GENERATION

IN ASSOCIATION WITH WELCOME

Shaping the future of fashion retailing

Since we launched the Drapers Next merchandisers, retailers and accountants p3 30 under 30 Generation concept early in 2010, it has making their mark on the sector. The industry’s 30 under 30 rising stars are taken on a life of its own. We have expanded These young talents now need to be making waves across the fashion sector the size of both the event, doubling the nurtured and coached through to the next p28 number of delegates, and this supplement stages of their careers. These are the very It Could Be You to make sure we celebrate even more of the people that will help us through the economic With fewer jobs available, graduates need young talent that the fashion industry recovery and back into growth, with their determination and talent to stand out continues to attract. bank of innovative new ideas that will shape p30 Over 44 pages, Drapers has hunted down the future of fashion retailing. Baby Boardroom the names you need to know as future leaders On March 31, we welcome the second intake Meet some of the youngest boardroom stars making a big impact on the industry of the industry, starting with our 30 under 30 of Next Generation stars to our exclusive on p3. seminar. See p36 for details on how p33 It’s not only designers grabbing the to be a part of our free one-day seminar. Fashion’s Got Talent Tips from the top on how to identify spotlight either – there are plenty of buyers, Jessica Brown Editor and nurture young members of staff

p37 Take Off Overseas Emerging markets are providing more opportunities for UK professionals abroad Young talent gives p43 Going It Alone What’s it like to leave the safety of a us confidence in 2011 full-time job to set up your own business? Success Appointments is delighted to be We will soon see, as the VAT increase, rising sponsoring Drapers Next Generation for the raw material costs and cuts take effect. IN ASSOCIATION WITH second year. We gained a huge amount from The modern elements of our industry such last year’s programme. The motivation and as ecommerce, product design and sourcing enthusiasm of the young attendees was an call for that youthful eye and vision. inspiration, and gave us confidence in the However, the industry still lacks “on the job” future of our industry. training schemes for young talent. These can PARTNERS It is interesting to note the change in the be set up at little cost and the benefits always economic climate compared with this time outweigh the commitment needed to last year. We have seen a marked increase establish them. We call on employers to in confidence and investment during 2010. run in-house training and development The fact that employers are now seeking programmes wherever practical. It will bring both youth, and a mix of experience in their untold benefits to your own businesses, the people, reflects the improvement in the industry, and the economy. business climate. The question remains as to Stephen Selby Managing director, how permanent this will be as we enter 2011. Success Appointments

EDITOR Jessica Brown COMMISSIONING EDITOR Ana Santi GROUP PRODUCTION EDITOR Steve Draper SUPPLEMENTS PRODUCTION EDITOR Tracey Gardner GROUP ART DIRECTOR Alison Fisher PRODUCTION MANAGER Jo Lambert HEAD OF RECRUITMENT AND CLASSIFIED SALES Sonia Kho ASSISTANT SALES MANAGER Julia Jones CONTRIBUTORS Åse Anderson, Sarah Butler, Manfreda Cavazza, Josephine Collins, Marino Donati

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For the second year running, Drapers unveils the 30 buyers, designers, merchandisers and entrepreneurs under the age of 30 who are tipped to become the fashion industry’s movers and shakers of the future

Words Josephine Collins 30 UNDER 30

Trade secrets: Allender is fascinated by the bespoke and prototype bag process

whizz. During the apprenticeship, he worked alongside the existing team of craftsmen, qualifying with both NVQ and City & Guilds certificates. “There is a lot of satisfaction working with the leather and seeing it move from being a full skin to it coming off the end of line,” Allender says. He is Mitch Allender fascinated by the bespoke and proto- Cutter, Mulberry, aged 20 type bag process and would eventually like to get involved with those. Still just 20 years old, Mitch Allender is Mulberry supply director Ian Scott already a key member of luxury acccesso- says: “Investing in the skills of luxury ries brand Mulberry’s production team at craftsmanship is an important strategy Rookery in Somerset – and one of the for Mulberry and our apprenticeship first graduates of the brand’s apprentice- scheme has been a fantastic success. I ship scheme, which was set up in 2008 in have no doubt that not only is it conjunction with sector skills council securing the skills required for our long- Skillfast UK and Bridgwater College. term success, but I am convinced that Mulberry is keen to keep the skills the future managers of our UK factory needed for handbag production local, will be today’s apprentices.” and Allender, who joined the scheme It certainly looks like the investment straight from college, has gained all the in apprenticeships is paying off for technical skills he needs to be a cutting Allender, as well as for Mulberry.

Rachael Batt Buyer, House of Fraser, aged 29 Rachael’s Since her teenage years, Rachael Batt says she ploughed all her energy into ability to getting into buying. During her English create literature degree, she worked on the shopfloor at Next, rising to a store winners is Dan Cairrao management role, followed by full-time a great skill Head of menswear merchandising, shopfloor work at Monsoon, during All Saints, aged 30 which time she also undertook a buying and success and merchandising course at the story Dan Cairrao joined premium young London College of Fashion. Michelle Hawes, director of fashion chain All Saints in spring 2010 “It was a challenge to get into the busi- buying for womenswear, seeking out a fast-paced environment in ness without a specific degree,” Batt says, House of Fraser which to beef up his experience in but her perseverance, and specialist menswear merchandising. training, paid off when she got a job at Following a business studies degree Debenhams as trainee assistant buyer, at Portsmouth University, Cairrao eventually rising to assistant buyer. joined Bhs, where he spent five years in Batt joined House of Fraser three menswear. John Lewis then followed. years ago, also as assistant buyer. She “I like developing people, pushing the became junior buyer after a year, and business forward and doing the best I can was promoted to buyer six months later. every day,” he says. “All Saints is giving me Today, she works largely on the faster-paced environment that will own-brand collections, including Own brand: Batt works on Pied a Terre eventually open up more avenues.” Pied a Terre. Mary Anderson-Ford, director of retail Michelle Hawes, director of buying Her ability to create winners is a great at recruitment specialist Whitepeak, for womenswear at House of Fraser, skill and success story. She is totally says: “Dan’s next step will be as director says: “Rachael is a stylish professional reliable and is never fazed by the new of merchandising in the next few years, buyer with a natural flair for product. challenges she is given.” and I’m confident he won’t stop there.”

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during his school days, and then Reece Crisp at Fluke in Sutton. Assistant buyer contemporary “I loved my school work menswear brands, Mr Porter, experience – it was an inspi- Helen is a aged 24 ration to me. I then went on to take a degree in perfect Just three months into his new fashion management at example of role at Net-a-Porter’s soon-to- London College of launch luxury menswear site Fashion,” he says. someone who Helen Gibbs Mr Porter, Reece Crisp is “I ask for opportunities will build a Ugandan Foundation project manager, among the coterie of bright to get involved in TJX Europe, aged 30 young buyers and merchan- different functions in the brilliant disers taking the business business. I always want to retail career Flexible, able to think on her feet, resil- forward. contribute outside of my Paul Sweetenham, group ient and prepared to work through Crisp joined Mr Porter remit.” president, TJX Europe change – Helen Gibbs is the kind of from etail giant Asos, where Crisp admits to being young high-flyer that retailers love. he was also assistant buyer very ambitious. “I want to be Gibbs joined TJX Europe, owner of on premium brands, having a buying director at some TK Maxx, four years ago on its graduate started his full-time buying point. I love buying and know scheme, following a microbiology career as an allocator at House that I will progress.” MPhil and a stint at young fashion indie of Fraser. Clockwork Orange in Belfast. But the fashion bug caught Male order: Yves Saint Laurent Gibbs’ potential was recognised Crisp much earlier – he worked (left) is among the brands set for when she won an internal fast-track at indie White House in Harlow Mr Porter programme called TJXcellence to work on a range of cross-functional projects. This January, Gibbs is spearheading the Ugandan Foundation Project for the business, a pan-European project to appetite when she came into contact raise money to help educate under-priv- with the buyers at designer mini-chain ileged children in Uganda. She’ll be Flannels, where she worked after sourcing product that is scalable and graduating in psychology from Liver- commercially viable for the stores. pool University. “Every time I’ve had a challenge, I’ve Arriving in London, aged 22, she really gone for it. I want to go far in TK initially worked in Disney’s fashion and my ambition is to develop through department. Before her time at Browns, buying fashion to a senior level.” Jemma Dyas which she describes as “amazing”, she TJX Europe group president Paul Fashion scout, Asos Marketplace, was an assistant buyer at Selfridges on Sweetenham says: “Helen is intelligent aged 30 designer and bridge-designer brands. and curious by nature and uses these “It was difficult to even get an inter- attributes in analytical and pragmatic Less than six months as a fashion scout view as a buyer’s admin because I ways. It is this combination of skills that for Asos Marketplace, a sales platform hadn’t studied fashion, but I was deter- we think makes her a great retail talent.” for small businesses, and Jemma Dyas mined to move into fashion and didn’t has already been marked out as a high rest until I got there. I couldn’t believe it flyer. She looks for brands, designers, when I was taken on at Selfridges and I multi-brand stores and vintage collec- haven’t looked back since,” she says. tions that are “special”, then, “I help and support them, along with our business development manager, to open and run a boutique on Marketplace”. In July, while still working as a buyer for London super indie Browns Focus, Dyas was named as one of the emerging talents in a list of the hottest 100 people in the creative industries, compiled by private members’ club The Hospital and The Independent newspaper. Dyas already has eight years of buying on her CV, having whetted her Something special: Asos Marketplace Into Africa: Gibbs (centre) in Uganda »

