A Journey to Friuli Venezia Giulia
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QUALITY FACTORS A journey to Friuli Venezia Giulia A mosaic of languages (Italian, Friulian, Slovenian, BY ISABEL FERRAN German), gastronomy (Mitteleuropean, Venetian and Slavic) and viticultural traditions in a tiny region with a rich history. riuli Venezia Giulia is situated on Italy’s north-eastern border with Slovenia and Austria, adjoining the Veneto region in Fthe south and facing the Adriatic Sea. The area is A winemaker with an international Master’s degree MSc in viticulture very diverse from a geological perspective but its and oenology from Montpellier, geographical location (on the 46th north parallel) Isabel is a consultant to wineries in Spain, France and Italy on a ensures protection from the northerly winds by the technical and commercial basis. mountains (pre-Alps and Alps) and mild temperatures Passionate about Italian wines, due to the nearby Adriatic Sea (average temperature she joined the Gilbert & Gaillard team in October 2014 with 12.5°C, important day and night variations). It has the aim of further expanding the highest rainfall in Italy, ranging from 1,500 to the Italian market. 2,000mm depending on the area. Several wine appellations span the region, from the coastal areas (Friuli Latisana, Friuli Annia, Friuli Aquileia), the alluvial plains (Friuli Grave, Friuli Isonzo), the hillsides (Collio and Friuli Collio Orientali), and the limestone plateau of Carso. Colli Orientali include three special areas boasting DOCG status: Picolit, Ramandolo and Rosazzo. Two intra-regional appellations are also produced: Lison Pramaggiore (mostly in Veneto) and ED Prosecco. V ESER R HTS G I R © ALL AERIAL VIEW OF THE PROPERTY ZORZETTIG CavaLIER GIUSEPPE IN SPESSA DI CIVIDALE, IN COLLI ORIENTALI DEL FRIULI 68 GILBERT & GAILLARD SPRING 2015 Mag20-G&G-pg68-75.indd 2 17/04/15 15:55:28 A journey to Friuli Venezia Giulia ED ED V V ESER ESER R R HTS HTS G G I I R R ED ED V V © ALL © ALL ESER ESER R R HTS HTS G G I I R R © ALL © ALL A MOSAIC OF VITICULTURAL TRADITIONS AS REFLECTED IN THE RANGE OF TRAINING SYSTEMS FRIULI GRAVE DOC The range comprises a 24 month-aged Ribolla Gialla Ronco Vieri; cuvee Argento, a 30 month-aged blend of Chardonnay Situated in the provinces of Pordenone and Udine, the DOC and Pinot Noir; cuvee Pink, a 24 month-aged rosé blended is formed geologically by alluvial deposits from rivers, carrying from Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir; loose gravely soils, which allow for deep rooting and are poor in and Millesime 2007, a 100% Chardonnay with 6 years lees organic matter (magredi). The appellation accounts for half of ageing, showing a complex bouquet of toasted nuts, citrus the total wine production in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. and yellow flowers, with a creamy and fresh mouthfeel and long persistence. VIGNETI PITTARO A talent for ‘Talento’ and a must-visit wine museum FRIULI ISONZO DOC Piero Pittaro has gradually grown his winery since the 1970s and now produces a large portfolio of wine styles. Situated in Gorizia province, the river Isonzo outlines a His passion for the arts began a long time ago and his personal plateau that slopes gently downwards towards the Adriatic collection is exhibited in his museum which is definitely from the Collio and Carso hills. The soils are young and worth visiting, not only for its precious pieces of artwork but unspoiled with excellent drainage, separated into two sub also for the tribute to crafts related to wine production. areas: the Rive Alte to the north, with its rich red clay mixed Vignetti Pittaro produces high quality sparkling wines with limestone gravel, and the Rive di Giare to the south, labelled ‘Talento’, an Italian name for traditional method with its white limestone gravel mixed with sand. sparkling wines aged on the lees for at least 15 months. GILBERT & GAILLARD SPRING 2015 69 Mag20-G&G-pg68-75.indd 3 17/04/15 15:55:33 QUALITY FACTORS along with fermentation for Vitovska and Malvasia, fermented with natural yeasts and using a small amount of sulphur just before bottling. The vineyards face the Gulf of Trieste. Zidarich wines are savoury and salty with very persistent aromas. Vitovska offers up wet stone and smoky mineral undertones with citrus and balsamic scents. Malvasia is richer on the palate and aromas are marked by peaches in syrup and ED V apricot. He produces two red wines: Terrano, an unusual ESER R HTS native Carso varietal, and Ruje, a blend of Merlot and G I R Terrano, with a more international profile. © ALL GIANFRANCO GALLO HAS BEEN TECHNICAL MANagER SINCE 1978 AT VIE DI ROMANS IN FRIULI COLLI ORIENTALI MARIANO DEL FRIULI, IN THE ISONZO DEL FRIULI APPELLATION The area under this appellation slots into the north-eastern hills of the province of Udine, encompassing a total of 15 VIE DI ROMANS localities and an area of 2,000 ha. The main city is Cividale Sense of place