Edition 10 • August 11 2008 € 1.00 • WEEKLY NEWSPAPER OPINION Serbia’s ICJ gambit: Naomi Wolf: confront America Pg 6 the plot PEOPLE thickens ● Britain’s Ambassador in Belgrade Stephen Woodsworth

Britain’s Ambassador in Belgrade opined perfectly legal. “In addition to our presence in the UN, that Serbia’s attempt to have the legality OSCE and other European organizations, of Kosovo’s declaration of independence Serbia’s Foreign Minister Vuk Jeremic we have participated in summits where assessed by the International Court of has publicly stated on several occasions Serbia is not a member of the organization, Justice (ICJ) is a mistake and represents that his government hopes to dissuade such as South America, the African a challenge for the EU. Legal experts countries from recognizing Kosovo Union summit, the Islamic Conference, disagree about the legality of the with a positive ruling from the ICJ. meetings of the Non-Aligned Movement declaration. Jeremic told Belgrade daily Blic that and the Arab League. We have succeeded his government is engaged in a high in holding meetings across the globe and On August 3, Ambassador Stephen priority, concerted, diplomatic offensive we have been able to maintain Kosovo as Yankee biker boys Wordsworth told Belgrade daily Vecernje around the world to prevent Kosovo’s a controversial topic at the highest level. Novosti that the British government views recognition, “Practically, we are present I think that in this way we have stopped in Kosovo Pg 12 Serbia’s ICJ gambit as a challenge to the everywhere in the world, so we can talk the efforts of those who support Kosovo’s EU’s attempts to welcome Serbia as a to as many representatives of different independence and we have prevented the member. Woodsworth described the Serb countries,” said Jeremiq. According to expansion of recognitions for Kosovo,” stratagem as, “a questionable approach,” him, Serb diplomats have insisted on Jeremiq said. Depite Serb efforts, because it brings into question, “whether being present at meetings of international Columbia and Belize recognized Kosovo FEATURE Serbia and most of the EU countries are political import to impose Kosovo as a days after Jeremiq’s boasts. going to be able to continue to work discussion topic. together as partners or if they are going to fall into confrontations.” Woodsworth stated that acceptance of Kosovar independence is not a precondition for EU membership, “The EU, as an organization, cannot ask of Serbia, as a condition of membership, something you don’t ask of existing members. However, backers of Kosovar independence will insist on Serbian Gypsy art Pg 8 & 9 capitulation on the matter as a de facto prerequisite for EU membership because applicants must have unanimous support from member states. Should Serbia manage to ascend into the bloc ARTS before Kosovo does it could use its veto to block Kosovar membership. An official at the British Embassy in Pristina, who insisted on anonymity, said the best possible solution would be for Serbia and Kosovo to join the bloc simultaneously. One of the prerequisites for EU membership is that an applicant must subscribe to the rule of law. Serbian government officials argue that efforts to dissuade them from attempting to get the matter before the ICJ is hypocritical, Arta conquering even though any verdict would be of no force. The anonymous official at the film worlD Pg 13 British Embassy in Pristina denied the charge, insisting that the declaration is

If the opening scene has a village, a dirty vehicle and commercial music, it is not necessary to put yourself into deep thought to know “ that it is a Kosovar movie.” Trinity Little at Dokufest | page 14 1 EDITION 10 THE KOSOV@ POST AUGUST 11 2008 IMPORTANT NUMBERS EMERGENCY METRO Sandwich Shop POLICE 112, 92 Garibaldi 3/1 044-113-000 FIRE DEPARTMENT 93 ROUTE 66 AMBULANCE 94 Luan Haradinaj 038-227 225 HOSPITAL 038-500-600 IMPORTANT INFO BAKERY in Pristina AIRPORT 038-548-900, 548 430 LUMI Anton Ceta 044-115 586 KEK 038-224-185 Information office 988 HOTELS in Pristina PTK AFA HOTEL Fix telephony 977 Aki Kelmendi 038-225-226 Mobile telephony 038 548 367,548 777 AMBASSADOR HOTEL Ardian Krasniqi 1 Taxi Roberti 044-111-999 038-248-300 Taxi Velania 044-225-325 BACI HOTEL Taxi VIP 044-333-444/049-665-166 Mother Theresa 038-548-356 Taxi Geti 044 111 555 GRAND HOTEL RADIO Taxi 038-22 00 11 Mother Theresa 038-220-210 GORENJE HOTEL KFOR 038-503-603 Veternik 038-557-700 UNMIK Head office 038-504-604 PRISHTINA HOTEL MOBILE (IPKO) 049-700-700 / 038-700-70 Vaso Pasha 20 038-223-284 POLICE STATION VICTORY HOTEL Station 1 038-504-604-5059 Mother Theresa 038-543-277 Station 2 038-504-604-6748 Station 3 038-504-604-6796 Hotels in Peja Station 4 038-504-604-2997 DONA HOTEL 039-34-470 THE BIG PICTURE BUS STATION 038-550-011 GOLD HOTEL 039-34-571 Life in slow motion TRAIN STATION 038 -518-449 PARK HOTEL 044-282-832 KOSOVA RAILWAYS 038-536-355 / 038-536-329 JETMIR IDRIZI WESTERN UNION 038-549-840, 044 -110 840 Hotels in Prizren DHL 038 245 545, 044 178 042 DARDANIA HOTEL 044-187-264 FEDEX 038 549 655, 044 173 219 HOLIDAY HOTEL 029-45-002 QUEEN OF THE GYPSIES TNT 038 247 247, 044 247 247 THERANDA HOTEL 029-622-292 WATER SERVICES 038-5471-211, 540 621 no other 60-year-old like an old lover MUNICIPALITY OF PRISTINA 038-230-900 dressed in baggy red pants Emma had lost her legs Hotels in Gjakova baggy red blouse her waistline NATIONAL THEATRE 038 243 930 4 YJET HOTEL 0390-27-868 looking like a two hundred pound DODONA THEATRE 038 230 623 EUROPA HOTEL 044-400-106 retired belly dancer not her punch KOSOVA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 038-224-229 / 224-741 JAKOVA HOTEL 044-236-050 could have pulled it off INTERNATIONAL Red Cross 038-249-114 lamenting in song Paul Polansky is an author, journalist and OMBUDSMAN INSTITUTION IN KOSOVA HOTELS in Ferizaj she was a 14-tear-old virgin “Agim Ramadani” 038-501-401 HOTEL KRUJA being sold human rights activist who has lived with Dardani – Ferizaj to an old man Gypsies in Kosovo for 8 years. His van became FLOWER SHOP ‘Remember me’ 038 245 345 / 044 283 344 MOTEL MANI Old kacanik who already had a wife affectionately known as the Gypsy Taxi, in 044 219 249 / 044 143 377 which he would transport Gypsies here, there RESTAURANTS in Peja MOTEL SOFRA with a black shawl covering her head and face and everywhere, especially to hospitals. The Ferizaj entrance 044 378 889 Emma not only cried out her song, ART DESIGN Center 039-431496 / 039 144-622 but made all the men stories he collected are the basis for his book CALIFORNIA Center 044-348-467 AIRLINES in Pristina in the audience cry too of poetry Gypsy Taxi Ciganski Taxi AUSTRIAN AIRLINES RESTAURANTS in Prizren Mother Theresa 038 242 424/038 548 435 SHEHZADE QEBABTORE Shadervan Square BRITIS AIRWAYS TRATTORIA DUE FRATELLIGreat italian food Airport of Pristina 038 54 86 61 A. Zurnaxhiu 10 044 198 710 EUROKOHA PHARMACIES in Pristina SHOTANI Rent a Car ‘Shefqet Shkupi’ 038 544 224 Vellusha e Poshtme 17 038 249 185 GENTIANA LUTEA Bill Clinton Boulevard - MCM Rent a car ‘Fehmi Agani’ 038 240 024 RESTAURANT in Gjakova KOSOVA AIRLINES Nena Tereze Dardania Auto Shkodra ‘Lagja e Hemshirit’ 038 541 401 RESTAURANT TE JUPAT 038 220 220 044 240 531 Know something we Old government 044-129-389 ADRIA AIRWAYS Monday - Saturday 08:00 - 21:00 / Sunday LICENSED CAR DEALERSHIPS in Pristina 09:00 -13:00 Hotel & Restaurant ROMA 044-602-009 Airport of Pristina 038 246 764 BMW - AUTO AVANGARDE 038-601-053 / 038-601-054 don’t? Do tell! Tips, leaks, BICI Boulevard I Deshmoreve te Kombit - BELLE AIR MERCEDES V.Preoce - Pristina 038-138-540 Dardania BAKI VW Vellezerit Fazliu 044-112-854 event notifications... RESTAURANTS in Ferizaj Luan Haradinaj - Garibaldi 044 393 585 | Monday - Sunday 07:00 - 24:00 RESTAURANT ROMANTIKA +290 28 28 3 anything 039 225 571 ASPIRIN Bulevardi i Deshmoreve te Kombit RESTAURANT LAUSANE 044 142 397 AIR PRISHTINA Mother Theresa - Dardania CHURCHES in and around Pristina CATHOLIC CHURCH Saint Antonia di Padova, Pristina [email protected] RESTAURANT TOPILLA 044 287 531 038 222 099 044 168 228 | Monday – Sunday 08:00 - 22:00 Don. Leke Oroshi RESTAURANT NATURAL Sojeve – Ferizaj EVI FARM Nazim Gafurri 044 652 179 Adress: Ulpiana quarter, Prishtina 044-270-001 044 205 537, 044 323 378 BANK HEAD OFFICES in Monday - Suterday 08:00 - 22:00 / Sunday Pristina 09:00 - 20:00 Procession: Monday-Saturday 18:00 | Sunday 11:00 BARS / CAFES in Pristina PRO CREDIT BANK Skenderbeu 038-240-248 APARTMENT 195 PHARMACY in Prizren KOSOVO ISLAMIC UNION RAIFFEISEN BANK UCK No. 51 038 -222-222 St. ‘Bajram Kelmendi’ 84, Pristina 038-224-024 Garibaldi 044-410-021 BANKA EKONOMIKE Migjeni No. 1 038-225-353 VIOLA PRIZREN Xhevat Berisha 029 241 620 Open 24 hours Procession: Friday 13:00 AVENUE BAR Fehmi Agani 48 04-610-210 NLB Prishtina Rexhep Luci No.5 038-234 111 LOUNGE 19 Garibaldi 19 044-208-092 TEB BANK Agim Ramadani No. 15 ENTERTAINMENT in Pristina PROTESTANT CHURCH Messiah Evangelist Church, Pristina LEGERE Perandori Justinian 2 - Peyton 038-230 000, 038-224 700 BOWLING Shefqet Shkupi 15 - Kalabria Pastor: Fehmi Cakolli Adress: Nazim Gafurri 66, Prishtina Published by: 044-221-829 BKT-Banka Kombetare Tregtare Peyton 038- 500 060 / 044-241-251 044-118-088 Procession: Sunday 11:00 ‘The Kosovo Post’ LLC MYC Garibaldi 21 044-210-325 038-222-910, 222 907 www.Bo-Bowling.com / [email protected] PHOENIX Brigada 044 12 45 84 BANKA PER BIZNES UCK No. 41 038-244-666 CINEMA ABC Rexhep Luci 038-243-117 PROTESTANT CHURCH Community of Lord People Address: PUBLICO Garibaldi 7 044 62 69 27 Sami Peja 4, 10000 Pristina, Kosova STRIP DEPO Rexhep Luci 038-222-888 DOCTORS in Pristina Pastor: Artur Krasniqi Adress: Rrustem Statovci 9, Pristina FITNESS CENTERS in Pristina 044-201-207 DERMATOLOGIST Phone: CLUBS in Pristina ‘OLIMP’ Bregu I Diellit - Pristina Equipments; Dr. DOBRUNA Shkendije, (German, English) 30 ORTHODOXY CHURCH Manastir Gracanica, Pristina 038 225 895 044 161 317 / 038 535 782 FLIRT Youth center of Pristina 049 646 464 ‘Fit In’ Dardania - Pristina Equipments: 50 + Adress: Village GRACANICA near Pristina (7km) EYE SPECIALIST Solarium + Sauna Email: CUBE Johan Hahn 2 044-124-584 [email protected] Dr. MIFTARI Adem, (German) 044 176 212 Fitness ‘PRISHTINA’ Youth Center of Pristina KATHOLIC CHURCH IN PRIZREN DEPO UCK 044-153-001 Equipments: 30 UROLOGE Dr. DERVISHI Lutfi, (German) IPESHKVIA E KOSOVES - IPESHKVI Mows.Dode Gjergi SPRAY Veternik 044-118-518 ‘GYM’ Behind Media Building - Pristina Eq.: 50 Marketing: 044 501 699 / 038 551 928 029 241 933 Prizren DENTIST Ars Debt Debtak Center (English) Ariana Osmani, FAST FOOD in Pristina 044 131 051 / 038 516 520 RENT A CAR in Pristina [email protected] BOSNA 2 INTERNIST, KARDIOLOGE Dr. BEKTESHI Tefik EUROPCAR ‘Luan Haradinaj’ 038 541 401 Mother Theresa 044-375-436 (German) Airport PR 038 594 101 Layout: BOSNA 4 Perandori Justinijan - Peyton 038-245-919 044 419 382 / 038 541 901 HERTZ ’22 Nentori’ 038 544 480 / 044 117 882 Brave Little Elephant MAXIMUM BURGER Rexhep Luci 20/1