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« Fresh from winning the Dutch Marie Claire Prix de la Mode Award for Best Fashion Entrepreneur 2010, Gulsen Global star: says she developed her business by Gulsen’s starting small. “The money I earned SuperTrash in the first year I invested in buying brand has fabrics, renting a small showroom and stockists in sampling my collection. I started very 24 countries Olcay Gulsen small and invested every penny back Owner, SuperTrash, aged 30 into the company.” Since 2009, she has opened seven Amsterdam-based Olcay Gulsen was standalone SuperTrash stores in obsessed with fashion as a child – cutting Holland, and launched the brand in 24 up her mother’s clothes to create her countries – including the UK, where own versions of Madonna’s Jean Paul stockists include Selfridges, Asos and Gaultier corsets. My-Wardrobe. So it is no surprise that she started her own business, aged 21. Initially, it was a small recruitment firm for the fashion industry, but within a year she had trans- formed it into a fashion distributor. “You can do anything as long as you I started very small really want it,” she says. And by 2004, she and invested every was designing the SuperTrash collection, penny back into the for which she had responsibility for Europe and Asia distribution. Gulsen company bought the SuperTrash brand in 2009. Olcay Gulsen, owner, SuperTrash

Tom has successfully worked for two of the Tom Heyes best online Merchandiser, Net-a-Porter, aged 29

retailers in With roles at two major etailers already the UK under his belt, merchandiser Tom Industry insider Heyes has the makings of a great career in fashion etail. Heyes joined Net-a-Porter in 2009 from Asos, having previously worked at Topshop, the business he joined after a degree in management studies at Leeds University. He chose merchandising Net worker: Heyes joined Net-a-Porter in 2009, where he says ideas are welcomed after seeing a job spec on a website while looking for fashion jobs. “[The “Traditional fashion retailers have always opportunities for introducing spec] talked about being numerate, and established processes,” Heyes says. “But new ideas to the business.” I had always been that way inclined, so with fashion etailing there is not a long One industry insider says: “Tom has when a role came up, I went for it.” history of doing things in a particular climbed up the ranks of the retailers Now he finds working on etailing is way – so it is possible to be more crea- and etailers he has worked for, more entrepreneurial than in tradi- tive as a merchandiser. You are not including successfully working for two tional bricks-and-mortar retail. restricted by floor space, and there are of the best online retailers in the UK.” »

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« “I make small collections. There are no basics, and while the prices are premium, they are not too expensive,” she explains. “I am lucky in terms of the Asos collaboration, but also in that my collections were already selling before I was noticed by the press.” Mathew Dixon, director of recruit- Sophie Hulme ment firm Hudson Walker, says: “Sophie Designer, aged 26 is a composed individual and focused on the goals of her business. She is Sophie Hulme graduated from King- very professional in her business ston University in 2007, yet she is dealings and deliveries. Her brand is already a veteran of London Fashion already profitable and she possesses Week’s static exhibition, selling her first that very rare mix of creative passion collection to Selfridges in autumn 08. combined with a sharp business brain. Now into her seventh collection, Hulme Her brand is on the cusp of rapid has some 30 accounts internationally growth and will soon be picked up by and will be stocked by London’s Dover more of the world’s prestigious depart- Street Market for spring 11. ment stores.” How has she done it? With some And next on the agenda for Hulme money borrowed from her family are more high-profile collaborations – and strict rules about producing to she is already working with watch order only, by insisting on deposits brand Casio on a watch and with sports- with all orders, shunning the expense wear giant Nike – as well as continuing of a catwalk, and signing a shrewd to work on her own label to gain collaboration with Asos in autumn 09. more recognition. Growing: Hulme’s label has 30 accounts

stake this year. As a result, he plans store openings and continued expansion of the brand’s wholesale base. Lions Rampant has also acquired a cache of celebrity fans – from pop star Pixie Lott and actress Amanda Holden to rugby players Lewis Moody and Geordan Murphy. Richard Hurtley Joules managing director Tom Joule Owner, Lions Rampant, aged 25 says: “Richard heads up a great team of individuals who all live their Richard Hurtley is the type of young core customer’s lifestyle and the entrepreneur you read about in the sporting endeavours that are true to the newspapers – he started producing and brand’s roots.” selling fashion-inspired rugby socks to Hurtley says: “People said I was stupid his sporty friends while a student at to start a business in 2008, and especially Exeter University. Indeed, he has already stupid to start it in fashion. But I’m been named as Rising Entrepreneur of immensely proud of the numbers of the Future by The Spectator magazine. pairs of socks we managed to sell – and In 2008, post-university, his business, at £18 a pair they are not cheap. People Lions Rampant, evolved into an etailer, were writing me off – but that just gave focused on selling sports-heritage casu- me the spur to carry on.” alwear, including rugby and polo shirts, And carry on he has. Lions Rampant trousers and T-shirts. will open its first store in March in Today, Lions Rampant has a 10-strong southwest England, is relaunching team at its Leicester headquarters, and its website with a new look, and is – crucially – financial backing from life- looking to exhibit at Berlin trade show style brand Joules after Hurtley sold a Result: Lions Rampant focuses on sports-heritage casualwear Bread & Butter later in the year. »

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«

Deanna Iannello Kate Inston Buyer, New Look, aged 30 Head of retail, Sarah Coggles in York, aged 25 Described by New Look design director Barbara Horspool as an inspired buyer “I’m a bit like an octopus,” says Sarah with great fashion sense, Deanna Coggles’ head of retail Kate Inston. Iannello already has a CV that many “I have arms for buying, for menswear buyers would crave. and womenswear, for numerical At New Look, which she joined merchandising, for sales analysis for in November 2009, she works on our online and store operations. I Limited Edition, the fast-fashion manage the visual merchandising team chain’s part-owned brand Idol, and Kate’s main and do the schemes for our windows, its Gold by Giles collection. plus the managers of the stores feed Iannello previously worked at strengths are back to me.” Topshop, where she bought the Kate that she has a That is quite a job, but one that has Moss for Topshop collection, as well offered Inston a fantastic opportunity to as buying dresses, swimwear and real mixture learn the business fast. hosiery over the years. of talents She joined premium She worked her way “up Golden touch: New Mark Bage, owner, indie Sarah Coggles through the ranks of blouses Look’s part-owned Sarah Coggles seven years ago – and skirts”, having joined Topshop brand, Idol working in its Paul in 2001 after arriving in the UK (above), and Gold Smith franchise – from Australia. by Giles (below) while studying politics, While buying the Kate Moss economics and soci- collection was undoubtedly a ology at York University, moving to a high point, Iannello says of full-time role when she graduated. The New Look: “Working on its more opportunity to move up the ladder came premium brands gives me an after Adam Jagger – one of last year’s 30 opportunity to work with the under 30 stars – left Sarah Coggles to press team and the trend team, take up a buying role at etailer Asos. so I am developing [across “I’d wanted to work in fashion since different disciplines with the I was young, but didn’t know what business].” direction to take, so Coggles has meant And her work is not going so much to me in that it has unrecognised. Horspool says taught me so much. I’m still of her: “Deanna joined a learning and I want to keep well-established buying team pushing myself forward, and with a real interest, determina- to become as knowledgeable tion and degree of patience to as possible.” understand the New Look Sarah Coggles owner customer. Her areas are multi- Mark Bage says even product, complex and risky, he has been surprised by but she has always taken what Inston has already every challenge in her stride, always achieved. “Kate’s main acting with confidence and strengths are that she has a enthusiasm.” real mixture of talents – Horspool continues: “She encourages merchandising, buying, and her team, is inclusive, and is a good managing people – and for listener but has positive, confident and an indie those multitasking clear views of her own that she won’t Climbing the ladder: Inston joined skills are crucial in a head hesitate to express.” Sarah Coggles seven years ago of retail.” »

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with very tactile textures, as well as « English rose: the Dickins attention to detail.” & Jones label, designed Jackson joined House of Fraser by Gemma Jackson, from Debenhams where she started has a quintessentially her fashion career after graduating British feel from Nottingham Trent University in 2004. Her first role was as a design assistant, but she quickly progressed Gemma Jackson by moving departments, rising to Designer, House of Fraser, aged 29 designer for Collection, Debenhams’ formalwear brand. World travel, developing a collection “My ambition when I was younger from scratch, successful brands – life for was to be a fashion designer. Having House of Fraser designer Gemma achieved this, I want to further improve Jackson is good. Jackson joined the my skills and experience and continue department store chain as designer in to challenge myself,” she says. February 2010, and works on house Marie Jones, House of Fraser director brands Dickins & Jones and Episode. of design, womenswear and accessories, She says: “My focus is on using says: “Gemma’s mature, confident and beautiful fabrics and yarns to create a professional approach to her role often more modern silhouette for Episode. belies the fact that she is not yet 30. This For spring 11, we’ve given it a new year she has taken in her stride devel- contemporary direction and are oping and designing for two brands, moving it on even further for autumn while still finding time to nurture and 11. The new Dickins & Jones label develop new talent within the business. encapsulates a quintessentially British Gemma will make an excellent head of feel, with the focus on colour and print, design in the not too distant future.”

