CHASQUI PERUVIAN MAIL

Year 13, number 25 Cultural Bulletin of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs July, 2015 Monolithic sandeel, drawing by Wari Wilka, 1958. Wari by Monolithic sandeel, drawing CHAVÍN DE HUÁNTAR, MYTHICAL ANCIENT RUINS/ CHRONICLER GUAMAN POMA / MARIANO MELGAR´S POETRY Huántar, where at least some evidence of the use of ceramics erty claims and specialized skills organic materials were preserved and the emergence of the earliest emerged in the Early Formative thanks to the rough dry desert Andean 'classic' civilizations, period (circa 1700-1200 BC.).

WHAT IS CHAVÍN Museum. Larco climate. The artifacts found in i.e. the Nazca and Mochica, was At various sites, competition for the tombs of the Paracas civiliza- called Early or Formative period resources and arable land led to tion bear some resemblance to (circa 1700-200 BC.). the creation of larger and more the Chavín stone sculptures, and The authors of this catalog ostentatious ceremonial centers. DE HUÁNTAR? also provided the first reliable agree that it is time that the ar- In the next period, the Middle dating since organic material can cheology of the Central Andes Formative period (circa 1200-800 Peter Fux* be dated physically. During the transcends preconceived notions BC.), the distinctive artistic style second half of the twentieth cen- of the Old World and in order and iconography associated with Chavin was one of the most fundamental civilizations of ancient Peru. Its imposing ceremonial center is included in tury, archaeologists preferred not to reflect this trend they use new the later findings in Chavín de to speculate on the social structure words. After all, recent archaeo- Huántar developed-the one now UNESCO´s World Heritage list. The Lima Art Museum, in co-organization with the Rietberg Museum in Zurich or on finding an explanation and, logical discoveries show that the known as the "Chavin style." Here and the Peruvian Ministry of Culture, has put up an ambitious exhibit. instead, preferred to concentrate peoples in this region had built a number of supernatural mytho- on chronological or material type large ceremonial centers since logical creatures with human and questions. It is for this reason that 3500 BC, long before the earliest animal features become especially they talk of a "Chavín Horizon” or known evidence of pottery, i.e., important. In the Late Formative Woman breastfeeding her child. Ceramics “Early Horizon" to refer to the first during the Archaic period (to period (circa 800-400 BC.), the 22.6 × 14, 8 × 12.8 cm. Cupisnique style. circa millennium BC, when the Chavín use the old term). These events Andean world, and its current 1200-1500 BC. iconography and style were ad- are remarkably early compared system of meaning as expressed opted by different civilizations of to the cultural history of other and consolidated through its art the Andean Central region. The regions of the world, including and architecture, gained strength time known as “Early Horizon” is ancient Egypt. Collective plan- and supremacy. Amazon basin and that such ties were extremely primeval. Chavín de Huántar suddenly had become a key indicator of the local origin of the High Andean civilization and a center of such "cultural melting

pot" of the Andes. The exhibition Fux. Peter Photo: in Lima of the monoliths known as "Estela Raimondi" (Raimondi´s Start) and "Tello Obelisk", two emblematic sculptures of Chavín, reinforced the hypothesis that there must have been a parent Chavín de Huántar Archeological Site civilization. he Chavin civilization de- Chavín de Huántar could well rives its name from the ar- have been used as a reference to chaeological site of Chavín trace the local origin of known T civilizations in Peru, but, in the de Huántar, in the Peruvian high- lands. The breathtaking ruins of same way, raised even more ques- this monumental complex are tions: where did the Chavín peo- located at 3180 meters above sea Ministry of Peru. of Culture Ministry of Peru. of Culture ples come from? This was a highly level, on the eastern side of the developed society and yet had no Cordillera Blanca. Remains of mas- clear ancestor. There simply was sive stone buildings in the Ancash no archaeological evidence to region, located in a narrow valley support the alleged links to the of the mountain called Callejón de Amazon basin. How old is Chavín? Conchucos, caught the attention of How did its society function? Was many early travelers and scholars. Chavín ever an empire that con- In the mid-sixteenth century, a trolled a vast territory from one chronicler reported seeing a huge powerful center, like Rome or the Cabezas Clavas (Stone Nail Head), Etched stone. fortress with faces etched on its Incas-who came much later? This walls, and in the early seventeenth was the obvious conclusion, at century, people talked about an least in the absence of any other the first period of the history of ning and engineering works like Chavín de Huántar was not the oracle comparable with those clear alternative. Andean civilizations in which this undoubtedly went hand in only set of temples of the time, of ancient Rome or Jerusalem, It was possible to close in a certain style and iconography hand with social and economic but it may well have been the which existed in this remote valley on an answer from a series of spread over a wide region. developments such as the use of biggest. Other centers like Kuntur Mountain range. findings, such as richly decorated To describe, sort, and prepare irrigation to increase crop yields, Wasi, Pocapampa, and Kotosh de- The existence of such massive pottery and textiles developed on diligently a typology of the various the formation of ever larger social veloped in this time too. We can stone building with gigantic, yet the coast, about one thousand discoveries made in the second units, and growing interdepen- even go as far as to say that despite strange, sculpted figures, in such kilometers south of Chavín de half of the twentieth century, dence: in short, the beginnings of their similarities and differences a remote and inhospitable place, researchers were able to identify a complex society. Thus, the au- and their sharing the same social proved irresistibly fascinating for several different civilizations thors have proposed to look back system and worldview, they were newcomers from the Old World. and styles, and nowadays studies at the beginning of the Formative rivals seeking to exert influence Nevertheless, it is not surprising talk about new developments period in the Central Andes in and gain followers. The fasci- that coming across such ruins, like the Cupisnique civilization, 3500 BC. nation that Chavín de Huántar newcomers interpreted its former Lima Art Museum. the Tembladera- and Chavín-style If we are to view Chavín not as still awakens in us and the long function in the light of the con- ceramics, or the Limoncarro style just a stylistic category of material history of its excavations have cepts they brought with them, not Acrobat. Ceramics. 25.4 × 15 × 20 cm. circa 1200-1500 BC. stone etchings. remains but as the social system opened a unique window into out of ignorance but because they Some of the Old World con- that produced such artifacts and the past, through which we can had no other alternative. cepts that were imported into lived with them, we must first learn to understand the way in When archaeological research important sculpture, measuring to hypothesize that the archeology of the Americas investigate the process through which this central Andean society began in South America in the more than four meters high and the deity worshiped in include the assumption that the which the oldest complex society functioned-and which is strikingly early twentieth century, researchers known as "El Lanzón" (sandeel) be- Chavín de Huántar was use of ceramics is an essential pre- of the central Andean region was different from what was originally hypothesized that the civilizations cause of its pointed shape, stands Wiracocha, the same condition for the highest degree formed, starting with the first expected. of the High Central Andes had in an extremely narrow and one the Incas would of complexity with which a society steps that led to its formation. is defined. Terminology follows Early ceremonial centers were * Archaeologist at the University of Zurich. He originated in Mesoamerica. dark side in one of the temple´s worship later, but in has worked in various archaeological projects, Julio C. Tello (1880-1947), a chambers, which is accessible only the form of a jaguar. this same premise: in the Cen- built in the fertile coastal oasis such as the one dedicated to Nazca-Palpa, pioneer in Peruvian archeology, through a long, narrow passage. This theory was based tral Andes, the long period that by agricultural-based societies. In sponsored by the German Archaeological elapsed prior to the dissemination addition, they served as a place for Institute. He is curator of pre-Columbian art made a crucial shift in the per- The anthropomorphic image, like on two assumptions: in the Rietberg Museum in Zurich and has spective people had on Chavín de many others, has fangs and claws. that the builders of of pottery (circa 1200-1700 BC) social encounter and to promote been in charge of the Chavin exhibit. The Huántar and again made the stone Other embossed figures show such site had had is known as the Archaic period, social cohesion through rituals. text above is an excerpt from the exhibition “Estela de Raimondi" [Raimondi’s Star]. Etched stone. Rodent. Ceramics. 20 × 10.5 × 15 cm. catalog. sculptures the spotlight. The most even more cats; all of this led Tello connections with the 1.98 m. × 74 cm. × 17cm. Cupisnique style (900-200 BC) while the period between the first A social class with higher prop-

CHASQUI 2 CHASQUI 3 MARIANO MELGAR ODE TO LIBERTY CRYSTAL CLEAR WATERS

Finally, free and safe Severe despotism, I step on his head Crystal clear waters I can sing. By breaking free from the hard Horrible centuries, dark night; The holy freedom: has plummeted, Of such mighty river, constraint, Flee. The tearful India, Earth shook and scared Carrying my tears THE POET OF I will discover my inner me The scorned wise, the whole world, She revitalized her fierceness Adding to the water flowing from its And only with words Know that wrong has ended and we have Every man; but he sees that there is nothing headwaters. will he show his truly inner truth, taken His immense statue in dust dissipated. It reaches the sea, and it is clear, My civil liberty properly understood. The first step to the so longed for good. The sea being so salty, [...] Receives such water with joy Listen: stop crying; My dear American fellows, Will the people welcome its judges? And even attempts to reject, THE YARAVÍES Raise those bold faces, European friends listen, Dear compatriots Only not to taste the bitterness Oppressed slaves, In opposing desires That overseas you saw the first light; Of my tears. Indians who with terror, You shall not be divided, Is this what you feared? Marco Martos* without consolation from heaven or earth, Listen: end the ancient war, Did you think, how deceived we have been! have been captives in your soil. Love gives more than this Earth´s treasures. Could you have thought an American person The poet Mariano Melgar was executed in Umachiri, Puno on March 12, 1815. Although he had a promising Listen: wise patriots, Some days ago Iberia would be vindictive, cruel, tyrant? Whose lights overcome torment Of empyrean turned off the light surroun- There is no such person. That was our literary career, Melgar had decided to join rebel armies headed by Brigadier Mateo Pumacahua and embraced the To look at talent ded by desire Always full of grievances; The beloved freedom, This only: that the righteous judge cause of emancipation at the expense of his