Charley Lee [email protected] www.cruiseplannersoftexas.com 903-483-2660

NEW ORLEANS, LA

OVERVIEW

Introduction

It has been said that , , celebrates indulgence like no other U.S. city; its reputation for feasting and revelry, especially during Mardi Gras, is legendary. After , the city rebuilt with fervor and tourism is flourishing. New restaurants, hotels and attractions draw millions of visitors to the city each year.

Although some neighborhoods still struggle with the aftermath of the storm, visitors to New Orleans' Central Business District, the , Faubourg Marigny neighborhood, the Garden District and Uptown along St. Charles Avenue and will find a city alive and thriving.

In this city synonymous with resilience and rebirth, it takes more than a hurricane or an oil spill to make New Orleanians lose their appetite for fun, food and merriment.

New Orleans is an extraordinary city, and with its unique culture and history, it has long enchanted a wide variety of visitors with a yearning for the romantic, the spiritual, the beautiful or the off-beat. (In what other U.S. city would a voodoo priestess be buried next to the mayor's family, or funerals be celebrated with a band and a processional?) That magic feeling is stronger than ever, a calling card to a city with a spirit too beautiful to ever break.

Sights—St. Louis Cathedral and the French Quarter (also called Vieux Carre); the Garden District; Woldenberg Riverfront Park; an aboveground cemetery; the view of the city from Algier's Point.

Museums—The Ogden Museum of Southern Art; The Cabildo; the Historic New Orleans Collection; the National World War II Museum; the Southern Food and Beverage Museum (SoFAB); the New Orleans Museum of Art.

Memorable Meals—Whole roasted fish at Peche Seafood Grill; trout amandine at Galatoire's; fried chicken and Creole at the legendary Dooky Chase; turtle soup at Commander's Palace.

Late Night—Frenchmen Street music and nightlife; Rock 'n' Bowl for all types of music; Tipitina's for local acts; Jazz Bistro for traditional jazz; for all-ages jazz shows off Bourbon Street; coffee and beignets at Cafe du Monde.

Walks—Gallery hopping along Royal Street; a nighttime stroll along The Moonwalk to view the ; daytime walks along St. Charles Avenue and through Audubon Park; the neighborhoods of the Garden District.

Especially for Kids—The Discovery Garden at Longue Vue House and Gardens; Audubon Aquarium of the Americas; the ; the Audubon Butterfly Garden and Insectarium; Carousel Gardens Amusement Park in .

New Orleans is sometimes called "the Crescent City" because it curves like a half-moon around a bend of the . Its orientation blunts the points of the traditional compass—no one in New Orleans navigates using north, south, east or west. Local directions refer to "riverside" (toward the Mississippi), "lakeside" (toward Lake Pontchartrain), "uptown" or "up river" (above Canal Street) and "downtown" or "down river" (Canal Street and below).

The city's position at the mouth of the Mississippi River and proximity to the Gulf of Mexico does make the area more prone to severe weather patterns such as hurricanes. Areas of New Orleans that visitors typically enjoy, such as the French Quarter, Uptown and the Central Business District, were virtually untouched by Hurricane Katrina. Outlying areas such as the Lower Ninth Ward, Lakeview and St. Bernard Parish did see high flood waters, but revitalization is well under way. This progress is attributed to the many voluntourism organizations and the many voluntourists who have visited since 2005. Organizations such as Brad Pitt's Make It Right foundation, Beacon of Hope, St. Bernard Project and Habitat for Humanity have worked to build hundreds of homes and assist residents in returning to their neighborhoods.

Most tour companies include highlights of these areas in their city tours, or you can rent a bike, car or hire a cab to go yourself. Just watch out for potholes on the roads in neighborhoods all around town (a perpetual problem).

It was the Chitimacha and Chawasha people who were the first to recognize the benefits of settling near the mouth of the Mississippi River. The next was French Canadian explorer Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne, Sieur de Bienville, who in 1718 named what is now the French Quarter for Philip, Duc d'Orleans and regent of France. A call went out for settlers.

But few French people were willing to risk life in the mosquito-infested swamplands of Louisiana. French authorities had to lure male settlers with tales of diamonds, rubies, emeralds, beautiful sand beaches and snowcapped mountains. The authorities also had to free 88 women from Parisian prisons to be their brides. When enslaved West Africans were forcefully transported by ship to New Orleans, the religion of vodun arrived with them. Vodun, or voodoo, is a religion of African origin that's also largely practiced in Haiti. After the Haitian Revolution in the late 1700s, French colonists and slave-masters sought to oppress the voodoo practitioners in New Orleans to avoid a similar uprising. This oppression encouraged the enslaved peoples to hold onto their beliefs more strongly, giving way to the development of current-day Louisiana voodoo.

New Orleans remained a French colony until it was transferred to Spain in 1762, but Spain gave it back to France in 1800. Three years later, Napoleon Bonaparte sold New Orleans and 40% of what is now the continental U.S. to U.S. President Thomas Jefferson as part of the Louisiana Purchase—at roughly five cents an acre. In 1805, New Orleans was incorporated as a city.

As a major port, the city was assured ongoing growth and prosperity, as well as occasional disturbances. It was the focus of several important battles, including the Battle of New Orleans (the War of 1812) and a Civil War siege in 1862 that left the city in the hands of Union forces.

But neither war nor progress has altered its status as one of the most unusual of U.S. cities. Perhaps that's because of the decades of French rule, its relatively remote location in the Deep South and its mixed population of French, Anglo-Americans, , Italians, Irish, Spanish and Cajuns. More recently, Cuban and Vietnamese immigrants have added even more spice to the cultural gumbo.

Location

Located just behind the New Orleans Convention Center on the Mississippi, the Erato Street and Julia Street cruise terminals are in the heart of downtown with easy access to hotels and attractions. There is an ATM available, as well as a refreshment stand serving snacks, coffee and ice cream, and a souvenir kiosk in case you need to make last-minute purchases before getting back onboard. The terminal is in the same building as the Riverwalk Marketplace, so passengers can do a little extra shopping until it's time to board.

Tourist information is available at the tourist center on Jackson Square, within walking distance of the wharf. In addition, tourist kiosks operated by a private company are located all over town, including next to Cafe du Monde in the French Quarter.

New Orleans is a city where les bons temps rouler (the good times roll), with jazz heard on practically every street corner and the clomp of mule-drawn carriages clattering by. For a taste of the city, take an open-air bus tour through some of the well-known sites.

It's the French Quarter with Jackson Square, the stately mansions around the Garden District and famous St. Charles, known for the St. Charles streetcar, that are sure crowd pleasers in the city. Tours can include a stop at the St. Louis No. 1 Cemetery, considered the "Hollywood" of New Orleans' cemeteries for views of the final resting place of voodoo queen Madame Marie Laveau, among other famous residents. At Lake Pontchartrain, view—or better yet, ride over—the longest bridge in the world, a 24-mi/39-km causeway connecting New Orleans to the lake's Northshore communities. The Audubon Park is splendid, with fountains, picnic areas on the levee, and an old zoo.

For plantation tours, the majesty of Oak Alley Plantation comes alive with the ancient alley of American oaks welcoming visitors. The Laura Plantation is a beautiful example of Creole French architecture. For a more authentic depiction of the American South, a visit to the Whitney Plantation offers visitors the chance to visit a home that's now devoted to the story of slavery in the U.S.

Potpourri

Mardi Gras was a pagan rite of spring before the Roman Catholic Church incorporated it as a last-chance celebration before the rigors of Lent. Mardi Gras literally means Fat Tuesday. It is the day before Ash Wednesday that begins the Lenten season. Mardi Gras was first celebrated by the ancient Greeks more than 5,000 years ago.

The colors of Mardi Gras are purple for justice, green for faith and gold for power. Locals understand that Carnival is a season, not a day—a dizzying array of parades, masked and unmasked balls, pageants and King Cake parties are held around town.

Tennessee Williams wrote A Streetcar Named Desire in his French Quarter apartment on St. Peter Street.

The term Creole has been used to describe people, music, ponies, architecture and, of course, food. But purists insist that it should refer only to people, generally with French or Spanish parents, who were born in Louisiana during the colonial period. Descendants of colonial Creoles often claim the name, too, and those of mixed African and European ancestry are sometimes called "black Creoles" or "Creoles of color."

New Orleans is known as the most haunted city in America, with many B&Bs and hotels claiming to be haunted. If you're not scared of ghosts, take in one of the city's many different haunted tours.

Thanks to a program of generous tax credits for production companies, New Orleans has become a popular filming location, earning itself the nickname Hollywood South. Don't be surprised to see a few celebrities around town. Sandra Bullock and John Goodman own homes in the city.

Brad Pitt is especially popular with the locals for his can-do attitude toward helping the city rebuild following Hurricane Katrina. He has invested and raised more than US$45 million to fund his "Make It Right" project, which built 150 affordable, ecologically sound homes in the Lower Ninth Ward, including one designed by Frank Gehry.

SEE & DO

Sightseeing

The French Quarter, which is where nearly all visitors to New Orleans start their sightseeing, is the oldest part of the city and it's still a wonder—a mix of clubs, souvenir shops, restaurants, voodoo vendors and beautiful homes (you'd be surprised at what lies behind some of the plainest facades).

Some of the prettiest cast-iron balconies are along Royal Street. The cornstalk-motif fence that surrounds the Cornstalk Hotel is particularly striking. Royal Street is also known for its antiques shops and art galleries. Bourbon Street and its cross streets house most of the tourist bars and clubs, but the locals know to go to Frenchmen Street, just outside the French Quarter, to hear some great music. Across the city, you'll find amazing music being played in some of the most unlikely looking locations.

Another French Quarter center of activity is along Decatur Street, near the river. Jackson Square is the main hub there. It was built as a parade ground for the French Army and was later used by the Spanish, Confederate and U.S. armies for the same purpose. St. Louis Cathedral is on Jackson Square, as is the Cabildo.

When you're ready to venture farther afield, head to the Garden District. This area is home to many gorgeous 19th-century mansions that evoke the Old South. A stroll around the Garden District with its quiet, oak-shaded sidewalks is a good respite from the more raucous pleasures of the French Quarter.

Among New Orleans' peculiarities—and unexpectedly popular tourist stops—are the cemeteries, which are aboveground because the city is well below sea level. The whitewashed tombs look like tiny houses, embellished with ornate ironwork and statues of lambs and melancholy angels. Seen from above, the cemeteries resemble miniature towns—so they are sometimes called "Cities of the Dead."

Casinos

If you like to gamble, there are three casinos in and around New Orleans: the Vegas-style Harrah's just outside of the French Quarter, Boomtown on the West Bank of the Mississippi, and the floating Treasure Chest Casino not far from the airport. You must be 21 to gamble or enter a gaming facility in the state of Louisiana, and it's common to be asked for a picture ID. Slot machines can be found in bars, restaurants and even laundromats around town. Harrah's New Orleans 228 Poydras St. This huge casino at the foot of Canal Street has 1,700 slot machines and more than 100 tables featuring 10 varieties of table games. There is New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 nightlife at Masquerade and Harrah's Signature Bar, along with Phone: 504-533-6000 American casual eats at Manning's Eat-Drink-Cheer, seafood at Acme http://www.harrahsneworleans.com Oyster House and meaty options at Besh Steak and Ruth's Chris Steakhouse. Daily 24 hours. 228 Poydras St., New Orleans. Phone 504- 533-6000. Toll-free 800-427-7247. http://www.harrahsneworleans.com. Jackson Square Jackson Square A former military parade site, Jackson Square has served as the center of the city since it was built in 1721. A statue of Andrew Jackson, who New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 led the defense of the city in the Battle of New Orleans (1814-15), http://www.jackson-square.com stands in the center of the square. It's surrounded by many historic buildings, including St. Louis Cathedral, and is home to numerous street performers, vendors and artists. The Pontabla apartments (the oldest apartments in the U.S.) have vendors and restaurants on the ground floor, and housing on the second and third floors. Jackson Square (located between Decatur and Chartres streets and St. Ann and St. Peter streets, on the river side of the French Quarter), New Orleans. http://www.jackson-square.com.

Metairie Cemetery 5100 Pontchartrain Blvd. Although not as old or as well-known as the other cemeteries, Metairie is just as interesting. The aboveground tombs and family mausoleums New Orleans, Louisiana 70124 reflect the excess and fantasy of the Victorian architecture that was in Phone: 504-486-6331 vogue at the time of its founding. Many of the tombs recall Greek temples, Egyptian pyramids, Gothic cathedrals (complete with stained- glass windows) and a multitude of other eccentric styles. A favorite is the "Ruined Castle" tomb of the Egan family, which is designed after an old chapel from the family estate in Ireland. Daily 7:30 am-5:30 pm. Free. 5100 Pontchartrain Blvd. (take the City Park exit off ), New Orleans. Phone 504-486-6331.

St. Augustine Church 1210 Governor Nicholls St., Treme The oldest African American Catholic church in the U.S. sits on Treme New Orleans, Louisiana 70115 property once owned by a freed slave. In 1834 it became the country's first elementary school for enslaved peoples and free girls of color. The Phone: 504-525-5934 Carmelite nuns took it over in 1840 and ran it until 1926. In the 1840s, https://staugchurch.org both white people and freed people of color were allowed to buy pews for their families to use in worship; the freed people of color went a step further and bought pews for slaves, thus creating the first integrated congregation in the country. A moving Tomb of the Unknown Slave exhibit stands outside. Don't miss the 10 am Sunday Mass—it's accompanied by notable jazz musicians. 1210 Governor Nicholls St., Treme, New Orleans. Phone 504-525-5934. https://staugchurch.org.

St. Louis Cathedral 615 Pere Antoine Alley Considered the oldest active cathedral in the U.S., this sweeping New Orleans, Louisiana 70116-3291 French-style church dates from 1789. The interior is full of interesting statues and frescoes, and the choir is lovely. Daily 8:30 am-4 pm. 615 Phone: 504-525-9585 Pere Antoine Alley (at Jackson Square), New Orleans. Phone 504-525- http://www.stlouiscathedral.org 9585. http://www.stlouiscathedral.org.

St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 425 Basin St. The most historic cemetery, located near the French Quarter, is small but packed with interesting structures from the 1700s, not to mention New Orleans, Louisiana 70119 the supposed grave of voodoo priestess Marie Laveau. Daily 9:15 am-4 Phone: 504-596-3050 pm. 425 Basin St., New Orleans. Phone 504-596-3050. https://nolacatholiccemeteries.org/st- https://nolacatholiccemeteries.org/st-louis-cemetery-1. louis-cemetery-1

The 1850 House 523 Ann St. Located in the Pontalba Buildings, built in 1850, this is a re-creation of a typical antebellum row house as it would have looked in the mid-19th New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 century. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-4:30 pm. US$5 adults. 523 Ann St., Phone: 504-524-9118 New Orleans. Phone 504-524-9118. Toll-free 800-524-9118. https://louisianastatemuseum.org/museum/1850- https://louisianastatemuseum.org/museum/1850-house. house

The Arsenal 615 St. Peter Built in 1839, this Greek Revival building is located adjacent to the New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 Cabildo and has had many uses including the Orleans Artillery, supply Phone: 504-568-6968 storage for Confederate troops, a federal military prison and a police http://www.louisianastatemuseum.org/museums/the- station. In 1874 it was the site of a battle between the white supremacist Crescent City White League and the integrationist Metropolitan Police. cabildo Transferred to the Louisiana State Museum in 1914, it houses military objects. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-4:30 pm. US$10 adults. 615 St. Peter, New Orleans. Phone 504-568-6968. Toll-free 800-568-6968. http://www.louisianastatemuseum.org/museums/the-cabildo.

The Cabildo 701 Chartres St. It was built between 1795 and 1799 and, at one point, was the home of the Spanish colonial government. The Louisiana Purchase, which New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 transferred Louisiana from the French empire to the U.S. in 1803, was Phone: 504-568-6968 completed on the second floor of this National Historic Landmark. The http://www.louisianastatemuseum.org/museums/the- Cabildo was heavily damaged in a fire in 1988 but restored authentically cabildo over the next five years. The Cabildo is now part of the Louisiana State Museum and houses a variety of Louisiana artifacts as well as the death mask of Napoleon. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-4:30 pm. US$10 adults. 701 Chartres St., New Orleans. Phone 504-568-6968. Toll-free 800-568- 6968. http://www.louisianastatemuseum.org/museums/the-cabildo.

The Old U.S. Mint 400 Esplanade Ave. The Old U.S. Mint was built in 1835; minting began in 1838 and continued until 1909. It produced both American and Confederate coins New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 (the only mint in the U.S. to do so). The building now houses the New Phone: 504-568-6993 Orleans Jazz Museum. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-4:30 pm. US$8 adults. https://nolajazzmuseum.org 400 Esplanade Ave., New Orleans. Phone 504-568-6993. Toll-free 800- 568-6968. https://nolajazzmuseum.org.

The Presbytere 751 Chartres St. The Presbytere was designed in 1791 to match the Cabildo, or Town New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 Hall, on the other side of St. Louis Cathedral. Initially used for commercial purposes, it became a courthouse in 1834 and remained in Phone: 504-568-6968 that capacity until 1911 when it became part of the Louisiana State https://louisianastatemuseum.org/museum/presbytere Museum. It features changing exhibits as well as permanent displays, including Mardi Gras: It's Carnival Time in Louisiana, which captures the essence of the event with rare artifacts, elaborate displays and imaginative technology, as well as the riveting multimedia exhibit titled Living With Hurricanes, Katrina and Beyond, a vivid look at post-Katrina life. The installation brings together objects and accompanying images, personal histories and videos that tell the story of Katrina and the people of New Orleans. The museum spent years salvaging and collecting more than 2,000 artifacts that detail the Gulf Coast's devastation in Katrina's chaotic aftermath. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-4:30 pm. US$7 adults. 751 Chartres St., New Orleans. Phone 504-568-6968. Toll-free 800-568-6968. https://louisianastatemuseum.org/museum/presbytere.

BackStreet Cultural Museum 1116 Henriette Delille St. A local favorite, this museum features information about the cultural New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 traditions and history of the African American community within New Orleans, including Skull and Bone gangs, jazz funerals and Mardi Gras Phone: 504-657-6700 Indians. Tuesday-Friday 10 am-3 pm, Saturday 10 am-4 pm. US$10. http://www.backstreetmuseum.org 1116 Henriette Delille St. (also known as St. Claude Avenue), New Orleans. Phone 504-657-6700. http://www.backstreetmuseum.org.

Contemporary Arts Center 900 Camp St., Warehouse Arts District An impressive visual and performing-arts facility, around which all other Warehouse Arts District gallery activity is clustered. Exhibits change New Orleans, Louisiana 70130-3908 frequently there, but you might see anything from an electronic music Phone: 504-528-3800 recital to modern opera to computer-assisted drawings. The Arts District http://www.cacno.org White Linen night on the first Saturday in August benefits the CAC and includes free admission to 21 galleries and museums. On the first Saturday in October, the CAC sponsors Art for Art's Sake, which draws thousands to the Warehouse Arts District and to art spaces around town for coordinated exhibitions. There are also live-music performances and lectures on the arts. Wednesday-Monday 11 am-5 pm. US$10 adults. 900 Camp St., Warehouse Arts District, New Orleans. Phone 504-528- 3800. http://www.cacno.org.

