8TH Ed TRAVEL GUIDE

LEGEND INDIAN Grand OCEAN Baie Île d’Ambre Area Maps PORT Motorway LOUIS National Road Main Road Trou d’Eau Douce Minor Road Scenic Route Curepipe Track Provincial Mahébourg Boundary MAURITIUS Chamouny Main Dam Baie du Chemin or Waterway Cap Grenier Souillac TRAVEL GUIDE MAURITIUS Citrons River

Waterfall CONTENTS Reef Practical, informative and user-friendly, the 1. Introducing Mauritius

Mountain Globetrotter Travel Guide to Mauritius VACOAS MTS The Land Highlands highlights the major places of interest, describing their History in Brief principal attractions and offering sound suggestions Government and Economy Piton Savanne Peak in The People 704 m metres on where to tour, stay, eat, shop and relax. 2. The North Cabinet Nature NR Reserve The Author The Northwest Coast PORT Rivière du Rempart Coast City Martine Maurel is a Mauritius-born French graduate, The Northern Offshore Islands LOUIS who spent some years living in Malawi. She has St Felix Town & Village 3. The East Coast and Rodrigues written a number of travel articles and books Place of The Flacq Coast Art Gallery Interest which have been very well received, including Visitor’s Northern Grand Port Coast Airport Mahébourg and Environs Guide to Malawi and Visitor’s Guide to Zimbabwe. Rodrigues Town Plans She has since returned to her native Mauritius, 4. The South and Southwest from where she still writes. Royal Road Main Road Savanne Coastal Belt Le Morne Peninsula La Paix Other Road MAURITIUS Plaine Champagne Built-up 5. The West Coast Area Petite and Grande Rivière Noire Line Building of Barracks Interest Vital tips for visitors Tamarin Bay to Flic en Flac Published and distributed by Distributed in Africa by Distributed in the USA by South of Port Louis Place of New Holland Publishers (UK) Ltd Map Studio The Globe Pequot Press Worship Best places to stay, eat and shop 6. Port Louis and Surrounds London Johannesburg, Connecticut Hospital The Capital City ST Cape Town, Durban Domaine les Pailles H Hotel Star-rated top attractions GEORGES Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanic Garden Municipal Place of Theatre Interest I SBN 978-1-78009-435-9 Detailed regional profiles 7. The Central Plateau Tourist i Information Curepipe Essential area and transport maps The Small Plateau Towns Bus Terminus Colonial Houses Park & Best tours and excursions Lakes and Reservoirs Garden 9 781780 094359

NEW HOLLAND FREE MAP PDF FOR YOUR PHONE INSIDE COVER 2/7/13 9:02 AM Page 1

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GRAND BAIE TITLES AVAILABLE Pellereau Mauritius Bombay Coin de Port Louis Trou Algarve Mallorca and Sicily Mire Fanfaron Amsterdam Menorca Singapore Merchant Navy Seeneevassen r Madras Club vie Andalucía Malta South Africa 0 300 m M2 Anquetil Syed Peer Jahal Shah a Athens Marrakech Sri Lanka Postal Museum ois X Australia Mauritius Stockholm and Cap Malheureux Immigration l ç Plaine Verte Gardens 0 300 yd a an Magon East Azores Mexico Sweden Square y Dr Sun Yat Sen r Dr E Péreybère Ro Baltic States Milan and the Sydney Grand St F dga N North Bus Jummah Pellereau r La Mosque Barbados Italian Lakes Tanzania Gaube Station uren Lo Barcelona Morocco Tel Aviv and Jerusalem ui Riv t Grand Baie Port Louis s iè Trou aux Pa re Berlin Mozambique Tenerife Waterfront st Biches Farquhar eu Bermuda Mumbai and Goa Thailand Île d'Ambre r C nt m M2 LABOURDONNAIS or Jummah Mosque e Harbour d ur la Botswana Namibia The Philippines A5 Goodlands Caudan WATERFRONT ern Entrance er a o Triolet H ie L Waterfront rd go La Paix Budapest and Naples and Sorrento Tokyo Central ua m A4 Rivière du Market do a Arsenal LE SUFFREN Namaste South Si E Hungary New York City Tunisia Rempart H D r Dr Poudre Star Cinema u W n r R Restaurant k ill e u Bulgaria New Zealand Turkey Pla e ia ue g Pamplemousses d’Or Caudan o m Q Q ce fE N sa California Paris Venice Casino u S d ew e o e . B in t m o Riv Plaine b on om w iè Canary Islands Peru Vienna Blue Penny Rogers e is u H re Balaclava n so rg L’ e Verte Rivière du Postal Museum House E o h r e Cape Town Prague Vietnam l n Le Bonne Marmite ie y i iz d ll Rempart d a oy O ir S Copenhagen and Queensland Zambia and Barclay e b a Restaurant y S Pamplemousses n l B m Nyon n e ou Ré Denmark Rhodes Victoria Falls e t Government r M2 B15 Handicraft h bo ROSE HILL . K House n Corfu Rio de Janeiro Zanzibar Centre Sir Virgil Naz s. J re National Institute Costa del Sol Rome and the Vatican Zimbabwe Terre are P Fort Adélaïde Squ D Museum & Library ne oria um Air Mauritius hi (La Citadelle) e Costa Rica San Francisco Rouge ict a p oir PORT V s House & Tourist Municipal au D La Poste D Côte d’Azur Scotland LOUIS Office MTPA Chaussée I Theatre Nicolière lle nt and Provence Seychelles de fi en Port Bon Acceuil Company lle d H Flacq Chinese a Art a CITY Crete Louis A2 Gardens M n (AMBASSADOR) ener Casino Gallery ce Croatia Town Dr Eugène Laurent Pieter itch Mgr Gonnin Cuba Both Centre de Hall Lord K Inkerman Flacq St Louis Cyprus A3 Le Pouce 823 m Belle Barracks Cathedral Delhi, Jaipur 811 m Mare B59 Chevreau Maillard Supreme and Agra Beau Court J Church Dubai e L Bassin m t n M2 av r e m Brown Sequard e r Edith Cavell co ib ff Dublin a u u u A7 Quartier Trou d’Eau p e G S Rose A7 e r Jules Koenig Egypt Militaire Douce s Immaculée Conception Flacq Police Catholic Church New Stirling Florence and Hill Line eoffroy Headquarters St Louis House G Tuscany Bambous La Ferme Quatre Barracks Florida Réservoir Bornes Île aux B6 Moka Cerfs t le Gran Canaria Flic en Flac y St Georges is P L n ou B2 m a d Greek Islands ele H ST GEORGES riè Phoenix B27 ans th sm re rlé ar O Hong Kong O B Wolmar Grande Rivière re Champ de Lort Lam Soon A3 Mt du Vacoas Piton du è D’Estaing Ibiza and Rempart Sud-Est M Chinese Temple Milieu ne TRO la ell St James Formentera Curepipe ril w Champ de 545 m IS M B Po Cathedral Mars Corneille la Iceland AM n s Lapeyrousse io he Frère Felix de Valois Racecourse ELLES S La Gaieté n c Indonesia Tamarin BAM AIN U Ro re A10 BOUS MOUNT s iv Ireland Black De Po River Pla ines Israel Dr A Vishnu Kchetra Wilhems Anse Jonchée ug Istanbul Baie de la Vieux Grand us Tamarind te Grande Rivière Port V R Sookdeo Bissoondoyal Jamaica Mare aux ol ou Noire B Falls Res. cy g LA Grand P Dr Jeetoo et Japan C Vacoas o K Port ug King Edward VII Statue R Grand Port ne Jordan IV D t E P. de Valence ‘ is R Bay Ar a Kenya G Rose Dr O. Beaugard R to n O ao is n Île aux RG Belle u T o Kraków and Poland E l er B9 S Grand Ri n d Bénitiers M2 Mahebourg ve ay De Courcy r S t u Pandit Nehru e Kruger National Park Bassin e A10 o t S b u t l Lanzarote Ja a s Île aux Aigrettes m L in A10 e g Malartic Tomb Lebanon s Gayasingh Lisbon and Portugal Le Morne Plaisance Brabant A9 INDIAN London Blue Bay Bassin M Madagascar 556 m Savanne Duclos Blanc OCEAN onseigne Le Sidaner B8 im Madeira ol S S Chamouny t Malaysia Bancilhon Gravier D Le e Rivière des n ur Leen i Maldives Souffleur N s Baie du Cap Chemin Anguilles Grenier 0 5 10 km Enniskillen B9 V a Gandhi olc y P ou Mahatm 0 2.5 5 miles R gn Souillac iv et et Harris 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 4 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 5

1 Introducing Mauritius

ike a rich green emerald, swathed in the translucent, Coin de Mire INDIAN Trou aux Grand Baie turquoise silk of the southwest Indian Ocean, Biches L OCEAN Poudre d’Or Mauritius is a small island which has only recently, since PORT LOUIS the early 1980s, made a sizeable impact on world tourism. Only 67km (42 miles) in length and 46km (29 Flic en Flac Curepipe 2 miles) at its widest point, and with an area of 1865km (720 sq miles), it is about the size of the English county of Chamouny Mahébourg Chemin Grenier Surrey, or South Africa’s Cape Peninsula and False Bay. Baie du Cap Souillac As a political entity, the Republic of Mauritius includes not only the island of Mauritius itself, set just north of the Tropic of Capricorn at 20˚S and 57.5˚E, but TOP ATTRACTIONS also the tiny island of Rodrigues some 563km (350 miles) Soaking up the sun on to the east, as well as the Cargados Carajos Archipelago a white, sandy beach. (St Brandon) and the two virtually uninhabited Agalega Water sports of every kind – islands, 400km (250 miles) to the northeast and 1000km snorkelling, diving, sailing, windsurfing and parasailing. (620 miles) to the north of Mauritius respectively. Big-game fishing in first-rate The warm climate and the blue-green sea gently fishing waters. lapping the sandy shores within the protective belt of Scuba diving amid coral the coral reef make for a tropical paradise with equally gardens and tropical fish. Nature walks – mountains, warm people whose friendliness is legendary. Indeed, gorges and waterfalls. the motto most people who know the island will Gastronomy – a rich mix of associate with Mauritius is the easy-going ‘No problem’. culinary delights; seafood plays a major part. Nothing is too much of a problem for these hospitable Shopping – especially islanders, whose roots reach back in history to India, wooden model boats, jewel- Madagascar, East Africa, China, France and England. lery, clothing and flowers. With this rich mix of cultures and a population of just over a million people, Mauritians have realized that the only viable option in the small area of this island is  Opposite: A yacht heads peaceful coexistence. past Trou aux Biches. 5 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 6

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THE LAND Mauritius owes its origins to volcanic activity. Although the volcanoes are long since dormant, they have left their mark on the profile and landscape of the island, notably in the striking forms of some of the mountain peaks in the west and in the several volcanic craters found on the island. From the north coast the land rises gradually to the highest parts of the island: once possibly the floor of a gigantic crater, the central plateau now reaches a height of 580m (1903ft) and is edged by four mountain ranges – the Moka Range encircling Port Louis, the Bambous Mountains in the east and the Black River and Savanne ranges in the southwest. From the central plain the land descends more sharply to the south coast. With the high rainfall of the interior, numerous small rivers cut through the landscape to the coast. Sugar-cane plantations once covered much of Mauritius, and while this crop is no longer the main earner of foreign exchange, rolling fields of cane are still the prevailing feature in many parts of the island.

