DOCSLIB.ORG

Textile Sizing

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Textile Sizing 2 PROPERTIES OF FIBERS AND YARNS 2.1 INTRODUCTION The utilization and serviceability of textile materials, other than industrial or technical textiles, are determined by their physical and mechanical properties, which include softness, pliability, good handle, feel, and drape [1]. The pliabil- ity of a textile structure is attributed to the fact that it is composed of a number of individual elements, commonly referred to as yarns. These yarns are made up of either staple or filament fibers, having sufficient degree of freedom of movement within the fabric structure without causing distortions. The softness and pliability of textile fabrics are due to this freedom of movement of constitu- tional elements, i.e., the fibers and yarns. The yarns are generally formed by twisting a bundle of fibers together. Though the process of twisting generates transverse pressures to prevent slippage of fibers, especially in staple yarns under axial tension, the yarns still retain flexibility because of the inherent flexibility of textile fibers. Obviously, it implies that the properties of textile structures will depend substantially upon the properties of fibers, which are the true building units. The process of woven fabric manufacturing is neither simple nor accom- plished in one step. The conversion of raw materials (fibers) into finished products (fabrics) involves many different steps, broadly categorized as spin- ning of a yarn, weaving of a fabric, and finishing. Each of these steps in turn involves many intermediate processes to perform well-defined specific functions. The process of spinning staple yarns involves preparatory steps such Copyright © 2004 Marcel Dekker, Inc. Properties of Fibers and Yarns 19 as opening and cleaning of cotton fiber stock, or only opening for synthetic fibers, optimal blending of different fibers, carding, combing, drawing, and twist insertion. The process of weaving is preceded by preparatory steps of winding, warping, and slashing (more commonly known as sizing). The processes of spinning and weaving have undergone many develop- ments due to the proliferation of high-speed production technologies. In to- day’s market-based economy, the scale and speed of spinning and weaving operations are decisive factors. The quality of yarns and warp preparation processes, such as winding, warping, and sizing, are prerequisites for the suc- cess of newer high-speed weaving technologies. To keep pace with changing weaving technologies, the process of sizing and ingredients used for sizing have also changed. The success of the sizing operation, on which the success of weaving and to some extent the quality of woven fabric are based, is influ- enced by the quality and properties of the warp yarns. Before discussing the process of sizing it is important to know the properties of fibers used in the making of various types of yarns. The fiber type and characteristics have a profound influence on the geometry and other properties of staple yarns spun on various spinning systems [2]. The mechanical behavior of staple yarns is strongly dependent on the properties of the constituent fibers and their disposi- tion in the body of the yarn [2]. 2.2 FIBERS A staple fiber is a long, thin, and flexible material, very similar to human hair, having macroscopic dimension along its length but microscopic transverse dimension [1,3]. The ratio of length to thickness of fibers, defined as slender- ness ratio, is usually of the order of 1000 and above [3,4]. The inherent attri- butes of flexibility, fineness, and a high length-to-width ratio of fibers make them suitable for producing soft and flexible fabrics. The ease of converting fabrics into garment greatly depends upon the ability of the fabrics to conform to three-dimensional shapes such as the human body. Table 2.1 illustrates the typical dimensions of some natural fibers. Besides slenderness ratio, the other most important property of textile fibers is elasticity. The breaking extension of an ideal textile fiber should be between 5 to 50% depending upon the actual end-use application [5]. The extensibilities of glass and crystalline solids are below 5%, and those of rubbers are above 50%, which makes them very difficult to process during subsequent spinning and weaving operations. These fibrous materials having suitable ex- tensibility for successful textile processing are all partially oriented, partially Copyright © 2004 Marcel Dekker, Inc. 20 Chapter 2 Table 2.1 Length-to-Diameter Ratios of Natural Textile Fibers Fiber Typical length (mm) Typical diameter (␮m) Slenderness ratio Cotton 25 17 1500 Wool 75 25 3000 Cashmere 40 18 2200 Mohair 55 28 1900 Flax 25 20 1250 Jute 2.5 15 170 Hemp 40 25 1600 Ramie 150 50 3000 Source: Refs. 4 and 5. crystalline (usually linear polymers), and similar to some naturally available cellulosic and protein fibers. 