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VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA A DISTINCTIVE CULTURAL MAGAZINE OF (A Half-Yearly Publication)

Vol.38 No.2, 76th Issue

Founder-Editor : MANANEEYA EKNATHJI RANADE

Editor : P.PARAMESWARAN

PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA (This is the edited reprint of the Vivekananda Kendra Patrika with the same theme published in February 1974)

EDITORIAL OFFICE : Vivekananda Kendra Prakashan Trust, 5, Singarachari Street, Triplicane, - 600 005. The Vivekananda Kendra Patrika is a half- Phone : (044) 28440042 E-mail : [email protected] yearly cultural magazine of Vivekananda Web : www.vkendra.org Kendra Prakashan Trust. It is an official organ SUBSCRIPTION RATES : of Vivekananda Kendra, an all-India service mission with “service to humanity” as its sole Single Copy : Rs.125/- motto. This publication is based on the same Annual : Rs.250/- non-profit spirit, and proceeds from its sales For 3 Years : Rs.600/- are wholly used towards the Kendra’s Life (10 Years) : Rs.2000/- charitable objectives. (Plus Rs.50/- for Outstation Cheques) FOREIGN SUBSCRIPTION: Annual : $60 US DOLLAR Life (10 Years) : $600 US DOLLAR VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA

CONTENTS

1. Acknowledgements 1

2. Editorial 3

3. The Temple on the Rock at the Land’s End 6

4. Shore Temple at the Land’s Tip 8

5. Suchindram 11 6. 13

7. The Hill of the Holy Beacon 16 8. Compiled by B.Radhakrishna Rao 19

9. Brihadishwara Temple at Tanjore B.Radhakrishna Rao 21 10. The at Prof. Manoj Das 24

11. 30

12. -The Temple that Houses the Mother 32

13. 36

14. Kanchi: The Golden of Temples 38

15. The Temples of Kanchi 42

16. Adyar the Flaming Centre A.Kannan 52

17. The Six Abodes of Muruga 56

18. as a Place of Ooran Adigal 63

19. City of Hoary Shrines B.Radhakrishna Rao 66

20. Sri Ramanasramam 69

21. -The Abode of Lord B.Radhakrishna Rao 73

22. Ananthasayanam B.Radhakrishna Rao 75

23. Sivagiri P.Parameswaran 78 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA 24. Pilgrimage to Sabari Mala B.Radhakrishna Rao 81

25. 86

26. Kaladi B.Radhakrishna Rao 87 27. Kodungallur 90

28. : ’s Sacred Abode of Lord B.Radhakrishna Rao 92

29. Tradition, Antiquity,

History and Culture Dr.P. Raja Bhat 95

30. B.Radhakrishna Rao 102

31. Gomateshwara of B.Radhakrishna Rao 104

32. Sri Dharmasthala Kshetra B.Radhakrishna Rao 107

33. Pilgrimage Around Compiled Feature 111

34. 117

35. , the Capital of old-time Vijayanagar 119

36. Melkote B.Radhakrishna Rao 123

37. Manthralaya K.R.Raghothama Rao 125

38. The Seven Sacred Hills of ‘’ 131

40. Sri Kalahasti 136

41. Some Select Shrines of the Andhra Region 139

42. Shrines on the Banks of Godavari 145

43. The Undying Glory of an Undying City Satya 152

44. The Miracle Sage of Prasanti Nilayam 153

45. Mahanandi B.Radhakrishna Rao 154

46. 156

47. Goa 158

48. Two other Well-Known Spots 159 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA 49. Pilgrimage Centres in L.K.Gatne 160

50. of Sri Sai Baba T.Kesava Rao 168

51. ’s Somnath and Dwaraka Compiled Feature 176 52. Girnar and Satrunjaya Harihar Singh 181 53. Vindhyachal 184 54. Three Beautiful Holy Centres of the North Mohanlal Srivastava 185 55. Pilgrim Spots in the Heart of India 187

56. 193

57. Abu (Temples of Dilwada) H.Bhisham Pal 199

58. -The Purifier 203

59. 206

60. Gaya A Compiled Feature 211

61. Prayag 214

62. Chitrakut 218

63. or Saket 222

64. -Brindavan 225

65. Uttarkhand Shrines 230

66. 236

67. The Gateway to Other Heights 238

68. The Forest Academy of Rishikesh 241

69. The Mother Mountain at the Peaks 243

70. Amarnath A Pilgrimage to Faith 245

71. The Abode of Siva In Snowy Peaks 248

72. The Pilgrimage Range of A Compiled Feature 251

73. Pashupathinath 253

74. 254

75. Pilgrim Centres in 255 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA 76. Assam, the Peerless Sri B.K.Barua & Sri V.S.Murthy 261

77. The Leelasthanas as

Pilgrim Centres of Modern India Bodhaswarupananda 263

78. Tarakeswar 278

79. Navadvip Prajnan Yati Maharaj 280

80. 285

81. Lord of Compiled Feature 286

82. 291

83. Sri as a pilgrim Prof. M.R.Sampat Kumaran 298

84. Pilgrimage In A.Subramanian 304

85. Two Little Known Temples 307

86. Nayanmars and Saivite

Centres of Pilgrimage N.Murugesa Mudaliar 309

87. They bear the Imprint of the Lotus Feet of Lord Buddha 316

88. Jain Pilgrim Centres A brief resume 327

89. The Linga and its Ioci 332 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA

Acknowledgements

e acknowledge with thanks the Works, Tirunelveli. following sources from which we Wwere privileged to draw part of (v) A Search In Secret India by Paul our material for the present issue: Brunton, (c) Messrs Rider and Company, (I) The Discovery of India by 178-202, Great Portland Street, London. for which (vi) The Temples of India by Prof. Manoj permission was kindly granted by Das. printed with the kind permission of our Prime Minister Smt. Indira the Publishers, India Book House, Education Gandhi. Trust, Bombay-5. (2) From Man to Man by Sri Narayan. We owe a special debt of gratitude to Sri (3) The Spiritual Heritage of S Ramakrishnan, Executive Secretary, by Dr. V. Raghavan, for which Bharatiya Bhavan for the kind permission was accorded by the permission accorded to us to draw choice President, Sri , material from the following publications. Mylapore. (4) Marga Darshi by Sri R. V (a) Immortal India Vols I to IV by J.D.Dave. Venkateswarulu, President, S. S. R. (b)Temples and Legends of by N. S. Sangam, Roy Chaudhury. (5) A Guide to Kanchi by Dr. M. K. (c) Temples and Legends of Maharashtra Srinivasan. by M. S. Mate. (d) Temples and Legends of Assam by Other books that have been of invaluable B.K. Barua and H. V. S. Murthy. use in the compilation of the Journal are: (e) Indian Travel Diary of a Philosopher by Count Hermann Keyserling. (i) Complete Works of whose (f) Lord - The Sasta by copyright vests with the Ramakrishna Pyappan. Sarada Mission Sister Nivedita Girls’ School, (g) the Divine Child by Ratna Calcutta. Navaratnam. (ii) by Kumari Handoo, There are several other books and Orient Longman Limited. periodicals which provided us useful (iii) The Voice of the Mother by E. source-material such as : Bharadwaja, Matrusri Publications Trust, (I) Iswara Darshan by Swami Tapovanji Station Road, Bapatla. (A.P.), . Maharaj. (iv) By-ways of Blessedness by James (2) Wanderings in the also Allen (c) South India Saiva Siddhanta by the same author. 1 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA (3) Light of Asia by Edwin Arnold. (12) The Message of the Himalayas by (4) Gitanjali by . Swami Sambuddhananda. (5) Temples of (Revised Edition) Publications Division, We are grateful to the Bharat Sevashram . Sangh for the help they have rendered in (6) Know Madurai by T. V. Sundaram collecting and sending us material from and Sons. various Pilgrim Centres of India. (7) The Sikhs by Dr. Gopal Singh and In addition to these we have pleasure in Dr. T. M. P. Mahadevan. stating that we have drawn sketches (8) Buddhist Shrines in India, copied from: Publications Division, Government of (1) Hindu Viswa Souvenir, 1966. India, Patiala House, New -I. (2) Know Madurai, Mjs. T. V. Sundaram (9) The Ank by Gorakhpur Press, Iyengar and Sons. Gorakhpur, India. (3) Temples of North India (Publications (10) Lekhana Kaveri Vols. I and II by Division, Government of India). Rashtrothana Parishad. (4) Illustrated Weekly of India, 24th (11) Illustrated Weekly of India, July 30, December, 1972. 1972, December 26, 1971, July 22, (5) Tenth Agama Silpa . Bharatha- 1973, April 2, 1972, April 16, 1972 Folk-Lore Festival Sadas, Madurai. and June 3, 1973.

2 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA EDITORIAL PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA

ilgrimage in India is a great and spots hallowed by tradition, shrines on glorious tradition. The Aitareya mountain-tops, selected areas for PBrahmana has it that” happiness is purificatory baths in perennial rivers and not for him who does not travel”. Pilgrimage at confluences of waters, cave-temples invests travel with sublime meaning and and temples in celebrated , renowned purpose. Apart from the obvious fact that no less for their historical associations than it is one of the modes of for the for their epic memories, broadly classified men of faith, deepening and strengthening as Sthalas, Tirthas and Kshetras. These the religious sentiment, it is also an sacred spots have an “aura” of their own, “expression of love for the Motherland” and and its impact is felt by every earnest “expands the geographical consciousness” Pilgrim. The rarified atmosphere in them is of the Pilgrim. It provides an incentive, if evidently charged with super-natural power not inspiration, for those that are un- generated by the intensity of “ ” and accustomed or un-prepared for travel to the strong, subtle vibrations of spiritual emerge from their narrow isolation and thoughts of and Sages, who are “grow beyond fetters of time and space,” believed to have lived and moved in and sharing in a fuller life of understanding, around the spots. If, as the Philosopher tolerance and common brotherhood. Radhakrishnan points out, “tapas” implies Pilgrimage, it is said, is a potential nation- a “ gathering-up of all dispersed energies” builder, an effective means of national and and their consolidated concentration in a cultural integration, capable of “persistent endeavour to dwell in the Divine transforming the self-centred individual into and develop a transfigured life,” everyone a lover of man-kind no less than a devotee of these Sthalas or Tirthas is rich in such of God. It would also serve as a means for associations with Tapasvins and their the sublimation of the ”wander-lust” of man, thoughts, even if we left out of account giving it a direction in a spiritual dimension. the legendary and mythological memories. “Travel maketh a man perfect,” said Bacon; but it was not aimless wandering that the To the believer and the traditionalist, essayist meant by travel. Tirthas and Kshetras are abodes of the in India always included sacred Divine, chosen spots of specific or special

3 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA manifestation of Divinity ; and any good some association or other, ancient or deed done in their vicinity, any act of recent, but remaining unnoticed owing to personal or religious duty discharged extraneous factors. acquires additional merit and grows in significance, - whether it is in the nature Our survey, though just a bird’s eye-view, of a sacrificial oblation, ritualistic worship comprehends besides Hindu Shrines and to an Ishta Devata, offerings in Shraddha Tirthas, including Jain Temples, Buddhist to ancestors, or even as an ordinary act , as also a few of more of charity (dana). The scriptures declare recent origin, like the head-quarters of Sri that through “, dana, tapas and and Math, Sri fasting” one could purify one’s mind and Chaitanya Math, Aurobindo Ashram, heart and render oneself fit for the descent Sivananda Ashram, Shirdi of Sai Baba etc. of Grace and the dawn of . Pilgrim We have throughout striven to high-light Centres are thus focussing points of light the idea that Mother India is one integral and power. whole, - spiritually and culturally no Jess than geographically. We have in this issue of our Vivekananda Kendra Patrika collected and presented Going on a Pilgrimage may appear material relating to the several Pilgrim superfluous and a futile adventure from the Centres of India, scattered all over the highest spiritual point of view, that is to land, far and near, from the confluence of say from the stand-point of one who has seas at in the southern most been able to discover the Divine in the extremity to the heights of the Himalayan depths of his own heart, which thus ranges bordering on the north, - “ Nature’s epitomises all the sacred shrines and Cathedrals, where aspiring humanity may Tirthas of the outer world. This may not worship all that is pure and sublime in be a valid objection against the common Nature’s creation”. We do not claim that run of devotees undertaking pilgrimage in the picture is complete or the presentation the outer world, moving from one sanctified is exhaustive. We have, however, spot to another and getting the benefits attempted to make it as representative as stored up in each. possible. The Pilgrim Centres described here are not confined to any particular It may not be out of place to close with a faith, religious persuasion or or sub- few relevant extracts from the writings of sect, and our treatment attempts at. no the .well-known German Travel Philosopher, special emphasis on the significance of any Herman Keyserling: “Benares is holy, a world particular region or area, which has not gone superficial, hardly understands such already loomed large in human memory truths any more”. through the impact of tradition or history. On the other hand, we have very briefly Before long no one will undertake a touched on a few less- known or even pilgrimage, and sooner or later, - only not “obscure” spots in the land, sanctified by too soon - religion will stand without its

4 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA holy places. How poor will it get in the process!” And Keyserling adds, “it is We know not whence and at whose call, meaningless to ask whether a place is really these myriad streams holy. If it is regarded as holy for a Have come rushing forth to lose sufficiently long period, then Divinity takes themselves in this sea - residence there”. and Non-Aryan, Dravidian and Chinese, It is profoundly significant that Count Scythian, Hun, Pathan and Moghul, Keyserling after advancing an array of all merged into one body. arguments in defence of Pilgrimage concludes : “Of course, it would represent Now the West has opened her doors, the highest pinnacle if men could feel the bringing their offerings, presence of God every-where, but hardly They will give and take, unite, one out of a million is capable of this”. and will not turn away, In this Land of India, on the shore of vast humanity. Come 0 , come Non-Aryans, THE SONG OF INDIA Hindu, Mussalman come, Come ye Parsees, come O Christians, Heart of mine, awake in this come ye one and all, holy place of pilgrimage, Come , let thou be hallowed In this Land of India, on the by holding all by hand. shore of vast humanity. Come ye all who are shunned, Here do I stand with wipe out the dishonour, arms out-stretched to Come to the crowning of the Mother, salute man divine, fill the sacred bowl And sing his praise in many With water that is sanctified a glad-some paean. by the touch of all These hills that are rapt in In this Land of India, on the deep meditation, shore of vast humanity. These plains that clasp their rosaries of rivers, - RABINDRANATH TAGORE Here will you find earth that is ever-sacred; In this Land of India, on the shore

5 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA

The Temple on the Rock at the Land’s End

of vast humanity. calm determination of a confirmed ascetic. Eternity Concretised in a Message At other times it seemed as though the ocean depths had heaved up and gifted HE waters seethed, stormed and this. surged, now lapping gently and again Tlashing furiously against rocky Where Today Stands This Monument mounds that stood cradled in the depths of the ocean. On one of these rocks defying Years ago a pair of rocks stood out there, all storms and surges stands a structure where today stands this monument. On one dedicated to the memory of an epoch- portion of the main rock is the impression making event in the life of one of the noblest of one tiny foot which is worshipped as sons of India. This is the Memorial that the Sri Padam (the Holy Foot) of the has taken shape to commemorate Swami Mother who, as a Virgin (Kanya) stood here Vivekananda’s magnificent vision of a in a posture of penance to propitiate Lord resurgent Inda. Coming to this land’s end, Siva of the snow capped peaks of Kailas. where mingle the “virgin waters” of three This spot is now housed in a small shrine mighty oceans, he swam to the rock and called Sri Pada Mandapam. Overlooking this sat there wrapped in the fathomless depths on the same rock is the spacious structure of thought that got absorbed into a housing a 7½ feet high statue of Swami profound meditation on the horizons of Vivekananda. It is hard to believe that this Mother India’s future. Here, today, on this has become as much a as very spot stands the mighty structure of the ancient shrine of Kanya Kumari on the a timeless temple, symbolising a message main land, though this was once a little of eternity concretized in a moment of time. known spot. Twenty years ago these were So truly natural are its hues that it looks two deserted rocks unnoticed by many, as if the very hand that fashioned the rock known to a few, perhaps, but they in mid-sea was also the one that carved thought it better to leave it in its obscurity. out this exquisite piece of architectural Now boats fly from and to the main land beauty. Its walls blend at once with the over a distance of 450 yards. colour of the rock and of the sea, and its Men, women and children line up in large roof and dome reflect the soft spectral numbers from 8 am to 4 p.m. to worship hues of the rosy dawn or asin the hushed that sacred little foot symbolic of the hours of sun-set, the muted mellowness aspiration of Indian woman-hood. They of the evening sky. Sometimes it looks like also look up and gaze in wonderment at a medieval fortress with battlements and the lofty Holy figure of the Swamiji, who fords set against Nature’s fury with the is the pride of India signifying all that is 6 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA noble and pure in man, a man whose heart by worshippers. Saints andSages are bled for every suffering fellow man, a believed to have come and sat in deep pattern of true renunciation. His very pose meditation on the rock from time conveys powerful determination, one of do immemorial. It was this halo of sanctity or die. Work unto death for the teeming around the rock that made Swami poverty- stricken children of Mother India. Vivekananda, an ardent devotee of the Yes. Even if it should mean a mighty Mother that he was, ride the surging holocaust. That is what the powerful waves and swim across the distance to statue on the polished pedestal seems to this sacred, secluded spot. Pining for a urge as exhortation. vision of Lord Siva, the heart that led him Born in he traversed the length and on to the snow-clad eminences of the breadth of India, lived with the lowliest Himalayas drew Him to the southern-most among the low, and mixed freely with kings tip of his Mother Land. and generals. His India was, is and will ever be One. The very Mother, the imprint The Prominent Structures on the Rock of whose foot on the rock at the land’s end epitomised the spirit of penance, had The prominent structures on the rock are her mind fixed on the Lord who ruled the the Sri Pada Mandapam and Vivekananda snowy peaks of Kailas. Her purest Mandapam, besides ancillary structures like aspirations ascended like a sacrificial flame, reservoirs, power distribution centre, while Her Lord’s came down in a circular pathways, etc. The Sri Pada shower of grace on Her. If this does not Mantapam consists of the Sanctum reveal the integral unity of India, if not of Sanctorum (Garbha Griham), the inner and all humanity, what does? outer Prakaram and a platform all around. The Vivekananda Mantapam is composed Original Temple and its Reappearance of the Sabha Mantapam, Dhyana Mantapam and the Mukha Mantapam. The entire Legend has it that the original Kanyakumari architectural pattern, particularly the temple was somewhere in the vicinity of design of the seven Sikharams, is almost Sri Pada Parai, the hillock sanctified by the a reproduction of Sri Ramakrishna Temple foot-print of the Mother, and that the rock at Belur but with a significant local touch itself was a part of the main land. Ravages introduced by raising typical of time and vagaries of nature demanded designs. their toll and the temple disappeared from The Sri Pada Mandapam is constructed on its original spot. So we have today the the traditional style with the three shrine as it re-appeared in the famous Prakarams, which is significant in that it temple on the main land at Kanyakumari, represents the three states of drawing people from all over India, far and consciouness (waking, dream and deep near, for their worship. Whatever the sleep). It is only when man transcends all authenticity of legend and tradition, it is these states that he reaches the certain that the rock has been venerated innermost core of his being, the sanctum

7 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA sanctorum of the spirit. Here the sanctum has the foot-print enclosed in a glass case. SHORE TEMPLE AT THE

Swamiji’s Imposing Statue LAND’S TIP Kanyakumari Temple Overlooking the Sri Pada is the Vivekananda [The Meeting Place of Sixteen Tirthas] Mantapam approached by a flight of stairs into an ornate, pillared and polished passage that leads into the hall, the Sabha HE dons robes of violet, indigo, Mantapam where Swamiji’s imposing turquoise-blue, green, slate grey or statue stands with eyes fixed on the Sinky black trimmed with flounces and sacred foot-print. flounces of foamy lace. These waters Here in hushed silence thousands file past bewitch the onlooker with their maiden or prostrate full length. They are loath to vagaries and moods. “These waters are move on and have to be unwillingly virgin”, said Gandhiji, “this is no port of reminded of the presence of others behind call”. Standing sentinel-like on these shores, them. From here they move on to the walled and cloistered within its mighty walls Dhyana Mantapam or the Meditation Hall, is ‘the virgin Goddess’ - “Kanya Kumari”. apparently intended for the contemplatives High, ochre lined walls shut her off from among the visitors. A hushed serenity rules the roar of the ocean and the din and here. No statue but the universal symbol noise of the outside world. Devotees of Aum inscribed in glass, installed on a stream in from all parts of India, for no highly polished arrests the devotee’s pilgrimage is complete without a trip to attention, inviting him to a consummation this ancient shrine said to be over a of all the loftyfeelings and sentiments thousand years old. Buses packed with experienced so far, by halting here for a eager faces unload an unending stream of few moments. Time ticks away in such pilgrims which wends its way to the water’s sublime company, and all too soon one is edge to have a dip where the three oceans wrenched out into the harsh world of meet. Here also is the sacred spot of the realities by one’s own vagrant thoughts. confluence of the Matr-Pitr Tirthas. There People once more fill the landing to the are in all 16 Tirthas skirting the oceans waiting boat, that is to take them back to and the temple precincts. They are Savitri, the mainland. They no doubt leave behind Gayatri, Saraswathi, Kanya, , , them a part of their noblest aspirations Salaba, Vinayaka, , Vedavyasa, and take with them the blessings of the Dhanushkodi, , Matr, Pitr, and Mother and Swamiji in their onward journey Sthanu Tirthas, of which four alone are through life. This is then the tale of that described in the course of this article. The Rock, which now attracts multitudes last Tirtha has some connection with the inspired or motivated from unfathomed Sthanu-malaya Tirtha of Suchindram. This depths of utter . stream moves on next to the tiny temple of Vighneswara (the Lord who removes

8 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA obstacles) that overlooks the Vivekananda In the Presence of the Kanya Rock. After circumambulating and praying for His grace, the devotees enter the Here is the entrance that leads to the door, outermost precincts of the main temple and from which the sanctum sanctorum can be come face to face with the massive Eastern seen. The next corridor to be Gate of the temple which remains closed circumambulated before finally coming face permanently. Behind the closure of this gate to face with the Mother accommodates lies a tale. the images of , Vinayaka and Tyaga Sundari. After visits to these, one is The Story of the Closed Gate ushered directly into the presence of the Kanya, the presiding of this shrine. Once upon a time this door stood open, She stands there as a young girl absorbed and the narrative says that the precious in Her penance, with a mala (rosary) in her bright gem set in the nose jewel of the right hand, The image is made of blue Mother was shedding its lustrous radiance stone, and it is said that sage Parasurama so far and wide that by its sheer effulgence had installed it. It is only at the early hour it attracted ships away from their course. before dawn, when the is Being mistaken for the warning signal of a performed that one has a glimpse of the light-house. A ship once floundered on the real image, for at other times she is seen hidden rocks. It was thereafter that this decked out in all finery. door had to be closed to the public. From here the pilgrim turns round the corner to Legends Woven Round the Very Name come to the Northern Gate that is open. Stalls hawking worship material flank this Many are the legends woven round the gate. Here men are asked to cast off their very name - ‘Kanyakumari’. The emperor, occidental attire and don the true Indian who ruled over India in ancient and enter the presence of the Mother days, had nine children, eight sons and a “shirtless”. After completing the outer daughter. When the time came for his round and crossing the Navarathri retirement from the daily affairs of life Mantapam, the pilgrims enter the second () to take to the life of a hermit corridor encircling the shrine. At the he divided his kingdom into nine equal entrance is the image of Kala , portions, of which the southern portion worshipping which the devotees turn left came under the reign of his daughter and crossing the Pathala Tirtha (the Kumari, who was an incarnation of the well from which the water for worship of Goddess Kanya, Hence the name the Deity is drawn) and the image of Kanyakumari. The region mentioned above Anjaneya, they reach the Dhwaja extended approximately to 50 miles south (the flag-mast of temple). of its present situation. Historians say that it was called Limooriya island, and that there was a hillock called Kumari Malai there. Another and more accepted version

9 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA is that Pushkarakshi or Punyakasi, the Goddess mounted on the Uchchaisrava to daughter of Mayasura, prayed to invoke the nearby village of Mahadanapuram, the blessings of the Lord of KaiIas and His where the whole drama of confrontation Consort. Pleased by her devotion, the Lord with the is acted out till late in the appeared before her in a vision and advised night. It is then that they open the eastern her to stay absorbed in permanent penance gate, when after victorious return from at the Land’s End, where it is stated, she battle She is taken for a ceremonial bath ultimately attained eternal beatitude, and at the Kanyatirtha directly below the got merged into the form of the universal Eastern gate. This is one of the sacred Mother. This same Punyakasi was later ‘Pancha Nari Tirthas’. canonised as Kanyakumari by saints and sages. She now stands there in all the glory The Rock Memorial of her virgin beauty sanctifying the whole land and all Her devotees. On Pilgrims and tourists throng Kanyakumari emerging from the sanctum one enters the at all times. Endowed by Nature with rich second round way encircling the temple scenic beauty, and sanctified by Divine where is seen the image of Bala Sundari, Presence and the confluence of three very similar to the one seen earlier as Tyaga oceans at India’s Land’s End, the whole Sundari. These are considered and area draws crowds from every part of the worshipped as the devoted companions country and even from distant parts of the of the first ‘Virgin Goddess’. world. The sunrise and the sunset at Another version that is current is that two Kanyakumari are phenomenal. Standing on Asuras, Baka and Mooka, let loose a reign the shore and watching the sunrise one’s of terror among the people, including saints wondering attention alights on another and sages. To put an end to this, the sages temple, a little away from the shore on appealed to Lord Parameswara, who one of the twin rocks in mid-sea. Those created two ‘saktis’ out of the supreme interested have facilities to cross that strip Parasakti. These were and Kumari, and of sea and get at the rock, celebrated as with their advent there was an end to the the Vivekananda Rock, and at the structure sorrow and suffering of the people. Later standing on it known as the Vivekananda Kali went over to on the banks of Rock Memorial. the River Ganga, and Kumari stayed on the shores of the three seas at Land’s End, blessing and protecting all who sought her grace.

Re-enacted in History

Even today this event is re-enacted on the Vijayadasami Day, when the deity is taken out in full regalia as a warrior

10 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Suchindram Sthanumalaya and the Divine Trinity

This rare shrine dedicated to the Divine UCHINDRAM is abundantly blessed Trinity is of Sthanumalayaswami at with natural charm. Circled by the Suchindram; and it may well be described graceful sweep of River Paziayar, S as the spiritual metropolis of Nanchilnad, skirted by lush and luxuriant fields of paddy, The temple’s architectural excellence as dotted by serried ranks of palms, their well as its traditional association with the fronds rustling in the breeze, this could be hoary Kanyakumari shrine attract pilgrims a veritable pilgrim’s paradise. Rising in large numbers throughout the year. majestically above this is the Tower of the Legend links the Goddess Kanyakumari of Temple of Suchindram, intricately carved the Land’s End with the Lord Siva abiding out with plaster figures proportioned to a at Suchindram. perfection and executed with exquisite skill. While the Mother stands at the confluence of the three oceans, the Lord has stationed Structural Blend of Different Periods himself at a distance of eight miles from Her at Suchindram. Here He is called The architecture of the Suchindram Temple Sthanumalaya Peru mal. An interesting shows that its structures owe their origin legend has it that a marriage was arranged to different periods of history. The Pandyas between Her and Lord Siva, - on an and Cholas, the Vijayanagar Kings, the auspicious day at an auspicious moment Nayaks of Madurai and the rulers of at Kanyakumari. The Lord, however, failed Travancore have all contributed to the to arrive at the appointed hour, and the richness of its architectural beauty. , Goddess had to go in search of Him. Goddesses, animals, birds, natural scenes, Meanwhile, the auspicious moment had and human figures vie with one another passed, and she went back to for a fitting place on the tower of this Kanyakumari. That is why she stands at House of God. Mural paintings depicting Kanyakumari to this day as the virgin incidents from the are confined Goddess, and He Himself remains at to the inner walls of the Gopuram (Tower). Suchindram. Tradition also says that the The Alankara Mantapam has 4 carved pillars offerings of water, oil, and flowers fashioned out of a single stone. Two of made to Him at Suchindram, reach them contain 33 smaller pillars and the Kanyakumari through ‘an underground others have 25 pillars each. These pillars passage to a sanctified spot called the emit musical notes when struck and are Sthanu Tirtham. remarkable for the ingenuity of workmanship Suchindram owes its name also to Indra, reflecting a perfect blend of the art and the prince among Gods who is said to have science of architecture. been purified of sin through his penance performed here at this shrine, where stands the Trimurthi Mahalinga. The temple is

11 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA than one reason. As one travels down to Kanyakumari, this temple by its very location and beauty of the structure draws the pilgrim’s attention, and he feels profoundly grateful to providence for this digression. Anjaneya, the devout follower of Lord Sri is located in a compound, the length of whose ever ready to grant boons to those who Northern wall is 402 ft. In this compound, utter His Master’s name with true, there are more than 30 shrines. The main heartfelt devotion. This imposing form of temple is that of Sthanurnalaya Perumal. Hanuman as seen at Suchindram, as a Facing the sanctum of this main temple fulfiller of prayers, draws pilgrims from all and on the Eastern side is the famous parts of India. Anjaneya is said to have Swayambhu Linga representing the alighted at a place close by, called Marutha Trimurthi. Behind this is the Konrai tree. Malai, before He took his legendary leap to According to the wishes of Sage and . Here a bit of the hill is believed to his saintly wife , the three gods have given way and is even, now Siva, Brahma and Vishnu appeared in the considered a most appropriate spot for form of this linga represented respectively prayer and penance. Many a and by its top, middle and bottom portions. seeker and many who are in quest of the graces of solitude find in this place, a Gigantic Anjaneya rewarding haven. Lord Hanuman - that paragon of epic devotion and embodiment of true humility. - Translated and adapted from This statue depicts Anjaneya’s Viswarupa Kanyakumari and Other Temples by Darshana as granted to languishing in Parameswaran Pillai. the Asoka Vana. The image of Hanuman here is about 18 feet high and is believed to be of matchless potency. Suchindram is as much a place of pilgrimage as any other great temple of India for more 12 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA was built) at the one end and the Rameswaram Himalayas at the other, and the people that live in the holy land between these two defining borders hold Rameswaram and The of Holy Association Kailas (Himalayas) as sacred abodes of Lord by visiting which, they feel their lives NSHRINING one of the twelve Jyotir would be sanctified and souls uplifted. Lingas, associated with the holy Ememory of Lord Sri Rama, the temple The Gandha Madana of Rameswaram shines in all its sacred glory attracting to its premises countless Rameswaram, known in the as pilgrims from all over India. In any mention Gandha Madana Hill, is the place from where of pilgrim centres the phrase “Kasi- Lord Sri Rama crossed over to Lanka Rameswaram” is sufficient to indicate the (Ceylon) by erecting a bridge between the inseparability of these two Siva Kshetras. two. Having vanquished the tyrant King A pilgrimage to Kasi is considered , who had kidnapped Sita, Sri Rama incomplete unless one visits Rameswaram, established , brother of Ravana as well. Rameswaram is as important a Siva on the throne of the Kingdom of Lanka and Kshetra in the South as Benares or Kasi is returned with Sita and others to the in the North. Gandha Madana hill. Advised by the Sages to propitiate Lord Shiva by worshipping His Kailas Linked with Rameswaram Swayambhu Linga on the sacred shores near the Gandha Madana Hill, in order to The temple of Rameswaram is situated in wash off the sin of slaying a , for the island of Rameswaram in Ramnad Ravana was a Brahmin King, a descendant District of Tamil Nadu. This island rests in of Pulastya Brahma, Sri Rama sent Hanuman Gulf of Mannar, where the Arabian Sea and to Kailas to bring the Linga from Shiva the meet. The temple lies Himself. Hanuman went to Kailas, where, huddled in a palm grove, surrounded by as the story goes, he was unable to secure the sea, reflecting divinity in serenity. the image and started a penance to please Considered as the second most holy place Lord Shiva so that he could get it. in India, next only to Benares, it attracts Meantime, on the shores near Gandha countless pilgrims from ‘all over India. The Madana, Rama and the others waited a crowd that gathers in the temple premises long while for Hanuman, and seeing the represents the whole of India, and one can auspicious moment fixed for consecrating see here every colour, costume, caste, the Linga drawing close, Sita made a Linga creed, cult and dialect that represent the out of sand, and Sri Rama consecrated it variegated admixture of faiths and cultures for worship. When Hanuman returned at that India reflects. The description of last, having pleased Shiva and got the India’s borders, “ A-Setu Himachalam “ puts Linga, he saw the one that was already Rameswaram (where Rama’s Setu or bridge established, and was very much 13 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA disappointed. Rama then asked him to Tirtha, Koti Tirtha, etc., and pilgrims, clad remove the Linga that had already been in wet garments, take a dip in all these established and replace it with the one he Tirthas. One very prominent motive of the brought. Try as he might, Hanuman could pilgrims visiting Rameswaram is the belief not extract the Linga from the soil, and that the childless would be blessed with then Sri Rama established the Linga he progeny if they visited this place. brought from Kailas by the side of the first About twelve miles from Rameswaram is one. This one, known as Sri Kasi Dhanushkoti, where the bridge to Lanka Visweswara is to be seen by the side of has actually been built. Here Sri Rama, the original Linga, and it is worshipped first after his return from Lanka, is said to have in the temple. The Jyotir Linga consecrated destroyed the bridge between the two and worshipped by Sri Rama has been called countries in response to the request of “Rameswar”, and Gandha Madana hill has Vibhishna. thus acquired the name of Rameswaram. Established on the 10th of Jyeshta Sukla Tirthas as Potent as Yajna this Jyotir Linga has made Rameswaram one of the most sacred Kshetras sanctified Vyasa, while explaining in his great Epic by its association with Lord Rama. Mahabharatha the merit of a pilgrimage, says that performance of sacrifices Sanctity Shines through Architecture () is an elaborate affair involving heavy expenditure, which only the rich can The temple at Rameswaram has acquired afford, and it requires a great many other fame throughout India for its architectural factors, too, to qualify a man to perform wealth as much as for its intrinsic sanctity. it. A man has to have the necessary The famous “Rameswaram Corridor” is the money, man-power to help, wife to take longest corridor in the world. The enclosed part in the rituals, to perform them temple premises occupy an area of 845 etc., to undertake a Yajna. But a visit to feet by 657 feet. The complete Gopuram the Tirthas is within reach of even on the western side is 78 feet in height. the least equipped man and gives him the The pillars supporting the corridors are same “Phalam” or fruit as that of the decorated with intricate designs and performance of a Yajna. Thus he advises patterns that reveal the exquisite skill of Dharma Raja to undertake a pilgrimage, and the architects of the day The corridors describes the sanctity and excellence of are about 400 feet in length varying from the different Tirthas. Rameswaram is hailed 17 to 21 feet in breadth and are about 30 as a great Tirtha enshrining one of the feet in height. The oceans on the eastern twelve Jyotir Lingas, and the Sage Vyasa and western side are called Ratnakar and advises Dharma Raja to visit this “Punya Mahodadhi, and are regarded as highly Tirtha,” whose holy waters as well as the sacred Tirthas. There are about 24 minor grace of the Lord manifest through them Tirthas in Rameswaram, such as would wash away all sins. Tirtha, Amruta Tirtha, Siva Tirtha, Sarva

14 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA

World famous third corridor of the Rameswaram Temple

Tiruvannamalai

15 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA The Hill of and uniqueness from the jungle of common humanity. Ramana remains the Holy Beacon mysteriously aloof. The impersonal, inscrutable quality of this sacred mountain got accentuated in this living form of SOLlTARY hill looms into sight as Bhagavan. Yes, it is impossible to talk of one enters . This hill Arunachala without mentioning Bhagavan. Awith a base of impressive extent and ample girth is shrouded in a veil of Hoary Tradition mist in the early hours of dawn. It rises like a reddish brown giant The Sage Gautama of hoary tradition is in the clear morning light. An isolated upland said to have described the greatness of (so it is to the common man) of red soil Arunachala to Mother . He has said and brown rock, barren for the most part that this Arunachala was in the form of a with large tracts that are treeless and with flame in Krita Yuga. That is how it came masses of stone split into great boulders into being. At one time Brahma and Vishnu strewn here and there, Arunachala raises had an argument when Lord Siva appeared its head in solitary grandeur as an isolated between them, as a column of fire, whose hill, head and shoulders above the irregular extent they were unable to gauge. Its chain of hills that girdle the entire luminous immensity made them burst forth landscape. into songs of praise and adoration of Siva, who then transformed Himself into a Linga, Arunachala-Ramana which now stands as the Arunachala. In the , it assumed the form of a It has an impersonal, impenetrable quality bejewelled hill; in the Dwapara, it shone about it. This, perhaps, is why it has come with a golden hue; in the Kali, it looks just to be recognised as the spiritual centre of a mountain. the world. The very utterance of the name This hill is believed to be the abode of “Arunachala “, it is said, stirred some and saints even to the present slumbering depths in the mind of young day. There are instances where they made Ramana, the Sage of Tiruvannamalai. It themselves visible to various seekers. was to a cave carved into this structure Bhagavan whose life was itself an of sanctity that he repaired in quest of exemplification of the truth of the , solitude. What caused him to come here? is said to have had the following experience. Was it merely the shelter that it afforded It was said that a lived under a from the vicissitudes of the weather? Or tree on the hill, but Bhagavan had was it the lack of light and noise which not heard about it. He only felt at that are major causes of disturbance to a time that there was something sublime meditative mind? These are only ‘attached to the hill. One day, he saw the conjectures. Ramana stands out like this very large leaf of a banyan tree, dropped strange mountain in all His solitary grandeur at the bottom of a dry waterway. He

16 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA wondered at the largeness of the leaf. always in the form of a Siddha worshipped Sometime later, when he was going up the by Devas. Let one imagine a divine abode hill he saw from a distance a large banyan gloriously existing within Me. What is known tree growing on a big rock. He drew near as Arunadri is (really) a column of after a precipitous climb but his further effulgence. This Hill is incomprehensible, progress was halted by hornets which stung being beyond speech and thought. It is him. He narrated the incident to devotees unapproachable being a mass of fire. It is who were anxiously awaiting his return. absolute, and therefore called supreme. It Some days after the event he happened is also a Hill in the form of a Linga. to read about the existence of a Siddha The temple of Lord Siva at Arunachala is Purusha on the north-eastern peak of the situated at the foot of the hill. A dusty hill. road leads one to the entrance of the great temple with its rising storeys of The Vision of Bhagavan Ramana carved reliefs. Around the gates and approaches to the temple are shops and Once Bhagavan Ramana narrated this to a stalls set up as temporary or permanent group of devotees who had gathered round structures. Beside them sit vendors selling him. He described to them a vision he images and pictures of the temple and the once had. He saw that Arunachala was Deity, as well as other objects like rosaries, hollow and that in it stood a beautiful , etc. The gate-way is with lakes and gardens. In one of the adorned by a gopuram of carved figures. gardens he saw a big gathering of Behind it there are three such others. These and sannyasis. It was a conclave presided structures dominate the entire landscape over by a sannyasin He also said that he of that little township. recognised many familiar faces. When he The faces of the gopuram are populated looked at the person presiding he by profuse carvings and quaint statues recognised the person as Himself. drawn from sacred myths and legends. One Hearkening back to the words of perceives the forms of divinities in devout Gautama, who told Mother Parvati, about meditation or inter-twined shapes of Arunachala, this is what he says. “Goddess! various forms, indicating the all-inclusive Hear what the great Siva told me. He said: nature of . One enters the temple While I abide gloriously on earth as to find oneself in an enormous quadrangle. Arunachala all the Devatas and Munis The vast structure encloses a labyrinth of circumambulate Me. At every step that colonnades, cloisters, galleries, shrines, one takes on the path round Me, all the rooms, corridors covered and uncovered sins committed by one in one’s past lives spaces. Moving down, one passes through are expiated.” a long cloister with solid walls and flat, He continues thus enumerating the glory quaintly carved pillars that support a hall. of Arunachala. “There are thousands of They look like a serried row of flats, carved Ashrams of Munis and Siddhas and abodes gigantic stone columns, that stretch out of Devas around Me. I myself abide here of the semi-gloom prevailing in the temple

17 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA at all times, except at the time when there assumed the fierce form of and are festivals. On a closer look one finds destroyed the . Later, she discovered that each pillar is composed of a single that he was a devotee of Siva and that he block of stone and even the roof is usually carried a Linga on his head. In composed of large pieces of granite. One expiation of this sin she struck a sword on sees again the sculptor’s art here in the the hill, and there sprang the Khadga carved faces of gods and goddesses, Tirtha. Here, she stood in deep penance animals familiar and unfamiliar that stare till the Lord appeared to Her in the form of at the onlooker. One passes on across the an effulgence (Jyoti). It is for this reason flag-stones of these pillared galleries and that this festival is celebrated at through dark passages lit here and there Tiruvannamalai or Arunachala. On this day by small blow lamps whose wicks are sunk the priests light a huge beacon on the top in oil, and thus arrive near a central of the hill, whose light illumines vast areas enclosure. for miles around. To have a glimpse of this Beacon on the hill of Arunachala thousands The Tejas Linga and the Beacon on the gather here from all parts of India. Hill -Adapted from Search in Secret India Here are five towers or which by Paul Brunton with selections from mark out the interior of the temple. These The Mountain Path. are made of brick. Some more passages, and one IS III front of the sanctum, which houses the Tejasa Linga (one of the five Bhuta Lingas). That one is in front of the sanctum sanctorum is confirmed by the sound of the conch and cymbals. Then a light flickers and circles the image, and gloom is dispelled. One can decipher the vague outlines of objects within. This gloom and silence are characteristic of most days except on a few occasions as in the month of Kartika (Nov.-Dec.), when people from all over the South throng to see the Kartika Deepam. It takes place on a full moon day. This day commemorates an incident in the life of Mother Parvati. The Mother was said to have been performing penance here according to the instructions of Sage Gautama, when a demon called came and disturbed her penance. Young Parvati then

18 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Chidambaram Compiled by B. RADHAKRISHNA RAO

Puranic Background

here is a fascinating Puranic legend about Chidambaram. Siva T once wanted to teach a fitting lesson to the in Darukavanam, who had gone arrogant on account of their scholarship. Assuming the form of a beggar and accompanied by Vishnu disguised as , Siva went to Darukavanam. The wives of the Rishis were enamoured at the beauty of the Divine couple, which enraged the Rishis, In a fit of jealousy they tried to destroy the pair. They raised a sacrificial fire, from which emanated a tiger which pounced on Siva. But Siva peeled off the skin of the tiger and wrapped it round MONG the five traditional dance his waist. Then the Rishis set against Siva halls of Siva, Chidambaram (about 150 miles south of Madras) is the an “Apasmara Purusha”, a malignant dwarf. A Siva crushed him effortlessly. At this the greatest and most ancient. This powerful Rishis confessed defeat and begged for seat of Saivite cult is held in veneration throughout Tamil Nadu and Ceylon. Siva’s pardon. Then began the enthralling, majestic cosmic dance of Siva, which all Chidambaram is also famous as the abode the gods and Rishis witnessed to the full of Akasa Linga, one of the five Pancha Bhuta Lingas. content of their heart. Adisesha, the serpent couch of Vishnu, who In ancient days Chidambaram was known heard the vivid description of Siva’s dance by different names such as Tillai, Ponnambalam, Vyagrapuram and from Vishnu, desired to witness the dance and prayed to Siva to allow him to see the Cittrambalam. The Presiding Deity of dance. Siva then told him that he would Chidambaram was the family God of . Many of the well-known Saivite perform the dance before him at Tillai. Adisesha was born as and went saints like , , Manicka to the forest at TiIlai where he was joined Vasagar, etc. have sung in full praise of . by Vyagrapada. Both of them began to worship Siva, and when the time came for 19 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Siva to perform the dance before his victory processions. The spectacular Nritta devotees, the guardian Deity of the place Sabha (hall of dance) represents a celestial Kali would not allow him. Thereupon, chariot with finely carved horses and they entered into an agreement, according wheels. The Kanaka Sabha (golden hall), to which both Siva and Kali should where Lord Siva entered into a dancing participate in the dance contest, and the bout with the fierce goddess Kali, enshrines winner could get the right of the place. the majestic idol of Nataraja. Kanaka Sabha, the roof of which is covered with The Defeat of Kali golden plates as the very name indicates, is “the most precious piece of workmanship Siva performed the Ananda (dance in sculpture.” of bliss) before his devotees, and defeated The thousand pillared hall near the eastern Kali and came into possession of Tillai, entrance, where the celebrated Saivite Sprawling over an area of 32 acres, the poet first recited his epic 2,000 years old temple of Nataraja stands ”Periyapuranam”, represents Chola art at on an alluvial plain between two rivers. its best. Though no granite is to be found within a radius of fifty miles of the temple, the The Nataraja Symbolism temple is built entirely of magnificent blocks of dressed granite. The esoteric significance of Nataraja deserves to be properly understood. The The Temple Style drum in the right hand of Nataraja symbolises that He is the saviour and In front of the temple, which faces east, protector of the world. The skin wrapped stands a nine-storeyed Gopuram built by ‘around his waist signifies the annihilation King Kulottunga. This Gopuram is exquisitely of (ego). The right leg trampling the decorated with incidents and episodes from malignant dwarf represents the destruction Puranas, and may rightly be regarded as of or illusion. characteristic of the later Chola style. The Behind the image of Nataraja, separated inner wall of the temple has four from it by a veil is Akasa Linga, the elaborately sculptured Gopurams, two of celebrated “secret” of Chidambaram. which contain the resplendent The Tiruvasi of Prabha (the glorious representation of the 108 poses taught in orb of the Sun), beautifully decorated with Natya (science of dance). strings of golden leaves, stands in front of Nataraja. The door steps are silver plated The Five Halls and bear an embossed representation of Patanjali and Vyagrapada. Within the walls of the temple there are Besides the temple of Nataraja there are five Sabhas or Halls, the most outstanding shrines dedicated to , Vishnu and among them being Raja Sabha (Royal Hall), Parvati. In the Govindaraja temple built by where triumphant Chola Kings used to hold Krishna Devaraya, a fine image of reclining

20 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Vishnu is found. The temple of Sivakami- injuries, and at the time of his death amma situated to the east of the 1000 requested Vishnu to name the place after pillared hall near the Siva Ganga tank has him, which was readily granted. a remarkable porch. The deity of Ganesha at Chidambararn is considered to be the Cholas as Great Temple-Builders largest figure of that God in the whole of India. Tanjore was annexed by the great Chola King, Vijaya Raja Chola in 850 from the hands of Mutharaya chiefs, and was made the capital of the Chola Empire. As great temple builders and valiant conquerors, Cholas have left their imperishable mark in the history of Tanjore. It was during the spell of Raja Raja Chola, that the fame, Brihadishwara glory and greatness of Tanjore reached its pinnacle. The Empire extended up to the Temple at Tanjore shores of Ganga in the north and to the island of in the south. The temple B. RADHAKRISHNA RAO of Brihadishwara is considered “ by far the grandest in India”, and is a grand testimony to the marvellous engineering skill of Chola The Culture of Kaveri architects. It is situated in the southern half of the small fort at Tanjore. IVER Kaveri, which has been fostering the culture and Legend and History R civilisation of Tamil Nadu from the very dawn of history, is being venerated Traditions and legends about the origin of as the Mother by the people of the South. the temple have been enumerated in Situated prominently in the delta of Kaveri, Brihadishwara Purana, which forms a part about 30 miles from the town of of Bavishyottara Purana. A local legend has Kumbakonam is Tanjore, which is famed for it that once the Chola King, Raja Raja was the magnificent shrine of Brihadishwara built suffering from a virulent type of leprosy. by the illustrious Chola Emperor, Raja Raja His spiritual preceptor suggested that he Chola. It is a fitting monument to the power, could get rid of the disease by building a prestige and splendid architectural temple to Lord Siva, in which a Linga imagination of the Cholas, who flourished brought from Narmada was to be installed. between the tenth and the fourteenth Accordingly, Raja Raja Chola proceeded to centuries. Narmada and brought the Linga. It is said Tradition has it that the place was named that after the Linga was taken out of the after a demon called Tanjan, who after water, it began to increase in size and giving a fight to Vishnu, sustained grievous therefore it came to be called Brihadishwara

21 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA (“ Brihat” meaning “big”). It took nearly the western end of the inner court twelve years to complete the construction measuring 500 ft. x 250 ft. The portals of of this tallest temple in South India. After the temple are guarded by huge Dwara the Linga of Brihadishwara was Palakas. Radiating lustre and purity all consecrated, a grand Kumbhabhishekam around in the sanctum stands the colossal was performed, after which the King had a Linga of Brihadishwara. The fascinating bath in the tank and was cured of his black features of this biggest Linga in India are leprosy, and he shone in lustre, white like the beauty of the Tilak mark and radiance moon. of its white garment. It is about 27 feet in The style of architecture used in the height and 7 feet in length. The Linga is construction of Brihadishwara temple known by various names like Peruvudayar, resembles the style employed in Adavalan and Dakshina Meru Vitankan. constructing the great Linga Raja temple The sight of the massive monolithic of Bubaneshwara. Built on the spoils of guarding the portals of the inner shrine is conquest, the shrine is an eloquent tribute awe-inspiring. This second largest image to the martial achievements of the Chola of the Bull in the country measures 12 feet’ Rulers. in height and 19 feet in length. It is said that this Nandi was growing imperceptibly Colossal Structure of the day by day, and in order to halt its growth a nail was driven in its back, which is seen The imposing, colossal structure of the even today. Vimana of the temple with its 14 storeys, The figures of the Sun and the Moon carved rising to a height of 269 feet, dominates on either side of the inner doorway to the the lush landscape all around. The sight of Maha Mantapam and those of and theVimana with small pillars, petty Saraswathi on the outside are captivating balconies and beautiful images carved for their sheer beauty. Besides the presiding around is striking. Deity, there are in the temple 252 Lingas. The stone crowning the crest of the Vimana Near the main temple there is an elegant below the spherical shaped is a shrine dedicated to Subrahmanya, which monolithic block estimated to weigh 80 is considered “a perfect gem of carved tons. This stone was moved into position stone-work, the tooling of the stone in the by means of an inclined starting at most elaborate patterns remaining as clear Sara Pallam village situated 4 miles to the as the day it left the sculptor’s hands.” It south. The Vimana is called “Dakshinameru” was built by the Nayak Rulers. on account of the sculptural depiction on The Goddess of the temple is Brihannayaki, it of Siva in the company of Parvati bearing and her shrine is located between Nandi a striking resemblance to the Puranic Mantapa and the main sanctum. It is said description of Siva seated with Parvati to have been constructed by a Pandyan presiding over the Mount of Meru. King in the 13th century. In the court of Facing east the temple consists of two the temple there are images of Ganesha, courts, with the main shrine standing at Nataraja and Chandeshwara.

22 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA The motifs of the sculpture in the temple are borrowed not only from the Saivite theme but also from Vaishnavite and Buddhistic mythologies. In the circumambulatory corridor a number of fresco- paintings of the Chola period similar to those at Ajanta were found some fifteen years back. They are well preserved under a thick layer of plasters used by later dynasties to cover the wall. The Siva Ganga Tank in the heart of Tanjore with its sweet, soothing water always The figure of Nataraja is considered to be attracts a large one of the best in south India. In the outer number of visitors and pilgrims. corridor of the temple there stands an array The festival of Krittika, coming off in the of , among which the idol of month of Kartikai is celebrated here with Jalahareshwar besmeared with sandal great eclat. However, the annual festival paste is most charming. of the temple falls in the month of Vaishaka when the drama of Rajarajeshwar is staged.

23 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA The Sri Aurobindo Ashram at Pondicherry PROF. MANOJ DAS

Pondicherry of Yore Lord Siva, was the presiding spirit of Veda HE most ancient Pondicherry lives in Puri by which name the present Pondicherry legends. One of these legends links was once known. An inscription found near Tthe place with the advent of the the Vedapurishwara temple introduces the great sage to the South. As is deity also as Agastiswara, the Lord of well-known, Agastya was obliged to Agastya. The tradition of Vedic studies in undertake the southward journey in order and around Pondicherry is affirmed by to check the Mount Vindhya from rising inscriptions found on another temple, too high and obstructing the passage of Tiruvandar Koil, near Pondicherry. the Sun. Agastya being his Guru, Vindhya Significant, too, are several sculptures and bowed to him. While blessing him, Agastya inscriptions found at Bahoor, close to instructed Pondicherry. The “Bahoor Plates” speak of the mountain to keep his head down till he a Vidyasthana - a University - returned from the South. But Agastya which was there in the 9th century and never returned. The South became the probably from an earlier period. The land of his spiritual and social activities. University hummed with prolific creative Folk-lore and myths attribute to him many activities and scholastic studies. a brave and noble deeds. There are two or This University belonged to the Pallava three places in the South claiming to have period. Several temples had been built been associated with Agastya. around Pondicherry during the 10th and Probably, Agastya had lived at all these 11th centuries by the Chola Kings. This places, at different times. But Pondicherry mystic spirit of Pondicherry has found a was traditionally a seat of learning and grand resurrection in the present century. Vedic culture. Such a tradition must have In education, culture and social developed from the presence of a great developments a new era has set in with Rishi in a remote past, surrounded by the merger of this erstwhile French Colony seekers and disciples. While legends trace with the independent Motherland. the origin of the tradition to the presence “Pondicherry has always been a connecting of Agastya, Prof. Jouveau-Dubreui, the link between Europe and India,” said Prof. French archaeologist, once said that he Jouveau-Dubreuil who was devoted to had reasons to believe that the Ashram of archaeological explorations in and around Agastya was situated on the very spot the city. where stands today the main building of It has now been well established that the Sri Aurobindo Ashram. place had a Roman settlement about 2000 One of the oldest deities worshipped at years ago. Excavations of Arikamedu, near Pondicherry is Vedapuriswara. The deity, 24 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Ariyan Kuppam, at the outskirts of the stay there, he was led, under ‘a similar present city, have shown the remains of a adesh, to Pondicherry, where he arrived Roman ware-house and an Emporium. on the 4th of April, 1910. Several items of historical interest including Pondicherry, in 1910, was a far cry from Roman lamps have been found too. what it is today. Only two or three persons possessed cars and the Governor of this The Advent of Sri Aurobindo and The “French India” was not one of these Mother fortunate few. He was seen moving about in a hand-pulled rickshaw. The French ruled Pondicherry from 1816 The town had only one three-storeyed to 1954, for a period of 138 years. It was building which belonged to Shankar Chetty. towards the close of this foreign rule that Sri Aurobindo was accommodated on the Pondicherry assumed the present greatness top floor of this house. Sri Aurobindo lived and became a pilgrim centre of the world in an austere way, with a few devotees of today. To be more precise, this new era around him, during the first phase of his in the life of Pondicherry began on 4th April, stay at Pondicherry. There was no Ashram 1910, with Sri Aurobindo setting foot on then. The Ashram, in fact, developed when this soil. the Mother came over to Pondicherry. Born The first son of Mother India to claim in France, the Mother, from her childhood, openly unconditional freedom for her, Sri was conscious of her spiritual mission on Aurobindo, in 1910, was at the zenith of earth. When she met Sri Aurobindo in 1914 his political renown when he suddenly on a visit to Pondicherry, she instantly knew disappeared from the scene. He had already that the vision and mission of both were spelt out the political programme which the same. went strong till India won independence: The Mother finally came over to Pondicherry Non-co-operation, Passive Resistance, in 1920. Ever since she has been there. Swadeshi, Boycott and National Education. The Ashram grew up in a most spontaneous In his seer vision he now saw India’s way. As the Ashramites put it - as the independence as certain. Mother came, the children gathered around The Government of British India was most her. In 1926, for reasons spiritual, it anxious to deport Sri Aurobindo, for, became necessary for Sri Aurobindo to go according to the Governor of Bengal and into complete seclusion. Since then the the Governor General of India, he was, “the Mother became the sale guide, the most dangerous man” in the whole country. inspiration and the source of all love and Accordingly they issued a warrant for a light which sustain the Ashram and which so-called seditious article in the reach innumerable people all over the Yogin, a paper edited by Sri Aurobindo. world. The world, evidently, is showing a But by then, guided by an adesh - Sri greater interest in Sri Aurobindo’s vision Aurobindo had already left for Chander day by day. Nagore, a French pocket on the , Sri Aurobindo visualised a new destiny for not far from Calcutta. After a few days’ man. He believed in evolution but with a

25 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA difference. The process of evolution was he carried on this most unusual spiritual mechanical, unconscious, till man evolved. exploration. But now, Sri Aurobindo says, in order that a more sublime race can evolve out of man, The Ashram man should consciously aspire for that. Sri Aurobindo Ashram, with over 1,500 The Vision of Sri Aurobindo inmates excluding the students of the Sri Aurobindo International Centre of Let us look at it a bit more closely. There Education, hums with activities. It is not was a time when all was Matter - vast to reject life, but to make it more beautiful expanse of lifeless Matter. As millions of and godly is the goal. “An eternal perfection years passed, Mother Earth perhaps felt is moulding us into its own image,” says Sri quite bored. Then life burst out of Matter. Aurobindo. Man, for the most part What a rich manifestation of life was there! unconsciously though, is striving to reflect Innumerable types of planets cropped up. that image of perfection in his own being, They were so different from dead Matter. maturing through many a struggle, Green and beautiful, they grew up and up experiences happy and sad, and through as though looking for more and more light. sublime inspirations of rare moments. When Millions of years passed. It was time for man is conscious of this process at work, some new Manifestation. This time, out of naturally his progress becomes rapid. There life came a spark of Mind. With this new is no facet of life, no sphere of work, which element Nature carried on her experiment cannot be covered by a spiritual attitude in a large scale, bringing forth thousands and which cannot serve as a spring board of kinds of animals. for a higher life. But it was a very elementary quality of All the inmates of the Ashram work, but Mind which was there in the animals. The they do not do so with the purpose of working of the Mind in them was instinctive. meeting their personal needs. Work is a Now the Mind developed further, rather it part of their . Besides, work is revolutionised itself. There appeared Man, body’s best prayer to the Divine, the the full being of the Mind. Sri Aurobindo Mother has said. There are agricultural foresaw the next phase of this evolutionary lands, industries, Printing Presses and many process. The process had not ended with other institutions to provide an opportunity the coming of Man. Mind, the cardinal to the inmates to work with such an quality of Man, must be surpassed. Out of attitude. Mental man will evolve the Supra mental No racial bar or religious creed has any being. place in the Ashram life. All that matters is Sri Aurobindo knew that he was destined the faith in the Supreme’s Grace and an to pave the way for the advent of the era inspiration to spiritualise life. Among the of the Super Mind. It required a mighty inmates of the Ashram there are people effort, of tremendous concentration. from almost every part of the world. The Pondicherry was the place chosen where life of these seekers of truth are marked

26 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA by an inner discipline and aspiration. experts try to achieve a synthesis between Although there are a few external rules to the eastern and the western methods of govern their life, accent is laid on the inner exercises and gymnastics. development. Four times a year Mother used to give Auroville darshan to the people - on the 21st of February (Her Birth Day), the 24th of April On the 28th of February, 1968, a boy and (the day She finally came to Pondichery), a girl representing each country of the the 15th of August (Sri Aurobindo’s Birth world poured handsful of earth from the Day) and the 24th November (the day of a various countries into a huge concrete great spiritual realisation in the askesis of lotus-bud a few miles away from the Sri Aurobindo and the Mother). Now that Ashram. That was the ceremony marking the Mother has left Her body, colIective the foundation of Auroville. Auroville is meditation takes place on these days, along situated at the outskirts of Pondicherry, with a visit to Sri Aurobindo’s Room. on the Bay of Bengal, with lands belonging to both Pondicherry and Tamil Nadu. The Centre of Education The term Auroville, while it means the City of Dawn, also denotes its dedication to Sri The Sri Aurobindo International Centre of Aurobindo, whose vision of the evolution Education is a part of the Ashram. Here of man and of human unity the city intends care is taken to see that the pupils develop to manifest. all aspects of their personality and learn “There should be somewhere upon earth a for the joy of learning and become daring place that no nation can claim as the sole in their quest for truth. Emphasis is given property, a place where all human beings on the peculiar requirement of each of good will, sincere in their aspiration, could individual pupil. No examination in the live freely as citizens of the world, obeying conventional sense of the term is one single authority, that of the Supreme conducted. The focus is on the child’s free Truth, a place of peace, concord, harmony, choice of subjects. There are nearly two where all fighting instinct of man would be hundred teachers for about seven hundred used exclusively to conquer the causes of pupils. his sufferings and miseries, to surmount The International Centre of Education his weakness and ignorance, to triumph makes an effort at imparting integral over his limitations and incapacities; a place education. Circumstance is created and where the needs of the spirit and the care provisions are made for the child to be for progress would get over the satisfaction trained in all the parts of his being, physical, of desires, passions, the seeking for mental, vital (relating to the life forces, material pleasures and enjoyment. ...” emotions, impulses etc.) and psychic. Great This had been written by the Mother more importance is given to physical education. than half a century ago. After her dream The department of physical education is a had been realised to a considerable degree dynamic section of the Ashram, where in the Ashram, she thought that time had

27 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA

come for expanding the scope of the engineers and architects and experts of experiment, and in 1964, at the World various sorts. But all are conscious that Conference of Sri Aurobindo Society, the they are required to mould and change idea of Auroville was given to the themselves, first of all in order to be delegates. Aurovillians. It will be a place where there The launching of Auroville was an adventure will be no exploitation, no private property, in no uncertain sense of the term. All that although there will be complete individual the pioneers were able to say was, there freedom of thought and cultural pursuit. is enough good will in the world - let us Each inhabitant will contribute to the life dedicate ourselves to work out the vision of the community according to his capacity and let us see! and inspiration. The progress of Auroville has been steady. The township will have four Zones: Union In order to appreciate the progress one of Zone, with international pavilions, congress course should remember that it is not simply halls, etc., Cultural Zone, with school, building up a township, it is in fact, building theatre, studies, stadiums etc., Work Zone, up man. Participating in the building of with industries, laboratories, administrative Auroville are about 200 youths from various offices etc. and Residential Zone, with countries of the world. Then, there are homes and super-markets etc.

28 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA It will accommodate 50,000 residents, the body on 5th December, 1950. His optimum population for harmonious urban Collaborator in the Supramental Yoga, the development. Gardens will form a dominant Mother, carried on His work. Innumerable feature of the city which will have a people looked upon Her as the Divine concentric architectural design. Mother and found in Her the sure source At the moment Auroville possesses about of strength and light. 2,000 acres of land. Most of them lay barren for ages. Under the intense care of the Aurovillians a great part of the area has proved highly productive. The UNESCO General Conference commended Auroville calling upon its member- states to participate in the project. In response several countries have offered The Mother left Her body on 17th November, to build their pavilions there. 1973. But the guiding force of the Master A huge structure approaching completion and the Mother is most concretely present is Bharat Nivas or the Indian Pavilion, which and can be felt by all who look forward to will exhibit the variety of true Indian a spiritual future. Pondicherry continues culture. Another impressive building is Matri to attract, more and more, day by day, Mandir, a centre for meditation. the attention of the seekers from all over Youths from many countries look upon the world. At the physical level, streams Auroville as a symbol of new hope and new of people pay their homage to Sri Aurobindo civilisation. Even at this initial stage it is and the Mother at their flower-bedecked already an example to show that man can inside the main building of the get over his racial, religious and cultural Ashram. limitations and live harmoniously and work together when he is inspired by the call of a great tomorrow. Sri Aurobindo left His

29 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Kaveri devotion, graced him with a vision of His form, and directed him to build a temple The Stream of Overflowing on the banks of Kaveri, at Tiruvarur. Devotion and Rippling Music Muchukunda built the temple according to the Lord’s decree, with the help of HE name of Kaveri brings at once to Viswakarma, the architect of the Gods. the mind the vision of a coy and Unable to find a suitable image to preside Tblushing maiden. River Kaveri justifies at the sanctum, Muchukunda requested the vision. She is a picture of beauty and Indra to give him the image of Sri grace, utterly feminine in her moods, now Thyagarajaswami that was in his gentle and sweet, now terrible and roaring, possession. Indra, unwilling to part with playful and coy, sweet ‘and serene. Thus the lovely image, yet unable to refuse she flows, the beauteous bride in her Muchukunda, placed it in a row with six graceful meandering gait, bedecked with other images of similar excellence. But flowers that her devotees sprinkle from Muchukunda rightly chose the Thyagaraja either banks, to the accompaniment of the image, guided by the inner grace of Lord music of cuckoos and rustling leaves, a Siva, and brought it to Tiruvarur and devotional child washing the feet of the consecrated it in the temple, where Lords on her way, seeking their blessing as Thyagarajaswami is worshipped in great she joins her Lord, the sea. As Raja devotion, to this day. Rajeswari, the Divine Mother of her children, The Raja Gopuram, the main turret, rises the devotees on her banks, she blesses majestically to the towering height of 846 them all with her grace. feet, magnificent and beautiful, decked Situated on the banks of this silvery stream with lovely idols. This Gopuram is made is the temple of Sri Thyagarajaswami, one entirely of brick and mortar. The Devaranya of the seven celebrated centres of the Deity Mantapam in the temple abounds in in Tamil Nadu, where devotees pour in large beautiful paintings. numbers to have a glimpse of their beloved The Nandi in this temple is carved with a Lord. human form, decked with a snake (Nagabharana), matted locks and a Kamalalayam crescent moon. The Navagrahas or the presiding deities of the nine planets, are This ancient and magnificent shrine is also placed in a row facing the Deity, contrary known as “Poonga Koil” or “Kamalalayam“ to the traditional arrangement found in other because of the large tank situated to its temples. west, which abounds in lotus flowers. The birth of the temple is attributed to Siva and Vishnu Muchukunda, the Chola King, who after defeating the demons at the request of Though Lord Siva as Thyagarajaswami is Indra, worshipped Lord Siva, beseeching the presiding Deity of this temple, the Him to appear. Siva, pleased with his deep Utsava Murthy, the Deity taken in

30 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA procession is considered to be “Upasana banks, and the trees rustle in step and Murthy” of Lord Vishnu, on whose breath where the atmosphere is charged with the former is believed to have danced. Music,-developcd into a deep devotee of There are a number of tanks in and around the Lord and of Music. His Music is an the temple, but “Kamalalayam”, situated inseparable mixture of devotion, lyric and to the west of the temple, brimming with rhythm, and his life is one long pilgrimage beautiful lotus flowers, is the most dedicated to the Lord. Graced with the important one ‘among them, and is benevolent glance of Sri Thyagarajaswami, considered to be the biggest tank in South infused by an unfathomable depth of India. devotion, he sang his songs in a trance- like state, where the Lord alone existed, The Chola King’s Dedication where the trivial sufferings, sorrows and pleasures of the mortal world could not The Chola Kings have ruled over this area penetrate. No wonder, that this place which for a very long time. An incident is narrated bore such a great son, and which houses that during the reign of Manu Chola who, such a Divine presence, draws to its bosom was the embodiment of virtue and justice, lakhs of devotees. The Lord is inseparable his son once ran the Chariot over a young from art-forms. So is it difficult to analyse calf, which died. The mother of the calf, the devotion of the pilgrims that pour into mooing in distress, sought justice from the this place and to establish where love of King, and he, to render justice, ran a Lord ends and love of Music starts, or vice Chariot himself, over his son. The Gods, versa. pleased with his unswerving dedication to “If Tiruvarur, his birth place, was an ancient justice, gave life to the calf as well as his Kshetra, renowned for its traditions, son. This episode, narrated beautifully in Saints, Devotees and Musicians, Silappadikaram and , is Tiruvayyaru or Pancha Nada, was a place depicted on the temple walls, in beautiful of no less sanctity and tradition of learning paintings. Tiruvarur, the abode of Sri and spirituality. If the land of five rivers in Thyagarajaswami, is associated with Music, the North proved a fertile soil for the from time immemorial. From the Musical creative output of Vedic Rishis, this land Sundara Murthi Nayanar to the Music of the five rivers in the South was not less Trinity of South India, viz., Syama Sastri, productive of poets, philosophers, saints Muthuswami and Thyagaraja, the and musicians. Born at Tiruvarur, town had been the proud permeator of a Thyagaraja was brought up on the sacred long line of great Musicians. soil of the Pancha Nada Kshetra, Tiruvayyaru.” The Devotee and the Deity Thyagaraja His songs-liltingly lyrical, deeply devotional and melodiously” musical (with Bhakti, Thyagaraja - born in this place of vibrant Bhava and Raga blended)-exhort the human music, where Kaveri flows in lilting tunes, mind to seek the Lord. When he undertook cuckoos singing accompaniment on her a pilgrimage in the later part of his life

31 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA extending from Tirupathi in the North to Madurai - The Temple Srirangam in the South, he sang in entranced devotion all his way exuberantly that Houses the Mother praising the presiding deities of all the temples he visited. These songs tell one of the true purpose of a pilgrimage, coming he Concept of the Supreme as right from the heart of a man who suffered, Mother MAN is basically an idoliser. yet remained unaffected by the sufferings, TThis instinct of his resulted in the seeing and seeking only the Lord. In necessary creation of symbols. The Tirupathi, when Thyagaraja entered the primitive man, more than his modern, more sanctum, it was just the time of the mid- sophisticated brethren, felt strongly the noon offering for the Lord and the curtain presence of the Divine power, as he was was drawn. Standing before the curtain most natural in His feelings and reacted that hid the Lord’s image from his sight, he easily. From his simple nature and his simple sings his song, and the curtain promptly mind that reacted strongly to withdraws. circumstances evolved the numerous This true spirit of pilgrimage is in all those deities in their numerous forms and moods. lakhs of devotees who pour into Tiruvarur When he as sober and peaceful, he created and Tiruvayyaru with no earthly desires, his God as an embodiment of sobriety. What no mundane motive behind the pilgrimage. he was angry, or frightened there came They come to see Thyagaraja, the Deity out of his anger the, Ugra aspect of Gods. and Thyagaraja, the Devotee, who have But through all these moods, he always now become one, to stand on the earth felt the presence of the omnipotent, and that echoes Music, to feel the air that is the awareness has lent the quality of alive with the blended fragrance of divinity divinity to all his concepts. and devotion, where Art, Music, Culture In Shakti he idolised his mother. To this and Philosophy blend in the vibrant notes primitive child, she was the all-powerful of “ AUM “ and become one with Divinity. one, and embodiment of a soul nourishing At he sang to , love side by side with all-consuming wrath. consort of the presiding deity, Thyagaraja- And she is the mother, whose wrath neither swami: disgusted him nor frightened him; it only “Oh, my Mother, I have today achieved held him spell-bound in a mixture of feeling the purpose of life in that I have feasted comprised of awe, respect, devotion and my eyes with your Darsan and stand in total submission. Her wrath did not give the position of a poverty-stricken man him false emotions of insecurity. It assured coming by wealth, and of withering crops him, on the other hand, of her omnipresence suddenly getting water.” and the fact that she cared. So he put his - Reproduced from: The Spiritual Heritage concept into shape, as stated, to remind of Thyagaraja, article “Tiruvarur” by Sri his brothers and sisters of her presence, Deepak Kamath. her love, grace and wrath.

32 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA

The towering Grand Gopurams of Madurai Meenakshi temple

33 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Incarnation of Shakti in a temple, the King found a serpent of enormous size, lying coiled up around the The temple of Goddess Meenakshi in spot. The area bound by the serpent Madurai is a remarkable example that (Halasya) has become the area of Madhura shaped itself out of the myriad emotions (Madurai) town, and the place where the of the human mind and the resultant serpent’s head and tail met was chosen concepts. Mother Meenakshi, though an for the sacred spot for the temple to be incarnation of Shakti (who is essentially built. Goddess Meenakshi is believed the Goddess of fury), is conceived as to have been born as the daughter of the Mother in her loving mood, and the image, Pandya King, and Shiva as Sundareswara, carved out of black stone, signified all that married her. is graceful, benevolent and beautiful. Her Usually, Lord Nataraja dances balancing wide large eyes, comparable to those of a himself on his left leg, but at Velliambalam fish (from which she derives the name in Madurai Nataraja dances balancing on Meenakshi) bestows her grace and love the right leg, and it is believed that he did upon her devotees and feeds their souls, so in order to please his devotee, King Raja much like the mother fish which feeds its Sekhara Pandya. One of the famous Shakti young with its glance alone. In the famous peethas, Madurai enshrines Mother hymn to Mahadevi she is revered as the Meenakshi to whose feet flock devotees Eswari, the highest being, then as Ganga, from all corners of the country. Single- , Lakshmi ; and it is said that minded devotees have felt the exhilarating she dwells in all beings of the world in the presence of Mother Meenakshi in the form of peace, power, beauty, reason, atmosphere. memory, professional competence, abundance, mercy, humility, hunger, sleep, Guided Tour of the Temple faith and consciousness, and it is added that she also dwells in each creature in The temple buildings occupy an area of the form of error. 830 feet by 730 feet. The central shrines are those of Meenakshi and her spouse Halasya Purana Sundareswara. On the massive outer walls stand the four gopurams or towers, the The Kshetra of Madura is famous through tallest of which is the South Gopuram which the Puranas as Halasya Kshetra. A is 1609" high the visitor enters by the Ashta merchant called Dhananjaya, on his way Sakthi Mantaparn, the Mudali Mantapam to the capital saw in a forest a Swayarnbhu which is the Eastern gate. Passing through Linga being worshipped by Indra. The King the Mudali Mantapam, one sees flanking was informed of this, and that night in his monoliths carved with great spirit. From dream, Shiva as Sundareswara, dripping there can be seen the Potramarai Tank, (Madhuram ) from his matted locks, which is surrounded by a pillared colonnade appeared before him. When he went to from where there is a fine view of the golden the spot to claim the Linga for consecration roofs of the two great inner shrines. The

34 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA walls of the colonnade carry paintings which I have seen.” This hall dates from the depict the super-human deeds performed middle of the sixteenth century. by Siva. Thirumala Nayak’s outstanding work on the temple is the Pudu Mantapam. The From Pavilion to Pavilion rectangular porch is 333 feet by 105 feet and has a roof of granite supported by After ablutions in the tank, the worshipper four parallel rows of 124 sculptured stone proceeds to a pavilion, the “Yali Mantapam” pillars, each 20 feet high and no one pillar (named after gargoyle-like carved stone duplicating the design of another. pillars which support the roof). This is also called Kili Mantapam or Parrot Pavilion The Unfinished Raja Gopuram because of votive offerings of parrots in cases which are hung from the ceiling. This Coming out of the temple through the East Pavilion leads to the Meenakshi shrine, gate we see it surmounted by the Raya where the Image of the Presiding Deity has Gopuram, a magnificent structure that was inspired some of the most beautiful and not completed. The lowest storey of this moving Tamil poetry. After worship at the tower occupies more than twice the space shrine, we pas through a gate surmounted covered by any other gopuram and the by Nadukkattu or the middle gopuram. A sculptured figures are cut deeper and are mammoth idol of Ganesha greets us on the richer in design. The door-posts are way to the shrine of Sundareswara. monoliths 50 feet high and 3 feet square Then there are Pavilions, where on festive carved with exquisite scrolls of foliage. Had occasions, decorated images are installed all the storeys been built on the same scale and great congregations gather to worship and design, this would have been the most and to listen to sacred music or religious magnificent temple tower in all India. discourses. Around the flag-staff is the Kambattadi Koodal Alagar Temple Mantapam, which is one of the greatest triumphs of cultural skill. The elaborate The Koodal Alagar Temple is as old as carvings here evoke wonder and admiration. Madurai itself and claims greater antiquity East of this Pavilion is the Viravasantaraya than Madurai’s famous Meenakshi Temple. Mantapam built early in the seventeenth It is in the heart of the city, two furlongs century by Muthuveerappa. To the South from the railway station and the central is the Kalyana Mantapam renovated in bus stand. At this shrine the Lord Vishnu recent times by the Nagarathars. is depicted in three forms, Ninra Thirukolam The Thousand-pillared Mantapam lies to the (Standing), Amarnatha Thirukolam (Sitting) North and Fergusson, the historian of and Kidantha Thirukolam (Resting). This is Indian architecture, calls it “the wonder of a rare phenomenon which makes the the place” and says of the sculptures there temple distinctive. that they “surpass those of any other hall The word Koodal implies a conjunction of things or an assembly. Lord Vishnu is known

35 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA as Koodal Alagar, Alagar meaning beauty. Palani It is said that the warrior Oomadurai sought sanctuary inside this temple when he was chased by his enemies. His pursuers then attacked the temple. Several round shots in the outer wall of the temple are said to UBRAHMANYA or Lord Muruga is the support this story. deity beloved of the people of South The temple has been acclaimed as a great SIndia, especially Tamil Nadu and shrine by the and is reckoned as Kerala ; and Palani, the abode of Lord important among the hundred and eight Muruga is greatly revered by all. A Tirupathis. The central shrine is unfinished. pilgrimage to this place is considered as a One of the interesting features of this “must” by every family and many make an temple is the pierced granite windows offering of the hair of their crown to the which light the passage round the shrine, God here as they do at Tirupathi. each different and delicately designed. They are miracles of the stone mason’s Bala Subrahmanya art and provide for light and air in an ingenious and beautiful way. One of the six important abodes of Lord Muruga, Palani enshrines Him as Bala Teppakulam Subrahmanya, the child Muruga. The legend relating to the origin of the shrine says The Teppakulam is in the south-east of that once Lord Siva and Parvathi found a Madurai City. It is almost a perfect square, rare fruit, which they showed to Ganesha 1,100 feet by 950 feet. Nayak and Muruga, mentioning it as the prize to built the granite step leading down to the be won by him who came first completing tank, and the small but extremely elegant a round of the Universe. Muruga at once shrine is in the centre of the tank. set out on his peacock, while Ganesha In January-February a colourful “float- stayed back, performing a “pradakshina” festival” is held here to synchronise with or circumambulation round his parents. He the birth anniversary of Tirumala Nayak. explained that such a movement around The deities Meenakshi and Sundareswarr the “Adi Dampatis” in whom the entire are placed in a gaily decorated float, Universe rests was equivalent to going illuminated with hundreds of lamps and round the Universe. Pleased with his wit, taken round the tank to the sound of the parents gave away the prize to traditional music. Ganesha. Extracted from :- Know Madurai-T.v.S. When Muruga returned and found what happened, he got angry as is natural with a child who is deprived of a prize and went away to Siva Giri, which was near Palani, ldumban’s Feat The great Sage Agastya who prayed to Lord Siva and got the divine

36 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA couple to take ‘abode on the two hills, Siva healing powers. The deity is bathed daily Giri and Sakti Giri, took their leave to in different substances, such as Gingelly remove the hills to his own abode at Podikai oil, powder, powder, hills. He directed his disciple Idumban to Panchamrutam - which includes honey and carry the two mountains on a Kavadi (two milk, tender cocoanut water or any fruit baskets hung on ropes on either side of a juice, Rose water, sandal paste and Vibhuti. stick) to Podikai hills, and Idumban rested AI! these substances offered in Abhishekam on his way to Podikai hill at Palani, and it are received back as the Lord’s prasadam was here that Lord Muruga came and having super normal curative powers. The stationed himself on Siva Giri. Lord Siva material of the image looks corroded and it appeased him by saying that as Muruga is believed that in the ancient times the Himself was the Fruit, there is no need for him to aspire for any other fruit. When Idumban lifted the Kavadi after his rest he found the basket with Siva Giri heavier and, upon enquiry found Subramanya on top: whom he challenged. Lord Muruga killed him, but later, upon the entreaties of Idumban’s wife and Sage Agastya He restored him back to life. Idumban prayed to the Lord begging His forgiveness and requested to be allowed to stay at the door step of Muruga’s abode as guard. This legend is depicted at the Sakti Hill temple where Idumban is seen praying to Lord Muruga. The Palani temple is situated on the Palani hill-top, at a height of 450 feet. The temple is not famous for architectural or archaeological value, but the shrine is revered for its great sanctity and the deity for his healing grace. Siddha Vaidyas of the area scraped off from Miraculous Powers of the Deity it the substance of their medicines. A tunnel is seen at the shrine of Nava Durga The image looks as if made of wax and it is in the south west corridor in the inner believed to be an alloy of nine different quadrangle. Near this is the shrine of Sage substances. The proportions in which these Bhoga, who is believed to have made the are mixed remains unknown, but any image of Lord Muruga. The tunnel in the substance that comes into contact with sanctum of the Nava Durga temple is the image is believed to acquire miraculous believed to be the one, into which the Sage

37 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA retired after he had completed the image Kanchi: The Golden City and never returned. This tunnel is believed to lead into the sanctum of Dandayadhapani Of Temples as Lord Muruga is known at Palani.

Palani Panchamrutam The City’s Central Importance

The main ingredient used for Abhisheka is ANCHI stands foremost among the Panchamrutam, made of plantains, , seven Sacred Cities of India. The honey, cane jaggery and sugar candy. Kgreat Kalidasa has spoken of this Though such perishables as plantains are city as the best among cities. added, the panchamrutam does not get “Pushpeshu Jaaji , Purusheshu Vishnu putrified and can be preserved for years. Nadeeshu Ganga, Nagareshu Kanchi” This quality is said to be acquired by the The great Vaishnava Panchamrutam by its coming into contact Desika (1268-1370) has called it the “City with the body of the icon. Incomparable”. With its hoary tradition of A noteworthy feature of the shrine here is culture, philosophy, music and fine arts, that it is sacred not only to the , Kanchi is indeed a rich treasure-house of but also to the . The Muslims monumental art. worship Muruga in this temple as “Palani Ancient literature and inscriptions refer to Baba,” and offer prayers to Him in the the city by various names as Kanchi, corridor at the back of the temple. Kancheepuram, Kancheepuri, etc. It is also known as “Satya ”, a place Harmonising Two Faiths dedicated to the “vow of truth”. The most popular name, however, is Kancheepuram. Thus stands this shrine of Muruga Tamil Saints have called it Kachchi in their harmonising two faiths and establishing the numerous works. supremacy of the Divine as the one Power. Muruga is thus the beloved Lord of grace Ancient Glory who relieves all kinds of sufferings and sorrows of devotees. Pilgrims from all over Famous through the ages, this ancient city South India and even from other parts pour has been a great seat of learning, and the into this sacred town to worship birth- place of many renowned saints, “Dandhayudhapani” and get their lives devotees, artists, politicians, musicians, sanctified. philosophers and savants. Chanakya, the Courtesy :-Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan : great king-maker and author of the Immortal India. Arthasastra, and Sri Syama Sastri, one of the three great architects of , were both born here. Indeed, the land of Kanchi, called Tondaiman Mandalam, contains the source -springs of devotion,

38 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA piety, integrity, righteousness, valour, hard and in South India generally, when there work, and such other excellences as was a great awakening among the Hindus revealed in ancient Tamil works. The annals under the leadership of the Vaishnavite of India pay a high tribute to the ancient Alvars, and Saivaite Nayanmars. glory of this city. The Tondaimans, the Palla The lack of royal patronage for vas, the Cholas, the rulers of Vijayanagar under the Pallavas, Cholas and the have played a significant role in the growth Vijayanagar Kings greatly undermined the and development of this region. vitality and popularity of this religion. The history of Kanchi can be traced back However, sporadic groups preaching the to several centuries before the advent of principles of Buddha-a Dharma continued the Christian era. The place finds its name to be active till the end of the 13th century in Patanjali’s Maha Bhashya, written in the A.D. During the 7th century A.D. there were 2nd century B.C. Manimekalai, a famous a few Buddhist , Viharas ‘ in the city. Tamil classic, and Perum-panatrupadai, a Bhikkhus held discourses in these Viharas, great Tamil poetical work, vividly describe which were visited by Buddhists from other the city as it was at the beginning of the countries. Kanchi is proud of producing Christian era. Tondaiman Ilanthiraiyan, the Dignaga, Bodhi Dharma and Dharmapala, hero of Perum-panatrupadai, was ruling who set high standards in the study of over Kanchi during the 2nd century A.D. Buddhistic learning. Acharya Dignaga also He was himself a great poet, and had served the University with extended his patronage and hospitality to distinction. He was well-versed in a large number of poets and bards. Mahayana and Hinayana systems, and Perumpanatrupadai refers to the Vishnu wrote many standard works which are temple at Thiruvehka, now known as Sri admired by the Chinese and the Japanese Yathokthakari Swami temple. It was at the even today. time of Tondaiman Ilanthiraiyan that a big The Chinese respect Bodhidharma as the irrigation lake was constructed at his wish founder of the Dhyana system of Buddhist at a place 14 miles north-east of Kanchi. philosophy, which is known in Japan as the The lake and the adjacent village are called Zen system, and he is greatly revered Tenneri. A Pallava epigraph refers to the there. Dharmapala also belonged to Kanchi. lake a ‘Thiraiyaneri’, meaning Thiraiyan’s He abandoned worldly life in his youth and lake. became a great teacher at Nalanda. He is BUDDHISM the author of many works on Buddhistic logic and metaphysics. Yuan Chang, the great Buddhist scholar from China, visited the city and has JAINISM recorded that Buddhism in the city was as old as Buddha himself. There is clear Tirupparuthikunram, a suburb of Kanchi, evidence to show that Buddhism took deep lying on the southern banks of the roots in Kanchi about the 1st century A.D. Vegavati, has long been known as Jaina- Its influence began to decline in Kanchi Kanchi. (The place is at the south-west

39 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA

Kanchi Kamakshi Temple

corner of the city, and is about 2 ½ miles structures to the Jain temples of Kanchi. from the Railway station). The place has Sri Akalanga Jina Guru is said to have become a strong-hold of the Jains of the defeated the Buddhists in a discourse here, sect. This religion did not enjoy and laid the foundations for Jainism on a royal patronage or public support; but the firm basis. followers of Jainism were strong and determined in their faith, and their de AND SAIVISM cendants still live in this locality. The Jains while propagating their religion, made Kanchi is regarded as one of the three most notable contributions to literature and important centres of Vaishnavism: philosophy, in general. Mallisena Srirangam, Thirumalai (Tirupathi ) and Suri, who lived at about the beginning of Kancheepuram, commonly called in Tamil the 14th century, was greatly revered by as “Koil”, “” and “Perumal Koil” all the Jains in Tiruparuthikunram. respectively. Mallisena’s great disciple, Pushpasena Some include also Thirunarayanapuram in proved a worthy disciple of his master, and Mysore as the fourth Vaishnava centre, he has also given of his best to enrich the and pay homage to Kancheepuram as one literature of his period. His influence with of the four big Vaishnava centres. From Irugappa, the great Minister of Vijayanagar, wherever he is, every devout Vaishnava resulted in some renovations and new

40 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA prays to the presiding Lords of these the founder of Sri Mutt, have lived places, three times a day. here for study and devotion. Sri Manavala Saint Poigai Alvar, the first of the first three Mamunigal, another great Acharya from Alvars, was born here. The great Srirangam, had also visited this place. Vaishnavite teacher and reformer, Sri Parimel Azhagar, the immortal commentator Ramanuja, who was born in of Thirukkural, was the son of an Archaka nearby, spent his early years in Kanchi, of the Ulagalandar Temple here. and had his early education here and Nayanmars - devotees of Lord Siva - have offered his worship at the feet of Lord praised the Lord here in their beautiful Varadaraja. The fourth of the twelve Alvars hymns, called . Sri Sundara - Sri Thirumazhisai Alvar lived here for a Murthi Nayanar regained his sight here. It considerable period and his devotion to the was here that Saint Pattinathadigal poured Lord at Thiruvehka (Sri Yathokthakari) was out his divine songs in praise of Lord so great that the Lord as “Bhakta Ekarnbaranatha. Sri Tirukkurippu Thondar Paradheena” - implicitly did what the Alvar and Sakya Nayanar attained their salvation requested him to do and so earned the here. Kanchi is very important to Saivites name “Yathokthakari”. Sri Alavandar, one as one of the first of the five most leading of the greatest of the Sri Vaishnava Saivite centres, the Prithivi Kshetram. The Acharyas, stayed here, dedicating himself hymns of Sri Thirunavukkarasar, Sri to service at the feet of Sri Varadaraja. Thirugnana Sambandar and Sri Some are of the opinion that the very first Pattinathadigal praise the Lord here in a ten stanzas of Saint , the superb manner. foremost of the Alvars, refer to Lord Sri It was here that Srimat Adisankaracharya Varadaraja of this place. Again it was here established the Kamakoti Peetham. that Saint Thirumangai Alvar, the last of Manimekalai, the heroine of one of the five the Alvar, got a divine treasure to enable epics of Tamil, sought salvation here him to continue his daily poor-feeding. through her service to humanity. The great Tamil works, Sri Skanda Puranam The hymn of the Alvars and Kanchi Puranam were composed and (Divya Prabandham) recited first here. Sri Thyagaraja also has sung about Lord Varadaraja and Goddess In praise of the presiding deities here are Kamakshi Devi. This is also the birth-place an eternal source of inspiration to all. This of the great famous historian, Chanakya is the place where the great devotee Sri (also called Kautilya) of the . Thirukkachi Nambi, an elder contemporary of Sri Ramanuja, spent his life in the service of Lord Varadaraja and learnt the six great principles of Visishtadvaita Philosophy directly from Lord Varadaraja Himself. Numerous other saints and devotees like Sri Thatha Desikan, Sri Nadadur Ammal, and

41 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA for worship in this temple, that of the THE TEMPLES presiding deity (Lord Varadaraja) on Hasti OF KANCHI Giri (elephant hill), Lord Yoga- in a cave below Hasti Giri and Sri Perun Devi Thayar, the consort of Lord Varadaraja. amous as one of the Saptapuris or There are five prakaras or circumambulating seven sacred cities of India, paths going around the temple, surrounded FKanchipurarn is the dream-city for finally by a very high compound wall, the the pilgrim and the artist alike, where whole construction occupying an area of temples abound, and their presiding deities about 23 acres. Within the first prakara is provide solace to thirsting hearts and found a mantapam of 100 pillars, decorated pilgrims from all faiths; and art-lovers find with beautiful architectural designs. The that they have here a veritable feast of circular jointless rings forming a chain sculpture awaiting them. carved out of a single stone are marvellous as a rare sculptural feat. The , Sri Varadaraja Swami Temple called the Ananta Tirtham is on the north side of this mantapam. Lord Sri Attigiri This temple is the most famous of the eighteen Tirupathis praised by the Alwars, where the presiding deity is Sri Varadaraja Swami, the Lord who blessed Sri Thirukkachi Nambi with the celebrated “six words” proding a gist of the Visishtadvaita Philosophy. This temple, a grand and imposing edifice with its main entrance on the western side, crowned by a towering gopuram, is a marvel of architectural beauty. On the eastern side there is another gopuram, more imposing and majestic than its western counterpart. There are three shrines

42 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Varadaraja lies immersed in the waters of When Brahma concluded his yaga, Vishnu this tank, and is taken out once in a emerged in the form of Sri Varadaraja, and generation to be worshipped by the stayed on in that spot to bless his devotees devotees. Within this prakara are a number for many Yugas to come, upon the request or shrines for the Alvars and a large flower- of Brahma, and on this spot He is garden with a varied number of sweet- worshipped to this day as Varadaraja scented flowering plants. Swami. Ascending twenty-four steps to reach Hasti In the month of Thai (January) Palaya Giri, one comes upon the sanctum of Lord Seevaram Parivettai with the floating Varadaraja. The image in the sanctum is festival in the temple tank is observed. facing west looking upon the entire town On important days of every month with His benevolent gaze caressing His thereafter, like Makham, Panguni devotees and showering His blessings upon Uttiram, Chithrai, Vaisakha Pournami, Ani them. The Brahmotsavam and Utsavam, Thiru Adi Pooram, Avani Garudotsavam are the chief festivals Pournami, Krishna Jayanti (September), performed in this temple, drawing lakhs of Mahalaya Amavasya, up to Vijaya Dasami pilgrims from all over India. (October), Iyppasi Mulam, Deepavali, and An account of the genesis of the shrine Karthigai in November and Pagal Pathu (the can be spotted in the Brahmanda Purana. ten diurnal) and Ra-pathu (the ten Brahma, the Creator, having incurred some nocturnal) festivals (December), are all mental pollution, stopped his work of observed on a grand scale with pomp and creation and started a penance on the ceremony, attracting large number of banks of the holy river Ganges. An pilgrims. Asareeravani (bodiless voice), instructed him to perform 1,000 yajnas (sacrifices), Sri Yathokthakari Temple to overcome the pollution. Since the performance of 1,000 yajnas could not be The Sthala Purana of the temple is the completed in his life-time Brahma chose same account as that relating to Sri the Satya Vratha Kshetram, where one Varadaraja Swami. At the conclusion of the yajna performed would be equivalent to Yagam performed by Brahma, it is said that 1,000 yajnas. Brahma’s consort, the Lord, who appeared as Yathokthakari Saraswathi was angry with him at the time, in the beginning of the Yaga to arrest it is said, and with a view to frustrating Vegavathi, appeared from the as Sri the purpose of the yajna, tried to flood Raja Perumal. Thus the twin temples the area by taking shape as River Vegavathi of Sri Yathokthakari and Sri Deva Raja Peru and flowing through the region. Brahma mal have come to stay at Kanchi. The prayed to Lord Vishnu to save the legend accounting for the name situation, upon which Vishnu came down Yathokthakari (one who did as was bidden) in the form of ‘Yathokta Kari Perumal’, and - “ Vannam Seith a Perumal” - is a laid himself across the path of the river, popular one among the folks of Kanchi. flat and nude, thus arresting its course.