2 EDITION 10 THE KOSOV@ POST AUGUST 11 2008 NEWS

MINORITY REPORT Paul Polansky LETTER TO THE EDITOR [email protected]

Wednesday’s municipal news included this story: “the campaign to remove street vendors from Pristina’s streets and sidewalks is ongoing. According to municipal officials, inspectors carrying out The Janjevci of Kosovo this task have not faced resistance. However, in several cases street According to Kosovo history books, the Croatian vendors re-appear after inspectors leave the scene. If caught selling town of Janjevo, 34 kilometers southeast of Pristina, It was probably at this time that the Muslim Gypsies again, municipal inspectors will confiscate the vendors’ goods.” was founded in 1303 by traders, miners and craftsmen became involved in the annual pilgrimage, even from Dubrovnik seeking a supply of coal after that taking it over in numbers when it was realized that Actually, most of us pedestrians are not too bothered by the sight coastal republic had run out of firewood. the Virgin Mary of Letnica was actually a Black of the nut sellers, corn roasters, sellers of belts and umbrellas, and Madonna. In old India, the original homeland of the what not, adding some color to the drab streets. “Not exactly true,” said Stipe Lukic, a retired Croatian various Gypsy tribes and castes now found in the goldsmith whose ancestors came to Janjevo more Balkans, their favorite deity had been Kali, the black However, I can understand the Municipality’s need to collect revenue than 700 years ago. “Although my forefathers were goddess of the underprivileged. Although the Janjevci also from Dubrovnik, they actually came to Kosovo continued their annual pilgrimage to Letnica up to the from licensing these activities because the new Law on Local Self in the 11th century. Before coming to Janjevo, my 1999 war, the Gypsies from all over the Balkans had Government requires municipalities to provide many new services people made coins for the Nemanjic dynasty in Stari by then made it their pilgrimage with thousands of and God knows they need more money. The municipality has also Brdo. We were goldsmiths to the Serbian kings. I’m a families annually setting up their tents there each year. closed down many sidewalk cafes that do not have the required retired goldsmith.” In Janjevo itself, the Gypsies also became the second licenses. Far be it from me to suggest that the municipality should largest ethnic group making up more than 10% of the not enforce the law! There is not a lot of information on Stari Brdo, high population by the 1980s. in the hills between Grachanica and Gilani. Only But from this pedestrian’s perspective, what would really provide a stone ruins cover a few acres of what was once an In 2000, one year after the Kosovo war, only three or old Roman city, famous for its silver and gold mines. four Gypsy families attended the August 15 festivities boost to local revenues and law and order is to start ticketing cars There are documents on Novo Brdo, built on the same in Letnica, mainly the ones I took in my van. But parked on the sidewalks. This is a black eye for central Pristina - place, from the 14th century. But it ceased to exist for last year, the numbers had once again increased with many sidewalks are so clogged with cars that it is nearly impossible all practical purposes after the Turks captured it in thousands attending. to even walk on the sidewalks, forcing many people out onto the 1455 and decapitated most of the male defenders. street into the paths of other cars. This is really bad for handicapped But it was not just the increasing number of Gypsies people, people in wheelchairs, old folks, and children. Many streets Janjevo, however, flourished during the Ottoman traveling to Letnica that turned the pilgrimage into a in central Pristina were actually designed quite nicely from the old occupation as a mining center for lead and silver. Roma festivity. Since the early 1950s, the Croatian days, with ample, beautiful sidewalks. Of course, this is hard to During those centuries, the Croatian inhabitants population throughout Kosovo had been falling. belonged to various classes, from nobility to miners, With industrial development taking place throughout notice now for all the cars. merchants, goldsmiths, shoemakers, and bricklayers. Yugoslavia, especially during the 1970s, many After the Turkish incorporation of Kosovo in 1455, Kosovo Croatians emigrated to Zagreb. Not only As many of us know from other cities, letting cars on sidewalks just Janjevo became a typical oriental settlement although were the working opportunities better than an isolated degrades street life, and it discourages pedestrians and it never allowed to retain its pre-Ottoman privileges as a village like Janjevo, but education for their children in stops. More and more cars are destined for this country and the Dubrovnik colony. the Croatian language was much easier. In 1971 there answer to parking management isn’t letting cars on the sidewalks. were 3,761 Croatians living in Janjevo. By 1991, For me, I would happily prefer nut sellers to cars on the sidewalks! Over the centuries Janjevo also maintained its Croatian this figure had fallen to 2,859. But it was during the heritage and language because of the strong influence Albanian-Serbian conflict that most left. Today there of the Roman Catholic church which prevented their are only 232 descendants of the Dubrovnik pioneers Fred Van Antwerp assimilation into a wider community. Yet by the 19th still residing in Janjevo. century Janjevo had become a mixed population of mainly Croats, Albanians, Serbs and Gypsies. A 1910 Ironically, the departing descendants of the Dubrovnik census shows that there were a total of 515 homes: pioneers did not return to Dubrovnik. Most resettled 400 Croatian, 75 Albanian, 20 Serbian, 2 Turkish and in Zagreb. The reasons: it took 20 hours by car to 18 Gypsy. Dubrovnik, but only 10 to Zagreb; Zagreb was also the biggest city and the most industrialized in Croatia, Although Janjevo probably always had a Catholic hence offering the best job opportunities. But it was place of worship since its founding in 1303, the probably the fall of the Republic of Dubrovnik under present Catholic church was not allowed to open Napoleon’s rule in 1806 that cut the umbilical cord to under Ottoman rule until the 17th century. But from the original homeland of the Janjevci. that time on, the Roman Catholic religion became more public in Turkish Kosovo especially after the Today the Kosovo town of Janjevo is mainly populated Janjevci started to make an annual pilgrimage to by Albanians and Gypsies. The Catholic church still the Virgin Mary in the Catholic church of Letnica in has a Croatian priest, but the new Catholic priest in southeast Kosovo. Although the official celebration of Letnica is Albanian from Pristina. Although one of the the Virgin Mary took place on August 15, the majority most famous streets in old Dubrovnik is still named of the Janjevo population would depart on July 26th Janjevo, few citizens know why. For retired goldsmith to Letnica, populated mainly by Croatian farmers and Stipe Lukic, more than 900 years of Croatian heritage cattle-breeders. The Janjevci would stay until August is coming to an end in Kosovo. But this last of the 18 in small huts they made on church grounds, Janjevci still refuses to leave. separating their premises with woolen blankets. Colombia and Belize recognize Kosovo Colombia and Belize officially recognized independent state with which it intends to government of Belize, which notified him the newly established country of Kosovo establish diplomatic ties.” officially that Belize recognizes Kosovo early last week. They are joining the ranks as an independent and sovereign state. of 43 other countries that are supporting The government of Colombia was been the sovereignty of the newest Balkan quick to affirm its desire to maintain a The letter read, in part, “We congratulate nation. good relationship with Serbia as well. the people of the Republic of Kosovo for their determination to achieve their According to the official Colombian Other South American states likely to independence and commitment to Ministry of Foreign Affairs statement follow Colombia in recognizing Kosovo accomplish and respect all democratic Kosovo is a unique case, which required in the near future appear to be Panama, processes. Particularly, we welcome the specific diplomatic consideration, Guatemala and Chile. statements of the Government of Kosovo “Kosovo is a special case that requires to continue its commitment to implement a special solution and does not create The day after the Columbian the United Nations Charter and all any precedent for solving conflicts.” announcement the tiny Central American principles and regulations in accordance Therefore, “The foreign minister of state of Belize followed suit. The with the international law to keep peace, Columbia declares that it recognizes the President of the Republic of Kosovo, Dr. stability in the region and its commitment Republic of Kosovo as a sovereign and Fatmir Sejdiu, received a letter from the to coexist peacefully with its neighbors.”

EDITION 10 THE KOSOV@ POST AUGUST 11 2008 3 NEWS Thorns and Thistles by Stephen Schwartz Reflections of a Balkan Sojourner (2) Italian diplomat Lamberto Zannier is not First, the homogeneous ethnic populace Turkestan, the Uighur (Turkic Muslim) the first Special Representative of the UN Zannier has described his meanderings on both sides of the former international majority region the Chinese call Xinjiang. Secretary General (SRSG) to assume the between the two capitals as if they were border between the UK colony of Hong I have often argued that Kosovar Albanians role of humanitarian-imperialist satrap in negotiations between the two countries, Kong and the territory of China proper was should form an alliance with the Tibetans Kosovo, but he provides indications that when they are nothing of the sort, given that and remains Chinese. Is Zannier aware of and Uighurs. China lobbies for Serbia and he may be the least sophisticated. Others the Kosovar government ignores them. this fact, and its rather rude contrast with against Kosovo’s independence, most of knew little of Kosovo, but Zannier seems the situation of Serb-Albanian conflict? the world understands Tibet more clearly to be ignorant about the world at large. The most striking element in Zannier’s HK’s special status is not dictated by than it does Kosovo, and the situation of fantasy-camp performance came when, in the presence within it of a non-Chinese the Kosovors and Tibetans, in terms of the his August 1 interview with the Kosovar community, although very small minorities historic threat to their cultural security, was I have often argued daily Koha Ditore, he blandly stated, in of non-Chinese live there. Rather, the long identical. Does Zannier grasp that that Kosovor Albanians defending the idea that a parallel Serbian HK customs system within China exists pointing to Chinese policies as positive customs system could be maintained north because it is economically advantageous models is not a way to win approval among should form an alliance of Mitrovica: “There are many examples to Beijing. Liquidation of the highly- Kosovors? Perhaps he does not. Perhaps in the world where states have different successful free market system in HK and he does not care. Perhaps he imagines with the Tibetans customs zones in their territories. I think its immediate absorption into the Chinese north Mitrovica as a special zone within and Uighurs. China state economy would cause an economic Serbia, not Kosovo. earthquake throughout east Asia. lobbies for Serbia I have here concentrated on Zannier’s and against Kosovo’s I thought the whole world knew that apparent ignorance rather than the more Hong Kong had created services and obviously-objectionable content in his independence, most of infrastructure far superior to that on the interview: his belief that a separate Serbian the world understands mainland. It is absurd to imagine that police and judiciary should be established the Serbs north of Mitrovica possess an north of Mitrovica. This cannot be Tibet more clearly than advanced economic structure. The criminal described as anything other than partition. it does Kosovo, and the policy of operating Trepça without assuring Zannier has said that his main concern is to environmental controls appropriate for it support the demands of Serbs. He has also situation of the Kosovars speaks eloquently to that issue. described himself as “status-neutral.” and Tibetans, in terms I have to mention here China and Hong Second, Hong Kong, which was formerly Zannier is, unfortunately, engaging in of the historic threat to Kong.” the most intellectually-vibrant Chinese- a common Italian stereotype, that of majority community in the world, must personal improvisation of policy. But he their cultural security, I have no idea whether Zannier has ever now contend with a Chinese governor is also playing with fire. The European was long identical. been to Hong Kong (HK) or even read accustomed to and clearly intent on Union’s main states are not “status-neutral” about it, though he may have picked up limiting political freedom in HK. Does on Kosovo; they have recognized the some bad advice from Chris Patten, who a Zannier look forward to an enclave north republic. The United States is not “status- The most impressive example of decade ago presided over the handover of of Mitrovica in which officials from Serbia neutral” on Kosovo; President George W. Zannieresque obliviousness came a few Hong Kong to the Beijing regime, and who would pursue similar policies? Bush has called for removal of UNMIK days ago when the SRSG announced his now expatiates widely on Kosovo. from Kosovo. As the Kosovor leadership agenda for an agreement between Pristina It is especially grating to find Zannier citing has pointed out, Zannier does not have and Belgrade. We may leave aside for I, however, have been to Hong Kong, and a positive example from Chinese policy in authority to formulate obligations binding the moment the question of whether such consider the very suggestion of a parallel the same week when the whole world is on the government of the Kosovo republic. an accommodation is possible right now, between the situation there and that in watching Beijing’s Olympics and a wide But he is also apparently blind to the way much less whether its product would be Kosovo scandalous, to say the least. section of global opinion has condemned in which encouragement of partition north benevolent. Chinese policies in Tibet and Eastern of Mitrovica will likely lead to a new war. Hope and Aid from the UK The Hope and Aid Direct (H&AD) agency orphanages. from the United Kingdom is planning to The bulk of the organization’s work has send a convoy of trucks with aid for locals been done in Kosovo in recent years to Kosovo this October. The area that they but H&AD has also distributed aid in will be focusing on bringing aid to this Romania, Bosnia, Croatia and Serbia. trip is the northeastern part of the country, They also had a presence in Sri Lanka including Pristina. following the Tsunami in 2004. H&AD has a long-standing partnership Since its inception the organization has with the Mother Teresa Society (MTS) brought in over 1,000 tonnes of aid to and work to distribute aid in Kosovo to the Balkans, with the majority coming to those who need it most regardless of their Kosovo. ethnic background. Their motto is taking aid – not sides. Kosovo has an extreme poverty rate of 18% but it is as high as 22% in areas The charity was founded in 1999 and is such as Mitrovica. The country’s Social staffed entirely by volunteers who raise Welfare Department has very strict and their own funds. The money raised is used dangerously narrow guidelines as to who to amass aid and pay for its transportation is eligible for help. For example, only to regions in need. The bulk of donations families with children under 5 are eligible are from private citizens, companies, for assistance, and once an adult passes schools, clubs, churches and other the age of 55 they are no longer able to organizations. apply for Social Welfare. The volunteers who physically bring the If you would like to help H&AD by aid often do some kind of humanitarian donating or volunteering go to: work whilst in the country. In the past, H&AD has rebuilt schools and renovated www.hopeandaiddirect.net/contacts/

