JAI Joint Advocacy Initiative The East Jerusalem YMCA YWCA of Palestine

Tourism in the occupied Palestinian territories. How Fair...How Educational? Joint Advocacy in the occupied Initiative Magazine Palestinian territories. Spring 2010

How Fair...How Educational? Joint Advocacy Initiative Office:The East Jerusalem In this edition of the JAI magazine environmental and solidarity tour- YMCA, Beit Sahour Branch we try to have some focus on tour- ism with some focus on promoting ism from different point of views other Palestinian areas which were 455 Jerusalem St. Tel/Fax: and perspectives. The articles out of the touristic programs. +972(0)2 2774540 written and interviews made with E-mail: [email protected] the interested people and those These initiatives were driven by Website: http://www.jai-pal.org involved in this sector activities the belief that tourism can be a show a variety in the way those real tool to educate tourists about Mailing address: people see tourism and its impor- the Palestinian culture and heri- Joint Advocacy Initiative tance. But also show that new ini- tage as well as our traditions and The East Jerusalem YMCA tiatives and ideas to market the Oc- values. Tourists can come and go P.O. BOX 19023 cupied Palestinian territories (OPt) with some beautiful picture in East Jerusalem are in place. mind about place visited. They can also come and leave having a dif- Editor: In the last few years, many Pal- ferent idea that might lead to some Ibrahim Hannouneh estinian organizations working in engagement with the Palestinian tourism including the private and cause. This is dependant of the Sections of articles may be used public sectors have raised their tourist personal interests but also freely, but please contact the edi- concern on how to make tourism on the program and the people the tor before reproducing a whole ar- not only a tool for economic devel- talk to. ticle. Articles express the opinions opment but also as a tool of cultural of the author and do not necessar- exposure and ethical engagement Tourism can be a tool to bring at- ily reflect the opinion or policies of to support the Palestinians in their tachment between the tourist and the Joint Advocacy Initiative. pursuit for freedom, peace and jus- not only the holy shrines and his- tice. For such purpose many NGOs toric sites in the oPt, but also with Desgin & Printing: developed pro- the Palestinian people and their Rai House of Art grams that include encountering cause and concerns. It can also be Beit Jala - Palestine Palestinian people at different lev- an advocacy tool that creates inter- Tel: +972 2 274 0713 els. national advocates who work for Fax: +972 2 277 0743 the self determination of the Pal- E-mail: [email protected] A Code on Conduct on Tourism estinian people and for peace with www.rai.com.ps was also issued by the Palestinian justice. The work on this area has Initiative on Responsible Tourism started. Still there is much to be (PIRT) as a result of much work done mainly on developing a uni- JAI Joint Advocacy Initiative locally and internationally of the fied vision among the Palestinian theme of Justice Tourism. A new touristic sectors concerned and a The East Jerusalem YMCA initiative is also being developed plan on how to work locally on de- 29 Nablus Road among Palestinian NGOs address- veloping the roles of such sectors P.O.Box 19023 ing the importance of cultural, to serve realizing this vision. East Jerusalem Tel: +972 (0)2 6286888 Fax: +972(0)2 6276301 hanks for all those who contributed T YWCA of Palestine to this edition. Ibn Jubeir Street P.O. Box 20044 We wish you a joyful reading. East Jerusalem Tel: +972 (0)2 6282532 JAI team Fax: +972(0)2 6284654

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2 CONTENT...

Tourism and Peace-building in Palestine: Are we on the right tour? 4 By:Adithya Joseph and Timothy Connerton Ecumenical Coalition On Tourism (ECOT)

Difficulties facing tourism and Pilgrims in Palestine 6 By Marika Mikulak – JAI volunteer with Mr. Majed Ishaq.

Alternative Tourism in Palestine: The other side of the story 8 By: Rami Kassis Director of the Alternative Tourism Group (ATG)

An interview with Mr George Abu Aita 12 Paradise - Bethlehem By: Ibrahim Hannouneh - JAI

Guide perspective Leading tourists into Palestine and the Holy Land 14 By: Wofgang Wittrock, Ph. D.

An electronic interview with Mr. Anwar Shomali 16 General Director of Anastasias Tours in Bethlehem and an experienced .

Tourism and Economy in the occupied Palestinian territories 18 Survey carried out by Marika Mikulak and Rahel Dette – JAI volunteers

Which Country Is Bethlehem In?! 20

The Code of Conduct for Travellers to the Holy Land 22

3 Tourism and Peace-building in Palestine: Are we on the right tour?

By:Adithya Joseph and Tim- Interpretations of peace building othy Connerton are viewed through the context of Ecumenical Coalition On specific conflicts. Tourism in Pales- Tourism (ECOT) tine can play a role in peace build- ing largely by creating economic Jerusalem – Bethlehem terminal When tourists journey to an un- stability and an environment of understanding. Tourists can play a along the way, a major source of stable region, the perceived risk angst to walled-in Palestinians. of injury and incident increases role in reaching out to the unheard, giving a voice, and connecting the Likewise, foreigners do not grasp tenfold. The stigma attached to the real nature of the security any given “danger zone” focuses two worlds of difference. Through an international presence of shar- “fence” as they pass through a gate a tourist’s concerns on surviving within a matter of minutes, while and avoiding confrontations and ing hope and concern to people caught in conflict, tourists can be a Palestinians might get held up for incidents. While certain risks must hours while making the same trip. be considered, it’s unfortunate that force in lighting the fire for people in both parties to end hatred and These are very important aspects these might be the only thing trou- of the Israeli – Palestinian conflict bling a person’s mind as they trav- conflict, and rather desire to work towards peace. that need to be understood from el through a place like Palestine. the Palestinian perspective if peace It is the goal of many alternative building is to occur. tourism groups to work beyond the Tourist-Centered Tourism tourist-centered sightseeing and Another Tourism is Possible question, how can this trip instead Currently, tourism in Palestine does not reflect a fair and just contribute to the much needed Given these engrained aspects of a peace and well-being of the local model of tourism, and might fur- ther contribute to conflict. Many typical pilgrimage to Palestine, an population? Indeed, the potential alternative tourism model is made for peace building through tourism circumstances of the political con- flict have shaped tourism in Pales- more difficult, but yet, is possible. has become an important area of Tourism can be a tool for peace exploration, especially in conflict- tine into a very narrow experience. Israeli security checkpoints moni- building. ECOT’s media state- ridden Palestine. In very practical ment for peace in Palestine and Is- ways, tourism can be a tool for tor and regulate all activity inside Palestine, controlling movement rael further points to questions that peace building when a vision of tourist would benefit to ask, such peace in Palestine is at the fore- and duration of stay in Palestine. These high levels of control and as, “Why are the arrangements front of a tourists’ mind. The pres- such that pilgrims end up staying ence of a vision of peace depends restriction often encourage tour- ists to purchase accommodation at Israeli places of accommodation largely on one factor: choosing the but are discouraged from using right tour. in Israel, and only enter Palestine for a few hours a day. In some Palestinian to the detriment cases, tourists are encouraged by of the Palestinian economy?, Is it their Israeli guides to buy souve- defensible that pilgrims are bused nirs (such as carvings from olive in and out of Palestine in Israeli trees) from Israel, rather than from vehicles with little opportunity for Palestinian merchants. Such direct interface with the local Palestinian and indirect forces unjustly direct population in turn denied access to revenues away from the Palestin- tourist income? How reliable are ian economy which should benefit the material and advice provided from hosting these tourists. Rather, to pilgrims by Israeli tourism with Israeli tour companies and hotels regard to the Palestinian people? largely reap the benefits from the Do they reinforce negative stereo- 1 tourist industry. types of Palestinians and Arabs?” If these questions are posed to pil- Moreover, pilgrims are not pre- grims in a non-offensive manner, sented with the realities of injus- it would plant the seeds of a more tice and oppression in Palestine. just tourism. On their brief trips to sites such 1“Israel, pilgrimage tourism, and Palestine” Con- as Bethlehem, attention is rarely tours, Newsletter of Ecumenical Coalition On Tour- ism, v19, drawn to illegal Israeli settlements 2. Pg. 22, June-July 2009

