INSIDE the MAGICAL WORLD of MAKEUP ARTIST PAT Mcgrath

Home , Fei Fei Sun, Kate Moss, Thierry Mugler

AN ISSUE OF WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY

THE CREATIVE ISSUE ANGEL’S ASTONISHING RUN ON THE EDGE WITH NEIL KRAFT FASHION TAKES ON BEAUTY—AGAIN

Hello Darling! INSIDE THE MAGICAL WORLD OF MAKEUP ARTIST PAT McGRATH

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FEATURES 20 In Living Color Superstar makeup artist Pat McGrath is as inﬂuential as she is inventive. 24 When Worlds Collide With consumers clamoring for aspirational goods, more and more fashion designers are testing the waters of a category once thought impossible for most to break into: color cosmetics. 28 The New Sun Times Once viewed largely as a commodity category, sun care is quickly becoming synonymous with skin care. 30 Halo E!ect By single-mindedly pursuing an unconventional approach to fragrance marketing, Groupe Clarins has made Angel a powerhouse in the world of perfume.

DEPARTMENTS CORNER OFFICE 10 The Spirit of the Moment Playing it safe was never his style: Image guru Neil Kraft knows the bigger the risk, the bigger the reward. 12 Black Book: Patricia Wexler The dermatologist to the stars shares her favorite resources for business and pleasure. BEAUTY BULLETIN 14 Launch Window Key products hitting stores now. 15 Rosy the Riveter Summer’s fresh take on blush. 16 Milan’s Makeup Sensation Inside Europe’s ﬁercest new beauty concept. CONSUMER CHRONICLES 18 Shopper Stalker Who’s buying what—and why— in New York’s Meatpacking District. MISC 8 Pete Unplugged WWD’s executive editor of beauty Pete Born on the main message at the 2013 WWD Beauty Summit: Innovate or run the risk of extinction. 34 Flash Point Keeping up with beauty’s movers and shakers.

The new age of protection: Page 28. Photograph by ON THE COVER: Pat McGrath photographed Philippe Salomon. for WWD Beauty Inc by Ben Hassett. Hair by Karina Castenada at Ecco Gioia Salon.

WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year a"er the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisﬁed with your subscription, PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 205, NO. 127. SATURDAY, June 22, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks a"er receipt of order. Address all editorial, one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive O!cer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, Chief Operating O!cer & Chief Financial O!cer; www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to Jill Bright, Chief Administrative O!cer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing o!ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. carefully screened companies that o#er products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these o#ers and/or information, please advise us at Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich- P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post O!ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

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EDITOR’S LETTER EDWARD NARDOZA EDITOR IN CHIEF, W WD

PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY JENNY B. FINE EDITOR

Creation Nation JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR hen we were generating ideas for this, the first issue of WWD MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Beauty Inc devoted to creativity, I knew there could be only one BELISA SILVA BEAUTY MARKET EDITOR, MASS cover subject: Pat McGrath, the superstar makeup artist who is as JAYME CYK EDITORIAL ASSISTANT KATIE KRETSCHMER COPY EDITOR influential as she is inventive. ART McGrath, as is her way, didn’t immediately say yes. Later, I found BARBARA SULLIVAN ART DIRECTOR out over the course of our interviews that it took her roughly the same amount W CONTRIBUTORS of time to consider director David Fincher’s offer to create the look for Rooney SAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES (London), MILES SOCHA (Paris), CYNTHIA MARTENS (Milan), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN (Los Angeles), Mara’s character in the film, The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. As I learned, MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE (Berlin), AMANDA KAISER (Tokyo) McGrath is an absolute perfectionist who won’t take on any project—a shoot, a PHOTO show, an interview, a film—unless she’s absolutely sure that she can deliver what’s CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO EDITOR LEXIE MORELAND ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR expected to her very exacting standards. Happily, she agreed to be profiled, and JENNA GREENE ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR ERIN FITZGERALD STUDIO MANAGER gave WWD Beauty Inc unprecedented access to her magically creative world for EILEEN TSUJI PHOTO COORDINATOR our story, “In Living Color” on page 20. ROBERT COHEN PHOTO FACILITATOR JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN, McGrath creates the makeup looks for some of the best-known designers on the THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOGRAPHERS

planet—Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton and on and on. Whereas CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS once the work of such designers hardly intersected with hers, more and more RUVEN AFANADOR, KENJI AOKI, DAN BORRIS, NIGEL DICKSON, BEN HASSETT, HENRY LEUTWYLER, MARK HANAUER, MICHAEL NAGLE, fashion designers are entering the world of color cosmetics with launches of their JEFF RIEDEL, PHILIPPE SALOMON, DAVID LEWIS TAYLOR, YASU+JUNKO own. The terrain for such brands is treacherous, littered with unsuccessful attempts from names like Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Diane von Furstenberg. Come BEAUTY INC ADVERTISING PAUL JOWDY VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER August, however, giants like Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors will test the water with PAMELA FIRESTONE ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER JENNIFER MARDER ADVERTISING DIRECTOR makeup, while others including Gucci and Christian Louboutin reportedly have ELLIE GHADIMI ADVERTISING DIRECTOR, BEAUTY lines in the works. Have designers ﬁnally come into their own at the beauty counter? JILL BIREN WEST COAST DIRECTOR BAVA GUGLIELMO INTERNATIONAL DIRECTOR Find out what the market’s top analysts think in “When Worlds Collide” on page 24. OLGA KOUZNETSOVA ACCOUNT MANAGER, ITALY BRITTANY MUTTERER BEAUTY SALES ASSISTANT Designer Thierry Mugler and his fragrance partner, Groupe Clarins, were MARKETING/CREATIVE SERVICES absolutely fearless 20 years ago when they launched Angel. The fragrance broke JANET MENAKER EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, MARKETING the rules of traditional scent marketing—and won big. Today, Angel is a bestseller EMILY CORTEZ EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, CREATIVE SERVICES KRISTEN M. WILDMAN EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, EVENT MARKETING worldwide. Printemps’ Charlotte Tasset tells European beauty editor Jennifer Weil JENNIFER PINCUS DIRECTOR, INTEGRATED MARKETING FABIO SALLES CREATIVE DIRECTOR in “The Halo Effect” on page 30, “It was a concept that was audacious, innovative JULIA DONAHUE COPY DIRECTOR and brought a new approach to selective perfumery.” Doubtless McGrath would ALEXIS WARCHALOWSKI DIGITAL DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR BRIANNA LIPOVSKY ASSOCIATE MARKETING DIRECTOR be the ﬁrst to agree that creativity comes in many forms indeed. JENNIFER BORCK SENIOR MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING MICHAEL FOUNTAS MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING —JENNY B. FINE JULIE JACOBY MANAGER, EVENT MARKETING ALISSA GROSS MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING SHAMILA SIDDIQUI MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING AMANDA MULLAHEY ASSOCIATE MANAGER, INTEGRATED MARKETING ELLYN PULEIO ASSOCIATE MANAGER, DIGITAL DEVELOPMENT CHRISTINA MASTROIANNI PR ASSISTANT

PRODUCTION The Real World GENA KELLY VICE PRESIDENT, MANUFACTURING CHRIS WENGIEL GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR With graduation season in full swing, we asked some KEVIN HURLEY PRODUCTION DIRECTOR top execs what advice they have for recent graduates. JILL BREINER ASSOCIATE PRODUCTION MANAGER CIRCULATION ELLEN DEALY SENIOR EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR “While it is critically “Neither be discouraged nor distracted by the JOHN CROSS PLANNING AND OPERATIONS DIRECTOR PEGGY PYLE MARKETING DIRECTOR important to have clarity about outside ‘noise.’ Follow your passion, reach high ALISON EHRMANN MARKETING DIRECTOR your ideal job, in our current economic and know no boundaries—you’ll be surprised by SUZANNE BERARDI SENIOR ONLINE MANAGER ALISON CHRISTIE ASSISTANT MARKETING MANAGER climate you may need to consider accepting what you can accomplish.” —CLAUDIA POCCIA, a suboptimal job in order to get some work president and ceo, Gurwitch Products FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA experience to position you better for your ideal WILL SCHENCK EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT, CRO “Build analytical skills. My first job was as a SUZANNE REINHARDT VICE PRESIDENT, FINANCE & OPERATIONS job in the future.” —ALAN T. ENNIS, president business analyst for McKinsey. I learned how to DAN SHAR VICE PRESIDENT, GENERAL MANAGER, DIGITAL and chief executive o!cer, Revlon Inc. MELISSA BRECHER CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER run spreadsheets; forecast revenue, costs and NICOLE ZUSSMAN VICE PRESIDENT, HUMAN RESOURCES “Treat graduation as a massive opportunity profit, and analyze large quantities of data. This MICHAEL ATMORE EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, FOOTWEAR NEWS & DIRECTOR OF BRAND DEVELOPMENT DEVON BEEMER FINANCE DIRECTOR to accelerate your life’s dreams and goals. is the skill that helped me start my business. JANET JANOFF BUSINESS MANAGER Determine who the five key people are that When we look for sta! today, we want the CARMEN MENDOZA ASSISTANT OPERATIONS MANAGER can help you achieve your career goals most analytical people who know how to make and make contact with them. Don’t be sense of data. And go the extra mile—ask for NANCY BUTKUS CREATIVE DIRECTOR

afraid to ask someone to be your mentor extra work. Everyone notices a sta!er who goes PETER W. KAPLAN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR and start building the relationships early. above and beyond and takes on extra projects. unLA

GINA SANDERS PRESIDENT & CEO aLL L (Oh yeah, also take at least six months This shows interest, commitment and a willing- B to travel through Asia and India on $20 a ness to try new things.” —MARLA MALCOM BECK,

day.)” —IDO LEFFLER, cofounder, Yes To Inc. ceo and cofounder, BlueMercury Inc. BY PHOTO

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Brand Building in An Age of Uncertainty PETE BORN distills the major messages from the recent WWD Beauty Summit.

