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Home , Carso DOC, Oenology, Picolit, Ramandolo, Talento

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A journey to Friuli Venezia Giulia

A mosaic of languages (Italian, Friulian, Slovenian, By Isabel Ferran German), gastronomy (Mitteleuropean, Venetian and Slavic) and viticultural traditions in a tiny region with a rich history.

riuli Venezia Giulia is situated on ’s north-eastern border with Slovenia and Austria, adjoining the Veneto region in Fthe south and facing the Adriatic Sea. The area is A with an international Master’s degree MSc in very diverse from a geological perspective but its and from Montpellier, geographical location (on the 46th north parallel) Isabel is a consultant to in Spain, France and Italy on a ensures protection from the northerly winds by the technical and commercial basis. mountains (pre-Alps and Alps) and mild temperatures Passionate about Italian , due to the nearby Adriatic Sea (average temperature she joined the Gilbert & Gaillard team in October 2014 with 12.5°C, important day and night variations). It has the aim of further expanding the highest rainfall in Italy, ranging from 1,500 to the Italian market. 2,000mm depending on the area. Several appellations span the region, from the coastal areas (Friuli Latisana, Friuli Annia, Friuli Aquileia), the alluvial plains (Friuli Grave, Friuli Isonzo), the hillsides (Collio and Friuli Collio Orientali), and the limestone plateau of Carso. Colli Orientali include three special areas boasting DOCG status: Picolit, Ramandolo and Rosazzo. Two intra-regional appellations are also produced: Lison Pramaggiore (mostly in Veneto) and . © All R i g hts eser v ed

Aerial view of the property Zorzettig Cavalier Giuseppe in Spessa di Cividale, in Colli Orientali del Friuli

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A mosaic of viticultural traditions as reflected in the range of training systems

FRIULI GRAVE DOC The range comprises a 24 month-aged Ribolla Gialla Ronco Vieri; cuvee Argento, a 30 month-aged blend of Situated in the provinces of Pordenone and Udine, the DOC and ; cuvee Pink, a 24 month-aged blended is formed geologically by alluvial deposits from rivers, carrying from Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir; loose gravely soils, which allow for deep rooting and are poor in and Millesime 2007, a 100% Chardonnay with 6 years lees organic matter (magredi). The appellation accounts for half of ageing, showing a complex bouquet of toasted nuts, citrus the total wine production in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. and yellow flowers, with a creamy and fresh mouthfeel and long persistence.

VIGNETI PITTARO A talent for ‘’ and a must-visit wine museum FRIULI ISONZO DOC Piero Pittaro has gradually grown his since the 1970s and now produces a large portfolio of wine styles. Situated in Gorizia province, the river Isonzo outlines a His passion for the arts began a long time ago and his personal plateau that slopes gently downwards towards the Adriatic collection is exhibited in his museum which is definitely from the Collio and Carso hills. The soils are young and worth visiting, not only for its precious pieces of artwork but unspoiled with excellent drainage, separated into two sub also for the tribute to crafts related to wine production. areas: the Rive Alte to the north, with its rich red clay mixed Vignetti Pittaro produces high quality sparkling wines with limestone gravel, and the Rive di Giare to the south, labelled ‘Talento’, an Italian name for with its white limestone gravel mixed with sand. sparkling wines aged on the lees for at least 15 months.