43 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA During the service of Thirumazhisai Alvar his head to the south, in reversed position, in the temple, there was a devotee by name reminds people of this legend. Though this Kanikkannan, who was very much attached temple does not enjoy an all-India to him. Kanikkannan was a great poet, and reputation as Tirupati or Srirangam does, an old lady who was a dancer at the court no pilgrim visiting Kanchi would consider during her youth was devoted to him. Kanik- his pilgrimage complete without visiting this kannan one day prayed to the Lord, pleasing temple, which stands on the road between him with beautiful songs, and beseeched the Railway station and the shrine of Sri him to endow her with youth again so as Varadaraja. to enable her to serve the Lord fittingly The same Sthala Purana about Brahma and and for long in the temple. The Lord, his Yaga is the background for yet another accordingly rejuvenated her, and this news temple in Kanchi - the Vilakkoli Temple. reached the King. The King requested Lord Vishnu removed all the obstacles that Kanikkannan to do the same for him, which Saraswati tried to create to stall the yaga. he refused. Infuriated, the King ordered Once, she made the place of the yaga him to leave Kanchi, When Kanikkannan left pitch-dark and the Lord then appeared as Kanchi, Thirumazhisai Alvar could not bear a lustrous beam of light illuminating the the absence of his devotee, and yet could place and also teaching Saraswati that not bring himself to follow him, leaving his there could be no darkness where the Lord in the shrine. So he prayed to the Omnipotent Light illumined the world. Thus Lord, asking him to go along with him to the Lord here came to be known as Deepa join Kanikkannan, and as the Lord followed, Prakasa Swami, and the temple as “Vilakkoli” the three of them left Kanchi. Devoid of Temple. the Lord’s illuminating presence, Kanchi became dark and gloomy, whereupon the Sri Satyavrateswara Temple King realised his folly and approached the divine party, resting on the outskirts of This temple is in Satyavrateswara village, the city, begged Kanikkannan to forgive four furlongs from Kanchi, now known as and return to Kanchi and bring back the Thirukkali Medu. One of the , called light that was the Lord. Thereupon, Saint Sivi, fed up with the heavenly pleasures, Thirumazhisai Alvar altered his earlier prayer wanted to attain Mukti by performing to the Lord, begging him to return to Kanchi, penance. On the advice of Brihaspathi, the which he did. Thus, as the Lord did all that Guru of the Devas, he came down to Kanchi his devotee bade him do, he came to be situated on earth and having gone to known as Yathokthakari Perumal or the God Satyavratam, had a bath in the holy tank that did His devotee’s bidding. In the month on a Wednesday, and performed penance, of Thai, in the birth constellation of concentrating on Lord Satyavrateswara Thirumazhisai Alvar, a festival is celebrated and attained liberation when the Lord taking the Lord to the spot where the holy appeared before him and blessed him. The party had rested on the outskirts, and the image of Lord Dakshinamurthi, also found image of the Lord in the temple, lying with in this temple, is a unique one. He is found

44 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA on a peetha with his right leg on Musalaka The Kailasanathar Temple ( demon) and his left leg crossed over the right leg, showing ’’ and ‘Sarpa’ in The Kailasanathar temple of his right hand and ‘Chuvadi’ and ‘’ in is believed to have been built in the first his left hand. Above the Lord is a Banyan half of the 8th century, during the reign of tree and below, at his feet, are seated a King Raja Simha of . This number of saints along with Nandi. temple is also, therefore, known by the name Raja Simheswara Griham, though it Sri Ashta Bhujam Temple is popularly known only as Kailasanathar temple. The temple is built entirely of sand- When Brahma was performing a Yajna, the stone, with smaller temples flanking the Asuras came and disturbed him, and on main temple. Near the entrance to the Brahma’s prayer Vishnu came and drove main temple is Mahendreswara Temple - them away. The Asuras begged Shiva for named in honour of King Mahendra Varma. his support, and he came in the form of a On crossing this, one faces the main Sarabha, an animal with eight feet. To temple, steps on south leading to the defeat Shiva in this form, Lord Vishnu came entrance. In the sanctum is a “Linga” down armed with eight hands, holding sculptured from 16 slabs. Around the temple chakra, sword, lotus and arrow on the right runs a compound wall, into which are and bow, conch, shield and “” on the carved 58 small shrines, containing images left. In the same temple also is found the of various deities, mainly of Lord Vishnu, image of Lord Vishnu in form, Brahma and Somaskanda. The basement unusual anywhere, with the face of a boar, of the “garbha-griha” in the Kailasanathar one foot touching the floor, and the other temple is of granite and the super-structure resting on the hoods of two serpents (male is of sand-stone. The garbha griha is and female) with Bhudevi seated on his surmounted by a pyramidal tower known lap, with his left hand around her waist as Vimana rising in tiers to a height of 50 and holding her feet with the other. This feet. There is a huge prismatic Linga in temple is situated just a few yards on the the sanctum installed by Mahendra Varma. south of Sri Yathokthakari temple. Sthala Purana Sri Chitra Gupta Temple There were three mighty Asuras, who were The temple is situated east of Rettai great devotees of Lord Shiva. These Asuras (Double) mantapam of Big Kanchi, and it is were causing endless trouble to the Devas, the only known South Indian temple who were unable to accomplish anything, dedicated to this Deity, who is believed to as the Asuras were devotees of Shiva and assist (the God of death) in hence were very powerful. So they prayed dispensing justice to the humans after their to Lord Vishnu. death, by recording their good and evil Vishnu, ‘aware of Shiva’s fondness for his deeds. devotees, evolved a plan to destroy the

45 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Asuras through Shiva himself. Thus, he This son, Parameswara Varma, when he created the Adi Buddha and through him grew up and succeeded to the throne had and , initiated a new school of the Perumal temple constructed thought attempting to expose the as Lord Vishnu’s abode on earth. It is drawbacks of Vedas and Vedic philosophy. remarkable that the two temples, This was taught to the Asuras, who, along Kailasanathar temple and Vaikuntha Perumal with some others turned Buddhists and temple are found side by side, thus making started preaching against Shiva. Shiva, the spot sacred for both Saivites and who was infuriated, destroyed them. Vaishnavites alike. At par with the Narada and Adi Buddha felt that they had Kailasanath temple in Mount Kailas this committed a sin by misleading the Asuras Kailasanathar temple in Kanchi is a spot of and so went on a pilgrimage visiting sacred great sanctity, and it is regarded as the places to ward off this sin. When they mundane counterpart of the Lord’s reached Kanchi, they felt that they were Heavenly abode. actually getting rid of the effects of their sin, and out of gratitude and joy, built a Sri Ulagalandar Temple temple for Lord Shiva and worshipped him, who blessed them with salvation. Ever Among the 18 Vishnu shrines in Greater since then, the temple came to be known Kanchipuram, five are located in the as Kailasanathar temple, and gained greatly important temple of Sri Ulagalandar. This in importance as a centre of worship temple is located west of Sri Vaikuntha equivalent to the original shrine of Perumal temple and east of Sri Kamakshi Kailasanatha of Mount Kailas. Maha Amman temple. The five Lords in these Sivaratri is celebrated here with great temples are, Sri Ulagalandar, Sri enthusiasm. Karakaththan, Oorakathan, Neerakaththan and Karvanaththan. Sri Vaikuntha Perumal Temple On the auspicious day of Vaikuntha Ekadasi, the Deities from the temples of Situated very near the railway station is Pandavaduthar, Pachai Vannar, Pavala this temple, noted for its architectural Vannar, Ulagalandar, Vaikuntha Perumal and grandeur, built by those royal lovers of ‘art, Deepa Prakasar are taken round in a the Pallavas. When the Pallava King procession through the main streets known worshipped Sri Kailasanathar by providing as Raja-Veedhi of Kanchi, and hundreds of the Deity with a ritual bath in sweet- devotees gather near the Gangai-Kondan- scented sandal-water, which streamed out Mantapam for divine darshan. of the temple as a brook on the sacred day of Maha Sivaratri, he was blessed with Sri Kamakshi Amman Temple a son devoted to Lord Vishnu. (The sacred books say that such worship on the day of The four holy shrines of Kanchi viz; Punya Maha Sivaratri, blesses one with the gift Kottam, Kottam, Kottam, and of a righteous son devoted to Lord Vishnu). Kumara Kottam are of great religious

46 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA importance to devotees all over, the called “Bilakasa” to save the Devas from presiding Deities in these shrines being Lord the Asuras. Varada Raja, Lord Ekambara Nathar, Sri Tradition says that there was a delightful Kamakshi Amman and Sri Subrahmania grove of champaka-trees around the Swami, respectively. Gayatri Mantapam. The Devas used to The Kanchi Kamakshi Peetham is one of gather on these trees having assumed the the 51 major Shakthi peethas of India. It form of parrots in order to worship the Devi. is also mentioned as one of the three most The Kama Koti Peetham is enshrined in the important Shakthi shrines - those of Kanchi Sri Chakra just in front of Sri Devi and all Kamakshi, Madurai Meenakshi and Kasi Pujas and prayers are offered to the Sri Visalakshi. Kamakshi Amman is also referred Chakra. It is said that Sri Devi after giving to as Para-Sakthi, having the three protection to the Devas enshrined herself goddesses Lakshmi, Saraswathi and in the Sri Chakra in Sookshma (subtle) form. Parvathi as her eyes and she bestows her The Peetha of Sri Chakra is worshipped by gracious looks on her devotees and blesses great sages. them with happiness and salvation. The Icon of Swarna Kamakshi was of pure It is stated in the sacred books that gold and it was removed to Tanjore for recitation of the Lalitha Sahasra Nama in safety in 1767 during the Muslim invasion. the precincts of the shrine confers on a This Icon was not returned afterwards; the woman-devotee the blessing of being a shrine of Swarna Kamakshi still exists in life-long “Sumangali”. It is also believed the temple, but without the Icon, and that, among those who undertake this devotees and people of the city greatly recitation, those whose past ‘karma’ is too regret its absence, even today. The present strong an obstacle have the experience of Sri Sankaracharya of Kama Koti Peetham being constantly interrupted by something has established a golden feet pedestal of or other and prevented from completing Swarna Kamakshi. the Sahasra-Nama. The “Pillar of Victory” in the temple premises This temple is at the heart of big is said to have been erected by the Devas, Kanchipuram, surrounded by the four Raja to show their gratitude to Sri Devi for the streets. The temple has four entrances, destruction of Bhandakasura, who was but the eastern entrance is treated as the buried in the ground, upon which the pillar main entrance. The sanctum sanctorum now stands. faces south-east in the middle of the Sri Adi Sankara, born in Kaladi, travelled all Gayatri Mantapam. The Deity is in the over India, reviving the Hindu dharma and Padmasana posture with four hands, and establishing Shakthi Peethams in Sringeri, is worshipped as Sri Raja Rajeswari Devi. Dwaraka, and Puri. At last, he She is also worshipped as Lalitha (the came to Kanchi, regained Kamakshi temple delicate one) and Kameswari (the destroyer from the Buddhists, and renovated the of all desires). temple, establishing the Kama Koti Peetham Sri Devi is said to have made her and the Sri Chakram. It is said that he appearence through the great concavity made Kama Koti the fifth Peetha; and took

47 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA his last journey to Kailasa through the blessed them to remove the pollution. A “Bilakasa” or the great concavity, and thus temple in three storeys with Vishnu in the came to be known as Sri Sankaracharya three postures is to be seen by the side of of Kamakoti Peetha. the tank. The two “ ” realising their There is a separate shrine for Sri fall, regretted their misdeeds, upon which Sankaracharya within the Prakaram and it is said Lord Shiva sent five torrents of the first homage is paid here before the Ganga from his head to wash off their beginning any festival. Sri Sankara Jayanti sins. This flow formed a tank, and came to is observed with great devotion during April, be known as Pancha Ganga. when verses are chanted from Soundarya The annual festival in the month of “Masi” Lahari in praise of Sri Devi. or Kumbham, the Panguni Uttiram Day in Just in front of Sri Sankara’s shrine is the the following month and the star “Pooram” shrine of Durvasa, the great saint who was in the month of Iyppasi (Oct-Nov.), which the first to have witnessed the appearance is the birth-star of Sri Devi, are the of the Devi through the Bilakasa. The great important festivals performed with great sage has composed the famous eclat. “Sowbhagya Chintarnani”, based on which the and other are carried Sri Kumara Kottam Temple on. The shrine of Sri Kasi Viswanatha, perhaps as a counterpart of the original Tradition says that once when Lord Brahma temple in Kasi, is found here within the himself was unable to explain the meaning third “prakara” of the temple. of the Pranava ‘AUM’ Lord Muruga relieved him of his duties and took on the The Pancha Ganga responsibility of creation. Thereupon, Lord Shiva deputed Nandi to go and beseach The sacred tank in the temple is known as Muruga to release Brahma, which however Pancha Ganga. When Bhandarakasura was he refused. He established a shrine for Shiva to be buried, a pit was dug, but another and performed penance here. The Kumara Asura took form and fell on the Devas, and Kottam temple, built on this spot, for Lord when the Devas tried to kill him, new Asuras Muruga is located in Big Kanchipuram,west were taking shape from every drop of blood of Kamakshi temple. There are also two that came from his wounds. To arrest this, more shrines here, one for Lord Vishnu and Lord Shiva sent two of his Pramatha-ganas another for Palani Andavar. to drink up the blood completely, after which no new Asuras could take form; and Sri Ekambaranathar Temple thus the Devas were saved. But the “ganas” lost their divine quality due to the drinking Of the five famous Lingas - Prithvi, Apah, of the Asura blood, and they became brutal Jyotir, and Akasa – Ekambaranathar and started harassing the Devas. Lord temple contains one, that is the Prithvi Vishnu took pity on them and laking the Linga. Some trace the origin of the name postures of standing, sitting and sleeping,

48 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA of Ekambaranathar to a single Mango tree veneration. It has four main branches, found in the temple premises. believed to represent the four Vedas. The This temple has five prakaras and a fruits on the four branches each have a thousand pillar Mantapam, of which only different taste and even the leaves are 616 are in evidence today, the rest having different. In the Prakara around the mango decayed. The compound wall, believed to tree there stands a Linga, which is be constructed by Krishna Devaraya in 1509 A.D., contains many Hindu, Buddhist and Jain idols. Sthala Purana: When Lord Shiva married Parvati on Mount Kailas in the Himalayas, all the Devas, Rishis and others gathered there to witness the great event. Owing to the weight of all those people the Universe began to tilt towards Kailasa and Lord Shiva asked the sage Agastya to go to Kanchi in the South and restore the balance. But Agastya was reluctant to go at the risk of missing the pleasure of witnessing the Divine couple’s wedding and so Shiva promised to re-enact the marriage for the delight of Agastya at Kanchi. The marriage declared on the Uthiram day of Panguni, is an important festival in the temple celebrated with great pomp and splendour and this place like Kailasa in the Himalayas, where the Divine composed of 108 small Lingas, and there marriage originally is said to have taken is also another composed of 10,008 smaller place (Shiva and Parvathi are called the Lingas. Adi Dampatis, the first couple) is considered There is a Vishnu temple in the premises to be of great sanctity and religious of this Shiva temple, the presiding Deity importance. being known as Neela Thingal There is a very old mango tree in the Thundaththan. Every year thousands of temple, worshipped by all with great

49 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA pilgrims gather here for the festivals and and they have absorbed into their worship the Lord and receive His blessings. tradition stories from Hindu mythologies and “Maha Sivarathri” and “Panguni Uttiram” adopted characters like Krishna and are the two most important festivals Balarama, Devaki and Rohini, representing celebrated in this temple. them as . Thus Jain temples are well patronised and they exist side by Thirupparuthikundram Temple side with the Hindu temples at Kanchi. The Jain temples at Thirupparuthikundram Thirupparuthikundram, in the suburbs of are among the oldest in the district. The Kanchi, lying on the southern bank of older of the two shrines is dedicated to Vegavathi, is known as Jina Kanchi or Jaina the eighth by name Kanchi. This place was a stronghold of the and the other built at a Jains of Digambara sect, whose later date to Vardhamana, popularly known descendants live there to this day. The as and locally called Trilokyanatha. Jains have made notable contributions to These temples are of great religious literature and philosophy. Mallisena Vamana importance and of historical interest Suri, who lived about the beginning of the because of the clear inscriptions on the 14th century, is greatly revered by the walls and paintings that give a vivid picture Jains of Thirupparuthi-kundram, and his of the times. disciple Pushpasena has contributed richly to contemporary . His The Chandraprabha Temple influence with Irugappa, the great minister of the Vijayanagaram Kings, has resulted This temple lies to the north of the larger in a few new structures added to the Jain main temple, and is situated in the corner temple in Kanchi. The Vijayanagar rulers of a garden. It is similar to Kailasanathar were noted for their patronage of other Temple, Vaikunthaperumal Temple, Sri religions, in addition to their great love for Muktheswar Temple and Mathangeswar Saivaite and Vaishnavaite temples. Right Temple, in architectural pattern, and it is from the time of Bukkaraya to Ramaraya, probable that it was built by the Pallavas, all the rulers patronised Jainism and made probably during the reign of Parameswara grants to Jains and their temples. Varma. Pallava inscriptions are found in the The followers of Jainism were men of temple premises. The main shrine is situated wisdom and made common cause with at a height of 12 ft. from the ground. The others in social, educational and ethical Jains of the locality call it Ervanasthalam aspects of life. Hence they were able not or Malaiyanar Koil. only to earn royal patronage but also to The sanctuary contains a big image of save their religion from probable extinction Chandraprabha, another of Kanthunatha as a result of assaults from other religious (17th Tirthankara) made of white marble . Also, Jain religious literature has and yet another of Vardhamana. The images references to many Hindu mythological are carved in the Paryanka posture. characters such as Rama, Krishna and

50 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Nothing is yet known of the shrine on the Sannadhis of these sages in Agirimedu, ground floor or why it remains closed. about 100 yards from the main temple.

The Vardhamana Temple Sri Kachchapeswarar Temple

Adjacent to the Chandraprabha Temple and This temple is situated between Sri a little to the south of it is the Vardhamana Vaikuntha Perumal Temple and Sri Temple, the bigger of the two. Several Kailasanathar Temple in Big Kancheepuram, Tirthankaras are enshrined and worshipped in the western part of the city. The main in this temple, the chief of them being entrance faces north but the sanctum Vardhamana (24th Tirthankara). The faces east. There is a sacred tank inside beautiful architecture of the temple, the temple. The temple construction shows particularly the sculptures in the cloistered a blend of the Vijayanagar and Chola styles court which surround it and the colouring of architecture. of the paintings which adorn the ceiling, The Sthala Puranam states that Vishnu took point out the fact that the temple was the form of a turtle to serve as base for built at the peak of the Chola Empire’s glory. Mount Mandara, with which the Devas and The shrine of Vardhamana is at the centre Asuras churned the sea for the divine and is held dear and sacred by the Jains. nectar. At the end of the event, however, There are also images of (9th Vishnu in the form of “Kachchapa” became Tirthankara) Dharmadevi, the Yakshi of proud and started disturbing the seas. The (22nd Tirthankara). To the left Devas prayed to Shiva who appeared here is a cluster of three shrines dedicated to as a Jyotir Linga and calmed Vishnu, who Padrna-prabhu, Vasupriya and Parswanatha thereafter worshipped him. A beautiful (6th, 12th and 23rd Tirthankaras carving is seen in the temple depicting Lord respectively). Vishnu worshipping the Jyotir Linga. Since The main shrine of Vardhamana appears to Shiva appeared here as Jyotir Linga, this be of recent origin. It is probable that the place is considered as sacred as Kasi ancient and original shrine, built of (Benares) and is revered as the abode of sandstone like the Kailasanathar Temple, Lord Shiva on earth. Kancheepuram is a became dilapidated and had been home of culture, art, learning, philosophy, reconstructed at a later date. The Jains music and religion. Rightly then was this believe that the Kamakshi Temple was “golden city” patronised and successively originally a dedicated to improved upon by the Kings of the Pallava, Dharmadevi. The earliest inscriptions in the Chola and Vijayanagar dynasties. temple point to the reign of Kulottunga Chola 1. Jaina Kanchi had also been a seat of some great sages like Akalanga, Chandra-kirti, Ananta Virya Vamana, Mallisena Vamana Suri and Pushpasena. There are “Bali Peethams” over the

51 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Adyar the Flaming Centre A. KANNAN

DYAR is the International Adyar Estate is one of the loveliest places headquarters of the Theosophical of the world. It commands the beauty of A Society and has been the focus of sea and river, island and sand-bar, the attention of many aspirants from all over loveliness of palm grove and pine wood. the world. Inspired by the motto, “There No one who, on the beach on an evening, is no Religion higher than Truth” Adyar has has watched the sun-set in flaming gold radiated Love and Brotherhood, which and rose behind the Casuarinas, will ever motivated many pioneering reform forget Adyar. Very many birds frequent the movements in India and abroad. Trans- woods at Adyar and a number of species Himalayan Rishis have blessed the of plants of particular interest to botanists Theosophical movement and the Adyar are found growing here. centre, and guided the activities of its founders, leaders and many other disciples. The Banyan Tree Adyar has been called a “Flaming Centre.” which name is particularly applied here to The Banyan tree, under whose wide- the Estate of about 250 acres of peaceful spreading leafy roof, 3,000 people have and hallowed land, situated between the often been comfortably seated at the Adyar River and the Coromandel Coast. The Annual Conferences, is a big attraction for following account is drawn from, many hundreds of tourists who daily visit the writers, who have given their testimony of Estate. The central trunk is in reality a love and veneration during the last 91 years vast collection of trunks, many of which since the establishment of this Estate. In have grown together so that it is impossible Adyar there is a source of spiritual power, to penetrate among them. In the case of which floods the world through every a tree so vast and so old as this (variously National Section and Branch of the estimated from 200 to 500 years), the Theosophical Society and its individual Divine Life manifesting through it acquires Members. Here the feet of the Rishis, the a distinct personality. spiritual founders of the Society, have actually trodden. These and other facts History of the Great Hall are recorded in the history of the Theosophical Society. Here is a great and Col. H. S. Olcott, a retired American Army powerful thought-form of Theosophical Officer renowned for his uprightness and inspiration and tradition, built and added honesty and Madame H.P. Blavatsky, a on by a succession of devoted members Russian woman of great occult powers and who have lived and worked here. deep understanding of the ancient wisdom,

52 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA came to India to establish the Theosophical Gods. On the south side, Mitra by the Society with its Headquarters at Adyar. On Seven Rayed Sun of Justice; Orpheus May 31, 1882, they inspected a property founder of the Greek Mysteries by Divine known as Huddleston’s Gardens situated Harmony; Osiris the Light of Lights and on the Adyar River. H. P. Blavatsky others including Free Masonry, Baha’ullah, remarked, “Master wants this purchased”. Judaism, Christianity, Jainism and Buddhism The central building is known as the also suitably represented. Theosophy or Headquarters building and its most striking Divine Wisdom with its motto, “There is no feature is the Great Hall which attracts Religion higher than Truth” also in Sanskrit the attention of innumerable visitors. It The Great Hall has a wonderful air of forms a veritable universal shrine, since its spaciousness and peace. walls are decorated with symbols representing eighteen different religions, Shrines of Different Faiths in addition to Free Masonry and of course, Theosophy. There are also two The Bharat Samaj Temple is located in the representations of the Goddess of Wisdom, Estate, and it is a place of worship based one a plaque of Minerva over the entrance on the essential rites and ceremonies of to the former Reading Room and the other the Hindu Faith. The deity is represented over the door to the former library, of by the sacred flame, and the worshippers Saraswathi, her Indian equivalent. At congregate their daily at 6 a.m. to pray Conventions and other important meetings according to a prescribed ritual comprising in the Hall the chanting of the “Prayers of of selected vedic hymns. No differences the Religions” begins the day. This was of caste, creed, colour, race or sex are originated in 1925 at the suggestion of observed. Close by are situated the Liberal J.Krishnamurthi. On the south side of the Catholic Church and the Zoroastrian Fire Hall we see the statues of the Founders Temple. In other parts of the Estate are by the Sculptor, Govinda Pillai. ‘also the Buddha Temple, and the The symbols in this Hall represent the living which was modelled after the Pearl Mosque religions on the north side, while those on at Delhi. This multi-faith atmosphere at the south, those that exist no longer. Here Adyar is unique, for it offers the opportunity we see four bas-reliefs representing best suited to each in his search for Truth Hinduism, Zorastrianism, Christianity and and Wisdom. The Ritual of the Mystic Star Buddhism and above a series of symbols is performed once a month in the Great enclosed in circles: Hinduism by Sri Krishna Hall. The service is dedicated to the Great with His flute and the Sacred Cow; Sikhism Teachers of World Religions, each striking by Hari the Indwelling Name; a specific keynote, all of them together by the First Great Zarathustra; Taoism by forming the syllables of a Sacred Word. Lao-Tsze; Confucianism by the character Both young and old participate in the Ritual “Tien” ... Heaven or Serene Righteousness; and dedicate their skills and knowledge in Islam with design and a verse from the the service of the Mystic Star. Koran and Shintoism by the Gate of the

53 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA The Adyar Library beautifully ornamented in red lacquer and gold with glossy black lettering containing The Adyar Library and Research Centre monastic rules and written in ancient was established by the President-Founder, Burmese ritualistic script, etc. are some of Col. H. S. Olcott in 1886. It is one of the the others worth mentioning. The collection pioneering institutions in Asia for the revival is unique in the sense that although there and preservation of oriental Literature and are several larger collections in other the promotion of the second object of The libraries, in and outside India, the speciality Theosophical Society, which is the study is in the variety of material in the religions, of comparative religion, philosophy, and philosophies, and culture of the world. science. From the very outset the Library Many important works have been published represented all the different religions, and in the Adyar Library Series, which has so its very first publications for which the far exceeded 100 volumes. Since 1937 the Colonel himself was responsible, were library is also publishing a research bulletin, catechisms on different religions and Brahma-vidya, a magazine held in high schools of thought. Through his enthusiasm esteem by indologists throughout the the library grew rapidly. Its collections now world. Drawn by its highly prized collections include a great number of books, Eastern of books and manuscripts, many research and Western, which are rare and out of fellows come to Adyar to utilize the library print, many being first editions and covering for their studies. The new building of the a variety of subjects. Every major language library is equipped with air-conditioned of the world is represented including rooms for storage of manuscripts and rare Sanskrit, Pali, , Tamil, and other Indian books, micro-filming facilities for languages; Chinese, Japanese, Tibetan, reproducing various rare books and other Greek, Latin, French, German, Italian, material, besides spacious reading rooms Spanish, Dutch, Russian, etc., besides and offices. Stack rooms can hold about a English. quarter million books and facilities are A complete set of xylographs on hand-made available for hand lamination of records to bark paper of the Tibetan Kanjur and preserve them for posterity. Tanjore adds to the great value of the library. Many of these are translations into Theosophy and the Theosophical Tibetan from the original Sanskrit and the Society library has re-translated into Sanskrit a few of these such as three works on the Visitors to the Adyar Estate are directed Mahayana or the Northern School of to the Information Officer who has Buddhism. The most beautiful of the introductory literature on Theosophy and Tripitakas or “The Three Baskets” is a set the Theosophical Society. In an adjoining of illuminated paper manuscripts in gold building is housed the Theosophical with delicate Chinese brush work. An Publishing House. It contains the ancient Islamic manuscript some 600 years publications of the world-wide organization, old, Buddhist manuscripts from Burma, whose members have deeply thought over

54 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA the truths of the Ancient Wisdom. Here is cup through which a blessing is being found the monumental work, The Secret poured upon the world, night and day”. Doctrine by H. P.Blavatsky in which she To live in Adyar is as good as to visit many has treated exhaustively the essential countries; our prejudices and conventions truths of all religions, sciences and are chipped away, and we learn to philosophies from time immemorial so as to recognise the One Life in some of its many present a synthesis for the modern world. forms. Religion is studied without dogma and Great movements have begun in Adyar, and superstition; science and philosophy have spread far and wide. To Adyar came without materialism. Each branch of human two great pioneers, H. P. Blavatsky and H. knowledge and experience is considered for S. Olcott, disciples of the great Indian its deeper significance to the spiritual good Rishis, Maurya and Kuthumi. Our grateful of mankind, so that man may learn to live thoughts turn lovingly to them as we carry in loving kindness to all beings, which is on their ever-widening work. Universal Brotherhood. Various subjects of The Star Movement had here its birth in an occult nature are found treated with Krishnaji’s First Initiation and early training. much insight and prudence. Here began the Home Rule Movement for The idealism, which Adyar bodies forth, is the freedom of India, prepared for by the represented by a group of the Theosophical Madras lectures of Dr. Annie Besant, “Wake workers from many lands, representing all up, India” inspired by the Rishi Agastya, the World Faiths, who toil to make of all who ceaselessly watched over His great the Nations and of the Religions one charge, India. Also the earlier movement indivisible whole. To build bridges between for the National Congress was begun by people and people by proclaiming the power delegates to the Theosophical Convention of the ideal of Brotherhood, to build bridges of 1884. between faith and faith, between science and religion, between work and art, by Kalakshetra Theosophical Schools stating to a modern world the old, old truths of the Divine wisdom; this is Adyar’s work The great inspiration that sustained the day by day. Through lectures, congresses, Theosophical movement at Adyar, also books, magazines, worship at many shrines gave rise to the renaissance movement in and temples, Adyar tries to live the gospel Art which is carried forward by Smt. of a Unity of the human spirit. A Devi, the Founder-Director of Kalakshetra. Theosophical leader has observed: Herein are preserved in their purity the “Ever since 1882, a great brooding Thought artistic traditions of India. Several artists of those Elder Brothers who are the true graduate from this world-famous Founders of the Society, those Great Ones institutions every year, and its headquarters who have come to the threshold of is situated 3 kilometers from Adyar at the Liberation, but renounced that splendour, sea-side Estate of Tiruvanmiyur. Col. Olcott in order that they may toil to bring our sad founded the Olcott Harijan Free Schools, earth a little nearer heaven. Adyar is their which afford the much-needed opportunity

55 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA of education for this under-privileged class The Six Abodes of people. The Besant Theosophical High School is run on Theosophical lines of of Muruga education for boys and girls, and there are no similar institutions elsewhere in India. ARTlKEYA or Muruga is the Great Leaders embodiment of strength. His very K birth was designed to defeat the Dr. Annie Besant stands out unique as a demoniacal powers rampant in a world torn leader with a great love for India, which by discord. He is the Commander- in-Chief made her work extraneously for her gaining of God’s forces formed to fight and vanquish political freedom, which she expected India evil. The epics and other sources depict will use for playing her role as a great him as a great integrator among the spiritual leader among Nations. Theosophy Divinities. He is the son of Siva and Sakti, is the spiritual heritage of mankind, and brother of Ganesa, nephew of Vishnu and the undying religion and , also son-in-law of Indra. He is hailed as Sanatana Dharma, is so eminently suited the God of valour, the wielder of the lance to carry the torch of spirituality to mankind (Vel), the champion of the lowly and the as a whole. In this great message delivered great lover of his devotees. In him flow to India and through India to the whole the two streams of grace and strength. world she was successively assisted by By invoking him one calls down the might J.Krishnamurthi, C.W.Leadbeater, of his father, Siva’s penance and the grace G.S.Arundale, C.Jinarajadasa and N.Sri Ram. of Sakti, his mother. And today, we are fortunate in having the The advent of Kumara has been celebrated same tradition of leaders in Geoffrey by the poet Kalidasa in his Kumara Hodson, James S. Perkins, S. Burnier, Sambhava and Panini’s . I.K.Taimni and G. S. Coats, the International Sri Nidhi speaks of his forms as President of the Society. So the flame of Gangeya, Guha, Shanmukha, Visakha and Adyar never dies so long as there is the Kartikeya. Kumara is a Rig Vedic divinity spiritual aspiration present in any human affirming the immensity and the variety of soul. And it is our sacred task to imbibe Reality. The Puranas give the biographical the spirit of Adyar in all its aspects, details, and Skanda is extolled as Deva physical, devotional, intellectual and Senapati. In , Skanda spiritual. is referred to as the Supreme Being. Sanat Kumara taught Sage Narada how to overcome ignorance and attain wisdom. “The way that leads to light or wisdom points to Skanda”. Sanat Kumara, the child eternal, who taught Brahmavidya is declared to be none else than Skanda by reputed Sanskrit scholars. The concept of 56 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Kumara-Muruga as revealed in the pilgrimage and worship him in literature and language of the is very (1)Tirupparakunram, (2) Tirucheeralavai clear in the works of Tolkappiam and Pari (), (3) Tiruvavinankudi, Padal. In the southern tradition of Hindus, (4)Tiruverakam, (5) Kunrutoradal and Muruga connotes ever-lasting youth, (6)Pazhamuthir Cholai. An attempt to divinity and beauty. In the collection of describe these centres has perforce to draw Ettutogai and Pathu Patu of the Tamil inspiration from Tamil literary sources. These Sangam Literature, there are many lyrics reveal indissoluble links between the devoted to Muruga. The poem of Saint religious thoughts, practices and Nakkirar, a renowned poet of the third monuments of the Tamils from remote times Sangam era, entitled Thiru Murugatrupadai as indicated in the many references from is a magnificent piece of work. the First to the Third Academy of Letters, In this idyll the author conveys in exquisitely and made them remember their Patron Deity rhythmic lines the fascinating abodes of Muruga, Velan and Arumuga in the ebb and Muruga with their natural setting and flow of their lives. They worshipped him in sublime craftsmanship. The central idea of the secret recesses of their hearts, in their this poem is the grand vision of Muruga to silent solitudes, individually. They his devotees who had sought him in the worshipped him in large congregations on sanctuaries of love, his six temples, as the special festival days and seasons. goal of their lives. These abodes are specially consecrated In these temples there is a subtle mingling to the worship of Muruga who chose these of the traditional Vedic form of worship with cities as his citadels. Tradition says that that of the indigenous spontaneous type, these were encampments during his war a fusion of the Celestial and Terrestrial against Asuric forces. The warrior-hero spheres, an affirmation of doctrinal and Muruga had six operational centres, where ritual approaches, as well as a rejection of he gathered his forces and launched his the power that wealth wields and the attack against the inimical hordes of the exclusion that cloistered authority Asuras and having conquered these mighty demands. It is from this that we understand forces he returned with his victorious hosts that Kartikeya is, indeed, the One in whose to celebrate in each of these abodes the presence “sceptre and crown must tumble sacrificial victory. down and in the dust be made equal.” He is an abiding example of Loka Samgraha, Tirupparankundram the sovereign way of universal love, love that embraces all living beings. Among such hilly abodes of Muruga, Lord Muruga has his abode in six sacrosanct Tirupparankunram stands out as a shrines, five of which have specific sanctuary of great beauty, some six miles locations, while Kunrutoradal has no to the south-west of Madurai, the once particular shrine. Symbolically his six faces famed capital of the Pandya Kings. It is find their resting place in each of the six 1,050 feet above sea-level. It is also called abodes. Devotees of Muruga undertake a Tiruparangiri, Kandarnatanam, Kanda Malai,

57 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Salya Giri, Paran Kunram. The Muslims call Tolkappiar this mount as Sikkanthar, and have erected makes a mosque on top of the hill. The traditional reference to belief is that Muruga was married to Indra’s this coastal daughter Devayani here after his victory shrine swept over Sura Padman. Here too, he is said to by the have saved Nakkirar and his 999 billows as companions, from captivity and death. “Murugan Muruga is honoured here by the special Thimpuna name of Kandaswamy and Shanmuga- Alaivay”. On nathan. The temple is on the northern side the eastern of the hill and is of great architectural part of the beauty. There is a Peacock Hall here leading temple he is to the Asthana Mantapam. This is supported mounted on by two rows of pillars, sixteen pillars an elephant surrounded by fifty pillars skilfully with Shan- delineating the legendary glory of Muruga. mukha and The gopuram is 150 feet high and inside twelve out- the temple is the Kalyana Mantapam skirted stretched by the sacred pool and temple gardens. arms, that The sanctum sanctorum is carved out of a declare his rock and besides Muruga’s well-chiselled are the form there can be seen the images of mighty Karpaga Vinayaka, Satya Giri Natha, Durga Lance (Vel) that pierces the gloom of Devi and Vishnu. No immersion ceremony ignorance depicted as Asuric forces and is conducted in this sanctum except to such other deadly tools. His five faces the Lance (Vel). The shrine is dedicated betoken the acts of Creation, Protection, to the element Earth Dissolution, Involution and Bestowal of (Prithvi). Grace. His sixth aspect is the communion in Tirucheeralavai silence. Tiruchendur enjoys immense popularity among all classes of worshippers Tirucheeralavai or Tiruchendur is in the of Muruga as a shrine dedicated to the Tirunelveli district, 35 miles from the town. element Water. After his crushing victory It is said that it is from here that he over Sura Padman, the Asura, Muruga launched his onslaught in the last phase returned to this place in the form of a of his war against the Asura called Sura young child and performed a Swapuja. He Padman, who had assumed the form of an is said to have cleaned his Vel in the Skanda upturned mango tree in mid-ocean. Here Pushkarini - (a well of fresh water, close the sanctum faces the sea and the roaring to the sea and very near the shrine). To waves beat against it ceaselessly. this day, it is considered to be a spring

58 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA having the potency of healing several he found that Lord Subrahmanya was ailments. It is now called “Nalikinaru”, and seated on Siva Girl. He came to this hill never dries up even in times of dreadful under a peculiar circumstance. Siva had drought. The sanctum has the image of two sons, Subrahmanya and Ganesa. One Bala Subrahmanya with four hands and one day Lord Siva and Mother Parvathi called face. The two lower hands are raised in them and said that one who could blessing; the upper ones hold the rosary circumambulate the universe would be and flowers. Adi Sankara has sung the glory suitably rewarded with a celestial fruit. of this abode in his famous work called Muruga set out on his peacock to go round Subrahmanya Bhujanga . the universe, whereas Ganesa had only a little rat for a mount. The latter paused Tiruvavinankudi for a while and made a complete “pradakshina” or circumambulation of His Tiruvavinankudi or Palani is a town in parents and claimed the fruit. When asked Madurai district. It is well known as one of for an explanation the divine son retorted the six temples of Muruga. It is about 1,068 by saying that His entire universe was feet above sea-level. Avinan Kudi was the centered in His own parents. Lord capital of the historic chieftains, who Subrahmanya after his triumphant total trip belonged to the Avinar clan. They were round the Universe found his brother devotees of Muruga. A poet called Aviyar already in possession of the prize and he perhaps belonged to Avinankudi or Aviyar then came away in anger and established clan, This proves that Avinankudi was a himself, as Dandayudhapani, as a perfect centre of learning and also had a temple ascetic, on Siva Giri. When Edumban dedicated to Lord Muruga. Here he is enquired into the cause for his being on known as Dandayudha or the deity top of the hill, the Lord slew him, but on that holds the Danda weapon in his hand. the request of the Sage brought him back The temple is on top of a hill and the road to life. Since Edumban was carrying the around has several mantapams containing Kavadi at that time this practice still peacocks (the mount of Lord prevails. Usually, milk is carried on the Subrahmanya). An interesting episode is kavadi and offered in ablution over the deity associated with this temple. It is said that in fulfilment of vows. The older temple Sage Agasthya created two hills called Siva whose praises have been sung by the great Giri and Edumban Malai. After performing Tamil poets is at Tiruvavinangudi, and the penance here Agasthya went to Kailas, On other is at Siva Giri. People have immense his return he asked one of his attendants faith in the power of this deity. As in to carry these two hills on either side of a Tirupati, rigorous vows are undertaken, and pole (to form a kavadi) and carry it on his pilgrims visit this temple in large numbers shoulder. This attendant found that Siva at all times of the year. Marriages, Giri outweighed Edumban Malai, So to initiations, upanayanam, naming ceremony equalise it he tied two heavy stones; still, are all conducted here in hundreds, day they could not be balanced. On scrutiny after day.

59 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Thiruverakam or Swami Malai has been seen with Devayani alone. Here the pilgrim sees the white elephant The deity here is exclusively worshipped Airavata, instead of his usual peacock. The by the Brahmacharis called “antanars” who temple is an ancient one and it is said to have gone through strict discipline of a have been here as early as the second course of study Vedas. They were found century B.C. to be extremely pious, always chanting the The day of Krittika is very important, and six sacred letters in a gentle voice. Muruga thousands of people worship the Lord on abides here as Kumara Guru, the Preceptor this day every month. The main festivals of the twice-born antanars, who worship are Brahmotsavam and Skanda Shashti. Him with the incantation of the six letters: Here also the pilgrims carry Kavadi and go “Saravana Bhava”. in large groups. Swami Malai is near Kumbakonam. There is a railway station on the main line from Kunrutoradal Madras to . Here Lord Subrahmanya is known as Swaminatha. It There was no special temple. The place of is said that Subrahmanya whispered the worship was called Virikkalam. It may have Pranava into Lord Siva’s ears. As been the house of some devotee and the this incident took place in this sacred place, worship was intended for the welfare of it came to be known as Swami Malai and the family. The shrine might have been the deity is called Swaminatha. It is in situated in the meeting place of villages. keeping with the legend that the shrine of This worship is performed by the hill tribes Subrahmanya is built on the hill and Siva called Kuravas and takes the form of a stands below at the foot of the hill. There dance called Veriyadal. These tribes are three beautiful gopurams on the temple. consider Lord Muruga as their guardian The gopuram on the southern side is the deity, who is directly concerned with the biggest of all. There are three vestibules welfare of the tribe. This dance of rapture, surrounding the sanctum. To reach the they say, is occasioned by a trance into shrine one has to ascend 60 steps. The which the devotees of Muruga are thrown. pilgrims offer in worship , flowers, The main devotee is armed with a spear fruits, etc. at the first step and then go and dressed in red garments and smeared up and worship at the top. At the summit, all over with red sandal-paste. The tribal there is a shrine dedicated to Vinayaka. dance performed to the beat of deer skin Tradition says that once a blind man came drum, the sound of which echoes through here to pray to Lord Muruga and got back the hills. his sight when he Worshipped Vinayaka, These dances are performed in praise of first. He has since then been known as God Muruga by these simple folk to ward “Netra Vinayaka”. There are many smaller off calamities anticipated through ill omens. shrines here dedicated to Agastya, Lakshmi, Then it is called Veriyadal. When it is Saraswathi, Visalakshi and other deities. intended for prosperity and preservation In one corner a shrine of Lord Subrahmanya of peace it is called Kuruvai Koothu. There

60 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA is exuberance of vigour and intense devotion in this form of worship by the un- sophisticated people of the village parts. By their fervent piety untutored in Vedic forms of worship they call down the grace of Muruga, their Lord and Patron. growth of vegetation and breathing the Situated at a height of about 500 feet in a refreshing cool breeze wafted over the plateau on the Western , seven miles herbs on the hills. A recently laid, good north west of amidst lush motorable road up to the hill-top serves vegetation and salubrious climate, as a boon to physically-weak devotees who Maruthamalai Hills dedicated to Lord Muruga ‘are eager to visit the temple. The shrine (Dandayudhapani) may be aptly called the- of Edumban is located almost in the middle Second Palani. of the steps. The image of the deity is The Maruthamalai Hill shrine of Muruga is carved on a huge round rock in the posture classified under Kunrathoradal, one of the of carrying a Kavadi. On the top of the six main abodes of the God. The word hills, Lord Muruga reigns supreme with all Maruthachalapathy or Maruthamalai His splendour! The shrine is not a big one. Andavan means Master of the hills, that The sanctum sanctorum and the Ardha- abound in Marutha trees. The Lord has mantapam are comparatively small. The idol assumed the appellation, Maruthachala- made of granite is about four feet in height, pathy after the association of the words, facing the east with the right hand holding Marutham, Achalam and Pathy, signifying Dhandayudham (rod), the left hand placed the Marutha tree, the hills and the Master, on the hip and a spear (Vel) placed across. respectively. The image bears a close resemblance to As we approach the foothills, at a little the deity at Palani, and one feels as though distance from it, we are greeted by the he is worshipping the Lord over there! deity Ganesa. It is significant to note that The front mantapam is wide enough to the deity is not a chiselled one but a self- accommodate a fairly large number of created or self-manifest one (Swayambhu). devotees. The presiding deity is flanked The flight of steps causes hardly any by Sivalingam and to the left and strain; rather the climb is light and to the right respectively in the outer exhilarating as one goes up the neatly prakara, The Marudha Thirtham and the carved steps, gazing round the luxuriant Pambatti Suna are holy springs on the hills,

61 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA and a dip in them is said to a cure for a shrine surrounded by shrubs and trees. It number of diseases, as they contain is situated up the hill at a short distance. medicinal properties. One can also come It is a small shrine accessible after going across the ancient hill tribes of this region, through almost unfrequented paths. This who have their strange, small but sturdy hill has many holy Tirthas held in great dwellings improvised out of sticks, roots veneration by pilgrims-the Noopura Ganga, and barks. With their curious customs and Hanumar and Garuda Theertham manners, they attract the attention of are also found here. Set in almost an sociologists and anthropologists. unnoticeable place, this shrine is not visited The most important festival associated with by as many pilgrims as the other large Alagar the presiding deity is Krittigai, celebrated Koil dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The sanctum every month. Thousands of devotees has for its image the sacred lance of Lord throng the temple on this occasion. Thanks Muruga. The very fact that Vaishnavites to the pious efforts of a film producer, the and Saivites gather at the same place and whole path from foot hills to the top is well are even at times surrounded by the same electrified. walls would show the essential unity of all The annual festival of Padi Viza also Hindu sects, each being a path distinct attracts a large number of devotees. The from the others, but all leading to the same hoary past of the temple is traced in goal. ancient works. Skanda is connected with the Krittikas, who Peria Puranam lists the three neighbouring brought him up. Skanda has, therefore, hills of Vellingiri, Nili and Maruthamalai as connection with the constellation Krittika. the very manifestations of Lord Siva, In South India the worship of Subrahmanya Parvathi and Muruga respectively and the is particularly held auspicious in the month three hills together as the very symbol of of Kartikai (Nov.-Dec.), and specially when Somaskanda, A pilgrimage to the holy hills the moon is located in the Krittika of Maruthamalai is an uplifting experience. constellation. People all over the country collect in great numbers in the Pazhamuthir Cholai Subrahmanya temples of South India and offer their prayers or take fresh vows. Pazhamuthir Cholai is a tiny shrine about twenty three kilometers north-east of the Adapted and reproduced by courtesy of city of Madurai. The Skanda Puranam refers the Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan, Bombay to this place as being sacred to both Vishnu -from Kartikeya by Ratna Navaratnam. and Skanda. Saints Nakkirar and Arunagirinathar have composed songs about this hill as sacred to Muruga, in their immortal works Tirumurugatru Padai and Tiruppugazh; Nakkirar refers to Pazharnuthir Cholai as one of the Favourite resorts of Lord Muruga. A -road leads to this

62 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Vadalur as a Place of Pilgrimage OORAN ADIGAL

The Peripheries of the century spent the last few years of his life Town’s Importance in this place. In his 35th year he migrated to Vadalur and lived for the next sixteen ADALUR is a town in Tamilnadu in years of his life in Vadalur and its vicinity. the Taluk of the South He was born at Maruthur, a village about VArcot District. It has a population 11 kilometres to the south-east of Vadalur. well over 5,000 and is a Town Panchayat He attained siddhi on the 30th of January going under the name of Parvathipuram 1874 at the village of Mettukkuppam, which Panchayat. It lies 8 kilometres to the east lies 4 kilometres to the south-west of of (of lignite mines fame) on the Vadalur. The Centenary of his siddhi falls Vruddhachalam-Cuddalore road. It is a on the 30th of January 1974. The date of railway station on the Vruddhachalam- his attaining siddhi falls in the ten-day Cuddalore Branch line of the Southern period of the celebrations, on the 6th Railway. It is 30 kilometres to the north- February 1974 in the asterism of Paush west of the celebrated pilgrimage centre, falling on the full-moon day in the month Chidambaram of Nataraja fame. It is served of Paush. by frequent buses from Vruddhachalam, Cuddalore, Chidambaram and Neyveli. Ramalinga Swami’s Songs of Grace Vadalur is essentially an agricultural town, but it is getting rapidly industrialised. There is the author of a are at present two important industrial units magnum opus, a work spreading over 43 - The Seshasayee Insulators Ltd., and years of his fifty-one years of life, a poetic Neyveli Ceramics and Refractories Ltd. The work of great mystic significance, a faithful availability of the special kind of clay record of his spiritual experience from year needed for the manufacture of ceramic to year, from stage to stage of his spiritual articles makes this place a very desirable life, a work of 5,818 stanzas. Besides this one for the establishment of industries he has written many prose works of great connected with that raw material. significance. His great work is called The Thiruaruipaa-s-Poems of the holy grace of The Centre of Its Significance the Lord. From this work it is possible to cull his creed which may be formulated as But Vadalur does not gain its importance follows : There is but one God. from these factors. It gains its importance He should be worshipped in the form of from the fact that Ramalinga Swamigal, the Light. Petty deities are not to be great mystic, poet, philosopher, scholar, worshipped. Sacrifices of living creatures saint and revolutionary reformer of the 19th

63 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA in the hundred and more years. The poor are fed three times a day. It is remarkable that this institution has no endowment of money or lands; yet its granary has been filled, day in and day out, for over a century by the people themselves, many of them being mere tenants of landlords. should not be made in their names. The Light in the Sanctum of the Shrine Discrimination between man and man should not be made on grounds of caste and creed. While the above arrangement was made Killing of creatures and eating of flesh should to assuage the physical hunger of the be echewed. The life of every creature people, Ramalinga Swamigal established the should be held as dear as one’s own. “Satyagnana Sabha” to assuage the Everything should be considered with an spiritual hunger of the people. This Sabha universal outlook. Assuaging the hunger of - an imposing octagonal, copper roofed the poor is, indeed, the key to heaven. structure of architectural grandeur was founded on 25th January 1872. It has also Creed of seen its Century. The Godhead is worshipped here in the form of a flame of These are the keystones of his life and light. Again, this light lit by the Swamigal teachings. He called this creed, “the on the inauguration day a century ago has Universal Pure and Righteous Path (to been burning unintermittently since that God)”. He established in 1865 an day in the last century. The light is in the association called, “Samarasa Suddha sanctum-sanctorum behind a sheet of Sanmaarga Sangam” for the propagation glass. The light and the sheet of glass are of this creed. His main principle in life was hidden behind seven screens of velvet cloth compassion towards all living creatures. He in the following colours beginning with the was the embodiment of compassion to all curtain of the farthest sheet of glass: creatures. The “Samarasa Suddha (1)Black, (2) Blue, (3) Green, (4) Red, Sanmaarga Satya Dharma Saalai” was the (5)Golden Yellow, (6) White, (7) A blend institution which he established in 1867 of all colours. The darsan of the Jyothi - for assuaging the hunger of the poor. The the light - is given to the devotees on the fire he lit up on that day has never gone day of the asterism of Paush each month. out through all these years. It has cooked In months other than the month of Paush food for millions of people and served them (January-February) only six curtains are

64 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA withdrawn, the curtain which is a blend of himself in forever. He did not come out of all colours and half in size not being that room again. The room was opened by withdrawn. In Paush, however, all the the Police and the Collector of the District curtains are withdrawn and the Jyothi within a few days of his entering the room behind the sheet of glass may be seen in and no trace of him could be found. He all its original splendour. has disappeared from the physical vision of man. The Veiled Light Within The Sanmarga Sangam, the Satya Dharmasalai, the Satya Gnana Sabha - all The philosophy behind the curtains and the three are situated in their own grounds of light is that man should see the light within 80 acres. These institutions and the himself and be redeemed. The seven Siddhivalaakam at Mettukuppam are under screens are curtains of maya, which hide the management of a Board of Trustees the light that is God in the heart of man appointed by the Hindu Religious and from his own vision. The significance of Charitable Endowments (Administration) the external light and the curtains is that Department of the Government of man should remove the veiling curtains of Tamilnadu. maya in his soul and should see the light that shines as God within him. Our Swamigal had this vision of God within himself. He Annual Festivals established the Gnana Sabha, so that all mankind may see God within itself just as Thai-poosam on the full-moon day of the he himself did. month of Thai (January-February) when the asterism of Paush is in the ascendency. The “Siddhi-Valaakam” This is the largest festival of the year when more than two lakhs of devotees gather. The place where the Swamigal attained The Anniversary of the Inauguration of the his Siddhi is called “ Siddhivalaakam”. This Satya Dharmasalai on the 11 th of the building is situated in the village of month of Vaikasi (first week of May). Mettukkuppam which lies 4 kilometres to Birthday of Ramalinga Swamigal in the the south- west of Vadalur. The light which month of Purattasi (September-October) the Swamigal had worshipped in his days in the asterism of Chitrai. Flag Day - 7th has never gone out and can still be seen of Aippasi (October- November) at burning brightly day and night. The Siddhivalaakam. Besides these, monthly devotees have taken care to see that it festivals are celebrated on the asterism of does not go out. To think that this has Paush when about five thousand people gone on for over a century fills us with congregate to have darshan of the Jyothi. amazement and pride. It is in this structure that the Swamigal entered a room on the night of the 30th January 1874 and locked

65 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Kumbakonam chariots, which passed on to the City of Hoary Shrines descendents. In this way the chariot of came in possession of Rama, a B. RADHAKRISHNA RAO descendent of Surya Vamsha (). TUDDED with innumerable lofty Rama handed over this chariot to shrines dedicated to the various Vibhishana while returning to Lanka. On the Sdeities of Hindu pantheon, way Vibhishana left the chariot on the Kumbakonam is one of the most ancient Kaveri bank to attend to his rituals. When sacred cities of South India. Situated at a he came back, he found to his wonder that distance of 194 miles from Madras, it is the chariot had got firmly stuck to the the head- quarters of the Kumbakonam place. Vibhishana prayed to the Lord, but Taluk in Tanjore District. Kaveri river, which was told that the chariot would stay there is the very life of Kumbakonam, flows past as Sage had asked this boon of the down the town. Set amidst the ravishing Lord. Further, Bhrigu, who had earlier beauty of smiling paddy fields, lush-green offended the Lord but later performed plantain groves and extensive betel vines, severe penance, as an atonement offered Kumbakonam has managed to preserve a the hand of his daughter in marriage to great deal of its old world charm. Vishnu. Vishnu readily consented to the offer and settled down at Kumbakonam. Legends in Plenty Temple of Sarangapani In Skanda Purana, Kumbakonam has been compared with other 38 celebrated holy The 147 ft. high gopuram consisting of 12 spots like Rameswaram, Tirupathi, Kasi etc. storeys of Sarangapani Temple is the tallest During the 7th century the Cholas exercised in Kumbakonam and was renovated some their sway over Kumbakonam. Among the three years back. Figures representing array of shrines found at Kumbakonam, the episodes from the Puranas adorn this one dedicated to Brahma is the most majestic gopuram. The ceiling of the temple outstanding one, for in the whole of India is well painted. the temples dedicated to Brahma are very This temple is unique in that it has two few and rare. Of the score of temples entrances; one on the southern side and dedicated to Vishnu, Sarangapani shrine is the other on the northern side. During important both from the point of sculptural “” devotees are required to exuberance and legendary importance. This enter the shrine through the southern gate temple has been accorded the third place and hence it is also known as “Entrance of of importance among the Vishnu temples. “Dakshinayana”. During “” There is an interesting legend attached to devotees have to enter the shrine through Sri Sarangapani Temple, otherwise called the northern entrance, and for that reason Aravamudhan Koil. Brahma and Surya once it is called “Entrance of Uttarayana”. The received from Vishnu as gift two fine legend connected with the two entrances 66 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA provided to the temple says that once two the pot with thread, coconut, mango divine beings did rigorous penance to attain leaves and Kusha grass. The pot was placed eternal bliss. Having been pleased with their on Mount Meru, so that it may not be devotion, Lord Vishnu manifested before carried away by the powerful currents of them and directed them to go to water at the time of the deluge. But when Kumbakonam and stand at the two the deluge ravaged the earth, the pot was entrances of his shrine. They did as carried by the swift currents of the water. instructed by the Lord and had their desires When the tides subsided, the Kumbha (pot) fulfilled. reached Kumbakonam in the south. Shiva The floating festival of this temple is taking the form of a hunter shot an arrow celebrated on a grand scale in the month at the Kumbha (pot), as a result of which of Masi. The Pontamaraikulam - the golden the Kumbha broke into pieces. Out of the lotus tank is just outside the temple. This broken Kumbha emerged , which picturesque tank sprawling over an area got spilled over an area of ten miles. This of 360 ft. by 285 ft. contains a beautiful stagnated at two places, one of 16 pillared mantapam. There are two big which became the Mahamagam Tirtha and cars in the temple, of which one is the the other became the Pontamaraikulam. third largest in the district. There is also a Lord Shiva made a Linga out of the broken silver car in which Lord Sarangapani is taken pieces of the Kumbha and installed it at out in procession on occasions like Kumbakonam. The temple of Adi Vaikuntha Ekadasi. Kumbheshwara is situated in the heart of the city. It occupies an area of 18,900 sq. Temple of Kumbheswara ft. Its magnificent 128 ft. tall gopuram can be viewed from a very long distance. The temple of Adi Kumbheswara after There are four prakarams to the temple, which the town is named is one of the in which rows of shops, houses, shrines most sacred “Saivite” shrines in the dedicated to various deities are found. On country. Here Shiva Linga is in the shape the banks of the temple is a shrine of of a Kumbha (pot), beneath which stand Vinayaka, the presiding deity of which is an idol of Nataraja. probably called “Ayira Karumbu Vinayaka “ The legend about the origin of this temple (“Ayiram” means thousand and “Karumbu” which Sekkizhar has narrated in his means sugarcane). Periyapuranam runs thus: Lord Brahma who got upset at the time of the deluge over Nageshwara Shrine the completion of the work of creation approached Shiva and sought his guidance The famous Nageshwara Temple here is in this regard. There upon, Shiva handed constructed in such a way that the rays over to Brahma, the Sristhi-Bija, the seed of the sun enter into the sanctum through of creation with the advice that it should the openings of the gopuram three times a be kept in a pot made of ambrosia and year. The rays of the sun fall directly on mud. Brahma did as advised and decorated the image of Nageshwaraswami, which is

67 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA considered as the worship of the deity by Mahamagam Tank sun. The temple also contains a separate shrine for sun. A beautiful image of Nataraja The Mahamagam Tank, which is famous for is the cynosure of all eyes at this temple. the Mahamagam festival celebrated once It is said that the Lord danced in joy when in 12 years is a fine reservoir of water Venugopala (Krishna) played on the flute. surrounded by beautiful mantapams. The This temple was built by Pallavas. Mahamagam festival is analogous to the Kumbhamela of Prayag. Architectural Beauty of There is a belief that Mahamagam Tank Rameswara Temple contains a number of other Tirthas in the form of wells. Sri Appar in his prayer has However, the brightest gem of architectural referred to the presence of Godavari in the marvel at Kumbakonam is Rameswaraswami tank. In the month of a colourful Temple built by Nayak rulers. The temple festival is held here during which the image boasts of many splendid figures of great of Lord Kumbeshwara is taken to the tank workmanship. In the sanctum, the idols of for Avabrithasnana (holy dip). The Rama, Lakshmana and Sita along with Mahamagam festival celebrated once in 12 Bharata and Satrughna doing Chamaraseva years attracts lakhs of devotees from all captivates the devotees. Hanuman is over the country. The exact time when depicted as playing on the Veena. The walls this festival takes place is the conjunction of the temple are replete with rows and of the moon with Makha Nakshatra and rows of resplendent figures telling the story Jupiter, on the full-moon day of Magha. of Ramayana. The Mahalinga Temple The legendary belief is that on this dedicated to Lord Shiva lies 6 miles to the occasion all the important Tirthas of India north of Kumbakonam. A huge and enter this tank. By taking bath in this tank attractive Nandi measuring 17 ft. long and on that day one acquires the merit of 11 ft. high stands in front of the Linga. having bathed in all the sacred rivers: The sight of the Nandi is sure to endure Ganga, Yamuna, Saraswathi, Godavari, forever in the minds of the visitors. Narmada, Sindhu, Kaveri and Krishna. On the northern bank of this tank is the shrine Temple of Chakrapani of Kasi Viswanatha, where the nine Kannikas and seven Holy Rivers are said to In the Chakrapani temple, Vishnu, who have offered worship. Kumbakonam is also appeared in the form of Chakra (discus) to the seat of Kanchi Kamakoti Peetham, subdue the arrogance of Surya is enshrined. presided over by His Holiness The temple is situated near a Sankaracharya of Kamakoti. ground. The burning ghat is called Chakrapani Turai.

68 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA

SRI RAMANASRAMAM

Abode of the Maharshi and thereby to give them serenity even in misfortune. SRI RAMANASRAMAM, the abode of All this implies that Ramanasramam is not Bhagavan Sri , is a well- a place visited by large crowds in search known spiritual centre of India attracting of transient gains. Rather, it is for the seekers from all parts of the world. Now, serious aspirant, who has understood that there are so many spiritual centres in India Liberation is the supreme goal and who that not only the foreign tourist but even seeks the grace and support of the Master the Indian devotee may well be excused to guide him on his way. The Beacon of for wondering which one to visit. However, Tiruvannamalai, Arunachala or Tiruvanna- it is not simply a question of duplication; malai, where Ramanasramam is situated, each one has its own specific character, is a medium-sized South Indian town, 120 so that while one meets the need of one miles south- west of Madras. There is no person, another provides a haven to very convenient railway connection but someone else. there are good roads, and the journey by bus takes less than five hours. The prefix Not for Transient Benefits ‘Tiru’ means ‘blessed’ or ‘auspicious’, “Malai“ means ‘mountain’ and ‘Anna’ implies There are places where people go to pray ‘supreme’, so that the name signifies ‘The for a son or a job, to win a lawsuit or get auspicious, supreme mountain’. It is an through an examination or obtain release ancient town with a large and splendid from sickness or misfortune. There are also temple. There are certain yearly festivals, places where people go in the hope of when it is crowded with pilgrims from all developing supernatural powers, obtaining over South India. Especially is this so at visions of the deity, reading men’s thoughts, Karthigai Deepam, falling usually in curing sickness and for forth. Sri Ramana November. On this occasion a beacon of Maharshi did not encourage such clarified butter contributed by devotees aspirations. It is not to say that no such and pilgrims is lit at sunset on the summit prayers are ever answered at Srii of the mountain and burns the whole night, Ramanasramam. It should, however, be often indeed for one or two following days, emphasised that the Maharshi did not too. approve of such motives in those who came to him. Rather be tried to awaken in them Revival of a Forgotten Path the realisation that they were not the suffering body but the eternally blissful Self Although associated with the most direct and central spiritual path, Tiruvannamalai 69 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA making it no longer a path for the silent recluse but one to be followed by householders and business or professional men living an outwardly earthly, modern life. By restoring the direct path he restored Tiruvannamalai also to its ancient eminence. It is a place now where those who seek will find. The Maharshi attained Self Realisation through a spontaneous act of Self Enquiry, while still a lad of seventeen. He left home and set out as a Sadhu for Tiruvannamalai and he spent the rest ·of his life there. He later wrote hymns speaking of the mountain itself as a divine manifestation. At the time of his Maha , a bright star was actually seen travelling slowly across the sky and sinking into the peak of the holy mountain. Since then, Visitors here have felt even more than before the is far from being the most famous of India’s mystery and spiritual power of Arunachala- holy places, perhaps because of the very Ramana. fact that it is associated with this path. The Story of the Maharshi’s Advent For the most direct path can never be the most popular. It is more austere than some In Tiruvannamalai the Maharshi lived in other paths and accessible rather for the many places on the Hill. When he and his intrepid few than for the many. Indeed, followers were at Skandasramam his mother the method of Self Enquiry, which Bhagavan renounced the world and joined them. Sri Ramana Maharshi exemplified and There she began to cook for the little advocated, had almost gone out of use in group, whereas previously they had taken recent centuries. More emotional methods only what was given in charity by the suited the times better. It was the Maharshi pious, some of them daily going into town who brought it back into use and made it to beg. accessible to modern men through his grace The Mother died in 1922, attaining and guidance. He changed it in doing so, Liberation at the moment of death, through

70 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA persistent effort, fortified by concentrated After the Maha Nirvana grace of the Maharshi. As tradition demands in the case of a Liberated Being, All this suddenly changed in 1950, when the body was not cremated, but buried. the Maharshi attained Maha Nirvana. It No burial is allowed on the sacred mountain, seemed for a while that the Asramam might so she was buried at its foot, at the come to an end or survive only as a relic. southernmost point, where a cemetery Indeed, never had the atmosphere been already existed. It was less than half an more vibrant with the Maharshi’s presence. hour’s walk from Skandasramam and the Such Grace was there that those who Maharshi used to come there daily. Then stayed could not even feel sad. There was one day he stayed on. It was here that nothing to grieve about, no loss, no SRI RAMANASRAMAM arose. privation. More and more people felt this. Devotees who had left came back. The The Meditation Hall with Ramana’s flow of visitors started again. It was recalled Presence that the Maharshi had given many indications of his continued presence. In The hub of the Asramam is of course the approving a Will that was drawn up he old meditation hall where devotees sat with stated that this Asramam was to remain a the Maharshi. There was a couch there Spiritual Centre. where he sat in the day time and slept at night. He never left the Asramam except The Path and the Guru for his daily walk on the mountain, morning and evening. Devotees used to sit before The Maharshi taught the path of Self him on the floor, men at one side of the Enquiry - ‘Who am I?’ This is not hall, women at the other. People sat in investigating the mind, conscious or sub- meditation there while the Maharshi conscious, but seeking the Self underlying watched over them, guiding them in silence the mind. Therefore he said: “There can far more powerful than words. There was be no answer to the question; whatever no rigidity about it, no rule that everyone answer the mind gives must be wrong”. should meditate. Some told him their The answer comes as an awakening of pure personal troubles or tragedies, and his very consciousness, a current of awareness in gaze brought them consolation. New- the heart. Maharshi often said: “There are comers who had not yet understood his two ways; ask yourself ‘Who am I?’ or teachings asked doctrinal questions, which submit”. he would answer in detail. Some simply sat A visitor once asked whether the contact and gazed, feasting their eyes upon him. with the Guru would continue after the There was an informal attitude, as of a dissolution of his physical body, and he large family. replied : “The Guru is not the physical form, so contact will remain even after his physical form vanishes.” If it be asked how he can guide individuals or perform any

71 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA function after having become One with the the Maharshi made it his home. For Absolute, the answer is: in the first place Arunachala is said in the puranas to be he has not become one with the Absolute the heart of the universe and spiritually it but simply realised his pre-existing and signifies the most central path, Self Enquiry, eternal Oneness. leading to the Heart, the Self. In the second place, he had already realised The presence of the Maharshi and his this Oneness while wearing the body and potent grace are felt by an increasing was universal, then as he is now. He himself number of devotees. Many or most of those told us that death makes no difference to who come, both from India and abroad, the Jnani. The formless path which the are new people, who never saw the Maharshi prescribed compensates for the Maharshi in his lifetime but have been drawn modern difficulty in finding adequate to him in various ways since then. The guidance within the forms of any religion; conclusion, then, is that if you are a similarly, the invisible Guru compensates ritualist or strict formalist, if you crave for the modern difficulty in finding a fully material boons, if you seek visions or potent living Guru on earth. powers, there are other places better suited to you than Sri Ramanasramam. But Universal in Appeal if you have understood the ultimate spiritual goal of Liberation and seek Grace and Another result of the formless essential Guidance on the great path, you will find it nature of the Maharshi’s path is the large at Sri Ramanasramam. An important proportion of foreigners both among the characteristic of Sri Ramanasramam is that visitors and the resident devotees. There there is a minimum of ritual and is no need to be a Hindu to follow it. Anyone, organisation. People go and sit silent in whatever religion he professes, whether meditation before the Maharshi’s shrine or he professes any formal religion or not, in the hall where he sat for so many years can practise Self Enquiry or can worship with his devotees. They walk round Sacred and submit. Therefore, the Maharshi never Arunachala Hill or sit in their rooms. They expected any of his devotees to change visit or talk. They arrange to take their from one religion to another. Christians, meals at the Asramam or prepare their own Muslims, Jews, Buddhists and Parsis came food, as they choose. There is scarcely to him, as well as Hindus. Some continued any other discipline. The Vedas are to practise the forms of their religions, chanted in front of the shrine, morning and others not; it was up to them. evening, as they used to be in the Maharshi’s presence in his life-time, but The Uniqueness of the Shrine even for this the attendance is not and the Centre compulsory. - From Arthur Osborne’s Writings To come to the special significance of Tiruvannamalai or Arunachala as a spiritual centre again: It is not by accident that

72 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Srirangam-The Abode of Lord Ranganatha

B. RADHAKRISHNA RAO

Nature Smiles on Srirangam

Endowed with abundant natural beauty, the island of Srirangam is situated between the two tributaries of the Kaveri river, three miles to the north of Tiruchirapalli. The celebrated shrine of Sri Ranganatha, foremost in its sanctity and importance among all the Vaishnavite shrines of the South, stands majestically in the heart of this picturesque island. This shrine of great repute and antiquity attracts thousands of devotees drawn from the 283, contains the famous thousand-pillared various parts of the country throughout mantapam, from where the temple the year. What Chidambaram is to the precincts begin. In the three outermost Saivites, Srirangam is to the Vaishnavites. enclosures, there are shops and houses. The great annual festival of Vaikuntha The Shrine of Ranganatha Ekadasi is celebrated in the thousand- pillared mantapam. The huge temple dedicated to Lord Known as ‘ Villai’ Gopuram, the one facing Ranganatha here is surrounded by seven east is richly decorated with splendid enclosures (Saptaprakara ) inside which the sculptural figures. The Vimana of the temple major portion of this flourishing town is constructed in the shape of “Omkara” is a located. The outermost enclosure measures fascinating feature. The idol of more than 1000 yards by 800 yards. The Ranganatha, the presiding deity of the fourth enclosure, measuring 412 yards by place, depicts the Lord lying recumbent

73 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA on the serpentine couch. Near his feet are Srirangam through their exquisite the idols of his consorts. Bhu Devi and Neela compositions of great poetic excellence. Devi. The idol of Ranganatha is believed to Tradition associates the “Kamba have been worshipped by Sri Rama himself. Mandapam” in front of the sanctum with the great Tamil Poet Kamban. It is here Legendary Origins that he released his Ramayana to the masses. Legend has it that Sri Ranganatha as The temple was generously patronised by installed at Srirangam was worshipped in almost all the Hindu ruling dynasties of heaven by Brahma. The great king Ikshvaku South India. The idol of Ranganatha brought this idol to Ayodhya and escaped the ire of the Muslim Commander, worshipped it there. Hence, Ranganatha Malikkafur, who invaded the South, for the became the titular deity of Ikshvaku image had been removed to Tirupathi by dynasty. Sri Rama, the noble scion of the devotees. The sanctity of Srirangam Ikshvaku lineage, inherited it. After he is enhanced by the Kaveri and its tributary, returned from Lanka and was crowned, the Coleroon; these two encircle the Vibhishana who came along with him wanted sacred place of Sri Rangam, which thus to go back to Lanka. Sri Rama gave shines forth as a sacred island. A bath here Vibhishana this idol of Ranganatha, with is considered highly beneficial, when the the warning that the idol should not be Sun and Jupiter are in Libra. placed on the ground under any circumstances. As Vibhishana failed to carry Vaikuntha Ekadasi according to one of out the warning of Sri Rama and placed the Legends the image at Srirangam, it got stuck up there. Since then, tradition says, The main festival of Srirangam is Vaikuntha Ranganatha has stayed at Srirangam. The Ekadasi celebrated every year during the idols of , and month of December-January, when pilgrims Ramanujacharya are also found inside the from all parts of the country throng in sanctum. On the wall of the temple are lakhs. engraved stirring events from the The idol of Ranganatha is brought out of Ramayana, Mahabharatha and the Puranas. the sanctum through a gateway known as The collection of jewels owned by this “Paramapada Vasal”, (The Gateway to temple is unique and includes some fine Vaikuntha) and taken out in a colourful pieces, notable for their craftsmanship. procession. The legend about the origin of the celebration of Vaikuntha Ekadasi Association with Saints incorporated in Padma Purana is as follows: Once Vishnu, disgusted with the attack of Srirangam is associated with some of the the tyrant Mura, ran to Badrinath and slept greatest Vaishnavite Saints like Ramanuja, in a small cave called “Simhavati”. He asked Alavandar, , , etc. All Yogamaya to guard the entrance of the of them have glorified the sanctity of cave. Mura, who was following Vishnu

74 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA came to the entrance of the cave. Then Yogamaya created Ekadasi Devi, who Ananthasayanam instantly destroyed Mura. Being pleased B. RADHAKRISHNA RAO with Ekadasi Devi, Vishnu conferred on her the ability to destroy the sins of those who observed the Ekadasi. RIVANDRUM, the Capital of Kerala, situated to the extreme south of the The Jambukeshwar Shrine TIndian Peninsula, is one of the seven great Pilgrim Centres of Parasurama About a mile to the east of the Ranganatha Kshetra, and is famous for its hoary shrine Temple is a remarkable shrine dedicated to of Anantha Padmanabba. The imposing Lord Shiva. Surpassing the Ranganatha temple of Anantha Padmanabha here with Temple in its architectural grandeur, the its soaring lofty towers visible from miles Jambukeshwar Temple is the abode of one afar, is a great landmark of Trivandrum. of the five elemental Lingas. The Linga is The name “Trivandrum” is a distorted form surrounded on all sides by water and is of “Thiru-Ananthapuram”, meaning the installed under a Jambu tree. abode of Anantha - the sacred snake- couch of Vishnu. Ananthasayanam is also counted among the 108 Tirupathis venerated by Sri Vaishnavas. Many great Vaishnavite- apostles, like Ramanujacharya and Yamunacharya, are stated to have visited the temple and composed many verses in eulogy of Anantha Padmanabha Swami - the presiding deity of Trivandrum. The venerable sage Parasurama is believed to have built the temple of Anantha Padma- nabha. In “Skanda Purana”, Trivandrum is ranked with other 75 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA 30 important holy places like Rameswaram, Ananthavanam, where he found Vishnu in Gokarna, Kumbakonam, etc. The his colossal form lying on the thousand “Padmapurana” refers to the temple of hooded snake under a tree. It is said that Ananthasayana, where the Lord Vishnu is the figure of Vishnu was about 3 miles long. in his “Yoganidra”, absorbed in mystic At the request of Bilwamangala the Lord contemplation. Padmapurana also glorifies shrunk himself into a smaller form. It is Trivandrum by comparing it with other further stated that a wooden image of renowned “Vishnu Tirthas”, like Tirupathi Vishnu was prepared from a fallen tree at and Mathura. Ananthavanam and was then enshrined in The legend about the origin of the temple a temple. says that the place, where to-day stands The temple of Anantha Padmanabha the shrine of Anantha Padmanabha Swami, belongs to the last phase of Dravidian style. was covered with dense forest called The entrance Gopuram is a :fine specimen “Ananthavanam”. Near Ananthavanam of Dravidian style with a curious pagoda there lived a lowly couple, who were eking effect at its top. This seven storied out their livelihood by ploughing the field. Gopuram, made entirely of wood is lavishly One day while working in the field, the wife embellished with exuberant sculptural work. of this man came across a child of divine The Gopuram of the temple is somewhat beauty. She immediately took the child to squattish and tails fully to convey the her custody, and fed it from her breast. magnificent dignity of the other well-known Afterwards she placed the child under the Gopurams of the Tamilnadu temples. shade of a tree, where to her In the main courtyard, there stands an consternation, she found a Cobra protecting attractive Mantapam called “Kulashekara the child from the fury of the mid-day sun. Mantapam”, which is supported by as many Realising that the child is no other than as 365 pillars abounding in intricate floral the incarnation of Vishnu, the couple designs. The corridor of the temple is also offered milk and gruel to the child in a replete with sculptural works of remarkable coconut shell. Coming to know of this grandeur. A Dwajastambha, originally made incident, the pious ruler of Travancore of teak-wood and subsequently enveloped rushed to the spot, and had a temple built in golden plates by the Rulers of at this place. Another version regarding Travancore, is located in front of the the origin of the temple says that here a sanctum. The Navarathri Mantapam of the naughty child used to disturb Sri temple is an exquisite lithic translation of Bilwamangala Swami from his pooja to traditional wooden structure of Kerala. Saligrama. One day, in a fit of rage, The shrine of Ananthasayanam resembles Bilwamangala slapped the child, and the a typical Nepali temple in many respects. child disappeared. When Bilwamangala The location of the sanctum, the execution came to know that the child was none as well as the style of the Mantapam bear other than Vishnu, he repented and went testimony to the imprints of Nepali style. in search of the Lord. After an arduous The colossal image of the presiding deity search, Bilwamangala reached the holiest

76 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA depicts the Lord reclining on serpant couch. other deities like Sridevi, Bhudevi, Niladevi The sanctum, where the majestic and and lesser divinities and sages. There are colossal Anantha Padmanabha Swami a number of cells in the temple wherein reclining on the thousand-hooded various other deities, like Narasimha, Adishesha is enshrined, is divided into three Subrahmanya, Ganapathy are enshrined. According to tradition the temple is at least 3000 years old. It is said that 4000 masons, 6000 carpenters and 1000 elephants toiled with devotion to erect this magnificent temple. Every day in the afternoon, rice is being offered to the Lord in a golden bowl shaped like a coconut shell in commemoration of the offering of the food to Lord in a coconut shell by the lowly couple. Poojas are offered to Lord three times a day. One can enter the temple wearing only Dhoties, and no shirts or upper covering. The most important festival celebrated here is compartments. One can have a full view “Kodiyetram” falling in the month of of the Lord only by doing obeisance at all Meenam (March-April). On the ninth day the three compartments into which the of the festival the Maharaja takes part in sanctum is divided. In the first compartment a huge procession. He goes for a hunt and is seen the massive hood of Adishesha and in a mock-hunt he shoots arrows at three the tranquil face of the Lord, while in the . middle compartment is seen the body of The Maharajas of Travancore have been the Lord with his navel from which ruling their territory as Padmanabhadasa - emanates a lotus containing Brahma, the the servant of the Lord Padmanabha. This four- faced creator of the worlds. The third title is their distinctive royal insignia. compartment gives a view of the Lord’s redeeming and sanctifying feet. The Presiding Deity is flanked on all sides by

77 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA

Sivagiri P. PARAMESWARAN

IVAGlRI is a pilgrim centre, where As was stated earlier, the importance of the ancient and the modern, the ‘Sivagiri is solely due to its association with Sspiritual and the material, stand Sri Guru, who was born in the happily wed-locked. Ezhava Community, a very important and influential Caste among the Hindus of Hallowed by Associations Kerala, who were treated by the Hindus as untouchables - even ‘Sivagiri’ has the unique distinction of being unapproachable - for a long time, and whom a pilgrim centre, whose history is not the great Guru emancipated from the shrouded in vague mythology or age-old miserable condition, and led forward to a legends. It is one of the most recent position of great eminence in the socio- centres of pilgrimage, owing its sanctity political as well as economic life of Kerala. and appeal to the great Saint and religious He, along with his chief followers like Maha reformer of Kerala, Sri Kavi Kumaran Asan, who is also one of the (1854-1928). Devotees and disciples of the foremost poets of Kerala and Dr. Palpu, both Guru began to throng to this beautiful spot, of whom drew inspiration from Swami hallowed by his long associations, from the Vivekananda as well, organised the Ezhava 1st of January, 1928. Even though ‘Sivagiri’ community under the name, ‘Sanatana as a pilgrim centre is of recent origin, it Dharma Paripalana Yogam’. The Yogam lies in close proximity to another holy place played a vital part, in purging the society of country-wide fame Varkala Janardhanam. of many a social evil and superstition and Janardhanam is renowned as Dakshina Kasi, moulded it into a modern enlightened and attracts a large number of pilgrims from community. all over the country. The Guru came to Varkala, for the first It is referred to, even in very ancient time in the year 1924, during the course Puranas, as a highly sanctified pilgrim of his incessant wanderings. The place centre. The proximity of both these, makes charmed him. He found it pre-eminently them almost inseparable, and pilgrims suited to be his spiritual head-quarters. coming from far and near have the His world famous disciple, Sri Nataraja Guru, advantage of offering their worship in both describes the place in the following words. the places. Sri Narayana Guru and SNDP Yogam, Sivagiri lies very near Varkala Varkala : Aspects of Sublime Beauty railway station, situated at a distance of over 20 miles at the Sarada Mandir from Varkala was not a populous place. The Trivandrum, mid-way between Trivandrum blackened rocks that cut into the and Quilon. greenness of the slopping hills, looked hard 78 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA and unyielding. The seekers after ease and Temples and Schools pleasure had, therefore, deserted this place and lived nearer the sea-coast where the Naturally drawn to this godly place of rare abundance of fish, moisture and fertility beauty, the Guru made this his abode and favoured the proliferation of human life. centre of activity. He called it ‘Sivagiri’ the Away from the competition and strife of mountain of Lord Siva, At first, he erected daily life the Guru sat on the hill top, a Siva temple at that place, and later still, removed from the highways of business. a most beautiful shrine of “Sarada” was To him the neglected spot had its aspects consecrated. Besides this, the Guru also of sublime beauty. Hidden behind the started two schools, one with English and apparently unchanging fixity of the rocks another with Sanskrit as medium at Sivagiri. the meditative eyes of the Guru could see These facts go to show unmistakably the great importance attached by the Guru to Sivagiri, which he considered as the centre of his spiritual radiation. It was at this sacred spot of enviable natural scenery that both Maha-Kavi Rabindranath Tagore and came to pay their respects to Sri Narayana Guru the years 1923 and 1925 respectively.

Perennial Springs the principle of change and becoming. The So, it was but natural that the disciples of ancient breezes that rose far away on the the Guru thronged to this place in large ocean’s breast, greeted him where he sat. numbers. The high medicinal quality of the The star-lit nights were rich with distant crystal clear water perennially rushing out murmur of the waves. from the numerous springs on the sides of At the foot of the barren rocks, hidden the hills lent it an additional attraction. It amongst the growth of fern, crystal springs had already become an unofficial pilgrim perennially formed themselves into gurgling centre, long before it was declared as such streams. The virgin beauty of the spot by the Guru. It was at the express desire could not be discovered by the vulgar eyes of some of his prominent devotees that of hate or greed. To the Guru, as he himself the Guru prescribed and laid down in detail used to say, it was the ‘Punya Bhoomi’ (Holy the mode as well as the aim and objects Land), where the signs of human pettiness of the pilgrimage to this place. From 1928 and greed were not in evidence. January onwards, every year, it began to

79 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA attract ever bigger crowds from all over instructed, should chant devotional songs Kerala and even from outside. on their way. The Guru was personally present on the occasion of the first pilgrimage, but later Sense of Purpose in the same year he entered into Maha Samadhi. From that time onwards, the “There should be definite aims before the attraction of Sivagiri began to be more pilgrims”, the Guru insisted, and enumerated deeply felt. eight of them as follows: Education, cleanliness, devotion to God, organisation, Purity: Pancha Suddhi agriculture, trade, crafts and technical training. The occasion should be made use Pilgrims, who came to Sivagiri wear yellow garments, and sport yellow flags and also yellow banners on which are depicted the Guru’s immortal teachings. The Guru, in his own native, simple style, had indicated to his devotees that the yellow colour was traditionally sacred, since it was associated with the lives of Bhagavan Krishna and Buddha and that it would be appropriate to the occasion. He prescribed January 1st, which falls on 16th or 17th of the Malayalam month, Dhanu, as the date on which the pilgrims should converge on Sivagiri. It broadly coincides with the famous Sabari Mala pilgrim season. It is now one of the most colourful festivals of Kerala. Compared to the discipline usually associated with other pilgrimages, Sivagiri pilgrims observe ten days of “Vrata” and follow the “ Pancha ” of Sri Buddha of for holding classes on these topics. - Purity of body, food, mind, speech and Persons well-versed in these subjects action, because other long and hard should be invited to give talks, and people disciplines are difficult to be observed by should be trained to listen to them in a masses of men. He was extremely particular disciplined and attentive manner. They that the occasion should not be one of should be persuaded to put into practice extravagance or ostentation. Cleanliness whatever they are told. We should succeed and frugality are to be the key-note for in this. Then, the country and the people the pilgrimage. Pilgrims, the Guru will prosper. This must be the main objective before, Sivagiri pilgrimage.

80 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Spiritual Blended with Material Pilgrimage to

These instructions from the Guru show that Sabari Mala he wanted to combine spiritual with material B. RADHAKRISHNA RAO benefit. He strongly cautioned against huge masses of people, aimlessly wandering, squandering valuable money, which could s the season for the pilgrimage to be better utilised for really useful purposes; Sabari Mala commences, the he wanted Sivagiri pilgrimage to be an Aatmosphere in the whole of Kerala occasion for positive and constructive reverberates with the shouts of training of men. While inculcating piety and “Swamiyae-Saranam-Ayyappa”. One can devotion to God, it should also help them see the myriads of devotees of Lord to become enlightened and responsible Ayyappa, clad in black garments and their members of the society. forehead besmeared- with sacred ash, Pilgrimage to Sivagiri was simultaneously chanting this hymn in obeisance to Lord to be a pilgrimage for a better and a more Ayyappa in every nook and corner of Kerala prosperous life. True to the Guru’s teaching, during December and January. Known as Sivagiri pilgrimages have ever since been “Ayyappas”, the most cherished desire of memorable occasions for both spiritual and these pilgrims is to get to Sabari Mala, the material upliftment. Lectures on religious highly venerated shrine of the season. and secular subjects, educative exhibitions The most striking feature of the shrine and other useful items are inseparable parts situated at Sabari Mala is that it is kept of the pilgrimage. open only during December and January. The one thing that will stand out more Girls and young women are strictly prominently than anything else before a prohibited from undertaking a pilgrimage to person who goes to Sivagiri, whether during Sabari Mala. The three important festivals normal days or during the pilgrimage celebrated at Sabari Mala are” Mandala seasons, is the remarkable cleanliness which Pooja”, “Makara Vilakku “ and “”. is so evident there. Everyone of the large That more than two million pilgrims thronged number of temples consecrated by the this hill shrine during last year (1972-1973) Guru, is a model for cleanliness, but the is an unmistakable pointer to the ‘Sarada Mandir’ at Sivagiri is the one par phenomenal popularity registered by the” excellence. lt is really the embodiment of Ayyappa Cult” during the last decade. the Guru’s ideas of how a modern place of Pilgrims come to Sabari Mala not only from worship ought to be. the various parts of India but also from far lts grandeur must be seen to be believed. away continents like America and Australia.

Holy Sabari Malai

The shrine dedicated to Ayyappa, otherwise known as “Dharma Shastha”, the Lord of

81 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Verities, is set amidst the exhilarating Lord Vishnu, assumed the form of a Mohini scenery of Sabari Hills spread over Central (enchantress) at the time of the Kerala. Situated at a distance of 40 miles distribution of the nectar that was drawn from Kottayam, the Sabari Hills abound in from the churning of the milky ocean. The thick jungles infested with ferocious Divine Mohini distributed all the nectar to beasts. the Gods, depriving the demons of a share, The temple is built on top of a mound about as they stood stupefied by the superficial 20 feet in height and is spread over an feminine charms of her form. area of nearly half an acre. This most Hara, Lord Shiva, witnessing the bewitching important centre of Hindu pilgrimage in form of Mohini, yielded to its fascinations. Kerala has been from ancient times a great The offspring of his union with Mohini was source of inspiration and focus of faith for a male child of celestial charm. Tying a innumerable devotees of Lord Ayyappa. golden bell round the child’s neck, Shiva How does the place come left the child to the care to be called Sabari Mala? of the Gods in the thick of There is a legend in this the forest. regard. In the days of yore, At this juncture, the great Sage Matanga had Rajasekhara, the Ruler of his Ashram here. A tribal Pandalam, in the heart of woman by name Sabari was Kerala, happened to pass cleaning the Ashram every by. The issueless King was day without his knowing it. overjoyed to come across One day Matanga saw a child of divine beauty. He Sabari cleaning his Ashram. took the child to the palace Being pleased with her and named the child service, he allowed her to “Manikantha” on account of live in a hut situated near its having a bell round the his Ashram. Further, he neck. prophesied that Lord Rama Manikantha blossomed into would grant “Darsana” to her in her last a handsome and talented youth. Meanwhile, days. Accordingly, Rama came to the place the queen also gave birth to a male child. of Sabari and blessed her. Since Sabari When the time came to appoint an heir- attained salvation here the hill came to be apparent to the throne, the King decided called Sabari Mala (“Mala” in Malayalam to crown Manikantha and asked his Diwan meaning “hill”). to make necessary arrangements for the coronation. The Queen, who wanted her Advent of Ayyappa own son to be crowned was greatly upset, when she came to know that Manikantha Sri Ayyappa is considered to be the son of was chosen for coronation. Hari-Hara. The mythological anecdote about The jealous Queen in league with the Diwan the manifestation of Ayyappa says: Hari, hatched a conspiracy to get rid of

82 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Manikantha. One day the Queen feigned The Austerities illness and moaned as if in great pain of physical excruciation. The pilgrimage to Sabari Mala is uniquely The royal physician (as instructed by the exalting in many ways, the most Diwan) prescribed a dose of leopard’s milk outstanding aspect of it being its levelling as the remedy for the Queen’s illness. But up or equalising effect. A set of austerities who was to secure the leopard’s milk? usually described as “ Vrata” has to be Manikantha came forward and promised to strictly observed for a period of 41 days bring a cupful of leopard’s milk. While preceding the day of pilgrimage by those Manikantha departed to the forest on his who intend to visit Sabari Mala. The mission, the Queen was overjoyed with the observance of the “Vrata” commences from thought that he would never return. While the first day of the Malayalam month, wending his way through the forest, Vrischika, with the wearing of rosary in Manikantha came across a fierce-looking the precincts of a temple. This practice of demoness, Mahishi (she-buffalo). In a wearing rosary called “Maaladharana” bloody battle that ensued, Manikantha slew betokens the pilgrim’s determination or her and thus fulfilled the purpose of his resolve to adhere strictly to vows incarnation. prescribed. To the consternation of all, Manikantha From then onwards he should refrain from returned before long to the Kingdom riding indulging in the pleasures of the senses on a tiger followed by a procession of and keep himself away from sensual leopards. Everyone, including the Queen, thoughts. As Lord Ayyappa is considered realised that Manikantha was none other to be a bachelor at Sabari Mala, the pilgrim than the supremely divine being. The Queen should observe celibacy. He should dress apologised and begged for pardon. himself in black or blue garments, grow a Manikantha then declared that the object beard and keep his hair untrimmed. This of his incarnation had been achieved. After creates a feeling of oneness among the advising the King to erect a shrine for him pilgrims, besides marking them off as a and also instructing him on the nature of class by themselves for their distinctive the austerities to be performed by devotees austerity. before undertaking a pilgrimage to the The pilgrim, who has adopted the “Vrata,” shrine, he disappeared. Accordingly the King may partake only simple and pure food and built a temple in which the idol of Ayyappa ought to abstain from taking flesh and was enshrined by Parasurama (the Rama intoxicating drinks. His life should be of the battle axe) on the auspicious day regulated by ablutions and prayers at dawn of Makara Sankramana. Thus this sacred and dusk. He should get up early in the spot and shrine became the centre of Hari morning and visit a temple. In short, all his Hara devotion. activities should be attuned to a divine purpose and bent towards acquiring divine grace.

83 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Whenever two such pilgrims meet, they While the pouring of ghee over the idol of greet each other with “Swamiyae Ayyappa symbolises the merger of the Sharanam” (Oh Lord Ayyappa, prostrations individual soul with the universal soul, the to thee). On one of the 41 days of the throwing of the coconut into the fire period of austerities the “Ayyappa Vilakku” symbolises the death of the material body. is performed accompanied by colourful Though there are a number of routes rituals and religious processions. The leading to Sabari Mala, the one via Erumeli, austerities observed by the pilgrims are which is the longest and the most arduous, symbolic of self-surrender and renunciation is however preferred by the pilgrims, for it required for the great journey of the soul is believed that the Lord trekked this path to the “Supreme Being.” when he went in search of leopard’s milk. Pilgrims reach Erimali by bus or car and The Arduous Trek from here they have to walk bare-foot for a distance of 45 miles. The most important of the preliminaries for The long, hazardous trek from Erumeli takes this unique pilgrimage is the preparation of the pilgrims across the formidable mountain “Iru Mudi Kattu” (bundle with two ranges and through dense jungles infested compartments). It may be recalled here with wild animals, before they enter this that Lord Ayyappa carried with him a similar holiest of holy hill shrine. The journey is bundle at the time of his forest mission thrilling and adventurous all through. when he undertook to fetch leopard’s milk. The pilgrims have to cross huge mountains, The front portion of the bundle is filled namely Azutha, Kari Mala and Neeli Mala; with the offerings to the Lord, which on their way. For the most part the track include a ghee-filled coconut. The hind is rugged and tortuous; big boulders, wild portion contains the personal requisites like creepers and roots of the giant trees eatables required during the pilgrimage. The encumber it at a number of points. filling up and tying of Iru Mudi is done at a This strenuous trek through mountains and special ceremony called “Kettunera”. forests is an adventure of no mean order. The esoteric significance of “Irumudi” is The cacophanous cries of the wild beasts that it symbolises the victory of the spirit freely roaming in the jungles of Sabari hills over matter. While the front part of this send a chill down one’s spine. Elephants bundle represents the , the rear portion move about here in herds and the pilgrim’s stands for the man’s “Prarabdha Karma” course crosses their trails from time to time. and his worldly desires. The ascent of the mountain ranges is By the time the pilgrims reach the shrine tedious and dangerous, the descent is even of Ayyappa, the rear portion of the bundle more perilous; a single faltering step can becomes emptied. This is symbolic of lead to disaster. The tedium of the journey Prarabdha Karma becoming worked off or vanishes in no time as one communes here exhausted. Now what remains with the with splendid natural beauty. Looking pilgrims is the ghee-filled coconut along around, one beholds here a magnificent with other offerings.

84 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA panorama of verdant valleys, lofty mountain of mountains, pilgrims reach the out-skirts peaks and deep gorges. of . Leaving behind the Azutha mountain the The sight of the temple fills the pilgrims pilgrims start their ascent of Kari Mala which heart with immense ecstasies. The cries literally means “the abode of elephants”. of “Swamiyae Saranam Ayyappa” rend the Right on top of this mountain is a water atmosphere as they approach the sacred spring, which makes the place suitable for eighteen steps leading up to the shrine. a day’s camp. Perhaps, nowhere else have the steps The most remarkable feature of the leading to a temple been given such great “Ayyappa Cult” is that a feeling of fraternity significance as those in Sabari shrine. manifests itself spontaneously among the These steps are said to represent the pilgrims at the camping sites. It is really a various Indriyas (senses), and Gunas fascinating sight to see the pilgrims (qualities) of man. As the pilgrims climb belonging to various castes and social the sacred 18 steps, which symbolise the strata’s, helping one another in arranging 18 elements, the souls transcend these the camps and preparing food, chanting within the body, in order to reveal the all the while hymns in praise of Lord resplendence which hitherto had been Ayyappa. enveloped by layers of Maya (illusion). After a strenuous descent of Karimala, the Pilgrims slowly climb these venerated steps, pilgrims reach the long awaited Pampa, the one by one, striking a coconut against the banks of which abound in sceneries of steps that correspond to the number of heavenly beauty. The very sight of this their visits. After mounting the 18 steps, sacred river thrills them and makes them they behold the glorious sight of Lord forget their fatigue. A dip in the limpid Ayyappa, which fills their heart with waters of Pampa banishes their fatigue and overflowing joy. On top, in front of the instantly revivifies their flagged spirits. eighteenth step, can be seen The banks of Pampa are considered sacred, burning throughout the day and night during as it was here that Ayyappa manifested these days. A strange phenomenon which himself as Manikantha. Dawn and sunset the pilgrims witness here on the auspicious here are marvellous phenomena, a sight fit day of “Makara ” is the for the gods to see. The camp on the banks appearance of a star-like celestial light of of this river constitutes the most enjoyable indescribable splendour on the northern part of the journey. Under the canopy of corner of the horizon. Known as “Makara star studded night sky, pilgrims sleep Jyothi”, this inexplicable miracle lasts for soundly without any fear whatsoever of half an hour. It is generally believed that the blood-thirsty beasts that may be the Lord comes down to Sabari Mala on lurking in the darkness. The Lord’s name this day to bless his devotees. becomes their sole protective armour. After climbing the stupendous Neelimala, in comparison with the other two, Azutha and Karimala, can rightly be called the emperor

85 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA CHOTTANIKKARA not get any bronze vessel to conduct the “naivedya”, he managed it in a coconut shell. The antique temple belonged to 7.5 gramams, of whom the celebrated The Village and the Temple Kakkasseri Bhattathiri who had defeated the great scholar, Uddanda Sastri was one. N the village of Chottanikara in Kerala Kakkasseri performed Bhajanas in the is one of the few Maha Devi temples temple. Iconsecrated by Bhargava Rama in different corners of Bharat for the Haunted Women Relieved protection of the country. Many are the mysterious anecdotes connected with the One can come across a number of haunted great temple, where hundreds of devotees women in the temple, who come there for daily come to worship seeking solace for Bhajanas in the firm belief that the Devi all their afflictions from the Devi who is will disentangle them. The haunted women known by different names such as Gowri, stand before the Devi dancing when the Saraswathi, Lakshmi and Durga. The village door is closed for noon “naivedyas”, and is situated four miles from Tirupunitura in when the door opens they feel that they Kerala. are all directed to approach the Bhadra Kali deity in the Kizha temple standing The Stone that Bled in the eastern part of the eastern tank. The Bhadra Kali controls the ghosts, who Where now stands the temple, stood a dark haunt them. If “Yantram” (charm) filled and dense forest in the days of the with the soil taken from the pedestal of forgotten past. It was said that one day a Bhadra Kali is worn, they would be free woman who went to the forest to cut from the haunt of ghosts. grass, sharpened her scythe on a stone, when suddenly gushed out, to the The “Guruthi” Antidote bewilderment and terror of the poor woman, blood out of the stone. The frightened Offering of “Guruthi” to Bhadra Kali is an woman shrieked aloud. The men who lived excellent antidote to ward off the attack nearby, hearing the shrieks, ran to the spot, of ghosts. Guruthi is a solution prepared where they saw what had happened. They out of turmeric and lime water, which looks at once informed the leading men of the exactly like blood. Many women dance and place, who visited the spot. They were all shriek when Guruthi is offered. convinced that there was a deity there. The annual festival of the temple takes They soon constructed a temple and place for nine days in the month of conducted “archanas” and “naivedyas”. Kumbham (February 15th to March 15th). That is now the famous and popular On all the nine days the Arattu ceremony Chottanikara temple. Edattu Namboodiri (ablution of the deity) is conducted in all was the Poojari (), who first performed pooja to the deity. As he could 86 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA the four tanks unlike in other temples, Kaladi where it is performed only on the last day. The Swamiar’s Vision The popular belief is B. RADHAKRISHNA RAO that Villu-Mangalath Swamiar pays his visit on one of the days of the celebrations on the Makham day, when the Swamiar is The Panorama of Shankara’s received with due rites. The story is that Achievements the Swamiar took his bath in the southern tank and started to worship the Devi. He HE very mention of the word “Kaladi” saw in his mental vision that Devi’s lock of brings before our mind’s eye the hair was lying on the ground. The Swamiar fascinating panorama of Sri went kneeling in order to avoid treading T Shankara’s achievements, who, taking birth on the Devi’s lock of hair. On the Makham at a crucial turning point of India’s history day more people gather than on any other reinstated the pristine glory of Hinduism day. by vanquishing decadent Buddhism and Fantastic are one’s experiences inside the warding off its influence on the social and temple. A fervent devotee, who stands spiritual life of the people. When Adi before the Devi offering prayers feels the Shankara appeared on the Indian scene, throbbing of his heart with ecstasy as if the nation was perilously hanging on the he is enjoying celestial bliss. The mystery brink of degradation, owing to the spiritual of this is something, the depth of which bankruptcy, religious anarchy and social no human being can fathom. It is said that strife that were so common. many devotees have been magically Sri Shankara re-kindled the lamp of India’s rescued from grave calamities that had wisdom and culture lighted up by the Divine befallen them and their families. sense of ancient sages, seers, saints and selfless thinkers, which re-vitalised Police Officer’s Personal Testimony Hinduism and set it again on the path of progress. By establishing four One Police Circle Inspector of Kerala who at the four strategic quarters of the is a zealous devotee of Chottanikara temple country, Shankara showed that the people says that any affliction befalling humanity of India were bound together in the in- would be warded off and his wish fulfilled, dissoluble bonds of “common heritage, if he approached the Devi with due common values, common ideas and common devotion. Of this power of the Devi he was culture”. convinced from his own personal experience. Birth and Early -By courtesy of Bhavan’s Journal from the issue dated August 5, 1962. Kaladi is a quiet village on the banks of the gently flowing pellucid Poorna river in the heart of picturesque Kerala. In Kaladi, there lived a pious Namboodiri couple, Shiva Guru 87 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA and Aryamba, who were childless for a long The four Peethas established by time. They prayed to Vadakka Natha, the Shankara presiding deity of Trichur for a son, and as a result of Divine grace, to them was born Shankara established four “Peethas” in the in the year 788 A.D. Sri four cardinal points of the country, two at Shankara was an infant prodigy, and by Dwaraka and Puri on the sea-shore and the time he was eight he mastered the one each on the banks of Alaka Nanda in teachings of Vedic and Upanishadic lore. the snow-swathed divine Himalayas and Determined as he was to become a of the Tunga flowing gently amidst the Sannyasin, he was able to play a trick on picturesque . The vast his Mother. He created a fantasy of having expanse of the sea, the towering mountain been caught by a crocodile, when he went ranges and the meandering whispers of the to the river to have his bath. Then the soft-flowing rivers, abutting scenes of boy Shankara claimed if she would give Sylvan beauty are the choice spots of permission to him to become a Sannyasin, Shankara. Scenes of absorbing beauty the crocodile would leave him alone. The dispel mundane thoughts and radiate Mother gave her consent reluctantly. The spiritual waves. crocodile released Shankara and went away After dispelling the decadent forces against as mysteriously as it had come. spiritual revival and re-establishing the supremacy of Hinduism, Shankara left his The Preceptor Govinda Pada and mortal coil at the young age of 32. Within Shankara’s Digvijaya a short span of 32 years he was able to acquire, achieve and establish a new era Walking out of Kerala, the young ascetic in the cultural . From Badri Shankara travelled northwards and reached and Kedar to Kanya Kumari and the banks of Narmada, where he met the Rameswaram, numerous temples and other venerated Preceptor, Govinda Pada. Sri institutions proclaim the great service Shankara, who was fascinated by the vast rendered by Shankara to Hinduism. erudition of Govinda Pada, at once accepted him as his Guru. From here begins Kaladi with Its Original Halo Restored Shankara’s unique, religious expeditions and philosophical conquests. This celebrated Kaladi, which is full of the halo of Apostle of Advaita travelled all over India Shankara’s birth- after a period of neglect, and defeated the adherents of several has again come into its own. It was Sri other schools in open debate, and by the Narasimha Bharati of Sringeri Sharada sheer power of his towering intellect Peetha, who decided to unfold the hidden combated all the evils of the religious and glories of Kaladi and through his social life, besetting the nation, as a whole. endeavours were discovered the place of birth of Shankara, the place of cremation of the body of his Mother and other places associated with the life of Sri Shankara at

88 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Kaladi. Sri Narasimha Bharati, a spiritual teachings of the have gone into genius of very high order, built the twin the furnishing of these two structures, temple of Sarada and Shankara and a which reflect the self-realization of the memorial over the Samadhi of Aryamba at great Sachidananda Narasimha Bharati. Kaladi, which had since become a place of pilgrimage, a seat of traditional learning Sringeri Jagadguru’s Interest and a centre of spiritual illumination worthy of the great Master. In 1927, Jagadguru Sri Chandra Sekhara Bharati visited Kaladi in the course of his The Munificence of Rulers and Dewans South Indian tour and celebrated Shankara Jayanthi there. He constructed a street of A former Dewan of and a houses (Agrahara) at Kaladi for Maharaja of erstwhile Travancore State accommodating the priests of the temple. rendered magnificent assistance to the One Vidya Tirtha Swamigal paid frequent noble endeavour of building the twin visits to Kaladi, and improved the same to temples of Sarada and Shankara. The a very great extent. In 1970 the whole Jagadguru Narasimha Bharathi, who left temple was completely renovated and a Sringeri in February 1907 on a tour of the research centre with all the amenities was southern districts reached Kaladi a few days built. To the north of the Shankara shrine before the consecration of the temples. is the temple of Krishna, a typical Kerala The consecration of the shrines was done structure wood and with gabled roofs. This on February 21, 1910 on a scale so lavish temple known to have been erected by that it still lingers in the minds of thousands Shankara from Kaladi is the shrine of of people who had the privilege of Katyayani Bhagavati, the presiding deity witnessing it. of which was the tutelary deity of Shankara’s family. The Fascinating Set-up of the Shrines Dr. , the first President of India, after visiting Kaladi observed: “Kaladi The two shrines, facing south are stellate, is a place of historic importance and it is the spire rising like a terraced cone. The only in the fitness of things, that, now Vimana of the Sarada temple is of that we are free, every effort should be Ashtapadma form (eight-angled) made to revive its old glory and re-establish representing the eight petals of Hridaya the place which it ought to have in our Kamala, while that of the Shankara temple National life.” is of Sodasa Kona form (sixteen-angled) corresponding to the sixteen Kalas of Divinity. Around the Vimana of the Sarada temple are niches in angles for the Mathrika . Shankara is enshrined in his Dakshina Murthy aspect. Such profound mystic concepts that are embedded in the

89 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA covering the temple compound and KODUNGALLUR glistening in the sun lends an air of purity and simple charm to the place. The old Peepal and banyan trees, standing like odungallur, situated at about the sentinels all around the temple buildings, centre of Kerala on the sea-coast, give a touch of majestic antiquity to the Kis reputed to have been the most picture, while the surrounding green lawns well-known port on the west coast of India and the extensive gardens full of coconut during the days of ancient “Hellenic palms and interspersed with areca nut, Civilization”. She was then known as Port jack-fruit, mango, tamarind and other trees, Muziris ( derived from the Sanskrit word make up indeed an enchanting sight. The maricha meaning pepper). Her glory main temple building and the subsidiary continued unbroken for a long time and it structures are constructed in a very simple, is widely believed that under the name old style, with, of course, the usual Vanchi, she subsequently became famous beautified carvings on the granite pillars as the capital city of Kerala, during the and the wooden ceiling. The roofs are of days of Peru mal rule. Later on, she became copper-plates and the floor paved with involved in the fights and battles between granite slabs. The simplicity, purity and the chieftains of Kerala, which became beauty of the environments strike us as a more and more destructive with the advent fitting back-ground, when we set our eyes of the Portuguese and subsequently of the on the majestic and beautiful life-size image Dutch. of the Goddess decked in gold and installed Gradually, Cranganore began to lose her in the sanctum sanctorum. The serried ancient glory and prosperity and got herself ranks of devotees, hailing from far-flung relegated to the modest position of a small places, bow low before this image with half- town-ship that she now is. With all these closed eyes, full of devotion and vissicitudes Kodungallur is now a place of respectfully calling her out by name. To worship for people of all religions them she is no mere image but a living irrespective of cast and creed. reality presiding over the destinies of all.