young life. When he should be a fair manager Let´s get rid of the misery Already pierced And support and splendor of the mighty That has dominated in our native unhappy Out of love for the homeland, throne. land Urged others to be faithful in every point cholars agree that the idea gave a speech on behalf of the For three centuries he had mastered. Relatives, parents, son, wife, all together. Listen educated world, So it will be and joyful of Peru did not flinch in faculty of the University at the That looked down on this world Almost to the sky We say: my country is the whole globe; Sthe mind of a single person, reception the viceroy Augusto de In fruitful treasure Standing up to despotism, Brother I am Indian and Iberian; To you I sacrifice, And the feet of the colossus into the abyss And the famous men but rather built up gradually in Jáuregui had thrown. His haughty Mariano Melgar, Complete Poems. Peruvian the minds and actions of many statements against the violence by And picking the American gold They had their foundation, Who govern us, are general parents Academy of Language, 1971. This work was individuals. Though the cultural the Spanish authorities were con- You mocked the prisoner and the tyrant. But, has it been useful? Who will free all from their troubles. reprinted in 2012 by the Arequipa Regional To make more noise with his fall. Government. clash between the Spanish civili- sidered seditious. Melgar truly ad- zation and the native civilizations mired Baquíjano and wrote two was a bellicose act, a bloody war, texts in his honor: «A la Libertad» that marks the awakening of an ("For Freedom") and «Al conde de as recalled in his torn verses. of Peru. Melgar never used that today: he is credited with having ness, a matter statistically difficult interest in each other, whether Vista Florida» ("To the Count of Melgar is a classically trained name for his compositions, but written compositions that may to prove since for others sadness Spanish or Quechua, or Aymara, Vista Florida") who is none other poet who knows Latin rhetoric tradition has sought to have have actually been written by comes from the fall of the empire. or Mochica. In fact, that clash than Baquíjano. and its always difficult transfer his name forever linked to that very different authors or are even Anyway, until today there is a gradually turned into an en- Back in Arequipa, he found to the Spanish tradition. His sounding name which is cred- anonymous-this a sign of his predominance of sad folk songs counter, and to a certain extent, his beloved fiancée was rather concern for fables perhaps stems ited with a Quechua etymology, enormous popularity. If someone in Arequipa and at the heart of to building a new society one that elusive and when revolution from his adroit management of associating it with "harahui." is singing a yaraví in a charming such folklore is the permanent did not exist before, but that was headed by Brigadier Mateo themes and rhythms and is fur- "Harahui" is a composition from night in Arequipa, he is said not evocation of Melgar. emerging. Soon new men and Garcia Pumacahua broke out, ther strengthened by his interest the ancient language of the Incas. only to be paying tribute to his There is recorded evidence, women appeared making up a he joined the legionnaires as war in Aboriginal cultures. A fable Melgar wrote songs and those maiden, but also to the mythical then, that at the dawn of the in- different society that we can only marshal. He fought in the Battle is, as we know, one of the most who know the terminology of the Silvia and her singer Mariano dependence of Peru, there was a call Peru. It is, therefore, in the of Umachiri in 1815 and was cap- popular genres of Quechua oral Spanish rhetoric are well aware Melgar- to his unrequited love poet, Mariano Melgar Valdivieso, Viceregal period where the idea tured. A court martial ordered tradition and its presence even of all the intricate relationships that inspired such original poetry. who, knowing well the Spanish of Peru arises and thrives. his execution. Such short time at today among illiterate people in between the Spanish song of Gar- Our poet, who was born liter- metric tradition, he used his Mariano Melgar was born in the end of his life and the quality the Andes is a sign of its age and cilaso, translated into Spanish by ally immersed in neoclassicism, free will which was the path for Arequipa in 1791-in already unset- of his poetry, undoubtedly, con- preference among people. Melgar, Boscan, taken from Dante, and is our first natural romantic. his stylistic freedom and not tling times. It is at this time when tributed to increase his fame so as did José María Arguedas one the Provencal cançó. But if any- Perhaps he had no news of what shackle to his touted inspiration. El Mercurio Peruano and the So- much so that he is remembered century later, became acquainted thing is clear in the Spanish song was happening with German and In the thematic aspect, Mariano ciedad Amantes del País (Academic as a patriot who fought for the first hand with the Quechua tra- is that it had no rule regarding English romantic poets of his Melgar, with this and other sim- Society of Lovers of Peru) first independence of Peru and also dition and its fables interweaving the nature or structure of rhyme time, but surely had information ilar poems, laid the foundations appeared. He had exceptional as a poet with very fine traits who the millenary western tradition and the number of lines of each on the French romanticism. But of a Peruvian poetry tradition teachers who instructed him well could be remembered just by a with indigenous roots, which he stanza was variable. on theme and substance, Melgar that continues to this day… in in classical cultures. Talented, he portion of what he wrote, where was so familiar with. In his poetry, That kind of song, undoubt- is not only the first Peruvian the Cesar Vallejo of The Black was able to translate Ovid and perhaps the most important is the Melgar also expresses his concern edly, was in the mind of Melgar, romantic, but the first in South Heralds, in the vigorous poetry of Virgil with ease and dignity, as so-called Yaravíes, through which for the environment, or what who was so accustomed to the America. And certainly his Mario Florian, in the decanted has been noted by Germán Torres he genuinely touched the hearts is sometimes called landscape Spanish diction whose rhetorical chants did not spring to life spon- poetry of Francisco Carrillo. Lara and Alberto Tauro. When he of his countrymen. Melgar´s attitude, with a slight variation structure he mastered so well. taneously, they are a combination This is fundamentally love poetry was roughly 20 years old, he made name is associated with this type though. He is not simply someone Moreover, he was frequently in of his intrinsic way of being and concerned about setting pastoral a trip to Lima where he came in of popular poetry… a poetry read who admires nature as an out- contact with the Spanish-Arab his popular romanticism that can ambiance and space, privileging touch with the conspiratorial at- and studied in academic centers, sider; he is someone who actually lore which personified so well the be traced back to the Quechua images and metaphors drawn mosphere of this city; this marked but mostly an art that lives in was born in a particular place Archpriest of Hita with zegels. tradition and which have ensued from nature. These compositions a turning point in his life. He the minds of people. It is quite and chants to nature without But the songs of Melgar, later such new original carols. That that Melgar called songs and that dismissed the habits that would common in moonlit nights in the detachment of those who are called yaravíes, as stated above, such hymns were first called tradition later called yaravíes, have guaranteed him a quiet life, his hometown Arequipa to see overwhelmed by nature. Like few have a different breath, a muse poem-songs and that later they mainly recount unrequited love according to the beliefs of the his countrymen, guitar in hand, poets, Melgar is earthbound; he that is not Spanish. And, it is became known as ‘yaravíes’ is a and, particularly, focusing on time, and instead engaged in civil chant his songs beneath a balcony, knows well his surroundings, a not a matter of terminology; it is minor point, although we have the phase in which the lover action. It is at this time that he courting girls in this new age and land where he spent most of his a taste of something different-a mentioned it here because it is has almost lost his lady, while wrote «Al autor del mar» ("To the begging that they do not disdain short, yet hastened, life and a trait that distinguishes Melgar´s a little known fact. Melgar un- holding on to a glimmer of hope. author of the sea”), an ode that Mariano Melgar. the new Melgar wannabes. land on which his poetry lives as compositions from all of those of derstands perfectly the popular It is the pain of separation and has withstood the neglect of time: Trying to be fair, we must say a permanent flame. his time and the many attributed feelings, the direct expression of a confrontation with the increas- "The entire vast sea comes at us, / that all poetry written by Melgar to him. A man of many obliga- popular Peruvian muse, whether ingly distant possibility of a love as if it were going to swallow the that is worth mentioning here all in the period from 1809 to and published in a critical edition The poet of the Yaravíes tions, of so many intellectual and Quechua or Spanish. affair becoming true. The symbol continent / sets off its current / just to emphasize on how famous 1813. While in Lima, as he tried is, in general, of persistent quality Now, we shall make some com- political duties, and who died at The few Quechua composi- of the dove as the beloved girl in an endless hotbed." The text, he actually is: he is said to have to complete his law studies, his while remarking that he was a ments on the originality of Melgar age 25, could not have had time tions have survived from the time has a longstanding presence in though accomplished, is still not learned to read by age three and estrus vibrated with high pitches. young man who died at age 25, in the so-called "yaravíes." This to write so many 'yaravíes" despite of the Inca Empire, the famous the Quechua poetry of Peru, and profoundly original and may well to have received his first tonsure At the time, Lima was a hotbed when he had just discovered his word is a generic name that was his feverish writing talent. But "harauis," are songs of conflict or wherever Peruvians are they link have been written by any author by age eight. The truth is that he of conflict: at issue were the profound originality. In Peruvian first used by Mateo Paz Soldan in time has wanted the word "yaraví" war, or rustic songs or love songs. it to Mariano Melgar, our first born elsewhere. studied philosophy and theology, Courts of Cadiz. On the spotlight poetry, we owe Melgar the early his Geografía del Perú (Geography to remain associated with Melgar Despite their differences, they truly original Republican poet. There is a legend about Melgar that he worked as a teacher of is Jose Baquíjano y Carrillo, a poems specifically dedicated to of Peru) in 1868 and he has since so much so as to form a unit as share their orality, sonorous dic- that is repeated again and again Latin and rhetoric, physics and well-known intellectual who had women, and more particularly made fortune not only in literary is the case with the two sides of tion, choice of words chosen by * Former President of the Peruvian Academy in different research papers and mathematics, and philosophy, reached fame in 1781, when he to a woman, the legendary Silvia, circles, but also among the people a coin. This is happening even all and, reportedly, a certain sad- of Language.

