SOCKS from AROUND NORWAY Over 40 Traditional Knitting Patterns Inspired by Norwegian Folk-Art Collections
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SOCKS FROM AROUND NORWAY SOCKS FROM DUPLICATION PROHIBITED INA GRANLUND SÆTHER, author of the by copyright holder Nacclaimed Mittens from Around Norway, is back with an all-new guide to Norway’s hidden treasures. Explore centuries of Scandinavian sock-knitting history, with dozens of classic patterns and more obscure Nina Granlund Sæther design delights drawn from the author’s in- depth knowledge of Norwegian knitting and reconstructed from carefully-researched historical sources. SOCKS FROM AROUND NORWAY Over 40 Traditional Knitting Patterns Inspired by Norwegian Folk-Art Collections NCLUDING SOCKS FOR women, men, Iand children in a variety of styles and designs—stripes, cables, entrelac, and so much more—from every region of Norway, this stunning compendium of Norwegian knitting tradition is as inspirational as it is eye-catching. TRIKING FULL-COLOR PHOTOGRAPHS Nina Granlund Sæther Nina Granlund Sand easy-to-read pattern charts, plus tips, tricks, and a comprehensive guide to traditional methods of heel shaping, make this the ultimate handbook for any Scandinavian sock enthusiast. $26.95 USD ISBN: 9781570769221 5 2 6 9 5 © Nina Granlund Saether, and Trafalgar Square Books 9 7 8 1 5 7 0 7 6 9 2 2 1 www.trafalgarbooks.com www.trafalgarbooks.com Socks from Around Norway Full Cover.indd 1 11/12/18 1:42 PM DUPLICATION PROHIBITED by copyright holder First published in the United States of America in 2019 by Trafalgar Square Books North Pomfret, Vermont 05053 Originally published in Norwegian as Sokker fra hele Norge. Copyright © 2017 Cappelen Damm AS English translation © 2018 Trafalgar Square Books All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, by any means, without written permi- ssion of the publisher, except by a reviewer quoting brief excerpts for a review in a magazine or newspaper or on a website. ISBN: 978-1-57076-922-1 Library of Congress Control Number: 2018961115 Interior Design: Sissel Holt Boniface Photography: Guri Pfeifer; for exceptions, see page 199. Charts: Denise Samson Translation into English: Carol Huebscher Rhoades Printed in China 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 © Nina Granlund Saether, and Trafalgar Square Books www.trafalgarbooks.com NorwegianSocks_Interior CC 2019.indd 4 11/6/18 11:39 AM DUPLICATION PROHIBITED by copyright holder CONTENTS 6 Preface 66 Barleycorn (Byggkorn) Socks from 8 Read Before You Begin Numedal 8 Needles 70 Halling Socks 8 Abbreviations 74 Larvik Socks 8 Yarn and Reinforcing Thread 78 Long Lace Stockings 8 Gauge (Tension) 84 Telemark Socks 8 Sizes 88 Cable Socks from Tinn 9 Casting On 92 Setesdal Krot Socks 9 Two-Color Stranded Knitting 96 Zigzag Pattern Socks 9 Yarn Floats 100 Cable Stockings from Marnardal 9 Two-End (Twined) Braid 104 Leftover Party 10 Entrelac 108 Bridegroom’s Socks from Vindafjord 11 Abbreviations 112 Rose Socks with Lace Patterns 12 Heels 118 Stockings from Voss 13 Hourglass Heel 122 Short Skakareiker Socks from Austevoll 14 Gusset Heel 126 Kroneleistar from Øygarden 16 Band Heel with Short Heel Flap 130 Hardanger Socks 18 Band Heel with Long Heel Flap 134 Sunnfjord Socks 19 Shaped Common Heel 138 Spiral Socks from Nordfjord 20 Afterthought Heel 142 Children’s Socks from Nordmøre 21 Reinforcing the Heel 146 Socks from Budalen 22 Toe Shaping 150 Ragg Socks from Hitra 22 Star Toe 154 Striped Socks from Orkladalen 22 Wedge Toe 158 Maria’s Stockings from Lierne 22 Weaving in Yarn Ends 164 Trønder Socks 23 Garment Care 168 Children’s Socks from Helgeland 24 Striped Socks from Østfold 172 Entrelac Stockings from Helgeland 28 Star Socks 176 Spider Socks from Troms 34 Rose Stockings from Asker 180 Sports Socks from Alta 38 Oslo Socks 184 Shell Pattern 42 Stockings from 1868 188 Heart Socks 46 Rose Ankle Socks 192 Socks with Larger Lice Pattern 50 Striped Stockings from Glåmdalen 196 Yarn Information 54 Color Party 198 Bibliography 58 Stockings from Valdres 199 Photography Credits © Nina Granlund Saether, and Trafalgar Square Books 62 Stockings from Gausdal www.trafalgarbooks.com NorwegianSocks_Interior CC 2019.indd 5 11/6/18 11:39 AM DUPLICATION PROHIBITED by copyright holder PREFACE From Old Stockings to New Socks I’m unusually fascinated by old textiles. They This is cultural history and women’s history might be yellowed by fire, full of holes and torn, specific to Norway—knowledge that I think and maybe even a little moth-eaten, but they is important in our globalized times. I’ve also catch my eye nevertheless. Every garment had tried to convey the specifics of regional names hours of work behind it. Before knitting could and colloquial language. begin, the wool had to be carded