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along with fermentation for Vitovska and , fermented with natural and using a small amount of sulphur just before bottling. The face the Gulf of Trieste. Zidarich wines are savoury and salty with very persistent aromas. Vitovska offers up wet stone and smoky mineral undertones with citrus and balsamic scents. Malvasia is richer on the palate and aromas are marked by in syrup and apricot. He produces two red wines: , an unusual native Carso , and Ruje, a blend of and Terrano, with a more international profile. © All R i g hts eser v ed Gianfranco Gallo has been technical manager since 1978 at Vie di Romans in FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI Mariano del Friuli, in the Isonzo del Friuli appellation The area under this appellation slots into the north-eastern hills of the province of Udine, encompassing a total of 15 VIE DI ROMANS localities and an area of 2,000 ha. The main city is Cividale Sense of place del Friuli, a beautiful medieval village founded by Julius Gianfranco Gallo is one of the best interpreters of Friuli Cesar. The soil type is flysch rock as in Collio but the wines with an in-depth knowledge of pedo-climatology. diversity of creates several sub-zones and He produces wine respecting what nature can offer in this wine types. Ramandolo and Picolit are unique sweet dessert area, not forcing wines to be what they are not, but wines that are produced only in this area and have a explaining to consumers their particular characteristics. long-standing tradition. Ramandolo DOCG is produced in Single- wines are released 2 years after the . a tiny pocket, on the hill between the villages of Nimis and A comparative tasting of Sauvignon Piere 2012 (fresh, exotic and floral) and Vieris Sauvignon 2012 (rich, citrus and smoky Tarcento from , exuding balsamic honey notes), then Chardonnay Ciampagnis Vieris 2012 (upright and nut scents. Picolit DOCG is produced from Picolit vines with hay and herbs) and Vie di Romans (elegant and that naturally produce very low yields (due to faulty persistent with yellow plum, flowers, vanilla) was amazing. pollination) and offer up naturally high acidity that balances The 1996 Pinot Grigio expressed a true sense of place with the high concentration in the grapes. It can be produced subtle smoky, mushroom notes, under lime tree honey and in the provinces of both Udine and Gorizia. thyme aromas, and a pronounced structure on the palate. Another recently created sub-zone, which also enjoys long-standing recognition for its high quality wines, is the CARSO DOC Rosazzo DOCG, produced as a white blend (Friulano, Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Ribolla). Livio Felluga produces Benjamin Zidarich two labels: the iconic Terre Alte and Abbazia di Rosazzo. A sustainable ‘cave’ winery In fact, since 2009 the company manages the vineyards The winery is carved out of the karst rock, 22m deep with around Rosazzo Abbey and barrel ageing takes place in the 5 levels, reducing energy consumption through natural ancient cellar beneath it. Terre Alte 2013 is highly expressive, ventilation and a temperature of 13°C. Fermentation with vanilla and lemon curd scents, whilst Abbazia di takes place in both stone vats and large barrels, always Rosazzo 2012 shows nice minerality, floral notes, nuts, using natural materials. For Benjamin, the skin is at rhubarb and long persistency. the heart of the wine and he conducts 20 days of Rainfall in the region is such that only a handful of

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vineyards in the region - its fantastic is planted 330m above sea level. Its range of wines differentiates between the youngest vineyards (under the ‘At’ label), the growths and single-vineyard wines. Oasi 2012 is a dry from Picolit grapes. It is unique and savoury, initially conjuring up a sensation of sweetness but finishing on a very clean note with a well-integrated tannic texture. Sauvignon Vit di Maz 2008 displayed no oxidised aromas but rather lime tree, acacia, and smoky scents. Solsire 2011 (Re- fosco, Merlot) is a barrel selection, with excellent fine-grai- ned tannins, violet, spices and cocoa. It is an elegant exam- ple of a generally rustic variety. The southern part of Colli Orientali is especially suitable for red varieties, the native cultivars being del Pedunculo Rosso, Schiopettino and Pignolo. Young winemaker Gabriele Tami works in the Aquila del Torre cellar and also at his small 10ha family winery in Buttrio. Vini Tami has a long history: grandfather Guido graduated from School in 1928 and the family was lucky enough to inherit a Verduzzo vineyard in Nimis allowing them to produce a © All R i g hts eser v ed

© All R i g hts eser v ed delicious Ramandolo. Merlot Riserva 2011 offers a complex nose of black fruits (cassis), slate and ferrous aromas, with fine tannins and a distinctive spicy finish (black pepper).