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Although Port Louis in Île Ronde Île Plate the northwest is the capital N Îlot Gabriel of Mauritius and the centre Coin de Mire of business activity, the majority of those who Grand Baie Île work there prefer to live in INDIAN d'Ambre the relative coolness of the OCEAN Citrons LO nearby towns and suburbs NG M O PORT U N of the plateau, such as T R. du Rempart LOUIS Pieter A I cq Both N Fla Le Pouce de Quatre Bornes, Curepipe, e st Moka Po La Ferme Plaines Wilhems u Rose Hill/Beau Bassin and . d Reservoir Cascade R BLANCHE Piton du Milieu MOUNTAINS Île de Reservoir st l'Est Vacoas/Phoenix. The only Mt. du -E Piton du ud Rempart e S other sizable town is Milieu Grande Rivièr TROIS Curepipe Île aux Baie de la MAMELLES S MOUNT Cerfs Trou aux BAMBOU AINS Mahébourg in the south- Grande Cerfs Pic du Lion Rivière Noire Tamarind BLACK RIVER GORGES Mare aux Falls Res. R east; the remaining settle- Vacoas . de Mare s Cré oles ments studding the coast- Piton de la Petite Longue Res. R Mahébourg . Rivière Noire Grand d u SAVANNE MTNS Île aux Bassin Po line are largely tourist Le Morne Chamouny st Aigrettes Brabant e resorts or fishing villages. Blue Bay Baie du Chemin Cap Grenier Mountains and Rivers Souillac Not surprisingly, the moun- tains on this small island in the middle of the ocean do not rise to great heights, though many are unusual in form. FACTS AND FIGURES The highest is le Piton de la Petite Rivière Noire in the • Highest mountain is the southwest, at 828m (2717ft), closely followed in height by Piton de la Rivière Noire at the Pieter Both (823m; 2700ft), towering over Port Louis, 828m (2717ft); it overlooks with its steep shoulders surmounted by a bobble of rock. the settlement of Rivière Noire in the southwest of the island. Also rising above the capital is le Pouce, or ‘the thumb’. • Longest river is la Grande The mountains running down the western side of the Rivière Sud-Est at 34km island include le Corps de Garde, overlooking Rose Hill (21 miles) in length; it empties into the sea on the (which some say got its name from the light of sunrise on east side of the island. the mountain); le Rempart, like a small-scale Matterhorn • Biggest waterfall is the in appearance; and the dramatically steep and pointed Tamarind Falls, with a total formation of les Trois Mamelles, which no doubt earned drop of 295m (968ft), in the west of the island. its name from the udder-like shape of its three peaks. • Strangest physical feature On the southwest tip of the island lies le Morne is the coloured volcanic Brabant, the last mountainous outcrop of this rugged earths at Chamarel which are said to separate naturally region. Although not particularly high, this mountain is into seven colours when a quite dramatic with its rocky cliff face dropping away to sample is shaken. the low-lying land of le Morne peninsula. It can easily be 7 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 8

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 Above: The dramatic climbed and offers spectacular views of the southwest colours of the lagoon at Île corner of Mauritius. Le Piton du Milieu, in the centre of aux Cerfs on the east coast. the island, offers the intrepid climber a view of almost the entire island. La Montagne du Lion is a spur of the Bambous Mountains in the southeast; its form, the profile of a lion lying down, dominates views of Mahébourg. Mauritius’s island neighbour of Réunion, part of the Mascarene Archipelago, can still boast volcanic activity, CLIMATIC EXTREMES but the only obvious evidence of Mauritius’s fiery past lies in the craters of Trou Kanaka, Grand Bassin and Bassin The wettest part of the • Blanc in the south, and Trou aux Cerfs at Curepipe. island is in Curepipe which receives nearly 3m (10ft) of Grande Rivière Sud-Est, which runs into the sea rain a year. near Île aux Cerfs, is the longest of the many rivers and • The driest side of the streams that wend their way across the island; some, island is the west coast, which receives only 670mm such as the Rivière Noire or Black River, cut through the (26in) of rain annually and land to form gorges of breathtaking beauty. needs irrigation for its sugar- cane plantations. Seas and Shores • The hottest part of the island is the west coast with The 160km (99-mile) coastline is almost entirely fringed temperatures reaching daily by coral reefs, and consequently the coastal waters highs of 31˚C (88˚F) or more. mainly lie in calm lagoons. On the landward side, these • The coolest is on the central plateau with maximum are bordered by crescents of white coral sand thanks to temperatures reaching not the gradual erosion of the reefs, and casuarinas dominate more than 27˚C (81˚F). the tropical vegetation. It is only really in the south, • The windiest weather is experienced on the east where the reef drops away, that the marine landscape coast in winter. becomes less placid; here, strong currents and rocky shores render the waters unsafe for water sports. 8 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 9

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A number of small islands are dotted here and there CYCLONES just off the coast of Mauritius, among which are the unusual wedge-shaped Coin de Mire, visible from most Devastating cyclones have hit Mauritius periodically places on the northern coastline, Île Ronde (Round throughout its history. In Island) and Île Plate (Flat Island), also to the north, both 1867, a cyclone killed half of which harbour indigenous birds and flora. Some of the people of Port Louis, and 25 years later another caused them can be visited on day trips catering for scuba the loss of over 1000 lives exploration, nature study or simply, picnics. Île aux and destroyed almost all the Cerfs in the east offers 7km (4 miles) of casuarina- island’s crops. More recently, fringed coastline, making it a tropical island paradise. Cyclone Carol on 25 February 1960, with a gust speed of up Other islands of interest include Île d’Ambre, which can to 256kph (159mph), killed be visited on daily excursions, and Île aux Aigrettes, 40 people, left 80,000 home- where a visitors’ centre and nature reserve has opened. less and destroyed 70,000 buildings. Cyclone Jenny on All beaches are officially public, although access 27 February 1962 had a max- from the road to the sea is sometimes restricted where imum gust speed of 275kph hotels and private bungalows have been built. Some (171mph); Gervaise on 5 February 1975 gusted up to hotels post guards at the beach restricting entry, 278kph (173mph); Claudette although they have no legal right to do so. Most of the on 21 December 1979 accessible beaches have toilet facilities, picnic sites and buffeted the island with gusts sometimes kiosks selling snacks and souvenirs. They are of up to 256kph (159mph). The most recent cyclone, just as good as those in front of the hotels, though they Gamede, brushed the island tend to be crowded over weekends, particularly on in February 2007. Sundays and on public holidays.

Climate The seasons can be divided broadly into a hot, wet season, lasting from December to April, and a pleasantly cool, dry season from May to November, making Mauritius a year-round tourist destination. Maximum summer coastal temperatures average 33˚C (91˚F) and winters average 24˚C (75˚F) – usually about COMPARATIVE PORT LOUIS MAHÉBOURG CUREPIPE 5C˚ (9F˚) warmer than the CLIMATE CHART SUM AUT WIN SPR SUM AUT WIN SPR SUM AUT WIN SPR JAN APR JULY OCT JAN APR JULY OCT JAN APR JULY OCT higher interior. The coolest MIN TEMP. ºC 24 23 19 20 23 22 20 19 19 18 14 15 months are July, August MAX TEMP. ºC 31 30 26 26 29 28 24 26 26 24 20 23 and September, but even MIN TEMP. ºF 75 73 66 68 73 71 68 66 67 65 57 59 then the sea water is warm MAX TEMP. ºf 88 87 79 83 85 83 75 80 78 75 68 73 and most enjoyable, with a temperature of not less RAINFALL mm 165 87 20 18 282 232 135 80 328 292 194 104 than 20˚C (68˚F). RAINFALL in 7 3 1 4 11 11 5 3 13 11 8 4

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The rainy months are between January and May but rainfall is usually higher in the centre of the island. The west coast, extending from the Rivière Noire area up to Port Louis, has a hotter, drier environment than the more isolated east coast, which is blessed by the south- easterly trade winds blowing onshore and providing a welcome breeze as a respite from the summer heat. In winter, however, they are much stronger. Cyclones are active in this corner of the Indian Ocean from January through to April. Some years, cyclones miss the island altogether or are very mild, while at other times they can be devastating, destroying buildings and vegeta- tion. In February 1999, Mauritius witnessed one of the driest cyclones of all times. Although the island is vulner- able, cyclones are not an annual event. Even so, most hotels are well fortified against the ravages of cyclones, and have their own generators in case of power failure.

Plant Life Exotic and brilliantly colourful fruits and flowers thrive in the island’s tropical climate. Purple-flowering jacarandas, 60 different species of orchid, pink, red and white anthuriums, the sweetly perfumed frangipani, scarlet  Below: Coconut palms, the flamboyant, pink cassia, lilac, bougainvillea in brilliant ubiquitous tropical plant. purples, reds and pinks, hibiscus and cannas are all part of the lush vegetation bedecking the island. Among tropical fruits, bananas, pineapples and to some extent papayas can be found all year round; guavas, mangoes and litchis are more seasonal. December is the best month for fruit and at Christmas many Mauritians enjoy a pineapple, litchi and mango salad – to which some add a pinch of salt and some sliced chillis! 10 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 11

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The island’s main crop is still sugar cane, which once covered some 80% of the arable land. Over 1000 plants are indigenous to Mauritius, of which about 300 are truly unique. However, the ma- jority of the plant species were introduced on the island in the last 300 years by various settlers. The teak, ebony and colophane forests which once  Above: The sheer vibrancy covered Mauritius proved an irresistible attraction for the of Mauritius’s abundant flora. early Dutch and French colonists who overexploited the island’s arboreal heritage. Forests were also removed to make way for sugar-cane plantations. Today, indigenous forest covers less than 1% of the island’s surface and is GARDENS AND concentrated mainly in the Black River Gorges National NATURE RESERVES Park in the southwest. Some of the few remaining colo- • The Sir Seewoosagur phane trees are said to be around 1000 years old. The Ramgoolam Botanic Garden, most commonly seen tree is the casuarina, a pine-like Pamplemousses tree known locally as the filao, which was introduced in • Curepipe Botanical 1778 and planted around the coastline because of its Gardens • Company Gardens, ability to grow near salt water. It also acts as a windbreak Port Louis city centre and provides shade. Other common trees include the • Île aux Aigrettes Nature banyan or multipliant, a large, spreading tree with aerial Reserve, near Mahébourg • Balfour Municipal roots that grow towards the ground, forever seeking new Garden, Beau Bassin places to take root, and the traveller’s palm, a tree with • Le Réduit – formal garden foliage like that of the banana tree, and flowers that in a tropical setting Creole Museum, Eurêka – resemble strelitzias. • magnificent gardens with views of the waterfalls of Animal Kingdom the Moka River Mauritius’s most notable contribution to the world’s natural • Plaine Champagne and the Black River Gorges – with history gallery of extinct creatures is the dodo, whose pres- their many indigenous plants ence was first recorded by the Dutch in 1681. By 1692 and animals this large, flightless bird had been hunted to extinction. • Kestrel Valley, situated near Mahébourg – 1500ha The solitaire, a relative of the dodo, was likewise made (3700 acres) of forest- extinct by settlers on Rodrigues. Giant tortoises and turtles covered mountainside. also fell victim to the excesses of the settlers, while the 11 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 12