CHASQUI 4 CHASQUI 5 RESCUE BY SALAZAR BONDY FELIPE GUAMAN POMA DE AYALA, A PERUVIAN CLASSIC Guillermo Niño de Guzmán* FOUR CENTURIES AFTER A look at the work1 of one of the most important literary figures of the 1950s Generation. THE NUEVA CORÓNICA ifty years after the death of actually a unique book in Peruvian Sebastián Salazar Bondy literature since its proposes a novel F(1924-1965), his legacy is now structure in which the adventures Carlos Araníbar* reviving after having been confined, of the protagonist are interspersed unfairly, in a sort of literary limbo. with independent accounts that As is known, this multifaceted complement and clarify the mean- 1 writer was a remarkable advocate of ings of the core issue: the disen- 400 years have gone by since Huaman Poma , a grouchy and restless son of the Andes, in his book Nueva corónica y the Peruvian culture, but had the chantment of Latin Americans, buen gobierno (New chronicle and good government), whose drawings visitors admire today, depicted, through pictures bad idea of dying too early, when who attracted by the myth of Paris, he was in the middle of his creative actually succumb like moths to and words, the evils that the European invasion brought to his homeland and the misery of a subjugated race. His work maturity. A poet, playwright, nov- light. It is a pity that Salazar Bondy hibernated in a dark remote Danish cabinet in Copenhagen, until Paul Rivet published it in Paris in 1936. Since then, after elist, essayist, critic, and journalist, did not develop further his sto- pioneering essays such as those of Richard Pietschmann or Jose Varallanos, the fame of such an Indian historian continues Salazar Bondy covered all genres ry-telling skills, but was left aside as with overwhelming energy and he was tempted by the novel genre to grow. Among many, suffice to mention the notable studies by Rolena Adorno and Raquel Chang-Rodríguez or the curiosity. His attitude juxtaposes as evidenced in his Alférez Arce, unmatched critical summary by Pablo Macera. And valuable ongoing inquiries by Dr. Alfredo Alberti, which have discovered greatly his thin appearance and teniente Arce, capitán Arce… (Ensign poor health, which did not prevent Arce, Lieutenant Arce, Captain unpublished documents that specialists are beginning to examine. him from staying active until the Arce...), which he would never day of his death at age 41. finish (posthumous edition: 1969). A conspicuous member of the A year before his death, the writer 1950 Generation, he was a prodigy. sketched a lucid and devastating Before turning 20, he had already essay Lima, la horrible (Lima, the published two books of poems, horrible city) (1964), a title that Rótulo de la esfinge (Sign of the referred to the relentless qualifier Sphinx) and Bahía del dolor (Bay coined by the poet César Moro of Pain), which he later relegated and which had lured him to the to oblivion as he considered them capital city. In this book, Salazar still incipient signs of his lyrical Bondy gave a controversial image of vein, which he would continue the City of Kings and shattered its developing with persistent passion legend as a colonial Arcadia. More- until the end of his days. We must over, he denounced the abuses of remember that Salazar Bondy be- a social class that believed itself to longs to an avant-garde generation be the owner of the country and at- in Latin American poetry, with tacked the criollismo mindset, hotbed voices so outstanding as Eielson, of injustice, discrimination, and Sologuren, Varela, and Belli. In this informality. The book has not lost context, his contributions were less its force, even though the city is not dazzling, but there is no doubt that the same. His judgments, accurate his voice was genuine. Published and categorical, clearly anticipated the same year he died, El tacto de la the chaos that prevails today. araña (The Spider´s Touch) is, per- Finally, we would like to mention haps, his best collection of poems. that Salazar Bondy was a versatile Looking back, it is surprising that Sebastián Salazar Bondy. journalist, one of the best in the a generation as bright as that of Se- history of the national press, skilled bastian Salazar Bondy could thrive to embrace this profession, even Sebastián was to us? How many of not only for literary and art criti- in Peru. We must remember that if it seemed a chimera. In one of us dared to become writers thanks cism, but also for political analysis. the Peru of the 1940s and 1950s his essays, the Nobel Prize winner to his powerful legacy?". There was nothing he did not know was very gloomy for the arts and remembers his mentor and friend Another area that Salazar Bondy about. Sharp and combative, he did for literature. In practice, there with such eloquent words worth developed, but went unnoticed, not shun controversy. His eagerness were no galleries or publishers, quoting them verbatim: was his narrative. His first book of and curiosity were irrepressible, as and choosing to become a writer or "There was almost nothing and short stories, Náufragos y sobrevivi- corroborated with his articles La painter was a crazy idea since there he tried to do everything; around entes (Shipwrecked and survivors), luz tras la memoria (Light pursuing were no incentives or opportunities him there was only desolate empti- published out in 1954, the same memory) (a two-volume edition by for such a career to prosper. It is for ness and he devoted himself-body year that his cohorts Enrique Con- Alexander Susti; Lapix, 2014), that this reason that several members and soul- to fill such void. Where grains and Carlos Eduardo Zavaleta dazzled readers due to its agile and of the 1950s Generation sought there was no theater [...]; he was published Lima, Lima, hora cero y incisive prose and his insight and so avidly for new horizons; this a playwright. Where there was La batalla y otros cuentos (Lima, zero interpretive rigor. was the case of Eielson, Szyszlo, no performing arts school or hour and the Battle and other short Sebastian Salazar Bondy died on Varela, Piqueras, Sologuren, Ri- theater companies, he sponsored stories (the following year, Julio July 4, 1965, when his last article beyro, Loayza, and Vargas Llosa, the creation of a drama club and Ramon Ribeyro would star with Los (a review of the novel Los geniecillos the youngest of the group, who was a professor and even theater gallinazos sin plumas (The featherless dominicales- Sunday Elves by Julio migrated to Europe. director. Where there was no one vultures). Ramon Ribeyro) was published. Salazar Bondy did not cross the At- to edited drama, he was his own In other words, he was one of the He died on duty; he was writing lantic (he would though a few years editor. Where there was no literary pioneers of the neo-realist move- a chronicle in the newsroom of later, with a scholarship that would criticism, he devoted himself to re- ment that reinvigorated storytelling Oiga, weekly news magazine where take him to France) but he moved viewing books published abroad, to in Peru. he worked at the time. According to Argentina, where he experienced commenting any new poem, short Rural migrations into the capital to his friend Francisco Igartua, di- the creative effervescence of Buenos story or novel in Peru, and to en- and the subsequent social con- rector of the magazine, he dropped Aires for five years. Upon returning couraging, mentoring, and helping flicts changed the landscape; such dead of a heart attack after typing to Lima in 1952, he displayed his young emerging authors. Where circumstances impacted the vision this sentence: "Life would be lovely tireless work, ready to shake off the there were no art critics, he was of young people who were ready if only it had soundtrack." cultural stagnation that gripped the an art critic, lecturer, exhibition to release their first literary pieces. city. And he did, first in the field of organizer [...]. He promoted maga- Salazar Bondy remained attentive * He has published books of stories Caballos de theater as a playwright and a critic, zines and contests, stirred up and to the transformation that altered medianoche (Midnight Horses) (1984), Una mujer and then in journalism, he emerged the dynamics of the city, but unfor- no hace un verano (One woman does not make a created controversy about literature summer) (1995) and Algo que nunca serás (Some- as one of the most influential while writing poems, plays, essays, tunately did not elaborate more on thing that you will never be) (2007). writers of his time. and short stories and continued, this rich theme in his fiction stories. 1 Sebastian Salazar Bondy. La luz tras la memoria As Vargas Llosa has pointed out, tirelessly, being omnipresent-he Nevertheless, his narrative vigor re- (The light behind memory). Newspaper articles in a country hostile to anyone who became one hundred different mained alive, as seen in Pobre gente about literature and culture (1945-1965). Lima, wished to become a writer, Salazar persons with the same passion [...]. de Paris (Poor People of Paris (1958), Lapix Publishers, 2014. From November 2014 to April 2015, the House of Literature sponsored Bondy was a "sparkling example" Could anyone in my generation which is not a mere collection of the "Sebastián Salazar Bondy. The Vulture Lord who prompted many young people deny how stimulating, how decisive stories but an organic volume. It is Returns to Lima" exhibition. 1 The author of this article prefers to write Huamán Poma with «h» due to Quechua phonetics; while other authors prefer to use «g», as the chronicler himself did.