The Temple and Its Festivals Facilities for Travel

The temple of the Goddess is built on an With added facilities for travel, the extensive plot of level ground sufficiently Cranganore Bhagavati temple is attracting spacious to accommodate the large more and mare devotees, day by day. The concourse of devotees, who gather there place is almost equi-distant from Trichur for the annual “Bharani festival”, which and Ernakulam on the Southern Railway usually is celebrated in March-April every system. Most of the intending pilgrims from year. The whole of Kodungallur is a sandy the North and East alight at Trichur and region and the site at the temple is no reach Cranganore by bus or by car within exception. The rain-washed white sand an hour. Those from the South get down

90 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA at Ernakulam and travel to Cranganore by here. Whatever the explanation, almost all bus or by car or by motor- boat. When devotees regard the presiding deity as the any form of epidemic is raging or after an gracious Divine Mother and address her as attack of small-pox or any such serious such with love and affection and in disease, the devotees generally consider respectful terms, and it is their unshaken it desirable and necessary to visit this belief that she showers her blessings on temple and propitiate the Goddess. everyone of her true devotees. The Cranganore Bhagavati temple is one Origins of the Shrine Legendary of the richest temples in Kerala. It owns extensive plots of coconut gardens and The origin of the Cranganore Bhagavati paddy fields yielding a large income. temple is shrouded in antiquity. Tradition Besides these, the offerings of gold, red- has it that Parasurama, who is reputed to silk, pepper, turmeric, goats and money have reclaimed the whole of Kerala from aggregate to a considerable amount every the ocean, built this temple also and year. A good portion of this is now utilised installed the Goddess in it for the for the maintenance of poorer temples and protection and prosperity of the people. for kindred purposes. Some would have us believe that this temple Opinion among the devotees of this temple was once a Buddhist Vihar, and that it is almost unanimous now that in diverting ceased to be such and became a temple such funds for other purposes, the needs only after Adi Sankaracharya (whose birth- and interests of this temple should not be place, Kaladi is in the neighbourhood) over-looked. established his spiritual domain allover India. Whatever be the basis for these Daily Routine of Worship differing views, there is no gainsaying the fact that the Bhagavati temple at The daily worship in this temple begins at Cranganore is one of the most ancient and 3 a.m. and the last worship ends at 8 p.m. important Devi temples of India. Regarding The Thalapoli (celebrated in January) and the nature of the deity installed, there is a the Bharani (celebrated in March-April) are variety of traditions and beliefs. the most well-known festivals of this place. Of these the Thalapoli which is celebrated The Sealed-room of the Temple and Its all four consecutive days when the image Mystic Power of the Goddess is taken out in a grand procession, both during day and night, with In the temple there are three separate a guard of honour provided by richly sacred places of worship (one of which is caprisoned elephants, with all the usual a small room hermetically closed from public paraphernalia and a tumultuous riot of view), which endow the popular mind with sound and illuminations provided by deep awe and reverence. Still others innumerable drums and pipes, pop-guns believe that its power is derived from the and fire-works and attended by thousands Sree Chakram that was originally installed

91 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA of devotees in gala dress, is a spectacle Guruvayur: Kerala’s worth-witnessing. Sacred Abode of The Bharani festival, though less colourful, Lord Krishna is considered to be more important from a spiritual point of view, and it usually B. RADHAKRISHNA RAO attracts larger crowds of people and pilgrims not only from all parts of Kerala but also from other distant places. The most important item of worship during this Setting on Earth with a Celestial Legend festival is performed on the Aswati day, when the three oldest members of the URUVAYUR, located at a distance three Adigal families conduct a special and of 17 miles from the busy town of secret worship in the sanctum sanctorum G Trichur in Central Kerala, is one for a continuous period of three hours. The” of the most prominent pilgrim-centres of prasadam” distributed after this worship is India, renowned for its celebrated shrine considered by the devotees to be a of Lord Krishna. There is an unceasing flow sovereign remedy for all physical, mental of thousands of devotees drawn from the and spiritual ills. In former days, fowls in various parts of the country into this their thousands used to be sacrificed in sacred abode of Lord Krishna almost all the front of the temple, during the days of the year round. There are more imposing Bharani festival. Now it is prohibited by religious structures in our country, but the statute and hence discontinued. Instead, divine aura and mystic halo pervading the the fowls intended for sacrifice are now atmosphere of this simple shrine at once offered to the deity as live creatures. captivates the devotees and takes them From time immemorial Devi worship has to the sublime heights of purest spiritual been in vogue throughout Kerala, as women ecstasy. Countless are the reports of ‘divine folk are given an honoured place in society. intervention’ and ‘miraculous cure’ effected Even today there is practically no village by divine grace at Guruvayur. in Kerala which has not a Devi shrine. But Situated amidst the most inspiring, this place of pride and precedence is readily enchanting scenic settings, surrounded on given to the Cranganore Devi or Bhagavati all sides by tall grown coconut palms and who consequently attracts the largest lush green vegetation, the temple both by number a devotees and pilgrims in the its architectural uniqueness and religion. That life and teachings of geographical setting symbolises the co- Bhagavan Sri Ramakrishna Paramahamsa existence of the blend of perfect interior have given a fillip to Devi worship, and this poise existing together with equally poised has given a greater impetus to the flow of exterior activity, of solitude in society; of pilgrims to the Kodungallur temple. the very idea of Man and his own integral perfection, all inclusive, yet all negating. The comely image of Sri Krishna consecrated at Guruvayur is known to have

92 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA been worshipped by Brahma in the spot, where the idol could be installed. At beginning. This divinely resplendent idol was last he espied a beautiful place with a fine subsequently handed over by Brahma to crystal lotus tank in the midst of rich foliage pious Kasyapa couple, believed to be of coconut palm on the western coast, reborn in their third regeneration in the which at once struck him as the ideal place persons of Devaki and , who by for consecrating the idol, nature around divine grace were lucky enough to come in displayed all her magnificence, purity and possession of this image of matchless uncorrupt beauty. excellence and He seemed to invite installed it in a shrine Lord Vishnu to take at Dwaraka, and his permanent eventually Sri Krishna, abode and provide himself an fulfilment for her. All worshipped it. of a sudden, A legend has it that Brihaspathi felt his Lord Krishna on the body gently fanned eve of his departure by a caressing heavenward after breeze that carried completing his earthly with it a rare aroma, mission visualised the and he knew that it ultimate destruction was Vayu. The joy of his clan and his city of Guru and Vayu Dwaraka by a deluge knew no bounds that was to ensue. when they came to Then the Lord know that the place enjoined his dear is the sacred abode disciple Uddhava to of Mukkanna (Lord take charge of this Siva). So, with all sacred idol and ceremonial worship entrust it to sage the hoary idol was Brihaspathi, the consummated in all preceptor of Gods, so its effulgence and that the idol might be installed with the glory, and the holy abode where the idol help of Vayu - the wind god, in a fitting came to be installed and consecrated was place for the benefit of humanity. Uddhava thereafter known as Gurupavanoor or in implicit obedience of Lord’s wish took Guruvayur. the possession of the idol and later handing A mythological anectode enshrined in it over to Sage Brihaspathi informed him of Mahabharatha says that once King the wish of Lord Krishna. Janamejaya desired to wreak vengeance Brihaspathi taking charge of this image set on the serpent worlds, as his father died out on a pilgrimage in search of a sacred of serpent bite. In order to fulfill his desire,

93 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Janamejaya performed the “Sarpa Yajna”, arms and a lotus and a mace in the right in which a large number of serpents got and left lower arms is captivating beyond killed. As a result of the sin accrued by description. the killing of many serpents he fell a prey Facing east, the temple is surrounded by to a virulent type of leprosy. All attempts strong walls with two imposing Gopurams. of cure proved futile, and at last on the Attracting one’s attention is a big granite advice of sage , he performed slab (Belikall) dedicated to Vayu and Guru. a long penance standing before the deity Hear it is a golden flag-staff (Dwaja- of Guruvayur that cured him of the affliction stambha). In a richly and artistically of leprosy. decorated pandal near the eastern Gopuram, the pictures of famous devotees Record of Tradition and History are found, a fine painting of the late “Padmanabha” - a noble elephant of the Tradition says that one Pandyan ruler temple. constructed the temple for the deity. According to his horoscope the king was The Shrine destined to die of snake-bite. The pensive king went on a pilgrimage to spend the A spacious courtyard called the last days of his life in sacred places. He at “Koothampalam”, where “Koothu” a special last reached Guruvayur, where be lost type of dance peculiar to Kerala is held himself in the meditation of Guruvayurappa, during “Mandalam” and “Vaishaka” season, the presiding deity. After sometime he found is situated at the north-eastern corners that the day predicted for his snake-bite of the panda!. Nearby a tiny shrine had already passed. When he queried the dedicated to Shastha -the son of Hari and astrologer, the king found to his utter Hara. Outside the main outer-wall is a small amazement that he was stung by a cobra temple of Goddess Durga, who is known as but by the grace of Guruvayurappa the Edathidatu Kavil Bhagavathi. There is also snake-bite had not its fatal effect. Being a sub-shrine dedicated to Vinayaka. moved by the grace of Guruvayurappa, the king lost no time in erecting a shrine for Festivals Guruvayurappa. During the stormy days of the invasion of The mode of worship at Guruvayur was Malabar by Tippu, the idol of and still continues to be one laid down by Guruvayurappa was removed to Sri Sankaracharya, the greatest exponent Ambalapuzha Sri Krishna Kshetra, a well- and exemplar of . known sacred place dedicated to Sri Krishna Guruvayur Ekadasi which falls in the month in Travancore. After the hasty retreat of of Karthika is a very important day the iconoclast Tippu, the idol was brought connected with this temple, when tens of back to Guruvayur. The graceful smiling idol thousands visit this shrine to have a of Lord Guruvayurappa, holding a discus glimpse of the deity. It is also commonly and a conch in the right and left upper believed that Sri Krishna divulged the

94 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA secrets of the sacred Gita to Arjuna on Udupi Tradition, this auspicious day. During the Mandalam Antiquity, History festival, which starts from the first of Vrischika and last for 41 days, there will And Culture be a terrible rush of devotees to Guruvayur. DR. P. GURU RAJA BHAT, M.A. Ph.D. Kalashabishekam is a special feature on the concluding day of the mandalam. To have darshan of the Lord during the Vaishaka festival is considered highly radition BASED on the Sthalapurana auspicious. Luxuriant feastings, grand and on the Rajatapithapura- processions and lavish illuminations are Tmahatmyam (Udupi Kshetra special features of this festival lasting for Mahatmyam), the following summary may ten days. On this occasion there is also a be drawn, which happens to be the popular grand elephant race. The name of account of the sanctity and significance Narayana Bhattathri, the celebrated author of Udupi. of Narayaneeyam, a of soul-stirring The name, Udupi is derived from the two hymns in eulogy of Lord Krishna, is closely terms udu plus pa which mean the lord of associated with the temple. It is said that the star, the moon. The allusion is this: In Narayana Bhattathri was afflicted with great antiquity, the moon sat in meditation severe rhumatism, and in order to get rid of Lord Siva at Abjyaranya (The precincts of the ailment he worshipped Lord Krishna of Abjyaranya are still preserved in the at Guruvayur. Every day he composed one campus of the Poornaprajna College, dasak or ten slokas in praise of Lord’s glory. UDUPI) to get himself absolved of a curse In this way he composed more than 1000 that fell on him. Lord Siva was ultimately slokas in praise of the merciful Lord pleased with his devotion and appearing Guruvayurappa, which are collectively before him, blessed him. As this place known as “Narayaneeyam”. This distilled happens to be the sacred spot where Lord essence of the has been hailed Siva appeared in response to the devoted as one of the radiant gems in the diadem meditation of Udupa i.e., the moon, it of devotional poetry. It is the firm belief of subsequently came to be called Udupi. The the devotee that the chanting of temple of Chandramaulisvara (Chandres- Narayaneeyam with un-wavering devotion vara) is accordingly pointed to as the shrine before the presiding deity of Guruvayur can erected in dedication to Lord Siva, who is free one from otherwise incurable ailments. accepted to be in Svayambhu form in The sacred shrine at Guruvayur, where sacred memory of his glorious appearance. dwells the self-manifested four-armed Udupi is situated in Sivalli. In regard to the Vishnu, the supreme embodiment of name Sivalli, there is a traditional account, graciousness and godliness, and its blessed which may briefly be stated as follows. surroundings, echo but one hymn, “Glory Long ago this strip of land was ruled by a ever be to the most high Lord”. king known as Ramabhoja Raja. Being instructed by Sri Parasurama, the king

95 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA decided to perform sacrifice. one fell at Odabhandesvara, and there was Preliminary to the performance of this in it the idol of Balarama. sacrifice, he had to plough the area where A temple there was erected in honour of the sacrifice was to be performed. this deity. The second lump of clay had in Unfortunately, a serpent was killed in the it the famous Krishna idol and this idol was act of ploughing. In order to absolve himself installed at Udupi. In the course of being of the curse that fell on him, he caused to conveyed to Udupi, the Acharya happened be made a pedestal out of silver with the to halt at Adi-Udupi for some time, whence representation of four serpents, and he proceeded to Udupi (Adi-Udupi is just a worshipped Sri Parasurama who appeared mile and a half to the west of the Sri Krishna in the form of a linga on that pedestal. temple) ; and the third idol was of Hence, the place came to be known as Janardana which came to be installed at Siva-belli and later Sivalli. Yermal, 14 miles to the south of Udupi. Sri Anantesvara temple, accordingly, is This miracle is still part of the faith of shown as the shrine that is dedicated to devotees. It is universally believed that Lord Vishnu, who appeared in the form of the idol of Sri Krishna came from Dwaraka. linga. The king Ramabhoja also caused four A tradition that is still part of the unfailing Sakti temples and four Subrahmanya belief amongst the people is the turning of temples to be erected in the four corners the direction of Sri Krishna idol from east of Sivalli. The Sakti temples are - Puttur, to west on account of the devotion of Kannarpadi, Bailur and Kadiyali Kanakadasa, a Vaishnava saint of Durgaparamesvari temples. The . Kanaka kundi is referred to as Subrahmanya temples are located in the window through which Kanakadasa Tangodu, Mangodu, Aritodu and secured vision of the Lord. Muchilkodu, in the vicinity of Udupi. Now the traditional account in respect of Antiquity the famous Sri Krishna temple in Udupi may briefly be stated. Sri (the Neither the precise antiquity of the name exponent of Dvaita Siddhanta)-A. D. 1238- Udupi nor its derivation is clearly known to 1317—was seated in meditation near Malpe us on historical basis, inspite of its renown. on a particular occasion, when he came to There is a maze of controversy on this know of the distress to which a ship in the issue. sea was subject. Immediately, he waved It looks as though it is connected with his saffron cloth informing the Captain of Udupa, meaning serpent. It is most thought- the ship of the nearness of the shore and provoking that in no earlier record or its safety. The Captain after reaching the literature the name Udupi secures any shore paid his homage to the saint, and in mention. Instead, the names Sivalli and gratitude requested the saint to choose Rajatapithapura occur. Inscriptions from anything he wanted from the ship. The Udyavara (Udayapura according to Acharya’s choice was three huge lumps of historical records), a suburb of Udupi, clay. In the course of their transit to Udupi, assignable to the 9th century A. D. refer

96 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA to the Brahmapura (abode of Brahmins) of The Anantesvara Temple Sivalli, Sivavalli and to the Thousand of The most attractive historical survival at Sivalli. In a recently discovered copper- Udupi is the temple of Anantesvara, and in plate epigraph, assignable to circa 8th C. architectural style it may conveniently be A. D. (this is considered to be the earliest assigned to the 8th century A. D. if not to copper-plate in Karnataka) from an earlier date. Its beauty and elegance the Durgaparamesvari temple, Belmannu, have been spoiled because of settlements there is the mention of Sivalli. In the and business concerns all around the Sankara-vijaya (a work of the 9th-10th temple. It is possible that the name Sivalli centuries A.D.), Udupi is mentioned as Rajatapithapura. It is still a mystery how and why the name Udupi does not occur in early literatures, may be that this name is of late origin or that it was unimportant in early times. Topographically, in historical times, Udupi was a restricted enclave belonging is derived from Lord Siva, the presiding deity to the village of Sivalli, although today it of this temple, suggesting the unmistakable is the name given to the town of Udupi as influence of Saivism in Udupi as far back well as to the whole of the Taluk. as 8th century A. D. The central shrine There may not be much doubt that Sivalli (garbha-griha) is a massive one, and a was one of the earliest centres of Vedic remarkable and majestic linga is installed culture in the District of South Kanara. Since at the centre. The doorway of the garbha- Udayapura was a political centre of griha leads out to the mukhamantapa by considerable repute under the sovereignty a flight of steps. This mantapa has a ceiling of the Alupas, supposedly even from the raised over twelve pillars and is rectangular early centuries of the Christian Era, we in shape with four sets of corner stones. may surmise that its suburb, Udupi (Sivalli) The pillars are huge and are cubical, must have been a region of cultural octagonal and sixteen-fluted from the diffusion. bottom upwards. The capitals are quite ordinary. Around the and

97 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA leading out from the mukha-mantapa, there the people of Udupi that it must have been is a circumambulatory passage, which is a based long time ago and later converted absolutely dark. Outside this first to Siva temple. There is absolutely no truth circumambulation and the porch (mukha- in this view-point. On inscriptional basis, mantapa) is another passage. In between the deity of this temple is known as these two passages are well-worked Mahadeva, and it is yet a mystery how basement-cornices, upon which a finely the deity came to be called Anantesvara. dressed stone wall stands, relieved by This may have been of later origin. One pilasters, niches and perforated screens. thing seems certain, the name Sivalli may Good workmanship is shown by caves have been derived from Siva. The deity of above the superstructure of stone. The this temple and the structure of the temple roof of the aforesaid apartments and that bear ample claim to be assigned to the 8th of the second porch are covered with five century A. D. in chronology. courses of overlapping horizontal, slanting stone slabs, encircling the apsidal form of The Temple of Chandramaulisvara the structure. This is viewed as a marvel by archaeologists. Coming out of the first This shrine is erected in front of the porch is another in front. The platform of Anantesvara shrine, and may be ascribable the entire structure is covered by stone to the 10th century A. D. There is no good masonry, which is a later addition. reason to believe, as is surmised, that this To the south-west of the - shrine too was a basadi later converted pradakshina-patha is a sub shrine which into a Siva temple. It is clear from the accommodates an early sculpture of Sasta. elevation of the temple that the location In front of the temple, there is a huge was a lake formerly. The two bronze images pedestal, known as pradhana balipitha. The of Siva, used as balidevatas, one in the sculptural style and details of this pedestal Anantesvara and the other in the suggest to us that it too may belong to Chandramaulisvara temple are fine the 8th-9th centuries A. D. The stone pillar specimens of Chalukyan and Chola bronzes. of considerable height standing in front of it bearing the reliefs of Aditya, Culture: The Krishna Cult Nandikesvara, a hamsa and a bhakta, seems to belong to a much later date (Circa It is very well known that Udupi is a centre 14th A.D.). of Vedic culture and it established The temple is copper-clad, as is commonly Vaishnavism at an early date. Although it found in major temples all over the District. is difficult to say when precisely The architectural style of the temple Vaishnavism started here, it may well be speaks of its antiquity going back at least said that during Sri Sankara’s time (8th- to the 8th-9th centuries A.D. The temple 9th centuries A.D.), a branch of of Anantesvara is indeed a magnificent Vaishnavism i.e., the Krishna cult was structure that merits recognition in propagated here. The work of Sri Karnataka. There is a wrong notion among Sankaravijaya bears clear testimony to this

98 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA fact. We may recall to our memory, in this assignable to the 9th century A. D. Carved connection, that Sri Hastamalaka, a direct out of a kind of black marble this full figure disciple of Sri Sankara, seemed to have of Mahishamardini, without prabhavali, is installed an image of Lord Krishna at a very vigorous one and dignified in Rajatapithapura. This image is still found demeanour. Mahisha’s helplessness is in the Sri Krishna shrine, and this sculpture clearly shown in his being pierced by the may be taken as one of the earliest stone trident, whose prongs are held upwards. images of Krishna in Southern India. Udupi has had unmistakable claims to Unfortunately, this fact is hardly known by recognition as a great cultural centre for people, nor is any attempt made to help the past 1300 years and more. people understand it The image of Lord Krishna, which is being worshipped by the Pajaka Kshetra - a Great Spiritual eight Dvaita Svamijis of Udupi, is Centre also a very early sculpture at least of the 7th-8th C. A. D. The story is that this The history of Udupi is integrally connected image came from Dwaraka and was installed with a small but great centre of spiritual by the great Madhva philosopher, Sri Ananda importance, known as Pajaka-Kshetra. This Tirtha (1238-1317 A. D.). The sculptural little known locality is part of the Kunjaru features of this image of Lord Krishna grama of the Udupi Taluk and is locally conform to those of the north (danda in known as Pajeyi in the . the right hand and Karpura hikka sutra in Kunjaru, located at a distance of 7 miles the left) and therefore, it can fairly be to the north-east of Udupi, has been accepted as having been brought from renowned for the worship of Durga-devi in Dwaraka. the Mahishasuramardini form and is Sri Madhvacharya’s Dvaita Siddhanta may accepted as one of the earliest centres of be reckoned as one of the most significant Sakti worship in the District of South contributions to philosophy. Lord Krishna’s Kanara. worship in Sri Krishna shrine is being under- The temple of Durga-devi is situated on taken in a unique manner, by the eight the top of a hill (referred to in the Svamijis of the eight , perhaps the Sumadhva-vijya as Vimana-giri) about 450 like of which can scarcely have a parallel feet above sea-level and commands a elsewhere. (Sode and Sirur, Adamar and captivating view of the surrounding regions Palimar, Krishnapura and Kaniyur, and to a distance of 5-8 miles. The hill top is Pejavar and Puttige are the eight mathas). accessible through four routes in four Each Swamiji worships Lord Krishna for a directions. The temple structure, as seen period of two years, and this is known as today, is modern being the result of puja pariyayam. renovation. This temple used to be visited Another sculpture that helps the by the great Acharya Sri Anandatirtha. The determination of antiquity is that of Parasurama temple is situated in front of Mahishamardini of Kadiyali. This is a very the Durga shrine on a rock of middle size. neat and fascinating sculptural piece

99 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Just half-a-mile from the Devi temple is Sri Madhvacharya the historic Pajaka-Kshetra. It was the birth-place of Sri Madhvacharya, the In a separate shrine is installed the stone exponent of the Dvaita school of philosophy. image of Sri Acharya which is about one He was an illustrious Vaishnava Siddantha foot in height and is carved out of black Partishthapanacharya of the 13th C. A. D. marble. This image is supposed to have It is disappointing to find that such a great been brought by Sri Sode Vadiraja Swami place of spiritual inspiration should be left from Bhadri in North India. This may be neglected without any attention to the regarded as the real and the best proper preservation of the antique representation of the Acharya in sculpture. monument here. Indeed, Pajaka- Kshetra The icon is two-handed, the right one being has claims for as much greatness as Udupi in the instruction pose and the left holding itself. The architectural significance of the a book. is placed on the left matha here is not worthy of any special side. On the prabhavali to the right there mention. But the icons that are preserved is shown the relief of danda appearing like and worshipped in this place are a perennial an axe. source of spiritual experience. Temples in the Vicinity of Udupi, Bearing The deity-Sri Vasudeva Cultural Influence

An icon of its sculptural feature is rarely The Durga temple of Putturu is situated at found elsewhere in the District. It is 25 a distance of a mile and a half to the north cm. in height and is cast in bronze. It is of the Sri Krishna temple and is dedicated supposed to have been worshipped by the to the Mahishamardini form of Durga. But father of the great Acharya, Sri the most interesting aspect of this place Madhyageha Bhatta (Naduvantillaya). On of worship is that Durga is worshipped in the three coils of a five-hooded serpent, the linga form. It is six feet in circumference the Lord is seated with the right leg hanging and is an irregular stone. The balidevata down and the left leg folded and made to bronze suggests that the divinity is to be rest upon the serpent. In the back right treated as Mahishamardini. The Bailuru and left hands chakra and sankha are held Mahishasuramardini temple, although and in the front right and left hands there renovated, may be assigned to the 12th are the gada and the padma. These A. D. The stone image is about 3 feet in accessories are held in the prayoga form. height and is a relief figure with interesting The iconographic features of this image iconographic features. Kannarpadi, a suburb are undoubtedly ancient and the image may of Udupi to the south, is known for the be traced to the period between the 10th Jaya-Durga form of Durga-devi and the and the 11 th centuries A. D. Perhaps, Sri mulasthana Sculpture is ascribable to circa Madhvacharya was named Vasudeva, 11 th C.A.D. because his father was a great and devout Recently, Ambalapadi situated 20 miles to worshipper of Vasudeva. the West of Udupi, has established its fame

100 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA for Sakti worship. The religious history of temple at Kadavuru as they were sanctified this place goes back to circa 10th A. D. In by Sri Acharya’s visit during his childhood the Janardana temple here, South Kanara days. UDUPI is thus a synonym for ancient District has one of the best maintained Brahminical culture and celebrated Krishna places of worship. The subsidiary deity is Cult. Kali or Jaya-durga. The image is made of wood and is of life-size. It is ascribable to A few Facts for Ready Reference circa 14-15th C.A.D. Ambalapadi was the seat of a medieval chieftaincy called UDUPI may have claims to be the earliest Nidambura bidu. centre of Sri Krishna Cult in South India. Tradition links inseparably Odabhandesvara The Anantesvara temple, Udupi, is one of with Udupi, in religious worship. The the major monuments of Karnataka. popularly known Balarama temple at The Chandresvara temple is the first to Odabhandesvara is none other than the have its annual celebration (Utsavam) in temple dedicated to Skanda. The present the District (Kartika bahula amavasyai. mulasthana icon (circa 14th C.A.D.) is three The change in the turn of Sri Krishna feet in height and two-handed, with padma worship every two years amongst the in the right hand and the left being at Madhva pontiffs is known as pariyayam. katisthana. The earlier icon was mutilated The makara sankramana day witnesses the and deposited in the bank. The balidevata drawing of the three Chariots, which is a icon is a peculiar figure. The temple is religious function of great importance. situated on the beach and a visit to this It is common practice to visit the three place ;s refreshing and spiritualizing. temples - the Anantesvara, the Mention has to be made of a small shrine Chandresvara and the Krishna temples at Kakkunje, Sivalli, which is dedicated to whenever one happens to be at Udupi. Lord Janardana. The garbha-griha is From the religious point of view, it is also renovated while the prakara is in ruins. desirable to visit Odabhandesvara and The Janardana icon in this shrine is 22ft. Kunjaru in order to complete the pilgrimage high, stylistically and iconographically it to Udupi. Madhva sarovaram (tank) is may be accepted as the earliest icon of considered to have borne four names, the kind in Karnataka. It is ascribable to namely, Ananda Tirtha, Tirtha, circa 6th C. A. D. and symbolizes the early Chandrapushkarani and Maha Tirtha. Vedic culture at Sivalli. The practice of arranging timber (fuel) in Another place of spiritual importance and the form of an enchanting Chariot is unique natural beauty is Indrali, a mile and a half at Sri Krishna Matha. This is for use during to the East of Udupi proper. Durga-devi is the paryayam. worshipped here in the form of linga, and she presents the Lakshmi form of Durga. Pilgrims and devotees will profit considerably by visiting the Siva temple at Bennanje and the Sankara-narayana

101 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Srirangapatna performed penance to please Ranganatha. Being propitiated, Ranganatha gave darsan B. RADHAKRISHNA RAO to her, and at her request stayed at Srirangapatna. Subsequently, Kaveri stood transformed as a stone image at His foot. Situation

Blend of History and Tradition ITUATED at the western end of an island formed by the two branches All the shrines and temples in Srirangapatna of Kaveri, Srirangapatna is one of S are located inside a magnificent but the famous Vaishnavaite sacred places of dilapidated fort built in 1454 by Timmana, Karnataka. On the Mysore- road, a chieftain of Nagamangala. This fort was it is 78 miles from Bangalore. It is also the considered to be the most formidable and headquarters of the taluk of the same second strongest in India. Washed on two name. sides by gentle Kaveri, it has several gates, the principal gate being the elephant gate Sanctity on the southern side. The celebrated Vaishnavite saint Ramanuja came to Mysore The islands of Srirangapatna, Sivasamudra seeking the shelter and patronage of King and Srirangam are three holy places from the persecution of the popularly known as ‘Adiranga’, ‘Madhya Chola emperor Karikalan in the year 1099 Ranga’ and ‘Anta Ranga’, also called and made Srirangapatna as his abode for “Paschima Ranga”, being in the west in many years. relation to Sivasamudra and Srirangam. This little island measuring 3 miles in length from Genius of Dravidian Style east to west was the capital of the rulers of Mysore. During the reign of Chikka The imposing Ranganatha temple at Devaraja it acquired great eminence. Srirangapatna epitomises the genius of Legend claims for Srirangapatna a hoary Dravidian style. It seems to have been past taking its antiquity back to the days constructed in three phases. One of the of the revered sage, Gautama. It is said biggest of its kind in Karnataka, historical that Gautama who had his to the evidences fix the antiquity of this temple northwest of the island worshipped here at about 1200 A.D. The several granite Lord Ranganatha. This locality is now pillars, the sanctum, the sakanasi etc. bear famous as “Gautama Kshetra” where the the mark of Hoysala style, while the river divided into two. Navaranga pillars epitomise the glory of Vijayanagar style. The materials used for The Penance of Kaveri the construction of pillared courtyard were of Hoysala period. The beautiful towers at In “Kaveri Mahatmyam” there is an Mahadwara and Garbagriha are anecdote, which says that here Kaveri constructed in style.

102 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Some of the images of Hindu pantheon Although a powerful seat of Vaishnavism enshrined in the temple show a meticulous there is no dearth of Shiva temples in and superb workmanship, and they belong Srirangapatna. Among the Shiva shrines of both to Hoysala and Vijayanagara periods. Srirangapatna, the massive The presiding deity or Moola Vigraha depicts Gangadareshwara temple is most Lord Vishnu reclining on the five hooded prominent. Built in Vijayanagar style It Adishesha. Unlike as in Srirangam, there is dates back to the 16th century. The neither a lotus springing from the navel of Utsava Vigraha is the copper-made the deity nor are found the images of handsome looking image of Dakshinamurthi. Sridevi and Bhudevi. But the figures of In the Navaranga, to the right of the inner Kaveri holding a lotus in her hand and that entrance are enshrined the figures of of sage Gautama are seen installed by the Vinayaka, Subrahmanya, Sapthika side of Ranganatha. Narayana and Chandreshwara. Here one can notice two figures of Festivals Subrahmanya, the big one seated on The two pillars found in front of the temple peacock and the smaller standing on the are called “Chaturvimshati” on account of coils of a serpent, sheltered by its ten their containing figures representing 24 hoods. The temples of Kalamma and aspects of Lord Vishnu. In the second Ankalamma at Srirangapatna are being Prakara are enshrined the figures of Alvars administered by goldsmiths. In Kalamma and also a splendid representation of Vishnu temple the presiding deity is a big Shivalinga Chakra (discus). The Car festival falling in called Kalammeshwara flanked by the the month of Magha attracts thousands images of Kali and Lakhmi-narayana to the of Hindus from various parts of the state. left and right. There are also subshrines On the occasion of Vaikunta Ekadasi pious dedicated to Ramanuja, Nammalwar and Hindus throng the place to take a bath in . In the sanctum of Ankalamma the river and worship at the shrines. temple is seen a ferocious looking image of Bhairava accompanied by Kali and Other Shrines Ganapathi. The Jain Basadi dedicated to the first Tirthanakara Adinatha, in which Besides the Ranganatha temple there are are enshrined figures of all the 24 numerous other shrines dedicated to Tirthasankaras, stands as a mute witness Vishnu, among which the Lakshmi to the brief but glorious Jain spell of Narasimha shrine is worth mentioning. This Karnataka. temple was built by King Kantirava Narasa Raja Wadeyar. The image of Lakshmi Narasimha, an attractive piece of exquisite beauty, is of Hoysala period. There is also a fine idol of” Ambegalu Krishna” - crawling on his knees and hands.

103 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Gomateshwara of popular in North India, entered Karnataka in the 7th century during the reign of Dharmasthala Rashtrakutas and reached its zenith of power during the Ganga spell of Karnataka. B. RADHAKRISHNA RAO The contribution of Jains to the growth of and evolution of sculpture in the state was immense. The Religious Zeal and Devotion in first acknowledged father of Kannada Sculpture poetry was a Jain, Adikavi Pampa, who flourished during the reign of Chalukya HE State of Karnataka abounding as emperor Arikesari. A bible of Kannada it is in marvellous monolithic speaking Jains, Adipurana, was composed Tmonuments, that recall the by Pampa, and it centres round the life achievements of an age past, is the and achievements of Gomateshwara who veritable abode of sculptural excellence is also popular as . Rich in poetic and religious fervour. These monuments imagery and literary charm, this magnum epitomise the religious zeal and devotional opus of Pampa describes in vivid language piety that marked the works of the the acts of sacrifice of Gomateshwara. sculptors of mediaeval Karnataka. Of the immense monolithic statues of India What it Symbolises the majority and the biggest ones are found in Karnataka, and among them the The person whom the statues of great monuments of Gomateshwara - a Jain Gomateshwara symbolises was, according apostle - are most outstanding. Otherwise to tradition, the younger of the two known as Bahubali, the titanic image of brothers, who fought a duel over the Gomateshwara in nude stands as the question of succession to their father’s embodiment of “naked truth” and Kingdom, won the fight, but generously unadorned beauty. The monoliths of made over the Kingship to his defeated Gomateshwara are an eloquent testimony brother. It is such a man of strength and to the splendid Jain spell in Karnataka. saintliness that the sculptor has endeavoured to depict in the statue of The Sixth Statue of Gomateshwara Gomateshwara that stands nude. Sravanabelgola, a living centre of Jain There have already been five great statues culture and religion, contains the biggest of Gomateshwara in Karnataka, which takes of the Gomateshwara images. Wedged in us back by a thousand years to the age between the two hills of Chandragiri and of Ganga Kings, under whose benevolent Indragiri, which rise abruptly from an patronage Jainism flourished all over the otherwise flat plain, the situation of region. With the addition of Dharmasthala Sravanabelgola is both prominent and Gomateshwara the number of monoliths picturesque. Standing majestically atop the have risen to six. Jainism, which was hill Indragiri, the gigantic statue of

104 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Gomateshwara can be seen from a distance fields and areca and coconut gardens, the of 25 Kms carved out of a single stone, sacred Dharmasthala attracts a flood of this 17-metre-high gentle colossus, is by pilgrims almost all round the year. and far the grandest of medieval Indian art. It was built in 983 A. D. under the Jaina Patronage to Siva Temple orders of Chamundaraya, the Chief Minister of the renowned Ganga King Rachamalla. A sacred Shaivite shrine at Dharmasthala is under the aegis of an aristocratic Jain The Periodical Abhisheka family called “Heggadaes”, and on that account Dharmasthala is held in veneration A spectacular festival connected with this by Jains, too. The former trustee of the image of Gomateshwara, which occurs once temple, Sri Ratnavarma Heggadae, in 12 years, when the heavenly planets prompted by divine intuition, conceived the reach a particular conjunction, is idea of installing a statue of Gomateshwara “Mahamasthabhisheka”, the head at Dharmasthala. ceremony. A wooden scaffolding running The present view and appearance of the full height of the 17-metre-high Dharmasthala, which we see today with monolithic statue of Gomateshwara is built all its splendour and grandeur, is entirely at the back. To the chanting of the sacred of his master plan and achievement. He texts, priests climb up the scaffolding and has rightly been called the “architect of pour thousands of pots of water, milk, modern Dharmasthala”. But as the fate honey, ghee, saffron, silver and gold coins. would have it, he did not live long to see The cascade of spectral colours flows down the completion of the work of carving out on the serene compassionate face and the monolith of Gomateshwara, which was body, bathing it in an aura of heavenly initiated during his reign at Dharmasthala. splendour. Thousands of pilgrims from all While performing “Kalashabhisheka” to the over India gather at Sravanabelgola on that Gomateshwara of in the year 1963, occasion to offer their prayers and worship. Heggadae had divine inspiration to install one such image of Jain saint at South Canara - A Grand Meeting-place Dharmasthala. of Hindu and Jain Religions But owing to the reasons beyond his control, he was not able to carry out the The South Canara district of Karnataka, will immediately. After consulting suitable the emerald landscape of which is dotted persons, he assigned the task of carving with towering Hindu temples and solemn out the statue of Gomateshwara to Ranjala Jain shrines, is one of the very few existing Gopala Shenoy, a sculptor endowed with pockets of Jaina influence in the state. A clarity of vision and incisiveness of principal pilgrim centre of the district, Sri imagination. Dharmasthala, is renowned throughout India for its ancient temple of Manjunatha. Surrounded by a picturesque fringe of hills,

105 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Marvel of the Twentieth Century people visited the statue, while it was being carved out. The saga of carving out the titanic statue of Gomateshwara out of a monolithic block The Marathon Journey of stone, and its transportation to a place at a distance of 40 miles was as much The Herculean task of transporting this fascinating as the shifting of during massive statue from Dharmsthala to Karkala the construction of the Aswan Dam in posed a serious challenge to the Egypt. Ranjala Gopala Shenoy, who has engineering and technological skill of imbibed the sculptural spirit of medieval twentieth century. A specially built trolley Karnataka, was the moving spirit behind was brought all the way from Bombay for this unique venture. A recipient of Padma the purpose of transportation. Consisting Vibhushan, Ranjala Gopala Shenoy though of 64 wheels, this trolley was also aided past 70, worked with a vigour and verve by bulldozers and cranes in its task. Before of the youth of 17. The work of carving transporting the monolith of out Gomateshwara had to be carried out Gomateshwara, a huge pillar weighing more at Karkala, situated 40 miles to the south than 40 tons was carried by this trolley as of Dharmsthala in the whole of S.Canara an experimental rehearsal. The journey of the appropriate Sila for carving out such a Gomateshwara started in the last week of stupendous statue is found only at Karkala. February, and it took more than 20 days Before carving out this gigantic monolith, to cover a distance of 80 Kms. Shenoy prepared out of a small stone an On the way to the trolley’s journey from exact miniature replica of it. Nearly 100 Karkala to Dharmasthala, four bridges had sculptors worked with immense patience to be constructed and at a number of under the meticulous supervision of Shenoy places roads had either to be built or to carve the statue of Gomateshwara out widened. Accompanied by pompous of the 90 ft. long granite stone. religious ceremonies and regal splendour, It took nearly six years to complete the the trolley carrying Gomateshwara made a work of carving out Gomateshwara; the move on Feb. 28th. Rousing reception to work was started in 1967 and got Gomateshwara was accorded at various completed in the beginning of 1973. The places enroute the trolley’s journey. Lakhs total expenditure incurred for the work was of people witnessed this unique event in more than Rs. One lakh. The height of the the . By the time the statue from top to toe is 39 ft. Its total trolley reached , a distance of 25 miles weight is 170 tons. Below the foot is a from Karkala, 60 of its wheels were lotus seat with a height of 10 ft. The chest depleted. Overcoming all the obstacles the of Gomateshwara measures 14' and the trolley reached Dharmasthala on the 19th face 6'. The body of the statue is exquisite, of March 1973. embellished with floral designs and figures The Gomateshwara statue now lies at the of elephants and horses. At least five-lakh “Bahubali Vihar” atop the hill near the gateway of Dharmasthala. The installation

106 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA and “Mahamasthabhisheka” will take place serpentine course. The location of the where the Jains all over the country will temple against the backdrop of areca and be celebrating the anniversary of [1974] coconut gardens is extremely captivating. Mahavira. The marathon journey of this That in Dharmasthala many complicated monolith from Karkala to Dharmasthala will civil disputes between the people are go down as a momentous event not only amicably settled in the presence of the in the history of Karnataka but also in the Heggadae is in itself a sterling tribute to history of India. the faith reposed by the people in Heggade. In fact, Heggadae is considered as an “alter ego of Manjunatha” - the presiding deity of Dharmasthala. At Dharmasthala literates and illiterates, rich and poor, are accorded Sri Dharmasthala equal welcome with no scope for differentiation or discrimination. Kshetra How did Manjunatha come to be installed B. RADHAKRISHNA RAO at Dharmasthala and how did the Jains become the hereditary trustees of the temple? There is an interesting local legend Situation and Tradition told in this connection.

AMOUS as the Benaras of the South, Jain-Hindu Harmony Sri Dharmasthala Kshetra, located 40 Fmiles to the north of , Some five centuries ago, there lived a Jain epitomises the true spirit of the cultural family of Birmanna Pergadae in the residence and spiritual co-existence, for which called “Nelyadi veedu”. Birmanna Pergadae Parasurama Kshetra has been so well-known was a chieftain and was very philanthropic. from very ancient times. The reputed Near “Nelyadi veedu” there stood a Basadi Saivite shrine of Lord Manjunatha which is founded and worshipped by ‘Nelyadi veedu‘ here under the trusteeship of a Jain family (“Basadi” is a place of Jain worship). called ‘Heggadaes’, has as its priests Sri One day the guardian angels of Dharma Vaishnavas belonging to the Madhva took human forms and came to “Nelyadi lineage. Dharmasthala is also being held in Veedu” with a pompous procession of veneration by Christians and Muslims. who horses and elephants. Birmanna Pergadae come here in large numbers for amelioration extended warm welcome to these strange of their ailments. visitors. The angels were so much moved Surrounded by a fringe of enchanting hills by the welcome they had at “Nelyadi abounding in gorgeous greenery, at Veedu”, that they asked Pergadae to Dharmasthala nature seems to have dedicate “Nelyadi Veedu” to them. Further, exhausted all her talents for landscaping. blessing Pergadae and assuring him of At a distance of one mile from Dharmasthala unbounded wealth, the angels departed. the sacred river Netravathi winds her It was only then that Pergadae realised

107 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA that they were not mortals but divine were also propitiated along with visitors. As instructed, he offered the Dharmadaivas. While Birmanna Pergadae “Nelyadi Veedu” to Dharma Daivas and was lost in agony, the Dharmadaivas began to propitiate the deities. directed their vassal Annappa to bring the Linga of Manjunatha from Kadri near Birmanna’s Dream Mangalore. Accordingly Annappa hurried to Kadri and brought the Linga which was After sometime the divinities appeared to installed in the spot opposite to the shrine Birmanna Pergadae in dream and said thus: of Dharmadaivas. Pergadae built a temple “We are powerful Daivas, we are Kalrahu, for Manjunatha, where the Linga was Kumaraswamy, Kalaki and Kanyakumari. You consecrated by Annappa. must build separate shrines for us at places pointed out by us. You must hold festivals Abode of Bounteous Charity at appointed times. You must choose for us two mediums of noble birth so that we The place came to be called Dharmasthala may speak our will through them. Our on account of the abundant charities of commands will be carried out by our vasal the Heggadaes. Even today, at Annappa. You must appoint four worthy Dharmasthala bounty knows no bounds. It persons, to help you and see that the is said that the nomenclature rituals are strictly observed. We shall “Dharmasthala” was given by Sri Vadiraja reward you and your posterity with health, of Sode Mutt in Udupi, who visited wealth and longevity so long as you worship Dharmasthala during the trusteeship of us with faith and devotion. We shall spread Devaraja Heggadae. The Heggadae your glory far and wide and get you extended a red carpet welcome to the abundance of offerings. Therefore, see that learned Swamiji and begged him to accept charity is extended to all equally at all times. the “Bhiksha”. But Swamiji declined the offer We shall back your wishes with support, of Bhiksha on the plea that “Bhiksha” your word with fulfilment, and crown all cannot be accepted at a place where the your efforts with success. Should you act Linga has been installed by a Daiva. against this behest, you shall suffer. Don’t be afraid, we will protect you, be peaceful.“ Rededication

Birth of the Shrine Thereupon Heggadae requested Swamiji to reconsecrate the Linga, to which the As per the fiat of the divine beings who Swamiji readily agreed. With the ample appeared in their effulgent glory, Birmanna assistance of Heggadae, Vadiraja performed Pergadae lost no time in constructing a the consecration of the Linga. Further, shrine for Dharmadaivas. He held Utsava being pleased with the charities of the (festival) and Nadavali as instructed. He place, Swamiji named the place, invited Brahmins for festive offerings. But “Dharmasthala”. Brahmins refused to turn up, unless Gods

108 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA

Services of Kumarayya Heggade

Kumarayya Heggadae, who ascended the of Dharmasthala in the year 1190 was a man of great renown. During his reign Dharmasthala witnessed remarkable and violent political fluctuations. Kumarayya Heggadae with the assistance of the British captured the huge stone fortress at , ten miles off Dharmasthala from the hands of that iconoclastic ruler Tippu, and thus saved the thousands of Hindus from being converted into Islam at gun point.

Chandayya Heggade

During the reign of Chandayya Heggadae who ascended the gaddi in 1830, Dharmasthala underwent innumerable changes. He built the inner portion of the temple, increased the Modern Amenities charity and philanthropy, and extended the fame of the place. All the Heggadaes who Sri Ratnavarma Heggadae, who became the succeeded Chandayya Heggadae strove trustee of the temple in the year 1955, incessantly and tirelessly to improve the made this Kshetra a beautiful place with temple and extend the fame of the place. all the modern amenities. The colossal monolithic Gomateswara, now lying at the “Bahubali Vihar” atop the hill in

109 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Dharmasthala, is his idea, though he did Deepotsava” lasting for five days, is held not live long enough to see his dream with great verve and colour. Every year on realised. During his period he conducted the day of “Mesha Sankramana” a great 13 annual sessions of Sarva Dharma (fair) accompanied by Dwajarohana Sammelana on a lavish scale, of which the and pooja for Dharmadaivas, and silver jubilee celebrations in the year 1957 Rathotsava (car festival) of Manjunatha- was a unique one, when the Governors of swami are held. Sivarathri is also celebrated three states participated in the three day here with splendid fervour. function. The present trustee is the The most unique festival of Dharmasthala youthful Virendra Heggadae, who is very is what is called “Mahanadavali”. What does pious, noble and simple. Though he is in Nadavali mean? It is a conventional way his early twenties, he possesses the of propagating Dharma observed down the discrimination, wisdom and forbearance of centuries. During Nadavali, Gods and his elders. celestial divinities are propitiated with elaborate rituals. The last Nadavali was Spirit of Charity Continuing celebrated in 1952, after a lapse of 42 years. Thousands of devotees who flock to Dharmasthala everyday are provided with free food and free shelter for a period of three days - a splendid testimony to the spirit of charity exhibited by the Heggadaes. It is believed that if one prays at Dharmasthala with devotion and faith, one can have any wish fulfilled. It is a matter of common experience to see people possessed by evil spirits, victims of wickedness, or dire misfortune come to the Kshetra with piety and devotion, and go back with relief. In the morning “Paramanna Pooja” “ Abhisheka”, “Vedaparayana’, etc. are held in the shrine of Manjunathaswami. In the afternoon hundreds of people witness the “Mahapuja of Manjunathaswami”. To go inside the inner enclosure, one must have taken a bath and be bare-bodied above the waist. A number of colourful festivals are celebrated here almost all round the year. In the month of Kartika “Kartika Laksha

110 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Pilgrimage Around scenes of bitter strife, remembered still through many a tale and song. Mysore Compiled Mysore is as much a land of rivers as it is a Feature land of mountains and hills. Its great river- system consists chiefly of the Kaveri in the south, the Tungabhadra in the north, and the two Pennars and Palars on the The Land and the People east, which, together with other minor streams, account for a total length of more CCUPYING a central position in the than 1,600 miles, irrigating millions of acres. south of the , the Most of these rivers find their way to the OState of Mysore, as it was of old, Bay of Bengal. would reveal a peculiar character of its The western and south-western parts of own which marks it out from the surrounding Mysore are covered by dense forests which region of Madras and Bombay in more in a great measure retain their primeval respects than one. character. Perhaps, the most alluring The mountain ranges of the west, clothed aspect of the forests of Mysore is its in dense forests, have added a waterfalls, acknowledged as some of the distinctiveness to this part of the State, loveliest in the world. While their which contrasts strongly with the life and contribution to the enrichment of scenic scenery that obtain on the plains and river beauty is indisputable, their value as an valleys. There is, therefore, a delicately important source of the economic varying picturesqueness in the scenic prosperity of the region is inestimable. aspect of the region which the traveller The life and activities of such great men can hardly fail to notice as he moves along of Indian history as Chandra Gupta Maurya from one end to the other. (contemporary of Alexander the Great) Generally speaking, Mysore State is a series who, having become a Jain, renounced his of uplands with an average height of over worldly empire and retired to the solitude two thousand feet above sea level. In of the Sravana Bela Gola hills; his grandson, summer, it enjoys a languorous warmth and Asoka the Great, whose stone-edicts in a bracing chillness in winter. Dotted here the Chitradurg District still echo his appeal and there by hills which rise to moderate made over twenty-two centuries ago for heights, the plains are generally relieved tolerance and good-will among man-kind; of their prosaic evenness, and made to Sankaracharya, the saint-prodigy of the acquire thereby a much needed variation 8th century who taught that “” in the general pattern of colour and was the only ultimate reality and that self- vegetation. But the contribution of at least realisation was the only means of salvation; some of these hills to the history of the Ramanujacharya, the great social reformer land has been none the less significant. In and philosopher of the who days gone by, people built fortresses on sought refuge in Mysore from the their tops and thereby converted them into persecution of the Chola King; who

111 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA came a century later denouncing caste and hill in the 9th century. Chola inscriptions preaching the unity of God and the of the 11th century found in the temple of brotherhood of man; Madhva who preached Bhoganandiswara testify to this effect. The the duality of God and Soul - these and Veerabhadra temple situated outside the countless other men of lesser eminence fort to the north of the hill appears to have all left their imprint upon the character have been built before the 14th century. of the people. The traveller will also find In the Yoganandiswara temple daily worship that the people of this region, whether of of the Lord takes place. During the and cities or of the villages, are Mahasivaratri, there is the car festival of warm-hearted and hospitable. Where Bhoganandiswara. Those who visit the fair religion and customs are concerned, they almost invariably take the Darshan of are conservative. Yoganandiswara at the top, too. The image of Nandi in this temple is very The Nandi Hills beautiful. Lord Shiva is in a state of deep meditation and Nandi (the Bull-mount of With Bangalore as his base, the pilgrim has Siva) is keeping watch over him lest he a good many places of interest round about, should be disturbed, and on the face of which he should visit. Thirty seven miles Nandi is sculptured a beautiful expression from Bangalore are the Nandi Hills, a small of vigilance, humility and loyalty. Besides but well-known summer-resort. A motor these, there are temples dedicated to ride to this place is in itself very enjoyable. Anjaneya and Veerabhadra. It is situated at a moderate height of 4,850 On the hill, to the west, is a lake called feet above sea level, marking the Amrita Sarovara (The Lake of nectar) and termination of a hill range of which it is the it is a beautiful construction with steps highest point. The fairly extensive plateau provided to it from all the four directions. of late developed into an ideal summer- The water of the lake is crystal-clear, resort. Nandi is celebrated in legend and sweet and wholesome. history. Nandigiri is the pride of Mysore because it Originally, it was known as when is the result of a joint handiwork of Nature it was under the rule of the Gangas. It and Man. Nature has endowed the place was then a centre of Jain pilgrimage. A with exquisite beauty, and Man has shown Jain inscription upon the hill and a tank in his zeal co-operating with Nature. ruins (called Sravana Tirtha) at the foot of the hill towards the South are the only The Chamundi Hills remnants of the glory of those days. This Nandagiri became Nandigiri during 11th The Chamundi Hills have been developed century, when it came under the control into one of the beauty spots adjoining the of the Cholas. The Yoganandiswara temple city with an elegant park on its top, and atop the hill is said to have been its broad, winding drive running to a length constructed in the 11th century and the of about six miles to the temple. The temple Bhoganandiswara temple at the foot of the of Chamundi is an imposing structure and

112 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA its neighbourhood is very attractive. The of the people of Karnatak and the kings of huge reclining bull, carved out of an Mysore. Karnatak has been, from times enormous monolith, lies half-way up the immemorial, an ardent worshipper of hill and is worth a visit. From the top of strength. Standing in evidence are the the Hill, a view of the city in the night is temples of Shakti spattered over the length an enchanting spectacle. and breadth of the state. Some important After the Goddess killed Mahishasura, She centres of Shakti worship in the state are settled on the Chamundi Hill and became Sannati in (Chandala the presiding deity of the land surrounding Parameswari), Savadatti (Ellamma), the hill. Inscriptions available indicate that (Baba-shankari), Sirsi in North Karnataka even at the time of Asoka, Karnataka was (Marikamba), Mangalore (Mangalamba), known by the name ‘Mahisha Mandala’.The Kolluru (Mukambika), Mysore influence of Chamundeswari on Jainism is (Chamundeswari) and Kolar (Kolamma). The manifested in the form of Vasantika Devi Utsav at Mysore, the festivities of the Jains. Her representation resembles in connection with Sri Chamundeswari and that of Sri Chamundeswari. The Chamundi parades of the armed forces are the Hill is 3489 feet above the sea level. In specialities of Karnataka. addition to the temple of Chamundeswari The worship of Chamundeswari connotes at its top, it has also the Mahabaleswara the worship of the Mother in the form of temple built by Hoysala Vishnuvardhana. Shakti. The birthday of Sri Chamundeswari The renovation of the temple was is to be celebrated on Krishna undertaken in 1827 by Sri Mummudi Shashti. Devotees in thousands gather on Krishnaraja Wodeyar, the then king of the hill-top to offer their grateful homage Mysore. He also got constructed the tall and worship to the Goddess who manifested ‘gopuram’ on the temple. He also donated in Herself the strength of all the Gods and to the temple ‘the golden lion’ for the Goddesses and rid the world of a demon procession of the Goddess. A necklace tyrant. They look at the awe-inspiring made of 30 gold stars adorning the idol Mother and feel gratified. Thrilled by the testifies to his devotion and munificence. flow of Divine strength that the mere sight The gigantic stone bull (Nandi) on the hill of the Great Omnipotent Mother sets up in is a wonderful piece of sculpture. Nearly their body and soul, the visitors return with sixteen feet high, the sitting bull is a a feeling of immense satisfaction. monolithic figure of imposing beauty. It was carved in 1659 at the instance of Dodda Sivasamudram Devaraja Wodeyar, the king of Mysore at that time. Simultaneously, one thousand Seventeen miles from Somnathpur on the steps were cut on the hill-side to enable same direct road lies Sivasamudram, devotees to climb to the top of the hill. literally “the ocean of Siva”, a name that Rarely does any visitor to Mysore return sounds appropriate to this little-frequented without paying respects to Sri island-town formed by two branches of the Chamundeswari. She is the presiding deity River Kaveri. Situated on the border of the

113 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA two States formerly known as Madras and The grandeur with which nature has Mysore, this island-town is a grand meeting generously endowed this island is rivalled place of nature’s charms and man’s by its colourful background of history. Many achievements. Its huge hydro-electric deeds of courage and acts of jealousy and station was the first enterprise of its kind hate were enacted in its beautiful environs. in India. There are two huge temples of Siva and A continuous range of hills and valleys Vishnu which stand on the island, the only clothed in thick green forests breaks the witnesses to all that happened here as terrain into a series of highlands that recorded in history or known to tradition. disappear into the horizon like so many soft violet waves. Savage beasts of the jungle Other Spots Near-by roam about in unfettered freedom. Thundering water-falls break the stillness Fifteen miles from Sivasamudram lies the of the region and add an awesome grandeur ancient city of Talkad, now buried deep in to its virgin beauty. Down below in the piles of sand carried in by river Kaveri. gorge, the white walls of the generating While its numerous monuments lie buried stations shimmer in the light of the Sun. from the sight of man, the beautiful temple The island itself is a small one, three miles of Kirti Narayana, built in 1117 A.D., has long and a mile wide. Except for its small been cleared of its sandy cover. village and its two fine temples the region From Talkad to Tirumakudlu and Narasipur, is thickly wooded. Since these forests are which are situated at the confluence of maintained as a game-reserve, shooting is the rivers Kaveri and Kapini, it is fifteen forbidden, and this has helped the region miles. The road is flanked by smiling paddy to retain its primeval character. fields which stretch far into the horizon The twin water-falls - Gagan Chukki and like a vast green carpet. Tirumakudlu Bara Chukki - are the most alluring spots contains an ancient temple of Siva and is near the island. The river splits itself into a small pilgrimage centre. two streams, of which the western one From there again the traveller may proceed has been harnessed for electricity. They to , a beautiful modern town on call it Gagan Chukki, meaning “the fall from the other side of the river Kapini. With its heaven”. large banana plantations and fruit gardens, The Gagan Chukki has a peculiar beauty of a softly flowing river by its side and quiet its own. Rushing precipitately over the face retreats, the town of Nanjangud has a of a huge abyss, the water of the Kaveri peculiar gentleness. hurtles into the pool below to a depth of The three-day car festival of the deity of 300 feet. The eastern cataract, called the the Nanjundesvar temple, which comes off Bara Chukki, presents an even more thrilling at the end of March every year, is the sight. The volume of water discharged by chief attraction of the place. it is very much greater and the surrounding scenic beauty more pleasing to the eye.

114 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Somnathpur From Tonnur, the forgotten frontier fortress of ancient times, to Melkote, the living At Somnathpur, the Hoysala temple, next centre of Hindu pilgrimage, is half-an-hour’s only in importance to the masterpieces at drive. A small, peaceful and neat looking Belur and Halebid, is the chief centre of town perched on the Yadu Giri Hill, Melkote interest. Built in 1268 A.D. by Commander is a place where the past still lives in the , an officer under the Hoysala King, present. this temple is a fully developed specimen Its cobbled pathways, very much as they of the school of architecture to which this were 900 years ago; the beautiful Kalyani ruling dynasty gave its name. pond by whose side Ramanuja discovered This triple-shrine pot-stone structure the buried image of Narayana; the 500 planned in modest proportions has been year-old colossal Gopala Raya gate-way, raised on a star-shaped plan. Right round marvellous though unfinished; its crumbling its exterior walls an amazing variety of fort-walls draped in the foliage and sculptures depicting the epic stories have blossoms of wild creepers; the mountain been chiselled in bold relief in the finest spring Vedapushkarani ; inscribed and style of the time. sculptured tablets of stone recording deeds The most unique aspects of this monument of chivalry and sacrifice, - these and a are the ceiling panels in the main hall, each hundred other relics of events, recent and one of which has been moulded in an remote, echo the voice of a thousand years independent way. Large fragments of stone of history. The reformer-saint Ramanuja chiselled to their minutest details in stayed here for over twelve years, advance have been pieced together to preaching his philosophy and organising constitute these complicated patterns. new institutions of learning and worship. Of the three shrines round the central hall The greatest pageant of the year at two cells contain remarkable examples of Melkote is the “Vaira Mudi” in the month of plastic art in the life-size statues of gods. March, when the processional idol is decorated with a diamond crown, an Tonnur and Melkote endowment by a Hoysala king 700 years ago. This crown is reputed to contain The insignificant looking village of Tonnur precious stones of inestimable value. (known as Vadava Giri in its days of prosperity), lying close to the Pearl Lake, Belur and Halebid was an ancient military outpost. In 1099, a little after England was over-run by the The road from Hassan to Belur, a distance Normans, Ramanuja, a great thinker and of 22 miles, passes through delightful scenic reformer, came here seeking the shelter surroundings. Belur’s situation is indeed and patronage of King Vishnu Vardhana very picturesque, surrounded as it is, by a from the persecution of his neighbour rich and luxuriant tropical scenery. A Karikala, the Chola Emperor. flourishing capital of the 800 years ago, the chief interest of this

115 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA modern town is its ancient temple dedicated profusion of skills lavished on the pillars, to Chenna Kesava or the “handsome ceilings, doorways, and the bracket- Kesava”. The Chenna Kesava temple of figures. The stone image of Chenna Kesava Belur is one of which Abdur Razak, the in the sanctum of this temple and the Kappe famous Muslim visitor from Iran in 1433, Chenniga Raya idol in an adjoining shrine said that he dared not attempt any within the same compound are two of the description, lest he should be accused of finest examples of plastic art in mediaeval exaggeration. The Hoysala King Vishnu India. Vardhana constructed this temple in lll7 From Belur to Halebid, the metropolis of A.D. Unassuming from a distance, the the Hoysala Kingdom, is hardly a 10 mile Chenna Kesava temple reveals itself in all drive through a picturesque and delightful its beauty as the visitor approaches it at tract. Of the many great buildings of this close quarters. ancient city, only a few have survived the The main structure, which is star-shaped, Muslim invasion of 1310 A.D. Of these, the is a homogeneous architectural unit raised most imposing monument is the on a platform. Its three door-ways on the Hoysaleswara temple, dedicated to Lord east, north and south are master-pieces Siva. of craftsmanship. The low railing on which Commenced a decade later than the Belur the outer wall of the temple has been temple by Vishnu Vardhana, this temple, raised is subjected to an amazing variety the biggest of all Hoysala monuments, was of carvings which rise one upon another in left uncompleted after 80 years of labour. well defined horizontal lines. It is rather The most magnificent part of the temple is difficult to describe the infinite patience its outer walls, which have been covered and skill with which the sculptors have over, almost every inch of space, with fashioned the intricate details of the scroll friezes of an amazing variety. “All that is work, the niches, the elephants, the wild in human faith or warm in feeling is miniature turrets and human figures and found portrayed on these walls”. The gods. amount of skilled labour lavished on the A singularly beautiful aspect of this depiction of elephants, cavalry, mythical monument is its thirty-eight figure-brackets beasts and birds, its scroll work of infinite that decorate the capitals of the pillars beauty and variety of design, sculptural supporting the caves of the temple. For representation of familiar epic stories and sheer beauty of form, delicacy of the big panels of gods and goddesses of workmanship and perfection of finish they the Hindu pantheon running right across have few parallels in the country. The the walls, are things for which it is hard to subjects are all secular, and mostly find parallels elsewhere. feminine. They have been chiselled in the most graceful and charming poses ever conceived by any artist. The interior of the building is unrivalled by any other monument of this school for the

116 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA

SRINGERI

The Setting Renowned for the leading established by Adi Shankara, the lion of Vedanta, about 70 miles from the coffee-rich Chikmagalur, nestles the pretty little town of Sringeri. The river Tunga, which is justly famous for its limpid waters, meanders tortuously down the town. Situated in the plateau of the western ghats popularly called “Malanad”, surrounded by a fringe of imposing hills, which rise like the galleries of huge amphitheatre, the sacred India, which is the fittest conduit for the town of Sringeri casts an ineffable spell on flow of the elixir of Vedanta containing as the visitors. it does the sublime spiritual realisation of the ancient seers. With that end in view The Name he established four monasteries at the four strategic cardinal points of the country. The place derived the appellation of All these different monasteries are “Sringeri” from “Sringa giri”, a hill lying to associated with different divinities, Tirthas, the south of the town, where the immortal Vedas, Acharyas, , sage Rishyasringa had his abode. Sri Mahavakyas and titles. Shankara, the august founder of Sringeri Mutt, who combined in himself the supreme Reminiscences of History realisation of Vedantic truth with the most pragmatic knowledge of human welfare, After dealing a severe blow to the decadent recognised that the progress and greatness Buddhism and resurrecting the crest-fallen of Sanatana Dharma hinges upon the revival Hinduism, Shankara came to Sringeri, where of Vedanta philosophy embedded in he was awe-struck to witness the strange Upanishads, as well as on the reorganisation of the monastic set-up in

117 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA spectacle of a cobra spreading out its hood immense devotion have adorned the over a toad that was having labour pain, glorious peetha. its natural prey, to protect it from the The present [1974] pontiff of Sringeri, Sri scorching heat of the mid-day sun. H. H. Jagadguru Abhinava Vidya Tirtha, is Considering this place to be free from a man of versatile scholarship and great animosity, Shankara chose the place to sanctity. His claim to reverence is admitted set-up his monastery. by all Hindus. Radiating spiritual aura and The uncorrupt, splendid natural beauty benign influence on the suffering humanity coupled with the calm tranquillity prevailing ever since its inception, Sringeri Mutt has there might have also induced Shankara continued to be a foundation of bliss and to establish the mutt at Sringeri. Indeed, wisdom. a more charming spot can hardly be found in the whole of Mysore plateau which The Role of the Mutt as Protector of abounds in numerous natural scenes. The Dharma high peaks of the Western ghats, silhouetting against the sky in all directions, The role played by the monastery in the dense forest full of tropical vegetation, protecting Hindu Dharma from the barbaric the warbling birds and the solitude that onslaughts of Islam was magnificent. The reign all around conjure up the irresistible illustrious Vidyaranyaswami who ascended vision of the hermitage of the hoary sages. the Peetha in 1331 inspired the valiant Besides the Mutt, Shankara also erected a brothers, Hukka and Bukka to build the temple wherein he enshrined the image of Vijayanagar empire that formed the bulwark Sharada Devi brought from Kashmir. He of Hinduism in south against the Moghul installed a Sri-Chakra in front of her and attack. prayed her to remain at Sringeri forever. Though Sringeri contains more than a dozen The temple was reconstructed some ninety temples, the finest and most magnificent years back, as the old temple was in a among them is Vidyashankara temple built dilapidated condition. During Navarathri by Vidyaranyaswami with the assistance special poojas and prayers are held for this of Vijayanagara rulers. This temple is one deity and it is one of the most important of the finest structures constructed during festivals of Sringeri. the 300 years of . In Vidyashankara temple we see the The First Head of the Mutt remarkable blend of the Hoysala and Chalukyan styles. Sureshwaracharya, the immediate disciple of Shankara, was appointed as the first The Temple: its Sculpture head of the monastery. Ever since Sureshwaracharya, a luminous un- Built wholly in granite, the outer walls of interrupted succession of Acharyas of the temple abound in sculptural works of profound knowledge, great piety and rare beauty, depicting the very many incidents from Puranas. In the Navaranga,

118 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA there are 12 pillars, each representing the Hampi, the Capital of 12 symbols of the zodiac, and when the sun passes from one house of zodiac to old-time Vijayanagar another the rays fall directly upon the respective pillars. There are two splendidly carved idols of Dwarapalakas standing near n the banks of the turbulent the doorway. The figures of Surya and Tungabhadra, about nine miles Chandra Mandala found on the outer walls Ofrom the town of Hospet in Bellary reveal the influence of North Indian style. District there stands, amidst splendid isolation and solitude of wild nature, Hampi The Shrine, Library and Endowment - once a flourishing and fabulous capital city of glorious Vijayanagar that saved The Janardanaswami shrine situated near Hindus in the South from the onslaughts the Vidya Shankara temple houses the tall of Muslim invasion. Hampi today wears a wooden image of Adi Shankara. On the grim and desolate look with its awe-inspiring other side of the river Tunga is “Narasimha ruins and magnificent dilapidated shrines Vanam”, where stands the samadhi of late scattered over an area of 9 sq. miles. Chandrasekara Saraswathi. On the day of Kishkinda, the scene of many dramatic Shankara Jayanthi a big congregation of episodes described in the Ramayana, is religious scholars is held here, in which believed to be in the proximity of Hampi. scholars hailing from various parts of the on the north bank of Tungabhadra country participate. is identified as ancient Kishkinda. About The library of the Mutt contains a large two miles from here is the celebrated Pampa number of books on a wide spectrum of Sarovar, about which there is abundant subjects like Advaita philosophy, logic, reference in the Ramayana. Near Pampa astrology, mathematics, ritualism and Sarovar is the Anjani hill, where Anjaneya archaeology. was born. The rulers of Vijayanagara dynasty endowed lands on the Mutt and made it The Story of Kishkinda “Samasthana”. After the collapse of Vijayanagara, Venkatappa Nayaka The Vanara king, Vali and his younger patronised the Mutt with lavish donations. brother, were ruling the territory It was subsequently supported by the rulers of Kishkinda in Puranic days. Though they of various dynasties, such as were on cordial terms, a misunderstanding Peshwas, Gaekwads, Holkars, etc. That developed between them and they fell out. Hyder and Tippu held the Mutt in great Vali not only expelled Sugriva, but also veneration is clearly evidenced by nearly forcibly captured his wife Ruma. Sugriva 130 records in possession of the along with Hanuman sought refuge in the archaeology department of Mysore circle. woods of Rishyamukha Hill, where Vali could not enter owing to a dreadful curse of sage

119 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Matanga. Even now people point to a Talikota in the year 1565, Virupaksha temple nearby hill as Rishyamukha. miraculously escaped pillage. The Sri Rama and Lakshmana, while in the celebrated Portuguese traveller, Domingo course of their search for Sita, who had Pais, who visited Vijayanagar during the been carried away by the tyrant king reign of , has left a graphic Ravana, entered Rishyamukha. When account of this temple in his jottings. Hanuman approached Lakshmana and asked the reason for their coming to Rishyamuka, Inscriptions Throw Light Lakshmana replied that they were out in search of Sita. Hanuman requested them The temple standing intact has preserved to secure the friendship of Sugriva. its ancient glory and splendour. Built in the typical Chalukyan style this temple abounds Sri Rama’s Pact with Sugriva in splendid inscriptions that enlighten us about its history. The Rangamantapa and Rama entered into a pact of friendship with eastern gateway of this temple was built Sugriva, after Sugriva showed Rama the by Krishnadevaraya. The majestic eastern jewels of Sita thrown down by her. Rama gopuram of the temple has 11 storeys and made Sugriva the King of Kishkinda after is known as Gali Gopuram (“Gali” in Kannada killing Vali. The place where Vali was for “air”). cremated is pointed out by people of the The presiding deity is a huge monolithic locality near Nimbapuram. About 60 miles Linga which is always decorated with from Kishkinda is the birth place of Sabari. Moustache. The Vijayanagara Empire had The various boulders of stones near about shown as a resplendent sun of glorious the place are stated to be remnants of Hindu Renaissance for a period of 300 years the huge stones collected by Hanuman for showering peace, plenty and prosperity all the building of the “Setu” across the sea. over the South. The much suppressed and long suffering Hindus began to breathe a The Puranas Refer to Hampi fresh air of freedom under Vijayanagar empire, which stood as a mighty bulwark Hampi was famous from very ancient times against the plundering Muslim hordes. as the great seat of Virupaksha or Vijayanagara Rulers contributed enormously Pampapathi - the tutelary deity of to the revival of Hindu Dharma and Hindu Vijayanagara Dynasty. Padmapurana has culture. classified Virupaksha with such celebrated Kshetras as Benares, Badri, Prayag etc, Vijayanagar - Legend and History after a visit to which one has a shave and observes a fast. While most of the temples Vijayanagara empire was founded in 1336 and religious edifices of breath-taking by and Bukka under the inspiration beauty were mercilessly devastated by the of Swami of Sringeri Mutt. They plundering Muslim army after the tragic fall made Pampapathi or Virupaksha their patron of Vijayanagar in the bloody battle of deity and family God.

120 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA city flourished with showers of gold and diamonds. The first ruler of Vijayanagar was Harihara. During his regime Vijaya- nagar came into promi- nence as Dakshina Kasi and Virupa- ksha as one of the “Divya Kshetras” of Bharata. Bukka, who succeeded There is an interesting story attributed to Harihara, became famous as a tolerant and Vidyaranya Swami, who was known as enlightened ruler. in his pre-monastic days. Though he was a profound scholar, dire poverty Krishnadevaraya’s Illustrious Reign remained his constant companion. In order to do away with poverty and gain wealth, It was during the reign of Krishnadevaraya he performed Mahalakshmi Yaga for a period that the power and glory of Vijayanagar of 12 years. But Lakshmi never appeared ascended to its zenith. He extended his before him. empire from to Salsette, to the Being dejected and disappointed, he extreme south and to western islands in renounced the mundane world and became the Indian Ocean. He patronised art and a Sannyasin. The moment he took to culture. It was the short-sighted policy of monastic life Lakshmi appeared before him Ramaraya that spelled the disastrous doom and insisted on his expressing his desire. of the glorious Vijayanagara empire. On Though as a recluse he never required any January 23, 1665, the combined army of wealth, at the insistence of Lakshmi he the Muslim states of , , Golconda requested her to grant the boon that and Ahmednagar launched an attack on whenever he desired there should be a Vijayanagar and in a bloody battle that shower of gold and diamonds. Lakshmi was fought in the village of Rakka- granted his wish. It is said that when satangadi Ramaraya was killed. The Vijayanagara Empire came into being, the triumphant Muslim army indulged in a

121 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA systematic and ruthless destruction of the with brilliant sculptural works depicting fabulous architectural wealth of various scenes from the Ramayana. Vijayanagar. The cynosure of the pilgrim’s eye in Hampi is a colossal monolithic statue of Narasimha A Vast Open-air Museum with a canopy of Sesha Naga. Originally, Lakshmi was also there. This awe-inspiring Today Hampi with its magnificent ruins and image was also damaged by Muslim relics littered over an area of 9 sq. miles is invaders. To the north of the Narasimha described as “Vast open air museum of the icon is the Krishnaswami temple built by Hindu monuments in the Dravidian style of Krishnadevaraya. North of it stands the architecture”. Ganesha Shrine and a group of Jain temples The most striking and largest temple among called Hemakuta. About half a mile to the the ruins of Hampi is Pattabhirama Temple, north-east of Pampapathi temple is which, with its soaring lofty towers, Chakratirtha and Rishyamukha hill. Near dominates the surrounding flat landscape. Chakratirtha are found huge rock-hewn It was built by Achyutaraya. At a distance images of Rama, Lakshmana, Sita and of a mile from here is Malayavana Hill. Also Hanuman. called Saptika Shikha, it was the place where Sri Rama stayed for about four months after his alliance with Sugreeva. The shrine standing here enshrines a captivating monolithic image of Raghunatha.

Malayavana - Shrines of Hazara Rama and Narasimha

Near Malayavana hill is located the Vijaya Vittala temple built by Krishnadevaraya. This temple is considered to be “the masterpiece of the empire’s work in art”. In the court of this splendid temple there is a magnificent massive stone chariot. The Mantapas of the temple speak volumes for the dexterity and skill of the south Indian sculptures. The stone pillars supporting the Mantapam, described as “ musical pillars”, produce the seven notes of the music when tapped. Hazra Rama temple is next worth visiting. The walls of this temple are resplendent

122 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA The sacred white clay Melkote B. RADHAKRISHNA RAO Meanwhile, Ramanuja, got upset at the exhaustion of “Tirumannu” or sacred white “Aum Namo Narayana” AT A distance of 30 clay used by Sri Vaishnavas for making miles from Mysore City, on the Mysore- marks on the fore-head. He had a dream Bangalore road, one can see a beautiful that there was abundant supply of cluster of irregular hills dotted with Tirumannu at nearby Yadusaila. With the magnificent temple towers dominating the help of Bittideva, Ramanuja spotted out landscape for miles around. That is the place and got the much needed Melkote, - the celebrated sacred spot of Tirumannu. Sri Vaishnavas in Karnataka. At Yadusaila Ramanuja also had a dream, in which he saw the form of Lord Narayana Yadugiri’s fame: Ramanuja’s Choice buried deep beneath the ground on the hill. He soon discovered the deity, The rows of hills stretching to a length of consecrated it, built a temple, and also 3 miles from east to west has been famous made necessary arrangements for from very ancient times as Yadu Giri or conducting the daily pooja according to a Yadu Saila. It is said that a mere desire to set pattern. Ramanuja also established here visit Yadu Giri fetches as much benefit as the Yathiraja Mutt, and renamed the place an actual visit does. In his prayer, as “ Thirunarayanapuram “. Ramanuja has accorded to Melkote a place of importance along with three Vaishnavite The processional deity and the legend religious centres, Tirupathi, Srirangam and of chelvapillai Kanchi. Melkote’s fame extended to faraway places The processional deity or Utsava Vigraha after Ramanuja chose it as his abode for of the Thirunarayana temple is known by stay of a period of twelve years. Being different names like Selva Pillai, Ramapriya, unable to withstand the persecution meted Yathiraja-Kumara etc. When Ramanuja out on Srivaishnavas by the Chola Emperor came to know that the image of Ramapriya Kulothunga, Ramanuja along with his had been taken away by the Sultan of Delhi, followers came fleeing along the Kaveri he rushed to Delhi and requested the Sultan bank and reached the province of Tonnur to hand it back to him. The Sultan is said ruled over by a Jain King called Bittideva. to have told Ramanuja that he was free to Ramanuja was soon befriended by take the idol if it responded to his call. Bittideva. It is said that Bittideva Accordingly, Ramanuja called it in endearing renounced Jainism and adopted terms as Chelvapillai and Chelva Narayana, Vaishnavisim after Ramanuja cured the and lo! the idol came running to Ramanuja mysterious disease of his daughter. and sat on his lap. Varanandini, the daughter of Sultan, whose dear playmate this image was, being unable to bear the

123 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA separation from Ramapriya, followed In the temple there is also a sub-shrine of Ramanuja. On reaching Melkote, Sudarshana Alvar (Vishnu’s Discus). Right Varanandini stood transformed into an idol at the entrance to the sanctum there are at the feet of the Lord. Even today pooja two arresting figures of Dwara-palakas, is offered to the idol of Varanandini as The “ Stalavriksha” of the place is an Bhudevi, - one of the divine consorts of ancient Badri tree, and on account of the the Lord. While returning to Melkote along Badri tree Melkote came to be known as with the idol, at a number of places, the Badrikashrama of the South. Panchamas (out-castes) extended assistance to Ramanuja and out of gratitude The attack by Moghuls to them Ramanuja permitted them to enter the temple and called them The dawn of the 14th century witnessed “Thirukkulathars”, those of the sacred a colossal and reckless destruction of the community. Even today the car festival of splendid sculptural wealth of Karnataka by Thirunarayana on the occasion of the invading Moghul army. The Moghuls, “Vairamudi Utsava” is conducted by who divested and plundered Belur and “Thirukkulathars “. Halebedu, attacked Tonnur. When the ruler The imposing shrine of Thirunarayana here of Tonnur went fleeing to Melkote, the is square in plane. In the Navaranga of the Moghul army pursued him to Melkote and temple idols of Sampigai Alvar, Nathamuni did considerable damage to the temple. and Alavandar are found. A beautiful statue of Ramanuja stands nearby the sanctuary The Royal gift of a crown of gems dedicated to Yadugiriyamma, the consort of Thirunarayana. Worship in the temple is It is Thimmanna Nayaka, a chieftain of not considered complete unless offerings Nagamangala, who rebuilt the temple and are made to Ramanuja. restored its ancient splendour and glory. He also presented a number of gold Ramanuja breathes life into his icon ornaments to the deity. The rulers of Mysore also patronised the temple with The statue of Ramanuja is believed to have lavish endowments. Raja Wadayar of Mysore been installed by himself. After the death handed over to the temple the over-lordship of Karikala, Ramanuja decided to leave of fifty villages. He also presented many Melkote for Srirangam. Ramanuja’s decision invaluable gold ornaments to the Lord. to leave Melkote plunged the local Sri Krishna Raja Wadayar, who succeeded Raja Vaishnavas into grief. Thereupon, Ramanuja Wadayar, not only improved the temple to had an icon of himself sculptured and it is a great extent but also presented a gem- said that by embracing the statue he gave studded crown called “Krishna Raja Mudi” it life. He advised his followers to look up to the deity. to the statue, whenever they needed Tippu and Hyder, too are said to have solace of any kind. presented many articles in gold to the Lord. The Vairamudi, a diamond-studded Crown,

124 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA believed to have been presented by Garuda of the Lord in the form of Varaha, where a to Cheluvanarayanaswami is an invaluable beautiful idol of Varaha with Bhudevi sitting ornament. During the “Vairamudi Utsava” on his lap has been installed. Vairamudi, the Lord is adorned with this resplendent the festival par excellence at Melkote, is a Crown. Though Melkote was not originally splendid spectacle, of gorgeous rituals and counted among the 108 Divya Desas gala car processions. This festival coming (divine abodes) venerated by off every year in the first week of April Srivaishnavas, Ramanuja ordained that attracts thousands of people from all over Melkote should be included In the list and the State. The star attraction of Vairamudi this was duly followed. is the car-procession of Cheluvanarayana bedecked with Vairamudi, the divine crown The Temple and the Tirthas of celestial splendour.

The Yoga Narasimha temple at Melkote crowns the hill like a diadem. A fine flight of 360 steps leads the shrine. Devotees Manthralaya can be seen climbing the steps by striking K. R. RAGHOTHAMA RAO cocoanuts against the steps. The Lord Narasimha is seen seated in Yogasana. This AR from the madding crowd cradled idol is said to have been consecrated by in the midst of a tranquil atmosphere himself. In Melkote there are eight Fof splendid isolation and religious holy Tirthas. solitude, on the banks of a swift-flowing, They are Vaikunta Ganga, Narayana, turbulent and yet sacred river Palasha, , Vedapushkarani, Tungabhadra, lies a small hamlet popularly Partha, Padma and Kalyani Pushkarani. It known as ‘Manthralaya’ where thousands is said that every year in the month of of pilgrims all over India and occasionally Phalguna, Ganga manifested in Kalyani from foreign countries also throng in Pushkarani, - Vedapushkarani is believed thousands every day. to have created by the sweat of Varaha- Manthralaya can be reached by bus either Vishnu incarnate as bear. In the month of from the Manthralaya Road railway station Kartika a festival is celebrated here when on the Bombay-Madras rail road or from the deity of Cheluvanarayana is taken to in district. In the first case, Kalyani Pushkarani for Avabrithasnanam. it will be about twenty minutes journey (holy-dip).On the banks of Vedapushkarani and In the latter case about an hour and Sage Dattatreya is stated to have delivered more. Unlike many other places of Vedic teachings to his disciples. pilgrimage, this centre of religious attraction The six sacred spots found in and around is neither situated in any fertile delta with Melkote are: Seetharanaya, Jnana-swatha, green grassy lawns nor is it densely Takshaka Kshetra, Varahakshetra, populated. On the contrary, it is located in Narasimha Kshetra and Thirunarayana the dry and barren tract of ‘’ Kshetra. At Varahakshetra there is a shrine (ceded districts) with its scorching heat.

125 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA The born-Bhakta, the Brindavana Guru The had performed his ‘Yajna‘. Raghavendra presiding deity and the Dvaita Pontiff, made his Brindavana-pravesa, singing the Manthralaya’, taking its name from the only song composed by him in the great presiding deity of the place “Manchala Raga of ‘Bhairavi’. It is the popular belief Devi“, happens to be the abode of Shri that his divine stay in the Brindavana will Raghavendra Swami, one of the greatest be for a total period of seven hundred years. pontiffs of the , Dvaita philosophy as He will continue to be the ‘Kalpakavriksha’ enunciated by Shri Ananda Tirtha, more and ‘Kamadhenu’ on earth, showering the popularly known as the great Madhwa- bounty of his benediction on all those that charya. It is here that the great Guru surrender to him completely. Innumerable Raghavendra made his Brindavana Pravesa are the instances where he has showered in the year Virodhi-Kritu (1671 A. D.). his choicest blessings on his devotees, The Brindavana itself is singularly different without any caste or creed differences. from similar such monuments in that, while Venkanna Bhatta is the pre-monastic name all of them have been raised after the life- of Shri Raghavendra. He came from a God- time of the sacred souls, in whose memory fearing pious Brahmin family of eminent they have been constructed, the Veena Vidwans, who had adorned the Royal Brindavana of Shri Raghavendra was built Court of the illustrious King Shri Krishna in his own very life time. What is more Devaraya. After the fall of the Vijayanagar astounding is that even the very stone Empire, when the family itself had to face slab used in the memorial was ordained by bad days, they came to settle down on Swamiji to be brought from a particular the banks of river Kaveri. place called Madhavara. Legend goes that this stone was sanctified by the Lotus feet Venkanna Bhatta’s early life of Lord Ramachandra Murthy when he rested on it, during his long wanderings in A child of precocity, the Swamiji the dangerously dense forests of demonstrated that he was an embodiment ‘Dandakaranya, in search of his divine of the unfathomable knowledge of Hari, consort Shri Sita Devi. when as he was taught the first alphabet “AUM”, he questioned his father and Guru Kalpakavriksha of the Brindavana Shri Thimmanna Bhatta how the infinite, all pervading Lord could be connoted or No less important is the very spot, where denoted by a small sound “AUM “. the Brindavana stands majestically. In accordance with the tradition and Tradition goes to say that the Lord of custom, all the religious ceremonies Manthralaya was in his first birth the including his Upanayanam were performed illustrious child-devotee , Prahlada “whose at the appropriate time. Venkanna Bhatta faith and devotion made , the had his early education at Madura, under Lord of the Lords, take the ‘Narasimha his brother-in-law, Shri Lakshmi Avatara’. It was exactly on the very spot, Narasimhachar. Shri Lakshmi Narasimhachar, where the Brindavana stands that Prahlada being a learned scholar in Sanskrit and

126 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Vedic lore, imparted to his student a fund Mahabhashya. Since Venkanna had of knowledge in logic, grammar and mastered these subjects, Shri Sudheendra philosophy. Incidentally, Venkanna attained had no hesitation in entrusting to him the high proficiency in the hereditary art of responsibility of meeting the challenge. music and reciting Vedas. Venkanna, undaunted by the fame of his Stepping into youth, with a charming opponent, also exercised all his knowledge personailty and with a solemnity set on his and power in rhetoric to out-wit him in a face, as though to indicate that the face matter of moments. Pleased at his disciple’s was the index of the mind, Shri excellent performance, his Guru immediately Raghavendra was drawn into the bondage conferred on him the title of of marriage. He was married to a virtuous “Mahabhashyacharya”. maid known as Saraswathi, who from then, Many were such occasions, when this was all eager to watch for the needs of Brindavana Guru had made his opponents her husband and cater to them. retreat and established his superiority in knowledge and learning by holding the The genius is manifested assembly spell-bound through the clarity of his diction. Even after the marriage, Venkanna wanted to further his studies. He, therefore, The house-holder approached Shri Sudheendra Tirtha, the then reigning pontiff of Kumbakonam Mutt, On his return from the tour, Venkanna had which had by then earned the reputation to fulfil his obligations as a Grihasta, and of a great centre of learning. He learnt as time passed, he was blessed with a baby “Sudha” and won the appreciation of his boy. Still, his married life was not a pleasant Guru for evincing keen interest in the one. The proverbial poverty of Kuchela of subject. He proved to be a Eka-santa-grahi “ Dwaparayuga” had fallen on him and was by writing a commentary on “ Sudha” even haunting him wherever he went. Even day as he was learning it. His Guru accidentally to day existence was very difficult. To add discovered this trait of his disciple and to it, students were thronging to him for recognising the genius in him, conferred acquiring knowledge, as his fame as a on him the title of “Parimalacharya”. master in Vedic lore had spread far and In tune with the custom of those days of wide. According to the then prevalent enlightenment and knowledge, when all the Gurukula system, the preceptors were learned scholars travelled through the expected to look after their disciples and length and breadth of the country to arrange to fulfil their needs during their exchange views on religion, Shri stay with the . Sudheendra also, accompanied by his During these days of want and suffering retinue including Venkanna, was on a neither did the Guru permit his mind to religious tour. Then, he came across a wander away from Him, nor did his virtuous, Dravid Saint, who expressed his desire to better half fail in her devoted attention have a debate on Vyakarana and and duties to her husband.

127 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA The miracle of Agni and Varuna Suktas reigns of the Math, which included the daily performance of Puja to “Moola Rama” Once, unable to bear the pangs of hunger enshrined in the Math and worshipped by and suffering faced by his dear wife and Madhvacharya in his two previous births the darling son, for days together, as Hanuman and Bheema. However, Shri Venkanna decided to attend, anticipating Raghavendra was unable to withdraw bountiful gifts, a dinner arranged by the himself from the bondage of Grihastasrama, village head of Bhuvana Giri to all Brahmins. until Goddess Saraswathi ordained him in a When, however, he stepped into the house dream to do so, as he was to become the of the host, an attendant of the house, guardian angel of the entire world and not mistaking this good looking scholar with a just be a selfish family head. well built body to be an ordinary visitor, On an auspicious day, Venkanna Bhatta entrusted to him the task of making sandal was installed as the pontifical head of paste for distribution to the guests after Kumbakonam Math which was under the food. It so happened that Guru patronage of King Raghunatha of Tanjore, Raghavendra, while preparing the paste was who undertook the entire responsibility of then chanting ‘Agnisukta’ as a part of his conducting all the religious rituals attached daily recitations of Vedas, and hence when to the transfer of power. He was named as the paste was applied by the guests lo! Guru Raghavendra. there were cries of pain and suffering. It Many are the miracles with which the name was not difficult for the kind and of Guru Raja Shri Raghavendra is sympathetic Guru to realise what had associated. One such during his life time happened. In a matter of minutes he relates to the manner in which he acquired relieved the sufferings of those who had Manthralaya. applied to themselves the sandal paste prepared by him, by invoking Varuna by, More miracles “Varuna Sukta “. Needless to state that the host not only realised the grievous During one of his usual ‘Desa Sancharas’ injustice done to the learned scholar and (wanderings) to propagate the ideals of apologised for his inadvertence but also Dvaita philosophy, Lord Raghavendra came richly rewarded him with many a gift. across a boy with his own name, Venkanna but with no higher education. For reasons Raghavendra’s mission best known to him, he assured the boy of his help in times of need and distress. Time had come for Guru Raghavendra to Venkanna, without the rudiments of carry out the mission of his life. It was learning, was one day presented with a also ripe for the suffering Venkanna to be message addressed to the Nawab of Adoni, transformed into Great Raghavendra, the and was asked to read it, failing which he reliever of sufferings. He was, therefore, was threatened with grave consequences. called upon by his Guru Shri Sudheendra Immediately Venkanna prayed to Lord to give up Grihastasrama and take up the Raghavendra for help and as luck would

128 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA permanent place in the Palace and by his personal efforts he slowly rose up to the position of the Diwan of Adoni. So when Lord Raghavendra visited Adoni Diwan Venkanna had arranged befitting reception to the sage in which he had requested Masud Khan, the Nawab of Adoni, also to participate. Masud Khan visited the ‘’ with unworthy motives and presented him a non- vegetarian dish neatly covered in a silk cloth. However, it was not difficult for the great yogi to perceive what was happening. He sprinkled water in the process of offering It as “Neivedya” to the Lord, and (Lo and behold !) all that the Nawab had offered had changed into delicious fruits and flowers with reddish colour. The Nawab realised his folly, begged to be pardoned and offered to give away villages of the choice of the Guru as inam. Lord Raghavendra wanted only Manthralaya, as it was his chosen domain of worship, where he had as Prahlada previously performed ‘Yajna’ and where he wanted to stay in the Brindavana. The village thus passed on to the hands of a brahmin Guru from that of a Muslim Fakir, to whom it had earlier been presented. have it, he found himself capable of reading The other miracle, with a gazetted the Script, in which the message was record, and performed after the Jagad written. What is more, the message Guru’s Brindavana-pravesa is linked with contained such happy news of his army’s no other than the great Sir Thomas Munroe, victory in a battle that it earned for him a an officer of the Company.

129 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Sir Thomas Munroe’s experiences Sutra and Upanishads, he has composed many lucid commentaries on the three The British rule in India decided to revoke Vedas and on the works of Sri inams granted earlier to various persons Madhwacharya. and institutions. When, however, the Math authorities submitted a petition as to why Predictions proving true the inam should be retained and not taken away, Sir Thomas Munroe was deputed to Once three learned astrologers after a decide the issue after an on the spot perusal of the Guruji’s horoscope predicted enquiry. Accordingly, Sir Thomas came to independently three different versions of the village, and he went towards the Math the life period of the Guru on earth as 100 bare-footed and without his hat on in due years, 300 years and 700 years. Guruji deference to the sanctity of the place and himself accepted all the three predictions as a mark of his personal respect to the and explained that 100 years indicate the unseen but living Guru Sarwabhowma. life-time, 300 years the period when his To his utter astonishment, he saw a brilliant writings would be read and understood, and figure clad in a “Sannyasi’s attire emerging 700 years the period of his Brindavana stay. from the Brindavana, though invisible to Thus this sacred Lord of Manthralaya is the others. The sage himself advocated still staying with us, though in an invisible the cause of the Math and convinced Sir form, and attends to the need of all those Thomas as to how the endowment was that surrender to him. irrevocable. Sir Thomas had no hesitation in quashing the proposal to revoke the -Homage by “GURU DASA“. endowment. None present at that time there knew what was happening, and all were surprised why Sir Thomas was talking apparently to himself. The sage was visible and audible only to Sir Thomas Munroe. The above details were recorded in the Madras District Gazetteer by W. Francis Esq., ICS (Reprint 1916 by Superintendent Govt. Press, Madras) chapter XV, Adoni Tq., Page No. 213. These and several other untold miracles were performed in response to the exigencies of time and situation and not with a desire to exhibit the Guru’s supernatural powers. The contributions of Lord Raghavendra to Sanskrit Literature are very great. Apart from independent works on Gita, Brahma

130 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA thanks to the facilities for travel and stay The Seven Sacred provided by the Devasthanam authorities. Hills of Tirupati Tirupati town is at the foot of a chain of hills that are a part of the . ‘SATYA’ The sacred spot, on which the temple of Lord stands, is 2,800 feet NATURE in her glory, splendour, and charm, above the sea-level and is known in Tamil greets the pilgrims who pour into this as Tirumalai or the Holy Hill (Tiru-Holy, mountain abode of Lord Venkateswara. The Malai-Hill). This holy place is considered Tirupati Hills and valleys, in hues of green as marking the northern boundary of the and indigo, dotted with splashes of bright Tamil speaking country, of which the colours where wild flowers abound, warmly southern limit is Kanya Kumari or Cape welcome the travel-weary pilgrim. God Comorin. To stand in the Sanctum cannot but be present at such a spot of Sanctorum and look upon the deity, while magnificent beauty, and sanctity. It is no the darshan lasts, even if it may be only exaggeration to call this place ‘Bhooloka- for a few seconds, would send a thrill up Vaikuntham’, the abode of the Heavenly one’s spine, the hairs standing on end and Lord on earth even as Mathura and Brindavan are of Krishna. Situated in the of this pilgrim centre attracts millions of pilgrims from all corners of India. Known as Venkatachalapathi and Venkatesa Perumal to South Indians, Venkata Ramanamoorthy and Edukondalavadu (the deity of a strange current of indescribable potency the Seven Hills) to the people of Andhra blended with ineffable delight passes Pradesh and Balaji to those in Northern through the body. The long, tiresome India, He is the Deity resorted to by one journey, the hours of waiting in the queue and all without distinction, and to His feet and the resultant weariness are washed devotees rush in millions, throughout the away when one is ushered into the year. This pilgrim centre, which, about Sanctum. One feels cool, refreshed, forty-years ago could be approached only peaceful, the worries forgotten and the after an arduous journey, is today easily mind concentrating on the Lord’s name. It accessible to millions of devotees seeking is as if, with His gaze the Lord bathes one solace and cure, whatever their ailments, in a shower of grace and cleanses his body whatever their desires and aspirations, and mind of all sufferings.

