DOCUMENT RESUME

ED 379 506 CE 068 344

AUTHOR Scholl, Jan TITLE 4-H Science Beginner Projects. INSTITUTION Pennsylvania State Univ., University Park. Cooperative Extension Service. PUB DATE 94 NOTE 24p.; For related documents, see CE 068 343-348. PUB TYPE Guides Classroom Use Instructional Materials (For Learner) (051)

EDRS PRICE MF01/PC01 Plus Postage. DESCRIPTORS ; *Clothing Design; *Clothing Instruction; Design Crafts; Elementary Secondary Education; Extracurricular Activities; Home Economics; *Learning Activities; Needle Trades; * Instruction; *Student Organizations; Student Projects; * Instruction IDENTIFIERS *4 H Programs

ABSTRACT This packet contains three 4-H projects for students beginning the sewing sequence of the textile sciencesarea. The projects cover basics of sewing using sewing machines,more difficult techniques, and hand sewing. Each project providesan overview of what the student will learn, what materialsare needed, and suggested projects for the area. A step-by-step plan for doing the project, with instruction sheets and line drawings is included. Also included are a project record, ideas for sharing the project with others, and suggestions for additional projects. (KC)

*********************************************************************** Reproductions supplied by EDRS are the best thatcan be made from the original document. *********************************************************************** 4-H Textile SOtv.:e Begimer Projects

OF EDUCATION U.S. DEPARTMENT andImpmvamOn1 EducatIonal Research oeA 01 INFORMATION "PERMISSION TO REPRODUCE THIS E CATIONAL RESOURCES MATERIAL HAS BEEN GRANTED BY CENTER (ERIC) has beenreproduced as This docuthent or organization received from the person originating it. have been madeto Minor changes quality. improve reproduction

opinions stated inthis Points of view or TO TH EDUCATIONAL RESOURCES document do notnecessarily represent or policy. official OERI position INFORMATION CENTER (ERIC)

BEST COPYAVAILABLE tiiY- IMO 11.04 Iou, Mal M.+ 4-H Textile Science

iliS14111Beginner Project -77. 74.7r

rotswill lear,i a sewing to: Usebasic machine Select sewing a cciuiprnent- Follow a patternand fabric guide ApiyMakea casing sheet elastipc, SeteSe CO rding, stghtrai or Finish andcurved seams seams Press andhen)

if 4 0 fl '* if , )11 4

SIVA moreof these It1 one or Choose items.. skirt, orapron pants,shorts, elastic ordrawstring with an night waistband costume, Shirt,blouse, withcasing ordress clothes, closure orsimple skirt, ordress nt" p, or "Instaprtoeshirred fabric a 1- using, CoLege of -out. ,8 Agrcultural Sciences Cocrcrative Extension