CHASQUI 6 CHASQUI 7 n the past, some myopically chal- outlived him. No more Michelangelo, lenged the historic value of the yet the Sistine Chapel is still here. HP INueva corónica (New Chronicle), is no longer with us, but we can still alleging it being a Quechua-Spanish hear his cry in the wilderness, pun- hybrid, its loopholes, inconsistencies, gent and catonian, coming from the and trivial chronology errors.Today, depth of time. the figure of Huaman Poma (HP), a If every individual has a little bit key witness of colonial oppression in more or less of Plato than Aristole, the Peruvian viceroyalty, away from apart from any rhetoric nuances, unneeded town squares and busts, there are two types of discourses: a) swaying alike from scholarly analysis in Aristotle-style, walking by foot and different institutions, to sport centers, idling through a gray chain which and to cheerful encounters that make links syllogisms and meanders b) him an icon of the civil heroism that Plato-style, going in a straight line took place in our national history. and full of depictions imagining HP is a kind of Andean Quixote color and movement. HP's speech is whose dreams and failures, adventures of the second type, but at every step and afflictions are told by a bucolic he links concept and drawing. In this and witty Sancho. A Quixote, pen in line of flight, his illustrations are hand, stripped off the hypocrisy and not, as they say, graphical addition masks of the old and exclusive Span- to a written text. On the contrary, ish legislation of 'the two republics' — the text highlights the original image the republic of Indians, who were the and explains its meaning. HP yearns economic base of the new social pyra- to capture the future reader through mid and where the Spaniards of the his eyes and not through his mind. If Republic were at the top and which the calm reasoning of a writer talks feasted, ate, and lived off the former—. closely and into the ears of his follow- With the subtlety of a psychologist, ers, he is speaking to his followers´ avant la letter, but with steely voice, intelligence, intuitiveness directly HP condemned the thousand faces touches the heart. Put in crude meta- of colonial rule: the common Indian phor, HP traps and wraps us up with vexed to the limit, the tax imposed images, an act similar to that of an on a whim, the conqueror with no instant flash, even before his written other law or limitation than his own explanation, rethought and delayed greed, a yanacona-servant attached to capture us. HP matches illustration a Spanish master, forced mining labor and text and, like the heads and called mita, reducing them to villages tails of an old medal, he presents us facilitating counting and fiscal control two parallel versions: drawings for of andicola, mandatory service in illiterate, words for those who can tambos (inns), the post office, roads, read. If the perceptive reader can link construction of temples and houses them and restores the semantic unit, for the Spaniards, the spoiler encomen- hunky-dory! dero, bribery and bribery turned into The outstanding scholar, Raul a coexistence mechanisms, the deceiv- and which he often softens with a Rabelais, Voltaire and Swift, Twain received the attention they deserve. It Porras Barrenechea used to say that ing testimonies, a notary who legalizes joke or witticism that ridicules any and Gogol ... is worth recalling every quid pro quo in injustice seems less hard when it is the theft of goods and farms, abusive colonial aggravation. The great social From such a quasi-stealth view- idiomatic expressions (HP 397), bilin- a male voice that denounces and miner, a fawning and complacent cura- critics have been great humorists. Un- point, HP has plenty to offer us. He ar- gual and parodic sermons (624-626), condemns it. This is what HP, the ca (leader), the prostitute and mistress like the Horace-style castigat ridendo ranges, without tension, the bitterness talks of black slaves, "bad reprimands indigenous, actually did. This is what indigenous women, bad avid and sen- mores (laughing punishes customs), of tormented social criticism with gal- and threats" (726), dialogues and con- he accomplished at an ungrateful time sual doctrine preacher, the religious which he takes from a joke about cen- lant mockery, surprising us over and versations (728-740). Or caustic jibes with complex and beloved collective orders announcing the good news that sorship, criticism with an air of hoax over. For example, if you go to page about conceited and false "graduates", biography, uninterrupted over time seduces HP –true devotee of the Virgen is a condemnation disguised as a sat- 550 of Nueva Corónica (New chroni- "licensed," and "gifts". Or that guy, and so truly dear to us which we call de la Peña, eventually concealed under ire, for example, Das Narrenschift by cle), you would be delighted with the indigenous mayor of the community, Peru. Following the penultimate shad- the names of Christopher = which Brant (The Ship of Fools, 1494) or Mo- fabled conversation of a Spaniard who, at given intervals, serves half ows of the night, injured by the rays included Christ and Leon = poma, in riae encomium by Erasmus (In Praise couple about the comfortable future serving of wine to women, while one of dawn, such shadows retract and Quechua, but betrayed every day… of Folly, 1511). Like the common lived of their children, "what Christian full serving to men... and this closes flee, HP´s lighted torch resembles a Without transposing the customs denominator of the big mockers of Spaniards think of having many chil- the charity event a little less thirsty but glowing cone that illuminates like a sterile laments, HP would be another such never superfluous tribe of alche- dren;" this dialogue actually has a stage a little bit tipsier than the rest of his renewed fiat lux Plato's cave of our moaner. But crossing the Rubicon mists that turn any solemn act into a structure and notorious features inher- flock ... etc. nationality. and crisp scheme of social change that cartoon, friendly and joyful clan of ent to cheerful comedy-this is just one If certain readings are like a magic A few decades ago, Blanca Varela, obsesses him-the "good government" - Aristophanes and Menander, Plautus of the many samples that reveal HP’s carpet taking readers to exotic places Abelardo Oquendo and I reviewed provides an improvement that solves and Terence, Chaucer, Boccaccio and keen sense of humor. Though visible and strange mazes in this risky time diverse chronicles. It is uncommon to community work and other forms of the miserable condition of the black the works of several Peruvian writers the problem he complained about Aretino, Cervantes, Quevedo and in many of his passages, they have not travel we call history, the discerning stumble into light passages and a little mutual aid. This 'mixed chronicle' — slaves. He praises the chief of Lautaro that could be published by the Fondo reader will feel such dialogues as an oa- bit uncivil as those of HP. Although like the spark of Chang-Rodríguez is for the stubborn resistance in the war de Cultura Economica, run at the sis enabling them to ignore rows and intelligence-not mediocrity- and good enviably simple— weapon of protest, of Arauco and gives his to one of the time by Blanca in Lima. She had al- complaints, can revitalize the water humor always make good friends, brave and harsh criticism calling a faithful dogs who accompanies him ready identified four aces: Garcilaso, flowing from an aquifer with a taste HP´s high IQ in never challenged. bread a bread and eventually resorting on his final painful journey to Lima, Mariátegui, Vallejo, Arguedas… and TRAVELING AUTHOR of Huaman Poma-style, which distin- Yet, to hold those passages as volatile to lodicule and laughter attenuates where he imagined the king himself since there is no bad in having a fifth guishes hyperbole, mockery, mockery, samples of wit and sparkle is falling the complaint of a pious who changes lived. one, I suggested including Huaman The Inca Garcilaso Cultural Center of the Ministry of and wit, without ever being virulent or short of all he actually accomplished. his impotence for a smile. Philip II (Felipe II) ... Poma. She agreed. I was already reviv- Foreign Affairs organizes traveling exhibition on the reproachful. Everywhere you look, there is no The chronicle of the Iberian inva- Petrarca says that «cosa bella é ing his storied colonial frieze painted Nueva corónica So often we accept the obvious Procrustean bed on which to place sion is truly synergistic fusion-fantasy, mortal passa e non dura» (beautiful with bitterness and violence, sadness without even noticing them; we tend the original work of HP, odd man of idealistic story that longs to legitimize things are ephemeral and short-lived). and tenderness. In a grayish foreword to take for granted such sections. the Indian short stories. It is not a the conquest and which inherently Perhaps the eternity of the human written half a century earlier, I dared The exhibition includes all of the 398 pages with drawings Prisoners of the stiffness and prud- letter to the King nor a pre-structured avoids any mea culpa. The Nueva beings, in-transit passengers, are just judge HP as a passionate, contentious, included in the manuscript (although their original size may ishness, a common climax in Indian chronicle. Nor is it a laudatory text corónica blossoms as its antithesis. three or four generations. HP, along and tough character, the indigenous have been altered) interspersed with 800 additional pages of text. chronicles, the burlesque tirades of flatter those in power nor a learned But HP is not devoid of fantasy. Like with his life experience, drank the castes, and his book as "one of the Regarding the importance of these drawings, Rolena Adorno HP are neglected and cornered. Such speech before the irreversible fact of our neat and inimitable Garcilaso, suggesting lymph from the lips of his most important" ever written in Peru. states: "If the reader stops at each of the 398 drawings and reads short texts are fun virtual anthologies the European invasion, a sort of social HP invents a mother of noble caste. parents and grandparents. And upon I am honored today to rectify my state- the prose attached to them, he will see that this method-where that even for the seasoned reader are a upheaval that slows the development He called himself 'Prince'-rather than telling us about their customs and be- ment: "It is the most important book the visual text precedes the written text- was to Guaman Poma, breath of fresh air that oxygenates the of the civilizations of the New World principal, and attached himself to the liefs, celebrations and funerals, songs ever written in Peru." not only his composition system, but also the essence of the con- bewitching atmosphere of contempo- in violent eruption that authors like Yaros dynasty of Huanuco; this is yet and dances of the many ethnic groups ception of his work. The illustrations anticipate, dramatized, rary rapporteurs. Without El carnero Hamilton, Lipschutz, Todorov, Ador- to be demonstrated. But his literary of the Inca time, we seem to hear the * One of the most important Peruvian and "make present" the book's contents; they are the preliminary (The ram) by Rodriguez Freyle, orig- no, Sejourné, de Beer, Magasich-Ai- writings, more naïve than murky, do whispering echo of an old local guide historians of the second half of the 20th text of the work, not side "artwork" [...]. The reader who pays inally from Bogota –a preview of the rola, Amado, Chomski, Greenblatt, not hide his clear perception of the co- who speaks of familiar things, whose century. This year the National Library of attention to these differences will appreciate the fact that the Traduciones (Traditions) by Ricardo Izard, see as one of the greatest trag- lonial status or enervate his chauvinist remoteness and absence increase the Peru published its monumental annotated drawings determine the course and content of the exhibition Palma where it is not easy to distin- edies of history. Like an earthquake, perspective. Using elegiac tone, he bittersweet melancholy of having lost edition of the Nueva corónica y buen gobierno. and alternating spaces assigned to prose restricted the extent of guish story from sarcasm, tale, sham, overturning traditions and secular gives an account of the 1532 slaughter something good. 2 TN: or minka: community work for the his written expression." The exhibition pays tribute to Guaman gossip- and excluding sections that hierarchies, a "world upside" in which in Cajamarca. Great works outlive men. The benefit of the community Poma and his exceptional work, an especially valuable source recall the Mesoamerican chronicles of there is "no remedy", such event brings He strongly asserts that neither anonymous creators of the Paleolithic 3 TN: form of trade traditionally practiced in of information for researching about the Andean civilization Bernal Días, the one about the father of about a wild racket of emulation and Toledo nor Pizarro were authorized times have vanished, except for the Ve- indigenous communities, where members and courageous and forceful plea against the abuses the poor Aguado, the one about the Andaluzan extensive individualism and the phi- to kill an Andean king. He considers nus of Willendorf, the cave paintings help each other as needed and weak suffered "in their own land", in the midst of deep and girls by Borregán or by Núnez Cabeza losophy of new comers: hurray for the the new masters as intruders, mitimaes, of Altamira or Ajanta. And there are painful transformations experienced by Peru in his time. de Vaca, hopeless dreamer, the novel vanquisher! An event that annihilates from Castilla: the legitimate owners of also the Pyramids, Stonehenge, Machu 4 TN: forced-labor draft imposed by the reader receives with pleasure the fibs and destroys community ties built the land are those to whom God gave Picchu, Teotihuacan. Without Euclid, Spaniards on the indigenous inhabitants of that relieve the dense tessitura of such through millions of years of Andean them in the first place. He shows gen- we continue to study geometry. No Peru history, minca2, aini3, mita4, ranti5, uine understanding and empathy for more Shakespeare, but King Lear has 5 TN: equality