131 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA The Management of the Devasthanam and one of the seven hills. On days when the its income were taken over by the number of pilgrims is comparatively small, government, and a statutory body with 11 an estimated 6000 people visit the shrine, members and an executive was appointed while on crowded days (above 270 days in in 1951 under the HR & C E Act. A road the year) the number reaches up to 20,000. running to 11 miles with 56 hair-pin bends, During special religious festivals like the constructed in 1942, meanders through the Brahmotsvam and on the New Year’s day chain of hills flanked on either side by the inflow of pilgrims reaches the staggering towering hills and deep valleys resplendent figure of 2,00,000. The authorities are in natural scenic beauty. Many enthusiastic faced with problems concerning visitors to the shrine still undertake the accommodation and transport of the journey up-hill on foot, not merely to fulfil pilgrims, as well as with that of providing a vow, but to drink in the beauty of the minimum convenience for huge numbers of Lord’s seat, and also because it gives a devotees standing in long queues for hours feeling of elation to trek up the mountains, on end, and filing past in unending line for to stand in the sacred presence of the Darshanam. They have reduced the hours Lord. for special and paid Darshanams, even though it means a fall in revenue, to allot Accommodation and Transport more time for the people standing in the queue for free or Dharma Darshanam. Tirupati is now well connected by bus Quicker movement- arrangements in the service to many southern cities and to all temple premises would mean alteration of the major district headquarters of Andhra its structure, and this would provoke Pradesh and by rail to all parts of India. opposition from orthodox organisations as Up-hill there are 450 cottages and guest- weIl as devotees in general. The last ritual houses and 305 tenements run by the of the night is performed only after the Devasthanam authorities, besides other last man waiting in the queue for the choultries easily accommodating 8000 Dharma Darshanam has had his turn. persons. Downhill there are Choultries with 260 rooms and 400 tenements, apart from Rituals a number of hotels and private lodging houses in the now improved township, and The day starts before dawn, as early as 3 yet the pouring number of Pilgrims is A.M., with the reverberant notes of the sometimes too large to accommodate. The filling the air, and beseeching constant rush and increasing number of the Lord to wake up and bestow His pilgrims has necessitated the lay-out of blessings on the millions thirsting for a look yet another bus-route up-hill, at an of Him. From 3.30 A.M. to 5.30 A.M., is estimated expense of Rs. 52 lakhs. This Viswaroopa Darsanam, when devotees road has only 6 hair-pin bends as against queue up for a free darshan. An hour from the 56 on the other, and runs over a then, 5.30 to 6.30, is the performance of distance of eleven miles, circling all but the Thomala (the Lord wearing his

132 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA usual attire and bedecked in flowers). From On Tuesdays and Wednesdays 6.30 A.M. to 8.00 A.M. is the Sahasrakalasabhishekam, the ritual of Archana (chanting of 1008 names of the bathing the Lord connected by a thread Lord) followed by food offerings. to the five Utsava , (Bhoga Srinivasa, The Sarvadarshanam (free universal entry) Visvak Sena, Malayappa, Sri Devi and Bhu starts again at 9.00 A.M. and continues Devi) with water from 1008 pots is till mid-night with short breaks for cleaning performed. (A devotee wishing this up the sanctum and performing two Sahasrakalasabhishekam to be performed Ashtottarams (chanting of 108 names) and in his name has to pay Rs. 2,000). food offerings at noon and in the evening. On these days another ritual, called During the morning Pujas, hymns from the Thirupavada, offering six bags of Vedas (Sanskrit) and selections from Divya Puliyodarai is performed. (A fee of Prabandhas (Tamil) are chanted. (After the Rs. 2,500/- is charged for this offering to Thomala Seva, the Utsava Deity (or the be made in the name of a particular Divine form that is taken out in procession devotee). On Thursdays the Lord is around the shrine) holds a daily durbar, divested of all the jewels including the when the almanac for the day and the glittering stone-set mark on the fore-head, statement of Account relating to the and his full countenance is revealed to all previous day’s Hundi collections are in this state till seven in the evening. Then announced in Telugu. he is decked from head to foot in flowers. For the food offering (Prasadam) rice- This ritual known as Poolangi Seva is a feast preparations like Tamarind rice, rice, to the eyes of the devotees. Adorned sweet rice and rice with green gram, pepper exclusively in flowers provided by the pure and ghee are made. A part of the offerings bounty of Nature the Lord exudes the goes to the Mirasis (the persons performing fragrance of a rare serenity and charm different rites and tasks in the temple bewitching to the beholder. The routine) and the rest, belonging to the Abhishekam is performed on Fridays Devasthanam, is distributed to the between 7.00 A.M. to 9.00 A.M. He devotees. Only after all the devotees had thereafter appears bedecked in his jewellery darshan and the last man had left, which between 3.00 P.M. and 4.00 P.M. in Alankara may be at 10.30 P.M. or even later Seva; and then the Dharma Darshana depending on the crowd, the Ekantha Seva, starts again after 4.00 P.M. (About 2000 during which the Lord is put to sleep, is persons are admitted at a charge of Re. 1/ performed. (On a charge of Rs. 4/- per - per head to witness the Abhishekam). head, devotees are admitted to the During the month of Marga Sira (Dec.-Jan.) sanctum to witness this Ekantha Seva in the early mornings the Tiruppavai of ritual). Andal is sung instead of Suprabhatam, and Apart from these rituals which are during this month the Lord is worshipped performed every day, there are special only with Bilvadalas, the tender leaves of rituals on particular days of the week and Vilva tree, which is regarded as the on festive occasions. favourite of Lord Shiva. It is evident from

133 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA this and similar particulars that the Deity here is worshipped both in Saivite and Vaishnavite manners, thus ruling out all sectarian clashes. The Kalyanam (performance of the marriage of Venkateswara and Padmavathy Devi) at Rs. 700/- per group of 12 persons with a maximum of 30 groups, the Brahmotsavam, Vimanotsvam, and Paniyara Utsavam are also performed in a separate hall for devotees who pay for the ceremony. (It may be relevant to mention that the again restored to his original temple on the imposition of fees in a graded scale for the hill. Sri Ramanuja was mainly responsible several items serves among other things for enlarging the temple structure and to regulate the crowd). reorganising the scheme of worship according to the pattern of a Poojavidhi. Other Temples in Tirupati An amusing story is told of being left alone in the temple at , while Seven miles from Tirupati town is Alamelu the Lord had gone away to his abode up in Mangapuram, where a temple for the hills. When she came with her husband, Padmavathi as Alamelu Mangai is as is the vogue, she had brought all the constructed. It is said that the temple was necessary articles, utensils and built around 826 A.D. for both Srinivasa accessories. But upon their arrival at and Padmavathi, as the temple on the hill Tirupati, in the foot-hills, the Lord found was then inaccessible to devotees, and that she had omitted to bring “curry leaves” around 960 A.D. during the time of the (Kariveppilai) and appearing irate for the Acharya-devotees Alavandar and omission. He left His consort at Tiruchanur Tirumalainambi, Venkatachalapathi was and went up alone, though condescending

134 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA to come down once in a week (on Fridays) the rites on a honorary basis, receiving and visit her, in response to her entreaties. just a share in the gifts, food offerings, To this day, no one can find a single curry etc. Four Mirasis, on a year’s round in turns, leaf tree surviving in and around Tiruchanur. make and get ready the flowers She is decked out daily with flowers and for worship, flowers collected from the 25 ornaments like a bride, and pooja acre farm maintained by the temple is the most important ritual performed in authorities. this temple. The Archakas are also Mirasis, Among the Married women consider it an auspicious Archakas, there are both Jeeyers as well rite to perform kumkum pooja in their name, as others. There are Mirasis to fetch water wishing for the longevity of their husbands. from , playing the Nadaswaram, Down the hills in Tirupati town is the temple lighting the lamps and performing other of Govindaraja Swami. Sri Ramanuja brought duties. the image of Govindaraja from Tallapaka Anantacharya, who sings the Chidambaram and erected a temple for Him Lord to sleep at Ekanta Seva, also a Mirasi, here. The deity is seen in a reclining posture is a direct descendant of the illustrious on Ananta or the mighty serpent. According saint Annamacharya of the 15th century. to one legend He is stated to have The preparation of the food offerings, and stationed Himself there to measure out the other items of Prasadams, falls to another money that pours into Tirupati Hundi and Mirasi of four gamekas. Provisions worth collect it as interest on the amount lent at Rs. 40,000 are bought daily by the peishkar, the time of the marriage of Lord about 40 tons of fire-wood is consumed Venkateswara. weekly, and 15,000 mud-pots are used per As is found in all south Indian temples, the month for preparing the food offering. The Pushkarini or the temple tank is on the side rice for the preparation called dosai is near the main entrance. It is believed a pounded by huge pestles operated by a bath in the Pushkarini washes away one’s sea-saw mechanism, with six men stamping sins. Papanasam, a water-fall a few miles up and down the lever arms. away from the main temple, also on the hills is celebrated for its purificatory potency, washing away the sins of bathers and even curing diseases. Water from Papanasam is brought daily by Mirasis for Abhishekam in the temple. “Mirasis” are priests whose privilege it is to perform the different rites in the temple routine, like cleaning the sanctum, preparing garlands, bringing water for abhishekam, preparing food for offerings, etc. These are held as hereditary rights by the Mirasis for generations. They perform

135 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA one day noticing the Abhisheka Teertham Sri Kalahasti and Vilva leaves, realised that some other beings were also there. Afraid that these may cause trouble to the Lord, he entwined himself round the Linga, determined to arely twenty miles from Tirupathi is protect it against any possible danger. When Kalahasti, a place of great sanctity, the elephant came with the usual Abhisheka Bfamous as Kailasagiri, the abode of Teertham, the furious serpent got into its Lord Siva on Earth. Kalahasti houses one trunk. Unable to bear the pain, the of the “Pancha Bhuta Lingas”, namely the elephant smashed its trunk over the Linga, “Vayu Linga”. The other four represent the crushing both the serpent and the spider other elements, viz. Prithvi, Appu, Tejas to death, itself dying from the poisonous and Akasa. The lamp inside the sanctum sting of the serpent on the spot. Lord Siva, keeps flickering in spite of the lack of any pleased with the intensity of their devotion circulation of air there, and stands as a granted salvation to all the three. confirmation of the belief that the Linga is a Vayu Linga. The Linga is white in colour The devotee who sacrificed his eyes and considered to be a Swayambhu or self- manifest Linga not carved out by human Another great Siva Bhakta, who has been hands. sung about in many a literary work and The spider, the serpent and the elephant who enriched the sanctity of this Kshetra This Kshetra is very ancient in its repute with his boundless devotion, is Timma or of sanctity, and it is found mentioned in , an illiterate tribal hunter of the the Skanda Purana. There are many legends forest. He was greatly devoted to the Lord connected with its origin, among which the and worshipped Him in his own simple, popular legend is about the Spider (Sri), rustic fashion, offering a part of the meat serpent (Kala) and the elephant (Hasti), he got by hunting every day before Him. A from which this holy centre seems to have brahmin priest, who was also greatly derived its name, Sri Kalahasti. It is said devoted to the Lord, was deeply grieved that in Krita Yuga, an elephant, a cobra by the appearance of raw flesh and bones and a spider worshipped the Swaymbhu in the sacred presence, and prayed and Linga that existed in this forest, under a begged the Lord to enlighten him as to Vilva tree. The spider used to weave a why He accepted these instead of web over the Linga to prevent the leaves punishing the person who offered such of trees falling over it. The elephant used things. The Lord at last appeared, and to perform Abhisheka by bringing water in asked him to stay behind the Vilva tree its trunk and spurting it over the Linga, the next day and see what would traverse. and the serpent used to spread its hood At the usual hour when Timmappa came, over the Linga and protect it from the sun. he was bewildered to see tears flowing The serpent was unaware of the spider incessantly from one of the eyes of the and the elephant worshipping the Lord, and Lord. Thinking that something went wrong

136 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA with His eye, Kannappa took his hunting fell off Mount Meru at three different places, knive, and unhesitatingly scooped out his one of them being Kalahasti. Hence the own eye and placed it in the place of the association of Kalahasti with Mount Meru. Lord’s eye. The tears at once stopped, It is also known as Kailasa Giri, the earthly but started flowing again from the other abode of Lord Siva and is comparable to one. Mount Kailas in the Himalayas in its sanctity Timmappa, with unswerving devotion and and sacred association with Lord Siva. love for the Lord, decided to offer his remaining eye to the Lord, but was hard Patala Vinayaka put to determine the location where he should offer his substitute eye, for once Kalahasti has two hills on either side of it, he removed his other eye he would be the one on the North with a temple of totally blind. So he marked the position of Durgamba and the one on the south with the eye of the Lord by placing his left foot a temple of Kannabeswara on top of it. Sri on it, and taking up the knife, was about Kalahastiswara temple is situated west of to scoop out his eye, when Lord Siva the Kalahasti hill. The temple has two huge appeared before him. Both the priest and and imposing entrance Gopurams and in Timmappa prostrated before the Lord, and the second courtyard of the temple is found sung his praises in great devotion, an underground cell, about thirty feet below entranced by the awe-inspiring presence, the level of the temple, where Lord and the Lord granted salvation to them Ganapathi is worshipped as Patala both. Timmappa was from then on known Vinayaka. as Kannappa, signifying that he was “the one who gave his eyes to the Lord”. The Out of legend into history Lord, pleased with his great devotion, also ordained that he shall remain by His side The origin of the temple dates back to for all time to come. In the temple at Puranic times, as it is mentioned in Skanda Kalahasti, the image of Kannappa is to be Purana, when Arjuna is said to have visited seen by the side of the Lord, and offerings this temple and worshipped Sri are first made to him and then only to the Kalahastiswaraswami. The historical Lord. There is also a separate temple on evidence of its origin is found in the works top of the hill, dedicated to Kannappa. of Nakkeerar, a celebrated Tamil Poet of the Third century. His description of A chip of the great Mount Meru Kalahasti as Southern Kailas, (Dakshina Kailasa), rendered in exquisite poetry, gives The hill where Kalahasti is located is known a detailed account of this Kshetra. as Mount Meru, though it is geographically The present temple is believed to have been situated far from Mount Meru. It is said built by the Pallava Kings and Tondaiman that once, due to an altercation between Chakravarti at a later date. The Chola Kings Adisesha (the king of serpents) and Vayu renovated it and constructed the main (the presiding deity of winds) three blocks temple.

137 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA The great ‘Gali Gopuram’ was built by the Linga resembles the five hoods of a Kulottunga Chola in the 11th century, and serpent. Just before the main shrine of Sri the outer prakaras and the four Gopuras Kalahastiswara is the idol of Kannappa, the at the four entrances were later added by great devotee of the Lord here. Sage Veera Narasimha Yadavaraya, in the 12th Kannappa who was a tribal hunter’ is an century A. D. The Mandapams inside were example of the power of devotion that lies built and improved upon by Krishna hidden in an ignorant and simple mind, He Devaraya of the Vijayanagar dynasty, and is greatly praised by the later generations an inscription shows that the hundred and is immortalised in the works of great pillared Mandapam was built by scholars and poets, and Sri Sankaracharya Krishnadevaraya in 1516 A.D. who established the four Sankara Peethas has also Other shrines and sacred sung the praises of Sage spots Kannappa in his Sivananda Lahari. The main temple premises begin The river Suvarna Mukhi with the Gali Gopuram, close to takes a northerly course which is a temple dedicated to at Kalahasti, its waters Kasi Viswanatha and Mother almost washing the Annapurana, making this place western wall of the as holy as the abode of Siva on temple. The images and the River Ganges. Upon entering bronze figures in the the prakara, one comes to a temples are very ancient temple dedicated to Bala and very beautiful. The Ganapathi, after which one sees temple architecture, the underground shrine of Patala polished and perfected Vinayaka. by three great dynasties, The two wells in the temple premises are Pallava, Chola and Vijayanagar, represents called Surya Pushkarini and Chandra the best of these. The temple stands Pushkarini, adjacent to which is the temple amidst picturesque surroundings, reflected dedicated to the Sun God. There are in the crystal waters of Suvarna Mukhi, temples dedicated to Lord Subrahmanya shining like a gem throwing off brilliant rays and “Sadyo Mukti Ganapathy”, situated of the glory of the Pallava, Chola and close to the western gate. Vijayanagar Kings. Owing to its great The main gate of the temple faces south, sanctity, considered as the abode of Lord and from this it can be deduced that Lord Siva on earth, this centre draws great Siva in this temple is worshipped as numbers of pilgrims from all over India, and . The presiding deity in the is one of the famous pilgrim centres of India. sanctum faces west and is in the shape of -Material drawn from Immortal India. an elephant trunk, with tusks on either side and a spider below. Viewed from above

138 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Some Select Shrines of milk on a black stone Linga of Lord Siva, thus emptying herself by the time she the Andhra Region returned to be milked. The Princess went the next day and saw the occurrence Sri Sailam herself, and that night Lord Siva appeared in her dream, telling her that the Linga in RI SAILAM, the abode of Lord the forest is a manifestation of Himself, Mallikarjunaswami, is situated in the and directed her to build a temple at the Sthick forests of Nalla Mala hills in spot, consecrating the Linga as Sri . Situated in the midst of Mallikarjunaswami. deep ravines and steep hills, this shrine shines in Divine brilliance on the southern And of the Chenchu bride bank of the sacred drawing to its bosom countless devotees from all Another legend connected with the origin over the country. of the Linga here states that once Lord Famous as Sri Sailam or Sri Parvatam, this Siva came down to the Sri Saila forests to shrine is sacred to the Hindus and Buddhists hunt, and there fell in love with a beautiful alike. The name of Sri Sailam rings hoary in tribal girl belonging to the tribe of the “Sankalpas” repeated at ritual baths. “Chenchus”. Thus he stayed on in this A mention of this Pilgrim Centre as a great forest to please his tribal wife. A bass relief “Punya Tirtha” is to be found in the Puranas in the temple beautifully depicts this story and other ancient books. in detail, and the Chenchus, to this day have free entry into the temple and are The legend of the Cow and the Linga even allowed to go into the sanctum. On the day of Maha Sivaratri, these Chenchus It is said that in very ancient times, a go inside the sanctum and perform Princess by name Chandravathi, daughter Abhishekam and Pooja, independent of the of the King of Chandra Gupta Patnam, had priests. This is in fact the only temple, taken up residence in this Sri Saila forest where devotees, irrespective of caste, due to a domestic calamity, and lived a life creed or sex, are allowed directly into the of isolation and austerity, forsaking all the sanctum, where they themselves may royal comforts. She had with her only a perform the Abhisheka or Pooja rituals. herdsman and a few cows whose milk, along The area in which the temple is built hardly with wild fruits, was the only means of measures 500 feet by 600 feet, and the sustenance for her. She happened to notice main temple is comparatively a small that one of the cows, a black one, was structure, built of stone. It is surrounded not yielding any milk. The herdsman was by a number of small shrines, with the shrine directed to observe it carefully and keep a of Bhramaramba on the west of the main watch over it, and he reported that the temple. Goddess Bhramaramba is cow was going to a secluded spot in the considered to be an incarnation of Kali, depths of the forest and showering all its and this shrine of Sri Sailam is one of the 139 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA eighteen most important Shakti shrines in cobra is carved as entwined round the India. breast of the Linga and is mounted on a beautiful pedestal. The sanctum and its environs Bass-reliefs and Buddhist influence The sanctum, enshrining Lord Mallikarjuna, is a small, cell-like structure, with a small One important feature of the Sri Sailam pillared-porch attached in front of it. The temple is the innumerable number of bass Mukha Mantapa in front of the main temple reliefs found here, which make up a is an exquisitely carved pillared hall, museum and a library, as well. These bass reflecting the glory of the Vijayanagar Kings. reliefs are a symbolic representation of the The most valuable and sacred object in legends connected with the temple, and the temple besides the Swayambhu Linga deal with these in great detail and serve is the bronze image of Nataraja, which is a the purpose of a carefully assembled record piece of exquisite craftsmanship and shines of facts. with such Divine beauty and grace that Buddhism has prevailed to a great measure devotees stand in front of it entranced in in the Krishna Delta of Andhra Pradesh, an inexpressible thrill. Between the main and its influence can be traced in the shrine and the eastern gate-way of the architecture of the temples in this locale, courtyard are two more exquisitely carved as well as in the catholicity of rituals and Mantapas, one of which contains the Nandi. worship observed in some of these temples. On the northern side of the temple, under Sri Parvatam as a sacred centre has been a Vata Vriksha is another small temple, described both by Fahian and Hieuntsang enshrining Lord Mallikarjuna. The Linga in in their works as a Buddhist centre in the this temple is considered to be the original Nagarjuna Konda range. Linga, upon which the black cow of Thus Sri Sailam stands as a very important Chandravathi was showering its milk. An Kshetra not only for Andhra Pradesh, but interesting feature of all the temples, be it for the whole of India, enshrining one of in north or south, is the presence of a the twelve Jyotir Lingas, and visited by Sthala Vriksha, an ancient tree rooted to great numbers of devotees from all over the spot and sanctifying it, and in all the India. It is very ancient in its tradition and legends mentioned the original deity is sanctity, and is referred to in the found worshipped under a tree, and a and the Puranas. This is temple gets built on the spot later on. On believed to be the hill upon which Lord Siva the northern side of the pillared Mukha had danced in ecstasy, and where Nandi Mantapa is another small shrine containing himself performed a penance and had been a carved stone Linga called the Sahasra graced with the darshan of the Divine Linga. The main Linga is divided into twenty couple. five facets, each of them having a “Upon this Sri Parvatam stays Lord Siva representation of forty Lingas, making a with his consort Parvathi, immersed in the thousand Lingas, in all. The three hooded delights of the Divine dance, worshipped

140 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA by Brahma and the other Gods, and a dip Nava , the Lord Narasimha in in the holy waters purifies one and washes the nine aspects of his super nature. him of his sins, liberating his entire line of At the foot of the hill is the shrine of relatives and granting salvation”. Prahlada Varada Narasimha, the Lord Sri Adi Sankara, who visited and resided blessing Prahlada, having shed his anger at Sri Sailam for some time, also composed after the destructive role of his divine beautiful verses praising Lord Mallikarjuna purpose. A mile and a half from this shrine in his Sivananda Lahari, and on is Chatravata Narasimha, who is found Bhramaramba in Bhramarambashtakam. under a peepal tree, surrounded by thorny bushes. Further on the way are the shrines Ahobilam of Karanja Narasimha and Yogananda Narasimha. It is believed that Lord The temple of Lord Narasimha at Ahobilam Narasimha, after killing Hiranya, took is famous for its sacred associations, and Prahlada as his disciple and taught him Yoga attracts a large number of pilgrims both . Hence he is found here in Yoga from the south as well as from the north. posture and is known as Yogananda Believed to be the actual spot where Vishnu Narasimha. in his incarnation of Narasimha appeared Upper Ahobilam is a plateau 2,800 feet from a pillar and killed the tyrant king above sea level. The two crests are called Hiranyakasipu, this holy kshetra is a pilgrim Veda Giri and Garuda Giri, through which centre of great importance. river Bhava Nasani flows. The river divides Even historically, this kshetra is of very itself into two and joins Penna and ancient origin, and inscriptions here show Kumudavati. This river is considered as an that the great of the western Antar Vahini, an underground stream during Chalukya Kings of (1076-1106 A.D.) a part of its course. On the southern slope worshipped the Moola Virat of this temple. of the hill the Lord is worshipped as Ugra It is said that when Lord Vishnu emerged Narasimha, in his terrible aspect. The temple from the pillar as Narasimha, terrible in his is a magnificent one with a huge Gopuram divine fury to behold, the gods and and Mantapa. goddesses from the heavens sang his praise Very near this is the shrine of Guha declaring Narasimha as the Supreme Lord, Narasimha, at the entrance of which is and from their expression of astonishment found a huge stone pillar, believed to be is the name, “ Ahobilam” derived. the one from which the Lord emerged to kill Hiranya. A furlong or two from this shrine Nava Narasimhas is the shrine of Lord Krodha Narasimha, where He is worshipped in the form of a The hill track leading to the main temple boar. Two miles from here is the shrine of meanders through picturesque valleys. Malola Narasimha, where the Lord, having Through the length of the six miles of this shed his fury, is seen in a sublimely tranquil track there are shrines dedicated to the form as Santa Moorthy, delighting himself with his consort Lakshmi. Higher up is the

141 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA shrine of Jwala Narasimha, and this spot is Narasimhas of Yadgiri considered to be the one, where the Lord at the height of his fury, tore the entrails Yada Giri or Yada Giri Gutta is another of Hiranya, and nearby is the temple of centre dedicated to Lord Narasimha. This Pavana Narasirnha. Thus on this sacred town is situated in Nalgonda district, and hill, all the nine aspects of the Lord, in the the shrine here is becoming increasingly form of nine Narasimhas are manifested for popular. The deity here is believed to be a the devotee’s worship. “ Deivam”, like that of Tirupathi The Lord in the upper Ahobilam shrine is and . considered Swayambhu or self-manifest. Yada Giri or Yadgiri derives its name from a There are a number of holy Tirthas around Sage called Yad Rishi, who sat here in deep this shrine, the most important of which is tapasya in the heart of the forest region, Rakta Kundam, whose waters are red. It is intent on having a vision of the Lord as believed that the Lord, after killing Hiranya Jwala Narasimha. Kasipu, washed his hands in this tank. So deep was his devotion and so one- Ahobilam is also associated with the pointed his concentration that the Lord at Chenchus, (hill tribes of the area), and it last appeared before him, and, upon his is believed that when Lord Vishnu took the entreaties, granted him the delight of a form of Narasimha and came down here, vision of His in his three glorious aspects, Lakshmi, unable to bear the separation as Jwala Narasimha, Ganda-bheranda incarnated herself as a tribal girl, Ananda Narasimha and Yogananda Chencheeta. It is with her that Lord Narasimha. But Yad Rishi, unable to content Narasimha fell in love and got married to himself with only a fleeting glance of these her and they stayed on in Ahobilam glorious forms beseeched the lord to stay thereafter, bewitched by its scenic beauty. there forever. The Lord responded This love lore of Lord Narasimha and graciously to this appeal and took his Chencheeta is the theme of many beautiful permanent abode on this hill. Thus this poems, folk songs and dance dramas place came to be known as Yad Giri. current in . In course of time this place turned into a In a famous Narasimha Anushtup, the nine dense forest and became inaccessible to forms of Narasimha are described, and this people. Once, an officer in a village near Anushtup is adopted for being etched the foot-hills was graced with a glimpse of before charging any with divine the Lord in his dream, and was appraised power. The Upanishads, the Divya of the presence of the three icons in the Prabandhas and the Gita, all proclaim the forest. He went to the spot indicated in greatness of the Narasimha Mantra, and the dream the next morning with some of the Narasimha Kshetras. Ahobilam is villagers and found the images there under considered the most sacred among them. a huge rock, which they resuscitated and consecrated in a shrine, arranging for regular worship and rituals to be performed.

142 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA The temple is situated on top of a hill 300 as “Mangala Mayam” or holy and auspicious, feet high. Very near the entrance of the and hence the name Mangala Giri. A mention temple is a shrine for Hanuman, and just of this holy hill is found in the Brahrna beneath the Hanuman image is a deep Vaivarta Purana and the origin of the crevice in the rock of about 10 inches in presiding Deity, “Panakala Narasimhaswami” width and 60 square feet in area. This gap is traced to Krita Yuga in the legend (Sthala is believed to be the spot where Lord Purana) concerning the temple. It is said arasimha appeared to Yad Rishi as that in Krita Yuga, a King by name Pariyatra Gandabherunda Ananda Narasimha. begot a son called Hrusva Sringi, who had The main shrine is built around what is a number of deformities. actually a cave, which serves as the To get rid of his deformities Hrusva Sringi sanctum. This cave is about 30 feet in came to this place and began a penance length and 12 feet in width, cut into a hill. to propitiate Lord Vishnu. His father, who At the end of this cave are the other two resented his son deserting the Royal forms of Lord Narasimha. An icon of the pleasures and losing himself in spiritual Lord is considered as Jwala contemplation, came over and tried to call Narasimhaswami, and it is believed that to him back home. Unable to thwart his this day a divine serpent visits their place father’s efforts Hrusva Sringi turned himself and moves about the image. On the rock into an elephant, later becoming this hill opposite to this is the icon of the Lord in Mangala Giri, and entreated the Lord to the aspect of deep meditation, worshipped make this his abode. The Lord, pleased with as Yogananda Narasimha. the depth of the devotion that made him There is a Chakra on top of the temple offer his own body for His seat, came down Vimana, which is considered to be of mystic and made the hill His abode. value and power. This Chakra shines with a divine glow in darkness, and sometimes Panakam offering turns on its own accord, though it is not possible to turn it by any human effort. It is said that the offerings made to the The ceiling of the main shrine is filled with Lord were Honey in the Krita Yuga, Ghee in votive offerings in the form of coconuts, Dwapara, Milk in Treta Yuga, and Jaggery full and unbroken, which remain fresh for water (panakam) now in Kali Yuga. From months together. this form of worship the presiding deity here has come to be known as “Panakala Lord Narasimha of Mangala Giri Narasimha Swami”, and jaggery water continues to be the offering to the Lord Mangala Giri is a shrine situated on top of now, the Kali Yuga age. A very interesting a small hill, a few miles away from Bezwada and mysterious feature of this shrine which or , an important railway endows this pilgrim centre with a vivid, junction in Andhra Pradesh. The hill is a ocular demonstration of the presence of part of the Eastern Ghats and is in the Divinity is that the Deity accepts precisely shape of an elephant. The hill is considered half the quantity of the “Panakam” or

143 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA jaggery water offered and gorgles out the Vijayeswara and Malleswara shrines other half as “Prasadam”. Down Hill, vessels of various sizes containing the sweet liquid Besides the , the are offered for varying prices, which the shrines of Vijayeswara and Malleswara are devotees buy and carry up the hill or have also held sacred for their association with them carried if the size of the vessels is the Mahabharata. In the range of the hills too big. But whatever the size of the surrounding the Kanaka Durga hill, there is vessel, when the liquid is poured into the a hill called Indra Kila, which is the famous mouth of the Lord’s form as carved into hill mentioned in the Mahabharata, on top the trunk of a tree around which a of which Arjuna performed penance to Lord mantapam is built, the Lord accepts only Siva. During his stay on the hill, Arjuna half and returns the rest. The Mantapa is once hit a wild boar, and when he went to covered with a thick coat of jaggery as the place where the boar fell he found to the water constantly pours out on it and his surprise, two arrows sticking out from dries, and yet not a single ant is found its side. A tribal hunter, who also arrived anywhere near it ! on the scene just then, claimed that he These features have made this a pilgrim hit it first. From arguments the claimants centre of great popularity. This is one of came to blows, fighting with each other, the eight great Kshetras of India and is and Arjuna little realised that the tribal visited by a large number of pilgrims from hunter was none other than Lord Siva. all corners of the country. Finding the hunter to be too powerful for him to cope with, Arjuna prepared a Linga Vijayawada Goddess Kanaka Durga with the earth and worshipped it then and there in order to acquire additional strength Vijayawada or Vijayavada, as mentioned and power from Siva. When he saw the in some ancient scripts, houses a famous flowers offered to the Linga being showered shrine of Shakti in the form of Kanaka automatically on the hunter, Arjuna realised Durga. Though the image is believed to be that the hunter was none other than the self manifested, the temple itself appears Lord, and offering Him his obeisance prayed to have been of recent origin. Situated on for his grace. The Lord appearing in all the top of the Kanaka Durga Hill, Goddess glory of his real form granted the mighty Kanaka Durga is considered a Pratyaksha weapon, the famous Pasupatastra to Arjuna Deivam, the impact of whose presence is and blessed him. The Linga in the sanctum felt by the way the Divine fulfils the desires is believed to have been consecrated at of her devotees and wards off their this spot within a temple by Arjuna, and troubles. Like Tirupathi and Annavaram, this hence it is considered a doubly sacred one. shrine is also a famous pilgrim centre in It is said that in the Saka year 117 a King the Andhra region and devotees pour in, in by name Madhava Varma ruled here. He large numbers to fulfil their vows. was an incarnation of righteousness and justice. Once his son accidentally killed the child of a poor woman, who complained to

144 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA the King of the incident in great distress. Shrines on the The king immediately ordered his own son to be hanged in order to meet the ends of Banks of Godavari justice. Lord Siva as Mallikeswara, pleased by the King’s upright sense of justice, appeared before him, and brought back to HE river Godavari meanders through life both the Prince and the child. Thus is the State of Andhra Pradesh, Lord Mallikeswara worshipped here. Tenriching the soil and the lives of the people on her banks with her sacred Simhachalam waters. Like a mother she deludes them when she is angry, and yet feeds them to Another famous Narasimha Kshetra in the full. Godavari is a river of sanctity, one Andhra Pradesh is Simhachalam near Vizag of the famous Tirthas mentioned in the city, which attracts a large number of Puranas. Her entire course is glorified and pilgrims who pour in to fulfil the vows made sanctified by the presence of holy places to the Lord, whose help they sought in on either bank. times of distress. Like Tirupathi, this is another centre where devotees make a votive offering of their hair. The legend in connection with the temple Bhadrachalam, situated on the banks of states that Prahlada, the great child- this sacred river is one of the most famous devotee of the Lord, was thrown here into Rama Kshetras of our land. Ramayana, the sea by by his father who also turned known as the “Adi Kavya”, is not a mere the hill on him so that he may be crushed myth, but scripture itself to the Hindus. to death. Lord Vishnu came to Prahlada’s Rama is the deity dear and beloved to our rescue, enabling him to escape by tilting hearts, as an embodiment of justice and the mountain slightly, and it is said Prahlada righteousness and termed as “Santa constructed this shrine here to Murthy” and “Karunamaya Murthy” as commemorate the Lord’s act of grace. The opposed to the quality of “Ugra” (Anger) presiding Deity is Lord Vishnu in his found in so many other deities. And it is incarnation of Narasimha. The icon is the sacred association of Bhadrachalam covered with a thick paste of sandal with God Rama, which has made it the throughout the year, since Lord Narasimha famous Tirtha as it is. is considered an Ugra Devata. Once in a year, on the day of the star Vaisakha in It is said that once the Lord Sri May, the coat of sandal wood is removed Ramachandra, during his fourteen years and a fresh coating applied. This ritual, sojourn in the forests, took rest on this called “Chandanotsavam” attracts a large hill, Bhadra Giri. She rested them with her number of pilgrims. cool fragrant breezes, refreshed them with her fruits and crystal waters and

145 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA entertained them with her beautiful sights and standing in the Tribhangi (Triangular, thrilling with the sweet notes of birds. or with three bends) posture as different Rama, pleased by her attentions gave her from the normal Samabhanga posture. Sita the boon that she would become and is on his left, also in Tribhanga attitude, remain famous through all the ages. He holding a lotus in one hand and the other asked her to take birth as the son of Meru, hand showing” Katya-valambita Mudra”. on the banks of river Gautami. This son of This is one of those temples, where Meru was known as Bhadra and he devotees are captivated by the sheer performed a great penance for Lord Vishnu. beauty of the icon of the Lord. The beauty The heat emanating from Bhadra’s of the image itself does not appear to be passionate penance started scorching the the result of mere sculptural excellence, three worlds and the Rishis and Suras but a beauty infused with an original approached Vishnu, begging him to appease divinity, and spells out a magical charm Bhadra. Vishnu came down to appear before that ties down the devotees hearts to Bhadra in such a hurry that he picked up Bhadrachalam even after they have left his Sankha and Chakra from left to right, the place. against the norm. The image of Lord Rama The temple itself is a sturdy construction in Bhadrachalam is seen holding the Sankha that does not display any great and Chakra in this manner. Another architectural splendour. The main Sikhara explanation given to this unusual placing is surrounded by 24 statuettes and the of Sankha-Chakra is that after Vishnu entire temple is enclosed by a compound defeated all the Asuras, he no longer wall said to be constructed by Saint considered the Chakra as of supreme Ramdas. The temple also does not claim importance and hence shifted its position. any Sthalapurana showing that it was The Lord in the sanctum of the constructed originally by some rishi or divine Bhadrachalam temple is known as Vaikuntha being. In fact, this is a temple that claims Rama and Ramanarayana. It is said that the fact of Manushya Pratishta, or being the stone on which Bhadra stood and consecrated by a human being, and the performed penance has been carved into local legends trace the birth of this temple the images in the sanctum. Lord Rama’s to a mendicant who came here from image here is a unique one as it has four Ayodhya and stayed on the small hillock arms and is seen holding Sankha that overlooks the beautiful Godavari. It is in addition to bow and arrow. He has Sita stated that it was he who carved the to his left and Lakshmana to his right, and images and consecrated them in a small stands gracefully in the middle, bestowing temple on the hillock. But today his kind, benevolent gaze upon his Bhadrachalam is one of the most famous devotees. The images are extremely Ramakshetras, comparable to Ayodhya and beautiful sculptures with rare delicacy of Rameswaram in sanctity, and attracts a workmanship. Sri Rama’s image represents great number of pilgrims from all over India an exceedingly handsome person, with a despite its inaccessibility. fine physique, holding the Dhanus and Bana

146 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Bhadrachalam is also popular for its renovation work of the Ramalayam. He was association with the two great Rama- imprisoned by Tanashah for misappropriation bhaktas, Saint Ramdas and Saint . It and was in jail for twelve years. During is the one temple that has constantly been these arduous years, Ramadas never gave the recipient of Muslim patronage. up his Lord, and spent all his time in singing of Him, thus oblivious of the external Ramadas, the Bhakta suffering he was subjected to. It is said that after twelve years, Lord Rama himself Ramdas, whose original name was Gopanna came to Tanasha, in the form of a young was a Tahasildar in the court of Tanashah, lad, and He and Lakshmana paid 6 lakhs in the last nawab of the Kutub Shahi line. He the form of gold coins tied in six bags and once spent six lakhs of rupees from the took a receipt from Tanasha, thus releasing State Revenue on the construction and Ramdas from his debt to the State. When Tanasha realised that it was the Lord Himself who paid the money to release his devotee, he was overwhelmed. He then released Ramadas from jail and honoured him and allowed him to carry on his devotional work for the rest of his life. Tanasha himself patronised the temple and bestowed great deal of money and gifts on it and also had gold coins resembling the ones Sri Rama gave him minted for circulation.

Kabirdas It is said that originally the idol of Rama lay hidden, in the forests of Bhadrachalam, and one Dammakka dreamt of the presence of the Lord, and going to the place next morning found the idols. She had a temple erected there and consecrated the idols.

147 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Sometime later, Ramdas, then known as descending down to Godavari. Her waves Gopanna, paid a visit to his uncle Akkanna lap upon the shores, as though she was employed at the court of Tanasha, and washing the feet of the Lord in devotion. went to the Bhadrachalam temple. At that The journey to the temple leaves one under time Kabirdas, the great Muslim saint, also the magic spell of Lord Rama, whose abode paid a visit to the temple, but was denied here is reached through a narrow path entry to the sanctum. He was greatly trekking through the Dandakaranya forest distressed over this, and the deity in the which had been His abode during his exile. sanctum suddenly disappeared. Gopanna The soil and surroundings vibrate with the who was watching this realised that barriers divine presence of the Lord who once rested of caste and religion do not exist in the on the lap of the earth here, and the realm of the Almighty and that He loves all pilgrims who pass through this forest are His children alike and thus cannot stand infused with an inexplicable thrill as they anyone of them being in distress. He then walk upon the very soil which had been and there became a disciple of Saint Kabir trodden on by the tender feet of Rama and pleaded with the priest to let Kabir and Sita. enter the temple. When Kabir entered the sanctum the images re-appeared. Gopanna Annavaram thereafter became a great follower of Kabir and took the name of Ramadas, servant of The temple of Sri Satya Narayana Swamy Lord Rama. on the banks of river Godavari is a pilgrim After Ramadas, his successor by name Timu centre of growing importance. The temple Lakshmi Narasimha Rao carried on the itself is of recent origin and does not show religious work and had a temple for Sri any association with any ancient legend. Ranganathaswami built on the banks of But Annavaram town is becoming more and Godavari. This temple was completed when more important because of the popularity a merchant brought two lakhs and gave of Sri Satyanarayanaswamy, the presiding the money for its construction work, and deity of the temple here, who like Lord it is also closely associated with Tanashah. Venkateswara of Tirupathi is believed to This temple was under the supervision of offer relief to the devotees in their distress the Asaf Shahi dynasty which granted an if they pray and undertake oaths. allowance for its maintenance, and the Annavaram is indeed considered a second temple was the recipient of Rs. 20,000 from Tirupathi in Andhra Pradesh. the treasury of the Nizam of . The temple stands on a small hill, and the Thus has this temple been the true abode distance from the foot hill to the temple of the Lord who is beyond all the on top is about half a mile. The sacred meaningless bars of caste and creed and river Pampa is flowing by this hill and pilgrims religion, patronized by the Muslim kings and take a dip in this river before going up to worshipped by countless devotees from all the temple. There is a “Yantra” established corners. It stands on the slightly elevated in this temple, the like of which is not found hillock of Bhadragiri, its forty steps anywhere else in India. Based on Tripad

148 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Vibhuti Narayana Upanishad, which is a part facilitate the performance of the Vratam of the Devarshi Sakha of the Atharva Veda, by a number of people simultaneously. Like the Yantra is consecrated in the lower part Tirupathi, this place has ample of the sanctum while the Mula Vigrahas arrangements for the comfort of the pilgrims are consecrated in the upper part. The and the annual revenue is constantly on Garbha Griha or sanctum has four entrances the increase, owing to the growing and in the centre of it is a Tripeetha. On popularity of this shrine. top of these tripeethas, over the Meru portion, the Beejakshara of the yantra is - the Yajna Vatika of etched in the stone. At the apex which forms the Bindu a monolithic pillar is constructed and on top The temple at Draksharama in East of this pillar are the Mula Vigrahas, with Godavari district is dedicated to Lord Shiva the icon of the Lord in the centre and a as Bhimeswaraswami. Draksharama is a Siva Linga to the left and the goddess to corrupt form of Daksharama, or the Yajna the right. The images are very gracefully Vatika where Dakshaprajapati performed his carved and display great beauty. Yajna. The sthala puranas here state that The main temple is constructed in the form Dakshayani, daughter of Daksha married of a chariot with four wheels in the four Lord Shiva against her father’s wish and corners. Agni Purana states that the Akriti Daksha ignored them when he performed (appearance or outline) of any temple is the Yajna. Dakshayani was distressed and the manifestation of Prakriti (Nature.) The furious at her father’s treatment, yet could entire Silpa Sastra is based on the principle not suppress her desire to go and witness that the architecture and sculpture of a so famous a Yagna. Hence she attended it temple, the construction of the walls as uninvited, which added to the pride of well as the Vimana should be such that Daksha who, thinking that his Yajna the devotee, when he enters the temple, attracted the spouse of lord Shiva Himself should be reminded of the universe and despite the lack of invitation. He ignored nature with the deity in the sanctum as Dakshayani completely, blinded by this the nucleus of it all, the supreme spirit pride, and Dakshayani sacrificed herself in from which all other things emerge. the Homa Kundam, unable to bear the Accordingly, the chariot shaped temple at insult. Lord Shiva burned with anger when Annavaram represents the seven worlds he heard it, and from the sweat on his beneath and the seven worlds above the body was born Veerabhadra, who destroyed lord at the centre in the Garbhalaya. Daksha and avenged the death of Large numbers of devotees pour into this Dakshayani. On this Yajna Vatika was later sacred centre to fulfil their vows, the most constructed a temple consecrated to Lord important of them being the performance Shiva. To this day no Yajna or sacrificial of the Satyanarayana Vratam, in the rite is performed on the soil of Draksharama premises of the temple. A huge Vrata Sala or around it for fear of rousing Lord Shiva’s is constructed by the Devasthanam to anger.

149 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Another legend associated with the sanctity and with an octagonal type is a good of the temple states that Kumara Swami, specimen of the Dravidian type of designated by Lord Shiva to destroy the architecture. The western Gopura rises to evil power of Taraka, broke the Linga that seven stories and is a piece of great Taraka carried in his throat, thereby beauty, that throws out the rays of Chola destroying his power and ultimately killed glory from its core. Draksharama is perhaps Taraka. Pieces of the Linga thus broken by the one and only temple, too, where we Kumara fell at different places making all find a clue to the way ancient architecture these places highly sacred. These places had been planned and executed. Here is are the five aramas, Draksharama, found a small temple, carved out of a single Amararama (Amravati) Bheemarama stone, which is a perfect replica of the (Bheemavaram in dt.), main temple. This small temple must have (Kotipalle), and Ksheerarama served as the model for the construction (). of the main temple. Historical analysis, however, leads us to guess that this temple was originally a The blend of the Hindu and the Muslim Baudha later converted for Hindu worship. The Mula Virat as in the case of This place is sacred to people of all Amareswara is considered to be an Ayaka religions. There is a tomb here of the Muslim Sthambha. Many Architectural details of saint Saiyad Shah Bhazi Aulia, with a the temple can be traced to Buddhist style mosque attached to it. This saint is said of sculpture. The Ayaka are a to have lived about 500 years ago in characteristic of the Andhra style . Arabia, and came to Draksharama while and historical evidence shows that undertaking a pilgrimage. He and his Buddhism flourished in these parts of disciples were hungry, and slaughtered the Andhra, with universities at and temple bull and ate it. A dispute ensued Nagarjuna Konda. It is probable then that between the Hindus of the place and the these Chaityas, when Buddhism declined, Muslim saint, and the head of the local have been claimed for worship by the Saivite mutt was called to challenge the Hindus and converted into Hindu temples. Muslim Saint. A Shiva Linga was thrown The sanctity of the place, however, will into the tank and the two were asked to always retain its supreme glory, no matter bring it out by the pull of their devotion. how to be differences concocted by human Upon this, the Muslim saint prayed with mind interpret it, and both as a Buddhist such depth and sincerity to the All Powerful Chaitya and a Shiva temple the glory of that Shiva was greatly pleased and acceded Draksharama will always be the light divine to this request. Thereafter the Muslim Saint to all devotees. The temple is a blend of occupied the Mutt with his disciples and the Chola and Chalukya architecture lived in Draksharama, converting the Mutt reflecting the glory of both by the wealth into a mosque. His descendants are said of sculptural beauty. The Vimana over the to be still living at Draksharama. main Garbha Griha with its horizontal motif,

150 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA This religious place, formerly called Taksha She was the wife of his own Guru, and a Tapovanam, or Taksha Vatika, said to be very pious woman. Since even to entertain founded by Veda Vyasa, is an important an evil intent towards one’s Gurupatni is a centre of great sanctity in the Godavari very great offence, the king fell a victim tract of Andhra. The temple is a standing immediately to the result of such a sin, specimen of a catholic admixture of many and contracted a horrible disease of the schools of temple architecture. In the skin. He realised his folly and prayed to wealth of its epigraphical details and the Lord Vishnu who appeared before him and divine glory of this place Draksharama is directed him to bathe in the waters of perhaps unrivalled in these parts, glorified Godavari at Kotithirtham and pray to Lord as Dakshina Kasi or Benaras of the South. Siddheswara there. The King, upon performing this, was cured of his disease. Kotipalle Such is the sanctity of mother Godavari and Lord Someswara here, and to this day Kotipalle in the of the sufferer and the devoted alike pour Andhra Pradesh is situated on the banks into this punya Tirtham to wash away their of Godavari at the point where she meets sins and sufferings. This place is also called the sea. The temple here is dedicated to Kumararama, one of the five aramas, where Sri Someswaraswamy and his consort the pieces of the Shivalinga broken by Lord Rajarajeswari Devi. This Tirtham is Kumaraswamy during his fight with Taraka considered very sacred and from time fell, thus making this place a very ancient immemorial it is believed that a bath at and sacred Kshetra. this spot is a cure for diseases of all kinds Kotipalle thus is an ancient Kshetra of great particularly those pertaining to the skin. value and its temples are also very ancient. Time and again we find mention in the Cradled in the lap of mother Nature at her Puranas and scriptures where someone very best, Kotipalle is situated amidst afflicted with leprosy or some other disease exquisitely beautiful surroundings and of the kind being advised by the sages to attracts large numbers of people to its take a dip in the sacred Godavari at bosom, both due to its sanctity and its Kotithirtham and pray to the Lord beauty. Mahasivaratri is celebrated in great Siddheswara there to be rid of their sins splendour here and on this day large and the diseases. One such story is told numbers of pilgrims pour in to take a dip in of the King Sudharka, whose queen once the river Godavari and worship Lord performed a great Vrata in honour of Someswara and thus sanctify their lives. Goddess Lakshmi in the month of Aswayuja. All the Sumangalis of his kingdom attended -Material drawn from Temples and this function and the king and queen legends of Andhra bestowed valuable gifts upon them and received their blessings. The king was attracted towards one of the ladies and made overtures to her.

151 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA The Undying Glory Kumararama (Kotipalle) in East Godavari Dt., and these five places have since then been of an Undying City considered sacred as the abodes of Lord Satya Siva. The temple is situated in beautiful surroundings on the banks of River Krishna, Amaravati at a point where it takes a north-south course, while the main river follows an HE “Amar” city, that knows no death, east-to-west course. The architecture of was the glorious capital of the the temple is Dravidian in style, and inside TSatavahana Kings, where Buddhism the Garbha Griha is a tall Linga of 15 ft. and Hinduism flourished in harmonious co- carved out of marble. It is believed that existence. The Satavahana kings with their the temple was originally a Buddhist shrine great love of art, have made this capital and several parts of the temple stand proof of theirs, then known as Dhanyakota, a to this conviction where Buddhist treasure house of fine arts. The wealth of architecture is highly noticeable. The art and sculpture has endeared this city Mulavirat is a 15 ft. high Linga in Marble, to the hearts of many poets who resembling the Akaya stambha of Buddhist immortalised her in their poems. temples. The foundation is laid in typically The temple that has made Amaravati a Buddhist design and in marble. In the pilgrim centre today is the temple of sanctum, above the deity, is found a large Amareswara. medallion carved out in the shape of a lotus The legend related to the inception of the and is carved in the characteristic pattern Linga in the sanctum refers to the evil of Buddhist sculpture. The temple of power called Tarakasura. He was a very Amareswara and Amravati are very ancient powerful one to deal with, being a Siva and a description of these is found in the Bhakta and having a Linga in his throat. Skanda Purana. Hence Indra prayed to Lord Shiva himself, begging him to destroy Taraka who was Both a Hindu and Buddhist Centre harassing the three worlds. Lord Shiva sent his son Kumara to destroy the Linga in the This place is popular in its sanctity as both throat of Tarakasura. Pieces of the Linga a Hindu pilgrim centre as well as a Buddhist fell at different spots, the biggest on the centre. A university is believed to have banks of river Krishna, where it began to been established here by the Buddhist grow. Indra and other Deva Ganas came monks and excavations here and in down to this place and worshipped this Nagarjuna Konda have revealed ruins of Linga, thus making this place a second what must have been a great city revealing Amaravati, capital of Indra. Four other dominant features of pieces fell respectively at Bheemarama in and . The university was comparable , Ksheerarama in Palakollu in to Nalanda and Kasi in its wealth of West Godavari, Draksharama and knowledge, much the same as the place itself is comparable to Benaras as the abode

152 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA of Lord Siva. A dip in the River Krishna here is as meritorious as a dip in the Ganges. The main festival here is the Maha Sivaratri festival and to witness this pilgrims pour in from all corners in large numbers. The beauty of sculpture here has established a tradition by itself, and the workmanship of the sculptures depicting scenes from the life of the Buddha here is unexcelled.

When Satya Sai Baba is on the scene, all eyes are turned on him, all attention focussed on what he says and does, as he gently moves among the devotees, giving a word of comfort and hope here, showing a gesture of reassurance there and waving now and then some Divine The Miracle Sage of “Prasadam” into being by a miracle out of Prasanti Nilayam nowhere, as it were. Satya Sai Baba is not just a Sage demonstrating his Divinity merely through n the village of Puttaparti in the miracles. He is not only a friend and guide district of Satya Sai Baba but a Philosopher as well. He has a has established the “Abode of Supreme I message to deliver. His teachings are part Peace”. It is said that some seven hundred of that Sanatana Dharma, the Eternal people live there permanently, breathing Religion which has been the pride of India’s the never failing atmosphere of sublime timeless glory and her inheritance through Peace, while hundreds of seekers, devotees scripture, epic and legend. and visitors keep constantly arriving and Says Sri Satya Sai Baba : “The vehicle of leaving. Putta Parti has become a veritable human life is drawn on two wheels by the centre of pilgrimage. senses, which are driven by , with and as the reins, the two

153 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA wheels being Kala Chakra and the Karma Linga with many grotesque depressions. As Chakra. The spokes of the wheel are the the Linga is made of sacred Saligrama rules of Dharma bound by the rim of Prema. stones, it is held in veneration by The Self is the Rider and he will not come Vaishnavas, too. All the devotees are at to harm if the axle is Satya and the goal is liberty to touch the Linga to the Shanti.” satisfaction of their heart. A massive monolithic Nandi is found kneeling before the Linga.

Mahanandi B. RADHAKRISHNA RAO

Setting

LOTHED in the scenic splendour of extensive ever-green jungles, the CNallamalai ranges in the Deccan plateau across the Kurnool District, presents an exhilarating sight. Cradled in a tranquil atmosphere, Nallamalai range abounds in many sacred spots like Ahobilam, and Tirupati. Served by a number of Tirthas and sanctified by the presence of all the nine aspects of Nandi “Mahanandi” is a holy place dedicated to Lord Shiva-situated in the Nallamalai ranges. Lying in a natural gorge of gorgeous beauty, Mahanandi is ten miles from .

Style of Temple

Standing at the foot of a hill, the Shiva Legendary Background Shrine here embodies the fascinating aspects of Nagari style. On account of its The legend about the origin of the shrine having a soaring spire, it looks like a Jain says that once Nanda, the ruler of temple from far away. The Vimana of the Navanandi territory in which Mahanandi is temple is known to have been erected by situated, wanted to perform Abhishekam a Rasasiddha (Alchemist) from Kashmir. The in milk to his tutelar deity. So he had herds presiding deity of Mahanandi is a colossal of cows brought from various places. 154 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA A black cow among a herd used to give The Five Sacred Springs large quantity of milk, but in course of time it was discovered that it was yielding less The Tirthas flowing in and around the and less milk. The curious cowherds with temple are well known for their curative the intention of knowing the reason for powers. The main Tirtha is seen flowing in diminishing supply of milk followed the cow front of the temple. The depth of the water to the forest. is always kept at 5 feet so that the pilgrims They found that - standing right over an can have an easy dip. There are five ant hill, the cow was pouring its milk into springs, from out of which the Tirtha is an ant hill, where Sri Krishna in the form of supplied with water. They are known as a child used to give Darshan to the cow. Sri Sailadhara, Narasimhadhara, The cowherds appraised the king of this Daivodhinidhara, Nandithirtha and Kailasa strange happening. The king realised that Tirtha. As Nandi conducted here his severe the child is none other than the lord. Next penance and pleased Lord Shiva, who day the king also followed the cow to the converted Nandi into his vehicle, the place forest and with the desire of getting the came to be called Mahanandi. Most of the Darsana of Lord, he sat there in meditation. temples dedicated to Nandi found here As usual, the child accepted the offering were constructed by the rulers of Nanda of the cow. Meanwhile, the king in utter dynasty. The image of the Goddess is consternation trampled upon some leaves, enshrined by the side of the main shrine which disturbed the cow, making it tread with a Sri Chakra in front of her, said to the ant-hill. Soon the child disappeared have been installed by Adi Shankara. and the impression of the cow’s hoof was left on the ant-hill. The Nine Lingas Feeling that he had committed a sin against God, the king prayed for pardon. The lord, Within the radius of ten miles of Mahanandi pleased with the devotion of the King, had there are as many as nine temples, all of the ant hill transformed into a Linga. The which are dedicated to Nandi in his nine two signs found on the Linga are said to aspects. The nine Nandis are: (1) Padma be the imprint of cow’s hoof. Nandi (2) Naga Nandi (3) Vinayaka Nandi (4) Garuda Nandi (5) Brahma Nandi (6) Royal Patronage Surya Nandi (7) Vishnu Nandi (8) Soma The Vijayanagaram rulers used to patronise Nandi and (9) Shiva Nandi. As in the other the temple with generous donations. During shrines of Shiva, “Shivaratri” is the most the 17th and 18th centuries Mahanandi important festival of Mahanandi. Most of was a part of Kurnool Circars, over which the pilgrims who throng Srisailam on the the Nawab of Kurnool exercised his sway. occasion of Shivaratri do not fail to visit During Shivaratri festival, the Nawab used Mahanandi. to grant lavish sums of money from his By Courtesy of B. Radhakrishna Rao, treasury towards the expenditure of the celebration.

155 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA

Sri Kurmam

RI Kurmam, situated in the district of Andhra S Pradesh enshrines Lord Vishnu in “ Avatara” (Kurma means tortoise). This ancient temple in this village is regarded as a very sacred one and of rare distinction, as it is one of the few temples that enshrine Lord Vishnu in Kurma Avatara. The temple displays a Chola style of architecture and one can infer that the original temple, having suffered the ravages of time, had to be renovated several times, the latest of the renovations being in the Chola period. The temple has a beautiful, pillared Mandapam, carved with great skill. Some of the granite sculptures in the temple display an extra-ordinary degree of sculptural skill and beauty. The prakara of the temple, however, reveals a different architectural style, and hence, must belong to a later date.

Arasa Villi

Man’s first idea of God must have been inspired by a sense of awe at the mysterious powers of nature. He was afraid of these powers, for the way in which they manifested themselves was beyond his comprehension and control. This deep sense of awe made him worship the powers of nature and natural phenomena. Thus, worship of the Sun and Moon had been a common feature of the early religious life of man. To this day there exist relics of the oldest ways of religion and worship in the Sun temples of India. Arasa Villi, very close to Srikakulam in Andhra

156 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Pradesh is one of the few places where a Surya. Narayana Murthy, as advised. After shrine had been built and dedicated to the a bath in the temple tank, he would Sun God. The deity as Surya Narayana circumambulate the shrine one hundred and Murthy, is worshipped by a large number eight times every day. At the completion of devotees who pour into this township. of the forty days’ period of un-interrupted Legends take the temple’s origins to Vedic worship, he was cured of his disease, and times, narrating the story of Indra’s fall he returned to his native village where he from the Celestial region and the vision he got married and became the father of a had of Surya Narayana, which provided him family. He visits the Sun temple every year, the inspiration to establish a shrine and worships the Lord, with his heart filled dedicated to the Sun God. with gratitude and devotion. The icon of Lord Surya Narayana in the The Buddhists worship the Sun God in the sanctum is an exceedingly beautiful one. form of Marichi. Marichi is depicted with Carved out of black granite, the Lord is three faces, symbolising the three parts depicted as riding (with a Lotus in each of the day, namely, morning, noon and hand), his mighty chariot drawn by the evening. He is seen riding a chariot drawn seven horses, which were driven by his by seven boars, driven by a Goddess legless charioteer, Anoora. This image without legs. This representation of Marichi conforms to the principles of Viswa Karma bears a striking resemblance to the Silpa as laid down in the Agama Sastra. representation of the Sun God in the On the side of the Lord are his three Puranas. Sun temples are thus sacred spots consorts, Usha, Padmini and and for Buddhist pilgrims, as well. at the base are the Sages Sanaka and The Puranas proclaim the Sun God as the Sananda. unitary representation of the Divine Trinity, This temple is one of the very few important Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma, thus proclaiming shrines dedicated to the Sun God and it the oneness of the basis of creation. Aditya attracts a large number of pilgrims. The Hridayam sings His praise as the Lord who worship of the Sun God is undertaken by is the Trinity : And before this supreme suffering humanity seeking relief from manifestation, in whom man’s earliest afflictions of body and mind. A very recent religious consciousness saw all super- occurrence at Arasa Villi confirms this belief. natural powers concentrated, no sin, no A young man of twenty from a village in suffering could survive or persist. To this Godavari district was suffering from leprosy luminous form visibly ablaze man prayed which covered his body with ugly sores. and got himself cleansed and purified in He went to Kasi, having decided to end his body and mind. life by falling into the sacred Ganges. A pious man who met him there advised him to go to Arasa Villi, and worship the Sun God with single minded devotion for a period Lepakshi is a name that spells beauty of of forty days. The young man accordingly sculpture; Like Ajanta, Ellora, Khajuraho came to Arasa Villi and worshipped Sri

157 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA and Konarak, Lepakshi is a treasure-house, Universe, is worshipped here in his nine into which sculptural artists probe and find aspects, as Bala Brahma, Kumara Brahma, rare specimens of the beauty of ancient Arka Brahma, Veera Brahma, Viswa Brahma, workmanship. While it satisfies the Taraka Brahma, Garuda Brahma, Swarga yearnings of the art-world with its rich Brahma, and Padma Brahma. It is said that sculptures and paintings, Lepakshi also Brahma performed a mighty penance here pacifies the spiritual hunger of the devotees lasting thousands of years and Lord Siva who flock here on account of the sanctity pleased with it, conferred on him the power of its shrines. and privilege of Creation. Shrines dedicated One of the hundred and eight outstanding to Brahma are rare in India, and as such Siva Kshetras, Lepakshi is doubly sanctified Alampur stands out in prominence amidst by its association with the great sage the pilgrim centres of India.The sacred Agastya, who is said to have established confluence of Tungabhadra and Krishna the the shrine of Papanaseswara. Raja Rajeswara Tirtha, are some of the other The temple stands as a testimony to the sacred spots at Alampur, which find mention basic unity of the Divine manifestations, in Puraanas. The temples here reflect the enshrining Lord Shiva, Veera Bhadra, Vishnu type of architecture in their outward and Mother Durga within the same premises. appearance, but reveal the western-Indian The present temple, by the style of its pattern in some of the sculptures within. architecture, sculpture and paintings, could Like Lepakshi, this place, too is rich in its be dated back to Krishna Devaraya’s times. specimens of architecture and sculpture. The paintings and sculptures beautifully depict several instances and anecdotes drawn from the epics and the Vedas. The -Mantapa depicts Lord Shiva in his many aspects such as Linga Bhava, Natya GOA Murthy, Dakshina Murthy, Chandikeswara, Murthy, etc. Other legends, GOA with its vast coconut and mango like that of , are also depicted groves, fringing paddy-fields and lagoons, here. No wonder, this temple, with such a bracing freshness and an ever-green sacred associations and hoary traditions aspect to the land, justifies its ancient continues to draw large crowds of pilgrims name Gomantak derived from “Gomant” season after season. which in Sanskrit means cool. Besides its scenic beauty, Goa also abounds Alampur in man-made wonders, magnificent temples, grim fortresses and archaic rock-hewn Situated on the sacred soil that adjoins caves. the confluence of the holy rivers Krishna The shrines of Goa, particularly, bear and Tungabadra is Alampur, where stand testimony to the architectural skill, artistic the rare shrines of the “Nava ”. imagination and religious spirit of the Brahma, the originator and Creator of the forbears of the Goan people.

158 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA The Mangeshi and Shanta Durga Temples, Two other to name a few, draw thousands of pilgrims from Bombay, Mysore, Mangalore and even well- known spots and as such Alampur stands out in prominence amidst the pilgrim centres of SHANTA DURGA OF GOA India. The sacred confluence of Tungabadra and Krishna the Raja Rajeswara Tirtha, Shanta Durga was originally in Tirhut Ganika Siddheswara, Papa Vinasana Tirtha (Mithila): Legend has it that Sage are some of the other sacred spots at Parasurama had invited some Priests from Alampur, which find mention in Puranas. The Tirhut to aid him in his Yagna. These pious temples here reflect the Orissa-type of men had brought the image of Shanta architecture in their outward appearance, Durga (their Goddess) along with them and but reveal the western-India pattern in installed Her at Kaivalyapur. This place is some of the sculptures within. Like also known as Kavle Gram. The Temple is Lepakshi, this place too, is rich in its extensive and pilgrims come in an unending specimens of architecture and sculpture. stream from all over Maharashtra and The famed temple at Tambdi Surla belongs Mysore to worship here. to the same architectural school to which we owe Belur and Halebid. The Sri Sapta THE MAHADEVA OF MANGESH Koteswar, the deity of the ancient Kadamna rulers of Goa, the Temple at Narve, later Mangesh Mahadeva is housed in an renovated by no less a person than Shivaji, extensive temple. It is said that it is a afford a vivid glimpse into the remote past. Swayambhu and that the Lord manifested Himself as a Linga in answer to the fervent Goan folk-lore is very rich in tradition, prayers of an ardent devotee. Mother pageantry and cultural significance. Goa Durga had once prayed here and it is said has two picturesque waterfalls, viz. Dudh that the Lord assumed the form of a Sagar and Arvalem. There is a legend that ferocious animal. Frightened by its brothers with Draupadi stayed appearance the Mother wanted to cry out: near these waterfalls. There are very many Girisa mam Pahi. Instead the words that lakes like the Kadamba, Kamba and Mayem came out were Mangesh. Therefore the found scattered here and there around and temple is called Mangesa Temple. Large about Goa. crowds throng to this temple on Sivaratri day.

159 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA pilgrim centres can be traced to Hindu Pilgrimage Centres mythology. Almost all the holy places have In Maharashtra acquired their sacrosanct character by virtue of their having been the location of L. K. GATNE some incident or the other in the lives of saints or Godly men. There are numerous places along the entire length and breadth HERE can be diverse opinions on the of the country that are said to be religion as a social force, but the fact associated with the lives of Sri Rama and cannot be denied that religion has T Sri Krishna - the two most important of been a way of life in this Indian the ten incarnations of God. Similarly in subcontinent for ages. Hinduism, which is rivers are considered very a major religion in this country pervades all sacred and are held in high esteem as walks of life - private and public. It has ‘Lokamatas’ or mother angels. Most of the not only laid down the procedures and sacred places are thus situated on the rituals to be followed at the various facets banks of rivers. of individual life but has also laid down the doctrines of social morality. By and large, Maharashtra - Dotted all over with same is the impact of all other religions Sacred Spots that thrive in India peacefully together.

No wonder that every region of this great Pilgrimage as a Pious Duty land is dotted with pilgrim places, Maharashtra, is no exception to this. The Among the duties enjoined in the Hindu State possesses a rich religious and spiritual scriptures, pilgrimage to holy places heritage. Places of pilgrimage are scattered occupies a high place. The importance of all over the State. It may be easier to pilgrimage is well illustrated by such Sanskrit count the stars in the sky or the grains of stanzas. sands but not the temples. It is difficult to Hindu mind has always longed for pilgrimage cover all of them in the span of this article. of “Chardham” - the four holy places Every holy place has a different story to situated in four corners of the country. The tell and a different message to give but let great hardship people underwent in visiting us be contented with an informative survey these far flung places in those days, when of a few representative ones. travel was tedious and full of hazards, is not easy to imagine today, when one can Nasik go from place to place quickly and comfortably. For those who could not Nasik possesses an all India importance as undertake pilgrimage to holy places in a pilgrimage place. Just as every Hindu distant lands, there were other smaller makes it a point to visit, Banaras or Kashi pilgrim centres situated in the region itself. in his life time, similar is the case with Nasik. The evolution of the idea of pilgrimage or Nasik is visited by a large number of people

160 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA from all parts of the country throughout of the old glory but is also keeping pace the year. Nasik is situated on the banks of with the modern times. In the last decade River Godavari. That part of the city which a gigantic industrial complex has sprung is situated on the north bank of the river up around Nasik. The Sinhastha Fair as also is known as Panchavati and that on the the Kumbha Mela is held at Nasik every south bank as Nasik City. Sri Rama spent 12th year. On this occasion, lakhs of people the major part of his exile here. According come here to have a holy dip in the to Hindu legend, Surpanakha (sister of . Ravana) lost her nose or ‘Nasika’ while Kala Ram Mandir, Kapaleshwar Temple, trying to persuade Lakshmana to marry her. Sundar Narayan Temple, Naroshanker Thus the place is called Nasik. Temple, Sita Gumpha, Rama Kund, Mahatma The city has seen the rise and fall of a Gandhi Memorial, Gangapur earthen dam, number of dynasties such as Andrabhratya, Topavana, Takali and Pandavleni are places Abhir, Chalukya, Rathod, Shaka, Yadav worth visiting in and around Nasik. Nasik is Bahamani etc. 184 Km. from Bombay by Road. Nasik, though full of religious and historical It is easy to reach by rail and road. Nasik places, is not lost merely in the memories Road is the railway station on the Bombay-

161 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Bhusaval main line of Central Railway and bust size brass statue of Saint Namdeo Nasik City is 9 Km. away from the railway installed on the step. The sand stone image station. Buses ply from the station to city of Sri Vitthal is about a metre in height regularly throughout the day. Besides and stands on a stone spout which is hotels, there are a number of Dharmashalas locally known as a brick, with the two hands or Sanatoria at Nasik where pilgrims can resting on the waist. halt. The Marathi saint-poets have sung innumerable devotional songs in praise of their be-loved . Other places visited Situated on the banks of river Bhima, by devotees are “Grand Stambha” in the Pandharpur is the spiritual capital of main temple itself, temple of Goddess Maharashtra. The river is popularly known Rukmini and temple of on the bank as Chandrabhaga at Pandharpur because of river Chandra-bhaga. of its crescent like course at this place. Pandharpur is 74 Km, from Sholapur and On account of the Pandurang or Vitthal 204 Km. from Poona by road. S.T. buses Temple, Pandharpur is considered as the ply from Poona, Bombay, Sholapur and other “Vaikunth” or the abode of Sri Vishnu on important places to Pandharpur. It is also earth. Pandharpur is the birth place of a railway station on Kurduwadi-Miraj “Varkari” movement which is based on branch of South Central Railway. “Bhakti” cult and which has dominated the life of rural Maharashtra. Varkari is to visit Pandharpur twice a year on “Ashadh” and “” Shuddha . Over two or A small place near Poona on the banks of three lakh people from all over Maharashtra river Indrayani, Alandi also popularly called congregate here for the “Ashadi Ekadashi” “Devachi Alandi” has acquired fame as a fair. Darshan of Sri Pandurang and a holy sacred place on account of the association dip in the river Bhima are the main rituals of Saint Dhyaneshwar who attained of the pilgrimage. samadhi here at the young age of 21 years, The Pandurang Temple is very ancient and seven centuries ago. Alandi is also provides a unique specimen of architecture. mentioned in the “Puranas” as Built in Hemadpanti style the temple is quite “Siddhakshetra” and “Alaka” and was expansive, its precincts being 105 metres celebrated as a “Shivapeeth” before the in length and 51 metres in width. It has period of Saint Dhyaneshwar. Since eight gates. The main gate is known as Dhyaneshwar himself belonged to Natha “Namdeo Darwaja”. On its opposite side is who are worshippers of God the Samadhi of Saint Chokhoba. After Shiva, Alandi even today is a “Shivapeeth”. entering the main gate is the step of Saint Besides the Samadhi of Saint Dhyaneshwar Namdeo or “Namdevachi Payri”. While which is in the main temple in the large ascending the steps to the temple precincts surrounded by stone walls, there devotees do not let their footsteps touch are other spots such as Siddheswar Temple, this step as it is held sacred. There is a “ Aajan” tree, “Suvama Pimpal”, Samadhi

162 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA of Kesarinath, etc. The temple has four regular buses ply between and gates on four sides, the one on the north Paithan. side being the main gate or “Mahadwar”. Some devotees stay at Alandi for longer period and do at least one reading of “Dhyaneshwari”, the immortal Marathi Dehu is a small village in Poona district commentary on Geeta by Saint situated on the banks of River Indrayani. Dhyaneshwar. Groups of devotees can be It is 15 Km. from Alandi. It is the birth seen engaged in reading the book around place of the renowned saint-poet Saint the “ Aajan” tree. . The devotional composition known as Paithan ‘Abhangas’ of Tukaram have a pride place in Marathi literature. A legend has it that This is a very important place of pilgrimage the adversaries of Saint Tukaram sank his in Marathwada region of Maharashtra, This Abhangas in the , but to their small town situated on the banks of river surprise Tukaram regained them as they Godavari has become a famous pilgrim came floating up on the surface of the centre on account of its association with water after seven days of severe penance Saint Eknath, the author of Eknathi by the Saint. Bhagwat and many other popular forms of Besides Tukaram Temple other important composition in Marathi such as songs, places at Dehu are : birth place of Tukaram, “Bharud”, “Gaul-an” etc. River Godavari with Indrayani Ghat, Indrayani Doh (deep pond its extensive bed here takes a serpentine of water), Bhandara Hill (6 Km.), etc. A course rounding up the town on three sides fair is held on “Tukaram Beej” on Falgun and adds to the charm of the landscape. Vad. 2 - the day on which Tukaram went Paithan was a seat of learning in olden bodily to Vaikuntha; Dehu is 34 Km. from times and a centre of religious authority. Poona and regular buses ply to Dehu from Even Saint Dhyaneshwar had to go to Poona and Alandi. is a railway Paithan in an effort to obtain station on Bombay-Poona main line and the “Shuddhipatra” from the religious heads village is 3 Km. from the station. which would have entitled him and his brother for the sacred thread ceremony. Ramtek The two Temples - one at the Samadhi of the Saint on the bank of the This is a hallowed place of pilgrimage near river and the other at the house where he Nagpur. Legend has it that Sri Ram had lived are important landmarks of Paithan. halted here for a while, during the period The other places worth a visit are Nagnath of his exile and hence the name “Ramtek” Datta Mandir, Jain Mandir, Teertha Kumbh, of this town. On the top of a small hill are Shirdan Kesari Math, etc. A big fair is held the temples of Sri Ram and Lakshman. The on Nath Shashthi on Phalgun Vad.6. peculiarity of this place is that there is a Paithan is 60 Km. from Aurangabad and separate Lakshman temple and the images

163 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA of Sri Ram, Sita and Lakshman are not Parli Vaijnath : 120 Km. from Nanded. installed in the same temple as is universally The temple was renovated by Rani found in Ram temples. Besides these, there Ahalyabai Holkar in the 17th Century. are Dhumreshwar, Kapatram, Narasimha, Varaha and Bhogaram temples. The hill Note on Ganesh Worship in “Ramgiri” is referred to by the Sanskrit poet Maharashtra Kalidas in his immortal classic “Meghdoota”. He is believed to have been inspired to Ganesh is known as “Mangal-”- the write this great work by the bewitching auspicious deity. It is a common custom scenic beauty of this spot. An impressive to worship and pray to this son of Shiva memorial to the great poet has recently and Parvati when undertaking any been constructed here. important work. On the hill there is an expansive lake Although practically every town and village Ramasagar with picturesque scenery all of Maharashtra would have at least one around. At the foot of the hill there is a temple of Ganesh, the places most famous sacred tank Ambala where the devotees as centres of Ganesh worship are the take a holy dip before proceeding to the Ashta-Vinayaks. There is the temples for “Darshan”. “Siddhivinayak” at . Ramtek 42 Km. from Nagpur is a railway Pali in the Kolaba district has the “Ballal- station on South Eastern Railway, regular Vinayak”. Not far off from this Pali is buses also ply from Nagpur to Ramtek. another member of this Ashta- Vinayak clan This is the Varad-Vinayak at Mahd. This is a very small village and the temple is also small. At Ozar in the taluka is Out of the twelve Jyotirlingas in India, as Vighneswar the fourth of the Ashta- many as five are located in Maharashtra. Vinayaks. This place is some six miles from Information about Trimbakeshwar near Junnar. Nasik is given elsewhere. The other places Some three miles from Junnar in the of Jyotirlingas are: surrounding hills is the Girijatmaka of Bhimashankar : 95 Km. from Poona. The . on the Poona- beautiful Shiva temple was built by Nana Ahmednagar road has the shrine of Ganesh Phadnavis, the eminent statesman of the known as Ganapathi. Peshwas. Bhimashankar is endowed with Then comes Theur, a place on the Mula- beautiful scenery. and the nearest approach is Ghrishneswar or Ghushmeswar : 1.5 Km. from the Loni station, on the Poona-Dhond from the world famous in section. The Ganesh at this kshetra is Aurangabad district. The Shiva temple is known as Chintamani. Moraya Gosavi who imposing and bears beautiful Carvings. was mainly responsible in making Aundha Nagnath : 64 Km. from Nanded. important is given below. This is supposed to be the first Jyotirlinga. The distance of this temple from Poona is The temple has exquisite carvings. not more than forty miles, but now for the

164 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA pilgrim the sun has come right over the the east is a small square room known as head, indicating that it was nearly five the shej-ghar or bed-room of the deity. hours since the bus has left Poona. The southernmost part of the entire The entire architectural scheme is quite complex is the Garbhagriha. The present simple. It is built on a platform some fifteen image is a giant one of the “Swayambhu” feet in height. On the street level in front type, rather of crude craftsmanship. of the temple is a big cell housing a giant According to textual references, the stone image of a mouse, the vahan of Ganesh image has four arms, and three Ganesh. The mouse is seated on his hind eyes. He holds the pasha and the amkusha legs, happily munching a held in the in the upper arms while the lower right rests forelegs. A broad flight of steps leads to on the knee and the lower left holds a the first stage of the raised platform. Here modak. On his left is Siddhi, on the right is another image of Nandi. Buddhi. In front are the “Mushaka” and There is a famous shrine of Bhuleshvar near “Mayur”. A tale told by the local elders Yavat, some ten miles from Morgoan. The states that the present image was people from this Yavat had placed an order established at this spot by the , with a craftsman from some other village Shri Krishna and Vyasa when they had come to carve an image of Nandi to place it to this kshetra for pilgrimage. before the Shivaling in that temple. On In the Sabhamantap is a Ganesh image ·and completion it was being transported to a pair of brass images of Lakshmi-Narayan, Bhuleshvar and the route passed through of obvious South Indian craftsmanship. The Morgaon. As soon as the cart in which the Ganesh image in this mantap is known as image was being carried came in front of Ballal-Vinayak or Kapil. In the eight corners this shrine, it broke down, dumping the of the courtyard are eight images of Ganesh image on the ground. All attempts to lift it described by the Mudgal Purana, They are were thwarted and ultimately the priests Vakratunda, Ballal, Heranba, Vighnesh, decided to chisel it down to a more Bhalachandra, Chintamani, Siddhivinayak manageable size. This brought forth a and Maha-Ganapathi. The famous saint strong remonstrance from Nandi who Tukaram visited this sacred shrine. Similarly warned one of the priests that he would Swami Ramdas had also visited the shrine. not budge from his position as he wanted Of the bigger festivals at the kshetra, four to be near Mayureshvar. A small structure are worth special mention. The first is was later on built to shelter it. Vijayadasami, then the fourth day - The main gate, a wide pointed arch practically on the first four days of the surmounted by a Nagarkhana opens on a first half of the month of Bhadrapad and spacious courtyard in the middle of which also of Magha and the Somavati Amavasya stands the shrine. Immediately inside the - new-moon days falling on Mondays. The gateway are two dipmalas, one on each Bhadrapad Chaturthi is the Ganesh side. Next is the Sabhamantap, a spacious Chaturthi and is celebrated everywhere in rectangular hall built in the typical Maratha Maharashtra. Here it is observed with great style. Adjoining this Sabhamantap towards pomp and festivity. Devotees of Ganesh

165 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA from all over Maharashtra gather here. Haji Malang Amongst the most prominent visitors is the Ganesh or Shri Mangalamurti of Chinchwad, The Dargah of Malang Baba is situated on that is brought here by the Devas, the the Malang-gad hills near village Wadi which care-takers of that kshetra. In addition to is 15 km. from Kalyan in Thana district. A ceremonial worship, processions etc., fair is held in the month of Magha in honour , , pravachans etc. of Saint Malang Baba or Haji Abdul Rehman, constitute the main items of the an Arab missionary. Though the fair is in celebrations. The Vijayadasami - the tenth honour of a Muslim Saint, its duration is day of the month of Ashvin, is celebrated determined by . It most enthusiastically. All those whose commences from Magha Sud 12 and ends original home was Morgaon make it a point on Magba Vad 2. The principal day of the to attend this function. The Kshetra of fair is Magha Sud 15. The total Morgaon is important not only as one of congregation is estimated to be about two the but also as the chief lakhs of people. Nearly eighty thousand of centre of what is known as the Ganesh them attend on the full-moon day alone. Sampradaya. Though the religious aspect was predominant in pilgrimage to holy places in Nanded olden times, it had also a social and national significance. In the course of pilgrimage Nanded, the district headquarters of people of different regions knew each other Nanded district, is a pilgrim centre of the better. In a vast country like India with Sikhs. Guru Govind Singh, the last Guru of diversities of language, customs, costumes, the Sikhs, lived here in his last days and traditions etc., pilgrimage has been a great his sacred ashes are buried in the famous integrating force and has helped to stress Huzur Sahib Sach Khand Gurudwara. the underlying unity of the Indian people, Situated on the banks of the river Godavari, as a nation. The need for national Nanded has many Hindu temples, as well. integration is all the greater today. It is, therefore, a happy augury that Bahubali travelling for pilgrimage has received an impetus in recent times. There is no doubt An important pilgrimage centre of Jains, that this encouraging trend will continue Bahubali is 11 km. from Hatkanangale in in the years to come and further strengthen Kolhapur district. There are two temples the unity of the Indian people. belonging to the two sects of Jain religion. With the phenomenon of more and more The temple of Shwetambar Jains is atop a people undertaking tours to the pilgrimage hill, while at the foot of the hill is the temple centres, an evident need for providing the of Digambar Jains. In the later temple is a necessary supplies and services at those giant idol of Shri Bahubali, the son of places has arisen. Simple but decent and Bhagwan Adinath, the first Tirthankara. clean accommodation has to be made available; basic amenities such as water,

166 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA electricity, toilets have to be provided; and Who is a Varkari? The word vari means a certain picnicking facilities such as parks trip or pilgrimage to Pandharpur during the and gardens, canteen etc., also have to Ashadh and Kartik months. One who be created. With the growing awareness undertakes this vari is a Varkari. Literally of tourism, private entrepreneurs and speaking, the meaning of the word vari is voluntary institutions are coming forward a thing or a feature recurring at fixed in this direction. Of course, Government intervals. Unlike visitors, the Varkari is too has its own responsibility in this sphere. bound to attend Ekadashi fairs of these The Directorate of Tourism, Government two months every year. of Maharashtra has already realised the He would take care to fulfil this duty most social and economic importance of this kind faithfully. On reaching Pandharpur, a snana of domestic tourism and has started taking in the Chandra Bhaga, the darshan of steps for providing necessary Pundalik and above all the darshan of Vitthal infrastructure at some of the identified are the chief rites, if they can be called as places of pilgrimage. such, that he is to perform. The Vithoba is the sole object The Varkaris of his devotion, of his Bhakti. The Varkaris, although apart No account of the Vitthal from the rest of society, do of Pandharpur could be not renounce the material complete without a sketch aspects of day to day life. of the Varkari Panth and the And although their philosophy great Palanquin processions teaches them to dissociate from various places in mentally from the material Maharashtra to Pandharpur. world, it does not advise The Varkaris and the Vitthal renunciation as such and cannot be separated. To hence they continue to live anybody who knows in society and pursue their something of the cultural professions as the rest of the history of the region, the people. They come from all mention of the name of the castes and classes. Their one automatically reminds separate identity is never of the other. The Varkari is emphasised to such a degree a picturesque figure. as to mar the basic unity of Although when moving Hindu Society. about in his routine daily life -Courtesy: Bhavan’s he does not make himself conspicuous Publication, Temples and Legends of through any special dress or sectarian Maharashtra, by M. S. Mate. symbols, the Varkari when he moves out for his vari or trip to Pandharpur does have a peculiar aspect.

167 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Shirdi of Sri Sai Baba T. KESAVA RAO

Shirdi - Its Location

HIRDI is a small hamlet, ten miles from Kopergaon railway station on Sthe Dhond- Manmad railway line, and forms part of the Ahmednagar District of Maharashtra, Kopergaon being the taluk headquarters. The nearest post office linking Shirdi is at Rahata, Shirdi could also be reached by bus from Manmad railway junction, the distance being about forty miles. Usually, devotees alight at Kopergaon station and then proceed to Shirdi. They have to cross the river Godavari before reaching Shirdi, the Godavari river being the main source of supply of water to Shirdi creeds of people, from his Tomb. Shirdi has and nearby places. As one approaches thus become a holy centre for all Sai Shirdi, even from a distance, the shining devotees who throng to this place for dome or of Sri Sai Baba’s main Mandir obtaining all kinds of benefits, temporal and would arrest one’s attention. This sight spiritual, through holy associations of the would immediately recall to the pilgrim’s Master. mind the many supernormal acts performed Shirdi was a small hamlet at that time, of by the Master, while in mortal coil, for the mud-houses, many being poor agriculturists emancipation of the suffering and the belonging both to the Hindu and Muslim needy. Both by precept and by practice, communities. The village Chavadi was the Sri Sai Baba had laid down a solid basis for only building that could be boasted of. a universal religion binding different classes There was of course a Datta temple and a of people by love and mutual tolerance. and a Hanuman temple, as well Under this ever-expanding banner of love as a Mosque. The villagers were ignorant and service, Shirdi today shines as a and susceptible to the superstitions and symbol of the unity of all religions, pulls of the major communities. sanctified by the holy presence of the Divine Master, who though unseen to the Sri Sai Baba’s Advent human eye, still continues His divine mission of promoting and fostering universal Sri Sai Baba entered Shirdi as a lad of brotherhood amongst different classes and sixteen. He was tall, well-built, and

168 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA handsome, but was clad as a Fakir. He and kind to Baba, he could not but object never stayed at any place but was to Baba’s stay - a Muslim Fakir staying at wandering in the fields and woods, helping a ! However, Sri Sai Baba, the sick by administering herbs, and took finding his objection to be natural, did not nothing in return for his services. The persist in his intention but simply said, “God villagers thought that here was a mad Fakir is one for Hindus and Muslims, and for all. and a few used even to make fun of him. But as you object to my entry, I shall go.” But Sri Sai Baba never bothered about But later on, the same Mahlsapathy these insults and pinpricks. Perhaps, the became the first and most ardent devotee then situation at Shirdi with all its and worshipper of Baba, who did visit the attendant pulls of many kinds made Shirdi Khandoba Temple many times thereafter. an ideal place for him to embark on his Mahlsapathy esteemed Baba for his purity Divine Mission, - the grand mission of and non-attachment and soon perceived infusing love into all and bringing about on the Divinity in Baba and became the pioneer a large, national scale mutual harmony and of Sai Puja and Sai Movement. In fact, by understanding and particularly the his affectionate welcome he gave to Baba, promotion of Hindu-Muslim unity. “Ava Sai”, he became Sai Baba and this This work became very prominent since was the nucleus - the banyan-seed as it 1886, when Sri Sai Baba returned to his were, - for the vast expansion and growth body after three days of his having left it, of the Sai Mission. Mahlsapathy’s case is against all presumption that he was dead, an excellent instance of the impact of after his body had been zealously guarded Baba’s way of unifying religion and creeds by his closest and most ardent devotee, successfully. Mahlsapathy. Sri Sai Baba utilised his vast powers (as the Divine messenger) solely for the benefit of mankind and for the re- establishment of righteousness or Dharma, The deeds of this great Avatar could be seen from a study of his acts and the places he frequented ‘at Shirdi.

Khandoba Temple

The first place which Sri Sai Baba attempted to live in was the Khandoba Temple, where the worship was carried on by a pious and orthodox Hindu, Sri Mahisapathy, Baba was attracted by the quiet and secluded spot of this temple, which was in the outskirts of the village, Though Mahispathy was very courteous

169 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA The Neem Tree that Yielded Sweet he never permitted Sri Mahlsapathy and Leaves other devotees even to put up rafters for covering up the portion in the Mosque The next important place of visit at Shirdi where he was staying. But, however, by is the first resting place of Baba under the relentless entreaties and prayers to Baba, shade of the Neem tree at the place now they were able to obtain his approval for known as the Gurusthan, behind the main just a roof at the Mosque. Samadhi Mandir. Sri Sai Baba used to stay underneath this tree using such shelter as The Fire and the Udhi this could afford. The significance of his staying there lies in that the leaves of this Sri Sai Baba used to light up a fire before neem tree taste sweet, in as much as that him in the mosque, and he used to chant very place marks the samadhi containing some inexplicable words known only to him. the relics of the Guru of Sri Sai Baba in his He used to meet and discuss with all those former life. To-day there is a neat marble who came to him at the mosque and also construction around this tree, and devotees distribute the ashes (Udhi) from the fire as pray here and meditate on their Guru. a healing medicine and as his blessings. He used to talk only in parables and his Baba Shifts to the Mosque strange sayings and behaviour used to be appropriate answers to the devotees who Sri Sai Baba could not long stay under this came to him for help and guidance. He used tree, for this could not afford shelter from to declare that once a devotee ascends either the hot sun or the heavy downpour the steps of the mosque and goes to him, of rain or the other rigours of climate. So, his ‘Karma’ is over. Sri Sai enjoined on all Baba moved on and chose the Mosque for that everyone should give up three things, his stay. namely, their Tan, Man, Dhan, (which The Mosque was, however, in a dilapidated meant body, mind and wealth) for achieving condition, but Sri Sai Baba preferred this the highest aim in life-Divine Realisation. place for obvious reasons ensuring an Sitting before the sacred fire-the - austere and very simple living. Among the Baba used to control the elements causing villagers, Mahlsapathy and the village rain, heat, etc.-and take upon himself the Karnam were his close associates drawn effects of diseases, etc., from others for to him by “rinanubandha” (bonds of a former securing their welfare. Once he made the life). Sri Sai Baba used to go about asking rains stop to enable the devotees cross for alms only from few houses, and safely the river Godavari; likewise he put whatever was given was shared by him out a fire by his command and saved his amongst his companions. All his possessions devotees from its ravages. He once saved consisted of a brick given to him by his a child by dipping his own hands in the Gurudev, Venkusa, which be used as his Dhuni fire. (Later, it was learnt that at that pillow and some rugs, which were used as very instant, a child of a blacksmith, had clothes making up his bed. For a long time, fallen into the smithy fire and was

170 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA miraculously saved) . Like a loving mother, their lies. They fell prostrate before Baba’s Baba took care of the welfare of the feet and begged for his forgiveness. The devotees, wherever they may be. So Baba All Merciful Baba did not curse them, as was looked upon by his devotees as the they were very much afraid of his might. Unfailing Resort and Refuge. Thus, the Instead, He advised them to leave off the mosque where he stayed in came to be habit of uttering lies. He also advised them known as the ‘Dwaraka Mayee” the not to take pleasure at the suffering of residence of the Divine Mother, ever others. He also advised them that they exercising his protection to all his devotees. should lead an honest and pure life and also practise tolerance and good First Miracles of Baba neighbourliness.

Here it was (at the Dwaraka Mayee) that Change of Heart in the Villagers Baba performed his first miracle, which opened the eyes of the doubting people of This act of Baba brought out a change in Shirdi to the Divine powers of Sri Sai and the outlook of the Shirdi villagers. Now they his utmost compassion for the eradication knew that they were in the presence of a of ignorance and prejudice and the uplift great saint - who could turn water into oil of all people. Baba used to light up the - to whom they could always turn for earthen lamps at the mosque with the oil guidance and protection from all their collected by him as alms from a few difficulties and sorrows. From now onwards, merchants at Shirdi. One day, the they began to respect and love Baba as a merchants decided to have fun at the child would love its mother. The mosque expense of Baba, and refused to give oil, became their ‘Dwaraka Mayee’ the Divine telling Baba a lie that they had no oil. It never-failing mother who would always was their (malicious) desire to see Baba stand in eternal care of the deevotee- put to discomfort by this refusal. Baba children, wherever they may be, and they simply turned back and in the night he looked up to Baba sincerely for all their cleaned the earthen pots and poured fresh progress. water in them. He cleaned the lamps, removing thereby what little of oil there Visits from the Distinguished and the might have been. He then poured water High into the lamps. Inserting wicks into those earthen lamps, he lit them up. To the The news of this miracle spread far and amazement of all, the lamps started wide. Baba made the village karnam invite burning brightly and they continued to burn the Deputy Collector, Sri N. G. Chandorkar, throughout the night! The merchants who who was camping at Kopergaon, to visit came to delight and laugh in Baba’s Baba, his former companion. Sri Chandorkar discomfort remained there to pray to Him came to Shirdi after repeated requests. for forgiveness. They were now afraid that He was very much surprised at the tone of they would have to suffer retribution for familiarity with which Baba invited him. But

171 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA there was an inner force working on him, with him. He remained a fakir throughout. and Sri Chandorkar was convinced of the To mark Baba’s stay at the chavadi, even Divinity in Baba by the innumerable acts of now on Thursdays, Baba’s grace done by Baba for his sake. His visit (Sandals) are taken in procession from the was soon followed by visits of other great Mandir to the chavadi and from the chavadi influential men, like Hari Sitaram Dixit, Sri back to the Mandir, with deep religious G. S. Khaparde, leading lawyers, Shri M. B. fervour and devotion. Rege, a Judge of the High Court, Sri Das Ganu Maharaj, and Smt. Baba’s Daily Routine Radhakrishna Ayi, a highly advanced spiritual aspirant. Baba used to describe The daily routine of Baba’s life consisted Radhakrishna Ayi as mother and she started of his waking up early in the morning and the worship of Baba with all the going up from the mosque to a garden, paraphernalia associated with the worship where he himself planted some trees and at Pandharpur. Not only that, she swept flower-plants. He used to water them and the surroundings of Dwaraka Mayee in the send the flowers to the Datta and Hanuman nights, without any disturbance to Baba, temples. This is known as the Lendi garden. so that Baba, the Divine Master, could walk The lesson to be learnt from this is that to and fro in clean surroundings. A chariot everyone should imbibe the great art of and a palanquin were obtained for the use service -nursing the tender plants, which of Baba. One day some thieves stole away symbolised people that needed attention, the silver trappings put in the palanquin. without expecting anything in return. Baba, on being informed of the theft, showed his contempt for all this The Tiger Ceases to be Fierce paraphernalia by asking “Why was not the whole palki stolen?” The first miracle of Baba lighting the earthen lamps filled with water was The Chavadi - A Sanctified Spot performed, as already described, within the walls at the mosque - Dwaraka Mayee. The next place of interest sanctified by Now this place has been very neatly his stay was the Chavadi - a little away reconstructed. Up the steps of the Dwaraka from the mosque. This chavadi used to be Mayee is a big stone on which are imprinted the resting place for all travellers, who the feet of Baba. This stone was used by passed Shirdi on their way to Ahmednagar. Baba as his seat. It was at this place that Baba used to sleep at the chavadi on a fierce circus-tiger attained mukti, when alternate nights. But he never allowed any it was brought before Baba by a circus woman to stay with him either at the troupe. The tiger lost all its fierceness at chavadi or in the mosque. He maintained the sight of Baba and perhaps its evil karma strict celibacy. Whatever presents - money was over then. It refused to go back with or other offerings - he got, were distributed the circus troupe and fell down dead. by him amongst the devotees, who were

172 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Discourses on Baba however, ordered a small place to be dug in the centre of the building and to leave By the soul-stirring discourses of Sri Das it free without any construction. Nobody Ganu Maharaj, by the influence of a great could at that time fore-see as to what official like N. G. Chandorkar, and leading exactly was the purpose behind this Lawyers and Judges, and very wealthy men instruction. Every morning, on his daily like Sri Butty of Nagpur, many came to know walks, Baba used to go round the of the greatness of Baba and paid construction, and standing on the sides, respectful visits to him. The result was he used to make certain signs with his that Shirdi became a pilgrim-centre bringing hands, chanting some prayer. in a very large number of devotees, day in and The Butty-Wada - the day out. Once a grateful Samadhi Spot devotee, who was blessed with a son, At that time very few desired to celebrate the could imagine that the event by celebrating place so marked off the Birthday of Baba, would become the very who asked him to do so place where his mortal on Sri Day. remains would be From that time onwards, interred and a tomb Sri Rama navami Day is would be raised thereon. being celebrated as For, exactly at that very Baba’s Jayanthi Day, place Baba’s body was when processions are laid to rest, when Baba taken out with great left his mortal coil on the enthusiasm and deep Vijayadasami Day in religious fervour, and 1918. The Butty wada people are fed freely. thus became the This Urs (festival) is jointly celebrated by treasure house of the samadhi of Sri Sai Hindus and Muslims and all communities. Baba. The tomb is inlaid with marble and to-day regular worship is conducted early Sri Butty another Devotee in the morning, at noon and at night.

Another devotee, Sri Butty, desired to build Other Places of Interest a wada, and requested Baba’s permission therefore. Sri Sai Baba gave his consent The other places of interest at Shirdi are and gave personal instructions as to the the small temples for Datta and Hanuman, plan and construction of the building. He very near the Chavadi. Baba used to send remarked that this building would become flowers picked by him personally to the a temple of love for . He, Datta temple. In the early days of his stay

173 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA at the mosque, Baba used to dance and Ultimate. He stayed at the Ramana Ashram sing in praise of the Lord with anklets tied in Tiruvannamalai for three years, observing to his feet. At the Dwaraka Mayee, Baba silence. From there he wandered all over gave darshan as Rama, Krishna, Siva, the country. At Sakori, he met Sri Upasani Hanuman, Ganapathi, in accordance with who spoke to him of Sri Sai Baba. Drawn the wishes of the devotees. by Sri Sai Baba, he went to Shirdi and the To-day, Shirdi has grown up with all modern moment he went to the Tomb and prayed facilities, making the visit and stay of the to Baba, there, in a flash, he realised the pilgrims a very comfortable one. Big schools Truth when Sri Sai Baba revealed himself and dispensaries have been built. A kalyana and made Sri Narasimha Swamiji his “Ankita” mantapam (house for marriages) has also Child. been constructed. Many big rest houses To-day, if Sri Sai Baba’s name is known all have come up, and Shirdi has become the over the country, it is mainly due to the rallying centre for all classes of devotees, efforts of Sri Narasimha Swamiji. Sri shining forth as the Centre of Universal Narasimha Swamiji took all pains to collect Religion. the material for Sai history and His Sakori and Upasani Baba Teachings and did propagate for years the Divine purpose of the advent of Sri Sai A narrative of Shirdi would be incomplete Baba. The All India Sai Samaj was founded without the mention of Sakori, patronised by him to carry on the Mission. We, Sai by Sri Upasani Baba, a great disciple of Sri devotees, are ever grateful to Sri Narasimha Sai Baba. Sakori is about three miles from Swamiji for the signal service he has Shirdi. Sri Upasani Baba had been blessed rendered in this revealing the Divine Master and endowed with vast powers by Sri Sai Sri Sai Baba to all of us, not only for our Baba. However, Sri Upasani Baba chalked welfare but also for the welfare of the whole out a different line with a stress on yajnas of mankind and for ushering in a Universal and homas which was different from the Religion, bringing different classes of people Bhakti Marga propounded by Baba. Our main together under the common Banner of Love reason for referring to Sakori and Upasani as exemplified by Sri Sai Baba Himself. Baba is that Sri Upasani also spread the The- Shirdi association with Sri Sai Baba greatness of Sri Sai Baba and was in a will be of considerable help to the sadhaka great measure responsible for infusing Sai in his understanding of the teachings of Bhakti into Sri Narasimha Swami, Master Sri Sai Baba. and Founder-President of the All India Sai May Sri Sai Baba and His Holiness Sri Samaj at Mylapore, Madras, a great lawyer Narasimha Swamiji shower Divine Blessings and Sanskrit scholar. on all seekers of truth and enable them to obtain the lord’s blessings in a full measure. Sri Narasimha Swamji’s Association

Sri Narasimha Swami left his home and family and went out in search of the

174 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA

Somnath Temple, Gujarat

175 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Gujarat’s Somnath Antiquity of the Shrine

and Dwaraka The first temple of Somnath was built as early as, if not earlier than, the first century A.D. Six hundred years later, when ITH a large tract of its territory Dharasena IV ruled over a part of Gujarat, jutting out into the sea, Gujarat a new temple replaced the old one. But W- the land where Gujarati is the the second temple did not stand for a long main language - is - like a “Balcony on the time. We do not know whether it was Arabian Sea”. attacked and destroyed by men or whether Besides, Gujarat is associated with some some natural calamity befell it or some of the greatest sons of India. In the days defect in its construction made it short- of yore, as tradition has it, Dwaraka was lived. But the temple became more famous ruled by Lord Krishna, whose philosophy of after it was built for the third time, in the dedicated action is summed up in the ninth century. Festive life thronged around ‘the Song Celestial’. Then the temple until on a January day in the there were devotees like Narsi Mehta and year 1026, struck it with reformers like Dayanand Saraswathi, and violence. For three days fierce resistance other saints and reformers, too. . was offered by the people, who did not Gujarat is studded with holy places. It is expect such fierce assault on a temple. the ambition of every traditional Hindu to Fifty thousand men laid down their lives in visit Dwaraka at least once in his life time. a brave effort to save the temple, but the At Somnath, there is a renowned Siva attackers succeeded in plundering and temple which had been repeatedly destroying it. However, a new temple was destroyed and re-built. Moreover, Gujarat built soon after, which had to be replaced has two of the holiest places for the Jains; again by a fifth one. This was built by the the temple-crowned hill of Girnar near great scholar-devotee, Bhava Brihaspati, Junagadh and the Satrunjaya Hill near under the patronage of King Kumarapala in Palitana. the twelfth century.