4 EDITION 10 THE KOSOV@ POST AUGUST 11 2008 ECONOMY BUSINESS MATTERS Ejup Qerimi Top ten reasons to invest in Kosovo? The Economic Initiative for Kosovo modern technologies, up many Balkan countries for free trade 10 Low tax burden and modern (ECIKS) promotes foreign investment including VoIP, GPRS, etc. Three main with Kosovo, the inability to establish a business support institutions into the country. One of the tools the internet service providers offer stable reciprocally equal trade regime with Serbia organization uses is the popular top ten and broadband Internet, including DSL, is a negative selling point for international Kosovo has a simple and straightforward list, in this case the top ten reasons to Wireless, and Cable, with lower prices investors. Because the Kosovo economy tax system. The tax burden is very low: invest in Kosovo. While I support the than in any other European country. gets much of its income from Kosovars work of ECIKS, which is an arm of the living abroad, government relies on VAT • Personal Income Tax 0-20 % Pristina based Investment Promotion Kosovo does have a quickly developing and customs tariffs to fund the country, as • VAT 15 % Agency for Kosovo (IPAK) I have to telecommunications system, but the opposed to straight income tax, like most • Corporate Income Tax 20% say that their list this year has some industry has expanded because of past countries. But the 10% tariff on imported • Mandatory contributions for analytical flaws. foreign investments and there may not be goods might not be enough to protect employees only 5% of gross much room for more growth. Kosovo products. salaries 1 Central location in the region 5 Modern, EU-compatible 9 Great investment No other country of the SEE can Being located in the heart of the Balkans, legislation opportunities outperform Kosovo in its ability to allow Kosovo’s capital Pristina is in one-hour the businesses to enter the market. The driving distance to any neighbouring Since 1999 Kosovo’s legal system has been Kosovo is well endowed with natural Investment Promotion Agency of Kosovo country. Ongoing infrastructure projects re-built and is now completely compatible resources and agricultural land. Sectors of (IPAK) and its office in Vienna offer a include modern highway connections to with the EU legislation. Kosovo has also agriculture, food processing, construction, whole range of free of charge services for Albania, Serbia and Macedonia. By 2009 installed the International Standards for textile, IT, automotive components and foreign investors. the driving distance to the Albanian Port financial reporting. In addition, Kosovo’s energy and mining offer the most of Durres will be reduced to 3 hours. In legislation offers “national treatment” for opportunities for foreign investors. An Although these institutions to promote addition, Pristina International Airport foreign investors. interesting opportunity, having in mind investments are present, they still need to offers air connections to main European the young, multilingual and educated be developed. The Investment Promotion capitals. This is not entirely true, Kosovo’s legislation population, is also IT-outsourcing. Agency of Kosovo-IPAK, is established but is based on the old Yugoslavian legislation, not yet functioning as it must. While it is true that Kosovo is a central as well as the updated UNMIK legislation, This is a valid point. There is a great deal Balkan country we are also a landlocked with the Ahtisaari plan and the brand of room to grow for this country. country. There are projections that the new Kosovo Constitution. This means it is driving time between Kosovo and the far from being modern and also far from Albanian ports will be 3 hours once all being EU-compatible. EU legislation Ejup Qerimi is a former Secretary General of the Kosovo Chamber of Commerce the planned road works are complete. has high standards and our standards However, we have a long way to go on the are very different. Having said that, we development of proper road infrastructure. do intend to have similar legislation to The hope that the highway system will be minimize obstacles for private investors revitalized by 2009 is overly optimistic, and production facilities. Kosovo has the roads will be built but it may take a bit established a national standard but it longer than projected. is not up to the international standard

of financial reporting. We are in the 32 WEEK 2 Young, educated, multilingual initial stage of adopting all international Wholesale and Retail prices for vegetables,fruits,consumer products,livestock and animal products in all regions in Kosovo Retail Wholesale Product and dynamic population standards needed for investors. Prishtina Prizren Peja Gjakova Gjilan Mitrovica Ferizaj (+/-)Prishtina Prizren Peja Gjakova Gjilan Mitrovica Ferizaj (+/-) Vegetables Avg 0.12 0.13 0.25 0.10 0.22 0.50 0.11 < 0.05 0.04 0.15 0.05 0.12 0.25 0.05 > Cabbage Kosovo has the youngest population in 6 Sound banking system Max 0.15 0.15 0.30 0.10 0.25 0.50 0.12 < 0.06 0.05 0.20 0.05 0.15 0.25 0.06 >

Avg 0.70 0.60 0.65 0.45 0.65 0.70 0.55 < 0.38 0.25 0.35 0.30 0.45 0.50 0.30 < Europe. Due to the long international Carrots Max 0.80 0.70 0.75 0.50 0.80 0.70 0.70 < 0.40 0.30 0.55 0.30 0.60 0.50 0.04 <

Kosovo’s financial sector has been built on Avg 0.32 0.35 0.23 0.23 0.35 0.50 0.20 < 0.12 0.18 0.10 0.10 0.22 0.25 0.08 < presence, English is just short of an official Cucumber language. Over 40.000 students at two completely new foundations. The Banking Max 0.40 0.40 0.25 0.25 0.40 0.50 0.25 < 0.15 0.20 0.13 0.10 0.25 0.25 0.10 < Avg 1.50 1.95 1.96 1.40 1.65 2.00 1.75 < 1.03 1.35 1.55 1.00 1.45 1.50 1.57 > Garlic state and numerous private universities and Payments Authority of Kosovo (BPK) Max 2.00 2.00 2.00 1.50 1.80 2.00 2.00 < 1.30 1.40 1.75 1.00 1.60 1.50 1.65 <

Avg 0.77 1.10 0.95 0.60 0.60 1.00 0.60 < 0.45 0.65 0.50 0.40 0.47 0.80 0.30 > and many Kosovars who have lived and is an independent body, which acts as a Leeks Max 0.90 1.50 1.10 0.60 0.70 1.00 0.70 > 0.50 0.70 0.70 0.40 0.55 0.80 0.30 >

Central Bank of Kosovo. There are eight Avg 0.47 0.45 0.30 0.40 0.37 0.40 0.35 < 0.22 0.23 0.15 0.25 0.25 0.20 0.20 < studied abroad are currently guarantying Onions a sufficient stream of highly educated licensed banks, two pension funds, 16 Max 0.50 0.50 0.35 0.40 0.45 0.40 0.40 < 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.30 0.20 0.25 < Avg 0.60 0.75 0.50 0.83 0.62 1.00 0.45 < 0.35 0.28 0.30 0.52 0.40 0.70 0.30 < Peppers labour. other financial intermediaries, 27 financial Max 0.70 0.80 0.55 0.90 0.75 1.00 0.50 < 0.40 0.30 0.40 0.55 0.45 0.70 0.40 <

Avg 0.38 0.38 0.35 0.25 0.35 0.40 0.25 < 0.18 0.19 0.25 0.10 0.25 0.20 0.18 < auxiliaries and nine insurance companies Potato Max 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.25 0.40 0.40 0.30 < 0.20 0.20 0.35 0.10 0.30 0.20 0.20 <

in Kosovo. Six out of eight banks in Avg 0.50 0.45 0.35 0.32 0.37 0.50 0.30 < 0.28 0.23 0.25 0.15 0.27 0.25 0.15 < The data that this statement was collected Tomato in 1981 and so it may well be out of date. It Kosovo are foreign-owned. Max 0.50 0.50 0.45 0.35 0.40 0.50 0.30 < 0.30 0.25 0.35 0.15 0.30 0.25 0.15 < Avg 2.10 2.25 2.40 2.30 2.00 2.00 2.00 < 1.80 1.75 2.00 2.00 1.75 1.50 1.55 > White beans is true that 70% of the population is under Max 2.30 2.50 2.50 2.30 2.00 2.00 2.00 < 1.90 1.80 2.20 2.00 1.80 1.50 1.80 >

Avg 1.13 0.55 0.40 0.58 - 1.00 1.00 < 0.77 0.38 0.20 0.30 - 0.70 0.70 > the age of 35 but to say that they are highly While it is true that there are well- Spinach Max 1.20 0.60 0.50 0.65 - 1.00 1.00 < 0.80 0.40 0.30 0.30 - 0.70 0.70 >

established banks in Kosovo, we are Avg 0.33 0.23 0.25 0.60 0.45 0.50 0.43 < 0.18 0.13 0.15 0.32 0.27 0.25 0.29 > educated is a bit of a stretch. Kosovo has Green Salad a relatively new education system that was lacking a real financial sector and Max 0.35 0.25 0.35 0.60 0.50 0.50 0.50 < 0.20 0.15 0.20 0.35 0.30 0.25 0.33 > Avg 0.97 1.10 0.40 1.80 0.80 1.00 1.00 < 0.65 0.35 0.20 1.20 0.62 0.60 0.75 < Green Bean re-established in 2000, and while we have markets. After the war we started from Max 1.00 1.20 0.50 1.80 0.90 1.00 1.00 < 0.70 0.40 0.30 1.20 0.75 0.60 0.80 < two state universities and many private scratch. We have a banking system, but Fruits Avg 1.67 1.56 1.00 1.92 1.40 1.70 1.70 < 1.32 0.95 0.80 1.50 1.15 1.20 1.10 < Apple universities, only the American University it’s not competitive enough for business Max 1.80 1.89 1.10 2.00 1.50 1.70 1.80 < 1.40 1.00 0.90 1.50 1.30 1.20 1.20 <