CHASQUI 8 CHASQUI 9 BRUS RUBIO CHURAY THE AMAZON WITHOUT BOUNDARIES BERNASCONI OR María Eugenia Yllia* THE ART OF ENGRAVING She ponders on the work of the artist Huitoto-Murui, born in the community of Paucarquillo, The graphic work of such a remarkable Limenian artist in a retrospective exhibition. Loreto in 1983. "Indigenism, without a doubt, marked the f there is one feature that beginning of a unique chapter in the history redefines the parameters of of Latin American engraving. Besides woodcut Icontemporary art, it is social prints by José Sabogal, Julia Codesido, and mobility and the possibility for Camilo Blas, the works of other plastic artists artists to subvert the notion of such as Teófilo Allaín, Domingo Pantigoso, periphery. Brus Rubio-Churay and Julio Camino Sánchez are worth highlight- embodies this condition and not ing. We believe these latter artists reached the just because the genre of his art highest levels of production in this field, even has been resized out of its context, though they were primarily considered painters. but also because his repertoire There are other notable engravers who have usually composed of entities and developed an equally memorable woodcut work, like Jorge Ara, Joel Meneses, Félix Rebolledo, epic mythological beings of the and Alberto Ramos. Among the youngest, we Huitoto-Murui cultural tradition can mention Martín Moratillo, Marco Albu- is enriched with imaginary charac- querque, Israel Tolentino, and Luis Torres. ters and elements that account for And among all of them, Carlos Bernasconi the cultural dynamics in which he (Lima, 1924) stands out for his prolific work, is immersed. thematic diversity, and technical innovations Boasting his audacity as a visu- (such as his contribution to colored engraving) al hunter, the artist has asserted and for having devoted no less than sixty years in his recent works details of his to engraving. The retrospective exhibition of his personal cartography. Lima and woodcut work confirmed his relevance to the Paris, places that make up his history of Peruvian engraving and how he serves artistic career, are scenarios of sit- as a link between the woodcut of indigenous uations, encounters, and aesthetic subjects and the one practiced by notable con- confrontations translated into temporary engravers loyal to a figurative school paintings. Rubio-Churay offers in during the second half of the twentieth century, Pasaporte amazónico (Amazon Pass- several of them almost exclusively dedicated to port) a bold and exotic composi- wood engraving." tion where the Parisian landscape Espantapájaros, 1976. (Scarecrow), 1976. * Excerpt from a paper by Mario Munive, in the catalog Carlos with the Eiffel Tower is surround- Bernasconi. Antología xilográfica 1953-2015 (Carlos Ber- ed by the heavenly, lush Amazoni- nasconi. Woodblock Anthology 1953-2015), Lima, North an environment. The presence of American-Peruvian Cultural Institute, 2015. two pucuneros or blowgun blowers redefines a landmark of Western modernity with regional symbols R+ikai, llegar con fuerza. (arriving with force) and also resizes local mores by turning Paris into a tropical city. Particularly striking is the deliber- ate impression of light and color that fills the Parisian sky and the animals present throughout the entire composition, toucans, lazy bears, parrots, and reddish dolphins held by a couple of chil- dren and others dancing in a row around a transformed version of the Seine River. A key and recurring element of his works is the insertion of El tronco, 1955. (The trunk) his self-portrait. Rubio-Churay depicts himself wearing western outfits and macaw feather crown-a traditional object evoking his eth- nic origin Huitoto Murui- which Invitación. (Invitation). Pasaporte amazónico. (Amazon Passport). he so proudly wears like his real passport to the world. The mix artist appears with his body paint- him as creator: painting as a a photographer capturing the of clothing is an analogy to the ed jidoro or huito and a crown of means of representation and ex- scene, typical characters of art heterogeneity of the contempo- feathers. This is a visual discourse hibitions as spaces for social gath- openings that Brus captured on rary indigenous identity and the that enhances the values of respect ering and legitimization of artists. canvas. Vegetation fills the gallery complex relationship within tra- and protection of citizens through The allusion to his nation is quite walls and Huitoto-Murui geomet- ditional communities, with which intercultural encounter in a fes- telling through the presence of ric symbols moving on the floor the artist is well familiar. tive and harmonious ambiance. the Peruvian flag and emblem, are a metaphor of what happens Similarly, he presents R+Ikai, The presence of children who, whose key elements have been in contemporary art: the Amazon llegar con fuerza (arriving with like putis or angels floating in the replaced by others native to the is not only a geographical space force), in which an energetic sky, reveals a characteristic that Amazon region: a Huitoto crown but a different way of looking at group of Indians, with mitayo has accompanied and enriched and a cornucopia pouring fish in- the world. or game meat, leaves, fruits, his artistic language: the use of stead of coins, alluding to another and other foods typical of such visual elements of Western art. kind of wealth. The painting is * Licentiate degree in History of Art with an MA in Anthropology and Museum Studies traditional village festivals of the In Invitación (Invitation), the supported by Atlantean children; and Cultural Management. Huitoto- Murui people, stand in presence of three Huitotos, who here again the artist uses conven- The Inca Garcilaso Cultural Center of literally go outside the limits of tions of Western art. The compo- the Ministry of Foreign Affairs recently front of the Government Palace organized the exhibition «Tránsitos. De Pau- in the Plaza Mayor of Lima. Once the winding frames, reveals a sition includes a woman holding carquillo a París, ida y vuelta». (Traveling from again resorting to self-portrait, the theme that has always interested a glass looking at the viewer and Paucarquillo to Paris and back). Arriero, 1977. (Horesman) Urbanos, 2011. (Urban people)

CHASQUI 10 CHASQUI 11 and, suddenly, face the onslaught from the highest echelons of power. FRANCISCO LOMBARDI of female actions that jeopardize He returns to this period of Peru- the strength of such ties. Women, vian history in Mariposa negra (2006)- in his films, are promises of sexual an adaptation of the novel Grandes problems. Pantaleón ends up su- Miradas (Great looks) by Alonso rrendering because of his passion Cueto. It is the story of a young lady CAREER PATH for the ‘Colombian girl’ and, like whose life is destroyed as a result Lieutenant Gamboa in La ciudad y of the murder of her boyfriend; a los perros and Vitín Luna in La boca political crime against a judge inves- Ricardo Bedoya* del lobo, he is crumpled by his agency: tigating such official corruption. The his failure is a result of his desire for black butterfly of revenge drives the a woman and his infringing military woman on a mission of punishment Renowned Peruvian film director awarded the National Culture Prize. An overview of his filmography. regulations. and personal sacrifice. Lombardi, Adapted from the novel by confident in using huis clos, cannot the Chilean Alberto Fuguet, Tinta find the time or the ways of increa- roja (Red Ink) (2000) is a story of sing suspense required by the plot. rancisco Lombardi (Tacna, learning, but also a portrait of the His latest films, Un cuerpo desnudo 1949) is one of the few film world of the tabloids. The story (A naked body) (2008), Ella (She) directors who has managed to describes the relationship between Mariposa negra (Black Butterfly) (2006). (2010), and Dos besos (Two Kisses) F a journalism intern and a seasoned (Troika) (2015) show the same traits. secure a career in Peru. He began in 1974 and continues today: in 2015, editor of bloody chronicles. Some The camera focuses on the confi- he premiered Dos Besos (Two Kisses) elements recall La boca del lobo: we nement of a few characters and the (a Troika)-his seventeenth film. Such witness the journey of a young man conflicts raised by the presence of continuity has allowed his work to who discovers inconsistencies in his women who set off a crisis within become international and has even career choice and ends up dealing a group of friends or a couple. Ella released some of his films in theaters with frustration. and Dos besos (Troika) are camera abroad and to win prizes at various Learning a trade goes hand in films, with intimate tone in which festivals. In 2014, he received a re- hand with the chronicle of a perso- ethical issues are discussed, with cognition for a lifetime devoted to nal disappointment. Tinta roja is a varying degrees of success. this art: the National Culture Prize chronicle of urban squalor, a lear- In a mature stage of its life, Lom- of Peru. ning experience of what daily horror bardi tries new alternatives: less dialo- Lombardi first came in touch actually is. gue to support actions and relies on with filmmaking back in the late The movement of journalists the revealing power of gaze. In Ella, 1960s, when he studied at Santa covering bloody news around town the character played by actor Paul Fe School of Cinema and later at is shot by a moving and hectic came- Vega is followed for 45 minutes by the Filmmaking and Television ra. Tinta roja is very different from a silent camera. In Dos besos (Troika), Program of the University of Lima. Lombardi´s common filmmaking silences speak louder than words. In parallel, he wrote film reviews for style as it is based on stable frames, Pantaleón y las visitadoras (Captain Pantoja and the Special Services) (1999). We will look forward to the paths Correo newspaper and the magazine field-counter-field planning, and his new films will take him to. Hablemos de Cine (Let´s Talk about continuous scenery setting. He depicts a fresco, with a 'coral' Each one dramatizes the feelings of Films) since 1968. Lombardi´s twelfth film, Ojos nature portraying the final days of distress, discomfort or fear raised by * Film critic and professor at the University of que no ven (No pain in ignorance) Lima. He has published EL cine peruano en Thanks to the legal mechanisms the Alberto Fujimori Administration the videos taken by presidential advi- tiempos digitales Entorno, memoria y representa- (2003), is also the largest and most (1990-2000). In 155 minutes of film, ser Vladimiro Montesinos, showing ciones (Peruvian filmmaking in digital times. geared towards