Historic New Orleans Collection 533 Royal St., French Quarter This museum houses a pictorial tour of Louisiana history, with original maps, documents, pictures and furnishings. A free public gallery on the New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 first floor features changing exhibits related to Louisiana culture and Phone: 504-523-4662 history. Tuesday-Saturday 9:30 am-4:30 pm, Sunday 10:30 am-4:30 http://www.hnoc.org pm. Free. Guided tours US$5 Tuesday-Sunday 11 am, and 2 and 3 pm; also at 10 am Tuesday-Saturday. 533 Royal St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-523-4662. http://www.hnoc.org.

House of Dance and Feathers 1317 Tupelo St. A favorite in the Lower Ninth Ward, Ronald Lewis' House of Dance and Feathers is a unique collection of Mardi Gras Indian and New Orleans, Louisiana 70117 costumes, photos and history. He has rebuilt the collection he lost Phone: 504-957-2678 during Katrina, and this backyard museum introduces visitors to a http://www.houseofdanceandfeathers.org culture most know little about. 1317 Tupelo St. (lakeside of Claiborne), New Orleans. Phone 504-957-2678. http://www.houseofdanceandfeathers.org.

Louisiana Children's Museum City Park New Orleans, 15 Henry The two-story historic warehouse is jam-packed with hands-on activities Thomas Drive that make it fun to learn about science, math, art, theater and music. In addition to a host of please-touch exhibits, there are interactive, role- New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 playing activities such as a kids' cafe and a play supermarket. Tuesday- Phone: 504-523-1357 Saturday 9:30 am-4:30 pm, Sunday noon-4:30 pm. US$14. City Park http://www.lcm.org New Orleans, 15 Henry Thomas Drive, New Orleans. Phone 504-523- 1357. http://www.lcm.org.

Louisiana's Civil War Museum at Confederate Memorial Hall 929 Camp St., Warehouse District Founded by veterans in the late 19th century, it's one of the oldest museums in Louisiana, with an important collection of U.S. Civil War New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 artifacts. Among the more unusual memorabilia on display are a crown Phone: 504-523-4522 of thorns given to Jefferson Davis (president of the Confederacy) by http://www.confederatemuseum.com Pope Pius IX and political cartoons depicting Benjamin Butler, the hated Union general in charge of the occupation of New Orleans. Tuesday- Saturday 10 am-4 pm. US$10 adults. 929 Camp St., Warehouse District, New Orleans. Phone 504-523-4522. http://www.confederatemuseum.com.

National World War II Museum 945 Magazine St., Warehouse District Originally named the National D-Day Museum, this museum tells the story of the invasion with more than 3,500 artifacts, documents and New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 photographs. It remains open to the public while undergoing a massive Phone: 504-528-1944 expansion to incorporate The Road to Victory: A Vision for Future http://www.nationalww2museum.org Generations, an exhibit depicting the entire story of the American experience in World War II. This US$370-million expansion project will quadruple the size of the original museum. Many of the new programs are already in place, making this a must-see stop for history lovers of all ages. The museum offers a variety of special programs, including film screenings, live music and lectures. Several short documentary films and a replica of the Higgins boat, the landing craft used in the invasion, are also featured. Don't miss the Beyond All Boundaries 4-D multimedia show at the Victory Theater, produced and narrated by Tom Hanks. The American Sector Restaurant and The Soda Shop both feature foods that World War II-era Americans would have eaten, but with a modern twist. Daily 9 am-5 pm. US$28.50 adults. 945 Magazine St., Warehouse District, New Orleans. Phone 504-528-1944. http://www.nationalww2museum.org.

New Orleans African American Museum 1418 Gov. Nicholls St. Located in the Meilleur-Goldthwaite House—a Creole villa built in 1828- New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 29 along with gardens and examples of typical New Orleans architecture including shotgun houses, Creole cottages and slave quarters. Features Phone: 504-218-8254 work by African American artists and exhibits highlighting the history of http://noaam.org blacks across the U.S., but particularly in New Orleans. Thursday- Saturday 11 am-4 pm, or by appointment. US$20 adults. 1418 Gov. Nicholls St., New Orleans. Phone 504-218-8254. http://noaam.org.

New Orleans Museum of Art 1 Collins Diboll Circle, City Park One of the premier art museums in the South, this facility is located in City Park. It escaped Katrina's floods thanks to its elevation. Opened in New Orleans, Louisiana 70124 1911 with just nine pieces of art, its collection includes French and Phone: 504-658-4100 American art, photography, glass, and African and Japanese works. The http://www.noma.org incredible jewelry work of Peter Carl Faberge is especially popular. The 5-acre/2-hectare Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden includes more than 60 works by the likes of Henry Moore, Pierre Auguste Renoir and George Segal, set amid rolling hills, live oaks and a pretty lagoon filled with hungry ducks. Tuesday-Friday 10 am-6 pm, Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday 11 am-5 pm. US$15 adults. 1 Collins Diboll Circle, City Park, New Orleans. Phone 504-658-4100. http://www.noma.org.

Ogden Museum of Southern Art 925 Camp St., Warehouse District Devoted to southern art, this museum (part of the University of New Orleans) offers various exhibits, ranging from photography and New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 sculpture to paintings and drawings, throughout the year. Highlights Phone: 504-539-9650 include historic Louisiana portraits and an exhibition on Southern http://www.ogdenmuseum.org regionalists. Take a break on the rooftop terrace, which offers a beautiful view of the city. Friday-Wednesday 10 am-5 pm, Thursday 10 am-8 pm. US$13.50 adults. 925 Camp St., Warehouse District, New Orleans. Phone 504-539-9650. http://www.ogdenmuseum.org.

Southern Food and Beverage Museum 1609 Oretha C. Haley Blvd. SoFAB is dedicated to the discovery, understanding and celebration of the food and drink prominent within Southern culture. Visitors can New Orleans, Louisiana 70113 peruse its vast culinary literature collection, which includes more than Phone: 504-267-7490 11,000 volumes of cookbooks and more than 5,000 menus, as well as https://natfab.org/southern-food-and- recipes and archival documents. Food lovers can expect to see a variety beverage of exhibits, oral histories, videos and other research about food and drinks of the South, the many ethnicities that combined to create uniquely Southern dishes, and the traditions and recipes handed down for generations. Wednesday-Monday 11 am-5:30 pm. US$10.50 adults. 1609 Oretha C. Haley Blvd., New Orleans. Phone 504-267-7490. https://natfab.org/southern-food-and-beverage.

Faubourg Marigny New Orleans, Louisiana 70117 With a few days to explore, reach beyond the grace and sass of the French Quarter to the Faubourg Marigny, an original Creole neighborhood that has become a mecca of nightclubs, bars and restaurants frequented by more locals than tourists. Don't miss the night Frenchmen Art Market, a treasure trove of locally made goods (Thursday-Saturday 7 pm-1 am, Sunday 6 pm-midnight).

French Quarter and Bourbon Street New Orleans, Louisiana 70112 During the day, the Quarter is full of charming bed-and-breakfasts, http://www.neworleanscvb.com/visit/neighborhoods/french- luxury hotels, antiques stores, tacky T-shirt shops and delightful quarter restaurants. At night, however, and on Bourbon Street in particular, things get a little unpredictable. Strip joints and live-music clubs come alive, and bars such as Pat O'Brien's and the Cat's Meow begin to fill up with all-night revelers. It's best, though, not to wander alone down some of the Quarter's more secluded streets late at night. http://www.neworleanscvb.com/visit/neighborhoods/french-quarter.

Garden District New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 A lush residential neighborhood with magnificent Greek Revival, Victorian and Italianate mansions. The 12-block area between St. Charles Avenue, Jackson Avenue, Louisiana Avenue and Magazine Street was built in the early 1800s and is now a National Historic Landmark. Meander downriver (east, back toward downtown) through this neighborhood of ornate wrought-iron gates, towering Greek columns, and old oak and magnolia trees. Walking-tour maps of the Garden District are available from the tourist office on Jackson Square.

The Moonwalk New Orleans, Louisiana Stretching the entire length of the Quarter along the Mississippi River, the Moonwalk offers easy access to shops and restaurants, the Aquarium of the Americas and riverboats. The Moonwalk is a favorite choice for an evening stroll for both locals and visitors, particularly on a clear night with a full moon. Don't wander there alone late at night.

Uptown New Orleans, Louisiana The Uptown neighborhood is a largely residential area located between St. Charles Avenue and the Mississippi River. Along Magazine Street, Uptown's main drag, there are a number of unique shops and boutiques, as well as music clubs, pubs, restaurants and coffeehouses. It's an ideal place to go if you want to hang out with the locals and experience a different New Orleans vibe than you get in the French Quarter or downtown.

Audubon Park 6500 Magazine St. Spreading live oaks shade this lovely park, bordered by some of Uptown's finest houses and the Audubon Zoo. It's a popular spot for New Orleans, Louisiana 70118 picnicking, bicycling and jogging. Several large ponds are home to http://www.auduboninstitute.org/audubon- ducks, turtles and wildlife. Open daily till sunset. The entrance is on St. park Charles Avenue across from Tulane and Loyola universities, and the park spreads past Magazine Street to the Audubon Zoo and the Mississippi River. Daily 5 am-10 pm. 6500 Magazine St., New Orleans. http://www.auduboninstitute.org/audubon-park.

City Park 1 Palm Drive, Mid-City One of the oldest parks in the US, this 1,300-acre/526-hectare park has the world's biggest collection of mature, live oak trees including some New Orleans, Louisiana 70124 that are more than 600 years old. At the end of the Canal Street Phone: 504-482-4888 streetcar line and offering sports, picnic and playground facilities, the http://www.neworleanscitypark.com park is easily accessible and fun for the whole family. Additional attractions include the Carousel Gardens Amusement Park, Storyland, swan boat rides and the Botanical Gardens. The annual Celebration in the Oaks takes place in December. The lights extravaganza features a 20-ft-/6-m-tall poinsettia tree, a Gallery of Children's Trees, Garden Club Wreaths, the Cajun Night Before Christmas and several other large exhibits. There's no entry fee for City Park, although certain activities have individual costs. 1 Palm Drive, Mid-City, New Orleans. Phone 504-482-4888. http://www.neworleanscitypark.com.

Crescent Park North Peters Street This park runs from Elysian Fields Avenue into the Marigny and New Orleans, Louisiana Bywater. Its 20 acres/8 hectares of landscape provide areas for https://crescentparknola.org picnicking, jogging and biking. Daily 6 am-7:30 pm. North Peters Street, New Orleans. https://crescentparknola.org.

Longue Vue House and Gardens 7 Bamboo Road This classic estate dating from 1939 encompasses 8 acres/3 hectares of gardens and fountains. The Greek Revival mansion holds scores of New Orleans, Louisiana 70124 English and U.S. antiques, tapestries, art and pottery. Discovery Garden Phone: 504-488-5488 is a hands-on interactive area that invites youngsters to enjoy such http://www.longuevue.com garden wonders as the Herb Maze, the Secret Garden, a vegetable garden and a worm dig. Monday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday 1-5 pm. House and garden admission US$12 adults. 7 Bamboo Road (about a 15-minute drive west of the French Quarter), New Orleans. Phone 504- 488-5488. http://www.longuevue.com.

Sydney & Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden 1 Collins Diboll Circle (in City Park) To the left of the New Orleans Museum of Art is a beautiful sculpture garden featuring more than 60 works from both local and international New Orleans, Louisiana 70124 artists. Winter daily 10 am-5 pm; summer daily 10 am-6 pm. Free. 1 https://noma.org/sculpture- Collins Diboll Circle (in City Park), New Orleans. garden/background https://noma.org/sculpture-garden/background.

Woldenberg Riverfront Park 1 Canal St. This park's 16 acres/6.5 hectares of landscaped green space stretch along the Mississippi River from Canal Street to the Moonwalk. More New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 than 300 oak trees, magnolias and crepe myrtles, as well as a large Phone: 504-565-3033 public art display, are on the park's grounds. Riverboats often dock https://audubonnatureinstitute.org/woldenberg- nearby. Don't be surprised by the number of homeless people who park frequent the riverfront: It's a sad reality that isn't a threat to personal safety, but can be unsettling. Sunday-Thursday 6 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 6 am-midnight. 1 Canal St. (at the Mississippi River), New Orleans. Phone 504-565-3033. https://audubonnatureinstitute.org/woldenberg-park.

Audubon Aquarium of the Americas 1 Canal St. Otters, turtles, parakeets and sharks are sure to enchant everyone, but the penguins are a perennial favorite. Exhibits illustrate sea life from the New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 Gulf of Mexico, Caribbean reefs, and the Amazon and Mississippi rivers. Phone: 504-581-4629 Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm. US$29.95 adults. 1 Canal St. (along the https://audubonnatureinstitute.org Mississippi River), New Orleans. Phone 504-581-4629. Toll-free 800- 774-7394. https://audubonnatureinstitute.org.

Audubon Butterfly Garden and Insectarium 423 Canal St. Get up close and personal with all things buggy at this attraction that offers live insect encounters and insight into global insect customs. New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 Visitors can slog through a Louisiana swamp, view the latest Phone: 504-581-4629 technologies used in pest control, or enjoy the tranquility of a Japanese https://audubonnatureinstitute.org/insectarium butterfly garden, complete with hundreds of butterflies in free flight. You'll even get a chance to sample some edible bug snacks such as crispy Cajun crickets. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-4:30 pm. US$22.95 adults. 423 Canal St. (U.S. Custom House), New Orleans. Phone 504- 581-4629. https://audubonnatureinstitute.org/insectarium.

Audubon Zoo 6500 Magazine St., Uptown Near the river end of Audubon Park, this beautifully landscaped facility is considered one of the top five zoos in the country. It houses more than New Orleans, Louisiana 70118 1,800 animals in simulated natural habitats, including an impressive Phone: 504-581-4629 swamp area full of alligators. Tuesday-Friday 10 am-4 pm, Saturday http://www.auduboninstitute.org/visit/zoo and Sunday 10 am-5 pm. US$22.95 adults. 6500 Magazine St., Uptown, New Orleans. Phone 504-581-4629. Toll-free 800-774-7394. http://www.auduboninstitute.org/visit/zoo. Blaine Kern's Mardi Gras World 1380 Place Watch artists preparing floats for Mardi Gras at the workshops and warehouses of the world's largest float builder. Towering figures of New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 Caesar, Marilyn Monroe, Elvis and Godzilla create a surreal setting and Phone: 504-361-7821 a year-round Mardi Gras experience. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. US$22 http://www.mardigrasworld.com adults. 1380 Port of New Orleans Place, New Orleans. Phone 504-361- 7821. Toll-free 800-866-7026. http://www.mardigrasworld.com.

Recreation

Sure, New Orleans is known as The Big Easy because of its casual, laid-back atmosphere, but that doesn't mean that locals are afraid to break a sweat.

Two of the best places to bike or run are Audubon Park, which has a bike trail, and the peaceful streets of the Garden District. One of the residents' favorite places to jog is along the streetcar lines. If you do this, watch out for cars making quick turns on the short cross streets.

Golf is also popular in New Orleans since the weather allows players to hit the links year-round. Visitors can play at a number of public courses, including those in Audubon Park and City Park. (You can ride horses in those parks, too.) If you want to go boating or sailing, Lake Pontchartrain is the best place.

Beaches

Just an hour away from New Orleans, the Mississippi Gulf Coast is the closest beach area to the city and dotted with casinos and sleepy towns such as Ocean Springs, Mississippi. Wide, sandy beaches await, along with the calm gulf waters. The paved top of the Mississippi River levee is popular with cyclists who train on the 22-mi/35-km route to St. Charles Parish. It's part of the 3,000-mi/4,828-km Mississippi River Bike Trail. Lafitte Greenway New Orleans, Louisiana 70119 This 2.5-mi/4-km route was built for both pedestrians and cyclists. The trail connects neighborhoods from Armstrong Park to City Park and Phone: 504-462-0645 offers paths, recreation fields and about 500 shade trees. Daily 6 am-6 http://www.lafittegreenway.org pm. Phone 504-462-0645. http://www.lafittegreenway.org.

With more than 5,000 mi/8,050 km of navigable waterways, Louisiana is chock-full of boating opportunities. The 630-sq-mi/1,632-sq-km Lake Pontchartrain offers opportunities for sailing, powerboating and kayaking.

Paddle and row boats can be rented at the north side of Big Lake in City Park. The dock, located at 8 Friedrichs Ave., is open Thursday- Sunday 10 am-5 pm. There's even a genuine Venetian gondola—and Cajun gondolier—to squire you around the waterway. Phone 504- 483-9375. Must be age 17 or older and have a driver's license or state ID to rent.

Southern Yacht Club 105 N. Roadway The clubhouse of New Orleans' venerable yacht club (formed in 1849) is home to a variety of special events year-round. 105 N. Roadway (West New Orleans, Louisiana LA 70124 End), New Orleans. Phone 504-288-4200. Phone: 504-288-4200 http:/www.southernyachtclub.org. http:/www.southernyachtclub.org Anglers can book an excursion with a local chartered fishing company. Popular choices include day fishing for bass, catfish and perch in City Park's 11 mi/18 km of lagoons, or navigating Louisiana's bayous. The Louisiana Catch and Cook program brings together fishing and the restaurant industry to allow anglers to dine on their catch. https://fishla.org/category/catch. Audubon Park Golf Course 6500 Magazine St. This is an 18-hole, par-62 course. Monday 10 am-6:30 pm, Tuesday- Friday 7 am-6:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday 6:30 am-6:30 pm. 6500 New Orleans, Louisiana 70118 Magazine St. (Uptown), New Orleans. Phone 504-283-0770. Phone: 504-283-0770 https://audubonnatureinstitute.org/golf. https://audubonnatureinstitute.org/golf

North Golf Course 1051 Filmore Ave. This 18-hole golf course in City Park is both accessible and affordable. Featuring four sets of tees, the course ranges from 5,740 yards/5,250 New Orleans, Louisiana 70124 meters to 4,300 yards/3,930 meters, including eight holes featuring Phone: 504-483-9410 water. 1051 Filmore Ave., New Orleans. Phone 504-483-9410. http://www.cityparkgolf.com. http://www.cityparkgolf.com

Jean Lafitte National Historic Park and Preserve 419 Decatur St., French Quarter This park actually encompasses six different sites in south Louisiana, including the Chalmette Battlefield (location of the Battle of New Orleans New Orleans, Louisiana 70130-1035 in 1815), the French Quarter and Barataria Preserve. That preserve is Phone: 504-589-2133 laced with hiking trails through wetlands as well as historic and http://www.nps.gov/jela archaeological sites. Park rangers conduct walking tours at 10 am Friday-Monday, but self-guided tours are always available. The park is about a 45-minute drive from the French Quarter. Free admission. 419 Decatur St., French Quarter (park headquarters), New Orleans. Phone 504-589-2133. http://www.nps.gov/jela.

Nightlife

Louis Armstrong, Jelly Roll Morton, Pete Fountain, Fats Domino and Al Hirt—each got his start in New Orleans. Still home to some of the world's leading musicians, New Orleans is one of the best cities in the U.S. for live music. It's also rare among North American cities for having no mandatory closing time for bars—New Orleans' nightlife is seemingly infinite and as colorful as the rest of the city's character. In many bars, the party doesn't slow down until after the sun comes up.

Visitors unversed in jazz history should know that traditional, classic New Orleans jazz is different from modern jazz. It's more melodic and easier to dance to than modern jazz. Although the French Quarter is historically linked with jazz, there aren't enough clubs there now to call it the center of the New Orleans music scene. Bourbon Street also has a few traditional jazz, and music clubs, along with a handful of bars featuring loud cover bands. Locals will tell you that Frenchmen Street in the Faubourg Marigny is the best place for live music—you can find clubs such as Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro there.

