Drapers Next Merchandisers, Retailers and Accountants P3 30 Under 30 Generation Concept Early in 2010, It Has Making Their Mark on the Sector
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GENERATION IN ASSOCIATION WITH WELCOME Shaping the future of fashion retailing Since we launched the Drapers Next merchandisers, retailers and accountants p3 30 under 30 Generation concept early in 2010, it has making their mark on the sector. The industry’s 30 under 30 rising stars are taken on a life of its own. We have expanded These young talents now need to be making waves across the fashion sector the size of both the event, doubling the nurtured and coached through to the next p28 number of delegates, and this supplement stages of their careers. These are the very It Could Be You to make sure we celebrate even more of the people that will help us through the economic With fewer jobs available, graduates need young talent that the fashion industry recovery and back into growth, with their determination and talent to stand out continues to attract. bank of innovative new ideas that will shape p30 Over 44 pages, Drapers has hunted down the future of fashion retailing. Baby Boardroom the names you need to know as future leaders On March 31, we welcome the second intake Meet some of the youngest boardroom stars making a big impact on the industry of the industry, starting with our 30 under 30 of Next Generation stars to our exclusive on p3. seminar. See p36 for details on how p33 It’s not only designers grabbing the to be a part of our free one-day seminar. Fashion’s Got Talent Tips from the top on how to identify spotlight either – there are plenty of buyers, Jessica Brown Editor and nurture young members of staff p37 Take Off Overseas Emerging markets are providing more opportunities for UK professionals abroad Young talent gives p43 Going It Alone What’s it like to leave the safety of a us confidence in 2011 full-time job to set up your own business? Success Appointments is delighted to be We will soon see, as the VAT increase, rising sponsoring Drapers Next Generation for the raw material costs and cuts take effect. IN ASSOCIATION WITH second year. We gained a huge amount from The modern elements of our industry such last year’s programme. The motivation and as ecommerce, product design and sourcing enthusiasm of the young attendees was an call for that youthful eye and vision. inspiration, and gave us confidence in the However, the industry still lacks “on the job” future of our industry. training schemes for young talent. These can PARTNERS It is interesting to note the change in the be set up at little cost and the benefits always economic climate compared with this time outweigh the commitment needed to last year. We have seen a marked increase establish them. We call on employers to in confidence and investment during 2010. run in-house training and development The fact that employers are now seeking programmes wherever practical. It will bring both youth, and a mix of experience in their untold benefits to your own businesses, the people, reflects the improvement in the industry, and the economy. business climate. The question remains as to Stephen Selby Managing director, how permanent this will be as we enter 2011. Success Appointments EDITOR Jessica Brown COMMISSIONING EDITOR Ana Santi GROUP PRODUCTION EDITOR Steve Draper SUPPLEMENTS PRODUCTION EDITOR Tracey Gardner GROUP ART DIRECTOR Alison Fisher PRODUCTION MANAGER Jo Lambert HEAD OF RECRUITMENT AND CLASSIFIED SALES Sonia Kho ASSISTANT SALES MANAGER Julia Jones CONTRIBUTORS Åse Anderson, Sarah Butler, Manfreda Cavazza, Josephine Collins, Marino Donati Drapers Next Generation 1 UNDER For the second year running, Drapers unveils the 30 buyers, designers, merchandisers and entrepreneurs under the age of 30 who are tipped to become the fashion industry’s movers and shakers of the future Words Josephine Collins 30 UNDER 30 Trade secrets: Allender is fascinated by the bespoke and prototype bag process whizz. During the apprenticeship, he worked alongside the existing team of craftsmen, qualifying with both NVQ and City & Guilds certificates. “There is a lot of satisfaction working with the leather and seeing it move from being a full skin to it coming off the end of line,” Allender says. He is Mitch Allender fascinated by the bespoke and proto- Cutter, Mulberry, aged 20 type bag process and would eventually like to get involved with those. Still just 20 years old, Mitch Allender is Mulberry supply director Ian Scott already a key member of luxury acccesso- says: “Investing in the skills of luxury ries brand Mulberry’s production team at craftsmanship is an important strategy Rookery in Somerset – and one of the for Mulberry and our apprenticeship first graduates of the brand’s apprentice- scheme has been a fantastic success. I ship scheme, which was set up in 2008 