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Israel-Exkursion 2012 Universität Potsdam Israel-Exkursion 2012 Jüdische Studien LER Religionswissenschaft 22. Juli bis 02. August 2012 Editorial Liebe Israelreisende, liebe Interessierte, unsere Exkursion liegt nun schon ein paar Wochen zurück, aber die zahlreichen Eindrücke und Erlebnisse wirken nach. Wir haben in jenen elf Tagen keine großen geographischen Entfernungen zurückgelegt, obwohl wir das Land von Norden nach Süden bereist haben. Wir haben vielmehr eine Reise durch die Vergangenheit – von der Eisenzeit (Tel Dan) über die Zweite Tempelzeit (Qumran), Byzantium (Hamat Tiberias) und die Omajjaden-Epoche (Felsendom) – bis in die Moderne (Staatsgründung) unternommen. Dazu haben wir uns immer wieder von der Gegenwart dieses Fleckchens Erde faszinieren, aber auch erschüttern lassen (Givat Haviva, Yad Vashem). Es steckt viel Wahres in dem Spruch „Wer sich gern erinnert, lebt zweimal“ (F. Magnani). Dieses Heft ist dazu gedacht, dass Sie, liebe Teilnehmerinnen und Teilnehmer, die Reise „wiedererleben können“, und Sie, liebe Leserin, lieber Leser, an dem teilhaben können, was wir im Sommer 2012 erleben durften. Indem wir die Erinnerungen lebendig halten wollen, hoffen wir, eine informationsreiche Broschüre über ein atemberaubendes, komplexes und widersprüchliches Land zur Verfügung zu stellen. Sie finden hier die einzelnen Tagesberichte und in den blauen „Info-Kästen“ die (gekürzten) Inhalte der in Israel gehaltenen Referate. Wir möchten uns sehr herzlich bei all unseren israelischen und palä- stinensischen Gesprächspartnern bedanken, die bereit waren ihr Wissen, ihre Erfahrungen und ihre Gefühle mit uns zu teilen. Wir danken Hannah Tüllmann (Bayerisches Pilgerbüro), die uns bei der Reiseorganisation un- terstützt hat. Ein besonderer Dank gebührt Heinz Schulze, dessen Mühen es zu verdanken ist, dass dieses Heft in grafisch so ansprechender Form vorliegt. Im Namen der studentischen Teilnehmerinnen und Teilnehmer möchten wir uns zudem sowohl bei der Philosophischen Fakultät sowie bei den Instituten für Jüdische Studien und Religionswissenschaft der Universität Potsdam als auch bei der Springerstiftung für die finanzielle Unterstützung bedanken. Ihnen allen vielen herzlichen Dank – Toda raba! Zofia Nowak Jenny Vorpahl Dr. Patrick Diemling Inhalt Inhalt Editorial Tag 1 Sophie Hopfe, Ankunft in Tel Aviv Seite 3 Tag 2 Sina Schultze, Givat Haviva Seite 5 Tag 3 Patrick Tolksdorf, Universität Haifa und Bahai-Tempel Seite 9 Jeanine Laurisch, Haifa in Schlaglichtern und die Deutschen Templer in Israel Seite 10 Renate Lienau, Buchvorstellung: Carlo Strenger, ISRAEL, Einführung in ein schwieriges Land Seite 12 Tag 4 Wenke Papenhagen, See Genezareth und Tiberias Seite 13 Sina Schultze, Hamat Tiberias - Nationalpark Seite 13 Marie Pauline Wiebe, Jochanan ben Sakkai, Rabbi Akiba und das rabbinische Judentum Seite 16 Tag 5 Susanne Kron, Zefad (Safed) Seite 17 Susanne Kron, Die blaue Stadt Zefad (Safed) Seite 18 Michelle Somnitz, Naturreservat Tel Dan im Golan Seite 19 Tag 6 Patricia Nowaczyk, Der Kibbuz Seite 21 Sina Nimtz,, Am See Genezareth, Kapernaum Seite 23 Sebastian Gennrich, Die christlichen Stätten am See Gennesaret Seite 24 Celine