some 40% of Primark’s menswear buy in the UK. Big spender: His big project at the moment is Kinnill oversees 40% of Primark’s upping the fashion content on Prima- menswear buy rk’s menswear. “Our core menswear in the UK customers are key, but we are growing young fashion and our recent results show we are driving fashion home,” Oliver Kinnill Kinnill says. Senior buyer, menswear, He cites its collaboration with artist Primark, aged 28 Ben Allen as one of the projects ramping up Primark’s fashion credi- Nightclub management may not seem bility. “It isn’t huge,” he says, “but we an obvious route into fashion buying, wanted to do something that was but that is how Olly Kinnill started his fashion-led and exciting.” working life after school. Without hesitation, Kinnill cites In 2002, however, he decided a increasing market share on denim change was in order, so he started on as his major achievement, but so is a management trainee scheme at developing people in his team Primark in Reading. When a trainee and developing relationships with buying job came up he applied, and no suppliers. one was more surprised than himself His dynamism is plain to see. when he was taken on. One retail executive says of him: “Olly Six years later and he has fashion is passionate about the industry, “running through his veins” according not just from the buying side but to one industry insider. He is thought to from visual merchandising, marketing, be the youngest senior buyer in the customer satisfaction and the store Primark business – and now oversees experience.” »

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Catwalk star: Katrantzou’s digital prints stood out at spring 11’s London Fashion Week

«

2010 was the year Mary Katrantzou made the industry sit Mary Katrantzou up and take notice Designer, aged 27 Mathew Dixon, director, Hudson Walker

Mary Katrantzou was undoubtedly one Harvey Nichols in the UK, plus Colette in of the stars of London Fashion Week last Paris and 10 Corso Como in Milan. She September, with her clever trompe l’oeil has also collaborated with Topshop. interiors-themed digital prints and sassy “It has been important to me that my shapes. In November, she was named the collections were commercial from the winner of 2010’s Swiss Textiles Award in start,” she says. “I like my collections Zurich – a major international accolade. noticed by buyers as well as the press.” Greek by birth, Katrantzou was a US “2010 was the year Mary Katrantzou architecture student who came to finish made the industry sit up and take her studies in London, where she was notice,” Mathew Dixon, director of distracted by textile design. She has recruitment firm Hudson Walker, says. been a British Fashion Council NewGen “There is a wonderful theatrical feel to recipient for four seasons since autumn her dresses. You have to really look at 09. She has 70 accounts worldwide the design to appreciate the complexi- including Joseph, Browns, Matches and ties in the work.”

Lingerie is so different from womenswear, Helen Meese but I love it Merchandiser, La Senza, aged 29 Helen Meese, merchandiser, La Senza Absolute focus on her goals character- ises Helen Meese, who joined lingerie chain La Senza in November 2010 as merchandiser. Having already worked at Marks Finer details: Meese joined La Senza & Spencer, including in its lingerie (above and left) in November 2010, department as a merchandiser, Meese and enjoys the complexity of lingerie has been part of a £50m lingerie business at M&S. training in buying and merchandising own brands including Autograph. She knew she wanted to work in at the London College of Fashion. “Lingerie is so different from fashion as a teenager, but understood Meese began her career at Arcadia, womenswear because it is so size- that buying was competitive. As a result, working as a merchandising admin complex, the lead times are incredible, she decided to study economics at assistant for Dorothy Perkins across and you have to deal with matching university to give herself a head start. lingerie, knitwear and formal and sets. But I love it,” she says. Meese followed that with a stint on casual trousers. She then spent five And her ultimate goal? Simple, to the shopfloor at Next, at the same years at M&S, achieving assistant be head of merchandising for a blue time as taking specialist postgraduate merchandiser level and working on chip company. »

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« Craig Moody Store manager, Slaters, Cheltenham, I got more aged 28 management An unshakeable enthusiasm for mens- experience wear retailing and an endless commit- ment to the business has taken Craig Katherine Moore and learnt Moody from sales assistant on the Designer, More Stories, aged 29 how to deal shopfloor to one of the youngest store managers that Slaters Menswear It’s not every new graduate who turns with people has appointed. down a job with H&M, but Katherine in the Moody joined the 24-store business Moore did just that following her gradu- aged just 19 in Manchester, moving on ation at Kingston University. After a business who to Chester and then to the retailer’s year working with designer Mishiko were older largest store in Liverpool. By the time Koshino she thought it would be a good of constructing a collection of my own as he moved to the Basingstoke store in idea after all to join the Swedish fast- a 25-year old was amazing,” she says. than me autumn 2006 he was assistant manager, fashion chain – and so impressed was More than five years on and Moore Craig Moody, store rewarded for his unrelenting passion

H&M with Moore, that the retailer gave no longer designs for Rules by Mary – manager, Slaters for his job and an absolute focus on her another chance. she is back in the UK designing for customer service, a key tenet of the Designing at H&M led to her being Swedish kidswear brand More Stories, Slaters proposition. headhunted by Swedish distributor which is owned by Moore and Swedish “At Basingstoke, I got more manage- MnO, where Moore created a kidswear agency Things We Like. The ment experience and learnt how to deal womenswear brand, Rules By Mary. brand is currently in talks with a UK with people in the business who were Since launching in 2006, it has built up wholesale distributor. older than me,” he says. more than 200 accounts in Sweden and Sophie Bubb, manager for design and After three years, another promotion is sold across nine countries. production at recruiter Michael Page, came – Moody was made store manager “I learnt so much at H&M about the says: “Katherine built a career first with in Cheltenham in October 2009. He says commercial world and how to structure H&M, then as head of design for a new he “jumped at the chance”. a collection,” Moore says. But when the concept that grew into a very successful Moody’s ambition is to “build this call came from MnO to join brand in just four years. Part of store up”, he says. “Cheltenham is my the launch of a new Katherine’s success stems from project and I want to do it properly.” project, she couldn’t her ability to take a fresh, This is one store manager who puts say no. experimental his all into the business, and it is paying “The possibility approach to off for him and for Slaters. design.”

Latest chapter: the More Stories range Commitment: Moody is one of the youngest store managers at Slaters »

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« “I’ve been working since I was 17, so although I’m still young, I have many years of experience,” she says. Although she did not study at university, Nellist is a graduate of York premium indie Sarah Coggles, where she worked before taking up a store manager posi- tion at French Connection in the city. Kate Nellist After two years there, she left York to Women’s wholesale sales manager take up her first position at a brand with UK and Republic of Ireland, Danish premium brand Day Birger et Polo Jeans, aged 27 Mikkelsen before joining Diesel. “I loved Diesel, but being offered a Kate Nellist joined Polo Jeans in job at a brand with the prestige of Ralph mid-2010 after two-and-a-half years Lauren was too much to resist,” she with denim brand Diesel, taking says. “I love meeting the people, and Variety of life: Potter works across six brands at Bestseller UK on the massive role of women’s seeing how different people run wholesale manager for the UK and their businesses in such different ways, Republic of Ireland. and how they buy so differently. Nellist puts her progress down to the And then there is the added bonus that broad experience she gained over many I love clothes.” I’ve got quite years on both the retail and supply sides It shouldn’t be too long before Nellist of the fashion business. makes it to sales director level. a commercial head on my shoulders, Emily Potter manager and before that was website and seeing Head of visual merchandising, manager at Dorothy Perkins. Bestseller UK, aged 23 And the future? Olie says she is stud- the return ying for the MSc “to help shape ecom- is just as Is it possible for a 23-year-old to be a merce professionals to be the chief exec- UK-wide head of visual merchandising? utives of tomorrow”. She is paying for exciting as In Emily Potter’s case it is. And she’s the course herself, with House of Fraser seeing a already been at Bestseller UK since offering support by giving Olie addi- mid-2009 where she works across six Becky Olie tional holiday to attend the lectures. well-styled brands – Jack & Jones, Vero Moda, Name Head of online selling, Robin Terrell, executive director mannequin It, Selected Homme, Only and Vila. House of Fraser, aged 29 multichannel and international at Emily Potter, head of Potter got her first break at premium House of Fraser, says: “Becky is visual merchandising, indie Sarah Coggles in York where she Passionate and enthusiastic about every- constantly looking for ways to drive the Bestseller UK worked part time as a 15-year-old. She thing she does, Becky Olie takes her role customer experience forward and she then worked full-time at Marks & of driving the online customer experi- has been instrumental in the huge Spencer as a visual merchandiser, also in ence very seriously – she is studying for growth House of Fraser is experiencing York, for two years before moving to an MSc in internet retailing at the same online. She is also achieving exceptional Jack & Jones, followed by a role at time as holding down her job. results in her MSc, providing further Diesel, before moving back to Bestseller, Her role covers the tone of voice, evidence of her potential to be a busi- which operates the Jack & Jones chain. messaging, photography and design of ness leader of the future.” Potter is recruiting a team of 10 the House of Fraser website as well as people to handle all the brands’ expan- the optimisation of the customer sions for the spring 11 season. She journey and the strategic development currently manages two people. of the website. She says: “I need to ensure She says of her role: “Bestseller trusts we are supporting the requirements of Becky has been my judgement and gives me free rein. the main business alongside the curation I have a great mix of being on the of the online experience and engage- instrumental in road, having a hands-on job and ment we have with our customers.” the huge growth getting involved with the whole team Olie joined House of Fraser two years House of Fraser is for store openings. It’s a great feeling. ago as customer experience manager But I’ve got quite a commercial head and was promoted to her current role a experiencing online on my shoulders, and seeing the year later. Before this, she worked at Robin Terrell, executive director multichannel return is just as exciting as seeing a Marks & Spencer as website content and international, House of Fraser well-styled mannequin.” »