and spun into Creative women stand behind most of the yarn. It might also have to be dyed. An expe- stockings I have included. Individual districts rienced spinner can usually produce about 3.5 have strong, distinctive traditions. In work- ounces / 100 grams of yarn in an hour. After ing on this book, I have, among other things, that, hours and hours of knitting ensued. The shown how clever and industrious people were finer and thinner the yarn, the more time it took. at knitting cable pattern stockings, particularly There was little light inside during winter- in Telemark and Agder. The yarn is so fine and time. There might only have been light from the techniques so advanced that it’s genuinely the fireplace to see by, or a little tallow candle difficult to recreate them today. Other places to help. Hanna Winsnes recommended that ser- have stockings made with the finest stripe com- vant girls knit if there wasn’t enough light for positions or eight-petal roses. In Numedal, the other work. so-called byggkorn pattern was often used—a Nevertheless, unbelievably beautiful tex- fun but almost forgotten technique. I’ve tried tiles were created—both well-needed every- to include something from each of Norway’s day clothing and beautifully decorated fine provinces. Some places have so much exciting garments. The clothes made for confirmations work available that it was difficult to choose. and weddings were later worn for festive occa- You will find mostly patterns for women’s sions or for going to church on Sundays. When socks, but also a couple pairs of children’s and fine garments wore out, they became everyday men’s socks in this book. Some of the stock- clothes. And when it was no longer possible to ings are quick to knit, others take time and darn or patch them, the fabric was taken to the patience. My goal wasn’t to copy the original woolen mills that popped up at the end of the textiles exactly, but most of the patterns were nineteenth century. The former owner might get inspired by preserved materials. It’s been more a few pennies or maybe some new yarn from important for me to note the pattern motifs and the shoddy mill in return. For that reason, few details, and use what I’ve learned in new designs old textiles are preserved. for today. In this book, I have tried to showcase a few of the stockings from past times that still remain—preserved both in museums and in private collections. I have found a number of lovely well-kept treasures. In writing this book, Nina Granlund Sæther on the internet: www.hjertebank.no I wanted to share some of the textile knowledge Facebook: Hjertebank Nina Granlund Sæther our foremothers, and some forefathers, had. Instagram: @ninagranlundsather © Nina Granlund Saether, and Trafalgar Square Books www.trafalgarbooks.com 6 7 NorwegianSocks_Interior CC 2019.indd 6 11/6/18 11:39 AM DUPLICATION PROHIBITED by copyright holder © Nina Granlund Saether, and Trafalgar Square Books www.trafalgarbooks.com 6 7 NorwegianSocks_Interior CC 2019.indd 7 11/6/18 11:39 AM DUPLICATION PROHIBITED by copyright holder READ BEFORE YOU BEGIN Needles All the socks and stockings in this book are Finely-spun Spelsau yarn, such as Røros knitted with five double-pointed needles (dpn) embroidery yarn, is a good choice for this, but and worked from the cuff down. Of course, you the knitted fabric will be somewhat stiffer. You can work with a long magic loop circular needle could also use silk thread or nylon buttonhole instead; just remember that the patterns thread, which comes in a wide choice of colors are written with double-points in mind. The (look for it in fabric shops). That adds less bulk stitches are usually divided with the same num- and is barely visible. ber on each needle but sometimes there will be more stitches on the instep than the sole. The beginning and end of the round is at the center back of the leg or centered on the sole. The first needle holds the stitches for the left half of the back, the second needle has half of the left front; half of the right front stitches are on the third needle, and the fourth needle has the right half of the back. I have divided the patterns into three sections: the left, heel, and foot. The leg usually begins with ribbing or an edging, and the foot ends with the toe shaping. Gauge (Tension) Yarn and Reinforcing Thread In order for finished garments to be the The patterns include yarn suggestions. Feel expected size, the gauge must be maintained. free to substitute yarn but adhere to the given If you knit too loosely, your socks will be too gauge if you want the same results. big. In that case, try smaller needles. And vice versa: if your knitting is too tight, the socks will There are various yarn qualities suitable for be too small, so you should try bigger needles.