in have no doubt that not only is it conjunction with sector skills council securing the skills required for our long- Skillfast UK and Bridgwater College. term success, but I am convinced that Mulberry is keen to keep the skills the future managers of our UK factory needed for handbag production local, will be today’s apprentices.” and Allender, who joined the scheme It certainly looks like the investment straight from college, has gained all the in apprenticeships is paying off for technical skills he needs to be a cutting Allender, as well as for Mulberry. Rachael Batt Buyer, House of Fraser, aged 29 Rachael’s Since her teenage years, Rachael Batt says she ploughed all her energy into ability to getting into buying. During her English create literature degree, she worked on the shopfloor at Next, rising to a store winners is Dan Cairrao management role, followed by full-time a great skill Head of menswear merchandising, shopfloor work at Monsoon, during All Saints, aged 30 which time she also undertook a buying and success and merchandising course at the story Dan Cairrao joined premium young London College of Fashion. Michelle Hawes, director of fashion chain All Saints in spring 2010 “It was a challenge to get into the busi- buying for womenswear, seeking out a fast-paced environment in ness without a specific degree,” Batt says, House of Fraser which to beef up his experience in but her perseverance, and specialist menswear merchandising. training, paid off when she got a job at Following a business studies degree Debenhams as trainee assistant buyer, at Portsmouth University, Cairrao eventually rising to assistant buyer. joined Bhs, where he spent five years in Batt joined House of Fraser three menswear. John Lewis then followed. years ago, also as assistant buyer. She “I like developing people, pushing the became junior buyer after a year, and business forward and doing the best I can was promoted to buyer six months later. every day,” he says. “All Saints is giving me Today, she works largely on the faster-paced environment that will own-brand collections, including Own brand: Batt works on Pied a Terre eventually open up more avenues.” Pied a Terre. Mary Anderson-Ford, director of retail Michelle Hawes, director of buying Her ability to create winners is a great at recruitment specialist Whitepeak, for womenswear at House of Fraser, skill and success story. She is totally says: “Dan’s next step will be as director says: “Rachael is a stylish professional reliable and is never fazed by the new of merchandising in the next few years, buyer with a natural flair for product. challenges she is given.” and I’m confident he won’t stop there.” 4 Drapers Next Generation 30 UNDER 30 during his school days, and then Reece Crisp at Fluke in Sutton. Assistant buyer contemporary “I loved my school work menswear brands, Mr Porter, experience – it was an inspi- Helen is a aged 24 ration to me. I then went on to take a degree in perfect Just three months into his new fashion management at example of role at Net-a-Porter’s soon-to- London College of launch luxury menswear site Fashion,” he says. someone who Helen Gibbs Mr Porter, Reece Crisp is “I ask for opportunities will build a Ugandan Foundation project manager, among the coterie of bright to get involved in TJX Europe, aged 30 young buyers and merchan- different functions in the brilliant disers taking the business business. I always want to retail career Flexible, able to think on her feet, resil- forward. contribute outside of my Paul Sweetenham, group ient and prepared to work through Crisp joined Mr Porter remit.” president, TJX Europe change – Helen Gibbs is the kind of from etail giant Asos, where Crisp admits to being young high-flyer that retailers love. he was also assistant buyer very ambitious. “I want to be Gibbs joined TJX Europe, owner of on premium brands, having a buying director at some TK Maxx, four years ago on its graduate started his full-time buying point. I love buying and know scheme, following a microbiology career as an allocator at House that I will progress.” MPhil and a stint at young fashion indie of Fraser. Clockwork Orange in Belfast. But the fashion bug caught Male order: Yves Saint Laurent Gibbs’ potential was recognised Crisp much earlier – he worked (left) is among the brands set for when she won an internal fast-track at indie White House in Harlow Mr Porter programme called TJXcellence to work on a range of cross-functional projects. This January, Gibbs is spearheading the Ugandan Foundation Project for the business, a pan-European project to appetite when she came into contact raise money to help educate under-priv- with the buyers at designer mini-chain ileged children in Uganda. She’ll be Flannels, where she worked after sourcing product that is scalable and graduating in psychology from Liver- commercially viable for the stores.