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Staatliche Naturschutzverwaltung -Württemberg vor 25 000 Jahren

Where the wild river rushes … The formationEichber ofgB the Wutachuchberg Gorge nal hurdle to the of the Ur-, the original Wutach it impossible to build bridges or roads that would last. The River, to the south. For about the last 12,000 years, this sharp first evidence of a temporary wooden bridge dates only from The “ wild Wutach Gorge”, located between Neustadt and Let’s take ourselves back 25,000 years to the last , when u turn southward towards the upper has been irreversible, the 15th century. Small settlements developed around such na Wutachmühle, was, for a long time, feared for its rough ter- the higher-elevationdo areas of theUr-Wutach southern were rg e b establishing the present-day course of the river with the dis- crossings or near the scattered gypsum mills, flour mills, and

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l rain. Even today only few roads cross the gorge, but marked covered by a e thick ice shield, with tongues also stret- F tinctive knee of the Wutach (Wutachknie) near today’s village sawmills. Hikers can still spot ruins of medieval castles high hiking trails maintained by the (Black For- ching eastwards. Meltwater was carried down by the so-called of Achdorf. After its diversion, the Wutach River carved a up on the edges of the gorge, such as the ruin of Neu-Tann- est Hiking and Mountaineering Association) make it readily new bed for itself down to 180 m (600 ft) below the old valley accessible. Observant hikers will be treated to a wild Ger- bottom of the -. To this day, through erosion, man river environment unique for its geology and landscape high waters, and flooding, this untamed and unspoiled wild history. The Wutach Gorge offers a congenial habitat for many vor 18 000 Jahren river continues to shape the face of the landscape. rare animals and plants, some of them endangered. Due to its (KS) unspoiled nature, its geological distinctiveness, and its flora EichbergBuchberg The deepening of the Wutach River (MS) and fauna, the gorge was declared a in 1939 in

u Published by: order to preserve it as a natural environment and recreational na A 30-km hike (about 20 mi) along the Wutach River offers a do rg Regierungspräsidium (RP FR) e b

d area for future generations. It thus ranks as one of the oldest l richly varied journey through several hundred million years e Referat 56 - Naturschutz und Landschaftspflege F nature reserves in ’s southwestern state of Baden- of geological history. Like a geology textbook example, the Bissierstraße 7, 79114 Freiburg, www.rp-freiburg.de Württemberg. Under the Natura 2000 initiative, the area is The terrain before the Wutach River‘s sharp diversion at the end of the last The wild Wutach River continues to shape the face of the gorge (MS) Wutach cuts through almost all the rock strata to be found in Overall concept and text: now also protected by the European Union. ice age (25,000 years ago) with Feldberg-Danube (Feldbergdonau) and southwestern Germany. From a narrow bedrock gorge of Black RP Freiburg (F. Tribukait) und Wutach-Ranger M. Schwenninger Original Wutach (Ur-Wutach) Forest gneiss and granite, the river flows over the distinctively Photo credits and map: Berg (Be), Dannenmeyer (Dan), Geisenhof (Gei), hoyerdesign (hd), Feldberg-Danube,vor 15 000 Jahren the headstream of the Danube catchment, trach Valley. By about 18 to 20,000 years ago, sediment deposits colored (sandstone from the Lower Triassic pe- Kersting (Ker), Klüber (Klü), Kretzschmar (Kre), Rasbach (Ras), which gently descended through the Gap (Blum- had built up the Feldberg-Danube channel and, after one or riod) into the (shell limestone from the Middle Schwenninger (MS), Steegmüller (KS), Ullrich (Ull) berger Pforte) between Eichberg and Buchberg into today’s Ai- several extreme instances of high water, the river cleared the fi- Triassic period) gorge with its bright, often steep walls. Close Translation: vor 25 000 JahrenEichbergBuchberg The Wutach Gorge – Neu-Tannegg ruin, popularly known as “Burg Boll” („Boll Castle“) (Gei) The Wutach River near Gündelwangen (Gei) Michael Mundhenk Production:

