increasingly being asked about the pace of change, Ethical : an oxymoron? with many arguing for more radical, systemic change. How can we grow people’s influence on the In a few sectors, a large proportion of products sold are food system beyond the point of purchase? now certified in the UK e.g. ‘ethical’ tea and organic baby food. However, even if all markets were certified and labelled as ‘ethical’ in the future, that might not The current landscape equate to food systems being fair and sustainable. Too often with current certification, the ‘process is The rise of ethical becoming the purpose’. The notion of the ‘ethical ’ in the UK arguably emerged in the late 1980s and early 1990s, symbolised Going beyond what the consumer wants by the magazine launching in 1989 – albeit values-driven of food and drink has There are also limitations of food businesses only existed for much longer. The term ‘ethical’ means focusing on what consumers want. different things to different people – from ‘doing no For starters, there is no consensus as to what the top harm’ to ‘having a positive impact on others’. What ethical priority is (or should be). Well-intentioned constitutes harm is often contested, which is one concerns voiced by the public do not often recognise reason why we need healthy discourse and explicit unintended consequences of a single-issue focus. justification of courses of action. There are also many important issues which get little Ethical food buying is assumed to still be niche, but that ‘consumer response’, e.g. factory farming. of course depends on the definition of ‘ethical’ used. When businesses allow thinking to be too heavily The Ethical Consumer Markets Report 20171 charts the directed by ‘ethical consumers’, it can lead to them growth in ‘ethical food and drinks’ from just over £1 becoming more reactive than proactive, and at the billion in 1999 to £9.8 billion in 2016 in the UK. This mercy of the fickleness of public opinion. The current seemingly inexorable rise in ethical food consumption fixation with plastics is a good example of this, with is very welcome, but surely a bit more conscious ethical some retailers – and indeed ‘ethical consumers’ - food buying falls short of the depth of change needed? jumping on the ‘Blue Planet plastics moment’ and The results of survey-based ‘consumer segmentation’ considering boycotting plastics. This is despite most suggest that 5-10% of the UK are ‘ethical’ in experts agreeing that sometimes plastics are the most their buying habits, 20-30% at the other end never environmentally friendly materials and most knowingly buy anything ‘ethical’ and the large "computable" alternatives can in reality neither be proportion in the middle ‘sometimes do’, particularly if composted nor recycled. Food companies plus those it is easy, available and affordable to do so. This involved in media and have a responsibility segmentation is reported to be similar in lots of other to bridge past the ‘top’ layer of ethical issues. countries around the world. However, interpreting these findings to mean that ‘most people do not really Focusing only on the ‘consumer’ - who only has care about ethical concerns in relation to food’ both agency in consuming - neglects systemic aspects overstates the evidence and risks underestimating the trend towards greater ethical concern. of injustice and unfairness in the food system.

The age of Another issue of only listening to the (ethical) With the rise of the ethical consumer’s demands, the consumer, is that it limits the level of engagement. In sector’s response often becomes limited to ‘providing the food context, there is a tendency to blame information’ (e.g. Conscious Consumer app). In a individuals for ‘not being ethical enough’. But for lots system where people are treated as simply consumers, of people, particularly on low incomes, their food the natural response is to create certification models choices are heavily constrained. Wouldn’t it be more and provide information via labels. Certification has empowering to give people real agency, rather than been a response to managing risk and vetting for merely talk about their choice? ethical products. Labels are not just there to inform the public – they can be a powerful way of driving positive action in the supply chain. Whilst independent certification can bring benefits, questions are

1 Ethical Consumer website © Food Ethics Council 1 www.foodethicscouncil.org

The power of language impact of viewing people as engaged citizens – citizens The word ‘consumer’ carries with it a set of ideas of being trusted and respected, and having the agency to what a person’s role should be. It has become a shape what the decision should be. The former could mindset of what the right thing to do is, rather than just be thought of as a ‘consumer referendum’, where the one of the many roles people can play2. By repeatedly terms were entirely defined for people and the choice thinking of one another as consumers, it becomes a was arguably between two ill-defined and undesirable system-wide mindset. ‘products’. By contrast, in the latter, the terms were defined by a citizens’ assembly, made up of a The mindset in which people operate affects the way representative sample of the population, over a 16- they choose to engage with others. For example, the month process. This led to a more nuanced debate and differences between the Brexit Referendum and the outcomes that fewer people contested. Irish referendum on abortion illustrate the positive

A new vision Shifting assumptions FROM (current prevailing assumption) TO (a different way of thinking) People are consumers, who (sometimes) vote People are citizens, who consume food The food system is ‘broken’ The food system works very well at doing what we no longer want it to do Ethical food is a niche All things being equal, everybody would prefer ethical food and farming systems, but their current agency to shape the system is limited Big business is always unethical Every business has an opportunity to change the system ‘Good’ business is about creating profit Good business is about creating value Consumers need more information Citizens have agency Neo-liberal economic discourse is the only way The current economic narrative can be reframed3 The only way to increase power and make change Power in systems (knowledge, capital, etc.) flows through in the system is by scaling up a business nurtured networks that share a common set of beliefs. Change happens as more players join that network.