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Mauritian branches of various other bird families died out; the only rare and indigenous birds still in existence today and of significance to naturalists are the pink pigeon, the Mauritius kestrel and the echo parakeet. Despite this, Mauritius is richly endowed with bird life – sparrows, weaver birds, Indian mynahs, paradise flycatchers, red cardinals, various doves, and the paille-en-queue or tropic bird all abound on the island, having been introduced from other parts of the world over the last 400 years, while the coastline is frequented by several kinds of tern. The island has only one indigenous mammal – the THE DODO Mauritius fruit bat or golden bat. Monkeys, hares and The name of this large, deer also exist in the wild, the latter having been intro- ungainly bird came from the duced by the Dutch settlers in the 17th century from Portuguese duodo or deodar, meaning ‘stupid’. It survived Java, while mongooses were brought from India at the on hard seeds and grains, turn of the century to control the rats which were over- hence the shape of its beak; running the cane fields. to digest them better it would There are no poisonous reptiles on the island. The hold stones in its crop, which helped to break down tough only snakes are the couleuvre or Indian wolf snake foods. With no known pred- which was imported from India, and two species of boa ators on the island to fear, the constrictor found on Île Ronde. This small island is also dodo had no need to evolve its wings for flight, so despite home to the endemic Telfair skink. not being particularly tasty, A multiplicity of life forms exist in the clear waters it easily fell prey to the early of Mauritius. Gardens of colourful corals thrive in the settlers. Animals introduced shallow, warm waters surrounding the island, and with- by settlers further threatened the dodo population by eat- in the protective reefs live giant clams, primitive sponges ing their eggs. This had driven and anemones, gorgonias swaying in the current, and the dodos to extinction. In colourful fish of all shapes and sizes. Other curious 1865, a British naturalist dis- covered a complete set of creatures include octopuses, giant eels, urchins and bones near Plaisance, and a starfish. Damage to corals by boats, souvenir seekers stuffed exhibit is now on and dredgers is a serious problem. The reefs are home to show in the Natural History Museum of the Mauritius a vast range of other living creatures and once damaged, Institute in Port Louis. they are slow to recover – it takes a year for coral to 3 grow 1cm ( ⁄8 in). 12 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 13

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Conserving Mauritius’s Natural Heritage PLACES FOR BIRD- LOVERS TO VISIT Just north of Port Louis, at Pamplemousses, lies the Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanic Garden. Established • The Government Aviary at Rivière Noire. Tours only in 1735, the gardens form the repository of the island’s by arrangement through botanical heritage and are well known by naturalists selected tour operators. around the world. Their large collection of both • The Casela Nature and indigenous and exotic plants includes numerous species Leisure Park, on the west of the island in the Black of palm, fruit and spice trees, pandanus, mahogany and River district, featuring ebony trees, while among other animals there are some 2500 birds of 142 different resident tortoises, brought last century from Seychelles species, as well as tigers, monkeys and lions. as they were in danger of extinction there. • Kestrel Valley near The Government Aviary at Rivière Noire in the west Mahébourg to see Mauritius of the island forms part of a sponsored scientific project kestrels being fed by hand. The Mauritius Institute which aims to encourage the breeding of rare bird species • in Port Louis to see a stuffed in danger of extinction. These species include the pink specimen of the dodo. pigeon, echo parakeet and Mauritius kestrel. In 1973, a breeding programme aimed at increasing the numbers of Mauritius kestrel and supported by the Mauritius Wildlife Appeal Fund (now the Mauritian Wildlife Foundation) began operating – only just in time, as it was soon dis- covered that their numbers were down to single figures. After initial failures, the programme eventually resulted in the release of more than 300 into the wild. A similar cap-  Opposite: The endemic tive breeding programme aimed at increasing the number Mauritius kestrel, recently saved from extinction. of pink pigeons from a low of 20 was started in 1976 and  Below: The reef provides a has now met with some success. A breeding programme protective environment for all to rescue the world’s rarest parrot, the echo parakeet, kinds of colourful fish.

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from the brink of extinction has also been successful with around 540 birds in the wild in 2011. The Mauritius Marine Conservation Society was formed in 1980 to pro- mote an appreciation of marine life and an aware- ness of the need in Mauritius for this area of conservation. It seeks to create underwater parks to regenerate marine life and induce the government to enforce existing laws which control dynamite fishing, FASCINATING FACTS ABOUT CORAL spear-fishing, net fishing, shell and coral collection, aquatic pollution and the general destruction of the reefs. Coral colonies are made up of tiny, sedentary creatures The government has declared a number of offshore called polyps, which secrete islands as nature reserves in a bid to preserve indigenous limestone to form a skeleton. fauna and flora. Likewise, certain inland areas have It is these organisms which give corals their brilliant become nature reserves, such as the Macchabée-Bel colours; when they are Ombre Forest in the mountainous southwest of the closed, the coral becomes island. Much of the Black River Gorges, Bel Ombre and white or stone-coloured. Corals reproduce once a year, Bassin Blanc area within this region was declared the in a mass spawning which country’s first national park in 1994. Some mountain occurs all over the reef during areas are under government control and permission must a single night. Bundles of eggs be obtained from the Conservator of Forests (tel: 211 and sperm are released and float to the surface, where they 0554) before they can be visited. break up; the sperm seek eggs of the same species before all HISTORY IN BRIEF are dispersed by the tide. The fertilized eggs develop into Mauritius was left untouched as a Garden of Eden for planulae within a few days aeons. The first recorded discovery of the island was and sink to the bottom to take made by Arab seamen who landed there in AD975. up residence as members of Although they gave it a name, Dinarobin (‘silver the new coral colony. The age of some corals can be deter- island’), they left no evidence of their presence, and mined by ‘reading’ the dark the island was allowed to slumber on peacefully until and light bands of the skele- 1507 when the Portuguese sailor Domingo Fernandez ton. Some living corals are hundreds of years old. came across it. The island was renamed Ilha do Cerne (‘Island of the Swan’); the more romantic say that this 14 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 15

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was in honour of the ungainly land swan, the dodo, while others say the name was inspired by that of Fernandez’s boat, The Swan. Despite the island’s strategic position on the important shipping route to the East Indies, and despite introducing pigs, goats and oxen as food supplies, the Portuguese did not claim possession of Mauritius, and it was used for many years as a base by pirates.

The Dutch Presence Just before the turn of the century, in 1598, the Dutch Admiral van Warwyck stopped on the southeast coast of Mauritius en route to the spice and silk markets of the East, and named the island after Prince Maurice (Maurits) of Nassau. During the next 40 years the island was visited periodically by the Dutch (one trip in 1606 brought with it the banana tree). Eventually they appointed a commanding officer who reached the island in 1638 and  attempted to colonize it in order to exploit more system- Opposite: Some of the deli- cate artistry of the many coral atically its luxuriant forests of ebony, a resource much forms found around Mauritius. prized in Europe. A hundred slaves were imported from  Below: An old French map Madagascar, and together with prisoners brought in from showing the island in 1753. the East Indies as labourers, the population grew to over 500 from an original nucleus of 25. To improve their food supplies, the settlers brought Java deer, sheep, geese, ducks, pigeons and other animals, while another memo- rable legacy of their stay on the island at this time was the introduction of sugar cane. Obstacles faced by the Dutch in their attempt at colonization included runaway slaves bent on retri- bution, pirates, cyclones, drought, disease and meagre resources. Not sur- prisingly, these problems proved to be the downfall of the Dutch settlers, who abandoned Mauritius in 1658 in favour of the station that had been established at the Cape of Good Hope in 1652. 15 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 16

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FOUNDING FATHER By 1664, the Dutch had come to appreciate the value of Mauritius in the context of the sea route to the East Bertrand François Mahé de Labourdonnais (1699–1753), Indies and decided to recolonize. Over the next few as governor and administrator years they established a tannery and started building a of the Île de France, was road network. Less than half a century later, however, in responsible for transforming 1710, the same obstacles that had caused them to this wild tropical island into a flourishing colony. In abandon the island the first time round set the seal on addition to all his efforts their departure for a second and final time. at improving the small colony, Labourdonnais also led a team to fight against The French Influence the British in India, where he Only five years passed before the French landed on the relieved the French territory island in 1715 and named it Île de France, although it of Pondicherry and captured was not until 1721 that they actually occupied the island. Madras from the British. Despite his successes in both For 14 years thereafter, not much progress was achieved; spheres, however, he was the turning point came in 1735, when Bertrand François imprisoned in the Bastille for Mahé de Labourdonnais, known afterwards as the ‘father two years after falling out with the French governor of of the island’, was made governor. This man of vision and Pondicherry. Although even- energy restored law and order to the island and expanded tually his name was cleared and developed Port Louis into a viable port and capital. and he was released from prison, he died a broken To Labourdonnais goes the credit for the introduction of man at the age of 54. wheat and cotton and the large-scale planting of sugar cane, the construction of roads and fortifications, Govern- ment House, a hospital and houses and, in conjunction with the establishment of Port Louis as a port, the creation of a ship-building industry. Within half a century the island’s population was well established with some 60,000 inhabitants, and during this time the colony’s fortunes rose and fell under the leader- ship of the Intendant, Pierre Poivre, and the governor, François, Vicomte de Souillac respectively. Then in 1790, a mini-revolution took place on Mauritius, echoing events that had taken place in France the previous year, and there followed 13 years of self-rule, which lasted until Napoleon sent out a governor to restore law and order in the colony. During this period Mauritius experienced what could be termed the ‘golden age of piracy’. Pirates and corsairs under French protection used the island as a base for mercilessly plundering the British vessels which travelled along the shipping route to the East Indies. In 1802, the British retaliated by blockading the island. Coming after 16 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 17

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 Left: An impressive colonial plantation house, set among the sugar estates in the north of the island.  Opposite: Bertrand Labourdonnais, the French governor of Mauritius during the 18th century.