Avg 1.37 1.25 1.00 1.50 1.40 1.50 1.40 > 0.97 1.15 0.80 1.10 1.17 1.00 1.00 > development. Mandarin in Kosovo is fully accredited. Max 1.50 1.50 1.10 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 > 1.00 1.20 0.90 1.10 1.25 1.00 1.20 >

Avg 1.06 0.75 0.80 1.00 1.10 1.00 0.92 > 0.83 0.73 0.50 0.50 0.95 0.70 0.80 > Banana Max 1.20 0.80 1.00 1.00 1.20 1.00 1.00 > 0.90 0.75 0.70 0.50 1.00 0.70 0.80 >

7 Currency: EURO Avg 1.27 1.10 1.20 1.50 1.05 1.10 1.01 < 0.90 0.68 1.00 1.00 0.85 0.65 0.63 < 3 Competitive, flexible and well Grape Max 1.50 1.20 1.30 1.50 1.10 1.10 1.20 < 1.00 0.70 1.10 1.00 0.90 0.65 0.70 <

Avg 1.73 1.93 1.40 1.97 1.55 2.00 1.90 < 1.30 1.35 1.10 1.50 1.35 1.50 1.45 < skilled labour force Lemon

Euro is the official currency in Kosovo, < < Max 1.80 2.00 1.50 2.00 1.60 2.00 2.00 1.40 1.40 1.20 1.50 1.40 1.50 1.60 Avg 0.47 0.45 0.40 0.50 0.85 0.60 0.55 < 0.32 0.33 0.15 0.30 0.65 0.40 0.23 > eliminating this way the currency and Melons Average gross wage in Kosovo is less than Max 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 1.00 0.60 0.60 < 0.35 0.35 0.25 0.30 0.80 0.40 0.25 >

exchange rate risk. The Euro gave Avg 1.50 1.37 0.90 1.72 1.35 1.50 1.60 > 1.03 1.10 0.70 1.20 1.15 1.00 1.10 > 240 EUR. Wages in Kosovo are unburdened Pears Kosovo a considerable advantage over Max 1.60 1.60 1.00 1.80 1.50 1.50 1.80 > 1.20 1.20 0.80 1.20 1.30 1.00 1.20 > by costly social contributions, unlike those Avg 0.17 0.17 0.20 0.18 0.20 0.20 0.17 < 0.09 0.12 0.10 0.10 0.16 0.13 0.12 < Watermelon

its competitors in the region by making it < < in the countries of the region. Through Max 0.20 0.18 0.25 0.18 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.10 0.13 0.15 0.10 0.17 0.13 0.13 Avg 1.20 1.35 0.90 1.23 - 1.30 0.90 < 0.83 0.75 0.70 0.90 - 0.80 0.70 < more attractive to foreign investment and Apricot engaging in smaller workshops and private Max 1.30 1.50 1.00 1.30 - 1.30 1.00 < 1.00 0.80 0.80 0.90 - 0.80 0.80 <

by bringing financial and macroeconomic Avg 0.97 0.85 0.70 0.98 0.90 1.00 0.85 < 0.62 0.43 0.50 0.50 0.70 0.60 0.47 < businesses during the 1990s and through Plum stability. It also enabled Kosovo to offer Max 1.00 1.00 0.80 1.00 1.00 1.00 0.90 < 0.70 0.45 0.60 0.50 0.80 0.60 0.55 < vocational training programs established Avg 7.60 2.40 2.70 1.50 1.75 2.50 - > 6.57 2.20 2.20 1.00 1.45 2.00 - > Walnut

the lowest transaction costs in the region. > > in the last 9 years, Kosovars have gained Max 7.80 2.50 3.50 1.50 2.00 2.50 - 6.80 2.30 2.50 1.00 1.70 2.00 - Avg 0.97 0.90 0.70 0.95 1.00 1.00 0.83 < 0.55 0.63 0.50 0.50 0.80 0.60 0.56 < Peach skills, which are highly appreciated by Any downside to using the euro is Max 1.00 1.00 0.80 1.00 1.00 1.00 0.85 < 0.60 0.65 0.60 0.50 0.80 0.60 0.65 < foreign investors. Consumer Product Avg 0.85 0.84 0.60 0.80 0.82 0.90 0.91 > 0.60 0.72 0.35 0.60 - - 0.87 > inconsequential when compared to the Milk Max 0.90 0.99 1.00 0.85 0.85 0.90 1.00 < 0.70 0.93 0.50 0.60 - - 0.90 >

benefits - no argument. Avg 3.58 3.15 2.20 3.73 3.32 2.75 2.80 > 2.30 2.90 1.70 3.33 - - 2.50 < I’m critical of this point. The marketable Cheese Max 4.20 3.30 3.70 4.30 3.70 3.00 3.70 > 3.50 3.00 2.00 4.00 - - 3.00 < work skills that are needed to attract the Avg 2.95 2.95 2.80 2.80 2.75 2.66 2.77 > 2.52 2.70 2.20 2.50 - - 2.48 > Eggs new investors are in the technology and 8 Free access to EU-market and Max 3.00 3.00 3.00 2.80 3.00 3.00 2.95 > 2.60 2.83 2.50 2.50 - - 2.50 > Avg 0.93 0.94 1.10 0.90 0.94 0.70 0.98 > 0.75 - 0.80 0.70 - - 0.85 > Yogurt financial sectors are not present. All of CEFTA members market Max 1.00 0.99 1.40 0.90 0.98 0.70 1.00 < 0.80 - 1.00 0.70 - - 0.90 >

Avg 4.99 5.90 4.50 5.83 5.15 5.00 6.00 > - 5.25 3.70 5.33 - - 5.25 > them employ young people and they used Beef Kosovo derives three major benefits from Max 5.50 6.00 5.50 6.00 5.50 5.00 7.00 > - 5.50 4.00 5.50 - - 5.50 <> Avg 3.00 2.67 3.20 4.83 3.15 2.66 2.82 > - - 2.50 4.43 - - 1.95 < to have their own original training centers, Sausage but now they accept people immediately, the trade liberalization, namely improved Max 3.50 3.49 4.20 5.00 3.50 3.00 4.50 > - - 3.00 4.50 - - 2.50 > Avg 0.35 - 0.40 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.40 < - - 0.20 0.30 - - 0.37 < export possibilities, a better investment Bread often hiring an under qualified staff. Max 0.40 0.40 0.55 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.40 < - - 0.35 0.30 - - 0.38 >

Avg 2.03 3.34 2.70 2.73 - 1.50 1.90 > - - 2.00 2.33 - - 1.60 < environment and stable relations with Red Wine Max 2.30 3.74 4.90 3.10 - 1.50 3.10 < - - 2.50 2.50 - - 2.20 <

its neighbours. Kosovo is a member of Avg 2.93 2.27 1.90 2.42 - 1.50 2.00 < - - 1.40 2.17 - - 1.65 < 4 Modern Telecommunications White Wine CEFTA and it also benefits from non- Max 3.00 2.64 2.50 2.80 - 1.50 3.50 < - - 2.00 2.50 - - 2.20 < reciprocal, customs free access to the EU Note: Powered by Kosovo offers modern telecommunication -All prices are in Euro, market based on the EU Autonomous -Prices collected on Saturday and Sunday every week, systems. There are 3 fixed telephony -For all products the average and highest maximum prices publish, Trade Preference (ATP) Regime. -The indicators represent the tendencies of grow up and follow prices compared to lost week, operators and 2 mobile telephony -All prices are publish per kg,except milk,yogurt,that are in liter, bread(700 gr),eggs are in boxes 30 eggs, www.food-ks.org operators, offering the latest and most Although the CEFTA agreement opens and green salad is in bunch.

EDITION 10 THE KOSOV@ POST AUGUST 11 2008 5 OPINION

official investigations and ensure genuine accountability. But, while grassroots pressure has not worked, money still talks. We need Dear world, please targeted government-led sanctions against the US by civilized countries, including international divestment of capital. Many studies have shown that tying investment to democracy and human rights reform is confront America effective in the developing world. There is by Naomi Wolf no reason why it can’t be effective against the world’s superpower. Flying a We also need an internationally coordinated flag upside strategy for prosecuting war criminals at the down is an top and further down the chain of command internationally – individual countries pressing charges, as Italy and France have done. Although recognized sign the United States is not a signatory to the of distress statute that established the International Criminal Court, violations of Common Article 3 of the Geneva Conventions are war crimes for which anyone – potentially even the US president – may be tried in any of the other 193 countries that are parties to the conventions. The whole world can hunt these criminals down. An outlaw America is a global problem that threatens the rest of the international community. If this regime gets away with flouting international law, what is to prevent the next administration – or Is it possible to fall out of love with your paraphrase Abraham Lincoln, if torture is accountable neither to him nor to this administration, continuing under own country? For two years, I, like many not wrong, nothing is wrong. Congress, and not bound, they have its secret succession plan in the event of Americans, have been focused intently argued, by international treaties. Weapons an emergency – from going further and on documenting, exposing, and alerting And yet no such thing has occurred. manufacturers and the telecommunications targeting its political opponents at home the nation to the Bush administration’s There is no crisis in America’s churches industry, with billions at stake in and abroad? criminality and its assault on the and synagogues, no Christian and Jewish maintaining a hyped “war on terror” and Constitution and the rule of law – a story leaders crying out for justice in the name their new global surveillance market, We Americans are either too incapable, or often marginalized at home. I was certain of Jesus, a tortured political prisoner, or will deploy a lavishly financed army of too dysfunctional, to help ourselves right that when Americans knew what was being of Yahweh, who demands righteousness. I lobbyists to defend their interests. now. Like drug addicts or the mentally ill done in their name, they would react with asked a contact in the interfaith world why. who refuse treatment, we need our friends horror and outrage. He replied, “The mainstream churches Moreover, if elected, Obama will be to intervene. So remember us as we were don’t care, because they are Republican. constrained by his own Democratic in our better moments, and take action to Three months ago, the Bush administration And the synagogues don’t care, because Party. America’s political parties bear save us – and the world – from ourselves. still clung to its devil’s sound bite, “We the prisoners are Arabs.” little resemblance to the disciplined don’t torture.” Now, Physicians for Human organizations familiar in parliamentary Maybe then I can fall in love with my Rights has issued its report documenting It was then that I realized that I could not democracies in Europe and elsewhere. And country again. American-held detainees’ traumas, and be in love with my country right now. How Democrats in Congress will be even more even lie detector tests confirm they have can I care about the fate of people like divided after November if, as many expect, Naomi Wolf, the author, most recently, of been tortured. The Red Cross report has that? If this is what Americans are feeling, conservative members defeat Republican The End of America: Letter of Warning if that is who we are, we don’t deserve our incumbents damaged by their association to a Young Patriot and the forthcoming Constitution and Bill of Rights. with Bush. Give me Liberty: How to Become an If this is what American Revolutionary, is co-founder Even America’s vaunted judicial system To be sure, some Democrats have recently of the American Freedom Campaign, a Americans are feeling, has failed to constrain obvious abuses. A launched Congressional hearings into the US democracy movement. if that is who we are, Federal court has ruled that the military Bush administration’s abuses of power. tribunals system – Star Chambers where Unfortunately, with virtually no media Copyright: Project Syndicate, 2008. we don’t deserve our evidence derived from torture is used coverage, there is little pressure to broaden www.project-syndicate.org Constitution and Bill of against the accused – can proceed. Another recently ruled that the President may call Rights. anyone anywhere an “enemy combatant” and detain him or her indefinitely. leaked: torture and war crimes. Jane So Americans are colluding with a criminal Mayer’s impeccably researched exposé regime. We have become an outlaw nation The Dark Side just hit the stores: torture, – a clear and present danger to international crafted and directed from the top. The law and global stability – among civilized Washington Post gave readers actual video countries that have been our allies. We footage of the abusive interrogation of a are – rightly – on Canada’s list of rogue Canadian minor, Omar Khadr, who was nations that torture. www.KosovaBiz.com seen showing his still-bleeding abdominal wounds, weeping and pleading with his Europe is still high from Barack Obama’s captors. recent visit. Many Americans, too, hope that an Obama victory in November will So the truth is out and freely available. And roll back this nightmare. But this is no America is still napping, worrying about time to yield to delusions. Even if Obama its weight, and hanging out at the mall. wins, he may well be a radically weakened president. The Bush administration has I had thought that after so much exposure, created a transnational apparatus of thousands of Americans would be holding lawlessness that he alone, without global vigils on Capitol Hill, that religious leaders intervention, can neither roll back nor Rent a car with driver | www.limoprishtina.com would be asking God’s forgiveness, and control. that a popular groundswell of revulsion, tel. 049 479 478 | 10000 Pristina, Kosovo similar to the nineteenth-century anti- Private security firms – for example, slavery movement, would emerge. To Blackwater – will still be operating,

