1

Hiking in the Carpathians

omania - Simply Surprising and Surprisingly Diverse is a dynamic showcase for the enduring splendors of its fascinating past, timeless natural wonders and modern-day marvels. There is always another mystery to uncover — a legendary fog enshrouded castle, a village lost in time, unexplored mountains and ice caves. A world outside of time awaits discovery. RNow is the time to explore Romania’s many mysteries — all Meet the People: Romanians have a well-deserved reputation surprisingly accessible to international travelers through Sky for being exceptionally friendly and hospitable. They are by Team: Delta, KLM, Air France and Alitalia (www.SkyTeam.com). nature fun-loving, warm and playful, with an innate sense of Getting around the country can easily be done by car or train; a humor. Many romanians living in towns and cities are able to three hour journey will take you, from Bucharest to the medieval communicate in English, French or German. In smaller villages towns in , from Sighișoara to the world’s famous it’s usually the younger people who speak one or more foreign Painted Monasteries in Bucovina. languages. History and Heritage: Romania’s history has not been as When to Go: Romania is a year-round tourist destination, with idyllically peaceful as its geography. Over the centuries, various mid-April to late June and late August to the end of October being migrating people invaded Romania. Romania’s historical the best sightseeing periods, due to generally mild and pleasant provinces Walachia and Moldova offered furious resistance to the temperatures. Summers can be hot, especially in Southern invading Ottoman Turks. Protected from direct Ottoman attacks Romania, including Bucharest. Mountain resorts and higher by the Carpathian Mountains, Transylvania was successively elevation areas are warm and pleasant during summer. Winters under Hapsburg, Ottoman or Walachian rule, while remaining can be cold, especially in the mountains and snow is common an autonomous province. throughout the country from December to mid-February.

Romania’s Best Known Attractions include: Contents: * Transylvania’s medieval towns, including Sighișoara, Brașov, Sibiu and Biertan. Bucharest (București)...... 4 * Fairy-tale castles, such as Peleș Castle in Sinaia, near Brașov and Transylvania...... 8 Corvinești Castle near Deva. Bucovina ...... 12 * The Painted Monasteries, whose exteriors feature Byzantine-influenced frescoes . Road Map of Romania...... 14 * Bucharest, capital city and home of opulent palaces, magnificent architecture Maramureș...... 16 and fascinating museums. * Danube Delta, a wilderness paradise for birds and wildlife. Danube Delta & The Black Sea. . 18 * The Black Sea: Beach resorts and Medical Spas to rejuvenate and unwind. Medical Spas ...... 19 * Century-old villages, such as the ones in Maramureș and Transylvania, where and Crișana ...... 20 festivals, weekly fairs and produce markets keep ancient traditions alive. Gastronomy & Wine...... 21 * The scenic Carpathian Mountains, great for hiking and wildlife watching. Sample Itineraries...... 22 * 31 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Practical Information...... 26

3 Bucharest - The Romanian Athenaeum

ucharest - Romania’s Capital of Culture Known for its wide, tree-lined boulevards, marvelous Belle Époque buildings and reputation for the high life Bucharest (București) was once called the “Little Paris”. However, there’s nothing little about the scope of Bucharest’s attractions, ranging from museums, art galleries, parks, and myriad architectural delights. BTrue, the French influence is there in the 19th century architecture, facades in the city; the National History Museum, and the and there is even an Arch of Triumph on the elegant Șoseaua architectural gems in the Royal Palace Square: the former Kiseleff - a tree-lined boulevard reminiscent of Paris’ Champs- Royal Palace, now home to the National Art Museum, the Elysees - but Bucharest has a charm, culture and history that is historic Athenee Palace Hotel, and the stunning Romanian uniquely its own. The city can also provide all the comforts and Athenaeum. Renowned worldwide for its outstanding acoustics, conveniences that visitors seek, including familiar hotel names, the Athenaeum is Bucharest’s most prestigious concert hall and such as J W Marriott, Hilton, Radisson, InterContinental, home of Romania’s National Philharmonic. Every other year the Golden Tulip, Sofitel-Pullman or Crowne Plaza. The main Romanian Athenaeum is the main venue for one of Europe’s international gateway to Romania, Bucharest is served by two greatest classical music festivals, named after Romania’s most international airports, and it is well connected by roads and prestigious musician: George Enescu. railways to Romania’s numerous tourist attractions. Perhaps the city’s unique charm can be best observed in the old City Landmarks: Stroll along Calea Victoriei, Bucharest’s city center, around the area known as Lipscani. At the beginning oldest and arguably, most charming street, to discover some of of 1400s, merchants and craftsmen - Romanian, Austrian, Greek, the most stunning buildings in the city, including the French Serbian, Armenian and Jewish - established their stores and eclectic-style Cantacuzino Palace – today home of the Museum shops in this section of the city. Soon, the area became known of the Romanian Music; the Military Club, the Palace of the as Lipscani, named for the many traders from ‘Lipsca’ (Leiptzig). Savings Bank – boasting one of the most impressive neoclassical The mix of nationalities and cultures represented in Lipscani area 4 Bucharest - Mogosoaia Palace Bucharest - University Library is reflected in the mixture of architectural styles, from baroque Main Museums: to neoclassical to art nouveau. A once-glamorous commercial - The National Museum of Art houses 70,000 works by Romanian area, the old historic center is being revamped to become an art artists, including Brancuși, Grigorescu, Aman and Andreescu, as galleries, antique shops and coffee houses district. At the center of well as Western masters such as Rembrandt, Rubens, Renoir and the historic area are the ruins of the Old Princely Court - built Cezanne. in the 15th century by prince Vlad Ţepes (Vlad the Impaler), and - The Village Museum is a fascinating open-air museum in the Princely Church. Herăstrău Park that displays more than 300 buildings that reflect Buzzing with crowds and traffic from early morning until late at the history and diversity of Romania’s rural architecture and night, The University Square is another city landmark, bringing design from all regions of the country. together some remarkable architectural masterpieces on each of - The Museum of the Romanian Peasant features an extraordinary its four corners, starting with the University of Bucharest, the collection of furniture, pottery, costumes, fabrics and apparel, neoclassical Colţea Hospital, the Bucharest National Theater, agricultural tools, household appliances, and religious objects. and the Șuţu Palace, famous for the grandiose balls held here - The History Museum of Romania, housed in what was once in the 1900s, now home to the Bucharest History & Art Bucharest’s main post office, presents a collection of artifacts and Museum. jewelry that date from prehistoric to modern times. Bucharest has 37 museums; 22 theaters, 2 opera houses, 3 concert Other large museums of note include the Museum of Art halls; 23 art galleries; and a wealth of libraries and bookstores. Collections, Natural History Museum and Museum of the City of Many of these are housed in buildings that are attractions in Bucharest. Smaller museums, catering to enthusiasts with a taste themselves, sporting architectural styles influenced by both for special interests include the National Geological Museum, eastern and western cultures. National Museum of Old Maps & Books, Technical Museum,

Pride - and Joy According to Romanian legend, Bucharest was founded by a shepherd whose extraordinary flute playing and prowess as a vintner so impressed the local residents that they gave his name (Bucur translates as “joy”) - to the place: București (be joyful). Today, Romania is a parliamentary democracy where the “House of the People”, meant to be the seat of the communist regime in Bucharest, has been transformed into the Palace of Parliament (pictured). * It is the world’s second largest building after the U.S. Pentagon, a proud edifice of over 1,100 rooms that reflects the work of the country’s best architects and artisans. * It is built entirely from Romanian materials and products, including local marble, cherry and walnut paneling, crystal chandeliers; and hand-woven tapestries, carpets and draperies. * The crystal chandelier in the Human Rights Hall weighs over 6,000 lbs and has more than 7,000 light bulbs. Bucharest - the Palace of Parliament

5 Bucharest - the Savings Bank Bucharest - the Arch of Triumph

Museum of Astronomy, Museum of the Romanian Music and Jewish Bucharest - Bucharest is home to one of the oldest and the Railway Engines and Cars Museum. most important Jewish communities in Romania. Sephardic Music, Drama and More: Lovers of performing arts can spend Jews arrived here in the 16th century and at the beginning of the an evening or more at the National Philharmonic, the Opera 17th century, during the Cossack uprising, the first Ashkenazi House, Operetta House, several drama theaters, or the Jewish Jews came from Ukraine and Poland. A sacred brotherhood, a Theater. charity box and a prayer house were registered in 1715. Some of the synagogues built during the 18th and 19th century also Shopping: shops and stores offer everything from handicrafts to featured ritual baths (mikve). By 1832, 10 holy houses had been antiques, from fine china to crystal. Truly unique crafts, such as embroidered clothing and linen, blouses, skirts, exotic coats, established. Their number would increase significantly before painted eggs, pottery, woodcarvings, icons, rugs are available at the end of the century, almost every one having its own Rabbi specialized handicraft stores (Artizanat) as well as the shops of the and cult performers. At the beginning of the 20th century, the Museum of the Romanian Peasant and the Village Museum. Jewish population in Bucharest numbered 40,000 people with 70 temples and synagogues. A few of them still serve the city’s Nightlife and Dining: Bucharest is one of the few cities in present Jewish community. Europe with gambling. A few 18th and 19th century palaces now house elegant casinos, where guests can play blackjack, poker, Sites of interest include: Dr. Moses Rosen Museum of the craps, roulette, and other games of chance, dance all night to live History of the Jewish Community in Romania, Choral music, and dine at sumptuous buffets. Temple (Templul Coral) - services are held every day at 8:00 am and 7:00 pm; on Saturday, they are held at 8:30 am and 7:00 pm. Dining options include Casa Doina, Locanta Jaristea, Carul Yeshoah Tova Synagogue cu Bere - a pub with intricate art nouveau exterior walls; Casa . Vernescu - a French restaurant housed in an elegant mansion, as Bucharest Jewish Community well as numerous other restaurants and sidewalk cafes. Address: Str. Sfânta Vineri 9 -11 Tel: (021) 313.17.82