Stages of diversionau Geological strata, schematic cross-section Nature Reserve and on Repro-Service & pk-Verlag Peter Klüber, 79348 Freiamt d rg e

b above sea level EichbergBuchberg Feldberg 1493 m www.klueber-repro-verlag.de d

l e Wutach Gorge egg, located below the village of Boll, and the remains of a Natura 2000 Protected Area F 1500 to where Gauchach Creek spills into the Wutach River, the Distribution: 1108 m stone wall of Stallegg Castle, near Göschweiler. In the Wutach Wutach finally enters Keuper strata (from the Upper Triassic This brochure can be obtained through: u Neustadt Mouth of Räuber- Schatten- Mouth of Achdorf Eichberg na Fo Bad Boll Wutach- Gorge alone, there is evidence of seven castles with pre-Chris- Landesanstalt für Umwelt, Messungen und do Ur-Wutach rm 847 m 812 m Rötenbach schlössle mühle 619 m Gauchach Creek mühle 538 m 913 m rg er period) and then, further downstream, Lower and Middle e F e Creek 657 m 574 m 570 m WUS_UmschlagBezug_RZ_482x310 11.07.14 08:54 Seite 1 b ldb Naturschutz Baden-Württemberg (LUBW) d er tian fortifications. These castles asserted and protected claims l g G 713 m Blumberg e 1000 laci F er Jurassic strata. Early Ice Age Seebach 705 m to power. Postfach 10 0163, 76231 Gutach Former http://www.lubw.baden-wuerttemberg.de/servlet/is/6649 vor 10 000 Jahren (hd) Feldberg-Danube Donau Living and working in the gorge Wutach Wutach Water power was often the only available source of ener- July 2014, 1st English edition 7,000 copies

500 D W EichbergBuchberg allerersten Ranges“– einer der letzten Wildflüsse Deutschlands, ein The Wutach Gorge has always been an impediment for gy, and it was used early on in the Wutach Gorge. Even so, landschaft heißt. Entlang, wie es ihres schon Oberlaufs 1971 in derbis erstenzur Mündung Monografie in den über Hochrhein diese Fluss - bietet die Wutach Einblicke in Jahrmillionen der Erdgeschichte,„Naturphänomen zeigt ihre lebendige D W Ent wicklung als „Grand Canyon“ des Schwarzwalde reiche Tier- und Pflanzenwelt. Bereits seit 1939 steht das beliebte Tourismusgebiet Wutachschlucht unter Natur - working people. Until the Middle Ages, the Wutach River schutz, 1979 wurden die beeindruckenden Wutachflühens und beherbergt und 1989 die eine Schluchten facetten - millers had a hard life, due to storms and associated - der Wutach-Seitenbäche in den strengen Schutzstatus mit einbezogen. Erfahren Sie in diesem umfassenden, reich bebilder WWildeil Wasser – über eine einzigartige Natur- und Kultu de W vor 18 000 JahrenAitrach asser – Sie ein auf eine spannende Reise zu geologischen Besonderheiten, einer bewegten steilesteile Schluchten Land schaftsgeschichte, einer vielfältigenrlandschaft. Flora und Fachkundige Faunaten Buch und viel informieren Autoren Wissenswertes laden nicht Schlu Bedrock zuletzt über histo rische und heutige Nutzungen im Kontext jahrzehntelanger Natur - chte Porphyr Muschelkalk between Kappel and Grimmelshofen could only be crossed ings. Once the “mill obligation” or “mill soke,” guaranteeing n schutzbestrebungen. gorge gorge Wilde Wasser – steile Schluchten • Detaillier te, allgemeinverständliche Erläuterungen von renommierten Experten Wutach der jeweiligen Fachgeb West East • Geeignet für jeden Naturinteressierten, ob als Reisender zur Urlaubsvorbereitung D W iete und fachkundigen Wutachkennern „vor Or EichbergBuchberg at fords; annual high waters and constant ground shifts made income, was rescinded in 1848, the mills located in the gorge oder als vertiefende Lektüre für bereits Ortskundige • Zahlreiche brillante Fotografien und aussagekräftige Grafiken machen das Buch auch zu einem ästhetischen Genuss t“ Today • Mit Glossar der Fachbegriffe und ausführlichem Register zur Schnellorientierung 10 20 30 40 50 60 km (hd) • Zum Blättern, Schmökern und Nachs chlagen

(KS) (hd) www.thorbecke.de 10 x vertical exaggeration crystalline bedrock Buntsandstein Muschelkalk Keuper Lower Jurassic (Lias) Middle Jurassic (Dogger) Upper Jurassic (Malm) DIESES PRODUKT WURDE IN DEUTSCHLAND HERGESTELLT u ISBN ---- 2 Euro vom Erlös dieses Buches fließen a an die Stiftung n Naturschutzfonds. do rg e More about the Wutach River b  d l

e REGIERUNGSPRÄSIDIUM FREIBURG F in this new book!