Drapers Next Generation 19 30 UNDER 30

Team player: Quenby works on the H! by Henry Holland and J by Jasper Conran (right) collections at « Debenhams She has recently added colour fore- casting and planning to her design role, – an additional responsibility that Debenhams has trained her to do. “University is all about creativity and work is about commerciality. Debenhams helps you to make that Siobhan Quenby transition with lots of training from how Print designer, Debenhams, aged 25 to behave when with suppliers, to how to describe colour professionally. It’s Print designers are often the unsung setting me up for being in the industry, heroes of design teams, but not prize- and for my ambition to eventually winning Siobhan Quenby, who become a design director,” she says. joined department store chain Debenhams womenswear design Debenhams in 2009 on graduating director Karen Peacock says: “Siobhan from Leeds College of Art and Design. has shown an amazing talent in While at college she scooped a clutch terms of her design work. Her hand- of textile prizes as well as achieving writing is very inspirational; beautiful the highest degree grade in her hand-drawn illustrative style with university year. the ability to adapt her technique Working on Designers at Debenhams depending on the brand she is programmes with Henry Holland designing for. and Jasper Conran, Quenby has “She is often the last one to leave the already created a number of collection office and is always eager to do the best best-sellers. She even used one print she can and has good interpersonal and from her graduate show successfully. team skills.”

Trafford Centre store, rising from sales adviser to assistant manager. In 2007, he joined Vivienne West- wood’s northern franchisee Hervia, initially working on stock allocation, moving into merchandising and finally into buying. “I worked at Hervia during a period of huge growth when the John Reid business was outperforming a growing Owner, Garment Quarter, market. I think it was a real achievement Bristol, aged 27 to be part of that.” Reid wants to see just such growth It wasn’t the chocolate in his parents’ for Garment Quarter. “I am ambitious Thorntons chocolate franchise that and don’t want to sit on a one-store attracted John Reid to retailing, but the business,” he says. budgeting and planning. Reid is also a columnist for Drapers. In October, at just 27, Reid opened Garment Quarter in Bristol, a contempo- rary premium fashion indie and transac- tional website with brands including Vivienne Westwood Red and Gold I worked at Hervia Labels, Comme des Garçons, Uncondi- tional, Alexander McQueen, Markus during a period of Lupfer, Melissa and A Child of the Jago. huge growth. It was Reid cut his teeth on the shopfloor of a real achievement All Saints in Newcastle, before progressing to the premium young to be part of that Premium platform: Garment Quarter stocks a mix of contemporary fashion chain’s concession in Selfridges’ John Reid, owner, Garment Quarter menswear and womenswear brands, as well as footwear »

20 Drapers Next Generation 30 UNDER 30

« manager, gaining promotion to creative manager late in 2008. She now has a team of 19 people working with her. Working on all the in-store concepts and installations, as well as on three of 214’s four massive windows, Roberts says: “I’ve literally got the best job in the Sian Roberts world. We’re constantly reinventing the Creative manager, Topshop Oxford look of the store, from changing 200 to Circus, aged 30 300 mannequins and busts every week, to the major seasonal changes, plus Does Sian Roberts have the dream job? Fashion Weeks, Christmas and special She certainly believes she does as crea- installations – it’s continuous.” tive manager of the Topshop flagship at And her favourite installation? 214 Oxford Street and at the Topshop Roberts recalls the “blood, sweat and concession in nearby Selfridges. tears” of the store relaunch in 2009, Roberts started her career in in-store before carefully choosing a concept visual merchandising in 2001 at Oasis that included a classic car as the centre- on London’s Regent Street. After travel- piece. “It was very testing to do. I ling the world, she moved away from sourced the car, but then we had to strip visual merchandising to take on a store out the engine to make it lighter, and Classic concept: Roberts’ management role at Karen Millen in get it through the store to the ground favourite installation Covent Garden. She then returned to floor location before adding the instal- included a vintage car visual merchandising by joining the lation of mannequins.” as the centrepiece for Topshop creative team seven years ago. Roberts’ ambitions are firmly set Topshop Oxford Circus Her creative team roles have within Topshop, where she has her eye included supervisor and assistant on the creative director’s role.

fashion was simply not available,” says Sauvage of his styling days. “Taking matters into my own hands One can by designing bespoke suits for these gentleman, their popularity chase a dream grew faster than the pieces could of creativity actually be made [highlighting that there was a gap and demand in when having Adrien Sauvage the market]. Hence, the A Sauvage the support Menswear designer, aged 27 launch in 2010.” With no formal fashion training, the of a strong Adrien Sauvage’s A Sauvage label is first collection for autumn 10 was team and a more than a menswear collection – it promoted with a photography and film is just so cool, it hurts. project called This Is Not a Suit, and network that Following a seven-year career as a the spring 11 range was presented as enables it professional basketball player including part of September 2010’s London Adrien Sauvage, designer playing for England, Sauvage’s first Fashion Week. business was Untitled Muse, a styling The filmThis Is Not A Suit was service for men and women, which selected for the Sundance Film Festival started in 2005. – a great accolade. And business is One of his clients, broadcaster doing well too, with stockists George Lamb, supported him in setting including premium mini-chain up his menswear label last year, after Matches and luxury department both had become increasingly frus- store Harrods. trated at not being able to find the type He goes on: “One can chase a dream of styles they wanted. of creativity when having the support “A piece that conveyed a balance Balancing act: Sauvage’s label blends of a strong team and a network that between classic tailoring and modern classic tailoring with current trends enables it.” »

Drapers Next Generation 23 30 UNDER 30

I help to keep the brand alive and fresh at the Ayse Suleyman same time as PR manager, Office, aged 29

maintaining Describing herself as one of the creative its quirky drivers of the business, Office PR manager Ayse Suleyman has a role that image goes beyond simple press releases and Ayse Suleyman, sample lending. PR manager, Office Her seasonal press launches, always in offbeat locations with a strong conceptual basis, are renowned for their creativity. The feedback she gives following press comment is used to shape the footwear chain’s collections. “I have a varied and creative role,” Suleyman says. “Apart from managing the PR function, I am also the editor in chief of our quarterly Office maga- zine [250,000 circulation, half of which is wrapped with consumer title Heat]. I help to keep the brand alive and fresh The man who can: Speight manages at the same time as maintaining its UK menswear sales for Burberry Brit, quirky image.” Burberry London and Burberry Sports Suleyman joined Office in 2006 after working at PR agencies Fuel and Mary Portas’s Yellowdoor. In her first year, « The internship was extended and she increased Office’s press coverage by Niki Speight the rest, as they say, is history. more than 150%, and maintains the UK wholesale manager – menswear, Stints followed at Boss Golf, and later coverage has gone up 95% year-on-year Burberry, aged 26 Boss Green and Boss Orange, with ever since. “Benchmarking against our Speight eventually becoming mens- competitors suggests we are outper- Talk to anyone about Niki Speight and wear sales manager for both labels, forming the market,” she says. you get the same answer – this is a with responsibility also for distribution. It seems her combination of analytics young man who has already carved Indeed, Speight’s seven years with and creativity is working – she joined a a great career in menswear, and Hugo Boss coincided with a massive team of two people as press officer, but who will go far. renaissance of the brand. now manages a team of five. Speight, who joined Burberry in And with the hype around Burberry, spring 2010, manages UK menswear Speight’s future looks bright. sales for Burberry Brit, Burberry London and Burberry Sports – quite a responsibility. And with Burberry’s sub-brands once again buzzing in indies and department stores, Speight is proving his worth for the business. Speight’s seven years Despite his tender years, Speight is no newcomer. He started his fashion life with Hugo Boss working ad hoc at menswear brand coincided with a Duffer of St George, but had the oppor- tunity to move to Hugo Boss for a six- massive renaissance Outperforming: in her first year, Suleyman increased month internship when he was just 19. of the brand Office press coverage by more than 150% »

24 Drapers Next Generation 30 UNDER 30

« and the kind of service that great indies thrive on. While Tweddell grew up in the Yates business, which was renamed from The City Yates to Lewis Yates when it relaunched in October 2008, he left in his early wasn’t me. 20s to try his hand at stockbroking. I could only Tweddell quickly found something Lewis Tweddell lacking. Fashion was in his blood. “The think about Owner, Lewis Yates, Billericay, City wasn’t me. I could only think about fashion aged 26 fashion,” he says. Lewis Tweddell, By this time, Yates had just two owner, Lewis Yates Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, branches remaining, and both were Lewis Tweddell has taken his father’s destined for closure. So he bought the moribund menswear retail business and Billericay store from his father, created turned it into the Best New Business a sumptuous interior, convinced brands winner at the 2010 Drapers Awards. to support the new business – and now Tweddell has focused on an Lewis Yates is all about the future. authoritative mix of brands – 7 For Tweddell says the recognition the All Mankind, Almost Famous, Drapers Award represents is his proudest Duchamp, Holland Esquire, Mulberry achievement so far, and is acknowledge- and True Religion among them – ment that he is “doing something right”.

