The Sommelier Journal February/March • 2018 $10.00 Us/$12.00 Canada the Somm Journal
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
THE SOMMELIER JOURNAL FEBRUARY/MARCH • 2018 $10.00 US/$12.00 CANADA THE SOMM JOURNAL A view of THEASZÚ HISTORIC ELIXIR Budapest along the Danube. OF HUNGARY Associated with Royalty for Centuries, It’s the KING OF WINES In 1980 we had big dreams. © 2018 Hahn Family Wines Family © 2018 Hahn Why stop now? Lucienne Single Vineyard Pinot Noirs Long ago, Nicolaus “Nicky” Hahn set his sights on producing wines of distinction from Monterey County. At the time, the eastern slope of the Santa Lucia Mountains was unknown but with its well-drained soils, Pacific winds and fog, and warm summer days, it was a clear bet that Pinot Noir would grow well. Recognizing the area’s unique qualities, Nicky led an effort with other neighbor growers to establish a new appellation and in 1991, Santa Lucia Highlands was born. Now, with our four certified sustainable estate vineyards planted primarily to Pinot Noir, we celebrate Santa Lucia Highlands with carefully crafted, single vineyard selections. Consistently awarded 90+ points, these wines are signature Nicky Hahn. Sometimes, big dreams do come true. Visit our Estate 37700 Foothill Road Soledad, CA 93960 FEBRUARY/MARCH Vol. 5 No. 1 THE SOMM JOURNAL PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Meridith May Anthony Dias Blue [email protected] MANAGING EDITOR VP/ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER VP/SALES & MARKETING Jessie “JABS” Birschbach Rachel Burkons Bill Brandel [email protected] [email protected] 818-784-2122 818-990-0350 [email protected] CONTRIBUTORS VP/FINANCE DIRECTOR Anna Russell Serafin Alvarado, MS, Joann Arruda, Jeremy Ball, Cal Bingham, Sharon Coombs, Vicki 818-784-2122 Denig, Dustin Downing, Lyn Farmer, Tia Gavin, Paul Hodgins, Cameron Ingalls, Palos [email protected] Kakaviatos, James Lechner, Albert Letizia, Rachel Macalisang, Melissa Marrapese, Ph.D., Mark Nelson, Mona Shield Payne, Rebecca Peplinski, Alexander Rubin, Alex Russan SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Michael Viggiano SENIOR EDITOR Kate Newton CONTRIBUTING EDITORS SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR Michelle Ball, Bob Bath, MS, John Curley, Janet Fletcher, Richard Carleton Hacker, Karen David Gadd MacNeil, Karen Moneymaker, Chris Sawyer, Kate Webber GLOBAL WINE EDITOR Deborah Parker Wong EAST COAST EDITOR FOLLOW US! David Ransom @SommJ • facebook.com/SommelierJournal • instagram.com/SommJournal NORTHERN CALIFORNIA EDITOR Diane Denham EDITOR-AT-LARGE Published six times per year Randy Caparoso ISSN 1944-074X USPS 02488i CONTRIBUTING EDITOR-AT-LARGE The SOMM Journal is published bi-monthly for $52 per year by The SOMM Cliff Rames Journal, The Sommelier Journal, 6345 Balboa Blvd.; Ste 111, Encino, CA 91316. Periodicals postage at Van Nuys, CA and additional mailing offices. ROCKY MOUNTAIN EDITOR POSTMASTER: Ruth Tobias Subscription rate: Send address changes to: $52 One Year; $100 Two Years. LONDON CORRESPONDENT The SOMM Journal Single Copy; $10 6345 Balboa Blvd.; Ste 111 Steven Spurrier For all subscriptions, email: Encino, CA 91316 [email protected] 818-990-0350 EVENTS ASSOCIATE Mara Marski ©2018 The SOMM Journal, The Sommelier Journal. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without written permission is prohibited. Sommelier Journal USPS 024881, ISSN 1944-074X { SOMMjournal.com } 3 { letter from the publisher } PHOTO: CAMERON INGALLS CAMERON PHOTO: Amanda Wittstrom-Higgins, Founder of Wine Speak Paso, is also VP of Operations for Ancient Peaks Winery. She's pictured at left with SOMM Journal Publisher/Editorial Director Meridith May and Managing Editor Jessie “Jabs” Birschbach. This educational event successfully united winemakers, wine educators, and wine buyers. Taking Our Role as a Media Partner to the Next Level RIGHT AFTER THE HOLIDAYS, Manag- We’ll have more on this event in our email at [email protected] so we ing Editor Jessie “Jabs” Birschbach and I set April issue, but we are thrilled to launch can get you on the invite list. The all-day off to the Central Coast to join the group into 2018 with a series of other adven- seminars and tastings are coming up May from Wine Speak Paso, a new interactive tures on our calendar for the new year. 14–18. seminar and tasting event that brought We hope to see you in Santa Barbara for It’s meaningful to us to be part of these wine-buying professionals and winemakers World of Pinot Noir March 1–3; in Napa events, not just to “cover” them as another together for some serious vino vernacular. for the Global Garnacha Summit at the media outlet. It’s this sense of partnership At the first SOMM Journal media event Culinary Institute of America at Copia on that inspires us to bring these gatherings of the year, Wine Speak Paso Founder April 24; in Paso Robles for the Hospice to life in print and share the experiences Amanda Wittstrom-Higgins, who also du Rhône wine festival April 26–28, and in with our readers. We couldn’t possibly serves as VP of Operations for Paso Las Vegas