Annalisa Zorzettig, from Zorzettig Cavalier Giuseppe, manages 120ha of vineyards, both on the valley floor and on hillside sites, offering a wide range of wine types and qualities. Basic wines are still sold in bulk to a local and loyal clientele. The Myò range, inspired by the first Friulian poem dating back to 1380, defends the native varieties © All R i g hts eser v ed planted in Spessa vineyards, a metaphor represented on the TERRA ROSSA CARSO label by local animal species preserved in a . Two Malvasia Istriana vines on a thin layer very different red wines are the Schiopettino 2010 - fresh, of red clay soil over karstic rock, above medium-bodied and fruity - and Pignolo 2009, with the incredible underground cellar concentrated body and a profound nose of roasted aromas (coffee) and pine resin counterbalanced by nice acidity. producers are certified organic. For Michele Ciani the choice came naturally due to the optimum , covering Dottore Schiratti and winemaker Emilio Lara organised an three hills with forests on the northern face creating incredible guided tasting for us at Ronc Soreli comparing a diverse ecosystem. Biodynamic viticultural techniques 2012 and 2013 of Friulano and Sauvignon, a are also being used. Aquila del Torre is one of the highest macerated copper-coloured Pinot Grigio, a Botrytized

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has passed on his passion for experimentation in the cellar where we had the chance to taste many experimental wines made using innovative wine making techniques and a range of barrel sizes and types. The 2004 Cantarato growth, a 100% from an array of vineyards with differing microclimates and vine ages, which is produced only in great years, was extraordinary for its complex bouquet, elegance and purity. Refosco 2009 has more marked tannins balanced by a fleshy body of blackberries and plum, enriched by spicy notes. © All R i g hts eser v ed AnnaLisa Zorzettig, daughter of Cavalier Giuseppe Zorzettig, is proud of preserving native Friulian grape varieties

Friulano ‘Otto Lustri’ obtained only in certain vintages, finishing off with two red wines: Schiopettino di Prepotto 2009 and Rosso Ré 2008. Rosso Ré is a remarkable red blend showing cedar bark and green pepper notes on the nose with a powerful tannic texture on the palate. Old vines and careful work in the vineyards and cellar result in wines with A clear example of flysch rock great personality, respecting both the local site and or “ponca” in Friulian in the “MandiTocai” vineyard conditions.

Rodolfo Ceccotti, grandson of Alfieri Cantarruti, confirms INSIGHT INTO COLLIO WINES that quality white wines can be produced in every vintage Great whites from Gorizia province but not quality reds, despite the firm’s expertise. His father Collio is one of the oldest Italian appellations – it recently celebrated its 50th anniversary – and as the name implies, vineyard plantings are only allowed on hillsides. ‘Ponca’ is the Friulian name for the area’s sandy marl rock, a very ancient soil from the Eocene epoch produced by sedimentation rocks originally at the bottom of the sea that were compacted and brought to the surface by the formation of the Alps. The soil accumulates deposits enriching its mineral composition (lime, potassium, phosphorous, silica). Slopes with inclines ranging from 15 to 30% require hard manual labour in the vineyard, increasing production costs.

Hillside vineyards at RoncSoreli winery, a fine producer of Schiopettino di Prepotto in Colli Orientali © All R i g hts eser v ed 72 GILBERT & GAILLARD SPRING 2015

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For still wines, since the 1980s, the firm has dramatically reduced barrel ageing, i.e. Broy Collio Bianco since the 2008 vintage. This great white wine undergoes a special process of fruit concentration. Luigi Collavini welcomed us with a vertical tasting of Broy 2008, 2010 and 2011.

© All R i g hts eser v ed Actually, the 2008 vintage presented no oak influence or over-rich mouthfeel, but a persistent mineral and aromatic © All R i g hts eser v ed herb scent melded with peaches in syrup and mango. Ruttars hill with the Julian Alps in the background facing this unique Pignolo 2006 Colli Orientali del Friuli is a recently-released “Braide Alte” growth elegant , sourced from a plot near Rosazzo Abbey with a very complex nose (liquorice, dried plum, cigar and

Collio producers come together under the dynamic cocoa), medium body and fine but present tannins. ‘Consortium’ that markets the area with a single voice and has even created a specific glass bottle. As a small, high quality area, the aim is to let sense of place show through, as in Collio Bianco, a white gastronomic wine whose natural freshness is balanced by a rich, fleshy body. The aromatic spectrum is broad-ranging, revealing notes of flowers and yellow fruits, herbs (fennel), almonds and a flinty mineral note. Collio Bianco producers include Edi Keber, Ronco Blanchis, Venica, Ronco dei Tassi, Livon, Collavini and Gradis’ciutta. For Pinot Grigio Collio DOC we selected: Villa Russiz, Toros, Carlo di Pradis, Marco Felluga and Primosic.