promoting the Environment, memory and characters). Peruvian film industry enacted in ambitious of all his movies. six stories unfold simultaneously. the organized corruption articulated a law passed in 1972, he began ma- king short films that preceded his Francisco Lombardi. (2006). first long film, Muerte al amanecer (Death at Dawn) (1977), a story are important names in his films. the narrative of Julio Ramon Ribe- or Ciudad y los perros, Lombardi adds describingthe last hours of a crimi- They embody characters facing yro in some of those films, especially to the original story, condensed by nal on the death row. Based on a intense crises. Lombardi´s films are in Los amigos. screenwriters Pollarolo and Mon- SOUNDS OF PERU criminal case, this coproduction records of such critical processes. In 1994, Lombardi premiers Sin cloa, recurring themes in his films: with Venezuela described, in the As evidenced in Maruja en el infier- compassion (No Compassion), a free the protagonist's emotional learning; Julio Pérez electronic chimes or compositions that emigrated to the United States, where, sent themselves in the most authentic style of coral movie, the agents of no (Maruja in Hell) (1983) and La version of Crime and Punishment conflicts caused by the turpentine PERHAPS TOMORROW join a violin and a cello in some cases, since then, he has been working in a way possible and to be present through an administration of justice looking ciudad y los Perros (The Time of the by Dostoyevsky, and, in 1996, he role of female characters; the critical (Play Music and Video, 2015, and a mixture of voices as an expressive musical and dance band promoting Pe- their own merits and the quality of for a scapegoat, called " Armendariz Hero) (1985). But in his next film, premiered his most accomplished vision of the moral standards of the www.julio-perez.com) element in themselves, missing them ruvian music. The result of his efforts their creations and interpretations. Monster,” who was condemned by La Boca del lobo (The Lion’s Den) movie Bajo la piel (Under the Skin), Lima bourgeoisie. with the variety of textures present are fifteen musical albums, of which (Abraham Padilla). the frivolous and indolent Limenian (1988), he dramatizes a painful epi- perhaps the longest of all. The dramatic climax of the film As declared by the composer himself, in the album. There is no need to the most recent is Golden Album, society of the fifties-a lynching "le- sode in the fight against the terrorist The grim criminal history Sin confronts the boy who discovers this material seeks to become a vehi- look for traces of rhythms, chimes or a sort of anthology of the successes galized" because of his social pariah group the Shining Path and Caídos compassion shows a thoughtful reflec- his homosexual desire with his cle through which he can explore his elements of Peruvian music in this achieved by some of his earlier work. condition. del cielo (Fallen from the Sky) (1990). tion on the violence inflicted in the father´s symbolic and repressive inner truth to invent freedom. This production. This "external truth" will The ten tracks follow a fairly uniform Los amigos (Friends) (1978), his Such crises are depicted through name of an absolute and perverse rules. Despite the painful learning carefully collected album gathers the remain the task of La Sarita, a project style and sound, centered around the second film, combines the Cuentos the visual expression of deteriorated idea of justice: concern in Peru in path and the depiction of the loss of latest musical work of Julio Perez, sin- that continues working on in parallel. combined work of the pan flutes, inmorales (Immoral Tales), it is film places where the stories take place; the early 1990s, when the country the protagonist´s "innocence", No se ger and leader of the group La Sarita, Instead, listeners can readily identify strings (charango, guitar), and percus- such as the bottle wash room serving was consumed in the fire of violence lo digas a nadie is the director´s less a longtime Peruvian band known for traces of iconic bands of the 1990s sion. In addition, we find sounds of based on episodes consisting of three such as Heroes del Silencio (Heroes of violin or samples of animal sounds, more movies. In 1980, he directed for the actions of Maruja en el infierno, provoked by the barbaric actions of critical or acute film. its rock-fusion. In this case, Perez, along with his highly personal angels Silence) and especially Bunbury in the among others, that make up a unique Muerte de un magnate (Death of a the military areas in La ciudad y los the Maoist terrorist group the Shi- Adapted from a novel by Var- interpretive voice work, though, from palette in which its regular tones find Wealthy Man) which starts with a na- Perros, and La Boca del Lobo, as well as ning Path and the armed response gas Llosa, Panteleón y las visitadoras and demons, creates an album full of emotions, loaded with evolutionary the beginning of his career, Perez has different nuances and generate varied rrative, though without mentioning scenarios of extravagance and margi- to fight against such scourge. The Captain Pantoja and the Special used this influence to etch his own musical environments. The songs the assassination of Luis Banchero nalization that are the backdrops of protagonist, Ramon Romano (Diego Services (1999) is a fable taking place substance, as a testimony of his own version of the "art of living", to share style of singing. We also hear electric included in the album are original Rossi, a prominent fishing busi- such intertwined stories as those of Bertie), representing Raskólnikov, is in the Amazon and showing the rise guitars with loud "quasi metal" sounds compositions, most them instrumen- Caídos del cielo, such topographies the sketch of those impatient young and fall of a community. The story such feelings without shame or hum- nessman in the Peru of the 1950s bleness with his audience. This dras- and light percussion touches of pro- tals, and are strongly influenced by and 1960s. allude to the morbid environment spirits who had limited opportu- of army officer Pantaleón Pantoja tic self-assessment is embodied in a gressive rock. The album was recorded the author's feelings of religious awe From such early titles, the direc- and decaying society that affected nities for personal development in follows from parody to drama and powerful instrumental soundtrack ca- in Lima, mixed and mastered in Mia- and personal experiences. Most of tor makes it clear that his primary Peru in the 1980s. the country and hence decided to from farce to a pathetic conclusion. refully produced by Manuel Garrido- mi. The graph contains the lyrics of all them have a song structure and could CHASQUI narrative interest is to focus on Such rather sinister places (wor- engage in violent acts. The film strikes a balance bet- Lecca, creating seven songs which Julio the songs and photographs of Julio at be considered instrumental ballads. observing the interaction of small th mentioning is the photographic Bajo la piel, however, adhering to ween satire and humor of the novel the Residencial San Felipe, probably as We should not, therefore, look for Cultural Bulletin Perez calls dramatic-romantic rock by MINISTRY OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS groups of characters debating in con- work of Pili Flores Guerra) shape the the narrative discipline of a thriller and uses such traits to include them articulating sound levels, producing a symbol of gravitation exerted by the key features of traditional Peruvian fined, sometimes even suffocating, temperaments of the characters in written with surgical precision by in the usual concerns of his films, composer on the inhabitants of this music, except in the chimes of some Directorate General of Cultural Affairs multi-segmented and multicultural Jr. Ucayali 337, Lima 1, Perú spaces turned into microcosm. Dra- the Lombardi´s film. In fact, they go Augusto Cabada, is a "moral story" as stated by Vargas Llosa himself. short sections, halfway between the Telephone: (511) 204-2638 matic laboratories that replicate, in even further, crippling and breaking about the family as a place of com- Pantaleón Pantoja is a character who city of Lima. music of Zamfir and Illapu. Judging plicit silence and traces a penetrating reminisces those of Lombardi: those by the kind of dissemination of this E-mail: [email protected] metaphorical symbols, the tensions down the characters. Lieutenant Web: www.rree.gob.pe/politicaexterior of the outside world. Lombardi Gamboa in La ciudad y los perros, the look at the climate of impunity who see their inner intimate stability type of product, it instills among is a narrator concerned about the young policeman Vitín Luna in La fostered by the amnesty granted to or personal relationships destroyed Inca Son compatriots living abroad a sense of The views expressed in the articles are those of GOLDEN ALBUM the authors. cleanliness of his storyline. The boca del lobo, and writer Hugo in Los members of the paramilitary group due to the presence of a disturbing belonging through this Peruvian idea- This bulletin is distributed free of charge by the fictional characters are based on amigos (Friends) are lucid but fragile Colina, responsible for extrajudicial and turpentine female character. (Play Music and Video, 2014, lized imaginary sound. Moreover, it diplomatic missions of Peru abroad. www.incason.com) longs to represent the Peruvian Andes the presence and physical aspects of and brittle characters. They sense executions. With the exceptions of Maruja en Translated by: the actors, who he carefully directs. the injustice of authoritarian systems No se lo digas a nadie (Tell No el infierno and Mariposa negra (Black for foreigners’ sensitive to the exotic Business Communications Consulting Gustavo Bueno, Jorge Rodríguez in which they live, but an essential One) (1998) is based on the origi- Butterfly) (2006), whose protago- As did many Peruvians in the 1980s, traits of these distant lands. As in the Mare Gordillo Paz, Gianfranco Brero, Diego Bertie, weakness prevents them from rebe- nal novel by Jaime Bayly. Without nists are women, Lombardi´s films César Villalobos Leiva, originally from case of albums outlined above, this Printing: Wendy Vásquez, Paul Vega, and late lling, yielding to the temptation of being a personal project, as were the dramatize male behaviors. Men Ascope, La Libertad, founder and production reflects the work of several xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Gilberto Torres and Aristótles Picho failure. We may find the imprint of adaptations of Maruja en el infierno who build bonds of comradeship creative director of the group Inca Son, years of Peruvian determined to repre-