Making progress: Walters oversees 10 White Stuff retail director Helen East stores and a John Lewis concession Marshall says: “Jo has set White Stuff apart from the rest of the high street in terms of visual merchandising, making Jo has set Maia Walters outfit building simple for the customer. Southwest area manager, East, aged 24 Her future is looking bright, as White White Stuff Stuff continues to expand with 12 apart from In the five years since Maia Walters store openings per year, and plans joined womenswear chain East she has Joanne Twyman to go international.” the rest of progressed from sales adviser to area Visual merchandise manager, Twyman has to be particularly crea- the high sales manager. In her current role, she is White Stuff, aged 28 tive in making the merchandise work. based in Bristol overseeing 10 stores and But she enjoys the challenge: “There’s street a John Lewis concession. With 10 years of visual merchandising nothing I like more than going into a Helen Marshall, retail Walters is inspired by the “brilliant

experience under her belt, Joanne completely empty store and creating an director, White Stuff team” she works with and is motivated Twyman has made her mark in her five- entire brand experience, something that by East customers. But it’s the results she and-a-half years at White Stuff. everyone can enjoy, at the same time as delivers that made her promotions so She progressed from area visual making it easy for people to shop.” easy to justify for East chief executive merchandiser to a senior role and then to Suzi Spink. “Maia has been an innova- manager in May this year, overseeing tive and creative store manager with an visual merchandising at 70 shops and inspirational leadership style. She has managing a 24-strong team. She joined also repeatedly delivered like-for-like the lifestyle chain from JD Sports where sales growth within her branch in Truro she was an in-store visual merchandiser. since joining in January 2006,” she says. It’s Twyman’s enthusiasm as well as Walters explains: “I thrive on chal- her skills that are propelling her forward. lenge and that’s what makes me get up “I enjoy the logic of how people shop in the mornings. I’d eventually like to and what influences and inspires become a head of retail – but that’s a them,” she says. long way off.” The stores are merchandised by Spink concludes: “Maia has an stories and colour rather than category. exciting future ahead and after deliv- She says: “When you see people buying a ering results as an area manager, she will whole outfit, when they have appreci- hopefully quickly progress to regional ated what we do, that’s rewarding.” Visual art: White Stuff’s stores are merchandised by stories and colour business manager and beyond.” »

Drapers Next Generation 27 GETTING ON THE LADDER

loomy headlines about according to the Higher Education demand for smart, confident graduates is high graduate unem- Careers Service Unit (HECSU). This is actually on the rise. ployment and looming the highest level of graduate unemploy- “Much of the doom and gloom has job cuts have made for ment in 17 years. been exaggerated by the press. Retail has grim reading in recent Meanwhile, the backlog of unem- recovered as far as the recession is Gmonths. Landing a dream role in the ployed graduates continues to grow. The concerned. Businesses are just getting on fashion industry has never been easy, but class of 2010 had to compete with gradu- with picking up the pieces,” she says. the recession has made life tougher for ates from the previous year still out of Despite competition for jobs reaching those starting out in their careers. work, fuelling a record average of 70 record levels, there are plenty of oppor- The facts – at first – don’t offer much applicants for every job. tunities for bright, determined individ- encouragement. More than 21,000 But Fiona Abrahams, managing uals, especially in the fashion retail students who graduated in 2009 were director of recruitment consultancy sector. According to HECSU, more than still out of work six months later, Fashion Therapy International, says 5,000 of those who graduated in 2009 It could be you Fewer jobs are available to graduates, but there are still plenty of opportunities for those with talent, determination and the knowledge of how to stand out from the crowd

Words Manfreda Cavazza Illustration Jason Bennion

28 Drapers Next Generation GETTING ON THE LADDER

managed to find work in the fashion, be relevant. While merchandising is textile or retail industries, either in retail slightly less competitive, Miskell warns SALARY SCALE or wholesale. against seeing this as a ‘second best’ [Work career after buying. She adds: “A retailer Average salaries across buying Knowledge is power will spot a mile off the people who failed and merchandising Doing your homework is vital. Many experience] to get a buying job and have plumped for Starting salary graduates will fail to get an interview is the only merchandising as second choice.” because it is clear from their application £16,000 to £19,000 they have not researched the role, the way you Broaden your horizons After two years company and its competitors. can really There is more to fashion than buying and Lee Evans, group recruitment merchandising, says Barfield. Candidates £25,000 manager at fast-fashion chain New Look, understand should consider roles such as finance or After five years says a lack of understanding about the the role you IT, which can be just as interesting. job is the most common mistake he Arcadia hired 300 graduates last year £40,000 comes across. are going for across its chains, which include Topshop, “I get so many people coming in Alex Richardson, resourcing Topman and Dorothy Perkins. The bulk After 10 years

saying they want to be in ‘buying and manager, Harrods joined its buying, merchandising or £70,000+ merchandising’ and I say, so which is it? distribution schemes, but many were *Source: Success Appointments The two roles could not be more also hired on its finance and HR different. One is all about numbers, the programmes. Barfield adds: “We get so other is very creative,” says Evans. many graduates who have got a good business. Alex Richardson, resourcing Sarah Barfield, senior resourcing business or economics degree but who manager at luxury department store officer at Arcadia, even suggests phoning don’t want to work in a bank. Working in Harrods, says this is her number one tip, the company and asking to speak to the finance at Arcadia is far from boring.” no matter what the job is. HR team about the role. She adds: “I Its accountants and analysts help “Anyone can just write out the job would happily spend 10 minutes inform each brand’s strategy and direc- description and say they have those explaining exactly what the job entails.” tion. Other ad hoc graduate roles in skills but that doesn’t mean anything to She also advises going online, where other parts of the business, from logistics me. I want to see that you have done it bloggers give feedback about job inter- to PR, are also worth looking into. already,” she says. views and how companies operate. A common faux pas is expecting to While she admits this can be difficult A pet hate among recruiters is candi- move on too quickly. It can take a couple for people just starting out, she believes dates adopting a scattergun approach of years to become a buyer’s assistant or there are many ways you can prove and applying to hundreds of different merchandiser’s assistant and five or six to you are hungry for the job. Richardson jobs. Barfield says there is nothing more become a buyer or merchandiser. Entry- adds: “You can get internships; you irritating than phoning a candidate level roles in merchandising are often can go outside your working hours and about their application and being asked referred to as distributors or allocators, or shadow people. This is the only way you what role she is calling about. merchandise administration assistants. can really understand the role you are Katy Miskell, graduate consultant at They will be responsible for purchase going for. You don’t just swan into a recruitment consultancy Success orders, filing and chasing suppliers. In buyer’s job. You need to work for it.” Appointments, agrees. She says candi- buying, junior employees are typically dates are often too vague about what known as buyer’s administration assist- The final hurdle they want to do. She adds: “While it is ants and their main responsibility is Having got past the rigorous applica- good to be flexible, retailers want to see getting the right stock to the right stores. tion process, excelling at the interview someone who is focused.” stage is the final hurdle. Abrahams It is therefore crucial to think about Designs on a career says: “Don’t be nervous. I know it is the different roles in the fashion Designers are often dealt with differ- easier said than done, but people who industry. Buyers are typically creative, ently as it is incredibly competitive. Abra- are timid are simply not going to get but they also have to have a strong hams says it is important to have relevant the jobs. You need to show passion commercial awareness. A retail degree is internships. She says: “You have to have a and enthusiasm.” helpful, but not essential. very strong commercial portfolio, beau- Evans believes confidence can help, Within brands, the buying role is tifully presented.” but it is not essential. He recently hired different. Often referred to as product At New Look, for instance, designers a graduate who was desperately shy but developers, their main responsibility is will often spend 18 months doing an clearly passionate about the role and to understand what the retailers want. internship while studying for their wanted the job. “She is now a brilliant These people need to be good at fashion degree. When a vacancy pops up, stock allocator,” says Evans. networking and building relationships. these candidates are more likely to be Just because times are tough does not Merchandisers are more analytical. considered than someone external. mean there is not a job for you out there, They oversee stock allocation and Work experience is essential for somewhere. The trick is learning how to monitor sales. A numerical degree would anyone wanting to get into the fashion stand out from the crowd. l