reating a vibrant, winning chemistry for a brand can be tricky business. the number of documented times that her best-selling Nakeds eye shadow palette The process depends on a company’s creative impulse quickening appears to have been copied by her competitors. But Zomnir came up with a at just the right moment to pick up on the consumer’s latest whim or universal suggestion. “I propose using all the creative bandwidth of the beauty fantasy or fit of angst. business to create something fresh and new and forge a genuine connection with The right mixture of inspiration and daring can reap a golden payoff your customer,” she said. “If we all stay true to our individual brand positions, or turn into dread, as nagging existential questions creep in, like “Are there’s plenty of room for everyone to create an original that’s a home run.” Cwe delivering real innovation? Are we pursuing the customers we will need in the Few topics are more relevant than the world we live in. “There used to be a future? Are we keeping pace or just sleepwalking? Are we losing our edge?” very narrow definition of success, which was being number one, no matter what “You have to have a vision of where you want to be,” advised Leonard A. Lauder, the cost,” said Gina Boswell, executive vice president of personal care, North during the sweeping, landmark speech he gave at the recent WWD Beauty America, at Unilever. “It’s our belief that that model doesn’t work in today’s Summit in Manhattan. Lauder, who is now chairman emeritus of the industry world....Businesses have to learn to be successful while contributing to society giant he built, delivered arguably the most-quoted line of the summit: “A business and supporting ecosystems and biodiversity and livelihoods.” without a vision isn’t a business, it’s just a pastime.” Unilever took action by unhooking financial performance from environmen- He gave the keynote address during a day and a half of cogent, analytical and tal performance and creating a “plan for sustainable living” with three goals: to thought-provoking speeches. One prevalent theme was that halve its environmental footprint while doubling the size of the the beauty industry, which prides itself on continuous innova- business; to help one billion people worldwide improve their tion, can never take its foot off the gas. In fact, it needs to push “There are health and well-being, and to sustainably source 100 percent of its harder on the accelerator right now. Much harder. opportunities agricultural raw materials by 2020. Deb Henretta, group president of the Global Beauty Care What Boswell called “purpose-driven brands” are at the back- Group at the Procter & Gamble Co., called for a digital revolu- everywhere bone of the plan, because social consciousness is built inside the tion. She sized up the beauty industry’s level of achievement in brands. “It’s always been imperative that businesses create value,” the world of digital and found it sorely wanting. The industry you go, if you she said. “It’s now even more critical that we create value for the may “evangelize” the digital way, “yet still under invests. The just listen.” communities where we operate.” music does not match the words,” she said. Listening to consumers enables companies “to empower Invoking memories from beauty’s revolutionary past, like the consumers to own our brands and adopt our brands,” she said. advent of metal lipstick tubes and at-home hair dye, she declared, “We have to As an example, Boswell showed Dove’s Real Beauty Sketches spot. It shows a step it up and innovate at the speed of digital, lest we risk becoming the Polaroid police artist drawing pictures of seven women based on their own descriptions camera, the analogue telephone or the business pager of our industry.” Her and those of others. The video has become the most-watched on the Internet, solution is a fundamental shift, from thinking of digital technology as purely a and led to a key insight: “Only 4 percent of adult women think they are beautiful,” marketing tool to it being fully integrated into all phases of brand building. She Boswell said. “We also learned that this is a universal truth,” she said, “and a calls it General Purposes Technology. “Digital must become integral to everything universal truth is the best basis for any kind of brand campaign.” we do—how we think, how we design, how we manufacture,” she said. “The Now is the time to reinvent the very nature of marketing for the post- world is no longer moving at a linear rate, but an exponential rate. It is the pace of sustainability, post-developing and post-emerging markets, and the post-digital Generation Y and all generations to come.” world, Boswell believes. “We must help people tell their brand stories rather Speaking of generations, Julia Goldin, Revlon’s chief marketing officer, than simply listening to ours,” she said. harkened back to the golden era of Charles Revson in the Fifties—pointing to The one speaker who has both the experience and insight to bridge the generation seismic shifts triggered by provocative products like the Fire and Ice and Cherries gaps was Lauder himself. His speech—Tomorrow is Today—was structured in the Snow makeup collections and Charlie fragrance, which trumpeted women’s to demonstrate that the events of today can be used to read the future. He liberation. Goldin then compared that era to the present mood. “The beauty described how the creation of interstate highways and the invention of third- industry has been very safe,” she said. “Are we ready to shock?” party credit cards ripped the supports out from under the cozy world where big, Taking a page from her prior experience at Coca-Cola, Goldin stressed that established department stores long ruled. “No one at the time realized what was long-standing brands have “an enduring perspective.” For marketers, it’s no longer happening,” Lauder said. “The concept is tomorrow is today and today is tomorrow. about having a point of difference. “It’s about a point of view,” she declared. “If The things that happen today inform us for the future and where we are going.” you don’t have a strong perspective of who you are as a brand, that’s when things He illustrated the last point by recalling a Neiman Marcus buyer who tipped RR M KE start falling apart at the seams. Brand point of view sits at the heart of cultural him off to how powerfully Lauder’s Youth Dew bath lotion was selling. That A relevance, universal values and consumer relevance.” inspired Lauder to gamble all the money the company had to turn the fragrance Individual brand identity is a subject dear to the heart of Wende Zomnir, chief into a sensation that rocketed Lauder into orbit. “There are opportunities

creative ofﬁcer and cocreator of Urban Decay. She found cause for complaint in everywhere you go,” he said, “if you just listen.” S BY ILLUSTRATION

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10 WWD BEAUTY INC CORNER OFFICE

MASTER CLASS The Spirit of The Moment When it comes to creating eye-catching brand campaigns, Neil Kraft has a knack for the knock- out. BY JENNY B. FINE / PHOTOGRAPHED BY MICHAEL NAGLE

eil Kraft is the rare individual who combines true creative expertise with business acumen. In his work with the likes of Barneys New York, Calvin Klein, Coty and Elizabeth Arden, he has created campaigns that transcend advertising to become cultural phenomena. Who can forget Na naked Kate Moss lying languidly on a couch for Klein’s Obsession or frolicking topless with Marky Mark to sell blue jeans, to name just the most famous examples. Kraft is known for being as direct as he is directional. Here, during a recent conversation in his SoHo ofﬁce, which is dominated in equal parts by stacks and stacks of art books and eye- popping orange ofﬁce accessories, Kraft opens up about defying conventions in a world resistant to radical change.

Can you describe what you do? How do you see your role? My father used to call me and he’d go, ‘Do you take the pictures?’ And I’d say, ‘No.’ He’d say, ‘Do you write the ads?’ And I’d go, ‘No,’ and he goes, ‘So then what is it that you do do?’ [laughs] What I do is try to create beautiful things and create something simple and meaningful that will break through. The hardest part of my job is trying to create things that break through with clients who don’t always want you to break through. Are most clients reluctant to push the creative envelope? In our business, you’re only as good as your clients. When we did CK One, it was the cosmetics company, which at the time was owned by Unilever, that was pushing us to break all the rules, not Calvin. That created ground-breaking advertising. We still get people who come in and say, ‘I want to do CK One’ or ‘I want to be Gucci’ and I ask, ‘Are you willing to change everything?’ It doesn’t happen overnight. Are people willing enough to take risks today, and does reward necessarily follow? There are people out there who take risks. One of the things that is interesting about Elizabeth Arden is that they are questioning the basic precepts of beauty advertising. That IN BRIEF Neil Kraft graduated from the Rhode Island School of Design with a degree in is more rewarding than doing a straight beauty ad. But on photography. In 1982, he joined Barneys New York as senior vice president of advertising the whole, when the economy is bad, as it has been, people and marketing, where he helped transform the retailer’s image from a dowdy men’s suit emporium to a take less risks. If you look at the advertising, you can see hipster downtown designer haven. A decade later he was appointed senior vice president of Calvin Klein, and in 2000, he created his own company: KraftWorks. Today, he serves as president and chief creative the testing. The basic thing that is going to come out of any o!cer of the ﬁrm, which has a client roster that includes Elizabeth Arden, La Prairie and Voss, among others. testing procedure is that customers want to see themselves.

That can be done well, in the way that Dove does it. Or OF NEIL KRAFT. COURTESY PHOTO

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it can be done poorly. If you see a foundation ad, we rolled out in bits. We were able to leverage her How has that impacted the new campaign you’ve there’s four different people in the ad—there’s a millions of Facebook followers by showing a part of created for Elizabeth Arden? white model, an African American, an Asian and a Taylor they hadn’t quite seen yet. It was a fantasy. Arden has embarked on a five-year plan to turn the Latina. That comes from testing. Celebrity advertising has to be real to the person. brand around. We’re trying to modernize the brand Is that done poorly in your opinion? Taylor’s life is so open that if you did an ad with by using both the heritage and modernity together. It’s not that it’s done poorly. Some people do it well. something that didn’t feel right for her, people The only job I ever got fired from was Arden in It’s that it’s uninteresting. It’s expected. There’s got wouldn’t react to it. Celebrities today are not the mid-Nineties. We were trying to do the same to be another way to do that. But there’s probably Elizabeth Taylor, who had this incredible mystique. thing then, but they weren’t willing to go the whole not another way to do it and have it test well. You knew she was with Richard Burton, but you nine yards—redo the packaging, the stores. Arden Are we overreliant on testing? didn’t know the details of her life. In a way, those has now gone the whole nine yards. It’s very easy Advertising in general is overreliant on testing. people were more malleable. to change an image, but when the other consumer What did Henry Ford say—if we asked people what Are you seeing more creativity today in product, touch points don’t live up to it, you are in deep s--t. they wanted we’d be riding around in horses instead packaging or communications? Creating a new ad campaign is not that expensive. of cars. To some extent that’s true. Testing is valuable The most interesting stuff is coming out of the Redoing all your stores is. You just saw that with J.C. for getting a sense of what’s going on in the world. interactive world, because you can tell a much longer Penney. Redoing real estate and physical packaging For example, on CK One, we tested the concept, and story. There is nothing wrong with print, but it’s going is an enormous undertaking and Arden has done learned a lot about how that generation spoke to to be two-dimensional. that. Now we have no excuses. We have to show each other and related to each other, and that’s what That being said, a TV ad campaign is three- people what’s new about Arden. That was what the campaign was about, but we never showed them dimensional, and you said after you watched they didn’t do before—the important half of the re- the campaign. branding. You’ve been involved in some seminal moments in Did the firing of Ron Johnson at J.C. Penney the worlds of fashion and beauty. Which stand out? surprise you? The thing that changed a lot for me was Obsession at There are people who said they are surprised it Calvin Klein. Obsession was an existing fragrance, but happened so fast and there are people who said we were trying to figure out where to go next. That’s they are surprised it took so long. I’m on the took- when Patrick Demarchelier found Kate Moss. The so-long side. He ran into exactly what I’m talking layout originally had a picture of Vanessa Paradis, and about, which is the cost of remaking that much real we couldn’t get her. Patrick said, as only he can, ‘This estate is unreasonable. It’s a tough position that girl, Kate Moss, she is almost the same. She will be many big chains are in. If they want to remake their fine.’ Of course, once we saw her we loved her. And to image, they have to remake their stores, and that is be allowed to run a picture of her naked on a couch— incredibly expensive. that was the first time I was given utter freedom. How would you describe your management style? What did you learn from it? I try hard to inspire people. There are times when I It taught me that the bigger the risk, the bigger the speak in shorthand and I think people understand reward. If you look at the big successes, from the but they don’t always. There is a difference between Volkswagen Beetle to Apple, they took risks. Apple what I hope my management style is and what it came out with an MP3 player. It wasn’t a unique sometimes is. product, but they took risks in how they sold it, how How do you manage creative people, who by nature they marketed it and how they designed it. Calvin Kraft with Kate Moss circa 1994. aren’t quantitative and analytical? taught me risks are worthwhile. It’s not easy. When you work with creative people, How have you seen the role of creativity evolve? the Grammy Awards you were struck by the the motivations for what they say and why they do it It has become more democratized. It’s so easy to do, homogeneity of the 30-second beauty ads. are sometimes unfathomable. It is very hard to keep in a way, it somehow starts to lose its value, because There are two types of spots. The hair spot, where them engaged, and that’s what you have to try to do. it’s so pervasive in our culture and media is so easy the girl always has perfect hair that falls in a shiny What do you look for when you hire? to create. When I was first an art director, you had to cascade. Then there’s [skin care] and when you go Interactive has gone from zero percent of our cut out pictures and cut out type and figure out what beyond [makeup], you start to get into the world of business to 70 percent. That being said, my aesthetic it was going to look like and send it to a typesetter. It claims and the claims are just an arms race. I watched is modern and beautiful. People with an interactive was a lot harder. It’s just really easy now. Therefore, both, [and thought] does anybody believe this? background have absolutely no idea how to make because everyone has access to the same tools, you How does the message need to evolve? anything look good. People who can make stuff look have to try harder. It’s time for people to be honest. It’s time we said, beautiful have no idea how to do interactive. That’s In this supersaturated, overcrowded market, what ‘Look, we are not miracle workers. That’s not to where the rubber hits the road—to find people who is attention grabbing today? say our product doesn’t work. But it’s not going understand both. It doesn’t happen every day. I wish It’s much harder to shock people now. The Internet to transform you into a radiant beauty.’ The girls it would happen more. It’s starting to. has not only democratized things, it’s opened up the in these ads went through five hours of hair and What do you love about your job? world to everyone. You have to find a way to start a makeup and have been heavily retouched. That is I love seeing the work in public. One of the great dialogue with the customer and listen to them and where the backlash is coming from. The less real it experiences of my life was at a sushi bar in L.A., engage them on a social level. becomes, and the better the technology becomes to when they put the Voss water bottle that I designed How have you done that successfully? make it unreal, the more people get unreasonable on the table. I’m not normally like this, but I was With the Taylor Swift fragrance, for example, instead images of what can and cannot be done and the like, ‘That’s my bottle!’ That is just incredibly

PHOTO COURTESY OF NEIL KRAFT. COURTESY PHOTO of just doing a commercial, we created a movie that more disenchanted consumers become. rewarding.