4 The Code of Conduct for Tourism in the Holy Land, developed by the Palestinian Initiative for Re- sponsible Tourism, with the col- laboration on international groups such as ECOT, is another helpful guideline.2 It calls for tourists to be mindful of the issues facing Pales- tinians before embarking, to make trips beneficial and educational, and to use the experience gained Tourists at the Holy Sepulture Church - Jerusalem by sharing information with their friends and relatives. The Code Going further, tourism might As we conversed over meals to- should be required reading for emerge as a peace building tool gether, the initial “us versus them” agencies and groups orga- if the unordinary were to become stereotypes eventually gave way nizing travel to the Holy Land. ordinary tourists. World leaders, to understanding. We spoke about especially US leaders pledging our various and they spoke These sources provide a good ba- for peace initiatives are in greatest of occasional detention in Israeli sis for tourism as a tool for peace need of a wider understanding of prisons when they dare to travel building, finding the right tours conflicts, and tourism can provide outside the wall. As college stu- that direct resources to the Pales- this. Palestinians should urge those dents, we spoke of our aspirations tinian economy. That encourages directly involved in the peace of great jobs promising money and pilgrims to spend their money in building efforts to become ordi- a comfortable life, while our Pales- Palestine on , accom- nary tourists, subject to the internal tinian counterparts simply joked as modation and merchandise. The reality of Palestine. Furthermore, a they embrace their futures as “pro- stimulation of business is a natural friendly and educational exchange fessional card players.” While our result that Palestinians have a right of tours should be conducted be- Palestinian peers were achieving to benefit from. As a tourist, it is tween Israel and Palestine in order an equal level of education, this a responsibility to assure that your to break the hostile attitude, and was not an instant ticket to success purchasing power is directed to the gain a more accurate image. for them as it was perceived to be hosts of each visit. by us. Sadly and almost as a shock Lessons from a Firsthand Ex- to us, our peers at Al-Quds had al- Discovering a Common Hu- perience ready accepted and embraced these manity through Tourism tough realities. The authors are reminded of their The “right tour” encourages direct academic tour to Israel and Pales- During our brief stay in Palestine, interaction with the local popula- tine provided by a University study we were able to build common tion, exposing their internal real- abroad program. While staying in ground, joke about bad American ity. Such interactions would give Jerusalem, we were permitted en- movies, and shed our stereotypes Palestinians a chance to share and trance inside the West Bank only of the ‘other’. They shared with portray their daily lives, rather than for a few hours. Based on their as- us their time and stories of the sad be turned into headlines of news- sessment of the risks, the American inequalities; we left them with im- papers that perpetuate the world's insurance company responsible for proved understanding of our com- negative stereotypes of them. As our group of foreign students al- mon humanity and the promise to previously mentioned, a different lowed us just a brief visit into the share their story. For many on our sense of awareness is fundamen- occupied territory. Unfortunately trip, the peace building process did tal and necessary if peace is the this is true of most guided tours in not end there, as we went home objective. Tourism can be a tool this conflict area, and it was some- and shared the stories, the images for this if visitors are encouraged thing our mostly American group of the wall, the sad reality that is to ask themselves questions and understood and accepted reluc- simply embraced, and the distress- keep an open mind to seek out the tantly. ing presence of illegal settlements. answers. It’s the responsibility of We continue to hope similar ex- tourists to break, and not continue Though we initially sought to stay changes will build future under- the stereotypes within the conflict longer our visit still proved to be standing and a shared urgency for as portrayed by the media and by meaningful. In addition to visit- peace. holy site tours. ing several holy sites, we spent the majority of the time with peers Adithya Joseph is on the staff of 2 “The Code of Conduct for Tourism in the Holy Land” at Al-Quds University, predomi- ECOT. Timothy Connerton assists Contours, Newsletter of Ecumenical Coalition On nantly attended by Palestinians. ECOT in a voluntary capacity. Tourism , v19, 1. Pg. 24, March- April 2009

5 for political reasons. But this niche Difficulties facing tourism market is getting bigger. Currently, in all Palestinian cities there are non-governmental organisations and Pilgrims in Palestine and tour operators specializing in ‘unclassical’ tourists such as po- litical groups, solidarity groups, or Interview by Marika Mikulak – stay with us, sleep with us, eat with groups interested in the nature or us, to get to know us better without youth exchanges. This is a posi- JAI volunteer with Mr. Majed any restrictions, without any walls. tive sign as we do not care about Ishaq. In addition, it is very important mass tourism with people coming for us to host tourists in order to only to see the Nativity Church in Acting Director General of Mar- build bridges of understanding be- Bethlehem and then going back to keting and the Acting Director tween different nationalities. The Israel. We want them to stay here General of Licensing, Tours and world is more open now than in longer. Even if we do not gain good Professionals in the Ministry of the last century, so there is a good income from them, we get a lot of Tourism and Antiquities opportunity for that, and Pales- support and sympathy. This gives 29 September 2009 tine is working very hard to build us an incentive to keep looking for such bridges. And lastly, tourism our state, for peace in this country. is important for us to promote and market our belief in peace, and Do you have any evidence our struggle to gain independence. that a certain percentage of visitors to Palestine engage Do you see their presence afterwards in advocacy ini- as important? tiatives?

It is very important. Yes, when we, as the Ministry of Tourism, participate in national MADo you have statistics on how tourism exhibitions worldwide, we many internationals come to meet a lot of people that have vis- the OPT? ited Palestine, especially solidarity groups. They organize activities in What role do the internation- Last year we had approximately their home countries to support and als play in the Occupied Pal- 800,000 tourists visiting mainly to create greater awareness about estinian Territories (OPT)? Bethlehem, Jericho, and East Je- Palestine and the Palestinian case rusalem. This year we will get and struggle. By talking to people First of all, they support us in terms between 600,000 and 650,000 that you meet here and abroad you of creating job opportunities for tourists. It is less this year be- discover that the image of Pal- the Palestinians, especially in this cause of the war in Gaza, and estine and Palestinian is chang- difficult time when we have high also because of the economic ing for the benefit of our people. unemployment rates all over Pal- crisis and new virus of the flu. estine. They also bring with them What do you do to encour- and spend foreign currency here. Do you have statistics on age internationals to come Yet, the most important thing is how many of them are tour- to the OPT and to stay here that they come here and they get ists/volunteers/workers? for longer? to know Palestinians; their culture, history, and archaeology; so they Actually we do not have exact sta- We use different tools to raise get a clear picture of the place, the tistics. Usually, you get them on awareness about Palestine and its situation, and how the Palestin- the borders. The problem in Pal- touristic products. First of all, we ians live and suffer. Most of the estine is that we do not have any take part in twelve national tour- people know about Palestine and control over our borders and the ism exhibitions. Furthermore, we Palestinians from the TV, so they passage to the area since Israel is address the private sector and me- get the image of Palestine from the controlling it – the Ben Gurion dia; we distribute materials about context of the Palestinian – Israeli airport, the Rafah crossing, and so the tourism to Palestine and Pal- conflict, thus from the political forth. So the kind of data that we estinian products, concentrating point of view. Consequently, they collect is through the tourist police. not only on the archaeological and don’t know Palestine and Palestin- They only gather general informa- religious sites, but also on the Pal- ians in reality. So when they come tion, so we are not able to say that estinian hospitality and culture. By here, they have an opportunity to this percentage of tourists is here the end of this year, we will have