2.2.1 Classification of Textile Fibers Textile fibers are broadly classified into two major groups: (1) natural and (2) manmade, depending upon the nature of their origin. Natural fibers still account for a major share (some 45%) of the total textile fiber consumption around the world. The term ‘‘manmade’’ applies to all fibers that include those regen- erated from natural products as well as those that are synthesized from basic chemicals. There are a variety of texts dealing with the general classification, properties [4–7], and chemical compositions of textile fibers and the synthesis of manmade fibers [7,8]. In recent years, the original list of manmade fibers has been supplemented by a variety of newly synthesized fibers, engineered specifically for high performance end uses, such as aramid, polysulfide, and polybenzimidazole to name a few. Table 2.2(A) gives the classification of textile fibers [4–9]. Natural fibers are further subdivided into (a) animal, (b) vegetable, and (c) mineral. The fibers from animal sources can be further subdivided into silk, wool, mohair, cashmere, and hair. Vegetable fibers are subdivided into (i) seed fibers (e.g., cotton); (ii) bast fibers (e.g., flax, hemp, jute, and ramie); (iii) leaf fibers (e.g., manila, sisal, and abaca); and (iv) fruit fibers (e.g., coir). Manmade fibers are divided into two main categories, as shown in Table 2.2(B): A. Natural polymer fibers in which the fiber-forming polymer is of natural origin, referred to as regenerated fibers. Copyright © 2004 Marcel Dekker, Inc. Properties of Fibers and Yarns 21 Table 2.2A Classification of Fibers Fiber Natural Manmade (See Table 2.2B) Animal Origin Vegetable Origin Mineral Origin (Asbestos) Silk Wool Hair Seed Origin Bast Origin Leaf Origin Fruit Origin Cotton Flax, Jute, Hemp Sisal, Manila, Henequen Coir Kapok Kenaf, Ramie etc. Abaca, Pineapple Source: Refs. 4–9. Copyright © 2004 Marcel Dekker, Inc. 22 Table 2.2B Classification of Manmade Fibers Manmade Fibers Natural Synthetic Synthetic Polymer Polymer Polymer (from natural origin) Polylactic Acid (PLA fiber) Regenerated Regenerated Celluose Miscellaneous Polyesters Polyamides Polyurethanes Polyvinyl Polymerized Synthetic Polysulfide Polybenzimidazoles Miscellaneous Protein Celluose Esters (alginate, (PET, PBT (nylon 6, (spandex) Derivatives Hydrocarbons Rubber (polyphenylene (PBI) (carbon, (casein, vegetable (viscose, (cellulose natural PCDT, nylon 6.6, (polyethylene, sulfide) metallic, etc.) protein, etc.) cuprammonium) acelate) rubber) etc.) aramids, etc.) polypropylene) Fluorine Chlorine Cyano Hydroxyl Substituted Substituted Substilution Substitution (PTFE) (vinyl alcohol) Monosubstitution Disubstitution Monosubstitution Disubstitution (vinyl chloride (vinylidene (acrylics) (vinylidene & derivatives) chloride) chloride) Source: Refs. 7–9. Copyright © 2004 Marcel Dekker, Inc. Chapter 2 Properties of Fibers and Yarns 23 B. Synthetic fibers in which the fiber-forming material(s) is from basic chemicals. There is now also a new class of synthetic fibers, those produced from material derived from a natural renewable origin, such as corn, known as polylactic acid or polylactide (PLA). Regenerated fibers derived from natural polymers are further subdivided into four groups, namely, a. Cellulose fibers (e.g., viscose, polynosic, cuprammonium rayons, and Tencel௡ or lyocell) b. Protein fibers (e.g., casein) c. Cellulose esters (e.g., acetate and triacetate) d. Miscellaneous fibers (e.g., alginate and natural rubbers) It is more convenient to classify synthetic fibers according to their chemical structure. They fall into the following ten subdivisions: i. Polyurethanes (e.g., Spandex௡) ii. Polyamide (e.g., nylon 6, nylon 6.6, etc.) iii. Polyesters (e.g., Dacron௡) iv. Polyvinyl derivatives: a. polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) b. polyvinylchloride (PVC) c. polyvinylidene chloride d. polyacrylonitrile (PAN) e. polyvinylidene dinitrile f. polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) g. polystyrene h. miscellaneous