New Orleans is also recognized for its brass bands, which generally play a lively, funkier version of traditional jazz. Brass bands often provide the music at jazz funerals, which means they have to be mobile (no full drum sets—they can't be carried down the street). For visitors, it's easier to catch them in the clubs: Look for shows at d.b.a., the or Tipitina's uptown and be prepared to dance all night.

A cluster of gay bars is at the far end of Bourbon Street, heading downriver toward the jazz, blues and alt-rock clubs and bars in the Faubourg Marigny neighborhood.

If you venture out of the French Quarter, you can catch some of the best zydeco music around at Mid-City Lanes Rock 'n' Bowl most Thursday nights. And when you get tired of dancing, amble over to the bowling lanes and roll a few. Affectionately known to locals as Rock 'n' Bowl, Mid-City Lanes has attracted a slew of celebrities (including Mick Jagger, Tom Cruise and Kate Hudson), who are treated with consummate indifference by the owner and staff.

Club life also thrives Uptown and in the Warehouse District, which is adjacent to the Central Business District and along St. Claude Avenue on the border between the Marigny and Treme. But take a cab, catch a streetcar or stay in a group—city residents advise against walking alone from the French Quarter or from Central Business District hotels late at night.

All bars in New Orleans are smoke-free.

Bars, Taverns & Pubs

Allways Lounge and Theatre 2240 St. Claude Ave., Faubourg Marigny Allways is a unique neighborhood venue featuring a mix of live music, readings and performances. You never know what you might see— New Orleans, Louisiana 70117 erotic readings one night, a queer comedian another, and a hippie folk Phone: 504-218-5778 singer the next. An attached theater provides a venue for local and http://theallwayslounge.net visiting performers. Cover varies. Hours and prices change for theater— check the website for show details and pricing. Tuesday-Thursday 6 pm-midnight, Friday and Saturday 6 pm-2 am. 2240 St. Claude Ave., Faubourg Marigny, New Orleans. Phone 504-218-5778. http://theallwayslounge.net.

Bacchanal Wine 600 Poland Ave., Bywater For a unique wine experience off the beaten path, travel to the Bywater and join locals at what is affectionately called "NOLA's backyard party." New Orleans, Louisiana 70117 Upon walking into Bacchanal, you're greeted by hundreds of wines Phone: 504-948-9111 ready to purchase in the old-world wine shop; then, wander through the http://www.bacchanalwine.com backdoors and enter the dreamy courtyard. The sounds of live jazz provide a laidback, but romantic, atmosphere for sipping and sharing charcuterie. Venture upstairs for originally crafted cocktails and indoor seating. Local jazz musicians are featured daily. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-midnight, Friday and Saturday 11 am-1 am. 600 Poland Ave., Bywater, New Orleans. Phone 504-948-9111. http://www.bacchanalwine.com.

Bouligny Tavern 3641 Magazine St. This hip and handsome cocktail bar serves classic and original libations, New Orleans, Louisiana 70115 along with small plates such as gouda beignets and grilled Spanish octopus. Monday-Thursday 4 pm-midnight, Friday and Saturday 4 pm-2 Phone: 504-891-1810 am. 3641 Magazine St., New Orleans. Phone 504-891-1810. http://www.boulignytavern.com http://www.boulignytavern.com.

Cane & Table 1113 Decatur St., French Quarter You're in for a treat at this rum-centric bar conceived by the same folks who own Cure. A sophisticated bar unlike any in town and a game- New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 changing restaurant touting Caribbean-infused delectables, Cane & Phone: 504-581-1112 Table has a lovely back courtyard where you can enjoy sambal- http://www.caneandtablenola.com swabbed fried ribs and a Raisin Cane, a moody cocktail made with Oloroso sherry and aged dark rum. Monday-Thursday 5-11 pm, Friday and Saturday noon-midnight, Sunday noon-3 pm. 1113 Decatur St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-581-1112. http://www.caneandtablenola.com.

Columns Hotel 3811 St. Charles Ave., Uptown It's a purely New Orleans experience to sip a cool drink on the porch of The Columns, taking in the sights and sounds of St. Charles Avenue. New Orleans, Louisiana 70115 The lovely Queen Anne mansion oozes southern decadence. Monday- Phone: 504-899-9308 Friday 5 pm-midnight, Saturday 10:30 am-midnight, Sunday 10:30 am- http://www.thecolumns.com 11 pm. 3811 St. Charles Ave., Uptown, New Orleans. Phone 504-899- 9308. http://www.thecolumns.com.

Crescent City Brewhouse 527 Decatur St., French Quarter One of the few local restaurants that brews its own beer—try the four- New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 beer sampler. Food (gumbo, crab cakes, steaks, tuna) is very good. The Southern crispy duck is a favorite. The Brewhouse also features live Phone: 504-522-0571 jazz nightly and exhibits by local artists. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, http://www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com Friday and Saturday 11 am-11 pm. 527 Decatur St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-522-0571. http://www.crescentcitybrewhouse.com.

Cure 4905 Freret St. The bar is set pretty high for cocktails in New Orleans—after all, the first New Orleans, Louisiana 70115 one was invented there. Cure aims to take people back to "another time where the experience of having a cocktail and a bite to eat was both Phone: 504-302-2357 healthful and enjoyable." Munchies include salads, cheese plates, http://www.curenola.com tartines and spiced almonds. Monday-Thursday 5 pm-midnight, Friday and Saturday 5 pm-2 am, Sunday 3 pm-midnight. 4905 Freret St., New Orleans. Phone 504-302-2357. http://www.curenola.com. d.b.a. 618 Frenchmen St., Faubourg Marigny With a massive rotating selection of draft beers on tap and plenty more in the bottles, this Faubourg Marigny club is a popular haunt with beer New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 drinkers. There is live music every night of the week, and covers are Phone: 504-942-3731 usually low, making this a great place to duck in for a good time. http://www.dbaneworleans.com Monday-Thursday from 5 pm, Friday-Sunday from 4 pm. 618 Frenchmen St., Faubourg Marigny, New Orleans. Phone 504-942-3731. http://www.dbaneworleans.com.

Hermes Bar 725 St. Louis St., French Quarter This bar at Antoine's restaurant serves sandwiches and appetizers in a more casual setting. It's a great spot for a snack and a drink. Daily 11:30 New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 am-9 pm. 725 St. Louis St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504- Phone: 504-581-4422 581-4422. http://www.antoines.com. http://www.antoines.com

Kajun's Pub 2256 St. Claude Ave., Faubourg Marigny A popular neighborhood bar and one of four at the intersection of New Orleans, Louisiana 70117 Marigny and St. Claude. Owned by Joann Guidos, who was featured in Dan Baum's post-Katrina book Nine Lives. Internet access and coffee Phone: 504-947-3735 available. Karaoke every night at 5 pm. Daily 24 hours. 2256 St. Claude http://www.kajunpub.com Ave., Faubourg Marigny, New Orleans. Phone 504-947-3735. http://www.kajunpub.com.

Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop Bar 941 Bourbon St., French Quarter This establishment claims to be the only building of French architecture New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 that survived the great fires of the French Quarter and the oldest surviving bar in the U.S. Now a popular piano bar, it is said to be the Phone: 504-593-9761 legitimate establishment that served as a front for 19th-century http://www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com smugglers Jean and Pierre Lafitte. This original structure is a great place for a purple drink on Bourbon Street. The only electricity in the building runs to the bar itself: Tables are lit by candlelight. Daily from 10:30 am. 941 Bourbon St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504- 593-9761. http://www.lafittesblacksmithshop.com.

Loa 221 Camp St. This bar oozes sex appeal. Small and situated in the ultracool International House hotel (favored by record execs and Johnny Depp), New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 it's just two blocks from the French Quarter but feels worlds away from Phone: 504-553-9550 Bourbon Street's frat boys and bachelorette parties. Its name means http://www.ihhotel.com/bar.html "divine spirits" in voodoo, and there's even a voodoo altar at the entrance. It's entirely lit by candles after dark. Daily. 221 Camp St., New Orleans. Phone 504-553-9550. http://www.ihhotel.com/bar.html.

Mimi's in the Marigny 2601 Royal St. Hands down one of the coolest bars in Nola. From the outside, it's an unassuming white Victorian in a residential part of town, straddling the New Orleans, Louisiana 70117 Bywater and Faubourg Marigny neighborhoods. But inside: Wow. The Phone: 504-872-9868 first floor is hipster chic—faded couches and a big ol' bar where http://www.mimismarigny.com everyone knows your name. On the second floor, DJ Soul Sister spins beats on Saturday. There's also live music most nights. Great tapas, too —goat cheese croquettes and smoked salmon go perfectly with a martini. Monday night swing dance lessons bring out an eclectic crowd. Daily 11 am-5 am. 2601 Royal St., New Orleans. Phone 504-872-9868. http://www.mimismarigny.com.

Napoleon House 500 Chartres St., French Quarter A dimly lit corner bar with paint peeling off the walls, the Napoleon New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 House is so atmospheric—it plays only opera and classical music—that it's a favorite location for movies filmed in New Orleans. The building Phone: 504-524-9752 was constructed for the exiled emperor himself, according to legend, but http://www.napoleonhouse.com he died on St. Helena before rescuers could spirit him away to New Orleans. It's a good story, but the Pimm's Cup, a refreshing gin-based drink flavored with fruit and herbs, is even better. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-11 pm. 500 Chartres St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-524-9752. http://www.napoleonhouse.com.

Old Absinthe House 240 Bourbon St., French Quarter This is where the Absinthe Frappe was invented, and it's still served there today, along with a number of other cocktails. In its 200-plus New Orleans, Louisiana 70112 years, Old Absinthe House has hosted such luminaries as Mark Twain Phone: 504-523-3181 and Frank Sinatra. Sunday-Wednesday 9 am-3 am, Thursday-Saturday https://www.ruebourbon.com/old- 9 am-5 am. 240 Bourbon St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504- 523-3181. https://www.ruebourbon.com/old-absinthe-house. absinthe-house

Pat O'Brien's 718 St. Peter St., French Quarter In business since 1933, Pat O'Brien's is the best-known drinking establishment in New Orleans. Visitors can order the famous Hurricane New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 (a potent rum-based drink) at one of five bars. It's said that Pat O's sells Phone: 504-525-4823 more rum than any other bar in the world. Be aware that there may be a http://www.patobriens.com line to get into the piano bar, but the courtyard is an ideal spot to soak up the local flavor. Outdoor heaters make it cozy during colder weather. Monday-Thursday from 11 am, Friday-Sunday from 10 am. 718 St. Peter St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-525-4823. http://www.patobriens.com.

R Bar 1431 Royal St., Faubourg Marigny Talk about multitasking—on Monday at the R Bar, you can get a haircut and a shot for US$10. This funky hangout attracts an offbeat mix of New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 artists, wannabe artists, inebriated intellectuals, roller derby ladies and Phone: 504-948-7499 musicians who stop by after their sets—a kind of dysfunctional Cheers. http://www.royalstreetinn.com There's a great alternative-rock jukebox, a large selection of imported beers, friendly bartenders and a billiard table. 1431 Royal St., Faubourg Marigny, New Orleans. Phone 504-948-7499. http://www.royalstreetinn.com.

The Bulldog 3236 Magazine St., Uptown Regularly voted as having one of the best beer selections in town, The New Orleans, Louisiana 70115 Bulldog is a local haunt in the charming Uptown neighborhood. In addition to offering 50 beers on tap and 100 bottled varieties, the pub Phone: 504-891-1516 features a better-than-average menu of bar food. The dog-friendly patio http://bulldog.draftfreak.com fills up during warm-weather days and nights. Daily from 11 am. 3236 Magazine St., Uptown, New Orleans. Phone 504-891-1516. http://bulldog.draftfreak.com.

The Cat's Meow 701 Bourbon St., French Quarter This is a top-notch karaoke bar in the French Quarter. Karaoke is free, New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 and there are entertaining emcees and VJ/DJs. Wide selection of music to choose from. A live web feed means your friends back home can Phone: 504-523-2788 watch you perform. Monday-Thursday from 4 pm, Friday-Sunday from 2 http://www.catskaraoke.com pm. 701 Bourbon St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-523- 2788. http://www.catskaraoke.com.

Mulate's 201 Julia St. New Orleans isn't where you usually find a Cajun dance hall, except for this one. Cajun bands and Cajun dancing are what attract people to this New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 place that got its start in Breaux Bridge, near Lafayette. There's also a Phone: 504-522-1492 basic menu of fried seafood and local specialties. Sunday-Thursday 11 http://www.mulates.com am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-11 pm. 201 Julia St., New Orleans. Phone 504-522-1492. Toll-free 800-854-9149. http://www.mulates.com.

Oz 800 Bourbon St. One of the premier gay dance spots in the French Quarter. Located at the far end of the Bourbon Street hoopla on the corner of St. Ann Street, New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 it's often packed on weekends with a crowd that spills out onto the street Phone: 504-593-9491 (thus mingling with the crowd at another noted gay hot spot on the http://www.ozneworleans.com opposite corner, the Bourbon Pub and Parade). Monday-Wednesday from 4 pm, Thursday from 1 pm, Friday-Sunday 24 hours. Cover charge after 10 pm. 800 Bourbon St., New Orleans. Phone 504-593-9491. http://www.ozneworleans.com.

The Beach on Bourbon 227 Bourbon St., French Quarter A favorite spot to dance the night away, there are multiple bars, an air- conditioned courtyard and a huge dance floor. Rarely a cover charge. New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 VIP seating on a balcony features bottle service. Daily from noon. 227 Phone: 504-231-8519 Bourbon St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-231-8519. http://www.beachonbourbon.com http://www.beachonbourbon.com.

Circle Bar 1032 St. Charles Ave., Lee Circle This place gets its name from its location, Lee Circle. Live music most New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 nights of the week ranges from rock to roots, and when the band takes a break, a jukebox featuring almost every musical genre plays. Daily Phone: 504-588-2616 from 4 pm. 1032 St. Charles Ave., Lee Circle, New Orleans. Phone 504- http://circlebarneworleans.com 588-2616. http://circlebarneworleans.com.

House of Blues 225 Decatur St. Part of the national chain, features heavyweight international acts as well as local music. The club is huge (with the New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 Music Hall, an outdoor courtyard and bar, a restaurant, a gift shop, a Phone: 504-310-4999 club area and the Foundation Room, a members-only area), and the http://www.houseofblues.com/venues/clubvenues/neworleans music ranges from jazz to rock. Examples of southern folk art cover the walls. Crossroads at HOB features a lunch and dinner menu designed by Aaron Sanchez. Daily 11:30 am-10 pm. 225 Decatur St., New Orleans. Phone 504-310-4999. http://www.houseofblues.com/venues/clubvenues/neworleans.

Igor's Checkpoint Charlie 501 Esplanade Ave., French Quarter If there are two things that characterize this dive bar, they're loud music and the on-site laundry room. Rock and blues bands usually kick into New Orleans, Louisiana action around 7 pm and can play into the wee hours. There are a couple Phone: 504-281-4847 of games tables, a jukebox and plenty of seating. No cover charges, cheap drinks and a friendly crowd have made this corner club a favorite for decades. Daily 24 hours. 501 Esplanade Ave., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-281-4847.

Le Bon Temps Roule 4801 Magazine St., Uptown A true locals spot, the club's name (pronounced leh bawn tom roo-lay) New Orleans, Louisiana translates to "the good times roll," and that's just what they do there. Great local bands are featured, and there is usually no cover. Bands Phone: 504-897-3448 play in the back room, and billiard tables and a jukebox are in front. Get https://lbtrnola.com there early if you want a seat. Free oysters on Friday. 4801 Magazine St., Uptown, New Orleans. Phone 504-897-3448. https://lbtrnola.com.

Maple Leaf Bar 8316 Oak St., Uptown Originally a chess and music club, now it's one of the best places to New Orleans, Louisiana 70118 catch local performers. The Maple Leaf features , blues, zydeco and bands. Long-running gigs include a late-night Phone: 504-866-9359 show most Tuesdays from Rebirth . It's in a small space and http://mapleleafbar.com can get crowded, but the typically high-energy music keeps almost everybody dancing until late. The Everette C. Maddox Memorial Prose & Poetry Reading happens in the courtyard Sunday at 3 pm (the longest running poetry reading in North America). Daily 3 pm-4 am; music usually starts around 10 pm. 8316 Oak St., Uptown, New Orleans. Phone 504-866-9359. http://mapleleafbar.com.

One Eyed Jacks 615 Toulouse St., French Quarter This French Quarter favorite features original singer-songwriters, loud rock and metal along with the occasional burlesque show and other New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 entertainment. There's a crowded bar up front with cheap beer and Phone: 504-569-8361 typical bar drinks, along with a theater-style club in the back that hosts http://www.oneeyedjacks.net live music and other events a few nights a week. The Fast Times 80s Dance Party every Thursday is jam-packed with people of many ages and features live go-go dancers. A good place to see celebrities when they're in town, too. Daily from 7 pm. 615 Toulouse St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-569-8361. http://www.oneeyedjacks.net.

Palm Court Jazz Cafe 1204 Decatur St., French Quarter Enjoy the legends of traditional New Orleans jazz in a supper-club environment. The mahogany bar, mosaic-tiled floors and French New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 Quarter location evoke a distinctive, old New Orleans charm. This is one Phone: 504-525-0200 venue where children are welcome. The moderately priced menu http://www.palmcourtcafe.com features Creole and Continental dishes. Wednesday-Sunday 7-11 pm. 1204 Decatur St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-525-0200. http://www.palmcourtcafe.com.

Preservation Hall 726 St. Peter St. Located in the heart of the French Quarter, Preservation Hall has been New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 providing some of the best traditional New Orleans jazz since 1961. The "Hall" is actually a very tiny space, so if you want to get in and have a Phone: 504-522-2841 place to sit, you'd better get there early. Preservation Hall shows are http://www.preservationhall.com open to all ages. 726 St. Peter St., New Orleans. Phone 504-522-2841. http://www.preservationhall.com.

Rock 'n' Bowl 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., Mid-City Widely known as a great value place for a date in New Orleans (and it's New Orleans, Louisiana 70118 even cheaper if you eat at Ye Olde College Inn before you hit the dance floor—each entree purchased equals a US$5 discount to that night's Phone: 504-861-1700 show). It's also the hippest, most happening bowling alley you'll ever http://www.rockandbowl.com see. Music in the styles of zydeco, R&B, jazz and blues rises over the clamor of rolling balls and falling pins. The old city murals by local artist Tony Green were transported in pieces from their old location. Don't miss Zydeco Night on Thursday. Great food and beer on tap. Full bar. Monday-Friday from 4 pm, Saturday from 11:30 am. 3000 S. Carrollton Ave., Mid-City, New Orleans. Phone 504-861-1700. http://www.rockandbowl.com.

Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro 626 Frenchmen St., Faubourg Marigny The place to go for contemporary jazz, this cozy little bar and restaurant New Orleans, Louisiana 70119 is home base for various members of the Marsalis and Neville families, including R&B vocalist Charmaine Neville on her regular Monday night Phone: 504-949-0696 gig. Dining from 5 pm. Show times at 8 and 10 pm. Reservations http://www.snugjazz.com recommended for big shows or during holidays. Cover charge begins at US$15 and varies according to the performer. 626 Frenchmen St., Faubourg Marigny, New Orleans. Phone 504-949-0696. http://www.snugjazz.com.