6 our website in seven languages. By The borders and the movement of do not want to use tourism to send the end of next year we will have tourists and professionals working political messages. We try not to four information centres in differ- in the tourism industry are all con- get deeply into politics, but we do ent Palestinian cities to assist tour- trolled by Israel. From the begin- talk about the reality we are living ists coming here. Also we have a ning of the second intifada Israel in, the obstacles and difficulties long term plan to create tourist at- attempted to damage the Palestin- facing Palestinians. tachés in our embassies all over the ian tourism industry: three hotels world to follow up with the travel in Bethlehem were shelled. We do not want to create a picture agencies and the media there, to that the conflict is affecting tour- take part in activities related to They realized that since establish- ism in Palestine. We keep our dif- tourism, to make advertisements in ment of the Palestinian Authority ficulties and problems inside our the media, and so forth; yet it needs and the Ministry of Tourism (1993) society as we try not to discourage a lot of effort and big budget. We and the freedom of the Palestinian people from coming here. We are also use electronic press releases to private investors to invest in the careful in approaching different send news and figures to all tourist Palestinian tourism industry till the groups depending on the type of agents in the Middle East region. year 2002, we had $900 million the people we are dealing with. Soon we will have a new, very pro- investment in the tourist industry fessional DVD about tourism in from the private sector, apart from While talking to religious groups, Palestine which will be screened in the public sector investment. They we do not go deeply into politics, different international televisions. found that if they leave us and the our struggle and suffering; but while investors free to invest in Pales- talking to other groups, who know How is the image of Pales- tine, we will get a good percentage the details about the situation, we tine changing? of the income from the tourism to speak very freely about the politi- the area. Currently, because the cal situation. So it depends on what Most people know Palestine from Israelis have power and control, kind of people you are approaching. what they see on the TV and 99% of they are really achieving some of this is to do with the conflict, strug- their policies. For example, in the Do you have any local proj- gling during the intifada, throwing year 2000 we had 10-12% of the ects to raise awareness stones, etc. This kind of image af- income from tourists coming to the about the situation among fects tourism to Palestine as people historic Palestine (Israel and Pales- internationals in Palestine? believe that it is dangerous here. tine), now we are getting mere 3%. This is a critical point for travel- In the Ministry of Tourism not, lers as they have to be 100% sure It is very hard for us to work in but we work together and encour- that they will be safe in their des- this unstable environment. Just age these NGOs and tour operators tination. Since they are watching imagine that you have a plan for dealing with alternative tourism, incidents like the war in Gaza and three years, then you have politi- like Alternative Tourism Group. others on the daily basis, they think cal incidents, like incursions or in- Luckily, the number of these orga- Palestine is dangerous. So we try to vasion, and you have to give it up nizations is increasing. They have convince them that it is the oppo- and start planning again. It is im- networks worldwide and they re- site. And when eventually tourists possible to have long term plans, ceive many political groups who come here, they discover that what so we try to plan in the short term. want to learn about the situation. we were talking about is the reality; and later on they resend this mes- Our role as the Ministry is to be sage further to people they know. an umbrella for the private sec- tor and we do not want to take What kind of obstacles do the role of the private sector. you face in attempting to make more people come to In our press releases and on our the OPT? website we concentrate on the po- litical issues in Palestine, but we The first thing is the occupation. It do not make it the only message. is one country – historic Palestine Some people are very sensitive to – where you have two governments political issues so sometimes you and two private sectors on each Does the Ministry of Tourism can make a negative impact by side and each one is trying to get aim at raising awareness talking about it. a bigger piece of cake. The Israeli about the current situation in private sector is using the govern- the OPT among visitors? But it is a part of our trategy to cre- ment to put obstacles in front of ate a political awareness among the Palestinian tourism industry. Of course, but at the same time we internationals in Palestine.

7 that their visit is contributing posi- tively to the local communities and Alternative Tourism in Palestine: local development.

The other side of the story Tourists who wish to be a part of the Alternative Tourism movement This situation has emerged as many seek to challenge a commercially By: Rami Kassis tourists start to realise that the tour based structure of tourism ground- Director of the Alternative operators have much to gain from ed in the pursuit of pure profit. The Tourism Group (ATG) deliberately concealing the reality aim of is to redefine tourism in or- of the countries which they visit. der to recapture its original spirit of There is a growing movement These companies interest is to keep connecting people together, build- throughout the world that is based the tourist away and to surround ing solidarity among peoples and on tourists’ demands for better un- them with a Wall in order to fulfil forming a vehicle of intercultural derstanding of the reality of the their imagination. This is found all exchange. In Palestine challenging countries and regions they visit. over the world, yet in the context this commercial structure is partic- As opposed to simply seeing the of Palestine, these companies are ularly relevant because commer- aspects of a country that have been serving the interests of maintaining cial companies which do tourism specially presented for tourists to Israel's public image in the light of wholly for profit tend to ‘follow view, some tourists now also want criticism about how the state treats the money’ and adhere to Israel's to gain insights into the less com- the Palestinians. ideological tour guiding agenda. fortable aspects of the sites and societies they encounter on their In Palestine as well as in small There is no doubt that Palestine trips. places elsewhere, tours are de- has been affected by the negative signed to isolate the tourist from trends in tourism. Mass tourism Furthermore, many tourists have the social, cultural, political and begun to demand that their visits has for a long history proven to be economic context. However, as an imperialist enterprise which has actually contribute positively to a respond of these kinds of tours, local communities and local devel- perpetuated Western and colonial many tourists have started to re- stereotypes of people in the de- opment. In these respects there is a quest that their tours should be de- veloping world. To make matters desire by tourists to go beyond the signed to look above those walls in worse, Palestine has to constantly attractive images and texts of tour order for them to understand and operators and promoters. Tourists explore the realities of the coun- cope with the fact that it is being are becoming aware of the fact that tries they are visiting, as well as to occupied and colonized. In many these images are just part of the think about the negative aspects of cases, resistance to this occupa- story - or the truth - of the country their trip. Many tourists have start- tion has been unfairly described in they are visiting, and that the other ed to ask for something different, the mass media as terrorist activ- side is always hidden from view. for real experience that guarantees ity. Israel has kept this racist image

JAI Journey for Justice Program 2009. Source: JAI 8 of the Palestinians alive while still personal relationships that only it is the location and theatre of one cashing in on the emotional and person-to-person interaction at the of the world’s most longstanding spiritual needs of people every- grassroots level can produce. Once conflicts, the resolution of which where to visit the Holy Land. It has people have seen Palestine and be- could define how world peace it- therefore kept the industry within friended Palestinians, justice tour- self can be brought about. its control, while actively work- ists, eco-tourists, and even main- ing to prevent Palestinian tourism stream tourists (such as pilgrims), However, Palestinians have been operators from flourishing. This, can return to their countries in pos- denied the chance to accurate the however, is only typical of the session of the knowledge so long full socioeconomic benefits from global tourism industry. The pow- denied them by Western stereo- their natural, historical, and cul- erful use the levers of the industry types and by the mainstream me- tural endowments. This is due to rake in benefits while trampling dia, and begin to teach others what to the fact that conventional tour over social, cultural, and economic they know. programs focus on sites inside Is- rights. rael, and exclude those located in It is clear and obvious that tourism the Palestinian Territories. The If Palestine is to take its rightful has an extremely important role to majority of tours are arranged, in place on the world map as a sov- play in building a country’s image. most cases, by and through Israeli ereign and democratic state, the It can be one of the key instruments agencies who provide only Israeli world must recognize the legiti- in developing positive perceptions guides following the clear instruc- macy of the Palestinian story of of Palestine internationally and an tions to avoid Palestinian areas and dispossession and occupation at essential element in preserving and people. The tourists in this case are the hands of Israel, and hold Israel enhancing national and local pride given only one day to visit Bethle- accountable for the violations of and spirit, whilst contributing to hem, East Jerusalem and in some international law that it continues the health of its cultural institu- cases Jericho, while the rest of to commit. Alone, the Palestinians tions and heritage. their trip is spent in Israel proper. will be unable to find their freedom, This experience to many tourists, found a viable state, or develop a In other words, tourism must, in especially Christian Pilgrims, does strong economy. Like so many op- every context, and particularly in not gratify their passion for the pressed peoples, Palestinians need the context of Palestine, cease to Holy Land and, therefore, some- the support of individuals and civil be devoid of a sense of social re- times come short from fulfilling society institutions from across the sponsibility. The place travelled their long life dream to feel the world to achieve their goals. to must be seen within the wider Holy Land and not just see it. context in which it exists. In the Advocates of alternative and jus- case of Palestine, tourism cannot Moreover, the result of the Israeli tice tourism believe that the best be kept any longer to the confines occupation during the last decades way to establish support for this of emotional and sentimental site caused the Palestinian sector to is through the development of seeing while avoiding the fact that suffer from the lack of an adequate