polyvinyl derivatives v. Polyolefins (e.g., polyethylene and polypropylene) vi. Polysulfide (e.g., PPS) vii. Aramids (e.g., Kevlar௡ and Nomex௡) viii. Novoloid (e.g., Kynol௡) ix. Miscellaneous (e.g., glass, metallic, carbon, and ceramics) x. Polylactic acid or polylactide (PLA) 2.2.2 Essential Properties of Textile Fibers The choice of textile fibers to be used as raw materials in a specific application depends upon a unique combination of different properties. The most essential and desirable properties may be broadly categorized as Copyright © 2004 Marcel Dekker, Inc. 24 Chapter 2 Dimensional or geometric Physical Mechanical General Table 2.3 lists various essential properties of textile fibers. Dimensional
Load more

Recommended publications
  • Spinning and Winding Taro Nishimura
    The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22 Spinning and Winding Taro Nishimura 1. Introduction Since several thousand years ago, humans have been manufacturing linen, wool, cotton, and silk to be used as fibrous materials for clothing. In 繊維 (sen’i ), which is the word for “fiber,” the Chinese character 繊 (sen ) is a unit for decimal fractions of one ten-millionth (equal to approximately 30 Ǻ), while 維 (i) means “long and thin.” Usually, fibers are several dozen µ thick, and can range from around one centimeter long to nigh infinite length. All natural materials, with the exception of raw silk, are between several to several dozen centimeters long and are categorized as staple fibers. Most synthetic fibers are spun into filaments. Figure 1 shows how a variety of textile product forms are interrelated. Short fibers are spun into cotton (spun) yarns, whereas filaments are used just as they are, or as textured yarns by being twisted or stretched. Fabric cloths that are processed into two-dimensional forms using cotton (spun) yarns and filament yarns include woven fabrics, knit fabrics, nets, and laces. Non-woven fabrics are another type of two-dimensional form, in which staple fibers and filaments are directly processed into cloths without being twisted into yarns. Yet another two-dimensional form is that of films, which are not fiber products and are made from synthetic materials. Three-dimensional fabrics and braids are categorized as three-dimensional forms. This paper discusses spinning, or the process of making staple fibers into yarns, and winding, which prepares fibers for weaving. One-dimensional Two-dimensional Three-dimensional Natural Staple fibers Spun yarns Woven fabrics Three-dimensional materials Filaments Filament yarns Knit fabrics fabrics Synthetic Nets Braids materials Laces Non-woven fabrics Films Fig.
    [Show full text]
  • And Interdisciplinary Nature of Textile Design Research of Linseed Fibres
    Multi- and interdisciplinary nature of textile design research of linseed fibres Tiina Härkäsalmi* and Ilpo Koskinen** Aalto-University, School of Art and Design, Department of Design Hämeentie 135 C, 00560 Helsinki, Finland *e-mail: [email protected] **e-mail: [email protected] Abstract: In the future there will be an increasing need for renewable, recyclable and environmentally safety fibres, which are compatible with existing, cotton-based textile manufacturing technologies and are competitive on price and quality. In this study as a raw material the linseed fibres are used, which is almost an unexploited resource for high value end uses. This paper describes a multidisciplinary design study that consisted of three parts, a microbiological study that devel- oped a Fusart®-method for cottonizing linseed fibres, a production model study aimed at showing how the fibres could be processed in an industrial scale, and a fibre quality evaluation study. In practise it means that lustrous and soft fibres, light coloured can be produced cost-efficiently and environmentally-consciously for textiles and potential for producing high-quality bio-based mate- rial with tailored properties. Keywords: design research, material research, fungus, textile design 1. Introduction The objective of this study is to explore the suitability of linseed elementary fibres in new textile and technical applications and creating prerequisites for product design and productization. The study is based on a multidisciplinary approach to the use of flax elementary fibres where, rather than tradi- tional long-linen textile processing technology, short-fibre methods are employed. Special attention was paid to the quality requirements of rotor spinning.