Spotted Cat 623 Frenchmen St., Faubourg Marigny There's never a cover at this tiny little club in the Marigny, but it still delivers some of the best local music in town, from brassy jazz combos New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 to acoustic strummers. Don't miss Meschiya Lake and the Little Big Phone: 504-943-3887 Horns (Tuesday at 6 pm) and the Washboard Chaz Blues Trio (Friday at http://www.spottedcatmusicclub.com 6 pm). A great place to escape the Frenchmen Street crowds. Daily 2 pm-2 am. No credit cards. 623 Frenchmen St., Faubourg Marigny, New Orleans. Phone 504-943-3887. http://www.spottedcatmusicclub.com.

The Howlin' Wolf 907 South Peters St., Warehouse District Hosting both local and national acts all across the spectrum of genres, New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 this Warehouse District club has been one of the city's most popular music venues for more than 20 years. Popular artists who have graced Phone: 504-529-5844 the stage include Harry Connick Jr., Allison Krauss, Jimmy Page and http://www.thehowlinwolf.com Jimmy Buffett. The club also manages the infectious . Comedy shows on Tuesday and Thursday, as well as Sunday night shows by the Hot 8 Brass Band. 907 South Peters St., Warehouse District, New Orleans. Phone 504-529-5844. http://www.thehowlinwolf.com.

Tipitina's 501 Napoleon Ave., Uptown A hotbed of New Orleans' live music, the original "Tip's" is Uptown, nestled beneath oak trees along the Mississippi River. Tip's helped New Orleans, Louisiana 70115 launch the careers of such artists as the Neville Brothers, Harry Connick Phone: 504-895-8477 Jr., Dr. John and . Filling out the performance schedule http://www.tipitinas.com are major rock 'n' roll acts, emerging local groups of all genres and regional Cajun, zydeco, blues and R&B performers. The early Sunday show is a traditional fais do-do (Cajun dance event). Full bar. Box office Monday-Friday 10 am-4:30 pm. 501 Napoleon Ave., Uptown, New Orleans. Phone 504-895-8477. http://www.tipitinas.com.

Performing Arts

Performing arts takes on a different meaning in New Orleans, a city where street performers deliver top-notch music, and drama waits around every corner. But if you're looking for a dose of culture, there are a few theatrical venues that offer traditional fare. Dance

New Orleans Ballet Association 935 Gravier Street, Suite 800 Presenting renowned dance performers from around the globe, such as the Houston Ballet, Alvin Ailey Dance Theater, Legends of Tap and New Orleans, Louisiana 70112 France's Lyon Opera Ballet. The Association has been recognized for its Phone: 504-522-0996, community outreach—every year it offers more than 2,500 free dance http://www.nobadance.com classes throughout the city. Performances at the Theater for the Performing Arts or at Freda Lupin Memorial Hall, New Orleans Center for Creative Arts. Box office Monday-Friday 9 am-4:30 pm. 935 Gravier Street, Suite 800, New Orleans. Phone 504-522-0996, ext. 0 for tickets. http://www.nobadance.com.

Prytania Theatre 5339 Prytania St. Built in 1914, this is the oldest operating movie theater in New Orleans and the only single-screen theater in Louisiana. And with afternoon New Orleans, Louisiana 70115 showings at just US$6, it's also a nice way to escape the humidity. Phone: 504-891-2787 Classic movies, such as Mary Poppins and To Kill a Mockingbird, are http://www.theprytania.com shown at 10 am Wednesday and Sunday. Other movies are shown typically daily at regular intervals. Midnight shows on Friday and Saturday. 5339 Prytania St., New Orleans. Phone 504-891-2787. http://www.theprytania.com.

Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra 2533 Columbus St., Suite 202 This musician-owned-and-run organization offers a respectable season New Orleans, Louisiana 70112 of traditional concerts livened up with the occasional special guest artist or world-music program. Performances are at various venues around Phone: 504-523-6530 town, including First Baptist New Orleans and Mahalia Jackson Theater https://www.lpomusic.com for the Performing Arts. Season runs September-May. 2533 Columbus St., Suite 202, New Orleans. Phone 504-523-6530. https://www.lpomusic.com.

New Orleans Civic Symphony 2000 Lakeshore Drive Founded in the 1940s, the New Orleans Civic Symphony is home to New Orleans, Louisiana 70148 amateur musicians who hold free concerts September-June. Rehearsals and performances are often held in the Performing Arts Center at the Phone: 504-233-8775 University of New Orleans, although performances may move to other http://www.neworleanscivicsymphony.org venues, including Trinity Episcopal Church. 2000 Lakeshore Drive (UNO Campus), New Orleans. Phone 504-233-8775. http://www.neworleanscivicsymphony.org.

New Orleans Opera Association 616 Girod St., Suite 1940 New Orleans has staged operas since 1796, and the tradition continues New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 with the 21st-century edition of the New Orleans Opera Association (NOOA). NOOA's season features four operas staged between October Phone: 504-529-3000 and April, with offerings from adventurous to classic, including the likes http://www.neworleansopera.org of Marschner's The Vampire and Puccini's La Boheme. 616 Girod St., Suite 1940, New Orleans. Phone 504-529-3000. http://www.neworleansopera.org.

Southern Repertory Theatre 2541 Bayou Road The Southern Repertory Theatre stages its productions in spaces New Orleans, Louisiana around town, including CAC. It focuses on plays that portray the southern mystique. Performances take place at various venues Phone: 504-522-6545 throughout the city. Box office Tuesday-Friday noon-5 pm. 2541 Bayou http://www.southernrep.com Road, New Orleans. Phone 504-522-6545. http://www.southernrep.com.

Cafe Istanbul 2372 St. Claude Ave., Faubourg Marigny Located in the New Orleans Healing Center, Cafe Istanbul is a 3,800-sq- ft/353-sq-m performance hall designed with performance art in mind, New Orleans, Louisiana 70117 including theater, live music, poetry, dance, comedy, film and visual arts. Phone: 504-975-0286 Daily 6 pm-2 am. 2372 St. Claude Ave., Faubourg Marigny, New http://www.cafeistanbulnola.com Orleans. Phone 504-975-0286. http://www.cafeistanbulnola.com.

Civic Theatre 510 O'Keefe Ave. Built in 1906, the Civic Theatre is the oldest in New Orleans. The space New Orleans, Louisiana 70113 hosted a playbill of luminaries in pre-Broadway road productions, including Mary Martin, Tyrone Power, Helen Hayes and Charles Boyer. Phone: 504-272-0865 Later turned into a movie house and disco, the Civic is a gorgeous http://www.civicnola.com space, an intimate 1,150-capacity venue that has partnered with Bowery Presents to host touring acts such as The Robert Cray Band and A John Waters Christmas. Also a venue for private events, the Civic has partnered with mixologist Neal Bodenheimer, of Cure, to offer a craft cocktail menu drawn from American-made small-batch spirits and organic ingredients. 510 O'Keefe Ave. (Central Business District), New Orleans. Phone 504-272-0865. http://www.civicnola.com.

Contemporary Arts Center 900 Camp St. Located in the Warehouse Arts District, the Contemporary Arts Center is New Orleans, Louisiana 70130-3908 a multidisciplinary center that showcases experimental dance, music, theater and visual-art displays. Wednesday-Monday 11 am-5 pm. 900 Phone: 504-272-0865 Camp St. (one block from Lee Circle, between Andrew Higgins Drive http://www.cacno.org and St. Joseph Street), New Orleans. Phone 504-272-0865. http://www.cacno.org.

Joy Theater 1200 Canal St. This stunning restored jewel box space was a "modern" movie house in 1947. The 900-seat venue now hosts live music, theater, film, and New Orleans, Louisiana 70112 private parties and events in an intimate space that delivers terrific Phone: 504-528-9569 sightlines from all vantage points, from orchestra to mezzanine and http://www.thejoytheater.com balcony. Typical shows in the burgeoning historic theater district might be a touring version of Tony & Tina's Wedding, live stand-up comedy and national music acts. 1200 Canal St. (Central Business District), New Orleans. Phone 504-528-9569. http://www.thejoytheater.com.

Le Petit Theatre Du Vieux Carre 616 St. Peter St. When Dickie Brennan & Co. purchased half of the existing space for what is now Tableau restaurant, the circa-1916 theater was able to New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 renovate and reopen for business. Often described as the nation's Phone: 504-522-2081 oldest community theater still in operation, the 365-seat Le Petit http://www.lepetittheatre.com produces its own shows using local talent in a gorgeous setting. 616 St. Peter St. (French Quarter), New Orleans. Phone 504-522-2081. http://www.lepetittheatre.com.

Mahalia Jackson Theater 1419 Basin St. A 2,234-seat theater, Mahalia Jackson features a wide range of New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 performances, including musical acts, comedians and the Broadway in New Orleans series. It's also home to the opera, symphony and ballet. Phone: 504-525-1052 1419 Basin St., New Orleans. Phone 504-525-1052 box office 504-287- http://www.mahaliajacksontheater.com 0350. http://www.mahaliajacksontheater.com.

Saenger Theatre 1111 Canal St. The renovated Saenger offers a wide variety of music and theater New Orleans, Louisiana 70112 offerings. Besides a touring season of Broadway productions, national names such as Jerry Seinfeld and Diana Ross perform. 1111 Canal St., Phone: 504-525-1052, New Orleans. Phone 504-525-1052, or 504-287-0351 for the box office. http://www.saengernola.com http://www.saengernola.com.

Spectator Sports

New Orleans is home to the Saints NFL football team—and boy, are locals proud of it. The city has also hosted the annual Sugar Bowl college football game since 1935. In short, New Orleans is a city that loves its teams—usually whether they're winning or not.

College basketball fans are especially rabid, with most of the locals either die-hard Louisiana State University or Tulane fans who follow their teams religiously.

Basketball

New Orleans Pelicans 1501 Dave Dixon Drive The Pelicans play at the . The regular season New Orleans, Louisiana 70113 runs October-April. 1501 Dave Dixon Drive, New Orleans. Phone 504- 587-3663. https://www.nba.com/pelicans. Phone: 504-587-3663 https://www.nba.com/pelicans

New Orleans Saints 1500 Sugar Bowl Drive New Orleans' sporting life revolves around its beloved Saints, which draw fans from all over the Gulf Coast to games in the Mercedes-Benz New Orleans, Louisiana 70112 Superdome. The Saints' regular season begins in early September and Phone: 504-587-3663 continues through early January. 1500 Sugar Bowl Drive, New Orleans. http://www.neworleanssaints.com Phone 504-587-3663. http://www.neworleanssaints.com.

Fair Grounds Race Course and Slots 1751 Gentilly Blvd., Mid-City Home to the nation's third-oldest track, the Fair Grounds New Orleans, Louisiana 70119 Race Course opened as the Union Race Course in 1852. This historic grandstand and clubhouse features from Thanksgiving Phone: 504-944-5515 weekend through March. It's also the site of the annual New Orleans http://www.fairgroundsracecourse.com Jazz and Heritage Festival. 1751 Gentilly Blvd., Mid-City, New Orleans. Phone 504-944-5515. http://www.fairgroundsracecourse.com.

Shopping

New Orleans is known for its antiques shops, especially on Royal (in the French Quarter) and Magazine streets. They're filled with art, jewelry, stamps, coins, china, furniture and crystal. In addition, there are many excellent used-book stores and some shops in the French Quarter that sell voodoo paraphernalia.

There's no sales tax on any original art sold in the Arts District.

Shopping Hours: Stores sometimes take time off for Saints games. It's best to check with stores for specific hours.

Antique Stores M.S. Rau Antiques 630 Royal St., French Quarter A French Quarter landmark for more than a century, M.S. Rau sells an impressive array of items including antique furnishings, art, jewelry, New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 music boxes, walking sticks and vintage slot machines, all housed in a http://www.rauantiques.com jaw-dropping space that could easily double as a museum. It often hosts parties and special events. Monday-Saturday 9 am-5:15 pm. 630 Royal St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Toll-free 888-711-8084. http://www.rauantiques.com.

New Orleans Silversmiths 600 Chartres St., French Quarter This shop has a fascinating and varied selection of old and new silver and gold pieces. Estate jewelry, antique corkscrews and serving pieces New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 are also among the offerings. Monday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday Phone: 504-522-8333 11 am-4 pm. 600 Chartres St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone http://www.neworleanssilversmiths.com 504-522-8333. Toll-free 800-219-8333. http://www.neworleanssilversmiths.com.

Waldhorn & Adler 343 Royal St., French Quarter The oldest antiques store in the city, dating from 1881. It specializes in New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 English and French furniture, antique and estate jewelry, fine watches, porcelain and silver. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm. 343 Royal St., Phone: 504-581-6379 French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-581-6379. http://www.waldhornadlers.com http://www.waldhornadlers.com.

Blue Cypress Books 8126 Oak St. Take the streetcar down to and visit this quaint bookstore filled with hidden treasures. One can easily get lost in the wonderland New Orleans, Louisiana 70118 that is the collection of previously owned and brand-new literature. Have Phone: 504-352-0096 little ones? Blue Cypress offers the largest selection of unique and https://bluecypressbooks.com relevant children's books in the area. There is truly something for every bibliophile inside of this Carrollton favorite. Monday-Wednesday 10 am- 5:30 pm, Thursday and Friday 10 am-8 pm, Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday 10 am-4 pm. 8126 Oak St., New Orleans. Phone 504-352-0096. https://bluecypressbooks.com.

Faulkner House Books 624 Pirate's Alley, French Quarter In the house where William Faulkner once lived and wrote his first novel, this store is a full-service (new and used) bookstore that specializes in New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 rare books about the South, with an emphasis on New Orleans and Phone: 504-524-2940 Louisiana-related titles. Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. 624 Pirate's Alley, French http://www.faulknerhousebooks.com Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-524-2940. http://www.faulknerhousebooks.com.

Garden District Book Shop 2727 Prytania St., Uptown After checking out the mansions in the area, you can browse through New Orleans, Louisiana 70130-5968 books on New Orleans history, Mardi Gras and other local topics. This shop is the place to go for Anne Rice first editions, as well as a variety of Phone: 504-895-2266 autographed books by other authors. Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, http://www.gardendistrictbookshop.com Sunday 10 am-5 pm. 2727 Prytania St., Uptown (at Washington Avenue in The Rink mini-mall), New Orleans. Phone 504-895-2266. http://www.gardendistrictbookshop.com.

There are usually art openings 6-8 pm every first Saturday of the month at the galleries in the Warehouse Arts District. The St. Claude Arts District sponsors an art crawl on the second Saturday of each month; most galleries in the area schedule openings that night. It's a good idea to call a gallery first before you visit. Some hours can be sporadic. A Gallery for Fine Photography 241 Chartres St., French Quarter Rare 19th- and 20th-century photographs and books, as well as some New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 contemporary works. Thursday-Monday 10:30 am-5:30 pm, Tuesday and Wednesday by appointment. 241 Chartres St., French Quarter, Phone: 504-568-1313 New Orleans. Phone 504-568-1313. http://www.agallery.com. http://www.agallery.com Arthur Roger Gallery 432 Julia St., Warehouse District This gallery represents one of the finest cross sections of local, southern New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 and nationally established artists. Monday by appointment, Tuesday- Saturday 10 am-5 pm. 432 Julia St., Warehouse District, New Orleans. Phone: 504-522-1999 Phone 504-522-1999. http://www.arthurrogergallery.com. http://www.arthurrogergallery.com

Barrister's Gallery 2331 St. Claude Ave., Marigny Barrister's has a long history as a unique art gallery, with a focus on New Orleans, Louisiana 70117 ethnographic and outsider art. Its monthly rotating exhibitions have been described as eclectic, unorthodox and freaky. Tuesday-Saturday 11 am- Phone: 504-710-4506 5 pm. 2331 St. Claude Ave., Marigny, New Orleans. Phone 504-710- http://www.barristersgallery.com 4506. http://www.barristersgallery.com.

Callan Contemporary 518 Julia St., Warehouse Arts District This gallery represents contemporary art by emerging and midcareer American and international artists with an emphasis on abstract and New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 figurative paintings and sculpture. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm and Phone: 504-525-0518 by appointment. 518 Julia St., Warehouse Arts District, New Orleans. http://www.callancontemporary.com Phone 504-525-0518. http://www.callancontemporary.com.

Carol Robinson Gallery 840 Napoleon Ave. Contemporary southern art, as well as works by nationally prominent New Orleans, Louisiana 70115 artists. Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 10 am-5 pm, Saturday 10 am- 3:45 pm. 840 Napoleon Ave. (at Magazine Street), New Orleans. Phone Phone: 504-895-6130 504-895-6130. https://carolrobinsongallery.net. https://carolrobinsongallery.net

Craig Tracy's Fine-Art Bodypainting Gallery 827 Royal St., French Quarter A unique and intriguing art gallery, Craig Tracy's images are painted on New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 the body, literally. Each image is a photo of a painting done using all or part of his model's body as well as backdrop. Inventive and eye- Phone: 504-592-9886 catching, you can commission a painting if you want to be the model. http://www.craigtracy.com Daily 10 am-6 pm. 827 Royal St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-592-9886. http://www.craigtracy.com.

LeMieux Galleries 332 Julia St., Warehouse District This gallery's goal is to offer new enthusiasts and seasoned collectors affordable and collectible art by Louisiana and Gulf Coast artists. New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm. 332 Julia St., Warehouse District, New Phone: 504-522-5988 Orleans. Phone 504-522-5988. http://www.lemieuxgalleries.com. http://www.lemieuxgalleries.com

New Orleans Glassworks & Printmaking Studio 727 Magazine St., Warehouse District A glass-art gallery that also does demonstrations and teaches New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 workshops for both adults and children in the areas of glassworks (including glass-blowing, torching and sculpture), metalworking Phone: 504-529-7279 (including welding, silver-smithing and copper enameled jewelry), http://www.neworleansglassworks.com printmaking and book arts. Monday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm. 727 Magazine St., Warehouse District, New Orleans. Phone 504-529-7279. http://www.neworleansglassworks.com.

Rodrigue Studio 730 Royal St., French Quarter The official showcase for all those wildly popular blue-dog paintings that New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 have put Louisiana on the pop-art map. The studio carries paintings, prints and books on Rodrigue, the internationally known artist from New Phone: 504-581-4244 Iberia, Louisiana. Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Sunday noon-5 pm. http://www.georgerodrigue.com 730 Royal St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-581-4244. http://www.georgerodrigue.com.

Crescent City Farmers Market 750 Carondelet St. Local growers sell herbs, fruits, veggies, honey, seafood, farmyard eggs, baked goods and houseplants at this open-air market. The New Orleans, Louisiana 70119 Saturday market takes place 8 am-noon at 700 Magazine St., in the Phone: 504-861-4488; Warehouse District. The Tuesday market is 9 am-1 pm at 200 http://www.crescentcityfarmersmarket.org Broadway, Uptown. The Thursday market is 3-7 pm. 750 Carondelet St. (at Julia Street), New Orleans. Phone 504-861-4488; http://www.crescentcityfarmersmarket.org.