Somnath Determined Efforts to Re-build the Temple Again and Again The shrine of Somnath in Prabhasa is traditionally as old as creation; it is pre- For a period of one hundred years the historic. Prabhasa was a traditionally sacred temple became a centre of religious and place even in the days of Dharma, the son cultural research. Then Allauddin Khilji sent of Pandu. The Mahabharata refers to it his general, Asaf Khan, to destroy the grand again and again. It was very well-known structure that Bhava Brihaspati had built to the people and was situated at a holy with such devotion. This happened in the spot where river Saraswathi flowed into late thirteenth century. The temple was the sea. reconstructed again, for the sixth time, by

176 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Mahipal, the King of Junagadh, and the deity Rashtrapathi Dr. Rajendra Prasad installed was reinstalled by his son in the first half the Jyotir Linga of Lord Somnath in the of the fourteenth century. new temple constructed on the historic In the fifteenth century the temple was spot at Prabhasa Patan, near in occupied, not destroyed, by a young . It was the same spot and over Governor of Gujarat, Mahmud Begda, and the same Brahma-Sila, where for millennia the deity was removed. But after a few stood the hoary and sacred Jyotir Linga years, Begda’s hold slackened and the deity and shrine of God Siva, the first among was reinstalled. Then at the beginning of the twelve famous Jyotir Lingas, which was the eighteenth century, there came a more held in extreme veneration all over Bharat. determined attack. Auragazeb ordered Prabhasa is referred to both as Somanatha Mahammad Azam, to destroy the temple Pattana and Deva Pattana. completely. But the temple rose again under the patronage of the celebrated Queen of Prabhasa Tirtha - Legendary Origin Indore, Ahalyabai, in the latter half of the eighteenth century. The British, when they This Prabhasa Tirtha is situated on the came to India, knew what a delicate place seashore on the south coast of Saurashtra. the shrine of Somnath occupied in Indian The 7th Adhyaya of Prabhasa Khanda gives hearts and how much the people had the legendary origin of this Tirtha. It says suffered because of all that had happened that Lord Siva has been present in this to the great temple. Tirtha since eternity, and will remain so However, the Gaekwad of Baroda, who was eternally. Various Brahmas have come and entrusted with the management of the gone. This is the age of the seventh temple, had not for a long time, the right Brahma called Satananda and Lord Siva is to repair it. But soon after India achieved known as Somanatha. Before that, during independence, in November, 1947, - Sardar the regime of the six earlier Brahmas, Lord , the Deputy Prime Minister Siva’s abode was at Prabhasa, but Siva of India, visited the temple. It was the was then known by the names of New Year Day of Samvat 2004. Addressing Mrityunjaya, Kalagnirudra, Amritesa, a mammoth gathering in front of the Anamaya, Krittivasas and Bhairavanatha. temple, he said: “On this auspicious day The eighth Brahma, who is yet to come, of the New Year, we have decided that will be known as Chaturvaktra and Siva Somanath should be reconstructed. You, will then be known as Prananatha. people of Saurashtra, should do your best. The Rig Vedic references to Saraswathi This is a holy task in which all should make it clear that it started from Plaksha participate.” Prasravana in the Himalayas, passed through Marwar, Abu and Gujarat and then Jyotirlinga Re-installed met the sea near Prabhasa, Rig Veda (7- 95-2) says that the pure river Saraswathi On 11th May, 1951, Vaisaka Shukla flows from the mountains to the sea. Panchami (S.Y.2007), at 9-47 a.m. (I.S.T.) The deity, which was known to the Vedic

177 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Rishis as Kalagnirudra, was designated as The prosperity of the is Bhairava at Prabhasa. He is also called described by Mohammedan historians. The Agni-Isana. In different Kalpas, this same garbha griha was lighted by jewelled lamps, deity is known by different names and the huge bell was rung with a chain of (Prabhasa 4-68-73). solid gold of 200 in weight. In the Somnath has five faces (Prabhasa 6-8). treasure room, there were numerous This Somnath is the highest deity called subsidiary images and equipment of gold, Hamsa and Nada (Pr. 6-36). The Kala silver and jewels. The temple had 56 pillars Bhaivara Linga of Siva at Prabhasa was all studded with gems. On every eclipse worshipped by the Moon with great day lacs of pilgrims gathered there. austerity and when the deity was pleased, Moon prayed for divine grace and as an Risen like the Phoenix expression of it that the Lord is known by the name of his devotee, as Somnath and The temple of Somnath has withstood the that He should be the Kula Devata (the shocks of time and survived the attacks family deity) of all the successive Moons of destroyers. Aged, infirm, desecrated, it (Pr.7-51). stood when Sardar Patel rescued it from Prabhasa Khanda (2-82 and 83) describes neglect and pledged himself to its the Linga of Somnath as follows: “It is a reconstruction. As a temple, it had done Swayambhu Linga of great powers, as its work to remind ages of what India’s bright as the disc of the Sun, surrounded faith had been; it was left only as a symbol by a serpent, of the size of the egg of a of her never to-be-forgotten misfortune. hen, called the Sparsa Linga and lodged In the dawn of a new era, the temple has under-ground.” risen like the phoenix, from its own ashes. With this another legend is also connected. when insulted by her father Daksha, Dwaraka threw herself into fire and was re-born as Uma, Sati is identified with Soma or The people of Dwaraka hailed Krishna with Chandra, (Moon), and Siva or Agni with these words: “In you we have our best the Sun (the Celestial Agni). On Amavasya leader and guide. We are fortunate that day, Sati or the Moon merges or is burnt in we are in a position to come close to you the Sun (the Celestial Fire) i.e., Siva and who are all kindliness, whose face is emerges as the new Moon or Uma (See beaming with radiant affection and smiles, Prabhasa Khanda, Ch. 19). Siva is identified particularly when looking up to your divine in Satarudriya with the Sun and it is stated height, your very sight is difficult to be that He is red, then slightly red, then tawny had even by Gods”. and then auspicious as He gradually rises Situated on the extreme western tip of in the sky; and even ignorant cow-herd the Saurashtra Peninsula, Dwaraka is one boys, water-carrying women of the villages of the seven most important places of Hindu and all creatures including cattle can then pilgrimage. Krishna, the eighth incarnation see Him. of Vishnu, and revealer of the great Hindu

178 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA scripture, the Bhagavad Gita, is said to banks of Gomati. The Sikhar has seven have come to Okha Mandal (in which storeys and is 140 feet high. The large district Dwaraka is situated) after his flight Mantapa has five storeys, with a dome from Mathura, which had been attacked supported by sixty pillars. On the outside, by two demon-kings. From Dwaraka, the temple has extensive and delicate Krishna fought his enemies and regained decoration in stone. It is surrounded by Mathura. Dwaraka is described in Maha two walls and the space for Bharata, Hari Vamsa, Vayu, Vishnu, circumambulation is in between these two Bhagavara, Varaha, Skanda and other walls. In the sanctuary the image of Lord Puranas. Skanda has forty-four chapters Dwaraka-dhisa stands on a silver-plated devoted to it. Simhasana. The image is of black stone, Krishna killed Kamsa at Mathura. Thereafter, three feet high, with four arms. Pilgrims go Jara Sandha of Magadha and Kalayavana inside, touch the feet of the Lord and place simultaneously attacked Mathura. Finding flowers and Tulsi on His feet. In the upper that Yadavas were practically besieged on storey, there is an image of all sides, Krishna decided to come down (Goddess) and in one corner of the Sabha and construct a strong fort near the sea Mantapa there is an image of Bala Devaji. in Saurashtra and so settled in Dwaraka. On one side of the main temple there is a This place was not far from the Raivataka separate shrine of Trivikramaji and on the Mount. other of Pradyumnaji. There is also the Dwaraka is viewed as one of the seven temple of Kuseswara Maha Deva. holy cities, a visit to which is said to secure On the south of the temple, there is the liberation. The seven cities are Ayodhya, Bhandar of Sri Ranch-Hodrai or Mathura, Maya (), Kasi, Kanchi, Dwarakadhisa under the control of the Avantika () and Dwaramati. Sarada Math of Sri Sankaracharya.

The Original Dwaraka and the Modern The Sarada Pitha of Sankaracharya Town Sri Adi Sankaracharya who is said to have The original Dwaraka of Krishna’s time is established four Maths at Sringeri, Puri, described as being twelve Yojanas in Badrinath and Dwaraka, at the age of circumference in the middle of the sea seventeen, invoked at this place Sarada (perhaps an island) with numerous parks, or Saraswathi-incarnate with the Mantra high palaces, golden domes, big gopuras, known as Chinta Mani on the first of the spacious terraces, etc. The main attraction dark half of Kartika. On the fifth of the of the modern town of Dwaraka is the dark half of Kartika, he established the famous temple of Dwarakadhisha, also deity (Sarada) and after an Anushthana called the Triloka Sundara or Jagat temple. lasting up to the tenth bright half of Magha, The legend says that it was constructed he established the Sarada Peetha at by Nabha, the grand-son of Krishna, Dwaraka. The story goes that one month with the help of Visva Karma. It is on the before his Mahasamadhi, he established on

179 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA this Peetha his disciple Sureshwaracharya, to Dwaraka in about 1236-40 AD. The great who in his Purvasrama, i.e., before he Saint of Maharashtra, Jnaneshwar, had became a Sannyasin, was the famous been here In 1275 AD. and Govindaswami Mandana Misra. The Peetha records that of Bengal in 1491 AD. Sri Vallabhacharya till now there have been seventy-six visited Dwaraka three times. Sri Chaitanya Acharyas of the Sarada Peetha, many of and Mira Bai also visited the place. whom were very learned and pious and have Vitthalesha Goswami, son of Vallabhacharya contributed largely towards the while on his yatra here, arbitrated between development of religious life in Western the conflicting claims of Gugali and Aboti India. The present Sankaracharya is Sri Brahmins. Abhinava Satchidananda Tirtha Swami who became Acharya of the Peetha in Samvat Bet Dwaraka year 2001. One of the Sankaracharyas at Dwaraka About twenty miles from Dwaraka in the opened a branch of the Peetha at , Bay of Cutch, there is an island called Bet where stands also a temple of Ranch- Dwaraka, This is a place of importance to hodraiji. the Sampradaya. The Bet contains The famous Narasi Mehta, the Saint and two main temples-one that of Ranch- illustrious Gujarati poet, was a great hodraiji and the other called Sankhoddhara. devotee of Krishna. Once a pilgrim wanted Sites and buildings are named and a Junagadh merchant to accept his money identified here as Krishna’s palace and and give him a Hundi on a Dwaraka places connected with Rukmini. merchant. Regarding Sankhoddhara, the legend is that Some people sent him to Narasi in jest. in the Satya Yuga, the demon Sankha was Narasi seriously wrote out a Hundi on troubling the sages of this place. The Lord Samalshah i.e., God Dwaraka-dhisa Himself. in his incarnation of (fish) destroyed The pilgrim went to Dwaraka, but found no him. The sages then built the temple of Samalshah. It is said that ultimately the Sankha Narayana. On the way to Bet Lord Himself appeared as Samalshah and Dwaraka there is the Gopitalao (or the Lake accepted Narasi’s Hundi, paid the pilgrim of the Gopis). The white earth of this lake the required amount and then disappeared. is called Gopi Chandana, and pilgrims carry it with them for making marks of it on the Visits of Sri Ramanuja and Sri Madhva fore-head, hands and chest. Near Dwaraka there is another ancient site Sri Ramanujacharya had come to Dwaraka known as Pindaraka. It is said that Pindas on a pilgrimage about 1036-50 AD. The offered to manes and thrown in a lake here various names of the Vyuhas of his swim on the water. Sampradaya and the images of , and other details of worship show the great influence of Sri Ramanuja at Dwaraka. Sri Madhvacharya had also been

180 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Girnar and Satrunjaya present name of Girnar was derived. In the Puranas Girnar is referred to as Ujjayanta, HARIHAR SINGH Ujjanta, Udayanta and Durjayanta while in the inscriptions it was called Urjayat. Huien Tsang also makes mention of the mountain Two Classes of Kshetras Ujjanta, which according to Cunningham is the Pali form of the Sanskrit Ujjayanta. THE Jainas are divided into two broad Another name applied for Mount Girnar is groups, Digambara and Svetambara and Raivata or Raivataka. each group has its own Tirthas called Tirtha Mount Girnar, the highest of the Gujarat Kshetras. But the Tirthas under review are hills, rises abruptly from the plains. regarded to be sacred by both sects. The Composed of diorite and monozonite it rises divide their Tirtha Kshetras into to a height of about 3,470 feet. The foot two categories, namely the siddhakshetra, zone of the hills is forested and a part of it the place where the Jainas or the other is occupied by the famous Gir Lion ascetics achieved their Nirvana and the Sanctuary, the only one of its kind in India atisayakshetra, the place which is sacred that has saved the lions from extinction in for other reasons. Such a type of division this part of the world. is not known to the Svetambaras, for the Girnar has been regarded as a holy site by Vivitha Tirthakalpa, a Svetambara Jaina the Hindus, the Buddhists and the Jainas work of the 14th century A.D. does not alike, since ancient times. According to make any such division, although it pertains Girnar Mahatmya, Prabhasa Kshetra and its to an extensive account of the Jaina vicinity on the sea-shore on the south Tirthas distributed all over India. coast of Soratha is the holiest of all the places of Hindu sanctity, but Girnar or Girnar Vastrapatha, as it is called, is held holier by some. But to the Jainas Girnar is most Girnar or Girinar is one of the five sacred sacred, for it is a Siddha Kshetra. Among hills of the Jainas. It is situated near the town of Junagadh in Gujarat. In the Junagadh inscription of Rudradamana dated 150 A.D. it is referred to as Giri Nagara. It was probably from Giri Nagara that the

181 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA the five most sacred places of the Jainas, Satrunjaya Girnar is also included. The antiquity of this site is traced to the very first Satrunjaya, a hill in southern is Tirthankara, Rsabhanatha. However, it is regarded as the holiest Jaina Tirtha in more famous on account of Neminatha, the Gujarat. It is situated beside the town of twenty-second Tirthankara, than any other Palitana, which is thirty-five miles by road Tirthankara. Of the five Kalyanakas from Bhavnagar and one hundred and thirty- (auspicious events) that occurred in the four miles from . life of a Tirthankara, three of Neminatha’s, It is called by different names. namely Diksa, Kevalainana and Nirvana, took Dhanesvarasuri, who wrote a Mahatmya place at this site. Apart from Neminatha, of Satrunjaya, enumerated its one hundred here were liberated Krsna’s sons, Sambu and eight names. In the list are also Kumara and Pradyumna Kumara, the latter’s incorporated the names of Abu and Girnar. son Anirudha and seventy two crore and This appears to be highly exaggerative, for seven hundred Jaina Munis? In another they are not linked together and stand far work, however, Sambu and Pradyumna are apart from each other. This merely seems said to have been liberated from to be an eulogy of Mt. Satrunjaya. Satrunjaya. Having come to know that it Jinaprabhasuri also furnishes us with a list is the Nirvana of Neminatha, the of twenty one names, five among which Pandavas paid a visit to this place and by were forgotten in course of time. performing hard austerities here they also This sacred mountain rises to a height of obtained salvation. nearly 2000 feet from sea level and about There are five principal Sikharas, (mountain 1400 feet from the town of Palitana. Among peaks) at Girnar, namely Ambamata, the five sacred hills of the Jainas Gorakhanatha, Oghada, Guru Dattatreya Satrunjaya is also included. It is sacred to and Kalka. Of these, the highest one is the memory of Adinatha who is said to have that of Guru Gorakhanatha. Below the patronised it more than any other place of Sikhara of Ambamata, which is the lowest pilgrimage, visiting it ninety purvas of times of the five, is the tunka of Neminatha. This before his death. Its existence ‘as a sacred tunka is reached after an ascent of nearly hill is traced to long ages before the advent 2000 steps and is adorned with magnificent of Adinatha. Jaina temples which have been the chief About the sanctity of this Tirtha attraction of the Jaina pilgrims since ancient Dhanesvarasuri describes that whatever days. The oldest among these is that of purity may be obtained in any other artificial Neminatha which is considered to be of places of pilgrimage (Tirth) tours, groves, special merit. It was built by Sajjana, the mountains, etc., by prayers, penances, dandanayaka of the Solanki King Jayasimha vows, gifts and study, ten-fold as much is Siddhraja (1094-1144 A.D). A large number obtained in Jaina places of pilgrimage; a of Jains from distant parts of India arrive hundred fold as much at the Chaityas of here every day to pay obeisance to the Jambu tree; a thousand fold as much Neminatha. at the eternal Dhatuki tree, at the lovely

182 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Chaityas or Pushkaradvipa at Mount Aniana. fortified walls called tunkas. The northern Yet ten-fold more is acquired at the summit named Nava tunka consists of nine Nandisvara, Kundaladri, Manushottara tunkas, of which the Caumukha is the Parvata; proportionately ten thousand biggest and most imposing. In the saddle more at the Vaibhara, Sammetadri, are two tunkas, the one towards the east Vaitadhya, Meru, Raivata and Ashtapada. is that of Motisaha and the other near the Infinitely more, however, is obtained at west end is that of Balabhai. Both were once by the mere sight of Satrunjaya. built in the 19th century A.D. The southern Mr.A. K. Forbes states that “Satrunjaya is pinnacle, which is regarded as most sacred, one of the most ancient and most sacred goes by the name of Dadaji or Adisvara shrines of the Jaina religion. It is described Bhagavana tunka. This summit is more as the first of places of pilgrimage, the elaborately adorned with temples. The bridal half of those who would marry Adinatha tunka in the western end of this everlasting rest: it is not destined to be peak is the oldest one on the Satrunjaya destroyed even at the end of the world.” hill. It is here that pious Jainas As Satrunjaya is a Siddha Kshetra, it was concentrated their attention by building also called Siddhacala. According to the ‘and re-building shrines and installing images Prakrit Nirvanakanda (12th-13th century in them. No one knows how often. The A.D.) here were liberated three sons of repairing work in this place would hardly Pandu and eight crore Dravida Kings.” The have ever stopped. Henry Cousins has Vividha Tirtha , on the other remarked that about 300 years ago, there hand,reveals that all the five Pandavas could not have been more than two small were liberated from here. Gautama Kumara groups upon the hill, perhaps not a dozen having been initiated by Neminatha shrines in all, namely that of Caumukha on obtained salvation at this site. Ascetic the northern crest and that of Adisvara pundarika performed penances and Bhagavan on the southern with a few attained salvation here.” Satrunjaya as a isolated old Hindu shrines appropriated to sacred Tirtha is famous from time Jaina worship. immemorial and it was visited by a large The Svetambaras consider this place to number of accomplished sages such as be most sacred of all the sacred places Rsabhasena and excepting Neminatha by known to them. Pilgrims and vistiors come twenty three Jainas from Nabheya to here to pay homage to Adinatha throughout Vardharnana. Satrunjaya is an isolated hill the year. rising gently from the plains into the twin summits linked together by a shallow valley. To ascend this holy mountain there is an arrangement of stairways. There are about two thousand five hundred steps covering a distance of nearly two and a half miles. At present the hill is covered with more than a hundred temples built into the

183 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA VINDHYACHAL the’ temple are different forms of the Mother as also that of Lord Siva. As my friend stood in silent communion, we walked around exploring the place. Nearby we Pilgrimage in the Company of a Devotee found another temple dedicated to Lord Siva with an image of Sri Anjaneya. While HIS place is about 6.4 km. from we went through all this unemotionally as Mirzapur. From here roadways link tourists would do, our friend joined us. He TMirzapur to Vindhyachal. “Why not walked like a somnambulist, eyes drawn ride down to the temple? - said my friend in, gait unsteady. He pointed to a spot to who was a Sakti worshipper. His head bent the north across the Ganges. in reverence only in front of temples Half in joke and half in awe we turned to depicting the form of the Mother. Thus it the spot he indicated. There stood a is that we set out one fine day to the mounted Linga on the sand. This he told temple of Vindhyavasini Devi. The ride was us would be submerged when the river was pleasant as at most times we could see in spate. Now we proceeded on to Kali the placid flow of River Ganges. Khoh, a place indicated by a guide who We passed the tiny bustle at the station was attracted by my friend’s devotion. and then passed through the dust of the About 3.5 km. from Vindhyavasini there is Vindhyachal Bazaar, where to the utter a small hillock with a shrine on top. Here annoyance of my friend we lost sight of Mother has her abode in a terrible form as the River Ganga. The river itself held him Kali. With her tiny body and over-sized face charmed, so we hurried through the dust she is enough to revolt the on-looker. Here, on to the banks of thy cool, clear and silent about 125 steps away is a lake called Gerua waters. There at a short distance stood Talab, the waters of which have an ochre that sanctum, which had beckoned to my colour. Pilgrims dye their clothes here. To friend who lived in Andhra. my friend, his Mother is soft and kind at times, angry and deformed at other times. Goddess Yet to him his Mother was worshipful. We realised that we had a long way to come It stood on an elevated ground. He entered up to his state. quivering, excited like a child going into the presence of its mother whom he had Ashtabhuja and the Krishna Legend not seen for a long time. Impatient, lost and entranced he walked ahead till he was About 1.5 km. from here is the temple of right in front of the figure of the Goddess Ashtabhuja. Some people call her seated on the Lion. Here she is called Saraswathi. At Vindhyavasini the image is Kaushiki. Memory stirred up a faint called Maha Lakshmi. Thus situated at the recollection of this name mentioned in the apices of a triangle are three temples Durga Sapta Sati (a book dedicated to the depicting the three aspects of the Mother: worship of the Mother). Here, in and about the terrible as Mother Kali, the benign

184 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA bestower of wealth as Maha Lakshmi and Three Beautiful Holy the giver of knowledge as Saraswathi. In the Dwapara Yuga, the tyrant Kamsa killed Centres of the North all his sister’s children for fear of their HARI MOHANLAL SRIVASTAVA dethroning him. Of these, the eighth child was the one destined to fulfil this role. Though the eighth child, a male was A rare blend of fervour and tolerance transferred to and a baby girl brought in its place, this tyrant was not ready to BUNDEL KHAND, a centre of personal risk this contingency, so he held the baby bravery and religious fervour, enjoys the by her leg and was about to hit her head glory of having a number of Pilgrim Centres on a rock when she escaped out of his pertaining to all sects and creeds. The most grip and came and dwelt here as notable feature is of excellent tolerance Ashtabhuja Devi. This is the legend that is being evinced by all normally and woven round this temple. particularly on special festive occasions.

Echoes of North and South Integrate the Datia between Bombay and Delhi Land Three beautiful places of pilgrimage in this To a devotee’s mind the most impossible district of Northern India deserve special legends are gospel truth. Every bit of it mention. These add to the glory of a tract was being absorbed by my friend, who I of ancient heritage, now known as Datia felt would in the end convert himself into district. Datia (25 degrees, 41 minutes a veritable Bhagavata himself. Now we north and 78 degrees, 30 minutes East), proceeded from this temple to a cave where the chief town was ruled in early days by we saw another shrine dedicated to Danta Vakra, a King of Karusha. Goddess Kali, near about where were tiny The old records mention that Danta Vakra chaplets and a large temple, a name-sake was killed by Krishna. Datia (980 feet above of the famous Rameswaram temple of the sea level) stands on the main line of Central South. Is this repetition of names a mere Railway from Bombay to Delhi between coincidence or a thoughtful reminder of the Jhansi and Gwalior and is 16 miles away essential unity of India? Nearby stands Ram from the former. Just a few miles away Gaya, where offerings are given in memory from Datia towards the East there is a of one’s ancestors. This then was our trip village named Gujarra. to one of the famous centres of Shakti A minor rock-edict of Asoka in this village worship, along with one whose life was a is an outstanding epigraphical discovery. perennial flow of devotional love for his Mentioning Asoka by his personal name and Mother, whose form he worshipped containing some important inscriptions, it regardless of its appearance. is second to the rock-edict at Maski. This rock edict bears ample testimony to the vital role of this tract during the days of

185 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Jain and Buddhist glory. The Sun God at Unas

Sona Giri’s Jain Temples Unao, a town on the Pahuj about 10 miles from Datia and 6 from Jhansi, is famous for Sona Giri is the next railway station towards its temple dedicated to the Sun God. Within Gwalior only six miles away from Datia. It the temple there is a circular piece of stone, is a city of Jain temples and is quite famous about six inches in diameter, with twenty in the distant parts of the country. one triangles engraved on the edge to Thousands of Jain Pilgrims from all over represent the phases of the sun. The dial India visit the place in all seasons of the with a protective brass cover stands on a year. But a five-day Annual Fair just after terrace of brick. There is a strong belief lends unique importance to this village, that the Deity has the power to cure skin which has a rich treasure of “Swarna Giri” diseases of all sorts. Hence sufferers from meaning a “Mount of Gold”. During Mela Leprosy, especially, resort at this Balaji the Mount attracts more than a lakh of temple, praying for relief. Sunday is a pilgrims of all ages in their gay and gaudy special day for worship. People from the dresses. surrounding regions flock to this place The idols at Sona Giri are older than Christ during a number of festivals as well. by some centuries, and are a fine piece of According to a legend Maharaj Marut sculpture belonging to that glorious age of performed a Yagna near Varanasi. The Jain culture. Muslim aggression forced the stone statue made for the Sun or the God people to hide these idols with ingenuity in of Fire lay there even after the Yagna. the depths of the hill. These were taken Anaar Singh Seora, a contemporary of out some time later when the storm of Sankaracharya and well versed in Tantric danger had calmed down. All sorts of temple Sciences brought the statue from Kasi and architecture, the chariot-like, the lotus- left it on the banks of Pahuj underneath a like and the spire type with various forms big peepal tree. After sometime two may be noticed here. brothers and a Kachhi had a dream and There are as many as 77 temples of the discovered the statue. In course of time Digambar Jains on the hill and 18 are below the rulers of Datia State erected a big it. Rays of the Sun, falling on conical temple there. prismatic and -like spires of snow- like temples lend a hue of gold, and the sight is worth enjoying. All the temples are rich with towers and the idols are both in sitting and standing postures. The temples of Chandra Prabhu is of great importance. Close by there is the Man Stambh, a great pillar, which seems to touch the sky.

186 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Madhya Pradesh Some of the best specimens of these are the temples at Udaypur, Khajuraho, Gwalior Pilgrim Spots in the Fort and Gyraspur. Heart of India UJJAIN

Rich in Monuments Ujjain can be reached from Bhopal by a 113-mile road, which passes through ADHYA PRADESH, in the heart of and Dewas. Ujjain and Bhopal are India, pulsates with the stream also connected by a railway line. Mformed by the union of the old and the new. More than 1,800 monuments, The Kshipra River temples, stupas, forts and palaces take the mind back to the distant past. Art, The beautiful city of Ujjain, which lies on architecture, sculpture, painting, music and the banks of the winding Kshipra river, is literature reached its pitch of excellence one of the holiest spots in India. According here. The stupas of with superb to legend, it was here that Siva, the God stone carvings, the mural paintings of Bagh of Destruction, vanquished a tyrant named Caves, the sculpture in Khajuraho are Tripura. Hundreds of thousands of Hindu unparalleled in the history of Indian art. pilgrims from all corners of the country visit India’s renowned poet dramatist, Kalidasa Ujjain every year and take a bath at the and the greatest musician of the North, picturesque ghats on the banks of the Tansen, lived in this land. This land is Kshipra. Once in twelve years the interspersed with mountains that rise up mammoth festival is held at like gentle folds from the plateau and raven Ujjain. The story of its origin is similar to by waterways, which run east-west. The that of Prometheus and other ancient main rivers are the Narmada and Tapti, legends concerning the fight between Good others are the Chambal, Betiva, Sendh, and Evil. and Indravati. Most of the rivers In the tussle between the forces of Good being rainfed, become rushing torrents in and Evil, drops of the divine nectar fell at the monsoon and shrink into mere rivulets four different places in India - Ujjain, in the summer. Hardwar, and Nasik. Twelve days Culturally, it was the seat of Imperial in heaven are equivalent to twelve years Guptas, under whom India entered the on the earth and the Kumbh Mela festival Golden Age of Indian History. The finest is held at each of the four cities in a twelve- products of this period were the Buddhist year cycle. Once in three years there is a cave temples and Hindu and Jain caves at Kumbh Mela in one of these cities. The Udayagiri. Temple building and its perfection last Kumbh Mela (festival) in Ujjain took seemed to have reached the zenith place in 1957 and was attended by more between the 8th.and 12th centuries, when than a million people. there was a clear transition of architectural There is a steady stream of pilgrim traffic forms from the flat roofs to the sphere. 187 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA to Ujjain throughout the year. Women through fancifully shaped conduits into dressed in bright-coloured pray on numerous tanks and then allowed to fall the banks of the Kshipra, burn , over sculptured stone screens. and throw into the river coconuts and About four miles from the city on the way flowers wrapped in red cloth. They feed to Kaliadeh Palace is the Bhartruhari Cave, lentils to the tortoises floating lazily in the the remnant of a temple of Siva of the river. Priests help pilgrims in offering prayers eleventh century. Near the cave is the site to the souls of their ancestors. of archaeological excavations, where the remains of ancient Ujjain are being The Maha Kali Temple unearthed. About two miles from the city is a hallowed Next to the bathing ghats ranks in sanctity spot marked by a temple where Lord the Temple, which is believed to Krishna, his brother Balram and his friend have been built several centuries ago. Sudama received instruction from Shri Destroyed in the thirteenth century, it was Sandipani, the celebrated teacher. Two restored in the eighteenth. The principal miles from the Ashram is Shri Mangalnath deity worshipped in the shrine is Siva. One Temple, marking the site of the first of the twelve holiest of lingas (Jyotirlinga) meridian for Hindu geographers. is found here in its precinct! Another attractive shrine is the Gopal The City of Joy Mandir in the heart of the market area. Built in 1833, this temple, dedicated to Mandu, “The City of Joy”, is situated on a Krishna, boast of a beautiful silver idol of 2,000 feet high plateau on the crest of the God and also of impressive doors made the Vindhya Mountain ranges and is of the same metal. The shrine is surmounted encircled on three sides by a deep gorge by an attractive marble spire. called the Kakra Koh (winding chasm). During the autumn, Mandu, clothed in The Kaliadeh Palace green, with turbulent rivers and torrents rushing down into the encircling ravine, The Kaliadeh Palace, situated six miles presents a magnificent spectacle. The north of the city on a picturesque island fertile Nimar plain stretching a thousand between the two arms of the Kshipra river, feet below the plateau, with winding was formerly used as a pleasure resort by waterways and smiling green fields, forms the Sultans of . It was originally a a most picturesque back-ground. Hindu temple dedicated to the Sun God. From 1401 to 1526, first the Ghoris and The carved stones of the old buildings have then the Khiljis ruled over Malwa, with been incorporated in the massive bridge, Mandu as their capital. This period which spans the western arm of the river. witnessed Mandu’s spectacular The palace contains interesting kiosks and development as “The City of Joy” under a pavilions. A pleasing feature is a system succession of great builders. The elaborate by which the waters of the river are led fortifications, the seven-storeyed tower of

188 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA victory, the marble Ashrafi Mahal, the great Dai-ka-Mahal Jami Mosque, Hoshang Shah’s Tomb and the magnificent Jahaz Mahal were built. Dai-ka-Mahal in fine natural settings near Sagar Talao is another interesting The Jama Masjid monument. Near the building on the road is an extremely interesting echo point. The Jama Masjid, designed after the great mosque at Damascus, is the most majestic Nilkanth Mahadev Temple building at Mandu and is said to be the finest and largest specimen of Afghan This temple astride a deep gorge commands architecture extant in India. Completed in the best view in Mandu. A small stream 1450, the mosque is 288. feet square, with which murmurs somewhere at the back of a huge domed porch projecting from the the building is guided into a small pond in eastern facade. Stately flights of steps the centre of the courtyard, which lead to the entrance. The marble jambs overlooks the gorge. Here stayed and lintel of the door-way are noteworthy on his way to the conquest of Khandesh for their decoration as are the jali screens and again on return from there. on the sides of the interior hall of the porch. Appropriately enough, inscribed on the wall Traces of finely coloured borders and here is a warning to those intoxicated with panels in glazed tile are still to be found. wealth and power. The roof contains sixty-one domes, three of which are of immense size. The western Omkarji prayer hall has a large number of arches and pillars supporting the roof and along Omkarji is five miles from the Omkareshwar the western wall are carvings on polished Road railway station which is on the Indore- black stone. Facing the mosque are the railway line. From Mandu, ruins of Ashraf Mahal (Palace of Gold Omkareshwar can be reached through Mohur), which was originally a school, and Mhow. later converted into the tomb of its builder, Mahmud Shah (1436- 39), whose Mandhata and the Siva Temples sarcophagus was placed on a finely carved yellow marble base. The walls were finished The holy city of Omkarji, otherwise called with white, yellow and black marble. A Mandhata, boasts of two of the twelve “Tower of Victory” was later constructed holiest temples dedicated to Siva. Situated north-east of the school building to on an island, a mile and a half long, in the commemorate the ruler’s victory over the middle of the sacred . Omkarji Rana of Chittor. The seven-storeyed tower is split into two by a deep ravine from north is believed to have been 150 feet high. to south. Steep hills dot the southern and Because of poor workmanship, all the three eastern parts of the island. The swift and buildings crumbled, but their ruins are still deep river is a haunt of crocodiles. The impressive. rocks have a tint of green, which blends

189 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA beautifully with the dark green foliage and figures of Vishnu. In a- ravine, farther down the brown and grey temples which rise in the bank, is a huge idol (18t feet long) of rows. The Birkhala rocks to the east end the Goddess Chamundi. The ten-armed of the island are of great sanctity. deity is shown sporting with lion cubs and According to tradition, it was considered human skulls. On her chest is a scorpion meritorious to die at this spot and devotees and at her right a rat. She rests one foot used to cast themselves into the river, until on a prostrate figure. the practice was ended in 1824. A big fair is held here on the occasion of The founder of the holy shrine was one the Maha Shivarathri festival in February- Raja Mandhatri, who claimed descent from March and another on the occasion of the Sun. Mandhatri performed a great Kartik (full-moon) festival in sacrifice to Siva on the island which was November. named after the king. The great temple of Omkar on the Birkhala JABALPUR rocks is a picturesque building with a court- yard and colonnades supported by massive One of the most famous scenic spots in pillars. The original shrine of Amleswar or India, the Marble Rocks, is located thirteen Manileswar, which contains the specially miles from Jabalpur. holy is on the southern part of the island. The original site was swallowed by Bhera Ghat the growing jungle. The Peshwa, Rao II of Poona, tried to find and restore the The Marble Rocks, also called the Bhera shrine, but could not do so, and built a Ghat, are connected to Jabalpur by a first new temple. The original site was later class road. Four and a half miles from found and a temple built over it, but Jabalpur enroute to the Marble Rocks, Peshwa’s shrine retains the name of perched on the crest of a rocky eminence Manileswar. There is a colossal Nandi (bull) is the Madan Mahal, a fine fortress of the carved in green stone in front of the Gauri Gond kings. From the top of Madan Mahal Somnath Temple on the precipice on the can be obtained a panoramic view of western part of the island. Jabalpur. At Bhera Ghat, the road terminates near Other Spots in Ruins the 107 carved stone steps leading to the Chaunsath temple. This circular On the north bank of the Narmada, a short cloister contains 81 images of the distance from Omkarji, are ruins of temples goddesses attendant on Durga and a few dedicated to Lord Vishnu and also, some images of Gods. Most of them date back Jain shrines. There is a temple dedicated to the 10th century, when they were to Varaha (boar) incarnation of Vishnu, with worshipped in an open-air shrine. a fine representation of the boar near the The embarkation point (Panchavati) for a point where the river branches into two. boat trip through the Marble Rocks is Carved in green stone are twenty-four reached by climbing down 135 steps. There

190 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA is a Government-run boat service, each boat being manned by a pilot and four men to row.

The Torrential Narmada

The one-mile long gorge through which the torrential Narmada river flows is bordered on both sides by brilliantly shining white cliffs of magnesium limestone, which rise up to a height of 105 feet. The view is especially enchanting during the full moon. Near the entrance to the gorge is a point known as Monkey’s Leap. Here the cliffs on both sides very nearly reach their highest point. The crystal clear water which reaches to a depth of 150 feet, reflects the gleaming white rocks beautifully. In the distance, an occasional crocodile may be observed dozing. In the recesses of the cliffs are combs of wild bees which are now periodically destroyed. At a slightly removed distance from the embarkation point (Panchavati) in the middle of the river is a Lingam dedicated and takes the tree-lined, six-furlong path to Siva erected by Rani Ahalya Bai of Indore. to the waterfalls. The falls are known as Just before the Monkey’s Leap is reached, the Dhuandhar or smoke cascade, and are on the right side, is a cave said to have very picturesque. The Narmada is a holy been inhabited by the Hindu sage river and there are several Dharmasalas Dattatreya. Near the end of the gorge are (rest houses) for pilgrims. On the river two curious formations of rocks known as banks, pilgrims from all parts of India gather the Elephant’s Feet and Horse’s Feet. Here to offer prayers. swift streams have cut the limestone into peculiar shapes. The gorge ends in a barrier UDAIGIRI of rocks, from which the river cascades in a magnificent waterfall. Although the Of the twenty caves numbered serially, predominant colour of the rocks is white, 1-20 belong to the Jain faith. There are a there are also delicate lints of blue, yellow few interesting idols of Jain Pontiffs in cave and pink, which add greatly to the charm No. 20. The other caves are all the Hindu of the view. Returning to the embarkation faith. The most important cave, No. 5, has point, the tor climbs the steep staircase on its wall a majestic representaion of the

191 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Varaha (boar) incarnation of Vishnu. The sunset and in the early morning before legend is that the Earth goddess had been sunrise. Precipitou Chauragarh (4,317 feet), abducted by a tyrant who hid her in the a somewhat arduous ascent, has a rugged depths of the ocean. Lord Vishnu went and imposing appearance, while the stepped down into the sea and rescued her. The path to its sacred summit is crowned with gigantic rock-carving shows Vishnu, with numerous tridents, the emblems of the head of a boar and body of a man, Mahadeo, deposited in devotion by pilgrims arising out of the ocean. With his right over the centuries. But the finest of the tusk he raises the frail figure Prithvi the views is that from Mahadeo (4,384 feet), goddess, while with his left foot tramples the second largest peak, 6 miles from on a wicked tyrant. The waters the ocean Pachmarhi. To its one side rise the crags are represented by wavy lines in the of Chauragarh and to the other the splendid background. At the top, on both of these, scraps of Dhupgarh. While far below lies are represented Devas and Asuras teaching the green Denwa Valley backed by the the event with interest and devotion. sunny hills and dales of Chhindwara, to the north arc the woods and plateau of BHOPAL Pachmarhi and beyond this the broad level plain of the Narmada, broken only by the Twenty-four miles from Bhopal, on the hills of Fatehpur and Denwa forests fading Bhopal-Obedullaganj Road is the famous away into the shadowy outline of the Siva temple of Bhojpur. This incomplete Vindhya Hills. temple consists of a huge, beautifully carved slabs of purple sandstone joined MAHOBA together without the use of mortar. The temple is Romanesque in grandeur and the At Mahoba, there is a holy pool called the visitor is impressed by the holiness of those Ram Kund, which marks the spot where who conceived it. The Siva Linga in the Chandravarman (Nannukar), the founder of temple is 7’4” in height and has a radius of the Chandella Dynasty, died. A stone pillar 17’4”. The polish on the linga is intact. in front of the Mania Deva Temple has an inscription dating back to the 11th century. DHUPGARH Near the Madan Sagar is another stone pillar called the “Alha ki Gilli” or the Staff of Dhupgarh (4,429 feet), the highest point Alha, a hero who frequently figures in the on the Satpura Range, about 5 miles from songs of Rajput bards. Pachmarhi, is the most frequently ascended peak. The first four miles are motorable, and then two bridle paths take the visitor to the dak bungalow which has been built near the top. To the west, Dhupgarh overlooks the Bori Valley and the Betul Hills and the view is particularly magnificent at

192 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Khajuraho rulers of the Chandella Dynasty appear to have been worshippers of Vishnu. The later rulers were devotees of Siva. Shrines dedicated to both these Gods are to be The Hey-day of Chandellas’ Rule in found at Khajuraho. The Chandellas were tolerant towards members of other faiths and some of the notable structures erected HAJURAHO reached its zenith under at Khajuraho were dedicated to Jain the Chandellas, who ruled over Tirthankaras. A colossal statue of the Central India from the ninth to the K Buddha was found outside the Ghantai thirteenth centuries. The Chandellas were Temple and is now kept in the local Hindus belonging to a Rajput clan. They museum. claimed that they were descended from the Moon. The kings of this dynasty were Epigraphic Accounts noted for their enterprise in the construction of reservoirs and other Yasovarman (first half of the tenth century) utilitarian undertakings. was the first notable monarch of the The Chandellas built the magnificent Chandella Dynasty. A Khajuraho epigraph temples which attract the pilgrim-tourist dated 953-54 A.D. states that Yasovarman today. Out of 85, which existed at one conquered the mountain vastness of time, only 20 now survive. They were built Kalinjar and defeated his neighbours. He between 950 and 1050 A.D. The first few erected a charming, splendid home of

193 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Vishnu which rivals the peaks of the Surface Decorations : The Khajuraho mountain of snow. This temple has been temples are famed not only for their beauty identified with the Lakshmana Temple. of outline but also for the lively texture of Yasovarman’s son, (950-1008 A.D.) their surface decoration. Many temples was another famed warrior. According to have two or three bands of sculptures an inscription, he “obtained an empire” after running all around the exterior of walls and defeating the Maharaja of Kanauj. An outside the sanctum. The principal gods inscription, found at the Visvanatha Temple and goddesses are portrayed, as also states that Dhanga erected a shrine “with celestial beauties, Mithunas (couples), a spire as white as the autumnal clouds” Nagas (serpents), Sardulas (Ieogriffs) and to house an emerald lingam dedicated to Salabhanjikas (women sporting with trees). Siva. Vidyadhara, Dhanga’s grandson was described by a Muslim chronicler, as the Erotic Figures most powerful Indian ruler of his time. In 1022, Mahmud of Ghazni besieged the The visitor will notice that a popular subject Kalinjar fortress, “which has no equal in is the representation of couples in a variety the whole country of Hindustan for strength of erotic poses. Should a temple contain and impregnability” and defeated these figures? How is eroticism compatible Vidyadhara. After this, Khajuraho’s with Divinity? Several points of view have importance declined. been urged in explanation. One is that in the context of the omnipresent and the An Architectural Synthesis All-Pure, nothing can really be obscene or profane. Human thinking, which sees The shrines at Khajuraho are individual in obscenity in art, can and ought to be character and are different from those in sublimated into superior forms and channels. any other part of India. Each temple stands Especially this is possible and necessary in on a high and solid masonry terrace. The the approaches to temples. customary enclosure wall is absent. All the Temples of old were not only store-houses parts of a temple form a compact of culture but served also as centres of architectural synthesis. The successive all-round education, where even the mantapas (assembly halls) leading to the apparently profane acquired a spiritual cell, where the main idol is installed, share orientation. May it not be that such a common high base and their roofs, which sculptures of superficial vulgarity in temple- are domical in contour, give the appearance precincts are conducive to a preparatory of successive mountain peaks. They cleansing and purging of the mind? culminate in a graceful Sikhara(spire) crowning the cell. ‘Sikhara’ means ‘mountain Studded with Temples - East and West peak’. It symbolises the mountain abode of the Gods. Is not Siva’s abode on the The temples are in three groups. To the top of Mount Kailasa in the Himalayas? west of the Bamitha-Rajnagar Road is situated the best-known group of temples

194 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA at Khajuraho. The eastern group lies in main shrine is in fine condition and impresses close proximity to the Khajuraho village. the beholders by its majestic size and the There is a further group of temples three perfect symmetry of features. The shrine miles to the south. is dedicated to Siva. It might be convenient for the tourist to commence with the Chaunsat Yogini at its Best Temple of the western group. It is believed that the temple was dedicated to the Almost every inch of the surface of its walls goddess Kali ; “ Chaunsat” means 64 and boasts of the most vibrant representation this corresponds with the number of of Hindu art at its best. At the entrance is “” attending on Kali. The temple is a richly carved (archway), oblong in shape and stands on a masonry decorated with figures of various kinds; terrace 18 feet in height. It is the only musicians playing on different kinds of shrine at Khajuraho built entirely of granite instruments, terrifying crocodiles, lovers in and also the only one oriented north-east fond embrace and winged gods and and south-west instead of the usual north goddesses. The ceilings of the assembly and south. The courtyard, which is 103 halls and that of the main hall make an feet long and 60 feet broad, was unforgettable impression by the richness surrounded by 65 cells of which only 35 of their carvings. The concentric have survived the passage of time. It is overlapping circles of decoration on the presumed that the biggest cell had an ceiling of the main hall form an interesting image of the goddess Kali, but none has pattern. The pillars supporting the ceiling been found. This is believed to be the have finely carved capitals. Especially earliest surviving temple at Khajuraho and noteworthy are the grotesque dwarfs and is ascribed to Circa 900 A.D. rampant gryphons. The women in the Six hundred yards to the west of the bracket capitals are very lovely. They have Chaunsat Yogini Temple is a small shrine well-shaped figures and their faces reveal dedicated to Siva and known as the a mood of intense emotional feeling. Lalguan Mahadeva Temple. The temple is Beautiful flowers and ascetics performing in ruins and the original portico is missing. penance are depicted with equal facility on the lintel and door-jambs of the The Kandariya Mahadeva Temple sanctum. The sacred rivers Ganga (Ganges) and Yamuna (Jamuna ) are worshipped by To the north of the Chaunsat Yogini Temple the Hindus and regarded as goddesses. The lies the Kandariya Mahadeva Temple, the base of the doorjambs of the main sanctum biggest of the shrines at Khajuraho and shows the goddess Ganga standing on a the most typical of the local school of crocodile and the goddess Yamuna on a ‘architecture. This magnificent shrine is 102 tortoise, their respective vehicles. Inside ft. 3 in. long, 66 ft. 10 in. wide and 101 ft. the sanctum stands a marble lingam, the 9 in. high. Although four subsidiary temples symbol of Siva. erected on its corners have perished, the The passage which encircles the sanctum

195 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA is notable for the elaborately moulded plinth scenes, royal processions, dances by lovely on the outside wall which is decorated with girls and fights between mad elephants. two rows of figures. Each of the eight There is an image of Vishnu in the central directions (north, north-east etc.) has a niche to the south of the sanctum. The deity presiding over it and these eight gods Lord is shown with eleven heads. The are portrayed on the lower row. central head is his own, while the rest The outside walls of the sanctum and the represent his ten incarnations. transept have a triple belt of images running around them. These show angels, gods and Viswanatha Temple goddesses in their various forms and groups of lovers. The Viswanatha Temple with the Nandi pavilion stands in the most northerly part Devi Jagadamba Temple of the eastern row of temples in the western group. There are two flights of To the north of Kandariya Temple lies the steps, the northern flanked by a pair of Devi Jagadamba Temple, which was lions and the southern by a pair of originally dedicated to Vishnu, but was later elephants. The Viswanatha Temple mistakenly regarded as a shrine of the measures 89 ft. 1 in. by 45 ft. 10 in and is goddess Kali. Sometime in the course of similar in plan to the Kandariya Mahadeo history, the original image of Vishnu appears Temple. The women in the bracket-capitals to have been removed and a black painted are charming. On the outer wall of the image of a goddess was substituted. On corridor surrounding the cellar is an the way to the Jagadamba Temple is the impressive image of Brahma, the Lord of ruined shrine of Mahadeva. In the portico Creation, who has three heads and his wife is a beautiful idol of a leogriffin (a hybrid (now seen with broken legs). There is a figure partly lion) playing with a woman. fine statue of Siva in the form of an ox on the inner wall of the corridor. Originally, Bharatji Temple the Lingam enshrined in the sanctum was of emerald. It has been replaced by one of ’s or Bharatji’s Temple, which stone. lies a short distance to the north of Devi Jagadamba and like most other shrines at Figures of Artistic Grace Khajuraho faces east, is dedicated to Surya or the Sun God. The temple measures 74 On the western part of the outside wall of ft. 9 in. by 51 it. The 5-feet high image of the temple is the graceful figure of a woman the Sun God in the sanctum is extremely holding a bunch of fruits in her right hand beautiful. The Sun God is shown wearing and a parrot resting on her left wrist. She high boots and driving a chariot drawn by has an almost life-like quality. On the 7 horses. He is also portrayed on the lintel southern wall is a woman fondling a child of the door-way. The carvings on the and on the north a woman playing on a outside are interesting and show hunting flute. An inscription found on the wall of

196 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA the temple records that the shrine was festival, which occurs in a twelve-year built by King Dhanga and dedicated in cycle at Ujjain, Nasik, Allahabad and 1002-03 A.D. Hardwar, commemorates this war. The Nandi pavilion measures 31 ft. 3 in. by Another relief on the door-way shows the 30 ft. 9 in. and faces the Viswanatha shrine. ten incarnations of Vishnu. Vishnu assumed It contains a finely polished gigantic statue human form to rid the world of the wicked of Nandi, the bull on which Siva rides. The and establish the reign of righteousness. bull is 6 ft. in height and 7 ft. 3 in. long. Among the incarnations were those of the The Parvati Temple, to the south-west of Fish, the Tortoise, the Boar, the Man-lion, the Viswanatha shrine, is believed to have the Dwarf and Trivikrama, Parasurama, been originally dedicated to Vishnu. The Rama (the hero of the epic Ramayana), original idol is missing. In its place there is Krishna (perhaps, the most popular Hindu now that of the goddess Ganga standing deity) and of the Buddha. In , his final on a crocodile. incarnation, which is yet to come, Vishnu is to appear riding a white horse with a Temple with Four Shrines and sword drawn in his hand. All these figures Decorated Entrance are depicted here. The idol installed in the sanctum of the The Lakshmana (Ramachandra or Lakshmana Temple has four arms Chaturbhuja) Temple is dedicated to Vishnu. (Chaturbhuja) and three heads, somewhat It measures 98 ft. by 45 ft. 3 in. There are rare as an icon. The middle head is human, four subordinate shrines on the corners of while the side ones are those of Narasimha the terrace. The main sanctum is (man- lion) and Varaha (boar), two noteworthy for its highly decorated incarnations of Vishnu. On the outside are entrance. The lintel over the entrance two rows of statues. The elephant frieze shows Lakshmi, the Goddess of Wealth and on the plinth is remarkable for the boldness the wife of Vishnu with Brahma, the Lord of its outline. Other scenes depict fighting, of Creation, to her left and Siva, the Lord processions, horses and boar-hunting. of Destruction, to her right. The nine planets are depicted on the frieze Other Temples above the lintel. On the door-way is a relief illustrating the churning of the ocean by The Matangesvara at the shrine to the the gods and demons to obtain the divine south of the Lakshmana shrine, is still nectar, which conferred immortality on worshipped. A colossal lingam, 8 feet 4 those who drank it. Although both the gods inches in height and 3 feet 8 inches in and the demons co-operated in bringing diameter, is installed in the sanctum. out the kumbh (pitcher) containing the The Varaha Temple, situated in front of nectar from its deep resting place at the the Matangesvara Temple, is dedicated to bottom of the ocean, they fought with one the Boar incarnation of Vishnu. The huge another afterwards. The war ended in statue of the Boar is 8 feet 9 inches in victory for the gods. The kumbhmela length and 5 feet 9 inches in height. The

197 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA entire body, head and legs of the Boar are of Khajuraho village. It is now in ruins, but carved with multiple figures of the Hindu still bears evidence of the great artistic gods and goddesses. The figure of Prithvi, skin of its builders. An eight-armed Jain the Earth Goddess, is broken and only goddess riding the sacred bird Garuda traces of her feet remain on the pedestal. adorns the entrance. The frieze above the Under the Boar are the remains of a lintel depicts the sixteen dreams of the serpent. mother of Mahavira, the last of the Jain The tourist may now proceed to the eastern Tirthankaras. group of temples which lie in close proximity to Khajuraho village. The group includes Jain Temples three Hindu temples known as the Brahma, Vamana and Javari and three large Jain The Parsvanatha Temple, the largest and temples, the Ghantai, Adinatha and finest of the Jain temples surviving at Parsvanatha. Khajuraho is 68 feet 2 inches long and 34 A colossal statue of Hanuman is installed feet 11 inches broad. The sanctum in a modern temple about half-way between contains an ornamental throne with a the western group of temples and carved bull in front. The bull is the emblem Khajuraho village. It bears an inscription of Adinatha, the first of the Jain religious dated 922 A.D., the oldest inscription at leaders. The modern image of Parsvanatha Khajuraho. was installed in 1860. There are excellent The Brahma Temple, built partly of granite sculptures on the outer walls of the and partly of sandstone, is, dedicated to sanctum; a woman fondling a child, a Brahma, Lord of Creation. woman writing a letter, a little figure The Vamana Temple is dedicated to Vishnu, extracting a thorn from, her foot, and a who took the incarnation of a dwarf to woman at her toilet, all of exquisite beauty humble the pride of an arrogant ruler named and on the northern side. Bali. The Dwarf begged of Bali, who had The Adinatha Temple is located immediately challenged the power of the gods, to give to the north of the Parsvanatha Temple him a small gift of land that could be and is smaller in size. measured out with his three footsteps. Bali The Southern Group, about 3 miles from proudly laughing granted the request. Then Khajuraho village, comprises the Duladeo Vishnu assumed the Trivikrama form, Temple dedicated to Siva and the whereby his body assumed an immeasurably Chaturbhuja Temple dedicated to Vishnu. gigantic size. With one step he covered The has some fine bracket- the whole of the earth. With another he capitals in its main wall showing women covered the heavens and then asked where sporting around trees. The Chaturbhuja he should place his third step. Bali, Temple has a colossal exquisitely carved humbled, pointed to his own head and was image of Vishnu. thus saved. The temple is noted for two bands of sculptures on the external walls. The lies to the South-east

198 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Abu marble, among a group of four temples situated in a cluster, is famous for its rich (Temples of Dilwada) art and Jain architecture. As regards the H. BHISHAM PAL construction of this magnificent shrine a legend relates it as follows; once upon a BU has been placed on the map, time, the great Jain monk Dharamaghosha more because of its famous temples Suri came to Chandrawati and at Vimala’s Aof Dilwada than as a . request decided to spend the rainy season The grandeur of these temples and in this lovely city. sculptural skill of the masons remind us of The day to day preachings of the monk their mastery over the chisel as well as led Vimala into deeply religious thoughts.: their imagination. There is hardly any portion Vimal ultimately requested the teacher to of roof, gate, torana and sabhamantapa, prescribe to him some act of atonement left without a mark of artistic perfection. for the great sins of killing (himsa) and In the words of K. M. Munshi, ‘the Dilwada such others committed as part of temples on Mount Abu were the statecraft. The monk said that no outstanding productions of the western prayaschitta (religious practices for school in its Jain aspect. They are not atonement of sins) was prescribed for sins monuments of architecture, but are committed knowingly and deliberately. sculptural masterpieces, used to fashion However, since Vimal had sincerely repented one of the sculptural wonders of the world’. for them and asked for atonement, the According to inscriptions and historical teacher advised him to undertake repairs records, Abu was a centre of the Naga at Abu, the holy place of pilgrimage. Vimal tribe in 600-800 B.C. The Mahabharata decided to follow the advice and undertook refers to the ashram of Saint Vashist at the great task. Abu. According to Jain inscriptions, Lord According to an another legend, the Mahavira also visited this place and blessed Goddess Ambika was pleased with the deep the inhabitants. Megasthenes has also devotion and virtues of Vimal Shah and referred to Abu and noticed gold and silver asked him to name a boon. Being issueless, mines near Mount Capitalia. The famous Vimal asked for a son to help in the building temples at Dilwada at Mount Abu are of a magnificent temple. The goddess told situated about twenty miles from the Abu him that only one of his desires could be Road railway station. fulfilled and asked for his preference. The minister was puzzled very much. On the Vimal Vasa hi Temple advice of his wife, he asked for the fulfilment of his second desire to perpetuate This temple was constructed by Vimal Shah, his name by building the beautiful structure. Minister of Raja Bhimdeo in 1021 A.D. at a It is said that Vimal Shah had to pay a cost of about nineteen crores of rupees at very heavy price to get the land for the that time. Vimal Vasahi temple built in white temple from the Brahmin owners. It is said that he had to pay the gold coins equal to

199 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA the area of the land. legends including Satrunjaya Mahatmya. A The temple site which is 98 feet long and notable feature of the decoration is the 42 feet wide is surrounded by a lofty wall exuberance of detail and effective with 52 cells, each of which contains the repetition of the same motif. It is a image of a Tirthankar. Most of these have remarkable example of tireless inventiveness now been replaced. In the main shrine is in sculptured decoration. In his book, Saga installed a majestic image of Adinath, cast of Indian Sculpture, K. M. Munshi says: in gold-brass alloy, about 57 inches high. “There is a perfection of detail in these During later renovations, the stone sculpture of Jina was installed, which exists till today. The cells are screened by an arcade of carved pillars. A pavilion facing the entrance porch contains a procession of marble elephants, each bearing a statue of Vimal Shah and his family. This Hastishala was constructed by Prithvipal in the year 1147-49 A.D. A statue of Vimal riding a horse is placed near the entrance. Most of the figures which were of the ancestors of Prithvipal are now mutilated. The temple consists of an open portico and a vestibule formed by a simple grouping of pillars. The octagonal dome of the shrine is formed figures and their composition is unique. But, by eleven concentric rings containing as is usual in Jain temples, the sensual patterns of endless variety and is upheld beauty of the human body is toned down by eight carved columns. A series of sixteen in the interests of a rounded stiffness. The brackets of beaming images of the Goddess rhythm of the lines is exquisite, but vigour of Knowledge supports the rings of the is subordinated to refinement.” What Percy dome. The intricately carved railings Brown says of the sculptures of the Abu illustrate incidents from Jain literature and temples is true of most of the sculptures

200 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA of the western school of the period. There It is noteworthy that the Chaumukha shrine is a sense of perfection, but it is a in the group of Dilwada temples, erected mechanical perfection, with an over- in the 15th century A.D., is pretty high, refinement and concentration on details. though of an inferior workmanship. But in The decadence of the art of the times that age conditions had stabilised a little, made exuberance a geometrical problem, and people could erect temples or which is substituted for beauty. In the year magnificent, unique architectural 1327 A.D., this temple was renovated by specimens like the Chaumukha shrine in two rich men Lull and Bizzar, after it was Ranakpur at huge costs.” ransacked by the Muslim invaders. A visitor can distinctly notice the contrast Luna Vasahi Temple between decoration and ornamentation on outer parts like navachoki, mantapa and In the year 1230 A.D., Vastupal and his cells in the courtyard and simple brother Tejpal, ministers of Viradhawala, architecture of inner sanctum and built another famous temple at Mt. Abu. mantapas in front. Simplicity of the and installed the image of the twenty- sikharas, in comparison to other second Tirthankar, Shri Neminathji. It is also contemporary temples of India, leads one said that this shrine was constructed by to analyse the circumstances which Tejpal for the spiritual welfare of his wife compelled such erections. Destruction of Anupamadevi and his son Lunasimha. A these shrines by invaders and paucity of beautiful big image, made of the black funds with the renovators seem to be the basalt, adorns this magnificent temple. Like main reasons behind construction of these Vimal Vasahi temple, it had dome-shaped parts. Another reason advanced for such sabhamantapa with small cells on the right low pinnacles is frequent occurrence of side. The roof of this temple is beautifully earthquakes in Mt. Abu in the past. engraved with reliefs relating to Jainism. According to an observer, “ ... whatever Animate and inanimate objects are so the cause of the destruction of the earlier perfectly engraved that one cannot but pinnacles may be, and whatever their praise the architect of this temple, Sobhana original size, the later repairers could not Dev. spend enough, obviously because Muslim The impact of architectural competence invasions and loot had rendered these parts of Kirti Stambh of Chittorgarh is visible in poorer; the cultural and artistic activities the pillars. The engraving on sabha- had also degenerated due to uncertain mantapa roofs and pillars is enchanting and social and political conditions- created by is an example of perfection. Another striking successive invasions of internal warfare feature of this temple is the pendant of (between different petty states). Moreover, the dome which, according to Fergusson, successive demolitions of these shrines “hangs from the centre more like a lustre might have led the people to build small of crystal drops than a solid mass of temple tops in order that the shrines may marble”. not be easily marked out from a distance. The Hastishala or elephant house of this

201 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA temple is a structure to be specially images at each storey, is assessed around mentioned. Each of the ten apartments has 15th century. Built with grey stone, the got an elephant made of white marble. temple, with its high pinnacle, is the tallest These are the rare pieces of art, beautifully of all the shrines existing at Delwada. There and proportionately carved and shiningly are four mantapas adjoining the sanctum. polished. On each elephant there is one The outer walls are engraved with deities shravak with mahout in front and umbrella- of the Jain religion. In all there are fifty- bearer in the back. The figures are all seven parikara figures in the temple, mutilated and have lost their identity. besides three Chaumukhas and a sculpture Behind these elephants are the life- size of the Goddess Ambika on the ground floor. images of the builders and their relatives. The Chaumukhji in black stone stands in Other Temples the centre. In the south of Dilwada are the ruins of Pittalhara Temple the temples, which reveal the influence of Hinduism. Numerous images of Shankar and Constructed by Bhima Shaha in the 14th an idol of Hanuman are exhibited in this century at Abu, the Pittalhara Temple was temple of Kumari Kanya (Virgin girl). dedicated to Adinath. The name Pittalhara Abu bas been one of the main centres for was perhaps given to the image of Adinath, the perpetuation of the skill of the Hindu because it was cast in brass. This idol, and Jain architects. Besides Delwada, there weighing 108 maunds and 41 inches high, are other temples of Achleshwar at was prepared by two ministers, Sundara Achalgarh, about six miles away, where and Gada. They employed the famous artist Rana Kumbba of Mewar had sought shelter called Deva, son of Sutradhara Mandana for some time. The Siva Temple of Orian, for this purpose. Other images of the an abode of Dattu Briz Ganpati, is the place Tirthankars, though small in size, adorn the where Ramanand in the 14th century temple. This shrine, con-consisting of meditated before launching his reform Garbagraha, Guha-mantapa and Navachoki, movement. The temple of Vashist is not so exuberant in carving and style as constructed in 1337 A.D. by Mahadev Vimalavasahi temple. There are also small Pardhi is another shrine depicting the cells with shrines, each representing some artistic skill of . The deity. image of Paramar, supposed to be that of Indra, is noteworthy.

Chaumukha Temple

The Chaumukha Temple, known as Kharatara Vasahi Temple, is dedicated to Parshvanath. The erection date of this three-storeyed temple with four-fold

202 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Pushkar-The Purifier place where Brahma performed a Yajna. We find references to Pushkar in the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. Pushkar, incidentally, is perhaps the only USHKAR is one of the five holiest place in India where there is a temple places of the northern India, the dedicated to Brahma, the Creator, one of other four being Kurushetra, Gaya, P the Trinity. It is said that, without bathing Ganga and the Sangam at Prayag, It is in the sacred waters of Pushkar, one cannot situated in a scenic valley of the Aravali get the full benefit of visiting the other Mountains, 11 km. north-west of Ajmer and four principal Hindu places of pilgrimage: is connected by a road, which treks lawn Badrinath (in the Himalayas), Puri (in parallel to the Ana Sagar and then rosses Orissa), Rameswaram (at the southern tip over the Nag Parvat. of India) and Dwaraka (in Saurashtra). Because of that yajna, Pushkar became Ekadasi and Purnima - Special the holiest place on the face of the earth, Occasions and those who went there were absolved of not only their sins but attained salvation. Every full-moon draws thousands of Hindus a Pushkar, who come and take a dip in the The Township Turns into a Riot of Colour holy tank, and worship the Lord Brahma and other deities. Another auspicious In the month of Kartik, a great fair is held occasion falls between Vaisakh Shukla at Pushkar. On the occasion of the fair, Ekadasi and the Purnima, when a fair is the township of Pushkar turns into a riot also held. But the most important and holy of colour. People from all parts of event is during Kartik Shukla between arrive in their thousands to take a dip in Ekadasi and the full-moon, when devotees the lake and offer puja in the numerous from all over India converge at this place. temples, including the one dedicated to Brahma. Temple Dedicated to Brahma History has recorded that the temples at Pushkar were destroyed by fanatics of an Pushkar has been mentioned in the Srishti alien faith. But the faith of the people at Chand of the Padma Purana as having been Pushkar did not diminish in the least, and founded by Brahma, the Creator. He once Gokulchand Parekh, a minister of Daulat thought of performing a yajna on the earth Rao Scindia, built a new temple at a cost and looked for a suitable spot. He dropped of Rs. 1.30 lakh on the site where a sacrifice a lotus from the heaven which fell here was performed. and its three petals flew around in different directions. Therefore, there are three A Legendary Explanation Pushkars in this vicinity - the Elder, the Middle and the Younger Pushkar. Pushkar The four-armed life-size icon of Brahma- is a place of unquestionable antiquity. It is God of Creation - stands in Mantralaya. referred to in the Padma Purana, as the 203 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA The steps and the floors of the temple are divine presence. studded with the silver rupees, donated by the worshippers. “It is remarkable” says Pushkar’s Forgotten Glory Revived Kanwar Lal, “that the worship of Brahma who was originally a deity of supreme Pushkar had been forgotten for several importance should have almost wholly died centuries. It was restored in 1114 Vikram out. Why should his worship alone become by Nahar Rao Parihar, who had a tank dug a phenomenon of such rarity?” A there. The Gurjar-Gaur priests were the satisfactory argument, however, is that Brahma as the creative force had, of necessity, to lie dormant while the universe passed through the phases of sustenance and protection against the ravages of time, of maintenance till final dissolution. Till the beginning of the next cycle of creation, the gods that really mattered were, obviously Vishnu the people, who dug the tank and their preserver and Shiva the Destroyer. The descendents are still known as Pushkarna clash and conflict and, therefore, the issue . The tank dried up and got silted of human happiness and sorrow, the fate in later days and was again cleaned and of mankind lay during the intervening period restored on the suggestion of the President between creation and destruction, with of Indian Republic in 1974. It has been these two deities. The result was that connected through a 32-feet wide - 8 feet barring an individual here or a group there, deep and a mile-long channel to the who might indulge in his worship for the feeders, from a hill reservoir nearby, and is sake of worship, the rest of mankind could now brimming with crystal clear water. neither be expected to take nor did take The Pushkar tank is oval in shape and has any interest in a god, who was, for all 52 ghats on the bank around it. Varaha practical purposes, defunct. His worship, and Brahma are the most important ones. therefore, came to be limited to this place, In 1911, the then Queen Mary of England Pushkar, which he had chosen to abide in and the present Queen Mother built a and which thus acquired its legitimate Ladies Ghat here. A part of Mahatma sanctity through the permanence of his Gandhi’s last remains were immersed at this

204 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA place in 1948, and since then it has been carvings. This was also built and decorated known as the Gandhi Ghat. In the mornings by South Indian masons brought specially and evenings homage is paid to the deities. for the purpose. Arati is performed. In the evenings earthen lamps are lit and set afloat in the tank and Mahadev Temple this presents a unique sight. During the Kartika festival, lakhs of people assemble In praise of the modern temple of Mahadev here before the dawn and go round the at Pushkar, Col. Broughton writes - “Of the temples to worship. modern temples, the one dedicated to Besides the Brahma Temple, which is the Mahadev, is by far the most remarkable, only one dedicated wholly to him in the for the elegance of its structure and the whole world, there are more than 400 nature of its ornaments, of all the temples shrines and temples in and around Pushkar. that Pushkar boasts of.” It was built by This temple was primarily built by Adi Annaji Scindia of Gwalior. The white marble Shankaracharya but was pulled down by image has five faces, each one crowned in 1705. It was renovated by a with Jata (matted hair) . pious lady from in 1719 and again rebuilt by Gokulchand Parekh, a minister of Rangji Temple Daulat Rao Scindia. The other famous shrines are Gaya Kund, where it is said Rangji Temple is dedicated to Ramanujite that if a Chaturdashi (shukla ) falls Vaishnava worship. This temple was built on a Tuesday, the sacred Gaya appears in 1844 AD. by Seth Puranmal. Simple in here. architecture, the walls of the temple are decorated with paintings depicting the Ramavaikunthnath Temple various scenes of the life of Lord Krishna. The impact of South Indian architecture is Among the large imposing temples here is visible in the outer view of the temple. one dedicated to Ramavaikunthnath. It Sikharas are richly carved out with images belongs to the Vaishnava sect of of gods and goddesses giving it a majestic Ramanujacharya. The Viman or Gopuram look blended with religious touches. There over the inner temple of Ramavaikunthnath are also other temples of Badrinath was built in accordance with the rules of renovated by Thakur Kherwah in 1800 AD., architecture contained in the scriptures. the temple of Savitri built by the The image of this temple is at Paramurti. of Maharajah Ajit Singh of Marwar and The Viman is built of stone and contains Behariji’s temple constructed by the sculptures of 361 deities. In front of the Maharani of Jaipur in 1835 AD. inner temple or nijamandir stands the golden Garuda, the vahan or transport at Vishnu. The outer gopuram built over the principal entrance of the temple is of brick and mortar, which contains elaborate

205 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Varanasi through sun-burnt plains to Benares, where along its banks is a welter of temple towers, domes and cupolas, all gleaming in the sun. This town (of which we hear) is the focus of all religious thoughts, and this bestows Then Relents upon it its sanctifying power.

ey! there is something to it after Keyserling’s Admiration all. It is said that Benares was an established city 1200 years before H A German thinker Count Herman Keyserling the Christian era. Paul Brunton, the famous says: “It is glorious when the sun rises writer says that he went to explore the above the horizon and the faithful on the labyrinth of streets that compose it (not ghats bend towards the giver of life in their very complimentary!) . Yet, there are other thousands in one single gesture of things said about it. It is called Varanasi adoration. The atmosphere of devotion because Varana and Asi are two rivers, which hangs above the river is and ‘Varanas’ is derived from a combination incomparable in strength, stronger than any of both, because it is in between. It is place I have visited.” said to be the ancient seat of learning and Indians flock from every part to this holy is cosmopolitan in nature. It does not have city. Wealthy or poor they come here to the “don’t-touchisms” practised in other receive blessings. The ailing come to eke parts of India that is great in this land of out their last days, for death here (they so many distinctions. Another thing that I say) will take them straight to the abode have come to realise is the large-hearted of God. However foolish this may appear liberalism of Hinduism. Here there is no to a sceptic, the following arguments compulsion. advanced by a philosopher (and a Westerner at that) may convince us. Benares, the City Eternal “Benares,” he says, “is holy. A world gone superficial hardly understands such truths Benares, they say, is the eternal city. Kailas any more. Before long no one will undertake is the abode of Siva and he who gets there a pilgrimage, and sooner or later, only not is in the very presence of the Lord. The too soon, religion will stand without its holy holiest of rivers has its source in Siva’s places. How poor it will get in the process abode. Kailas at its eminence is accessible : It is meaningless to ask whether a place but to a select few, who have the will and is really holy. If it is regarded as holy for a strength to reach up to it, but Benares sufficiently long period then Divinity can be approached by all. The Ganges that necessarily takes up residence there. The has its origin up in the Himalayan abode pilgrim who enters such a place finds it sweeps down the hill through dense forests remarkably easy to remain in a reverential in which many saints and sages dwell, and mood, and this mood widens him and makes progresses down in its southward course him profound. Of course, it would represent

206 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA the highest pinnacle if men could feel the The bathing ghats of Kasi presence of God everywhere, but hardly one out of a million is capable of this.” Kasi has a number of bathing ghats of which five are considered most important Ancient Seat of Learning (i) Varuna Sangam Ghat (ii) Pancha Ganga Ghat (iii) Mani-Karnika Ghat (iv) This wonderful city, which is the ancient Dasaswamedha Ghat (v) Asi Sangam Ghat. seat of learning, is the meeting place of all orders. People from Kashmir to Kanyakumari, Varuna Sangam Ghat from Bengal to Kutch are represented here with all barriers of race, caste, province Varuna - a small rivulet flows in from the and language dissolved. It has been the west and joins the Ganges at Sangam. centre of Sanskrit studies, and the Pandits Before the Varuna reaches the Sangam one from here are unquestionably sees two temples, Vasishteswar and acknowledged for their erudition and Tatiswar devoted to Lord Siva. After a dip scholarship. It is also the abode of the in the Ghat one ascends the steps to come one among the twelve Jyotir Lingas found to the temple dedicated to Adi Keshava, scattered in different parts of India. where there is a dark-hued image of Lord Kasi is accessible by all types of vehicles. Vishnu who stands there to give darshan So Dada will not find it difficult to travel. to his devotees. In a niche in the wall is It is on the Grand Trunk road as such, and an image of Kesavaditya Siva. Nearby are buses ply at all times. This is a junction for shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva variously Northern and north-Western Railways. called Harihareswar, Vedeswar, Just close to the station is the Rajghat Nakshaleswar and Swastadeepeswar. Thus bridge that spans the Ganges. Pilgrims we, see the same Lord called by a number usually choose the Manikarnika or Dasa- of names. He answers to any name that Asvarnedha Ghat for their bath, as it is the devotee chooses. situated near the Viswanath temple and Anna Poorna shrine. Buses, taxis and tongas Pancha Ganga Ghat are all available to make movement in Kasi a comfort. It is said that Yamuna, Saraswathi, Kirna There are many rest-houses, asrams, and Dhoota Papa meet the Ganges, hence mutts and private residences that the name Pancha Ganga Ghat. There are a accommodate pilgrims at all times. Now number of shrines here, of which one that hotels and other Government residences is well known is that of Bindu Madhav. It is are also there. Besides these, there are a said that Lord Vishnu revealed Himself to a number of charitable institutions here devotee called Agni Bindu here at this spot, opened and maintained by the rich. These and at his request promised to abide here. places supply food to the pilgrims free or Later, this temple was razed to the ground at nominal rates. by the iconoclast, Aurangazeb. Pilgrims throng this Ghat in the month of Kartika.

207 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Mani Karnika Ghat Smashanes Ghat

It is also called Vir Tirth. Above this ghat Here was a crematorium in the past. There is a lake, Mani Karnika, accessible by is a temple here dedicated to Siva who is descending 21 steps. Just near it is yet called “ Smashaneswara.” This place is also another lake called Bhairav Kund. The called Harishchandra Ghat after Raja Harish water of this lake is renewed every eighth Chandra who had for a time to work on day, and through a hidden spring this gets the cremation ground during the severe filled. Close by is the Tarakeswar temple testing period, which he had to go through (a name-sake of the Tarakeswar Siva to prove his devotion to Truth and his virtue temple at Calcutta). Pilgrims bathe here of veracity. and enter the Vireswar Siva temple for worship. Tulasi Ghat

Dasaaswamedha Ghat Tulasi Ghat is the place where Goswami Tulasidas had spent his last days and It is said that the Creator Himself did ultimately shuffled off his mortal coil in the penance and performed sacrifices here. year 1680. Here is an image of Anjaneya This is considered to be one of the main installed by him. Ghats of Kasi, and as such pilgrims rush to The famous Viswanath temple, which was this place in large numbers. Just close to the scene of repeated desecration by this Ghat are the temples of Dasaswa- fanatical invaders, has already been dealt medheswar Siva and Sitala Devi. In one with in the article on the Jyotir Lingas. shrine there are a number of images, and The domes made of thick sheets of gold some of them are Ganga, Saraswathi, that glisten in the sunlight are said to have Yamuna, Brahma, Vishnu, Siva as well as been endowed by Maharana , Narasimha. To the north of this Ghat is a the famous King of Punjab. In the vestibule large Siva temple where there is an image of the temple, on one side is the image of of Abhaya Vinayaka. People gather here Sowbhagya Gowri and Vinayaka on the on Jyeshta Shukla and Ganga Dassera for other. Smaller shrines are there dedicated worship. to the Lord who has taken multitudes of forms to delight his devotees. In and Asi Sangam Ghat around this temple there are about 150 Lingas. There are also a number of images This is the place where the river Asi joins of Vinayaka in his different aspects as Moda the river Ganga. There is a Jain temple Vinayaka, Pramoda, Sumukh and Gananath above the Ghat. Kartika Krishna is Vinayaka. considered as an auspicious time for worship here. Jnana Vapi

Jnana Vapi or the Well of Knowledge is

208 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA where the image of Viswanath was continuation of his conversation with his concealed when the invaders attacked it. brothers and sisters. “ Kasi or Varanasi is Later, it was taken out of the well and more than what I have heard about, even installed. It is here that a huge Nandi faces more than what I have read. As I saw it in the old temple. In the place where the old shrine once stood there today stands a mosque. Emerging from the Viswanath temple past the Dundiraj Ganesh, there is an image of Saneswar. His face is made of silver and the image is only a bust. In one corner is Akshayavat, which is a peepal tree. The Anna Poorna temple is another place, where pilgrims congregate for worship. Here the Eternal Mother is called Anna Poorna. Her image is cast in brass, and she is seated on a silver throne. Within the shrine itself there are a number of other images. Important among the images is the Yantreswar Linga installed by Sri Bhaskar Rai, incorporating the Sri Yantra which is inscribed on it. “See how much information I have gathered? The rest I will see on going to Kasi”.

Sceptic Turns Believer the early morning light I remembered the poem we had learnt as children: This city So the sceptic-turned-believer now decided now doth like a garment wear The beauty to follow his old grandfather to Kasi as a of the morning silent bare. Never did sun devotee. From there he wrote letters in more beautifully steep, In his first splendour,

209 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA valley, rock or hill ; Ne’er saw I, never felt, well. If the Kurukshetra of Punjab is a claim so deep! inaccessible to people in other States, it The river glideth at its own sweet will: is no problem. They create Kasis and Dear God ! The very houses seem asleep; Kurukshetras in their own place. Even in and all that mighty heart is lying still. If I the South we hear there is a Kasi called am to write to you of more places that I Dakshina Kasi. So here we see a lake called have seen I may fill a volume, but in passing Kurukshetra, which is considered sacred. on I will give you a brief account of a few Thus there are several places here which other places of interest. One such place are of importance to pilgrims. “Dada is that is of historic as well as religious importance is:

Kasi Karwat

Near the place where Aurangazeb has built a Mosque is a blind well. In this well is a Linga that was hidden by the priests when the temple was desecrated. The steps leading to the well remain barred at all times. It is opened only on special occasions. Flowers and other things are forever bare-footed. He walks slowly and offered from the top. solemnly along, lest he should miss the shrines en route. Many little anecdotes he The Kalabhairav Temple has related to me as’ we went along. Many more, perhaps, are to come as the days The image made of silver is mounted on a wear on. I am afraid that I who came to throne. There are two other images, one a scoff have perforce to pause and pray. large form of Maha Vir and the other of Thus has Kasi and its inexplicable charm Yogeswari Devi. so completely enticed me”. Then of course there is the Pisacher Mochan Kund. This is a place where offerings are made in the name of ancestors. Here on the Ghat there are a number of images. Another strange thing that strikes a person is the repetition of names. Take for instance the Kurukshetra Tirth. There is a Kurukshetra in Punjab as

210 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Gaya The Pitru Tirtha

A compiled feature Gaya is called a “Pitru Tirtha”. It is said that all parents nurse the pious wish of having a son who will one day go to Gaya Prayers to the Dead and perform the rites for them after their passing away. ncestor worshippers, spiritualists, Now, where is this Gaya? Gaya is one of animists, polytheists are among the the main stations on the Northern Railway. Aepithets of criticism levelled against It is possible to travel to Gaya from Hindus with their practices. In defence of Calcutta as also from . Direct trains this much misunderstood ancestor-worship run from these places. the above quotation from the famous Gaya is a place of pilgrimage for Hindus as English poet Robert Southey will not be well as Buddhists. There are rest houses out of place. It is natural for man to look for travellers, run by some charitable back in the still hours of the night when individuals and trusts as also ashrams and slumber’s chains have bound him on the Mutts. Conveyances of all sorts are light of days that have gone past. To recall available in Gaya from the modern taxis to his childhood days and the faces of those the ancient horse carts. This place, like that have fallen around is natural to man. Kasi, Ayodhya and Brindavan, has a number This remembrance or recollection acquires of sacred spots of interest to the pilgrims a sanctity particularly in the supernaturally of which River Phalgu is worth visiting. This charged atmosphere of a temple or holy river shrinks into a streamlet and dries up ground. Thus it is that Hindus remember in summer, but on digging up the soil one is their dead ancestors on fixed occasions able to secure pure water. To the east of and in specific places to perform certain Gaya is Nagkoot hill and to the south of prescribed rites accompanied by prayers, this river Phalgu is called Mahaana. About feeding of the poor, and worship. 5 Km. to the south of Gaya the Neelaayan Remembering on that day “their virtues” River joins the Mahaana, and thereafter it and trying to be worthy of them, we forget is known as river Saraswathi. This flows or try to avoid their lapses and weakness past the Temple dedicated to Goddess in our lives, - not condemn them, as the Saraswathi. poet says. This is what the “Kriyas” or rites and ceremonies signify to the son who goes The Place of Rites and Ceremonies to Gaya or Prayag to perform them for his ancestors. Pilgrims who come here to perform “Kriyas” A sanskrit sloka extolls Gaya as follows: start by taking a dip in the Phalgu River There is no place in Gaya that is not a and later perform the religious rites on its Tirthasthana. Gaya is the meeting place banks. After this, the pilgrim would enter of all Tirthas and therefore it is the best the most famous temple in Gaya called the among Tirthas. Vishnupad. Here, on an octagonal altar, are

211 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA the foot-prints of the Lord. Outside the reaches Suryakund. temple are two large halls, where lectures are delivered as also religious ceremonies Suryakund conducted. Lord Vishnu is said to be in His unmanifest form in the River Phalgu, but Suryakund is a few yards away from becomes manifest at Vishnupad for the Vishnupad. The Northern end of it is called benefit of his devotees. The devotees are now asked by the guides to visit Akshaya Vata, which is close to a lake called “Brahma- sarovar.” Walled off from the rest of the place and surrounded by a cemented platform is this large tree. Within this compound is the Vateswar Temple dedicated to Lord Siva. From here the pilgrims proceed to Uttaramanasa, which has within its surroundings a lake of the same name with a temple dedicated to the sun called Uttara-ark. Near Uttara-ark is a temple called Mowneswar on the north-east corner. After performing the prescribed rituals for the ancestors the pilgrim takes here a vow of silence till he

212 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Udichi, central Kankal and the Southern According to the Hindus, the ancestors for and Dakshin Manas Tirth. A short distance whom the son is to perform the kriya, from this temple is a shrine devoted to are defined. They are generally three Suryanarayan also called Dakshinaark. paternal ancestors and their wives and Along the Saraswathi River and away from three maternal ancestors and their wives it is a well called Matanga Vapi. This is making twelve immediate ancestors in all. accessible through a narrow foot-path. The Adhikari for the Observances There are four shrines in the vicinity, of which Matangeswar Temple is widely visited Before starting on a pilgrimage to Gaya (or by pilgrims. Dharmaranya any such place) one is is in the vicinity of advised to go around the Matanga Vapi. Here is a crematorium in his town or well into which the village. Then after remains of the ancestral renouncing all vanities, and offerings are thrown. It is wearing simple clothes he said that two Pandava has to leave his town, brothers (Yudhishtra and prayerfully. Charity, fasting Bhima) had performed and prayer are among the penance here prior to deeds the son is expected performing the rites for to perform. On coming to their father. the place where he is to perform these rites, as Pindas and Pinda- Gaya, for instance, he Kriyas finishes the rites in seven days. It is interspersed by “ Pindas “ are offerings visits to the temple, made in memory of one’s ancestors at a feeding of the poor, prayer and fasting, fixed time (i.e. their birth or more commonly and taking bath in the Ganges. death anniver-saries) at appointed places. Besides the anniversaries mentioned, there Religion (including the world of the are special days on which such rites are ancestors), plays an important role in the performed, such as the New Moon day. It life of the oriental. “Ancestor worship” is is the eldest son of the dead who has to not peculiar to Hindus alone. We hear that perform these rites. A Sannyasin is exempt the Chinese and Japanese also perform from offering Pindas. He should only raise special ceremonies or rites in memory of his staff and place it at the feet of the their ancestors. Since this has been a Lord, symbolica11y acknowledging Him as tradition, certain rules have been laid down his all, Father, Mother, Friend and relation. by the scriptures, and people adhere to To one who has renounced, the Lord is them. In course of time superstitions have everything. gathered around this pristine custom and given it a weird and fantastic significance.

213 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Prayag It is an hour of prayer to a religious Hindu. It is called a Sandhi and hence the Sandhya is offered. So here we have the meeting of two great rivers. This is the confluence or the Sangam, and as such a sacred spot, a place of worship. The natural long the great high-way of life there phenomenon is the pointer to a higher are resting places, away from heat Truth, of the Soul’s aspiration to reach out and passion, dust and A to his Creator and finally to become one disappointment, - sequestered solitudes with Him. This becoming one is, perhaps, under the cool and refreshing shade of signified by the confluence, and as such a modest wisdom, humble, unimposing Rest place of worship by its sheer Houses of peace, or by-ways of suggestiveness. blessedness where the weary foot-sore Prayag, as one will see, is divided into three pilgrim finds strength and healing. Along parts by water to resemble a sacrificial the great highway of life, hurrying and altar (Vedi). Prayag is one of the places eager to reach some goal, a great multitude where Kumbha Mela takes place once in passes on. Over-flowing railway carriages, twelve years, when Jupiter transits Taurus. packed vehicles and people of all sorts are Other festivals held here are pushing on to Prayag. Saptami, full moon and newmoon days. “Prayag”? Where is it? What is its Sadhus and Sannyasis as you see are many. importance? Why do you all go there? All It is said that penance or any act of this crowd and to that one place?” asked sacrifice done here with the awareness of the foreign gentleman. “Why” said the its inner significance acquire special Indian, “We Hindus believe in the sanctity importance. of certain places. As to the Christian is “Why is it called Triveni?” asked the Jerusalem or any place connected with foreigner. Christ, so to the Hindu countless such “Here in India, a name has a deep places are there sacred by association with significance. As I told you earlier, this is some saint, or some extraordinary natural the place where three rivers meet. The phenomenon, which reminds him of the two visible ones are Yamuna and Ganga, wonders of the Lord’s Creation. One such and the invisible one is Saraswathi. This place is Prayag. And Prayag is the meeting third river flows underground and emerges place of two great rivers, the Ganga and at a place called Pushkar.” the Yamuna.” “Is it merely the natural setting of the A meeting of two rivers, a hidden spring, a confluence of the rivers that people river flowing north, a land’s end, all such worship here? are reminders to a devotee of his goal and Are there no temples?” his pilgrimage on Earth. Just when the dark Indian Guide: There is an ancient tree called night meets the rising Sun comes the dawn Akshaya Vata in the fort at Allahabad. Even Or when day meets night comes the dusk. place.

214 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA as the Bodhi tree is worshipped by the Foreign Visitor: You said some time Buddbists and Hindus, so also is this tree ago that a place becomes a Tirtha (a holy considered sacred, and worshipped. May place in your language) because of its be some saint sat under it and since then association with some saint. Could you this is a hallowed spot. Nearby there is name one? also a Linga which people worship. If you Indian Guide: In the 14th century the watch closely you will see the devotees famous saint and poet was born circumambulating it and in the end they here. He preached the tenets of devotion embrace the Linga. to all people regardless of caste, creed, Foreign Visitor: What else do they do here, and sex. Among his twelve disciples were other than worship (Pooja) and penance? a barber, a Mohammedan and several ladies. Indian Guide: As an act of penance or The famous poet, Saint Kabir was expiation of some sin of omission or Ramananda’s disciple. About 500 years ago commission people shave off their hair. Hair Maha Prabhu Sri Chaitanya Deva visited as you know is the object of human vanity. Prayag, twice. Here he performed a historic So here they shave it off as an act of act of imparting devotion to Sri Rupa sacrifice and humility. Besides this, there Goswami, one of his principal disciples, the is an offering done to the dead ancestors deeper teachings of . which you may call ancestor worship. The Maha Prabhu stayed at the Beni Foreign Visitor: Well! that brings us to a Madhab temple, near the Dasaswamedh point. Why do you do this meaningless Ghat and sat under a Banyan tree with Sri ceremony? People who are dead are no Rupa for religious discourses. The place is more. Do you think that when you offer still recognised as Sri Rupa-Sikshasthal, anything, they are going to receive them? which is visited by the Vaishnavas as a To me it sounds ridiculous. holy spot. Indian Guide: Friend! pause, here you Coming to modern times, we have records pass your judgement. It is natural for the of pilgrimage by many celebrated saints near and dear ones to remember their like Baba Gambhirnath and Trailinga Swami, relatives who are no more. When who performed penance here. Sri remembering them the Hindu does some Ramakrishna had a holy dip in the Sangam act of charity, worship and prayer to on his way back from Brindavan. Swami sanctify their memory on that day. This is Vivekananda while on a countrywide tour called pinda or an offering. Even as you of before his departure for America, visited the West endow certain things as charity Prayag. There is a beautiful village just on in memory of those who are no more, we the eastern bank of the Ganga, called Jhusi. Hindus observe certain rules even in that Here is a village which is still a favourite endowment. As offerings they are made haunt of sadhus for ‘Tapasya’. Swami to certain specified Gods, who are believed Vivekananda stayed at a cave in Jhusi for to convey them to our ancestors, as well. undisturbed meditation for a couple of days. There are many such places where Pinda Foreign Visitor: Ramananda is of recent Kriyas are performed - Prayag is one such ancient relics of the Akshay-Vat. A historic

215 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA origin. Do you know of any sage who lived pillar, too, stands there. here earlier? Where do you get this Akbar named this city originally as information? Allahabad, meaning the City of God. The Indian Guide: Yes, there are references’ in present name is a changed form of the the Puranas to sages or rishis who have same. stayed here and lead a life of seclusion Foreign Visitor: Where do these pilgrims and prayer. The names mentioned in the stay? Are there Government Rest Houses? Ramayana are Bharadwaja and . If not, will this not become a place too Foreign Visitor: I thought that these epics unhygienic for habitation? were mere imaginary tales written by their Indian Guide: There are a number of authors. How then do you. believe them? ashrams and rest Houses run by private Indian Guide: Even in the case of other trusts and individuals. Here pilgrims can religions, most of what the followers have, avail themselves of cheap boarding and is a record left by ancients. That one by lodging. Besides these, there are hotels name Moses lived, that the Jews were and private houses. As for services captives In Egypt and that Moses received rendered to pilgrims, the traditional Pandas the commandments from God - are all on are there. And the Bharat Sevasram Sangh record, it is said. A rationalist or a sceptic plays a significant role in this respect. The may well question all this, as he does the Sangha has a fairly large Ashram here with very existence of God. Even though the provision for free accommodation for about epics read like mere legends, the cities 300 pilgrims at a time. About 10,000 mentioned there are geographically located families of pilgrims stay at the Ashram in a and often historically identified. So the year at normal times. The Sangha- devoted believe in the sanctity of these Sannyasis manage ritualistic services of the places. pilgrims through their own priests at a Foreign Visitor: We have now approached moderate cost. Tbe Sangha also looks to Allahabad. Are there other routes by which other conveniences of the pilgrims. this place is accessible to the pilgrims? During the annual Magh Melas and Kumbha Indian Guide: Allahabad is the junction and Ardha Kumbha Melas, the Sangha where Northern and Central Railways meet. establishes large camps in the Mela area. Other approaches are through Naini, Izet Here some pilgrims are accommodated, and Bridge, Allahabad City and Jhusi, but most the Sangha also provides medical relief of the people alight at Allahabad junction. through Homeo and Allopathic free Hence the mingling throng here. Within the dispensaries, On peak days of bathing the city itself, buses ply up to Triveni. Sangha organises elaborate volunteer- Incidentally, the modern city of Allahabad services for helping the pilgrims. flourished during the reign of Akbar the Besides, the Sangha holds religious Great, who built a magnificent fort on the discourses every day at the camp and banks of the Jarnuna, this impregnable fort organises vast religious seminars and stands almost intact to this day. Inside conventions quite frequently during the the fort there are some temples and the Guide: Now, proceed. Here lies the Bindu

216 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA tenure of the Mela for about five weeks. Madhav temple. There are two approaches Foreign Visitor: Could you please tell me if to this temple, as you may see. One is there are other temples of interest to pilgrim from the Sangam and the other is through here? 1 would like to see them before I Someswarnath people. Here abides the return home. Lord whom people chose to call Bindu Indian Guide: Seeing is believing. I think Madhav. Others are smaller shrines as you we will take a look at these places can see. Prayag is also a Sakthi Pitha, ourselves. among the 52 such holy places scattered throughout India. The Deity is ‘adored as Hanuman Temple Lalitha at Prayag. Siva as Bhaba stays here as her guard. A temple in the city area Here is the temple dedicated to one of the called Alopirnaya temple with no image greatest, if not’ the greatest’, of devotees inside is supposed to be the Sakti Pith. of Lord Sri Rama. The image as you see is Visitor: Yes, I find that I have a lot to a reclining one. When the water in the river think about. It seems that every inch of rises the image remains immersed. This this land is hallowed with sacred memories great devotee was a master of all the six and idea. systems of Indian philosophy, and it is said Guide: This is why this place is called the that he relinquished all claim to learning King among the Tirthas, - “ Prayag Raj.” for the love of the mere recitation of the Foreign Visitor: On this land what a Lord’s name. Now let us cross the river. labyrinth of streets that link temple to Ah! there is a boat about to move. Let us temple which in themselves are thickly get into it. strewn with shrine and altar! No place of “Is that not a temple lower down there, to pilgrimage has so many points of worship. the west?” And in almost everyone of them Divinity is “Yes, that is the temple, called honoured in some special form or specific Manakameswar. It is dedicated to Lord aspect. Siva. The boat has stopped. Now let us Indian Guide: Yes, sir! at last, even the alight. Besides this, there are other Siva sceptic’s heart softens, and you have temples near here. One is called Somnath, glimpsed the soul of India, which despite a namesake of the famous Somnath temple all distinctions, is one! One, always as you of Saurashtra.” will see from the crowds, - Indians from Visitor: What are those groups of people different quarters of India gather here as doing over there? pilgrims. There is but one aim, inspiring all, Guide: They are having a dip there. That - one moving spirit, the Lord who is the place is the confluence or the Sangam, Father of all, - named and identified in and as such it is considered a sacred spot. diverse ways, in diverse forms. Others on the shore are performing what you call ancestor worship. Visitor: Yes; I have understood its significance now. Let us move on.

217 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Chitrakut bears as also monkeys and deer. It was here that Lord Sri Rama came and stayed when he was in exile for 14 year as desired by the scheming Mother Kaikeyi. Didi : She was not scheming. Certain instances in our life are planned by God E were travelling from Lucknow and it just happens. Some people become down for the holidays. After a the cause of bringing pain to others. Don’t Wstop at Prayag we boarded the you cause pain to Ma by your silly pranks? train and were on our way by the Central Well, is Chitrakut so holy merely because Railway to Jhansi. In the compartment my of this? little brother roamed around making friends. Ravi : As for my pranks, you don’t have to All at once he bounced back, and said rub it in. Ma knows I am just a kid, and I “Leela Didi! they are talking about a place can’t be a sissy like you. Now for Chitrakut, I have learnt about. It is called Chitrakut. it is said that many sages lived here. I Let’s get down. I want to see that place.” have forgotten. Oh... yes Atri Rishi stayed Thus he egged us on with all the impulsive here near about. There were others also haste of a child. Since we were bound for but he is the most important one. I have Jhansi I persuaded him to wait so that we forgotten the rest. could gather information about the place Didi : Oh! come, let us get down. It is and the shrines of importance there. In Jhansi. the meantime since he knew about it I asked, “Ravi, how do you know about Epic Assosiations Chitrakut? “ “Why, we are learning portions of the So here we got down and went to our Ramayana in class. In that Chitrakut is friends place where we were to spend a mentioned. I thought that it was all a fairy few days, but Ravi was so full of Chitrakut tale, like the story of Goldilocks, Pinnochio that he could not contain himself. He and others that I’ve read about; but just wanted to leave the very next day. In the now some of my friends are getting down meantime he went about the way only a at Karvi and from there proceeding to the child could do : questioning, confirming and very spot, Chitrakut, which is said to be contradicting- giving no peace to anyone. 24 miles.” Chitrakut had filled his mind. He lived Didi : But I want to know how much you through the days of the Ramayana of yore, have learnt about Chitrakut. saw the deep denseness of the forest, the clear water-springs, trees laden with fruits A School Boy’s Urge and blooming with forest flowers, a glade with a hut in which an aged bearded man Ravi : O.K. Chitrakut is a beautiful place, sat amidst others. Yes, he was Atri. Then all wooded with thick forests, where there he remembered Anasuya, the sage’s saintly were many wild beasts like lions, tigers and wife.