IEST /COPY AVAILABLE -1177111111,C711.Wila14? 3.Choose Choose a firmly wovenFabric fabric Knit.-ows offabric interlocking loops Ask your leaderMeasurements or parentto help you1. Taketake your Yourmeasurements. envelopeproject.)(Dothattions. isnot easy Selectuse Checkfor toknit fabric care a yourfabric for.sugges- pattern thatfor this does theand5.bebolt.Preshrink carePreshrink preshrunk, Trims instructions your and too. fabric, Fabricon thefollowing need to Your measurements a plaid,not require stripe, matching, and some such as NW pattern thewill righthelp yousize. select a 'prints.morefabricCheckIt Matching is timealso is to printedharderand see takes fabric.if to on do. your Woven7. Make fabrics thatSeam ravel needFinishes a *AR sox eyot ota -the grainbuy before it. you threadWoven interlace-:) fabric methods:scam finish. Use one of these easy tolv 11144014110 sopa woo'01+0011011t00114 WA). 0404 100004 1140.11 ksta helpPatternA2. leader Choose you orchoose parent aa canpattern. also at right angles. Zigzag raw Sewedgesovercast a straightby machine them line byof or hand.stitching envelopeLookSuggested at willcarefully. give styles you: The(called to make "views") your pattern Turn under andPinkshears. stitch1/2 the inch edgesseamallowances. from with the a raw pinking edge. f tr showopen.Don't vou forget how toto ask your leader to press scams Pictures of the front and I Remember: Each should be AmountDescriptionmentthea sketch garment of fabric of of the the needed back gar- of How should you clean the garment Sewn-In Care Label bypressed another before seam. it is crossed Suggested fabricsList of notions '11/1.9, /fano .. / ,,q 6.Ask Cut your leaderOut orthe parent Fabric to help Bodyeach measurementsThe size pattern guidefor sheet l , -...... _____ corn - - /DanY --, Made e garrn, youguidefabric place sheet.according your Place pattern to thethe on pattern the on pattern shouldHems not should show be on neat the sideand even,people and will hand see. stitchesPractice mation,will give too. Read it care- you lots of infor- l/tit a '`41 Count selvagearrowthe , on of the measuringthe patternfabric. Pinfromto the the the severaledgefinish stitchhem the top stitchesor zigzagedge andof the a use edge, one on or you lightweight press like under best. wovens, 1/4To inch directionsandalllayoutt-sully. the widths pattern forYou'll for of different sewing.fabric,pieces, find a andtypescharta of I ber(S) isr3;a:::: e tr4 the garr-ent -4 How mt Me tag rice, apattern sewingfabric toin thelong, fabric even or shears. and strokes cut thewith hand"eased"and stitched before down. in they place. areSome with narrow fullness hems need to be a dress f the manufacturer. Ask fbr a care f your garment, such as decorative stitched.may be machine ! 4.onLook Be the for enda theLabel of fiber the bolt content Reader or on and the care hang instructions tag. Write ---4= sewlabel in w:en v)ur garment. you buy your fabric, and save it to 'heck the patterntrim, envelope , to seezipper, what and notions elastic. fastness,down information finishes, width, about cost,fibers, and shrinkage, the name color and time. N 'dons are extrasBuy :quern, fabric, and notions at the same BEST COPY AVAILABLE:.41,,7you need to complete, 'ou'll need. Choose silk pinsyester- and high-quality wrapped cotton threa 0:1*.11,111:11AVE1111=11-4 I d Progrft. Color in the progress you have made in learning to sew a garment.

put in a hem

077,/ make four different seam finishes

cut out fabric on grain

\ preshrink fabric

straighten fabric

locate care information on a store garment

locate fabric information on a bolt

''.... choose a fabric printed on grain

start read a pattern envelope here take measurements 6 Sii wMitch1ufl Project Record 4-H Textile Science

Name 'madert-1g2 Address

What I made for my project Beginner Project

Age as of January 1

Club

Leader's signature

What I shared with others (show and tell, helping other members, community service)

Be a cost counter . .. Keep track of all your sales slips and add it all up Pattern Notions Tax

TOTAL Cost of similar garment .

SAVINGS i.

I What I learned in this project IMO INIII Show and Tell Make a sewing.box Preshrink fabric and trims Share what you've learned Thread a sewing machine a pattern on fabric with others! Give a talk on and wind the 1 Fold a pattern for storage one of the following, or use Make a casing an idea of your own: Prepare a garment for an Information on a pattern *Put elastic in a casing so exhibit envelope that it doesn't twist Take measurements Information on a pattern Cord a casing guide sheet Change stitch widths and Information in the back lengths of a pattern catalog or Press open a seam magazine Finish seams Information on a care label Care for your sewing Types of fabric grains: machine and sewing tools lengthwise, crosswise, and Use three different bias sewing tools What you've learned in this Put in a hem by hand or project and hope to learn machine next 'ear Or demonstrate how to: Check if a fabric is printed on the grain Place a pattern on the grain Straighten fabric edges

Want to Know Exhibits and Taking the Morel? Fashion Revue Project Again Check your local library or Ask your leader about exhib- You may take this project bookstore for sewing books its and fashion revue guide- again if you select a different and ideas! In Pennsylvania, lines. Garments to be exhib- garment and try different lists of helpful books may be ited should include a hand- activities to help you learn found on PENpages at your stitched fabric label near the nt.w skills. county extension office. inside hem. The label should be printed with Your name, age, 4-H club, and county.