JAI Campaigns officer guiding international youth visitors site seeing. Source: JAI 9 infrastructure, the absence of plan- tinian Territories. The tour pack- side of these communities. Inter- ning, deficiency in tourism policy ages developed in accordance with action with Palestinians helps to formulation, difficulty in initiation the goals of Alternative Tourism break down the negative image of vital promotional activities and should be designed to cover the that the media disseminates and insufficient number of Palestinian socio-cultural aspects of the local that interaction also promotes re- working in tourism industry such community to better convey the spect for the local communities. as guides and agencies compared current situation. Visitors are given the opportunity to the Israeli one. to have a first-hand experience of In Palestine, the need for an alter- the occupation and to better un- Despite all constrains which pre- native tourism that uncovers the derstand the situation. vailed during the last years the reality of the occupation is particu- Palestinians entrepreneurial spirit larly pressing. Tourism that allows The main goal of Alternative- towards tourism has never less- for human encounters has shown Tourism development in Palestine ened. Alternative Tourism is one that the transforming power that should be to ensure the sustain- entrepreneurial quest which aims such travelling can have for both able economic, social, cultural at deepening the understanding hosts and guests. Alternative meth- development of the area, whilst of visitors to the Holy Land of ods of tourism encourage people to also ensuring the welfare of the the lives of the indigenous people tell their stories to the world and Palestinian people. In order to there. Therefore, the mechanism enable tourists both to see with create this new tourism industry pursued by the Alternative Tour- their own eyes the difficult living in Palestine, the following con- ism to achieve its goal is, simply, conditions of their hosts and to dis- cepts must never be far from the to spend more time in the Pales- cover the rich cultural and human mind of either the organisers or the participants;

• The Israeli monopoly of Pal- estinian tourism, specifically pilgrimages, must be chal- lenged. This can be achieved through outreach to the Chris- tian churches of the world and the media. It is also important to ensure the continued coop- eration of visitors once they have returned to their home countries. For example by speaking in churches, pro- moting the idea to friends and through writing articles for the media.

• The direct benefits of tour- ism, both cultural and eco- nomic, must be able to reach the Palestinian population as a whole. In order to achieve this alternative tourism op- erator must ensure that they reach out to the local com- munity and constantly push to find new ways to integrate more and more families and individuals into their pro- grams.

• The international churches must be reached not only Internationals and locals in East abroad (as mentioned above) Jerusalem through alternative but also through their local tours. Source: ATG branches in Palestine. The

10 idea that churches can sup- that the alternative tourism sector tionally and an essential element in port their local congregations use these concepts as a guiding preserving and enhancing national by becoming more integrated light for honest self evaluation. and local pride and spirit, whilst with the growing alternative contributing to the health of its cul- tourism sector must be pro- In a country like Palestine where a tural institutions and heritage. moted within Palestine. The small population has the potential formation of a church related to welcome a vast number of tour- In Alternative Tourism, it is neces- tourism network is the best ists, these policies and processes sary to concentrate on the political method of achieving this. In must be integrated with the fabric realities of the conflict and to try this forum Alternative Tourism of government as well as com- to understand them. Only by living operators can discuss commu- munity for the overall develop- what Palestinians experience all nity needs and participation ment of the country. This general the time can a visitor come to rec- as well as encouraging the framework must include a cultural, ognize the injustices that are their churches to reach out to their social, economic, environmental, daily bread. With this understand- sister branches abroad. educational, administrative and in- ing comes a desire to try to help frastructural policy. end the accumulated injustices in • Code of conduct for both par- Palestine: the constant humilia- ticipants and operators must be Palestinian tourism has not yet tions, colonization and settlement promoted in order to guarantee been able in any way to exploit its building, the refugee situation and that the Alternative tourism enormous potential for attracting the dramatic consequences of the sector will not betray its prin- international, local and regional growing apartheid wall, human cipals and will instead achieve tourists. The current state of the rights abuses and other realities its goals. Although this code Palestinian tourism infrastructure of the highly institutionalized oc- should not be seen as a holy is incompatible with the tourist at- cupation. writ, it is important to establish tractions available. There has been broad guidelines that ensure a tragic absence of planning in the Alternative Tourism can facilitate that neither the visiting or lo- tourism sector because of 42 years cultural dialogue, harmony and un- cal participants are exploited. of occupation. derstanding among people. More in-depth knowledge of other peo- • All alternative tourism opera- Tourism in Palestine has been an ples' culture will stimulate under- tors must be politically aware Israeli monopoly since the estab- standing and a wish to co-operate. and educated enough to be lishment of the State of Israel in The creation of a positive image able to challenge the ‘War on Palestine. Palestinians are often for a tourist destination, making it Terror’ rhetoric that is argu- discounted as “Arabs” or branded better known both in the world in ably the most damaging and as “terrorists” in order to justify general and in the target markets of misleading concept in modern the occupation and colonization tourism specifically, will effective- ‘East-West’ relations. Through of Palestine. In this way, Israeli ly help to increase the demand for workshops and the circulation tourism in the occupied territories all products and services, includ- of publications, all tour guides has served as one more means of ing tourism services and products working in the sector must ignoring the basic rights of the Pal- of the country in question. understand the importance estinian people, especially of their of promoting the similarities right to resist, to benefit from their Alternative tourism is already be- between peoples of ‘East and own resources, to maintain their ing established in Palestine from West.’ This should instead cultural heritage and to be freely the grass roots up. In order for this be replaced by a narrative of employed and mobile in seeking to continue however, the demo- ‘haves and have nots’ which that employment. cratic participation of both the allows people to feel that the Palestinian people and the tour- problems of the modern world Although, the Palestinian tourism ists themselves must be developed are shared by all common peo- sector has not witnessed consider- and guaranteed. With this in place, ple. able growth since 1967, due to the Alternative tourism will help to restrictive policies imposed by the create a new economic and social Taking these concepts to the point Israeli occupation authorities, Al- paradigm between the ‘consumer where they are well established ternative Tourism in Palestine has tourist’ and the local being ‘con- throughout the industry is no small the potential to be one of the main sumed.’ task. Without them, however, Al- pillars of the Palestinian economy. ternative tourism will slowly slide Therefore, Alternative Tourism into resembling its more ruthless has an extremely important role to and profit concern counterpart - play in building and developing a mass tourism. It is therefore vital positive image of Palestine interna-

11 An interview with Mr George Abu Aita General Manager - Paradise Hotel - Bethlehem by Ibrahim Hannouneh - JAI come from. Pilgrims mainly come through Churches and Church re- lated offices.