del Friuli, a beautiful medieval village founded by Julius Gianfranco Gallo is one of the best interpreters of Friuli Cesar. The soil type is flysch rock as in Collio but the wines with an in-depth knowledge of pedo-climatology. diversity of microclimates creates several sub-zones and He produces wine respecting what nature can offer in this wine types. Ramandolo and Picolit are unique sweet dessert area, not forcing wines to be what they are not, but wines that are produced only in this area and have a explaining to consumers their particular characteristics. long-standing tradition. Ramandolo DOCG is produced in Single-vineyard wines are released 2 years after the harvest. a tiny pocket, on the hill between the villages of Nimis and A comparative tasting of Sauvignon Piere 2012 (fresh, exotic and floral) and Vieris Sauvignon 2012 (rich, citrus and smoky Tarcento from Verduzzo grapes, exuding balsamic honey notes), then Chardonnay Ciampagnis Vieris 2012 (upright and nut scents. Picolit DOCG is produced from Picolit vines with hay and herbs) and Vie di Romans (elegant and that naturally produce very low yields (due to faulty persistent with yellow plum, flowers, vanilla) was amazing. pollination) and offer up naturally high acidity that balances The 1996 Pinot Grigio expressed a true sense of place with the high sugar concentration in the grapes. It can be produced subtle smoky, mushroom notes, under lime tree honey and in the provinces of both Udine and Gorizia. thyme aromas, and a pronounced structure on the palate. Another recently created sub-zone, which also enjoys long-standing recognition for its high quality wines, is the CARSO DOC Rosazzo DOCG, produced as a white blend (Friulano, Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Ribolla). Livio Felluga produces BenJamin ZidaricH two labels: the iconic Terre Alte and Abbazia di Rosazzo. A sustainable ‘cave’ winery In fact, since 2009 the company manages the vineyards The winery is carved out of the karst rock, 22m deep with around Rosazzo Abbey and barrel ageing takes place in the 5 levels, reducing energy consumption through natural ancient cellar beneath it. Terre Alte 2013 is highly expressive, ventilation and a temperature of 13°C. Fermentation with vanilla and lemon curd scents, whilst Abbazia di takes place in both stone vats and large oak barrels, always Rosazzo 2012 shows nice minerality, floral notes, nuts, using natural materials. For Benjamin, the grape skin is at rhubarb and long persistency. the heart of the wine and he conducts 20 days of maceration Rainfall in the region is such that only a handful of 70 GILBERT & GAILLARD SPRING 2015 Mag20-G&G-pg68-75.indd 4 17/04/15 15:55:35 A journey to Friuli Venezia Giulia vineyards in the region - its fantastic Riesling is planted 330m above sea level. Its range of wines differentiates between the youngest vineyards (under the ‘At’ label), the growths and single-vineyard wines. Oasi 2012 is a dry white wine from Picolit grapes. It is unique and savoury, initially conjuring up a sensation of sweetness but finishing on a very clean note with a well-integrated tannic texture. Sauvignon Vit di Maz 2008 displayed no oxidised aromas but rather lime tree, acacia, peach and smoky scents. Solsire 2011 (Re- fosco, Merlot) is a barrel selection, with excellent fine-grai- ned tannins, violet, spices and cocoa. It is an elegant exam- ple of a generally rustic variety. The southern part of Colli Orientali is especially suitable for red varieties, the native cultivars being Refosco del Pedunculo Rosso, Schiopettino and Pignolo. Young winemaker Gabriele Tami works in the Aquila del Torre cellar and also at his small 10ha family winery in Buttrio. Vini Tami has a ED V long history: grandfather Guido graduated from Conegliano ED ESER V R ESER HTS R School in 1928 and the family was lucky enough to inherit G I R HTS G I a Verduzzo vineyard in Nimis allowing them to produce a R © ALL © ALL delicious Ramandolo. Merlot Riserva 2011 offers a complex nose of black fruits (cassis), slate and ferrous aromas, with fine tannins and a distinctive spicy finish (black pepper). Annalisa Zorzettig, from Zorzettig Cavalier Giuseppe, manages 120ha of vineyards, both on the valley floor and on hillside sites, offering a wide range of wine types and ED V qualities. Basic wines are still sold in bulk to a local and ESER R HTS loyal clientele. The Myò range, inspired by the first Friulian G I R poem dating back to 1380, defends the native varieties © ALL planted in Spessa vineyards, a metaphor represented on the TERRA ROSSA CARSO label by local animal species preserved in a wine glass. Two MALvaSIA ISTRIANA VINES ON A THIN LAYER very different red wines are the Schiopettino 2010 - fresh, OF RED CLAY SOIL OVER KARSTIC ROCK, ABOVE medium-bodied and fruity - and Pignolo 2009, with THE INCREDIBLE UNDERGROUND CELLAR concentrated body and a profound nose of roasted aromas (coffee) and pine resin counterbalanced by nice acidity.