Prepared 1w Jan Scholl, assistant professor of agricultural and extension education. Issued in furtherance 01 Cooperative Extension Work, Acts of Congress May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture and the Pennsylvania Legislature. L. F. Flood, Director of Cooperative Extension, The Pennsylvania State University. The Pennsylvania State University is committed to the policy that all persons shall have equal access to programs, facilities, admission, and employment without regard to personal characteristics not related to abiliry, performance, or qualifications as determined by University policy or by state or federal authorities. The Pennsylvania State University does not discriminate against any person because of age, ancestry, color, disability or handicap, national origin, race, religious creed, sex, sexual orientation, or veteran status. Dime,: all inquiries regarding the nondiscrimination polyy to the Affirmative Action Director, The Pennsylvania State University, 201 Willard Building, University Park PA 16802-2801; tel. (814 +4)3-0471.

The PennsylvaniaMAC'ffiversip. 1994. 8 10M394NVO

1=11.4111rtIRIA,1101,re ,111111. MO NM NM MI MI 1111, INN MI *i. 4 $ All!! r.:yrIstleti'?,.:.,"Th LI" ?X"

-H Textile Science

11 Beginner Project There are other things you can sew besides 7.4.. me is, ime mlym clothing! In this project, you can sew things that are useful, simple, and fun to make. I I I NMI

You willlearnto: Do straightand curved stitch Threada sewing machine Wind thebobbin Pivot Youmighto: to learnalsowant Apply biastape Stitch ina looped fastener Use fiberfill Enlargea pattern Work withterrycloth

",

Mr1)1011 ,47

eVe or 011C CO-00Se eas.. ofthebracaddy 1110VC or / 'Travel Draftaoagermitt. . or ,e, Vothoiders 11 SewingcaaaY towel ;411// /1/ , 01beach Pocicetor"c011o" MN 'MI 41"/ Pillow 64 bag bag ,',/ Viyainalaundry, or gymhouse- PENNSTATE 1/4 'Tote, or College of accessory Simple Agricultural Sciences item Cooperative Extcnsion kw hold VV allhatigrag :4- BESTCOPYAVAILABLI made foranother ...... that hasalready been of an item or agarment also makesomething out garment outof placemats You can youmight make a made from apreprinted purpose.For example, possibilities arean arm from a pillowcase.Other sewing! cover So let's get anel or a"torn" project. : ...... and fabric. First, wash your "1"' ...... f7;:inTt.:outlines or mazes hands and fingernails, and dust Getting to Know in simple coloring books, or off your work area. That way the Sewing draw Your own outlines. you won't have to worry about Machine Practice sewing very slowly. removing dirt or stains from First, you will need to learn theIf your machine has a "sew your project. parts of the sewing machine slow" feature, be sure to use Threading is done almost the and what they do. All sewing it. It will help you sew more same way on evert machine. machines are pretty much evenly. To help you remember how, alike. There may be a little Practice going forward and try giving each hook or spindle lever here or there that's backward, and around curves. a name that is familiar to you. different, but most machines When you get to a corner, Then make up a poem or story

work the same wayy. stop there and use the wheel about it. Before learning to thread theto make the last few stitches. Have someone show you machine, practice stitching With the needle down, raise how to wind the bobbin, put your own designs on envelopesthe and adjust the bobbin into the machine, or heavy paper. This will teach your paper to form a new line and pull up the r 18.0 IONS MOS Ili you how to control the ma- of sewing. This step is called a bobbin thread. IIOf4044,e(44 WS chine and where to put your "pivot." Practice this e 4;000 fingers. You may want to try Now let's work with thread several times. a4Vca."4; 41,ea/t471,, eirdiegoe 4,:eArAevodf eaa'aZia mievia 4w, . . . "wee,. Find these sewing machine, parts on your machine. ad- 4,0,14,r Use a'coloiecrpendliar-:erayiiiiIiiittiread,:th. 0-Machin' e.Oli: ae. ..1 r .% 17$,...: .,',.....' ' vi:4-;; ' ' ,...11: '.:),"t'..-,Y1-V .'11':, r -"-ir, :r8PS:., 4etwie6,4'44;74"0:444.44;:ed .. -s-,.=': 1-1''-',;-i:Y,..::-:'5k,Zer,..At,-It.1,15;s::.,:lf,'''...,:-.-,""'.M4-.1\ktf'4':,:k-t-8k1 lecr4grASZior. Z4.7 aira' 1 . . 44/44e. ti 04, 4. 4.0e. 41604444.<1. - weet'Ata 4C4e4 te4oe

