AN ISSUE OF WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY THE CREATIVE ISSUE ANGEL’S ASTONISHING RUN ON THE EDGE WITH NEIL KRAFT FASHION TAKES ON BEAUTY—AGAIN Hello Darling! INSIDE THE MAGICAL WORLD OF MAKEUP ARTIST PAT McGRATH %%3*;&29(5DLQGG $0 $QQSPWFEXJUIXBSOJOHT SUN PROTECTION FOR EVERY SKIN TONE UNDER THE SUN SUNCARE BREAKTHROUGH THE 1ST SPF 50+ SUNSCREEN IN AN OIL* NEW SHEER PROTECT SUNSCREEN OIL SPF + 50 I UVA/UVB broad spectrum protection I Effective sun protection for all ethnicities I Clean, non-greasy feel I Dermatologist tested Won’t clog pores or cause acne Also available in SPF 30 and 15 ** LOREALPARISUSA.COM/SUN ©2013 L’Oréal USA, Inc. *Sublime Sun Sheer Protect Sunscreen Oil SPF 50+ is the fi rst SPF oil with SPF 50 or above in mass market. **The Melanoma Research Alliance name and logo are used with its permission which ADVANCED SUNCARE in no way constitutes an endorsement, express or implied, of any company or product. The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends this product as an effective broad spectrum sunscreen. For every skin tone under the sun. SUN PROTECTION FOR EVERY SKIN TONE UNDER THE SUN SUNCARE BREAKTHROUGH THE 1ST SPF 50+ SUNSCREEN IN AN OIL* NEW SHEER PROTECT SUNSCREEN OIL SPF + 50 I UVA/UVB broad spectrum protection I Effective sun protection for all ethnicities I Clean, non-greasy feel I Dermatologist tested Won’t clog pores or cause acne Also available in SPF 30 and 15 ** LOREALPARISUSA.COM/SUN ©2013 L’Oréal USA, Inc. *Sublime Sun Sheer Protect Sunscreen Oil SPF 50+ is the fi rst SPF oil with SPF 50 or above in mass market. **The Melanoma Research Alliance name and logo are used with its permission which ADVANCED SUNCARE in no way constitutes an endorsement, express or implied, of any company or product. The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends this product as an effective broad spectrum sunscreen. For every skin tone under the sun. 4 WWD BEAUTY INC FEATURES 20 In Living Color Superstar makeup artist Pat McGrath is as influential as she is inventive. 24 When Worlds Collide With consumers clamoring for aspirational goods, more and more fashion designers are testing the waters of a category once thought impossible for most to break into: color cosmetics. 28 The New Sun Times Once viewed largely as a commodity category, sun care is quickly becoming synonymous with skin care. 30 Halo E!ect By single-mindedly pursuing an unconventional approach to fragrance marketing, Groupe Clarins has made Angel a powerhouse in the world of perfume. DEPARTMENTS CORNER OFFICE 10 The Spirit of the Moment Playing it safe was never his style: Image guru Neil Kraft knows the bigger the risk, the bigger the reward. 12 Black Book: Patricia Wexler The dermatologist to the stars shares her favorite resources for business and pleasure. BEAUTY BULLETIN 14 Launch Window Key products hitting stores now. 15 Rosy the Riveter Summer’s fresh take on blush. 16 Milan’s Makeup Sensation Inside Europe’s fiercest new beauty concept. CONSUMER CHRONICLES 18 Shopper Stalker Who’s buying what—and why— in New York’s Meatpacking District. MISC 8 Pete Unplugged WWD’s executive editor of beauty Pete Born on the main message at the 2013 WWD Beauty Summit: Innovate or run the risk of extinction. 34 Flash Point Keeping up with beauty’s movers and shakers. The new age of protection: Page 28. Photograph by ON THE COVER: Pat McGrath photographed Philippe Salomon. for WWD Beauty Inc by Ben Hassett. Hair by Karina Castenada at Ecco Gioia Salon. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2012 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year a"er the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 205, NO. 127. SATURDAY, June 22, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks a"er receipt of order. Address all editorial, one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: the request to 212-630-5883. 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For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post O!ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. %%3*;72&DLQGG 30 THE NEW WAVE photographed by Peter Gabriel 6 WWD BEAUTY INC EDITOR’S LETTER EDWARD NARDOZA EDITOR IN CHIEF, W WD PETE BORN EXECUTIVE EDITOR, BEAUTY JENNY B. FINE EDITOR Creation Nation JENNIFER WEIL EUROPEAN EDITOR JULIE NAUGHTON SENIOR PRESTIGE MARKET BEAUTY EDITOR hen we were generating ideas for this, the first issue of WWD MOLLY PRIOR BEAUTY FINANCIAL EDITOR FAYE BROOKMAN CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Beauty Inc devoted to creativity, I knew there could be only one BELISA SILVA BEAUTY MARKET EDITOR, MASS cover subject: Pat McGrath, the superstar makeup artist who is as JAYME CYK EDITORIAL ASSISTANT KATIE KRETSCHMER COPY EDITOR influential as she is inventive. ART McGrath, as is her way, didn’t immediately say yes. Later, I found BARBARA SULLIVAN ART DIRECTOR out over the course of our interviews that it took her roughly the same amount W CONTRIBUTORS of time to consider director David Fincher’s offer to create the look for Rooney SAMANTHA CONTI AND NINA JONES (London), MILES SOCHA (Paris), CYNTHIA MARTENS (Milan), MARCY MEDINA AND RACHEL BROWN (Los Angeles), Mara’s character in the film, The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo. As I learned, MELISSA DRIER AND SUSAN STONE (Berlin), AMANDA KAISER (Tokyo) McGrath is an absolute perfectionist who won’t take on any project—a shoot, a PHOTO show, an interview, a film—unless she’s absolutely sure that she can deliver what’s CARRIE PROVENZANO PHOTO EDITOR LEXIE MORELAND ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR expected to her very exacting standards. Happily, she agreed to be profiled, and JENNA GREENE ASSISTANT PHOTO EDITOR ERIN FITZGERALD STUDIO MANAGER gave WWD Beauty Inc unprecedented access to her magically creative world for EILEEN TSUJI PHOTO COORDINATOR our story, “In Living Color” on page 20. ROBERT COHEN PHOTO FACILITATOR JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, KYLE ERICKSEN, McGrath creates the makeup looks for some of the best-known designers on the THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOGRAPHERS planet—Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton and on and on. Whereas CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS once the work of such designers hardly intersected with hers, more and more RUVEN AFANADOR, KENJI AOKI, DAN BORRIS, NIGEL DICKSON, BEN HASSETT, HENRY LEUTWYLER, MARK HANAUER, MICHAEL NAGLE, fashion designers are entering the world of color cosmetics with launches of their JEFF RIEDEL, PHILIPPE SALOMON, DAVID LEWIS TAYLOR, YASU+JUNKO own. The terrain for such brands is treacherous, littered with unsuccessful attempts from names like Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Diane von Furstenberg. Come BEAUTY INC ADVERTISING PAUL JOWDY VICE PRESIDENT, GROUP PUBLISHER August, however, giants like Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors will test the water with PAMELA FIRESTONE ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER JENNIFER MARDER ADVERTISING DIRECTOR makeup, while others including Gucci and Christian Louboutin reportedly have ELLIE GHADIMI ADVERTISING DIRECTOR, BEAUTY lines in the works.