Peleș Castle Seventy-five miles north of Bucharest is Peleș Castle - one of the most beautiful castles in all Europe. Nestled at the foot of the Bucegi Mountains in the picturesque town of Sinaia, Peleș is a masterpiece of German new-Renaissance architecture. Commissioned by King Carol I in 1873 and completed in 1883, the castle’s interiors are an opulent display of elegant design and historical artifacts. Its 160 rooms are adorned with the finest examples of European art: Murano crystal chandeliers, German stained-glass windows, walls covered with Cordoba leather, Meissen and Sevres porcelains, ebony and ivory sculptures. Peles is open from June until September, Tuesday through Sunday, 10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., and from October until May, Wednesday through Sunday, same hours. The castle is closed Sinaia - the Peleș Castle during the entire month of November.

6 Bucharest - The Romanian Athenaeum

Bucharest – Basic Information Bucharest Hop On / Hop Off Sightseeing Bus Tours. Although a member of the European Union, Romania does not Hop-on, hop-off bus tours are operated daily on a fleet of yet use the Euro. The national currency of Romania is calledLeu new double-decker buses. Travelers can get an introduction to (plural Lei). Price tags indicate RON - the abbreviation for Lei. Bucharest’s fascinating architectural mix and get familiar with the Airports - Most international flights arrive at Henri Coanda city’s main places of interest in about 90 minutes. International Airport, 12 miles north of downtown Bucharest. Taxis Transportation: * From the airport: Henri Coanda Airport (Otopeni) to the city center: Currently several taxi companies are licensed to pick up Express Bus 783 runs to and from the city center, with stops passengers from the airport. Fare to downtown Bucharest is at Băneasa Airport, Piaţa Presei Libere, Piaţa Victoriei, Piaţa about $25. Fly Taxi offers easy online and phone reservations. Romană, Piaţa Universitaţii and Piaţa Unirii. (www.TaxiFly.ro, telephone 9440) The bus operates daily from 5:30 am to 11:00 pm. The journey to downtown takes approximately 50 minutes. * Within the city and to the airport: Round-trip fare is 7.00 Lei (about $2.10) . Taxis can be summoned by telephone or hailed on the street. Henri Coanda Airport to the train station (Gara de Nord): Rates per km should be posted on driver’s and passenger doors. Express Bus 780 runs from and to Henri Coanda Airport, Average Taxi rates: with stops at: Băneasa Airport, Piaţa Presei Libere, Clăbucet and Gara de Nord. Initial Fee: 2.0 Lei ($0.60) plus 2.0 Lei / km ($0.95 / mile) The bus operates daily from 5:15 am to 10:50 pm. Taxi rates can vary from company to company. Check the rates The journey to the train station takes approximately 45 minutes with the driver and ask him to confirm the approximate fare for Round-trip fare is 7.00 Lei (about $2.10). the trip. Please note that some taxi companies may post and Bucharest has an efficient public transportation network which charge rates up to five times higher than the averages above. includes: bus (autobuz), tram (tramvai) and trolley bus (troleibuz) Safety as well as subway (Metrou) . Bucharest is safe and hospitable. Violent crime against visitors is The ground transportation system operates - between 5:00am almost non-existent. As in any large city visitors are advised to and 11:59 pm. A one-way ticket is 1.30 Lei (about 40 cents). take usual safety precautions. Do not draw unnecessary attention Tickets are interchangeable. The subway is the fastest way to get to your person, money or jewelry and be aware of pickpockets around the city center and to reach attractions such as Cotroceni and scam artists. Never accept taxi/ car rides, tours or guide Palace, Palace of Parliament, the Arch of Triumph and the services from strangers, no matter how presentable or fluent in Village Museum. English, who approach you on the street. All information in this section is valid at the time of publication. For the latest updates, please visit www.RomaniaTourism.com

7 Brașov - Black Church

ransylvania - The Legendary “Land Beyond the Forest” Storybook Transylvania - wild forests, howling wolves, and remote medieval castles - really does exists and is waiting to be explored. (National Geographic - Journeys of a Lifetime) TTransylvania boasts numerous medieval towns, modern cities, Among Brașov’s best known historical and cultural attractions spas, quaint villages, vineyards and a wealth of historic attractions. are the Council Square, the beautiful Saint Nicholas Church; The Carpathian Mountains beckon hikers and caving enthusiasts, Black Church - the largest Gothic church east of Vienna - so while its rivers attract rafters and fishermen. named because of its dark walls which survived a devastating fire Some of Europe’s best-preserved medieval towns, most notably in 1689, Brașov Fortress, with three of its four gates dating back Sighisoara, Brasov, Sibiu and Biertan are located in Transylvania. to the 13th century still functional, the Museum of History, Visitors can marvel at unique architectural treasures as they stroll Museum of Ethnography, The Museum of Art, Opera House, on narrow cobblestone streets. The region is also home to nearly Drama Theater and Marionette Theater. 200 villages, churches and fortifications founded by Saxons Visit these archeological and historic gems before heading between the 13th and 15th centuries. for Bran Castle, 16 miles southwest of Brașov. This fortified BRAȘOV - Fringed by the peaks of the Carpathian Mountains medieval castle, often referred to as Dracula’s Castle, was and resplendent with gothic, baroque and renaissance architecture, built by the citizens of Brasov in 1377. Its rooms and towers as well as a wealth of historical attractions, Brașov is one of the surround an inner courtyard. Some rooms are connected through most visited places in Romania. underground passages. Bran Castle also houses a collection of furniture, Romanian and foreign, and art items from the 14th The city was founded by the Teutonic Knights in 1211 on an to 19th centuries. The castle is open daily, from 9:00 am to ancient Dacian site and settled by the Saxons. Fortifications were 4:00 pm. (12 pm to 4:00 pm on Mondays). erected around the city and continually expanded, with several towers maintained by different craft guilds, according to medieval Only 5 miles from Brasov lies the modern ski resort of Poiana custom. Brașov’s location - at the intersection of trade routes Brașov, where Hollywood celebrities Nicole Kidman, Renee linking the Ottoman Empire and western Europe - together Zellweger and Jude Law relaxed after shooting the film The Cold with certain tax exemptions, allowed Saxon merchants to obtain Mountain on location in nearby fields and farms. considerable wealth and exert a strong political influence in the Also in close proximity to Brasov are the fortified churches at region. This was reflected in the city’s German name, Kronstadt, Hărman, with its massive 13th century defending towers, and as well as in its Latin name, Corona, meaning Crown City (hence, Prejmer, the biggest fortified church in Southeastern Europe, the coat of arms of the city which is a crown with oak roots). built in the 14th century by Saxons. 8 Sighișoara - the Clock Tower Sighișoara - Access to the Citadel

SIGHIȘOARA - Transylvania is also home to the exquisite controlled the main gate of the half-mile-long defensive wall. medieval town of Sighișoara, a perfectly intact 15th century gem Starting from 1899, the Clock Tower has housed the Museum where nine towers, cobbled streets, burgher houses and ornate of History, which mirrors the evolution of crafts in Transylvania. churches rival the historic streets of old Prague or Vienna for The Museum also holds a medieval pharmacy from 1670, artifacts atmospheric magic. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Sighișoara of ethnography, a section of fine arts and a collection of clocks. is also the birthplace of Vlad Dracula, nicknamed Vlad Ţepeș Walking up the creaking, winding staircase gets you to the top (Vlad the Impaler), ruler of Walachia from 1456 to 1462. It and a fine view of the red-tiled roofs of the Old Town and intact was Vlad who inspired Bram Stoker’s fictional creation, Count 15th and 16th century Saxon houses. Dracula. His house is just one of many attractions here. Every year in July, Sighișoara hosts the Festival of Medieval Arts Others include the Church on the Hill, with its 500-year-old and Crafts which re-creates the medieval atmosphere of the frescos; the Church of the Dominican Monastery, known for town, complete with troubadour music and costume parades, its Transylvanian Renaissance carved altarpiece, baroque painted street entertainers and handicraft displays, open-air concerts and pulpit, Oriental carpets and 17th century organ; and the Venetian medieval ceremonies. House, built in the 13th century. In the nearby countryside, another UNESCO World Heritage There is nothing to distract the traveler from the beauties of the town, 13th-century Biertan, stands high on a hill, enclosed by medieval architecture - like the famous 14th century Clock Tower, walls more than 35 feet high. The most famous of the fortified whose “modern” works were made by the same manufacturer that churches, Biertan was the seat of the Lutheran bishops from made the famed astronomical clock tower in Prague. This tower 1572 to 1867.