French Market 1008 N. Peters St., French Quarter The French Market sells a wide range of local culinary gifts and New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 produce, as well as booth after booth of flea-market-style crafts and New Orleans-themed gifts. America's oldest public market—it has been Phone: 504-522-2621 on the same spot since 1791—is a funky and fun melange of stores, http://www.frenchmarket.org restaurants, and the open-air farmers and flea markets. Daily 10 am-6 pm. 1008 N. Peters St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-522- 2621. http://www.frenchmarket.org.

Palace Market on Frenchmen 619 Frenchmen St. Strung with lights that invite Frenchmen Street revelers to dip in and New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 browse, this night market thrums with local creativity and off-beat goods. Artists vary from week to week; most of the work is affordable, and the Phone: 504-941-1149 chance to connect with home-grown talent is a kick. Thursday-Saturday https://www.palacemarketnola.com 7 pm-1 am, Sunday-Wednesday 6 pm-midnight. 619 Frenchmen St. (Marigny), New Orleans. Phone 504-941-1149. https://www.palacemarketnola.com.

The Artists' Market and Bead Shop 1228 Decatur St. Located across from the historic French Market, the "block-wide" market has two street entrances and a variety of reasonably priced works from New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 more than 75 local and regional artists in between. Unique pottery, Phone: 504-561-0046 photography, jewelry and paintings reflect the eclectic culture of the http://www.artistsmarketnola.com region and make for treasured souvenirs. Home to the largest bead shop in the French Quarter. Monday-Friday 10 am-5 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-6 pm. 1228 Decatur St. (there is another entrance at 1228 Decatur St.), New Orleans. Phone 504-561-0046. http://www.artistsmarketnola.com.

Magazine Street New Orleans, Louisiana This grand street offers 6 mi/10 km of specialty shops. A few examples include Orient Expressed, specializing in Asian antiques and hand- http://www.magazinestreet.com smocked children's clothing; Julie Neill Design, which features one-of-a- kind light fixtures, picture frames and other decorative items; and Fleurty Girl for New Orleans-inspired clothing and gifts. Pick up a copy of the Magazine Street Shoppers Guide to help you plan your day (or days) of shopping and dining adventures. Stores along Magazine Street are generally open 9 am-6 pm. Some stores are closed on Sunday or Monday (or both). http://www.magazinestreet.com.

Riverwalk Marketplace 500 Port of New Orleans Place, Suite A view of the Mississippi River and a treasure trove of national and local 101 stores offering regional specialty items from food to decorative objects. The Riverwalk Marketplace is a short walk from the French Quarter and New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 served by the and the Riverfront streetcar. Monday- Phone: 504-522-1555 Saturday 10 am-9 pm, Sunday 10 am-7 pm. 500 Port of New Orleans https://www.riverwalkneworleans.com Place, Suite 101, New Orleans. Phone 504-522-1555. https://www.riverwalkneworleans.com.

Royal Street Royal Street, French Quarter A mere block away from the raucous Bourbon Street, this classy area New Orleans, Louisiana offers a taste of the local arts scene. Lots of antiques, fine jewelry and chic boutiques are the selection there. Most stores daily 9 am-6 pm. https://www.neworleans.com/plan/streets/royal- Royal Street, French Quarter, New Orleans. street https://www.neworleans.com/plan/streets/royal-street.

The Shops at Canal Place 333 Canal St. This upscale mall includes Saks Fifth Avenue, Michael Kors, Tiffany, Mignon Faget, Banana Republic, Brooks Brothers and plenty of other New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 stores that can quickly drain your wallet. Monday-Friday 10 am-7 pm, Phone: 504-522-9200 Saturday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday noon-7 pm. 333 Canal St., New Orleans. Phone 504-522-9200. https://www.canalplacestyle.com. https://www.canalplacestyle.com

The Shops at JAX Brewery 600 Decatur St. JAX Brewery offers shops and restaurants in an old brewery near New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 Jackson Square. Daily 10 am-7 pm. 600 Decatur St., New Orleans. Phone 504-566-7245. https://www.thejaxbrewery.com. Phone: 504-566-7245 https://www.thejaxbrewery.com

Aidan Gill 2026 Magazine St., Uptown The secret's out—men like bath products as much as women. And New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 these stores carry a delightful array of bath and shaving gels, neckties, cuff links and accessories. There's an old-fashioned shaving parlor, Phone: 504-587-9090 complete with a working antique towel warmer, in the back. There's a http://www.aidangillformen.com second location in the Warehouse District at 550 Fulton St. (phone 504- 566-4903). Monday-Wednesday and Friday 10 am-6 pm, Saturday 9 am-6 pm, Sunday noon-6 pm. 2026 Magazine St., Uptown, New Orleans. Phone 504-587-9090. http://www.aidangillformen.com.

Cafe du Monde Shop 800 Decatur St., French Quarter This shop, across the street from the famous Cafe du Monde, sells the coffee that made it a landmark, plus the beignet mix that tempts tourists New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 every time—but the real deal is tough to replicate at home. The store Phone: 504-525-4544 will ship its products anywhere in the country. Daily 24 hours. 800 https://shop.cafedumonde.com Decatur St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-525-4544. https://shop.cafedumonde.com.

Dirty Coast 5631 Magazine St., Garden District This store is a hit with locals who get all the "in" jokes, but tourists will be New Orleans, Louisiana 70115 able to find stuff to remind them of their visit. T-shirts, posters, coasters and much more. Daily 10 am-6 pm. 5631 Magazine St., Garden District, Phone: 504-324-3745 New Orleans. Phone 504-324-3745. http://www.dirtycoast.com. http://www.dirtycoast.com

Fleur d'Orleans 3701-A Magazine St. Uniquely designed gifts featuring New Orleans' city symbol, the fleur-de- lis. There's an assortment of gifts and accessories, including earrings, New Orleans, Louisiana 70115 bracelets, ornaments, silver jewelry, hand-blown crystal glasses, hand- Phone: 504-899-5585 painted silk and handmade paper. Monday, Wednesday, Friday and http://www.fleurdorleans.com Saturday 11 am-5 pm; Tuesday and Thursday 11 am-7 pm. 3701-A Magazine St., New Orleans. Phone 504-899-5585. http://www.fleurdorleans.com.

Fleurty Girl 3137 Magazine St., Garden District Known for its funky T-shirts, this store began with just four basic T-shirt designs and now operates four stores across the city. It showcases New Orleans, Louisiana 70115 locally themed tees, crafts and jewelry. There's a second location at 632 Phone: 504-301-2557 St. Peter St. in the French Quarter (phone 504-304-5529). Monday- http://www.fleurtygirl.net Thursday 11 am-6 pm, Friday and Saturday 10 am-7 pm, Sunday 11 am-5 pm. 3137 Magazine St., Garden District, New Orleans. Phone 504-301-2557. http://www.fleurtygirl.net.

Island of Salvation Botanica 2372 St. Claude Ave., Suite 100, This authentic voodoo shop is run by Sallie Ann Glassman, one of a few Faubourg Marigny Americans ordained as a voodoo priestess following the traditional Haitian initiation. Author of Vodou Visions, Glassman is a renowned New Orleans, Louisiana 70117 educator who shares her interests and wealth of knowledge at her store Phone: 504-948-9961 located in the New Orleans Healing Center. The shop specializes in http://islandofsalvationbotanica.com voodoo religious supply and medicinal herbs, as well as Haitian and local artwork. Monday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday 11 am-6 pm. 2372 St. Claude Ave., Suite 100, Faubourg Marigny, New Orleans. Phone 504-948-9961. http://islandofsalvationbotanica.com.

Louisiana Music Factory 421 Frenchmen St. This is the best place to buy New Orleans music, as well as zydeco, Cajun, jazz, blues and just about anything else with musical roots in the New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 Crescent City. The staff at this indie store is knowledgeable and eager Phone: 504-586-1094 to help. Ask about the regular free performances that feature local http://louisianamusicfactory.com artists. Daily 10 am-7 pm. 421 Frenchmen St., New Orleans. Phone 504-586-1094. http://louisianamusicfactory.com.

Maskarade 630 St. Ann St., French Quarter New Orleans is a fitting home for a mask shop. This one is just a few New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 blocks from Jackson Square and features an array of handcrafted masks by local and national artists. Daily 10 am-5 pm. 630 St. Ann St., Phone: 504-568-1018 French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-568-1018. http://www.themaskstore.com http://www.themaskstore.com.

Retro Active 8123 Oak St., Uptown Step inside and lose yourself among the multitude of purses, hats, vintage costume jewelry and wonderful bric-a-brac. A great place to pick New Orleans, Louisiana 70118 up a pair of vintage frames and clothes, too. Monday-Saturday 11 am-6 Phone: 504-864-8164 pm. 8123 Oak St., Uptown, New Orleans. Phone 504-864-8164. http://www.retroactivevintage.com http://www.retroactivevintage.com.

Trashy Diva 2048 Magazine St. This funky boutique has multiple locations on Magazine Street and Chartres Street in the French Quarter. It features 1940s and '50s New Orleans, Louisiana silhouettes cut from modern fabrics, retro shoes and some sexy vintage- Phone: 504-299-8777 style lingerie complete with corsets and silk stockings. There's a second http://www.trashydiva.com location at 537 Royal St. in the French Quarter (phone 504-522-4233). Monday-Friday noon-6 pm, Saturday 11 am-6 pm, Sunday 1-5 pm. 2048 Magazine St., New Orleans. Phone 504-299-8777. http://www.trashydiva.com.

Vintage 329 329 Royal St., French Quarter Expanding the offerings of the previous autograph-based store Vintage New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 429, this from Joey Sutton includes a wide range of memorabilia including entertainment, sports, maps, rare books and antique Phone: 504-525-2262 weaponry. The History Channel's Sean Rich's private collection of model http://www.vintage329.com ships, coins, and antique armor and arms is sold there as well. Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. 329 Royal St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504- 525-2262. http://www.vintage329.com.

Itinerary

Day Trips

To Lafourche Parish. Just an hour from New Orleans or Baton Rouge, Lafourche Parish offers food, history, fishing and fun. Much of the activity is centered in Thibodaux. Enjoy a day of fishing, golf, hiking, shopping or take a swamp tour to experience the bayous for yourself.

In Thibodaux, tour the E.D. White House or the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center. The town also offers a walking tour. Dine at one of the many local Cajun restaurants and then spend the night at The Dansereau House, a beautifully restored mansion built in 1847.

Drive to nearby Lockport to see authentic boat building in action at the Center for Traditional Louisiana Boat Building. The Bayou Lafourche Folklife and Heritage Museum and provides a glimpse into traditional bayou culture.

To Cajun Country. For a tour of Cajun Country, you may want to put aside more than a day. But there are many Cajun sites of interest within two hours of New Orleans. One of the most alluring is St. Martinville, the setting for Evangeline, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow's epic poem about unrequited love. The famous "Evangeline Oak," beneath which Evangeline is said to have waited for the return of her lover, stands near the banks of Bayou Teche. Plantation houses and other attractions in the area portray the early Cajun lifestyle. If you stay for the night, try your foot at dancing to some or zydeco. El Sido's Zydeco and Blues Club and Blue Moon Saloon and Guesthouse, in Lafayette, both boast frequent performances by some of the hottest zydeco bands in the region. There are also plenty of opportunities for authentic .

To the River Road Plantations. Plenty of plantation homes are within driving distance of New Orleans—it's possible to see several in the same day. Destrehan Plantation is thought to be the oldest intact plantation in the lower Mississippi Valley.

On Highway 492, 4 mi/6 km from Interstate 10, the lovingly restored Houmas House Plantation and Gardens boasts Greek-revival architecture and stunning grounds, as well as three restaurants and 16 lovely cottages filled with art and antiques; an overnight stay is guaranteed to make you feel like a sugar baron.

San Francisco Plantation House, a few miles/kilometers farther up the road in the town of Garyville, is a fabulous example of steamboat Gothic architecture, with lots of brightly painted gingerbread ornamentation.

On Louisiana Highway 18, the 19th-century Oak Alley Plantation typifies gracious southern living. You can even spend the night there in a cottage on the property. A few miles/kilometers from Oak Alley, also in Vacherie, is Laura Plantation, built in 1805. Tours focus on slave life, Creole traditions and the role of women on plantations.

To the Mississippi Gulf Coast. Just an hour away from New Orleans, the twin towns of Biloxi and Gulfport attract visitors with beaches, fishing charters and more than a dozen casinos, including the upmarket Beau Rivage. Considering that the coast was severely battered by Hurricane Katrina, and many structures were washed away, the comeback is dramatic. The beaches aren't anything to write home about, but they're the closest to New Orleans and make a great day trip for visitors looking to get a glimpse of the Gulf Coast. Jet skis, chair and umbrella rentals often available across from major beachfront hotels for a small fee.

There's no shortage of tours of every description in New Orleans. Take a walking tour for a close-up look at the city. The free walking tour (9:30-10:30 am) led by rangers at Jean Lafitte Historical Park covers the riverfront and Mississippi River history. Only 25 tickets are distributed first-come, first-served every day at the visitors center at 419 Decatur St. starting at 9 am. You don't need to tip rangers, but do plan on tipping your other tour guides, usually US$3-$5 per person, depending on the price of the tour.

New Orleans is one of the few cities in the U.S. where cemeteries are a major tourist destination. They are a must-see. To really understand the unique burial system, go with a guided tour. Only visit during the day; staying in a group is best.

Also consider a riverboat cruise. The romance of the Mississippi River has been intertwined with New Orleans history since the first settlers founded the French Quarter. Today the majestic waterway remains as romantic as ever.

Carriage tours are a fun way to become acquainted with the French Quarter. (But don't believe everything you're told: Locals are often appalled at the ridiculous stories that drivers try to pass off as historical fact.) On the stretch of Decatur Street directly in front of Jackson Square stand a number of sturdy, mule-drawn carriages ready to take you on a half-hour tour. Rates are often negotiable depending on the time of day and briskness of business.

Confederacy of Cruisers Culinary Bike Tour 634 Elysian Fields Ave., Marigny New Orleans is a city of neighborhoods, but too often, visitors never New Orleans, Louisiana make it out of the admittedly gorgeous French Quarter. This tour is a game changer, giving you pedal power and in-the-know direction to veer Phone: 504-400-5468 into unchartered culinary territory. Biking prowess isn't necessary—the http://confederacyofcruisers.com route is naturally flat, and the pace is leisurely. Depending on the neighborhood—all untouristy but safe—you might sample fried chicken at Lil' Dizzy's in Treme, barbecue shrimp po'boy at Liuzza's at the Track in Faubourg St. John, and praline bacon at Elizabeth's in the Bywater. You'll learn scads about the history, culture and quirks of New Orleans as you nibble your way around town. This is not a tour for the faint of stomach: It's all about pig, fried foods and seafood, so go hungry and be ready for anything. US$89 per person. 634 Elysian Fields Ave., Marigny, New Orleans. Phone 504-400-5468. http://confederacyofcruisers.com.

Gray Line of New Orleans Toulouse Street, French Quarter This national tour operator offers cocktail tours, swamp tours, rides through historic plantations and the French Quarter, and even the New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 "Hurricane Katrina Tour—America's Worst Catastrophe." Check the Phone: 504-569-1401 website or call ahead for a complete listing of tours. The dinner and jazz http://www.graylineneworleans.com cruise on the Steamboat Natchez is a favorite. Daytime Harbor cruises also available. Toulouse Street, French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-569-1401. Toll-free 800-233-2628. http://www.graylineneworleans.com.

Haunted History Tours 97 Fontainebleau Drive New Orleans' oldest walking tour company offers a variety of tours mostly in the haunted vein. Tours include a Garden District or haunted New Orleans, Louisiana 70125 Garden District tour, French Quarter ghost tour, Voodoo tour, vampire Phone: 504-861-2727 tour and cemetery tours. Cemetery, Voodoo and Ghost tours depart http://www.hauntedhistorytours.com from Rev. Zombie's Voodoo Shop, 723 St. Peter St., French Quarter. Vampire Tours depart from St. Louis Cathedral under the clock facing Jackson Street. Most tours are US$25 adults. 97 Fontainebleau Drive, New Orleans. Phone 504-861-2727. Toll-free 888-644-6787. http://www.hauntedhistorytours.com.

Historic New Orleans Tour New Orleans, Louisiana 70179 Offering an authentic look at the on a variety of 504-947-2120 tours including cemetery/voodoo, Garden District, city/hurricane rebirth, Phone: French Quarter, jazz, swamp and plantation. At the end of the day, http://www.tourneworleans.com enjoy the "Scandalous Cocktail Tour" as you walk and drink your way through the libational history of the city. Some tours on foot, whereas others are driving tours. The cemetery/voodoo tour includes a narrated visit through St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, complete with the sometimes tragic, sometimes humorous stories of legendary New Orleanians such as voodoo queen Marie Laveau, and the truths and the myths about voodoo. Most tours offered daily. Credit cards can only be used for phone bookings; cash for tickets purchased in person. Phone 504-947- 2120. http://www.tourneworleans.com.

New Orleans Spirit Tours 601 Royal St. Thanks in part to local writer Anne Rice (who once, many years ago, staged her own "funeral" in Lafayette No. 1), New Orleans has a bit of a New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 reputation for the dark side, and this two-hour walking tour by New Phone: 504-314-0806 Orleans Spirit Tours makes it all come to life through dramatic https://www.facebook.com/spirit-tours- storytelling. Ghost and vampire tours held daily at 8:15 pm. Cemetery new-orleans-337553012945855 and voodoo tours occur daily. US$25 adults. 601 Royal St., New Orleans. Phone 504-314-0806. Toll-free 866-369-1224. https://www.facebook.com/spirit-tours-new-orleans-337553012945855.

Save Our Cemeteries Tours 1539 Jackson Ave. This nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving the city's cemeteries New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 offers tours of Lafayette (designated in 1833 and located in the Garden District, it's the city's first planned cemetery and features a variety of Phone: 504-525-3377 tomb styles) and St. Louis No. 1 (founded in 1789, near the French http://www.saveourcemeteries.org Quarter, New Orleans' first cemetery is the final home to the likes of voodoo queen Marie Laveau and world chess champ Paul Morphy). Reservations are encouraged and space is limited. 1539 Jackson Ave., New Orleans. Phone 504-525-3377. http://www.saveourcemeteries.org.

Ship Island Excursions New Orleans, Louisiana Many visitors head to West Ship Island late March to late October. Daily cruises mid-May to mid-August; the rest of the year they're offered Phone: 228-864-1014 Wednesday-Sunday. US$32 adults. (Near the intersection of Highway http://www.msshipisland.com 49 and 23rd Avenue, off Beach Boulevard in Gulfport Harbor.) Phone 228-864-1014. Toll-free 866-466-7386. http://www.msshipisland.com.

The Paddlewheeler Creole Queen 365 Canal St., Suite 2350 Creole Queen is a paddlewheeler that also offers daily river excursions to the Chalmette Battlefield and frequent dinner cruises as well as New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 private charters. Plantation, swamp, city and Katrina tours also Phone: 504-529-4567 available. 365 Canal St., Suite 2350, New Orleans. Phone 504-529- http://www.creolequeen.com 4567. Toll-free 800-445-4109. http://www.creolequeen.com. DINING

Dining Overview

Local cuisine is a delightful mixture of Creole, Cajun, French, soul food and a number of other styles. Vietnamese restaurants are plentiful, as well. By all means try the abundant seafood, including oysters (on the half shell, Rockefeller or Bienville, fried or poached), crawfish (also known as mudbugs—boiled, fried, etouffee or bisque), shrimp (Creole, boiled, fried, stuffed or remoulade), crab (boiled, stuffed, fried or broiled soft-shell), blackened redfish, stuffed flounder, red snapper, pompano or trout en papillote, and fried catfish.