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BLACKBOOK Patricia Wexler Dermatologist Patricia Wexler has become as famous as her clients— think Brooke Shields, Kathie Lee Gi!ord and Christie Brinkley, to name a few—thanks to an unerring sense of the aesthetically pleasing. Superfashionable with impeccable taste, Wexler is an avid practitioner of the art of beauty, in both her personal and professional lives. Here, Wexler’s go-to guide for the best that New York City has to o!er.

Pleasure Business BAND: The Doors, AIRLINE: United Airlines. Always friendly, The Grateful Dead. roomy and I get my luggage fast. CELEBRATION RESTAURANT: APP: Gilt. You can ﬁnd the same clothes Sette Mezzo. Feels like home. We as in stores, but at half the price! know the staff and it feels effortless. But, you must be fast. Always a happy experience. CAR SERVICE: Regal. regalcar.com 969 Lexington Avenue; BUSINESS TRAVEL CITY: Chicago. 212-472-0400 They have the best hotels and restaurants. Crown. Exceptional food and RESTAURANT FOR BUSINESS LUNCH: atmosphere for special guests. Eleven Madison Park. Great for special 24 East 81st Street; 646-559-4880 meetings. It’s quiet and the tables are nicely PATRICIA WEXLER, CHAMPAGNE: DERMATOLOGIST AND spaced. 11 Madison Avenue; 212-889-0905 ENTREPRENEUR Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé. Fred’s at Barneys. Always warm and inviting. You don’t get a headache after. Fun people watching, too. CHOCOLATIER: Debauve & Gallais at Barneys. 660 Madison Avenue; 212-833-220 Health & Beauty COFFEE ORDER: Venti Latte with RESTAURANT FOR BUSINESS DINNER: DERMATOLOGIST: Dr. Francesca Fusco half-and-half from Starbucks. Estiatorio Milos. Great food. The front room at Wexler Dermatology. DINER: Three Guys is less noisy and their two private rooms for 145 East 32nd Street; 212-684-2626 Restaurant. Great conference meetings are great. DRY CLEANER: Bright Cleaners. Ask for Claudia. comfort food 125 West 55th Street; 212-245-7400 1406 First Avenue; 212-772-6472 and great with HAIR STYLIST: Rebekah Forecast at Sally little children.

Hershberger Salon. She always listens to 1232 Madison FLORÉAL what I want—it changes all the time. Avenue; 425 West 14th Street; 212-206-8700 212-369-3700 MANICURIST: Liz George at John Barrett Salon. FLORIST: Floréal. I’ve gone there for more years than I can count. They know just what I love. 754 Fifth Avenue; 212-872-2700 info@ﬂorealnyc.com; MAKEUP ARTIST: Berta Camal at Jed Root Inc. 212-662-7929 or Linda Hay at The Wall Group. Jedroot.com; HIDEAWAY: Then it wouldn’t thewallgroup.com be a hideaway! STYLIST: My mother trained me well! PLAY: The Trip to Bountiful. TRAINER: Claire Morgasen. The Stephen Sondheim Theatre; Pilates, yoga, she does it all. 212-239-6200 Saperestudio.com; 718-715-0911 Matilda the Musical. CLOTHING STORE/BUSINESS: Bergdorf ’s Shubert Theatre; 212-239-6200 by a small margin. I love The Row, Lanvin STATIONER: Crane and Co. and Céline. 754 Fifth Avenue; 212-753-7300 TICKET BROKER: American CLOTHING STORE/EVENING: Express Centurion. WEXLER PHOTO BY LEXIE MORELAND; CROWN BY ADAM KANE MACCHIA; RUNWAY BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT BY RUNWAY MACCHIA; KANE ADAM BY MORELAND; CROWN LEXIE BY PHOTO WEXLER I wear Carolina Herrera, Donna Karan, Lanvin, VACATION SP OT: Chanel and Vera Wang. I love them all. The One & Only Ocean Club in the SHOE STORE: Tie between Barneys and Bahamas in the winter and Bergdorf ’s. Do not make me choose! The Plaza Athénée in Paris in June. 660 Madison Avenue; 212-826-8900 What could be better? Oceanclub. CAROLINA CLOTHING STORE/WEEKEND: Barneys Co-op. oneandonlyresorts.com HERRERA CROWN I Love J Brand, Alexander Wang and Tory Burch. Plaza-athenee-paris.com

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RECOGNIZING EXCELLENCE IN LUXURY SERVICE KATHY CHEN HAS PROVIDED OUTSTANDING MEET KATHY CHEN, SERVICE TO KIEHL’S SINCE 1851 IN SANTA CLARA, CALIFORNIA, KIEHL’S CUSTOMER REPRESENTATIVE AT FOR SIX YEARS. VALLEY FAIR MALL, SANTA CLARA, CA

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO BECOME A KIEHL’S CUSTOMER REPRESENTATIVE? I’ve been a Kiehl’s customer since 2001. When I wanted a part-time job after retirement, I came to Kiehl’s.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE PART OF THE JOB? I love our product, and the sense of community with people I wouldn’t have met if it weren’t for this job.

ANY ADVICE ON BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS WITH YOUR CLIENTS? Sincerity and honesty are key. Genuinely try to help customers build healthy skin routines for the long term.

WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU OFFER AN ASPIRING KIEHL’S CUSTOMER REPRESENTATIVE? Take advantage of Kiehl’s educational tools. Get to know the product, so you can provide customers with a truly useful consultation

WHAT ARE YOUR CAREER ASPIRATIONS? This is probably the most enjoyable career I’ve had. I am so lucky to have landed at Kiehl’s. .

WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR FAVORITE BEAUTY PRODUCTS? I love our Calendula Toner, Rosa Arctica Lightweight Cream and the Avocado Eye Cream.

WHAT DOES YOUR BRAND MEAN TO YOU? Kiehl’s means natural, and it’s all about connecting to others. Our outreach programs really foster a sense of community and education. “I WANT TO HELP CUSTOMERS ACHIEVE HOW WOULD YOU DEFINE BEAUTY? Beauty is health. And what’s inside will show on the outside. TRULY HEALTHY SKIN FOR THE LONG TERM.” WHO ARE YOUR BEAUTY ICONS? Audrey Hepburn—she was beautiful inside and out, and Meryl Streep.

Kiehl’s is proud to recognize exceptional customer service in luxury beauty. 14 WWD BEAUTY INC BEAUTY BULLETIN

Oribe Soft Dry Conditioner Spray, $35 Bumble and bumble ALMAY COLOR + BENEFIT STAY MARC JACOBS Bb Thickening Dryspun CARE LIQUID LIP BALM FLAWLESS 15-HOUR HONEY On the heels Finish, $29 This hybrid lip product PRIMER Housed in a of a triumphant fall L’Oréal Paris Magic combines vitamin E and portable stick, this helps collection, Marc Jacobs Nude Liquid Powder a blend of oils to deliver foundation stay intact builds on his empire with Bare Skin Perfecting Makeup, $12.95 the hydrating features for as long as 15 hours. his 11th scent, this time of a balm with the Reportedly, 94 percent mixing juicy mandarin Maybelline New York glimmering shine of a of testers claimed it amid honeysuckle and Color Tattoo Pure Pigments, $6.99 each gloss. $5.99 helped their foundation a drydown of golden last longer. $32 vanilla. $72

Contains only eight ingredients

MITOQ TARTE LIGHTS, TAYLOR POWER ANTIOXIDANT CAMERA, FLASHES BY TAYLOR SWIFT REJUVENATION STATEMENT MASCARA The seven-time Purportedly 1,000 times This double-sided, two- Grammy winner’s stronger than coenzyme toned brush features second fragrance Q10, MitoQ’s signature flexible bristles and a marries top notes of molecule is said to revive vitamin-infused formula fruity lychee with a skin cells and prevent to lengthen, intensify, heart of vanilla orchid POWDER PLAY fine lines and wrinkles. separate and magnify and a base of apricot Dry is the new wet. Powders are showing up in a $185 lashes. $23 nectar. $59.50 variety of formats for the second half of the year, from L’Oréal Paris’ innovative liquid-to-powder foundation to Oribe’s delectable dry conditioner spray. “Among the fastest areas of growth Available are less-traditional formats and hybrids,” says online only The NPD Group’s Karen Grant, “which o!er a mash-up of benefits and new applications.”

LAUNCH WINDOW

AVON MEGA CARVEN LE PARFUM BOND NO.9 EFFECTS MASCARA Perfumer Francis NYC HTTP://WWW. Replacing the Kurkdjian brings BONDNO9.COM standard mascara out Carven designer Fusing bergamot amid What’s In Store wand, this comblike Guillaume Henry’s blackcurrant and Rounding up June and July’s most innovative products. BY JAYME CYK applicator fits the signature mix of whimsy amber, this Internet- curve of the eyes to and simplicity in this inspired scent has coded define and lift lashes. blend of mandarin packaging consumers Available in two blossom, jasmine and can scan with a QR shades. $7.99 white sandalwood. $109 reader to be taken to the fragrance’s URL for ON TARGET instant purchase. $250 From René Furterer’s frizz- fighting fluid to Nioxin’s styling elixir for thinning locks, a bevy of brands are rooting for hair repair. And no wonder: According to The NPD Group, targeted hair treatments increased 46 percent in dollar growth and accounted for PANTENE PRO-V CHANEL LE JOUR, LA L’ORÉAL PARIS sales of $11.7 million in 2012. EXPERT COLLECTION NUIT AND LE WEEKEND YOUTH CODE TEXTURE ADVANCED + KERATIN Designed to work in PERFECTOR DAY/ REPAIR KERAGLOSS tandem, Chanel’s NIGHT CREAM This has OIL MIST Keratin and a new trio reactivates, perline-p, an ingredient blend of argan, jojoba, recharges and renews skin blending three actives to ARROJO Whipped Treatment, $24 sa!ower, olive and throughout the week and help minimize pores and DR. DENNIS GROSS Root Resilience sesame oils fight split is targeted towards a lines as well as improve Anti-aging Scalp Serum, $54 ends, frizz, dryness and younger consumer in her skin discoloration. dulled color. $13.99 20s. $85, $85, $115 $24.99 NIOXIN Rejuvenating Elixir, $14.50 RENÉ FURTERER PARIS Lissea Leave-In Smoothing Fluid, $30 PRODUCT PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; RUNWAY BY DAVIDE MAESTRI; POWDER BY SHOTS STUDIO SHOTS BY POWDER MAESTRI; DAVIDE BY CHINSEE; RUNWAY GEORGE BY PRODUCT PHOTOS

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Rosy the Riveter After taking a backseat to eyes and lips, the cheek is reemerging as a focal point of the face. This summer sees a spate of blush launches, particularly in lighter textures such as creams and gels. “Blusher is back because everyone loves to have that fresh look on their face, like you just went for a jog,” says Terry de Gunzburg, whose newest blush, in a tube, infuses the treatment properties of hyaluronic acid with eye-popping pigments. For its part, Chanel is launching a powder-cream iteration, while Dior’s version comes in a pot and Josie Maran’s in a handy stick format. “Cream and liquid blushers are great because they are more natural looking,” says de Gunzburg. “They adhere to the skin like a color print.” —JAYME CYK

PHOTOGRAPH BY ANNA PALMA

Butter London Marc Jacobs Chanel By Terry Cheeky Shameless Josie Maran Le Blush Dior Hyaluronic Cream Blush Bold Argan Color Crème de Diorblush Blush in in Naughty Blush in Stick in Blush in Cheek Crème Blushberry, Biscuit, Rebellious, Pink, $22. A!nité, in Capri, $42. $20. $30. $38. $30.