Drapers Next Generation 29 UP AND COMING

The chief executive Stephanie Phair, aged 32 The Outnet Oxford graduate Stephanie Phair started as a PR at London agency Siren before stints in marketing and communications for designer Issey Miyake and Vogue. Words Sarah Butler Phair then took a merchandising role in Illustration Antony Hare a start-up, online luxury accessories site, Baby Portero.com, setting herself up to lead designer etailer Net-a-Porter’s venture into discount fashion – The Outnet. She says in the start-up environment there are definitely some advantages to youth. “People are enthusiastic to help boardroom because they are not intimidated or feel The industry’s 30 under 30 rising stars are set to make waves over the next that you will take offence,” she says. “If decades, but there are individuals who are not yet 40 that are likely to make you have an open approach others will a bigger impact sooner. Meet some of the youngest boardroom stars provide encouragement and support.” FROM LEFT) STEPHANIE PHAIR, HASH LADHA, ANDREA HICKMAN, KEITH WILKS, HANNAH COFFIN, OLIVER LUCAS, WOODHOUSE (ILLUSTRATION

30 Drapers Next Generation UP AND COMING

Phair suggests that making a lateral younger director makes me appreciate The head of merchandising move or taking a step back can ulti- the opportunity I’ve been given. I’ve Oliver Woodhouse, aged 32 mately help set up a more interesting, also been very fortunate in being Select fulfilling career path. “I think progres- surrounded by very generous mentors.” I think being With more than 11 years of operational sion can sometimes look like a zigzag Coffin cut her teeth at Karen Millen, experience already under his belt at and not a straight line up,” she says. co-founded by All Saints chairman Kevin part of a value chains Peacocks and QS, Oliver At The Outnet, Phair has the benefit of Stanford, before joining All Saints eight youthful Woodhouse is now helping put Select, launching a new business with the years ago. Her ambition is to continue which was bought out of administration weight of a well-respected name, Net-a- working at All Saints producing “exciting team brings in March 2008 by Turkish supplier Cafer Porter, behind her. and relevant” product. fresh ideas Mahiroglu, back on the retail map. He says the advantage of his relative The finance director The buying director and less youth is that he’s not too weighed down Keith Wilks, aged 39 Andrea Hickman, aged 34 design by preconceived ideas. “I think you’re Agent Provocateur Coast coming to the job fairly fresh and you Keith Wilks has gained his fair share of Andrea Hickman is one of the youngest inhibitions can use the knowledge you have gained experience in the past two years, when directors among Aurora Fashions’ six Hannah Coffin, design from managers you’ve had to be the best

he guided womenswear chain Whistles retailers, including Coast, Warehouse and director, All Saints manager you can be. I think you just through the experience of both its bank, Karen Millen. Having studied fashion have to prove that despite your age you Glitnir, and major shareholder, Baugur, design at Manchester Metropolitan have got experience. I’ve been in retail going bust. University, Hickman started at Monsoon for 16 years.” “It was a huge learning curve but it was as a buyers’ assistant, working her way up Woodhouse first started working for exceptionally good experience of crisis to buyer, before joining Coast and being Peacocks in the evenings when he was management,” he says of his time at Whis- promoted to head of buying two years still studying business administration at tles, where he worked before moving to ago and buying director six months later. The University of Wales in Cardiff. His lingerie business Agent Provocateur. Hickman believes her relative youth long-term ambition is to be chief execu- Having graduated in law from Edin- helps her grasp new things such as the tive of a major business. burgh University, Wilks began his career development of the internet. “I always working on corporate strategy at oil firm think about multichannel and look at The head of customer insight Shell before making an unlikely move to special buys for the website. Exclusivity is and customer relationship plus-size chain Evans, owned by Arcadia. massive at Coast and the web is great for management Wilks says he benefited from the support small buys and limited editions. Two Oliver Lucas, aged 33 network within Arcadia, where he spent years ago, that’s not something we New Look 10 years, which has done much to would discuss and now it’s always part As retailers’ relationships with customers promote young executives within its of our conversation.” become increasingly interactive, ranks. Having left to join ex-Topshop managing the ever-more detailed input boss Jane Shepherdson at Whistles, the The group from customers is a key skill. Oliver Lucas team had to adapt to the private equity multichannel director isn’t yet on the board at fast-fashion world in a tricky environment. Hash Ladha, aged 36 chain New Look but it wouldn’t be Agent Provocateur should be a breeze Aurora Fashions surprising to see customer insight direc- in comparison. “We have some very Hash Ladha’s CV is packed, with stints at tors appearing on retail boards in future. exciting plans for the business to expand Evans, Topman, Bhs, Dorothy Perkins, “My job is about listening to the over the next three years,” Wilks says. New Look, Asos and now Aurora Fash- customer through various means such as ions, where he is in charge of leading an focus groups, questionnaires and The design director aggressive integrated multichannel push surveys. I think my age makes me more Hannah Coffin, aged 30 in the UK and overseas, as well as helping appreciative of the world of social media All Saints the group learn more about its shoppers’ and the ability to talk to people who She may be the youngest member of our buying preferences. I learn from embrace that as part of their daily life.” Drapers board, but there’s no denying Despite studying a law degree at The Lucas says he would like a “broader the impact Hannah Coffin has made on University of Wales, Ladha was more people above role” in future that could take him up to the high street in her three years as inspired by his Saturday job at Evans in and below directorship level and, given the respect womenswear design director at All Swansea and wrote to the company he’s got from top management and New Saints. Her quirky, edgy styling has asking for a job at head office. me, and from Look’s history of promoting insiders, it’s helped turn the retailer into one of the “I don’t think age is relevant. I know people on my not unlikely he’ll meet that ambition. hottest retailers around and is being people older than me who have tonnes New Look chief executive Carl liberally copied at all levels of the market. of energy and some younger with less team and McPhail says: “Oliver has the right atti- Coffin says: “I think being part of a energy,” he says. “I don’t know everything outside tude and approach to getting the youthful team brings fresh ideas, less but what I do know I know well. I learn Hash Ladha, group customer to the fore of our decision design inhibitions, innovation and fun from people above and below me, and multichannel director, process, always challenging the business to the collection. The fact that I’m a from people on my team and outside.” Aurora Fashions to do a better job for the customer.” l

Drapers Next Generation 31 CAREER DEVELOPMENT

Fashion’s got

A newtalent starter’s potential may be staring an employer in the face, or may need a little more help to blossom. So how can you tell if they have the talent to become your next head of design? Recruiters and bosses reveal how Words Åse Anderson

f good people are the backbone revamped the denim brand’s appraisal Positive feedback from all levels of the of a good company then it system by using principles he learned at business is also important to pinpoint if follows that if you have the his previous employer, consumer prod- an employee is ripe for promotion, right people working for you, ucts firm Procter & Gamble. according to Mary Anderson-Ford, your business will thrive. “We’ve improved the quality to make director of retail at recruitment firm IEmploying and retaining talented it more of a two-way process. We identify Whitepeak Group. staff may seem an obvious thing to do to a person’s strengths and look at how we “If they can form relationships across drive a company’s performance, but for can build on them,” he says. the business – from nurturing new many businesses, managing this process If someone is considered to be a recruits to working as part of a team and is easier said than done. high performer and wants to develop liaising with their superiors – they are Moira Benigson, managing partner at their career at Diesel, Hewlett will likely to be a real star.” executive search company The MBS sit down with them and their line Both Peter Gerrard, managing Group, says it is vital that fashion busi- manager to discuss short and medium- director of recruitment firm Michael nesses have clear criteria of what they term opportunities. Page Retail, and Anderson-Ford advo- are looking for in new recruits. These “Every manager puts coaching cate the use of personality tests like the criteria should not be static but need to programmes in place for their top talent. Myers-Briggs typology indicator to be adapted to fit with the company’s They are also given projects to develop assess a person’s strengths and how their evolving culture and ambitions. their skills,” he adds. talent is best deployed within the busi- “You have to constantly refer back to ness. Along with individual coaching, [the criteria]. Every six months you these kinds of tests also help bosses should appraise staff to make sure they TALENT SPOTTING extract the skills of those who aren’t so still measure up and to help manage great at demonstrating what they can do. them going forward,” says Benigson. Six steps to identifying and Stephen Selby, managing director of nurturing talent: The real person recruitment firm Success Appointments, 1. Have a clear idea of what you are However, the process has to start with says over the past 10 years there has looking for in new recruits bringing the right people through the been a move away from formal training 2. Work on your interview technique door in the first place. As well as ensuring courses and appraisals. and consider using assessment candidates’ CVs are up to scratch, bosses “All companies used to have a budget centres and/or personality tests need to hone their interview technique for training and developing people but 3. Be an open and approachable to bring out the “real person”. Anderson- now it tends to be more ad hoc within boss Ford says: “There are people who do each department. If [members of staff] 4. Have regular appraisals badly at the interview but are brilliant at are lucky, they have a good manager 5. Set clear and achievable goals for the job and there are others who can blag who can act as a mentor but, if not, they each employee their way through an interview but don’t end up losing the development.” 6. Celebrate achievements publicly have a passion for the job.” Jonny Hewlett, who joined Diesel as within the company Marks & Spencer head of lingerie UK managing director two years ago, has design Soozie Jenkinson says she looks »