CHASQUI 12 CHASQUI 13 with these products, cooks can work wonders. A typical Piuran meal THE CULINARY TRADITION OF PIURA can start with green tamales, made with tender corn beans ground to which coriander is added to give Manuel Tumi* it its characteristic color. After the traditional and unbeatable grouper ceviche, they can have chabelo stew, Among the regional cuisines of Peru, the culinary tradition of Piura continues to offer its rich dishes one of the emblematic dishes of accompanied by fermented corn chicha known as "clarito". Piuran cuisine. Prepared with green banana, it appears that this dish estled in northern Peru, Piura but a fresh marinated fish, resulting originated in the area of Chulucanas. region has special geographic in 'tender' meat.” In order to prepare the dish, cut the features. It has a segment of If ceviche is actually Peruvian, it previously roasted banana into thick N slices, which are then crushed with the Andes mountains, high forest, must have started in Piura, where, dry equatorial forest, tropical valleys like few other places in South Ameri- a mortar or chancadas (though the and deserts. In South America, this is ca, there is an abundance of excellent Piurans actually use the term "majar" the only country that alternates with sea products and where the subtle -smashed). The banana is then mixed in a pan with seasoned beef, onion, tropical wilderness. The sea receives lime or Ceuta brought by the Spanish 2 both hot and cold currents through- conquistadors grew. This coincidence Peruvian yellow chili, chicha de jora , out the year. Such unique geography of the two main ingredients of a 'clas- and coriander. offers a variety of sea and land prod- sic' ceviche and the preponderance of "Smashing" ingredients serves not ucts with which Piuranos (natives of sea products in the diet of Piurans for only for the chabelo stew, but also to Piura) have created a very particular centuries, supports this hypothesis. prepare the smashed cassava, another and tasty cuisine. Therefore, in 1970, more than typical dish of Piura. To prepare such In the waters of the Piura sea, we forty years ago, as Orellana says, dish, Piurans preferably use cassava can fish very valuable and fine species especially the northern ceviche, canvass from Morropón, which is such as marlin, swordfish, grouper, and more specifically the one from soft and white, pork, onion, and sea bass, the grape-eye seabass, guitar- Piura become 'ceviche'. Its simplicity, Peruvian yellow chili. Unlike chabelo fish and, of course, other popular and freshness, the quality of species with stew, cassava is not sautéed in oil in a abundant species such as mackerel which it is prepared stands out over pan. Actually, once boiled, cassava is and weakfish. Also, seafood is abun- other varieties of Peruvian ceviche. "smashed" and is then combined with dant such as the gooseneck barnacle. Connoisseurs say that the hardest the pork servings previously seasoned Crops grown in this land include dishes to prepare are those with the and fried with onions and Peruvian bananas, cassava, maize and a unique fewest ingredients. This is what hap- chili. Simple but delicious. product the Chulucanas lime, an pens with ceviche, made with very In recent years, a new class of extremely acid fruit considered by fresh fish cut into small dices, onion, majado has become quite popular: Picantería de Piura. Oil on canvas by Francisco Cienfuegos Rivera, circa 2000. connoisseurs as the best one to make Peruvian chili, lime, salt, and pepper. the majarisco. In fact, this dish eaten ceviche in Peru. According to Paul Abramonte, chef in Piura and Tumbes, is another The food of Piura is best expressed of Chulucanas, the best restaurant of poor imitation of chabelo stew made "poto" (also used to serve the chicha name stuck and the dish is one of Piurans are proud of their cuisine in the "picanterías1” or “chicheríos" Piuran food in Lima, there are two el- with seafood-which is plentiful in the de jora beverage), accompanied by a seven dishes served in Piura during for many reasons. It is no exaggera- popular restaurants where a white ements that make Piuran ceviche the north instead of beef. piece of grouper, rice and lentils, all Easter, although it is possible to taste tion to say that thanks to its climate flag on the roof announces that the Peruvian cebiche par excellence: the Such effervescence of fish and sprinkled with a touch of chicha de it throughout the year. and natural surroundings, the rich- chicha, ancestral drink made from Murique Grouper and Chulucanas plantains gained a new synthesis in jora. But the Piuran cuisine is much ness of its sea, and the fertility of its corn, is ready to accompany the grou- lime, a one of a kind citric charac- Catacaos, a town located ten minutes The elderly of Piura tell that the more than that. To the dishes de- land, the ancient techniques used per ceviche, the weakfish with onion terized by high acidity and fragrant away from Piura and is considered unique name of this dish originated scribed above, we must add a number to prepare them, their exceptional sauce, the pissed meat, the barely thin peel. Due to the lime´s unique the cathedral of Piuran cuisine. from a wife who, tired of her grumpy of stews, parihuelas (soup-like dish), quality, and some of the ingredients boiled fish, green tamales, chabelo feature –according to Abramonte- in There, during Easter and the Fridays and drunk husband claiming for and ceviche prepared with all types used in its dishes, Piura is one of the stew, mashed cassava or malarrabia-a Piura, ceviche is always served as of Lent, locals eat malarrabia, a dish food, improvised a quick snack with of seafood, shellfish, and fish offered gastronomic paradises of Peru. made with plantain that is boiled the only ingredients she had at hand by the rich northern sea, the red rice dish eaten during the Easter holidays. soon as its preparation is complete, * He is a poet and has worked as a journalist. Although modernity has imposed unlike what happened in the rest of and smashed until it acquires the at the time: banana, onion, Peruvian prepared in Catacaos in a clay pot, consistency of puree, to which onion, chili, and cheese. When she served the aforementioned copuz, etc. To fin- 1 TN: name given restaurants serving the typical the use of gas cookers in recent the country until a couple of decades local food. Peruvian chili, and cheese-preferably him this new dish, she yelled: "Eat ish a typical Piuran lunch, they serve decades, in the towns of Catacaos ago, where it was prepared one or two 2 TN: a corn beer prepared by germinating maize, and Chulucanas, 'sanctuaries' of hours before serving to let the lime goat cheese- are added. This smashed this to bust your mala rabia-bad custards, a dessert made with milk, extracting the malt sugars, boiling the wort, and Piura cuisine, people still use, out of Rosario Sosa Imaz, from picantería La Chayo in Catacaos. "cook" the fish. banana is served in a gourd called mood." Truth or legend, the peculiar cornstarch, and brown sugar. fermenting it in large vessels for several days. respect for tradition and to ensure In Piura, ceviche has always been a genuine northern flavor, clay pots served with by boiled yucca or cassava fueled by carob wood. This is used as was, in 1950, the best area for sport dishes he tasted at the Fishing Club, (and never with sweet potatoes, as is fuel in particular to prepare copuz-a fishing in South America. Attracted mostly based on fish and seafood, customary in Lima and elsewhere) RECIPES variant Piuran-version of the Andean by the black marlin and swordfish, including ceviche. Orbegozo recalled and trifles, a kind of bean that is Pachamanca; unlike the latter, the and thanks to Talara then having that on the eve of his departure, the abundant in the north. Now, in times an international airport where the former local version places foods in three journalists from Lima gave the of Peruvian gastronomic boom and GREEN TAMALES MAJADO DE YUCCA (Smashed cassava) the ground in ceramic bowls. Panagra aircraft coming from Miami writer a bottle of pisco on whose la- snobbery, picanterías strive to vary landed, even the exclusive Cabo bels they had written these lines from the original presentation of ceviche INGREDIENTS (for 10 tamales) INGREDIENTS (serves 4) The ceviche, Hemingway and the Blanco Fishing Club of Hollywood Domingo Martínez Luján: "As long and served it accompanied with a 1.5 kg baby corn, 200 grams of coriander 300 grams of cassava Sea of Piura stars came like the "Tarzan" of Johnny as grapes cry, I will drink their tears." variety of algae called weed and even 3 small onions, 1 Peruvian chili (ají limo), oil, salt 200 grams of pork meat cut into small pieces In his book La cocina piurana. Ensayo Weissmuller, John Wayne, and Greg- The morning of the last day he spent banana chips, made with a fried thin ½ onion cut into cubes de antropología de la alimentación (The ory Peck, and the great writer and in Cabo Blanco, Hemingway met green banana chips. PREPARATION Peruvian chili (ají limo), to taste Nobel laureate Ernest Hemingway. with journalists and said, "Last night Grind corn husks in a grinder along with onion and coriander and half a cup of oil, Coriander, to taste Piuran cuisine. An anthropology Grouper is also used to prepare to which salt and Peruvian chili (remove seeds first) is added. The resulting mass is salt and pepper about food) (Lima, CNRS-IFEA-IEP, Hemingway, who had already I drank all their tears." another Piuran dish known as "pasa- published The Old Man and the wrapped in a corn husks, tied and parboiled for one hour. 1995), Anne-Marie Hocquenghem But let´s go back to our main sub- do por agua". It only takes five minutes PREPARATION and Susana Monzon assert that "the Sea, arrived to Cabo Blanco in April ject. It is known that in several Amer- to prepare and all you need is to Cassava is parboiled and then "smashed" in a mortar, while adding salt and pepper. coast of Piura is one of the most im- 1956 with a team of Warner to film ican countries people are used to parboil in salted water big chunks of CHABELO STEW Then in a pan with oil, fry the pork and the other ingredients. This blend is then some scenes in support of the film portant fishing areas of the country eating chunks of fresh fish marinated grouper, once served on a plate the INGREDIENTS (serves 4) mixed in another container with the cassava. [...]. Both fish from the cold waters of inspired by his novel and, especially, with lime juice; this dish receives the fish is covered with a sauce consisting 2 green plantains, roasted the Humboldt current and those of black marlin fish. A big fan of high generic name of ceviche in Mexico, of onion, lime, and Peruvian yellow 200 grams of dried beef meat or jerky meat MALARRABIA the warmer waters of El Nino current seas fishing, he knew that someone Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru, where chili, accompanied by a garnish of 1 small onion, cut into cubes abound along the coast. This meet- had caught a 700 kilo 50-cm. long there are dozens of versions. boiled cassava and trifles. 1 tomato, diced INGREDIENTS (serves 4) ing of hot and cold water 'promotes specimen of this species. Hemingway In an unpublished essay on Pe- Cachema also comes from the 1 Peruvian chili (ají limo) or pickled, to taste 300 grams of fish (marinate with a pinch of salt from the previous day) the renewal of plankton nutrients', was 32 days in Cabo Blanco and ev- ruvian cuisine, Carlos Orellana says, Piuran sea; it is a medium sized fish coriander, salt, and pepper, to taste 1 ripe plantain allowing the concentration of a wide ery morning in the Miss Texas vessel "We do not know the etymology of and although it is not related to the oregano, half tablespoon achiote (annotto) 100 grams of salty white cheese diversity of aquatic resources (algae, he set sail in search of the giant black the word 'ceviche' and, of course, the grouper, it is very nice and can be 1 glass of chicha de jora 1 large onion, 1 tomato, 1 pickled Peruvian chili (ají) mollusks, crustaceans, cetaceans) marlin. Every day, he spent about origin of this dish. There are several prepared in a ceviche, a stew or with oregano and achiote (annotto), to taste (Data Center for Conservation, ten hours at sea, but failed to catch hypotheses from the academic world, onions-the best known way of eating PREPARACIÓN 1992). the large prey he sought. My friend like Javier Pulgar Vidal, for whom this fish: the entire fish is fried and Smashed the plantains mortar and mix in a pan with oil. Add the beef meat or jerky PREPARATION Piuran fishermen go out to sea the late journalist Manuel Jesús ceviche or cebiche derives from viche, accompanied by a lot of onions, to- meat previously roasted. In another pan prepare the dressing with all the remaining Parboil the plantains, "smash" until you obtain coarse puree, and mixed with the chee- from the fishermen coves of Sechu- Orbegozo, who, with two other men which in the Chibcha language (spo- matoes, and Peruvian yellow chili. ingredients and cook for three minutes. Then add the plantains with the meat on the se. In a pan with oil, prepare the dressing with half onion cut into cubes and annatto ra, Yacila, Colan, Paita, Talara, and from Lima, covered day after day the ken in Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, dressing and mix until blended. and then mixed it with the smashed plantain and cheese. Do not add salt. After, in writer´s stay in that Piuran cove, told and northern Peru) means 'tender'; another pan, steam the fish with tomato, onion, pickle Peruvian chili, oregano, salt, Cabo Blanco to collect what nature Majados (smashed) and pepper for ten minutes. Serve fish with plantains, rice, and grasspea. gives them in the Pacific Ocean. One me years later that Hemingway was such term would allude to fresh, as Piurans do not only enjoy the pro- of those places, Cabo Blanco, a cove very friendly and chatted with them opposed to solid and cooked. Cevi- duce of the sea. The area produces a few kilometers away from Talara, in Spanish and I was happy with the che or cebiche is indeed not a stew, abundant corn and banana, and * Recipes by Piuran Chef Pablo Abramonte, Chulucanas restaurant (Lima).