%%3*;%%2SHQHUDLQGG $0 PRODUCT PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; EXTERIOR PHOTOS BY DAVIDE MAESTRI; INTERIOR PHOTOS COURTESY OF KIKO MAKE UP MILANO. OF KIKO COURTESY INTERIOR PHOTOS MAESTRI; DAVIDE BY PHOTOS CHINSEE; EXTERIOR GEORGE BY PRODUCT PHOTOS

The Bright Idea: Inside Kiko Make Up Milano’s multifaceted, multicolor universe.

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RETAIL REPORT Milan’s Makeup Sensation Meet Kiko, the hottest beauty concept on the European retail scene. BY CYNTHIA MARTENS

ove over MAC. to take care of themselves and play with makeup… Kiko Make Up Milano is quickly They’re looking for innovation. This is a fast- carving out a lucrative niche in the moving brand.” European color cosmetics market. Kiko offers more than 1,000 stockkeeping units, Founded by the Percassi Group from powders, pencils, lipsticks and glosses galore in 1997, Kiko’s vibrant colors, to facial cleansers, antiaging creams, sunblock, Mtrendy selection, accessible prices and easygoing self-tanner, fake eyelashes and about 20 different atmosphere have generated a loyal following. mascaras. Over the past few years, the company has The brand’s store experience is built around expanded its range of foundations and concealers 9/52! pop music, a rainbow display of cosmetics and to cover all complexions, from darkest to lightest.

O MAKE UP MILANO. service that is hands-on without being pushy. “The The brand’s philosophy is to offer well-made, customer comes in and is able to try all the products attractive products made in Italy, and sell them for /.% 34/0! freely, with the support of the staff. The shopping “the right price,” says Cecchini. To that end, pencils experience has to be fun,” says marketing director start at 4.20 euros, $5.45 at current exchange; lip Margherita Cecchini, adding that with new items in gloss at about $9; foundations and powders at 3(/0! stores every two weeks, many shoppers come back $15.50 and mascaras at $9.30. regularly—not unlike those perusing the racks at While the skin-care offering has expanded since retail powerhouses H&M and Zara. the brand’s inception—the antiaging serum Skin FOR! The connection is tangible: The Percassi Group, Trainer ($30) is a recent bestseller—the real draw

AVIDE MAESTRI; INTERIOR PHOTOS COURTESY OF KIK COURTESY INTERIOR PHOTOS MAESTRI; AVIDE a Bergamo, Italy-based commercial and real estate remains eye-popping color. Particularly popular are giant, formed a joint venture with Inditex Group in Kiko’s eye products, including Water Eyeshadow 2001 and brought Zara to Italy in 2003. Last year ($11.40) and Long Lasting Stick Eyeshadow ($9). %8#,53)6% the group also bought Madina Milano from the A rotating series of one-shot color collections, cosmetics supplier Intercos, acquiring the Madina available for three to six months, has also been Revolution and Madina C brands as part of the good for business. "%!549!.%73 package. Currently, Kiko has more than 530 sales points

GE CHINSEE; EXTERIOR PHOTOS BY D BY PHOTOS GE CHINSEE; EXTERIOR While the fast fashion–loving 15-to-35 crowd in eight countries, including Germany, France, represents Kiko’s core customer, Cecchini says Spain, Portugal, the U.K., Austria and Switzerland. the age range for shoppers is wide. “Our target Italy accounts for roughly half of all sales. Cecchini customers tend to return with their mothers and says the door count will rise to about 600 by Now... grandmothers,” she says. “They’re people who love yearend, and while she declined to divulge where PRODUCT PHOTOS BY GEOR BY PHOTOS PRODUCT the company will expand, she s!$AILY!SCOOPS does say: “We certainly have an international vision.” Kiko also has a signiﬁcant s!,INKS!TO!TOP!STORIES e-commerce presence, which Cecchini says has been crucial for reaching customers outside s!3EARCHABLE!ARCHIVES city centers or major shopping districts. The site features detailed explanations of all products and a forum where customers can review products and discuss them with each other. Noting that the transparency online has built 6ISIT trust between the brand and its devotees, Cecchini says, “The Web #%7/2'"%!549).3)$%2 site is the ultimate representation of our way of working.”

%%3*;.LNR6WRUHDLQGG 30 $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT %%3*;&&6KRS6WDONDLQGG 18 things unlesssomeonegivesmeareason to.” says. “I know what I like, so I rarely try new animal test and contain few ingredients,” she is a brand loyalist. “I look for brands that don’t spends around $360 annually on beauty, and It’s a good reminder to restock.” McLeod try harder. I’ve had these bottles for a while. a bit of encouragement, can be convinced to teacher. “I’m pretty low maintenance and, with skin,” says McLeod, a 32-year-old philosophy and learned better ways to take care of my to $25. “Four years ago I started coming here entitled her to choose a free product worth up she was returning her 10th bottle, which bring back empty tubes and bottles. Today, program, which incentivizes consumers to advantage of the Recycle and Be Rewarded Danae McLeod was at Kiehl’s to take What’s in Danae’s Bag? McLeod. out,” breaks says usually skin my month a fewtimes a this use don’t I “If MASQUE $23 PORE CLEANSING RARE EARTH DEEP smooth. it keep to helps oil argan the and frizzy get to tends hair McLeod’s $18, $19 CONDITIONER SHAMPOO AND SMOOTHING ARGAN SUPERBLY WWD $ TOTAL SPENT 75. BEAUTY INC 00 *

received through Kiehl’s Recycle andBeRewarded program.) *Pretax totals. (McLeod’s total reﬂects onefree product she CONSUMER CHRONICLES LOCATION: STORE: DATE/TIME: SHOPPER: Kiehl’s Danae McLeod 400West 14th Street 5.10.2013, 1:15p.m. McLeod. products,”says travel-sized need I so Poland, and Norway to weeks few a in traveling be to going “I’m 2.5 FL. OZ. $9 CLEANSER ULTRA FACIAL CORRECTIVE WHITE the initial products products initial the SKIN BRIGHTENING legitimate impact impact legitimate McLeod. “It had a had “It McLeod. DERMATOLOGIST “This was one of wasone “This EXFOLIATOR $29 me to use,”to me says someone told someone on my skin.” my on SOLUTIONS SHOPPER STALKER CLEARLY DISTRICT, N.Y.C. MEATPACKING MEATPACKING What’s in Amanda Celia’s Bag? Celia’s Amanda in What’s feel itwhenyouputon.” knows how expensive your hair product is, but you the nice ones. It’s kind of like hair products. No one panties. No one sees them, even though you bought girl,” says Thompson. “It’s like when you wear silk it to buying intimate apparel. “I love feeling like a loves most about shopping for beauty, she compares experience when you walk in.” When asked what she it has an appeal of an editorial salon. You get an to Wonderland just to feel the vibes. I like how atmosphere,” says Thompson. “It’s worth the trip she is drawn by the hipster appeal. “I love the Angelo’s Wonderland Beauty Parlor, where $800 annually on beauty, is a regular at Michael 23-year-old fashion designer, who spends about money on,” says Thompson. “100 percent.” The when it comes to hair care. “Hair stuff I’ll spend Amanda Celia Thompson won’t scrimp on quality straight.” stick it wear than ﬂow rather little a it give to like “I Thompson. hair,” my out says blowto brush round a use “I BRUSH $68 MEDIUM ROUND SHU UEMURA MASQUINTENSE $60 saysThompson. blonde hairtends to get really dry,” because moist, hair my keeps “This KÉRASTASE HAIR ESSENTIALS gave this gift set set gift gavethis SHU UEMURA to her mom for mom her to ON THEGO$55 Mother’s Day. Mother’s Thompson Thompson

NUTRITIVE

—JAYME CYK ﬂyaways at bay. at ﬂyaways keeps and protection heat provides This THERMIQUE $39 RESISTANCE CIMENT KÉRASTASE Thompson LOCATION: STORE: DATE/TIME: SHOPPER: Wonderland Beauty Parlor $ TOTAL SPENT 327 Michael Angelo’s Amanda Celia 418 West 13thStreet

spray for the scent, and and scent, the for spray 5.10.2013, 2:42p.m. the oils from your roots roots your from oils the down to the ends,” the she to down says. “I never brush my brush never says. “I me that it’s healthy to healthy it’s that me brush your hair to getto hair your brush LIPSTICK INNUDE$18 hair, so I use this as a as this use I hair,so Thompson loves this loves this Thompson .50 PROTECTIVE OIL$68 “My hairdresser told hairdresser “My ESSENCE ABSOLUE DRY TEXTURIZING a just-rolled-out- just-rolled-out- a “It gives a Sixties Sixties a gives “It Thompson, “and “and Thompson, has a really nice nice really a has uses it to createto it uses * SHU UEMURA

replacement.” MAKE SPRAY $19.50 consistency.” NOURISHING of-bed look. look. of-bed feel,”says ORIBE MATTE $0

SHOPPER PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO; PRODUCTS BY GEORGE CHINSEE C ONSU MER GOOD S 2 0 11 LEND GLAM