Avfrr,9 Araai kAre, if, faa.

-

0 "

10 t' A ILABLE Stitching for fabric i 10 to 18 inches), printedcloth to press from the right Practice side together. Use a few to side (the printed side of the Begin stitching on notebook, hold the fabric together while fabric ). graph paper, or coloring book stitching. Practice using a Have your leader check the pages printed with simple pinking scissors. stitch tension. The tension is designs. Stitch on paper mazes Idea: To practice seam fin- the amount of "give" in the or draw your own designs! ishes, try several different fin- stitch. If the thread is too tight, When you have practiced, take ishes on a few scraps of the samethe seam will pucker. If the your road test and get your fabric. Wash the fabric scraps a thread is too loose, the threads sewing machine license (see few times to see how they come will be loopy. The tension is next page). out. Then select the seamfinish good when stitches form the Then stitch on a single layer that is right for your project! same way on both sides of sewn of polyester-cotton fabric Press the seam by moving the fabric. You can adjust the ten- printed with a large geometric iron in an up-and-down mo- sion (upper tension) on the design or stitch on stripes. tion. First press one side of the machine. Different fabrics may Using a plain stitch, cut and seam and then another, then need different tension settings. stitch several short lengths of press the seam open. Use a press

JON

dayby: , ...... clotheseach "...... ouny \S-1 care r^: hanging upclothes foldingclothes inlaundry/ clothes puttingdirty neat keepingclosets drawersneat keeping snacking 1 stains playing o treating astheyhappe befor fixing tears clothes WM - outof"good" MN NM changing WO PON101,,,

111 SUNDAY

) I MONDAY

"TUESDAY

WEDNESDAY

rHuRsDAy

rr

I.R.IDAY Ina 11 BEST COPY AVAILABLE Sewing Machine Road test

So

04 eo

tge9

.%.%00

Driver has shown the ability to: thread machine use hand wheel wind bobbin replace needle pu3 adjust tension back stitch change stitch length control speed use lint brush pivot 4 e keep fingers away from needle let move paper 12 OP BEST con' AVAILABLE

Adapted from "License to Drive: Cornell University StwBirkeh ore. Project Record 4-H Textile Science

Name ma e1t Address

What I made for my project Beginner Project tS1 1 hos

Age as of January 1

Club

Leader's signature

What I shared with others (show and tell, helping other members, community service)

Be a cost counter ... Keep track of all your sales slips and add it all up Pattern Notions Tax

TOTAL Cost of similar garment

SAVINGS

What I learned in this project

-/13 BEST con( AVAILABLE ti Show and Tell Tell what you learned in this project. You may show *11 something you made or 0 0 demonstrate one of the 00 following: 0 Parts of a sewing machine Threading a sewing ma-. chine -21

1.1 Backstitching Stitching around a curve Pressing a seam Pivoting around a corner Checking and adjusting tension Making a label for a fair exhibit Or come up with an idea of your own.

a Want to Know Exhibits and Taking the More? Fashion Revue Project Again Check your local library or Ask your leader about your You may want to take this bookstore for ideas in craft project exhibit. Garments to project for more than one books and magazines. In be exhibited should include year. If so, choose some- Pennsylvania, lists of helpful a hand-stitched fabric label thing that will help you resources can be found on near the inside hem. The develop skills you haven't PENpages at your county label should he printed with learned before. extension office. your name, age, 4-H club, and county. This project was not /.--/ / - /- -/ designed to be modeled at a Nam* 44 . fashion revue. But have your 't ' 'Ago . leader check guidelines at the county, regional, and