218 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Mother Sita, Sri Rama and Lakshmana, the At the mention of these names, the child’s two with their half-bare bodies; one tall, mind bubbled up with anecdotes tucked dark and handsome, and other fair, armed away in his expansive, little mind. He with bows. The boyish eyes gleamed with listened with rapt attention about Tulasi a far-away look of intense pride. Enviable Das who had composed Ramayana in Hindi is a child’s mind. Possessed with one so that all could read it. Many a place is thought he re-lived what the grown-ups marked with footprints of these great ones. would have longed to think of at least for He looked absorbed (our Ravi), and the a moment. At times he would jump up from Lord alone knows what went on in his mind. his reverie. Yes; it was time to go. The Suddenly, he came to a flight of steps, at sands of time ran too slow for this little which he paused and asked what they were one’s mind that was like quick-sand. and where they lead to. Then off he was So off we were to Karvi where we alighted like an arrow. We panted up, and there he and went by bus to Sitapur, and then was, pink with excitement, “what fun” he jogged up and down an uneven road to said, “One hundred and fifty steps! Did you Chitrakut. count them?” Far from counting we wanted ‘At last we have come’, said Ravi as he to rest our weary limbs! stood ready on his feet like an athlete ready to take off. Here we were told that the Reliving the Old Scenes first place we should visit was Raghav Prayag where if we wished we could take Now came a tirade of questions: What? a dip. Ravi was all game. To him it was fun Where? How and why? followed in quick and frolic with a sense of awe that this succession. Then he was told that this was was a fairy tale come true. He ripped the the place where Sri Lakshmana used to clothes off his body and was already ankle guard as his brother and Mother Sita deep in water before we had decided. rested. “Oh” he said, did he never sleep the whole night? He must have kept on, Kamadgiri and the Way-side Shrines watching to see that no thieves came to rob his brother. Then we went to Kamodgiri a hillock that But then he was told that they were living was densely wooded. It seems that people as Sannyasins in the forest, so there was never venture up here, - like Arunachala, nothing to rob. So he concluded it was which is a small hillock but is beset with because Lakshmana loved his brother and dangers. People did not ascend it for fear. was frightened that he would be killed by To Ravi it was a challenge not to be turned tigers. down. Somehow, we persuaded him and For a moment he straightened his gait and asked him to go around the hill and then held his hand as though he was holding an find a way up. Along the way there were a imaginary bow and started striding around number of tiny shrines like Gopal, enacting the age old drama. Lakshmi Narayanan and a temple dedicated Suddenly, he saw us descending the 150 to Sri Lakshmana. steps and he shot down, nay over-shot

219 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA us. Now, we were on our way to embossed on marble. It is said that in a Hanumandhara. To the north of Chitrakut lake nearby now called Janaki-Kund, Mother is Koti Thirtha. After reaching it there was Janaki came for her bath. a slight ascent. There is a marble slab (Sphatika Sila), on There were a number of streams and rivers which there is a foot-print said to be that called Pampasar, Bankey Sidh, Saraswathi of Lord Sri Rama. This is the place where a River and Yarna Tirth. Two other spots here crow is said to have pecked at Mother Sita were Siddhashram and Gridrashram or the as she sat with the Lord’s head resting on place where Jatayu sat and did penance. her lap. These two places did not seem to rouse Ravi’s interest. Now came a climb Jatayu, the Brave Bird and he was once again a live wire. About five miles from Sphatika Shila there “Jatayu” brought on a flood of recollections, was a hill on which there was the Ashram and Ravi remembered the incident of the of Sage Atri. Here one saw the statues of brave bird who fought Ravana as he carried Anasuya, Dattatreya, Durvasa and the Sita away. Lost in deep thought he walked Moon. Ravi’s comments were that Anusuya beside a waterfall - a tiny cataract called was the saintly lady who was not at all Hanumandhara, which falls and collects to jealous. Dattatreya is Lord Siva. “Vishnu form a pool. “Hanuman”! The word was and Brahma came down together and enough, and again the flight to Lanka, his became the saint’s son called Dattatreya.” coming back with the hill, all his feats of Durvasa was an angry saint. Thus he bravery stood reflected in his eyes, and it prattled on with his rich associations. fell in incoherent dots and dashes like morse Nearby on another hill were many statues code. of Anjaneya - Ravi’s hero and God. It was wooded and inaccessible. He Five Days in Chitrakut reconciled himself with the thought that he would become a mountaineer when he Of the five days given for our stay at grew up and investigate all that he was Chitrakut, two memorable days had already forbidden to do now. been exhausted. We had two long tiring days, but not Ravi. He was back in the Gupt Godavari Epic age re-living what he had heard his teacher say, coloured with his own “Oh I thought Godavari was in the South” imagination added to what he had seen. said Ravi. “No, you see, South or North, Now, on the third day we started out early. India is one country. Seeing what we might We were to start with Payasivni River. On become later (divided and angry) our the left bank is a wooded region called ancients chose similar names to rivers and Pramodvan. It is enclosed by high walls places though they were in different interspersed by houses here and there. Here directions” said our guide. Here Ravi was are two temples. Along the banks of excited, as we had to enter a cave that Payasvini are a number of foot-prints was dark, so we entered the cave with a

220 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA torch. About 15 or 16 yards from the mouth he saw what we could not see. His lips of the cave was a spring from which water moved and he said, I knew I would see you came out continuously and flowed out and all. You know I had to fight to come and ran down as two streams which collected see you.” in a lake. This is called Gupt Godavari. Gupt Unwillingly he retraced his steps to where means secret, hidden. This remark fired I stood. not knowing what to do. His Ravi’s imagination and elicited his response: communion was over. He came out and we “May be through some under-ground tunnel went to the last place “Rama Sayya “. this river flows all the way South and There on a tone was the imprint of two emerges as the Godavari river when she is bodies with the intervening impress of a “ Gupt” no more. May be, echoed the guide. bow. It is said that his was the place where the Lord and the Mother had sat. Ravi’s The Waters of the Coronation mind was left behind at Bharat Koop. He walked among Gods, though physically he Now on the last two days we saw two was with us. At last, he woke up and places, which with vivid mental imagery of realised that we were to leave the next this little boy brought before our eyes the day. entire coronation of Lord Sri Rama. Here A space of four days - packed with was a place called Bharat Koop (well). It experiences and memories - with a glimpse was said that the happiest person to into the profound depths of a child’s mind. welcome Sri Ramachandra after his exile Suddenly, we realised that there was a was his brother Bharatha. His joy knew no milling crowd gathered at the station. bounds and he had the waters of all the People of all types, men, women and Tirthas brought to anoint Him on His children - a babel of voices - mingled to Coronation. The left over water was poured form a strange noise. People dressed in all into this well, as directed by Sage Atri. kinds of apparel spilt out of the over-packed Now Ravi recollected a picture that adorned compartments on to the platform. They his room. The details of it flashed through were on the same quest as Ravi was four his mind and he lived it over again and days ago.· These people who thronged and made us live it, as only a child could do. mingled at last became one on the same The Lord with Mother Sita on the throne piece of land, the sacred spot called flanked by His brothers and with Anjaneya Chitrakut. at the Lord’s feet, the Rishis all around and rain of flowers, all flashed and pictured themselves before him and he was lost in deep reverie as he walked along. There appeared, tiny shrine with the images of Sri Rama, Sita ad Lakshmana, It looked as though Ravi’s thoughts had frozen into form and there they stood ready for his worship. His starry eyes gazed at them as though

221 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Ayodhya or Saket of his subjects. He was no passive spectator of events. He laboured hard for public welfare and declared that he was always ready for reforms. Official reporters kept him informed of his subjects’ welfare. At EACE on Earth, goodwill among men, all times and at all places he was always prosperity and plenty, were not ready to work for the common wealth. Utopian dreams or a remote P Such was the legacy that he left behind possibility. It was here in Ayodhya, long and his name is chronicled in letters of ago, that a righteous and noble monarch gold in the heart of man and as a poem in ruled this land. He was an ideal king, a the pages of history. Such was his model among sons, a brother whose foot greatness. It is even today cited, not as a prints his younger ones yearned to follow. mere remote possibility but as a living His name was Rama. Even today where reality. auspiciousness, love, purity and prosperity Ayodhya is about four miles from Faizabad, reign, man hearkens back to the hoary past, and it was said to be the ancient capital calls them by a name for which Rama alone of Uttar Kosal. A historical account states is responsible. He left the indelible imprint that the present Ayodhya was built by of “Rama Rajya” in this country, and his Vikramaditya. King Vikramaditya had once subjects handed down to posterity the gone out of the bounds of his Kingdom and memory of what we today conceive of as roamed about in a densely forested area, a Heaven on Earth. near River Sarayu. Geographically they call it Ayodhya, the When he felt that he was on hallowed ancient capital of the Kings of the Ikshvaku ground that had been obliterated by some race. Many kings of the august clan calamity, he re-built it with many temples, adorned the throne of Ayodhya. To the rest houses, tanks and other conveniences Ikshvaku clan Dasaratha belonged and he for pilgrims. Later on, this city also suffered was the Ruler of the land, and Rama was the same fate as Kasi and Somnath, that his son. It would be well to quote here a came under the ruthless blows of plundering few lines from a pen-picture of the great invaders. Emperor Asoka provided by Jawaharlal Ayodhya is mentioned as the first among Nehru in his “Discovery of India.” “He was the seven sacred cities of India. Here a finished model of calm and sweet Vaishnava temples mingle with Saivite majesty, of infinite tenderness for all, shrines, with a sparse sprinkling of compassion for all that suffers, and the here and there, that mark the invaders nation and race which produced such a entry and establishment. Ayodhya as the magnificent type must have deep reserves birth place of Lord Sri Ramachandra is of wisdom and inner strength.” sacred to Hindus as a place of pilgrimage. “This astonishing Ruler, beloved still in India, The Jains also claim that the first of the devoted himself to righteousness and good twenty four Tirthankaras was of the will and to public work for the betterment Ikshvaku race. Twenty three of the others

222 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA also trace their lineage from the same Vikramaditya resurrected it. Near “Solar Clan “. Nageswarnath temple there is a small alley, By the time of Buddha, Ayodhya was a where a temple stands dedicated to Lord comparatively insignificant town, but Sri Rama. This was desecrated by Babar, “Saket” (identified as Ayodhya) is recorded but the image was saved and later re- as a flourishing city. Fahien and Hiuen Tsang have both visited Ayodhya, and left an account of the Buddhist Monasteries existing there at that time. Today Ayodhya, like Rishikesh, Hardwar and other places, is a land of ashrams and maths. It stands on the southern bank of river Sarayu. A number of ghats are visible on the banks of this river, as it flowed. Now, Sarayu seems to have changed her course. As one walks along the course of the river from west to east, one passes Runmochen, Sahasra Dhara, Lakshmar, Swargadwar, Ganga Mahal, Sivala, Jatayu, Ahalya Dhour Hara, Roop Kala, Naya, Janaki and Ram ghats. Lakshman Ghat is said to be the place, from which Sri Lakshmana installed at Swargadwar. left the earth for his heavenly abode. On the spot where the above mentioned Swargadwar is the place where there is a temple stood, a Mosque was constructed temple dedicated to Nageswarnath and said by Babar. In 1885 after a long dispute, the to have been established by Kusa. It is by Vairagi Vaishnavites installed some images seeing the ruins of this temple that of the Lord in front of the Mosque, and

223 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA later this was settled by constructing a India. wall. Kanak Bhavan is the main temple of In and near Ayodhya are a number of Ayodhya. Here on a gold-plated throne are temples, tanks and bathing ghats. Some the images of Lord Rama and Sita. This is of them are Sonekhar, Surya Kund, etc. said to have been the Palace where the Surya Kund is a large tank with a temple in Lord and Mother Sita lived. In front of the the vicinity dedicated to Surya Narayan. main images of Lord Sri Rama and Sita there Gupta Ghat is the place, and people come are small images. for a bath in the Sarayu, where close by is These they say are the real ones. Once, a temple dedicated to Lord Siva called long ago, it was said that there was an Nirmalnath Maha Dev. extensive fort called Ramkot. All that is Ayodhya is said to have been the place left of it are remnants of walls scattered where Buddha spent the rainy months. here and there, and markedly in four places Ayodhya referred to as Saket in Buddhist i.e. Hanuman Garhi, Sugrevatela, Angad- scriptures is situated to the S. W. of bila, Matt Gajendra. Hanuman Garhi is Manparvat where there was a Buddhist situated at a distance of one mile. There Monastery. Now there is a stupa and many is a small fort here. On climbing sixty steps Jain Tirthankaras hail from Ayodhya. one comes across a small shrine dedicated Today, Ayodhya is the home of a number to Anjaneya. Here the image is in a sitting of maths and monasteries. All creeds and position. Close by is another image of this communities are represented here the great devotee of the Lord that is always ancient seat of an august clan. Temples covered with flowers. and turrets, minarets and steeples crowd What Jerusalem is to the Christian, Mecca the entire little town studding the banks to the Mohammedans and Lumbini to the of the river Sarayu. New life is coursing Buddhists, that Ayodhya is to the devotees slowly and pulsating surely through the of Lord Sri Rama. The place where he was town that once fell into the ruthless hands born to play out his Divine drama on Earth of destroyers and desecrators. is today called Janmasthan. On this spot now stands a Mosque erected by Babar after his successful destruction of the original temple. Today there is an image of the Lord and a number of small shrines that have been installed, where there once stood a mighty temple. Tulsi Chowra is another place of interest here. This is where the saintly Tulsidas wrote out his Rama Charit Manas in a language intelligible to the common man. This year [1974] will mark the 400th anniversary of the birth of this great man who is hailed as one of the great saints of

224 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Mathura - Brindavan enchanting form, to hear his flute call still resounding in the hills, the dales and the groves of Brindavan, along the banks of river Yamuna. Years ago the love- GREAT many people do not believe intoxicated Mira, the Princess of Mewar that Krishna ever existed. Some say sought her Giridhar, here, and had glimpses Athat the worship of Krishna grew of him under the Kadamba tree on moon- out of the age old Sun worship. There seem lit nights. He drove her mad by the tinkling to be several . One was mentioned of his anklets that lured her. Many Saints in the Upanishads. Another was a King. have written and sung about Vraj-Desh, Still another was a general. There was one the one whose name shines like a bright who sported around with the cow-herds star. Among them is the blind poet. of Brindavan. It does not matter much. The fact is, some individual comes who is Temple of Dwaraka Dheesh unique in spirituality. Then all sorts of legends are woven around him. So says The temple of Dwaraka Dheesh is the . biggest temple here, built in about 1815 A.D. This is maintained by the priests of Sanctified by Divine Associations the Vallabha Order (Sampradaya). Pilgrims are able to have a vision of the Lord from Though a Prince, he was born in captivity time to time here. The figure of the Lord is under the shadow of terror. His parents in black marble and is about 6 feet in height. took him away to Brindavan and brought back a baby girl in his place. His entire Vishram Ghat play from cradle was one of total self- effacement, a life lived for others. He knew Vishram Ghat is the biggest Ghat where from his childhood who he was and what pilgrims come and bathe. It is said that he came for. Lord Krishna came and rested here after These great ones come, out of their free the destruction of the tyrant Kamsa. The will and cannot help radiating tremendous Arati in the evening to the river Yamuna is spiritual power. “Whenever virtue subsides a sight that no pilgrim misses. Just close and irreligion prevails I come down. Again to this Ghat is the Samadhi of Sri and again I come”. Thus he said. Vallabacharya. Born at Mathura, brought up at Brindavan Gatshram Narayan Temple has images of he established a Kingdom at Dwaraka. Thus Sri Radha and Lord Krishna. It is situated he played out the acts and scenes of his to the left of the Dwaraka Dheesh temple. never-to-be forgotten life at Mathura and Tulasi Chowra has the Samadhi of Sri Nath. Brindavan, and these places have been Close to it is a shrine dedicated to sanctified by the memory of events in his Shatrughna, the brother of Sri Rama. remarkable life. At Ramdas there is an ancient temple Pilgrims throng this place to re-capture his of Ramanatheswar, a Siva temple. At

225 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Bengali Ghat there are four temples run by which is said to be the birth-place of Lord the Vallabha Order. At a place called Dhruv Krishna. Recently a temple has been built bete there is a foot-print. It is at this place and other buildings are also under that the Shalagram Sri Sarveswar and construction. Vishveswar are worshipped. At Ghavo Ghat there is a temple dedicated Chamundi Devi to Sri Radha. To the west of Mathura is a temple of Maha Vidya Devi. Below this is a This temple is on the “ Marg” tank. Close to it is a temple in which there about two furlongs away from Mathura is an icon dedicated to Pasupathi Maha Brindavan Road. Dev Slightly removed from it is the temple which is considered to BRINDAVAN be one of 52 Sakti temples. On Ekadasi days and on Akshaya Navami, SRI KRISHNA is formless, supra-personal, devotees circumambulate the whole town immanent as well as of transcendent charm, bringing within its ambit all the centres blissful, of matchless beauty. Fortunate connected with the Lord’s play on earth. devotees of the Lord, who have seen his In this pre-eminently Vaishnava town there enchanting form in their purified heart, are four Siva temples guarding the four describe Him as a personification of infinite quarters of Mathura. These are Bhuteswar beauty and of the colour of clouds. With in the West, Pippaleswar in the East, the ever-fresh garland of wild flowers Rangeswar in the South, and Gokarneswar around his neck, and a luminous girdle in the North. around his slender waist, with the celestial notes of his flute the Divine form of Sri Sri Ram Mandir Krishna has captivated the heart of many a devotee. The famous Kadamba tree This temple is said to be as old as 1600 (Naudia Orientalis) is his favourite haunt, A.D.; it existed when Tulsidas visited and the banks of the Jamuna his strolling Mathura. It has the statue of Lord Krishna ground. disguised as Rama. Devotees like the Great Master Sri Ramakrishna have in their moments of Lakshmi Narayana Mandir ecstasy cried out “Oh, Govinda, my life! The mind is Krishna, the Prana is Krishna, Lakshmi Narayana Mandir built by Birla Knowledge is Krishna, meditation is Krishna, Sheth on the road of Mathura and perception is Krishna, intellect is Krishna. Brindavan is also a famous temple. Thou art the Universe and the Universe is in Thee. I am the instrument and Thou art Janma Bhumi the Operator.” On His pilgrimage to Brindavan it is said This is behind Idgah Mosque on Deeg that Sri Ramakrishna was in high spirits in Darwaza Road. There is a raised platform this sacred place, rich in countless sweet

226 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA memories of Sri Krishna. He visited the where the Lord’s image- is in the form of places of interest with characteristic Gitacharya, On the wall there are panels emotions. on which the entire Gita has been inscribed. At the sight of Banki Vihari I was over- There are daily congregations where people whelmed with emotion and ran to embrace meet to sing hymns besides the usual him. The very sight of the Kaliya Damam pilgrims from all over India. Round about Ghat used to throw me into ecstasy. I this place are a number of ashrams, mutts, would take a stroll in the evening on the and rest-houses. Kaliya Vadh or Kaliya sandy beach of the Jamuna, where there Daman is the spot where the boy Krishna were small thatched huts among the Jujube destroyed the mighty serpent who had trees. One evening I saw a herd of cows become a terror to the people. Here is ‘an returning from their pasture followed by image of the Lord standing on the head of the cow-herd boys. the serpent. Other temples here are those They waded the Jamuna. The scene at of Yugal Kishore and Madan Kishore. once suggested Sri Krishna to me, and overwhelmed, I ran crying wildly, Where is Advaitvat Krishna, Oh, where is Krishna. “I visited the Govardhana Hill. The very Advaitvat is the hallowed spot, where the sight of it overwhelmed me. I ran to the devotees of Sri Chaitanya Maha Prabhu had top, where I stood lost to outward performed penance. consciousness. On the way to Shyam Kund and Radha Kund I saw the old meadows, Temple of Bankey Bihari trees and plants, birds and deer rich with associations. I could not contain myself. I The temple of Bankey Bihari is where the thought, Oh Krishna everything hallowed Lord stands in the famous bent posture. It by thy association is there, only I can’t is not possible to get a continuous vision see Thee.” Today this place may have of the deity here. Worship here is peculiar lost all its original glory and splendour. The in that the veil covering the sanctum is River Yamuna may not be what it was in drawn down from time to time. This is the the days of Lord Krishna, the Kadamba tree most famous temple in Brindavan with the no more and the cow-herd boys may have greatest number of devotees visiting it at become factory hands. Still to a devotee all times. Gokul is where the Lord spent his Brindavan will be gilded by the divinity childhood. It is about 6 miles from Mathura. which has filled it to capacity. It is situated across the bridge. There are On the map, Brindavan has been located 6 a number of temples built by the Vallabha miles to the North of Mathura. All types of Order of Monks here. conveyances are available from Mathura to Brindavan - trains, buses and horse- Madhuvan carts bring the pilgrims to this place. Midway between Mathura and Brindavan is About a mile from Gokul is the place where the beautiful Gila Mandir built by the BirIas, Lord Krishna romped about playing with his

227 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA friends. Here is a temple called Nanda the Mother of Sri Radha Kishori. Bhavan. On Janmasthami Day, a big fair is held, when people from places near about Govardhan come here to celebrate the event. Govardhan is about 16 miles from Mathura. Nandagaon It can hardly be called a hill; an entire circumambulation of it covers only 14 miles. Nandagaon is accessible to pilgrims by bus. This is the hill that Lord Krishna held up as There is a hillock on which stands a temple an umbrella to protect the people of with the images of Nanda, Yasoda, Sri Brindavan when a storm raged. He held Krishna, Balaram, Radhika and the cowherd the hill aloft and had all the people sheltered boys with whom the Lord sported around. under it. There are people here who At the foot of the hill is a lake-spring called prostrate full length all the way around Pamari. the foot of the hill. Brindavan has been sanctified by the touch Barsana of many saints and sages who had been here to watch the divine sport of the Lord. Barsana or Vrishabhanupur is the place Thousands of years have rolled past, and where Sri Radha’s father lived. Here is a thousands of years more may pass without hill which has four peaks called Morkuti, the advent of such a son. The Mangadh, Vilasgath and Dangadh, where distinguishing aspect by which he was the Lord had spent His time with his beloved adored and to this day worshipped was his devotee Sri Radha. Her devotion is an life. His life and conduct were unique. His inexplicable saga. It is said that she was the sublime life of Divine Love in all its incarnated here to show the pangs that a manifest aspects. devotee suffers at his separation from the Lord. This is described as Viraha. The Lord Kunjs was unable to resist it and many a time appeared to appease the agonies that she Brindavan is famous for its temples. It is suffered. There are many temples here, a also famous for its Kunjs. These Kunjs are notable one is a large one dedicated to Sri said to be playgrounds of Lord Krishna. None Radha. Here one finds shrines dedicated can testify to the Truth of the legendary to Vrisha Bhanu, the father of Radhika, tales associated with them, yet it is true another to her eight companions (Lalitha, that they represent the most serene spots Visakha, Chitra, Indulekha, Champaklata, of the land. The most important Kunjs of Rang Devi, Jungavidya and Sudevi). A the city are: temple is dedicated to her where there is Sewa Kunj: This Kunj is situated in the a large figure of hers supported by Sri heart of the city. It has a high compound Kishori. Here is a tank called Bhanu Pushkar. wall. From the compound there is one It is said that Vrisha Bhanu made it. Close entrance only. The whole area is densely to it is the Kirti Kund, a lake named after forested and one finds it very difficult to

228 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA pass through. A path leads the visitors to of Lala Babu. It has a large compound the temple. A figure of Sri Radhakrishna is surrounded by many temples all around. It put up there. It is said that the Lord and is a spot where Uddhavji gave the message His consort pay a visit to this place every of Lord Krishna to the Gopis. It has been night. Just near the entrance there is Lalita the meeting place of saints. Tulsidas, Meera Kund. It has vast groves with countless Raskban, Swami Haridas and several others monkeys. Nobody is allowed to remain in have lived here. the Kunj after sun-set. Tatti Sthan : It is situated on the banks of Nidi Van: This Kunj is situated near the the river near the temple of Kunj Bihari. It Ghera of Radha Ramanuja Swami. Haridasji is said to be the living place of Moni Baba, used to live here. It is a place of perfect an ardent disciple of Swami Haridasji. calm. Hutments where the Swamiji lived Several hutments are built for saints who are yet to be seen. It is said that the come here from different parts of India. statue of Bihariji, which is now in Bankey Rishikul Ashram: It is situated in the Bihari temple was found here. It has a Kund compound of Shri Ranji temple. Its object called Vishaka Kund. A Samadhi of Swami is to teach the young people tenets of Haridasji is built here. Hindu religion. A Sanskrit Patasala and an Lakshmi Kunj: It is on the banks of River Ausdhalaya (dispensary) are attached to Jamuna and was built by Maharaja of it. Bharatpur. Gurukul: This is governed by Arya Sangh. It has a school, a boarding house, Religious Spots of Importance laboratory, etc. It imparts education to young ones in the light of the principles of The city of Brindavan is newly built. It is the Arya Samaj. said that about four to five hundred years Ramakrishna Seva Ashram: Its object ago there were no houses. There were is to serve humanity in distress. It has a temples scattered here and there, and general and wards to Sadhus used to live there. Those who had accommodate in-patients. dedicated their lives to worship found Bharat Sevasram Sangh : Near Brindavan suitable spots according to their tastes railway station, on the main road is situated and lived there. These spots have now Bharat Sevasram Sangh. It seeks to restore become pilgrim spots: the ancient spiritual atmosphere of the holy Kali Dah: It is not sure where the old Kali places of pilgrimage and to provide Dah of the times of Lord Krishna exists, accommodation, as well as help to the but people say that a spot near Raman pilgrims in the performance of religious rites Reti on the river bank is Kali Dah, It has a and also to protect them from the number of temples and ashrams. unscrupulous Pandas. Vanshibat : It is a spot on the river bank. The great Acharya, the founder of the It has a Banyan tree and a temple with Sangh, with his Divine foresight, realised other buildings, where Sadhus live. the evil potentialities hidden in the Gyan Govidri : It is a spot near the temple atmosphere of the holy places of India and

229 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA felt the need for urgent reformation. In the year 1924, he introduced the Uttarkhand Shrines programme, “Thirtha Sanskar “. Through long and strenuous efforts the movement acquired countrywide support from all sections of the people. The Twin Shrines Despite vehement opposition and heavy odds, the Sangh workers have been able THE twin Himalayan shrines of Shri Badrinath to create a really spiritual atmosphere in Dham and Shri , the holiest several of these holy places. Their work is among the holy shrines of India, have been as follows : a centre of veneration from Vedic times. 1. Pilgrims are given free shelter in the These ancient seats of Hindu religion and Dharmasala for three days. culture have drawn multitudes of devotees 2. Pilgrims are helped to perform their from all over India for ages now. The two religious rites at reasonable other sister shrines of and expenses and are saved from Yamnotri in the same Himalayan sector of oppression and extortion. Holy Uttarkhand are equally sacred and 3. Ailing pilgrims are treated free of have similarly drawn an endless stream of charge at the charitable pilgrims. All these shrines are situated on dispensaries of the Sangh. an average height of ten thousand feet 4. Daily bhajans, kirtans, puja, arati, from sea level. They lie buried in deep snow etc. and weekly havan, occasional in winter and are open to pilgrims from May festivals and anniversary to November. The loftiest shrine of celebrations are held. , as the name indicates, Triyugi 5. There are also library facilities and Narain, , Madh Maheshwar, free reading rooms. , , Jyotirmath and a There are many Dharma Salas, Kunjs and host of other shrines, too numerous to Ashrams at Brindavan, Visitors have full mention, lie heavily dotted in the holy facilities to reside there. . Ban Maharaj : On Chhatikra Road, there These seats of ancient renown arc situated is also a religious University, where Western in the distant and hitherto inaccessible scholars and visitors come for a study of border hills of , in the lap of Sanskrit, the Vedas and Upanishads etc. the mighty Himalayas. Hitherto, however, it did not deter the surging mass of devout humanity from undertaking a journey to these holy places. The more the tribulation, the more the degree of salvation; this was the secret of this holy pilgrimage in ancient times. Such has been the glory of the Mighty Lord of the Himalayas from time immemorial. In fact, it was faith that

230 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA sustained them through the perilous nature Sato Panth, the snow-clad world-famed of the journey and the vagaries of the peak of which overlooks the Himalayan weather and various other temple, and many others are part of the handicaps. natural phenomena in that Celestial land, a delight of visitors. This holy land is the Importance of Badrinath birth-place of Ganga, Yamuna, Alak Nanda, Bhagirathi, Saraswathi, Dhauli, Nandakini, The shrine of Shri Badrinath is important Pindar, Mandakini and several other rivers from the point of view of Pilgrims, tourists, of scriptural fame. historians, scientists and research scholars The Hindu enjoin that no of ancient art and history. It has been the pilgrimage would be complete, unless a haunt of Rishis and sages of ancient India, pilgrim paid a visit to Badrinath - the lofty who flocked there to attain Divine abode of Vishnu and a great Ashram of knowledge. Many eminent , poets and Nara and Narayana. Badrinath has been authors flocked to this holy land to described in Hindu scriptures as supreme propitiate the Deity, to obtain salvation among the places of pilgrimage. Its sanctity and to receive inspiration or draw material from available books. natural scenery coupled with snow-clad mountains, gushing waters of the icy Alak Nanda and beautiful flowers in the rainy season add to the enchan- tment of the area. There is a hot- water spring at Badrinath called Tapta was an article of the deepest faith on the Kund, in the icy heights, the temperature part of the Rishis of the past Yugas. The of which is found to be 120 degrees Rishis of ages gone by, according to Padma Farenheit in May. The lofty water-fall of Purana, saw Uttara Khand as the most Vasudhara 400 feet high, the glacial lake glorious temple of Nature, abounding in of Sato Panth, Alaka Puri, the source of invaluable spiritual treasures. The whole Alakananda which rises from the snout of of India has been linked with the holy combined glaciers of Bhagirath Kharak and places from ages, behind by the bond of a

231 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA highly consecrated faith, which found its Madan mountain. There they were visited natural home in this land. It is a living faith by the sage Narada who remained with them with every Hindu to visit these shrines once for a thousand years. The Grammarian in his life-time to elevate himself and enrich Vararuchi also visited these Himalayas, and his psychic and spiritual acquisitions. by propitiating Maha Deva obtained from him the material for his Paniniya Grammar. Its Hoary Past Vedas were collected together and divided into four separate parts in Vyas-Guha at Badrinath has a hoary past. It dates from Mana, near Badrinath. The various Puranas the Vedic period. Puranas are all praise to were also compiled here. According to local this seat. It is common belief that some of folk-lore, Ramachandra also retired for the Vedic hymns and the major portions of meditation at Deva-Prayag in his old age the Upanishads were first sung in this part and a temple was built there in of the land called Badarikashram. Tradition commemoration of his visit. Sage Kanwa points to this place as the abode of all the had his Ashram or hermitage at Nand- gods of the Puranas and also as the Prayag and it is said that Shakuntala and Penance Grove of all the Maharshis, sages, Dushyant were betrothed there. saints and seers, ancient and modern. There are several ancient places in Uttara Ancient Seat of Philosophies Khand which are equally charged with sanctity. In fact, every rock and pool here Five out of the six founders of the various is associated with some Hindu legend. schools of Philosophy started their schools Places, where Pandavas are supposed to in Uttara-Khand, such as, in have performed penances, King Pandu’s Hardwar; in Badrinath; Gautama Ashram at Pandukeshwar, the places where on the banks of River Saraswathi, near ancient Kings performed various sacrifices Badrinath; Garg, the great astronomer, and ceremonies have all become places of performed his devotions in the Drona Giri pilgrimage. mountains and it is perhaps because of By common tradition the land from Nand this that astronomy is well preserved in Prayag up to Satya-Path (Satopanth ), this part of country. No wonder, therefore, fifteen miles beyond Badrinath, is that a visit to this holy land is considered considered to be Badri Vishal Kshetra. The by the Hindus as marking the fruition of all very name, “Badrikashram” suggests how earthly desires and a means of liberation unique this place is. Another place goes from the transmigration of the soul. The by the name of Ashram. In Mahabharata, holy land is known by different names in it is said, that Lord Krishna visited the Hindu scriptures, viz., Deo Bhumi, Brahma hermitage of Manu, and the Pandavas in Rishi Desh, Panchala Desh, Kedar Khand, their exile lived for a considerable time in Uttara Khand and Badrikashram. Badrikashram. In their previous incarnation, Arjun as Nara and Krishna as Narayana performed austerities here on the Gandha

232 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Attracting Foreigners unsurpassed elsewhere. The human interest is stronger than in any other mountain The Foreigners are also great devotees of region of the world, for these anciently this land. Writing in the Valley of Flowers, named peaks are written out in the earliest a book about this land, Mr. F. S. Smythe, annals of the Indo-Aryan race. They are the world famous mountaineer, says: “ That the home of the Gods. For two hundred Kumaon and Garhwal should be specially million Hindus the shrines of Uttara Khand consecrated to the Gods of Indian religious still secure supreme merit to the devout mysticism, is easily understandable. Is pilgrim.” there any region of the Himalayas, or even With its scenic lure, tree-clad hills, of the world, which would excel this region snowcapped peaks, rippling streams, in beauty and grandeur? Where else are to foaming torrents, magnificent water-falls, be found such narrow and precipitous roaring rivers, gaping gorges and mountain valleys and gorges, such serene vistas of lakes, the holy Uttara Khand is not only a alp, forest, snow-field and peak? This place of Supreme Hindu pilgrimage but it is ‘Abode of Snow’ is rightly the goal of the also a Tourist Paradise. In scenery and heat-enervated people of the plains. Never climate, this holy land has been compared was there a pilgrimage of finer to Switzerland and Norway at its best. accomplishment. It is the perfect antidote to a static life, and it cannot fail to inspire Pandukeshwar (6,000 ft): This place in the dullest a nobler conception of the is eight miles from on Badrinath Universe”. route. It is named after the Pandavas and has two very old temples dedicated to Yog Mystic Grandeur Badri and another to Vasudeva. These temples were said to have been built by About the natural beauty and mystic the Pandavas. grandeur of this Himalayan Sector, Dr. T. G. Longstaff, another Westerner, who Joshi Math (6,107 ft.): It is one of the climbed Mount (23,369 ft.) in 1907, four monasteries founded by Adi Swami gives his opinion in the following glowing Sankaracharya. The Skanda Purana on words: “After six visits to the snows, I still Kedar Khand discloses several legends believe that Uttara Khand is the most which show this place to be an ancient beautiful country of all High Asia. Neither mythical seat. The modern name of this the primitive immensity of the Kara Korum, place is Joshimath. There are several the aloof domination of Mount Everest, the ancient temples here, prominent among softer Caucasian beauties of the Hindu them being those of Narasimha. Vasudeva Kush, nor any of the many other regions and Nav Durga. Joshi Math is linked with of Himachal can compare with Uttara Rishikesh by a 158-mile-Iong motor road. Khand. Mountain and valley, forest and alp, Kedamatli (11,759 ft.): It is one of the birds and animals, butterflies and flowers, twelve Jyotir Lingas of Lord Shiva. The holy all combine to make a sum of delight temple is built on a ridge jutting out at

233 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA right angles from the snowy range, below the peak of Maha Panth. The temple is dedicated to Sada Siva, the invisible form of Siva. The Pandavas perished here on the way to Maha Panth. Just behind the temple, is a glacier from where the emerges giving a picturesque view of what is known as the “Boiling Ocean.” There is also a tank known as Gaurikund (7,00 ft.): It is on - “Udak Kund” which contains mercury. Kedarnath route. There are two Kunds Kedarnath is ten miles from Son-prayag bus (pools of water) for bathing by the side of terminus. the icy- cold Mandakini river. The one pool contains extremely hot water and the other Triyugi Narayana (6,000 ft.)The marriage extremely cold water. The story of the of Shiva and Parvati was said to have been marriage of the fifty daughters of Mandhatri performed here at Agni-Kund, which is one to the old ascetic Saubhari is current in of the five kunds here, and the sacrificial connection with a temple here. fire has been kept burning all along the subsequent three Yugas and great virtue Ukhimatli (4,300 ft.) It is situated on is ascribed to the ashes of this celestial Kedamath-Chamoli road. It is on the left fire. The other four Kunds are : Brahma bank of the Mandakini river. There is a Kund, Vishnu Kund, Rudra Kund and temple of Lord Siva here which has metal Saraswathi Kund, where ablutions and other images of Siva, Parvati, Mandhata, ceremonies are performed. It is on Gangotri- Aniruddha and Usha, Aniruddha’s spouse. Kedarnath route. Ukha was the daughter of Banasur, and

234 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA she was given the name of the place. great sanctity, where pilgrims boil rice and There are also images of nine Durgas here. potatoes. The valley is highly enchanting. It is the winter-seat of the Kedarnath establishment. (3,800 ft.): Uttarkashi seems to have been a place of great renown from Kalimath : It is a sacred place of the the very beginning of the Epic period. It is blessed Goddess. The principal objects of identified with the place where a house of veneration are : the images of Maha Kali, the lac and inflammable materials had been Maha Lakshmi, Maha Saraswati, Gauri built for duping Yudhishtra and his Shankar, Mahadeva and Bhairava. It lies brothers into death, There are many old on the left bank of Kali river and is three temples. The temple of Shri Vishwanath is miles from Guptakashi. worth visiting. An ancient trident bearing an inscription stands near it. Great antiquity Panch Kedars is ascribed to the monument. The temple of Ekadashi Rudra is very beautiful. It is Madmaheshwar ; It is fifteen miles from situated on the banks of the Bhagirathi Ka1imath. It is situated at the base of river, and is surrounded by the Varuna and peaks at an altitude of 11,474 Asi rivers. Lord Viswanath, who, according feet. It is one of the Panch-Kedars, The to tradition, had once said that when his temple is closed during winter when the temple at Varanasi lost its importance in silver image at Mahadeva is taken out down Kaliyug, he would reside in Uttarkashi. It is to . The stone Linga remains also said that the Kirata and Arjuna duel permanently in the temple. took place here. These mythological anecdotes impart great importance to this Guptakashi (4,850 ft.): It is on Kedarnath small town. Other temples are: Shakti, route. There are two very old temples, one Parasuram and Kali. It is on Gangotri route. of Chandra Sekhar Mahadeva and the other of Ardha Narishwar and a sacred tank. Gangotri (10,319 ft.): It stands on Ukhimath is visible from here on the the right bank of the Bhagirathi river. It is opposite side. said that Raja Bhagirath made his stupendous efforts to bring down the Yamnotri (10,000 ft.): It stands on the Ganges at Srikanth Parbat, near this place, western flank of the great peak of Bandar- and later the Pandavas are said to have Poonch which is 20,731 feet above the performed the great Deva Yajna, at this sea level. The peak is always snow-clad place in atonement for the death of their and forms the watershed of Hanuman- kinsmen in the epic battle of Kurukshetra. Ganga and Tons river. The main temple is The main temple here is of Goddess dedicated to the Goddess Yamuna and is Bhagirathi. four miles below the glacier from which the sacred river Yamuna issues. There is a group of hot springs here which are held in

235 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Rishikesh A Celestial Manifestation on Earth: The Himalayas

The Himalayas are not a mountainous group like others; it seems as if some luminous planet had shot out of space and Mountain-peaks and Mental suddenly planted itself upon the green Profundities earth, so cosmically great, so unearthly, so out of all relation with manifestation of hese arc Nature’s Cathedrals where this planet do they appear. Formation is aspiring humanity may worship all laid upon formation, flora upon flora and that is pure and sublime in nature’s T fauna upon fauna. In the fourteen miles Creation” so said a British humanist when from Haridwar to Rishikesh subtropical he described some soaring mountain peaks. vegetation gradually changes to Arctic, the This observation fits the Himalayas more realm of elephants is succeeded by that truly than any other mountain range. To a of bears and finally of the snow-leopard. man of universal spirit the universe speaks. And above this world, the real Hirnavat It has a tongue and voice, which cannot begins and one thing is certain; if the realm be known or heard save by mystics and of gods lies anywhere it does lies here. On sages. It is they who withdrew from the every side, there is the rich greenery of weariness and worries of the world and tropical forests; skirted all round, fold upon shifted their gaze from the terrestrial and fold, by mountain ranges with tiny hat- the temporal to the abiding and the eternal. field terraces that stand out like green frills It is to them that Nature unveils herself on the mountain slopes. It is through this and yields the secret of unity that binds that the convoy of bus wend its way to all creatures “with a gold chain about the Hrishikesh (Rishikesh). feet of God.” Freed from the strife for existence and Tradition and away from tumultuous throngs, the mind of these people turned inward and According to local tradition the place investigated the world within. Their findings derives its name from the fact that Rishis yielded in time a rich harvest that gained victory over the tyranny of their abundantly filled the storehouses of senses at this place (Hrishika - Senses, philosophy, ethics, theology, science, art Isa - lord). This place is also called and literature. This research was Kulyamraka, land of the bent Mango tree. conducted in the secret recesses of caves This name was given to it also according concealed in the Himalayan ranges. to another tradition, which states that Lord Himalayas are the crown and glory of India. Vishnu appeared to a sage here on the Her grandeur, eminence and achievements branch of a bent mango tree. Once in these take their rise among these rising ranges. mountainous forests the Mahatmas dwelt, silent, unrecognised supermen who guided

236 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA unselfishly the destiny of mankind. They moving vehicles and is filled with the gases had transcended the limitation of matter. from exhaust tubes. There is a regular They possess a mortal frame and appear bazaar with all available provisions; even less than our great men do as far as conveniences like schools, and wealth is concerned. Yet they are more, large official buildings stand where because they are completely free. Their vegetation once abounded. Besides this, consciousness embraces the world, they there are also Ashrams where Sadhus are leap from star to star, just as we do from supplied with free meals twice a day. memory to memory. This Himalayan region Notable among this is the Kali Kambliwallah was the resort of many such saints and Kshetra. sages. One who lived in recent times whose Long, long ago when Rishikesh was still gentle loving spirit has been wafted out unsung and unheard of, but by these few into the world at large is the sage of Ananda strange people, there was a place here Kutir commonly called Swami Sivananda. called Jhati -an island surrounded by the He made service to humanity his aim and waters of the Ganges and thickly covered the monastery formed by him is here in by large trees. Rishikesh. It is known as the Forest Now, that island has almost vanished due Academy and is at a place called Muni ki to the change in the course of the river. Reti. Many Sadhus have stayed here. One such This was once the favourite resort of great mahatma was Swami Visuddhananda, more rishis from as far back in time as is possible familiarly known a Babu Kali Kambli Wallah. for man to remember. The hermitage of the He came to be known by this peculiar name, and Rajarishis like Sri because he covered his body always with Ramachandra and Lakshmana are still to a black blanket. His was a life of total self- be found here. There is an ancient and denial. In spite of his greatness he remained famous temple here dedicated to Lord a stranger to fame. Suddenly, she pursued Bharata. Other temples here are Varaha him and rained untold wealth at his feet. Mandir and Chandreswar Mandir. Wealthy men now placed themselves at the disposal of the poor ascetic, but The Transformed Rishikesh unmoved, he sat amidst the hoarded wealth, untouched he allowed it to remain, Until a few years ago, owing to the till an idea struck him that he should build inaccessibility of the region and the lack dharmasalas that would provide food and of food supplies, only a few hermits living shelter for the Sannyasins passing by, thus on whatever nature supplied, and bent on it is that Kali Kambli Wallah Kshetras exist a secluded life, took up their permanent in all places of Uttarakhand. He set an abode here. Now, with the change of times example here as to how a Sadhu who comes Rishikesh has developed into a township. by wealth, because of the vasanas carried The place that once resounded with the over from previous lives, should conduct roaring of tigers and chattering of monkeys himself. now resounds with trumpeting of fast

237 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Lakshman Jhoola and Neelakanth The Gateway to Three miles to the north-east of Hrishikesh Other Heights there is a place of pilgrimage called Lakshman Jhoola. It is from here that pilgrims travel on to another spot called AY, June and July are months when Brahmapuri. At Lakshman Jhoola, there is schools are closed and the a suspension bridge, below which the Msweltering heat of the plains makes Ganges frisks and frolics away in divine life intolerable. Life simmers in a boiling child-like glee. Close to this place is the cauldron. It is at such a time that people temple of Lord Lakshmana. Lakshman Jhoola who are blessed with the means of escape marks the limit of Hrishikesh. flee to cooler regions. Conveyances are After going through the dusty bazaars of packed to capacity with all sorts of people. Rishikesh, with its traffic jam caused by Special carriages are attached to trains incoming and outgoing buses, one comes carrying people to various places, students to Mani Ki Reti, where the Headquarters of on excursions, government officials to the Divine Life Society stand. A little further summer resorts or to their home towns and and across the Ganges is Swargasram, set pilgrims to certain spots in India. A secret against a background of rising mountains India whose spiritual life still exists despite with the Ganges flowing past. Here there the storms of political agitation that rages is a spacious building, the Gita Bhavan, all around and hides it. It is still that same where discourse go on from May to July. India, where man yearns for serenity and Many great Mahatmas like Swami peace as he did hundreds of years ago. , , Palaknidhji, These pilgrims throng in large numbers on Ramsukhdasji Chakrapaniji have visited and their trip to the holy shrines nestling on sanctified it. the dizzy heights of the Himalayas. Kedar, Seven or eight miles to the east of Badri, Uttar Kasi, Gangotri, are some places Hrishikesh is a spot called Neelakant. The in Uttar Khand where people from all over way to it lies through thick forests, dark- India go at least once in their life time. To green with rich foliage of vilva trees. Here reach there they gather at Hardwar, are a number of small hermitages, where Hardwar doubly sanctified by Siva as well silent ones come to pend hours of prayer as Vishnu is now a crowded town where and contemplation. the old and the new jostle and compete for prominence. Modern buildings are wedged in between ancient structures of domes and minarets. The ochre Flag flutters right in the market place drawing one’s attention to some temple that has been elbowed back, by other buildings. It is here that the Ganges sweeps down into

238 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA the plains to nourish and fertilise the lush called Kumbha Mela. The main Ghat at fields that grow on either side of her banks. which people come for the bath is called Here one enters a special world of din and “Hari Ki Pairi “, so called because it is said noise, calm and quiet, ancient and ante- to have the imprint of Lord Vishnu’s feet deluvian, modern and sophisticated, yet on a stone wall. This most sacred bathing everywhere one breathes the deep, rich Ghat was at one time very small. During air of tradition and sanctity and an aura of Kumbha Mela and other auspicious something intangible enfolds you. occasions there is a great rush of pilgrims, Ochre-robed anchorites roam around with who vie with one another to have a bath their time-honoured staff and bowl. Mutts at the appointed time. A number of people and Ashrams with their tiny spires defy the may get crushed to death. The Government onward march of time, and stand out has since taken steps and re-built the place defiant and uncompromising as Truth itself. to accommodate more people. The timeless back-ground, crumbling stone Near Hari Ki Pairi is the Gangadwara temple, walls, dusty roads and cool freshness of the biggest and the most important temple the Ganges water bring a host of here. It is visited by innumerable pilgrims associations - legends, traditions, heard during Mela. The place where the Ganges long ago from the ancient books of India. emerges from the hills is called Gangadwara. Yes, this is Hardwar, the gate-way to the South of Gangadwara are a number of mightier heights, the hostess to millions of temples, Mutts and Ashrams. There is a people who come here to purify themselves temple dedicated here to Lord Siva called by a dip in the water of the Ganges, or Sravannath, A mile’s drive from Hardwar, better still a sub-sanctum for those who past dusty roads through main tree-lined are to proceed to other places. Though roads and lush fields, and one come to she has become partly modernised, she has Maya Puri. There are three old temples there been careful not to lose her ancient, of Maya Devi, Bhairava and of Narayana. traditional purity. The Ganges having Among the seven sacred places it is Maya originated at , trips to Gangotri, Puri that is mentioned. Jwalapur is four miles leaps and cascades through Uttar Kasi and from Hardwar. The priests from the temples Rishikesh, and finally steps down from Her of Hardwar have their homes here. On the eminence here at Hardwar into dignified opposite side of the canal there is a stream, silence. Therefore she is also known as which originates as a cataract from the Gangadwar. Neel Parvat. This cascade is called Neel Astrology, the hoary science of the stars, Dhara. A part of it has been diverted and has always had a hold on the people of made to flow within the confining walls of India. Hardwar becomes the scene of a the canal. Pilgrims have a bath in the mass congregation once in twelve years, refreshing waters of this fall, and then go when the Planet Jupiter posits itself in the to the temple of Neeleswar. It is said that Constellation called Aquarius. Milling, a great devotee of Lord Siva who was jostling crowds of pilgrims come to sanctify called Neela did penance to propitiate the their lives here at that time for a festival Lord, and so to honour him this place is

239 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA called Neel Parvat. The temple built here before worshipping in the temple. These is dedicated to Lord Siva. Seekers often are some of the places of interest in emulate that which great Saints have done Hardwar. before them. So the ground has been Millions throng Hardwar at all times to have trodden on by countless devotees for many a dip here in the Ganges. People come from years after the great Neela did his penance all over India and now even people from all here. over the world are also seen here. In the Lord Dattatreya is said to have performed month of May-July the crowds swell to severe penance at a place called Kusavart alarming proportions endangering the safety Ghat. Before doing so he had placed his of the common people. Here one finds every bowl, staff, and other things on the banks colour, costume and type, from the tanned of the Ganges. The Ganges, as she coursed skins of the Southerners to the bleached down, washed these things but was unable ones from Kashmir, brightly turbaned to go forward and she went on whirling Rajputs with a sprinkling of the sober round and round. After his penance he saw Sannyasins. Languages and dialects his things caught in the whirlpool. Pleased without number resound in the air. Different with the intensity of his devotion, it is said traditions proclaim themselves from that the Trinity manifested themselves, and different faces, caste rubs shoulders with asked what they could do for him. At his out-caste, pride with prejudice and in the request that they should remain there they fervour all differences are brought to are said to have taken their abode there. nought. “Jaya Gange”, “Hara Hara Gange” Later on, the Ganges was allowed to go goes on. Late in the evening, tiny lamps on her way. float on the bosom of Mother Ganges like From Hardwar station, past Hari Ki Pairi, so many fire-flies caught up in a moving across the bridge that spans the river, lies night sky. What strikes one here is that in the way to Bilwakeswar temple. Bilwakeswar spite of the extraordinary differences hill is across the railway line that runs past among pilgrims, somehow or other, they it. There are two images here. One is within seem to be the expression of but one mind. the sanctum and the other is without. Long These people gathered here are not all ago there was a large Bilwa tree here, thinkers, whose business is to understand. under which the image was originally said They are incapable of anticipating a reality to have been. It is on this hill that Gouri behind the natural phenomena of a river or Kund is situated. On the left of the temple may be its sanctity, but they do actually is a shrine dedicated to the Mother. experience the Divinity in the manifest Between these two temples run a creation of a hidden Divine Power. streamlet in which the pilgrims take a bath

240 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA The Forest Academy practised intense austerities and shone as a great Yogin, Sage and Jivan Mukta. of Rishikesh Somewhere around 1930 he was gripped by a powerful desire to serve the world. Driven by this desire, Swami Sivananda The Sage of Ananda Kutir emerged out of his seclusion in Swargasram, where he was doing sadhana, and entered E find our own lives in losing them the cities and towns and mingled with the in the service of others. The masses. There was a sparkle in his eyes Wmore of our lives we give to and fire in his speech. The Sivananda who others the fuller, richer and cast a spell on the vast more rewarding our own lives audience in Sitapur, become”. This is an expression Lakshimpur, the Sankirtan of one of the greatest saints, Samrat, who sang and and nowhere was it so explicitly danced his way into the exemplified as in the life of the hearts of tens of Sage of Ananda Kutir, thousands in Rawalpindi commonly called Swami and Lahore, and threw Sivananda Maharaj of them into high ecstasy, Rishikesh. Rishikesh is equated left no one in doubt about in the popular mind with the his being a realised soul. Divine Life Society and that in When and where he its turn means Swami attained the illumination, Sivananda, its founder. no one knew. Swami Sivananda’s love of man and the desire to serve him made him a The Swargashram and Its Vision doctor of medicine, where like a ministering angel he never spared himself. He poured In Swargashram itself Swamiji saw a field out all his love and compassion on his for service awaiting him. He wanted to suffering brothers and sisters in far off serve the Sadhu community, who suffered Malaya. Ere long, his country beckoned to from physical privation, as well as spiritual him and he could not disregard her call. starvation for want of proper nourishment This was a divine dispensation, that the from appropriate sources. Swamiji surmised doctor of the body and mind forsook his that once the physical and spiritual needs career as such and took to a life of of the Sadhus were taken care of and their renunciation to qualify himself for confidence won, their energies could be ministering to man’s spiritual needs as well. channelised for their own uplift as well as for the public good. Practice of Austerities With this end in view he founded the Swargashram Sadhu Sangh, on August He settled down in Rishikesh in 1924, 24th, 1933. Even as the bees swarm round 241 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA a “full blown bloom”, disciples rushed to Gokulashtami. Close to the Viswanath him from all parts of the country. Thus was temple is Swamiji’s Samadhistan. People born the Sivanandasram in 1932 in its from all over the world come here in search natural sequence. The Divine Life Society of that Peace which has taken a permanent came into existence, and it has now abode here. The Ashram has its own Printing branches in all parts of the world. In 1948, Press, from which streams out a perennial Yoga Vedanta Forest Academy was flow of spiritual literature. Just facing the organised for the dissemination of spiritual Press is the Sivananda Pillar, a neat marble knowledge and training of Sannyasins in structure on which is inscribed the essence Yoga. of Swamiji’s teachings and a brief life sketch The Divine Life Society of this great lover of mankind. Nearby is the hall, where the chanting of the The headquarters of the Divine Life Society, Lord’s name is maintained round the clock. Sivanand Nagar, Rishikesh is a tribute to This hall serves as venue for Yoga classes, the oceanic love one servant of God had discourses and night-satsang. for His children. The Ashram township stands on the slopes of the Himalayas with A Monument of the Master’s Love Ganges flowing by. It has its own temple, prayer hall, printing press, hospital etc. As a monument of the Master’s perennial Above all, here live and work a band of love of mankind stands the Sivananda dedicated monks trained by the great Charitable Hospital, which caters to the Master for the service of humanity. needs of the patients from the neighbourhood and distant villages. The The Sivananda Ashram Sivananda Ayurvedic Pharmacy, which was started at his instance, has now grown to Sivananda Ashram is at a distance of 3 enormous dimensions, and its diverse Km. from Rishikesh accessible by taxis. medical products and tonics are popular Widest possible dissemination of spiritual both in India and abroad. knowledge is the primary object of the Thus to the sanctity of this pilgrim centre Divine Life Society. All its activities are is added one more feature and one more turned towards this one aim. Its activities centre. The Narada Bhakti say that are manifold and concentrated on the a Tirtha is reinforced in its sanctity by the campus itself, both spiritual and secular, presence of a Mahatma. Truly has the and are carried on by different suggestion of the Sutra been fulfilled in departments. Here the pilgrim finds himself the sacred place. May the band of selfless in the Viswanath Mandir, which contains monks that he has created increase! the Linga established by Swami Sivananda himself. It has also a shrine with the image of Murali Manohar and other deities, where worship is offered three times a day on special occasions like Sivaratri and

242 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA The Mother Mountain The legend behind the birth of the temple goes to say that a tyrant by name Bhairav, at the Peaks coveted the hand of the virgin and kept on harrassing her, urging her to marry him; she ran away to escape his pestering and Temple in the Himalayan took refuge in the cave on top of Trikuta Ranges hill, but Bhairav followed her there too, and seeing no other way out, she killed HE fleecy snow-clad mountain ranges him by directing her gaze, luminous, deadly, echo with the melodies of the charged with the power of her Virtue and Tdevotees’ songs and chants Divinity on him. Even after the death of expressing the glory of the Mother’s name Bhairav the Goddess stayed on in the cave in Her Divine presence, as the Pilgrims toil and made it her permanent abode. through the ascent and reach Her abode Pilgrimage to this cave-temple is an on the high hills. The beauty and bounty enriching experience. Taken in different of Nature that had always been the pride laps, and through diverse means of of and Kashmir has had an irresistible communication, the pilgrimage provides the fascination for the poet, the artist and the traveller with profound experiences. After simple minded lover of nature from time the long and arduous journey, when the immemorial. The imposing Himalayan Ranges Pilgrims stand gazing at the countenance perpetually vibrate with the sweet silvery of the Mother, their hearts are filled with sounds of the waterfalls, whispering trees deep spiritual satisfaction, providing as it and chirping birds and capture the golden were a balm to their body and soul. Blessed rays of the Sun on their snow-clad peaks, by her vision and refreshed in mind and flashing them back like huge diamonds. body, they go back, carrying the feeling of Little wonder then that these ranges are a Divine presence forever with them. the chosen abode of Gods and Goddesses. The base-camp of the Pilgrimage to the Here, amidst this glorious and breath-taking holy shrine is Katra, -60 Km, North-West beauty rises the three-edged peak of the of Jammu, linked to the winter capital by Trikuta hill, the top of which has been bus route. This neat little town enjoys chosen by Sri Vaishnav Devi, the virgin tropical climate, with fairly warm summers Goddess, dear and revered, beloved of an and mild winters. Though the Trikuta hills her devotees. Her shrine is in the cave of enjoy snowfall, the track leading to the Trikuta Bhagawati, rising to an awe- temple is seldom blocked. Adequate inspiring height of 5,300 feet, at the top- arrangements are made for the pilgrims to most position near the three ridged peak, stay at Katra, and from here they undertake Trikuta of the Shiwalik range. the arduous journey up the mountain, in different stages by foot or on ponies. The Deity in the Cave Pilgrims pour in here from all corners, all The Deity in the cave, Vaishno Devi, is the the year around, and facilities are Virigin Goddess, seen here riding a lion. constantly being expanded and extended

243 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA both in Katra as well as in to be the “Door to the camps en-route to Salvation”. Pilgrims meet the growing demands who succeed in of an increasing number of traversing through Pilgrims. this dark and narrow tunnel consider Journey - lap after lap themselves blessed with the grace and The journey up the hilly the love of the track leading to the shrine Almighty. is undertaken by foot or on Above Adkanwari is a ponies, and the steep cliff rising up surroundings echo the high, called Haathi devotional songs and Matha (Elephant’s greetings of ‘Jai Matadi’ head). The next lap, uttered by the entranced Chhanj Chhat, peak pilgrims The first halt of the (7,215 ft.) is a journey is at Bal Ganga, tiresome climb, and where a rivulet streams, tinkling in silvery rest and refreshment arrangements are ripples. The stream is revered by devotees provided here again to revive the fatigued and held highly sacred, as it is said that Pilgrim. Next to this is Bhairav Ghat, in a the Goddess washed her hair in this stream dense forest, where there is a temple for on her way to the cave. The pilgrims take the tyrant Bhairav. This temple is visited a dip in these holy waters before by the Pilgrims only on their way back from proceeding further. the cave temple of the Goddess. After this “Charan ”, the second lap of the is Mata Da Bagh (Garden of the Mother) journey, has a shrine where the foot-prints and upon crossing this the Pilgrim reaches of the Mother are preserved and the mouth of the cave, the abode of the worshipped by the devotees much the Goddess. It is the end of his arduous same way as the foot- print of the Kanya journey and the point of fulfilment of his (Virgin Goddess) is worshipped at soul’s quest, - a treat to his spiritual hunger. Kanyakumari. The third lap is half way The place is called the Durbar, where again between Katra and the cave, believed to the weary Pilgrim gets a chance to rest as have been the original abode of Goddess he waits eagerly or his turn to enter the Vaishnav Devi, known as Adkanwari. Here narrow passage to the deep cave. The the Pilgrims can have a break to rest and height of the cave is nowhere more than 5 arrangements for refreshments, board and feet and the Pilgrims wade through Charan lodging are provided here for the travel- Ganga, the knee deep icy cold stream that weary Pilgrims. springs up from the feet of the Goddess, Just near the Adkanwari, a narrow tunnel and flows out. Standing, bending slightly called “Garbha ” is found, considered elevated platform, which could hold not

244 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA more than ten or twelve persons in a Amarnath cluster. Upon this, there are three Pindis, or vertical rock-protuberances, under tiny A Pilgrimage to Faith gold canopies and decked with glittering garments and flowers. These three Pindis represent the Goddesses, Maha Kali, Maha E paused in his ascent, and looked Lakshmi, and Saraswathi, believed to be around. There was a look of the three aspects of Goddess Vaishnav Hstunned wonderment in his eyes. Devi. Ever since they crossed Pahlgam, Girish Pilgrims offer cocoanuts, flowers, incense, saw nothing around him but beauty. He clover, cardamom, Supari, Mauli (red cotton was an artist and a poet through and thread) and cash. Some also present the through, and love of beauty charged every Deity with small silver umbrellas and red cell of his blood. When his friends suggested muslin dupattas adorned with silver thread- a trip to Amarnath, he accepted it for his work. They get prasad of cocoanuts and love of beauty and adventure and not for flowers and sometimes small coins, that his love of God, for he believed himself to are treasured as sacred tokens from the be an atheist. Mother’s feet. His close friend Sameer would always say, There is a legend recounting the discovery “You only think you are an atheist. You of the cave. It is said that in ancient times, are really not so. For the matter of that, I a King named Raja Ramachandra of Desai, don’t believe there is anything like atheism lost his way while on a hunting trip and at all. We all have God in our blood. For took refuge in this cave to shelter himself some the presence is felt all along and for from a storm. In the night he had a vision some the realisation of the presence comes of the Goddess blessing him, and he thereby a little late, and for some it does not come came to know of her presence in the cave. at all. But the presence, is there always. I He spread the sacred story of the shrine, would say that an atheist is one who is and it gained popularity and drew devotees not sensitive to the perception of the from all corners of the country. Thus has Divine, not one who is capable of proving the Goddess come to be worshipped by the non-existence of it.” her innumerable devotees from that time Girish invariably answered to all this with a on, who steadily keep lining up the difficult smile, as though to say “All right. Let me track winding through the hills, thirsting feel that presence. Then, I would believe for a glimpse of her graceful countenance, in the existence”. When Sameer started eagerly seeking her benevolent gaze and him off on this trip, he made his conditions. blessing. “Remember I am coming there for my own - Courtesy: Mother India, Feb. 4, 1973 reasons, not to prostrate before your non- (based on article by Shri O. P. Sharma). existent God and nonsensical chantings of Pandas in a language that is almost dead and which most of these pilgrims don’t understand anyway”.

245 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA And now he stood, surrounded by smiled shyly up at him. Where were these overwhelming beauty. It was nature in all flowers the night before? Was he too weary her fresh virgin glory unspoiled by the touch after the trek to notice them, or did they of human passion for regularity and rhyme. spring up all on a sudden? And wherefrom She looked like the new born babe with its is all this beauty surging out, gushing forth disproportionate body, yet possessing a in a cascade? Who is switching it on? These beauty which surpasses all the muscle, ravines, glaciers, this endless variety of sinew and figurine beauty perceived in the colour, petal, wing or leaf, this galaxy of adult. It was a wild and uncontrollable burst stars that twinkled and charmed him the of beauty, and Girish felt more and more night before have all been there even when stunned as the realisation dawned upon man existed only as a proposition, a tiny him that he was infinitesimally small to drink atom to divide and multiply and take shape in this abundance. after a long time. Sameer patted him on his shoulder Chalen, And he is digging into the earth and Girisn Bhaiyan? “If you get rooted every shooting into space, to ascertain the now and then, we won’t reach the cave in elements of things around him. And yet all time to see the full high Linga. these existed before he ever appeared on “You have nothing but that in your mind. earth. You and Your God! Why don’t you let me They started on their journey further, long halt a while? It is such a sin to walk away after all others had gone far beyond, when there is so much beauty around you”. making up for the loss of time by the speed Sameer smiled. “He is my God all right, Girish and energy provided by their youthful body ! and if I could really own him! I don’t think and spirit. The trek was becoming more I’d let anyone share him with me. and more difficult, the huge towering peaks Sometimes I feel like selfishly keeping all all around looming inaccessible above them. his glory and beauty for myself. Oh! leave A tremendous climb of thousands of feet my beliefs alone. The fact is, once you of steep mountain track and they see that Linga, and if it is late, you might encountered the narrow path that blame me for not showing it to you in its meandered zig-zag fashion winding amidst entire beauty. You love beauty, and then and around mountains. Every step had to why grumble to admire it where it is be taken with caution, and they picked present? To me this Linga represents Shiva their way through the wilderness wearily. the supreme power. To you, may be, it will And when the difficulty of access was too represent the Supreme Beauty”. much to cope with, Girish was about to Girish could not but appreciate the reason turn to Sameer and mutter a few words in it. They trudged along to the next halt about “the named silly idea of a supposedly at Chandanwari. As he lay in his tent in loving father sitting at such difficult and the night, Girish felt a little restless. Early inaccessible places, making his children next morning he woke up amidst a burst of suffer”, they reached the end of the path beauty. He was literally reclining on a bed atop the mountain, and the remark died at of flowers. Large blue and white anemones the tip of his tongue. He held his breath as

246 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA the magnitude of the beauty that lay frightening in its dark depths, yet somehow before him sunk slowly into his senses. The imposing in its magnitude and sobriety of ground was literally a huge carpet, of silence. edelweiss. As he stood gazing on it he In the morning they proceeded to Pancha revised in his mind the angry thought that Tarani, the five crystal streams that he was just a while ago contemplating. coursed through the dry river bed. Here “Oh hell! all the trouble of that climb and Girish watched the pilgrims taking their dip even more is worth this beauty. And I feel in each of the five streams, crossing from so because I love beauty. They feel so one to another in their wet garments. The because they love God. Perhaps, where I garments clung to their shivering bodies see beauty alone, they see God, because and they called aloud the Lord’s name they believe in him, and their minds are through their chattering teeth. The turned to perceive him!” He remembered closeness of the garments revealed every the faces of some of the other pilgrims. curve in their bodies. Some were young Some were rustic village folk, while others women, who in any place would wrap were educated seekers. There were Fakirs, themselves shyly, not exposing all their Sannyasis, some who paraded in nude. Yet, beauty. There were the thin, austere bodies what struck you was not any obscenity in of the Sannyasis, their already scanty that unclad body, but a sense of wonder clothes reduced to almost nothingness in at the faith that enabled them to endure protection, and there were those who had the bitter cold with nothing but the skin grotesque ugly figures, every bulge and on them. They gathered in little groups, mass of sagging flesh standing out. chattering while they climbed and what a “You!”, Girish thought, “if you could kill ego, mixture at language and faces it was, Girish shame, differences and diffidences by perceived a sense of oneness among them. merely making them feel your Presence then After all, man-made differences had to die I admire You for it, whether I believe in on a path that led away from human You or not! “ habitation to a world, where nature in her He looked at the snow clad gigantic peaks, primitive stages flourished and reminded and it puzzled him, whether these blue you that here, in her lap you evolved from peaks with their snow-covered tops gave an ape into a human being; and when that birth to the ash-covered blue body of Shiva first stage is remembered, the differences in the primitive mind, or whether a great that developed later would die. personality that surpassed their The road passed on about five hundred understanding, and yet was real to them, feet above Sheshnag, where they camped came to be represented and cherished in in a cold damp place, at a height of about these peaks. 18,000 feet. Surrounding peaks glistened A sort of goat-path in almost vertical hill in the moon-shine like huge figures of sides, becoming in the ascent on the other magnificent personal ties with silver crowns side a tiny stair-case in the turf, led them ruling over their flock below from the dizzy on to the last lap of the journey. A mile heights. Below lay the glacier, open and before the cave was reached, the ice

247 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA ceased and there was a clear stream for the pilgrims to bathe. And then they came The Abode of Siva upon the cave, huge and spacious like a In Snowy Peaks Cathedral. Inside, in the shadow of a deep niche, stood the ice Linga, standing to its f ‘Kanyakumari to Kailas’ is an adage, peak height, glistening white, shining like ancient and true, that expresses the the full moon. Girish stood dumb before Iessential unity of an India that this magnificence, recalling his friend’s recognises no barriers within. “Kailas” brings words, “ If you are late and miss even a to the mental vision of every devout Hindu slight part of the beauty, you will blame the picture of Lord Siva and his consort me for not urging you.” This is not mere Uma, the Eternal Mother. Though hard to beauty! traverse and beset with innumerable This is glory and magnificence taken shape! hardships, circumambulation of this Little wonder they all stand in raptured inaccessible peak is the consummation of devotion chanting only the Name. And the pious desire of pilgrims from all over where are the unintelligible chantings of a India. It is not only worshipped by Hindus dead language? Here is a God, a and Buddhists but also by the Jains, who phenomenon of unquestionable, call it the Asta Pada mountain. answerless, existence. You toil and traverse This peak is about 22,028 feet above sea insurmountable heights to stand in His level. Of all the pilgrim centres in India the presence, and your lips form the chantings trek to Manasarovar - Kailas is the most that come from your heart’s core. The tedious. The only other place comparable prayer is simple and the happiness glorious. to this “Swargarohan” or Muktinath, that Girish stood staring at the pinnacle of ice lies beyond Badrinath. Even this journey is which glowed with a strange beauty of completed in a few days. But a pilgrimage shape and symmetry that could not have to Manasarovar - Kailas demands a stay been shaped by any human effort. The of about three weeks in Tibet - “the roof Linga glowed softly before him, blissful in of the world” under extreme climatic its serene white beauty and he gazed at conditions. it, unable to turn away his mind and eyes It requires one to traverse almost the entire from it. And he felt suddenly very light in length of the Himalayas with its mind, floating like an edelweiss in the air, unpredictable variations of weather, strong unburdened of all the turbulent thoughts winds, treacherous precipices and that weighed upon his sensitive mind. insufferable cold, which pose a mighty - Adapted from The Collected Works of challenge to man’s endurance. Sister Nivedita. The rarified atmosphere here makes breathing difficult, and hence it is found helpful for one to equip oneself with an oxygen mask. Pilgrims in their zest for scaling insurmountable heights have from time 248 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA immemorial walked along these lonely tracks and left behind certain beaten paths, that others coming after them may follow. Four such paths that lead to Manasarovar - Kailas are ( 1) from Kashmir to Laddhak, (2) through Nepal to Muktinath, It is only along the route, which passes (3) through Dharma Darreh and ( 4) through through Joshi Mutt, that one has to get Gangotri. These paths wind their solitary the assistance of coolies right to the end. ways through deserted dangers. Hence The pilgrimage to Kailas is undertaken these paths are meant for the anchorites between the months of June and August. accustomed to the austere path of The journey lasts for a period of 1 t to 2 renunciation and self-denial, who accept months covering 400 miles, often danger and death as normal incidents of confronting formidable peaks and crossing their life. Even the traders who inhabit the deep chasms. Pilgrims have to cross bordering area cross these regions, practically the entire length of the mounted on mules, yaks or packhorses. Himalayas leaving behind Garbiang, the last There are three routes that are the ones town in the Indian territory. Thus away most readily taken: (1) From on from the sights and sounds of man’s the N. W. Railway by bus to Pithor Garh (in perpetual activity, one goes on for days Almorah) and from there on through Lipu with the undisturbed companionship of by foot. (2) From the same rail route to forest and mountain peaks and enter the Khat Gotham, then by bus to Kupot Tibetan territory, where one comes to () , then trek through Otty ; Jayanti, Takkalkot, where about 300 Buddhist monks Kungri-Bingri Ghats and on to Niti Ghat reside. onwards. (3) By the Northern Railway to Again a distance of 34 miles covered by Rishikesh and from there by bus to Joshi huge mountains, plateau lands down purple Mutt, and from there by foot. Pilgrims on mountain faces, weird geological formations any of the above three paths do not require reaching towards the sky is traversed and a permit to cross over to Tibet. They do then all at once one comes across two not face any inconvenience as far as guide, vast lakes, surrounded by mountain-peaks. transport, shelter and food are concerned. Viewed from an eminence they look like

249 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA two over-sized human eyes. Rising between underground caverns and cascade down these two lakes is a prominent hill, which to form the source of these rivers. resembles a human nose. Of these one in The biting cold does not encourage the Manasarovar and the other is Rakshastal. existence of any type of vegetation except The famous Manasarovar is circular or oval grass and a thorny bush that grows to a in structure. Its sparkling blue or aqua- height of a foot and a half. Bits of marine waters fill up a depth of 22 miles. multicoloured crystalline rock are found According to some learned sources scattered all round the lakes. Mount Kailas Manasarovar is among the 51 shakti is about 20 miles from this place. One gets peethas. Its waters are icy cold, and no an enthralling vision of this magnificent life could exist here, but a few swans are mountain before reaching Manasarovar. found floating on the crystal surface of Carved, moulded and smoothed into a Linga this lake. To see and hear them is an by celestial hands, Kailas is truly a sight overwhelming experience of shattering for the gods. Surrounded by a fantasy of noise and beguiling grace. They drift spires and steeples, which nature has through rippling waters, haughty and sculptured with her own hands, it looms langurous until a single hoot of alarm drives large into the vision of the pilgrim drawing them splashing and struggling across the out of his exhausted body, travel-weary surface, their necks arched with strain. mind and expectant and anguished heart They sweep into the wind and their flight- the cry of “Sambho-Mahadeva”. Kailas is, quills clatter, as the great wings unfurl and indeed, spectacular in that it is the only settle into a slow undulating beat. There black granite structure here that appears are two species of swans; one is to have been miraculously fashioned into immaculate white and the other slightly a Linga - the immutable, eternal and form- golden. Rakshastal is a very broad lake less symbol worshipped as Siva. This quadrilateral in shape and rounded off at fantastic structure is set amidst 16 peaks certain points. At places the arms, that of red sand- stone that have lent form the quadrilateral stream off to great themselves to the ravages of time. Only distances that get lost into the mysterious fourteen of these are discernible; two have caverns in the surrounding heights. It is almost been flattened out. Gleaming in its said that Ravana had stood in severe immaculate glory Mount Kailas raises its penance in this lake to propitiate the great head high above the surrounding peaks, Lord of Kailas. Indications are there to show and it bears a crown of perpetual snow. It that once the waters from Manasarovar stands out as a symbol of ineffable grandeur left by rivulets to join the Rakshastal. Some and sanctity. Like pure and unsullied foreign writers are of the opinion that Rivers consciousness it rises above the mundane Sarayu and Brahmaputra have their origin material planes. Scores of rivers and here. There is no external evidence rivulets course down its sides to water the available to substantiate this to a casual vast plains below and bring life and observer. It is said that the waters of the animation to the whole area. On the whole Manasarovar travel for miles through this structure looks like a mighty sixteen-

250 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA petalled lotus with a snowy prominence dominating its centre. The Pilgrimage To the pious concourse that has trudged Range of Kurukshetra its way up to this summit, away from the A Compiled Feature tumult of their daily life, on to the tranquil panorama spreading out before them-Kailas Traditional Importance is not merely a geological structure of granite surrounded by sandstone-peaks but URUKSHETRA, traditionally known as a veritable temple, where human the matrix of Indian thought, was at aspirations find expression in whole-hearted Kone time, the most important centre worship. The infinite potentialities latent of Aryan culture and it is believed that it in man make him forget the vast stretches was here that Hindu society and religion that he has left behind, the hazardous risks took a definite form and shape. The great that he has gambled with. He now stands, river Saraswathi perennially flowed through a humble devotee in front of this Mighty this region. On its banks, Sage Vyasa wrote Lord. A complete circumambulation of the immortal epic of Mahabharata. The Mount Kailas with its surrounding peaks great Vedas, Upanishads and Puranas covers a distance of 32 miles and takes 3 originated in this part of the land. Pandavas days. With unflagging spirit he still goes and fought the war of on and takes a dip in the icy waters of righteousness, and Lord Krishna gave the Gowri Kund, which has its source in Kailas. message of the Gita to the inspired Then alone does he feel that his pilgrimage perception of Arjuna no wonder, this place is complete. occupies a position of great distinction and To a devout Hindu Kailas is a symbol of as commands considerable reverence amongst that is pure and inspiring. It is the one places of pilgrimage in India. shrine, to which his thoughts turn Kurukshetra derives its name from King throughout his quest after Truth. The great Kuru, ancestor of the Kauravas and the saints and sages of India and her seers Pandavas, between whom the war of have been associated with it from hoary Mahabharata was fought. It is regarded times. Even in these days of gathering as a war between the forces of good and unbelief man turns to Kailas seeking on its evil in which the Pandavas were victorious. snowy heights the peace and tranquility Kuru, after an arduous penance was granted which no other spot of refuge can provide. a boon whereby Kurukshetra became a holy land despite continuous ravages of foreign conquerors from the north-west, Kurukshetra continued to retain its sanctity. This holy spot, with the ruined mounds of the mighty historic city of Staneshwar on which exists the pitifully small town of Thanesar, through the ages continued to draw vast numbers of pilgrims 251 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA from all over our land, throughout the year established free kitchens for the benefit and particularly on the occasion of the of the sadhus and pilgrims and endowed Solar Eclipse occurring every few years. the temples and other Holy Places with land and money. Maharaja Ranjit Singh also Centre of Learning and Culture sent gifts for decorating the temples situated here. It is only in the Post- Kurukshetra was a great centre of learning Independence Era that the famous Gita and culture, and its University vied in range Mandir (Birla Temple) - a magnificent and academic excellence even with structure, came to be built. Nalanda. Emperor Harsha who reigned in Kurukshetra presents scenes of intense the seventh century made Sthaneshwar religious fervour, when lakhs of people from the seat of Western Provinces of his all parts of India representing all shades of Empire, and it became the centre of Hinduism gather on the occasion of the Sanskrit learning, literature and philosophy. solar Eclipse and other fairs. According to The remains of the stone temples and other the Puranas, anybody who takes a bath in spots found in the villages on the banks of the Kurukshetra tanks at the time of the Saraswathi and Ghaggar signify power, Solar Eclipse acquires immense merit. prosperity and wealth of the realm. It is for the expiation of sins and self- Kurukshetra has also been sanctified by purification that the orthodox, who various Gurudwaras dedicated to the undertake all sorts of hardships come to memory of the Sikh Gurus who visited this have a dip in the holy waters at Kurukshetra place of pilgrimage. on the occasion of the Solar Eclipse. Lying on the high road to Delhi, the place is located on the path of travellers, pilgrims, marauders as well as conquerors. Right up to the eighteenth century Kurukshetra remained practically a battle field where aspirants to the throne of Delhi tried their luck. Conditions became peaceful after the invasions from the North-West stopped alter the establishment of the rule of the Sikh Principalities or Mislas. This was about the year 1765, when Ahmed Shah Durand, frustrated in his design to rule over Punjab, finally retreated to Kabul.

Meeting point of Faiths

The Sikh Rajas who had established their States on this side of Sutlej, such as those of Patiala, Nabha, Jind, Kaithal and Ladwa

252 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA imagination freely in their works. A special Pashupathinath feature of the budding art in Nepal is a mellowed mingling of Buddhist and Hindu ideas and symbols. The great temple of Pashupathinath, on the Bhagmati river, is EPAL is the only independent Hindu the famous shrine in Nepal. The temple Kingdom that lies beyond the tower shaped like a Pagoda and has two Nfrontiers of India. Here one finds tiers. The roofs are gilded, and there is a an amalgam of what is finest in the Buddhist silver plated facade. and Hindu religions. This was the country The Lord worshipped here has the form of that mothered one of India’s finest sons, a Linga about three and a half feet high, who is worshipped by Her people today as on which four faces have been carved out. an incarnation. He has cast the mantle of It is said that a tribal chieftain once invaded His gentle compassion far and wide claiming Nepal in the 13th century; the brooding a following that is scattered all over the face of the Lord that he encountered made globe. His teaching has its root in Hinduism, him flee. Pashupathinath is Nepal’s “holy but it has avoided the curse of “don’t of holies” and binds the Nepalese by a touchisms” and the dead-weight of common bond all over the world. Saivism superstitions found in the parent religion. is Nepal’s State religion, as the great This is also the land that has produced Pashupathinath is Nepal’s presiding Deity. ’Sita’ whose very name stands for all that Pashupathinath was once the guardian is chaste and pure in womanhood. This is Deity of the herdsmen. Today he commands that part of Bharat which has been the homage of the Kings and Generals of immortalised in one of the greatest Epics Nepal as well as of the commoners all over of India as the birth-place of the Sage- India. Pashupathinath’s abode in King, Janaka, cited as an illustrious example has given it a status akin to of a perfect Karma Yogin, father of Sita, Varanasi. pattern of India’s womanhood. The Bhagmati river flows gently by the Some of the highest peaks of the Himalayan temple through a small gorge between two range are in Nepal. Dhaval Giri (26,826 ft.), hills. One hill is densely wooded and is called Gonsai Than (26,291 ft.) and Mount Everest Mrigasthali, because Lord Siva is said to (the highest peak) that had posed a have assumed the form of a deer (Mriga) challenge to many a mountaineers, is also and roamed these forests. The other hill is found here. It has a stunning variety of called Kallas, that is covered mostly by imposing heights, white-plumed water-falls grass. cascading into rivers and placid lakes. Flights of steps lead from the gorge to the Nepal has had a separate temple complex river, where the devoted come to breathe although it has been tinged largely with a their last in the hope of securing release distinctively Indian touch. The Nepalese by the grace of the Lord Siva. Like the architects, like their Indian masters or Manikarnika Ghat at Varanasi, this too is a Tibetan pupils,’ did not try to unleash their sanctified spot to which people go in order

253 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA to shuffle off their mortal coil before far-away temples in Kerala. Historians are “Maheswara”, whose “Taraka Mantra” has of the opinion that the Newars of Nepal the power to effect final release of aspiring and the of Kerala have a common souls. origin. In the dim past when travel was Even though it is possible to go to the difficult and pilgrims had to face untold Pashupathinath at any time of the year, hardships they traversed the length and the main festival is held here in February- breadth of India without let or hindrance. March (Magh-Krish) on the Sivaratri day. These were the unofficial ambassadors that There are two main routes; one is via spun the golden thread that runs unseen Gorakhpur and the other via Muzaffarpur. through the entire multi-racial country of Pilgrims first arrive at Raksol, from where India, welding it into a single fraternity of they proceed to Kathmandu, the capital culture and tradition. of Nepal. The city is situated at the Source: Temples and Legends of Nepal. confluence of the rivers Bhagmati and Vishnumati, and is about 4500 feet above sea-level. About three miles from Kathmandu is the temple of Pashupathinath. Pilgrims first have a dip in the river Bhagmati Muktinath and then proceed to the temple. People from all over India crowd to this UKTINATH is to Vishnu worshippers shrine at all times of the year, but specially as Kailas is to the worshippers of on the day of Sivaratri. Huge melas are MSiva. This shrine, the home of then attended by lakhs of people. There Salagram, situated about 224 Kilometres are a number of Dharamashalas, where from Nepal, is accessible by Air, but to pilgrims and their relatives are those who cannot afford this luxury it is a accommodated. Even foreigners come now long and arduous journey through ice-fields, to worship and meditate in the presence past glaciers and perennial snow. Transport of the great Lord. It is said that once a takes one to Bagtung, a place about 55 pious man from Tirhut in north came Kilometres short of Muktinath. Beyond this to Nepal, during the reign of Pratap Malla. is the biting cold and bitter stinging winds His fervent worship and saintly ways of the higher altitudes guided by the attracted the attention of people around. natives, one has to proceed on foot. About He is said to have stayed on at Kantipur 2 Kilometres from the temple is a rest (Kathmandu) and worshipped at the shrine house. of Pashupathinath. King Pratap Malla visited As the determined pilgrim proceeds along him, and accepted him as Guru. This shows Daanbhauson skirting River Gandaki he that from the earliest of times this shrine starts sighting Salagrams, which make their had been drawing people from different appearance. This river Gandaki has its parts of the country and beyond. source in Damodar Kund, but as all along Architectural similarities link this place with its course one finds the Salagrams it is

254 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA considered as the Salagram temple. Here Pilgrim Centres the pilgrim finds Salagram of various sizes, shapes, colours, and identifiable features In Tripura and accordingly called Hari, Vishnu, Krishna, Ram and Narasimha. River Gandaki is also called Narayani and The situation of Tripura Salagrami. The River Narayani that flows through Muktinath has in it seven “geysers” IN the distant past there were two or hot springs, of which one is called Agni important Pilgrim Centres in the tract now Kund. It has its beginning in a mountain. known as the State of Tripura. The first In Muktinath, there are a number of shrines one was situated in southern Tripura at and temples, large and small, as also Rest Jolai Bari Pilak about 70 miles south of Houses. Muktinath is considered to be one , the present capital town, and among the fifty one Sakti Peethas. the second one was in northern Tripura at Kailasahar about 110 miles north-east from Damodar Kund Agartala. These two ancient holy places could not stand the ravages of nature and Damodar Kund lies beyond Mukti Nath at a man, and archaeological excavation has distance of 20 Km. from it, pathless except also not yet been made to trace out their for the pilgrims ahead. It is a tedious climb history, and effective steps to preserve beyond the snow line. After a trek for two them are yet to be taken. All this has given long days one sees the spring from which rise to some contradictory conjectures Damodar Kund has its origin. Its waters about their historicity. At present our are clear and sparkling. The people of Nepal knowledge about these two hitherto believe that there is a powerful Salagram mysterious shrines is very poor. somewhere within the vicinity of Damodar Kund, but due to the unreachable heights Past Reflected in Glimpses at which it is situated pilgrims -are unable to get at it. At present Jolai Bari Pilak is a fertile paddy The higher the Truth, the more profound land with houses and hamlets here and and esoteric it is. The diamond is born in there built mostly by the Bengali Hindus the womb of the earth, the pearl in the who migrated here from East (now unfathomable depths of the Ocean. How Bangla Desh) . In the past the Buddhist much less accessible should the diviner Monks and Chakmas were the dominating symbols be ? Hidden, profound, beyond people in the vast hilly area, comprising of grasp except for a few struggling, striving Arakan, hill tracts of Chittagong, southern seekers of indomitable courage who brave Tripura and Noakhali. At the south-western to lofty heights, laugh at death and disaster side of Jolai Bari Pilak, a number of shrines to reach their goal. stood roughly in a row in east-west direction. The shrines were erected not on a common basement, but on separate

255 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA hillocks. The plan, platform, structure, the locality. According to one such myth, roofing and other superstructures of the once Sambhu, the Lord of Kailas shrines are now matters for conjecture. accompanied by other gods and goddesses, The plinth and the thickness of the brick set out for Varanasi. During the period of walls which no longer remain today but were the journey when they reached the place visible even 15 years back, brave led to now called Unkoti Tirtha, the sun set and the conjecture that these were single- the tired gods halted there on condition storeyed structures containing empty that if they did not promptly resume the space within to place the idols and terra journey very early in the morning before cottas. Kneaded clay served the purpose the cock crowed they would be of cement. All that can be said with an automatically turned into stones. amount of certainty is that it was a holy Unfortunately, none but Sambhu got up in place of Tantric Buddhism. The discovery time and he alone embarked for Varanasi, of a large number of rock-cut images of leaving the co-travellers to enjoy the Lord Buddha, Durga, Kali, Ganesh, Vishnu, slumber at the risk of being turned into the Lotus feet of Lord Buddha, etc. stone images. The next morning a cock supports this opinion. This shrine probably crowed out from the nearby forest, and as dates back to the 7-8th centuries and soon as the cry entered their ear, all the might have some relation with the Khadag sleeping gods except Sambhu were dynasty discovered in an excavate in transformed into stone images. Henceforth, Bangia Desh. this ordinary place had become an important shrine. The Shrine emerges out at a Myth A Second Myth and a Third The shrine built up in northern Tripura is called Unkoti which literally means ‘one less Another story which explains its origin is than a crore. Numerous wonderful that, on the advent of Kali Yuga, greed specimens of sculpture are found scattered and avarice leave the earth and to take on either side of the meandering hill-tract, shelter in the Himalayas. They undertook up and below the basin, on the rocky walls their journey. The remaining portion of the of the hill slopes, amidst bushes, some story does not significantly differ from that hidden beneath the rich under-growth and of the above myth. others half buried in the ground. There is yet one more lore, which explains These images of (e.g. Siva, its origin in terms of human effort. Once a Durga, Vishnu, Ram, Lakshmana, Ravana, pious man decided to build here a Vrisha (ox) including some of the heroes TirthaKshetra by installing one crore idols and deities of Ramayana and Mahabharata of Hindu gods. Accordingly, he employed bear the silent testimonies of India’s past sculptors, but unfortunately he died before heritage. the completion of the task. About the origin of this Tirtha some myths are current among the common people of

256 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA The Light of Research Through the Medieval and Modern Periods Legends and myths apart, what do the experts say? According to Dr. Niharranjan During the medieval and modern periods in Ray, Unkoti is a Saiva pilgrimage centre of the history of Tripura, the Tipra Kings built, to be Pala period. The archaeological survey re-built and repaired a large number of of India remarks: “On the whole, judging temples and tanks in and outside their by the extant remains at , it may Kingdom. In the present-day Tripura, there be concluded with some certainty that the are a large number of temples which are site has been sacred to the worship of concentrated mainly at three places: Siva, at least from the 8-9th centuries, if Udaipur, Old Agartala and Agartala. Udaipur not some centuries earlier.” Prof. Jayannath which is about 33 miles towards south from Chaudhuri describes it as an achievement Agartala has been described by Prof. Dr. of the Nath Yogis. According to some local Lahiri as the town of temples and tanks. scholars, the tribal people living in the Here stand the temples dedicated to Tripura surrounding hills constructed it, while a few Sundari (Kali ); Hari, Vishnu, Durga, scholars held the opinion that during the Mahadev and Jagannath. The present Sena period of Bengal, one minor dynasty, condition of these temples is deplorable. Devas by surname, ruling over Chittagong, Most of these ancient monuments are now Noakhali, Tippera and Sylhet in the 12- “dead“, deserted and ruined. At Old 13th centuries patronised and financed it. Agartala there is the famous temple of 14 All these must be taken as hypotheses deities (Chauddha Devta). At Agartala unless and until more positive evidence is there are temples for Lakshmi Narayanan, forthcoming. Siva, Jagannath, etc. Out of all these Loneliness, rumbling of spring, deep forest, temples, only two temples, namely picturesque hills, chirping of birds, belting Tripureswari temple at Udaipur and of deer, crowing of cock, shade of banyan Chauddha Devta temple at Old Agartala, trees over the speechless images create a still attract millions of people, and these supernatural atmosphere, calm and quiet, two shrines are regarded with awe by the pleasant and fascinating. To different local Hindus of the hills and of the plains people, the Unakoti means different things. as important pilgrim centres. To the school and college students, it is a About the Tripura Sundari temple, Prof. beautiful spot for a picnic; to the Lahiri writes: “Situated on a low hillock, archaeologists, researchers and scholars the temple of Tripura Sundari at Udaipur is it is a mysterious place of historical regarded by Hindus as one of the interest; to the Tripura administrators it is Pithastanas. The temple was constructed the remnant of ancient glory of Tripura ; it by Dhanya Manikya in the year 1501-1502 is a Tirtha-Kshetra to the village folks, tribal A.D. (1423 Saka era). It underwent some and Bengali Hindus, who assemble here in repairs during the reign of Ram Manikya thousands once every year on the day of and again in the year 1857-1858) A.D. “Poush-sankranti”, and take their holy bath. (1779 Saka era).” (Lahiri, K.: “Temples of

257 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Tripura”, Amrita Bazaar Patrika, March 12, Worship with Appropriate Offerings 1973). To worship the goddess with appropriate The Temple, the Tank and the Tortoises offerings and sacrifice of a he-goat throughout the year, Brahmin priests have This temple is claimed to be one of the 51 been appointed and granted lands by the Pith as mentioned in the . The Maharajas of Tripura. About two hundred temple stands on a hillock; around the people daily visit this shrine, pay their temple there are a number of Yatrinivasas homage and get ‘asirvad’ from the ‘Mother’. (shelters for pilgrims); down the hillock But on two famous occasions Siva there is a market place particularly notable Chaturdasi and , the vast area for sweet-meat shops; beyond the temple crowded with Pilgrims. On these two sacred there is a big tank called Dhani Sagar, dates, this Pithasthan attracts millions of famous for big and old tortoises, saul and pilgrims from all comers of Tripura and from gajar fishes. The pilgrims touch them and Bangia Desh also; big fairs are held, and offer , biscuits and nuts. It is the government of Tripura takes special reported that when the hour of death draws care for the maintenance of law and order. near, the tortoises come up from water, lie From far off, backward villages infested with prostrate at the door of the temple and wild animals, the Vanavasi Hindus of various breathe their last. communities (e.g. the Tipras, Riangs, The temple faces the west; it has two Jamatias and the oatias) come here on doors: one by the western side and another foot. by the north side of the temple. It is erected The “Chauddha Devta Bari” attracts millions on a raised, square-size platform. The of pilgrims on a typical but gorgeous sanctum of the temple stands in the middle occasion called Kharchi Puja - a week-long of the platform; there is an open verandah worship held every year starting from on the four sides of the temple for Suklaashtami (8th bright moon day) in the circumambulation. The sanctum is square month of Ashar (June-July). Here 14 heads at the outside and circular inside. Four made of brass metal are worshipped by vertical pillars, outwardly circular in shape the Tipra tribal priests. The national and tapering upward, stand at the four pantheon of the Tipras mainly consists of corners of the walls. On the body of the these 14 gods. Formerly the seat of these three sides (north, east and south) of the deities was at Udaipur. wall a number of horizontal bands connect During the middle of the 18th century, the pillars. The convex roof has four Muslim attacks and invasion from Noakhali corners, which project downward and drain under the leadership of Samser Gazi, an out water. The dome above the roof upstart but ambitious young Muslim leader, consists of two big urn-like, decorative defeated and compelled the then worthless structures of unequal shape, the upper one Tipra Kings to escape northward and to being smaller than the one beneath it has shift their capital, from Udaipur to Old a metallic streamer to fly at the top. Agartala. Along with the capital, the seat

258 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA of the 14 gods was shifted. conversion, what continues in connection with the worship of the 14 deities is a sort A Temple of Tribal Gods of blending or synthesis between the tribal and orthodox Hindu rites and rituals. Human The temple faces the west and stands on sacrifice has been stopped, and some crude plain land on the east bank of a big pond; tribal practices have been omitted, while on the northern bank of the pond the palace still retaining mild practices with which was built. In the vicinity of the temple, some Vedic rites have been added, sacrifice there is a primary school, a bazaar, a of a He-goat, offering of cooked food, meat, egg, wine, recitation of myths go with the offerings of fruits, basil leaf, durbha grass, sandal and incense. Tribal priests known as Contai, Naran, Badijang and Galim who are otherwise officiate in the temple, while a Bangalee Brahmin reads out the holy book, ; the idea of installing the deities in a temple and worshipping them twice daily seems to have been borrowed from the Brahmins.

Hierarchy of Priests

In this temple an elaborate hierarchy of priests and Sevaks exist; all of them must be males. They are: monastery and a yatrinivas. At the outskirts Contai : Chief Priest; officiates at the Puja of the temple, villages have grown up. From and is in charge of over-all supervision. the architectural standpoint, there is no Naran : Assists the contai and officiates difference between the Tripureswari temple during the absence or illness of the contai. and the Chaudda Devata temple; but from Badiiang : Cooks meat and food offering. the ritualistic point of view there are Galim: Sacrifices the animal. significant differences. The former is a Brahmin: Daily reads out the holy book, temple of a single goddess (Kali) being Chandi. officiated by the Brahmins. The latter is a Tauiya : Prepares oblations for the deities. temple of 14 float crèmes being officiated Binandia : Looks after the temple, by the tribal priests. This does not, monasteries and temple property. however, mean that these two temples Mali : Sweeps the temple, washes the stand poles asunder. In fact, the reverse dishes. is true. The characteristic feature of Professor Chatterjee observes: “ The Hinduism having been throughout the ages Tipras, like the other Bodo groups had their assimilation and modification rather than tribal religion much modified by Hinduism.

259 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA But among them, and under the aegis of Sri and Jampira. the ruling house of Tripura, a good deal of The tribal priests maintain strict secrecy. their old Pre-Hindu religion and its rituals is Unless and until they disclose the tribal preserved, as a part of the State religion” names of the deities, it may be (Chatterjee, S. K. Kirata Ianakriti : p. 218; disappointing to try to collect the Calcutta; 1950). corresponding tribal names of the 14 Out of the many temples built by the kings Sanskritised names. Owing to linguistic of Tripura, Chaudda devta temple is the difference and unusual secrecy maintained only shrine, where tribal deities in bust- by the tribal priests, the Brahmin priests size have been housed and are being could not properly understand the glory of worshipped. These deities, both male and the tribal deities and the individual female, have two types of names: for the differences between them and naturally, general public they are named after some their translation is not without error. Brahmanical deities (Hara, Uma, Hari, Ma, , Kumar, Ganapathi, Vidhi, Ksha, Abdhi, Hara, Uma and Hari - in the Centre of Ganga, Sikhi, Kama and Himadri); but they Pantheon have their separate tribal names known only to the priests. Attempts have, however, Throughout the year only three deities Hara, been made to collect and expose the secret Uma and Hari are worshipped. The rest of names. the eleven are put inside a wooden box, The late Kailash Chandra Sinha gives (in and these eleven deities remain ‘asleep’ his Rajmala, pp. 24-28) the names of some there. They are ‘awakened’ and brought important deities worshipped by the Tipras out from the box in the evening of the 7th including the 14 deities. They are as bright moon day in Ashar. To awaken the follows: deities, the contai recites from memory, Motai Katar, Lampra, Sangrang, Tuima, some mythical hymns. These primitive Mailuma, Khuluma, Buracha, Bani Rao, Motai myths narrate, in the typical tribal fashion Kotarma (consort of Motai Katar) and and faith, the history and origin of the Nakehu Motai (goddess of snakes)Thani deities, birth-stories of some sacrificial Rao, Budirok, Garaiya and Kalaiya. animals and of the sword. Human sacrifice, considered by them to be the best of all An Echo in Tribal Names sacrifices, has now been stopped, and a simplified form of it in the shape of sacrifice Prof. Dr. Kartick Lahiri’s collection slightly of human images made of clay, has been differs from that of Sinha Lahiri (in his substituted. Tripurar Mandir, p.9) who notes the following names: , Lampra, Akhatra, Bikhatra, Sangrama, Thoom Nairog, Banirog, Tuibuk, Kalakshiraja, Kular Bhang Raja, Santhali Raja, Jhubukandanda Raja, Naga Raja, Kala

260 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Assam, the Peerless connected with the Brahmaputra. Sri B. K. Barua and Sri V. S. Murthy Sivsagar

Sivsagar came into prominence under the SSAM with a great and ancient Ahom rulers. The Ahom rule secured for heritage has contributed richly both Assam several centuries of good and strong Ato the evolution and enrichment of government. The most notable the civilisation of India. As the Frontier achievement of the Ahom rule was the Province of India on the north-east, Assam political unification of the country which in has a special position and importance. The course of years led to social, cultural and modern name of the province of Assam is linguistic unity. It also awakened the spirit actually of quite recent origin. In the of oneness among the Assamese. ancient records it was referred to under Ahoms were great builders. They set apart the names of Lauhitya and Kamarupa. a good portion of the revenue of the State Some Assamese writers hold that when for the construction of the temples, and Tibeto-Burmese invaders first migrated into most of these stand to this day as a these alluvial plains they were attracted monument to their artistic and aesthetic by the abundant natural resources and sense, as seekers of light. unlimited food supply before them. It was for this reason they say that the invaders The Negriting Temple named the country Assam, meaning peerless or unique. The temple at one time possessed vast Assam is situated in a strategic position lands and engaged a number of people in lying close to Bhutan, Tibet, China, Burma its service. It attracts a number of and Bangladesh. There lire passes through devotees from all over the State. the hills to Bhutan, Tibet, China and Burma. The temple of Negriting or Negheriting is These passes played a conspicuous role in situated in Sibsagar district near Assam shaping the cultural and economic life of Trunk Road, some 26 km. from Jorhat and Assam. Geographically, Assam is covered about 22 km. from Golaghat. Built on a by rivers like Kapili, Dhansiri, Subhansiri, hillock this temple is surrounded by tea Dikhow, Paglagia and others. The most gardens to the front and to the left. To important of them all and the one that runs the right there are wide open spaces through the heart of the State is the river extending to the Brahmaputra River. This called Brahmaputra or Sri Lauhita. It enters temple is dedicated to Lord Siva. the north-eastern corner of Assam through It traces its origin to Arya Muni. There is the Mishmi hills and turning west passes mention of the temple existing here in the through all the districts of Assam. For Puranic age worshipped by this sage. The generations, the Assamese have had their sage struck upon the idea of making this fields watered with its blessed waters, their place a second Kasi, and collected a number whole history and culture being intimately of Lingas for the purpose, and they now

261 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA lie buried in a place called Sivatal. Parasuram Kund The deity of the temple was discovered by Raja Pratap Singh who enshrined it, but On the north-eastern frontiers of Assam, the flood waters of the Brahmaputra at its foot-hill, stands a lake which is called damaged it. Therefore, Raja Rajeswar Singh Parasuram Kund. Sage Parasurama is said built the present temple on the top of a to have performed penance here. It is said hill. The Ahom rulers called Lord Siva Bar that he struck the rock and caused this Bopai (the great father) and paid great stream to flow out. This rivulet later on reverence to the deity. It is said that the comes down as Brahmaputra. It is called King used to take his meal only after Brahmaputra, because it originates from receiving the prasad from this temple. This Brahma Kund. Originally, it streamed out of Siva temple is an attractive structure. The the Brahma Kund and fell into Lohit Sarovar. sanctum has a Baba Linga. There are a From here he brought it down, and the number of niches on the surrounding wall spot where this stream touched the ground that house exquisite sculptures of Gods is called Parasuram Kund. and Goddesses. The temple is surrounded -Adapted from Temples and Legends on sides by subsidiary shrines dedicated of Assam. to Lord Ganesha, Surya, Durga, Vishnu. Every shrine has a separate portico attached to it.