    [Show full text]
  • Basic of Textiles
    BASIC OF TEXTILES BFA(F) 202 CC 5 Directorate of Distance Education SWAMI VIVEKANAND SUBHARTI UNIVERSITY MEERUT 250005 UTTAR PRADESH SIM MOUDLE DEVELOPED BY: Reviewed by the study Material Assessment Committed Comprising: 1. Dr. N.K.Ahuja, Vice Chancellor Copyright © Publishers Grid No part of this publication which is material protected by this copyright notice may be reproduce or transmitted or utilized or store in any form or by any means now know or here in after invented, electronic, digital or mechanical. Including, photocopying, scanning, recording or by any informa- tion storage or retrieval system, without prior permission from the publisher. Information contained in this book has been published by Publishers Grid and Publishers. and has been obtained by its author from sources believed to be reliable and are correct to the best of their knowledge. However, the publisher and author shall in no event be liable for any errors, omission or damages arising out of this information and specially disclaim and implied warranties or merchantability or fitness for any particular use. Published by: Publishers Grid 4857/24, Ansari Road, Darya ganj, New Delhi-110002. Tel: 9899459633, 7982859204 E-mail: [email protected], [email protected] Printed by: A3 Digital Press Edition : 2021 CONTENTS 1. Fiber Study 5-64 2. Fiber and its Classification 65-175 3. Yarn and its Types 176-213 4. Fabric Manufacturing Techniques 214-260 5. Knitted 261-302 UNIT Fiber Study 1 NOTES FIBER STUDY STRUCTURE 1.1 Learning Objective 1.2 Introduction 1.3 Monomer, Polymer, Degree of polymerization 1.4 Student Activity 1.5 Properties of Fiber: Primary & Secondary 1.6 Summary 1.7 Glossary 1.8 Review Questions 1.1 LEARNING OBJECTIVE After studying this unit you should be able to: ● Describe the Natural Fiber.
    [Show full text]
  • PRELIMINARY TREATMENT of FIBRES, E.G. for SPINNING (⁠Winding Or Unwinding, Conducting Or Guiding Laps, Webs, Slivers Or Roving
    D01G CPC COOPERATIVE PATENT CLASSIFICATION D TEXTILES; PAPER TEXTILES OR FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR D01 NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING (NOTE omitted) D01G PRELIMINARY TREATMENT OF FIBRES, e.g. FOR SPINNING (winding or unwinding, conducting or guiding laps, webs, slivers or rovings in general, sliver or roving cans, depositing in sliver or roving cabs B65H; preparation of fibres for paper-making D21) NOTE Attention is drawn to the note following the title of Class D01. WARNING In this subclass non-limiting references (in the sense of paragraph 39 of the Guide to the IPC) may still be displayed in the scheme. 1/00 Severing continuous filaments or long fibres, e.g. 9/08 . by means of air draught arrangements stapling 9/10 . using foraminous cylinders (foraminous suction 1/02 . to form staple fibres not delivered in strand form cylinders for lap-forming D01G 25/00) 1/022 . {by solvents} 9/12 . Combinations of opening or cleaning machines 1/025 . {by thermic means, e.g. laser} 9/14 . Details of machines or apparatus 1/027 . {by freezing} 9/16 . Feeding arrangements (fibre-feeding apparatus 1/04 . by cutting of general application in fibre-treating machines 1/06 . Converting tows to slivers or yarns, e.g. in D01G 23/00) direct spinning (drafting arrangements, twisting 9/18 . Arrangements for discharging fibres arrangements D01H) 9/20 . Framework; Casings; Coverings; Grids 1/08 . by stretching or abrading 9/22 . Driving arrangements 1/081 . {with preferential breaking zones} 11/00 Disintegrating fibre-containing articles to obtain 1/083 . {obtained by mechanical means, e.g.