The Siebenburgen: a Saxon Heritage The Saxons came to Transylvania - central Romania - during the mid 1100s from the Rhine and Moselle regions of Northwestern Europe. They called the area they settled “ Siebenburgen” after the seven major walled towns they built: Bistriţa (Bistritz), Brașov (Kronstadt), Cluj-Napoca (Klausenburg), Sibiu (Hermannstadt), Mediaș (Mediasch), Sebeș (Mühlbach) and Sighișoara (Schässburg). The result of almost nine centuries of Saxon existence in Transylvania is a cultural and architectural heritage, unique in Europe. Transylvania is home to nearly two hundred villages, churches, refuges or military outposts encircled with fortifications built by Saxons - for protection against the constant invaders - between the 13th and 15th centuries. The Saxons not only farmed and protected the fertile lands between the forested Carpathian Mountains, but formed guilds and became wealthy craftsmen and traders. Highly respected for their skill and talent they gained a degree of freedom previously unheard of in medieval Europe. Biertan - the Fortified Church

9 Sibiu

Sibiu - General View

SIBIU - Recently recognized by Forbes magazine as one of Europe’s Other attractions in Sibiu include Little Square (Craftsmen’s most idylic places to live, Sibiu retains the grandeur of its earlier Square), Bridge of Lies, Great Square (Piaţa Mare), days when rich and powerful guilds dominated regional trade. Huet Square, the Orthodox Cathedral, City Hall Tower. Sections of the medieval walls still guard the old historic district, The largest open-air museum in Romania -the ASTRA National founded in the late 1100s, where narrow streets pass steep-roofed Museum - is 2 miles south of Sibiu via the city tram, in the 17th century buildings with gable overhangs before opening into Dumbrava Forest. The 240-acre museum grounds contain a village vast, church-dominated squares such as the Great Square and the of more than 300 traditional dwellings, including workshops, Little Square (Craftmen’s Square). wooden churches and windmills, as well as a small hotel and Sibiu is also home to Transylvania’s finest art museum, restaurant. Every year, in August, the ASTRA Museum hosts two Bruckenthal Palace, the somewhat austere exterior of which major events: the National Festival of Folk Tradition and Art belies its rich interior and extensive art. This Palace, a fine example - where more than 350 Romanian folk artists and craftspeople of late Baroque Viennese architecture, was built in 1778 for compete in a range of traditional endeavors, from dancing to Transylvania’s Governor Baron Samuel von Brukenthal. The art cooking - and the Craftsmen’s Fair where artisans from all over collection includes paintings by Rubens, Van Dyck and Teniers, Europe demonstrate their skills and sell their crafts. Visitors can as well as works of German, Austrian and Romanian masters. actively participate in craft-making workshops. The museum also features a 16th century silverware collection, Near Sibiu lie some of the most interesting villages in Transylvania, painted glass icons and about 400 rare books, many dating to the many of which managed to keep their traditional architecture days of the first printing presses. and customs almost intact over the centuries.

Vlad the Impaler, Fact and Fiction Many visitors are probably fascinated by the legend of Count Dracula, inspired by the Romanian prince Vlad Ţepeș (Vlad the Impaler). However, the real story is being told in Elisabeth Kostova’s recent novel “The Historian”. Vlad - considered by Romanians a great hero who defended his country against the invading turks, was born in 1431 in Sighișoara. The house where he was born is today a museum of medieval weapons. A Vlad the Impaler tour may include: Curtea Domnească - Vlad’s palace in Bucharest, Snagov Monastery where Vlad is alleged to have been buried after his assassination; Bran Castle (Dracula’s Castle); the Poenari fortress and the village of Arefu (where many Vlad the Impaler legends are still told). There are tours that also focus on aspects of the fictional Dracula, such as eating the meal Jonathan Harker ate at The Golden Crown in Bistriţa, and sleeping at Castle Dracula Hotel - built on the Borgo Pass, approximately Bran - the Bran Castle where the fictional castle of the Count is supposed to be.

10 Sibiu - The Great Square Sibiu - House of the Caryatides

Located at the foothills of the Cindrel Mountains, a half- making cheese, cooking local specialties or tracking brown bear, hour drive from Sibiu, Mărginimea Sibiului is considered one wild boar and red deer in the nearby forests. of Central Romania’s most authentic ethnographic areas. The CLUJ-NAPOCA - The largest city in northwestern Transylvania, region encompasses 18 villages – among them Sibiel, Săliște, Jina, Cluj is a vibrant cultural and university center. The Main Rășinari, Gura Râului - in which century-old customs as well as Square, dotted with 18th and 19th century buildings and home the traditional occupation of sheepherding, have been carefully to many shops and restaurants, is dominated by the 15th century passed down from generation to generation. St. Michael’s Church, one of the finest examples of gothic For more than 200 years, the art of painting icons on glass has architecture in Romania. The square also encompasses the 18th been a tradition in these villages. In 1968, Father Zosim Oancea century baroque Banffy Palace, housing art collections as well as - a local Orthodox priest - founded, in Sibiel, the Museum of a weaponry exhibition. Founded in 1859, the History Museum Icons on Glass. This museum exhibits probably the world’s of Transylvania illustrates best the history of the region. Among largest collection of 18th - and 19th - century icons richly painted its more than 400,000 items are many rare books, paintings, old on glass, as well as antique furniture and ceramics. jewlery, coins, furniture and weaponry. To really soak up local culture, consider village home-stays. In Well-connected by air and rail with Central Europe, Cluj is a the last decade, some Romanian families have reclaimed and good base for the exploration of Transylvania and Maramureș carefully restored ancestral estates, and have opened guesthouses regions. Non-stop flights from Austria or to Cluj take in farming villages in mountainous Transylvania. Guests can less than one hour, while a journey by train gives travelers the take part in traditional activities: blacksmithing, milking cows, opportunity to admire the beautiful Romanian countryside.

Corvinești Castle One of the most impressive Gothic-style structures in Romania, the Corvinești Castle is located, 75 miles west of Sibiu, in . In 1445, Ioan of Hunedoara - Governor of Transylvania, Banat and Crișana - decided to transform a 14th - century fortress, established on the site of a former Roman camp, into a residence that would flount his new social status. The castle was built in several stages and completed in 1480. The beautifully preserved structure features two sumptuous function rooms: the Knights’ Hall and the Council Room, as well as a chapel and some other 50 rooms resplendent with medieval art. The courtyard features a 100 foot-deep well bored through rock. An impressive drawbridge is still the only access to this castle surrounded by 7-foot-thick, 70-foot-high walls. Nearby attractions include the ancient vestiges of the Dacian capital – Sarmisegetusa (a World Heritage site), Deva fortress, Densuș Monastery and Retezat National Park. Hunedoara - the Corvinești Castle

11 Moldoviţa Monastery

ucovina and The Painted Monasteries Be transported back in time by the brilliant blues of the frescoes, the beauty of the countryside, and the chanting of the monks. (National Geographic - Journeys of a Lifetime) BAmong the most picturesque treasures of Romania are the painted HUMOR - Founded in 1530, Humor is rather small, physically, monasteries in Bucovina. Most of the beautiful Byzantine- but it looms large among Bucovina’s treasures with a variety of influenced frescoes on the outside facades of these holy places frescoes, including one illustrating the “Return of the Prodigal were created during the 15th and 16th centuries. The frescoes Son” and one with a “humorous” depiction of the devil as a illustrate biblical scenes, prayers, episodes of sacred hymns and woman. religious or historic themes, all variously featuring the colorful and SUCEVIŢA - Set in a beautiful green valley, the Suceviţa detail-rich imagery of saints, apostles, evangelists, martyrs, angels Monastery complex is fortified with watch towers at each of its and demons. They served as visual Bible lessons for the masses four corners. The church’s walls are adorned with thousands of who could not read or remained outdoors during services. pictures - more than any of the other monasteries. The western VORONEŢ - Perhaps the most famous and stunning of these wall, however, remains unpainted, purportedly in tribute to is the Voroneţ Monastery. Its gentle, yet vivid blues (popularly an artist who died from a fall off of the wall scaffolding. The known as “Voroneţ blue”) plus the quality of the frescoes have village of Marginea, located just 7 miles northeast of Sucevita, led to Voroneţ’s billing as the “Sistine Chapel of the East”. is renowned for the black clay pottery crafted here, said to A magnificent scene of the Last Judgement covers an entire preserve a centuries-old Gaeto-Dacian technique, passed on from wall. Biblical characters, saints and even animals join people in generation to generation. procession toward the open gates of heaven. First though, they MOLDOVIŢA - The large and vivid “Siege of Constantinople” must pass the seat of judgment. Scales that weight deeds and highlights the frescoes on the walls of the Moldoviţa church. misdeeds will give the verdict. Devils vie for the damned, who Inside, 16th century furniture survives, including Prince Petru are pushed into a river of fire. Rareș’ (founder of the monastery) chair, as large as a throne. 12 Suceviţa Monastery Suceviţa - Fresco