6 EDITION 10 THE KOSOV@ POST AUGUST 11 2008 OPINION

Based on an Albanian American Civic League fact-finding trip to Kosovo, June 29—July 6, 2008 Kosovoby Shirley Cloyes DioGuardi adrift

Although Kosovo’s name only. continues to invoke UN Resolution 1244, engaged in a silent ethnic cleansing in the independence has been even though 1244 neither allows nor Presheva Valley. They are deliberately Serbia, with the backing disallows independence. Nevertheless, using violent and oppressive tactics in an recognized by the United if 1244 is not removed, Serbian parallel attempt to drive the Albanian people out of States, it lacks genuine of Russia, is working structures will get concretized. The United the region, while simultaneously blocking sovereignty. With five entities to undermine Kosovo’s States must again stand up to Russia. refugee returns. competing for power, Kosovo sovereignty and to destabilize Until it does, the European Union will is drifting. the region. The United States remain divided and Kosovo’s status will The Kosovo government is must again stand up to both. remain unresolved. With 25 percent of the financial responsibility for EULEX and bowing to the international Since Kosovo declared its independence on a troop presence in Camp Bondsteel, the community, when it should be February 17, 2008, it has been recognized Serbia has not accepted independence, international supervision, or the Ahtisaari United States cannot afford to take a back pursuing internal solutions. by 43 countries; it has a constitution with seat to Europe at this critical juncture. a majority of laws based on the criteria principles. Through its intensive lobbying efforts challenging Kosovo’s The present Kosovo Government appears outlined in the Ahtisaari plan; it has its to be principally concerned with holding own multiethnic flag and national anthem; sovereignty, there has been a slowdown The de facto partition of in the recognition of Kosovo as a new on to power. It has yet to put forth a it has established its foreign ministry; it has Mitrovice is a reality. The proactive strategy for solving the country’s prepared new passports; and it is currently state. Serbia is simultaneously changing Kosovo government and the realities on the ground. They are problems and is not moving energetically in the process of establishing security forces internationals have not yet and systematically in areas where it can with the assistance of NATO experts. using money to control Kosovo Serbs, 40 percent of whom live above the Ibar River been able to take the north exercise power (i.e., obtaining recognition in northern Kosovo and 60 percent of through active lobbying). In some political Nevertheless, it is hard to envision how under their control, partly circles, there is an air of self satisfaction Kosovo is to achieve full economic and whom live below in enclaves throughout because most of the West is Kosovo. Since the declaration of (“we can sit back now that we have political independence with five entities once again appeasing Serbia. independence”). In others, the atmosphere competing for power and reporting to independence, Belgrade has strengthened parallel structures, including police, is one of dispirited paralysis (“only the their own chains of command. The United The north of Kosovo has effectively internationals can solve this”), when in Nations, which should have handed over judiciary, border control, transportation, separated itself with Serbian support, and telecommunications, and cultural heritage reality the international community has its mission to the European Union on is utterly lawless. Serbia’s end game has little idea of how to move forwards, and, June 15, became increasingly reluctant to sites. On February 20, Kosovo Serbs, with always been the partition of the north. A support from Belgrade, blew up two border in some sectors, is actually encouraging pass on its mandate in the face of Russian high-ranking member of the ICO told us drift. The only way that Kosovo can pressure, invoking UN Resolution 1244, crossings in northern Kosovo, Gates 1 and that EULEX will eventually deploy, but 31, and the border checkpoints of Brnjak, succeed is if its government and its and the objection of Serbia and seven the timing remains to be seen because of people take charge. Otherwise, it will be EU members. On June 12, UN General concerns about EU forces coming under permanently dependent on the international Secretary Ban Ki-moon sent a letter to ... it is hard to attack. As Tom Yazdgerdi rightly told us, administration. As former Prime Minister Kosovo President Fatmir Sejdiu and “If EULEX does not deploy into the north, Ramush Haradinaj said, “We need local Serbian President Boris Tadic, stating that envision how Kosovo we will have problems.” But it remains to solutions with international assistance.” he wanted to “reconfigure UNMIK” and is to achieve full be seen if the ICO and EULEX have any “to place the EU under it.” EULEX, the idea about how to regain control of the Until the international 2,200-member body led by General Yves economic and political north other than by waiting and hoping de Kermabon that is supposed to supervise independence with five that Tadic’s government’s desire to join the community is willing the police and the judiciary, has yet to fill EU will yield greater cooperation from the to establish a properly its ranks (there are only 300 in country) entities competing for Serbs. independent Kosovo state, and deploy to the north. power and reporting stability in Southeast Europe The UN and the Contact Group also seem The International Civilian Office (ICO), to their own chains of to be taking this wait-and-see approach. will be at risk. the 1,800-strong administrative body led command. The result is that Belgrade is seizing the Serbia has been able to slow the process by Peter Feith, reports to a steering group opportunity to fulfill its territorial ambitions, of representative powers, and individual of recognition of Kosovo with the abiding continuing Slobodan Milosevic’s quest for help of Russia. members in effect report to their individual “Greater Serbia.” home countries. KFOR reports to NATO Jarinje, and Mutivode. Last month, on Through vigorous diplomatic actions in the command, and the troops participating in June 28, they established a parliament in As a USAID representative told us off the Kosovo mission report to their home the north. international arena, on the one hand, and the record, “efforts should be made to by consolidating political and economic countries. gain control over the Serb majority in the Tom Yazdgerdi, political and economic control over the Serb community in south by giving them carrots, while giving Kosovo, on the other, Belgrade is working Then there is the Kosovo government and section chief of the U.S. Embassy, with Belgrade the stick by challenging the parliament, which is being cautioned by the whom we had an excellent meeting, told to weaken Kosovo’s February 2008 lawless of the north on a daily basis and declaration of independence. On a daily international community to remain patient us that the United States is sending a clear publicly bringing attention to Belgrade’s and which, under the new constitution, must message to Belgrade that it cannot embrace basis it is raising questions in diplomatic intransigence in the international media.” circles and in the press about whether respect the power of the ICO to “sanction future admittance to the European Union Allowing Belgrade to have enhanced power and remove any public official and annul and at the same time object to EULEX Kosovo is capable of functioning as a over the Kosovo Serb community without sovereign, multiethnic state. Belgrade any decision or legislation that violates and maintain control over Kosovo Serbs. insisting that it accepts the new reality in the letter or spirit of the settlement.” And (More than any other Western factor, the has been helped, to a great extent, by the Kosovo is an invitation for instability and fact that the international community was finally, there are the Kosovo Serbs, who are United States is pressing Serbia to accept conflict. being manipulated by Belgrade to refuse the independence of Kosovo and to get on unwilling to establish Kosovo as a properly independent state. integration into the new state of Kosovo. with its own democratization.) As a lawyer Without intervention by the United States working for the international community to accelerate the deployment of EULEX The alphabet soup of “internationals” stated, “There will be a full blown political in the north, with support from KFOR, Shirley Cloyes DioGuardi is Balkan seems to lack a clear plan for solving the crisis in the European Union if Tadic the partition will become a reality, and this serious political and economic problems pursues both tracks.” Affairs Adviser to the Albanian will open the way for renewed discussion American Civic League. that Kosovo faces. In addition, the ICO, the of making the Presheva Valley a part of new lead body, is now in competition with Nevertheless, Serbian cooperation of any Kosovo, as it was before the Serbs illegally UNMIK. This makes it highly unlikely for sort is highly unlikely while the Serbs This article has been edited, by the annexed it in 1956. We met with leaders author, to meet space constraints, from decision making to coalesce and that any feel that they have Russian backing. from several political parties and NGOs robust response will be made to Serbia’s Very few want to join the European a presentation to the U.S. House and in Presheva, Medvedgje, and Bujanoc in Senate Foreign Relations Committees efforts to undermine the sovereignty and Union—and certainly not if it means Gjilan and received a chilling portrait of territorial integrity of Kosovo. Until this “losing ,” as they see it. Russia, calling and was previously published in its the apartheid-like conditions for Albanians entirety in Kosova Sot. changes, Kosovo will be independent in the independence of Kosovo “illegal,” there. The Serbian police and military are

EDITION 10 THE KOSOV@ POST AUGUST 11 2008 7 FEATURE Bajram Mehmeti, internationally renowned Kosovo Rom painter by Paul Polansky Bajram Mehmeti is a 28-year-old Kosovo Gypsy artist who in the aftermath of the When I met Bajram Mehmeti that day, 1999 war created, in just one year’s time, he had not painted very many pictures up an astonishingly rich series of more than ‘til then. He was 21 years old, barefoot, 100 works depicting the life and culture and dirt poor. He lived with his parents, 3 of the pre-war Roma (Gypsies). brothers and 3 sisters in a two-room hovel with no indoor plumbing. He said he had Since I discovered him in 2001 living in taught himself how to draw by copying a poor Serbian farming village about 15 pictures out of books and magazines. kilometers southwest of Pristina, Bajram has had solo exhibitions in Switzerland, Because I already had a large art Director of Austria, Germany, Turkey and India. collection in Spain, where I had lived for the Seedamm the past 30 years, I saw a lot of promise Kulturzentrum in I first heard about Bajram from a worker in Bajram’s sketches. The few paintings with the International Red Cross in he had finished had wonderful colors in Pfaeffikon, Andreas Grachanica. I had gone there to report on the most unusual combinations. immediately an old blind Romani woman living alone recognized Bajram’s who obviously needed help. After taking At that time I was living with Roma not talent and not only down her details and address, the Red only as a human rights activist but also Cross worker asked if I had ever heard as an anthropologist and poet. I asked began to prepare of a Gypsy artist living west of Lipjan. Bajram if he would paint his people’s exhibitions for him He didn’t know his name but had heard customs and traditions if I bought all in Switzerland and of him. his materials and then his paintings. He agreed and within a year I had a Austria but also Although I had been living in the large collection of his work. But more encouraged me to enclaves near Lipjan with Gypsy families importantly I had also brought Andreas join him in writing a since July 1999, I had never heard of Meier, one of Switzerland’s foremost art That book, Bajram Mehmeti, Paintings she is not married (has never had a date this artist either. So I sent out to find curators, out to Kosovo to view Bajram’s of a Rom in Kosovo, co-authored by because of their isolation), those are her book about Bajram him with my local Romani interpreter work. Andreas and myself was published by jobs too. But painted in her naive, simple and his art. and driver. We visited several villages, Nimbus in Switzerland in 2004. style, one feels the pride and tradition in always drawing a blank, until we asked Director of the Seedamm Kulturzentrum those household chores. my interpreter’s Romani relatives in the in Pfaeffikon, Andreas immediately Bajram’s paintings in our book portrayed small village of Lepina, a few kilometers recognized Bajram’s talent and not Gypsy professions (blacksmiths, west of Lipjan. They had never heard of only began to prepare exhibitions for musicians, etc) and their customs and traditions. Also included were many portraits of his people. Although Bajram had lived and suffered though the 1999 war, especially the NATO bombing and its aftermath, there was not one painting about the Balkan conflict. Andreas described Bajram’s paintings as moments of hope, reflecting the past and dreams of better times. “Bajram Mehmeti’s pictures are, above all else, witnesses to a centuries-old existence of the Romani culture in Kosovo. In a heartening tone, blocking out all the horror of the recent past and latest events, he informs viewers about this culture and of possible new times. His pictures communicate the hope that prosperity can be found everywhere, if only given the chance.” In a short biography that Bajram wrote for our book, he stated: “There is no art background in my family, although my older sister also draws. I taught her and now she is nearly as good as I am. In some of her work, I cannot tell the difference between her paintings and mine.” Thirty-year-old Farija, Bajram’s sister, a Gypsy painter, except house painters. him in Switzerland and Austria but also mainly paints imagined portraits of Then a Serb neighbor came by and said encouraged me to join him in writing a Romani women, or Romani women at yes, he knew him. He lived just behind book about Bajram and his art. work: baking, cleaning, sewing, chopping my interpreter’s cousins. wood, looking after children. Although