The Siv Dol BISHNU DOL The Siv Dol is situated on the banks of the Sivsagar tank. It stands on a four-acre ground. The temple belongs to the dvaikuta consisting of two; a garbagriha and a mantap by replicas called Ura Manjari. There are two more temples, one dedicated to Vishnu and the other to the Devi.

The Devi Dol

The Devi Dol resembles the Siv Dol at Sivsagar. In this temple a tier of gold-plated towers is placed on a solid circular base made of bricks. On the walls of the temple are a number of sculptured panels. In between the panels are niches for images. This place gets crowded with devotees during Sivaratri.

262 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA The Ramakrishna making bout a feature of her past history only it is a recurring phenomenon in her Leelasthanas national life, down to this living present. as Pilgrim Centres of The numerous new centres of pilgrimage and spiritual culture that have developed Modern India in the land in recent times bear testimony SWAMI BODHASWARUPANANDA to it. Of these new-born pilgrim centres, the few that derive their holiness from the life and activities of Sri Ramakrishna, the Introduction prophet of Modern India, form the subject- matter of this article. The places sketched o speak of the Pilgrim Centres of India here are: the Holy , the Kali is to speak of India herself in her Temple of , and the entirety; for as Swami Vivekananda T - the first mentioned being the birth-place put it, “ If there is any land on this earth of ‘the phenomenon’, Sri Ramakrishna; the that can claim to be the blessed second being the field of his spiritual sports; Punyabhumi, the land to which souls on and the last mentioned being his legacy to this earth must come to account for Karma, posterity. These Ramakrishna Leelasthanas the land to which every soul that is or venues of the divine sports of wending its way Godward must come to Ramakrishna, are perhaps the most attain its last home .... it is India”. It is important ones among the new resorts of common knowledge that places associated spiritual culture in Modern India; for, the with the lives and activities of saints and personality which imparted holiness to them Godmen become places of pilgrimage and is one “who was the consummation of two spiritual culture. And, which country on thousand years of the spiritual life of three earth has been as prolific as India, all hundred million people” and whose soul through history, in producing saints and “animates modern India” to quote the words Godmen all over her land? Aye, this is her of his French biographer Romain Rolland. peculiar mission, her raison d’etre : “To conserve, to preserve, to accumulate, as THE HOLY KAMARPUKUR it were, into a dynamo, all the spiritual energy .... to pour forth in a deluge on the A bare 137 years ago a native pilgrim of world whenever circumstances are Bengal, walking along the road to Puri from propitious”. So it is that right from the Burdwan and reaching the wayside rest- last bit of rock off Kanyakumari in the south house at the village of Kamarpukur in the to the lofty mountains beyond Kashmir in Arambagh Sub-division of , the north, from Dwaraka in the west to would have left the place after a little rest, Dimapur in the east, there is not a bit of without in any way tempted to get into land in this country that had not been made the interior of that village. Today, not to a Tirtha either by the birth or by the works speak of the natives, numerous pilgrims of some Saint or Godman. Nor is this Tirtha- from all parts of the world eagerly look

263 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA forward to that day when they could pay most popular route, besides which there a visit to that village, and feel blessed by are two other not-so-short approaches to partaking of the spiritual atmosphere there; Kamarpukur from Howrah. They are (1) from for, since the birth of Bhagavan Sri Howrah to Burdwan by electric train (60 Ramakrishna there on February 18, 1836, miles) and thence to Kamarpukur by bus it has become the holiest of the holy places (30 miles), and (2) from Howrah to of pilgrimage! So continuous is the stream Vishnupur by train (l15 miles) and thence of pilgrims that pours into this village, that to Kamarpukur by bus (28 miles). it has had to put up a number of modern The natural beauty and idyllic calm that buildings in its still ancient-looking environs, pervade this village defy verbal description. to accommodate it all. Thus the village now Surrounded by extensive, lush green paddy wear the look of a motley assembly of fields, in the autumn it looks like an island mansions and mud-huts, providing shelter floating in a vegetable sea; and in the to the myriad men and women devotees winter, when the paddy fields are dry, with who frequent the place from all over the the dot of the red earth covering the world. eroded landscape, it wears the look of an Kamarpukur is in fact a cluster of three oasis in a semi-desert. Agriculture is the hamlets existing in the shape of a triangle main occupation of the villagers, but at the junction of the districts of Hooghly, cottage industries such as the manufacture Bankura and Midnapur. One who has of cotton cloth by handloom, hookah pipes become familiar with the supernormal of ebony, sweetmeats, etc. also thrives incidents in the biography of Sri as means of livelihood. The villagers are a Ramakrishna wonders whether there is any generally religious folk of a peace-loving spiritual significance in that physical shape nature. Worshippers of different Gods and of the Master’s birthplace; for he may Goddesses and men of several communities remember Ramakrishna’s vision of the Divine live here in perfect harmony and peace. Creatrix (Brahmayoni) as a luminous Numerous religious festivals, such as the triangle giving birth to innumerable worlds worship of goddess Manasa and of Siva in every moment. Could it not be construed the month of Chaitra (March-April), and of that through this physical semblance of Hari in Vaisakh or Jaishtha, the the Divine Source, Kamarpukur perhaps in Aswin and the Janmotsava of Bhagavan proclaims, in a special sense, its identity Sri Ramakrishna in Falgun (February- as the Motherland of the Master? March), etc. are conducted with great Situated at a distance some sixty miles to éclat and devotional fervour. Of these the north-west of Calcutta, this pilgrim festivals, the last mentioned viz. the centre is approachable either by road all Janmotsava or Birthday Celebration of through, or partly by rail, and partly by Bhagavan Sri Ramakrishna, of course, road transport. From Howrah Station one occupies the pride of place now. can travel up to Tarakeshwar (30 miles) by electric train and thence to Kamarpukur (28 miles) by bus. This is the shortest and

264 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Places of pilgrim interest in Kamarpukur installed on May 11, 1951 and since then, has been and is, being worshipped daily. (1) Sri Ramakrishna Temple: The temple faces the southern direction, and has a Natmandir built in front of it for The centre of pilgrim interest and the devotees to sit and conduct Bhajans, veneration in Kamarpukur is the birth-place etc. during the worship. of Sri Ramakrishna. On the exact spot of his birth now stands a beautiful stone (2) The Temple of Sri Ramakrishna’s temple enshrining a marble statue of that family deity: To the right of the Sri modern Incarnation of God. At the time of Ramakrishna Temple a few yards’ away Sri Ramakrishna’s birth there was only a stands a smaller temple facing the east, shed here for the husking machine and an dedicated to Sri Raghuvir (Sri Rama), the open fire-place for boiling the paddy. The family deity of Sri Ramakrishna. This too likeness of these things, viz. the husking was a mud-hut previously. The location and machine, the fire-place, and a lamp dimensions of the present structure are suggestive of the environment of his birth, exactly the same as those of the original can be seen carved on the wall of the mud-hut. Besides the salagrama (round altar in the new temple. stone emblem) of Raghuvir, an earthen jar Swami Saradananda, a direct disciple and representing goddess Sita, a Rameswara the biographer of Sri Ramakrishna, records Siva-linga, an image of a Gopala, and a an interesting incident that occurred Salagrama of Narayana are kept in this immediately after the Master’s birth and shrine and worshipped every day. (The last makes the above- mentioned fire-place two deities were worshipped by the niece noteworthy. Chandra Devi, the mother of of Sri Ramakrishna, and are later additions the Master, gave birth to her Divine Son in - they were not there when Sri Ramakrishna the early hours of 1836 in the shed referred had performed worship in this temple.) How to above. Her nurse, Dhani, after attending the main deity of this temple, the Salagrama to the needs of the mother turned her of Raghuvir, which Sri Ramakrishna himself attention towards the newborn babe, and had worshipped with great devotion for found to her dismay that the child had many years after his investiture with the managed to move away into the open fire- sacred thread at the age of nine, came to place and lay there besmeared with the be installed there is told in a thrilling story ashes! Wondering at this happening and by Swami Saradananda in his monumental at the infant’s not uttering a singly cry in work, Sri Ramakrishna the Great Master spite of the ashes on its body, Dhani picked (IV Edn. 1970, Pp. 23-24): “One day he the child to find it of the size of not a (Kshudiram, the father of Sri Ramakrishna) new-born babe, but a six-months-old went to another village on business. On infant! The present stone temple was built his way back he became tired and rested in 1951 by the Ramakrishna Math authorities under a tree. The vast, lonely field and a and it is maintained by them. The marble soft, pure breeze brought repose to his image of Sri Ramakrishna in the temple was troubled mind and tired body. He felt a

265 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA strong desire to lie down, and no sooner shortcomings : Take me with you.’ Unable had he done so than he was overcome to control his feelings at the Lord’s with sleep. He then had a dream in which unexpected grace, Kshudiram burst into he saw standing before him his chosen Ideal, tears. Just then his dream came to an end. Bhagavan Sri Ramachandra, in the guise When he woke, Kshudiram wondered at the strange-ness of his dream and thought, ‘Ah! If only such good fortune would be mine!’ Then suddenly his eyes fell upon the close by, and at once he recognized it as the very place he had seen in the dream. Out of of a divine Boy, His body green like the curiosity he approached the spot, where tender blades of Durva grass. Pointing to he saw a beautiful Salagrama stone and a a particular spot, the Boy said, ‘I have snake with expanded hood guarding it. been staying here for a long time without Eager to possess the stone he hastened food and without anyone to take care of towards it. On reaching it he found that me. Take me to your house: I have a very the snake had disappeared and that the strong desire that you should serve me’. Salagrama was lying at the entrance to Kshudirarn was overcome with emotion and its hole. Seeing that the dream had come said, paying homage to the Lord again and true, his heart leaped in joy, and he felt no again :O Lord, I am without devotion and fear of the snake, convinced that he had am very poor. Service befitting you is not received God’s command. Crying out, ‘Glory possible in my hut, and I shall lose all grace to Raghuvir!’, Kshudirarn took the stone in should there be any flaw in it. So why do his hands. He carefully examined the marks you make such a difficult request to me?’ on it and, with his knowledge of the At this the Boy Ramachandra comforted Sastras, found it to be a Raghuvir Sila him and said graciously, ‘Do not be afraid; (Salagrama). Beside himself with joy and I shall not take offence at any wonder, he returned home, performed the

266 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA purificatory ceremony of the Salagrama for pilgrims. The Yogi’s Siva Temple became according to the Sastras, and installing it famous because of the strange association as the family deity, began to worship it it has with Sri Ramakrishna’s birth. Srimati daily. Even before he came upon the Chandra Devi, the Master’s mother, before Salagrama in this strange manner Kshudiram she had conceived her Divine Son, had a had been worshipping Ramachandra, his wonderful spiritual experience while chosen Deity, every day”. This incident standing in front of this temple. It is best happened before the birth of Sri expressed in her own words: “On another Ramakrishna. occasion when I was speaking with Dhani in front of the temple of the Jugis, I (3) Sri Ramakrishna’s Living Room: On suddenly saw a divine effulgence come from the northern side of the Raghuvir Temple, the holy image of the great God Siva, fill and to the northwest of the Sri Ramakrishna the temple and rush towards me in waves. Temple stands a mud-hut facing the south. Taken by surprise, I was on the point of This was the living room of Son Ramakrishna telling Dhani about it, when all of a sudden all through his stay at Kamarpukur. He the light engulfed me and swiftly entered stayed at Kamarpukur for 16 years at a into my body. Stunned by wonder and fear, stretch, from his birth; and thereafter he I fell down unconscious. Afterwards, when stayed there at intervals, from his 22nd Dhani had helped me to recover, I told her and 44th year, for about 6 years. This everything. At first she was surprised; then sacred room is now a part of his shrine she said, ‘You had an epileptic fit ‘. But I and is frequented by innumerable devotees have the feeling that the light has been in who feel purified and spiritually elevated my womb ever since, and that I am by bowing down on its floor and sitting pregnant !” (Sri Ramakrishna the Great there even for a fraction of a moment. Master by Swami Saradananda, IV Edition To the east of this living room of the Master 1970 p. 36). and at the rear of the Temple is another Passing from the road, through a gate, two- storeyed mud-house, also facing which opens into Sri Ramakrishna’s south. The ground floor of this house was homestead at its eastern side and under a in existence as part of the homestead mango tree- (This mango tree is an object during Sri Ramakrishna’s lifetime. The second of great interest and veneration to the storey was built, after his passing away, devotees of Bhagavan Sri Ramakrishna, for by his nephew Ramlal with the financial it was planted by the Master himself when help of the Holy Mother, Sri . he was a young man. How many thousands This house is now used as a store room for of its leaves have not travelled to distant the shrine. On its eastern side is the parlour lands, as far as to America, and found an where Sri Ramakrishna used to meet his honoured place on the altar of the worship- visitors. A road by the northern side of rooms of devotees! Oh! The potency of this parental homestead of Sri Ramakrishna holy association!) - one enters the Temple divides it from the now famous Yogi’s Siva precincts of Sri Ramakrishna. Standing face Temple and the recently built guest-houses to face with that spiritually vibrant and

267 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA living presence at the sacred spot of the (6) the choultry or rest-house at the Saviour’s birth, who will not melt in south-east corner of the village on the road devotion and cry out, with that American to Puri, where young Gadadhar used to devotee who wrote the travelogue A visit the itinerant monks and offer some Yankee and the Swamis (John Yale, 1961 small services to them, thus earning their Edn. George Allen & Unwin Ltd., London): friendship and affection. It is told that one “I am here, I can see this with my own day the boy Gadadhar after his visit to the eyes. I am blessed forever. I feel a wish to monks there returned home dressed in their intone a carol to the newborn saviour. It fashion, at which his mother got alarmed must needs be of my own idiom, my own lest her dear son should be taken away tradition; that is all I know”. from her by the monks. She was pacified only after the monks themselves went to (4) Other Spots Sanctified by His her and assured her there was no such Boyhood association : All this is about danger; (7) the Temple of the Goddess just the birth-place of Bhagavan Sri Visalakshi at Anur, a village situated about Ramakrishna. There are, besides, a number two miles to the north of Kamarpukur. (Sri of spots associated with his Balaleela or Ramakrishna as a boy of eight had an boyhood sport, in and around Kamarpukur, experience of divine ecstasy, while going which the pilgrims frequent with great with some of the ladies of his neighbourhood devotion. The more important ones among to worship the Goddess here. It is said them are (1) the Haldarpukur Tank (where that as Gadadhar was singing the glories Sri Ramakrishna as a boy used to play with of the deity, his body became stiff, tears his friends, splashing water) ; (2) the house flowed down his cheeks and he lost outer of the Lahas (Dharmadas Laha the owner consciousness. A lady by name Prasanna, of this house was an intimate friend of the the daughter of Dharma Das Laha, surmising Master’s father, Sri Kshudiram; and that it was all the mystic influence of the Gayavishnu, his son, was a bosom friend Goddess, chanted Her name in the ears of of young Gadadhar (Sri Ramakrishna’s boy- the boy, which brought him back to normal hood name). This house is associated with consciousness! ; (8) Jayarambati, the many holy memories of Sri Ramakrishna’ birth-place of the Holy Mother, Sri Sarada early boyhood); (3) the tol (primary school) Devi, the Divine consort and first disciple in front of the Laha’s House, where Sri of the Master: situated at the junction of Ramakrishna studied for a time from his the districts Bankura and Hooghly, this 5th year; (4) the two cremation grounds, sacred tirtha lies three mile to the west of Budhui Moral situated to the east of the Kamarpukur. Here was born on 22 December village, and Bhutir Khal to the north-west 1853 that Motherhood’s Acme’ as the of Sri Ramakrishna’s house. (Sri Ramakrishna daughter of Ramachandra Mukhopadhyaya used to resort these solitary places to and -sundari Dcvi. She married her practise contemplation); (5) Manik Raja’s Divine Husband at Jayarambati at the age mango grove, where Gadadhar with his of six, and later shared his task of spreading friends used to play and enact dramas etc; the Divine Message in earth at his

268 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Sahadharmacharini in the real sense of the (c. 1864-65), the practice of Islam (c. term! In loving memory of that Grace which 1868), the practice of Christianity (c. 1872), descended on earth at that point, her and culminated in the worship of the devotees have raised a magnificent temple Shodasi in the person of Sri Sarada Devi, to her. It was completed in 1923 on the his divine consort (1872). It was here in Akshaya-tritiya day, and the foundation the Kali temple again, that through coming day has been celebrated there ever since in contact with the great leaders of thought with special Puja and Homa, and devotees and prominent men of the time, he gave in large numbers gather and pay their out his divine call of spiritual resurgence homage then to this Universal Mother. A and harmony of religions. Thus, if Bhagavan pilgrimage to Kamarpukur is not considered Sri Ramakrishna was the Avatara Varishtha, complete without a visit to this sacred (Divine Incarnation par excellence) as birth-place of the Holy Mother and the Vivekananda called him, the Bhavatarini several spots associated with her life there. Temple at Dakshineswar is the Abode par- For want of space we shall not elaborate excellence of his spiritual presence ! on the e spots here. Situated four miles above Calcutta on the Speaking of his Master, Swami Vivekananda eastern bank of the Bhagirathi, this temple, had observed: “He (Sri Ramakrishna) had like the Saviour who sanctified it, had a lived in one life the whole cycle of the supernormal origin. A wealthy woman by national religious existence in India”. And name Rani Rasmani wanted to visit Varanasi it will not be incorrect if we call the Kali as an act of devotion, and she made Temple at Dakshineswar the stage on which elaborate, arrangements for the journey, the major part of that re-enacting of the when on the night before her departure spiritual history took place, for since his she had a dream in which Kali, her chosen nineteenth year, except for a few short Ideal, commanded her to build a temple trips to his native village and a pilgrimage for Her on the Ganges and arrange for Her to Benaras and Brindavan, he had daily worship there, instead of going to practically lived there all through his life in Kasi for the Lord’s Darshan. On this being flesh. It was at the precincts of this temple done, She promised, she would manifest that he experimented on the full spectrum Herself there and receive the offerings of of spiritual life. Beginning with an unaided devotees. Overjoyed at this shower of yet all-consuming quest for God around the abundant Grace from the Deity, the Rani year 1856, his spiritual experiment moved who was a great devotee, cancelled her through the sixty-four trip to Kasi, and started the construction under the guidance of his woman Guru, of a magnificent temple for the Mother of Bhairavi Brahmani (c. 1861-1864), the five the Universe, on a plot of land measuring Vaishnava modes of worship such as the 20 acres, purchased from one Mr. Hastie Santa, Dasya, Sakhya, Vatsalya, and on the eastern bank of the Ganges at Madhura Bhavas, under the Vaishnava Dakshineswar. It took her eight years to ascetic, Jatadhari (c. 1864), the Advaita complete the construction. Little did she Sadhana under the tutelage of Totapuri know then that, through that act, the

269 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA unseen hand of a benevolent Destiny was portico are spots of great spiritual leading her not only to her spiritual association. It was at this bathing ghat fulfilment but also to immortal fame as the that Destiny ordained Totapuri, the great provider for the Spiritual Resurgence that Advaita teacher, to land, and it was at was to follow in the history of man! The this portico that he first met Sri Ramakrishna Providence that prompted the construction for whose initiation into Vedanta Sadhana of the temple seems to have also decreed he was brought to Dakshineswar. It is that, in keeping with the spirit of the recorded that Totapuri saw Sri Ramakrishna Prophet whose abode it was to become, it seated in an abstract mood in the portico. should be, in the very structure, a meeting As he looked at the young man’s face it ground of diverse faiths; for, on a land that impressed him as that of an advanced was partly an old Muslim graveyard, and seeker of Truth, and so he volunteered to purchased from a Christian, it stands initiate him in Advaita Sadhana. Sri enshrining the deities of all the three major Ramakrishna accepted the offer only after sects of Hinduism - Sakta, Saiva, and consulting his Divine Mother in the Temple Vaishnava! To that stage, so set in advance and gaining Her consent, and Her assurance by Nature, came Sri Ramakrishna, in 1855 that the stranger was the teacher brought when he was nineteen years old, to play by Her specifically for teaching him Advaita. the role of a Prophet of Harmony and Totapuri on his part did not attach any Peace! And, accomplishing that task he importance to that assurance of the Mother left to a holy Tirtha, in October 1885 when - until, we suppose, he actually saw ‘ Her he shifted to Shyampukur, in the first Child’ ascend the height of Advaitic instance, and thence to the Garden House realisation, Nirvikalpa Samadhi, at an at Cossipore to close the show and to unbelievably short period. What he himself finally draw the curtain on his earthly could achieve only after forty years of hard performance! Sadhana, Sri Ramakrishna achieved in a single day! But for the Divine Will, could it The Shrines and the Sacred Spots in the be thus accomplished? Temple Garden On the opposite side of the portico, in the middle of the courtyard stands the temple The Shrines of Sakti (Bhavatarini), Siva of the Divine Mother, Bhavatarini - a large and Sri Krishna (Radhakanta) are laid in a building facing south, with nine domes and rectangle surrounding a tile-paved spires. The Divine Mother’s image in it is courtyard. On the western side of the made of black basalt, about three feet in rectangle, bordering the Ganges, are twelve height. On a thousand-petalled silver lotus Shrines dedicated to Siva, broken into two lies the prostrate body of Siva in white groups of six each by an open portico, marble, and on Siva’s breast stands the which forms the main entrance to the Mother facing south. In front of Her is a temple court for the visitors coming by boat Natmandir, a spacious rectangular hall, along the river and landing at the bathing whose terrace is supported by stately ghat there. This bathing ghat and this columns.

270 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA As one stands in front of that Shrine, gazing image was discussed, and the Pundits who at that gleeful girlish form of the Goddess, were consulted on the issue gave their memories of Her many sports with Sri opinion in favour of discarding the broken Ramakrishna crowd before the mind’s eye. image and installing a new one in its place. When once weary of the life without Her When Sri Ramakrishna heard this ruling of vision, Ramakrishna resolved to cut his the Pundits he ridiculed that decision and throat and snatched the sword that hung opined that the correct solution was to on the wall of the shrine, she shot Herself repair the broken leg and continue the out of that stone image and showed him worship in the same image. Her living Presence. She stood before Her He asked, “If the son-in-law of the Rani beloved son smiling, talking, consoling. Yet fractured his leg, would she discard him when not content with that ocular proof, and put another in his stead? Certainly not. that importunate Son stretched his hand Why, then, a different rule here?” The cold towards Her nose, She breathed into that reasoning of the scholars could not stand hand to give him a tactile proof of Her against this reasoning of the heart. The living presence also. Much to his hearing, Rani herself was supremely pleased with she walked jingling her anklets; She ate this very human solution and felt grateful from his hand; She slept in his bed; She to its propounder. And Sri Ramakrishna brought him his Gurus; She brought him himself repaired the injury to the image, his disciples ; She brought him his suppliers with his inborn talent for moulding images of material needs; She brought him the of gods, and took up its worship thereafter torchbearers of his spiritual Message to at the importunate requests of the Rani the world ! Ah! the lingering spiritual and her son-in-law. vibrations that inebriate the visitor to that The Kali Temple, the Natmandir to its front, temple ! and the Radhakanta Temple are all enclosed To the north of the Kali Temple is another on the north, east and south sides by blocks large temple facing west, dedicated to of rooms opening on to columnades. These Radhakanta (Radha and Krishna). Sri are used as staff-rooms, guest-rooms, Ramakrishna, prior to his becoming the kitchens etc. of Kali in the main temple, was The rooms at the northwest corner of the employed as Pujari in this temple. There courtyard overlooking the Ganges is the was an interesting incident which led to most sacred spot in the whole temple his appointment there. One day, while the garden, for this is the room where Sri image of Sri Krishna was being taken to Ramakrishna lived. Even today His Holy the retiring room, the then priest of the Presence permeates the atmosphere here temple, Kshetra nath, slipped on the marble like a lingering fragrance, and the devout floor and fell down. As a result, the leg of pilgrims breathe it in, as they enter the the image was broken. This created a great room! The room is open to the courtyard commotion, and the priest was dismissed colonnade on the one side and to a river- from service for his carelessness. The front semi-circular porch on the other. It question of worshipping the Lord in a broken was through the porch entrance to the

271 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA room that Narendra Nath who later became the early 1880s. Still of boyish beauty Swami Vivekananda, had entered the although nearly fifty, he lounged there on Master’s room on his first visit to the place! the couch, joking, telling funny stories, On the north side of the room is another giving out his message, going in and out verandah, facing a small circular two- at Samadhi. . . . All kinds of people came storeyed building, a few yards away in the to Sri Ramakrishna: members of super- garden. (This building is the Nahabat, orthodox brahmin subcastes - the roost where the most revered Holy Mother Sri exclusive aristocracies on earth; the Sarada Devi lived). Inside the Master’s progressives who had taken on Western room, except for a recent tile-paving of ideas and perhaps even affected a the floor, every-thing is preserved as it preference for speaking English; was during Sri Ramakrishna’s stay. In the businessmen, pundits, Sadhus, poor old south- west portion of the room are two widows, pure youngsters barely in their wooden cots with mattresses. Sri teens; Christians, Moslems, Buddhists, Ramakrishna used to sleep on the bigger Jains, Sikhs, money- lenders, prostitutes, cot and sit on the smaller one during the drunkards. All found something different in day time. the Master, and each discovered there It was in this room, and sitting on this some attractive personification of the Divine couch that he talked to his visitors and that elevated his mind ! “And, he asks in taught his disciples! It was here he gave wonder,” who are you, Ramakrishna? How out his Gospel which that immortal could you appear to one individual after chronicler, , another like this, forever different and assiduously preserved and presented to the forever his own preferred Ideal” Indeed, world as Sri Ramakrishna Kathamrita in five who was Ramakrishna! Who can say? volumes (This Gospel has been translated The Nahabat where the Holy Mother had into English and published under the title lived stands in the northwest corner of the The Gospel of Sri Ramakrishna, by the temple courtyard and is now a shrine Ramakrishna Math, Madras). The walls of dedicated to her. A little away to the north the room are decorated with pictures of of the Nahabat is a small bathing ghat gods and goddesses. On the bedsteads are known as the Bakultala ghat. This was the kept two pictures of Sri Ramakrishna and ghat which the Holy Mother used for her these are worshipped daily. Streams of daily ablutions. It was by way of this ghat pilgrims pass through the room prostrating again that the Bhairavi Brahmani, the before the beds. Master’s Tantric teacher, first entered the A western devotee who made a pilgrimage temple garden. Farther north on the river to the room writes, “As I sat there that side is the Panchavati, and the large first day, thrilled with having actually banyan tree. It was under this banyan tree reached this place whose every inch I that Sri Ramakrishna had practised already know from the Master’s Gospel, I meditation himself and taught it to his thought of how it must have been in the intimate disciples! It was here that the crescendo years of Ramakrishna’s life in great Totapuri had taught him the Advaita

272 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Sadhana and helped him attain the acme THE BELUR MATH of spiritual realisation, the Nirvikalpa Samadhi! Thus it is a spot of specially On the western bank of the Ganges, almost hallowed associations to the pilgrims. Then directly across the river to the Cossipore there is the bel tree in the northern burning ghat, is the Belur Math, the extremity of the temple garden where stood Headquarters of the Order bearing the the Panchamundi Asana, a special seat that Master’s name. Sri Ramakrishna’s Tantric teacher Bhairavi The was founded by the had prepared for his Sadhanas in the Master himself during his last days at Tantras ! Cossipore. In fact, his throat-ailment and About three miles to the south of his shifting to Cossipore were Destiny’s Dakshineswar, on the Baranagore Calcutta devices to fulfil that divine purpose, for he road is the famous Cossipore Garden-house, had already prophesied : “The devotees a two-storeyed building with three rooms will be sifted into inner and outer circles below and two above. On 11th December, towards the end”. At Cossipore he actually 1885, Sri Ramakrishna shifted to this did this sifting and initiated the all- house, and completing the work that he renouncing young disciples into Sanyasa had commenced at Dakshineswar, viz. by giving them the ochre robes and setting in motion a spiritual renaissance beads and by sending them to and organising a band of monks and beg their food by Madhukari (the gathering devotees to carry his Message to countries of one’s food in small quantities from several far and near, cast off his physical vesture houses - a custom with the Hindu monks). on the 16th of August, 1886! At 6 p.m. on He also commissioned his chief apostle, that day, his sacred body was brought Narendra Nath (later Swami Vivekananda) down to the Cossipore burning ghat where to be their leader and to look after them. it was consigned to holy fire. The Cossipore “I leave them in your care. See that they Garden House is preserved as a sacred practise spiritual exercises and do not monument, and the room upstairs where return home”, he had told Narendra. Thus, he lived and passed away is now a shrine on the passing away of the Master, the where regular worship is done. It is responsibility of looking after the maintained by the Ramakrishna Math. Every Brotherhood’s welfare and organising it to year, on the 1st of January, there is further the cause of the Master fell celebrated the Kalpataru Utsava squarely on the shoulders of Swami commemorating that blessed day in 1886, Vivekananda ; and this big responsibility when the Master had blessed everybody filled him with great care and anxiety, till who went to him that afternoon with at last he succeeded in establishing a spiritual awakening. Lakhs of devotees permanent home for the Brothers - the gather there during the day of the Belur Math, - and founding there the twin celebration and feel blessed by paying their organisations the Ramakrishna Math and obeisance to the Master and by partaking Mission, to propagate the Master’s of the consecrated food. Message. In a letter written to a friend in

273 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA 1890 the Swami pours out his heart’s memorial - the Belur Math for his Master anxiety at not having succeeded till then and enshrining in it on December 9, 1898 in establishing that memorial to his Master: his sacred remains. We have a vivid pen “I have already told you at the outset that picture of that momentous ceremony of I am Ramakrishna’s slave having laid my installation at the Belur Math in the body at his feet ‘with Til and Tulasi leaves’, Swamiji’s Message to a Disciple: I cannot disregard his behest .. Now his behest to me was that I should devote myself to the service of the Order of all- renouncing devotees founded by him, and in this I have to persevere, come what may, being ready to take heaven, hell, salvation, or anything that may happen to me .... For various reasons, the body of Bhagavan Sri Ramakrishna had to be consigned to fire. There is no doubt that this act was very blamable. The remains of his ashes are now preserved and if they be properly enshrined somewhere on the bank of the Ganga, I presume we shall be able in some measure to expiate the sin lying on our heads. These sacred remains, his seat, and his picture are every day worshipped in our Math in proper form .... What greater regret “In the morning Swamiji (Swami can there be than this that no memorial Vivekananda) had his bath in the Ganga could yet be raised in this land of Bengal and entered the worship-room. Then he .... ?” And at last, after 12 anxious years made offerings to the consecrated Paduka of waiting he succeeded in raising a fitting of Sri Ramakrishna and fell to meditation”.

274 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA “ Meditation and worship over, preparations hundred feet along the Ganges. As one were now made for going to the new Math approaches it by boat from Dakshineswar premises. Swamiji himself took on his right side, one sees to his right six striking shoulder the ashes of Sri Ramakrishna’s buildings standing out prominently on its body preserved in a copper casket, and ground. They are the main monastery, the led the van .... On his way Swamiji said to Ramakrishna temple, the Brahmananda the disciple: temple, the Holy Mother temple, the “Sri Ramakrishna said to me, ‘Wherever you Vivekananda temple, and the old guest will take me on your shoulders, there will house. go and stay, be it under a tree or in a hut’. The building towards the northern end of It is therefore that I am myself carrying the compound, facing the bathing ghat him on my shoulders to the new Math there, is the main monastery. It is a two- grounds. Know it for certain that Sri storeyed building. The room at the southern Ramakrishna will keep his seat fixed there, side on the first floor of the building was for the welfare of the many for a long time the room in which Swami Vivekananda had to come”. (Pp. 96. 1964 Edn.) On reaching lived and passed away! It is preserved as the Math, Swamiji installed the sacred relics a sacred memorial to him, with all the in the shrine there and performed the furniture and other articles in it kept in worship by lighting the sacrificial fire. He their position as on the day of his also cooked Payasa with his own hands Mahasamadhi (July 4, 1902). One can see and offered it to the Master. He then said there the big iron cot and the mattress on to the disciples, “Through the will of Sri which Swamiji used to sleep, the small Ramakrishna, his Dharmakshetra- sanctified camp cot by its side on which his body spot - has been established today. A twelve was laid in state, the sandals he had used, years anxiety is off my head. Do you know the turban he had worn, the sticks he had what I am thinking of at this moment? This used as a wandering monk, the Tanpura Math will be a centre of learning and on which he had played etc. Thousands of spiritual discipline. Householders of virtuous devotees file past this room through the turn like yourselves will build houses on year paying their homage to these sacred the surrounding land and live there, and relics of the chief apostle of Sri Sannyasins, men of renunciation, will live Ramakrishna. in the centre, while on that plot of the About three hundred feet to the south of land on the south of the Math, buildings this building stands the temple dedicated will be erected for English and American to Swami Brahmananda, the spiritual son disciples to live in.” This is the genesis of of Sri Ramakrishna and the first president the Belur Math, the Headquarters of the of the Ramakrishna Math. This temple faces world-wide Ramakrishna Math and Mission west. institutions - Sri Ramakrishna’s legacy to Between the main monastery and the posterity! Brahmananda temple could be seen the The Belur Math stands on a vast area main temple of Sri Ramakrishna rising long extending more than a thousand and five and high behind. It is a remarkable structure

275 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA from the point of beauty and grandeur. It of Shiva, is topped by a huge lotus, also was Swami Vivekananda who conceived its white, in full bloom, all designed by the unique architectural design and prepared famous Indian artist Nandalal Bose. The its plan in 1897 with the assistance of his sanctum is roomy, airy and well-lighted, brother-disciple Swami Vijnanananda. But and except for the canopy over the image for want of funds its construction had to and the tapestry behind to make the image wait for nearly four decades. It was, at stand out from the white surroundings, it long last, constructed and dedicated on is practically devoid of any decoration, January 14, 1938 by Swami Vijnanananda. adding thus to the atmosphere of serenity There is a vivid description of this temple and austerity befitting the ideal of total in the History of the Ramakrishna Math renunciation that Shri Ramakrishna, and Mission by Swami (I embodied. And yet, 1I2t feet in height, Edn. 1957 Pp. 348-349) which is the temple has about it a modern air of reproduced here: “The temple, facing spaciousness that stands in striking south, is constructed in pinkish white contrast with the usual stuffiness of its Chunar stone. The sanctum has a shallow traditional prototype. It is surmounted by dome 60 feet up, and is connected by a a large dome of exquisite proportions, over closed vestibule with a prayer hall. As one which are set an (Embolic enters from the south through the gate, Myrobalan) and a gold-plated pitcher of presenting a horseshoe facade in the metal enclosing a powerful light. Eight other Buddhist style, over which rises corner domes of small dimensions, but of superstructure, tier upon tier, somewhat similar design, placed in two tiers, together resembling a Gopuram of South India, with with pavilions encircling the main dome add a height of 78 feet, one finds oneself in a to the picturesqueness of the whole edifice. long nave with an inner vault and balconies Around the sanctum is a passage for on three sides resting on two rows of circumambulation. Over the arches of this stately pillars that separate it from the passage can be seen the stone enclosed wings on the east and west - all representations of the nine planetary of which is reminiscent of the caves at deities, as they are found around the Karla. The windows and balconies of this shrines in Orissa temples. These, too, are hall and the arches around the sanctum after the design by Nandalal Bose. The recall the Rajput and Mogul styles of prayer hall is 152 feet long, 72 feet wide architecture; the pavilions suggest the and 48 feet high; it has also two side doors usual Hindu temple in Bengal ; and the on the east and west, and eighteen niches central dome the renaissance type of in its walls to put statuettes in. The total European architecture. The ground plan of length of the whole structure is 233 feet the prayer hall, with the vestibule and from north to south. To the east of the shrine placed one behind the other, gives temple is a lawn, beyond which is a narrow the impression of a Christian cross. The road and a line of somewhat uncommon rectangular white altar, curved in the middle trees; then another lawn up to a protective like the Damaru (hour-glass shaped drum) wall along the Ganges, which flows

276 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA southward, washing the feet of three There is a third bathing ghat in the Belur temples dedicated respectively to Swami Math grounds towards the southern end. Brahmananda, the Holy Mother and Swami Beyond this is the old guest house. Besides Vivekananda.” On the altar in the sanctum these above mentioned prominent is placed an image of Sri Ramakrishna in structures, there are a number of other Samadhi pose, executed in white Italian buildings in the campus, such as dormitories marble. This image is worshipped every day for the monastic inmates, kitchens, dining in proper form. halls, a Degree College, B. T. College, an Some two hundred feet to the south of industrial school, a post office, a free the Brahmananda temple is another bathing dispensary, a building for the Headquarters ghat, facing which stands the temple office, a training centre for the dedicated to the Holy probationers, a library, a Mother. The Holy Mother salesroom for the Mission entered into final publications, etc. There is beatitude on July 21, also a farm and a dairy!. 1920 at her Calcutta Thousands of devotees residence. Her sacred visit the Math every day. body was brought to Belur The Birthdays of Sri Math and cremated on Ramakrishna, the Holy that very spot where her Mother, Swami temple stands today. This Vivekananda, and Swami temple was consecrated Brahmananda are on December 21, 1921, celebrated on a large the birthday of the Holy scale. Besides, the Durga Mother. Ever since she is Puja, and the birthdays of worshipped there. Buddha, Christ, Sankara Farther south, yet another and such other Godmen hundred yards away is and holy personages are the Vivekananda temple, a two-storeyed also celebrated every year. Of all these building with his Samadhi in the ground floor occasions, the occasion of the birthday of and a temple of in the first floor. Swami Bhagavan Sri Ramakrishna draws the Vivekananda’s mortal remains were maximum crowd of devotees, and on that cremated at the same spot where his day the Math grounds are verily a sea of Samadhi stands today. It is said that the human heads with at least four to five lakhs spot was marked out for that purpose by of people participating! And we must know Swamiji himself! Beyond this Swamiji’s that all this is only the beginning of the temple is an enclosure with a memorial Ramakrishna Movement! What the future column marking the sacred ground, on of it will be is such as to exceed the most which were cremated a number of other extended imagination of the most farseeing direct Sannyasin disciples of Sri of persons. Ramakrishna.

277 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Tarakeswar procession of “Kavadis” comprising men and women of all ages walking barefooted is a common sight every Saturday and Sunday. The largest crowd is seen on Sundays. The pilgrims normally pour the Ganges water over Baba Taraknath on Monday mornings, HE Tarakeswar temple dedicated to and to avoid being caught in a rush some Lord Siva, 58 km. from Howrah of them do so even on Saturdays and Station, is well known throughout T Sundays. India. The number of pilgrims varies There are several service and relief camps between 1,00,000 and 1,50,000 in Shravan managed by voluntary philanthropic (July-August). Nearly 50,000 pilgrims organisations who serve the pilgrims with assemble here to worship at this temple food and shelter. The main camps are run on Sivaratri day. Another occasion for by Kasi Viswanath Seva Samiti with the pilgrim congregation is at the time of Gajan biggest camp at Hamragachi ; it caters to Mela in the month of April. This mela lasts enormous numbers of pilgrims on the for five days. occasion of the Mela. The other Pilgrims usually go by train or bus from organisations are Maheswari Seva Samiti, Howrah to Tarakeswar via Shevadaphuli. Nand Kuti, Ram Kuti, the Gota Devi Most of the pilgrims make a halt at Chowdhury Seva Camp and many others. Lokenath temple and pour the Ganges A popular legend says that, once upon a water first at the feet of Lokenath, who is time a King called Bharamall lived at believed to be the elder brother of Siva of Ramnagar, about 5 km. from the present Tarakeswar. It is also said that Lokenath shrine. It is said that the king had a strange here resides as a Yogi and as such the dream, in which Baba Taraknath himself offerings made here are very meagre. The appeared and told him to build a temple. It temple compound is littered with broken is said that the king endowed his entire fragments of the earthen pitchers. wealth on the temple and himself became The traditional form of worship is to pour a sannyasin there. Another sannyasin of Ganges water over the beads of Baba the name Mayagiri Dhumprapangiri Taraknath. At first the pilgrims assemble assembled his disciples here during the at Shevadphuli, 35 km, from Tarakeswar, month of Chaitra. To commemorate the where at Baidyanath Batimnai Nirath Ghat event of the building of the temple a five- they bathe and fill two earthen pitchers day Bajan Mela is held here every year, with the waters of the Ganga. They then the most outstanding feature of which is suspend the pitchers from the ends of a that the pilgrim has to live like a mendicant bamboo pole which is held across their and beg for food for the entire duration of shoulders, and carried. This is called the his stay there. “Kavadi”. The condition is that the pitchers What attracts so many pilgrims to this must not touch the ground throughout the shrine is the popular belief that sincere journey, which is made barefooted. This worship of Baba Taraknath fulfils the wishes

278 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA of the devotee. Many stories are told about underneath the ground; and the ear-rings miraculous cure effected by Baba fell at Benares, which is Visalakshi. Who Taraknath, The blind have been able to can understand the crowding of see, the deaf have heard, the crippled have associations into these few sentences actually been put in a position to cross except the Hindus?” mountains. Thus the miracles are passed In this temple, she appears in Her most by word of mouth from one person to grotesque form. Decked in a crimson another, and an abiding stream of faithful garment with Her unkempt hair streaming devotees keeps flowing at all times to this waist-length, adorned with a garland of temple. skulls, - she stands and teeming crowds -Adapted from Illustrated Weekly of of Her children come to see Her thus! How 20th July 1973. could man be drawn by this gruesome figure? Sister Nivedita gives the following Kalighat answer: “I have been hearing of Kali worship all my life in terms not flattering to Kali or Her worshippers; and now that I am in KALI - the terrible one, Kali - the tongue contact with the thing itself, I have a right of flame, Kali - the face seen in a fire. Kali to stand up and say that if the things I surrounded by forms of death and heard as a child were true, at least they destruction, the name by the utterance of were not the whole truth and it is the whole which the soul hushes itself. She who is truth that we should insist on having, and dignified by the glorious name “Mother”. secondly, I have the right as an English She is the Divine and Energy, that fills woman to express public regret for the part almost as many as it brings to birth, that which my countrymen and women have fosters strangely by the terrible process played in vilifying a religious idea clear to of destruction of the unfit. men and women, as good as they, and to “Calcutta” is generally derived from utter a public hope that such vilification Kalighat, where there is a shrine dedicated may soon end by the growth amongst us to Goddess Kali. It is also called Kalipeetha all of sheer good will and sympathy. And and thereby hangs a tale, which is a last of all, I have the right of all first fragment of a page torn out of the impressions to be heard. We often forget biography of Sati - the perfect wife. In life what produces this is just as real as part Sati, the perfect wife immolated herself at of the whole as the last. This is true of all the dishonour to Her Lord and Master Siva. goodness and beauty of anything so In this story of Sati, who can miss the complex and extended; as an area of significance of the 52 places in which religious consciousness it is still more true. fragment of the smitten body fell? And four A religious idea ought to be judged by all fingers of the right foot fell at Kalighat and the states, which it produces. We must the tongue fell at Kangra (Jwala Mukhi) in not ignore either the lowest or the highest the North Punjab, where it consummated apprehension of the symbol. A common itself as licking tongues of fire from acknowledgment of that symbol binds the

279 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA man, who now appreciates it in a very Navadvip rudimentary way, to the Yogi who finds in BHAKTI PRAJNAN YATI MAHARAJ it the higher manifestation of God, so that we should be careful how we meddle with or pass judgment on, that lower form of HE scriptures of the Bhakti school worship, save to open out to it the natural assert that according to the desire path of development by which the saint of a devotee God appears before him has gone to his far-reaching vision.” T n any form. Regarding this as the pivot of She is seen standing on an inert form which their teaching, the Acharyas of the Bengal symbolizes the soul inert and unmanifest school of Vaishnavism accepted and and Nature the great awakener. To her established Sri as the fullest children she is ‘Ma’, simply clamouring after manifestation of the Supreme Lord. their childhood needs. Then she protects Although manifested in His fullest state in those who take refuge in Her. She says to holy Brindavan, God yet felt a sense of them, “My little child - you need not know incompleteness without entering the secret much in order to please me, only love me recesses of Bhakti to take measure of the dearly”. If in all that happen near and about extent of Bliss enjoyed by Sri Radha through her there is anything that is terrible, she her realisation of God in His most intimate seals their eyes that they do not perceive state. So when he appeared as Sri it; they find in her - as is the case with all Chaitanya (Radha), he completely covered emblem only what their own life and up his divinity and fulfilled His desire of experience leads them to understand. experiencing the delights of devotion as a To the grown man she is ‘Ma’ alter his need, true devotee himself. The Vaishnava - ‘Ma’ who does not protect but makes Acharyas of the Bengal school have placed strong to overcome, who demands the very in our hands this master key, which would best that we can give and will be content unlock the mystery of the incarnation of with nothing else. He shall see the moment Sri Chaitanya Maha Prabhu and his “Divya of destruction of the universe as the Charitamrutam”. moment of realisation. Life will be a song In this incarnation assumed for the specific of ecstasy and thanksgiving that the last- purpose of spreading Bhakti, it was not sacrifice ( of the animal in us) has been the discus, the conch or the mace or any demanded from us. such weapon that was used, but it was -Adapted from Vol. 11, The Complete the “weapon” of tears (tears of separation Works of Sister Nivedita, or Viraha ) that served the Lord’s purpose Immortal India Vol. and was employed in worship. The idea of God himself functioning as the ideal devotee, combining divine bliss with the bliss of the Jiva and merging the soul in the Over-Soul playing the role of the devotee and thus reaching novel heights of realisation, revealed for the first time in 280 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA the pure vision of the Acharyas of the Lakshmana Sen, Nadia was the capital of Gaudiya school, is a special feature of the Bengal. Vaishnava religion of Bengal. All ancient biographers of Sri Chaitanya Sri is the holiest place in Bengal, Mahaprabhu mention his birth-place as being the birth-place of Sri Chaitanya Maha merely “ Navadvipa” but the later writer Prabhu. It is the centre of Sri Navadvip Narahari describes it in great Mandala, 32 miles in circumference and on detail in his “Navadvipa Parikram” and the eastern bank of the Ganges, hardly 70 “Bhakti Ratnakar”. He has included a large miles north of Calcutta. One who goes from area of Navadvip than that which seems Sealdah, should get down at Krishna Nagar to have been incorporated during the time Railway Station and thence by a light train of the Sena Kings and of Sri Chaitanyas. to Navadvip-ghat which is a distance of For instance, Vrindha-vanadas excludes 13 miles. It can also be reached by Howrah- Kulia from Navadvipa between which two Katwa line by getting down at places the Bhagirathi flowed (C. Bh. Anta. Navadvipdham station. There is a fine III: 380). But Narahari Chakraborty brings motorable road direct from Calcutta to Sri it within the jurisdiction of Navadvipa Mayapur via Krishnanagar. Also there is a (Bhakti Ratnakar, 12, Taranga). With a view regular bus service from Krishnanagar to to giving an esoteric interpretation to Mayapur. The present town of Navadvip Navadvip, he describes it as the town of has come to its importance since about the nine islands, by way of comparison with two or three centuries, as the old town at a nine-petalled lotus afloat on the Sri Mayapur was altogether demolished by Bhagirathi, each of whose nine islands is the depredations of flood water over- believed to represent an aspect of ninefold running the area every year. The new town Bhakti (Navavidha Bhakti). Navadvipa was has many temples, most of which were believed to be the actual conglomeration erected with old names of the important of nine separate islands, cut up by the places of Sri Mayapur to attract pilgrims, Bhagirathi, Jalengai, Bagdevi and Vairav. who must pay fixed gate charges. Pilgrims Nowadays only the two streams of the and persons interested in Sridham Navadvip Bhagirathi and Jalengai flow, the remaining should know this history that Sri Mayapur stream having dried up. This island origin is the old site of Navadvip which is the of Navadvip as mentioned by birth place of Sri , Probodhananda Saraswathi of Srirangam and that the villages, both to the east (south) in his Navadvipa Satakam, was and west of Ganges, were only suburbs, followed by Sri Narahari Chakraborty at within the Navadvip Mandala of 32 miles great length. Antardwip, as the name circumference consisting of nine regions indicates, is the heart of the island town called “Dwipas”. which contains the village of “ Sri Mayapur” Navadvip is a very ancient city and reported in which stood the house of Sri Chaitanya, to have been founded in 1063 by one of this has been described as the central part the Sena Kings of Bengal. In the “Aini- of the core and the centre of a circle of Akbari” it is noted that during the time of eight islands within a circumference of

281 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA thirty-two miles. birth-place of Sriman Mahaprabhu with this Thakur Bhakti Vinode, a great savant of place (Mayapur). From amongst the most the day, who decided to dwell at Sri genuine devotee the Thakur received the Vrajananda, particularly at Radhakund with support of Sri Jagannath Das Babaji, who a view to leading a recluse’s life entirely was then more than a hundred years old devoted to Hari-bhajan, on the eve of his and recognised leader of the Vaishnava departure was commanded by the celestial world. He unhesitatingly declared this place voice of Sri Gauri Sunder (Sri Chaitanya as the site of Sriman Mahaprabhu’s birth, Mahaprabhu ) Himself to think: “There is to which he frequently paid visits and where much work to be done in Gaurimandal. That he used to dance in ecstasy on the phalguni will be done by you. Refrain from going to Purnima day to celebrate the birth of our Vraja- mandal.” Lord. What happened next? Thakur himself has Thakur Bhakti Vinode equipped with narrated in his diary thus “It was at about sufficient material called for a public meeting 10 o’clock at night, while the sky was heavily on January, 1894, in Krishna Nagar, (Dist. clouded, that I saw on the banks of the Head quarters). Many historians, Ganges a palace-like building beautifully archaeologists and men of letters of the illuminated at night. I had a vision in country supported the said discovery of response, to which the next morning I went Sridham Mayapur as the birth-place of Sri to that place and saw a high mound densely Chaitanya Mahaprabhu and forthwith a covered by Tulasi plants. On enquiry the society was formed under the name of grand old Mohammedan inhabitant of the Navadvip Dham Pracharini Sabha. And soon place informed me that whenever they the icons of Sri Gauranga and Vishnupirya went for cultivation or even for other were installed in a thatched hut amidst purposes something serious happened to great festivities. But in Thakur’s diary we them and so they never ventured to go find he kept a note that though to a even by the side of the mound. They were materialist’s eye Navadvip looked like an aware traditionally that this was the very ordinary place at that time with thatched birth-place of a Hindu God Nimai Prabhu. huts, today by the grace of Sri Gauranga Thakur Bhakti Vinode was a man of letters; we have palatial buildings bedecked with be knew well that his discovery of the birth- jewels, very beautiful gardens and gates place of Lord Gauranga at Sri Mayapur was befitting them and greeting our sight. in tune with the instruction be received Behold. from God and be himself had no doubts, Sri Gauranga and Vishnupriya, are actually yet be knew that the people were normally standing in the temple. What a divine non-believers and suspected a divine image! What a divine image! Today, when revolution. one visits Sridham Mayapur be finds bow He vigorously searched out, from the Thakur’s vision became true. authoritative books written by the genuine When Hindu religion was in great danger Vaishnavas, and also from numerous Lord Sri Chaitanya was born at Sri Mayapur, government documents, the identity of the destined to remove the dark clouds which

282 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA had over-shadowed true religious thinking. I shall dwell in a hut at the loneliest place, He brought about a religious upheaval, in the transcendental grove on the banks which put an end to all religious conflicts of Jahnavi, having sheltered at the feet of and suicidal fissiparous tendencies. The the son of Shachi, I shall drink at all times benign influence of His philosophy of love, the nectarine Krishna name and shout “Oh made the whole of India a spiritually united Gaura- “, friends of the fallen; with cultural domain. He delivered sinners and forsaken ones; Jagai and Madhai, two vile persons became His ardent devotees. He converted the Muslim Governor Chanda Kazi into a Bhakta and also same Pathan chiefs of the north. Governor Ray, Chief Minister, Sri Sanatan, Finance Minister Sri Rupa, and Sri Raghunatha Das, only son of a zamindar, and several others renounced their all at his call. Great scholar like Sarvabhouma and tears I shall roam about, shouting, “Oh Prakashananda acknowledged His divinity. Goura-Nitai”. Within the 32 miles And Prataprudra, the mighty king of Orissa, circumference of the Mahadham on both dedicated his life to him. Sanskrit and the sides of the banks of Jahnavi, I shall Bengali literature during this time received find them under a tree, what a glowing a new impetus ‘and soul-enrapturing vision, I have had - so saying I shall lose Kirtana music was organised from one end my consciousness; having regained of the country to the other. The difference consciousness once again I shall shed tears between man and man was forgotten and at their remembrance.” the fundamental unity of human nature and Today Sri Chaitanya Math at Sri Mayapur human destiny was stressed. covers a mile set with beautiful temples, So by the discovery of Sridham Mayapur, standing in an atmosphere of absorbing the Holy birth-place of Lord Sri Chaitanya silence, meditation and worship, surrounded Mahaprabhu by Thakur Bhakti Vinode was on all sides by emerald green paddy fields, removed the grave error of neglect from with the Ganges flowing hard by, far from the Vaishnava world. the maddening crowd’s strife and strain. Thakur sang thus: “Knowing Mayapur is now an enchanted place - the Navadvipadhama as a replica of Vrindavana, abode of peace. The atmosphere of the

283 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA place is charming. The chanting of the holy aim to explain the teaching of Sri Chaitanya name of “ Hari” day and night transports Mahaprabhu scientifically. This is the one to a celestial planes. It is more headquarters of Sri Gaudiya Math, initiated heavenly than heaven itself. here in the mission started by Srila It is the sacred Vrindaban of Bengal, Saraswathi Thakur who was a strict hallowed, by the dancing steps of the Lord adherent to the principles of Sri Chaitanya and its air is purified by His noble call to Mahaprabhu. They practice these principles prayer. in their own lives, and as religious men go What joy it brings to the devout heart. out on a preaching tour from door to door Every particle of dust of this place is holy holding meetings and Bhajan Sankirtans. and inspiring, being hallowed by the From here missionaries have been sent to sportive performances of Gaursundar. A other countries, too. Within a short period current of life, a flow of love, the unbounded of twenty years he preached Gaudiya ocean of joy seemed to show itself and Vaishnavism throughout India and sent reflect deep satisfaction and thrills of cheer disciples to England, Germany and other are vibrating everywhere. parts of Europe and Burma to preach the The work started by Thakur Bhakti Vinode message of Sri Chaitanya, and established reached its highest culmination under the 64 branches under the name of Sri Gaudiya inspiring guidance of Srila Bhakti Siddhanta Maths throughout India and abroad and a Saraswathi Goswami. Thakur, who founded vast literature flowed through his versatile Sri Chaitanya Math, at Sri Mayapur, as the pen as well as from his disciples. The main centre of preaching, on the 27th of publications number over 1250 and are in March, 1918 A.D. made it a red letter day different languages. The vigorous in the history of theistic religious revival of missionary activities of door-to-door this age. In the centre of Sri Chaitanya preaching by Sannyasis and Brahmacharis Math he installed Sri Chaitanya and Sri of the Math duly spread Sri Chaitanya’s Radha-Krishna Deities and in the four other Teachings which have a following in every chambers separately surrounding the part of India. By this Sri Mayapur has revived central compartment of the temple for four its importance as a place of pilgrimage, Vaishnava Acharyas, viz. Sri Ramanuja, Sri visited by hundreds of thousands of people Madhva, Sri Vishnuswami and Sri Nimbarka every year. were installed for daily worship thereby Amidst harsh, arid, shrunken and unfeeling creating a democratic catholicity in his social males of the present age, Sri approach. From here Srila Saraswathi Mayapur, the holy birth-place of Lord Sri Thakur broadcast that Sri Chaitanya Math Chaitanya, stands out as the monument is established to carry the holy gift of the of austere striving affirming the glorious ancient religion and culture preserved in memory of that uplifting episode of Sri this land and preached by millions of sages Gauranga’s ministry. that was fearless, from age to age, this message was to be tireless and liberal. taken to every door step through the medium of discussion study, and research

284 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Rajgir There are a number of hot springs here which are considered sacred. They are situated there on the banks of the smalI river Saraswathi. Seven of them are situated near the foot of the Vaibhara hill AJGIR is about 35 Km. from Patna and six near the Vipula. The springs are and lies in a delightful glade girdled Ganga, Yamuna, Ananta Rishi, Sapta Rishi, by a semi circle of hills. Located here R Vyasa Kund, Markandeya Kund, Brahma are a group of hot springs, whose waters Kund, and Kasyapa Kund. The others are have curative properties. It must not be Sita Kund, Surya Kund, Ganesh Ram Kund, imagined, however, that Rajgir owes its Chandrama, Sringi Rishi Kund. importance merely to the beauty of its Besides the hot-springs this place was the surroundings. The Great Buddha, whose life home of a number of sages. The names and teachings have moulded human are there even today though the Ashrams thought and conduct for twenty five have disappeared. Kanva Ashram and centuries, spent the greater part of his Kausika Ashram are found here. Kanva Rishi life in this region. of Shakuntala fame is said to have stayed Though Buddha was born in Nepal, here. Buddhism has its origin in Bihar. Jainism has How does a hot spring or a geyser, which also its association with this place. is of mere geographical importance, Though Rajgir is set amongst beautiful becomes a place of importance for pilgrims? surroundings, its importance does not The answer to this has been supplied by merely lie in that alone. It was the one great saint of recent times, Swami Metropolis of Magadha. The very word Rajgir Tapovanji Maharaj of Uttar Kasi in his book is derived from “Raja Griha” meaning “the Hima Giri Vihar. “Modern scientists explain home of royalty”. King Bimbisara extended away such phenomena as flames rising from the frontiers of Magadha and Rajgir rocks of sulphur, but to the common man assumed an even greater importance. it is a marvel. The ancient Rishis made use Bimbisara’s son, Ajata Satru, brought a of such uncommon Natural phenomena as portion of the sacred relics of Buddha and a means to draw the mind of worldlings enshrined these in a stupa at Rajgir. from external things and project it Rajgir has also been mentioned in several Godward. At the sight of such rare and places in the Puranas. In the Ramayana it wonderful sights even atheists come to is called Vasu Mati; another Purana refers exclaim, ‘Lo! see the glorious divine sport.’ to it as Brihadratha Pura and Giri Vraja by That is why as a general rule, in India which name it is usually referred to in the strikingly strange or arrestingly beautiful Mahabharata. In those days it was spots have been celebrated as Tirthas and surrounded by five hills, Vaibhara, Varaha, the abodes of Gods.” Vrishabha, Rishi Giri and Chaityaka, but now they are called Vaibhara, Vipula, Ratna, Chhatha and Saila.

285 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Makhdam Kund Lord Jagannath of Puri Compiled Feature Originally Sringhi Rishi Kund was a place of pilgrimage for the Muslims as well. A Sufi URl is a Kshetra (centre) of great Saint of the name Makhdum Shah religious importance. From time Sharifuddin is said to have stayed here and immemorial pilgrims have been visiting fasted for forty jays. His tomb is at Bihar P this holy place to get a glimpse of Lord Sharif, about 64 Km. from Patna. His tomb Jagannath. attracts thousands of visitors from all parts of India. The Saint left his body in 1379. A Celebrated Vishnu Kshetra continuous line of disciples have kept his memory alive for almost six centuries. This pilgrim centre is a celebrated Vishnu Kshetra attracts millions of pilgrims every Maner year, particularly during the annual car festival. Indeed, so famous is this car A 29 Km. drive to the west from Patna festival that the expressions “Wheels of brings the visitor to a place called Maner, Jugger Naut” and “Jugger Naut” have found the earliest seat of Islamic Culture. The a permanent place in English vocabulary, great Sufi Saint, Hazrat Mukhdum Yahiya and signify a fantastic crushing force. Maneri lived here in the 13th century. As early as the 13th century, Indian poetry, Indradhyumna’s quest and the music and architecture began to reflect a sculptor’s unfinished images synthesis. A number of saints came to prominence, who were revered by Hindus According to tradition, Jagannath was and Muslims alike. Bihar’s medieval originally a tribal God, worshipped by the monument represents a blend of Hindu- Savara tribe of Orissa deep in a primeval Muslim architectural features. The Bari forest and the image was a beautiful one Dargah, which is the most sacred Muslim carved of deep blue saffire. The great King shrine, reflects the blend. The Bari Dargah Indradhyumna, who heard of this beautiful is the tomb of the Sufi Saint who left this image, sent out Brahmin emissaries in quest world in 1282. It is considered to be a very of it and at last, they found it at Puri. sacred shrine in Bihar. Indradhyumna came down with a large entourage, but when he reached Puri, somehow the image disappeared. He stayed at Puri and performed a penance to propitiate the Lord, who finally appeared in’ his dream and directed him to perform a Yajna, which would enable him to trace the Lord, not in its original form as the saffire image, but in the shape of a huge log, that would come floating towards him 286 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA on the waves of the sea, with certain through a period of Buddhist influence, and distinctive features marked on it. re-emerged in a new pattern of Krishna Indradhyurnna did accordingly, and though worship. Characterised by catholicity and he found the logs as anticipated he could free from caste barriers and restriction the not get a competent sculptor to carve out deity of Jagannath at Puri is universally the image of the Deity. His persistent accessible for direct, unmediated worship prayers brought before him an old Brahmin, and adoration by all. who offered to carve out the image on the The five famous sacred spots at Puri are log, but under strict conditions. The old (1) the Pool of Markandeya, (2) the Banyan man was to keep himself locked in a room tree which is identified with Krishna, (3) for 21 days along with the log of wood and Rouhineya or Bala Rama, (4) the sea and no one was to interrupt him during the whole (5) the pool of Indradhyumna. period. But Indradhyumna’s impatience got the better of him and he broke open the The Pilgrim at the shrine door a week too soon, only to find that the sculptor had mysteriously disappeared, The scriptures advise the intending pilgrim leaving the images, (three in number) to visit the Jagannath Kshetra in the month unfinished. The forms of the Lord of Jyeshta, so as to be in the divine Jagannath and Bala Bhadra were in presence on the 12th of the bright half of complete stumps. While that of Goddess Jyeshta. One’s first duty upon reaching the was altogether shapeless. That Kshetra, is to take a bath in the sacred is how they are seen in the sacred shrine waters of the Markandeya pool and then at Puri, but the absence of feet and hands proceed to the nearby Siva Temple, for and the manifestation of the divine as the darshan of the Lord there and move shapeless are regarded by the pious as an on to the Banyan tree that is considered exemplification of the Vedic Truth that the to be Vishnu Himself, to be circumambula- Supreme can accomplish whatever it wills ted thrice, before going on to the worship without the aid of organs and instruments. of Bala Rama, Sri Krishna and his sister The images were installed as they were Subadra, successively. and Indradhyurnna had not only a The shrine of Lord Jagannath is surrounded magnificent temple built to house them, by two compound walls and is constructed but also had three huge chariots made, in on an elevated ground. The present temple which he got them conveyed to the temple is a massive, magnificent construction rising at Puri. to a height of 65 metres (214 feet), decked with elegant figurines and beautiful Buddhist influence in Puri ornamental work, and is believed to have been constructed about 800 years ago, Puri is believed to have survived an during the reign of Ananta Varma Chola upheaval in basic religious concepts and Ganga. forms of worship. Originally famous as a Inside the compound wall there are holy Hindu Kshetra, it has also passed innumerable shrines, from very small ones

287 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA carved out in the niches of the wall to the temple to mingle with the common large separate ones dedicated to different people and to hear and alleviate their deities, but in the centre of the main temple sufferings. The chariots are pulled by thick stands Lord Jagannath in all his majesty, coir ropes and all the pilgrims take part in towering above all other Gods. The main the pulling, for it is believed that whosoever tower of the temple is surmounted by the even touches the rope will be redeemed. mystic wheel and flag of Vishnu. The cars are thus taken to “Gundicha Ghar”, Inside the Garbha Griha or sanctum or the garden house which is about a mile sanctorum are the three huge wooden from the main temple, but the procession, images of Jagannath, Bala Bhadra and moving through the packed path, at times Subhadra, installed on a high stone takes as much as 24 hours to reach the pedestal. 1,500 hereditary Pandas perform destination. After a week’s halt at the daily rituals in elaborate detail, “Gundicha Ghar” the Lord returns to his according to the Puja and Alankara Vidhis. head-quarters at the temple. The proximate attendants of the Deity are divided into thirty six orders. The The flat kitchens attached to the temple supply food for some 10,000 people daily. Another popular festival is the Chandan The tradition according to which the holy Yatra. The Deity then is taken out for food is served is unique. High and Low, twenty- one days during mid-summer (April- rich and poor, without distinction of caste May) to Narendra Tatak and rowed in and creed share the received offerings on beautifully decorated barges and the same platter. subsequently the images are dipped in a receptacle containing the fragrant sandal- A colourful city vibrant with devotional wood paste. This ritual is carried out daily life for the whole period of twenty-one days, to mark the change of season and provide Puri is a colourful city, always vibrant with for a cooling of the weather. Dasarah is life. Some 62 different festivals are another festive season and it is also observed during the year, but the most celebrated with pomp and splendour in the important is the or the Car city of Puri. Krishna as Lord of the city of festival. The Ratha Yatra is a glorious and Puri bewitches the hearts of devotees, even breath-taking sight, the streets are packed as he does at Mathura, Brindavan, Udupi with thousands of pilgrims, seeking to get and Pandarpur. a glimpse of the Lord on this auspicious occasion. The three images are brought Hallowed by visit of saints out from the temple and are taken through the city in massive wooden chariots, of The sanctity of Puri has been further which Lord Jagannatha’s is the biggest and deepened by the visit of great saints who leads the rest, in the line. Tradition has it have left their imprint on her soil and that on such an occasion he comes out of Culture. Sri Sankaracharya was among the

288 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA carried the message of Bhakti to Bengal and Orissa. Kabirdas taught and spread the spirit of equality among human beings as the children of God, and the idea of universal love breaking all boundaries of caste, creed, or sect. His Ram Bhajans are widely popular in this region, and a monastery dedicated to Kabirdas exists even today at Puri, where pilgrims continue to gather to receive the consecrated rice- water and bread crumbs. After Kabir, came Shri Chaitanya Maha Prabhu, hailed throughout the land as Vishnu Himself, spent several years of his life of devotion in Orissa. He not only taught but exemplified in himself the Truth that loving devotion fore-most who visited Puri, and established was the path par-excellence to secure a the Govardhana Peetha there. Ramananda vision of the Lord. Sri Chaitanya lived in of the 14th century considered a close the city of Puri and popularised the worship follower of Sri Ramanuja and Kabirdas the of Lord Jagannath. And Puri reverberates Muslim devotee, who was one of the twelve also with the devotional music of - Jaya disciples of Ramananda are said to have Deva of Ashtapadi fame.

289 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA The Testimony of Sakshi Gopal devoted to Lord Krishna replied that the Lord himself would bear witness. A About ten miles from Puri is the village of Panchayat was held to settle the matter, Sakshi Gopal, named after the presiding and when the young man was asked to deity in the temple there. It is said that a produce his witness he went to Brindavan pilgrim who visits Puri has to visit this temple and begged of the Lord enshrined there to as well, as the Lord here is the witness go to the village and help him get married. who testifies to the pilgrim having visited The Lord directed him to go back to the Puri. Hence the Lord here is known as village, saying that He would be following Sakshi (witness) Gopal. him, but that if at any place the young By the side of the main temple of Sakshi man turned back, that would be the end Gopal is a tank called Chandana Tatak and of his following, for the Lord would stop pilgrims take a bath in this tank before there and proceed no further. As an entering the sanctum. Besides the assurance, however that the Lord was Chandana Tatak, there are two more tanks following he would continue to hear the on either side of the temple called tinkling of his ankle bells. The story goes Syamkund and Garbhakund. The image of that at a place called Phul Alsa, the sound Lord Gopal in the sanctum is beautiful of Krishna’s anklets got muffled because beyond description. Close to this shrine of the sandy ground, and the young man there is also another shrine dedicated to felt impelled to turn back to see why it Radha, the beloved of Krishna. stopped. And then and there, Lord Krishna The story associated with the origin of the turned into a statue and got fixed at the temple has inspired the poets of Orissa and spot. When the people and the Panchayat enriched Oriya Literature. It is said that heard of all that had happened they felt once a rich old Brahmin from a village near they had sufficient evidence to confirm the Puri undertook a pilgrimage. A young lad marriage proposals. It is said that the King joined him on the way and offered to of Cuttack once had this image brought to accompany him. Thereafter, throughout the Puri and installed in the precincts of arduous pilgrimage on foot, the young lad Jagannath Mandir. But strangely enough, served the old man with love. Pleased with after this installation, the offerings made the youth’s loving care, the old man vowed, to Jagannath vanished from the place. in the presence of God, at Brindavan, that Guided by this indication, the authorities he would give his daughter in marriage to later transferred the image to this village the young man just as a token of his ten miles away from Puri where a separate admiration at the youth’s services. But on shrine was built for him, - Sakshi Gopal. their return to the village, the sons of the And in his place in Jagannath Mandir, old man refused to agree to the marriage another image, that of Sri Satya Narayana, with one who was obviously penniless and was consecrated. added that the old man’s alleged promise had nothing to confirm it by way of witness or proof. The youth who was deeply

290 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA KONARK ugly disease, went to Maitreya Vana and performed penance to propitiate the Sun- God (Surya). It is said that the deity appeared to him and told Samba to repeat the twenty-one names of the Sun-God, The Legend and the Shrine and take a bath in river Chandra Bhaga. When Samba took his bath in the river, he ne of the four principal Kshetras found in it an image of the Sun-God as of Orissa, and one of India’s most seated in a lotus. He took it out, and famous Arka-Kshetras (pilgrim O installed it on the banks of the river, where centres dedicated to the Sun-God), a temple was constructed. On worshipping Konarak or Konaditya is situated twenty the deity here Samba was cured of the one miles north-east of Jagannath Khetra disease with which he had been stricken. at Puri. This temple is on the banks of river Even now, people believe that if a person Chandra Bhaga, a branch of the Prachi river. suffering from a disease like leprosy would Built in 1278 A.D., this temple is a worship the Sun-God, enshrined here, with magnificent piece of architectural beauty, single minded devotion, he would be cured. spacious and unique in design. A devotee called Samba, stricken with an

291 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Zarathustra attain salvation. It is said that the Sun- God was first visualised by Samba on the Varaha Mihira, the great astronomer and 7th day of the bright half of the Magha astrologer of the 6th century, states in his and therefore a visit to the temple on this “Brihat “ that the rituals regarding date is considered particularly sacred. the installation and worship of the Sun- The present temple at Konarak is believed God should be traced to the Magas, who to have been constructed during the reign are considered to be the descendants of of King Narasimha Deo, who ruled Orissa the Sun-God Himself. The Magas are also during the 13th century. Abdul Fuzl who regarded as the descendants of visited the temple writes that the entire Sastra, who is identified with the Avesta revenue of Orissa State for a period of 12 prophet Zarathushtra. The Magas are years was spent on the construction of stated to reside -at Saka Dwipa and the this temple, which is estimated at Rs. 36 Avyanga, a girdle, is part of their costume. crores. Samba, who consecrated the image of the Sun- God in this temple, is said to have The Magnet that Deflected Ships on brought some of the Magas from Saka Dvipa Voyage to carry on the worship at the temple. Scholars believe that these Magas are the A huge magnetic stone was believed to Magis of ancient Persia and the girdle have been found on the Sikhara or tower (Avyanga) is the Kasti or the Avyoanghen of this temple, which deflected ships of Avesta. passing by this shore away from their The association of the Magas with India is course and towards itself and many ships very ancient and it is mentioned in Varaha are thus believed to have been wrecked Mihira’s works. He describes the Sun-God on these shores. It is said that the Muslim in his Brihat Samhita and says that his legs crew of a ship invaded the temple and took are covered up to the knees and he is away the magnet. It was then that this dressed up in an identifiable style, with a image was removed from this sanctum to girdle around his waist. The images of Sun- Puri. God found in our temples are carved with heavy boots reaching up to the knees, and Konarak’s Architectural Excellence the girdle has one end hanging down in the Persian fashion. The temple of Konarak is famous for its Numerous are the Sun temples that existed architectural splendour. According to in North India. The story of Samba is also Sterling, the architecture and sculptures associated with the origin of the Sun in the temple exhibit a degree of taste, temple at Multan. propriety and freedom which would stand The says that one should comparison with some of our best worship the Sun-God at Konarak particularly specimens of Gothic architectural on the 7th of the bright half of Magha to ornaments. The workmanship, too, remains achieve fulfilment of one’s desires and as perfect as if it had first come from the

292 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA chisel of the sculptor, owing to the extreme remote village of Orissa and appointed the hardness and durability of the stone.” The master architect. The construction of the Nava Grahas on the Sikhara are a temple was expected to be completed by monumental testimony to the architectural that period, that is in about 14 years and excellence of the day. The temple itself is though the main construction had been unique in its plan, a dream of the sculptor completed by that period, the temple itself given shape in stone. remained incomplete, as the top stone that Carved as a Chariot, it has twenty-four was to serve as the Gopura, a huge single huge wheels of 9 feet 8 inches diameter stone with the Nava Grahas around it, could each and the chariot is shown to be drawn not be lifted and placed on top. Months by the seven mighty horses of the Sun’s passed and a whole year went by. The distinctive vehicle. The animals are carved King was growing impatient and threatening exquisitely, straining visibly under the reins, the sculptor with death, yet Maharana was their muscles taut and poised to break into unable to find a way of lifting the Gopura a gallop. to the top. Hunter describes in great detail the artistic Then one morning as he sat gazing at the carvings on the temple: “Huge elephants fiat top of the temple, trying to think of a crouch in terror of rampant lions, club men, solution to the knotty problem, a young griffins, warriors on prancing horses, lad of about 16, approached him and offered colossal figures of grotesque and varied his help to solve the problem. Maharana shapes, stand about in silent stony groups”. smiled indulgently at the lad, wondering The intricate ornamental work on the walls how a mere slip of a boy could possibly of the temple is extremely beautiful. The solve such a tricky problem, and asked the concentration is, however, on the female lad to speak out. But, to his utter surprise form and its beauty. Woman in her many the lad’s solution turned out to be a very stages of Alankara and in her varied moods, good one and Maharana immediately playful, reflective or amorous is carved with organised the labourers to start on the a finesse of art and reality of expression idea. The labourers, working under the that leaves one wondering about the boy’s guidance, erected a platform sloping artistic genius of those sculptors. She is upwards to the top and with the help of everywhere laced into the intricate designs stout ropes, rolled the round Nava Graha in every niche, melting subtly into the Gopuram to the top, while some tugged sculptor’s pattern and highlighting it much from the top and others pushed the circular as she does in real life. piece of stone from behind. Thus by evening the Gopuram got installed on the A Tale woven into the construction of top. It was then that a vicious fear entered Konarak the heart of Maharana, that the years of his labour would be eclipsed by the brilliance Woven into the history of the construction of the boy and so he killed the boy then of Konarak is a tragic tale. A great sculptor and there. Loaded with the treasures by name Maharana had been called from a bestowed on him by the King, Maharana

293 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA returned home after a period of 15 years. Linga Raja and the plan of the construction He was greeted by his surprised wife, who was too vast to be completed in his time. queried as to where their son was. According to tradition, the temple was Maharana was puzzled by his wife’s completed in 666 A.D. by his grandson Lala question and asked her to explain. She told Tendu Kesari. him that their son, who was a mere child of one year when Maharana left home, had The glory of Bhuvaneswar gone in search of his father to Konark. Realising that the brilliant lad who gave Bhuvaneswar is the city of temples in Orissa him the solution and whom he killed was like Kanchi in Tamil Nadu. In Brahmanda his own son, Maharana fell down and died Purana, the Kshetra is depicted as of shock. consisting of one crore of Lingas and as Such is the temple of Konarak, into whose sacred as Kasi Kshetra, “Linga Koti past are woven legend, romance and myth. Samayuktam Varanasyah Sarnam Subham”. It is famous for its sanctity and its Though it does not boast of one crore of sculptural glory. Facing the sea-shore, Lingas today, Bhuvaneswar abounds in washed by the waves, the temple temples, a vast number of them sprinkled dedicated to the Sun God receives the first in and around the city. Many of them are rays of the golden sun as he emerges on in a ruined condition today. Of the temples the horizon. A sacred place, it is the true here, the most famous is the Linga Raja pilgrim centre where the devotees go to temple which attracts countless pilgrims beseech the Lord to alleviate their every year from all corners of India. The sufferings and grace them with his mercy. temple is a magnificent one, extravagantly carved, rich in architectural splendour and Bhuvaneswar - The Krittivasa Kshetra enshrines Lord Siva as Kritti Vasas, enjoying a great place of honour among the revered The sacred Krittivasa Kshetra in Utkala is Kshetras. another Tirtha of rare merit. Comparable Traditionally a pilgrimage to Puri is regarded in its sanctity and antiquity to Benares, it as futile, unless the pilgrim visits first Lord is the abode of Lord Siva as Kritti Vasa Linga Raja at Bhuvaneswar. one of his chosen abodes on earth, like Mount Kailas in the Himalayas, Kasi or Ekamra Kanan and Bindu Sagar Rameswaram, Mentioned in Brahmanda Purana, its unquestionable antiquity and This place, known also as the Ekamra sanctity have made it a great Siva Kshetra, Kanan, has its name mentioned in the where millions of pilgrims pour in. The temple Puranas. It is said that once Lord Siva told in this Kshetra is believed to have been Parvathi that the beautiful Ekamra Kanan constructed by Yayati Kesari of the famous is his favourite resort and Parvathi came Kesari Dynasty who shifted his capital there down in the form of a cowherd girl to see from Jaipur. He started the construction of the Kanan. When she was roaming about a magnificent temple for Lord Krittivasa or in the Kanan, enchanted by its beauty,

294 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA two tyrants, Kritti and Vasa, fell in love It is believed that a pilgrimage to this with her and asked her to marry him. She Kshetra and the worship of the Lord laid down the condition that they should releases one from the burden of all his sins first carry her on their shoulders, and so and takes him to Heaven and he is born in they lifted her on to their shoulders only the next life as a saintly person, achieving to be crushed under the unbearable weight salvation thereafter. of the powerful Goddess. After she had All the temples at Bbuvaneswar have a thus crushed and killed the demons Parvathi similar plan, a sanctum (the main gopuram felt very thirsty and appealed to Lord Siva, topped by the Vimana) , and three to quench her thirst. The Lord immediately mantapams, (the , Nata caused a lake to be dug there and asked Mantapa and Bhoga Mantapa). The all the sacred rivers, lakes and streams to architecture of these temples is said to be contribute their mite to the new lake. All based on the Indo-Aryan style, though the sacred waters except Godavari thus some historians feel that it is highly contributed to the lake which came to be individualistic and is characteristic of the known as “Bindu Sagar” (a lake made of drops). The” Bindu Sagar” is a huge lake measuring 1 ,400' by 1,100' and a pilgrimage to this Kshetra starts with a bath in this beautiful lake. The Kshetra padi or the head of this centre is considered to be Ananta Vasudeva, whose temple is found on the banks of the lake. A bath in the tank is considered to be in itself highly sanctifying. After having a darshan of Lord Ananta Vasudeva, Ganapathi, Gopalini Devi, Skanda, and Nandi, the pilgrim proceeds to the shrine of Linga Raja, the Lord of the three worlds, Tribhuvanas - known concisely as Bhuvaneswar. Worship of this deity is performed according to the Pooja Vidhi prescribed in Brahmanda Purana. The worship can be performed both by Agama and Vaidika .

295 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA architecture belonging to itself. small mantap where the Lord is brought The Parasurameswara temple is among the once a year for a bath and the festival oldest of Orissa temples. The Linga Raja attracts numerous pilgrims. On the eastern temple is the biggest and occupies an area bank of Bindu Sagar is a temple called of 520' by 465'. The temple of Bhagavathi, . Brahmeswara is situated north-west of the Linga Raja temple is a little further down, and temple within the compound itself. The deity Bhaskareswara temple, which is to the in the sanctum, Sri Linga Raja, is in the north east, is in ruins now. form of a huge uncarved granite block, eight The temple of Raja Rani is another specimen feet in diameter and rising eight inches of architectural excellence. Ferguson calls above the floor level. It stands on a rim of it “one of the gems of Orissa art”. The black chlorite, the rim of the ‘Yoni’ tapering Sidharanya, to the west of Raja Rani temple, to a point towards north. On this rim or consists of a group of temples of which ‘Yoni’ surrounding the Linga are three deep, the important ones are the Mukteswara, meandering crevices coming round the Linga Kedareswara, Siddheswara and meeting at a small patch of cavity at the Parasurameswara temples. mouth of the tapering rim. These three About two miles from Bhuvaneswar temple crevices are considered to be the three there is also another small hill called holy rivers, Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswathi, Dhavala Giri, where Buddhist caves are and the cavity to be the point of Triveni found. It is believed that this is the very Sangam. A thin jet of water constantly spot, where the historic Kalinga war of flows through these crevices into the Asoka had taken place. Moved by the cavity which is scooped up by the Pandas unbearable sight of the massacre in the and offered as Tirtha to the devotees. battle field, it is here that Asoka underwent The great tower of the main gopuram is a change of heart and found solace in 180' in height and is a marvel of Buddhism. This hill is called Aswathama and architecture. . Carved entirely of red-stone, the on this hill is known by the same the whole structure had been erected “Aswathama Vihara.” The Sthala Purana without the use of ‘any mortar. The beauty says that once Visveswara, the presiding of the carvings, the human figures and deity of Kasi got tired of the din and bustle ornamental designs, have made the temple of that Kshetra, where devotees pour in very famous in the world of art. They are by the thousands, day by day and came the indelible recordings of the great artistic down to Ananta Vasudeva on the banks of wealth of Orissa and indeed, she is the Bindu Sagar and requested permission to proud mother, whose gifted sons imparted stay there for some time, whereupon life to the stone they chiseled. Ananta Vasudeva compelled him to stay on permanently and it is on this resting Other Temples in the Vicinity spot chosen by Lord Siva of Kasi that the Raja Rani temple was built. In the centre of Bindu Sagar, situated to The Mukteswara temple is a very elegantly the north of the temple is “ Mandir”, a carved temple, though smaller in size than

296 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA the others. The bass reliefs, the statues the boon of Liberation and for a glimpse of and the floral ornamental designs carved the Lord of the worlds - Visveswara at in this temple are done exquisitely, showing Kasi and Bhuvaneswara at . great intricacy of detail and the “torana” here has been very elaborately and The Caves that echo the Sramana magnificently carved. Dharma Parasurameswara temple is the oldest in this Kshetra whereas, both Siddheswara Three miles from Bhubaneswar is the and Kedareswara temples are also very Khanda Giri with its three caved-in peaks ancient and built earlier than the Linga Raja of Khanda Giri, Udaya Giri and Nilgiri, soaring Temple. into the blues with caves agape as though In the temple of Linga Raja, poojas to the searching for the serene beauty of Buddha, deity are offered as detailed by the and the meditating Mahavira in the fleecy Brahmanda Purana. Twenty-two different clouds. rituals are observed daily, including the There are a total of sixty caves in these bathing of the deity thrice a day in water, hills, forty four of them in Udaya Giri, milk and Bhang. The worship is performed nineteen in Khanda Giri and three in Nilgiri. both by Agama and Vaidika mantras. From The caves in Khanda Giri are mainly of Jain rousing the Lord from sleep early in the origin, whereas Udaya Giri and Nilgiri caves morning up to “ ” (putting the Lord show Buddhist impact. The inscription in to bed) each one of these twenty two the caves and in the nearby villages rituals are observed with great care and pirticularly in Dhauli - six miles south west performed in elaborate detail. of Bhubasewar - speak of the predomi- Like that of the prasad of Lord Jagannath nance of Buddhism in these areas, when at Puri, the prasad of Linga Raja cannot Yayati Kesari shifted his capital to be rejected. It is considered very sacred Bhubaneswar and started on the and pure and is given to one and all. Before construction of the Linga Raja temple. In the deity, in the distribution of the prasad, the village of Dhauli are found the rock there is no discrimination in terms of caste edicts of Asoka and an elephant originally or creed and no one refuses the prasad designed as an emblem of Buddha, which offered to him on the ground that it has have survived the rough and tumble of been touched by some one of a lower nature for over two thousand years and caste. On a footing of equality one stands which stand to this day proclaiming the here with an uplifted feeling and elevated glory of their Buddhist King and the heart, in the presence of the omnipotent Dharma of the serene saint - Buddha - Lord, Bhuvaneswara and Linga Raja, who that changed the war-thirsty King and bless and bestow their grace on all alike. ended his bloody battles here on this very They come from all corners, his children, soil of Kalinga. The Ranika Nahar, which is the pilgrims, pouring into the city for a believed to be the Palace of the queen, bath in the Ekamra Tirtha feeling that like wife of Lalatendu Kesari is on the Udaya the Ganges at Kasi, it bestows on them Giri peak. This is a very beautifully carved

297 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA cave, a treasure house of intrinsic and Sri Ramanuja elegant carvings, elaborate in detail and design. The Swarga Puri cave, the Ganesa as a Pilgrim Gumpha, the Jaya Vijaya cave, Vaikunta PROF. M. R. SAMPAT KUMARAN, M.A. cave, Hathi Gumpha, Pavana Gumpha and Bagh Gumpha all contain ancient Religion and Pilgrimage sculptures, figures and carvings and carry the aura and glory of the heritage of an ILGRIMAGE may be nearly as old as ancient culture. In the Khanda Giri caves religion. Indeed, according to one many carvings exhibit Jainism and its Ptheory, religion itself has its roots in influence, and here there is a huge image a peculiar feeling associated with particular of the Digambara Jain Sraman carved in a places. The prevalence of pilgrimage in black stone. almost all religions, major and minor, As an abode of Lord Siva, Bhubaneswar demonstrates its intimate links with the ranks with Kasi in the north, while in the religious quest. Even religions opposed to abundance of temples and their sculptural idolatry have had to come to terms with beauty and sanctity, it is comparable to the desire for pilgrimage. Kanchi in the south. Like Kanchi, it boasts The word “pilgrim” seems to have meant of a conglomeration of religions too and originally a traveller and derives ultimately was in the ancient days, as it continues from the Latin word, “Peregrines” meaning to be now a birth place of culture and art. a stranger. We even now use the word, “Peregrination” in the sense of wandering about, travelling. In course of time, the pilgrim became a special kind of traveller, one who journeys to places considered sacred or holy. In somewhat similar fashion, the Sanskrit word, “Yatra”, meaning a journey, has come to denote pilgrimage. There has been faith in the existence of such places from time immemorial all over the world. Greek Paganism had its holy places, and the Romans followed suit. Christians naturally regarded Jerusalem as sacred and undertook perilous journeys to visit the places associated with the life and activities of the Redeemer. There is a record of a Christian Bishop undertaking a pilgrimage to Palestine in the early years of the third century and the crusades can be regarded as armed pilgrimages. A Semitic tradition of pilgrimage dates back to very

298 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA early times. A visit to Mecca is enjoined Pilgrimage in on all devout followers of Prophet Mohammed and this pilgrimage has been Sri Ranga Mahatmya, in the version known declared to be “the fifth pillar of Islam.” To as the Satadhyayi and claimed to be a part Buddhists, places linked with the life of of the Garuda Purana, devotes almost one Buddha, his relics and those of saints are chapter (the 8th) to the theory of sacred spots. In India of earlier ages, rivers pilgrimage. It explains that a temple of and mountains had acquired sacred Vishnu is the Punya Kshetra (holy place) associations. In due course, regions called par excellence. Any waters purified by the Arya Varta and Brahmarshi Desa came to dust of His feet are sacred. The Lord alone be specially esteemed. Even at the time is fully auspicious and holy, and only a thing of the Bhagavad Gita, Kurukshetra was a associated with Him can be sacred. Only Dharma Kshetra, a holy plain. Our epics the remembrance of the Lord can destroy refer to Tirtha , pilgrimages to sacred all sins, and only through contact with Him streams and mountains. do things get purified. The Ganga destroys Pilgrimages have been undertaken with a all sins because it flows from the feet of variety of motives which have been the Lord. The Yamuna, Kaveri and other analysed by religious teachers and rivers have become sacred on account of theologians. Among these may be association with the Lord. mentioned the securing of supernatural help, getting pardon for sins, offering Pilgrimage for Salvation thanks for favours through making votive offerings or otherwise, performing penance, It is believed that pilgrimage may even expiating sin, obeying a sentence passed become the means of salvation. Lokacharya for an act of transgression and expressing in his Mumukshu Padi, in the section devoted devotion. Most of them are common to all to the exposition of the Charama Sloka religions, more or less. What may be called (i.e. Gita, XVIII, 66), has an aphorism which the acquisition and storing up of spiritual explains the term Dharman as various merit (Punya) is a peculiarly Indian motive. means of salvation l-aid down in the Sruti Attempts have been made to explain the and and enumerates them sanctity attributed to places of pilgrimage. immediately afterwards: “These are Karma- They derive their sanctity from association and-Bhakti-, the knowledge of the with a person or thing already considered mystery of divine incarnation the holy or sacred. Tombs or Relics of saints Vidya (taught in the Gita; or Prophets, shrines where the power of XV), residence in a particular (sanctified) Divinity is specially manifest, places place (Desa Vasa), chanting the divine associated with saints, Founders of religion names, lighting lamps for the Lord, making or legends of gods and goddesses, all these garlands for the Lord and other such have attracted pilgrims. activities carried out in the belief that they are means of salvation)”. Commenting on this, Vara Vara Muni cites

299 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA various authorities to show that each of Sri Ramanuja’s Early Years these is capable of winning salvation. In regard to Desa Vasa, he explains it as living Such is the back-ground of sentiment and in a Punya Kshetra (auspicious and holy thought behind Ramanuja’s attitude to place) and quotes a line from the Sri Ranga sacredness. He was born at Sriperum- Mahatmya : “Deso Yam Sarva Kama Dhuk” budur, a village some twenty-five miles from (Satadhyayi, XI). Madras and the house in which he was in Referring to Ananta Sayya, where the Sri was near the local temple. He spent his Ranga temple came to be built, Vyasa student days and early youth at states that “this place can fulfil all desires Kanchipuram, full of famous shrines. At as a cow yields milk.” Other famous Madurantakam, not far away he received commentators have also earlier used this initiation from Peria Nambi. In the temple quotation to point out the potentialities of there his rage represents him as a house- a Punya Kshetra. bolder. The scenery some years ago of certain utensils an underground chamber Azhwars and Shrines of the temple suggests that these might have been used in reinitiation of Ramanuja. Furthermore, the hymns of the Azhwars Later, he made his headquarters at Sri and the teachings of the Sastras have Rangam, which forms the ecclesiastical been understood as pointing out that the capital of the Sri Vaishnavas, and where in Lord has chosen to make Himself manifest an island made by river Kaveri dividing and in idols and shrines in order to save and re-uniting in a temple with seven prakaras, redeem. Sri Ranganatha in Yogic Commenting on the Thiruvay Mozhi (IV. sleep on the Adi Sesha is worshipped. He 10.2) where temple in the home city of went to Tirupathi more than once and he Nammazhvar has been described as the visited Kashmir where he is said to have beloved residence of the Lord. Nambillai obtained a copy of Bodhayana’s Vritti on suggests that the Lord prefers to dwell in the Brahmasutras. Persecution by a Chola. this imperfect world in order to share in Ruler sent him into voluntary exile in the the griefs of the creatures. When doubts Hoysala Kingdom, where he discovered the were raised that such an interpretation 101 of Narayana in a jungle, consecrated might detract from the bliss of the Lord in it in a temple and built a settlement all Heaven, the reply was given that in His around known as Tiru Narayana Pura (near incarnation as Rama, He is said to have Mysore). He is also said to have undertaken become exceedingly sorry when men a number of trips to Tirukkottiyur, (near suffered. And this has been counted as an Karaikkudi) to learn from a disciple of excellence of Rama. (Ramayana, II. 2). To Yamunacharya serving there. share in the griefs of the suffering creatures rebounds to the glory of the Lord and His “Bhu-Pradakshina’ The Guru attests His perfection as nothing else can. Parampara of Pinbazhahiya Perumal Jiyar describes a Bhu-Pradakshina, as a

300 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA circumambulation of India, undertaken by Ayodhya, Deva Prayag if that is the place Ramanuja as a pilgrimage and for the sake known to the Azhwars as “Kandam”, of preading his teachings. It is related that Badrikasrama, Salagrama, Gokula, after visiting Kumbakonam and other places Brindavana, Mathura, Govardhana Hill, in the Chola Kingdom, he went to Azhagar Varanasi and Purushottama Kshetra (Puri). hills near Madurai and thence proceeded Of these, except Pushkara, Sarada Pitha, to Darbha Sayanam (in Ramnad District) Varanasi and Puri, all have been sung by where Rama is said to have prayed to the the Azhvars. Pushkara and Puri have long God of the Seas for permission to build a been famous in Epic and Purana. bridge to Lanka. At the Sarada Pitha, Ramanuja’s On the way to the famous temples in Kerala, commentary on the Brahma-Sutras is said Ramanuja passed through Tirukkurungudi to have been praised by the Goddess where the Lord was graciously pleased to Saraswathi herself, who gave it the name act as his disciple and reached Tiruvan of Sri Bhashya. His visit to Varanasi Parisaram, near Nagercoil, which must have suggests that he was not so indifferent to attracted him as the home of this great centre of pilgrimage and to the Nammazhvar’s Mother. His itinerary next Ganga flowing there as his followers later took him to Tiruvattar and Trivandrum and tended to become. In his manual of daily from there to ten other temples celebrated worship called the Nitya, he enjoins in the poems of Nammazhvar and meditation on the Ganga as is using from Kulasekhara. the lotus feet of the Lord. At Puri he is stated to have founded a Mutt. Worship in Kerala Shrines Return Homeward through Andhra There is a tradition that explains why the Vishnu temples in Kerala still observe forms Setting out homewards, he worshipped at of worship different from those of the Sri Kurma and Simachala, where traditions Vaikha-nasa and Pancha Ratra Agamas of his visit survive. Passing through Ahobila, favoured by Ramanuja. It is said that during now in Andhra Pradesh, he reached his visit to Kerala he felt convinced that Tirupathi. This was his second visit, the the Lord wished to be worshipped in that first having been paid many years earlier, particular way in that country and therefore when he learnt the hidden teachings of took no steps to change the rituals. the Ramayana from his maternal uncle who was a disciple of Yamunacharya and Along the West Coast to North India engaged in service to Srinivasa in the temple. Now he found Tirupathi in a crisis From Malabar, it is narrated, Ramanuja as a result of a claim recently put forward proceeded along the Western Coast to by Sivas to the effect that the deity in Southern India. The list of the places he the temple was none other than Siva. visited there includes Dwaraka, Pushkara, Ramanuja is said to have resolved the the Sarada Pitha of Kashmir, , dispute by leaving it to the deity to choose

301 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA between the insignia of Vishnu and Siva Azhagar Hill and Sri Villiputtur both of which were to be left in the sanctum sanctorum one night. This was Among other trips undertaken by him at done, the choice was made and the various times may be mentioned one to identity of the deity as Vishnu was Azhagar Hills and Sri Villiputtur about which demonstrated. Tradition as recorded in traditions have been handed down. Andal Tirumalai Orhuhu refers to many reforms in her Nachichiyar Tirumozhi, (IX.6) refers in the administration of the temple and to her having promised the Lord as changes in ritual carried out by Ramanuja. worshipped at Azhagar Hills with huge From Tiru Narayanapuram and Tirupathi quantities of butter and sweets. While He is also believed to have paid a third expounding the verse at Sri Rangam, visit to Tirupathi in the winter of his life, Ramanuja felt on one occasion that he after his return to Sri Rangam from Tiru must fulfil Andal’s express desire. And so Narayanapuram. It was at this time that he set forth to Azhagar’s shrine and offered he consecrated the temple of Govinda Raja all that had been promised by Andal. Then at the foot of the Tirumalai Hills. This was he sought the blessings of Andal at Sri done as the shrine of Govinda Raja at Villiputtur here she was born and where Chidambaram, which is inside the famous she is worshipped as the Lord’s bride in a temple of Nataraja, roused the fanaticism temple. Tradition says that under the of a Saiva Ruler on the Chola throne and inspiration of the Goddess, the priest of he had the image thrown into the sea. The the temple hailed Ramanuja as her elder Utsava (or processional) idol was taken over brother from Sri Rangam. to Tirupathi where it remained for some time, until Ramanuja consecrated a shrine Renovation of Shrines for Govinda Raja in the Parthaarathy temple there. During the period of exile in the Hoysala On his way back to Sri Rangam, Ramanuja Kingdom already referred to, Ramanuja not passed through Kancheepuram, Triplicane merely built Tim Narayanapuram, he also (in Madras City), where his father is said renovated Tondanur nearby, where, in a to have performed a sacrifice and prayed Mantapam he vanquished the then to Parthasarathy at the local temple for dominant Jainas in debate. At Padma Giri the birth of a son, Tirunir Malai which is a also he is said to have established his small hillock near Madras, Madurantakam, position against the Jainas. On the way to Tiruvanindrapuram near Cuddalore sung Tondanur he and his disciples spent a day by Tiru Mangai Azhvar and later associated or two in the village of Salagrama, the tank with Vedanta Desika and Viranarayana Pura which is still considered holy as having where Natha Muni, the grandfather of changed the minds and heart those Yamunacharya, had lived and laboured. opposed to him in religion and philosophy. Hoysala history suggests that Ramanuja took a leading part in building the temple Belur which is regarded as a masterpiece

302 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA in Indian architecture and the rich out the limits of the ideal pilgrimage from sculptures are among the most beautiful the Setu in the south to the Himalayas in in the world. the north. Ramanuja appears to have During the period of his exile he travelled covered this at least once, if not more North and obtained from somewhere the times. occasional idol of Sampat Kumara, now stalled in the Narayana temple at Pilgrimage inspired by devotion and Tirunarayanapuram. According to tradition, spirit of service it was gained from a Moslem Sultan at Delhi. That is impossible, as Delhi was under Hindu It is worthy of note that Ramanuja’s tours, rule till the last decade of the 12th century as much as his writings, effected when Mohammed Ghori became the first revolutionary changes in the people’s minds Moslem King to reign there. But the idol and hearts. What he taught was something must have been brought after a long and new in the context of his times, though he perilous gurney, as it is said that a claimed to be following only in the foot- bodyguard of Panchamas helped him during steps of ancient and venerable sages. The the journey and for the sake of their spirit of devotion to God flowering forth in services, he permitted entry of Panchamas service to the people inspired his mission: into the temple at Melkote for three days it was the revolutionary leaven that in the year, a custom rich continued to be affected the transformation. His spirit observed all through centuries. We can flowed into all those who came into contact only suppose that it was brought from with him directly or indirectly. The religion somewhere in north India and that after of Bhakti which spread all over India during Delhi came under Moslem writers living then the middle ages, liberalised tradition and supposed that in Ramanuja’s time too that reformed society, was the magnificent must have been the case. response to his life-long labours. Ramananda who was held in esteem by Asetu Himachalam Kabir was a South Indian Vaishnava belonging to the school of Ramanuja. Ramanuja passed away at Srirangam full Through him and Kabir, Ramanuja has links of honour. The date of his death is given even with Guru Nanak. as 1137 by tradition, “Dharma Nashtah” which, interpreted according to the Kata- Pilgrimage a unifying force Payadi, gives the Saka year corresponding to this date. The extent of his influence The tradition of pilgrimage and of spreading during his life and its persistence for religious and philosophical teachings centuries afterwards indicate that he must through wandering teachers and ascetics have travelled extensively. Local traditions has kept India together through the ages in many places far from one another and infused a deep sense of unity among connect him intimately with their temples. diverse races and creeds. India is holy to The old phrase, “Asetu-himachalam”, set all, and its sacred places often lending

303 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA sanctity to natural beauty and grandeur, Pilgrimage In Tamil Nadu educate the spirit through stimulating the A.SUBRAMANIAN, M.A. appreciation of Nature and fostering devotion to God. A parallel can be found in the development of a sense of European IRTHA is a place of Pilgrimage usually unity through the concept of Christendom situated on the banks of sacred in the day when wandering Monks and rivers. Tamilnadu is a land of Temples pilgrims brought the peoples of various T and most of them are centres of pilgrimage. countries together. In this article an attempt is made to trace There is a danger now that the bitter the origin and development of pilgrimage national struggles in Europe which rose up centres in this region. as the institution of pilgrimage fell on evil days may find their counter-parts in India. Aim and kinds of pilgrimage Already, the cry is sometimes heard, though not heeded, that Tamil pilgrims, for ex- Pilgrimage contributes to the unification of ample, must make their offerings only in Indian culture with a steady circulation of their State and not waste their money in the moral elite in the population of the temples belonging to other States. To Indian sub-continent. Sex or colour, will Ramanuja, as to all our great teachers cease to condition and economic inequality confining God to one Linguistic area would disappear in Tirtha Yatra (Pilgrimage). have seemed sacrilegious , if not ridiculous. When a tirtha is recommended, it followed And the continuing though weakened by specifying the fruit of a visit to it. It is tradition of pilgrimage keeps alive not said that in some respects pilgrimage even merely the unity of Indian Culture, but also transcends sacrifice. the spirit of its history and the memory of Every tirtha is a sanctuary. Arthasastra its splendours and glories. maintains that a pilgrim could not be traced Behind the daily prayer in the Vaishnava at pilgrim-centres. Puranas and other temples of the South, that Ramanuja’s sacred writings are replete with descriptions dispensation should spread in all directions of sacred rivers and towns. They contain as it seeks the welfare of all, may lie a dim Tirtha, Sthala and Kshetramahatmyas. memory and appreciation of his extensive There were basically two types of pilgrim pilgrimages all over India. centres: (a) permanently holy places and (b) places which become holy on special occasions, such as rare astronomical conjunctions. Based on their origin, they are of four types. 1. Daiva : Places associated with Brahma, Vishnu or Siva. 2. Asura: e.g., Gaya. 3. Arsha: Places associated with great sages. 304 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA 4. Manushya: Centres which were built by temples became pilgrim centres. rulers of the Solar and Lunar races. Some idea of the religious history of In the case of temples, another line of Tamilnadu is necessary to understand this distinction may be suggested. viz: Temples concept. Sangam period saw the divisions which were constructed at a place that of the country on the basis of local was already flourishing and town which geography. Each of these divisions (like expanded with a temple as their nucleus.