THE GOLDEN AGE OF PIRATES a century of antagonism between the British and French, Throughout the 18th century, the attack was not motivated solely by this piracy, how- ships sailing between Africa ever – the British also wished to undermine the strategic and the Far East regularly fell position of the French in the Indian Ocean in order to victim to pirates. So well safeguard their important colony of India. In August established were these high- waymen of the seas that they 1810, a fierce battle, the Battle of Grand Port, was reputedly formed a pirates’ fought in the bay of the same name in the southeast of republic, Libertalia, in the island – the only naval battle to be won by France Madagascar in 1685. With the decline of Mauritius in the during the reign of Napoleon. The British retired hurt, mid-18th century under the but just before the end of that year they launched a suc- French East India Company, cessful surprise attack on the north of the island from the pirate colony migrated Cap Malheureux. The neighbouring island of Réunion here; the French began to support the pirates to safe- was conquered the same year. guard their own vessels and prey on British ships, and Port British Rule Louis became notorious as a haven for corsairs and a The first British governor was Robert Farquhar, who very thriving marketplace for pirate generously offered the French inhabitants capitulation booty. The Frenchman Robert terms that allowed them to preserve their French laws, Surcouf came to be known as the ‘king of the Corsairs’, and customs, language, religion and property; this was formal- the British offered a reward of ized in the Treaty of Paris of 1814, whereby the British 250,000 francs for him, dead returned the island of Réunion to France but retained or alive. However, the pros- Mauritius, Rodrigues and Seychelles. At the same time the perity generated on the island by pirate activity was appreci- British gave the island its old Dutch name of Mauritius. ated by the local business Mauritius enjoyed over a century and a half of rea- community, which helped to sonably peaceful British rule; French culture continued finance him; as a personal friend of Napoleon, he also to dominate, however, and has endured to the present received the support of the day, notably in the form of the French language which is French government. spoken by most people. Under Farquhar, the country’s 17 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 18

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 Above: The monument economy developed into one based on agriculture commemorating the Battle (especially the production of sugar), roads were built, of Grand Port in 1810. and Port Louis became a free trading centre. Despite the formal abolition of slavery in 1833 in other parts of the British Empire, plantation owners in Mauritius defied the ruling and continued to practise slavery until PHILATELY 1835. This proved to be a turning point in the island’s his- Mauritius is well known tory, as the ending of slavery led to the mass immigration among philatelists as one of from the Indian subcontinent of some 200,000 Hindu and the first countries in the world to have released a postage Muslim indentured labourers. Lured by the promise of a stamp – now one of the rarest. better life, they came to work on the sugar-cane planta- Five hundred stamps of the tions in conditions which were initially not much better first issue with a value of 1d than slavery. By 1909 immigration had ceased, but the and 2d were used by Lady Gomm, wife of the governor, large Indian population was there to stay and rapidly to post invitations to a ball at became the majority group, staking its claim in Mauritius the governor’s residence, Le when universal franchise was granted in 1959. Réduit, in 1847. Instead of the words ‘Post Paid’, ‘Post Although independence was won from Britain in Office’ was mistakenly printed 1968, the island remained part of the British Common- on the stamps. A One-Penny wealth with the Queen as its head, represented by a Red and a Two-Penny Blue governor general. The first prime minister, Sir were recently acquired by a group of Mauritian business- Seewoosagur Ramgoolam, was of Hindu origin. Highly men at an auction in Geneva, regarded by many Mauritians, he held office until 1982, and are exhibited at the Blue when another Hindu Mauritian, Anerood Jugnauth, Penny Museum (tel: 210 8176, fax: 210 9243) at Le Caudan became prime minister. Mauritius proclaimed itself a Waterfront in Port Louis. republic on 12 March 1992, with Veerasamy Ringadoo as the first president. Jugnauth is currently president. 18 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 19

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HISTORICAL CALENDAR

AD975 Arabs land on the island permanently. surprise attack in December. island and name it Dinarobin. 1715 The French arrive, nam- 1814 Mauritius ceded to the 1511 Portuguese explorers ing the island Île de France. British by the Treaty of Paris. arrive, name the island Ilha do 1721 Île de France is 1835 The abolition of slav- Cirne (‘Island of the Swan’). occupied by the French. ery sees the start of a massive 1598 Dutch traders stop en 1735 Labourdonnais begins influx of Indian labour. route to the East Indies, and to transform the island. 1968 Mauritius wins name the island Mauritius. 1790 Revolution takes place, independence from Britain. 1638 The Dutch attempt to links with France cut, Maur- 1992 Republic is declared. colonize Mauritius. itius becomes a pirate retreat. 2002 Rodrigues gains 1658 They abandon the 1802 Port Louis blockaded regional autonomy. colony for the Cape of by British sailors in protest 2010 Navin Ramgoolam Good Hope. against piracy. Battle of Grand wins elections and remains 1664 The Dutch recolonize. Port is won by the French. prime minister until next 1710 The Dutch leave the The British take the island in a elections due in 2015.

GOVERNMENT AND ECONOMY The parliamentary system of Mauritius owes much to the LEADING LIGHT

British Westminster system; here, the president is the Although he trained and quali- ceremonial head of state, while executive power is held fied as a doctor in England, Sir by the cabinet, headed by a prime minister who is the Seewoosagur Ramgoolam (1900–1985) had a long and leader of the majority group in parliament. According to illustrious political career in the constitution, general elections must be held every five Mauritius. He became a mem- years. Each of the 20 constituencies in Mauritius returns ber of the Labour party in three members and Rodrigues two, while up to eight ‘best 1948, and in 1965 led the Labour Party delegation to the losers’ can be appointed for ethnic balance in the House. Constitutional Conference in Due to the ‘first past the post’ principle, candidates can London, when independence be elected with less than 50% of the votes. However, was agreed. Three years later he became the country’s first with strong bipolarization, small parties cannot hope to Prime Minister. In 1982 he see their candidates elected and this leads to political suffered his only political alliances – government by coalition is a standard feature defeat, when the MMM won the general election and of Mauritian politics. The major force in the early years of Anerood Jugnauth became Mauritian government was the Mauritian Labour Party Prime Minister; Ramgoolam (MLP), which ruled as a single party in coalitions from was appointed Governor 1947 until 1982. The election that year saw an alliance of General. A leading and well- respected figure on the island the Mauritian Militant Movement (MMM) with the for many decades, his name Mauritian Socialist Movement (PMS) taking all the seats in has been given to the airport, parliament. In 1983 a splinter party, the Militant Socialist the botanic gardens at Pamplemousses, and a num- Movement (MSM) leached members from the alliance ber of public buildings, streets and since then power has ping-ponged between the MLP and other places on the island. and MSM – each led by the second generation of powerful 19 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 20

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SUGAR political families – with smaller parties playing walk-on parts. The 2005 election was won in a landslide The sugar industry, having been such an important part victory by the Alliance Sociale, the MLP-led coalition. of the island’s economy for The Mauritian legal system is based on both French so long, has evolved into a and English law. The constitution guarantees the indepen- highly sophisticated industry. dence of the Judiciary. The island is divided into nine Crystallized sugar is certainly not the only product derived administrative districts, and Rodrigues forms the tenth. from the sugar cane plant: the residual liquid left over Economy from the crystallizing process is sold as molasses, used in Thanks to the Dutch who introduced its cultivation in cattle feed and in rum; the 1639, sugar was the mainstay of the Mauritian economy scum on the top of the liquid for years. Originally grown to provide alcohol for the is used as fertilizer; and the making of ‘arrack’, a crude drink popular with sailors, vegetable remains of the cane, left after the juice has sugar cane was later propagated widely as it was judged been extracted, is used as the crop best able to withstand the ravages of the occa- fuel, not only for running the sional cyclones. Around 80% of the island’s arable land sugar factories, but also as part of the island’s general was once planted with sugar, and the island’s fortunes electricity supply. rose and fell with those of the sugar industry. With unfavourable climatic conditions and a drop in world sugar prices, sugar is a fragile commodity. This was illus- trated in 2003 when sugar production fell short of 150,000 tonnes of the anticipated crop of 700,000 tonnes  Below: Sugar piling up and this brought a lower than expected economic growth. inside a Port Louis factory. Recent reforms within the industry include reduction of production costs and labour through a volun- tary retirement scheme and in the next few years there will only be four or five working factories. The Export Processing Zone (EPZ), introduced in the early 1970s to encour- age production of goods for export to other islands in the region, provided thousands of jobs and investment opportunities. Mauritius has expanded its horizons and promotes 20 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 21

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itself as an offshore banking centre. A stock exchange was established in 1989, Port Louis has been transformed into a free port, and plans to transform Mauritius into a ‘cyber island’ are almost complete with jobs being created within the Information and Communication and Technology (ICT) sectors. Tourism has been a mainstay of the economy for a couple of decades with most visitors arriv-  Above: Cane fields cover ing from Europe. The industry plans to expand on the vast reaches of the Mauritian countryside. back of a positive image in the luxury market by attracting high-spending visitors from China, India and the UAE.

The Export Processing Zone When the sugar boom of the 1970s lost its sparkle the Export Processing Zone concept started gaining ground to create some diversity in an economy that was far too dependent on only one crop. Established in 1970 as much to absorb a burgeoning labour force as to attract foreign investment, the EPZ succeeded in rapidly reduc- ing unemployment from a high of 25% in 1983 to full employment in 1990. With so many jobs available, the FOREIGN INVESTMENT country had to import foreign workers, with some 10,000 Foreign investors can take coming into the country in 1994. Textile companies have advantage of generous always dominated the EPZ and Mauritius became the financial incentives such largest exporter of knitwear in the world with textiles as exemption from tax and customs duties, as well as overtaking sugar as the main export. Today the EPZ is the freedom to repatriate undergoing substantial restructuring as producers turn to capital and dividends. more profitable management and production policies in Further investment incentives include relatively cheap fabric production. Hi-tech spinning mills are being set up trained labour and a stable and faced with increasing competition from mass produc- political environment. tion regions such as China, the textile industry today suc- 21 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 22

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THE DAWN OF TOURISM ceeds on its short lead in times and flexible production runs. Jin-Fei, a Chinese-funded expo-park at Riche Terre For Mauritius’s first tourists, conditions were a far cry from (which will provide more jobs), is due to break ground in what they are today. Michael 2013, and the island has secured several lucrative call- Malim, in his book, Island of centre contracts thanks to its investment in a state-of-the- the Swan (1952), describes the art telecommunications infrastructure. ‘hotel’ he is faced with after receiving the disheartening warning, ‘We don’t exactly Tourism cater for tourists’: ‘On the face The third largest employer and supplier of foreign of it there was little to suggest that anyone had lived there for exchange is tourism, which has, however, proved to be a years. The place was simply a double-edged sword. In its infancy during the 1950s, tour- large, wooden barn perched ism only took off towards the end of the 1970s and on a stone platform about five became well established during the economic upswing of feet high. It was more or less white, though much of the the early 1980s. However, the government recognized the paint had flaked away. A tin dangers of overdeveloping the tourism industry and put a canopy, supported by rusty halt to further hotel development in 1990. The moratorium iron stanchions rising from an iron balustrade, sheltered the only lasted until 2003, but it allowed the authorities to verandah which ran the whole focus on long-term aims. Plans for large, luxury resort width of the building. In hotels and Integrated Resort Schemes (IRSs) were places it was sagging away from the façade. There was an announced in that year. appalling sense of despair Although large numbers of visitors place heavy about the whole contraption... demands on the island’s resources, annual tourist It seemed to long to slither arrivals in 2007 amounted to around 900,000 people. from its platform into the jungle of weeds and shrubs about it, During the world financial crisis starting in 2008 num- and disintegrate there into a bers suffered a small decline, but the Mauritius govern- heap of mouldering timber.’ ment plans growth in visitor numbers of around 10% annually until 2015. To keep Mauritius an excusive des- tination, charter flights are not permitted.