Access - and Iași are the largest cities in the monasteries IAȘI - is the largest economic and cultural center in eastern area. There are daily flights from Bucharest to Suceava (one hour); Romania. The city was for many centuries the crossing point of train travel takes about six hours. The nearest international airport the main commercial routes linking Poland, Hungary, Russia and is Iasi, served by Austrian Airlines from New York, Washington, Constantinopole. Chicago and Toronto with a change in Vienna. The Monasteries Over the past 500 years, history, culture and religious life have can be visited in one rushed day, but two or three would be ideal. molded the city’s unique character. Iași boasts an impressive The easiest way to discover the Painted Monasteries area is by car; number of Orthodox churches, almost 100, most of them located a 30-minute drive (or less) separates one from another. in the “Golden Plateau”, representing the nucleus of the city, Gura Humorului – located just 25 miles west of Suceava - around which the entire area developed over the centuries. provides a good base for exploring both the monasteries and the One of the most famous monuments in the city is the stunning nearby villages. Trei Ierarahi Church, built in 1639. Another major landmark SUCEAVA - The town of Suceava, may be the best starting point is the neo-gothic Palace of Culture, built between 1900-1926, for a trip to the monasteries. Once the capital of (from currently housing the Ethnographic Museum, the Art Museum, 1375 until 1565) is has some noteworthy attractions of its own, and the History Museum of Moldova. In the 19th century, such as the Princely Court, built in 1388. Today, visitors can tour Iași was one of the most important Eastern European centers the remains of the impressive fortifications and take in a great of Jewish learning. World’s first Yiddish-language newspaper, view of the city. Other sights in Suceava include the St. George Korot Haitim, was founded in Iași. Also in Iași the world’s Church, Mirăuţi Church, the Zamca Monastery and a number first professional Yiddish-language theater was opened in 1876. of museums dedicated to the woodcraft, ethnography, history and The Great Synagogue of Iași, founded in 1671, is the oldest folk art of the region. The Bucovina History Museum displays surviving Jewish prayer house in Romania and one of the oldest medieval armor, coins, weaponry, tools and ancient documents. synagogues in Europe.

The History of Voroneţ Voroneţ Monastery, located near the town of Gura Humorului in southern Bucovina, was founded in 1488 by Stephen the Great - the ruling prince of Moldova to fulfill a pledge to Daniil, a hermit who had encouraged him to chase the Turks from . After defeating the Turks, Stephen erected Voroneţ in less than four months on the very spot Daniil had his small wooden hermitage. Daniil became the monastery’s first abbot and was eventually made a saint. Voroneţ’s exterior paintings were made in 1547. It remained a working monastery until the start of Habsburg rule in 1785, and only became a religious retreat again after the fall of communism in 1991.Visitors can easily chance on a Romanian Othodox service with nuns singing in response to the chanting of the priest. Voroneţ is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Voroneţ - Fresco

13 14 15 Maramureș - Wooden Gate aramureș - A Living Museum This region in northwestern Romania is home to many villages where century-old traditions are still part of daily life. The inhabitants of this area have preserved, to an amazing extent, the rural culture and crafts of their ancestors. MTHE WOODEN CHURCHES - As it has for hundreds of years, Most of these houses of worship have stood proudly since the social life in Maramureș continues to revolve around the village 17th and 18th centuries - some even longer. The oldest wooden church. The Wooden Churches in Surdești, Plopiș, Rogoz, church in Maramureș is the Church on the Hill in Ieud, which Ieud, Poienile Izei, Bârsana, Budești and Desești – have been dates from 1364. recognized by UNESCO as some of the most important sites of CARVED WOODEN GATES - Woodlands still account for world heritage. They are unique in shape and ornamentation, more than four-fifths of the land surface of Maramureș and wood and make a powerful impression through their distinct, vertical has long been - and continues to be - the medium of expression and firm architectural lines. The characteristic high roofs and tall, for the region’s artisans. The towering Maramureș wooden gates, narrow, pointed steeples are often collectively described as “the often compared to triumphal arches, are the calling cards of the Gothic style of Maramureș”. local wood carvers. Supported by four columns, they feature traditional ornamental motifs, including the sun and the twisted The primary wood material used by the artisans who built them rope - both symbols of life and continuity. Some of the most was local oak, which has survived the elements with sturdy beautiful wooden gates are found in the villages of Vadu Izei, elegance until today. The interior walls of the churches were Desești, Giulești, Budești, Sârbi, Bârsana and Oncești. The painted by local artists, with biblical scenes often juxtaposed villages of Bârsana and Oncești have, perhaps, the greatest against the familiar landscape of the village. number of impressive gates. 16 Traditional Hat Maramureș - Christmas Carolers

SIGHETU MARMAŢIEI - While the main tourist activities in Maramureș has eight museums, 67 historical sites and monu­ Maramures are gate-, church- and people-viewing, the town of ments, over 360 outstanding architectural treasures, and 14 urban Sighetu Marmaţiei also has a few attractions worth visiting. The and rural historical zones that are virtually living museums. The outdoor village museum, on the road into town, boasts dozens of area’s mountains and valleys teem with greenery and wildlife. homes and farm buildings assembled from around Maramureș county. Other attractions include the 16th century Reform For a one-of-a-kind experience, take the narrow-gauge steam Church, the Museum of Ethnography, and the Memorial of the train. Starting from the small logging town of Vișeu de Sus, Arrested Thinking, located in a former communist prison in the the steam railway runs along a scenic road for about 30 miles, center of town. chugging behind an old steam engine. The train provides the Access to Maramureș - The easiest way to visit the Maramureș only access – other than walking – to settlements higher up in area is by car. Baia Mare and Satu Mare - with direct rail links the valley. During stops, you can watch workers load firewood with Bucharest, Brașov, Cluj and - are the best starting and take on water from clear mountain streams. On the trip back points for a trip to Maramureș. There are daily flights from down in the evening, the engine driver whistles for brakemen Bucharest and Timișoara to Satu Mare, as well as from Bucharest to stop the train- sometimes to pick up or drop off passengers, to Baia Mare. sometimes to stop to pick wild mountain mushrooms.

The Merry Cemetery Here am I, Husar Ion Lying under this cold stone Everyone called me handy And maker of the best plum brandy So begins one of hundreds of epitaphs carved into blue cross- shaped oaken headboards at the Merry Cemetery of Săpânţa. No “rest in peace” or “beloved husband” here. Instead, first- person verse that endeavor to capture essential elements - both the good things and the imperfections - of the deceased’s life. Sapanta’s colorful, 5 foot tombstones, feature geometric designs in symbolic colors: yellow for fertility (the subject has many children), red for passion, green for life, black for early death. The Merry Cemetery is one of the very few in the world which draw more visitors than mourners... The townfolks’ ancestors considered death as a beginning not the end. Therefore the background is always blue, the color of hope and freedom. Even without benefit of translation, visitors will appreciate the handiwork of sculptor Stan Ion Pătraș, who began carving these epitaphs in 1935. Săpânţa is a 20-minute drive from Sighetu Marmaţiei, one of the region’s principal cities. The Merry Cemetery - Tombstone