8 EDITION 10 THE KOSOV@ POST AUGUST 11 2008 FEATURE Bajram Mehmeti, internationally renowned Kosovo Rom painter

Director of the Seedamm Kulturzentrum in Pfaeffikon, Andreas immediately recognized Bajram’s talent and not only began to prepare exhibitions for him in Switzerland and Austria but also encouraged me to join him in writing a book about Bajram and his art. ● Bajram Mehmeti

Both brother and sister have the renowned Bajram’s paintings abroad sell for a minimum of 400 euros. In Kosovo he tries Gypsy eye for colour, for colour to keep his prices in line with the local market, with prices starting at 100 euros combinations that normally don’t go for his smallest works. His sister, still learning her craft, sells her paintings for 50 together but in their pictures stand out in euros. They can be contacted at the following telephone numbers: 061-166-2058; a refreshing way. 064-989-9379; and 064-523-8099. When I showed some of Bajram’s work to Tracy Sweet, a highly regarded artist and teacher, in the United States, he couldn’t believe the skies in Bajram’s paintings. “Skies are the hardest thing for a young painter. This kid’s a genius.” “I often go outside to paint,” Bajram said. “Maybe three times a week. It’s a whole other feeling when I’m painting outside in the fresh air, in the forest or at the lake. Not far from my house is a forest with a river but most of the pictures are painted at home. Much of it I only have to imagine. Many of my portraits come from my imagination. They depict character traits of Roma whom I have once met.” Bajram’s works have already been collected by museums in Czech Republic, Switzerland, India, and the United States. Fortunately for Kosovo, Bajram does not like to travel and never wants to leave his homeland. While neighbors and relatives look for ways to escape the hard life in their poor communities, Bajram insists he will never leave Kosovo. “Life in Kosovo gets better with each day,” he says with much pride in his country and people. ●Bajram Mehmeti’s sister, Farija Mehmeti

EDITION 10 THE KOSOV@ POST AUGUST 11 2008 9 Embassy Row ALBANIAN EMBASSY HUNGARY EMBASSY Address: Hekurudha 1, Qyteza Pejton Address: 24 Maji – Arberia REGION Pristina 10000, Kosovo Pristina 10000, Kosovo Phone: +381 (0) 38 248 368, 248 208 Phone: +381(0) 38 247 763 Fax: +381 (0) 38 248 209 Fax: +381(0) 38 247 764 Ever increasing gas prices hurting Balkans E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] AUSTRIAN EMBASSY ITALY EMBASSY Soaring gas prices on the global market are Gas suppliers in Albania also point to Address: Fan S. Noli 2 – Arberia Address: Abdullah Shabani 3 – Arberia Pristina 10000, Kosovo Pristina 10000, Kosovo having a serious impact on the Southeast taxes, particularly their 20% VAT, as a key Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 284, 249 285 Phone: +381(0) 38 244 925 Europe region. All the countries in the contributor to their ballooning prices. In Fax: +381 (0) 38 549 285 Fax: +381(0) 38 244 929 region depend on oil imports, and the June alone, the country saw a 6.8% hike E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] record-high prices have spurred inflation. in gas prices, according to the Albanian Consumers feel their standard of living Institute of Statistics. In July, Eurodiesel BELGIAN LIAISON OFFICE JAPANESE LIAISON OFFICE eroding, while businesses scramble to reached 1.36 euros per litre. Address: Taslixhe 1, 23/A Address: Rexhep Mala 43 accommodate higher costs. Pristina 10000, Kosovo Pristina 10000, Kosovo Phone: +381(0) 38 734 734 Phone: +381(0) 38 245 433, 249 995 A handful of companies control Albania’s Fax: +381(0) 38 735 735 Fax: +381(0) 38 245 434 Regionally, Turkish consumers have been gas market, and prices seem to be going E-mail: [email protected] E-mail: [email protected], hit the hardest. They buy nearly the most in only one direction - up. Even when the [email protected] expensive gas in the world, paying close prices on the international market decrease, BULGARIAN EMBASSY to 2 euros for a single litre of unleaded this is not usually reflected in the Albanian Address: Ismail Qemali 12 – Arberia gas. Six years ago, a litre cost only 60 euro market. Pristina 10000, Kosovo LUXEMBOURG LIAISON OFFICE cents. Phone: +381(0) 38 245 540 Address: Metush Krasniqi 14 – Arberia Fax: +381(0) 38 245 543 Pristina 10000, Kosovo Many experts claim that the Albanian E-mail: [email protected] Phone: +381(0) 38 226 787 A full tank of gas now costs Turks around government is using the money collected Fax: +381(0) 38 226 787 105 euros – more than some domestic from the taxes on rising gas prices to reduce CHINESE CONSULATE E-mail: [email protected] flight tickets. The net minimum wage, the budget deficit. As in Serbia, authorities Address: Ismail Qemali 47 – Arberia meanwhile, is only around 254 euros a have made no move to lower the taxes to Pristina 10000, Kosovo MALAYSIA LIAISON OFFICE month. Not surprisingly, more and more ease the misery of consumers. Phone: +381 (0) 38 248 508 Address: Bedri Shala 48 – Velania are coming to rely on public transportation; Fax: +381(0) 38 249 126 Pristina 10000, Kosovo Phone: +381(0) 38 243 467 the first three months of 2007 saw a 10% Nearby Macedonia has also seen sharp CROATIAN LIAISON OFFICE Fax: +381(0) 38 243 464 increase in public transport use. price increases in recent months. A litre of Address: Fehmi Agani 68 – Arberia E-mail: [email protected] 95 octane Eurostar petrol now costs 1.26 Pristina 10000, Kosovo Another option is to buy a car powered euros per litre, 98 octane Eurosuper costs Phone: +381(0) 38 223 978 NORWEGIAN EMBASSY by Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG), 1.28, and Eurodiesel goes for 1.24 euros Fax: +381(0) 38 223 979 Address: Fidanishtja – Arberia or transform an existing car to an LPG per litre. E-mail: [email protected] Pristina 10000, Kosovo system, since a litre of LPG costs only 95 Phone: +381(0) 38 248 010 CZECH REPUBLIC EMBASSY Fax: +381(0) 38 248 202 euro cents. According to recent statistics, Besides making driving more costly, the Address: Ismail Qemali 31 – Arberia E-mail: [email protected] three of every ten cars in Turkish traffic run rising prices are also affecting the cost Pristina 10000, Kosovo on an LPG system. of central heating. The company that Phone: +381(0) 38 248 776, 225 860 ROMANIAN LIAISON OFFICE provides central heating to the capital, Fax: +381(0) 38 248 782 Address: Azem Jashanica 25 – Arberia Paradoxically, Turks are emptying their Skopje, has already filed for permission E-mail: [email protected] Pristina 10000, Kosovo wallets for gas even though the country from the Regulatory Commission to jack Phone: +381(0) 38 246 272 is nearby the world’s largest oil producers up its prices by close to an extraordinary EUROPEAN COMMISION Fax: +381(0) 38 246 273 Address: Rruga e Kosoves 1, E-mail: [email protected] and benefits from profitable contracts with 60%, the biggest hike in heating prices Pristina 10000, Kosovo them. The main reason is high taxes. In all, ever recorded in Macedonia. Phone: +381(0) 38 51 31 321, RUSSIAN CHANCERY taxes from fuel products constitute 13.9% 51 31 322, 51 31 323 Address: Eduard Liri 20 – Arberia of the country’s total tax revenues. To cushion the shock, the government Fax: +381(0) 38 51 31 305 Pristina 10000, Kosovo has put forward a number of measures, E-mail: Phone: +381(0) 38 247 112 While this may be good for the budget, it including lowering tolls and vehicle [email protected] Fax: +381(0) 38 247 113 is hurting consumers. Gas price increases registration fees, or charging trucks less E-mail: [email protected] EUROPEAN UNION ( ICO / EUSR PT ) have triggered inflation, with the rate for staying in clearance terminals. But Address: Ahmet Krasniqi – Arberia reaching 10.12%, the first two-digit level the authorities have not yet considered Pristina 10000, Kosovo SAUDI ARABIAN LIAISON OFFICE in two years. lowering existing taxes, a move called for Phone: +381(0) 38 20 44 201 Address:Hotel Grand, Pristina by the opposition. Fax: +381(0) 38 20 44 210 Pristina 10000, Kosovo The same stifling situation can be found Phone: +381(0) 39 249 203 across the Balkans - high gas prices, steep In Romania, diesel oil is more expensive EUROPEAN UNION taxes, and rising inflation. than gas. The only Romanian producer is PLANING TEAM FOR KOSOVO Address: Mbreteresha Teute 21 SLOVAK LIAISON OFFICE PETROM, in which the Austrian OMV Pristina 10000, Kosovo Address: Ismail Qemali 63 – Arberia Serbia, for example, is one of the ten most group has a majority share. A litre of ECO Phone: +381(0) 38 51 39 300 Pristina 10000, Kosovo expensive states in Europe when it comes Premium 95 now costs 1.14 euros and Fax: +381(0)38 51 39 333 Phone: +381(0) 38 240 140 to unleaded gas. As of July, one litre of unleaded premium 1.13 euros. A litre of Top E-mail: [email protected] Fax: +381(0) 38 249 499 unleaded cost up to 1.42 euros, while a litre Euro Diesel 4 goes for 1.24 euros, while a of Eurodiesel costs 1.38 euros. litre of Eurodiesel 4 is 1.22 euros. Romania DANISH LIAISON OFFICE SLOVENIAN EMBASSY has a robust auto sales market, and experts Address: Mother Theresa 2 Address: Anton Ceta 6 – Aktash Pristina 10000, Kosovo Pristina 10000, Kosovo As in Turkey, a major reason is taxes. believe the trend will continue, although Phone: +381(0) 38 248 709 Phone: +381(0) 38 246 255 The taxes on gas account for a whopping Romanians may shift their interest towards Fax: +381(0) 38 246 256 50% of fuel prices in Serbia, experts say. cars that cost less to fill up. DUTCH EMBASSY E-mail: [email protected], Moreover, the state-controlled company Address: Ekrem Rexha 17 – Arberia [email protected] Serbian Oil has a de facto monopoly over Romanian President Traian Basescu has Pristina 10000, Kosovo oil processing in Serbia. Due to its outdated called on political parties to work together Phone: +381(0) 38 224 610, 224 665 SWEDISH LIAISON OFFICE technology, oil-processing costs are among to find a solution, both for rising gas prices Fax: +381(0) 38 224 665 Address: Ekrem Rexha 6 – Arberia E-mail: [email protected] Pristina 10000, Kosovo the highest in Europe. and skyrocketing food prices. One proposal Phone: +381(0) 38 245 795 has been to reduce the VAT on either gas or FINNISH LIAISON OFFICE Fax: +381(0) 38 245 791 Serbia must now either find a way to lower food. But as in other countries, resistance Address: Eduard Lir 50 – Arberia E-mail: [email protected] costs, conserve energy or use alternative can be expected. Such a solution requires Pristina 10000, Kosovo fuels. Meanwhile, high inflation, currently adoption by parliament, and unions are Phone: +381(0) 38 243 098 SWISS EMBASSY at an estimated 15%, is increasing pressure already complaining. Fax: +381(0) 38 232 863 Address: Adrian Krasniqi 11 on the government to take action. The E-mail: [email protected] Pristina 10000, Kosovo Phone: +381(0) 38 248 090 authorities, however, have not committed -SEE Times FRENCH EMBASSY Fax: +381(0) 38 248 078 to lowering taxes. Address: Ismail Qemali 67 – Arberia E-mail: [email protected] Pristina 10000, Kosovo Phone: +381(0) 38 224 588 TURKISH EMBASSY Fax: +381(0) 38 224 588 Address: Imzot Nik Prela – Ulpiana Tadic says Serbia to continue search for Mladic, Hadzic Pristina 10000, Kosovo FYR-MACEDONIA LIAISON OFFICE Phone: +381(0) 38 548 557 Address: 24 Maji 121 – Arberia Fax: +381(0) 38 548 559 Serbia’s President Boris Tadic said last week that Serbia will continue to search for Pristina 10000, Kosovo E-mail: [email protected] notorious war crimes fugitives Ratko Mladic and Goran Hadzic, despite protests by Phone: +381(0) 38 247 462 ultra-nationalists following the arrest of Radovan Karadzic. This was Tadic’s first public Fax: +381(0) 38 247 463 UNITED KINGDOM EMBASSY E-mail: [email protected] Address: Ismail Qemali 5 – Arberia statement since Karadzic’s capture, which sparked a number of death threats against Pristina 10000, Kosovo him. Phone: +381(0) 38 249 559, 249 801 He added that Serbia would continue co-operating with The Hague war crimes tribunal. GERMAN EMBASSY Fax: +381(0) 38 549 799 “Today nobody can say that Serbia is not ready to apprehend those wanted by The Hague Address: Azem Jashanica 17 – Arberia E-mail: [email protected] Pristina 10000, Kosovo and show its full determination to co-operate with the institution. Those who intend to Phone: +381(0) 38 254 500 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA EMBASSY exercise additional pressure on Serbia (to arrest Mladic and Hadzic) are knocking on open Fax: +381(0) 38 254 536 Address: Nazim Hikmet 30 – Arberia doors because Serbia not only demonstrated its will and resolution but also took concrete E-mail: info2pris.auswaertiges-amt.de Pristina 10000, Kosovo Phone: +381(0) 38 59 59 3000, 549 516 measures to guarantee its co-operation,” Tadic said. Fax: +381(0) 38 549 890 As for Serbia’s EU prospects, Tadic said Belgrade will continue to pursue its EU bid, GREECE LIAISON OFFICE E-mail: [email protected] which he described as being in the country’s, “highest national interest.” He reiterated, Address: Ismail Qemali 68 – Arberia however, that Serbia would not pursue it in exchange for recognition of an independent Pristina 10000, Kosovo Phone: +381(0) 38 243 013, 247 370 Kosovo. “If someone thinks that this pro-European government will give up defending Fax: +381(0) 38 245 533 national interests for the sake of European prospects, they are wrong,” he said. E-mail: [email protected], [email protected]