Gumbo is a special case. It can be made with all or just one of the above, as well as with chicken, okra and sausage. Also made with a variety of ingredients is (peppery rice, usually with chicken or seafood).

Red beans and rice (with spicy andouille sausage) is a traditional Monday meal, and you'll usually see it offered (often for free) in bars on that night. Other local treats: (sausage stuffed with a spicy mixture of pork and rice), fried chicken, (made with seasoning and chopped giblets or other meat), deep-fried turkey, stuffed artichoke, stuffed eggplant, po'boys (the New Orleans name for subs or heroes, often filled with fried seafood), muffalettas (a round sandwich stacked with deli meats and Italian seasonings), warm bread pudding with whiskey or rum sauce, beignets (fried dough dusted with powdered sugar), delightful chicory-laced coffee (or cafe au lait), pecan pralines—the list goes on forever.

And don't forget the local tradition of the jazz brunch—a late-morning meal spiced with live music—that'll kick-start your day. Be aware that some of New Orleans' Old Guard restaurants require jackets for men and equivalent attire for women.

Though New Orleans wakes up a little later (and goes to bed a lot later) than the rest of the U.S., meal times are similar to those in other parts of the country: Breakfast is usually served 6-10 am, lunch is 11 am-2:30 pm and dinner is 6-10 pm.

Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one and not including drinks, tax or tip. $ = less than US$10; $$ = US$10-$20; $$$ = US$21-$50; $$$$ = more than US$50.

Bayona 430 Dauphine St., French Quarter Chef Susan Spicer's signature dish is grilled shrimp with black-bean New Orleans, Louisiana 70112 cake and coriander sauce. The duck, cashew-butter and pepper-jelly sandwich (sort of a duck PB&J) is another longtime favorite. The Phone: 504-525-4455 restaurant's design is simple but elegant. Monday and Tuesday from 6 http://www.bayona.com pm, Wednesday-Saturday 11 am-1:30 pm and from 6 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 430 Dauphine St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-525-4455. http://www.bayona.com.

Bon Ton Cafe 401 Magazine St., Central Business A classic Creole restaurant, the Bon Ton has been feeding New Orleanians for more than 100 years. The crab and crawfish dishes are District special, as are the redfish and bread pudding. The service hearkens New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 back to a warmer, softer time. Monday-Friday 11 am-2 pm and 5-9 pm. Phone: 504-524-3386 Reservations recommended for dinner. $$$. 401 Magazine St., Central http://www.thebontoncafe.com Business District, New Orleans. Phone 504-524-3386. http://www.thebontoncafe.com.

Brigtsen's 723 Dante St. Co-owner Frank Brigtsen (pronounced BRIGHT-sen) is known for his delicious southern Louisiana specialties. Tucked among the charming New Orleans, Louisiana 70118 old buildings of the Riverbend area, Brigtsen's serves its dishes in a Phone: 504-861-7610 quiet, homey atmosphere. Be sure to finish your meal with a slice of http://www.brigtsens.com pecan pie drizzled with warm caramel sauce. Tuesday-Saturday 5:30-10 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 723 Dante St., New Orleans. Phone 504-861-7610. http://www.brigtsens.com.

Broussard's 819 Conti St., French Quarter An iconic French Quarter restaurant and event space on Conti Street since 1920, Broussard's is a French Creole restaurant with outstanding New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 cuisine from French-born chef Guy Reinbolt, who doubles as the Phone: 504-581-3866 restaurant's sommelier. Daily 10 am-10 pm. $$$. 819 Conti St., French http://www.broussards.com Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-581-3866. http://www.broussards.com.

Cafe du Monde 800 Decatur St., French Quarter Deciding what to order at this large, open-air cafe across from Jackson Square is simple. There's only one food item on the menu: beignets, New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 New Orleans' version of fried dough, smothered in powdered sugar. Phone: 504-525-4544 Their flavor is complemented by the cafe's superb chicory-laced coffee http://www.cafedumonde.com and cafe au lait. This is the place to both start and end the day. There are many locations, but the others don't provide quite the same experience (although the wait times are shorter). Daily 24 hours. $. No credit cards. 800 Decatur St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-525-4544. http://www.cafedumonde.com.

Central Grocery 923 Decatur St., French Quarter Others may sell muffalettas, some may even claim to be the originator New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 of the recipe, but accept no imitations—this is the original. You stand at the meat case and order your sandwich (made with salami, ham and Phone: 504-523-1620 mozzarella; a half-sandwich is more than enough for one person). What http://centralgrocery.com makes it special is the family-secret olive spread and—some believe— the bread. If you're lucky, you can elbow your way to the counter to eat. Daily 9 am-5 pm. $. 923 Decatur St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-523-1620. http://centralgrocery.com.

Cochon 930 Tchoupitoulas St., Central Business Chef and owner Donald Link pays homage to all things swine at this inspired Cajun restaurant. Link mines his German-Acadian roots with District dishes such as fried boudin with pickled peppers, pork-and-black-eyed- New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 pea gumbo and delectable fried chicken livers with pepper-jelly toast. Or Phone: 504-588-2123 dine at the same location at Link's more casual Cochon Butcher, with http://www.cochonrestaurant.com the same great charcuterie dished out of a sandwich counter and a wine bar that will remind you of an old-world meat market. Butcher has some of the best muffaletta in the city. Monday-Thursday and Sunday 11 am- 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-11 pm. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., Central Business District, New Orleans. Phone 504-588-2123. http://www.cochonrestaurant.com.

Commander's Palace 1403 Washington Ave., Garden District Filling a romantic Victorian mansion across from a historic cemetery, this New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 cornerstone of the Brennan family's restaurant empire prides itself on exquisite service and classy Creole cooking. Most ingredients are Phone: 504-899-8221 sourced locally. Sunday is noted for its jazz brunch. The weekday 25- http://www.commanderspalace.com cent martinis (limit of three with entree) are very popular. Monday- Friday 11:30 am-1:30 pm and from 6 pm, Saturday 11 am-1 pm and from 6 pm, Sunday 10 am-1 pm and from 6 pm. Reservations required. No T-shirts or shorts are allowed. Men must have close-toed shoes. Jackets preferred at dinner but not required. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 1403 Washington Ave., Garden District, New Orleans. Phone 504-899-8221. http://www.commanderspalace.com.

Court of Two Sisters 613 Royal St. It's hard to beat the daily jazz brunch at the Court of Two Sisters. Diners are serenaded by a jazz trio while they feast on a choice of some 60 New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 buffet items, including seafood omelettes, duck a l'orange, jambalaya Phone: 504-522-7261 and bananas Foster. The spacious courtyard is lovely. Daily 9 am-10 http://www.courtoftwosisters.com pm. $$$. 613 Royal St., New Orleans. Phone 504-522-7261. http://www.courtoftwosisters.com.

Dick & Jenny's 4501 Tchoupitoulas St. Owners M. Cristiano Raffignone and Kelly Barker are continuing the kitschy uptown favorite's tradition of serving upscale comfort food, New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 Louisiana-centric seafood and wonderful Italian specialties prepared by Phone: 504-894-9880 creative chef Stacy Hall. Situated in a funky mid-19th-century barge http://www.dickandjennys.com board cottage, Dick & Jenny's is known for its perfect fried oysters (thanks to a mix of cornmeal and corn flour), house-made pappardelle with pulled duck confit and charred peppers, and saffron steamed mussels. Tuesday-Thursday 5-9:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 5-10 pm, Sunday 5-9 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 4501 Tchoupitoulas St., New Orleans. Phone 504-894-9880. http://www.dickandjennys.com.

Emeril's New Orleans 800 Tchoupitoulas St. BAM! , namesake and owner of this restaurant, has been ranked among the top chefs in the country. The chef-turned-TV- New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 star earns raves for his versions of such classics as barbecue shrimp Phone: 504-528-9393 and roasted rack of lamb. Valet parking. Emeril also owns two other http://www.emerilsrestaurants.com/emerils- restaurants in the city—NOLA and Emeril's Delmonico. If you're lucky, new-orleans you'll catch him in the kitchen. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-10 pm, Saturday and Sunday 6-10 pm. Reservations highly recommended. Casual dress, but no sleeveless shirts for men. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. 800 Tchoupitoulas St., New Orleans. Phone 504-528-9393. http://www.emerilsrestaurants.com/emerils-new-orleans.

Galatoire's 209 Bourbon St., French Quarter This award-winning restaurant is frequented by residents as well as tourists. Some of the famous specialties include duck crepes, crabmeat New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 sardou and crabmeat maison. If you want to eat in the original Phone: 504-525-2021 downstairs dining room, expect to wait in line on weekends and during http://www.galatoires.com special events. The remodeled second floor accepts reservations for any size party. Sunday noon-10 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 11:30 am-10 pm. Business casual for lunch; no shorts or T-shirts. Jackets required for men after 5 pm (and all day Sunday); the restaurant lends jackets if needed. $$$. 209 Bourbon St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-525-2021. http://www.galatoires.com.

K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen 416 Chartres St., French Quarter Before there was Emeril, there was Paul Prudhomme, who is credited with introducing the world to New Orleans' Cajun flavors in the 1980s. New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 The late chef's 200-seat restaurant (named for his wife, K) has three Phone: 504-596-2530 kitchens and a bakery that serves as testament to his popularity, and it http://www.kpauls.com remains the standard for Creole-style cooking. Dinner menu changes daily based on availability of ingredients, but you might find turtle soup, shrimp and corn , crawfish etoufee and bread pudding for dessert. Don't be put off by all the tourists; this is good food at a reasonable price. Monday-Saturday 5:30-10 pm. Dress is business casual. $$-$$$. 416 Chartres St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-596-2530. http://www.kpauls.com.

Lilette 3637 Magazine St., Garden District Chef John Harris exceeds expectations with his gnocchi with sage brown butter and parmigiano cream, and the Australian Kobe New York New Orleans, Louisiana 70115 strip with duck fat and roasted potatoes. Pastry chef Carrie Laird's Phone: 504-895-1636 desserts are a must—try the vanilla panna cotta with salted caramel and http://www.liletterestaurant.com the apple-ginger sorbet. Monday 5:30-9:30 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 11:30 am-10:30 pm. $$-$$$. 3637 Magazine St., Garden District, New Orleans. Phone 504-895-1636. http://www.liletterestaurant.com.

Luke 333 St. Charles Ave., Central Business One of nine restaurants from John Besh, Luke (named for his eldest son) is a bustling French brasserie, New Orleans style. A handsome District space defined by a beautiful, carved-wood bar, Luke offers a daily New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 special that might include lapin au moutarde (grilled rabbit sausage with Phone: 504-378-2840 pasta and mustard sauce), veal with ricotta cavetelli or "Court bouillon," http://www.lukeneworleans.com a mix of redfish, crab, shrimp and oysters over Louisiana popcorn rice. Alsatian dishes such as the jagerschnitzel—fried veal cutlets accompanied by an heirloom tomato and field pea salad—are especially memorable. Daily 7 am-11 pm. $$-$$$. 333 St. Charles Ave., Central Business District, New Orleans. Phone 504-378-2840. http://www.lukeneworleans.com.

Mandina's 3800 Canal St., Mid-City Opened as a grocery store in 1898, Mandina's opened as a full-service restaurant in 1932 and is still in the original family. The prices are low, New Orleans, Louisiana 70119 and the environment casual and unpretentious. The menu consists of Phone: 504-482-9179 the same New Orleans specialties—such as oyster and artichoke http://www.mandinasrestaurant.com bisque, , fried seafood and po'boys—that have been served there for more than 80 years. The trout amandine and the turtle soup are favorites. Monday-Thursday 11 am-9:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-10 pm, Sunday noon-9 pm. $$. 3800 Canal St., Mid- City, New Orleans. Phone 504-482-9179. http://www.mandinasrestaurant.com.

Mr. B's Bistro 201 Royal St., French Quarter This Brennan family restaurant with an elegant atmosphere is located in New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 the heart of the Quarter. Try the barbecue shrimp or any of the hickory- grilled meats, but save room for the famous bread pudding for dessert. Phone: 504-523-2078 Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-9 pm. $$$-$$$$. 201 Royal St., French http://www.mrbsbistro.com Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-523-2078. http://www.mrbsbistro.com.

Restaurant August 301 Tchoupitoulas St. Louisiana native chef Ross Dover creates extraordinary European-style cuisine with Gulf Coast ingredients in an atmospheric circa-1800s New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 French building in the Central Business District. The menu might include Phone: 504-299-9777 foie gras prepared in three ways, handmade gnocchi served with blue http://www.restaurantaugust.com crab and black truffle, or Mississippi Blackbelly lamb. Monday-Friday 11 am-10 pm, Saturday and Sunday 5-10 pm. $$$-$$$$. 301 Tchoupitoulas St., New Orleans. Phone 504-299-9777. http://www.restaurantaugust.com.

Tableau 616 St. Peter St. Elegant and dripping with architectural details, this restaurant from Dickie Brennan spotlights regional ingredients and classic French Creole New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 fare. Although there isn't a bad seat in the house, Tableau's seating Phone: 504-934-3463 along the wrap-around balcony overlooking Jackson Square is http://www.tableaufrenchquarter.com stupendous. The restaurant shares space with Le Petit Theatre. Order eggs Sardou anytime, or try barbecue shrimp over goat-cheese grits. Praline monkey-bread pudding is just one of the amazing desserts. Monday-Friday from 11 am, Saturday and Sunday from 10 am. $$-$$$. 616 St. Peter St., New Orleans. Phone 504-934-3463. http://www.tableaufrenchquarter.com.

The Grill Room 300 Gravier St. One of New Orleans' finest, located in the Windsor Court Hotel, this restaurant promises a memorable dining experience with its New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 scrumptious contemporary Louisiana dishes and extraordinary Phone: 504-523-6000 presentations. Chef Vlad Ahmadyarov presides over an au courant http://www.grillroomneworleans.com menu that includes a five-course chef's tasting menu with such fine entrees as redfish with a crawfish fricassee. Daily 7 am-10 pm. Reservations recommended. Jackets required; no jeans, sneakers or shorts. $$$-$$$$. 300 Gravier St. (in the Windsor Court Hotel), New Orleans. Phone 504-523-6000. http://www.grillroomneworleans.com.

Tujague's 823 Decatur St., French Quarter Established in 1856, this French Quarter restaurant (pronounced "two New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 jacks") serves up old-fashioned, no-frills Creole cuisine just as it was in Phone: 504-525-8676 the early 1900s. The six-course meals can include such things as shrimp remoulade, beef brisket, pecan pie, crab soup, crawfish gumbo http://www.tujaguesrestaurant.com and even the restaurant's own beer. The wait can be long Friday- Sunday, but there's a nice bar up front. Monday-Thursday 5-9 pm, Friday 11 am-10 pm, Saturday 10 am-10 pm, Sunday 10 am-9 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. 823 Decatur St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-525-8676. http://www.tujaguesrestaurant.com.

Upperline 1413 Upperline St., Uptown Upperline's exterior is partly covered with murals by New Orleans artist Martin LaBorde. The artistic bent carries over to the interior, which is New Orleans, Louisiana 70115 decorated with an ever-changing art collection. Diners will find a range Phone: 504-891-9822 of dishes that are just as artful—try the duck confit and braised lamb http://www.upperline.com shank. Wine connoisseurs will find more than 170 selections. Wednesday-Sunday for dinner. $$$. 1413 Upperline St., Uptown, New Orleans. Phone 504-891-9822. http://www.upperline.com.

American

Dooky Chase 2301 Orleans Ave. President Obama ate there. So did Ray Charles after his late-night shows—in fact, he wrote Early in the Morning about Dooky Chase. This New Orleans, Louisiana 70119 is real-deal soul food—red beans and rice, fried chicken, okra and Phone: 504-821-0600 shrimp-and-grits. The lunch buffet is a winner. Tuesday-Thursday 11 http://www.dookychaserestaurant.com am-3 pm, Friday 11 am-9 pm. Reservations recommended, especially for New Orleans' holidays. $-$$. 2301 Orleans Ave. (Treme), New Orleans. Phone 504-821-0600. http://www.dookychaserestaurant.com.

Mother's 401 Poydras St., Central Business You can usually find Mother's by the long line weaving around the block District in the middle of the Central Business District. No insult intended, but your mama never cooked anything as scrumptious as the "debris"-laden New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 roast-beef po'boy, or the jambalaya. Daily soul-food specials include Phone: 504-523-9656 corned beef and cabbage, white beans, red beans and rice, and what is http://www.mothersrestaurant.net said to be some of the best ham on the planet. Daily 7 am-10 pm. Reservations not accepted. $$. 401 Poydras St., Central Business District, New Orleans. Phone 504-523-9656. http://www.mothersrestaurant.net.

Port of Call 838 Esplanade Ave., French Quarter A staple on Esplanade Avenue for more than 40 years, Port of Call is best known for its Dagwood-sized, char-grilled half-pound burgers, New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 accompanied by a loaded baked potato. It's a meat-lover's dream at this Phone: 504-523-0120 kitschy, nautical-themed restaurant, with steak another popular option. http://www.portofcallnola.com Vegetarians can munch on a potato and salad—hold the bacon—but vegans will want to dine elsewhere. The Neptune Monsoon is Port of Call's version of a Hurricane, and the Huma Huma will have you speaking Hawaiian before you know it. There's often a wait, especially during festival times. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-midnight, Friday and Saturday 11 am-1 am. Reservations not accepted. $$. 838 Esplanade Ave., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-523-0120. http://www.portofcallnola.com.

Stein's Market and Deli 2207 Magazine St., Lower Garden Your eyes aren't deceiving you—this is a wonderful Jewish deli in the District heart of Nola. There are Italian hoagies, corned-beef and pastrami sandwiches, tuna salad, matzo-ball soup, bagels "imported" from the New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 Upper West Side of Manhattan, and a whole menu of specialty cheeses. Phone: 504-527-0771 Don't forget the Jewish pickle. Tuesday-Friday 7 am-7 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9 am-5 pm. $. 2207 Magazine St., Lower Garden District, http://steinsdeli.com New Orleans. Phone 504-527-0771. http://steinsdeli.com.

The Joint 701 Mazant, Bywater Delicious barbecue in the Bywater. The Joint is often packed with tourists and locals; neighborhood residents often grab a meal to-go for New Orleans, Louisiana their family. It's always hard to know what to order, but you can't really Phone: 504-949-3232 go wrong with anything. Try the three-meat combo plate with two sides. http://www.alwayssmokin.com The mac and cheese is a huge hit, as are the potato salad and baked beans. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-10 pm. $-$$. 701 Mazant, Bywater (at Royal), New Orleans. Phone 504-949-3232. http://www.alwayssmokin.com.

Willie Mae's Scotch House 2401 St. Ann St., Treme Another great soul food restaurant, Willie Mae's is not to be missed for New Orleans, Louisiana 70119 lunch. Try the smothered pork chops, butter beans or battered and fried chicken (some call it the best fried chicken in town). Monday-Saturday Phone: 504-822-9503 10 am-8 pm. $-$$. 2401 St. Ann St., Treme, New Orleans. Phone 504- http://www.williemaesnola.com 822-9503. http://www.williemaesnola.com.

