Japanese 100 Great Mountains Vol.3: Episode 011-015

Japanese 100 Great Mountains Vol.3: Episode 011-015 Originally written in Japanese and translated by Hodaka Photographs by Hodaka Cover design by Tanya Copyright © 2018 Hodaka / The BBB: Breakthrough Bandwagon Books All rights reserved. ISBN: 978-0-359-12577-7 The BBB website http://thebbb.net/ Hodaka Author Page http://thebbb.net/cast/hodaka.html Episode 011: Mount Daibosatsu Mount Daibosatsu with an altitude of 2,057 meters, one of Japanese 100 Great Mountains, is located in Yamanashi Prefecture. So, it is easy to access from Tokyo. The mountain is known for its magnificent view of Mount Fuji. This is my third time to climb the mountain. At the first and second visits, I couldn’t see Mount Fuji clearly due to thick clouds. But this time, on a fine day in February (2018), I can finally see a satisfying scenery. Its snow-covered summit, unique to winter, pleases my eyes. Originally, I planned to go by car to the Kaminikkawa Pass near the summit from the Daibosatsu Pass starting point. But the road was closed during the winter. So, I had changed the plan and decided to choose the route via the Marukawa Pass to the summit. When I arrive there at around 6 am, a few vehicles have already parked. Before the departure, I have talked with the driver of the car arriving right after me about today’s weather and the course we choose. Then, we proceed to the different courses. I am walking through a forest zone with a relatively steep slope for a while. I can gain altitude steadily because there is no snow around the area. The snow gradually appears in the mountain path. Since some parts of the road is frozen, I have to step forward with care. After walking about two hours, I get to the Marukawa Pass, where I equip myself with crampons in a lodge named Marukawa-so. Other climbers are doing the same thing. It seems that it would be difficult for us to keep climbing without crampons. But we can climb safely even on a snowy slope with crampons. The route is easy to recognize and I can see the trace clearly. I’m climbing on the snowy slope for about one and a half hours. While walking, I don’t feel cold. But once I take a rest, my body is getting cold in a moment. The plastic bottle of hot drink is almost frozen. When I’m getting tired of the snow road, the sky opens and I have arrived at the summit of Mount Daibosatsu. Despite the summit, its visibility is too poor because of the forest zone surrounding it. I just take some pictures and head for a place called Kaminari-iwa (meaning thunderstone), which is a 10-minute walk from the summit. The view of Mount Fuji and the Southern Alps from the point is awesome. Mount Fuji is the most clearly visible among my experiences to climb Mount Daibosastu and the snow-covered Southern Alps looks very close over the Kohfu basin. The Kaminari-iwa can be written with the kanji characters indicating it is a godlike rock. Ancient people once regarded it as a rock connecting to a god and seemed to pray for rain here. Also, it is said that the name derived from the fact that it is a path for thunderclouds. Then, the walking on the ridge line from here to the Daibosatsu Pass is attractive enough to be considered the highlight of the climbing Mount Daibosatsu. If the weather permits, you can walk comfortably on a gentle slope while seeing Mount Fuji and the Southern Alps. There is a big sign in the Daibosatsu Pass and a mountain hut called Kaizan-so, which is suitable for you to take a rest because it has a fine view. In the Edo era, the Daibosatsu Pass was historic spot and once known as a dangerous place between Tokyo and Yamanashi Prefectures. The snow is decreased beyond the summit. So, I have to be careful while walking on rocky stretches with crampons. It ends up consuming much time. When I’m taking off my crampons, a climber coming from the other side is speaking to me. We have exchanged information with each other about the snow conditions in the mountain paths we have been climbing. The mountain hut is closed in February when I’m climbing this time. But I had a chance to talk with the owner of Kaizan-so at the Daibosatsu Pass when I visited it last October (2017). At the time, I originally planned to meet the man from Yamaguchi Prefecture (refer to Episode 004) again, whom I had met before in Mount Amagi, but he couldn’t come because of a typhoon approaching back then. Since I had already made