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Natural Materials for the Textile Industry Alain Stout
English by Alain Stout For the Textile Industry Natural Materials for the Textile Industry Alain Stout Compiled and created by: Alain Stout in 2015 Official E-Book: 10-3-3016 Website: www.TakodaBrand.com Social Media: @TakodaBrand Location: Rotterdam, Holland Sources: www.wikipedia.com www.sensiseeds.nl Translated by: Microsoft Translator via http://www.bing.com/translator Natural Materials for the Textile Industry Alain Stout Table of Contents For Word .............................................................................................................................. 5 Textile in General ................................................................................................................. 7 Manufacture ....................................................................................................................... 8 History ................................................................................................................................ 9 Raw materials .................................................................................................................... 9 Techniques ......................................................................................................................... 9 Applications ...................................................................................................................... 10 Textile trade in Netherlands and Belgium .................................................................... 11 Textile industry ................................................................................................................... -
Pashmina Shawls
Pashmina Shawls March 27, 2021 About Pashmina Shawls In 2019, the Bureau of India Standards (BIS) published an Indian standard for identification, marking and labelling the Pashmina Shawls for its purity. Pashmina Shawls are a fine variant of shawls spun from cashmere wools. A cashmere wool itself is obtained from the Changthangi goat native to the high plateau of Ladakh. Pashmina Shawls status symbol not just for the wealthy in Indian but even across the world, known for its soft features, The shawl made up of pashmina wool was promoted as an alternative to Shahtoosh shawl. Shahtoosh Shawls is made from the Tibetan Antelope. Due to demand for Shahtoosh, the shawl had wiped out 90% of the Tibetan Antelope. To preserve what population is left, other alternatives, like the pashmina shawl, are being considered. History of Pashmina Shawls Pashmina shawls gained much prominence in the days of the Mughal Empire as objects of rank and nobility. Babur first established the practice of giving khilat – giving ‘robes of honour’ – in 1526 to members of his court for their devoted service, high achievements or as a mark of royal favour, made of Pashmina wool. Upon the complete conquest of Kashmir in 1568 by Akbar, a pair of pashmina shawls were an integral part of a khilat ceremony. Pashmina Pashmina is a fine type of cashmere wool. The wool comes from a number of different breeds of the cashmere goat; such as the changthangi or Kashmir pashmina goat from the Changthang Plateau in Tibet and part of the Ladakh region and few parts of Himachal Pradesh. -
Wild Mammals of the Annapurna Conservation Area Cggk"0F{ ;+/If0f If]Qsf :Tgwf/L Jgohgt' Wild Mammals of the Annapurna Conservation Area - 2019
Wild Mammals of the Annapurna Conservation Area cGgk"0f{ ;+/If0f If]qsf :tgwf/L jGohGt' Wild Mammals of the Annapurna Conservation Area - 2019 ISBN 978-9937-8522-8-9978-9937-8522-8-9 9 789937 852289 National Trust for Nature Conservation Annapurna Conservation Area Project Khumaltar, Lalitpur, Nepal Hariyo Kharka, Pokhara, Kaski, Nepal National Trust for Nature Conservation P.O. Box: 3712, Kathmandu, Nepal P.O. Box: 183, Kaski, Nepal Tel: +977-1-5526571, 5526573, Fax: +977-1-5526570 Tel: +977-61-431102, 430802, Fax: +977-61-431203 Annapurna Conservation Area Project Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Website: www.ntnc.org.np Website: www.ntnc.org.np 2019 Wild Mammals of the Annapurna