I attended a conference/workshop Israeli army tanks at the Paradise Hotel parking - 2002 on tourism a few days ago and the Most of the time I am not permitted statistics show that many tourists to! We are not allowed to interfere who come nowadays are Europe- in the tourist’ groups’ programs or ans, mainly from Eastern Europe - give any information. around 13% and around 11% Ital- In the end, this hotel is my fam- ians. Whereas very few Americans ily business and we do not want to come, around 2-3%, and the same lose groups and cooperation with for British and Germans! agencies. We have many staff and this business provides income for Very few groups come for alterna- many families here, hence we un- Do you have any idea about tive tourism or solidarity groups fortunately need to prioritize main- the percentage of tourists come through very few local or- taining relations and business with who stay in Bethlehem com- ganizations some of which include agencies over delivering a political pared to those who stay in the Alternative Tourism Group, message to tourists! Israel? YMCA-YWCA Joint Advocacy Initiative etc. Once we had an exhibition at the Not more than 10%! Whereas more hotel with pictures of the hotel un- than 60% of the tourists and inter- Do you see tourists' perspec- der fire, set by the Israeli tanks in nationals who enter Israel come to tive and mentality changing 2002. The agencies we deal with Bethlehem. The majority of tourists over time with changing po- and the tourists groups asked to stay at a hotel in Israel. This is due litical conditions? remove it. Most tourists were not to various factors including: num- even interested in looking at them ber of hotels available in the Beth- Around 90% of the tourists or pil- or even hearing the story! lehem area, where around 2000 grims whom I have met at the hotel rooms are available, compared to know nothing about the conflict or What political conditions between 50 to 60 thousand rooms what is going on or even that Beth- (checkpoints, financial cri- that are available in Israel! Infra- lehem is part of Palestine! Most sis, wars...etc) affect the structure is another factor in terms are not even interested in knowing. number and kind of tourists of streets, restrictions on move- This usually depends on the tourist who come and stay in Beth- ment and going to and from Je- agency that sets the program and lehem? rusalem, available and schedule for them such as whom to buses…etc. Nevertheless, around meet, where to go and what to fo- At some periods, the number of 30% of the hotel’s running costs in cus on! The guide, even the Pales- tourists decreased due to intense Israel are subsidized by their gov- tinian one, has to be committed to political and security conditions ernment. This is not available from the program and instructions given and changes. For instance during the Palestinian government, which by the agency, so as not to lose his the Hamas take over of the gov- is dependent mostly on interna- job! He is usually not permitted ernment, many tourists were afraid tional funding and subsidies! to talk about politics or to explain to come. Nevertheless, decreases or to show how the occupation af- were noticed during the War on What kind of tourists stay fects realities. Such instructions Gaza in 2009, the start of the sec- in Bethlehem and through come from counter agencies at the ond Intifada 2000 (Palestinian whom do they come? tourists’ respective countries that uprising), Gulf War 1991, War on the program tourists have signed Lebanon 2006…etc. No tourists or They are mainly pilgrims who up for. very few tourists could manage to come through tourist agencies come in during severe curfews and and offices in Palestine and Is- Do you talk to tourists and try sieges in Bethlehem which used to rael, who have co-operation with to change their perspective last for more than 40 days! agencies and offices from the re- or understanding of the con- Besides this are international crisis spective countries where pilgrims flict and life in Palestine? that sharply reduce the number of

12 Tourists harassed by Israeli soldiers at checkpoint – Hebron. Source: JAI

travelers and tourists almost ev- Do you have any further while that is not the fact. Many did erywhere including the Swine Flu, related missing points you not used to know where Palestine financial crisis…etc. would like to mention? was and confused it with Pakistan! Many also think that we are still Are you optimistic about the Palestinian, Arab and International riding horses as our main means of future? Why or why not? Media are still weak in delivering transportation! Others feel unsafe the correct image about Palestine. coming to Palestine, thinking that No I am not! There are no politi- I believe they should play a big- the Palestinians are terrorists and cal solutions or stability on the ger role in this. Although we are that they will be killed! horizon! A war might be launched under occupation with its practices against Iran or again against Gaza, and movement restrictions, people or a third Intifada (uprising) seems from around the world should be to be about to rise in the West Bank educated on these real conditions against the Israeli occupation and and safety and life in such condi- practices. All this would definitely tions! We hear from tourists that affect the number of tourists, as it they used to think it is an ongoing is strongly related to political sta- war in Palestine, with shootings bility and security. all over and it is unsafe to be here,

13 Guide perspective Leading tourists into Palestine and the Holy Land

By: Wofgang Wittrock, Ph. D. courtesy we heard “Deutsche gut! speech at the U.N., as well as polit- Hitler gut!” Shivers went down ical acceptance of the PLO would My first journey to the Holy Land my spine; this still happens today have been entirely unimaginable! took place in 1970, as part of my when I hear such colloquialism on Likewise were the negotiations in training for rectory in the Protes- Palestinian grounds. (Even though Madrid, which gave new hope for tant Church. As a young theolo- I now know that least of the people a far end to the conflict, and even gian, for me this was not a docile truly grasp what Hitler Germany a peaceful and tranquil neighbor- pilgrimage, but rather a means of stood for - he was against Jews in hood. It followed the unexpected tracing ostensive links to Bibli- any case.) breakthrough of the Oslo Accords, cal theology and its background and finally a way out of the politi- of historically critical demystifi- The Palestinian people as a dis- cal-moral-emotional dilemma of a cation. We were all enthusiastic tinct political reality (as opposed ‘friend of Palestine,’ who did not about the opportunity to freely to the diffuse uneasy category of want to become an ‘enemy to Is- visit sanctuary sites, to bathe in the plain “Arabs”) only fully came to rael’ seemed to be coming about. I Mediterranean and Dead Sea and my awareness after the terrorist at- viewed this too uncritically, as did to encounter people of different tacks at the Olympics in Munich many of my kind, taking this as an biographical, ethnic, religious and in 1972, as well as several assaults indication for peace at last. political backgrounds. and plane abductions. By now, I had seen the problems of the Israe- Both of my succeeding trips to the We were aware that all this was li occupation much more clearly, HOLY LAND were at about that “thanks to” the Six-Day War in even though its condemnation was time: the turn of the year 1994/95 1967 - only a few years back. We counteracted by Palestinian ter- and January 1996. In each, the did not, however, reflect this in its ror assaults (embodied in Arafat). character of political investiga- controversy, namely, that the great However, can, and even must, a tion and the encounter of people, new freedom of Israel was on the people threatened by terror not de- clearly dominated over touristic expense of the people in the con- fend itself? Such cautious assess- and biblical motives. This how- quered and occupied territories. ment of Palestinian resistance to ever inevitably diluted our hopes Contrarily, to us the Israelis collec- the Israeli occupation in Germany for peace: People in both Palestine tively were like the admired David, is present even today. I believe this and Israel were much more skepti- defying the threatening Goliath of to be the result of the devastating cal than Germans. It became more the Arab world (who was embod- experiences of my generation, wit- and more clear, that the underly- ied in the Egyptian president Nass- nesses of the Holocaust: It would ing problems, were nowhere near er). While I personally had refused have to be a truly “clean” resis- a solution. Instead, these had been to serve in war and disdained mili- tance, without external violence postponed to “final status” negoti- tary violence, I saw myself power- nor repression within it, to be met ations. In particular my second trip less to apply this conviction to my with thorough approval. was overshadowed by the assault view on Israeli politics. on Rabin in November 1995 and a The first Intifada towards the end terrible series of suicide attacks in For this, I saw Arabs as too hos- of the 1980’s seemed to very close- the fall of 1996. tile, which I came to feel very per- ly resemble this ideal, even though sonally when my wife and I took stone-throwing children and youth, What became clear: inner-society’s a bus to Nablus (which back then, and especially death-bringing resistance against the peace process even though known to be danger- fighters, did strain my tolerance. I was much stronger than vigor for ous, was possible). We were recog- was more relieved when Palestin- it, among both the Israeli and the nized as foreigners, and once some ian resistances refuted fighting and Palestinian people (even though approached us and learned that commenced diplomatic dispute. this came from a small more vigor- we were German, as a notion of Only a few years before Arafat’s ous minority on both sides). With