Agriculture Back in the days when Mauritius exported only agricultural products, tea was its second currency earner after sugar. Still grown in the highlands around Curepipe, tea is strongly subsidized for social and political rea- 22 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 23

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sons. It lacks a strong flavour, however, and is used in RAILWAY WALK blends with the more flavoursome teas grown in other countries at the higher altitudes necessary for such A train service ran in Mauritius for almost 100 years. One line flavour. Some tea sold locally is flavoured with vanilla connected Port Louis with the pods, lending it a distinctive perfumed taste. plateau towns and Mahébourg Cultivation of tobacco, which at one time was in the southeast, then headed round to Souillac on the south Mauritius’s third most important crop, has not shown coast, while another traversed much promise as a developing economic activity. On the northern sugar fields and the other hand, flowers, especially anthuriums, as well ran down the east coast to as tropical fruits such as pineapples, mangoes and Grande Rivière Sud-Est. Although the service as such litchis are now being exported, and their contribution ended in 1964, the railway to the country’s foreign trade has increased significantly lines and bridges remain intact during the last decade or two. in several places, making excellent routes for walks in The fishing industry is divided between small-scale the countryside. fishermen and commercial fishing enterprises. Despite concerns about over exploitation, the Mauritius govern- ment has invested heavily in port facilities for industrial processing by local and foreign fleets. Aquaculture is a new focus and a fledgling industry. Although the island is  Opposite: The highly self-sufficient in poultry and pork, and there is some cattle rated Royal Palm Hotel.  production on local estates, most meat has to be imported. Below: The drama of fishing on the reef, with fishermen poling their Infrastructure wooden boats around Although fairly extensive, the road network in Mauritius another generous catch. is generally confusing to most visitors. Originally built to pro- vide access to the cane fields, the road grid’s seemingly hap- hazard design makes it fairly easy to get lost and some roads remain private property. Relatively recently the govern- ment made a concerted effort to resurface and build new roads across the island. In built-up areas, the lack of a pavement creates further dangers. In 2011 major work was completed on widening the fast two-lane high- way (M1) into four lanes north of 23 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 24

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Mapou to Grand Baie. It runs from Plaisance in the southeast through the cen- tre of the island to Port Louis in the northwest and Grand Baie in the north. There is no railway and plans to introduce a light railway system are ongoing. More recently construction began on a road circling Port Louis to ease traffic congestion, due for com- pletion in 2013.  Above: A view from the The natural harbour at Port Louis has been enlarged sea of Port Louis harbour. to include five deep-water quays, two fishing quays and three lighterage quays. It includes a container terminal as well as terminals for handling bulk sugar, oil, wheat and cement. The government established Port Louis as a ‘free port’ as part of a strategy to develop the island as a regional trade centre in the Indian Ocean. Air Mauritius, the national carrier, operates a fleet of Airbus A340-300s and 319s, ATR 72s and Bell Jet Ranger helicopters. Its air network extends to Europe, India, the Far East, Australia and various cities in Southern Africa.

THE PEOPLE Because of the limited size of the island, the population explosion on Mauritius has been keenly felt. At the end of 2011 the population was over 1.28 million. This has resulted in an extremely high population density and growing unemployment due to lay-offs in the textile and manufacturing industries and the lack of qualified people available for jobs, which are now being adver- tised in the information technology market, as the country strives to promote itself as Cyber Island. The uneven concentration of people in the centre of the island could give one the impression, when driving around the coastal plains, that the vast tracts of agricul- tural land imply low population density. Many parts are 24 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 25

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isolated, with few pedestrians on the roads. But with a population density estimated at 671 people per square kilometre (1597 per square mile), Mauritius is actually the fifth most densely populated island nation in the world. The migration of the population to the central plateau started in the early 1860s when people fled to the uplands to escape a malaria epidemic in Port Louis. A second wave of migration took place only a few years later, when people sought to escape the coastal ravages of cyclones as well as malaria and cholera epidemics; the opening of the railway at the same time (closed 1964) also contributed to the rapid urbanization of the interior in the 1860s. Today, the cooler temperatures of the interior are a major attrac- tion for permanent residents, and while over 150,000 people live in the capital and commercial centre of Port Louis, some 30% of the population live in Curepipe and the other dormitory towns of the central plateau.

Traditional Cultures Mauritius is a veritable melting pot embracing a diversity of cultures, something on which its people pride them- selves. The largest cultural group is made up of people with Indian roots, and broadly speaking, comprises Hindus originating from northern India (the largest ethnic grouping), Tamils from southern India, and Muslims from western India (who form the smallest part of the group). TAXI-TRAINS While the Indians arrived after the ending of slavery in Taxi-trains or share-taxis are 1835 to work on the sugar plantations, the Creoles owe less common these days but part of their ancestry to the first slaves who were imported occupy the gaps in the mar- from Madagascar and possibly the east coast of Africa. The ket left by taxis and buses. Basically communal taxis, arrival of the Chinese, mostly from Canton, dates from these operate on more or after 1826. Most Europeans are of French descent and less standard routes (with stem from the settlers who arrived during the colonization a few detours), especially of the island by France. Franco-Mauritians have remained where buses are not very frequent. The fares, split prominent in the sugar industry and are still the largest among the passengers, are landowners. Some have successfully invested dividends comparable to bus fares. from this agricultural capital in the industrial sector, while To catch a taxi-train, simply flag down a regular taxi and for others, their fortunes are on the decline as a result of find out whether it is for pri- their dwindling numbers and thus their fading influence. vate or communal use. Middle-class Indo-Mauritians work mostly in the civil 25 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 26

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service, though today the best trained among them are employed in the private sector. The community of Chinese origin is a very dynamic minority, with a high percentage of trained professionals. Owners of small retail shops 50 years ago, the Sino-Mauritians have taken a prominent place in the main sectors of economic life today.

Language English is the official language, but while it is a com- pulsory subject at school and the language of govern- ment and business, not everybody feels comfortable speaking it. French is much more widely spoken and is dominant in the media, although it is mother tongue to  Above: This Creole woman only a small proportion of the population. epitomizes the colour and The language spoken most by Mauritians, however, is vibrancy of the tropical island. Creole (or Kreol). Originating as the common tongue among slaves of differing origins, and between them and the colonists, the lingua franca of the island is based largely on French with elements of English, Hindi, Chinese and Malagasy. It is a picturesque language, humorous and very pliable, and unstandardized in grammar and spelling alike. Despite its widespread use, however, it is neither taught in school nor recognized officially. Bhojpuri, a language from northern India which is linked to Hindi, is spoken by many Indo-Mauritians. With generations of French influence it has diverged from the Bhojpuri spoken in India, and lacking prestige, it appears to be on the wane, losing popularity to Creole. Hindi itself is used for official purposes, such as broad- casts, but it is not widely spoken as a home language. To a lesser extent, various other Indian languages are in use, as well as Hakka, Mandarin and Cantonese.

Education Schooling is free from nursery level through to university, but is only compulsory from the age of three to sixteen. The literacy rate, at over 80%, is one of the highest in the developing world. Further practical training is pro- vided by various organizations, and the annual intake of the University of Mauritius is always on the rise. 26 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 27

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Religion LANGUAGE TIPS With 87 denominations on the island, religion plays a major part in the island’s cultural activities. Numerous English • Creole Hello • Bonzour churches, mosques, pagodas and temples exist, some- How are you? • Koman times within very close proximity to each other, bearing ou ete? testimony to the remarkable level of religious and cul- Fine thanks • Mon byen, mersi tural tolerance. The largest religious grouping is made Goodbye • Orewar up of Hindus who account for 48% of the population, Please • Silvouple followed by Christians (mainly Roman Catholics) at Thank you • Mersi 32%. Islam is the next most popular religion practised How much is this? • Kombyen i ete by 16% of Mauritians, and Buddhism the fourth. I don’t understand • Mo Mauritians enjoy complete freedom of worship, and pas comprend their faiths are expressed in the many festivals held No problem • Pena problème each year. Accommodating the holy days of the various Alright • Correc religions, Mauritius once enjoyed the dubious distinc- Not alright • Pas correc tion of having the most public holidays in the world! Do you have...? • Ou ena...? These days, however, the public holiday list has been trimmed from a generous 30 to a more viable 15. With the large number of festivals, visitors may well be lucky  Below: The symmetrical enough to witness the celebrations of one of the faiths. flourishes of one of Port Tamil Hindus practise the exotic rituals of fire-walking, Louis’s colourful Chinese sword-climbing and tongue-piercing on certain festival pagodas. days. Mauritian Muslims are largely Sunnis but the Shiite practice of body chastisement during the Ghoons festival remains. Cavadee, one of the most spectacular of the Hindu festivals, takes place in either January or February and is preceded by 10 days of prayers and fasting. A wooden arch or cavadee, decorated with flowers and with pots of milk hanging from each end, is carried to the temple. Beforehand, pen- itents insert skewers and 27 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 28

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 Above: A Tamil Hindu hooks into their cheeks, tongue, chest and back. The pilgrim, his skin and mouth more devout, in a state of trance, are even able to pull pierced with needles, carries a cart attached to these hooks. a cavadee as part of the celebration of the same Just as incredible to the Western eye is the Hindu name, held in late January ritual of fire-walking, also known as Teemeedee, or early February. which takes place at Tamil temples in the late after-  Opposite: These wooden noons between October and March. Devotees, dressed structures, decked in bright flowers, are a central part of in yellow and pink, use the ritual as a means of asking the Cavadee procession. for pardon and offering thanks for favours. A bed of hot coals is prepared and a goat’s neck is slit so that its blood can be poured around the coals to keep out bad spirits. Only those who are scrupulously clean both inside and out can take part; the worshipper must therefore fast, pray and meditate for at least 10 days beforehand and take a ritual bath just prior to the act. Some mothers carry their babies across, and even children participate in the ritual, encouraged by the chanting of supporters, the sound of trumpets and beating of drums as well as the heady odour of incense and camphor. As participants leave the embers, they dip their feet into a basin of milk. 28 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 29