: state levels. County &Oar ee,1 ' \ Stiitts.41.0a 44;i9Vane,

Prepared by Ian Scholl, assistant professor of agricultural and extension education. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work, Acts of Congress May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture and the Pennsylvania Legislature. 1.. F. Hood, Director of Cooperative Extension, The Pennsylvania State University. The Pennsylvania State University is committed to the policy,that all persons shall have equal access to programs. facilities, admission, and employment without regard to personal characteristics not related to ability, perfOrmance, or qualifications as determined by University polies or by state or federal authorities. The Pennsylvania State University does not discriminate against any person because of age, ancestry, color, disability or handicap, national origin, race, religious creed, sex, sexual orientation, or veteran status. Direct all inquiries regarding the

it nondiscrimination policy to the Affirmative Action Director, The Pennsylvania State University, 201 Willard Building, University Park PA 16802.2801; tel. (8141863-0471. The Pennsylvania Stare University 1994. 14

BEST COPY AVAILAB,. 461 4-H Textile Science

Beginner Project

To.q. .1

s . r.11 ,C eraCe401.::/ b 7,12 Before sewing machines, people made all their clothes and home furnishings by hand. Most of us don't have to do thatnow, but r,,, garments still need buttons and hems, and mending. Other sewing projects can be done by hand, too. Youmay want to sew a school letter on a garment or sew a patch in a special place. Don't forget all the decorative stitches youcan make by hand! \./ will learnto: You and shanks Sew onbuttons ripsand tears Repair stitches Dodecorative Overcastseams Hem aboutthe You'll alsolearn thread,and -1),7eic typesof needles, them e (7,ge to use stitchesand when nee sortecigha. muchmorel 7-72reilds,orciles Andmuch, Scissorshis 1Qtious " Pahri types 1/2dthread nd

7... rig Ai tab p.. 4p e k.f. ill VI eYe burrb a gauge 4 Patch I) etc, 4200/... iiretit iitNo A aoQ, ilre `t to P You A of these SChoose,IVVI ormore of items: with avarietypatche an of Samples variety handstitcheswith book fasteners Activity and stitches on a Band stitches or10-itted Decorativesewn, PENNSTATE purchased, sarment gpsmenthand-stitched College of Other 4 accessory Agricultural Sciences or Cooperative Extension 5 REST COPY AVAILABLE Set Up Your Work Area Thimbles come in many shapes Before you start, think about your work area. You'll need and sizes for various types of good light, a comfortable chair, and a clean table to work sewing. They are designed to on. Be sure your hands and nails areclean, too. protect your fingers as you push If you haven't hand stitched before, you may want to try the needle through the fabric. using a sewingcard or a sewing block first, just to get the Choose one that fits snugly with- "'" hang of it. leo "1" out cutting off your circulation! I A is usually worn on the third finger of your right cave 1 Hand hand (if you are right handed) or the third finger of your left hand (if you are left handed). Some people use thimbles on I both hands or several thimbles I on the same hand to protect .1 their fingers. Thimbles take a little practice olio 1°11. to use. Don't give up on them! oa IONWI' 'UN ,S.A Arlan Let's Talk About. RWM Neeciles Needles come in all sizes and .1 are used for different tasks. In choosing a needle, the rule is to choose one by the length that matches the stitch you'll be making. A quilting needle, for ex- ample, is very short because the ideal in quilting is to have 8 stitches to an inch. By contrast, a running stitch is very long, 75' and you'll need a longer needle in a larger size. Choosing the right length of needle for the job will make your sewing task easier. Also choose the needle that Did youknowa works best with your fabric. Use thimbleused to a fine one for delicate fabrics calledathumb and a thicker one for loosely Assorted sizes - woven or heavier fabrics. 24.0 OWN t 0:6 Some packages cf needles 4 , N, S4 c ces contain needles all the same Cr4 4401 size; others concaiii a range of C41.64e , 4 C.04#14. sizes or types. You'll also find C't packaged needles specifically for 5 needles cross-stitching, quilting, em- NICKLE PLATED STEEL broidery, upholstery, , TARNISH PREVENTIVE PACKAGE and beading. 16 .?d Just as there are many kinds of needles and thimbles, there are A great way to strengthen many types of thread. Use the and reduce tangling in thread type that matches the fiber is to apply oeeswax. The was content of your fabric and smooths out the thread and its use. helps it glide through the Rayon thread is smooth and fabric more evenly. It's better shiny. It works well for not to use beeswax on embroi- topstitching and for use with dery floss or . Types of stretchy fabrics. For most projects, you'll Handwork as MO AIM NM need to use a single thread. To ws C.,1MI a4,12 .01 Cotton-wrapped polyester is athread your needle, find the Look in the library for refer- common thread for general end of the thread on the spool.ences on how to do other use, as is mercerized cotton Use a pair of scissors to cut thetypes of handwork. On a thread. thread past the point where it separate sheet of paper, write Quilting thread is a bit is damaged. A diagonal cut a short description of five or heavier than most threads. will make it easier to thread. more of these: Embroidery floss comes in Send the thread through the quilting brightly colored for eye of the needle. embroidery embroidery and duplicate A can be trapunto stitching work. helpful if the needle eye is very cross stitch small. Once the thread is latch hook There are and through the eye, pull it so that upholstery threads, basting needlepoint you have a total of about 18 hair pin lace threads that dissolve in water,inches on the needle. If your and nylon threads that are tatting thread is too long, it will Can you think of others? nearly invisible. tangle. The best way to tell whether Clip the thread coming off you're getting a good-quality the spool shorter than the thread is to look at two spools thread that has gone through of thread with the samecon- the needle, and fasten the long I tent. The bargain brand often end. gives off lint and seems uneven. Now you're ready to sew! . . Lower-quality threads also tendTry these stitches and the to tangle and break. activities that ibllow.