T w w O D w .mane AIL OUR . c Y LIFE om

THE CREATIVE ISSUE 20 WWD BEAUTY INC

BY COMBINING TECHNICAL VIRTUOSITY WITH A SINGULAR VISION, PAT MCGRATH HAS BECOME THE MOST INFLUENTIAL TRENDSETTER IN MAKEUP. BY JENNY B. FINE

race Coddington says there is only one way to describe her great friend, superstar makeup artist Pat McGrath. “I always think of her as a very shiny person,” says Coddington, the creative director of Vogue. “Maybe it’s her manner. Maybe it’s just her per- Gsonality. She is extremely warm and she is so pleasant to be with. And on top, she is totally brilliant.” Coddington is, of course, right. McGrath speaks with a smile in her voice, peppering her ideas, thoughts and observations with frequent terms of endearment like “my darling” or “my love.” She’s a physical conversationalist, always reaching out to give a little squeeze or leaning forward with eyes widened, completely engaged in the moment. That charm, coupled with her unparalleled approach to makeup—those who work with McGrath agree the term “genius” is not an overstatement—has elevated her to the very highest echelons of the style world, where she is the makeup artist of choice for photographers like Steven Meisel and top fashion houses including Prada, Gucci, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Dolce & Gabbana, Calvin Klein and many, many more. She may spend much of her time in the rarefied world of couture, but what truly makes McGrath powerful is that when it comes to commercial considerations, she’s got killer instincts. Take her approach to in-store appearances, which, as global cosmetics creative design director for P&G, she does occasionally for Dolce & Gabbana The Make Up. “I’m obsessed,” McGrath says, using one of her most favorite words. “I tell the salespeople, ‘We have to beat every counter here. Tell me when the last appearances were, with who, which brand. Did we break the record?’ That’s all that matters. “If you’re going to turn up at a store,” she finishes, “you want to know that people love the products.” “Pat wants to win,” seconds Esi Eggleston Bracey, vice president of global cosmetics at P&G. “She feels like the brand’s success is her success. That is something I didn’t expect in the beginning.” The line that snakes around the entire beauty floor whenever Mc- McGrath working on Grath and her team turn up at Saks Fifth Avenue for a personal ap- model Alana Zimmer of Women Management. pearance attests not only to her product-development prowess, but Hair by Stefano Greco at to her power as one of the beauty industry’s most influential creators Bryan Bantry using Oribe. PHOTO BY BEN HASSETT BY PHOTO

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IN LIVING

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of trends. As fashion shows have become a global phenomenon avidly followed by the general public in real time, McGrath’s work as the most prolific artist working today—she does about 25 shows a season—means that every time she opts for a neon-red lipstick or bold brow, the news is instantly transmitted and immediately noted by style-obsessed women worldwide. “When a beauty trend is happening on the runway, 90 percent of the time Pat is behind it,” says Sarah Brown, Vogue’s beauty director. “She is the most directional makeup artist working today. It’s an understatement to say that her work for various runway shows filters down. What she does absolutely effects global beauty trends.” McGrath herself has noticed the change in consumers firsthand. “Before, if a new product came to the market, they’d read about it and run out and buy it, whereas now, women want to know how to do it, how a certain celebrity did their 2012 2005 makeup or how to do the look at a show,” she says. “They want to know how “Pink for Cover Girl. Lustrous “Lydia Hearst. “Shaved eyebrows and bold, the look came about, the history of it—it’s all about information. The coverage of sheer color. E!ortless beauty!” Enchanted beauty.” graphic shapes on Karen Elson!” beauty has gone through the roof.” Information is something that McGrath thrives on. “The thing that is so special is that Pat’s always supremely interested,” says designer Anna Sui. “She wants to hear the story behind every collection. She loves to be inspired, and ends up doing even Snippets of everyday life also inspire her. “I ARTISTS WHO INSPIRE more research on her own, and then shows up with all of the ingenious elements to walk into the most incredible fashion houses McGRATH create that ideal look.” and see the most incredible things—new Leigh Bowery Creating the ideal look is no simple matter. McGrath is legendary for traveling technology, new ideas, new music. Incred- to shoots and shows with as many as 50 large black duffel bags in tow. Each is ible lighting, new girls,” she says. “Maybe Richard Prince individually labeled—there are bags for lashes, colored lashes, cream color, fab- it’s a feature on a girl, maybe it’s her mouth, ric, mesh, feathers, foundation, lipstick, lip gloss, Swarovski crystals, pigments, maybe it’s her eyes. It’s like an energy that Andy Warhol pencils, etcetera, etcetera, etcetera—a practice which started at a very early age. just happens because of what you’re faced John Currin “My mother started taking me shopping to buy makeup when I was six,” says Mc- with. It’s almost like a puzzle.” Grath, when asked if she remembers the first beauty product she ever bought. “I Jenny Saville had quite a trunk of makeup from age seven. Tons.” (Frequent travelers will appreciate the fact that McGrath checks her bags for each Gustav Klimt flight herself. While nothing has ever been lost, delays are not unknown. When Mc- ut what catches McGrath’s Otto Dix Grath went to Monaco to do the makeup for the Dior resort show in May, there was eye can just as easily be the just such an occurrence. “The [conveyor] belt went round and round and the bag mundane as the sublime. didn’t come off. The horror!” she says, eyes wide. “The special-services desk said it Terry Jones, the editor in was on the next flight, so I waited in the airport and then all of those bags came off. chief, creative director and Nothing. Finally, everyone was gone and off came my little bag.”) publisher of i-D magazine, There are also numerous bags—“five, eight, 15,” McGrath says, when asked Bmet McGrath during her early days in London and quickly enlisted her to be the how many—filled with books, many of which are bookmarked with yellow Post-it beauty director of his then-fledgling magazine. “She loved the way older women notes. There are art books, photography books, fashion books. Books on tattoos that she would see in London did their makeup. It would have that smudgy qual- and books on beauty. There’s a book called simply “The Eyebrow” and another ity, because as you get older your eyesight goes and it’s not as specific and you favor devoted to film stars of the Fifties. Pho- brighter colors,” recalls Jones. “Pat used that as inspiration for a story. She wasn’t a to albums filled with Polaroids of the makeup artist who just did as she was told. She brought creativity to the table, and looks McGrath has created for different she wouldn’t stop until she had what she wanted.” magazines and designers round out the While she’s adept at referencing the past, what really drives McGrath is the fu- collection. ture. “I’m always looking for new things,” she says. “Wherever I am in the world, I PHOTOGRAPHERS “She has a huge library, and she in- try to find the time to go and look for something new. Doing so many shows every WHO INSPIRE McGRATH stinctively has a great reference of his- season is very demanding. Every show has to be different.” Steven Meisel tory, film, pictures, theater, characters And every show is, from the starkly minimalist to the wildly theatrical and ev- on the street, club land, every kind of erything in between. “What sets Pat apart is her enormous variety and range,” Irving Penn youth cult is in her mind” says hair stylist says Coddington. “She can turn her hand to anything, from no makeup to almost Guido Palau, who often works with Mc- stage makeup. She attacks whatever it is with the same vigor and enthusiasm. Richard Avedon Grath on photo shoots and on multiple That is why she works for absolutely everybody. She works on every show. I don’t Brassaï shows. “She might pull out a book at a know how she does it.” shoot or a show. She’s looking for an eye, Coddington is exaggerating when she says McGrath does every show—but only Bill Brandt a period, a feeling. At a shoot, when she’s just. Last season, McGrath did 26, the bulk of them in Milan and Paris. She likens talking to the editor, she might pull out the entire process to a military operation, complete with multiple motorcycles to Erwin Blumenfeld the Polaroids of the girl who we’re work- transport herself and her team of 50-plus artists from show to show and multiple Man Ray ing with that show the different make- vans to ferry their gear. “It’s like a huge makeup army,” McGrath says. “I love it. ups she’s done on her over the years or Sometimes nothing happens at a show for the first two hours and in the last hour Cecil Beaton last season. She details everything.” we have to do all 70 girls. It’s an adrenaline rush.” (McGrath adds a big black duf-

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McGRATH ON McGRATH THE MAKEUP ARTIST SHARES HER THOUGHTS ON SOME OF HER MOST MEMORABLE CREATIONS. 1997 2013 2004

“Lydia Hearst. “Shaved eyebrows and bold, “Modern chic with Fei Fei Sun.” “Bold fearless beauty.” Enchanted beauty.” graphic shapes on Karen Elson!”

ARTISTS WHO INSPIRE fel devoted exclusively to flu medicine, relaxing aromatherapy bath oils and the That ability hasn’t gone unnoticed by the corporate arm of the beauty industry. McGRATH like during show season.) In her current role at P&G, McGrath works on Cover Girl, Max Factor, Dolce & Leigh Bowery Those who have seen her in action say she thrives on such moments. “Under Gabbana The Make Up and SK-II, with wide-ranging duties that include ideating pressure is when she works best,” says designer Donatella Versace. “When the pres- shade ranges, starring in how-to videos, providing product-development feedback Richard Prince sure is on backstage, there is no more-welcome sound than Pat’s infectious laugh- and consulting on creative direction for ad campaigns. “She’s more than a makeup ter. You know everything is going to be all right.” artist. She’s really a creative director for our businesses,” says Eggleston Bracey. Andy Warhol Some of the most memorable looks McGrath has created were for Dior under its “Pat sees things differently than other people,” says Luigi Feola, who, as vice John Currin former designer, John Galliano, fantastical creations that might feature multihued president of the luxury pillar of P&G Prestige, oversees Dolce & Gabbana The paper cut-outs, crystal-studded lashes and feathers, all on one eye. Make Up. “She sees nuances in shades and application that others miss. She Jenny Saville “John and his team really played with makeup. I remember bringing a girl down helps shape the palette with colors and textures that express the designers’ vision once, and she had on probably 10 pairs of lashes and three pounds of eye shadow and and advises us on how the product needs to perform, where we can make it bet- Gustav Klimt the hugest, glossiest lips,” McGrath says. “We brought her into the studio for a make- ter,” he adds. “She brings to our product line a level of depth and refinement that Otto Dix up test, and John said, ‘We’re not do- wouldn’t be possible without her.” ing a beach story. This is not about a McGrath tests products on herself, on models, on friends and at shoots and natural look.’ He wanted more.” shows. A true product junkie who likes to hit Barneys and Saks early in the morning McGrath relishes executing the to buy the latest launches, McGrath describes what she loves about products as if wide range she’s become known for, WOMEN McGRATH she’s reciting poetry and says too much is never enough. “When people say products and notes that simpler doesn’t always WOULD LOVE are always the same, well, they aren’t. There is always something a little different,” TO MAKE UP. mean easier. “People always say the she says. “If you’re a makeup addict, there’s always a reason to buy cosmetics.” wildest makeups are the most chal- Jordan Her passion for all things makeup begs the question: Is McGrath considering lenging, but the most natural can be the original punk icon her own line? challenging, too,” she says. “When “Maybe soon,” McGrath says. “I’d love to do my own line in the future.” you have to make every girl serenely Billie Holiday Still, rumors have swirled for years—she is, she isn’t, soon, maybe not. As to what’s beautiful with the most perfect skin Marie Antoinette stopped her in the past? “I’m a busy girl, you know? I work with a lot of amazing and then for that girl to look as if brands,” she says. “Every day my life is nonstop. It’s challenging and exciting.” she’s not wearing an ounce of make- Sophia Loren McGrath may be tentative about the timing of such a venture, but not about the up, when one girl has rosy cheeks, clarity of her vision. “There is always space in the market,” she answers when asked one has eyelashes, one doesn’t, one Bette Davis if she sees white space. “Women never stop needing new ideas—there is a lot of has light blonde brows, one black Siouxie Sioux space for new ideas and new products and different approaches.” brows. That can be the most difficult As someone whose livelihood is based on creating the next trend, McGrath’s thing to do because you’re trying to Dorothy Dandridge ideas about limitless possibilities for new products mirror her approach overall. She replicate Mother Nature.” professes to never becoming attached to a look, idea, color or texture. “She has no There is one signature to her Marilyn Monroe qualms about erasing what she’s just spent an hour creating,” says Palau. “She is not work, no matter the look, says Palau. Tamara de Lempicka scared of doing things, of pushing herself, of wiping it off and starting again. She is “Pat has a way of making a face feel passionate about her work, but not precious about it.” alive and breathing. It doesn’t mat- Audrey Hepburn McGrath would be the first person to agree with that assessment. Ask her if she ter how much makeup there is, it ever goes through phases where she’s loving a particular direction, and she just still feels like it’s breathing,” he says. Grace Kelly laughs. “Maybe for a minute. No one will allow you for longer,” she says. “Trust me, “She is an expert at creating differ- Dora Maar you think you’re on to something, but the next thing, you’re thinking, I love the ent balances of light and dark, moist color but now it’s too heavy, I need to sheer it out, now I need it to stay. and dry. She makes the face come Renee Perle “You are always constantly moving,” she concludes. “In this business, you are alive like no other.” the muse of Jacques Henri Lartigue never resting on your laurels.” Q

