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Musings on the Vine

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Musings on the Vine Musings on the Vine A Collection of Thoughts, Suggestions and Opinions about Wine February 21, 2005 Volume 4, No. 1 Featured Region: Veneto The Veneto is a powerhouse region in the northeast corner of Italy that has a long history of wine making stretching back to the Middle Ages. In conjunction with its neighbors Trentino-Alta Adige and Friuli-Venezia Giulia, the Veneto makes up the larger Tre Venezie area. The Veneto is Wine fads… Let’s see, I’ve noteworthy for many reasons. First, in 2001, the region was the single lived through White Zinfandel greatest producer of DOC wines in Italy and in the same year, the Veneto (too young to thankfully care 1 about wine during this was tied with Sicily for second place in overall production. Second, some of debacle), then there was the most popular and well-known wines consumed in the US are from the Chardonnay, followed closely Veneto. (Can you say Soave, Valpolicella or Bardolino? If you’ve ever had by Merlot. Yes, yes, Cabernet popped up for a while, but a wine by Bolla, then the answer is emphatically yes!) Third, the Veneto is a mostly in the “California Cult” tremendous value leader in Italian wine. area (too expensive to become a wine fad, really). Now it’s Like the Bordeaux region of France, the proximity of the Veneto to the port time for Syrah. Sure, I should city of Venice and its lucrative trade routes is a primary reason why the be thrilled. One of my all time Veneto is so well known with such prodigious productivity. Some argue that favorite grapes is going to the the overly large DOC zones that account for much of this production “Show!” Well, let me tell you what happens to grapes that fall compromise the overall quality of the region and in the ‘60’s, ‘70’s and even prey to wine fads: they become early ‘80’s this was true. Like most Italian wine during that period the focus over-produced, insipid and they was on quantity and not quality. During the ‘90’s and into today, a renewed lose most, if not all of their focus on quality has brought about wonderful changes in once thought of varietal character. The grapes “plonk” zones like the Veneto. go into wine that becomes a homogenous blend designed to The geography and climate of the Veneto are variable, which accounts for offend no one and please everyone. Prices for wine fad the broad stylistic differences in the wines produced there. Most of the wines wines also tend to do funny possess great structure and crisp acidity, combined with wonderful balance things too, like go up for no and complexity. I like to remark that there is a style of wine for every taste in explicable reason. So, while a the Veneto. part of me is tickled that Syrah is slated as the next wine fad, All manner of wine is produced in the Veneto – red, white, rosé, sparkling part of me is bracing for the onslaught of infinitely and sweet. In terms of the Italian quality hierarchy, the Veneto has three dismissible Syrah that is going DOCG (highest quality) wines and nineteen DOC (second-tier) wines. The to start showing up everywhere, wines considered DOCG are: Soave Classico, Bardolino Classico and from countries and regions that Recioto di Soave (a sweet, dessert-like wine). Of the nineteen DOC wines, would not have known Syrah if it bit them you know where. the following are considered the most important: Valpolicella, Amarone and Don’t say I didn’t warn you… Prosecco di Conegliano. In addition to the DOCG and DOC designations there are a few terms worth considering. Cheers! Paul & Betsy © 2005 by Paul J. Malagrifa All rights reserved. No part of this newsletter may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means electronic or mechanical without permission of the author. Page 2 of 9 Musings on the Vine Classico – Generally refers to a sub-region of vineyards within a larger delimited zone that often connotes higher quality. Superiore – Generally refers to a wine that is higher in percent alcohol and has received longer aging prior to release. Recioto – A process whereby the best grapes are harvested and left on specially constructed lath frames to dry and thereby concentrate the sugar in the grape. The “raisinated” grapes are then pressed and partially fermented. The resulting wines are sweet and in some cases “Anyone who know his sparkling. history... must surely Ripasso – A process whereby the standard Valpolicella wines are know his wines.” “poured over” and aged on the lees of Amarone wines. Amarone wines are wines made in a style similar to Recioto wines, except the - Arnold Toynbee fermentation is carried all the way through to complete dryness. Amarone is often very full-bodied with alcohol nudging 15% by volume. Aging standard Valopicella on Amarone lees imparts more body, some alcohol