Drapers Next Generation 33 CAREER DEVELOPMENT

« for candidates with a great design port- folio, who have researched M&S thor- CLAMBERING UP THE LADDER oughly. “Raw design talent has to be balanced with a realistic perception of Fiona Jackson’s career coached her into the the role, a commercial awareness and at Diesel took a giant new role. strong communication skills.” step forward when she Since the About 170 graduates joined M&S was promoted to the appointment, Jackson through its graduate schemes in 2010, an new position of senior has produced tailored increase of more than 20% on 2009. The key account manager business plans for retailer’s head of recruitment, Kay Jones- in November 2009. each account, which Wolsey, says: “Regular line manager Having joined Diesel in 2002 as sales have increased their appraisals help us pinpoint the needs of manager for kidswear, Jackson is now forward order sales at individual employees and create devel- responsible for some of the brand’s a much faster rate opment programmes that allow high most important UK accounts such as than other accounts. A common potential employees to really flourish. Asos, House of Fraser and John Lewis. “This has led to reason for The key is to create an environment Diesel UK managing director Jonny seven customers where each employee feels valued – Hewlett says Jackson was one of being managed in this leaving is that where their views are listened to and the people he spotted as having way by me, from the three staff don’t their needs recognised,” she adds. development potential when he joined originally assigned to the denim brand. me,” she says. understand Get involved “She has superb analytical and Hewlett says the next where the To bring out the best in their staff, people skills, and understands what step is to increase the managers need to keep their eyes and a customer needs to drive their number of accounts role is going ears to the ground. When times are consumption.” Jackson manages and to Peter Gerrard, managing tough it is easy to get so caught up in the A big believer in key account build a team of key account director, Michael Page Retail day-to-day running of the business that management, Hewlett personally managers that report to her. you fail to spot the potential in your new team members. Benigson says: “You have to inspire know the reason why someone was and has experienced its talent manage- people to get the best out of them. It promoted it stops them feeling resentful ment from both ends of the spectrum. doesn’t just happen.” and gives them something to pitch She looks for new recruits with She urges managers to trust their staff themselves towards.” “energy, self-motivation and courage to by giving them responsibility and John Lewis has a structured develop- counter opinion”. In addition, they getting them involved in the more ment programme in place to nurture should have great people skills that exciting aspects of the business. “Don’t talent across its 30-store portfolio. This allow them to connect both with the play your cards too close to your includes individual coaching and group customer and their colleagues. chest, listen to your staff and share infor- sessions as well as head office based As well as regular one-to-one sessions mation with them.” training and online courses. with their line manager, John Lewis Selby agrees: “Young people are often offers a mentoring scheme for partners very enthusiastic and it is important Making progress who want to progress their career. “[The they feel their ideas are valued.” Graduates who join through its retail mentors] might be people who are on Having an open dialogue with staff is management scheme undergo a six- the same level or a manager who is at also key when it comes to retention. If week induction before becoming section the level that partner is working you have a new recruit who seems managers heading up a team within towards,” says Baxter. destined for the boardroom, the last their department. New recruits can Investing time and money in identi- thing you want is to lose them to a rival. expect to be managing their own depart- fying and nurturing talent is essential I look for new Gerrard says: “The most common ment within 12 to 18 months. when you consider that replacing a RFLs (reasons for leaving) are that staff John Lewis manager of talent and member of staff can cost as much as recruits with see no progression or don’t understand succession Sally-Ann Castle says: “When £10,000. Selby says as well as the cost energy, self- where the role is going.” we identify talent we do that across the involved in recruiting and training a According to Anderson-Ford, a busi- whole business. It is a fully transparent replacement, there is also the loss in motivation ness is more likely to retain talent if it has process where we discuss every partner. productivity due to the time it takes for and courage levels in place that offer a clear career We also have tools in place to help them to be an effective member of staff. path. For example, it is easier for an managers identify future talent, such as Hewlett agrees: “If you can focus to counter assistant merchandiser to set his or her a framework of leadership behaviour your time and effort on growing people opinion sights on becoming a senior assistant that we measure people against.” from within as opposed to bringing in Susan Baxter, fashion merchandiser than a merchandiser. Susan Baxter, fashion operations talent from the outside, it makes for operations manager, She believes businesses should manager at its Kingston upon Thames a much more efficient organisation. It John Lewis publicly celebrate success: “If people store, joined John Lewis as a graduate is 120% worth it.” l

38 Drapers Next Generation Month 00 2010 Drapers 34 COMPETITION Next Generation Academy IN ASSOCIATION WITH If you want to make your mark in fashion, or want expert PARTNERS career advice, then enter our exclusive competition

rapers is running a trading climate as well as answering competition for 100 your questions. up-and-coming future There will also be the opportunity to leaders of the fashion hear from some of the inspirational industry to win a place faces from our 30 under 30 feature (p3). Dat our exclusive event at Fabric in In addition, the Drapers Next Gener- London on March 31. ation Academy will provide an invalu- Next Generation Academy will able networking opportunity. feature exclusive content from This is a competition open to anyone leading names in fashion. Among in their third, second or third jobs with the stellar line-up is former Marks commercial experience of working in Speakers will include: & Spencer chairman Sir Stuart the fashion sector, be it in retail, at a Rose, Pentland Brands chief executive brand or supplier in any position from Andy Rubin, Next group product design to buying, merchandising and director Christos Angelides and retail operations. TK Maxx Europe president Paul We are looking for candidates who Sweetenham. are ambitious and driven and enthused All will share tips on how to by fashion. Are you looking to make a Paul Sir Stuart Andy Rubin Sweetenham Rose Pentland progress your career and how to name for yourself in fashion? If so, TK Maxx Europe Marks & Spencer Brands maximise opportunities in the current enter this competition now. l

HOW TO ENTER Either fill in the form below and post to Jessica Brown, editor, Drapers, Greater London House, London NW1 7EJ, or go to www.drapersonline.com/people/next-generation where you can complete your entry online.

NEXT GENERATION ACADEMY COMPETITION

Name Please state in no more than 100 words why you deserve to be a part of the Job Title Drapers Next Generation Academy on March 31. Company

(Please tick box) I confirm I am able to attend the Drapers Next Generation Academy from 9.30am to 6.30pm on March 31.

For full terms and conditions please go to www.drapersonline.com/people/next-generation WORKING ABROAD

Take off overseas With the experience of UK professionals now much sought after in emerging retail markets abroad, those bold enough to make the move will find more opportunities to quickly progress their career

Words Marino Donati Illustration Francesco Bongiorni/Eastwing

ith emerging Moira Benigson, managing partner at cases, are attractive to many people. But markets across executive search company MBS Group, the pitfalls to contend with are how fluc- Eastern Europe, says: “South Africa, the Middle East, Asia, tuating exchange rates can impact your Asia, the Middle particularly Thailand and China, are You can get salary, and making sure that if you are East and South where the most opportunities are. Many experience intending to move with a spouse that WAmerica expanding their retail opera- countries have good ex-pat packages they can get a visa too. tions, these countries are becoming including paying for accommodation abroad that But for Minogue, the motivation for increasingly hungry for the experience and kids’ schooling.” many senior retail people with ambition of UK fashion operators, meaning there Mary Anderson-Ford, director for you wouldn’t is simple: “If you want to get to the top in is more opportunity for those seeking to retail at Whitepeak Group, says: “Oppor- get so quickly an international business you have to climb the ladder overseas. tunities for buyers and designers are in understand international markets.” Fran Minogue, managing partner at abundance [abroad]. The global view is in the UK Among those that have made the executive search firm Heidrick & Strug- that UK merchandisers, in London espe- Samantha Jones, head move abroad is former Moss Bros chief

gles, says globalisation means there is cially, which is the heartbeat of retailing of design, C&A executive Philip Mountford. Now chief increasing international movement. in the UK, are in hot demand.” However, executive of Hunkemöller, the Dutch “Everyone thinks they’ll go to the US, she warns about the difference in termi- lingerie retailer, which was sold to private but it’s very hard to get a green card nology of job descriptions: “In India, a equity business PAI from Dutch retail now,” she says. “In emerging markets like merchandiser [works] in technical and group Maxeda in November last year, he India and China, there’s great demand production [roles], in the US a merchan- oversees a 500-strong chain that is in the for UK workers because they don’t have diser is a buyer. Australia calls its middle of a large retail expansion. the skills [there].” Minogue adds that UK merchandisers ‘planners’.” “Even if I wasn’t officially based in merchandisers are some of the most A better climate, a new culture, not to another country, in all my jobs I’ve spent skilled in Europe. mention favourable tax rates in some large amounts of time in other countries »

37 Drapers Month 00 2010 Drapers Next Generation 37 WORKING ABROAD

Moving on: Brit David Riddiford left the UK in 2004 to be president of Hong Kong department store Lane Crawford