    [Show full text]
  • (A) Machinery, Plant, Vehicles ; (B) Construction of Buildings ; Basic Data on the Essential Characteristics of Industry Were Co
    Official Journal of the European Communities 201 13.8.64 OFFICIAL JOURNAL OF THE EUROPEAN COMMUNITIES 2193/64 COUNCIL DIRECTIVE of 30 July 1964 concerning co-ordinated annual surveys of investment in industry ( 64/475/EEC ) THE COUNCIL OF THE EUROPEAN ECONOMIC Article 2 COMMUNITY, For the purposes of this Directive, an industry shall Having regard to the Treaty establishing the Euro­ be defined by reference to the 'Nomenclature of Indus­ pean Economic Community, and in particular Article tries in the European Communities' ( NICE). 1 In the 213 thereof ; case of small undertakings the survey may be carried out by random sampling. Having regard to the draft submitted by the Com­ Article 3 Whereas in order to carry out the tasks entrusted to it under the Treaty the Commission must have at its The figures to be recorded shall be those in respect disposal annual statistics on the trend of investment of annual investment expenditure ( including plant in the industries of the Community ; constructed by the undertakings themselves), broken Whereas in the industrial survey for 1962 comparable down as follows : basic data on the essential characteristics of industry ( a ) Machinery, plant, vehicles ; were collected for the first time ; whereas such a ( b) Construction of buildings ; census cannot be carried out frequently ; whereas annual statistics concerning certain basic matters ( c) Purchase of existing buildings and of land . cannot however be dispensed with for the intervening Investments of a social nature shall , where possible, be years
    [Show full text]
  • Reference for Spinning, Dyeing and Finishing of Milk Fiber
    Swicofil AG Textile Services Gerliswilstr. 23 CH-6021 Emmenbrücke Reference for Spinning, Dyeing and Finishing of milk fiber 1. Spinning technological process (example of yarn with 163tex) Scutching A002D---A006B---A036C (card wire) Carding A186D Drawing FA302 (two lines) Roving A454G Spinning FA502 Winding 2. Main technical measure for each process 1). Pretreatment As seen in Table 1, the mass specific resistance of milk protein fiber is larger, so the pretreatment before scutching is more important. After opening bales, the milk protein fiber needs some water and antistatic agent. Based on the tests of fiber property and the choice of antistatic agents, the moisture regain of pure spinning with milk protein fiber is controlled about 16%, and the add-on of chosen composite antistatic agent is about 1%. Meanwhile, the relative humidity in the workshop is controlled within 68~70% to reduce the electrostatic influence. 2). Process of opening and picking With good uniformity and less impurity, the milk protein fiber is bulky and it is easy to open, and the friction coefficient between fibers is low, and the cohesion force is relatively weaker. Thus, the process of opening and picking should adopt the process of precise picking, less beating and low speed. During production, the height of the beater in the grab machine stretched rib is 2.5mm, and the picking should be precise and the blending should be uniform. In the opening machine model A036C, the card beater is adopted to reduce fiber damage and the constant volume of laps should be smaller to avoid neps during opening and picking so the lap quality can be stable.
    [Show full text]
  • Notes from the Flax Presentation by Bruce Engebertson April 29, 2017
    notes from the Flax Presentation by Bruce Engebertson April 29, 2017 Bruce began spinning wool at age 10, despite the fact that no one in his immediate family had any background in spinning. A chance referral led him to Ester Kromaki about 25 years ago, and she taught him the traditional Finnish techniques for growing, processing, spinning, and weaving flax. He says his linen knowledge is firmly based in the Finnish traditions and that "he doesn't know a variety of methods but the ones he knows, he knows well." The flax plant is an annual that dies in the winter. It is a "greedy" plant which will take lots of nutrients, so it's best not to plant it in soil that has been exhausted by other crops like corn. Flax is best in full sun and protected from the wind. It is relatively free from insect pests and will even keep potato bugs away (so plant near potatoes!). Prepare the seed bed by spading up the area to be seeded (in our case, approximately 3 ft by 3 ft) and adding in some cow manure or other fertilizer. Make sure the area is free of weeds when you seed. Seed flax when the lilacs just begin blooming. The seed should be spread thickly -- about 5 to 7 seeds for a thumbprint (of course, this depends on the size of your -- hopefully green -- thumb). Do not plant in rows. Divide the seeds in half and sow half in one direction and the other half if the other direction. If the soil is the same color as the seeds, you can add sand to the mix so you'll have an idea of how the seeds are being spread out.