10 EDITION 10 THE KOSOV@ POST AUGUST 11 2008 FOOD &DRINK GUIDE

PRISTINA PHOENIX RICE on FOOD RESTAURANTS Brigada 044 12 45 84 BISTRO ODYSSEA Perandori Justinian - Peyton PUBLICO 044-556-444 Garibaldi 7 044 62 69 27 CANTINA MEXICAN Qamil Hoxha 7/1 STRIP DEPO 044/ 049/ 038 - 710 710 Rexhep Luci Kosovo 038-222-888 COUNTRY HOUSE 044-444-710 CLUBS DE RADA FLIRT UCK, No 50 Youth center of Pristina National 038-222-622 049 646 464 GORENJE RESTAURANT CUBE Veternik Johan Hahn 2 038-557-700 044-124-584 Kitchen: GRESA DEPO Fehmi Agani23 UCK 038-245-841 044-246-707 HANI I 2 ROBERTEVE SPRAY Luan Haradinaj – Youth Veternik Burek Center of Pristina 044-118-518 044-112 609 / 044- 117 219 FAST FOOD SELECT BISTO HOME by Shannon Rice Migjeni 27 MAXIMUM BURGER 044-336-336 Rexhep Luci 20/1 Restaurant Location & Contacts Bosna, Rruga Mulla Idriz Gjilani #35 MOZAIK ROUTE 66 Dardania – Kurriz | 038 552 327 Sulejman Vokshi, H1 Luan Haradinaj 038-247-63 038-227 225 MUMTAZ MAHAL Metro Sandwich Shop When we travel back home, people often Indian Restaurant Garibaldi 3/1 want to know everything about Kosovo Ahmet Krasniqi - Arberi 044-113-000 044 114 726 but when it comes to food, how easy is it BOSNA 2 for us to describe the ‘Kosovar national PANNE VINO’s Mother Theresa kitchen?’ If we were to choose some of Fehmi Agani, No 10 044-375-436 044- 177 899 the most popular Kosovar dishes, what BOSNA 4 would they be? In the coming months PINOCCHIO Perandori Justinijan - Peyton I hope to not only explore many of the 24 Maj, No115 038-245-919 044-202 952 fantastic international restaurants around BAKERIES Kosovo but also to share experiences with PISHAT Kosovar food and perhaps even share Qamil Hoxha 11 LUMI some recipes! 038-245-333 Anton Ceta 044-115 586 PJATA After years of observing local friends and Gazmend Zajmi, No1 SARANDA colleagues it seems like one of the favourite 038 220 739 Nazim Gafurri and most commonly found meals comes PURO FERIZAJ in the form of burek. Simply described, Veternik RESTAURANTS Kosovo burek is an elongated filled pastry 044-658-515 that can be sweet or stuffed with a variety ROMANTIKA of different meats or cheeses. The most RINGS 2 290 28 28 3 Luan Haradinaj commonly found burek in Kosovo comes 038-244-290 LAUSANE filled with ground beef, feta cheese, potato, 044 142 397 or spinach. RRON Veternik TOPILLA 044-347-777 / 044 141-215 044 287 531 The origin of burek is the topic of great debate so I won’t even venture into guessing SELECT BISTRO NATURAL Fehmi Agani 1/1 Sojeve – Ferizaj or saying who invented it. However, burek 044 205 537, 044 323 378 seems to have come to Kosovo during 044 694 811 the Ottoman times. The burek dish can TIFFANY’s PEJA RESTAURANTS be found all over the Balkans in many you elect to have the yogurt as well. Fehmi Agani different forms and spellings as well as One of the first things I noticed was that 044-350-550 ART DESIGN Bosna is a noisy, fast-paced, fast-food Besides burek, Bosna also serves up Center shapes from spiral bun shapes in Bosnia to TOKYO BAR 039-431496 / 039 144-622 the long stick-like version in Kosovo. type of restaurant. Waiters yell the orders hamburgers and qebaps but burek is Bekim Berisha, No2 – over the counter to the chefs and food is definitely their specialty and must be tried. Arberia CALIFORNIA Center In my years in Kosovo I’ve had both constantly being laid out and whisked away Honestly, it would be a shame to leave 044 988 578, 044 373 537 to the outdoor or tiny indoor seating areas. Kosovo without trying really good burek 044-348-467 wonderful and horrible burek. With my VILLA GERMIA There appears to be a constant change of and experiencing the hustle and bustle of Germia’s Park PRIZEN varied experience I couldn’t help but RESTAURANTS wonder if my meandering through the patrons at the tables and just as we were a burektore. 044-517-741 getting ready to give up on getting a seat, streets of Kosovo had ever led me to XIX Shehzade Qebabtore experience the best burek, so I decided three tables became available. Go for the To find Bosna in Dardania, turn into the Luan Haradinaj, No2 Shadervan Square authentic seating, I urged, so we opted tunnel from Bill Clinton Boulevard and 044-300-002 to ask the experts. In a rough survey of Trattoria Due Kosovar friends, basically every single for sitting at a low marble table on little continue until the last parking area on brass “kiddie” stools. It seemed that an the right. The burektore can be found BARS/CAFES Fratelli: Great Italian person mentioned one burektore in Pristina Food and I discovered that one of the most international crouching down to eat at one along the tunnel side of the parking area. APARTMENT 195 A. Zurnaxhiu 10 of the little tables and thoroughly enjoying Expect to wait a few minutes for a seat Garibaldi 044 198 710 popular restaurants is hidden along the 044-410-021 tunnel of Dardania. a plate of burek was quite a novelty to the but be patient, as the customer turnover is Kosovars dining at Bosna, as I’m not sure phenomenal and it won’t be long before AVENUE BAR GJAKOVA I had previously been introduced to burek that many internationals have ventured you can grab a chair! Fehmi Agani 48 RESTAURANTS into the Dardania location. 04-610-210 in the Bosna burektore located on Mother RESTAURANT TE JUPAT Theresa and also frequented the Bosnas LOUNGE 19 Old government found in Pejton but I did not know one When you order up a plate of burek, the Garibaldi 19 044-129-389 existed in Dardania. According to the “burek master” slices off a portion from 044-208-092 the pan, quickly weighs it to make sure you Hotel & Restaurant Kosovars, Bosna Burektore in Dardania is LEGERE ROMA far superior to the other sister restaurants are receiving the appropriate portion (1/2 Perandori Justinian 2 - 044-602-009 and has maintained their level of quality kg), and slides it onto a shiny metal platter. Peyton through the years. So away I went with An enjoyable way to eat your burek is to 044-221-829 grab a container of yogurt and either dip rough directions of how to navigate the MYC tunnel to discover the best burektore in your burek in it or, as I like to do, pour a Garibaldi 21 Pristina, which are shared at the end of this bit on the top and drink the rest. A plate of 044-210-325 article. burek will cost you a measly 1€ or 1.30€ if

EDITION 10 THE KOSOV@ POST AUGUST 11 2008 11 PEOPLE Hi mom! We’re in Kosovo No, you don’t have to send money because these are the most generous people in the world by Arley Smude and Steven Hollenkamp

Everybody endures certain moments perhaps we were over our heads, but this foundation with four partial walls, likely by one of the more dangerous places we’d in their life where something becomes was certainly one. There is nothing scarier a product of the Enver Hoxha regime. ever been, we quickly learned of the true blatantly clear; they realize that it might than the unknown, nor more exciting. nature of Albania. They are a kind and be time for a change. Although these We ended up sleeping in what was once That morning, just eight hours after we humble people, ready to share with the thoughts become present, often times they a building. Now it is just a concrete questioned whether we were surrounded world their history and stories. Lacking a are not acted upon. But sometimes they common language, we realized how much are, and it’s a beautiful thing. We are in can be conveyed with smiles and hand our early twenties and decided it was time motions. for an adventure. Fortunately for us, an adventure was feasible. Fortune favors the It didn’t take long for word of our bold. We began our journey in northern presence to spread in this small village. Greece on the 22nd of July, 2008. Our favorite memory was taking shots of homemade grape whiskey at ten in Our goal was to ride our newly purchased the morning. “Gezuar!” we said with an bicycles across the Balkans and arrive elderly grandpa. His thick fingers were in Budapest in time to catch flights to worn and aged; these “burek” logs told a Bangkok, Thailand and Seoul, South Korea thousand stories with just a handshake. We on the 27th of August. The expectations played soccer with some children, fixed of the trip were pretty unknown; not our bikes and got on our way. Because much was certain more than a physical the area lacks maps and internet access, challenge. There is this interesting novelty it took us three days before we came to that comes from embarking on a journey terms with the topography of this land. It knowing it will change your life, but not has been a perpetual, sweaty, heart racing having the slightest clue as to how this feat of redemption. We love it. change will take place. It took us ten days to bike through We made our forecasts to our parents of Albania and arrive in Macedonia, three how the trip would progress, hoping to days through Macedonia and we’ve assuage the fears which developed as been in Pristina since. We’ve learned they realized their kids were about to ride many lessons in that time, one being through an unknown world while sleeping that if you bike through someone’s in cornfields and showering in rivers along country they adorn you with whatever the way. Deep down we knew though, our they have. There have been mountains, rational assessments at predicting this oh so many mountains. Our bikes are voyage would be futile. poor quality. And the wind, somehow, always seems to be blowing against us. We reached the southern Albanian border at dusk after our first day of biking But nothing has slowed us down more through the Greek mountains. Between than the kindness of the Albanian people. the two of us we knew two things about If a 75 year-old Albanian man offers Albania: the capital is Tirana and it is a you a cup of coffee, no matter your former communist country. We had our plans for biking a hundred kilometers passports stamped by a lone border guard that day, you take it. They gave us sitting in a small building with only an fruit, honey, drinks, and helped us with outdated computer and empty bookshelf anything we needed from directions to behind him. His hand had enormous bike maintenance. swelling, something that appeared to be permanent. It was dark now. As soon as A bright future lies ahead for Albania we passed through the gate the pavement and Kosovo. This is obvious to us for one ended and an uphill rock road began. We reason. The reason is not for its abundant walked our bikes up the road and into the resources or developing infrastructure, unknown. no, it’s much simpler than that. It is because of peoples’ generosity; which We saw only goats, small fox-weasel-like is a telling indicator of the potential to creatures scurrying in the distance and transform into a flourishing democracy. more stars in the sky than we knew were visible with the naked eye. This setting, Today is the 9th of August; our trip although romantic when described, was is exactly half over. The greatest frightening in the moment. The tires from surprise thus far has been the personal the bicycles slid around as we shoved connection that has developed between them through the rocks just as the lights us and the political transformation that from the border station faded out of sight. has taken place in the Balkans. We were “What have we gotten ourselves into?” not in Kosovo on February 17 of this year, and we were not alive for most of We just wanted to take a bike trip, test our Enver Hoxha’s reign. But we still feel strength and will, and learn a vague part it. We see it. In the people we meet, of the world through experience rather through the cities we ride through, we than Wikipedia. There have not been understand what has happened here, and many times in our lives when we’ve felt we will never forget it.