Thorns, Archäologie und Christentum - archäologische Zeugnisse in Kapernaum Seite 25 Sina Nimz, Synagogenbesuch in Jerusalem Seite 27 Tag 7 Carolin von der Heiden, Das christliche Jerusalem Seite 29 Carolin von der Heiden, Via Dolorosa Seite 30 Carolin von der Heiden, Grabeskirche Seite 32 Carolin von der Heiden, Erlöserkirche Seite 33 Patrick Tolksdorf, Protestanten und Preußen in Jerusalem Seite 34 Tag 8 Petra Lenz, Stadt Davids und Zionsberg Seite 35 Tag 9 Laura Lange, Tempelberg und Westmauer Seite 35 Erika Wagner, Der Tempelberg Seite 37 Julia Jokel, Jerusalem. Das jüdische Viertel Seite 41 Tag 10 Michelle Somnitz, Qumran Seite 43 Rachel de Boor, Qumran, die Essener_innen und die Schriftrollen Seite 43 Michelle Somnitz, Ein Gedi und Masada Seite 45 Heinz Schulze, Masada - Geschichte und Mythos Seite 46 Michelle Somnitz, Ein „Beduinendorf“ Seite 47 Jeanine Laurisch, Yad Vashem und Mea Shearim Seite 49 Tag 11 Laura Lange, Der Ölberg und seine Bedeutung Seite 53 Jenny Vorpahl, Sammlung der Zerstreuten Seite 55 TeilnehmerInnenfoto, Impressum und Israelkarte Seite 57 Seite 2 Ankunft in Tel Aviv ten, das Hotel zu erreichen. Der Ankunft in Tel Aviv erste Teil der Gruppe war schnell weg und machte sich mit den Taxis Gegen 18 Uhr am 22. Juli auf den Weg zum Hotel. 2012 war die Exkursionsgruppe Nach kurzer Diskussionszeit im Deborah Hotel in Tel Aviv ver- entschied sich der zweite Teil der abredet. Da die Flieger und somit Gruppe, noch etwas orientierungs- die Flugzeiten privat organisiert los am Flughafen stehend, dann für wurden, machten sich mehrere die Fahrt mit dem Zug und einem Einzelgruppen auf den Weg. Einige sich anschließenden „kurzen“ Gruppenmitglieder waren bereits Fußweg vom Bahnhof zum Ho- in Israel, andere wollten am 23. Juli tel. Den meisten kofferziehenden nachkommen. Der Großteil der Beteiligten kamen die anfänglich 27-köpfigen Reisegruppe startete veranschlagten 2 km schnell etwas am 22. Juli. länger vor. Trotz der Hitze und Wie bei den Vortreffen be- des Weges konnten so aber erste sprochen, sollte die Ankunft am Eindrücke von Tel Aviv gesammelt Flughafen überpünktlich gestaltet werden. Etwas durchgeschwitzt sein, da mit erhöhten Sicherheits- erreichten dann schließlich alle abfragen zu rechnen war. So trafen heil das Hotel und beim ersten sich die ersten Ungeduldigen be- gemeinsamen Abendessen, das reits um 7 Uhr am Flughafen, bei einer Abflugzeit um 11 Uhr. Die Sicherheitsabfragen waren dann doch weniger schlimm als erwartet, vielleicht auch deshalb, weil die ersten Ankömmlinge schon alles gesagt hatten. Nach vier Stunden Flugzeit war Tel Aviv dann erreicht. Nun gab es mehrere Möglichkei- Seite 3 Tag 1 Tel Aviv, Sonntag, 22. Juli 2012 aus einem umfangreichen Buffet bestand und für jeden Geschmack etwas bereit hielt, wurde die weite- re Tagesplanung besprochen. Es wurde ein Spaziergang am Strand verabredet, da nicht nur die noch sehr warmen Temperaturen dazu einluden, sondern auch die abendliche Strandstimmung mit den zahlreichen Bars und spazieren- den und cocktailtrinkenden Leuten für eine entspannte Atmosphäre sorgten. Der Spaziergang führte uns zur in einer von Tel Avivs vielen Bars, Altstadt Tel Avivs, nach Jaffa. Alte andere machten es sich mit Cock- sandsteinfarbene