%%3*;3DW0F*UDWKDLQGG 30 THE CREATIVE ISSUE WHEN WORLDS COLLIDE HISTORICALLY, FASHION DESIGNERS HAVE FOUND THE MAKEUP COUNTER HOSTILE TERRITORY FOR EXPANSION. BUT AS A NEW GENERATION OF CONSUMERS LOOK TO IMMERSE THEMSELVES IN THE TOTALITY OF A DESIGNER’S WORLD, FASHION BRANDS ARE INCREASINGLY MAKING THE FORAY INTO BEAUTY. BY JENNY B. FINE ILLUSTRATION BY AMELIE HEGARDT

esign is a series of creative choices. It’s editing and adding, it’s a dialogue, it’s a collaborative effort,” says Marc Jacobs. It’s a late Thursday afternoon in May, and Jacobs is talking about his creative ideation process with around 90 beauty editors, who sit captivated in little gilt chairs in a room where the black-and-white geometrically pat- terned marble ﬂoors bear a striking resemblance to the ESTY designer’s spring collection. They’re gathered here for the R YLER unveiling of Jacobs’ color cosmetics collection, a 120-stock- T keeping-unit line which Sephora has developed and will sell TYLED BY TYLED BY exclusively in its stores beginning August 9. S “Of course, me, I’m in a director role,” Jacobs goes on, “saying, ‘that HINSEE / works or doesn’t work,’ ‘I like that’ or ‘I don’t like that’ or ‘maybe we can tweak C

this into that.’ It’s about putting things together. It’s an evolutionary process.” EORGE G The editors have just seen the line in its entirety—supershiny black compacts HED BY HED BY

with slightly rounded edges and mirrors inspired by the idea of an inﬁnity pool; P nail lacquers in colors ranging from moody to vivid, all named by Jacobs him- HOTOGRA

self; and elliptical blushes stamped to look like faille, a favorite fabric of the de- P signer. Lip glosses in two different ﬁnishes reﬂect his love of texture, Blacquer

eye liner his penchant for the blackest black imaginable and unisex products PRODUCTS

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%%3*;:(//'HVLJQHU0DNHXSDLQGG 30 %%3*;:(//'HVLJQHU0DNHXSDLQGG 26 onlybring customers in to shop, but to leave them with an exceptional experience get the in-store experience perfect, with the right real estate, packaging,tion required. etc., It to takes not a great deal of investment to make this a reality.“The You challenge have to is to link the creative vision with theof the high luxury level pillar and of paceP&G Prestige, of innova who oversees Dolce & Gabbananaturalaisty extension The designer’sMakeaof Up.creativity,” saysLuigi Feola, vicepresident ment are as high today as they’ve been in the past, point out market experts. “Beau inNorthAmerica. withscantsuccess,particularly times, most andCalvin Klein have all tried to crack the color code in the past, some Versace Furstenberg,numerous Sui, von Anna Diane Lauren, Ralph ket,thelandscape litteredis withthose whodidn’t makeit. push the premium end of the marketplace,” she says. tinue to see them leading the way and con theywe market, the are“Throughout percent. 10 of gain alsooverall helping to percent in 2012, and 14 percent in the lip category versus an centthefaceincategory versusoverall an market gain6 of per 14 gained brands designer says Grant sales, cosmetics prestigecolorpercentof representbrandssigner 12about andglobal beauty industry analyst NPD.of Noting that de becomecolorauthorities,” saysKarenGrant, vicepresident signertobreak in, those who have become entrenched have gainstoo.“We’ve seenthatwhile it’s beendifﬁcult de fora GiorgioTomshowingArmaniBeautystrongFordandare DiorandYSL are driving sales, butmore recent entries like Chanel, like Established brands French Group. NPD The according moment, to the at category overall outper theforming are which brands designer the is it oversees), also largest-sellinggroup ofbrands inprestige cosmetics (led byMAC, which Demsey became aspirational, knowwhat makes becausethey youlookbest.” ofthe makeup-artist brands,” he continues. “The knowledge of the makeup artists the business was either celebrity or based on authenticity, whichstrong begat celebrity the growing dynamic for the last 10 to 15 years, whereexperiential the aspirational aspects of thenature cosmetics of business,” Demsey says. “Then wedesignerthemegabrand, wentas intowhich translated a itselffragranceintomore thethan ties,when yougo back tothe years ofHalston andDVF. From that, wewent into “Thelasttime sawwesuch iteration an designerof cosmetics wastheinSeven line,Demsey is a virtual walking encyclopedia of the modern-day beauty industry. cosmetics category. Lady Michelle Obama wore his gowns to both inaugurations. Lancôme is collaborating with Jason Wu, the designer who shot tolater fame afterthis Firstyear, while P&G is said to be workingBurns’ Batallure on a Beauty Guccito enter linecosmetics to and launchis reportedly in readying 2014 a launch and for designerChristian Louboutin signedjoint a venture withindustry veteran Robin Gabbana,Dolce&relatively all recententrants category.the to Meanwhile, shoe projectsthatare launching thisyear, joining thelikes Tomof Ford, Burberry and Kors, Matthew Williamson, Pierre Hardy—each has afﬁxed his name to cosmetics The whole is equal to the sum of its parts.” makeup.message.theWewithoutand thathairthinkingcouldn’t theaboutdo rics.We think about the set, the spirit of a girl and we even try to sendfab out a new textures, colors, Wechoose mood. a spirit, a of think show,we fashion a ate white leather Adidas sneakers and black-and-white striped socks. “When we cre cobs continues, who today is wearing a pristine white shirt, black cotton trousers, with quirky monikers like Makeout lipbalmareanodtohisloveofhumor. Jacobsisn’tonlythedesigner withmakeupmind.hisAlber on Elbaz, Michael “Iwanted to do makeup because I love the entire ritual of getting dressed,” Ja The hurdles for a designer to establish a viable presence in the cosmetics depart Still,as Grant notes, for every hopeful entry into the mar While the makeup-artist brands haven’t lost their cachet, and collectively are the A group president at the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. who oversaw the launch of Ford’s “It’sbaaaaack,” says John Demsey with laugh,a when asked about thedesigner

WWD

BEAUTY INC ------Giorgio Armani ------tationsin terms of trends and high performance,” Arriagada continues. “The digital inbeauty. trendsrelevant designersandtheirabilitybetween toimpact perceive a level of authenticity between the originality and point of differentiation,time,” says Margarita Arriagada, chief merchant of Sephora forUSA.consumers “They aretohave ablethis direct to view, this visibility, into designers’ worlds inreal er’suniverse, more sothan ever before. “Thedigital agehas provided accessibility wanttoknowit’sthey investing in.” worth saysGrant.“People morecarefultheirarespendingspend,in do whenthey and “Withinthe beauty space, consumers are becoming more savvy about their expec design a of entirety the in versed well extraordinarily also are customers Such Michael Kors somethingthat feels like a treat, something that is a bit special,” signer?investment“Consumersandesirefor purchase,havea de well-known a than aspirational more what’s products—and prestigetionalbrandsluxurybeautyofsalesdrivecontinue to didn’thavethey apointofdifference today.” versuswhat exists problemwith lots of brands that we’ve seen come and go is that difference. ofpointreal The ahavedon’t you ifterm longthe departmentscarceit’sverystoresanddifﬁcultis survive forto withcultfootwear designer Pierre Hardy thisspring. “Space in tiveofﬁcer ofNars, which launched limited-editiona collection execuchiefDesazars,Louisthe to invest for the long run,” agrees sive, and you need to be prepared a luxury brand.” that they’ve come to expect from What is different, however, are consumers. High-end aspira High-end consumers. are however,different, is What “It is very complex and expen Alber Elbaz - - Marc Jacobs 30 - - - -

ARMANI PHOTO BY DAVID YODER; KORS AND ELBAZ BY JOHN AQUINO; JACOBS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; DE LA RENTA AND LOUBOUTIN BY THOMAS IANNACCONE WWD BEAUTY INC 27