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Other Hindu festivals include Diwali, the festival of SPIRITS AND SORCERY lights, which celebrates the triumph of good over evil Once used to describe a with lights and firecrackers, the sharing of cakes with charm or talisman, the term friends, and the offering of fruit, sweets and flowers to gris-gris has become more Laksmi, goddess of wealth; Maha Shivaratree, one of vague and generalized to the biggest festivals on the Hindu calendar, which denote magic and witchcraft in varying forms, and involves a pilgrimage to Grand Bassin for ritual cleans- people’s belief in spirits. ing (its waters are said to be connected to those of the Brought across to Mauritius sacred Ganges River in India); and Holi, feast of fire and by the early African slaves, gris-gris was outlawed by the colour, at which an effigy of the wicked Holika is burnt European settlers, and to symbolize the triumph over evil. The latter is also remains illegal. Despite this, celebrated with fountains of coloured water – tourists it still has some influence on the behaviour and religious who get too close will get wet! In India, Ganga Asnan practices of the Creoles on involves immersion in the Ganges for purification; in the island, and witchdoctors Mauritius, Hindus go down to the sea or to Ganga Talao or longanists continue to lead (Grand Bassin) for an equivalent ceremony. a covert existence, consulted in the hopes that they can As well as the usual holy days, Mauritian Christians solve all sorts of problems. celebrate the festival of Père Laval on 9 September. On Memories of it linger on in the anniversary of this saint’s death, thousands of the names of the village of Gris Gris on the south coast Mauritians and even people from further afield converge and Ville Noire (‘Black on Sainte Croix, Port Louis, to pray at his tomb. Masses Town’) near Mahébourg. are held continuously from 16:00 the day before until midday. On All Souls’ Day Christians flock to cemet- eries to place flowers on the graves, and prayers are said for the salvation of the dead. The ritual washing of graves demonstrates African influences. Eid-ul-Fitr marks the end of the fast of Ramadan for the Muslims, who also celebrate Ghoons, a festival commemorating the mar- tyrdom of Mohammed’s nephew, Imam Hussein. It bears some similarity in form to the Hindu Cava- dee; a decorated bamboo 29 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 30

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structure or ghoon is carried through the streets of Port Louis while participants, their cheeks, tongue and skin pierced with needles, inflict various forms of torture on themselves in repentance. However, Ghoons is no longer widely celebrated. Visitors to Mauritius may be interested to see the colourful Chinese New Year or Spring Festival celebrations. Homes are  Above: A dragon costume decked out in red, firecrackers are let off to drive away is fitted in preparation for evil spirits, and special foods are prepared. The Dragon the Chinese New Year Dance is a highlight, performed at sunset by eight or festivities – to the amuse- ment of the onlookers! more people wearing a dragon costume with a colourful and ornately decorated mask. The tourist office can supply interested visitors with the dates on which religious rituals and festivals are to take place, as many of them vary from year to year.

The Séga The obsessive beat of the séga has its roots in Africa, and PÈRE LAVAL no doubt the dance was brought across to Mauritius (and other Indian Ocean islands) by the slaves. Historical After qualifying in France as a doctor, Père Laval became records indicate that this erotically suggestive Creole a missionary in Mauritius in dance was evolved as a means of bemoaning hard work- 1841, at the age of 38. Over ing conditions; slaves met on the beach at night around a the next 23 years, his work fire, where supplies of rum assisted their emotional out- with the poor and outcast, slaves and lepers was much pourings. The tone and direction of the séga was deter- appreciated by thousands of mined by the beating of a goatskin drum called a Mauritians. He was, how- ‘ravanne’ accompanied by a small triangle and a con- ever, resented by some in the ruling classes, although tainer of dried peas or small stones, the ‘maravanne’. his countless good deeds and Dressed in vividly coloured skirts, the women weave his missionary work were flirtatiously in front of the men with much swaying of finally recognized by his hips. A solo singer supplies the story (usually in Creole) beatification by Pope John Paul in 1979. while a chorus echoes the refrain. The tempo slowly increases and, with the dancing becoming more and 30 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 31

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more provocative, the mood is trans- FESTIVALS AND HOLIDAYS formed from one of gentle melancholy to a frenzy of passion, before eventually dying Nov–Mar • Fire-walking (Hindu – Tamil) 1/2 Jan* • New Year down again. The players traditionally per- 1 Feb • Abolition of Slavery Day form in front of an eager audience who Jan/Feb* • Cavadee (Hindu – Tamil) encourage them with the clapping of Jan/Feb* • Spring Festival/New Year (Chinese) Feb/Mar* • Maha Shivaratree (Hindu) hands and the stamping of feet and by Feb/Mar • Holi (Hindu) joining in with the chorus. 12 Mar* • Independence Day In response to tourist demand, the Mar/Apr* • Ougadi (Telegu) séga has become more and more com- Mar/Apr • Easter (Christian) 1 May* • Labour Day mercialized over the last couple of Aug/Sep* • Ganesh Chaturthi (Hindu – Marathi) decades; some say that today it is a far 9 Sep • Père Laval (Christian) cry from the original dance form. Many Oct/Nov* • Diwali (Hindu) 1 Nov* • All Saints’ Day (Christian) • Ganga hotels organize a weekly show for their Asnan (Hindu) guests which can prove to be highly 2 Nov • Arrival of the Indentured Labourers Day enjoyable as they are invited onto the 25 Dec* • Christmas Day (Christian) dance floor by the travelling séga troupe Muslims celebrate Eid-ul-Fitr and Eid-ul-Adha to learn the simple steps. Under the light according to the Islamic calendar, subject to the phases of the moon. of the moon with the waves gently * public holidays lapping at the nearby shore, the beat of the séga is marvellously evocative.

Sport and Recreation As a warm, year-round destination with  Below: A display of séga calm, turquoise, coral-belted lagoons, dancing taking place in one Mauritius is certainly a water sport play- of the island’s hotels. ground. Scuba diving, snorkelling, windsurfing, sailing and big-game fish- ing are among the wide range of activities catered for on the island, many of them by the big hotels as well as by independent organizations. Out of the water, Mauritians are par- ticularly fond of soccer, and basketball and volley- ball are growing in pop- ularity. Although jockeys 31 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 32

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DIVE SIGHTS are mainly South African, horse-racing draws huge crowds to the Champ de Mars in Port Louis each The more experienced diver can tailor a diving holiday to Saturday during the winter months. take in shelf dives, wreck No matter their level of proficiency, locals and dives, night dives and diving holiday-makers alike enjoy diving and snorkelling in the trips to nearby islands. Some veritable fairyland of coral gardens found along many of the exotic fish divers come across are parrotfish, thick- parts of the coast. With surface water temperatures out- lipped groupers, wrasses, side the reef ranging from 22˚C (72˚F) in August and sweetlips, angelfish and September to 27˚C (81˚F) in March, and with higher squirrelfish, boxfish, trumpet fish and clown fish. Colourful summer temperatures in the lagoons within the reef, a sponges, corals, sea anemones wetsuit is not necessary for dives to a depth of 20m and fan worms adorn the (66ft). Visibility near the reef is at its best in the winter, marine underworld. Divers but for offshore dives, summer is a better time, as the may take the opportunity to explore numerous wrecks from warm waters attract an abundance of fish. Most diving the 18th and 19th centuries, as schools, whether independent or allied to hotels, are well as those that have been affiliated to the Mauritius Scuba Diving Association deliberately sunk in recent times to create artificial reefs. which sees to it that international diving standards are adhered to, in terms of both instruction and the equip- ment supplied. Beginners can take their first diving lessons in some hotel swimming pools, progressing to shallow sea dives if they show ability within a few  Opposite: Pleasure cruises, lessons. If you are qualified, remember to bring your water-skiing and sailing are diving certification as proof of your abilities. just some of the many water Diving facilities are usually charged for by the hotels, sports available on Mauritius.  Below: Scuba diving on the in contrast with most other water sports, such as snorkel- reef in the company of a ling. If you bring your own snorkelling gear, make sure clown fish. you also bring protective footwear and gloves to guard against injury from sea urchins and a few other nasties. The use of spear guns is strictly prohibited, as is the removal of any live or dead coral or shells from the lagoon or reef. If diving and snorkelling don’t appeal to you, many hotels have glass-bottomed boats which take guests out for a more leisurely examination of the reef. 32 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 33

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NASTIES OF THE REEF

Spines from certain types of sea urchin can be very hard to remove once embedded in your foot, and sometimes result in infection. If this does happen and you are not able to rely on hotel medical facilities, first see if you can tap the knowledge of a local fisherman to help you extract the spine correctly, otherwise you will need to see a doctor. In the shallows and near the reef, other dangers include the lethal stonefish, easy to tread on as it lies motionless on the sandy bottom with just its eyes showing. Wear rubber water shoes in the Surfing is best at Tamarin Bay on the west coast, and water to avoid treading on more recently kitesurfing has become popular. urchins and stonefish, and Mauritius has earned itself a name for big-game don’t touch any creature you fishing among anglers around the world, and indeed are unsure of. Certain live shells of the cone family can has held world records in several categories. The best inflict painful stings, some of fishing grounds lie off the west coast, where fish may be which may be fatal if not caught less than a kilometre (about half a mile) offshore treated promptly. The slow- moving red-and-white- during the summer months. Fully equipped boats can striped lionfish has pois- be hired from the hotels, and if you wish, a professional onous fins and should be taxidermist will mount your catch and later ship it to avoided. Happily, shark you anywhere in the world. attacks are almost unheard of inside the lagoon, although The centre of sailing activities is Grand Baie. Many sharks are found outside it. hotels here and at other resorts on the island have small sailing craft such as Lasers, available free of charge for use within the sheltered lagoon areas, and some will even provide free basic instruction in sailing. Others have catamarans available for use by their guests. Private yacht charter for day trips and excursions of several days is available through local travel agents; trips can be organized to offshore islands as well as to Réunion. The competitive sailing season is during July and August when the southeast trade winds are at their strongest; depending on demand, the Beachcomber Crossing from Mauritius to Durban, South Africa, takes place in August. 33 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 34