Gemäuer, enge tails am Strand gemütlich oder Gassen und die schöne nächtliche erkundeten noch weiter die Stadt Beleuchtung Jaffas prägten den und wieder andere waren auf einen ersten Eindruck und grenzten die Geburtstag eingeladen und läuteten Altstadt architektonisch vom mo- dort die Nacht ein. Während sich dernen Tel Aviv ab. Nach kurzer Be- die meisten dann gegen 1 Uhr auf sichtigung und einigen erklärenden zum Hotel und zu ihren Zimmern Worten von Frau Vorpahl, bspw. machten, um zu schlafen, kamen zur Altstadt und ihren Belagerern, etwa drei Stunden später die letzten zur mystischen Bedeutung der Reisenden am Zielort an. Damit „wishing bridge“ oder dem Hin- war die Gruppe nun vollständig weis zum Aussichtspunkt, konnten und eine großartige („mufoleuse“) nun die einzelnen Gruppen ihre Exkursion konnte beginnen. Abendplanung vornehmen. Einige Sophie Hopfe entschieden sich für den Besuch Seite 4 Haifa / Givat Haviva Givat Haviva Jüdisch-Arabisches Zentrum für den Frieden Schulklassen wird je eine arabische Schulklasse zugeordnet und um- gekehrt. Die Teilnahme an dem Projekt steht den Schulklassen frei. Zunächst werden die Schüler in kleineren Gruppen (15 Jugendli- che, 1 Pädagoge) auf die Konfron- tation vorbereitet. Lebensnahe The- men beider Gruppen werden im Voraus besprochen – der Weg für ein Treffen wird geebnet, erst dann erfolgt der Dialog. Im Anschluss erfolgt eine Nachbesprechung über Gefühle und Gedanken. Wie wir später erfahren soll- ten, leben in Israel jüdische und arabische Menschen trotz gleicher Staatsbürgerschaft im besten Fall nebeneinander, doch nicht mitein- ander. Das Zentrum Givat Haviva Nach der ersten und für einige auch hegt mit seinem Programm „Kin- letzten Nacht in Tel Aviv machten der lehren Kinder“ den inneren wir uns in der Reisegruppe auf in Wunsch, nicht nur einen Austausch das nicht weit entfernte Zentrum zwischen jüdischen und arabischen Givat Haviva – eine Bildungs- und Jugendlichen zu schaffen, sondern Begegnungsstätte, die sich darum auch einen Austausch zwischen bemüht, einen Dialog zwischen israelischen und palästinensischen jüdischen und arabischen Jugend- Menschen herzustellen. lichen zu schaffen. Ohne dass wir es Wir lernten unseren Busfahrer wussten, wurden wir an diesem Tag Sami kennen, der uns die ganze in das sehr tiefe und kalte Wasser Fahrt begleiten sollte. Im Bus einer Israel-Problematik geworfen, erhielten wir erste Informationen deren Inhalte uns bis zum Ende zur Einrichtung Givat Haviva, die unserer Fahrt begleiten sollten. einige Fragen aufkommen ließen, Der Dialog/das Programm die wir später beantwortet beka- „Kinder lehren Kinder“ basiert auf men. dem tieferen Wunsch, Beziehun- Lydia Aisenberg begrüßte uns. gen zwischen der jüdischen und In ersten Schritten führte sie uns arabischen Bevölkerung aufzubau- über das Gelände und berichtete en. Den teilnehmenden jüdischen uns von bereits durchgeführten Seite 5 Tag 2 Haifa, Montag, 23.Juli 2012 Projekten, an denen jüdische und hinzugefügt. arabische Jugendliche gleicherma- Als im Jahre 1948 Israel seine ßen und gleichzeitig beteiligt waren, Unabhängigkeit erklärte, war es bevor ihr Vortrag über die Proble- für die jüdische Bevölkerung wie
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