17 Fasteners Hooks and Eyes Hooks and eyes come in several Fasteners hold two pieces of a garment together. Some sizes and are used for high-stress fasteners overlap, while others just meet. areas like waistbands. Dark fasteners are used with dark fabrics, and metal-colored or Snaps are used to hold two pieces of fabric together where white fasteners are used with there is little strain. Like hooks and eyes, they come in light fabrics. different sizes for different weights of fabric. They also Small hooks and eyes should come in different colors (silver for light fabricsand black for be used on lightweight fabrics dark ones). for low-stress areas. Large ones Sew the ball part of the snap on the overlap first. Using a are for skirts, pants, and shorts. double thread, anchor the snap in place by taking two tiny Bulky, heavy fabrics need larger stitches. Bring the thread up through one of the holes and hooks and eyes. use the overhand stitch to sew it onto thefabric. The type of eye you will use Slip the needle between the fabric layers to each of the depends on the type of opening. other holes and fill each space. Anchor the thread. Check The straight "bar" eye is prob- the right side of the waistband to be sure your stitches don't ably the easiest to use. show through. Attach the hook to the upper Secure the socket section of the snap onto the underlap side of a waistband, placing it using the same method. slightly back from the edge. "? t Using a double thread, anchor

. the thread on the reverse side with tiny stitches. Bring the thread up through a loop and take the thread over the loop. Take a small stitch down under the loop and come up through the middle, being sure the stitches do not show on the right side. This is called an overhand stitch.Keep your stitches close together as you stitch around the loop. You can also use a . Just slip the needle between the fabric layers and make a

y J. EyE. EYE loop. Repeat. Place the eye so -.A .,. - . that the waistband edges are in

7,1 a straight line and connect properly with the hook. Attach the eye in the same manner as the hook. BAR ,,, 1."11HOOK V4,

,144.e''J-4- . -,.tf 18 Learn to sew on a TAM -SR rum -um --m -ru --u r-, , =1.1 -um VMI CMIll rum VT, ./