14 the election of Netanyahu, Israel’s became a priority for me. In Oc- option to try overnight visits). We “no” to an equitable peace and a tober 2003 we went under the title also engage in services in church, two-state solution moved to of- “Learning Target: Dual Solidarity” meetings of Christian communi- ficial politics. Even Barak’s - elec (the aim was to signalize how soli- ties, festivities, concerts… Particu- tion could not change this, who’s darity with the Palestinians is not larly special are those times, when incumbency had its tragic peak in to be confused with a generalized we can contribute to to gatherings, the Camp David summit of 2000. condemnation of Israelis; it is to be rather than just being consuming. Whoever had not resigned until accounted for with the honest and For example, for New Year 2008 this point, did with the irrevocable essential concerns of both sides, in in Bethlehem, we organized a day mandate of Sharon and the out- the eyes of the other). More trav- for our group and local families: we break of the Second Intifada. Its use els were pursued in October 2004, had a service, joint dinner, home of armature further counteracted May 2006 and 2007, the change of visits, as well as a final shared con- acceptance of Western “friends of years 2007/08 and April 2009. The cert in the Nativity Church. In ev- Palestine.” Arafat’s inability (and next journey is planned for Octo- ery instance, it matters to truly be possibly even reluctance) to un- ber 2010. involved in life, which also means, dermine Palestinian terror attacks, experiencing joy and social gather- made his sad death in the bombed Naturally, the theme “Solidarity” ings, as well as giving something Mukata almost seem inevitable. for our trips was extended in each back. Solidarity is not a mere dec- journey, while it does remain con- laration, but also means sharing a As the topic of peace, the interest stitutionally in all the travels that piece of life and giving strength and for journeys to Israel and Pales- I guide. Along with this, I want to hope. tine also froze: repeated advertise- avoid becoming subject to the pa- ments could not gather enough ternalistic danger of a benevolent Finally: It became a personal prior- participants to form a travel group. attitude of solidarity. Such is in- ity for me, to remain conscious, that (Of course this was also due to expensive for those of us that re- despite it being such a troubled and the increased risk of witnessing turn to our peaceful mid-European torn area, the region we travel to is violence.) Paradoxically, it was the home, after only a week. Neither after all the HOLY LAND. By no re-occupation of the West Bank do I want to pursue voyeurism of means does this have to be reflected by Israelis militia in April 2002, sordid to those in Palestine, nor in unpolitical pilgrimage and ar- that brought about a turnaround, tourism of outrage to Israel. I find chaeological tourism, but the holy maybe because it had especially it ominous when someone pro- sites and biblical transmissions from affected our parochial partners in claims his or her “omniscent” po- the Old and New Testament always and around Bethlehem. With our litical and moral views and blames give incentive to think about the motto “Travel of Solidarity Jeru- everything seen and experienced present connection to the episodes, salem” we could appeal to many in the Palestinian territories on the the place has witnessed before. The people - particularly those in the Israeli occupation (even though Dominus Flevit opposite the Old Cit “Jerusalemverein” (a German as- the occupation undoubtedly is the of Jerusalem and the word of Jesus sociation supporting Evangelical fundamental problem of the situa- in Lucas, 19, 41ff always represent Christians in the HOLY LAND) tion). Instead, it is much more im- an important example of this. Even and could organize a trip for No- portant to me, to learn the tender though the doubt of historical “real- vember 2002. We wanted to pass affection and bond to experiences ness” always are a reason for me our message to our partners in the and estimations of the people we to challenge the mere, good-willed Palestinians parts of Jerusalem but meet. Partly I also want to encour- following of facts towards a more also peace-friends in Israel: “Even age critical questioning. Ultimate- proximity to reality for today. if at this point, there seems to be ly however, it is usually sympathy, no way out of this dead-end road condolence, sorrow and perplexity Beside the biblical sites, I see sig- - persevere, we are on your side; which remains. In this respect, I nificance in the diversity of the with our visit we want to show return enriched and animated from area, in all its facets of beauty and you: You are not forgotten by the each journey - but also mentally paucity, along with the human im- world!” and emotionally strained. pact in this country - in both, the honor of the Old City Walls and The feedback was overwhelming: I find it equally important to in- the monstrosity of the Separation Almost anywhere we went, peo- stead of only spending time in ster- Wall. Here I feel new blessing and ple would greet us with the same ile seminary and church rooms, ac- creational gratification, but also the word: “You are the first group in tually participate in people’s lives. scream for salvation and grieve for over two years” - their joy and This comprises attempting to walk new creation. gratitude often left me with a feel- by foot rather than only taking the ing of embarrassment. Since then, bus, as well as visiting schools, After all, these journeys to me are the continuous realization of such taking part in classes, and staying a travel into the TRUTH OF THE trips for encounter and solidarity, with local families (it could be an HOLY LAND.

15 An electronic interview with Mr. Anwar Shomali

the number and attitude of press their disappointment and of tourists coming to the Beth- course disagreement and some of lehem area and Palestine in them start to look at the situation general? here through a different perspec- tive. It is obvious that since the closures and the construction of the wall, Do you give alternative tours the number of tourists coming in to showing and explaining Bethlehem has decreased notably, about the Palestinians life especially US citizens, who are conditions and effects of the told beforehand that the Palestin- occupation, and do tourists ian territories are not safe and that love and prefer such tours or their does not cov- prefer only the religious his- er them if they go into those areas. torical ones? Do you know Besides, the harassment that some why or have you ever asked tourists are subject to at the check- tourist groups why? points entering and leaving Bethle- hem such as security checks, long We are handling religious-cultural Mr. Anwar Shomali is the queues, checks, even po- groups, coming mainly on Pil- General Director of Anasta- lice dogs check-up etc. also deter grimage to visit the Holy Places sias Tours in Bethlehem and visitors. that recall the life of Jesus and the an experienced tour guide. establishment of the First Church. The closures have also affected the The program they are follow- The following questions where work and delivery of our Palestin- ing does not include any political answered by him. ian guides who are subject to secu- items, although this subject can be rity checks every time they go out discussed during the tour, but in a Your experience as a tour to receive their groups and further- moderate way. guide: more they are forbidden to go out when there is a general closure on Are you free, to some ex- My experience as a tour guide has the territories . . . . . tent and permitted to give not been a long one. I obtained the information to tourists as you General License, although, it was The hotels, shops, restau- want regarding Palestine, not my major aim. I guided several rants and consequently all business or are you, and usually tour Groups from 1996 till 2000, but it related to tourism, have been af- guides, restricted with the was during my free time. My main fected by those procedures of clo- given schedule, set by part- work was in the office doing all land sures and the wall. ner travel agencies, on what arrangements for our groups. On to say or not to say? Why? the other hand, my experience as How has the tourist’s mentali- a , specialized in the ty and perspectives changed I have to say that we do not have religious-cultural tours, goes back with days (how was it before, any kind of restrictions set out by to 1979. I have also participated in how has it developed and our partner agencies, but we prefer several courses to improve my his- how is it today)? to fill our program first. The kind torical and archaeological knowl- of tourist we are used to handling edge in the Stadium Biblicum in The tourist is part of the internation- are middle aged (from 60 upwards) Jerusalem (1988-1989), the Span- al community. He/she hears news and their main interest is purely re- ish Institute of Biblical Research and he/she is aware of the problem ligious, although, as I mentioned in Jerusalem (1990-1991) and the we are experiencing in this part of before, political, social, religious Bible College (1995-1996). the world. In my opinion, western and economic issues could be dis- mentality does not approve of the cussed easily without any restric- How did the blockades, closures, barricades, walls (that of tions on the guide. closures, checkpoints and Berlin) and when they see the wall political conditions affect surrounding Bethlehem, they ex-

16 Guided tourist group – just outside the Church of Nativity - Bethlehem

Do you try to affect tourist must educate in a right way those quently is visited by people from perspectives on the politi- «Ambassadors» as they will be re- those religions. As natives of this cal situation ( advocating or sponsible afterwards to present the land, we have the duty to respect making supporters or believ- right image of Palestine, thus cre- and help our visitors, making their ers ) and how effective do ating a strong solidarity in favor of touring as easy as possible, keep- you feel you are? our country. ing them away from the conse- quences of the internal conflicts. Tourism is a direct means of com- Do you have other related We all should give them facilities munication with different cul- information or perspectives, and not create obstacles for them. tures. Our Tour Operators, Guides, points or comments? Their stay among us should be a Bus Drivers, Hotels, Restaurants, memorable one so that they can Souvenir Shops, Vendors are the I would like to send a message come again and send more people inter-mediators and ambassadors to all those concerned with Tour- to our country. Tourism is a strong who are relaying, through their ism in the Holy Land: This Land means to economical stability and jobs, the picture of Palestine to is considered sacred by the three which will eventually lead to po- those cultures. In my opinion, we monotheistic religions and conse- litical stability as well.