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EichbergBuchberg Blumberg could not survive. Today, only the Schattenmühle mill is still English fishing club that subsequently promoted opening up Thevor 15Wutach 000 Jahr Gorge:en generating power from the Wutach River. Stallegg, a hydrau- the gorge for hikers. Over time, Bad Boll’s popularity waned A paradise for plants and animals (Leucojum vernum) cover the forest floor. In summer, they’re re- lic power station on the Wutach and a new facility close to and the buildings were used for other purposes until they EichbergBuchberg Unique climatic influences, diverse landforms, and a variety of placed by perennial honesty (Lunaria rediviva), baneberry (herb Ewattingen show that using the steep drop of a wild river (a were finally demolished. In 1991, it became the property of Wutach soils result inAc hdorfa colorful mosaic of gorge microhabitats, ranging Christopher, Actaea spicata), and other plants that love humus- gradient of 1% compared to 0.1% found in more level river the state of Baden-Württemberg. u na from extremelyd odry (for instance, around the limestone rocks) rich, moist soil. The older trees with their thick layers of moss rg e channels) for power generation is still a valid proposition. Today, forestry is the most important industry in the gorge. b d

l to extremely wete (e.g. in the floodplain) and offer a home to and lichen make the woodlands look like an enchanted forest. Though today we enjoy the beauty of nature in the Wutach Attempts are under way to nurture the species-rich woodland F varied plant communities. Of the approximately 2,800 ferns Gorge, up until a hundred years ago people struggled to wrest communities and preserve the near-natural mixed deciduous and flowering plants catalogued in , around In the floodplain at the bottom of the gorge, an altogether their livelihood from it, in the process transforming the gorge forests typically found in this area. The forest plays an impor- 1,000 species alone can be found in the Wutach Gorge. different picture emerges. During high waters, the Wutach into a cultural landscape. tant role in protecting against erosion and rockfall. Also, a few River builds up new gravel islands on which pioneer plants Turk‘s cap lily (Lilium martagon) Cheddar pink (Dianthus gratiano- Lady‘s slipper orchid (Cypripedium Infl orescence of the common but- smallish sawmills make use of the abundance of wood found Let’svor 10look 000 in Jahrenmore detail at two examples of these diverse like creeping yellowcress (Rorippa sylvestris) and herb Barbara (MS) politanus) (Gei) calceolus) (Gei) terbur (Petasites hybridus) (MS) along the Wutach River. plant communities. On the shadowy, moist northern slopes of (Barbarea officinalis) grow. On firm gravel surfaces, reed canary Conservation is key