« and I’ve always loved it,” he says. “The UK ness in 19 countries, they speak English has some of the best management in the office, and it’s been the easiest people in the world. They are good at integration I’ve had. There’s been a big cutting through all the layers. Interna- recruitment push – a lot of designers and tional businesses appreciate that.” UK candidates keep coming up.” Although Mountford has a “never say For Jones, the career advantages of never” attitude about returning to the working abroad are clear. “You can get UK, he says it can be limiting for experience abroad that you wouldn’t someone with global ambitions. get so quickly in the UK and you can “At Hunkemöller, we have 500 stores, move faster in your career,” she says. and I’m opening a new store about every David Riddiford, former chief execu- seven days. In the next 18 months, we’ll tive of Arnotts department store in have 600 stores worldwide in 13 coun- Dublin, has had international roles tries. EBITDA is 15% of sales. If you want during his career. His early career was to be part of a truly global business, all UK-based, including holding the roles of the best opportunities are abroad. If you merchandise director at Harvey Nichols look at the UK, which [fashion business] and buying and merchandising director has an international presence? It’s only a at Selfridges. But in 2004 he went to be few and it’s pretty small.” president of Hong Kong department store business Lane Crawford. Hands-on opportunities “They [people in Hong Kong] are Another international high flyer is Brit interested in working hard, making Samantha Jones, head of design for money and shopping,” he says. “[The kidswear at department store chain team] never like to leave the office C&A, based in Vilvoorde in Belgium, before the management, and once when and who has also worked for Next in myself and some colleagues were Portugal, Zara in Spain, and Turkish working late, we left the building and fashion retailer LC Waikiki, before walked around the block, waiting for moving to C&A. everyone to go home before we went Jones says her moves have been back in.” prompted by an opportunity to step up Although he has always been Taking the plunge: Philip in her role and career. “[Working] attracted to working in different Mountford has recently abroad, you are more exposed to the day- cultures, he says there are distinct profes- made the move abroad to-day problems, while in the UK you are sional opportunities available outside as chief executive of sheltered a little bit,” she says. “[Interna- the UK. “Regions like Southeast Asia and Dutch lingerie retailer tional businesses] are more hands-on the Middle East are developing at a very Hunkemöller with the manufacturing process. Things fast rate and the opportunity to get are more verbal, more team-oriented, involved in building a business is a lot there’s less hierarchy with less time greater compared with a more mature sitting in front of a computer. There’s market like the UK.” also a lot of training available.” He advises: “You have to recognise it Jones joined C&A one-and-a-half takes time to assimilate and to just live years ago. “It’s a truly multicultural busi- inside the British bubble is a mistake.” l

38 Drapers Next Generation ON YOUR OWN

f you think launching a business Scheme (EFGS) and Enterprise Invest- during today’s age of austerity is ment Scheme, which gives tax relief to madness, think again. More those who invest in start-ups. “When you than 200,000 businesses opened approach the banks for an EFGS, in the first six months of last you need a business plan with a clear Iyear – a rise of 51% on 2009, according to idea of your product offering,” she says. Going consultancy firm Yoodoo.biz. And even “And think creatively about your cash though banks are reluctant to lend, there sources. Some people have used redun- are ways to muscle your way in. dancy packages and help from friends Stephen Pegge, head of external and family.” affairs at Lloyds TSB Commercial, says: Another option is ‘invoice “Start-ups have a far higher chance of discounting’, which involves borrowing succeeding if their owners take the time money from a bank on the basis it alone to prepare for changes in the economy, that your business is owed money Leaving the relative safety of full-time shifts in consumer spending and fluctua- by a customer. employment to strike out on your own is tions in the price of raw materials. Identi- Consider contacting an “Angel fying risks early and developing strate- Investor” too. These are industry figures, a bold step to take. Drapers meets three brave gies to eliminate them will increase the often retired, who fund smaller ventures. souls who have done just that likelihood of success. Getting a good Roger Best, former chief executive of handle on the financials is a necessity.” handbag brand Radley, is one such Words Manfreda Cavazza PricewaterhouseCoopers head of investor. He says: “If you have a great private business Mary Monfries points business plan and unique proposition, to initiatives like the government- there will be individuals who will be backed Enterprise Finance Guarantee pleased to invest. l

DOODIE STARK Former Great Right location: the right location for the store and decided Plains sales Doodie Stark on Lindfield. It is a very affluent area but manager Liz is in an there are no shops like this. Women here Jefferson left the affluent area, have all got children. Many have moved with no shops here from London and have husbands who brand to open her like it nearby commute to the capital so they are cash rich womenswear indie but time poor. They want to find the same Doodie Stark in Lindfield, West brands they used to buy on Northcote Road Sussex in March 2010. It sells [in Battersea, south London]. contemporary brands such as How is it performing? 7 For All Mankind, Barbour and We spoke to people who had set up their Pretty Ballerinas to local yummy own businesses and asked them what to mummies. The shop has expect in the first year. So we came up outperformed all expectations, with a figure. We achieved it within the breaking into profit within first five-and-a-half months of opening and seven months. She reveals became profitable after seven. How did you fund the venture? how it was done It was self-financed. My husband and I both sold properties in London at the top Why did you decide to leave Great of the market and we used that money. Plains to start your own business? The plan is to pay back the directors loan We wanted a lifestyle change. I had been by the middle of 2011. working flat out at Great Plains. I still loved What top tip would you give to what I did but it was time to move on. I now aspiring entrepreneurs? drive 10 minutes down country lanes to my Have courage in your convictions. A lot of shop and it is a very sociable, very fun people were surprised we were setting up working environment. our business in a recession but we knew it Why do you think Doodie Stark has would work. Because of our location our been such a hit? rent is very low so we can afford to have We did a huge amount of research to find the odd quiet day. »

Drapers Next Generation 43 ON YOUR OWN

« MONICA & JOE

The next few years will be tough for the economy. Are you worried? With 20 years of experience in the fashion industry we think we’re on to a good thing. I was buying and merchandising director at Ted Baker for three years and before that I was group merchandising director at Husband and wife Joe and Mulberry. Monica was at Arcadia for 15 Monica Wahla believed there Tempting offer: years, working her way up to head of was a gap in the market for an Monica & Joe serves buying at Dorothy Perkins. online womenswear boutique up affordable luxury How much money do you need to and European brands fund an online fashion start-up? for established, affordable luxury It is in the hundreds of thousands. We’ve brands and less well-known ploughed our savings and investments into European labels. Last year, they it. We wanted to use our own money so we jumped ship from lucrative jobs could make all the decisions ourselves. – Joe at Ted Baker and Monica What are your financial expectations at Dorothy Perkins – to start for the business? Monicaandjoe.co.uk. Joe spoke We expect to break even in the first year to Drapers about the launch and make a profit in years two and three. What were the biggest challenges? Why do you think Monica We thought getting brands on board would & Joe will succeed? be difficult but our CVs opened doors. It There is nothing out there for fashionable, was harder delving into areas we knew less urban professionals in their 30s and about, like developing our website. 40s, who want pieces to wear again Networking is also important – you need and again. People are buying fewer but to speak to people who know about better-quality items. packaging and e-fulfilment.

LILY AND LIONEL Aged just 27, part of a small company was inspirational. And the biggest breakthrough? London College of It was on a trip to India that I got the idea When we got our largest order to date Fashion graduate for an affordable luxury accessories brand. for 2,000 scarves for retailer Anthropologie Did you get support? in the US. That was amazing. It still feels Alice Stone set up My family owns a successful wholesale quite bizarre saying it out loud. I almost accessories brand company called Bandana, so I had the can’t believe it happened. Lily and Lionel two links in the industry. What lessons have you learnt? years ago. Her ethical scarves What tips would you give to other Be flexible. I’d always wanted to be a have featured in Vogue, the start-ups trying to get funding? retailer and not get involved with wholesale Sunday Times Style supplement I had some financial help from my family orders. But agreeing to sell my products in and Grazia and are sold around but I also got a loan from the bank. Whistles and Matches has been great for the world, as well as on her I would advise anyone to be very cautious. my business. Wholesale now accounts for website. The brand has 30 UK Don’t live beyond your means. For 70% of sales, and without it I’d have to do stockists including indies example, look at freelance staff, or look a hell of a lot of advertising of my website. Whistles, Matches and The at how you can achieve a look on your How important is PR to you? website without spending too much You must never underestimate the power Dressing Room. The company, money. You don’t need to go bananas of the media. Make sure your website is named after her late grandparents, to begin with. up and running, so people have is close to becoming profitable What has been the toughest somewhere to go to. Make sure you have challenge? plenty of product being featured in the Why did you decide to go it alone at I knew I had good taste, a good eye, but press. It’s amazing the impact a mention such a young age? I’d never done anything like it before. in Vogue has on sales. I worked in PR for a couple of years after Building the website was tough. I had Wrapped up: Lily and Any regrets? graduating and then worked for designer no idea about the technical side of things. Lionel has 2,000 scarves My job is quite tiring but I absolutely love it. Matthew Williamson as an intern. Being I had to trust other people to do it. on order for Anthropologie I can’t imagine doing anything else.

44 Drapers Next Generation