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 Above: Taking the plunge: For a breath of fresh air, there are a number of divers preparing to explore excellent places for walking, hiking and climbing. The the wonders of the reef. Most most interesting walk is to the top of Pieter Both mountain of the large hotels offer diving instruction and will arrange overlooking Port Louis, although it is more demanding excursions. than most and should be done with the help of a profes- sional guide; rock-climbing is also possible here. Other walks, including le Pouce, la Montagne du Rempart, le Piton du Milieu, les Trois Mamelles, le Corps de Garde, le WHEN PLANNING A WALK Morne and la Tourelle de Tamarin, are not so taxing and generally take about half a day. Plaine Champagne pro- Equipment needed is usually vides a cooler and potentially easier place to walk, while only a pair of good walking shoes, raingear and a ruck- Yemen on the west coast is a good place for an easy sack for water and food. ramble which doesn’t involve negotiating mountains! Yemaya Adventures in Most of the large hotels have good all-weather tennis Calodyne, Grand Gaube welcomes inquiries from vis- courts, often with spotlights for use at night-time; equip- itors (tel: 752 0046, www. ment can be hired. There are a number of golf courses yemayaadventures.com) on Mauritius, mostly located at the big hotels. If you are Often, permission to climb not staying at a hotel with a golf course, you can still mountains must first be obtained from the Conservator play after paying an entry fee. If you intend to play of Forests, Botanical Garden much golf, consider bringing your own clubs. The main Street, Curepipe, (tel: 211 competition, the Mauritius Commercial Bank Open, is 0554) as many of the moun- tains are government land. held in December each year at Belle Mare Plage and is Occasionally, permission must open to professionals and amateurs. be obtained from private There are two horse-riding clubs on Mauritius which landowners whose land must provide jumping and dressage lessons. The Club be crossed before the moun- tain can be ascended. Hippique de Maurice in Floréal allows temporary mem- bership, while the Ecuries du Domaine, at Le Domaine 34 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 35

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les Pailles near Port Louis, can arrange lessons for groups PÉTANQUE of tourists and nature trails on horseback. In a less formal setting, various small stables at Chamarel, Black River and Tourists may enjoy watching a game of pétanque, a Mon Choisy provide horses for tourists. French variation on bowls. Hunting has been practised in Mauritius since deer were A marker ball is thrown on introduced from Java in 1639. The numbers hunted and a course without boundaries, following which the players killed in any season are strictly controlled to maintain a attempt to get their ball healthy and balanced population of over 70,000 animals. nearest the jack. This gentle Deer-hunting takes place in reserves on the west and east game, which requires no special skill except reason- coasts from June to September. At other times of the year, able hand-eye coordination, wild boar, guinea fowl, quail, partridge and hare may be is a popular amusement hunted. Local tour operators are able to organize day, over- among Mauritians. night and weekend hunts. Kestrel Valley in the southeast is an area which is especially reserved for hunting purposes; here one can hunt all year round. Gambling has become a popular tourist attraction with casinos at the coastal resorts of Trou aux Biche in the north and Flic en Flac in the west. The capital has a casino on the Caudan Waterfront and the Casino de Maurice at Curepipe and Domaine les Pailles lie inland. You must be over 18 to play and some casinos prefer that you have your passport with you. Spas have been the biggest growth market in recre-  ation in the last decade. Mauritius has some excellent Below: A holiday in Mauritius provides a golden examples at the major hotels – establishments usually opportunity to try out all kinds backed by a European cosmetics house such as Clarins of water sports in the relative or Givenchy. Smaller independent establishments can be safety of the lagoons. found in the major resorts. Therapies include massage, facials and body treatments.

Food and Drink Mauritius is a delight for anyone who wishes to try a variety of culi- nary treats. Reflecting the country’s diverse cultural heritage, Mauritian dishes are derived from French, Creole, Indian and Chinese tradi- tions, all of which have evolved to take advantage of local delicacies. 35 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 36

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HEART OF PALM Rice is the staple diet of many Mauritians, although it has to be imported. It is also the main feature of Creole An entire tree, which takes four years to grow big food and, along with side dishes such as brèdes (a type of enough, must be sacrificed spinach), chutneys and pickles, it is usually served with a to obtain its edible ‘heart’. curry, rougaille, fricassee or moulouktani. The latter, Palm plantations exist solely whose name has the same root as the word ‘mulliga- to satisfy the culinary demand for this delicacy tawny’, is a curried soup made with small crabs and which has existed since the pieces of meat. Rougaille is made of tomatoes and onions Dutch occupation. Only a sautéed with thyme, garlic, ginger and chilli (although the third of the heart (about 1.8kg; 4lbs) can be eaten. local version is made with the smaller pommes d’amour in It must be quickly taken place of tomatoes), plus a meat or seafood ingredient such from its protective fibrous as sausage, salted fish, shrimps and prawns. Brèdes is a sheath before the centre is bouillon made with the leaves and shoots of certain veg- cut out in a bath of milk and water: this way, the ivory- etables, while vindaye combines vinegar, garlic, saffron coloured flesh is shielded and other spices in the preparation of fish and meats. from oxidation and dis- Indian cuisine centres mainly on curries and their side colouration is prevented. It is then cooked in the milk dishes; biryani (pronounced breyani), a delicately spiced mixture. Its texture, once meat dish with a yoghurt-based sauce, is another cooked, ranges from crisp to favourite. Snacks such as poppadoms, samosas (often soft (but not limp). The taste is subtle and delicate and spelled samoosas) and chilli bites are often available the heart should never be from street stalls. Traditionally, spices in Indian dishes prepared with strong spices are crushed each day on a rock in the back yard, called a and condiments. roche carri, so their full flavour is imparted to the food. Chinese cooking traditions too remain faithful to their roots; familiar dishes such as pork fooyong and sweet and sour fish are common. The Chinese also eat sea urchins and sea cucumbers, sausage-like creatures which are often seen in the shallows. Top of the list of local delicacies are smoked marlin, which tastes somewhat like smoked salmon, and heart of palm, which is either boiled or eaten raw in a ‘million- aire’s salad’. Venison and wild boar, along with smaller game, are offered at many restaurants and are definitely worth trying. Octopus, prawns, shrimps, oysters and crabs crown a selection of tasty local fish that have intriguing names: vieille rouge (‘old red’), capitaine (‘cap- tain’), and sacréchien (‘sacred dog’). Notable for their novelty value as much as for their refreshing flavour, carved pineapples (served lollipop-style on the fruit’s stalk) are often sold by vendors and on the beaches. 36 1-Intro Mauritius 2/8/13 10:47 AM Page 37

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Visitors in hotels are usually treated to a tame ver- MARKET FARE sion of the spicy Mauritian cuisine. For the real thing, sample a few of the numerous excellent restaurants Gateau piment: fried dholl mixture containing chilli dotted around the island. The more adventurous can try Gateau bringelle: eggplant the fare offered by the many roadside stalls in Port fritters Louis and some of the larger towns – as opposed to the Bhajias: fried spicy batter Gateau patate: fried mixture snacks sold by beach vendors, these stallholders offer of sweet potato and coconut more substantial food such as fried Chinese noodles, Dholl puree: thin pancake biryani or curry and rice. If you are staying in self- spread with a tomato sauce. catering accommodation, try asking your cleaning lady to prepare your meals; remember to give her some advance warning so she can tell you what to buy. Fishermen on motorbikes call round in the morning selling freshly caught local fish. Alternatively, try the local débarcadère (fish-landing jetty) where fishermen bring in their catch. Mauritius is self-sufficient in its production of many alcoholic drinks. Most popular is the thirst-quenching Phoenix beer and its stronger companion, Blue Marlin. You can enjoy all the international brands of spirits at bars  Below: The best of on the island, though at a price premium when compared Mauritian fare. to locally produced brands. Wine is imported. Oxenham and Company is a Mauritian company that produces wine from imported concentrated grape juice, and excellent South African, French, Italian and Australian labels can be found on most wine lists. A range of local spirit drinks, such as rum (one variety, Green Island Rum, is exported), whisky, brandy, vodka and cane, is also available. In addition to the usual soft drinks, some local non-alcoholic specialities include yoghurt-based drinks like lassi and alouda, a syrupy streetside special made of milk, a gelatinous substance called Top Alouda, and flavouring. Finally, don’t miss such tropical island drinks as rum-and-fruit cocktails, colourfully decorated with hibiscus flowers. 37 MAURITIUS INDEX 2/7/13 11:11 AM Page 127