Origin of Pilgrimage in Tamilnadu

In Tamilnadu the concept of pilgrimage can be traced at least to the Sangam period. Earliest inhabitants of this region practised naturalistic polytheism. When the common people could not imagine various forms of God mentally, icons were made. Conservation and worship of these icons gave rise to erection of places of worship. The megalithic period (say, from about 500 B.C.) marks the beginning of temples over the mortal remains of the dead King or Chief. Thus the Adityesvara Temple at Tondamanad was erected by Parantaka Chola I (CA.D. 907- 947) and the temple of Arinjigai Isvara was constructed by Rajaraja Chola I (C 985-1014 AD) at Melpadi for his father, who died at Amur.! Thus burial places were Kurinji, Mullai, Marudam, Neydal, Palai) had celebrated as places of worship, and all a chief duty and the inhabitants were the members of the royal family visited them constantly visiting the places where these regularly and made liberal grants for images were installed and worshipped. offerings in the name of the deceased Round about third century B.C. people were person. When Kings and other royal bound by the caste system and those born personages did this their subjects had to in lower strata of society could not worship tow the line with them. Political conquests God directly. Further, most of the scriptures and cultural contacts brought people from were in Sanskrit or other languages different regions together. Thus these unknown to the common man. Hence there

305 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA was a big gap between the Vedic religion types of temples, such as Ilankoyil, and religious ideas of the common man. Madakkoyil, Manikkoyil etc. The most Understanding the troubled conditions reliable evidence about how medieval monks of the heterodox sects, like temples served as pilgrim centres come , contacted the from inscriptions that are found on the walls masses by giving them food, medicine and of shrines and circumambulatory paths of education. They wrote in the language of the temples. They record duplicate copies the masses and simplified methods of of endowments made by kings and pious worship. A layman could worship God with individuals. There was also a custom to marked freedom and intimacy. For a few engrave the same record in different places centuries these sects reigned the Tamil for fear of destruction. A critical study of country. these lithic records enables us to have a Towards the beginning of the seventh clear picture of the status that the century A.D. we see the emergence of a medieval temple occupied in the social and movement popularly known as the Bhakti religious life. The temple was not only a cult. The Alvars and the Nayanmars, place of worship, but served in the cultural realising their past failure to move with and ethical uplift of the masses in many the common man, started visiting all sacred ways. shrines in this region. Their pilgrimage to We understand that even in times of war holy places far and near has contributed they were not affected. On the other hand, much to the religious literature in Tamil. the invading Kings made gifts to the temple. Propagators of the Bhakti cult defeated Thus when Rajaraja Chola I invaded monks in disputes and resurrected the Polamanura in Sri Lanka, he changed its Hindu faith in the minds of the people. name as Jananathamangalam and Internal schism and gradual degradation of constructed temples there and also at personal discipline also contributed to the Rajarajapuram (presently called as slow but systematic decline of the Mahatti): Kings often instituted festivals heterodox sects. in their names and made elaborate provision to meet the expenses. Inscriptions found Pilgrim Centres in the State in the Brihadeesvara Temple at Tanjore speak of 34 festival days every year Sacred places belonging to various religious including those of TlRUKKADIYAM, TIRU beliefs are found in Tamilnadu, and their KARTHIGAI and SANKARANTI. Rajaraja antiquity in most cases can be traced back Chola I is given the title Pandita Chola for to the medieval times. Let us take the Hindu having arranged the various affairs of this temple, first. These temples were public temple with marked clarity. institutions representing the collective energy of the state, rather than monuments for any king’s personal glorification. Devotional hymns sung by Alvars and Nayanmars speak of several

306 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA TWO LITTLE KNOWN is said to have been built by one Ketti Mudali, whereas Venkatachalapathy Temple TEMPLES at Krishapuram is said to have been constructed by Mayilerum Perumal Mudaliar and Daiva Chillai Mudaliar. The former Kailasanatha Temple at Thara temple must belong to Pallava School. The Mangalam (Salem Dt) and latter belongs to Naik School. It is not easy Venkatachalapathi Temple, Krishnapuram (Tirunelveli Dt) to fix the age of these two temples. It is a M. A. MURUGESAN, M.A., B.L. matter for the archaeologists and historians to decide the point. The most captivating feature of the temple at Thara Mangalam Thara Mangalam is a village 15 K.M. from is its splendour and luxury, whereas the Omalur, which is on the trunk road from temple at Krishnapuram abounds in details Vellore to Salem. It is too big for a village and narrations. and too small for a town. Krishnapuram is The stone “Yalis” are the first and foremost on the Tirunelveli- Tiruchendur road and features in Kailasa Nathar temple at Thara is about 15 K.M. from Tirunelveli. It is a Mangalam. We see stone “Yalis” at the top very small village and gives almost a of several gigantic stone-pillars, with their deserted appearance. Both these places mouths wide open. In idle the mouths we can be reached by road only. see the rolling stone balls; in some there There is a traditional saying in Tamil, which are single stone balls, in some there are means that the stone works in the temples two stone balls and in some there are even at Thara Mangalam and another temple at three. The stone balls roll on the tongue Thadi Kombu (which is also very famous of the “Yalis”. Where there are two balls, for its architectural beauty) are far beyond they roll inside the mouth and serve as any criticism even by the highest skilled two bulging eye-balls; where there are artisans. Both these temples are very three the third just rolls on the tongue. It famous for their archaeological and passes one’s comprehension how these balls architectural importance. Every piece of were carved out to such perfection and work is a story or a poem by itself. The made to roll inside the mouths of the figures words in any language can hardly bring falling out. In order to clear any doubt from out their beauty. Kailasa Nathar Temple at the minds of the visitors that some balls Thara Mangalam is comparatively bigger could have been put into the mouths of than Venkatachalapathy Temple at the “Yalis”, the artisans have indicated Krishnapuram. The former is a Siva Temple, even the process of making these balls. In while the latter is a Vishnu Temple. Both some pillars, the process is shown in these temples are built with hard granite stages. stones. But the stones appear to have Near the entrance, in the first prakaram, yielded to the skill of the artisan marc like seven full pieces of stones are placed in a plastic medium than as hard flint. such a way as to make a full temple with a Kailasanathar Temple at Thara Mangalam gopuram. The stones are so selected and 307 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA arranged as to give the full shape of a hands, etc. It is a matter to be seen and temple with a gopuram. The Raja Gopuram enjoyed and very difficult to describe in is constructed in the shape of a temple words. In another place, a group of parrots car. There is a stone piece in the Raja are sitting in rows on several lotus flowers. Gopuram, copper in colour, completely Thus I can go on describing the figures different from the other stones used in one after another without end. I can boldly temple. Even on a very hot day of summer, say that such a perfection in stone work it is cold and soothing to feel. It does not is not seen in any other temple in South radiate any heat. It is a matter for the India. research scholars to find out how these There is a small Amman temple stones are not getting hot or radiate any near the main temple. In front of the Kali heat. It is also not known where such Amman temple, there is an octagonal- stones are available. shaped tank. The parapet around this tank Many other pieces of architectural beauties is so constructed as to form a circular ring are found all over the prakarams of this and that if a small stone piece is struck temple. At one place, a beautiful with force, it goes on circulating close to “Rishipatni” with a very modern hair-do is the wall till its velocity is exhausted. There feeding her parrot. The parrot is actually is a small secret chamber wherein there is picking the fruit in the hands of the a secret passage leading to a distant Rishipathni, with its beak. Every part of place. Till now it is a mystery and no one the parrot and the Rishi-pathni, is carved has found out where it leads. The whole out to perfection. The grace of the carving conception and theme of this temple is arrests the eyes of the visitors. The other really marvellous. Very little is known of its usual pieces like Rathi, Manmathan, etc. architectural excellence to the outside found in other temples are also found in world. I hope a time will come when the this temple, but with a marked distinction. archaeologists and research scholars would At one place, the fight between Vali and throng to this place to study and unravel Sugriva is chiselled out. At a distance, Sri the mystery surrounding this temple. Rama is standing behind a tree, to take an It is also worthy to know that this place is aim at Vali. The pieces are so arranged very close to another famous place known and carved out that from the place where as Kanjanmalai, where many Siddhas are Sri Rama stands, Vali is visible, but from said to be present. Whether the Siddhas the place where Vali stands, Sri Rama is are there or not, there is a Siddheswara not visible. at the foot of the hills showering His In one of the Sannidhis there is a stone blessings on all the visitors. This small hill roof where we see a group stick dance possesses perennial springs with medicinal (Kolatam) of the girls. Several girls are value. It is also a wonder how these springs standing in different rows, almost in all preserve their purity despite pollution. The conceivable poses, to play the game - some Salem Iron and Steel Plant Project is taking standing straight, some bending, some shape near this hill. turning, some sitting, some raising their Coming to the other temple (Sri

308 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Venkatachalapathy temple) at Nayanmars and Saivite Krishnapuram in Tirunelveli district, the entire treasure of art is found in two Centres mantapams. The first mantapam is known of Pilgrimage as Kalyana Mantapam and the other is N. MURUGESA MUDALIAR Aranga Mantapam. In the Kalyana Mantapam there are six wonderful pillars. I Each one narrates a complete story. In HE spiritual Ministry of Tamil Saints one of the pillars an is dancing. In consisted in going around the another pillar a gypsy (Kuratti ) is carrying country and singing the praises of away a young prince on her shoulders while T the Lord in the Company of the followers the queen is trying to wean away the of the faith. This was very natural. They prince. The king on his horse comes in firmly established the Agamic way of search of his son and the horse tramples worship as the path of Jnana and Mukti. It on a warrior. The queen consults another was in opposition to the Godless ritualism gypsy to know whether her son would of the Mimamsakas and the heterodoxy of return and the gypsy reads the palm of the Bauddhas. Vedic religion faced a crisis the queen and replies that he would not and it remained ill-defined not-withstanding and the queen’s fate is sealed. On the other the magnificent Truths of its Jnana Pada. pillars too there are similar stories depicted. There have been too many Gods, too much Coming to the Arangapatnam, it is a big of meaningless ritualism, too much of one, which should have served as an priest-craft and too many divisions of the auditorium for dancing and music purposes. people. There was no common altar for There are 14 pillars, 7 on the southern side worship or initiation, no common bond and 7 on the northern side. In the 4th and between brothers of the same faith and the 6th pillars, big Yalies are carved out. no consciousness of the manifest grace of In three other pillars wonderful figures are the Supreme God in things great and small. chiselled out. Among these, the most Even the Upanishads did not speak of the impressive one is Veerabhadrar. He is awe- transcendence and immanence of Brahman striking with a frightening face and in one voice. The teachers of religion were protruding canine teeth. Lengthy engaged in rituals for the King or at best in moustache, side-burns extending upto the disputations over religious texts. The crude chins, broad nose, broad chest are some criterion for anyone to call himself an a of the main features of Veerabhadrar. Added thika was only to accept the so-called to these, he is wearing a garland woven samskaras or the amorphous varnasrama. with skulls. Every part of the body of this It was a time of de-generation, an age of figure tells that the shilpy who chiselled superstition, an era of disbelief. It was an them out should have been an excellent all-round phenomenon. Jainism and student of anatomy and physiology as well. Buddhism too were no more exalted and they too had de-generated. There were

309 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA no Rishis or Munis on the scene. The fetishes who came on the scene now, were called of Yagas and Yajnas were the only features Samayacharyas. They are Saint of Hinduism and a morbid social system Sambandar, Saint Appar, Saint Sundara which divided and sub-divided people as Murthy and Saint Manickavachagar. The the decree of Karma or of Divine justice lives of the first three and their itineraries lost the spirit of religion. were sung by Saint Sekkilar (XIII century), II the hagiologist, in his Periya Puranam and Spiritual re-generation had to clear two of the last by Katavul-Mamunivar (XVI obstacles, to fight the heterodox religions century) in Thiruvathvuradigal Puranam. and purify the Orthodox. Both the Vedas Sekkilar speaks of the god-men sung by and Agamas are the word of God. Both him as those who spurned Mukti for had Karma (or Kriya) pada and Jnana pada themselves but spent their lives in loving as guide lines for the followers of the faith. worship, so that the world may be elevated. But there was a large difference. The The fore-most among them is Saint Agamas were definitely monothestic. They Sambandar, the boy Saint, whose divinity regarded the world as real and they was celebrated by Adi Sankara in ordained specific rules for worship which Soundarya Lahari. Of him Sekkilar pointedly were minimum, and above all they speaks as the one who was born to postulated the Grace of God as the be-all resuscitate the Vedic faith in order to make and end-all of existence to free oneself the Saiva way shine, so that mankind may from samsara and thus placed a strong continue to progress. The lives of all the emphasis on Bhakti. The epi-centres for Saints were lived only to establish the Truth the new wave of the Agamas to sweep and they went about from place to place the country were Kasi in the North and visiting many shrines in the company of the land to the South of the Vindhyas. But devotees, called in Tamil “Adiyars” or the coming defeat of the degenerating “Thondars”, and sang the praises of Siva. Buddhism and Jainism was instrumental only There were many miracles in their lives, in the South, both on the Metaphysical but they were not the important fact, but front and the Theological front. In this, their hymns sung in a language of the southern Saivism and Vaishnavism played people which spoke of the love of God as a great part. the only thing to be established on earth. III These four Acharyas are usually spoken of It was at this period of time (6th to 8th as having typified the four-fold path to centuries A.D.) that there were born here reach God, viz., Charya, Kriya, Yoga and a galaxy of Saints who were not content Jnana. These have very special with their self-salvation but rose to be connotations and the first two particularly dynamic teachers to lead the people not are related to bodily and sacramental by mystifying religion or multiplying un- services in worship. Thus the temples essentials. There were doubtless Saivite became the focal points for the Saints before the period known to history interpretation of faith in the most accessible apart from legends and myths but the four, and appealing of all forms of spiritual

310 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA discipline and endeavour. V IV Thus the temples became the centres for Saivism conceived of God ‘as Rupa, Arupa congregational worship. The three aspects and Rupaarupa. of the temple are (1) Murthi (2) Sthala The symbol of Siva is the last, represented and (3) Tirtha i.e. (1) the particular aspect by the Linga. In the Siva Maha Purana the of God remembered in association (2) the Lord affirmed that it is most meritorious particular sacredness of the place like the for one to worship him as a Linga. The birth-place of an Adiyar and (3) the sacred attribute of a Saivite is to worship the Linga river or tank. Murthi is the most important wearing Bhasma and Rudraksha and for the concentration on the Murthiman uttering his sacred “Pancaksara-nama”, and the other two are adjuncts. Going to “Namasivaya”. Anyone who worshipped the the temple or bathing in some sacred water Linga with water and leaves or flowers and is not enjoined in Saivism as a mere offered himself to the Supreme attains the prayaschitta for sins committed. These highest Jnana, which helps one to be not Sthalas are also later associated with some troubled by the fetters of , Karma tree called Sthala Vriksha. and Maya (viz. the ego, the fruits of action The rules for the formation of the temple and the bond of the world of ) and and installation of the various deities to attain Mukti or union with God in this installed were laid down in Agamas and in very life. The appeal was thus clear and the subsidiary Silapa-Sastras. Saiva not confusing. Saint Sambandar’s life is Theology has been stated in such clearness spoken of as the establishment of the glory in the Agamas themselves that it is known of tiruneeru, as the sign of God’s love. to everyone that one should do Atmartha There is an old text which says that without Puja regarding oneself as the Koil (or the these teachers, this Truth would have been abode) of God, and his “unmai” (or extinguished. consciousness) as God Himself. It is In Madurai, Sambandar vanquished the enjoined that the worship at the temples Jainas and brought back the Pandyan King is for Parartha. There is the reason why to the Siva fold by curing him of his illness the Saints sojourned from temple to temple with Vibhuti and putting the testament of and exhorted their adherents to worship his faith to the ordeals of fire and water. the Lord wherever He is enshrined. The sacred text survived and the whole of VI Pandya Nadu was rescued from the The temples sung by the four darkness of heterodoxy. Other Nayanrnars Samayacharyas in their hymns are called also went about the country singing hymns, “Padal-Petra-Sthalas”. Though they are and of these the woman-saint Karaikkal more consecrated by the fact, other Ammaiyar was the foremost and earliest. temples are not of less merit, provided they The hymns of the Nayanmars constitute a are consecrated according to the Agamas. grand Liturgy unmatched in their beauty (There is the story of the Saint who and sublimity. worshipped a post to which the calf is tied as the Linga, and attained salvation. These

311 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA cases are exceptional for the highly and enters into communication with the evolved souls and not the rule). Even the Lord. Then in circumambulating the sanctum Jivan Muktas while they continue to live in sanctorum he meditates on the various the world are enjoined to look upon the acts of Grace of the Lord. Then coming Thirukkoil or Alaya as Siva Himself. The 12th before the presence of the supreme Surra of Siva Jnana Bodham of Saint (Sukshma Linga) he gives himself up in love Manicka Deva enjoins one to worship the to Him, and becomes one with Him. sacred habit of Siva’s devotees and the VIII shrines of Siva, regarding them as the Apart from this meditative aspect of temple Supreme Lord Himself. worship, the adherents of the faith are VII enjoined to do bodily service of the temple Thus one of the fundamental doctrines of like cleaning the temple, lighting, providing Saivism is to regard Siva’s symbol enshrined flowers, etc. These are all acts described in temples and Siva’s devotees as Siva as Siva-Punya of Pati-Punya, in Himself and to worship them in love. The contradistinction from acts like charity to Nishkala is seen in the shrines as Sakala. the poor, building chatrams, all of which The visible form of the Linga is like the are called Pasu-Punya. Thus one, whether spark of fire from the wood, one with it he is a house-holder or ascetic, is not but also different. Thus the Swarupa is required to get away from the world of worshipped through the tatastha. Thus in men into forests or mountains for the Saiva concept the temple is not merely meditation. Siva-Puja is itself looked upon a place of worship and rituals but the as “tavam” (or tapas). If Saivites go on representation of a highly metaphysical pilgrimage to various other temples of Siva concept of God and the only way of realising wherever they are, it is more to meditate oneness (ananyatva) with Him is through on the special graces of Siva associated Love and worship. with those places and on the lives and The very plan of the temple is symbolic of sources of the Lord’s servants who hallowed this. At the entrance is the Gopuram which the place. It is to set an example in this by the representation on them symbolises respect that the Samayacharyas visited the prapancha which is seen (animate and the shrines of Siva, far and near, and inanimate, devas and men, etc.). It is the mingled with kindred souls in those places. Sthula-Linga. Crossing the entrance one The temples also became the centres not approaches the Bali-Pitha, where one has only for the spiritual life of the people, but to cast away all impurities and make a also for their aesthetic and cultural life like mental sacrifice. There one approaches the art sculpture, music, dance, etc. Thus a Dvajasthamba, where one raises his visit to these temples is a source of spiritual consciousness to the most elevated level peace and aesthetic enjoyment. More than possible. Then he approaches the Nandi, these, it brings one into the company of which looks steadfastly at the Lord and is good souls who flock to those temples. in eternal union with Him. He too becomes one-pointed in his thought,

312 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA IX Thirukkalu-kunram, etc. The Nayanmars sang Hymns in praise of Nadu Nadu: (22 in number) which the Lord in the various shrines. They also includes Tiruvannamalai, Thiruppadurai held that even to remember or utter the Puliyur, Thiruvennai Nallur, Thirumudhu names of the places or names of the deities Kunram, Thirunavalur, Thiruvathegai is meritorious. So they sang Hymns called Veerattanam, Tirutturaiyur, etc. Kshetra Kovais mentioning the names of Chota Nadu : I (63 in number north of all the sacred places. Sambandar, Appar Kaveri) Thirukoil (Chidambaram), and Sundaramurthi have each sung these Tiruppullirukku-Velur (Vaidiswaran Koil), garlands of names and learned men have Sirkali, Tiruppaa-nandal, , filled them as “Koyiltiram” (in Tamil) meaning Thiruvanaikkaval, etc. the “Praise of the Lord’s abodes.” Chola Nadu: II (160 in number south of Manickavachagar has mentioned the names the Kaveri). Tiruchirappalli, Tiruvalam Chuli, of many sacred places in his “Kirtitiruahaval” Thirukkudanthai, Thirunageswaram, forming part of his Tiruvachagam. Later Thiruvavaduthurai, Thiruvazhunthur, Thiru- Tamil Saints called “Tiru-isai-p-pa-singers” (Mayuram), Thirukkadavur, have also sung of many sacred places. Thirutharumapuram (Dharmapuram), Thiru- X nallaru, Thiruvizhimizhalai, Thiruppugalur, The shrines consecrated by the Tamil Saints Thiruehchangattangundi, Thirunagai- are as previously mentioned called “Padal karonam, , Thiruvalivalam, Petra-Sthalas “. They are not confined only Thirukkolili, Thiruvairnur, Thirumarai- to Tamil Nadu but also beyond its limits. kkadu(Vedaranyam), Thirupperundurai, etc. Besides those for which hymns or “Patha- Pandya Nadu : (14 in number) which karns” (dyad of verses) as they are called, includes Thirupputhur, Thirupparangiri, are specially dedicated, many “Sthalas” are Thiruvalavai (Madurai) , Thiru Rameswaram alluded to it in their own other hymns. Some (Rameswaram ), Thiru-uttarakosa Mangai, are sacred as Saiva sacred places even Thirunelveli, Thirukkutralam, etc. though there are no special hymns. The Kongu Nadu: (7 in number) Thirukanivar Padal- Petra-Sthalas are specially (Karu ) , ThiruppandiKodumudi, Thirunava meritorious, as they are special liturgies (Bhava), Thiruppukkoliyur (Avinasi). sung by the Nayanmars, which a devotee Malai Nadu : (Malabar) (3 in number). can sing or meditate upon. The Thiruvanchaikkalam, Suchindram, Kanya classification of these Kshetras are as Kumari. follows: Tuluva Nadu : (1 in number) Thiru Nadu: (31 in number) which eludes Gokarnam. Kailas, Kedar, Omkar, Somnath, Sri Saila, lzha Nadu: (Ceylon) (2 in number) etc. Thirukkonamalai and Thirukkatheswaram. Tondai Nadu : (32 in number) whieh XI includes Kalahasti, Tiruvalankadu, Tiru- Some of these Sthalas are celebrated in Kachi-ekambam, Thiru Mullaivayil, other respects also, as representing the Tiruvotiyur, Thiru Mayilai, Thiruvanmiyur, pancha-bhutas, ashta murthas, etc.

313 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA (I) Pancha Bhuta Sthalas are: (V) Saptha Sthana Sthalas: (7 places (1) Prithivi - Kancheepuram or Tiruvarur. meritorious for sacred bath) (2) Apaha - Thiruvanaikkaval. (1) Thiruvaiyaru. (3) Agni - Thiruvannamalai. (2) Thiruppazhanam. (4) Vayu - Thirukkalahasti. (3) Thiruchchotrutturai. (5) Akasa - Chidambaram. (4) Thiruvadikkudi. (II) Pancha Sabhas:(Dance halls of Siva): (5) Thirukkantiyur. (1) Ratna Sabhai - Thiruvalankadu. (6) Thiruppunturutti. (2) Kanaka Sabha - Chidambararn. (7) Thiruneithanam. (3) Rajatha Sabha - Madurai, (4) Tamra Sabha - Tirunelveli. (VI) Places considered as of equal merit to (5) Chitra Sabha - Tirukkutralam. Kasi : (III) Ashta attahasa Sthalas: (8 acts of (1) Thiruvankadu. puissance of Siva) (2) Thiruvaiyaru. (1) Thirukanduyur - Brahma beheaded. (3) Thirumayladuturai. (2) Thirukkovalur - Antahasura killed. (4) Thiruvitaimarudur. (3) Thiruvathigai - Tripura burnt. (5) Thiruchadaikkadu. (4) Thiruppariyalur - Daksha Beheaded. (6) Thiruvanchiyarn. (5) Thiruvir-kudi - Jalantra quelled. (7) Thiru-mudu-kunram. (6) Vazhuvrur - Elephant flayed. (7) Thirukkadavur - Yama restrained. (VII) Places which confer Mukti : (8) Thirukkurukkai - Manmatha was burnt. (1) Thiruvarur - by being born there. (IV) Saptha vitanka Sthalas: (7 places of (2) Kanchipuram - by residence there. beautiful aspects of Siva seen usually as (3) Thiruvannamalai - by mere thinking of Thyagaraja) the place. (1) Thiruvarur - Veedhi vitankar sabha (4) Thirukudukunram - by dying there. dance. (2) - aga vitankar unrnatta (VIII) Places considered as Bhuloka Kailasa: dance. (1) Thirukkalahasti. (3) Thirunagai-k-karonam - Sudara vi (2) Thiruchchirappalli. tankar Paravara tharanga dance. (3) Thirukonamalai. (4) Thirukkarayil - Adhi vitankar kukkuta dance. IX. There are “Sthalas” sacred specially (5) Thirukkolili - A vani vitankar Brunga for (i) Devi, (ii) Ganapathi and (iii ) Muruga. dance. (6) Thiruvaimur - eela vitankar Kamala X. There are some “Sthalas” which are dance. Siva-Vishnu complexes. (Vishnu shines (7) Thirumaraikkadu - Bhuvani vitankar inside the Siva temple as the principal Hasta padha dance. deity), like Rameswaram, Kanchi, , etc. In most temples there will be sculpture in stone or images in bronze representing

314 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA some of the 28 Murthis of Siva, like of the Vedas. There is a separate hall in Chandrasekharar, Kalyana , the big temples for chanting these hymns. Bikshitangar, etc. There will always be They are also sung by groups Goshtis in Somaskanda, Siva and Uma with child processions of the deities. The ymns are Skanda, which represent Satchidananda set to pattu (raga) and Kattalai assonance aspect of Siva. meanings). If the hymns are sung with a XII knowledge of their meaning, they have It is not possible, for want of space, in a sublime effect both on the singer and the limited article to describe the beauties of hearers, and they will establish an intimate even the most important temples of Siva, and loving relationship with the Lord. their historic evolution, their architectural beauty, their iconographic splendour, the XIII legends, Myths and even real events The hymns sung by Sambandar, Appar and connected with them, their principal Sundara Murthy (386, 311, 100 festivals, etc. which would interest a respectively) are called Devaram. Of the pilgrim, devotee or student of ancient total of 797,748 are Sthalapadikams i.e., monuments. Unfortunately, Sthala puranas pertaining to specific shrines and the rest connected with these places would be are general hymns. St. Manickavachagar’s purely mythological accounts; tourist ides hymns total 51 and the number of stanzas would give information about superficial fact total 658. Such a large body of litany is of interest like distance from Railway found nowhere else in religious literature stations, etc., archaeological and except in the Nalayira Divya Prabandhams epigraphical ports only about the history of Vaishnava Azhwars. of the evolution of the temples, etc., and The greatest spiritual legacy of Saivism the inscriptions on the walls and the special (and of Vaishnavism) is the large number features of the sculptures and icons of the of magnificent temples and the holy temples. There is no single book which will literature connected with them. The afford all these information. Even if they worship in these shrines are according to give some of these particulars, they may Agamas, and later manuals called omit the beautiful hymns sung by the Paddhatis. The hymns are sung even today Samayacharyas and other saints these in these temples as part of the worship. place, which are the most important. Some Visit to these holy shrines is meritorious. orthodox “Sthala-Manjaris” would elude Saint Appar has sung “Verily this human hymns, but they would not contain English birth is to be desired to see the lovely translations of them so as to bring out the form of Dancing Siva in Tillai”. That sums lofty thoughts contained in them. up the joy of visiting these temples. These Tamil hymns are sung as part of the ritual at Shodasopachara at the two, three, four or six services in the daily Puja in the temples. These chants are considered as equal in authority and merit to the chanting

315 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA They bear the Imprint of around the advent of Buddha and the incidents of his life, suggesting the play of the Lotus Feet the supernatural and the miraculous. These of Lord Buddha miracles add charm to the greatness of a soul that loved humanity and suffered and sacrificed for the relief of all those who were suffering and needed succour. Apart T is a characteristic of India that every from miracles, there is also a historical great and outstanding thought or account. doctrine has somewhere or other a I About the sixth century B,C., was born place devoted to its propagation and Siddhartha to Mayadevi and Suddhodana, tradition. Each myth, epic or historical King and Queen of Kapilavastu, a state at event is associated with places that the foot of the Himalayas. The handsome survived through generations and have little prince who was later to become a retained the fragrance of their pristine great world-teacher setting the pattern for association. While the myths and epics renunciation and service and transforming associate numerous temple cities with gods the religious outlook of the people of India, and goddesses and make them pilgrim was born at Lumbini, a village near centres of sanctity, historical events like Kapilavastu, around the year 566 B.C. The the birth and visits of great saints leave a sages prophesied that the babe would few others fragrant with the memory of become the conqueror of the world, or a the association with those great souls. Buddha - the emperor of the spiritual world. Cities where great philosophers, sages and The father, King Suddhodana, brought up saints have been born, or lived, become the prince in an atmosphere of luxury, where holy places because of their association no mortal suffering showed itself, in order with these great souls. Such holy places to prevent his son from becoming a monk. come to be regarded as pilgrim centres, However, Destiny decided otherwise, and where men of piety and faith visit, not for Prince Siddhartha had to move out of his the sake of any vows or for relief of any cloistered isolation and witness incidents kind from suffering, but just to set foot on of suffering through disease, death, and and breathe the atmosphere of the holy old age that are the lot of every human land that begot such noble children. It gives being. He realised the emptiness of wordly them a feeling of soul-upliftment to stand pleasures and was profoundly concerned on that holy earth looking at the about finding a way out of the sorrow- monuments, recalling those sublime lives. ridden existence. Determined to discover Of the holy places revered thus are the the cause of it all, he sat and meditated, cities that have been blessed by the birth deeply and for long. And when he emerged and visits of Sakya Muni - Gautama the from the depths of his meditation, he had Buddha, whose enlightenment brought the made up his mind to renounce life and go light of wisdom not only to India but to out in quest of a solution to the most humanity as a whole. Legends have grown fundamental of human problems. For his

316 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA part, lie was firm in his resolution to Kusinagara, Modern Kasia in the Gorakhpur abandon all the delights, that a princely district. life of luxury offered him. Accordingly, on By the followers of Buddhism and also by that night of destiny in his twenty-ninth those of other religions who revere this year, leaving his young wife and little son great sage, eight places are held sacred, behind, Siddhartha marched out of his royal and to these spots a pilgrimage is home and wandered away into the wide undertaken. The first four of these eight world. With but one ‘aim ruling the whole places are the places where the four of his mind and heart, he went from place important events of Buddha’s life took to place as a homeless ascetic, seeking place, viz., the Birth at Lumbini, attainment light at every turn and asking for instruction of Supreme knowledge at Bodhgaya, the from every religious teacher. At Uruvila, first proclamation of the Law at the Deer near Gaya, be practised the most rigid Park at lsipatana (Saranath) and the austerities, subjecting his body to severe Mahaparinirvana or the attainment of the tests, - only to realise that these helped Mahasamadhi at Kusinagara. The other four in no way to achieve his goal. He moved places of veneration are the places, where away and wandered again; and at Buddha is said to have performed the four Niranjana, be took his seat under a pipal miracles. tree after a bath and fell into deep meditation. And there, under that Pipal tree Lumbini he did succeed in achieving his aim. Light dawned on him. Truth flashed illumining his Lumbini, where the Blessed one was born mind and the world with the radiance of a comes foremost in the line of sacred places celestial light. That was the great moment that are sanctified by their association with of the Bodhi. And the tree under which he the Buddha. Lumbinigrama, situated twelve sat at the hour of the great awakening miles from Kapilavastu, is on the path from becoming the Bodhi tree. Thereafter he Kapilavastu to Devadaha, Queen Maya’s came to be known as Buddha, the parental town. Desiring to see her parents Englightened One, Tathagata (the one that attained Truth) and Sakyamuni (the sage of the Sakya clan), He proceeded from Niranjana to Isipatana () near Benares, where he shared the fruit of his penance with the five monks who were his followers during his earlier wanderings. For full forty-five years be wandered spreading his gospel to one and all, till at last, at the age of eighty be attained his Nirvana at

317 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Queen Maya set out to Devadaha during where Siddhartha was born. A shrine stands the last stages of her pregnancy, but was nearby, with a carving describing the forced to stop in the grove at Lumbini on nativity of the scene. The place, with its the way owing to the imminence of the imperishable sanctity, stands there to this event that was to take place. There, under day, attracting. numerous pilgrims. The the cool shade of a Sala tree, which bent Chinese pilgrims visited this place in the its branches to envelope her in its cool, bygone days and have left an account of fragrant shade, she stood, holding on to the many establishments that flourished one of the branches, and delivered a here. Many of these lay buried under the beautiful and divine looking baby, in earth as the ruins of a once glorious standing position. The child was received civilization. But the fragrance of the sacred by the Gods, including the guardians of association, the memory of the birth of the quarters and from their hands by men. the Blessed one, lingers fresh in the air From Lumbini, the boy was brought to and fills the atmosphere, making Lumbini a Kapilavastu, where the sages studied the place of glory and sanctity. thirty-two auspicious marks on his body and his horoscope, and declared that he Bodhgaya : The Dawn of Wisdom and would either become the conqueror of the Light upon ‘the world’ world or a Buddha, an enlightened sage. Lumbini has been identified with This site of Samma Sambuddh is Uruvila Rummindevi, about one mile north of near Gaya. The light of wisdom illumined Paderia and two miles north of Bhagwanpur the doubt-shadowed mind of Siddhartha in the Nepalese Tahsil of that name, which and from there it emanated, spreading far is situated to the north of the Basti district and wide. Because of this sacred of Uttar Pradesh. association, Gaya came to be known as Lying cradled in the beauteous arms of Buddha Gaya or Bodh Gaya, and became nature, at the foot of the Himalayan an important place of pilgrimage and a place terrace, Lumbini is a picturesque spot of great sanctity for the Buddhists. The where the pilgrim feels thrilled as he realises place was known as Sambodhi in ancient that he is standing on the holy soil that days, as may be seen from the inscriptions received the Blessed One. Emperor of Ashoka. To the Buddhists, the place is visited this place, after the Kalinga war, sacred as Mahabodhi. he felt that stained with the blood of the Bodh Gaya is considered to be the cradle lakhs that died on his account, he could of Buddhism on account of this event in be washed and purified only on this soil, the life of Buddha. For the devout Buddhist which received the most compassionate no place is of greater sanctity or of souls. Here stands the monolithic pillar importance. The holy spot of erected by that emperor, commemorating enlightenment, the sacred Tree and the his visit. Vajrasana or the diamond seat on which The inscription on the pillar shows that it Buddha sat and meditated are all preserved is erected exactly on that sacred spot with reverence and loving care and Bodh

318 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Gaya attracts pilgrims from far and near, the Glory of the Buddha to the world. The not only from India but also from countries porch that forms the entrance to the outside India. Holy shrines and sacred temple is on the eastern side and appears monuments were erected all around the to be a later addition. Each of the four sacred spot and the Chinese Pilgrim Hieun sides of the tower present several tiers Tsang gives a vivid account of his visit to and niches, while the front face has a tall them and of the splendour with which the lancet opening for the admission of light city flourished in those days. The present into the sanctum. From the base of the Bodhi tree is an offspring of the original tower rises a turret with four corners, each tree and is preserved with great care. The of which has a miniature replica of the main present shrine, the imposing Mahabodhi spire. Rising to an imposing height, standing temple, was in ruins, and has been in glorious beauty against the serene renovated at considerable expense. background of the blue sky, this majestic Ashoka is believed to have erected the shrine dominates the landscape for miles great shrine on the holy spot of around and attracts pilgrims from all corners enlightenment and it is perhaps this shrine of the world. which is frequently represented in early The beautiful gilded image of the Buddha Buddhist art. No remains of the shrine in the shrine, is in the earth-touching erected by Ashoka have survived and the attitude which signifies enlightenment. On stately structure that is now seen is a the northern side of the temple is a narrow later-day construction. The temple has a elevated platform known as the Chankama. ballustrated galley surrounding the Bodhi Described as the jewel shrine, this spot is tree, which perhaps had originally been a supposed to be the place where the Buddha, carving of wood now translated into stone. after attaining enlightenment, walked to The temple has been renovated and and fro and in deep meditation for a week. restored so many times that it is difficult There are sculptured ornaments to determine what its original plan or form representing the miraculous blossoms, was. From the description of Hiuen Tsang, which are supposed to have sprung up it appears however that the temple bearing under His feet as He walked about in its present form and size had already meditation. On the western side of the existed in the 7th century B.C. The present temple stands the Bodhi tree, with a red shrine at Bodh Gaya is a prototype of the sandstone underneath it representing the in Burma. Vajrasana. The original Mahabodhi temple, The Mahabodhi temple at Bodh Gaya sketched in the Buddhist relics is shown consists of a pyramidal tower surmounted enclosing the entire area of the holy spot, by a stupa, complete with the ‘harmika’ together with the Bodhi tree. The present with a fluted amalawa-like lower member shrine, with its lofty tower, necessitated and with angle at the corners in the process of construction its shifting demarcating the different stages in the to the east of the holy spot and hence ascent of the tower. It stands at an they are now placed at the back of the imposing height of 165 feet, proclaiming temple.

319 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Among the innumerable remains of the the act of turning the wheel of the law earlier constructions, the most important (Dhamma Chakrapravartana) and a stupa ones, are the stone parts of a railing, which and a stone-pillar erected by Ashoka. appears to be a part of the original shrine. Many shrines and stupas have been added These railings represent two periods of later, along with renovation of the earlier construction, the earlier being the second ones. The latest of these constructions is century B.C. and the later the Gupta period. the temple of the Wheel of Law erected Very near the Mahabodhi shrine are the by Umaradevi, one of the Queens of King seven sacred sites, dear to the devotees Govinlachandra of Kanauj. Soon after its being identified with those where the Lord construction the place was destroyed, is said to have passed the seven tranquil perhaps by the armies of Ghori. weeks in the blissful state of his Such damages used to be repaired Buddhahood. immediately by pious devotees, but with the fall of Buddhism in India, the shrines Saranath - The Land Mark in the and establishments came to be neglected, History of Religion and what remain to-day are the ruins of an erstwhile glory of a great religion. If Lumbini is the birth place of Buddha, As one approaches the site from Benares, Saranath. (lsipatana) is the birth place of the first land-mark to attract the eye is Buddhism, for it was here he first spoke the hankhandi, a lofty mound of brickwork out his gospel, distributing the fruits of his mounted by an octagonal stupa. This is enlightenment to the spiritually hungry. It believed to be standing on the sacred spot, was here he first proclaimed the law and where Buddha on his way to Isipatana met the Eightfold Path. This incident is his five earlier companions who became the metaphorically referred to as setting the first followers of His philosophy and faith. wheel of Law into motion or Dharma The octagonal tower at the top is a later Chakraparivartana. day construction by Akbar put up in order Though very little is known historically of to The Deer Park, with its temple and the Deer Park and Isipatana, the place stupas in the centre and surrounded by acquired celebrity from the time of Asoka, monasteries, which had once been a as did several other spots. Various flourishing strong-hold of Buddhism, is a mementos and stupas have been erected sorry sight of ruins now. here by Asoka, whose remains are still to The Dhamek Stupa, rising upto a height of be seen. It was a flourishing and 150 feet, is the only definite structure that prosperous park with no less than 1500 stands amidst all the rubble and ruin. monks and nuns residing in the various The Asoka stupa, described by Hiuen Ashramas. Hiuen Tsang describes numerous Tsang, may be identified with the ruins of edifices of this place in his work and of a large brick stupa. Jagat Singh, Diwan of such edifices, the most important ones are Raja Chait Singh dismantled this stupa to a magnificent temple enshrining a life-size use its bricks in the construction of a brass image of the Buddha represented in market in Banaras in 1794. Relics exhumed

320 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA on this occasion are responsible for bringing who look upon it as the scene of the this holy place out into light again from ascetic practices and death of Sri the oblivion into which it had fallen. The Amsanatha, the eleventh Jaina Tirthankara. structure as it now stands is the result of A temple built in recent times, situated successive additions, the innermost core near the Dhamek Stupa is dedicated to belonging probably to the period of Asoka. this saint. The site of this stupa probably marks the The antiquities so far discovered at Sarnath spot where Buddha first proclaimed the law. consisting of beautiful sculptures and To the north of this stand the broken stump ornamental carvings represent Buddhist of an Asoka Pillar and to the east arc seen, Religion and cover a period of approximately the remains of a temple designed as the 1,500 years from the third century B.C. to Main Shrine, which might have been the the Twelfth century A.D. magnificent shrine described by Hiuen Saranath represents ‘a landmark in the Tsang. Around the main shrine is a paved intellectual and spiritual history of India, court with an approach from the east. Upon marking the birth of a religion that this site are found innumerable remains of succeeded in liquidating a great deal of stupas -and shrines, the remnants of pious superstition and ritualism prevalent in India benefactors. On the north and south are in those days. It continues to attract large found relics of monasteries, all of which numbers of pilgrims from all over the world, are of the same pattern, residential cells and though its monuments are in ruins the arranged in a row on the four sides of an Law that the Master proclaimed and the open quadrangle. piety he inspired still endure and the sacred Among the ruins of Saranath the most memories of the Blessed one still thrill those imposing one is the Dhamek Stupa which who stand on the spot where he stood stands majestic even in its battered state, and preached. rising to a towering height of 143 feet. A massive block, it is built of stone in the Kusinagara lower half and brick at the upper, and is of a cylindrical shape. Kusinagara, the modern Kasia in the The Mulagandhakuti Vihara erected by the Gorakhpur district, is held sacred of its Mahabhodi society ‘at Bodh Gaya houses association with the Buddha, for it was certain Buddhist relics discovered at Taxila. here that the Master, in his eighteenth The anniversary of the Vihara takes place year, passed into the great Nirvana. Under on the full-moon day of November, which the cool shade of a grove of sala trees, he draws large number of pilgrims, monks and lay, resting peacefully in the bliss of the lay devotees from all over the world. The Infinite, and recognising the approach of most important feature of the festival is the moment of Eternity, closed his eyes to the procession in which the holy relics, the the world. most authentic remains of Lord Buddha, Kusinagara thenceforward became an are taken round. important pilgrim centre, where shrines and Sarnath is also a sacred place for the Jains, monasteries sprang up and pilgrims flocked

321 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA in great numbers. But much earlier than Sravasti : The greatest of these miracles the other the shrines and monasteries here was performed at Sravasti to confound the came to be abandoned and the glorious heretic Tirthika Teachers. According to the city of the past was buried in ruins. Buddhist accounts, this starts off with a The identity of the place, however, is number of supernatural incidents, such as undeniably established when recent the sun and moon shining together in the excavations revealed inscriptions relating sky, fire and water emanating alternately to Mahaparinirvana - Chaitya. An important from the upper and lower parts of the edifice, which still remains here is the Matha Master’s body, and the Buddha’s own Kunwar Ka Kat, which enshrines the Buddha appearance in multiple representations of in recumbent posture in the state of himself. This, the great miracle is the Nirvana. The image was found in broken favourite theme of many a Buddhist work fragments and was skilfully pieced together of art. The earlier representations are and restored to its original form. There is elaborate; and the later representations also a mound, locally known as Ramabhar, are much briefer, eliminating all the minor which probably represents the great stupa episodes, and depicting only the last which stood on the holy spot where the incident showing the Buddha in the centre Blessed one was cremated, and his relics in in attitude of preaching, surrounded by were divided into eight equal parts to be small effigies all around. preserved at different sites. Sravasti was an important seat of Buddhism Though in ruins, Kusinagara nevertheless even during the days of Buddha, and it attracts vast numbers of pilgrims, who visit was here that the famous Jetavana with it with no object but to call at a holy spot its large monastery existed. A merchant full of memories of the Master having named Anathapinda is believed to have attained the Mahaparinirvana. Across the bought the garden of the prince Jeta and fields and up and down the streets and had a large monastery built there to amid the ruins, echoes the silent voice of receive the Lord who was to visit the city. the Buddha to this day and hour, and those Buddha graced him by accepting his gift, last soft-spoken words of his and that which he subsequently left for occupation message of deep compassion, which was by his numerous disciples. In later days, distinctively his own are heard whispered many Buddhist shrines and monasteries by the gentle breeze that blows around came up here and the city flourished as the devoted souls who stand in sober one of the most important centres of silence on this sacred soil. Buddhism. On the boarders of Gonda and Bahraich The cities that witnessed the miracles districts of Uttar Pradesh are the remains of Saheth Maheth with which Sravasti is Next to the sacred spots already identified. At Saheth were excavated enumerated come four more centres, - the several inscriptions referring to Jetavana spots where the master is said to have thus establishing its identity. Saheth- performed his four miracles. Maheth are two distinctly separate sites,

322 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA of which the larger one, Maheth, occupying Rajagriha and Vaisali an area of 400 acres, is identified with Sravasti city proper. Saheth, where the Rajagriha was the powerful capital of the ruins stretch over an area of 35 acres, is Kingdom of Magadha. The city was held identified with the monastery at Jetavana sacred by the Buddhists for several which was in a garden about a quarter of reasons. It was sanctified by the numerous a mile away from Sravasti. One of the visits that the master paid the city. Again earliest Stupas excavated seems to belong it was in this city that Devadatta, the to the third century and this stupa wicked cousin of the master made several contained some bone relics, probably of attempts to end the life of the Buddha. It the Master himself. Sanctified by its was here He performed the miracle of association with the lord, Sravasti flourished taming an infuriated elephant that was set as an important centre of pilgrimage for on him to end his life. Also, it was here the Buddhists for a very time and sadly that the first council (Sangiti) of the enough, fell into ruins with the fall of Buddhists was held, in the cave of Buddhism in the country. Sattapanni (Saptapurni) of the Vaibhara Sankasya : Sankasya is the site where hill. The Vinaya and the Dhamma were Buddha performed his second miracle of rehearsed in this Council and were fixed descending from the Tryastimsa (the with the assistance of Upali and Anamala. Heaven of the Thirty-three Gods), where The principal points of the creed and he went to preach His faith to His Mother discipline were thus agreed upon and the and other Gods. This miracle is believed to stability of the new religion was thus have followed soon after the Great Miracle, assured here. Rajagriha is hence held as it was the tradition of the earlier Buddhas sacred by the Buddhists, not only because to proceed to the heaven of the Thirty- of its association with the Blessed one, three Gods after performing their greatest but also because of the great part it played miracles. According to Buddhist legends the in the growth and spread of Buddhism. Lord came down by a triple ladder built by The ruins at Rajgir, in the Patna district of Visvakarma accompanied by the Gods, Bihar, are considered to be the ruins of the Brahma and Sankara, and the event is the shrines and monasteries that flourished in favourite theme of many a Buddhist carving the ancient Rajagriha. and painting. On account of these sacred Rajgir - the ancient Rajagriha (the house associations Sankasya, identified with the of kings) - was a magnificent city where modern Sankisa, or Sanisa Basantpur in Buddhism flourished, patronized by the kings Uttar Pradesh, came to be an important and the rich. A quarter of a mile behind place of pilgrimage. Shrines, stupas and the present town the hills spread out in a monasteries adorned the place in the days circle, and on their top lie the ruins of the when Buddhism flourished there. ancient city of glory. “There can be few places so old as Rajgir, about which so much is definitely known, and so much safely to be inferred. It was

323 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA about the year 590 B.C. that there came and far between, the identity of Rajagriha along the road leading into the valley is established beyond doubt, and the yonder, one whose very form was radiant association of the city with the Buddha with feeling and thought that lifted him and the history of Buddhism are sufficient above the common world into that to inspire a pilgrimage to this sacred and consciousness that makes history.” beautiful place in the hills. Rajagriha was a glorious city that was famous throughout the country and was Vaisali : Vaisali, capital of the Lichchavi known by more than one name; Girivraja Kings, witnessed the last of the four (city surrounded by hills), Vasumati miracles performed by Buddha. He is said (derived from the mystical king Vasu to have visited this city thrice and during Uparichara), Barhadrathapura (from one of these visits a band of monkeys came Brihadratha, the father of Jarasantha and to him and reverently offered a pot of founder of the Brihadratha dynasty of honey. It was also here that the second Magadha Kings), and Kusagrapura - these, Buddhist council. a little over a hundred are some of the names by which the city years after the nirvana of the Buddha took flourished in the days of yore. place. Again, it was here that the Lord The remains of the ancient city are found announced his approaching Nirvana, and a here and there. A large terrace with a group stupa is believed to have been erected by of cells at the back in a semi-circular form the citizens of Vaisali over part of the relics of the rock on the northern bend in the of the Lord’s body. Vaibhara hill is identified with the site of Being the birthplace of Mahavira, Vaisali is the first council. On the eastern slope of also equally important to the Jains. The the Vaibhara hill is a structure locally known city of Vaisali is identified with the ruins of as Jarasantha Ki Baithak, with irregular cells Raj Bisal-Ka-Garh at Basarh and the at the sides. This structure has been adjoining regions. The pilgrims, Fa-hien and identified with the residence of Pippala, Hiuen Tsang visited Vaisali. They have mentioned in some of the Buddhist texts. described it as a glorious city with so many Some Pali texts describes the Pippala cave sacred shrines and monuments that it would as the residence of Mahakasyapa, the be impossible to attempt to give a detailed organiser of the first council. On the description of all of them. southern side of the Vaibhara is the famous There is a 22 feet tall monolithic pillar of cave known as Sane Bhandar. The interior highly polished sandstone surmounted by of this cave is polished, not carved. In it a bell shaped capital, that supports a lion stand the remains of a stupa that can be on a square abacus, at Kolhna, two miles said be the earliest ever found, “ Here to the north-west of Raja Bisal-Ka-Garh, Buddha might have rested or meditated or This can be identified with one of the taught.” Ashoka pillars near Vaisali mentioned by Rajagriha was also an active centre of Hiuen Tsang. Nearby, to the south is a small Jainism in the ancient times, as it now is. tank called “Ramkund,” believed to be the In spite of the Buddhist relics being few “Markata Hrada,” the one dug out by a

324 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA band of monkeys for Buddha. To the north- with exquisite sculptures and paintings that west of this is a ruined mound, about 15 are the unwritten record of the history of feet high and sixty-five feet in diameter at Buddhist Art stretching over a period of the base, believed to be the relic of the 800 years. No ancient remains in India Ashoka Pillar (stupa) mentioned by Hiuen exhibit such excellent combination of Tsang. On the summit of this stands a small architecture, sculpture and painting. The temple of recent origin, enshrining a stupendous caves of Ellora are carved in medieval Buddha. the scarp of a rocky plateau. It is to this city, they say, “He came, in a passion of pity a veritable storm of Caves of Ellora compassion had broken loose within him.” “ Across these fields and up and down While the caves of Ajanta record the these streets, now ruined, or within the history of Buddhist Art and Religion the massive cathedral cave of Sone Bhandar, caves of Ellora present remarkable there echo to this hour the immortal memorials of three great Religions, reverberations of Buddha’s voice.” Buddhism, Hinduism and Jainism. The famous Kailasa temple, a vast, carved Ajanta and Ellora monolith Linga, with its colossal size, massive pillars, columnades, galleries and Like the curves and columns of some great beautifully painted ceilings, huge sculptures organ runs the line of stone arches and and intricate ornamentation are chiselled columnades along the hill-side that faces out of the rock in its original state and sunrise in the glen of Ajantha. Twenty-six situated into a vertical structure, is a caves there are in all, making one long level marvel in the world of Art. line, over-hung by the rounded ridge of Dating from the later centuries of pre- dark blue stone that was undoubtedly Christian era the caves of Ajanta chipped into shape and bareness long, long constitute a complete record of monuments ago to emphasize that balanced uniformity of this type. Everywhere even on the which gives this ancient abbey so much of votive Chaitya, appear figures of Buddha, its solemnity and beauty. the worshipful one standing or seated, In the state of Hyderabad, in a narrow superbly carved in bold relief. gorge, amidst the breath-taking beauty of nature’s cascading glory, lie the marvellous Imperishable paintings ‘Of of Ajantha, presenting a magnificent gallery of Buddhist Art and an admirable But the form of Art that has really made it record of the history of Buddhism. Five of famous is painting. The paintings at Ajanta these twenty-six caves are Chaityas or are studied by Art students from all over shrines and the remainder are viharas the world and the colours used in these (Monasteries) chiselled into rock in its own paintings, all derived from natural resources, abode in the lap of nature; the walls, pillars are a wonder mixture that have survived and ceilings of these caves are adorned the ravages of time and retained their

325 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA freshness to this day. They portray the (Universities) in India. These Universities Jataka stories and incidents in the life of were established in different parts, the Buddha in great detail. Some of the most famous among them being Nalanda paintings are portraits of Buddha and Bodhi Nalanda was known throughout the Sattvas and also of Hindu Gods and Buddhist world of the time for its learned Goddesses. The Ajanta paintings are of teachers and the names of its Acharyas, outstanding significance to the history of Sva Bhadra, Santa Rakshita and Asita Asia and Asian Art. The whole course of Dipankara, shining luminaries in a galaxy of Art in Eastern Asia is bound up with the many more, conjure up a vision of the history of Buddhism in its successive supreme eminence of the Nalanda Visva phases. The student of Art finds himself Vidyalaya throughout its glorious history. constantly referring to Ajanta as the one Buddha himself is believed to have visited great-monument of painting created by this site and hence is this place held sacred Buddhist faith and fervour in the land which to His memory. gave birth to the religion and its great Even in its ruins, the site of Nalanda, with founder. There is a glow of religious impulse some of the stupas standing out behind the creation of these paintings, a majestically amidst the rubble, speaks out quality which, perhaps, is the reason behind all its past glory of ancient Buddhist the imperishability of the paintings. monasteries. Twelve caves along the ridge, among the Ellora range of caves are Buddhistic in Sanchi-stupas theme and form. The monastic caves and the Chaityas resemble those of Ajanta, only The stupa was held extremely sacred by slightly varying in form. The “Tin Thal”, the the Buddhists as a monumental relic and it two storeyed monasteries are the most was considered to represent the Blessed important among the Ellora caves. One, before the introduction of his image in sculpture. As such, the stupa was Sculptures of Ellora regarded an object of worship and devotion and in this votive aspect, it was known as In contrast with Ajanta, which is famous Chaitya and was set up in separate for its paintings, Ellora displays a great structures called the Chaitya halls which wealth in sculptures, massive, beautiful are actually Buddhist shrines. images executed with superb skill. These Sanchi is the sight of the most extensive sculptures chiefly portray Buddha and Bodhi relics of Buddhist structures, the majority Sattvas. The Hindu and Jain Caves also of which are stupas. The earliest of Sanchi contain beautiful sculptures of deities and remains date back to Ashoka and the city Tirthankaras. might have been erected by him during his campaign for the spread of Buddhism. The Nalanda Great stupa with its base of 100 feet in The spread of Buddhism has brought about diameter and its imposing dome of nearly the establishment of Visva Vidyalayas 50 feet in height has made Sanchi a name

326 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA famous among cities of Buddhist relics. Jain Pilgrim Centres Another stupa identical in design and situated north-east of the great stupa, A brief resume revealed sacred relics of Putta and Maha Moggalana, the two famous disciples of the Blessed One, recently brought back HE supreme aim of all religions is to from London for consecration in a new teach men how to live, and the shrine at Sanchi. Tlearning and living are religion itself. A great number of Stupas are also found The cleansing of the human heart and the at other places, surrounding Sanchi, such building up of a blameless life are among as Sonari, Satdhara, Bhojpur, etc., which the underlying, enduring factors of every leads to the inference that these places religion. That which is vital to every religion were once centres of pilgrimage for is the pursuit of the ideal of goodness. followers of the Faith. Other things are superficial accretions. The chief fascination of Sanchi is the large Beholding perfect goodness in a person the number of Great Stupas which are visited world would look upon him as divine. As he both for their sanctity and artistic value. practises virtue and not merely preach it, The large number of monasteries indicate he is revered as a saint. In him, perfect that Buddhism flourished here in its days goodness as conceived by man stands of glory and splendour, housing large revealed. The very ground that he treads numbers of Monks and nuns. Many of the on becomes holy and the very place he ruins have been carefully and imaginatively has chosen for his abode becomes a pilgrim restored to their old form, providing the centre. ‘All that be touches gets sanctified’. recent visitors a chance to peep back into Such are the spots associated with the the glorious past, which witnessed the birth great Mahavira, the first known prophet of of the Blessed One and the spread of the Jainism and the line of true disciples who Light of Wisdom. took up the torch blazed by him. The -Material drawn from a paper by luminous trail of exemplary teachers are VEN. N. JINA RATANA, and Buddhist known as Tirthankaras, ‘In the lives of all Shrines in India, Govt. of India the great teachers we see a manifestation Publications Department. of that universal truth, the majesty and splendour of which is as yet dimly comprehended by mankind. It is to the elevating lives and inspiring words of these mighty teachers that the eyes of hungering and thirsting world are turned for guidance.’ As seekers they keep moving from one to another of these sacred spots, places hallowed by their presence in the past. There are twenty-four Tirthankaras and the several places associated with them are

327 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA the Tirthas. Ayodhya, sacred to the Hindus includes places where the Jinas attained by its being the birth-place of Sri Rama is liberation and became siddhas. There are also considered a pilgrim centre for the five such places : Jains. The first of the Tirthankaras has Mt. Kailas, Sammeta and Mangi-Tungi claimed lineage from the Ikshavaku race. are cave temples revered because they It is said that four others were also born have served as a place from where there. There is actually a Jain temple on countless monks have attained . In the banks of the Sarayu. this category falls . Situated Sravasthi is today called Sahet-Mahet. It among the abundant flora. the hill bas a is 216 Km. from Balrampur. This is the land wall along the base with a gate. A pathway that gave Jainism its fourth Tirthankara, winds its way up a number of temples on Sambhavnathji. the slopes of the hill side. On the full-moon Kaushambi : Between Allahabad and day in Kartik there is a big festival at this Kannur on the Northern Railway is a station Tirtha. called Bharwari. About 32 Km. from here is Near Muktagiri is the Tirth of Santariksha a hillock called Prabas. Here is a temple , which defied the law of dedicated to the sixth Tirthankara, gravitation, for here stands an image that Padmaprabha. It is said that he was born once stood suspended in mid-air. It has at Kaushamb and had performed penance now descended closer to the ground, but on this hillock and finally received it still stands above the ground. enlightenment at this pot. Some Jain Tirthas are known as Atishaya Varanasi : On the banks of the Ganga is a Kshetras as they have some miraculous temple dedicated to Suparswanath and event associated with them. One such Bhelpur is a place hallowed as the place of place in Rajasthan is where an image was Parswanath’s birth. Here also there is a discovered by a cobbler in a miraculous temple marking out the spot for pilgrims to manner. A temple has been built here, and visit. to this day, the descendants of the cobbler Simhapur is now called Sarnath. Just near pay for its upkeep. the stupa is a beautiful Jain temple and Shitalnatli temple at Calcutta built by Rai Dharmasala, where Sreyannath is said to Bahadur Badridas is dedicated to the tenth have graced the world by his birth. Tirthankar. The garden at this shrine is one Chandrapur : There stands a shrine on of the beauty spots of Calcutta. It is at the banks of the Ganges in a village called Pavapuri that Mahavira attained Nirvana. Chandravathi, Ratnapuri, Kampil and This village is 15 Km. away from Bihar Serif. Sowripur are different places where several The white marble temples here exude the Tirthankaras lived and practised penance. fragrance of pure peace. One temple that deserves special mention is Damosaran Hastinapur has a large temple about 22 Mandir signifying the holy site, where miles from Meerut. The second Tirthankara, Mahavira is believed to have preached to Bhagavan Rishaba had received his first his disciples. Every year at the time of alms here. The itinerary of any Jain pilgrim Deepavali, this village becomes the venue

328 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA of a big congregation. Jain Pontiff, which one sees on the left Parasvanath hill or Sammet Shikar which about half way down the slope while rises steeply from the plains of Dhanbad is descending by the Urwahi Road. The another holy place of the Jains. It derives colossus is 57 feet in height. Its foot is its name from Tirthankara Parasnath, who nine feet long. It was carved in 1440 during attained Nirvana here. The most important the reign of Dongsar Singh. The south- temple is the one dedicated to Parasnath. east group contains twenty-one colossal The black marble image of Sri Parasnath statues, several of which have screen walls seated cross-legged is beautifully in front as at Ellora. The rock sculptures sculptured. The hill itself is a place of of Gwalior are unsurpassed in North India pilgrimage to devout Jains from all over for their immense dimensions. India. The Santhals also worship the hill as The Parsvanatha temple, the largest and a deity. the finest of the Jain temples surviving at Rajgir is famous for its hot springs. This Khajuraho, is 68 feet 2 inches long and 34 was once the capital of Magadha over feet 10 inches broad. The sanctum which Bimbisara and Ajatasatru had ruled. contains an ornamental throne with a It is girdled by five hills and hence called carved bull in front. The bull is the emblem Panchsailapur. There are a number of Jain of Adinatha, the first of the Jain religious temples here on all the five hills. There is a leaders. The modern image of Parsvanatha Jain temple near Nalanda, the famous was installed in 1860. There are excellent Buddhist centre of learning. sculptures on the outer walls of the Khandagiri is in Orissa. About 8 Km. west sanctum - a woman fondling a child, a of Bhubaneswar are two hillocks, Khandagiri woman writing a letter, a little figure and Udaygiri. There are a number of ancient extracting a thorn from her foot, and a caves on these rocks interspersed here and woman at her toilet - all these on the there by well-built temples. These temples northern side. date back to B.C. 40. The Adinatha Temple is located immediately In one of the caves at Udaygiri there are to the north of the Parsvanatha Temple inscriptions by a Jain King of Kalinga called and is smaller in size. The south-east bank Kharavel. From time immemorial this had of the Madras Sagar is dominated by a hill been a place of penance for Jain Sadhaks, on which are 324 images of the Tirthankaras There are five groups of Jain sculptures or Jain Pontiffs hewn out of rock. dating back to the fifteenth century and The most interesting building in the city is consisting principally of some of the 24 the , a shrine of the Digambar Tirthankaras and Jain Pontiffs on the rock sect of Jains. The walls, roof and floor of walls of the Fort. Of these, the group the Kanch Mahal are lavishly inlaid with situated in the Urwahi Valley and the mother-of-pearl, glass and multi-coloured south-east group situated near the north- beads. On the walls are hung graphic west corner of the King George Park are paintings illustrating all the terrible interesting. The largest of the sculptures punishments meted out in the next world is a standing image of Adinath, the first on those guilty of various sins. There are

329 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA exquisitely carved silver tablets in front of temple is also a statue of Parsvanath, from the sanctum on which is installed one huge the chin of which water drips constantly. black marble idol and two white idols of On the 16 temples, the triple temple built the Jain Tirthankaras, Chandraprabhu, in 1177 by Tejpala and Vastupala (who also Shantinath and Adinath. The pillars in the built the celebrated at hall are beautifully decorated with red, Mount Abu) has an image of the 19th green, blue and orange beads. Enormous Tirthankara, Mallinath. crystal chandeliers are suspended from the roof. Reflections of light on the walls and Ranakpur : Situated six miles from Sadri the shining pillar produce an indescribably and ninety-five miles from Udaipur, beautiful effect. The upper storey, which Ranakpur is famous for its group of Jain is similarly ornamented, has in its sanctum temples, a treasure-house of art and three bronze images of the same architecture. Set in the picturesque Tirthankaras placed in the middle of a pair surroundings of the Aravalli ranges, it of mirrors which show hundreds of presents the blending of religious reflections of the idols stretching almost ‘architecture with that of nature’s scenic to infinity. The silver-doored temple is kept splendour. Thousands of devotees as well open between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m. for those as tourists visit this place, for it is an who do not belong to the Jain faith. important place of pilgrimage of the Jain In Gujarat, the most famous temple outside Panchatirtha, of this region. Ahmedabad’s Delhi Gate is Hathising temple, The Chou-mukha (four-faced) temple, also which faintly resembles the Dilwara temples called ‘Trailoka Deepak’ at the time of its of Vastupala and Tejapala at Mount Abu. foundation, is the main temple of the group. Built of white marble, it has 53 domes with The temple was constructed by Dharma pointed Shikaras (towers). Figures of the Shah, who was encouraged by the warrior- 24 Jain Tirthankaras are sculptured on the administrator and great builder Rana building. Kumbha of Mewar in the year 1439 A.D. On a cliff, about 152 m. (500 ft.) below The Rana not only have an impetus but the summit, is the famous temple city of also contributed financially to the building the Jains. The biggest temple is that of of the temple, for Ranakpur was a part of Neminath, built in the 12th century. A fine the mewa territory during his reign. An view of the temple can be obtained from inscription on a pillar states that Deepak, above. Standing in a quadrangular the builder of this temple, did so at the courtyard (59 x 40 m or 195 x130 ft.) , the behest of a devotee of the “ Araata” named temple is surrounded by pillared cloisters Dharanka. The temple greatly revered by containing over 70 cells. The Mantap is devotees is one of the five holy places of 213 m. (43ft) square with a colonnade of the Jains. Other four pilgrim centres are 22 pillars forming aisles. Neminath, to whom Mushala, Mahavir, Nadolgram and Verkana. this temple is dedicated, was the 22nd Jain A quadruple image of Lord Adinath adorns Tirthankara and his image in black is the inner temple, which is open on all the adorned with massive jewellery. In this four sides. It is three storyed and

330 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA constructed on a huge basement of forty- shrines with vivid domes, each signifying eight thousand sq.feet. The temple has the position of some chapel hall of the four subsidiary shrines and eighty domes columns interrupted at intervals by open supported by 400 columns. There are 24 courts, each compartment ceiled with mantapas and 44 spires imparting majesty carvings of a most intricate character, and and sublimity to the whole structural mass the whole illuminated by either direct or of the temple. Five large domes on by reflected light which is thrown from the sanctuaries add to its grandeur, where the pavement or pillar and from pillar to screen play of light and shade present a to penetrate, in to all parts”. fascinating spectacle. The walls of the Inspite of its secluded location and shrines lead to their seclusion from the main protection, provided by the natural hill, the temple and give them a distinctive look. temple could not escape all the iconoclastic The structure of the temple is marvellous fury of Aurangzeb. It is said that and every nook and corner of the pillars Aurangzeb, though marching in a great and the sabha mantapa are engraved with hurry on this route, purposefully stopped images. Though built in the 15th century, for some time to mark his presence in this it gives the appearance of a newly built shrine by mutilating and defacing the temple. beautiful pieces of sculptural architecture. On stepping inside the main shrine, one Architects are now busy mending this loss feels absorbed in the devotional with a view to restoring its structural atmosphere pervading around. One is grandeur and sculptural dexterity. amazed to see the massive structure, standing in perfect condition on 1,444 pillars for the last five hundred years. Another characteristic of the temple is the erotic carvings on its exterior parts conveying the principles of Jainism with the intention of creating aversion to such ideas. The exuberance and splendour of these shrines have attracted critics and they have praised them eloquently. In the words of Ferguson - “I know of no other building in India, of the same class, that leaves as pleasing an impression, or affords so many hints for the graceful arrangement of columns in an interior”. According to Klaus Fischer, “the principal impression, conveyed by this temple is the variety and multiplicity of its part, yet all are well proportioned and uniformly disposed within the scheme. Then there is this contrast of the pointed

331 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA or the Brahma Peetha, the Middle or Vishnu The Linga and its loci Peetha and the uppermost or Siva Peetha. Some Lingas are called Swayambhus and others arc Narmadeshwars. There are five Bhuta Lingas and twelve Jyotirlingas. The iva” means auspiciousness. This, five Bhuta Lingas arc (i) Kalahastishwar, being a quality, has no form. To a (ii) jambukeshwar (iii) Arunachaleswar (iv) Sdevotee all forms are Siva’s forms; Ekambareswar and (v) Chidambareshwar. all are pervaded by the “Linga” of Siva. The Jyotirlingas are (a) Kedarnath (b) Kasi Just as some minds focus easily when they Viswanath (c) Somnath (d) Baijnath (e) gaze into a crystal, so does the mind attain Rameswar (f) Ghushineswar (g) Bhima one-pointedness when it concentrates on Shanker (h) Maha Kala (i) Mallikarjuna (j) a Linga, says Swami Sivananda, the sage Amaleswar (k) Nageswar and (1) of Ananda Kutir. This is actually a breaking Tryambakeswar. Besides this, the temple away from the concrete and material to of Lord Mahalinga at Tiruvadaimardur, the abstract and spiritual. known also as Madhyarjuna, is regarded The devotees of Siva say that they use as one of the greatest Siva Temples of the Linga as the “emblem” of the Great the South India. Unknown, the symbol that reminds souls of the “Unknown Deity” presiding over the Panchabhuta Lingas entire Universe. It has been said that Siva first manifested Himself as a huge column Thiruvannamalai: Lord Siva assumed the of fire, and that the Gods Brahma and form of a hill at Tiruvannamalai. Here he Vishnu attempted to discover the top and quelled the pride of the other gods, who bottom extremities of this column but failed were quarrelling as to their relative in their effort. From this failure arose the greatness. Arunachaleswar is a Tejo Linga phrase “the unknown Deity “, the Lingam and represents the Agni (Fire) Tattwa of pointing upwards in the pillar of fire, whose Pancha Bhutas (five elements). height none could gauge. Thus, if there is This place is famous for its festival of lights any truth in the claim that the “alayas” (Kartigai Deepam) which occurs every year (temples) are only sacrificial grounds in a in the month of Kartikai, on the day when higher sense, then the sacred fire must the full moon falls in the Kartikai or Krittika be the Siva Linga. Linga, therefore, is nakshetram. The lighting takes place at only the outward symbol of the formless about 5—5-30 p.m. A big hollow in a rock being. Lord Siva who is the indivisible, all- is filled with ghee, oil and camphor, a big pervading, eternal, auspicious , ever-pure wick is put in the ghee and lighted. The immortal essence of this vast universe is lighting is seen even at a distance of 16 also the Soul seated in the Chamber of miles. The light would burn continuously one’s heart as the in dweller, innermost for 3 months. A veil is put round the light soul or Atman. at the top of the hill. When the priests A Siva Linga consists of 3 parts, the lowest from the Siva temple bring His image

332 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA outside, it is an indication that the Star pillars indicates the Agamas. The space Kartika has risen. Then Bana (fire work) is that is within the pillars is the Chidakasa. sent towards the light on the hill. The man Lord Nataraja has His seat on the who is in charge of the lighting at the hill Pranavapeetam. removes the veil at once, it is then that There are nine (or domes) on the the crowds of pilgrims below have a vision tower. These are the 9 saktis. The sixty of this light. A chorus of voices go up in a four wooden supports in the tower unanimous call of “Harahara”. The esoteric represent 64 vidyas or kalas. The twenty- idea is that he who sees this light of lights one thousand six- hundred copper plates that is burning eternally in the Chambers coated with gold represent 21,600 breaths of one’s heart through constant meditation of man. attains immortality. This external symbol is Adjacent to the Kanaka sabha is a temple the outer indication of a hidden truth. dedicated to Govinda Raja (Vishnu). This Tiruvannamalai is now a hallowed spot for shows that Shiva and Vishnu are essentially people all over the world, because of its one. Such temples gather unto themselves being the place where Ramana Bhagavan a sanctity by the association of the temple lived and attained Mahasamadhi. with some saints. One whose name flashes through the mind with the mere mention Chidambaram of Chidambaram temple is that of Nandanar, the saint for whom Lord Siva performed so Lord Siva is worshipped in Chidambaram as many miracles and even had the temple a formless presence, Akasa Linga. Shiva is doors flung open to the lowly and the also worshipped here as Nataraja. humble. “Arudradarsana”, one of the important festivals of South India is celebrated every Kalahasti year at Chidambararn in the month of Margasirsha. The five corridors of a Siva The Siva Linga of Kalahasti is one of the temple represent the five “” of the five supreme Lingas representing one of body. Darsanopanishad says that the five great elements. The Vayu (air) Chidambaram is in the centre of the heart. Linga is said to be installed in this temple. The Hall of thousand pillars represents the In proof of the above, it can be seen that “Sahasrara” or the 1000 petalled lotus on in the Garbhagriha of the temple there is a the crown of the head. In Tiruchittram- light which to this day flickers even though balam or “Mahasabha” there are five there is no hole for the air to enter it. peethams dedicated to Brahma, Vishnu, The Linga here is said to have been Rudra, Maheswara and . The five worshipped in ancient days by a spider, a letters of the Panchakshara (Namasivaya) snake and an elephant. The spider spun a form the five steps. The veil represents web and clothed the Lord, the snake the ignorance of Avidya. The 96 windows adorned the Lord with its gem and the represent the 96 tattvas, the four golden Elephant washed the Linga with water. Like pillars —the 4 vedas, and the 28 wooden the little squirrel who contributed his might

333 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA towards the building up of the Setu bridge Kailasagiri by the Pallava Kings and later so also did these denizens of the forest by Tondaiman Chakravarti. The Chola Kings worship the Lord. Pleased by this worshipful renovated and built the main temple. The service the Lord is said to have granted Main entrance of the Temple is at them Moksha. The image of these three “Galigopuram”. Close to it is the shrine devotees of the Lord is still found embossed dedicated to Kasi Viswanatha (and on the Linga. The River Swarna Mukhi Annapurna). This great temple in the south washes the entire western wall of the echoes the name of the Great Kasi temple, Kalahasti is also hallowed by its Viswanath at Varanasi. Siva is the same association with the great sage Kannapa Lord, in the north as well as the south and whose story is a byword for all-consuming the land that worships Him is also the same, devotion. He is said to have given up his only the devotees claim distinctions of eyes as an offering to the Lord. Untutored place, province, caste and community. in the ways of the orthodox rituals he He, the mighty Lord, is above all offered whatever his profession made him distinctions. The main shrine is that of fit for. He was a hunter. So his sacrifice Kalahastiswara, the entrance of which is consisted of the animals and birds he had flanked by his humble devotee Kannapa. It shot. is this Linga, whose curiously shaped The Lord accepts the love offering of a pedestal resembles the trunk of an elephant pure heart, whatever the thing offered. with tusks on either side, a spider embossed He looks to the heart and not at the thing below and shaded by the hood of a given. Kalahasti is surrounded by two hills, serpent, which seems to pay a tribute even the one in the north has a temple dedicated to His “animal” children. When the Lord who to Goddess Durga and the other in the finds no distinction between animal and south has a shrine of Kannabeswarar. The man, between low and high how could He temple of Kalahastiswara is to the west of countenance the multifarious divisions that the hill of the same name. In the second tear mankind apart into numerous factions? court of the temple is underground cell where Lord Ganapathi is worshipped as Sri Ekamreswar Patala Vinayaka. This shrine is 30 feet below the surface and said to mark the Sri Ekamreswar temple at Kanchi contains level of the river. In the third century B.C. the celebrated Prithivi (earth) Linga, four great Tamil Saivite saints Sambandar, another of the famous five lingas, which Appar, Manikkavachagar and Sundaramurthi has its abode in Kanchi on the banks of have visited Kalahasti and have sung about the river Kamba (now called Vegavati), the Lord here. Rama Linga Swami and Some trace the origin of the name Pattinathar have also sung about Ekamreswara to the presence of a single Kalahastiswar. Adi Sankara, the great huge mango tree found in the temple. The religious reformer, has sung about Sri temple has a thousand pillared hall and five Kannappa Nayanar in his Sivananda Lahari. vestibules. This temple was built by Sri The temple was built at the foot of Krishna Devaraya. Within its walls are found

334 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA images of Buddhist, Jaina and Hindu origins. Lingam” under the shade of a Jambu tree There is a very old mango tree standing in and commenced Her worship. It is said that the temple premises, and it is worshipped an elephant and a spider, also began to by all to this day with great veneration. It worship the Linga. Every day the spider has four branches, and each branch bears would weave a web of canopy over the fruits with different tastes. There is a Lingam to prevent the dried leaves of the popular belief that if a barren woman eats Jambu tree from falling on it. The elephant the fruit of this tree she is blessed with would bring water in its trunk and bathe progeny. On the altar, around the tree, is the Lingam. The latter, finding that the a linga surrounded by 108 small lingas. Here web woven by the spider was a hindrance one finds images of the Sixty-three to his giving the bath would tear it away. Nayanmars. There are two tanks near the Day after day this was repeated. The spider temple called Kambanadi and Sivaganga. would weave its web and the elephant A Vishnu temple is also found in the would destroy it. This infuriated the spider, compound of this great temple. Tirumangai which then entered the elephant’s trunk Alwar has sung hymns in praise on this and stung it on a vital spot in its head. Lord. This temple is visited by Saivites all The elephant died and in that very process over South India. Vows are taken to the spider too fell dead. Ekamranatha at moments of sorrow and The Lord was pleased by the Mother’s also in celebration of events. Every year penance, so He appeared in a vision and thousands of pilgrims gather here for cleared Her doubt. He also released the festivals to worship Lord Ekamranathar. The elephant and spider from their curse. It is festivals celebrated here are , on this spot that the Chola ruler Mahasivarathri, Adi Karthigai and Navaratri. constructed a temple for Sri Jambukeswara and His consort Sri Akilandeswari (as Lord Sri Jambukeswara Temple Siva and Mother Parvati arc known here), the presiding deities of the temple. It The above temple in near covers an area of over 18 acres. The ‘Apa‘ Tiruchirapalli is of great antiquity and stated (water) Lingam here is a Swayambhu, and to have been in existence from the first is surrounded by water, which is a novel century B.C. According to tradition it was feature of this temple. This water is pumped built by a Chola ruler. The legend relating out twice or thrice a day. Saints like to the construction of the shrine is: In the Thirugnana Sambandar, Appar, Manickava- Mount Kailas, Mother Parvathi, once sagar and Sundaramoorthy have visited requested Her Lord to explain how penance this temple and composed devotional could be reconciled with pleasure. The Lord songs, in praise of the deity. There are asked Her’ to go to earth and undertake 154 stone inscriptions relating to Chola, penance and that He would appear before Pandya, Hoysala and Madurai Naik rulers her there and clear her doubt. Accordingly period. Parvathi, assuming human form, came down The following are the regular annual to the earth. She came to the “Gaja festivals of the temple: Vasantha

335 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA Uthsavam, Adi Pooram, Thai Theppam, this constant God experience, every Brahmothsavam in March, Car festival and incident, every creature around is but a Panchapraharam in April. Of these the reflection of that Beloved One. To Chaitanya Panchapraharam is the main one, which Maha Prabhu, the deep blue colour of the attracts about 5,000 to 6,000 devotees. Ocean was but a reminder of the Lord’s Hereditary Brahmin priests who called infinite play on earth. Pandithars and who own houses and lands, offer four poojas daily. In the Mid-day pooja, the priest, dressed as female, performs pooja. The significance is that the Mother Herself worships the Lord. The following story relating to this temple is of interest: A Chola ruler who had his headquarters at Woriyur used to go to the temple with his wife to worship the Lord and Devi. One day, he felt while worshipping at the shrine that the necklace that his wife was then wearing would better adorn the Lord’s form. Subsequently, while on their way to the temple, both the king and queen took a bath in the River Kaveri when the latter’s necklace slipped from her neck and fell into the river. Thinking that the necklace had been lost, they arrived at the temple. It was then the hour of Abishekam and water had been fetched from the Kaveri. When the water was poured on the Lingam, the necklace dropped from the pot on the Lord’s head and the To Sri Ramakrishna,the entire universe was king’s wish was thus fulfilled. filled by His Divine Mother and Her infinite Love. Many such examples may be cited The Jyotirlingas from Saints all over the world. To them the trees, the singing birds, the roar of The perfect Sage sees his own self in the wild animals, the silence of the jungle, everything. He roams around experiencing the blue dome that forms the sky, the rising the Divine Presence everywhere and at all Sun, the Crescent moon, the dancing times. To one who is thus living inwardly in peacocks, all whisper messages profound

336 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA but inaudible to the common man. Such a Somnath, in Sri Sailam as Mallikarjuna, in saint beholds the Divine Vision even in Ujjain as Sri Maha Kala, and as lifeless stones. To him they are hallowed Omkareswara on the snow-capped spots to be trodden on softly, silently and Himalaya. He has established himself at prayerfully. It may be a or a Linga. Kedarnath. At Dakini, he is Bhima Sankar, Thus these Saints go about treading gently and at Varanasi He is Viswanath. On the on the bosom of Mother earth. No wonder banks of the Godavari He is then that it is said that the orphaned earth Tryambakeswara, He is Vaidyanath at Chita rejoices at the advent of these Saintly Bhumi. In the sylvan glades of Daruka forest ones. He is Sri Nageswar. These Saints have sensed God everywhere, in all things. And they have Varanasi marked specially a few select spots on the earth, so that others - far less evolved or The Eternal City of Siva, immortalised in enlightened — could get glimpses of the the scriptures and sung by poets of Divine presence at least in those centres. devotion, is found between the two rivers, Such spots are marked out by them for Varana and Asi. Viswanath is the presiding their association with some Divine form, deity here. The primeval Jyotir Linga is with some sacred memory hallowed by believed to have been there from the very myth and legend or scriptural utterance. beginning of time. Mention of it is found in To this group belong the Jyotirlingas, that the puranas. The Visweswara temple was are twelve in number and scattered along desecrated by successive foreign invaders the length and breadth of India. These silent only to be re-installed. It fell a victim to sages have chartered the path that a the iconoclast maniacs who ravaged the pilgrim may take, reminding us again and temples of India from time to time. The again of the same Divine presence in all see-saw of destruction and restoration places. It is the Divine that extends far continued till it was finally razed to the beyond boundaries and quickens the rich ground by Sikandar Lodi in 1494, who diversity of forms by its universal banned further re-construction. For immanence. seventy long years Benaras (Varanasi) had These Lingas are Swayambhu, self made. no temple. Unprecedented drought and To a skeptic, this may sound to be epidemics swept over the city claiming preposterous exaggeration or a mere innumerable lives regardless of faith. At superstition. Whatever that may be, that time there lived a saintly man called whether the Lord has brought it into being Narayana Bhatta, to whom these afflicted or whether the forces of nature have people (even Muslims) went for relief. eroded and weathered it into that smooth Narayana Bhatta is said to have told the structure that we call the Linga — it has, Muslim Ruler that all these pestilential to the true devotee, a message profoundly suffering that had befallen the people was significant and powerful in its inspiration. due to the absence of the Visweswara These Lingas are found in Saurashtra as temple, and that the ban on the re-

337 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA construction of the temple should be lifted. it. Later Hanuman returned with the Linga So in or about 1569 the temple was re- from Kailas only to find that a Linga had built. The present shrine was constructed already been found and installed. So to by Rani Ahalya Bai after a further onslaught console Him the Lord had Hanuman’s Linga on it by Aurangzeb in A.D. 1669. It is said also installed along side and decreed that that the water at the Lord’s feet has the its worship should precede that of the Linga power to cure all diseases. Near the temple established by himself. Sri Rama’s action there is a “Jnana-Vapi” (Well of Knowledge), here reveals two divine excellences: firstly, into which the deity is supposed to have his magnanimity in recognising virtue even taken refuge at the time of the temple’s in an adversary whom he had perforce to desecration. The Linga is housed in the Sri fight while upholding Dharma and in Viswanath temple. It has certain special commemorating it fittingly; and secondly features, of which the pedestal at the base his supreme forgiveness in overlooking of the Linga is arresting in its shape. Unlike Hanuman’s delay by accommodating a the usual circular structure it is four-sided second Linga in the scheme of worship. and hence has no outlet for water. The The Linga at Rameswaram is considered to Nandi in front has its face turned in the be one of the oldest Lingas. It is reckoned direction where the old temple stood. Here among the twelve Jyotir Lingas. Even to millions come to worship and several choose this day devotees bring water from the to spend their last moments there. Ganges to bathe the Linga here, — thus linking once again the North with South. Rameswaram Ujjain Rameswaram is in the State of Tamil Nadu in the district of Ramnad. It is almost an Ujjain in Madhya Pradesh was the capital island, off the shores of which the Arabian of Malwa. The country was also called Sea meets the Bay of Bengal. It derives Avanti. In Ujjain the most famous spot is its name from Lord Sri Rama, the King of the temple of Lord Maha Kala. It is one of Ayodhya, who is said to have worshipped the 12 Jyotir Lingas. The temple stands Iswara (Siva) after destroying Ravana. His near a lake, and has five storeys, one of enemy, Ravana was a Brahmin by birth and which is underground. The way leading to a great devotee of Siva. In expiation of the sanctuary is dark and lamps are kept the sin of Brahmahatya (or the killing of constantly burning and it is only here that the Brahmin) the Lord wanted to worship Bilva leaves and flowers received as Prasad Lord Siva, and so he asked his devotee after an offering may be reoffered. (Siva Hanuman to go to Kailas and get straight Purana Ch. 1, 42). The legend connected from the Lord Siva Himself a Linga for his with this temple concerns a pious and worship. It is said that Hanuman was unable devout Brahmin living in Avanti. A tyrant to return in time and so Mother Sita herself of the name Dushana, residing near Ratna fashioned a Linga out of sand and it was Mala Hill, started harassing the people, who established here and the Lord worshipped ran in desperation to this pious man. This

338 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA man performed severe penance, and as a oblations to ancestors. result the Lord appeared as Maha Kala and destroyed the tyrant. The Lord then, Omkareswar and Amaleswar complying with the devotees’ request to abide there permanently so that worship This place is in the province of Malwa, on may continue, stayed on in the form of the banks of river Narmada. From Ujjain, Maha Kala Jyotir Linga. Skanda Purana Omkareswar is about 89 miles. At this place describes this area as the Maha Kala Vana. the Narmada branches out enclosing an Agni Purana calls it the best of Tirthas. elevated hilly structure, which is called Mandhata or Sivapuri mountain. One Kedarnath tributary flows through the north and the other through the south of the hill. Of Scriptures declare that Kedar is one of the these, the south flowing river is more fore-most shrines, whose waters anoint important. One has to cross the river by Maha Deva. The Siva Linga of Kedarnath boat. It is on the Mandhata mountain that is massive and probably the biggest. It is the Omkareswar temple is built. It is stated a grey series of rocks. This is one of the that a devoted king called Mandhata Jyotir Lingas. In this shrine the pilgrims worshipped the Lord and performed themselves do the Abhishekam and perform penance here. The Linga here is not in a Pujas. The story goes that Nara and depression nor is it below the tower. Water Narayana acclaimed as incarnations of is found surrounding the Linga at all times. Vishnu were engaged in tapas, and they Some people consider it to be of the nature used to mould a Linga every day out of of the Pranava. In earlier days it is said the earth for worship. Pleased with their that people plunged down from the devotion Siva appeared before them and expressed his willingness to grant them a boon. They requested him to stay at Kedar in the form of a Jyotir Linga. The Lord granted them their prayer and accordingly He stands there as a Linga to this day, worshipped by devotees from all over the world. The well-kept and attractive temple stands on a ridge, which juts out at right angles from below the snowy peak. It is known as Mahapanth. It is built on the same style as the temples of North are built. The sanctum is extremely dark, and so lamps are kept burning all the time. Pilgrims pour ghee into the lamps, and also anoint the Linga with it. There are many lakes behind the temple where people offer

339 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA mountain in order to die at this sacred spot. and was reinstated and the Linga reinstalled On Kartika Purnima day there is a great on the 11 th of May, 1951 (Vaisakha Sukla gathering of pilgrims who come to worship Panchami). It still stands on the same spot here. People bathe in the Narmada and and over the same rock (Brahma sila) where worship the Lord. On Mondays the Linga is from the most ancient times stood the covered with a five faceted mask and taken Jyotir Linga of God Siva. This Tirtha is on out in procession. Amaleswar is found on the south coast of Saurashtra. It is said the southern bank of the armada. So that the moon-god worshipped Lord Siva Omkareswar split, to form Amaleswar where observing severe austerity and when the Omkareswar was the Jyotirlinga and the Lord was pleased, he wished to name the other was the Parthiva deity of the shrine Linga. Somnath. Somnath Tryambakeswar: This is thus connected place is about 20 miles with ‘Soma’ or south-west of Nasik. Moon. A legend The present temple was says that the Moon built by Peshwa Balaji established here Bajiras on the site of the the first shrine of older shrine. In the Lord Siva. The sanctum sanctorum of prosperity of this temple is a small Somnath temple is depression full of water described by Muslim and in this water stands historians. Water is the Swyambhu Linga. said to have been From an apparent crack brought daily from on the top of the Linga the Ganges and water constantly flows flowers from down. The Linga is Kashmir for covered by a golden purposes of ablution mask with five faces carved on it. The and worship. The temple has an endowment Patala Kanda of the Padma Purana contain of 10,000 villages or its maintenance. On a chapter on Tryambaka Mahatmya. A the day of eclipse multitudes of pilgrims legend connected with Tryambakeswara is gather here. Its assets are regarded that Lord Siva was once cursed by Brahma, fabulous. Today, it stands as a dim reminder the Creator, and made to descend from his of a glorious past, a past chapter of heavenly abode and come to the earth grandeur that came under the relentless below. So He came down as blows of iconoclastic maniacs. Tryambakeswara. Festivals are held in the Mallikarjuna : Mallikarjuna temple is in Sri month of Kartika on the full moon day. Sailam. It is one of the twelve Jyotir Lingas. Somnath: The famous Somnath shrine had Sri Sailam is situated in the hilly forest area been the target of attack of many invaders of Nandi Kotkur Taluq of Kurnool district.

340 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA the Lord on festive occasions. On account of this association with Chenchus Mallikarjuna is also called “Chenchu Mallayya.” Vaidyanath or Deogarh, which has another of the Jyotir Lingas, is in the Santal Parganas. Deogarh is a railway station surrounded by Jungle to the North East by dandaka hill in West and Trikuta Parvata in East and South. Siva Purana says that Ravana cut down nine of his heads and offered them in penance to Lord Siva. The Lord appeared before Him and his heads were restored as if by the miraculous surgery of a Super Human Vaidya. Hence the name, Vaidyanath. There is also a Sri Sailam is described as “the Kailas of legend current here which says that the the South”, and a tributary of River Krishna priests who originally worshipped the Linga that flows through this area is known as became subsequently neglectful. One Baiju Patala Ganga. This temple of Mallikarjuna (a cow herd) became angry for some Siva on the top of Sri Sailam overlooks the profound reason, and resolved that he Patala Ganga. A local legend has it that would give a good beating to the Linga there was once a princess called daily. He resolutely carried out the vow. Chandravati, who, due to a calamity at One day, however, he was so tired that he home ran away, and took to living incognito forgot his ritual and sat down for his meal. in Sri Sailam among some cow-herds. One On suddenly remembering his vow of a daily of the cows, it was found, yielded no milk. offering of blows to the Linga he got up The Princess had a dream, in which she and dealt a heavy blow in fulfilment of the saw Lord Siva in the form of a Linga, with day’s quota. As soon as the blow fell on the cow draining her milk over the Linga. the Linga, the Lord appeared out of the She was thus inspired to worship him daily Linga and congratulated the cow herd with Jasmine (Mallika) flowers and hence stating that while all the priests had this Linga was called Mallikarjuna. The forgotten him, Baiju remembered him even legend is engraved on a Panel on the court- though it was just to strike him. The Lord yard wall. There is another legend in appreciation named the temple after the connected with the spot which says that strange devotee Baidnath. Lord Siva came here as a hunter and The temple is situated in a big compound married a beautiful girl of the “Chenchu” walled around like a fort. The top of the tribe. The Chenchus believe themselves to Linga does still appear to be slightly broken. be self-appointed guardians of this Pilgrims bathe in the Siva Ganga lake Mallikarjuna shrine. They drag the car of situated to the North of the temple and

341 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA worship Lord Siva at the shrine. Many and their dense jungle. pilgrims bring water from far off Gangotri in Ghushmeshwar : About 66 miles from the months of Magha and Phalgun to bathe Manmad is a station called Daulatabad. the Linga. Close to the temple, too, there About 12 miles from this place is a village is a well whose waters are supposed to called Verill. Buses ply from Daulatabad (or have healing properties. Aurangabad) to this place. The tower at Bhima Sankar: This temple is situated in Daulatabad is towards the south of the village of Bhava Giri about 30 mile. N.W. Gushmeswar and situated on a hill. On this of Khed in Poona. The place is also the hill is the Dhareswar Linga, as also the source of River Bhima. It is said that Lord samadhi of Sri Janardhan Maharaj the Guru Siva destroyed the tyrant called Tripurasura of Sri Eknath. From there one has a who was spreading misery among residents beautiful view of the Ellora cave. Some of the locality. There stands a Linga today. people consider the Ghushmeswar Linga to It is said that water constantly oozes out be the Kailas temple among the Ellora of this Linga. The Maha Sivarathri attracts caves. Between the Sri Gushmeswar temple hundreds of pilgrims here from the of Lord Siva and the Deva Giri fort are a surrounding villages and towns. Water number of lakes called Surya Kund and Siva supply is plentiful and the natural setting Kund. Here we find the Pataleswar and enchanting. The temple and its surroundings Suryeshwar shrines. This is a very ancient display the rugged beauty of the Sahyadris spot. Now coming to Gushmeswar and the traditionally accepted version of its presence it is said that there was a pious and devoted couple whose one woe was that they were childless. The wife, Sudeha came to know of her husband’s unhappiness owing to the lack of progeny, and she compelled the husband to marry her own sister Sudharma, so that he may have a child through her. In due course Sundharma bore him a son, who grew up to manhood and a young maiden was chosen for his wife. For many years, these two sisters lived happily under the same roof. Sudharma was a pious devotee of Lord Siva. It was her practice to fashion a Linga out of sand, worship it and then later on

342 VIVEKANANDA KENDRA PATRIKA PILGRIM CENTRES OF INDIA immerse it in the lake. This she did daily. of His devotee. On their horizon of unclouded happiness He appeared and wished to put an end to there appeared the demon of jealousy. the evil woman who had caused the death Sudeha now planned to kill the son of on her son. Sudharma pleaded for her and Sudharma, by whose marriage she felt that asked the Lord to pardon her. Doubly she ceased to have her place in the house. pleased, the Lord asked her to name a One night she stole into the boy’s room boon. She replied that the Lord should and murdered him in cold blood. In the remain there always, so that this would be morning when the young wife discovered a blessing to all. Thus it is that he assumed the form of a Jyotir Linga and is there even today known as Ghushmeswar. Nageshwar: Like Omkareswar, Nageswar is also in two places. The better known one is on the way from Dwaraka to Bet Dwaraka. It is said that once a pious man called Supriya was attacked by an evil natured man called Daruka. Supriya and his friends were imprisoned, but even there this devotee’s mind continued to cling to the feet of his Lord. It is said that the Lord manifested Himself there to protect His devotee, and there He stands to this the death of her husband she was plunged day as the Jyotir Linga. It is at the Lord’s in grief. Sudharma was as usual oblivious command that this place came to be called of all, as she was deeply absorbed in Nageswar. worship. After worship she took the Linga There is another Nageswar Linga in to be immersed in the lake, on having Hyderabad, but from the account given in finished the work she became aware of Siva Purana the former seems to be the her son’s prostrate form at her feet. He authentic one. said, “ Ma, I was dead and I have been re- Source: Tirtha Ank (Hindi), born”. Deep in the worship of the Lord she Gorakhpur Publication. was not touched either by the sorrow of his death or by the joy of his resurrection. The Lord was so pleased that He was unable to keep Himself hidden from the eyes

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