LIVON Livon has a large portfolio of excellent wines including properties in Umbria and . Valneo Livon has

expertise in oak selection, choosing different seasonings and © All R i g hts eser v ed oak origins from prestigious European regions. Enter the Vineyards below Count Theodor barrel room with closed eyes and you will soak up perfumes of de Latour mausoleum planted peach, acacia honey, vanilla and yellow flowers. Walk out to Merlot vines brought from on the terrace above the Braide Alte vineyards facing the France 150 years ago Slovenian border, and you will see grape varieties including Chardonnay, Picolit, Sauvignon and . VILLA RUSSIZ The charm of the place and the beautiful story and COLLAVINI 1896 philosophy behind the property has captured many hearts; Manlio Collavini is a very innovative wine producer. Many years ago, he experimented with both the Charmat and I could not help but be touched by their wines. Since 2009, classic method, deciding to place autoclave tanks Villa Russiz has been a foundation whose profits cover horizontally and extending the ageing time to 24 months, living costs for children in need who live in the property’s the key to Ribolla Gialla’s success. After 25 years, the Family House. The entire team shows a commitment to the company re-launched its classic method, Applause 2009, one project. Giordano Figheli, together with young of the top Italian sparkling wines. Giovanni and Peter, share a great passion for wine and

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meticulous attention to detail. the 50ha vineyard is divided into many plots with different aspects, clones and grape varieties, allowing them to produce a diverse range of wines. riserva wines undergo a lengthy ageing period, both in barrel and bottle, before being released for sale. Among the special wines from the portfolio are the excellent selection ‘Sauvignon bleu’ in rhine-style bottle as is traditional in the area and a limited edition requested by the hermitage museum for its 250th anniversary. Sauvignon de La Tour 1993 Collio doC was chosen as the best Friuli wine of the 20th century.

PICECH Roberto and Alessia are a young, passionate and welcoming couple in Pradis (paradise). Jelka (the matriarch), Athenea (the daughter) and Ruben (the son) are the 3 other names © All R i g hts eser v ed representing the 9ha family-run winery. Although 80% of production is white, Roberto is especially proud of their Robert Princic, winemaker of Gradis’ciutta winery in San red wines. Malvasia Istriana 2013 has a flavour combining Floriano del Collio and president exotic fruit (mango) and walnuts, with a salty finish. Jelka of Collio Consortium is a traditional Collio Bianco from Ribolla Gialla, Friulano and Malvasia, fermented on the skins with native yeasts and ensure skin ripeness and there is no no temperature control, aged in large barrels and Slovenian or barrel ageing. Gradius’ciutta wines are very precise, casks for 18 months. Vintage 2004 has a complex nose, a elegant and mineral, respecting vintage characteristics. surprising mouth structure and long persistence. Athenea is Bràtinis 2007 Collio Bianco DOC is very expressive with produced only in magnum bottles; it is a macerated Tocai, mature and exotic fruits, impeccably balanced acidity and expressing meadow flowers, lime tree and balsamic body. Bràtinis 2010 is very fresh with flint and smoky freshness. notes, along with lychee and watermelon. Collio Bianco Their close neighbours, David and Boris Buzzinelli from Riserva 2009, which is unique in that it spends 10 months Carlo di Pradis, have also explored maceration for white in oak barrels, is very structured yet supple, showing lengthy wines with good results, producing Scusse, the Friulian name cellaring potential. for grape skins, the key to which is ripe, healthy grapes. A visit to the Cantina Sociale Cormons was extremely Innovation and inquisitiveness amongst wine producers are informative. The winery brings together many grape growing pivotal to Collio’s success. families in the town. Dottore Rizzi is the director and winemaker and his commercial strategy revolves around GRADIS’CIUTTA increasing wine tourism in the area to allow people to It has been documented that the Princics were producing discover the region and boost its local economy. The winery wine in 1780 in Kozana (Slovenia), across the border from produces Collio DOC, Friuli Isonzo DOC and sparkling San Floriano del Collio. Robert Princic and his parents have wines, selling 20% directly to consumers and through large increased their property progressively, based on long-term retailers. So why not follow Dottore Rizzi’s advice and come decisions and investments. The grapes are late-harvested to discover the world of Friuli.

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