Five Happiness 3605 S. Carrollton Ave. This neighborhood Chinese restaurant has been a favorite with locals for more than 30 years, and offers such specialties as sauteed crawfish New Orleans, Louisiana 70118 tail, house-baked duck and twice-cooked pork. Sunday-Thursday 11 Phone: 504-482-3935 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-11 pm. $$. 3605 S. Carrollton http://www.fivehappiness.com Ave., New Orleans. Phone 504-482-3935. http://www.fivehappiness.com.

Pho Bistreaux 1200 S. Carrollton Ave. On the corner of Carrollton and Oak lives this quaint Vietnamese restaurant tucked inside beautiful New Orleans architecture. The hip New Orleans, Louisiana and laidback atmosphere provides the perfect setting for a bowl of the Phone: 504-304-8334 namesake pho or its "Vietnamese po'boy," also available as a banh mi. The restaurant does not offer alcohol but encourages you to take your own. Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-9 pm. 1200 S. Carrollton Ave., New Orleans. Phone 504-304-8334.

Wasabi 900 Frenchman St., Marigny A favorite sushi bar for many New Orleanians. The sushi lunch or dinner New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 serves up a nice mix of sushi for the inexperienced or indecisive diner. Try the beef or chicken teriyaki if you're not a seafood fan. There is a Phone: 504-943-9433 second location at 8550 Pontchartrain Blvd., West End. Monday- http://www.wasabinola.com Thursday 11:30 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30 am-11 pm. 900 Frenchman St., Marigny, New Orleans. Phone 504-943-9433. http://www.wasabinola.com.

Antoine's 713 St. Louis St., French Quarter It's in the Quarter, it's French and it was founded in 1840—that's about as New Orleans as a restaurant can get. This is the place that invented New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 oysters Rockefeller. Enjoy other authentic French classics such as Phone: 504-581-4422 escargot and Chateaubriand. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-9 pm, http://www.antoines.com Sunday 10:30 am-2 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. 713 St. Louis St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-581-4422. http://www.antoines.com.

Arnaud's 813 Bienville St., French Quarter Opened in 1918, this French classic originated oysters Bienville and shrimp Arnaud. Be sure to stop in on Sunday morning for one of the New Orleans, Louisiana 70112 best jazz brunches in the city, featuring great live jazz and a four-course Phone: 504-523-5433 prix-fixe brunch. Daily from 6 pm. Reservations recommended. Jackets http://www.arnaudsrestaurant.com required for men in the main dining room. $$$-$$$$. 813 Bienville St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-523-5433. Toll-free 866-220- 8891 for reservations. http://www.arnaudsrestaurant.com.

Cafe Degas 3127 Esplanade Ave. A local favorite with a classic French bistro menu, including escargot, mussels, steak and yellowfin tuna. It's situated in the lovely Faubourg St. New Orleans, Louisiana 70119 John neighborhood where French impressionist painter Edgar Degas Phone: 504-945-5635 once lived. Wednesday-Friday 11 am-10 pm, Saturday 10:30 am-10 http://www.cafedegas.com pm, Sunday 10:30 am-9:30 pm. Reservations suggested for groups of three or more. $$$. 3127 Esplanade Ave., New Orleans. Phone 504- 945-5635. http://www.cafedegas.com.

Green Goddess 307 Exchange Place, French Quarter A funky little spot—literally, with just 14 seats indoors—that spills out onto the alley in nice weather. In addition to Creole flavors, chef Paul New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 Artigues features global-inspired dishes with special emphasis on Indian Phone: 504-301-3347 cuisine. Try the pork sugarcane lollipops with coconut slaw or the South http://www.greengoddessrestaurant.com Indian uttapam (a pancake with onions, peas, peppers, tomatoes and panchpuran rolled and filled with vegan curry). Wednesday-Sunday 11 am-9 pm. Reservations not accepted. $$-$$$. 307 Exchange Place, French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-301-3347. http://www.greengoddessrestaurant.com.

Mona Lisa 1212 Royal St., French Quarter A favorite Italian-American restaurant on the edge of the French Quarter. Paper and crayons are supplied in case you want to draw your New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 own rendition of its famous namesake. The walls are covered with Phone: 504-522-6746 unique versions of the famous Da Vinci painting. An intimate setting; the https://www.monalisaneworleans.com staff is always friendly. Try the chicken parm or the seafood pizza. Portions are huge and they come with salad—you may want to share. Wednesday-Monday 5-10 pm. $$. 1212 Royal St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-522-6746. https://www.monalisaneworleans.com.

Pizza Delicious 617 Piety St. Creative toppings and almost always perfect thin-crust pies are the calling card at this former pop-up in the Bywater. Daily salads are New Orleans, Louisiana 70117 creative tosses such as arugula with local peaches and fried capers, Phone: 504-676-8482 and the few pasta options are often handmade. Although there isn't a http://www.pizzadelicious.com bar, craft beer and well-priced wines are available. Place your order and pay at the counter of the industrial chic former warehouse, then pull up a table inside (it's loud) or outside (much quieter). Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-11 pm. $$. 617 Piety St., New Orleans. Phone 504-676-8482. http://www.pizzadelicious.com.

Vincent's Italian Cuisine 7839 St. Charles Ave., Uptown Garden An upscale Italian restaurant in New Orleans. With specialties such as District seafood-stuffed pork, veal piccata and sauteed Italian oysters, you'll understand why it's often voted best in the city. Located right on the New Orleans, Louisiana 70118 historic St. Charles Streetcar line. Tuesday-Friday 11:30 am-10 pm, Phone: 504-866-9313 Saturday and Sunday 5-10 pm. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. http://www.vincentsitaliancuisine.com 7839 St. Charles Ave., Uptown Garden District, New Orleans. Phone 504-866-9313. http://www.vincentsitaliancuisine.com.

Taqueria Corona 5932 Magazine St., Uptown If you find yourself tiring of barbecue shrimp and oysters Rockefeller, let this Mexican taqueria come to the rescue. With dishes such as cebollitas New Orleans, Louisiana 70115 (charbroiled green onions and salt), avocado salad and carne asada (a Phone: 504-897-3974 12-oz/340-g ribeye steak marinated in lime, tequila and cilantro pesto, http://www.taqueriacorona.com then charbroiled), you'll cleanse your palate in time for happy hour. Locals say it's the city's best Mexican restaurant. Daily 11:30 am-9 pm. $-$$. 5932 Magazine St., Uptown, New Orleans. Phone 504-897-3974. http://www.taqueriacorona.com. Mona's Cafe and Deli 504 Frenchmen St., Faubourg Marigny Entrees include kebabs, gyros, grape leaves and good vegetarian alternatives. The appetizers are just as wonderful—the baba ghanoush New Orleans, Louisiana and the spinach pies are favorites. Iced sage tea with pine nuts Phone: 504-949-4115 completes the meal. There is a Middle Eastern grocery market inside https://monascafeanddeli.com the Frenchman and Banks Street locations, as well. Additional locations at 1120 S. Carrollton Ave., 4126 Magazine St. and 3901 Banks St. Monday-Thursday 11 am-9:30 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-10:30 pm, Sunday noon-8:30 pm. $$. 504 Frenchmen St., Faubourg Marigny, New Orleans. Phone 504-949-4115. https://monascafeanddeli.com.

Breakfast & Brunch

Cafe Envie and Espresso Bar 1241 Decatur St., French Quarter Start your day with caffeine and a good breakfast, or grab a panini any New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 time. Try the prosciutto and asparagus (prosciutto, grilled asparagus, mozzarella cheese and olive oil) or the caprese (fresh basil, tomatoes, Phone: 504-524-3689 mozzarella cheese and pesto sauce). Both served on sourdough http://www.cafeenvie.com with potato salad. Sunday-Thursday 7 am-midnight, Friday and Saturday 7 am-1 am. $. 1241 Decatur St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-524-3689. http://www.cafeenvie.com.

Cake Cafe and Bakery 2440 Chartres Ave., Marigny Known for its baked goods, this cafe also serves breakfast and lunch. Try the shrimp and grits or the special omelette (spinach, bacon and New Orleans, Louisiana brie). Be sure to order a cupcake for an extra buck with your lunch. The Phone: 504-943-0010 king cakes, an only-during-Mardi Gras specialty, are outstanding. http://www.nolacakes.com Wednesday-Monday 7 am-3 pm. 2440 Chartres Ave., Marigny, New Orleans. Phone 504-943-0010. http://www.nolacakes.com.

Surrey's Cafe and Juice Bar 1418 Magazine St., Garden District This small neighborhood cafe believes that every day is Sunday—and so it offers a full brunch menu daily. The banana pancakes are New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 scrumptious—a large pancake with bananas in the center, and the Phone: 504-524-3828 whole thing is garnished with peanut butter, cream cheese or pecans. http://www.surreysnola.com Oatmeal, huevos rancheros, bagel sandwiches and veggie omelettes are a few other choices. Be sure to order something from the organic juice bar. Second location at 4807 Magazine St. Daily 8 am-3 pm. $-$$. 1418 Magazine St., Garden District, New Orleans. Phone 504-524- 3828. http://www.surreysnola.com.

The Trolley Stop Cafe 1923 St. Charles Ave., Garden District Converted from an old gas station, this diner is often jumping with New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 cabbies, guests from St. Charles Avenue hotels and locals. Besides po'boys and plate dinners, the Stop offers a full breakfast menu Phone: 504-523-0090 featuring generously stuffed omelettes, pancakes and French toast. https://www.thetrolleystopcafe.com Monday-Wednesay 7 am-3 pm, Thursday 7 am-10 pm, Friday-Sunday 6 am-2 am. $. 1923 St. Charles Ave., Garden District, New Orleans. Phone 504-523-0090. https://www.thetrolleystopcafe.com.

Le Salon 300 Gravier St. For a traditional English afternoon tea experience, venture inside the Windsor Court Hotel. Each session is started with a light cocktail and New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 completed with a freshly brewed pot of loose-leaf tea, sandwiches, Phone: 504-596-4774 scones and desserts. Friday 2 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11 am and 2 https://windsorcourthotel.com/dining/le- pm. Reservations required. US$49.12 adults. 300 Gravier St., New salon Orleans. Phone 504-596-4774. https://windsorcourthotel.com/dining/le- salon. The Tea Witch Cafe 1381 Magazine St. In this Creole cottage style building, you'll get the unique opportunity to drink tea that's been handcrafted by herbal witches. Each blend you find New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 in this cafe serves a magical and medicinal purpose. Be sure to also try Phone: 504-407-0694 the vegan and gluten-free baked goods. Wednesday-Sunday noon-6 http://www.teawitchtea.com/tea-witch- pm. 1381 Magazine St., New Orleans. Phone 504-407-0694. cafe http://www.teawitchtea.com/tea-witch-cafe.

CC's Coffee 941 Royal St. Short for Community Coffee House, it's Louisiana's alternative to Starbucks, with more than 30 locations throughout the state. The New New Orleans, Louisiana 70809 Orleans blend is made with chicory, which gives it a darker appearance Phone: 504-581-6996 but a smoother taste. Espresso drinks, smoothies and baked goods are http://www.ccscoffee.com also on the menu. Monday-Friday 6 am-9 pm, Saturday and Sunday 7 am-9 pm. $. 941 Royal St., New Orleans. Phone 504-581-6996. http://www.ccscoffee.com.

Still Perkin' Coffee 2727 Prytania St. Located in The Rink mini-mall, this cozy coffee shop is a local favorite. A wide selection of teas, coffee and iced coffee, as well as delicious treats. New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 Monday-Friday 7 am-6 pm, Saturday and Sunday 8 am-5 pm. $. 2727 Phone: 504-899-0335 Prytania St. (Garden District), New Orleans. Phone 504-899-0335.

Who Dat Coffee Cafe 2401 Burgundy Ave., Faubourg Marigny A fun, funky coffee shop in the Marigny. Sit in one of the comfy couches or watch the neighborhood from the sidewalk tables. Lots of local New Orleans, Louisiana 70117 groups use it as a meeting place, and businesspeople and artists enjoy Phone: 504-872-0360 the free internet access. Daily 7 am-10 pm. 2401 Burgundy Ave., https://www.facebook.com/whodatcoffeecafe Faubourg Marigny, New Orleans. Phone 504-872-0360. https://www.facebook.com/whodatcoffeecafe.

Clover Grill 900 Bourbon St. Although the decor is reminiscent of 1950s small-town U.S., this provocative French Quarter diner has a colorful clientele: Don't be New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 surprised to find yourself rubbing elbows with drag queens, debutantes, Phone: 504-598-1010 celebrities or a jazz chanteuse. People go for the burgers (cooked under http://www.clovergrill.com a '59 Ford hubcap), grits, omelettes, shakes and other greasy-spoon fare. The menu is one of the most comical in New Orleans—you're entreated not to steal it. Daily 24 hours. $. 900 Bourbon St., New Orleans. Phone 504-598-1010. http://www.clovergrill.com.

Casamento's Restaurant 4330 Magazine St. The oyster is king at Casamento's. You can have it any way you'd like— New Orleans, Louisiana 70115 raw, fried, grilled, stewed, steamed or in a famous oyster loaf. Tuesday, Friday and Saturday 11 am-9 pm, Sunday 4-8:45 pm. No credit cards. Phone: 504-895-9761 4330 Magazine St., New Orleans. Phone 504-895-9761. http://www.casamentosrestaurant.com http://www.casamentosrestaurant.com.

Jack Dempsey's Restaurant 738 Poland Ave., Bywater An unassuming and unlikely looking restaurant in the Bywater, Jack Dempsey's is well-known to locals and specializes in seafood and steak. New Orleans, Louisiana 70117 Try the broiled redfish Pontchartrain (redfish topped with crab meat) or Phone: 504-943-9914 the J.D. platter for two (fried shrimp, oysters, catfish, redfish, crab balls, http://jackdempseys.net crawfish pies and gumbo). Tuesday 11 am-2 pm, Wednesday and Thursday 11 am-8 pm, Friday 11 am-9 pm, Saturday noon-9 pm. 738 Poland Ave., Bywater, New Orleans. Phone 504-943-9914. http://jackdempseys.net.

Peche Seafood Grill 800 Magazine St. With the same singular focus he applies to swine at Cochon, chef Donald Link hones in on all things seafood at this industrial-chic New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 Warehouse District restaurant. This place is all about local and line- Phone: 504-522-1744 caught seafood, most of it cooked on an epic wood-fire grill. Chef- http://www.pecherestaurant.com partner Ryan Prewitt delivers intriguing dishes such as spicy Asian- flavored capellini with crab and chilies, beer-battered fish sticks, and one of the best grilled whole redfish you'll ever eat in your life, a beauty flavored with a lemony herbaceous salsa verde. Wednesday-Monday 11 am-9 pm. Make reservations well in advance. $$$. 800 Magazine St., New Orleans. Phone 504-522-1744. http://www.pecherestaurant.com.

Red Fish Grill 115 Bourbon St., French Quarter Opened by the famous Brennan family, this Bourbon Street restaurant serves seafood specialties in a casual environment. The hickory-grilled New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 redfish, barbecue oysters and andouille-crusted gulf fish have been the Phone: 504-598-1200 talk of the town for more than a decade. Don't miss the double- http://www.redfishgrill.com chocolate bread pudding for dessert. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-10 pm, Friday and Saturday 11 am-11 pm. $$-$$$. 115 Bourbon St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-598-1200. http://www.redfishgrill.com.

Dickie Brennan's 716 Iberville St., French Quarter One of New Orleans' best steak houses is yet another venture by the New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 enterprising Brennan family. This restaurant used to be a parking garage until Dickie and his sister, Lauren, converted it in 1998. Besides Phone: 504-522-2467 every possible cut of beef, there's standard steak-house fare with a http://www.dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com Creole touch. Try the McIlhenny salad with fried oysters, bleu cheese and a house-made Tabasco-chipotle-buttermilk dressing. Daily from 5 pm. Jackets recommended for men. $$$-$$$$. 716 Iberville St., French Quarter, New Orleans. Phone 504-522-2467. http://www.dickiebrennanssteakhouse.com.

Galatoire's 33 Bar & Steak 215 Bourbon St. Like siblings who share a good gene pool, Galatoire's and Galatoire's 33 Bar & Steak give diners the best of all worlds. Galatoire's will always be New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 a classic, but 33 holds its own, starting with the soothing dining room Phone: 504-335-3932 accented in leather, mahogany and hunter green. Award-winning http://www.galatoires33barandsteak.com executive chef Michael Sichel offers familiar dishes (turtle soup) along with soon-to-be classics (deviled eggs with local ghost-pepper caviar). The steaks are perfect, including a juicy seared bone-in tenderloin drizzled with silky Bordelaise. Sunday-Thursday 5-10 pm, Friday 11:30 am-11 pm, Saturday 5-11 pm. $$$-$$$$. 215 Bourbon St., New Orleans. Phone 504-335-3932. http://www.galatoires33barandsteak.com.

Hansen's Sno-Bliz 4801 Tchoupitoulas St. The best nonalcoholic way to cool off in New Orleans, this sno-cone stand has been around since 1939, and it continues to draw locals and New Orleans, Louisiana 70115 tourists like clockwork each day. Try the root-beer flavor—it's from a Phone: 504-891-9788 special family recipe. Early May-September Tuesday-Sunday 1-7 pm. $. http://www.snobliz.com 4801 Tchoupitoulas St., New Orleans. Phone 504-891-9788. http://www.snobliz.com.

SECURITY

Etiquette

At times, it seems that New Orleans has its own language, but colorful speech is part of the city's charm. It may be helpful to know that sandwiches with lettuce, tomato, pickles and mayonnaise are "dressed." A median—the strip of grass that divides one side of the street from the other—is called "neutral ground." "Lagniappe" (pronounced LAN-yap) is a widely applied term that means "a little something extra." Even the proper pronunciation of the city's name is open to debate: Locals abhor it when visitors refer to their city as new or- LEANS—it's new OR-lens. "How's your momma and dem?" is a typical greeting among friends, but even strangers are smiled at and greeted on the street with "where y'at?" or "how you doing?". You don't have to stop to chat; "how you doing?" is an acceptable reply. The French Quarter and Central Business District are safe places for tourists to sightsee, but, as in any major city, common sense is required. At night, stay where the crowds are. Don't carry a lot of cash or wear flashy jewelry, and be aware of your surroundings at all times, especially when using ATMs. Visitors should pay particular attention to their surroundings during Mardi Gras and festivals, because of the increase in drunken crowds and a more raucous atmosphere. Using a hidden pocket is a good idea in bars; the crowded dance floor makes it easy for a wallet to go missing.

The New Orleans Police Department is world-renowned for its management of special events such as Mardi Gras, crowd control and keeping nearly 9 million annual visitors to the city safe. Patrol by horseback is common, especially in the French Quarter.

The most common theft occurs to people walking along using smartphones without paying attention to their surroundings. Use your phone inside a building or ensure you are aware of what is happening around you as you use it. Unlocked cars are also easy targets.

Visitors will find adequate medical care to handle small or large emergencies. If you are staying downtown, Tulane Medical Center handles emergency care. 1415 Tulane Ave., Central Business District. Phone 504-988-5263. http://www.tulanehealthcare.com.

Other health-care providers include Interim LSU Public Hospital, known to locals as University (2021 Perdido St., Uptown; phone 504-903- 3000), Children's Hospital (200 Henry Clay Ave., Uptown; phone 504-899-9511) and Touro Infirmary at 1401 Foucher St., Garden District. Phone 504-897-7011. There are also "doc in a box" 24-hour walk-in urgent care clinics around town, including Doctor After Hours in Lakeside and out by the airport. Other clinic locations are at 101 W. Robert E. Lee Blvd. (phone 504-288-3456) and 5236 Veterans Blvd. in Metairie (phone 504-885-8700).