I. Use a single or double thread in a contrasting color or a shade darker than the fabric background color. 2. Tie a small knot in the end of the thread or carefully make a couple of stitches in the fabric where the button is going to fasten to the fabric. 3. Draw the thread through the holes in the button, one at a time, placing a pin (for lightweight fabrics) or tooth- pick (for heavier fabrics) across the top of the button to hold the thread for the . 4. Stitch until the button is secure. 5. Pull out the pin or toothpick so that the button is loosely attached to the fabric. 6. Wind thread from the needle tightly around the threads under the button to form a strong shank. Bring the needle and thread through to the wrong side of the gar- ment. 7. Make several stitches in the same place or tie a knot and cut away the excess thread. Practice sewing on buttons by repairing your own garments; or decorate hats, baskets, or tennis shoes. Usually a button is sewn so that the threads are parallel to the floor, but you can make a button look decorative by sewing threads in different 'directions. Some garments have difkrent buttons of the

same size down the front. 11:17.14\ 1(1; You can experiment with 41ft.160.) button covers, too. 19 . . ) o is ' Hand Stitches a 3 Running Stitch 4 j 1 A running stitch is used for basting, easing, tucking, - . 4 6 ing, quilting, and sewing seams a..) :that will not be under a great 1 deal of strain. The simplest 4 a stitch of all is done by taking 60 small, straight, even stitches 1 9 S 1/4 to 1/16 inch long. . 1 1 .

An overcasting stitch is used for finishing the raw edge of a seam i.!, -.11e'S or a hem. Stitch diagonally ,... A/ across the raw edge of the fabric. Practice spacing your -%fe.stitches evenly. .4 :,) a ) . 3 1 Backstitch J :Backstitching is used to repair ,r) 1 ' ° machine-stitched seams and to 3 fasten thread ends tightly. Start a ) 4 a with one small running stitch. .1) 'Your needle will come out a i ' 4 small distance past we place . I ,where your stitch appears to a .end on the underside of the fabric. Send the needle an equal distance past the i I 6 place it came out and bring it out through the fabric. Repeat the process over :1 I 0 . , : 1 .and over again. The stitches on the underside will be twice as long as those . i 3 on the top side. . 3 A backstitch is used to securely fasten facings, belt loops, and pant cuffs. Sew a small number of back stitches close together in a or other place that doesn't show on the outside of the garment. I

3

.1i Use a blanket stitch for making belt loops, thread loops, hand- worked , and eves for hook and eye closures. You can also use this stitch to deco- rate an edge of a project or when a bar tack is needed. Hold the fabric edge toward you. Point your needle through the right side of the fabric and come up over the thread as you pull it 20 securely.

a a 0 0 0 0 0 0 Use a blind stitch for hemming 4 0 0 0 and holding facings in place. A 0 a blind stitch prevents puckering caused by pulled threads. Fold a the hem or back about c3) 1/2 inch, catching only one or 0 S two threads. Sew a stitch in the

a garment, then stitch diagonally .44 above it in the facing or hem, 3 forming a zigzag effect. Leave

S the stitches loose to allow for

1 . movement. a 3 Stitch Use a catch stitch when you

.3 want to attach two fabrics together and allow some in the material. It's a good stitch for hemming stretch knits and attaching . Working from left to right, take a small

4 horizontal stitch in a single layer 3 of fabric near the edge. Take another horizontal stitch diagonally to the right 3 5 1 and just over the edge on the other layer of material. A criss-cross pattern will form between stitches. 0

.39 Use a slip stitch for attaching a 9 folded or rolled edge to another 9 a piece of material. Hems and 0 i often call for a slip stitch because it is nearly invis- a ible. Insert the needle through the inside of the fold. As the 3) needle exits the fold, pick up a few threads of the fabric. Run 3 the needle back into the fold for about 1/4 inch before picking -9 up a few more threads. _MIDStitch ra A is used for attach- O 1 ing hems and for turning under

.1 an edge. Take a small stitch in the fabric and bring the needle diagonally up through the 3 garment and the folded or bound edge. Repeat around the 0 S hem until complete. Secure the 21 hemming with a tack stitch. 3) ) 13rossStitcn , Cross-stitching is 1.0Dre rti-e=kY' often used for decora -w " tion, but you can also use it to hold layers of material together, on a facing edge or the center of a lined jacket. Make a num- ber of evenly spaced horizontal stitches about 1/4 to 3/8 inch wide. This will form a diagonal pattern. Then reverse your stitches and go back, turning the slashes into X's.