17 Delta Nature Resort Danube Delta - Pelicans

he Blue Danube, Green Delta and Black Sea 670 miles of the Danube River run through Romania and before ending its journey at the Black Sea the Danube forms one of the most spectacular wetlands in the world, The Danube Delta. The Danube offers visitors a unique means to sample the delights of Romania as part of a multi-country cruise. TRomanian ports of call on Danube river cruise itineraries Constanţa has a number of Roman vestiges and historic may include, from west to east: buildings that color the Ovidius Square and Old City Center. An impressive collection of artifacts from Greek, Roman, THE IRON GATES - This narrow gorge that separates Romania and Dacian-Roman civilizations is on display at the National from Serbia offers some of the most breathtaking natural History & Archeology Museum. Nearby the museum you can scenery. admire the 6th century colorful mosaics at the Roman Edifice ORȘOVA - The Saint Ana monastery affords a panoramic view complex, along with vestiges of the Roman public baths. of this picturesque Romanian town. Other attractions include the Art Museum, the Romanian TURNU SEVERIN - Highlights include the ruins of a 1,900 Navy Museum, the St. Peter and Paul Orthodox Cathedral, year-old Roman bridge and the city’s archeological museum. the Catholic Cathedral, Aquarium and Planetarium. Take a stroll along the waterfront promenade and take in the GIURGIU - A jumping-off point for excursions to Bucharest, view of the old city from the Genovese Lighthouse built in this town is worth exploring in its own right. Passengers can visit 1300. Enjoy lunch or dinner by the sea at the elegant Grand the remains of a medieval fortress and marvel at the 300 year-old Casino. Open-air restaurants and nightclubs in nearby Mamaia stone clock tower. offer a wide variety of entertainments. Day trips from Constanţa OLTENIŢA - This town, also a point of disembarkation for a include visits to the nearby Murfatlar vineyards & cellars or short short drive to Bucharest, offers scenic forest vistas. excursions to the Danube Delta. Bucharest is about three hours TULCEA - Tulcea is the gateway to the Danube Delta, where the - by train or by car - west of Constanţa. Danube separates in three arms which flow into the Black Sea. Danube Delta: A Natural Heritage Site BLACK SEA RESORTS - Romania’s Black Sea coast features miles of fine-sand beaches dotted with resorts as well as numerous Considered to be the world’s third most biologically diverse medical spas known for alleviating arthritis, rheumatism and area - after Australia’s Great Coral Reef and Ecuador’s other ailments. Eforie Nord and Mangalia spas specialize in Galapagos Archipelago - the Danube Delta has been mud baths as well as in world famous Gerovital and Aslavital recognized by UNESCO for its outstanding universal value. rejuvenation treatments. Its tree-fringed lakes, reed islands, marshes and oak forests CONSTANŢA - An ancient metropolis and Romania’s largest are home to over 5,400 animal and plant species. This seaport, Constanţa traces its history some 2,500 years ago. remote, roadless wilderness has a unique end-of-the-world Founded by the Greek colonists from Millet in the 6th century feel and will enthrall bird-watchers with opportunities to B.C., Tomis was conquered by the Romans in 71 B.C. and spot more than 300 species of migratory and permanent renamed Constantiana by Roman Emperor Constantine the birds - including eagles, egrets, vultures, geese, cranes, ibises, Great in honor of his sister. Constanţa flourished during the cormorants, swans and pelicans. The Delta’s waters teem Genovese merchants domination of the Black Sea (13th century) with some 160 kinds of fresh- and salt-water fish as well. but the city declined in the 15th century under Turkish rule. Fine Location – south-eastern Romania; mansions, hotels and the casino were built in the 19th century when King Carol I decided to revive Constanţa as a port and Size – 1.68 million acres; seaside resort. Nearest cities – Tulcea, Galaţi, Brăila, Constanţa.

18 Slanic Moldova Mud Treatment pas - for Natural Healing One third of Europe’s known mineral and thermal springs are located in Romania, a country with a long tradi- tion of applying the healing power of water. The first spa in the country - Băile Herculane - was founded by the ancient Romans more than two millennia ago. SToday, over 70 medical-spa towns not only provide a OCNA SIBIULUI massage that feels good for 20 minutes but also treat- Mud packing, aerosol treatments and salt water baths in lakes ment and relief for rheumatism, arthritis and ailments created after several salt mines had been inundated, have been of the endocrine, kidney, liver, respiratory system, heart, used here successfully in the treatment of rheumatic, dermato- stomach and nervous system. logical, endocrine and gynecological affections, as well as in the Therapeutic mud, thermal waters, ionized air, “Mofettes” (natural treatment of asthma. sources of carbon dioxide) and various types of mineral waters, EFORIE NORD and MANGALIA are successfully applied for medical use including alkaline (con- taining magnesium and sodium sulfate), sulfurous (with alkaline Spa-loving travelers can soak up the benefits at sulfurs), acidic (with a high content of carbon dioxide), ferrugi- Romania’s world-renowned Black Sea Coast resorts and medical nous (with iron carbonates) and radioactive. spas in Neptun, Eforie Nord and Mangalia. The unique cura- tive qualities of mud extracted from nearby Lacul Techirghiol, Romania’s best-known spa towns include: combined with sea water, offer relief from degenerative and in- BĂILE FELIX flammatory rheumatism and arthritis as well as from internal and Established in the 18th century, Băile Felix is located in the north- nervous disorders. western part of the country, close to the border with Hungary. Many spa hotels in Romania offer rejuvenating treatments with Gerovital and Aslavital - two original anti-aging drugs discov- The thermal oligomineral waters found here, supplemented by ered in the early 1950s by Romanian physician Ana Aslan. sapropelic (mud), are used to treat degenerative rheumatism, Gerovital can improve cell metabolism and it is believed to joint and inflammatory afflictions. relieve many mental and physical afflictions usually associated BĂILE HERCULANE with aging: arthritis, migraine, Parkinson’s Disease, atherosclero- sis, sickle cell anemia, senility, failing memory, muscle fatigue and Located in southwestern Romania, Băile Herculane is sur- rounded by spectacular mountains which are part of Domogled varicose veins. National Park. Famous figures such as Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius, Ger- man poet Goethe and Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph visited Băile Herculane where the thermal waters are effective in reliev- ing afflictions of the locomotor system, peripheral nervous sys- tem and degenerative rheumatism. SOVATA Located at 1,600 ft. above sea level, Sovata features the only he- liothermal lake in Europe - Lacul Ursu. The mineral waters here are particularly prescribed for treatment of gynecological and ste- rility afflictions. In the nearby underground salt mine of Praid a spa offers treat- Thermal Water Treatment ment of afflictions of the respiratory system, such as asthma.

19 Arad - City Hall Oradea - City Hall Timișoara - the Union Square rișana and Banat - Historic Gateways to Europe Though not as well known as Transylvania, Bucharest or Bucovina, Western Romania nonetheless is worth exploring for the serious traveler. The country’s history-rich provinces of Crișana and Banat are steeped in age- old cultural traditions and a diverse architectural heritage. TIMIȘOARAC - The charm of this city, settled on the bank of the The city’s main cultural attractions are: the Banat Museum Bega River, lies in its distinct architectural character and vibrant (art, natural history, and ethnography), Museum of Fine Arts, cultural life. It is the abundance of Secessionist architecture that Village Museum, Timișoara Philharmonic, Opera House and has provided Timișoara with its rather appropriate moniker, Marionette Theater. “Little Vienna.” A progressive, cosmopolitan place, the city is ARAD - Straddling the Mureș river and occupying parts ofTimisoara both - Liberty Square home to year-round musical and theatrical performances, art Crișana province and Banat, Arad traces its history back to the galleries, museums and a buzzing nightlife. Timișoara was the 12th century. Churches and cathedrals span four centuries, several first city in Europe and second in the world after New York, to denominations, and architectural styles ranging from baroque to use electricity to illuminate its public streets. neoclassic. The exciting architecture of the buildings in the city’s Places of historical note include the Ruins of Timișoara Fortress, square reflects the influence of the one-time Austrian-Hungarian City Hall Cenad Palace , Dicasterial Palace, Old City Hall, Palace of rule; most notable are the and . Other sites of interest include a fortress originally built by the Turks in Justice as well as churches of several denominations, a Jewish 1550, the Palace of Culture, Administrative Palace, Palace of quarter baroque square , an elegant , and a pedestrians-only Justice and State Philharmonic House. downtown area. ORADEA - Oradea - eight miles east of the Romanian / Hungarian border - is one of the most picturesque towns in Natural Wonders western Romania, as well as an important cultural center. At the Western Romania is also a great place for active travelers and turn of the last century most of the town’s old houses were rebuilt adventure seekers, with abundant opportunities for trekking, and customized to the then-trendy Austrian architectural style mountain climbing, hunting, fishing, horseback riding and called “Secession” with its richly decorated facades of pale pink, more. blue, green and white. Crișana and Banat have exquisite natural scenery with Sites worth visiting are the Episcopal Palace - home to the a climate similar to that of the Mediterranean. The Bihor Museum of the Cris Rivers County - a beautiful Baroque building Mountains, descending from east to west, hold some of the modeled in 1770 after the Belvedere Palace in Vienna, the Old best hidden treasures of Romania; explore their cave tunnels, Town, the City Hall, the Black Eagle Palace and Cetatea Oradea underground waterfalls, lakes hidden from the day light, , a fortress built in pentagonal shape. silent forests, mysterious intermittent springs, canyons and There are over 100 religious sites of different denominations in glaciers. Oradea, including three synagogues, the biggest Baptist Church in Eastern Europe and the Cathedral of the Orthodox Diocese Travelers into caving or spelunking should check out the (Biserica cu Lună) - featuring an astronomical clock which depicts region’s caves, including Chișcau - also known as “Bears’ Cave” the phases of the moon. - west of the Bihor Mountains. Named after the fossil traces of the cave bear-species (extinct 15.000 years ago) discovered Oradea is only 5 miles northwest of Băile Felix (Baths Felix) which here it also has stalactites and stalagmites in unusual shapes, are home to numerous thermal springs and medical spas that focus on treatments that cure rheumatism, arthritis and neurological some resembling animals and castles. problems.