    [Show full text]
  • Hemp for Textiles: Plant Size Matters
    Hemp for textiles: plant size matters Willem Westerhuis Thesis committee Promotor Prof. Dr P.C. Struik Professor of Crop Physiology Wageningen University Co-promotors Dr T.J. Stomph Associate professor, Centre for Crop Systems Analysis Wageningen University Dr J.E.G. van Dam Senior scientist, Food & Biobased Research Wageningen University and Research Centre Other members Prof. Dr J.H. Bitter, Wageningen University Dr B. Chabbert, UMR FARE, INRA, Reims, France Prof. Dr M.K. van Ittersum, Wageningen University Dr F.J. Sterck, Wageningen University This research was conducted under the auspices of the C.T. De Wit Graduate School of Production Ecology and Resource Conservation. Hemp for textiles: plant size matters Willem Westerhuis Thesis submitted in fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of doctor at Wageningen University by the authority of the Rector Magnificus Prof. Dr A.P.J. Mol, in the presence of the Thesis Committee appointed by the Academic Board to be defended in public on Friday 20 May 2016 at 11 a.m. in the Aula. Willem Westerhuis Hemp for textiles: plant size matters 234 pages. PhD thesis, Wageningen University, Wageningen, NL (2016) With references, with summaries in Dutch and English ISBN: 978-94-6257-787-9 DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.18174/378698 Abstract Westerhuis, W. (2016) Hemp for textiles: plant size matters, PhD thesis. Wageningen University, Wageningen, The Netherlands, 234 pp. With English and Dutch summaries. Fibre hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) may be an alternative to cotton and synthetic fibres as a raw material for textile yarn production in the European Union. The agronomic options to manipulate plant development and crop growth with the aim to optimise hemp long fibre production were investigated.
    [Show full text]
  • Scutching Mills in Normandy, France
    British Journal ofIndustrial Medicine 1988;45:325-328 Br J Ind Med: first published as 10.1136/oem.45.5.325 on 1 May 1988. Downloaded from Low prevalence of byssinotic symptoms in 12 flax scutching mills in Normandy, France F F CINKOTAI,' P EMO,2 A CC GIBBS,3 J-F CAILLARD,2 J-M JOUANY2 From the Department of Occupational Health,' University ofManchester, H6pital Charles-Nicolle,2 Centre Hospitalier Regional and Universitaire de Rouen, Rouen, Normandy, France, and Department of Community Medicine,3 University of Manchester, Manchester, UK ABSTRACT The concentrations of airborne dust and bacteria were determined in 12 flax scutching mills and in two milk processing plants in Normandy, France. A total of 308 of 340 flax workers and I1 1 of 1 3 milk processors volunteered to answer a respiratory questionnaire. Personal exposure to airborne dust in the scutching mills varied from 22 2 mg/m3 to 144 mg/m3 and areal concentrations from 8 92 mg/m3 to 47 1 mg/m3. The concentration of Gram negative bacteria ranged from 3970 (colony forming units) cfu/m3 to 67 900 cfu/m3 and that of total bacteria from 12 900 cfu/m3 to more than 600 000 cfu/m3. In all, 20% ofthe flax scutchers were found, on the basis of the questionnaire, to suffer from persistent cough and 25% from chronic phlegm production. The corresponding figures among milk processors were 3-6% and 4-5%. Unexpectedly, only 12-5% ofthe scutchers appeared to suffer from byssinotic symptoms even though they were heavily exposed to airborne dust and bacteria.