17 Closed shops at Shuhada Street - Hebron.

Tourism and Economy in the occupied Palestinian territories

Analyzed interview Usually, a tourist bus arrives in the product purchased by the people by Marika Mikulak – JAI centre of Bethlehem and parks in from their group. volunteer – with Louis - a the close proximity of the Nativity shopkeeper in Bethlehem Church – undoubtedly, the main at- Undoubtedly, these big shops can- traction. Since the time for visiting not complain about the lack of Due to its millenary history and re- the site is extremely limited, tour- business. Buses full of tourists, ligious significance, Bethlehem at- ists are shown around the Church, who are willing to purchase olive tracts masses of tourists annually. come back to the bus straight af- wood or mother of pearl products In any other place, tourism would ter and drive away. Only approxi- from the birthplace of Jesus, stop be a driving force for the economy mately 60% of all tourists stand a regularly by them. Unaware tour- and the main source of income chance to visit the Milk Grotto – ists incur prices twice as high as in for the local population, in other recognized as a second attraction other shops since they must cover words like the goose that lays the - located on the street parallel to not only the cost of production, but golden eggs. Indeed, around 80% the Nativity Church. There is lit- also the high commission. of its population is employed in erally no time left to walk around What about dozens of small shops tourism, not because they are able the remarkable Old City in Beth- in the Bethlehem Old City? What to earn their living this way, but lehem, to stop by at Palestinian are their takings? due to the lack of other options; restaurants, to try the local falafel the unemployment rate amounts to or drink Arabic coffee, to purchase They hardly get any business. 30% in the West Bank. Tourism in from local shops, and so Those shops located closer to the Bethlehem presents its own unique forth. Instead, the group is taken to Nativity Church, or to be more pre- patterns; it is like an organized sys- one of a few big souvenir shops in cise on the way from the Nativity tem, which excludes some and in- Bethlehem where the tour guides Church to the place where buses cludes others. manage to obtain up to 35-40% usually park, have definitely more commission from every single chances of getting some business

18 Closed shops in Bethlehem - near manager square. Photo by: JAI volunteer.

than those in the Old City. The raeli-run) and come exclusively to in Israel and the Palestinian Terri- customers of these disadvantaged see the Nativity Church for about tories by the , one is shops are mostly locals and a few 20-30 minutes. In 2007 for in- advised to go on an organized tour internationals that volunteer or stance, merely 15% of the 509,980 to Bethlehem from Jerusalem rath- work around the Bethlehem area. visitors to Bethlehem stayed over- er than travel on their own. This is night in the city.1 This pattern com- despite the fact that travelling from “Tourists come for half a day from bined with the Wall, checkpoints Jerusalem to Bethlehem is easy Jerusalem or even Sharm-el-Sheik. and other movement restrictions is and inexpensive. They visit the place in a hurry. destroying the hotel and souvenir They don’t spend much money industry in Bethlehem. All in all, both tourists and those here; they don’t go to restaurants excluded from the system largely here. They visit only one big sou- “As such, it is much easier to visit lose out. The former because they venir shop. For them, Bethlehem is Bethlehem as part of a tour group do not have a chance to experience like a bus station where one stops that can be bussed in from Israel life in the Occupied Palestinian only for a short while to see the controlled areas and bussed out Territories and leave the Middle Church” – an owner of the shop on again, receiving preferential treat- East with their unchanged points the way to the Milk Grotto states. ment at the checkpoints.”2 of view and the latter since they struggle to make ends meet. Prior to the second intifada (the Pal- Guidebooks do not offer any help estinian uprising) that broke out in toward encouraging tourists to stay 2000, Bethlehem streets were full in Bethlehem and the West Bank of tourists who, unlike today, were as a whole for longer. For instance, staying there overnight. Today, 1. Stop the Wall Campaign (2008, pg: 18) “Devel- they fill hotels and guest houses in opment or normalization”. Accessed at http://www. stopthewall.org/downloads/PRDPcritique.pdf. Jerusalem (almost all of them Is- 2. Ibid, pg: 19.

19 Nativity Church – Bethlehem, Palestine

WHICH COUNTRY IS BETHLEHEM IN?!

Survey carried out by Marika under the Israeli occupation, all might not even realize that Bethle- Mikulak and Rahel Dette – passage of peoples in and out of hem is not in Israel. At the end of JAI volunteers the Territories is controlled by Is- the day, the city where Jesus’ birth rael. This means that the only of- took place is a stone’s throw away, The situation in the Occupied Pal- ficials that he will encounter on the merely 10 km, from Jerusalem. estinian Territories (OPT) is com- border with Jordan or at the check- plicated, unclear and confusing points are Israelis. Consequently, people tend to for both tourists and pilgrims. The get confused and many ask mainstream media does not neces- Eventually, he buys the ticket to themselves: ‘Where is this Pal- sarily provide people with unbi- Israel. Upon arrival at the Ben Gu- estine that people talk about?’ ased information that would help rion Airport in Tel Aviv he is sub- in creating a clear image of this ject to invasive and interfering Is- The results of the survey conducted part of the world. raeli control. He should never dare in front of the Nativity Church in say that he is planning to go to the Bethlehem of 50 respondents from Imagine that an average person West Bank as it may cause, in the 22 different countries and from decides to visit the Holy Land. best scenario, some delay (see an- different age groups confirm the Firstly, he has to buy a flight ticket. other article). Most tourists direct confusion and lack of awareness When he scrolls down the options their steps towards a must-see city, of tourists to the Holy Land. When of airport names on the airlines namely Jerusalem, and usually asked which ‘country’1 Bethlehem website looking for Palestine, he from there go on a day trip to Beth- is in, a portion of the respondents cannot find anything as there is lehem. Since the line between the seemed visibly hesitant and did not no functioning airport in the OPT. State of Israel and the West Bank is really like the question: The only options remaining are ei- not clearly demarcated and check- ther Amman in Jordan or Tel Aviv points are located inside the West 1. The word ‘country’ is put in brackets as Palestine in Israel. Bank rather than on the interna- is not a recognized state. The correct term is the Oc- cupied Palestinian Territories. Yet, in spoken language Furthermore, since the OPT are tionally recognized border, tourists the OPT is referred to as Palestine.

20 ‘What country? fact that one in four people call dents answered positively, while Is that a tricky question? their homeland Israel is undoubt- 12% either skipped this question or I don’t want to answer that edly sad. But when one looks at said that they had not spent enough survey again’ – one respondent maps provided by any national time in the place to ascertain that. stated. park, , hotels, and informa- tion centres in Israel, neither West ‘If I had known we would come to Clearly, the question was problem- Bank nor Gaza is marked on them. Palestine, I wouldn’t have come. atic and not straightforward. While Therefore, it is understandable that I would be too scared. The media the majority of the respondents people get confused. shows it in this way. But now, when (76%) realized that they were in I am here, I feel very safe and I am Palestine, the remainder (26%) be- The respondents were also asked glad I came’ – one respondent trav- lieved that they were still in Israel. about their opinion on the levels of elling on an organized tour stated Some of them were fully convinced security and their feelings on their that their answer was correct: trip to Bethlehem before coming Not everyone has time and is in- here. The majority (66%) stated terested enough to follow the news ‘In Palestine, ha ha [laughter], no, that they were not worried and they from the alternative sources. The in Israel of course’ did not expect it to be dangerous. majority rely on the mainstream Still, the remainder (34%) claimed media which clearly fails to pro- ‘My husband thinks it’s not in Is- the opposite: they were worried vide a real picture of the current rael, but it is definitely in Israel’ and thought it would be dangerous situation in the OPT. As a result, to visit Bethlehem. When asked if stereotypes and wrong images For the Palestinian people, the they feel safe, 88% of the respon- have been created.