but bringing a point of view that is innovative. The execution is as important as the collaboration.” To wit, designer lines with staying power are those with star products— Yves Saint Laurent has Touche Eclat, Giorgio Armani has Luminous Silk Foundation, Dior has mascara, Chanel, nail lacquer and lipstick and Tom Ford, Illuminating Primer. “There needs to be a strong point of view or a dif- ferentiator that goes beyond packaging,” says Demsey. “They all have a cult Oscar de la Renta beauty product, one item that is highly differentiated from the pack.” Other designers are testing the waters with capsule collections, an approach that is much less onerous financially. Michael Kors, whose Leg Shine bronzing Christian Louboutin stick engendered a cult following when it launched in 2006, is introducing a tight lineup of color cosmetics in August exclusively at Macy’s. Working with age has opened their eyes and they are its licensee, the Aramis and Designer Fragrances division of Lauder, Kors created able to see directly how designers can three collections—Sporty, Sexy and Glam—each with a fragrance, two lip glosses, impact what is happening in beauty.” two lipsticks and two nail polishes. “Everything we’ve done in the beauty world has That has shifted the sphere of in- been because I’ve genuinely felt something’s missing,” Kors told WWD in April. “As fluence—or at least made it broad- we see this evolve, if I see something that’s going to be an added component, that er—and made designer cosmetics helps tell the story and helps simplify the whole beauty process for the customer, a viable category again. “In the era absolutely. But there won’t be a set formula. It’s an emotion, not a commodity.” of instantaneous information and Since taking its fragrance license in-house in 2011, Oscar de la Renta has also streaming live video and red carpet been testing the waters to see what resonates with its customer base, most recent- and fashion everywhere, hair and ly by launching three limited-edition nail polishes on Net-a-porter.com. “Color is makeup has become an intrinsic part such a part of our brand DNA, and we’re constantly trying to find authentic ways of the look,” says Demsey. “For today’s to bring a truly luxurious Oscar product to consumers at a lower price point,” generation, the validation of the de- says Alex Bolen, chief executive officer of the house. “If our bread and butter is Tom Ford signer matters again.” a $5,000 cocktail dress, the world of people who can not just afford it but have the need to wear it is not that big. On the other hand, the world of people who consume lipstick or nail polish is very large.” As attractive as the potential is, Bolen is quick to add a caveat. “Having said that, beauty is a hugely competitive business,” he continues. “You’ve got the dichotomy of the big global brands, all of whom do a great job, so how do you compete in the face of that? We have to find a different way to move forward and establish a presence and get the confidence to make more material investments.” CCONE Partnering with a retailer—as Sephora did with Marc Jacobs—is one such option, provided the retailer is prepared to make a significant investment to achieve he newest iterations of designer makeup take many differ- a distinctive assortment. “If retailers are looking for differentiation, it may feel like ent forms. Some are full lines, such as Tom Ford and Marc it is more necessary to create such a line, to create this point of difference,” says Jacobs. Equally as prevalent are beauty brands collaborat- Wendy Liebmann, ceo of WSL Strategic Retail. “But you have to balance the level of ing with fashion brands for limited-edition projects—such differentiation with the cost of differentiation, and it’s not an easy route.” as Matthew Williamson and Benefit, Pierre Hardy and Nars Having a global presence is one key to amortizing the cost of producing a new and Alber Elbaz and Lancôme. “People love being surprised line. “Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors are recognized in the emerging markets like by brands—there are so many brands, so many people doing China, Brazil and Russia, in markets with a lot of potential,” says Liebmann. “The good products, so many bloggers talking about everything, economic situation and population growth in emerging markets is one of the driv- that today you’re not launching a product, you’re telling peo- ers that, when brands looked at this opportunity 10 years ago, didn’t exist.” ple a point of view,” says Youcef Nabi, the former president of Lancôme who spear- “As we’ve grown, we’ve emphasized the fact that we’re a lifestyle brand with a headed the project with Elbaz. The collection features mascara and eye shadow global, democratic approach to style,” says Kors. “You can shop for Michael Kors palettes covered in the designer’s signature whimsical drawings. “We are moving anywhere in the world and get a totally luxurious handbag and a quick chic flip- from the notion of showrooming our products to entertaining people.” flop. The color line fits into the strategy of being a one-stop brand for everything Noting that everyone from her 7-year-old son to 90-year-old L’Oréal heiress you need to look great.” Liliane Bettencourt were charmed by the products, Nabi continues, “There is That vision of world domination will become a major factor in whether design- a strong change in our industry. There is less and less excitement about having ers can establish long-term viable beauty businesses. “Today, in our business, to another BB cream or antiaging product. Brands are selling a point of view and be truly successful, if you don’t have a business that plays in at least two out of the storytelling. With this collaboration, you can’t say, ‘This mascara lengthens your three major markets—Asia, Europe and North America—you don’t have a busi- lashes more than the competitor’s.’ People don’t care. They want the product that ness,” Demsey says. “There are not that many designers with international cachet.” everyone is talking about. There are new dimensions and the collaborations with Still, the executive expects to see more such lines launching before the dust set- designers are a strong part of that.” tles. “It’s like what happened with the makeup-artist craze. First there are none, Nabi and Desazars both agree that for such a collaboration to be truly success- then a few, then someone breaks through, then there are more, then there are too ful, the participants have to be creatively aligned and the end product true to the many and then the market rationalizes,” says Demsey. “It’s a superinteresting phe- ethos of both brands. “Retailers are looking for strong stories and angles which nomenon. I don’t know if it’s a backlash against the makeup artist or an evolution

ARMANI PHOTO BY DAVID YODER; KORS AND ELBAZ BY JOHN AQUINO; JACOBS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; DE LA RENTA AND LOUBOUTIN BY THOMAS IANNA THOMAS BY AND LOUBOUTIN CHINSEE; DE LA RENTA GEORGE BY JACOBS JOHN AQUINO; BY AND ELBAZ KORS YODER; DAVID BY ARMANI PHOTO are very creative,” says Desazars. “It’s not only about coming out with new colors, of the makeup artist, but it is deﬁnitely a trend.” Q

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THE LATEST GENERATION OF SUN CARE GOES BEYOND—FAR BEYOND—THE TRADITIONAL PARAMETERS OF PROTECTION. BY MOLLY PRIOR / PHOTOGRAPHED BY PHILIPPE SALOMON

unscreen is out to shed its reputation as simply a beach-bag staple. “Sun care is the ultimate antiaging practice,” says Gisela Ballard, executive direc- Once viewed largely as a commodity product found seasonally, tor of marketing at Shiseido. “A sunscreen product is only effective if it’s applied sun care has evolved into a bona fide part of a beauty regimen, the correctly, so our focus is to create textures that are pleasant.” To that end, in March first line of defense against the signs of aging and skin cancer. Shiseido expanded its Urban Environment range with Tinted UV Protector 43, us- Beauty brands are working to convert consumers into more ar- ing new technology to perfectly distribute sunscreen across uneven surfaces. dent users of sun care by refining the textures and infusing tradi- The consumer clamor for multifunctional products—as evidenced by the BB tional protective products with serious skin-care benefits. craze—has prompted many brands to rethink their approach. “The consumer’s There is even room for sun care in the luxury tier, as evidenced demand for convenience is a big factor in the effort to marry sun protection into by La Mer’s introduction of the Soleil de la Mer collection in serious skin care,” says Diana Howard, PhD, vice president of research and devel- April, which combines broad-spectrum protection with antiaging ingredients opment at Dermalogica. “With new technology, we’re able to develop more elegant Ssuch as golden algae to reduce irritation and alaria esculenta to fight free radicals. formulas that are more along the lines of skin care versus sun care.” In July, Derm- “We wanted to take sun care one step further with a reparative line that revitalizes alogica will launch Age Smart Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF 50 featuring oleosome the look of skin as well as protects it, focusing on diminish- technology, to deliver active ingredients like sunscreen ing signs of sun damage that had already occurred,” says directly to the skin’s surface and release them over time. Loretta Miraglia, La Mer’s corporate vice president, global Kate Somerville and Alchimie Forever are also shifting brand product development and innovation. from a separatist approach to a combined one. Ada Polla, La Mer is not alone. Many brands are increasingly em- Alchimie Forever’s president and ceo, says clients have been phasizing the link between sun care and antiaging, and clamoring for a day cream with SPF, but the brand had the message is only expected to get louder with the re- opted to keep the two categories separate in the interest of cent report from Australia’s Annals of Internal Medicine, efficacy. But that changed when Alchimie Forever’s scien- which is the first research that shows sunscreen has an tists formulated a product that provides effective protection actual effect on the appearance of skin. with a desirable texture and antioxidant-rich ingredients. “The lines are so blurred right now between sun care The result is Daily Defense SPF 23. “Consumers wanted a and skin care. It’s all coming together,” says Holly Thag- product with both—and they were right,” says Polla. gard, founder and chief executive officer of Supergoop!, Kate Somerville is launching Daily Deflector Water- who adds that multifunctional sun-care products give light Broad Spectrum SPF 50+ Anti-Aging Sunscreen, the once-seasonal business year-round staying power. which relies on a delivery system that ensures the sun- This fall, QVC plans to exclusively launch Supergoop! screen stays in a reservoir on the skin’s surface, while an- Advanced SPF 37 Anti-Aging Eye Cream—well after tiaging ingredients address moisture and skin tone. Says the traditional sun season. “We found a big white space Elizabeth Vanemburg, vice president of marketing, “Sun for sun care for the eye area that also had the benefits of care is coming into skin care, which is easier for consum- an eye cream,” says Thaggard. ers to accept” rather than the reverse. Ever-evolving regulations are also changing the dynamics of the category. During For its part, L’Oréal’s La Roche-Posay is working to refine sunscreen textures her speech at the WWD 2013 Beauty Summit, BlueMercury cofounder and chief while using as few ingredients as possible. The brand found that almost three-quar- executive officer Marla Malcolm Beck cited sun care as a key area of opportunity. ters of women are concerned about the ingredients in their sunscreen, particularly “Over the past [several] years, the FDA has changed the labeling requirements so the high concentration of chemical fillers. In response, it introduced Anthelios Cell- many times that often after we launch a new product it gets discontinued,” says Ox Shield XL in April, which uses 21 percent fewer ingredients than before. Beck. The investment required to keep pace with the regulations has scared off “Texture has been a need-gap in the sun-care category for a long time,” says An- some smaller brands, with mass lines picking up the slack. gela Bennett, vice president of La Roche-Posay, who adds that fewer ingredients Beck is encouraged by new offerings from La Mer, Kiehl’s and SkinCeuticals. But aligns with the consumer trend of “no nasties and all goodies.” she longs for a dermatologist-created sun-care range with refined textures that are Mass skin-care brands are also angling for a piece of the action. L’Oréal Paris has organized by skin type. “You’ve got a wide-open market in prestige to own sun care.” infused its Revitalift Triple Power Day Lotion with SPF 30. The new formula is de- While the prestige market is still small, it is growing—a trend expected to con- signed to boost collagen production, while defending against UVA and UVB rays. tinue. “Given the movement we’ve seen in complexion products, sun care will likely Meanwhile, Neutrogena’s new Beach Defense Sunscreen line provides both broad- become more important,” says Karen Grant, vice president and global industry ana- spectrum and photostable protection designed to make the product last longer; lyst of the NPD Group. The prestige in-sun care category, which excludes self-tan- Aveeno’s Protect+Hydrate collection melds protection and moisturization. ners and after-sun products, gained 8 percent to $54 million in 2012, with products The increased amount of activity seems to be driving consumers to the category: that feature an SPF of 30 or more gaining 15 percent. Sunscreen sales gained 4.7 percent to $1.47 billion across all retail channels last Shiseido, which has a strong footing in the higher SPF category, occupied the top year, with the premium tier gaining 11 percent, says Euromonitor’s Tim Barrett.

spot in the overall sun-care category in 2012 according to NPD data. “Our message hasn’t changed,” says Ballard. “But the consumer has.” Q HYDE BEVERLEY BY CHINSEE / STYLED GEORGE BY PHOTO PRODUCT

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BY BREAKING THE RULES OF TRADITIONAL FRAGRANCE MARKETING, GROUPE CLARINS HAS PIONEERED A NEW WAY TO BUILD A MODERN CLASSIC. BY JENNIFER WEIL / PHOTOGRAPHED BY NATHAN PASK

orget about thinking outside the box. How about outside the entire every woman there’s a nice and a naughty angel. solar system? “Each element of the marketing mix—from the fra- That’s pretty much what Thierry Mugler did some 21 years ago grance to the bottle, name, communication—was in when it dreamt up Angel, a blue fragrance that smells a bit like candy rupture with the codes of the market and permitted and comes in a star-shaped bottle that seems spawned from a UFO. the brand to bring a real added value,” says Charlotte Hardly an obvious winner, sales started out slow, but Angel quickly became a commercial Tasset, Printemps chief merchandising officer for force that remains out of this world. beauty, child and lingerie. “It was a concept that was It’s estimated that a bottle is sold every 10 seconds worldwide, and the scent continues to top audacious, innovative and brought a new gesture, a rankings in many countries. Some years ago it even supplanted France’s perennial number-one new approach to selective perfumery.” women’s perfume, Chanel No. 5, for a period of time. Some retailers welcomed Angel, while others re- Turns out going against the grain is a recipe for success in the fickle world of fragrance sales. jected it. “You definitely have to find a concept which is out of time—or timeless,” offers Vera Strubi, the fragrance mar- “When Angel launched in the U.K., it was a fra- keting visionary who launched the Angel project in 1992. grance like we had never seen in the country before,” “[Angel] was a game-changer—in many ways,” says Deborah Walters, senior vice president and general mer- reminisces Mark Tranter, fragrance buyer at Selfridg- Fchandise manager for cosmetics, fragrances and intimates at Saks, which carried the fragrance exclusively in the es, where Angel—and Mugler’s newer from-another- U.S. for several months after its introduction. planet scent, Alien—remain in the top five. Angel had multiple unusual facets: The juice was based on edible notes and housed in a bottle that lay flat and Those rankings are not an anomaly. Rather, they was refillable. Fittingly for a scent backed by no market research, it employed guerilla sampling techniques and illustrate Mugler’s unique model for creating block- relied on high service quotients. buster fragrances. “They are really about creating a Even its name was newfangled. long-term business model with the emphasis on the “When Thierry Mugler created this fragrance, the tag line was ‘Beware of Angel,’” recalls Christian Courtin- customer experience,” says Walters. “What worked Clarins, chairman of the supervisory board at Groupe Clarins (Mugler’s owner), who explains the idea is that in then works today.”