20 Veal Tenderloin Smoked Shank with Sauerkraut

ining and Dining the Romanian Way “…I go to the butcher in the morning and buy steaks by the yard,” mused Constantin Brâncuși, the world-famous Romanian sculptor. Romanians love meat, so grilled or spit-roasted pork, chicken, beef or lamb are in great demand, served with potatoes and vegetables. WOn the Menu: Wines and Vineyards: A typical Romanian meal may begin with Romania’s climate and soil are hospitable an appetizer of cheeses, cold cuts and vegetable spreads - and to the production of many different types of wines, from dry, continues with one soup and one or two entrees. sparkling whites to rich, aromatic, purplish reds. The most popularsoups are meatball soup (“ciorbă de perișoare”), Romania is currently the world’s ninth largest wine producer. Timisoara - Liberty Squaremeat and vegetable soup (“ciorbă ţărănească”) as well as tripe Popular domestic varieties include Fetească, Grasă, Tămâioasă, soup (“ciorbă de burtă”), a traditional hangover helper. Crâmpoșie, Băbească, Frâncușă but Romania also produces its share Traditional fish dishes include “ciorbă de pește” (fish soup), of worldwide vintages, including Riesling, Merlot, Sauvignon “saramură” (grilled carp in brine), “nisetru la grătar” (Black Sea Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Muscat Ottonel. sturgeon steak) or “scrumbie la grătar” (grilled mackerel) Whether you travel in Romania along the coast of the Black Sea or Entrees vary by region and they may include: in the Painted Monasteries area or along valley slopes of the scenic * Tocaniţă or Tochitură (meat stew with onions and/or spices) Carpathian Mountains or in Transylvania you’re in wine country. * Sarmale (pickled cabbage leaves stuffed with meats, and rice) For the traveler interested in adding viniculture to a cultural * Mititei (”The Wee Ones” - small skinless grilled sausages) travel itinerary, a trip to Romania offers many opportunities to visit wine-producing regions and to discover and sample the Desert choices include papanași (cottage cheese donuts, topped many different wines of Romania, from little known local and with sour cream and fruit preserve), or clătite cu brânză (crepes regional wines to Romania’s great wine labels, such as Cotnari, filled with cottage cheese and raisins). Dealu Mare, Jidvei, Murfatlar and Odobești among others.

Romania Restaurant Tips Your Guide to a few Romanian native wines: * Prices listed on restaurant menus are per serving and include Frâncușă - A very versatile soft, dry wine, crisp and lively, all taxes and service charge. However, some restaurants with just the slightest touch of sweetness. might post prices per 50 grams or 100 grams (1.75 oz. or Fetească Albă - Semi-dry white wine, well balanced, with 3.5 oz.) while the actual serving can be up to 300 grams (12 a distinct aroma reminiscent of the first flowering in the oz.). If not stated clearly on the menu, check with the waiter vineyard. and make sure to be specific when ordering. Tamâioasă Românească - A white wine with subtle honey and * Salad is usually a side order which comes with most entrees. basil aromas and exquisite amber color. Its sweet taste may also suggest a blend of rose petal and wild berries. * Typically each food item is ordered (and charged for) individually, right down to the bread and butter. Grasă de Cotnari - A naturally sweet white wine with a delicate fragrance and a smooth interplay of fruitiness and acidity. * Your glass of water or soft drink will probably not be served Fetească Neagră - Semi-sweet, medium bodied, light red wine, with ice unless specifically requested. with original aromas. A very tricky wine which changes on * Most restaurants do not have a non-smoking section. your palate as it transforms to a delectable dry finish. * While it is customary to tip, the amount is up to your Babească Neagră - Traditional full bodied red wine with a discretion. delicate bouquet and a slight taste of clove.

21 Sample Itineraries for Visiting Romania On the pages that follow are some ideas for itineraries. 2. Discover Walachia Use them as is or as a guide to creating your own. Itinerary: Bucharest - Targoviște - Curtea de Argeș - Brașov - Some of these will be easiest by car. Sinaia - Bucharest Starting from Bucharest: Duration: 5 days Best way of transportation: car 1. Bucharest and Southern Transylvania Day 1: Bucharest Itinerary: Bucharest - Sinaia - Brașov - Sighișoara - Sibiu Explore Bucharest, the capital of Romania. Overnight in Duration: 5 days Bucharest. Best way of transportation: train or car Day 2: Bucharest - Târgoviste - Curtea de Argeș (118 miles/ 191 km) Drive to Târgoviște and visit the Princely Court (the authentic Dracula’s Castle). From Târgoviște continue to Curtea de Argeș to visit the 16th century Curtea de Argeș Monastery (Mănăstirea Curtea de Argeș) and the 14th century Princely Court (Curtea Domnească). Overnight in Curtea de Argeș. Day 3: Curtea de Argeș - Câmpulung - Bran - Brașov (81 miles/ 131 km) From Curtea de Argeș to Bran, drive over the Carpathian Mountains (through Bran-Rucăr Pass). Visit Bran (Dracula’s) Castle. Spend a night in a private farm and enjoy homemade cheeses and grilled lamb pastrami or continue to Brașov (16 miles northeast). Day 4: Brașov Stroll around Brașov’s medieval section and learn about the city’s rich history. Overnight in Brașov. Day 5: Brașov - Sinaia - Bucharest (103 miles/ 166 km) Return to Bucharest via Sinaia, where Peleș Castle, former summer residence of the Royal family, awaits. Wine enthusiasts can stop in the town of Azuga for lunch and wine tasting at Day 1: Bucharest Rhein Cellars. Explore Bucharest, the capital of Romania. In the evening enjoy a concert by George Enescu Philharmonic Orchestra or travel 3. Bucharest and the Painted Monasteries to Valea Călugărească, one of the top Romanian wine regions. Itinerary: Bucharest - Suceava - Sighișoara - Brașov - Sinaia After wine tasting and dinner return to Bucharest. Duration: 5 days Day 2: Bucharest - Sinaia - Brașov (103 miles/ 166 km) Best way of transportation: car or train and car Drive or take the train to Sinaia and visit the Peleș Castle. Built in 1883, Peleș Castle is a masterpiece of German Renaissance architecture. The smaller Pelișor Castle features a unique collection of Viennese furniture and Tiffany glassware. Continue straight to Brașov or from Predeal take a 25 miles detour to the village of Bran to visit the 14th century Bran (Dracula’s) Castle then continue to Brașov. Overnight in Brașov. Day 3: Brașov - Sighișoara (72 miles/ 116 km) Sightseeing in Brasov. Highlights include: the Council Square, the beautiful Saint Nicholas Church, Brașov Fortress, Franciscan Monastery. Do not miss the Black Church whose name is attributed to a fire set in 1689 by disgruntled invaders unable to breach the city’s walls. Ever since, the church and its red-tiled roof have been ash-stained. For a panoramic view of Brasov and the surrounding Carpathians Mountains take the cable car to Postavarul Peak in Poiana Brașov. Day 4: Day-trip to Sibiu (110 miles/ 178 km) Sightseeing in Sibiu. Highlights include: Craftsmen’s Square, Huet Square and Evangelical Church, Bridge of Lies, Goldsmith Square, Great Square, Orthodox Cathedral, Roman Catholic Day 1: Bucharest to Suceava (282 miles/ 455 km) Church, City Hall Tower. Take an afternoon train/ drive back to Sighișoara or continue to Brașov. Overnight in Sighișoara or in Travel from Bucharest to Suceava - by express train (6 hours) Brașov. or by car. Overnight in Suceava or in Gura Humorului. There are also non-stop flights from Bucharest or from Day 5: Return to Bucharest (175 miles/ 282 km) or continue Vienna (Austria) to Iasi (90 miles southeast of Suceava). your journey to the Painted Monasteries in Bucovina.

22 Day 2: The Painted Monasteries (108 miles/ 175 km) Museum of the Criș Rivers, housed in a 1770 Baroque palace. Visit the unique monasteries of Bucovina: Voroneţ, Suceviţa, Overnight in Oradea. Moldoviţa and Humor (car rental or tour/ transportation Day 5: Oradea to Budapest (Hungary) (155 miles/ 250 km) arranged locally). Take the train to Budapest and explore the capital of Hungary Day 3: Return to Bucharest or Vienna or discover the traditional villages of Maramureș (please see Travel to Suceava or Iași for your flight back home or continue itinerary #9). to Bucharest on land, crossing Transylvania: Starting from Cluj-Napoca: The Painted Monasteries – Sighișoara (182 miles/ 294 km) 5. Transylvania’s ‘Siebenburgen’ Take the scenic route to Sighișoara via Bicaz Gorges. En route to Sighișoara stop in Corund and visit the local pottery workshops. Itinerary: Cluj - Sighișoara - Brașov - Sibiu - Cluj Overnight in Sighișoara. Duration: 4 days Best way of transportation: car or train Day 4: Sighișoara - Brașov (72 miles/ 116 km) Sightseeing in Sighișoara, one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Europe. Spend the day seeing the sights, such as the Clock Tower, Church on the Hill, Scholars’ Wooden Staircase, Venetian House, Hermann Oberth Square. Travel to Brașov (train or car). Overnight in Brașov. Day 5: Brașov to Bucharest (103 miles/ 166 km) Take the train or drive to Bucharest. En route to Bucharest stop in Sinaia to visit the Peleș Castle. 4. Bucharest to Budapest (Hungary) Itinerary: Bucharest - Brașov - Sighișoara - Cluj - Oradea - Budapest Duration: 5 days Best way of transportation: car or train Day 1: Bucharest - Sinaia - Brașov (103 miles/ 166 km) Travel from Bucharest to Sinaia and visit the Peleș Castle. Continue to Brașov and see its Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance buildings, among other sights. Overnight in Brașov. Day 2: Brașov - Sighișoara (72 miles/ 116km) Travel to Sighișoara; see one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval Day 1: Cluj-Napoca - Sighișoara (100 miles/ 162 km) towns. Overnight in Sighișoara. In Cluj-Napoca, visit the Art Museum, housed in the 18th century Banffy Palace, to view collections of weaponry and Day 3: Sighișoara - Cluj-Napoca (100 miles/ 162 km) Romanian paintings dating from the Middle Ages. Sightseeing: Travel to Cluj-Napoca. Discover the city’s architecture. Old Town’s architecture, the Ethnographic Museum of See paintings dating from the Middle Ages housed in the Transylvania, St Michael Cathedral, the Botanical Gardens. 18th-century Banffy Palace. Learn about the region at the Drive/ take the train to Sighișoara. Overnight in Sighișoara. Ethnographic Museum of Transylvania. Overnight in Cluj- Napoca. Day 2: Sighișoara - Brasov (72 miles/ 116 km) Discover Europe’s best preserved medieval town. Spend the Day 4: Cluj-Napoca - Oradea (95 miles/ 153 km) morning seeing the sights, such as the Clock Tower, the Guild Drive or take the train to Oradea, a city known for its Art Tower; Venetian House, Antler House, Scholar‘s Wooden Nouveau architecture. Visit the “Church with Moon” and