CHASQUI 14 CHASQUI 15 AN UNFORGETTABLE CELEBRATION LA CANDELARIA OF PUNO Manuel Raez* Emblematic celebration of the lakeside town has been listed in the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

he festivity of the Virgen de la Can- one gathers in the Main Square, where delaria of Puno is one of the great- the steward Alba invites punch, while the Test expressions of the Quechua and fireworks go off and kapos or logs are lit, Aymara cultural diversity of the region; always under the music of bands, flutes nevertheless, its origin was simple and and drums. circumstantial. This devotion to the Vir- At the crack of dawn of the actual fes- gin Mary appeared in the late fourteenth tive day (February 2), the steward begins century, in the village of Tenerife (Canary the celebrations with the sound of bom- Islands). According to local tradition, a bards and traditional holiday breakfast; black Virgin cradling baby Jesus in her meanwhile, the groups begin to dance arms and holding a candle, hence the through the streets of the city or visit the name Virgen de la Luz or the Candelaria cemetery where former members lay. At (Our Lady of Candle). When the Ca- noon, the steward and the authorities nary Islands were conquered by Spain, go to the temple for Mass, and then they devotion for this Virgin would spread to accompany the procession of the Mamita the Iberian Peninsula and, hence, to the Candelaria, followed by some dance American colonies. By 1596, King Philip troupes, while other troupes go to the En- III championed himself as protector of rique Torres Belon Stadium, where they Our Lady of Candle and, three years participate in the contest of folk dances. later, Pope Clement VIII made her pa- After the procession, in the atrium of the troness of the Canaries. A feature of this Cathedral is handed over to the new stew- Virgin, called Morenita, is that she carried ard for the following year. At a distance, it Baby Jesus and held a candle, unlike the is possible to hear the music of carnivals, images of the Our Lady of Candle that Procession of Our Lady of Candle. wifalas, chacareras, and sikuris dances as would come to Latin America. they compete in the stadium. The next Once the Viceroyalty of Peru was day, the names of the winners of the folk established, the Dominican order would dance competition is revealed and they spread the cult of Our Lady of Candle in celebrate in the streets of the city; some the province of Collao or Chucuito, prob- dance troupes head to the temple, to bid ably because this order was responsible farewell to the Mamita Candelaria and for the sanctuary of the Virgin in Tenerife return to their communities. since 1530. The indigenous population The central day of the octave always readily welcomed our Lady possibly falls on a Sunday, but celebrations begin thanks to her swarthy complexion. One on the eve (Saturday) when the steward of the Dominican order´s doctrines that visits the Mamita Morena, accompanied became famous is Our Lady of Copaca- by authorities and members of the dance bana, whose Lady of Candle would be troupes parading wearing their casual rechristened Our Lady of Copacabana wear, i.e. without costumes or disguises (1583). Thus, the southern town of Co- but playing their characteristic musical pacabana became an important Marian chords. Among the groups, Puna Diabla- sanctuary in the viceroyalty from which da, Dark King, Corporal King, Waca, Kull- devotion for this Lady would spread to awada, Llamerada, Morenada, Ayarachis, many towns and rich mining settlements, Sikumoreno, Foremen, Tuntuna, Kallawaya, like Laikakota (Virgen de la Candelaria) Tinkus, are worth mentioning. Late at or Oruro (Virgin of the Adit). The Mar- night, the eve Mass is held in the Cathe- ian devotion to the new Lady of Candle Competition wearing costumes among participants from different districts of the city. dral, then the sky is lit up the with and would begin in the town of Puno in the dances and melodious Sikuris troupes. At late eighteenth century, during the great dawn on the Sunday of the octave, the uprising of Tupac Amaru II. According 1920, new dance choreographies (Waca, the city and surrounding villages partici- streets of the city are filled with spectators to tradition, the Mamita Morena (the Diablada, and Llamerada), danced in pate in the central day the festivity (Feb- and devotees contemplating the splendid black Lady) would prevent the troops of other festivities of the Peruvian-Bolivian ruary 2); while troupes wearing costumes parade and troupes showing off their the cacique (chief) of Tinta to take over plateau, would be included in the parade. and whose members come from the local "costumes" and playing their dances as the town in the final assault, because Though, there were sporadic competi- neighborhoods, compete on Sunday-on they parade by. At noon, the Mass of they erroneously took the procession of tions between Sikus troupes and dance the eighth day of the festivity. This separa- octave is held with the bishop of Puno the Virgin with a Royalist reserve branch troupes since 1929, it was only in 1954 tion remains until today. as celebrant, accompanied by leading that was coming to provide assistance to that the American Institute of Punoini- authorities and sponsors. After the Mass, the besieged population, becoming, from cia Art began organizing, on a regular Festive Days the procession accompanies the faithful that date, patron of the city. basis, dance competitions, but without During the days prior to February 2-the devotees, while some troupes begin the By the mid-nineteenth century, distinguishing between native dances central date of the festivity- and on its competition at the stadium; an activity the Festivity of Purification (February and those using costumes. In 1965, the eight day, the residents of the city of runs until late at night. 2) became the Festivity of Our Lady of Folkdance Federation of the Department Puno and of the surrounding commu- On the Monday of the octave, known Candle, gaining more popularity than of Puno (now known as Regional Feder- nities prepared for these two key dates; as the Day of Worship, the celebrations the traditional festivities of San Carlos ation of Folklore and Culture of Puno) they coordinate accommodations for continue with a parade honoring the (Saint Charles, November 4) and San would take over the organization of the their guests or rehearse in their dance Lady of Candelaria, located in the atrium Juan Bautista (St. John the Baptist, June competition. In the ensuing years, as the troupes. Moreover, a Novena2 begins in of the Cathedral. On the Tuesday of 24). In the early twentieth century, number of dance troupes increased, the the Basilica, known as the Cathedral of the octave (a tradition that began a few some carnival groups and Sicuris and competition was moved to a new venue, Puno, on January 24. On February 1, years ago), the various ensembles that Sicumorenos troupes would start dancing the Enrique Torres Belon Stadium, and the day before the festivity, the alferado participated in the parade are presented from the eve of February 2 until the the competition is separated from the (steward) of Alba opens the day with and they delight the audience with pieces last day of the octave1 of the festivity. By festivity itself. The troupes and dancers of bombards and country music, and then from their wide repertoires and show goes to the Cathedral, where he attends their skills in instrumental performance. Mass at Dusk (six o'clock); then he invites Finally, on the Wednesday of the octave a hearty breakfast at home or otherwise. is the kacharpari or farewell dance by the After noon, a number of peasant troupes institutions whose members attend the from the outskirts of the city arrive and farewell Mass, assess the steward, and get ready for the traditional ceremony of choose the new steward, candidates for the "Entrance of candles and kapos" at the following year treat their musicians sunset. This ceremony is presided over by with plenty food and drink. This brings the steward of Alba and his wife, accom- to an end such beautiful festivity, con- panied by relatives, friends, and officials sidered by Unesco an intangible cultural who carry candles of varying size and till- heritage since November 27, 2014. age. Behind them come bustling Pinkillos, * Anthropologist. Research associate at the Sikus, and Chakallos troupes and bands. Institute of Ethnomusicology, where he was Everyone is heading to the Cathedral to responsible for the ethno-musical recording in place their candles and gifts in honor of various regions of the country. the Mamita Morena, as the affectionately 1 TN: in Christian liturgy: the eighth day after a feast or the whole period of these eight days, call Our Lady of Candle, and attend Mass during which certain major feasts are observed. on the eve of her day. Some troupes bring 2 TN: act of pious Roman Catholic devotion mules or llamas, which carry bundles of often consisting of private or public prayers Troupe dancing in honor of Our Lady. firewood or kapos. After the Mass, every- repeated for nine days in a row

CHASQUI 16