12 EDITION 10 THE KOSOV@ POST AUGUST 11 2008 ARTS Arta Dobroshi and Lorna storm the world’s film festival circuit The Silence of Lorna, starring the young money or legal residence. She meets Kosovar actress Arta Dobroshi as Lorna, Cloudi, a man with a history of drug continues its success at international movie abuse and decides to marry him. Her life festivals across the world. intertwines with the tragic paths when she begins an affair with a Russian criminal, After the successful debut at the Cannes linked to organized crime. The Russian film festival in France (where the film was criminal eventually begins to coerce her to nominated for the Golden Palm Award) give more drugs to her husband so she can and Karlovy Vary in the Czech Republic, marry the Russian afterwards. The Silence of Lorna rolled into the New Horizons Festival in Poland. However, the situation changes as the Russian criminal involved in a plot with After the premier presentation of The his Russian mafia pals reveals his real Silence of Lorna, critics highly evaluated intentions, ruining the life of the innocent the work, hailing it as one of the most Albanian. artistic European movies in a long time. Arta Dobroshi went down under after New According to one critic, The Silence of Horizons for the Melbourne International Lorna contains a superb narrative subject Film Festival. This festival is the largest and plot twists that are imbued with typical in Australia and is popular the world over, artistic features and combined with common attracting many Hollywood actors and European sensuality, which satisfies an directors. audience with diverse sensibilities. Arta Dobroshi is the first Kosovar actress The Belgian brothers, Jean-Pierre and to walk the red carpet at Cannes. During Luc Dardenne, always give audiences a an interview for the Kosovar dailies she remarkable impression of their unique was quoted saying that she felt like, “a style and rich characters and The Silence of real princess.” Arta elaborated about her Lorna is more proof of their brilliance. ‘someone pinch me, I must be dreaming’ state saying, “Fans and journalists enjoy Lorna is an Albanian that lives in Belgium. my performance and demand to have a She dreams of opening up a fast food glimpse of what I have to say, calling my restaurant but she does not have enough name ‘Arta, Arta, Arta’” Yo, photogs - Germany wants you to give them your best shot Photographers who believe they can capture participants an opportunity to reflect on the will have the chance to illustrate their from all over Kosovo.” the close relationship between Germany and German- Kosovar relations from a different perception through a good shot. Therefore, Kosovo in an image are encouraged to give perspective than the usual economical and we would also like to emphasize that we The contest is open to professionals and their best shots to the German Embassy in political standpoint. Thus, every participant are expecting the photographs to come hobbyists. A panel of judges chosen from Kosovo. the embassy’s cultural department, “will select the twelve most powerful images,” The embassy is holding a photography which will be used for a 2009 calendar. competition that opened August 1 and Those photos will also be displayed on closes August 31. the embassy’s website. “In case of a draw within the jury, the German Ambassador “The motives should convey an up-to date will take the final decision.” Winners will image of Kosovo and, at the same time, be awarded photo books. have a clear connection to Germany. This, for instance, could be a German license “The most important criteria will be plate, a German flag, German slogans or the both the quality of the shot and the any other motif which immediately makes persuasiveness of the short description the viewer think of Germany,” reads a press on why the motif is making the close release from the embassy. relationship between Germany and Kosovo visible,” reads the release The embassy’s media department explains, “The aim of this competition is to document the intensive relations between Kosovo and The photos should have a minimum Germany with the help of the photographs. dissolution of 2048 x 1536 dpi and be Many Kosovars have lived over a shorter submitted in .jpg - format with a short or longer period in Germany themselves, description, explaining why the image others have relatives living there. Hence we represents an up-to-date image of Kosovo want to show this close connection through and why, for the viewer, the connection to photographs.” Germany becomes obvious. The Germans make it clear that they are All photos have to be sent to more than willing to encourage participants the German Embassy via e-mail to to seek out the unusual, “We hope to offer the [email protected].

EDITION 10 THE KOSOV@ POST AUGUST 11 2008 13 DARK SIDE OF THE MOON Trinity Little Beautiful Prizren in the jumble of Dokufest The city of Prizren is one of the oldest cities in Kosovo, having existed since Roman times. To be more precise, Prizren has been recognized as a city since the second century A.D. At that time, as it was presented on the geographical maps of Ptolemeu, Prizren was known as Theranda. After several centuries it was known as Petrizên, which is where the name Prizren is derived from. PRI meant “fortress, town”. Once, Prizren was the capital of Kosovo and it was the center of Kosovar culture and intellectualism. This was Prizren under the occupation of the Ottoman Empire. In addition to its antique beauty, oriental architecture and historical monuments, today’s Prizren has one other thing for which other cities envy it. This other thing is Dokufest, the movie festival that is becoming known around the world. Dokufest was held, for the seventh time, in Prizren from August 4 – 10. During these days the city was overcrowded with not only movie fans but with tourists who were enjoying the beauty of the city. There are a lot of reasons why you should be in Prizren next year for Dokufest. The international movies screened during Dokufest are a welcome break from the typical faire served up by Hollywood and that, in and of itself, is reason to book the trip. But an even bigger reason is to introduce ourselves to Kosovar produced movies and share them with people fro around the Besides international documentaries, this was The Passion of Joan de Ark. The movie nearly empty. In the peoples faces I saw a world. Perhaps this is the main reason for year’s festival presented works by a large was shown with a bit of delay which proved kind of enthusiasm. They were drinking, Dokufest. Our culture is presented through number of Kosovars. Domestically produced to be too much for the impatient “movie celebrating …. but there were only a few movies to the entire world in this small movies were not hard to distinguish. If the fans” who fled the open air cinema in of them discussing the films they had seen. ancient city. The festival has changed over opening scene has a village, a dirty vehicle droves. The only justification for walking For a moment I was wondering, are there its seven years and keeps getting better. and commercial music, it is not necessary out on that film is having to travel a long more fans of Prizren or of Dokufest? Some changes have been enormous. This to put yourself into deep thought to know distance to get home that night and it was festival began, as does everything, as an that it is a Kosovar movie. close to midnight, so some can be absolved. I asked some peoples about this - whether idea. It was to be a small festival but even But I wish those who left had taken with they were fans of Prizren or Dokufest - small festivals can cost a lot of money. You don’t need much brain to realize that them some of the inconsiderate idiots who and they were both winners, the beautiful Dokufest has grown in size and stature it’s difficult to make art in Kosovo. Artists stayed behind who preferred conversation Prizren and the jumble of Dokufest enough to attract the sponsorship it needs everywhere struggle financially but more so to the film. to continue to improve and grow. But when in Kosovo. Compared to other forms of art, And, while I was turning back home I will government support other great small film production is expensive but movies are The crowds at that point were outside, in thought: there is no competition in art. festivals? When will our small festivals be the best medium to reflect the conditions the bars of Prizren and the cinema was recognized by the government and given and culture of a country. the financial assistance they need and deserve? Will we always have to play the Our directors and artists face financial role of mendicant for cultural happenings? difficulties every day. But I came to realize over the festival that they also lack ideas. It seems that our directors and screenwriters have only one idea to present us to the Are our world – a poor nation, always in search of itself, always chasing dreams and dashing screenwriters them at the penultimate moment (Sausage and directors bar); uneducated and eager to emigrate for are so ignorant only one reason – money (on the lake); that ignorance I was not exposed to so much as one line of is the only clever dialogue in any of the Kosovar films thing they see? I saw at Dokufest this year. Are we really a nation like that? Or are our artists just unprepared, irresponsible and so devoid of creativity that every movie has to be about a sausage, a cow and/or ignorance? The participants at the Dokufest this year This country of ours, where history has left were from all over the world, internationals its marks, is full of compelling plot lines. and Kosovars. Many of this year’s Are our screenwriters and directors are so participants also participated in previous ignorant that ignorance it’s the only thing years. This was the case with two English they see? brothers, Nigel and Klive Humberstone, who performed music during the screening The audience at Dokufest is increasing from of The Passion of Joan De Ark, a 1928 one year to another. But is the audience documentary which interpreted the poetry, really attracted by the competition, are they essays and life of Artonin Artaud. It is really movie fans, or are they just coming E-mail: [email protected] | [email protected] natural that this beautiful city would for the parties? Address: Mother Theresa, 10000 Prishtina, Kosova draw the two brothers back because they Tel: +381 38 220-210 / 220-211 / Ext: 359 Fax: +381 38 248-138 compliment each other. The last movie shown on the third night

14 EDITION 10 THE KOSOV@ POST AUGUST 11 2008 FUN & GAMES ACROSS DOWN last week’s answers |reversed| 1: Spoiled kids 1: Insulting remark 6: Indication 2: Tape spool 10: Menlo Park monogram 3: ‘Cessa di più resistere,’ for one 13: Eagle’s nest 4: Two-bit gamblers 14: Per ___ 5: Go down 16: Building wing 6: Starch from palms 17: Bring back together 7: Tactical advancements CROSSWORD 19: Nice handle 8: Knot in a tree 20: Borrrring 9: Kook 21: Like Richard and Yorick? 10: Novice Boy Scout 22: Walks in water 11: Burn soother 24: Pindar product 12: Boulevard liners 26: Declare with positiveness 15: Acted kittenish? 28: Get close to 18: Olympic weapon 32: Worshiper 23: In the past 35: Flying solo 25: South Beach, e.g. 36: Ancient Egyptian emblems 27: Glasgow girl 38: Winter ailment 28: Big businessman 39: Farm alarm 29: Choose the window instead of 41: Bony the aisle? 44: Choose 30: Ottomans 45: Motion-carrying votes 31: Not one 47: Battery terminal 33: Duck 48: Empty ___ 34: Sneaky stratagems 51: Recent arrivals in the world 37: Sit before a lens 53: Early on-line protocol 40: Make money 55: Amethyst or tourmaline 42: Rational 56: Rolling musician? 43: Like some porcelain pieces 58: Little bit 46: Permit 60: Black, to a bard 49: Half a score 64: Seek favor with 50: Campaign poster plea 65: Cord in some backyards 52: Type of arch 68: Hole punch 54: Be a ham 69: King or queen 56: Did the butterfly 70: Coppers in Coventry 57: Expensive car trips? 71: Mag. submissions 59: ‘___ Came You’ (1974 Dionne 72: Adolescent Warwick and Spinners chart-topper) 73: Mixed in 61: Tough spot 62: Formerly 63: Exigency 66: Like cherries jubilee 67: Resort hotel Advertise in Nobody reaches the expatriate and diplomatic community living in Kosovo more effectively than the Kosov@ Post. Phone Ariana Osmani at 038 225 895 or email to her at [email protected] for a media package.

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16 EDITION 10 THE KOSOV@ POST AUGUST 11 2008