at the Wine & Spirits Whole- write about all the events we’re asked to Robles winery Ancient Peaks, did a spec- salers of America 75th Annual Conven- attend, but we are wholly committed to tacular job of uniting some of the most tion & Exposition May 1–4. documenting those with which we are sought-after winemakers (i.e. Justin Smith Traveling wine education seminar Cru truly and integrally connected. of Saxum, Andy Peay, and Bruce Neyers) Artisan College will also return for an- with Master Sommeliers (including Wine other immersive series of events in Denver, Speak Paso Co-Founder Chuck Furuya, New Orleans, and Napa—we will keep wine educator Fred Dame, Nunzio Ali- you posted through social media and online oto, and Greg Harrington, as well as The updates, but it would be most helpful if you SOMM Journal’s Randy Caparoso). can send me your contact information via 4 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } FEBRUARY/MARCH 2018 Casa Martini Global Director of Sparkling Wine Marco first Mazzini joined Enologist and Wine Operations Director Giorgio Castagnotti in hosting a trade luncheon at Nerano in Beverly Hills, CA. Martini & Rossi produce the number-one Italian sparkling wine brand in the world. press FALLING IN LOVE WITH ItalianA PORTFOLIO TASTING WITH MARTINI & ROSSI’S Bubbles SPARKLING WINE TEAM { SOMMjournal.com } 5 first press by Albert Letizia / photos by Cal Bingham ALL OVER EUROPE, people The event unfolded at Nerano restaurant associate Martini & Rossi’s iconic ball and in Beverly Hills, California, where the wines bar logo with such high-societal mainstays were paired with the exquisite Amalfi as auto racing, supermodels, and celebrity Coast–inspired cuisine of Executive Chef ad campaigns featuring the likes of George Michele Lisi. Clooney. In the U.S., however, the company Piedmont served as the birthplace of is still sometimes viewed as more of a the Italian Spumante tradition, and since grande dame than a hip fashion statement. 1863, Martini has mastered the art of Long established as one of Italy’s most delivering a signature style that is vibrant, ubiquitous brands, Martini is reintroducing fresh, and light. The event at Nerano was itself to a new generation of sommeliers not only meant to showcase the portfolio and industry influencers in an effort to favorites Martini & Rossi Prosecco and bring Americans up to speed on the state Martini & Rossi Asti, but to roll out the of Italian sparkling wines and Martini’s new Martini & Rossi Rosé Extra Dry and crowning position in the category. the newly-packaged Riserva Speciale Casa Martini Enologist and Wine Op- Bitter 1872. erations Director Giorgio Castagnotti and Casa Martini continues to maintain Global Director of Sparkling Wine Marco vineyard locations throughout Piedmont The Martini Negroni Sbagliato is made with Mazzini recently set out to impress a large and northern Italy. In 1895, Founder Luigi Martini Riserva Speciale Bitter 1872, with lunchtime assembly of A-list sommeliers, Rossi hired the engineer Federico Marti- Martini & Rossi Prosecco replacing gin. The name Sbagliato translates to “mistake,” but social influencers, and bloggers on the notti, who is recognized as the creator of Italians may beg to differ: The cocktail is longstanding virtues of Martini & Rossi. the revolutionary sparkling wine produc- among the country’s most popular. tion style known today as the Charmat method; in fact, in the 1930s, winemak- Francisco International Wine Competition ers in Veneto-Friuli used the “Martinotti last year—was very well received by the method” on their native Glera grapes, and sommeliers and members of the media hence, the Prosecco tradition was born. not only for its balance and precision, but The Bitter 1872, which draws its name for its scents of peach blossom, wet stone, from Martini’s original amaro recipe delicate red fruits, and finely-ground black created that year, stood in for Campari and white pepper. The group was encour- in the welcome cocktail for the Nerano aged to add ice cubes to their glasses of luncheon: A riff on the classic Negroni, it rosé to further draw out its crisp notes of also featured Martini Rosso Vermouth and pink roses and strawberry. Martini & Rossi Prosecco instead of gin. As for the more classic members of the The result was a mouthwatering and less- portfolio showcased at the luncheon, the boozy apéritif with all the complexity of a first, Martini & Rossi Prosecco, comprises traditional Negroni, but with an elevated mainly Glera (85%), Pinot Noir, and Char- freshness and frizzante character. donnay; with additional emphasis placed The other new addition to the Martini on crispness, it exhibits aromas of green portfolio is the Martini & Rossi Extra apples and pears with a backbone of Dry Rosé sparkler made from Riesling, bright acidity. Martini & Rossi Prosecco has Chardonnay, Glera, and Nebbiolo sourced been produced since the 1990s with an Martini & Rossi Prosecco's pearlescent, from Piedmont and Veneto-Friuli and inimitably-Italian style, less dominant fruit, delicate bubbles offer a creamy palate of tank-fermented.