Rules of the Road Getting Around by Rental Car Minimum driving age is 18. Car is the best way to explore the Romanian countryside. It U.S. and Canadian driver’s licenses are valid for driving in allows visitors to reach remote areas and take advantage of Romania. myriad photo opportunities they’ll find even during short drives. A hired car will save you a lot of time when visiting Driving is on the right side of the road. attractions such as the Painted Monasteries in Bucovina and Passengers in the front seat of a car must wear seatbelts at all the traditional villages in Maramures. When renting a car in times. Children under 12 years of age must ride in the back seat. Europe, please check with the car rental company about its Speed limits are 50 km/h (31 mph) in build-up areas, 90 km/h policy regarding taking the car across national borders. (56 mph) on main roads and 110 km/h (70 mph) on highways Independent travelers entering Romania by car (own or abroad unless posted otherwise. rental) need to obtain a road toll badge, called RoVigneta. The use of cellular phones while driving is prohibited. RoVigneta is available at any border-crossing point, postal office and most gas stations. Avoid fines by buying thetoll Driving while under the influence of alcohol is a criminal badge at the border. Romania’s major roads are safe and well offense and penalties are severe. maintained. The Romanian Automobile Association (ACR or In case of a car accident do not leave the site, call the police and Automobil Clubul Roman) offers 24 hour roadside assistance. make sure that you get a copy of the Police Report. Call: (021) 222 22 22 or visit www.acr.ro

23 Staircase, Church on the Hill, Hermann Oberth Square. Have latter known as the “Sistine Chapel of the East.” Overnight lunch in the house where Vlad Ţepes (Dracula) was born. Travel at a hotel in Gura Humorului or in one of the many B&Bs to Brașov. Overnight in Brașov. (Pensiune) in the nearby towns. Day 3: Brașov - Sibiu (87 miles/ 141 km) Explore Brașov’s outstanding old town built by Saxons in 1400s. Travel from Brașov to Sibiu (train, bus or car). Overnight in Sibiu. Day 4: Sibiu - Alba lulia - Cluj-Napoca (104 miles/ 168 km) Visit Sibiu’s Bruckenthal Palace and its rich art collections. Other attractions in Sibiu include Little Square (Craftsmen’s Square), Bridge of Lies, Goldsmith’s Square, the Orthodox Cathedral, several centuries- old churches and the City Hall Tower. Visit the nearby traditional village of Sibiel. Return to Cluj-Napoca. Starting from Timișoara 6. Western Romania’s Architecture Itinerary: Timișoara - Arad - Oradea - Timișoara Duration: 3 days Best way of transportation: car or train Day 1: Timișoara A walking tour of Western Romania’s largest city starts in Day 3: The Painted Monasteries Area - Iași Union Square (Piaţa Unirii), a grand square built in Viennese Return to Iași. Iași is often overlooked by many visitors but the style flanked by colorful 18th and 19th century buildings. The city continues to be one of Romania’s most important cultural Freedom Square (Piaţa Libertaţii) offers a great display of 19th centres and home to the country’s first university. century architecture. The town’s main gathering place is Victory In 1565, Iași became the capital of the historic province of Square (Piaţa Victoriei), lined with cafes, bookstores and shops. Moldova and for a short period of time, from 1859 until 1862, - Timișoara was the first European city to introduce horse- the capital of Romania. Iasi is among the very few cities in the drawn trams (in 1869) and electrical street lighting (in 1889) world which have more than 100 Orthodox churches. - The Metropolitan Cathedral was built on a swamp and it has 5000 oak supports underneath it. Starting from Budapest (Hungary) or FROM Day 2: Timișoara - Arad - Oradea (102 miles/ 165 km) VIENNA (AUSTRIA) Travel to centuries-old Arad to see some impressive turn-of-the- century buildings, such as the neoclassical City Hall (1876), 8. Hiking, Caving and Rural Life in Central the Palace of Culture (1913) and the Red Church. Do not miss Romania the Roman Catholic Church, with its Baroque interior; and the Itinerary: Budapest (Hungary) - Cluj - Câmpeni - Cluj - Oradea imposing Orthodox Cathedral. On Revolutiei Boulevard there - Budapest is an Art Gallery exhibiting furniture from the 17th century on. Duration: 4 days Continue your journey to Oradea. Overnight in Oradea. Best way of transportation: car or train and car Day 3: Oradea - Timișoara (102 miles/ 165 km) Day 1: Budapest - Cluj-Napoca (250 miles/ 403 km) Spend the day in Oradea, one of the most picturesque towns in Leave Budapest in the morning, travel to Cluj. Approximate western Romania. Discover the city’s “Sezzession” architecture. travel time: one hour by plane, six hours by car or eight hours Return to Timișoara or continue northeast to Maramureș, one by train. Overnight in Cluj. of Romania’s most unique, traditional, rural areas. Day 2: Cluj-Napoca - Câmpeni (69 miles/ 111 km) Rent a car in Cluj and take the scenic drive to Campeni, via Starting from Iași Lake Fântânele. Drive (2 hours) through great mountain scenery and quaint villages. Sightseeing and hiking in the area 7. The Painted Monasteries (Apuseni Mountains). Overnight in a bed and breakfast in Itinerary: Iași - The Painted Monasteries - Iași Câmpeni, Albac or any other village in the area. Duration: 3 days Day 3: Câmpeni - Scărișoara - Cluj-Napoca Best way of transportation: car (94 miles/ 151 km) Day 1: Iași Explore Scărișoara Cave (elevation 3,950 feet), home to one of Fly in from Bucharest or from Vienna or take the express train the largest underground glaciers in Europe. Return to Cluj (2 from Bucharest to Iași and rent a car. Drive to the centuries- hours by car) or travel to Oradea (3 hours by car) where you old Cotnari vineyards. Take a wine tasting tour and try some will spend the night. You may also choose to spend a second of Romania’s finest sweet white wines: Grasa de Cotnari, night in the Apuseni Mountains and prepare your next day visit Tamâioasă and Fetească Albă. Enjoy dinner in a monastery to the Bears’ Cave (Peștera Urșilor). and a Byzantine vocal concert by students at the Theological Day 4: Cluj-Napoca or Oradea - Budapest Institute of lași. Overnight in lași. (250 miles or 155 miles/ 403 km or 250 km) Day 2: Iași - The Painted Monasteries Area Return from Cluj or from Oradea to Budapest or, if you chose Drive northwest to Gura Humorului and discover the Painted to extend your stay, explore the Bears’ Cave. Monasteries of Bucovina. Visit the three best-preserved 15th Travel to Oradea (3 hours by car). century monasteries: Moldoviţa, Suceviţa and Voroneţ, the