and greater complexity to the lesser Valpolicella. These terms can appear on a label in conjunction with the DOCG or DOC name. For instance, Valpolicella Classico Superiore is generally considered to be the highest expression of the Valpolicella wine. The Veneto has a broad palate of grapes used to produce its wines. The most notable whites are: Garganega (used to make Soave), Prosecco (used to make Prosecco di Conegliano), Tocai, Verduzzo, Trebbiano di Soave, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco. The most notable reds are: Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara (these three grapes are blended to make Valpolicella, Amarone and Bardolino), Raboso, Negrara, Merlot, Pinot Nero and Cabernet Sauvignon. As I indicated earlier, the Veneto is a real value leader in Italian wine. Many of the best wines are still modestly priced at less than $20 per bottle, with a great many available for less than $15 per bottle. Soave, a white wine that was usually insipid and bland during most of the 70’s and early 80’s, is seeing a rebirth, with many versions exhibiting great complexity, some even being called “age-worthy”. One wine that I find a particularly good value is Valpolicella Vino di Ripasso. The wines are rarely considered expensive, yet the additional aging on the Amarone lees produces an often hearty, complex wine with great aging potential. The following are a few wines from Veneto that I thought were worth mentioning: 1 Stevenson, The New Sotheby’s Wine Encyclopedia, 3rd Edition (New York: DK Publishing, 2001) & Society of Wine Educators, Certified Specialist of Wine Study Guide (Washington, DC, 2003) © 2005 by Paul J. Malagrifa All rights reserved. No part of this newsletter may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means electronic or mechanical without permission of the author. Page 3 of 9 Musings on the Vine 2001 Inama “Vignetti Foscarino”, Soave Classico, Italy 12.5% ($19.99/bottle) Soft nose with hints of honey, vanilla and melon – slightly perfumed. Light- bodied with moderate acidity – crisp. Good balance with nice structure. Fruit mixed with oak on the palate, lemon and citrus mixed with traces of butterscotch and vanilla. Moderate length with a moderately complex aftertaste – echoes of oak. Drinking well now – will not improve with age. A denser style of Soave. A little expensive. 2001 Michele Castellani “Colle Olivi”, Soave Classico, “Apart from its Italy 12% ($9.99/bottle) elusive bouquet Soft nose with citrus, apple and mineral hints. Light-bodied with moderate and complex acidity. Good balance with tart, green apple fruit and light caramel hints – aroma, a great pretty and soft. Short finish, although there is a persistent apple note on the wine presents to aftertaste. Not for aging – drink now. Very good value. the eye joy of colour, and through the sense of touch, flatters the palate and throat, not only 2003 Pieropan, Soave Classico, Italy 12% ($16.99/bottle) with a freshing Beautifully perfumed nose with loads of lemon, honey and apple aromas. sense of coolness Light-bodied with moderate acidity. Good balance – soft. Lemon and and grateful citrus on the palate with hints of caramel and green apple – very pleasant. feeling of Moderate length with persistent citrus aftertaste – not tart. Drinking well satisfaction...but now – not for aging. Good value considering the quality. with the incomparable softness of its velvety texture.” 2001 Gerardo Cesari “Mara”, Vino di Ripasso, – H. Warner Allen Valpolicella Classico Superiore 13.5% ($14.99/bottle) Dried cherry hints on a somewhat restrained nose. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity and firm tannins. Well-balanced with a dark core of fruit: cherry, leather and black pepper notes. Smooth with moderate length. Restrained aftertaste with some blackberry hints. Judging by the restrained nature of the wine, some bottle aging is in order. Should improve over the next 3 to 4 years. Good value. © 2005 by Paul J. Malagrifa All rights reserved. No part of this newsletter may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means electronic or mechanical without permission of the author. Page 4 of 9 Musings on the Vine 2000 Zenato “Ripassa”, Vino di Ripasso, Valpolicella Superiore 13% ($19.99/bottle) Sweet spicy nose with fresh cherry and floral aromas. Subtle traces of raisins on the nose. Medium-bodied with moderate acidity and firm but yielding tannin. Smooth and well balanced. Cherry, strawberry, mocha and fig notes. Dense fruit core with super intensity. Lingering "sweet" aftertaste with complex berry, chocolate and coffee finish. Good value. The wine should improve over the next 2 to 3 years. 2000 Allegrini “Palazzo Della Torre”, Valpolicella, IGT 13.5% ($19.99/bottle) Rich, lush nose with blackberry, black cherry and hints of dried herbs and minerals.
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