INDEX

Cap Malheureux 17, 38, Ferney 60 Île de la Passe 59, 60, 63 47–48 filao see casuarina Île de l’Est 58 INDEX Cargados Carajos fire-walking see Teemeedee Île des Deux Cocos 64 Note: Numbers in bold Archipelago 5, 57 fishing 14, 23, 45, 48, 49, Île Plate 9, 12, 50, 51 indicate photographs Cascade Cécile 75 62, 84, 87 Île Ronde 8, 11, 50, 51 Agalega Islands 5 Casela Nature and Leisure Flacq district 55–58 Îlot du Mort 49 agriculture 22–23 Park 13, 83, 88–89 Flat Island see Île Plate Îlot Fourneau 77 Air Mauritius 24 casinos 35, 42, 77, 96, Flic en Flac 82, 83, 87, 88 Îlot Gabriel 51 Albion 90 106, 112 flora 10–11, 107–108, 119 Îlot Mangenie see Île Alexandra Falls 80 casuarinas 8, 9, 11, 42, 47, food and drink 35–37, 98, de l’Est All Souls’ Day 29 50, 56, 57, 66, 77, 88 99, 100, 106, 107, 114 Îlot Marianne 59 Anse la Raie 48 Cavadee 27, 29, 31 foreign investment 21 Îlot Sancho 75 anthuriums 10, 23, 62, 79 central plateau 6, 8, 25, Franco-Mauritians 25 Independence 18, 19 architecture 94, 97, 101, 111-120 François Leguat Giant Indian food 36, 99, 106 102, 104, 118 Centre de Flacq 56 Tortoise and Cave Indian labourers 18 Chamarel 70, 75, 77, 78, Reserve 67 indigenous forest 11, 59, Baie aux Tortues 40-41 79-80 French colonists 11, 16–17, 80, 106 Baie de la Grande Rivière Chamarel Coloured Earths 40–41, 43, 47, 50, 55, Indo–Mauritians 25, 26 Noire 80, 84 7, 79–80 59, 60, 61, 63, 65, 71, Isla Mauritia 41 Baie du Cap 75 Chamarel Falls 79 80, 93, 96, 97, 102, 118 Baie du Tombeau 40 Chinese food 36–37, 100 French language 17, 26, Jacotet Bay 75 Balaclava 41 Chinese New Year 30 46, 65 Java deer 12, 15, 35, 55, 60 Bambous 90 Clan Campbell 76 Jugnauth, Anerood 18, 19 Bambous Mountains 6, 8, climate 9–10, 39, 55, 71, gambling 35, 105, 112 83, 93, 111, 112 Ganga Asnan 29, 31 Kanaka Crater 8, 120 55, 58, 59, 63 climbing 33, 34, 67, 89, 95 Ghoons 27, 29, 30 Kestrel Valley 13, 35, 59, Bambous Virieux 59 Coin de Mire 8, 9, 50 glass-bottomed boats 32, 42 84 Banda (wreck) 40 colophane 11 golden bat 12, 66 Bassin Blanc 8, 14, 75 Conservator of Forests 14, golf 34, 42, 57, 58, 75, L’Aventure du Sucre 108 Battle of Vieux Grand Port 34, 112, 126 76, 77, 78, 113, 117 Labourdonnais, Bertrand 17, 55, 60, 61, 62, 63 coral 12, 14, 32, 41, 47, 75 Goodlands 49 François Mahé de 16, monument to 18 coral reef 5, 8, 13, 32, 42, Grand Baie 24, 33, 39, 61, 62, 93, 96, 107 beaches 9, 37, 39, 40, 42, 46, 50, 51, 64, 75, 84 42, 44–47 La Ferme reservoir 90, 116 45, 47, 48, 49, 50, 55, Creole food 35, 36, 45, art galleries 46 La Gaulette 77 56, 57, 58, 66, 71, 73, 62, 72, 99, 119 shopping 46 La Montagne du Lion 8, 60 74, 77, 78, 82, 83, 88 Creole language 26, 27, 65 yacht club 45 La Montagne du Rempart 7, Beau Bassin 7, 111, 115 Creole people 25, 26, 65 Grand Bassin 8, 29, 120 34, 83, 87, 89, 114 Bel Ombre 14, 75 Curepipe 7, 8, 22, 25, Grand Gaube 48–49 La Preneuse 86–87 Belle Mare 56–57 111-114, 117 Grand Port Bay 55, 63 Martello Tower 87 lime kilns 56 Botanical Gardens 112 Grand Port Coast 55, 58–61 La Tour Koenig 90 sugar factory 56 Dodo Club 113 Grande Rivière Sud-Est 7, La Tourelle de Tamarin 34, big-game fishing 31, 33, Floréal 112 114 8, 58 83, 86 48, 77, 78, 83, 85 Forest Side 113 Gris Gris beach 73 La Vanille Reserve des birds shopping 113–114 gris-gris 29, 73 Mascareignes 72–73 echo parakeet 12, 13, 84 town hall 113 Le Chaland Hotel 64 Mauritius kestrel 12, 13, Trou aux Cerfs 114, 115 Hart, Robert-Edward 73 Le Corps de Garde 7, 34, 60, 80, 84, 106 cyclones 9–10, 15, 20, 25, heart of palm 36 90, 114, 116 paille-en-queue see 126 Helderberg 57 Le Morne Brabant 7, 34, tropic bird helicopter service 24, 45, 70, 76, 77, 85, 88 pink pigeon 12, 13, 80, diamonds 114 50, 123 Le Morne peninsula 70, 84, 88 diving 32–33, 34, 42, 45, highway 24, 117, 123 76–78, 83 tropic bird 12, 50, 66 47, 51, 64, 67, 77, 86 Hindi 26 Le Piton de la Petite biscuits manioc 61, 99 Diwali 29, 31 Holi 29, 31 Rivière Noire 7, 83 Black River see Rivière dodo 11, 12, 15, 63, 97 horseracing 32, 102–103 Le Piton du Milieu 8, 34 Noire Domaine de l’Etoile 62 horseriding 34–35, 42, 77, Le Pouce 7, 34, 104 Black River Aviary 13, 83, Domaine les Pailles 34, 105, 106 Le Réduit 118 84 35, 105–107 hunting 35, 59, 120 Le Rempart see la Black River district 76, Dutch colonists 11, Montagne du Rempart 83–90 15–16, 20, 55, 57, 58, Île aux Aigrettes 9, 61, 63, Le Souffleur 64 Black River Gorges 14, 60, 63, 65, 80 84 Le Touessrok Resort 57, 58 80, 81, 119 Île aux Bénitiers 70, 77, 78 Les Trois Mamelles 7, 34, Black River Gorges East Indies 15, 16 Île aux Cerfs 8, 9, 57–58 83, 87, 114 National Park 11, 80 Eid-ul-Fitr 29, 31 Île aux Fouquets 59, 60, 63 Blue Bay 64 Eurêka 118–119 Île aux Goyaviers 56 Macchabée–Bel Ombre British colonists 17–18, Export Processing Zone Île aux Serpents 50, 51 Forest 14 65, 93, 96, 102, 118 (EPZ) 20–21, 116 Île d’Ambre 9, 49, 51 Maha Shivaratree 29, 120 127 MAURITIUS INDEX 2/7/13 11:11 AM Page 128

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Mahébourg 7, 8, 61–64 Plaine des Roches 55–56 public holidays 27, 31 Ramgoolam Museum 49, 61–62, 76 Plaine Wilhems district International Airport Maheswarnath Hindu 111–120 Quatre Bornes 7, 111, 19, 61, 63, 122–123 Temple 43 Plaisance 24, 61, 63, 111 113, 116–117 Sirius 60, 64 Mare aux Vacoas 119 Pointe aux Canonniers 42, slavery 18, 25, 76, 77 Mare Longue reservoir 43, 44, 46 railways 23, 24, 25, 61, snorkelling 31, 32, 41, 119–120 20º Sud Hotel 43 112 42, 47, 51, 57, 77 Mauritius Pointe aux Caves 90 Ramadan 29 Souillac 71, 72, 73–74 history 15–19, 40, 41, Pointe aux Piments 41 Ramgoolam, Sir Robert Edward Hart 42, 43, 55, 58–62, 63, Pointe aux Roches 74–75 Seewoosagur 18, 19 museum 73 76, 97–98, 103, 104, Pointe aux Sables 90 religion 27–30 Telfair Gardens 74 107–108, 112 Pointe d’Azur 47 restaurants 37, 42, 43, 44, stonefish 33, 124 previous names 14–16 Pointe d’Esny 55, 63, 64 46, 47, 52–53, 57, 58, subscooter 46 Mauritius fruit bat see Pointe de Flacq 56 62, 69, 73, 78, 80, 81, sugar 11, 15, 16, 18, 20, golden bat Pointe des Roches Noires 91, 95, 96, 100, 106, 21, 39, 55–56, 60, 75, Mauritius Tourism 49 107, 108, 109, 121 87, 108, 112 Promotion Authority Pointe du Diable 58–59 Riambel 72, 74 sugar estates 6, 17, 18, 122 Pointe Lafayette 55 Ringadoo, Veerasamy 18 21, 25, 42, 50, 62, Mauritius Marine Pointe Lascars 49 Rivière des Anguilles 72 71–72, 114 Conservation Society Poivre, Pierre 16, 107 Rivière Noire village 13, Surcouf, Robert 17, 62 14, 117 political parties 19–20 83, 86 surfing 33, 57, 77, 87 Mauritius Scuba Diving Pomponnette 72 Rivière Noire 8, 80 Association 32 Port Louis 6, 7, 21, 24, Robert Edward Hart Tamarin 87–88 Mauritius Underwater 25, 30, 93–105 Gardens 101 Tamarin Bay 33, 87 Group 117 architecture 94, 97, Roches Noires 49 Tamarind Falls 7, 119–120 Mauritius Wildlife Appeal 101, 102, 104 Rochester Falls 74, 81 Tamarind Falls reservoir Fund 13 cathedrals 102 Rodrigues 5, 64–67, 65 119 model ships 46, 49, 113, Caudan Waterfront 96, beaches 66 taxis 25, 45, 95, 124 114 105 Caverne Patate 67 Teemeedee 28 Moka district 111 Champ de Mars 102, 103 history 11, 17, 19, 63, 65 Telfair skink 12, 50, 72 Moka mountains 6, 93, Chinese pagoda 27 mountains 67 tennis 34, 42 103, 104, 106, 108, Chinese Quarter 100 offshore islands 67 tourism 21, 22, 55, 66, 115, 119 Company Gardens Petite Butte coral quarry 71, 88 Mon Choisy 42, 46 (Jardins de la 67 Trevessa 75, 76 money 124 Compagnie) 97–98 Pointe Coton 66 Triolet 43 Mouchoir Rouge 61 Fort Adelaide (La Port Mathurin 65, 66, 67 Trois Cavernes 89 Citadelle) 104 Port Sud-Est 66 Trou aux Biches 4, 40, nature conservation 13–14, Government House (Hôtel Trou d’Argent 66 41–42 50–51, 80, 84, 117 du Gouvernement) 16, wildlife 66 Trou aux Cerfs 8, 114, 115 newspapers 125 93, 96, 97, 101 Rose Hill 7, 111, 115–116 Trou d’Eau Douce 56, 57, harbour 24, 93, 96 Plaza Theatre 115, 116 58 One&Only Le St Géran history 9, 16, 18, 25, Round Island see Île 56, 58 93–94, 96 Ronde University of Mauritius 26 Jummah Mosque 100 Palmar 56 Kaylasson temple 104 sailing 31, 33, 45, 55, 57, Vacoas 7, 111, 117 Pamplemousses district Lam Soon temple 103 77 Vacoas Mountains 83, 89 39–43 market 98–99 St Géran (wreck) 47, 49, Van der Stel, Adriaan 60 Pamplemousses Royal Mauritius Institute and 51, 62 Van der Stel, Simon 60 Botanic Gardens see Museum 12, 13, 86, 97 salt pans 84, 86, 87 Victoria amazonica water Sir Seewoosagur Municipal Theatre 101 Savanne district 71–76 lilies 107, 108 Ramgoolam Botanic Natural History Museum Savanne mountains 6, 71, Vieux Grand Port 59, 60 Garden 63, 97 75 volcanoes 6, 114 parasailing 57, 77 Place Sookdeo sea urchins 33, 124 Paul et Virginie 47, 49, Bissoondoyal (Place séga dance 30–31, 42, 66, walking 23, 33, 34, 51, 51, 113 d’Armes) 95–96, 97 76, 84 57, 62, 72, 74, 75, 77, Père Laval 29, 30, 103 post office 102 shells 14, 32, 33, 86 83, 95, 106, 119, 120 Péreybère 47 Sainte Croix 29, 103 shipwrecks 32, 40, 43, 47, water-skiing 33, 42, 45, pétanque 35 shopping 96, 98–99, 49, 62, 64, 67, 75, 76 57, 77 philately 18 101, 105 Shiva 120 water sports 31, 32–33, Phoenix 7, 111, 113, 117 Signal Mountain 102, shopping 46, 56, 88, 96, 34, 35, 45, 64, 77, 83 Pieter Both 40, 95, 104 104 98–99, 100, 101, 105, wild guavas 119 Pieter Both mountain 7, statues 96, 97, 98, 100, 113–114, 116, 117 wildlife 11–13, 32, 33, 34, 95, 104, 108 101 Sir Seewoosagur 50, 66, 80, 84 pirates 15, 16, 17, 94 Poste de Flacq 55–56 Ramgoolam Botanic windsurfing 31, 45, 57, Plaine Champagne 34, Poste Lafayette 49, 55 Garden 13, 107–108 64, 77 71, 75, 76, 78 Poudre d’Or 49 Sir Seewoosagur Wolmar 83, 86, 88 128