephones, 705 Tour de France, 20 1034 24_568914 Index.qxd 7/23/04 10:31 AM Page 1069

INDEX 1069

traveling to, 700–701 Villa Gregoriana (near Westminster Abbey (Lon- visitor information, 701 Tivoli), 664 don), 245 Venini (Venice), 718 Villandry (France), 332–334 West Pacific (Amsterdam), Versailles, Château de Vinohrady (Prague), restau- 756 (Paris), 328 rants, 161 Whichcraft (Dublin), 608 Vestfold Folk Museum (Tons- Visegrád (Hungary), 574–576 Whitehall (London), 251 berg), 780 Visitor information, 7–10 Whittard of Chelsea (Bath), Via Veneto (Rome) Vista Alegre (Lisbon), 813 288 accommodations near, 642 Vive la Vie (Amsterdam), Wiener Porzellanmanufaktur restaurants near, 645–646 755–756 Augarten Gesellschaft Victoria (London), accommo- Víziváros (Esztergom), 576 (Salzburg), 86 dations, 230–231 Volax (Tinos), 544 Wiener Staatsoper Victoria and Albert Museum Volendam (the Netherlands), (Vienna), 69 (London), 250 758–759 Wild at Heart (Berlin), Victorian Village (Glasgow), Vondelpark (Amsterdam), 408–409 876 749–750 Wild Life Park at Aurach Victory Column (Berlin), 404 Vor Frue Kirke (Copen- (Austria), 101 Vidám Park (Budapest), hagen), 213 Wild Rose (Athens), 498 568–569 Voringfoss waterfall (Nor- William Schmidt (Oslo), 777 Vienna, 1, 44–71 way), 787 Wilton House (near Salis- accommodations, 53–56 Voss (Norway), 787 bury), 279 American Express, 51 Voss Folkemuseum (Nor- Windsor Castle (England), business hours, 51 way), 787 260–261 doctors and dentists, 51 Vrídelní Kolonáda (Karlovy Winged Victory (Olympia), drugstores, 51 Vary), 176 515 embassies/consulates, 52 Vysehrad (Prague), 166–167 Wintergarten (Berlin), 408 emergencies, 52 Wire services, 15 heurigen, 70 Wispellan-Sanetch (Switzer- layout of, 48–49 Waldstein Gardens land), 1044 native behavior, 48 (Prague), 167 The Workshop of Phidias nightlife, 68–71 Waldwirtschaft Grosshess- (Olympia), 516 organized tours, 67–68 lohe (Munich), 433 World Clock (Copenhagen), post offices, 52 Wallenstein Valdstejnská 213 restaurants, 56–61 zahrada (Prague), 167 Writers’ Museum (Edin- safety, 52 War Memorial Gardens burgh), 851 shopping, 68 (Dublin), 601 sightseeing, 61–68 Warwick Castle (England), telephone, 52 274 Z ahrada na Valech tipping, 52 W. A. Sarmento (Lisbon), 813 (Prague), 167 transportation, 49, 51 Wasserngrat (Switzerland), Zandvoort (the Netherlands), traveling to, 44–45, 48 1044 758 visitor information, 48 Waterloo (Belgium), Zeneakadémia (Budapest), Vienna Boys’ Choir, 62–63 129–130 572 Vienna Card, 49 Waterlooplein flea market Zlatá ulicka (Golden Lane; Vieux-Marché (Brussels), 126 (Amsterdam), 752 Prague), 163 Vigeland Museet og Parken Watermania (Mykonos), 531 Zoo Bar (London), 260 (Oslo), 775 Waterville (Ireland), 622 Zoologischer Garten (Berlin Vikingskiphuset (Viking Ship Waterways Visitor Centre Zoo), 382, 404, 406 Museum; Oslo), 774 (Dublin), 605 accommodations near, Vilamoura Old Course (Por- Weather, 16–18 389–390 tugal), 829 WelcomeCard (Berlin), 382 restaurant near, 394 Vila Real de Santo António Wenceslas Sq. (Václavské Zosimus Ghostly Experience (Portugal), 832–835 námêstí; Prague), 165 (Dublin), 607 Vila Sol (Portugal), 829 Wengen (Switzerland), Zugspitze (Germany), Villa Adriana, 665 1037–1039 440–441 Villa dei Misteri (Pompeii), Westerkerk (Amsterdam), Zugspitzplatt (Germany), 436 667 748 Zur Historisches Mühle Villa d’Este (Tivoli), 664 Westminster (London), (Potsdam), 410 The Village (Brussels), restaurant, 240 Zutgloggeturm (Bern), 1027 122–123