24 9. The traditional Villages of Maramureș 10.The Danube Delta – Europe ’s Everglades Itinerary: Budapest - Oradea - Satu Mare - Maramureș villages A boat ride into the sunset, wine tasting at a monastery lost in Duration: 4 days time, a fishing trip with the locals and fresh caviar served on the Best way of transportation: car or train and car banks of Lake Samova in the Danube Delta, one of Europe’s last Day 1: Budapest - Oradea - Satu Mare (238 miles/ 384 km) unspoiled and remote wildernesses. Leave Budapest and travel to Oradea (4 hours by Itinerary: Bucharest - Tulcea - the Danube Delta train). Rent a car in Oradea or hire a local guide. Duration: 4 days Travel northeast to Satu Mare. Overnight in Satu Mare. Best way of transportation: train or car to Tulcea, then boat Sightseeing in Satu Mare: the impressive Secession buildings in Day 1: Bucharest - Tulcea - the Danube Delta (195 miles) the Great Square. Arrive in Bucharest. Transfer to Delta Nature Resort. The Delta Day 2: Satu Mare - Săpânţa - Botiza (94 miles/ 151 km) Nature Resort is an elegant and luxurious retreat, recognized After breakfast travel east to the village of Săpânţa. Sightseeing: by Condé Nast Traveler as one of the Top 10 eco-resorts in the Merry Cemetery. Continue 12 miles east to the town of the world. Sunset boat trip along meandering channels of Sighetul Marmaţiei. Discover Maramureș’ villages such as Vadul the Danube Delta while sampling local wines from the Sarica Izei, Bârsana and Botiza. In Bârsana visit the workshop of Niculiţel vineyards, such as Aligote, Fetească Regală and Pinot master wood-carver Toader Bârsan, who represented Maramureș Noir. Relaxed dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, overlooking at the 2001 Smithsonian Festival in Washington, DC. Observe Somova Lake. rural life, the traditional costumes still worn by the villagers, Day 2: the Danube Delta and the specific architecture. Overnight in a Maramureș village After breakfast, head out, by boat, to Saon Monastery. Built in 1846, this religious retreat is home to some 40 nuns who run an organic farm on the banks of picturesque Lake Parcheş. Lunch, prepared by the nuns from local organic products, at the monastery. Return by boat to the hotel, via Delta channels teaming with dozens of species of birds, including the largest colony of white pelicans in Europe. Traditional Danube Delta dinner: Caviar and fresh fish from the Danube River and nearby Black Sea. On the menu will also be the delicious local salad, Salata Dobrogeana, and Saramura, an entrée prepared from broiled carp served with polenta and garlic sauce. A selection of Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Muscat Ottonel wines from Murfatlar vineyards will be served to quench the thirst. Day 3: the Danube Delta After breakfast, explore some of the main channels and lakes of the Delta while fishing for carp, catfish, zander and perch. Day 3: Botiza - Oradea (177 miles/ 285 km) Hear the call of an egret, spot a group of pelicans lifting Sightseeing: some of the area’s wooden churches: Poienile Izei gracefully into the air or catch sight of other rare species, such - famous for its representation of Hell on its main door, Ieud - as the pygmy cormorant or the red-breasted goose. For lunch featuring the oldest church in the entire region, Bogdan Vodă sample the traditional fisherman’s soup prepared fresh in one and Surdești – the tallest wooden church in the world (steeple of the villages en route. In the afternoon, visit the Danube 160 feet high). Ovenight in Oradea. Delta Natural History Museum in Tulcea where you will learn more about the Delta, the third most biodiverse in the world. Day 4: Oradea - Budapest (155 miles/ 250 km) Overnight in Tulcea. Take the train or drive from Oradea to Budapest. This itinerary can be extended with one or two days to include Day 4: The Danube Delta - Tulcea - Bucharest (195 miles) the Painted Monasteries in Bucovina. After breakfast, departure to Bucharest for your return flight or continue your Romania Discovery Journey.

Romania by Rail How to say it in Romanian Romania’s well-maintained railway network covers practically Train Station ...... Gara / Staţie de Tren the entire country: Trains are still a popular means of travel Train ...... Tren among Romanians. They are inexpensive and have a good on- Platform...... Peron / Linia time rate. Three services are offered. The cheapest (and slowest) are Car...... Vagon Local Trains - Regional (R); faster but more expensive are the Restaurant (Car). . . . .Vagon Restaurant Express Trains - Inter-Regional (IR) for which travelers must Sleeper (Car) ...... Vagon de Dormit buy a seat assignment along with their ticket. (reserved) Seat ...... Loc (rezervat) The fastest are Inter-City Trains (IC). Berth...... Loc vagon de dormit The last two types of trains have dining cars; overnight or Departure...... Plecare long-distance trains also have sleepers. Arrival...... Sosire Train enthusiasts, be they groups or individuals, can rent one of nine steam trains that date from the 1920s and ‘30s, Connection ...... Legatura / Schimb some of which have been restored to provide a luxury travel Ticket Office ...... Casa de Bilete experience. For information on train schedules and fares, Ticket...... Bilet visit www.RomaniaTourism.com. Luggage Storage. . . . .Birou de Bagaje / Bagaje de mână

25 Essential Information Travel Formalities: U.S., Canadian and Australian visitors do not need a visa for stays up to 90 days. A valid passport is all that is required to enter Romania. There is no arrival or departure tax. Getting to Romania: Bucharest is less than two hours by plane from most cities in central Europe. Austrian Airlines offers daily connections to Bucharest, Timișoara, Cluj, Sibiu, Iași and Baia Mare from several cities in the U.S. and Canada. Delta Airlines operates seasonal, non- stop, flights from New York to Bucharest. Driving in Romania: Minimum driving age is 18. Driving is on the right side of the road. Independent motorists driving into Romania from neighboring countries need to purchase a Road Toll Badge called “Rovigneta”. ATM (Bancomat): ATMs are available Language: Romanian is a pho­netic Climate: Romania has a temperate at main banks, at airports and shopping language. Want to Say it in Romanian? climate, with four distinct seasons, similar centers. ATMs are rarely found in remote Just read all the letters in a word. to the northeastern United States. Spring areas or villages. When visiting rural A few specific letters and groups of letters is pleasant with cool mornings and nights regions it is a good idea to carry cash. need to be said with sounds familiar to and warm days. Summer may be quite Credit Cards: Major credit cards, English-speaking people: warm, with extended sunny days. Autumn including American Express, MasterCard Letter Pronunciation is dry and cool while winter can be cold, and Visa, are accepted in hotels, restaurants ă [s] (as in father / fathăr) especially in the mountains. While not and stores in the main cities. However, in â or î (as in lesson / lessân) the rule, abundant snowfalls may occur small towns or away from tourist areas e (as in tell / tell) throughout the country, from December credit cards acceptance is still limited. i [e] (as in pick /pick) to mid-February. Health: No immunizations or special j [s] (as in leisure / leijre) Hotels: Hotels and other types of health precautions are necessary. Romania ș [ƒ] (as in shoe / șoe) accommodations in Romania are has no infectious risks and there are no ţ [ts] (as in fits / fiţ) licensed and periodically inspected by poisonous insects. ce [tƒe] (as in check / ceck) the Romanian Ministry of Tourism. As ge [dse] (as in gender / gender) Water: Tap water is safe to drink. Bottled gi [dsi] (as in gin / gin) in most countries in Europe, Romanian water is inexpensive and widely available. hotels are rated by stars, from one to five, che [ke] (as in chemical) five stars being the best possible rating. Smoking: Smoking is prohibited in most chi [ki] (as in king/ ching) Hotel rankings in Romania rely heavily public places, including on planes, buses ghe [ge] (as in guess / ghess) on the diversity of facilities offered, such and some trains. Smoking is still permitted ghi [gi] (as in give / ghive) in most restaurants. Unfortunately, as an on-site restaurant or pool. However, Emergency: the number of stars may not always reflect some of those who do smoke have little consciousness of non-smokers’ comfort. General emergency phone number: 112 the level of service and attention to detail. U.S. Consulate (021) 200.33.00 Most hotels offer a breakfast buffet at no Electricity: Electrical current is 230 volts, Canadian Consulate (021) 307.50.00 extra charge. Rack rates include the sales 50 cycles. Outlets take plugs with two Australian Consulate (021) 316.75.58 tax (TVA). Local taxes (0.5% - 5%) are round prongs. A power adapter is necessary additional. for appliances requiring 110 volts. Disclaimer: The goal of this brochure isto Currency: Romania’s currency is Leu Disabled Visitors: Access for people with provide you with a general introduction to Romania. Because of changes in conditions (RON), plural “Lei”. Banknote denomi­ disabilities to Romania’s tourist facilities and circumstances some changes may occur. nations: 1, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and 500 and attractions has improved in recent lei. Coins: 1, 5, 10 and 50 bani coins (1 Therefore the accuracy of the information in years, and it is a priority. However, it is this brochure cannot be guaranteed. leu = 100 bani). Foreign currencies may be advisable to check with all service providers exchanged at banks or authorized currency prior to your visit, ensuring that they are For latest updates please call the nearest exchange offices. Larger hotels also offer able to meet your particular needs. Romanian Tourist Office or visit currency exchange services. www.RomaniaTourism.com . Romanian National Tourist Office - North America 355 Lexington Avenue, Floor 8 New York, NY 10017 www.RomaniaTourism.com Telephone: 1 212 545 8484 [email protected]

26 27 From the world to Romania. More options. More routes. One joint venture.

Through a joint venture with Delta, KLM, Air France, and Alitalia, you now have access to 9VTHUPH]PH[OLPUK\Z[Y`»ZSHYNLZ[[YHUZH[SHU[PJHPYSPULUL[^VYR;OPZNP]LZ`V\[OLÅL_PIPSP[` [VÄUK`V\YILZ[YV\[LYH[LHUKZJOLK\SL[VHPYWVY[ZHSSV]LY[OLJV\U[Y`)VVR`V\YUL_[ ÅPNO[[V9VTHUPH[OYV\NOVULVMV\YQVPU[]LU[\YLWHY[ULYZ[VKH` www.skyteam.com

28