the MuschelkalkEichber gorgegB we finduchberg a species-rich maple-ash forest. grass (Phalaris arundinacea) and large populations of striking Around 1900, the Wutach River was famous for being one of Spring snowfl akes (Leucojum Perennial honesty (Lunaria rediviva) The Wutachschlucht-Gauchachtal Nature Reserve was esta- cacy group called “Save the Wutach Gorge,” organized by the Wutach fl oodplain with thick carpet of common butterbur during the sum- In spring, wild garlic (Allium ursinum) and spring snowflakes vernum), harbingers of spring in the (Gei) common butterbur (Petasites hybridus) can be found. mer (Gei) the best trout rivers in , and its fishing industry was Aitrach gorge (Ras) blished in 1939. Shortly afterwards, the area was threatened Schwarzwaldverein and its future president Fritz Hockenjos, it of great importance. The water quality of the Wutach River by an ambitious project. In 1941, plans were afoot to dam the was possible to prevent the dam project from going forward – Wutach The animal world of the Wutach Gorge is similarly diverse. deteriorated until the 1970s from, among other things, the in- Zoologists estimate that about 10,000 species of vertebrates, river to generate power. However, with the help of an advo- a lasting legacy of the Schwarzwaldverein. In 1989, the nature brochure. Information pavilions at Schattenmühle, the former dustrial plants situated in its . Today, the water arthropods, and molluscs live here. Characteristic animals you reserve’s boundaries were revised. The Wutach Gorge now Bad Boll resort site, and Wutachmühle offer additional infor- quality has again reached a level that allows various species might spot, with a bit of luck, include the white-throated Exposed rock between Dietfurt and Schurhammerhütte (Sch) encompasses 950 hectares (over 3.5 sq mi), with the surround- mation about the special features of the gorge. Nature hikes of fish typically found in wild rivers – such as the rare brown fi r-beech forest fi r-beech forest dipper (Cinclus cinclus); the fire salamander (Salamandra salaman- ing conservancy area covering another 415 hectares (1.6 sq mi). and lectures offered by the local resort towns and associations trout – to live there. Conservationists and fishing (Salmo trutta) dra terrestris), typically active after a rainfall; and Liparus germanus, round off the wide range of information provided by the leaseholders share one goal: to preserve a diverse indigenous Comprehensive protective provisions are necessary to preserve nature conservation authorities. heute a small black weevil. Each of these species has its peculiarities. fish population in this near-natural river setting. For example, the white-throated dipper catches its prey the unique Wutach Gorge. The number of visitors is already EichbergBuchberg pines high, and it is increasing. The resulting impact on nature can Important local contacts are the volunteer “Wutach Scouts”, Blumberg moist, cool shadowy underwater and Liparus germanus cuts countless holes into the View of the former spa of Bad Boll, around 1890 slopes leaves of the common butterbur. be kept to a minimum only if preservation rules are strictly who wear lapel pins saying “Naturschutzdienst”. Please sup- dry, hot rock face followed. We can only protect what we know – hence this port these volunteers from the Schwarzwaldverein and the Bergwacht (Mountain Rescue Service) in their work – your maple-linden forest steep, rocky Muschel- Wutach White-throated dipper (Cinclus Fire salamander (Salamandra salamandra terrestris) (MS) cooperation is crucial! An unusual feature of the Wutach Gorge was the renowned Achdorf maple-ash forest kalk wall cinclus) (Ull) Natterer‘s bat (Myotis nattereri) (Kre) health resort of Bad Boll. During the 19th century, this riparian forest with grey warm, sunny alders (Alnus incana) Since 1994, a full-time nature conservation officer – the luxurious thermal spa was built around the mineral spring that slopes common butterbur sloping bank had been known for its healing powers since the late Middle (Petasites hybridus) “Wutach Ranger” – has worked in the gorge on behalf of the Ages. The spa’s glory days extended from 1887 to 1914. The high water nature conservation authorities. The officer is glad to tell excellent cuisine at the resort, the spa gardens with their two steep bank you about his work and the programs on offer (for contact ponds on which gondola rides were offered, the variety of fl oodplain gravel island information, see the inside of this brochure). The Schwarz- Wutach River medicinal baths, and, not least, the electric illumination of the with cutoffs waldverein, the area’s municipalities, and the three districts gardens and local waterfalls were big attractions around the of -Hochschwarzwald, Schwarzwald--Kreis, and turn of the century. In 1894, Bad Boll was taken over by an (Salmo trutta) (Be) Vegetational cross-section of the Muschelkalk gorge can provide additional information. Waterfall at Tannegg (Ker) Exploring the gorge on shank’s pony Picnic areas with fire pits are located at Wutachmühle, Schur- For nature‘s sake hammerhütte, and near Dietfurt. For decades, the many hiking trails through the Wutach Gorge We’re delighted you’re showing an interest in the nature reserve have been marked and maintained by the Schwarzwaldverein and hope you‘ll relax and enjoy the beauty of nature. At the Hint: You don’t have to begin your Wutach Gorge hike at the and its volunteers. The long-distance trail from Freiburg to same time, to assist the Nature Conservation authorities in pro- entry points. Why not hike from one of the surrounding (Querweg Freiburg-Bodensee) – waymarked tecting this environment, please abide by the following rules: villages across the scenic Muschelkalk plateau and let yourself by a red-and-white lozenge on a yellow background – follows be surprised by the impressive drop of the gorge? the gorge between Haslachschlucht and Achdorf.