If you find yourself in an emergency situation, call 911.

Pharmacies such as Walgreens, CVS and Rite Aid are scattered throughout the city.

Most tourist-oriented places in New Orleans are well-equipped to handle those with disabilities, but do be advised that those with wheelchairs may find some sidewalks difficult to navigate because of uneven ground and potholes.

The Advocacy Center offers advice and support for those with disabilities. Office hours are Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm. 8325 Oak St., New Orleans. Phone 504-522-2337. Toll-free 800-960-7705. http://www.advocacyla.org.

In addition, during Mardi Gras, the city constructs a viewing platform near Gallier Hall, 545 St. Charles Ave. Free tickets are available on a first-come, first-served basis at City Hall, 1300 Perdido St., Suite 1W09. Phone 504-658-4015.

Do settle in to the amiable hospitality that defines this laid-back city. It's normal for passersby to greet each other on the street with a "hello." You'll find it becomes habit-forming.

Don't wander around any part of the city alone at night. Crime, as in any big city, is a reality in the Big Easy.

Do tip street musicians and bar bands. Although the quality of music is high in New Orleans, the pay scale for most musicians is abysmal. It's customary to pass the hat, so keep plenty of small bills on hand.

Don't drink alcohol from glass containers on the streets; however, plastic or aluminum containers are completely acceptable.

Do keep in mind that the Crescent City Connection and The Causeway are toll bridges (and ferries also charge) upon return to New Orleans. For passenger vehicles the ferries and CCC are US$1, whereas The Causeway is US$3.

Do take advantage of the many one-of-a-kind restaurants in New Orleans. Save the chain restaurants for another city.

Do take your time strolling as the locals do. Residents can always spot tourists when they quickly dart along the streets.

Don't be offended if someone calls you "baby"; it isn't a come on (except perhaps late at night in a bar), they're just being friendly.

FACTS

Geostats

Passport/Visa Requirements: All U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean, Central and South America and Mexico. Citizens of Canada, Mexico and the British Overseas Territory of Bermuda also must have a passport or other designated secure document to enter the U.S. Passports are required for land crossings at the Canadian and Mexican borders with the U.S. and for cruise passengers returning to the U.S. from Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada or Bermuda. Reconfirm travel-document requirements with your carrier prior to departure.

Population: 391,006.

Languages: English. Spanish is becoming increasingly popular, with Cajun French spoken in the Bayou areas.

Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic, Protestant), though most major religions are represented.

Time Zone: 6 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-6 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the second Sunday in March to the first Sunday in November.

Voltage Requirements: 110 volts.

Telephone Codes: 504, area code in New Orleans; 985,area code for Greater New Orleans;

Currency Exchange

Converting foreign currency to U.S. dollars at major banks will incur a service charge as well as an unfavorable rate of exchange, but using an ATM usually allows a higher withdrawal and a lower fee. Some hotels will exchange currency as a service for guests.

ATMs are readily available throughout the city. Most accept foreign bank and credit cards (if you obtain a PIN prior to travel) and dispense U.S. currency at the going rate of exchange. Look for the ATMs in the French Quarter with a US$0.99 fee.

Use standard precautions to protect your PIN and safety when withdrawing money.

Sales tax in New Orleans totals 9.45%. An additional 5% tax is added to hotel bills for a total of 14.45%. Hotels charge an additional nightly tax of US$2-$3, based on the property's total number of rooms.

Visitors from outside the U.S. can receive a refund of the Louisiana sales tax on items they take home with them. To receive the refund, you need to purchase the item from a participating vendor (many of the New Orleans shopping malls participate) and show them proof of citizenship (a passport in most cases). You will then receive a voucher for the amount of tax paid that is redeemable at the Tax-Free Shopping Refund Center at the New Orleans International Airport or the Downtown Refund Center at Riverwalk Marketplace. You'll need a copy of your round-trip airline ticket and your passport. Be prepared to have a handling fee deducted from your refund. http://www.louisianataxfree.com.

In restaurants and bars, a 20% tip is the norm. For cabs and pedicabs, tip 20% or US$5, depending on the distance and time of day. Hotel housekeepers usually receive US$5 nightly; bellhops US$1.50-$2 per bag; and give room service waitstaff 15% of the bill. Tour guides should also be tipped US$3-$5 per person, depending on the cost of the tour and service experience.

Weather

The best months to visit are March and April or October and November. Winter will seem mild to visitors from colder climes, though January temperatures have been known to drop below freezing. For Mardi Gras (February-March), expect temperatures of 46-65 F/7-18 C. Winter can be rainy. In June, July and August, be prepared for temperatures at or above 90 F/32 C and humidity that equals that of the Amazon. Pace your sightseeing if you go at that time, drink lots of water and dress appropriately—the humidity can be exhausting.

Hurricane season generally runs June-November, with August and September historically the most active months. Evacuation plans usually go into effect about 48 hours before a storm is expected to strike. The good news is that unlike tornadoes and earthquakes, hurricanes are usually known about well in advance—you should have plenty of time to leave town.

New Orleans can be hot and muggy during the spring and summer (March-September), so the underlying principle for dress is "keep cool." But if you plan to dine in one of the more upscale restaurants, check the dress code. Even in the summer, a few establishments require jackets for men and dressier outfits for women. Fortunately, those restaurants are air-conditioned. However, most places turn the air-conditioning up full blast in the warm-weather months, so it's a good idea to take a light jacket for indoor dining as well.

For sightseeing, you'll want light, casual clothing. In the winter, a sweater or light jacket is often necessary (pack layers if you visit in December or January). In the rainy season (June-November, also hurricane season), you'll want to pack a raincoat. Storms are frequent and heavy, but often short.

In most corporate settings, businessmen can wear a lightweight sportcoat, tie and light cotton slacks. Businesswomen, too, dress for the heat, so in most cases the dark power suits can be left at home. Telephone

Most public phones in New Orleans have fallen into a state of disrepair; there are plenty around, but few actually work. Cell phone coverage is excellent. You must dial the area code when making local calls from a local number. Free Wi-Fi can be found at many of the city's restaurants and coffee shops. Airport passengers can access free Wi-Fi throughout the departure level of the main terminal at New Orleans International Airport.

Many cafes in the French Quarter have internet access, including Cafe Rose Nicaud at 632 Frenchmen St. and Cafe Amelie at 912 Royal St. All New Orleans area libraries offer free Wi-Fi. Library locations can be found at http://nutrias.org.

U.S. post offices are available in several downtown locations, but for really important packages it's best to send with a leading courier company. U.S. Post Office 701 Loyola Ave., Central Business Main post office. Monday-Friday 7:30 am-7 pm, Saturday 8 am-3 pm. 701 Loyola Ave., Central Business District, New Orleans. Toll-free 800- District 275-8777. https://www.usps.com. New Orleans, Louisiana 70113 https://www.usps.com The Times-Picayune was once the city's sole daily newspaper. Daily news is available online (http://www.nola.com). The Advocate, based in Baton Rouge, publishes a daily New Orleans edition.

New Orleans' business information weekly is CityBusiness. http://neworleanscitybusiness.com.

GambitWeekly is a free alternative weekly that focuses on local politics and entertainment. This has the best information for dining and entertainment (http://www.bestofneworleans.com). OffBeat, a free monthly music and entertainment magazine focusing on New Orleans and Louisiana musical artists, is found at nightclubs and shops citywide (http://www.offbeat.com). The My New Orleans website is chock- full of options on dining, nightlife, shopping and festivals, and comes equipped with an up-to-date calendar section. http://www.myneworleans.com.

New Orleans magazine also has feature articles on area restaurants, arts events and other news. The company also publishes the upscale St. Charles Avenue, a glossy monthly magazine highlighting Uptown living that is available at local newsstands, businesses and online. http://www.myneworleans.com/St-Charles-Avenue.

The New Orleans Post, run by the World News Network, is an online daily with world and local news coverage using feeds from big media chains such as CNN and The Examiner. http://www.neworleanspost.com.

Also, check "Lagniappe," a section in Friday's edition of The Times-Picayune, for the week's listings of concerts, events, art openings and movie reviews. Where Y'At Magazine is a monthly publication highlighting local music and entertainment that appeals to the younger- than-40 crowd. New Orleans Living is a glossy monthly lifestyle magazine featuring health, business, fashion and entertainment news. http://www.livingneworleans.com.

The New Orleans Tourism Marketing Corporation publishes a free New Orleans visitors guide available online, through the visitor center and by mail. This pocket-sized resource contains coupons, maps, festival information and suggested itineraries. https://www.neworleans.com.

Transportation

Getting around New Orleans is particularly easy when staying in or near downtown. From there, walking is the best way to get to many of the city's main attractions. Those who prefer not to walk can take buses or the streetcar. If you plan to take any day trips outside the city, a car will be necessary. Air

Louis Armstrong Intl (MSY) 900 Airline Dr., Kenner New Orleans, Louisiana 70062 The Louis Armstrong International Airport (MSY) is located about 15 mi/24 km from and serves more than 80% of all Phone: 504-464-0831 passengers flying into the state. It is maintained and operated by The http://www.flymsy.com New Orleans Aviation Board (NOAB). Administrative office hours are Monday-Friday 8 am-5 pm. Fifteen airlines are associated with the Louis Armstrong International Airport that serves 53 nonstop destinations, including seven international destinations. The airport's major infrastructural developments include a 35-gate terminal, live music and local restaurants. When the facility is open for public, all operations are expected to move to the other side of the airport runways. For more information, visit www.flymsy.com.

Security Security screenings and baggage at the Louis Armstrong International Airport are managed by the Transportation Security Administration (TSA). Children less than 18 are not required to provide identification when travelling with a companion within the . However, the TSA requires all passengers older than 18 to produce an approved form of identification and a boarding pass to be able to board a flight or go through a security checkpoint. The TSA approves U.S. or foreign government-issued passports, a U.S. passport card, a driver's license or other state photo identity card issued by the Department of Motor Vehicles, a border crossing card, a Department of Homeland Security Trusted Traveler card or a U.S. Military ID as legitimate and acceptable forms of identification. Visit www.tsa.gov/travel/security- screening/identification for a comprehensive list of acceptable forms of identification.

A quart-sized bag of liquids, aerosols, gels, creams and pastes in carry- on bags is allowed per passenger through the checkpoint. The containers must be 3.4 ounces (100 milliliters) or less per item. Any liquid, aerosol, gel, cream or paste that is flagged during the screening process will have to undergo additional screening.

To get through the security screenings quickly and with ease, apply for TSA PreCheck. Any U.S. citizen and lawful permanent resident can apply for this service for a fee of US$85 for a five-year membership. To learn more, visit www.tsa.gov/tsa-precheck/apply. Additionally, CLEAR Lanes at the airport make use of the passenger's biometrics instead of the traditional IDs to get past the checkpoints with ease. It is available in the centralized security checkpoint providing access to flights from all 15 airlines at MSY.

Items left behind on airport premises (with the exception of the concourse checkpoints which are maintained by the TSA) are retained at the Lost and Found office located on the upper level of the Concourse C lobby near the Airport Police for up to a year. The office is operational Monday-Friday 8 am-5 pm. Contact the Lost and Found office at (504) 303-7790 or fill out a form at www.flymsy.com/lostandfound to claim an item left behind.

Connecting Transportation Taxi services are located on the first level of the terminal outside of baggage claim belts 1 and 14. Rides for up to two passengers from the airport to the Central Business District (CBD) or French Quarter cost US$36.00, with additional US$15.00 for every extra passenger.

Amtrak and Greyhound bus services are located at 1001 Loyola Ave. in New Orleans. Greyhound bus services provide daily trips to and from the airport and to several locations through Baton Rouge and Lafayette. Call 504-525-9371 or visit their official website www.greyhound.com to learn more. A bus stop is located on the outer lanes of the second floor, outside the Concourse C lobby information booth where the Jefferson Transit Authority (JET) and the Regional Transportation Authority (RTA) provide 9 mass transit departures to downtown New Orleans. Shuttle services start from $24.00 per person (one-way) and $44.00 per person (round trip). The fares include 3 bags per person and additional baggage charges may be applicable for more baggage. Passengers can purchase their tickets at the Airport Shuttle ticket booths housed on the first level throughout the Baggage claim area. Call 866-596-2699 for reservations for large groups of fifty or more or if a wheelchair service is required.

The A-Airport Limousine service's kiosks can be found in the Baggage Claim area.

The Louis Armstrong International Airport also houses a rental car facility. It takes a short walk outside of the West Terminal Baggage Claim and proceed right through a covered walkway leading to the customer service building. If in need of special assistance, contact (615) 318-3108. Uber and Lyft can be found outside of the Ground Transportation Center located on the first floor of the Short-Term Parking Garage.

Visit www.flymsy.com/groundtransportation to explore more ground transportation options.

Greyhound 1001 Loyola Ave. Bus service throughout Louisiana and the rest of the U.S. 1001 Loyola New Orleans, Louisiana 70113 Ave., New Orleans. Phone 504-524-7571. Toll-free 800-231-2222. http://www.greyhound.com. Phone: 504-524-7571 http://www.greyhound.com

Megabus New Orleans, Louisiana Offers twice-daily service to Houston, Texas; Mobile and Montgomery, Alabama; and Atlanta, Georgia. Departs from Union Passenger Phone: 515-224-1086 Terminal (UPT), 1001 Loyola Ave., New Orleans. Phone 515-224-1086. http://us.megabus.com Toll-free 877-462-6342. http://us.megabus.com.

If you are arriving in the city by car, Interstate 10 can take you close to anywhere you need to go in the New Orleans area, all the way from eastern New Orleans near the border with Mississippi, through the city and out into the suburbs.

It's usually faster to walk than drive in the city center, especially in the French Quarter's narrow, crowded streets. You can get to most of New Orleans fairly easily without a car, but if you decide to drive, watch out for "No Turn on Red" signs downtown and "No U-Turn" or "No Left Turn" signs anywhere. New Orleans has a large number of red-light and speeding traffic cameras.

Parking tickets are practically guaranteed if you violate local regulations—especially in the French Quarter and the Central Business District. Carry quarters with you, although most parking meters take credit cards. You can also renew your parking space online or by cell phone.

Most car rental agencies have branches at or near the airport, although some have branches in the city itself. Usually car rental agencies require drivers to be older than 25, although some will allow drivers ages 21-24 to rent vehicles. Generally a credit card deposit is required; if you are using a debit card you may be asked to provide proof of bills in good standing or other documentation.

If you have a valid license to drive from your home state or from most countries, you are eligible to drive in Louisiana. If you plan to be there more than 30 days you will need to apply for a Louisiana license. If your country is not a signatory to either the United Nations Convention on Road Traffic or the Convention on the Regulation of Inter-American Motor Vehicle Traffic then you must have an International Driver's Permit, which, along with your license, will allow you to drive in the U.S.

The Canal, Riverfront and St. Charles streetcars are the most popular routes. Dating from 1835, the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line is the oldest operating street railway in the U.S. The Riverfront line runs daily from 7 am until about 10:30 pm, and the St. Charles line runs 24 hours a day, although service is less frequent in the evenings and early morning. The Canal streetcar has two branches; the Cemeteries branch runs 5 am-3 am, and the City Park/Museum runs 7 am-2 am.

The Canal and Riverfront lines use modern red streetcars, but the St. Charles Avenue line uses the historic olive green Perley Thomas streetcars built in in the 1920s. Standard fares are US$1.25—exact change only. Phone 504-248-3900.

Note that the Canal and Riverfront streetcars are accessible to people with disabilities, however the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line is not. The paratransit service offered by the Regional Transit Authority is available as an alternative.

Buses 2817 Canal St. Bus service is extensive around the city—there are more than 80 buses running on 32 different routes. Fares are US$1.25, exact change New Orleans, Louisiana 70119 required. 2817 Canal St., New Orleans. Phone 504-248-3900. Phone: 504-248-3900 http://www.norta.com. http://www.norta.com Cruise ships dock in downtown New Orleans at the Julia Street Wharf, within walking distance of the French Quarter. A number of cruise lines are home-ported in New Orleans and make regular trips to the Caribbean and Mexico. Calling ahead is advised, but taxis can be hailed on the street in the busy areas, and they use meters. But be aware that if your destination is too far beyond the city center, the driver may tell you he doesn't know where you're going (he probably does know where you're going, but he doesn't want to take you there because he likely won't get a return fare). You shouldn't have any problem finding a taxi near major attractions and hotels. If the driver says he doesn't know your destination, ask the hotel staff to give directions.

Locals know to call United Cabs. The company is reliable, economical and has knowledgeable drivers. Phone 504-522-9771 or 504-524- 9606. http://www.unitedcabs.com.

Amtrak 1001 Loyola Ave. The daily 19-hour trip aboard The City of New Orleans runs between New Orleans, Louisiana 70113 New Orleans and Chicago, including stops in Jackson, Mississippi, and Memphis, Tennessee. A 30-hour daily trip on The Crescent links New Phone: 504-528-1614 Orleans and , with stops in Virginia, , North http://www.amtrak.com and South Carolina, Georgia, Alabama and Mississippi. A two-day (48- hour) cross-country trip links New Orleans to Los Angeles three times a week. Climb aboard The Crescent to visit Texas, New Mexico, Arizona or California. Daily 5 am-10 pm. 1001 Loyola Ave., New Orleans. Phone 504-528-1614. Toll-free 800-872-7245. http://www.amtrak.com.

For More Information

Convention & Visitors Bureau

New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau 2020 St. Charles Ave. Provides information to groups and meeting planners on the city and its New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 activities. 2020 St. Charles Ave., New Orleans. Phone 504-566-5011. Toll-free 800-672-6124. http://www.neworleanscvb.com. Phone: 504-566-5011 http://www.neworleanscvb.com

State of Louisiana 529 St. Ann St. The state of Louisiana has a helpful office on Jackson Square. 529 St. Ann St., New Orleans. Phone 504-568-5661. New Orleans, Louisiana 70116 http://www.louisianatravel.com. Phone: 504-568-5661 http://www.louisianatravel.com

The New Orleans Tourism Marketing Corporation 2020 St. Charles Ave. New Orleans' official tourism website. This site offers hotel and tour bookings throughout the city, as well as a wealth of information about New Orleans, Louisiana 70130 anything and everything related to New Orleans. 2020 St. Charles Ave., Phone: 504-566-5003 New Orleans. Phone 504-566-5003. Toll-free 800-672-6124. https://www.neworleans.com https://www.neworleans.com.

EVENTS

Calendar New Orleans offers ample opportunities for revelry—even beyond its fabled Mardi Gras. Year-round, visitors can luxuriate in spicy Cajun and Creole cooking and great jazz, and there always seems to be some sort of festival going on, in addition to concerts, opera and theater.

For detailed information about upcoming events in the New Orleans area, contact the New Orleans Convention and Visitors Bureau. Phone 504-566-5011. Toll-free 800-672-6124. http://www.neworleanscvb.com.

Alternatively, check out New Orleans Tourism Marketing Corporation's website at http://www.neworleansonline.com.

To call any of the phone numbers listed in this calendar from outside the U.S. or Canada, you must first dial your country's international access code, followed by the U.S. country code, 1.

Information in this calendar is subject to change and should be confirmed.

May

31 May—Memorial Day Public holiday.

25 Dec—Christmas Public holiday.