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JOËL PALIX

%%3*;:(//7KLHUU\0XJOHUDLQGG 30 The brand was also one of the first to employ social marketing, even before the digital age. As with Clarins skin care, each box of Angel contained a card for consumer feedback. That evolved into what’s today called the Circle, comprised of clients who can receive special products, previews, information and tips. It now ties in more than a million members. “Our best ambassadors, our evangelists, are the first women who wear it,” says Palix. “Initially there was only a very small fraction of women willing to take the risk.” Angel’s rollout was gradual because Clarins didn’t have a large team or the subsidiary network it has today. Palix estimates Angel took about five years to really gain traction and considers the two to three years after its launch as a “seeding period.” “I see our re- sponsibility like a gardener’s; we have these beautiful plants or beautiful trees,” continues Palix. “They are at various stages—some are little seeds in the earth, some have started to blossom and some are like solid, big trees. But all need care.” Still, by the mid-Aughts, Angel’s business had started to plateau. “The business model had to evolve,” says Pa- lix. “We were becoming a classic, and a classic for us had to combine some unique ways of marketing Angel.” For one, Mugler expanded distribution in the U.S. and stepped up the advertising budget, signing on Naomi Watts to represent the romantic side of the scent, and then Eva Mendes to embody its more sensual part. Limited-edition line extensions were also launched, such as the Liqueurs de Parfum, involving perfumes treated similarly to luxury spirits, and The Taste of Limited-edition Angel bottles from 1992 to 2007. Fragrance, which introduces into juice compositions what the company calls a “taste enhancer.” “We explore the boundaries of perfumery, mixing “Mugler has always thought differently,” agrees Lucian James, creative director and founder of Paris-based the savoir-faire of perfumery with one of the other strategic consultancy Agenda Inc. “More than anything, it’s a brand that knows how to make people feel some- métiers,” says Palix, adding that every once in a while, thing. In marketing, as well as in life, that’s 90 percent of the battle.” Mugler opts to add “a new branch to the tree.” Paradoxically, much of Mugler’s strategy sprang from corporate limitations. A full 18 years after introducing the Angel eau de “One of my first mottoes when I arrived here was to say that constraints create talent,” says Joël Palix, the parfum, the brand launched Angel Eau de Toilette, energetic president of Clarins Fragrance Group and director general of Thierry Mugler SAS. Palix, an exuberant for instance. executive partial to Mugler suits, became the president of Thierry Mugler Parfums in early 2007 when Strubi “Time is the essence,” he says. “Masterpieces take retired. He says family-owned Clarins doesn’t have deep pockets and is by nature risk averse, since the firm’s time to create. We launch when we are ready and foundation is in skin care—a category that demands the utmost precision. sometimes we postpone.” Another big constraint is brand awareness. “We are not a major fashion brand [today],” says Palix. “We don’t Since 2009, Angel’s sales have grown by 30 percent. have the traditional conditions for succeeding in fragrances. I tell my team to leverage those constraints and turn (By comparison, the premium women’s fragrance them into advantages.” market worldwide rose just 4.1 percent between 2009 Creating unique products is key in the “ultracompetitive landscape,” he says. “The product needs to be stron- and 2010; 9.8 percent between 2010 and 2011, and de- ger than the brand.” clined by 0.4 percent between 2011 and 2012, accord- From the outset, Angel was nothing if not unique. “The scent was polarizing,” says Walters, of the juice con- ing to Euromonitor.) cocted by perfumer Olivier Cresp, then of Quest. Mugler has also set itself apart by creative social “If two percent of women love it and 98 percent hate it, that’s fine,” laughs Palix, with an accent on “fine.” “We networking—in addition to The Circle, the brand has are the happiest. It’s a fragmented market. So if you manage to capture 2 percent of women in every market with created platforms such as the Blogalaxy, which started one product, you are among the top-10 women’s fragrance leaders. That’s what we try to do.” by inviting fans from the Circle to write blog entries on “Mugler knows that by trying to appeal to everybody, you appeal to nobody, and that it’s better to get the the Mugler brand. Mugler instigates fetes, too—Angel pulses racing of a few than to try to convert everyone into a consumer,” says James. “They’ve always understood parties, for instance. Here, through the Internet in that you need to draw consumers in, not chase after them.” some markets, the label locates its best ambassadors, Angel, first carried in just 200 French doors, also had La Source—a fragrance fountain to refill bottles—from invites them to organize parties and sends them a kit the outset. The idea stemmed in part from the fact that manufacturing the scent’s bottle was so expensive that of materials, such as samples, to animate them. In the there had to be an additional revenue stream. U.S. it has held Celestial Events after hours in depart-

PHOTOGRAPHED BY GEORGE CHINSEE / STYLED BY BEVERLEY HYDE

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ment stores, where, for instance, new prod- huge figures. You have to be brave enough to put in ucts are presented to consumers, who can small figures and grow the figures every year because also buy limited editions. you are quite sure that it will work but it needs some The Angel Room Service, also launched time. If the retailer is not overloaded with product and in the U.S. through its e-commerce sites, your brand is strong enough, you can convince him to involves a monthly subscription fee (with keep the products in stock. three options) allowing people to get three “We created a lot of buzz when we launched” she packages of the scent’s products, includ- continues. “Everybody is looking to please the retailer, ing full and sample sizes, during a year. while in fact customers—they love something special. “I like to mix digital and the physical,” A good fragrance is something that’s an evocation, an says Palix. emotion—it’s not a commodity.” Today Mugler’s overall strategy is bear- Executives believe that to solidify Mugler’s emotional ing fruit. Angel ranks in the top 10 world- relevance today, it needs a closer tie-in with fashion, wide among women’s prestige fragrances, and in April, Palix announced he is looking for a full- according to Palix’s estimates. Last year it time creative director to oversee both the fashion and was fourth in France, seventh in both the fragrance businesses. “We need to give more thought U.S. and U.K. and 13th in Italy, according about how important and how much we invest behind to The NPD Group. fashion, because we have managed to compensate for An ad campaign from 2003. Hoping to strike twice with another un- the lack of fashion until now,” he says. “But to go to the usual fragrance concept, Mugler introduced next stage and be in the top five feminine fragrance Alien in 2005 with a similar strategy, albeit in broader selective perfumery distribution. brands, now is the time to obtain more support from “We were not the best-selling new fragrance of the year,” allows Palix, qualifying the scent was in the top the brand itself.” 20 in 2006, the top 25 in 2007 and 22nd in 2008. “[In April] our ranking was number 10 in France. So “No fragrances are successful without the image of you see the time it takes to become a classic?” fashion,” says Courtin-Clarins. Not to mention a certain degree of convincing, especially when a fragrance carries such an unusual name. “This idea of one brand, one creative vision is very “There is no way many women suddenly decide that ‘Alien’ is their fragrance,” Palix reasons. modern, very contemporary,” says Palix. “It’s what peo- According to Strubi, some people won’t even try the scent because of its name. “You have to be sure that ple are asking for today, and that could have an impact your fragrance is so good that once people start wearing it and other people smell it, then slowly you build on our future business.” the success,” she says. Mugler fragrances, which currently place eighth “Alien is a more deliberate attempt to provoke the audience, to be deliberately extreme and to extend the idea globally among luxury feminine scent brands, perform of Angel to a darker, more mysterious territory,” says James. “It’s marketing built more on the visceral appeal best in the U.S. and Europe and have registered strong of the brand.” growth in the Middle East and Latin America. The Further, some people believed the opulent juice with an overdose of jasmine sambac was almost masculine company has targeted Russia, Asia and travel retail as in nature. The company deployed a massive sampling campaign to develop Alien, both at point of sale and in key areas of future growth. the press. And three years after its launch, Alien’s communication was changed. “The initial concept that Mr. As for a new fragrance? “Not in the near future—our Mugler had in mind was a messenger of peace, and we found this a bit too mystical,” says Palix. “It evolved into last launch was in 2010,” says Palix. a solar goddess, and that image was very well-received and gave a boost to Alien.” “Mugler doesn’t play by the rules of luxury, which are Since the purple bottle was considered a bit dark, summer versions were introduced along with other line now so overestablished that innovation has become dif- extensions, such as Essence Absolue, which involved a new generation of flacon. ficult,” says James. “There is a purity about Angel, which “We create a collection of bottles,” says Palix, noting that it’s become a signature of the Mugler strategy. “We is unique. It’s a great product which appeared at the don’t replicate each bottle. This is a way of differentiating.” perfect moment, and everything appeared to be aligned Alien may have started slowly, but sales are soaring now. Palix’s goal is to make it one of the top-five fragrances to guarantee its success when it came out. Like all great globally in the next three years. “It has the potential to overtake Angel,” he says. “Right now it’s 80 percent of [the successes, it seems to have been a perfect mix of talent, Angel business], and in markets like Italy, England, Germany and the Middle East it has already overtaken An- strategy and some happy accidents.” gel.” According to NPD, in 2012, Alien ranked fifth in the U.K., seventh in Italy, 14th in France and 43rd in the U.S. So could lightening strike for another label with an The third major fragrance introduction by Mugler was Womanity three years ago. It’s taking longer to gain out-there fragrance idea? traction than its predecessors, which Palix acknowledges could be due in part to the fragrance’s fig-caviar accord. “Many brands have tried to replicate the success of “It is a segmenting juice that, like with Angel or Alien, has managed to stand out from the competition, and Angel,” says James. “But none have succeeded.” Q that pleases a certain category of clients. The weakness may be in the communication, which is less aspirational than on the preceding launches,” says Printemps’ Tasset. “It’s a launch that allowed us to recruit a younger clientele to the brand.” “It’s a slower build, but steady,” agrees Selfridges’ Tranter. The Angel Advantage: 5 Key Points Despite the company’s track record, it’s increasingly difficult to get retailers Uncommon Goods: Uniqueness counts. Products that try to be all things to all people end up appealing to no one. to agree to such a prolonged time frame. “Where it’s more difficult nowadays is Give It Time: Strong businesses often require a slow build. to convince retailers that we have got time to install a new product,” says Palix. Limit the Launches: Angel waited 18 years to introduce an eau de toilette version of the “We’ve seen on Womanity that the time line of giving us several years to build classic parfum, instead opting for interesting iterations of the bottle and concept to fuel newness. such a fragrance is more difficult to obtain. This is something to think about, in Social Studies: Mugler has tapped into the power of the brand’s advocates from the start; terms of strategy.” activities today range from a dedicated blog to bespoke parties to mail-order replenishment. Strubi stresses the importance of patience rather than having great expecta- Evolution of Growth: Rather than jettison a project, Mugler makes continual tweaks to tions from the outset. “Everybody today makes a plan, a two-year plan, with its brand’s strategies to maintain their relevance with consumers.

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