    [Show full text]
  • Dyeing and Dyeworks in Classical and Hellenistic Greece
    Coats of Many Colours: Dyeing and Dyeworks in Classical and Hellenistic Greece Thesis submitted for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the University of Leicester by Mark D. Monaghan, BA (Leicester) School of Archaeology and Ancient History University of Leicester August 2001 UMI Number: U144548 All rights reserved INFORMATION TO ALL USERS The quality of this reproduction is dependent upon the quality of the copy submitted. In the unlikely event that the author did not send a complete manuscript and there are missing pages, these will be noted. Also, if material had to be removed, a note will indicate the deletion. Dissertation Publishing UMI U144548 Published by ProQuest LLC 2013. Copyright in the Dissertation held by the Author. Microform Edition © ProQuest LLC. All rights reserved. This work is protected against unauthorized copying under Title 17, United States Code. ProQuest LLC 789 East Eisenhower Parkway P.O. Box 1346 Ann Arbor, Ml 48106-1346 Abstract Mark Monaghan Coats of Many Colours: Dyeing and Dyeworks in Classical and Hellenistic Greece In the past, craft production in Classical and Hellenistic Greece has been studied mainly from a technological or social perspective. On the other hand, the study of ancient economies has largely neglected the role of craft production in favour of issues such as the nature of ancient economies, mechanisms for the exchange of goods, and the roles of agricultural production and slavery in economic activity. In this study I hope to have redressed this by looking at dyeing activity from an economic and social perspective. I have used a range of archaeological and historical evidence to build up a picture of the way dyeing (and by extension craft production) fitted into the subsistence strategies of the Classical and Hellenistic Greek household.
    [Show full text]
  • Air-Borne Dust Conditions in British Wartime Flax Scutching Factories by Kenneth L
    Br J Ind Med: first published as 10.1136/oem.8.3.161 on 1 July 1951. Downloaded from Brit. J. industr. Med., 1951, 8, 161. AIR-BORNE DUST CONDITIONS IN BRITISH WARTIME FLAX SCUTCHING FACTORIES BY KENNETH L. GOODALL and P. J. HARDWICK From the Factory Department, Ministry of Labour and National Service, London, and the Department of the Government Chemist, Governmenit Laboratory, London (RECEIVED FOR PUBLICATION SEPTEMBER 7, 1950)- In Great Britain (excluding Northern Ireland) the flax there flies " a foul mischievous powder, that, acreage under flax had declined to 3 acres in 1931, entering the lungs by the mouth and throat, causes but it had risen to 4,500 acres by 1939. During continual coughs, and gradually makes way for the war when supplies were cut off from Europe the asthma ". acreage of home-grown flax rapidly expanded, and The dust problems associated with the conversion by 1944 was 74,000 acres. This was required to of flax into linen probably only became acute meet the urgent need for such materials as parachute during the industrial revolution, and a number of harness, ships' canvas, and hose pipes. As this was authors write about the primitive conditions in the virtually a new industry, factories had to be created to industry during that period. Thackrah (1832) deal with the home-grown crop. There were many gives a particularly full account of such conditions initial troubles as there were few people in Britain with in flax factories in the Leeds area, in which many much experience of flax processing, and the crops, young women and children of 7 to 15 years of age being new to farmers, were at first of very variable were employed for a 132-hour day in a very dusty quality.
    [Show full text]
  • REPORT of Tile HIEF of the DIVISION of VEGE
    REPORT OF TilEHIEF OF THE DIVISION OF VEGE- TABLE PATHOLOGY. SIR: Ihave the honor to submit herewith my annual report for the year 1890.As heretofore, the report embodies only a brief sum- mary of the work accomplished in this Division during the year, the details having been published in various bulletins and circulars alieady issued. Respectfully, B. T. GALLOWAY, Chief of the Division of Vegetable Pathology. Hon. J. M.RUSK, Secretary. WORK OP TH DIVISION. GENERAL BUSINESS. Under this heading may be mentionedcare of correspondence, preparation of bulletins and circulars, workon the herbarium, indexing literature, and properly classifying and filing thesame. During the year nearly three thousand letterswere received and answered, this work consuming fully one third ofmy own and assist- ants' time.The writing, indexing, filing, and generalcare of the letters requires nearly the whole time of two clerks. Since my last report the Division has published, in additionto the regular annual report, one special bulletin and fournumbers ofTHE JOURNAL OF MYCOLOGY.The special bulletin contained 120 pages and embodied the results of experiments made in1889 in the treat- ment of plant diseases.TheJOURNALcontains numerous papers, both scientific and practical, andas an important means of quickly and effectively disseminating information Ican not conceive of any- thing more useful.During the year the edition was increased 500, but such has been the demand for it thatevery number butthe last is now exhausted. The general care of the herbarium requires the workof one assist- ant, while indexing, filing, and general supervision of theliterature consumes a considerable part of the time of another.
    [Show full text]