a plan, I climbed the mountain soon after the typhoon had passed. The sky was not as clear as I expected, though. At the visit, I came by car to the Kaminikkawa Pass and arrived at the Daibosatsu Pass in the early morning. The owner of the mountain hut pointed in the direction of Tokyo and said, "If the weather permits, you can see the Tokyo Skytree in the morning." This time, although it is before the sky is getting bright, I can barely see the Skytree and take pictures of it with a telephoto lens. Also, the owner said to me, “The night view of the Kohfu Basin is really great, so I would like you to stay here someday in the future.” I think I will stay at this Kaizan-so at the fourth time. Souvenirs are sold here and you can enjoy only by looking them. I have bought a shop curtain (or “Noren” in Japanese), printing all the names of Japanese 100 Great Mountains on it. In fact, I buy the pin badge of the mountain each time I climb one of the 100 mountains. I plan to attach the pin badges at each mountain name of the shop curtain. I’m really looking forward to seeing the shop curtain with all the pin badges when I complete Japanese 100 Great Mountains. I have descended to the Kaminikkawa Pass and found the snow is so heavy that it would be difficult to come here by car. I need another hour to return to the Marukawa Pass to pick up my own vehicle. I dare not to put on the crampons because I think I don’t need that. But the mountain path is frozen with still-remaining snow, which makes me slipper and fall several times. After climbing down the mountain, I feel hungry and plan to eat Hoto (specialty in Yamanashi Prefecture). It is a regional dish in which thick and long noodles are simmered with vegetables such as pumpkin, with meat, and with miso. I search the Internet for a famous restaurant specializing in Hoto and find out that it would take more than 30 minutes by car. As I head for it anyway, I fortunately notice a restaurant with the sign of Hoto beside a bus top, which is also a starting point of the Daibosatsu Pass. Since I want to eat it soon, I enter the restaurant and am warmly welcomed by an open-hearted proprietress. Several guests seem to have just climbed down the mountain, so I enjoy talking with them about mountains. The homely atmosphere makes me feel relaxed. The plenty of well-simmered vegetables in the Hoto matches the miso taste very well. I eat it up quickly and my cold body is warmed. After that, I head for a hot spring called “Daibosatsu-no-Yu”, which is a few minutes drive from the restaurant. The hot spring features its globally rare, highest level of alkaline. The slimy hot water is soft and comfortable and gets rid of my fatigue. I think regional dishes and hot springs are the best match, so I would like to savor it in and around the mountains where I will visit in the future. Episode 012: Mount Kirigamine I frequently checked the weather forecast these days because I wanted to climb snow-covered Mount Tanigawa (or Tanigawa-dake in Japanese). After we had rainy days at the end of March (2018), they said we would finally have a good weather in a few days. So, I decided to go to the mountain on the day. The forecast in the morning said it would be sunny in Gunma Prefecture, where Mount Tanigawa belongs. On the other hand, a website specializing in mountain weather said we would have an inclement weather at Mount Tanigawa. I knew mountain weather is easily changeable, so I had decided to head for it anyway, expecting the weather to improve. Generally, many mountaineers use the ropeway to get to Tenjindaira and reach the summit after climbing for about two and a half hours. While driving to the mountain, the weather was fine. But it was snowing when I arrived at the ropeway station and the vision was so white that I couldn’t see anything beyond that. According to the forecast, the weather wouldn’t improve until the afternoon. I thought I had to give up this time. Getting back to Tokyo by car, I ate chocolate that I had bought as high-energy food. But the blue sky in the direction of Tokyo urged me to climb a mountain. I checked the forecast again and found the weather in the direction of Yatsugatake Mountains was stable. It seemed that I could manage to climb Mount Kirigamine because it was considered the mountain that you need to the shortest time to climb among Japanese 100 Great Mountains.

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