What can business do to grow people’s influence in the UK food system? Create meaningful connections with suppliers Engage with others to drive system change With the increasing complexity of the food system, Food and farming businesses could focus on harnessing there is more disconnection with the individuals the agency and expertise that is latent, rather than shaping it. An example from outside the food sector simply making products more saleable. If people are was given of a company selling ethical cotton pyjamas, thought of differently – as active participants who want where the Board of the retail company met the (in this to contribute and shape things – this opens up lots of case) women making the garments. Creating a direct creative opportunities. What might a shift look like human connection with supply chain workers can from describing people as consumers who occasionally change the perspectives of, and dynamics, between vote, to citizens who consume? different stakeholders. It is important to engage with government too, to share what ethical businesses need most. One small example given was pushing for business rates relief for “Once you meet these [supplier] communities in sustainable restaurants. person, you become accountable to them.”

2 New Citizenship Project – Food Citizenship (2017) [link] 3 Framing the Economy (2018) [link] © Food Ethics Council 2 www.foodethicscouncil.org

Offer people a financial stake in the business Conclusions People can become more directly involved through There is a growing understanding that we are having a financial stake in a food or drink business. operating within a system, which requires us to change Brewdog pioneered equity crowdfunding, creating a our strategies in our efforts to transform it. Currently, community of ‘equity punks’ that now applies pressure a lot of the context within which we operate and held the company to account by being part of the undermines our efforts (see ‘assumptions table’), but conversation. It has, for example, become one of the business have the power to transform this context. first living wage employers. What constitutes ‘good for business’ does not When seeking to involve people, business leaders necessarily equate to ‘generates more customers should critically involve employees, which they might now’. Taking a consumer-led approach, buying our way not do if they were just labelling people as consumers. to a ‘better’ food system, is not enough and is arguably There is a growing number of examples where getting in the way of an urgently-needed long-term employees have been offered a stake in the business. approach to food system challenges. Most recently, Riverford moved to 74% employee ownership, following in the footsteps of like Rather than just reacting to what is put on the agenda Waitrose that have long pioneered that model. by the latest consumer , food businesses can take a lead and create more meaningful levels of engagement with people, be it customers, employees, Start small shareholders, or suppliers. Change, however small, can have a lasting positive impact on the business and the wider UK food and farming sector. So start small, experiment, learn, What next? review, adapt and move forward. This approach allows for the strategy to adapt as the context inevitably evolves, makes it easier for change to be encouraged, • Who can I brainstorm with for new ideas in my and accepted, throughout the business, reduces risks business? to the business, and gives rise to unforeseeable • What is my power in my current position in the opportunities. food system (e.g. my business, my office, my industry)? Understand our own unique agency in the system • How can I start a conversation with all Each business is unique, so each step to transform the stakeholders now, rather than just react to UK food and farming system will be unique. Every food public opinion? business can be engaged to contribute to system • How can our business tap into both macro change – for example by contributing a new ethical (famous people) and micro influencers (so-called business model or by engaging suppliers to shift ‘normal’ people)? towards more ethical practices. Core to success is • Which organisations are already seeking to grow understanding the power and reach of each player in people’s influence beyond point of purchase? the system. • What is the tone of the conversation food brands should be having with their customers? “Business is part of society. We all employ • How can we ‘do with’, rather than ‘do to’? people. We all have families. We all have a future to look forward in some way.” The Food Ethics Council is working to build a Food Citizenship movement and in so doing will be gathering inspiration from food organisations exhibiting aspects of the food citizenship mindset. For more information, go to foodcitizenship.info.

This is a report of the Business Forum meeting from 10th July 2018. We are grateful to our keynote speakers, Rob Harrison, editor of Ethical Consumer magazine and Julian Baggini, author, philosopher and member of the Food Ethics Council. There was a short ‘response’ from our current Chair, Jon Alexander, co-founder of the New Citizenship Project. The meeting was chaired by Dan Crossley, Executive Director of the Food Ethics Council. The views expressed in this report do not necessarily represent those of the Food Ethics Council, nor its members. For more information on the Business Forum, contact Dan Crossley [email protected] +44 (0) 333 012 4147.

© Food Ethics Council 3 www.foodethicscouncil.org