The cross-stitch tack, used for keeping facings in place, is done like this: Take one horizontal stitch, catching only the facing and seam allowance, then 'reverse and make the stitch into an X. Remember to catch only the inside of the garment. Go over this X a number of times to be secure.

A is used for thread loops, eyes, and carriers. For this stitch you need a double thread. Fasten the thread with a f number of overlyp 4)- ping stitches on the underside of the fabric. Take a short stitch to form a loop on the right side. Use your thumb and fingers to reach through and catch the thread to form a .iew loop. Pull the new loop through the first loopand tighten, forming a knot at the base of the thread chain. Attach the chain to the fabric with a series of small stitches on the wrong side of the fabric.

... ; % Al activities: activities stitches, trythese Trythese masteredthese a seam. youhave overcasting, Now that by bastingor seams. someone that haveworn-outmaking a Help garments cuff by Repairseveralbelt loop,or pants facing, practice at Secure a items, tack. repairing backstitch the skillsfor have ma two ..._0 j Once you am Lava , withrepairs. .., ..rismoss r.teal homeby helping ,Cr IOW . . v q . ..I 1- V" C SVitCh by SrViech Project Record 4-H Textile Science

7 Name

Address

What I made for my project Beginner Project

Age as as of January 1

Club

Leader's signature

What I shared with others (show and tell, helping other members, community service)

Be a cost counter . eep track of all your sales slips and add it all up Pattern Notions Tax

TOTAL Cost of similar garment

SAVINGS

What I learned in this project

23. BEST C"."Y AVAILABLE Show and Tell Share something you've learned in this project. Show how to do one of the follow- ing, or present an idea of your own: Sew on a button Sew on a patch Sew a hem Make a blanket-stitch edging Make a cross-stitch clover Duplicate stitch a sweater Mend! Use a thimble Thread a needle

14 CGmIIINN 13ae3 Want to linow Exhibits and Taking the Project More? Fashion Revue Again Many craft books and maga- Ask your leader about exhib- You may want to take this zines containing information iting your project. Garments project for more than one about stitching are available to be exhibited should in- year. If so, choose something in your library or local book- clude a hand-stitched fabric that will help you develop store. Check PENpages at label near the inside hem of skills you haven't learned your county extension office the garment. Thc label shouldbefore. for other ideas. There may bebe printed with your name, resource people in the com- age, 4-H club, and county. /// / / / munity who can help you for This projeCt was not \ Name 4-cat rime little cost, or you may want designed to be modeled Age 10 to join a church, community, at a fashion revue. But or needlework guild. have your leader check 444 clubeasirafittia guidelines at the county, County ggirtt regional, and state levels. // //

Prepared by Jan Scholl, assistant professor of agricultural and extension education. Issued in furtherance of Cooperati% e Extension Work, Acts of Congress May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture and the Pennsylvania Legislature. L. F. Hood, Director of Cooperative Extension, The Pennsylvania State University. Thc Pennsylvania State University is committed to the policy that all persons shall have equal access to programs, facilities, admission, and employment without regard to personal characteristics not related to ability, performance, or qualifications as determined by University policy or by state or federal authorities. The Pennsylvania State University does not discriminate against any person because of age, ancestry, color, disability or handicap, national origin, race, religious creed, sex, sexual orientation, or veteran status. Direct all inquiries regarding the nondiscrimination policy to the Affirmative Action Director, The Pennsylvania State University, 201 Willard Building, University Park PA 16802-2801; tel. (814) 863.0471. The Pennsylvania State University 1994. 24 10M394NV() L.OM MN Mr( -11 .1i -141 ,41-