21 The Code of Conduct for Travellers to the Holy Land the 1967 war. As a result of the lat- is to visit both Israel and Palestine A Palestinian Initiative ter Israel occupied the West Bank, rather than chose to visit just one or Responsible and just forms of tour- including East Jerusalem and the the other. This is the route towards ism offer communities opportuni- Gaza Strip. These events have cre- more fairness and justice. ties to share their cultures, tell their ated catastrophic political, eco- stories, request solidarity and foster nomic and social facts which have Tourism in Palestine provides tour- tolerance and greater understand- deeply affected the life of the Pal- ists with a particularly rewarding ing. This is the principle that has estinian people, most of whom be- and enriching experience. Not only shaped this Code of Conduct which came refugees. In many ways Pal- may the tourist discover the beauty has been developed to inform pil- estine itself was simply wiped off and hospitality of the country but grims and tourists of the reality of the map, historic Palestine coming also come to encounter some of the Palestine and Palestinians and to to be known as Israel. In this con- political, economic, and social facts seek their support in using tourism text tourism became a political tool on the ground that shape the daily to transform contemporary injus- in the supremacy and domination of lives of Palestinians. This is as it tices. At the same time, the Code the Israeli establishment over land should be for much can be gained aims to raise awareness amongst and people and an instrument for – both by tourists and by their Pal- Palestinian tourism stakeholders preventing the Palestinians from estinian hosts – from a proper rela- of how tourism in Palestine can be enjoying the benefits and the fruits tionship between the two. Too often transformed and enhanced to truly of the cultural and human interac- the contact is very slight, consisting benefit both hosts and visitors. tion and encounter that tourism of rapid, coach driven, visits to the thrives upon. Despite the fact that Nativity church in Bethlehem (with The Context of Palestine Israel signed the Oslo Agreements a souvenir shop on the way) – a style with the PLO in the 1990's and rec- of tourism that derives from the fact The establishment of just and re- ognised the establishment of the that much of itinerary is controlled sponsible tourism for Palestine Palestinian Authority to administer by Israel and the processes of the Is- and Palestinians requires an un- some of the Palestinian territories, raeli tourism industry. Our Code, on derstanding of political context namely the West Bank and Gaza the other hand, seeks to contribute and history – for it is these that set Strip, many areas of life in those to a more general effort to re-engage the constraints and barriers within areas are still under Israeli con- the tourist with Palestinian land and which Palestinian tourism has to trol. For example, Israel controls people in such a way that will ben- operate. The Code addresses these all access to Palestine (land and efit local communities, reduce over directly – and, by doing, so at- sea borders as well as access from exploitation of a small number of tempts to overcome them. the airport), most of the Palestin- iconic sites, and also reduce the Palestine is a unique tourist des- ian water resources, all movement pollution that derives from coach tination, its long history, religious of people and goods from, to and driven mass tourism in the Pales- significance and natural beauty within Palestine. These facts have tinian towns and cities (especially making it an amazing place to significant impacts on the develop- Bethlehem). visit. Palestine's importance de- ment of tourism in the Palestinian rives partly from the fact that it is territories and the dissemination of Therefore, we urge you, the tourists, home to the three monotheistic and information to tourists. Jerusalem to consider visiting the Palestinian Abrahamic religions of Judaism, as the heart of tourism was ille- cities, towns and villages and to Christianity, and Islam. gally annexed to Israel, filled with allow time for encounters with the Every year it attracts many pil- illegal settlements, besieged, sur- population living in these places. grims, people of faith and scholars rounded by the Apartheid Wall and We believe that in this way, tourism who visit the holy places. Secular checkpoints, denied free access will realise its potential for both you tourists come to explore the histor- and is now isolated from its social and us. At the same time, we call on ical sites, Palestine's vibrant cities, surroundings. the local community to interact pos- rural life and nature reserves. itively and in a respectful way with Despite all this, the touristic, his- pilgrims and tourists and to renounce However, since the beginning of toric, and holy places found in Is- small-mindedness and exploitation the 20th century Palestine has rael and the Palestinian territories of visitors. We should all remember passed complicated political cir- are united. They cannot be separat- that visits by tourists to the country cumstances. These have included ed from each other. In this regard are opportunities for cultural, social the creation of Israel in 1948 and what we are asking tourists to do and human exchange.

22 can be offensive. this way, you can strengthen the Preparation • Make sure that you encounter human side of tourism and en- To prepare your trip to Pales- and engage with the local com- hance its benefits to communities tine, we encourage you to con- munities who are struggling for and individuals. sider including the following in the respect of their dignity. your preparation: • Support communities in a re- 11. Share your experience: sponsible way, without encour- 1. Choose an inclusive and bal- aging them to change their cus- • Think of creating links between anced itinerary that allows you toms in order to adopt yours. your community and the com- to visit and stay in different • When visiting holy sites, allow munity you visited. places. members of the respective reli- • Tell the stories of the people you 2. Educate yourself by reading gious community to guide you. met. guidebooks, travel accounts and • Discuss and debrief with other articles about current news and 7. Your use of natural resources: members of your group (if you events. travelled together with others). 3. Establish contact with Palestin- • Co-operate with locals in con- • Share with your family; inform ians to get up-to-date informa- serving precious natural re- your community; write articles. tion about the current situation, sources. Commit yourself to a safety and local history, culture moderate use when possible. 12. Stick to the commitments and customs. • Be open to experience local you made during your trip: 4. Approach travelling with a de- standards rather than expecting sire to learn rather than just ob- to find the same conditions as in • Remember the promises you serve. Leave prejudices behind. your home town and/or country. made to the local people you met and honour them. 8. Support the local economy: • Keep the people in your Your trip thoughts, pray for them and act Adopting a considerate attitude • Appreciate local expertise by when your actions are needed. towards the people you encoun- paying adequately. ter, the environment and host • Buy local products. 13. Allow yourself to be en- communities when travelling • Contribute to ensuring that tour- riched by learning experienc- in Palestine helps to make sure ism has a beneficial outcome for es: that your trip is beneficial both the local community. for you as a tourist and for the • Use local transportation, guides, • Question your stereotypes/gen- hosts. , restaurants and markets to eralisations, both the ones you benefit the local economy. Con- had before the trip and the ones 5. Your attitude: sider giving tips where custom- emerging from your experience ary. abroad. • Respect and learn about the lo- • Address prejudices and injustice cal culture. Although taking 9. Remember that the people you where you meet them. pictures is in general welcome, encounter have lived under mil- be aware of people's sensitiv- itary occupation for many years. 14. Take action: ity about being photographed: Be sensitive when discussing always ask first for their ap- related topics and listen to their • Learn about the involvement proval. points of view. and responsibilities of your • Observe local customs. Respect home country in the Middle local dress codes and dress mod- 10. Be inspired by the pil- East. Expose and confront them estly. grim's journey: take your time when they have been unfair. • Interact and spend time with lo- to live and experience the daily • Address statements you do not cal people. Be aware that your life of the local people. agree with, such as inaccurate cultural values may differ from tourism brochures, stereotyped theirs. They may, for example, Returning home views of Palestine in conversa- have different concepts of time, tion and inaccurate or biased media portrayals. personal space, communication When you return from Palestine and society. They are not wrong do not hesitate to share your ex- or inferior, just different. periences with friends and rela- Confront statements you don't 6. Your behaviour: tions. Your Palestinian hosts will agree with, e.g. in tourism bro- • Be aware of short-sighted emo- be very happy to know that you chures, etc. tional reactions – such as giving keep them in your mind and that money out of compassion. This you tell their and your stories. In

23 It is the Israeli policy to obstruct and prevent tourists and interna- tionals from getting into the occupied Palestinian territories. Many of who are suspected as Palestinians' supporters, are rejected entry and deported from the airport and other boarders!

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