Please note: Depending on the weather and the time of year, Please do not leave the marked trails. Rest or take breaks some stretches of the gorge’s trails can be slippery and only in designated picnic areas. Leaving the trails damages dangerous. Wearing appropriate footwear and paying careful Bräunlingen or destroys delicate flora and fauna in the nature reserve attention are important for a safe hike. Should you, despite (including in the water). At steep slopes, other visitors may Hüfingen every precaution, slip, look for the signs put up by the be endangered by falling rocks if you go off the trail. Bergwacht to help you identify the rescue sector (Rettungs- sektor) you’re in and get help fast. Please contribute to preserving the area’s biodiversity by not Titisee-Neustadt picking or digging up any plants. Many rare and threatened Neudingen plants can be found in the gorge. Sumpfohren

Black kite (Milvus migrans) (Dan) Rock at Räuberschlössle (KS) Gauchach Gorge (KS) All dogs must be kept on a leash. Whenever dogs are around, Dittishausen ground-breeding birds tend to leave their nests, exposing their fledglings to increased danger. On the narrow trails, even peaceful dogs can be a danger to each other unless kept on a leash.

Donaueschingen Behla (MS) Please ride your bike or mountain bike only on solid trails that are at least 2 m (6.5 ft) wide. Horseback riding is not The following routes are particularly recommended Fürstenberg for half-day or day hikes: allowed on footpaths or on marked hiking trails less than 3 m Hausen (10 ft) wide. Cyclists and equestrians will find an extensive • Kappel-Gutachbrücke via Räuberschlössle to Schattenmüh- Döggingen vor Wald network of trails surrounding the Wutach Gorge. There are le (10 km) Neustadt Rötenbach no horse or bicycle trails traversing the gorge lengthwise. • Schattenmühle to Bad Boll (4 km) • Schattenmühle – Inselwirts-Keller – Bachheim (11 km) • Lotenbachklamm (1 km) Unadingen Help keep nature free of litter and garbage by taking your • Round trip: Bachheim Wanderparkplatz (hikers’ parking Löffingen refuse home with you. Within the nature reserve, there are lot) – Inselwirts-Keller – the mouth of Gauchach Creek – no garbage cans. Gauchachschlucht to Burgmühle – Bachheim (10 km) Rötenbachschlucht G • Round trip: Boll – Bad Boll – Schurhammerhütte – via u Please only light fires in designated barbecue areas, and do ta c Rosshütte back to Boll Wanderparkplatz (hikers’ parking Kappel h not camp. Vegetation is damaged when a fire is lit outside a lot) (8 km) Opferdingendesignated area or when a tent is put up. Also, wild animals living in the reserve need nighttime peace. Gauchachschlucht Mundelfingen (MS) Seppenhofen

Boating is prohibited between March 1 and July 31, and Haslachschlucht 713 m Versatz Schatten Ortschaften Wutach swimming is prohibited year-round. The Wutach River and x = 1,274 mm Tips for getting to the Wutach Gorge How you can support our work Riedböhringen y = 0,892 mm its banks are home to special animals and plants no longer Burgmühle Using public transport is quick and environmentally friendly. If you’d like to contribute to helping preserve this unique Göschweiler found anywhere else. Swimming and canoeing disturb these Hondingen The Wutach Gorge can be easily reached by bus and train. series of gorges, you can make a donation by bank transfer, Eschach habitats and threaten rare species. Also, your own safety may During the season, special runs of hikers’ buses are available using the reference word „Wutachschlucht,“ to one of the Bachheim be endangered by rockfall into the river. 776 m on weekends and holidays. With a complimentary KONUS following two accounts: Neustadt Guest Card (offered by accommodation providers), visitors Donations Accounts of the Stiftung Naturschutzfonds (Nature Döggingen Stallegg Reiselfingen can travel on those for free as well. YouRötenbach can get brochures Conservation Fund) and further information about transportation options from Baden-Württembergische Bank: Inselwirts-Keller , Südenbadenbus (www.suedbadenbus.de), or IBAN: DE15 6005 0101 0002 8288 88, BIC: SOLADEST Unadingen Räuberschlössle WiederaustrittReemergence Löffingen Rümmelesteg local tourist offices. Postbank : Holzschlag Wutachmühle Rötenbachschlucht IBAN: DE67 6001 0070 0010 1007 06, BIC: PBNKDEF G u ta c VersickerungSinkhole h Dietfurt 570 m Kappel Additional sources of information Stiftung Naturschutzfonds Baden-Württemberg beim Mundelfingen Aselfingen Ministerium für Ländlichen Raum und Verbraucherschutz Gauchachschlucht Blumberg The Wutach Gorge (Wutachschlucht) hiking map (scale: Schattenmühle SeppenhofenKernerplatz 10, D-70182 Stuttgart Gündelwangen Neu-Tannegg Wuta 704 m 1:35,000), issued by the Landesvermessungsamt (state survey- Lotenbach- ch formerehem. www.stiftung-naturschutz-bw.de klamm Schurhammerhütte Haslachschlucht ing office)Wu and the Schwarzwaldverein,713 m at Schlossbergring 15, Bad Boll ta D-79098 Freiburg,ch tel: 0761-380530, Boll Göschweiler Burgmühle www.schwarzwaldverein.de Wutach Gorge Nature Reserve Überachen Achdorf 757 m General information: Bachheim Ewattingen 539 m W Donaueschingen e 776 m ll

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in Lenzkirch e

Rosshütte c

• local tourist offices and online at www.wutachschlucht.de Natura 2000 (Habitats Directive Area) Restaurant h w Stallegg e and www.schluchtensteig.de Reiselfingen Long-distance trail between Freiburg g Buchberg Rail line (Klü) 880 m • Martin Schwenninger, full-time nature conservation officer, Inselwirts-Keller and Lake Constance Münchingen Neustadt Landratsamt Waldshut, tel: 07703-919412,Räuberschlössle WiederaustrittSchluchtensteig hiking trail 570 m Bus stop Rümmelesteg DöggingenWutachmühle email:Holzschlag [email protected]. Rötenbach Expertly led tours upon request and with prior registration. Hiking trail Parking Dietfurt Versickerung 619 m Information pavilion Fire pit Bonndorf Achdorf This brochure can be obtained Schattenmühle Epfenhofen Gündelwangen Neu-Tanneg Wut Blumberg Lotenbach- ach Unadingen • at municipal offices and local tourist offices, the Schwarz- ehem. Shelter Ruin klamm Schurhammerhütte Bad Boll waldverein (see above), or LUBW (see back panel) Löffingen Boll • in the Gorge itself at Gasthaus Schattenmühle, at the infor- 0 500 m 1000 m 2000 m 3000 m 757 m We Rötenbachschlucht llbl

Ewattingen ec mation booth at Wutachmühle, or from the nature conserva- g h G w u e e Roßhütte w g ta n Sa e u c tion officers in the field. Fundamental GIS data © Landesamt für Geoinformation und Landentwicklung l s h ch h Lausheim wän Gündelwangen Blumegg ü zlebah nm n Kappel re Münchingen Baden-Württemberg (www.lgl-bw.de) 2012, 2851.2-D/7052. ge Mundelfingen 665 m og M

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Gauchachschlucht n

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Rümmelesteg (MS) s l

e Seppenhofen F 575 m Lembach Bonndorf

Haslachschlucht Wu 713 m tach Liverwort (Hepatica nobilis) (MS) Silver-washed fritillary (Argynnis paphia) (MS) Josef‘s rock (Ker) Rothaus Göschweiler Burgmühle Wellendingen Dillendorf Bachheim 776 m in Lenzkirch Stallegg Bahnhof Reiselfingen Lausheim-Blumegg Brünlisbach Inselwirts-Keller

Räuberschlössle Wiederaustritt 570 m Rümmelesteg Grimmelshofen Holzschlag Wutachmühle 495 m Unter- Dietfurt Versickerung Wellendingen Sparenberg Wangen Schwaningen Weizen 619 m Achdorf Ober- Gündelwangen Schattenmühle Neu-Tanneg Wut Blumberg Lotenbach- ach ehem. klamm Schurhammerhütte Bad Boll Boll

757 m Weizen Beggingen Ewattingen Roßhütte

Münchingen

Bonndorf