Conservation Area cGgk"0f{ ;+/If0f If]qsf :tgwf/L jGohGt' National Trust for Nature Conservation Annapurna Conservation Area Project 2019 Wild Mammals of the Annapurna Conservation Area cGgk"0f{ ;+/If0f If]qsf :tgwf/L jGohGt' Published by © NTNC-ACAP, 2019 All rights reserved Any reproduction in full or in part must mention the title and credit NTNC-ACAP. Reviewers Prof. Karan Bahadur Shah (Himalayan Nature), Dr. Naresh Subedi (NTNC, Khumaltar), Dr. Will Duckworth (IUCN) and Yadav Ghimirey (Friends of Nature, Nepal). Compilers Rishi Baral, Ashok Subedi and Shailendra Kumar Yadav Suggested Citation Baral R., Subedi A. & Yadav S.K. (Compilers), 2019. Wild Mammals of the Annapurna Conservation Area. National Trust for Nature Conservation, Annapurna Conservation Area Project, Pokhara, Nepal. First Edition : 700 Copies ISBN : 978-9937-8522-8-9 Front Cover : Yellow-bellied Weasel (Mustela kathiah), back cover: Orange- bellied Himalayan Squirrel (Dremomys lokriah). -
Why Pashmina Goat Produces Long Hair-Fiber and Barbari Doesn’T: a Differential Gene Expression Study
Preprints (www.preprints.org) | NOT PEER-REVIEWED | Posted: 5 March 2021 doi:10.20944/preprints202103.0187.v1 Why Pashmina Goat Produces Long Hair-fiber and Barbari doesn’t: A Differential Gene Expression Study Rashid Saif 1, 2, Tania Mahmood2, Aniqa Ejaz2, Saeeda Zia3 1 Institute of Biotechnology, Gulab Devi Educational Complex, Lahore, Pakistan 2 Decode Genomics, Punjab University Employees Housing Scheme (II), Lahore, Pakistan 3 Department of Sciences and Humanities, National University of Computer and Emerging Sciences, Lahore, Pakistan Corresponding author: [email protected] Abstract: The Pashmina and Barbari are two famous goat breeds found in the wide areas of the Indo-Pak region. Pashmina is famous for its long hair-fiber (Cashmere) production while Barbari is not-selected for this trait. So, the mRNA expression profiling in the skin samples of both breeds would be an attractive and judicious approach for detecting putative genes involved in this valued trait. Here, we performed differential gene expression analysis on publicly available RNA-Seq data from both breeds. Out of 44,617,994 filtered reads of Pashmina and 55,995,999 of Barbari which are 76.48% and 73.69% mapped to the ARS1 reference transcriptome assembly respectively. A Pairwise comparison of both breeds resulted in 47,159 normalized expressed transcripts while 8,414 transcripts are differentially expressed above the significant threshold. Among these, 4,788 are upregulated in Pashmina while 3,626 transcripts are upregulated in Barbari. Fifty-nine transcripts harbor 57 genes including 32 LOC genes and 24 are annotated genes which were selected on the basis of TMM counts > 500. -
Field Guide Mammals of Ladakh ¾-Hðgå-ÅÛ-Hýh-ºiô-;Ým-Mû-Ç+Ô¼-¾-Zçàz-Çeômü
Field Guide Mammals of Ladakh ¾-hÐGÅ-ÅÛ-hÝh-ºIô-;Ým-mÛ-Ç+ô¼-¾-zÇÀz-Çeômü Tahir Shawl Jigmet Takpa Phuntsog Tashi Yamini Panchaksharam 2 FOREWORD Ladakh is one of the most wonderful places on earth with unique biodiversity. I have the privilege of forwarding the fi eld guide on mammals of Ladakh which is part of a series of bilingual (English and Ladakhi) fi eld guides developed by WWF-India. It is not just because of my involvement in the conservation issues of the state of Jammu & Kashmir, but I am impressed with the Ladakhi version of the Field Guide. As the Field Guide has been specially produced for the local youth, I hope that the Guide will help in conserving the unique mammal species of Ladakh. I also hope that the Guide will become a companion for every nature lover visiting Ladakh. I commend the efforts of the authors in bringing out this unique publication. A K Srivastava, IFS Chief Wildlife Warden, Govt. of Jammu & Kashmir 3 ÇSôm-zXôhü ¾-hÐGÅ-mÛ-ºWÛG-dïm-mP-¾-ÆôG-VGÅ-Ço-±ôGÅ-»ôh-źÛ-GmÅ-Å-h¤ÛGÅ-zž-ŸÛG-»Ûm-môGü ¾-hÐGÅ-ÅÛ-Å-GmÅ-;Ým-¾-»ôh-qºÛ-Åï¤Å-Tm-±P-¤ºÛ-MãÅ-‚Å-q-ºhÛ-¾-ÇSôm-zXôh-‚ô-‚Å- qôºÛ-PºÛ-¾Å-ºGm-»Ûm-môGü ºÛ-zô-P-¼P-W¤-¤Þ-;-ÁÛ-¤Û¼-¼Û-¼P-zŸÛm-D¤-ÆâP-Bôz-hP- ºƒï¾-»ôh-¤Dm-qôÅ-‚Å-¼ï-¤m-q-ºÛ-zô-¾-hÐGÅ-ÅÛ-Ç+h-hï-mP-P-»ôh-‚Å-qôº-È-¾Å-bï-»P- zÁh- »ôPÅü Åï¤Å-Tm-±P-¤ºÛ-MãÅ-‚ô-‚Å-qô-h¤ÛGÅ-zž-¾ÛÅ-GŸôm-mÝ-;Ým-¾-wm-‚Å-¾-ºwÛP-yï-»Ûm- môG ºô-zôºÛ-;-mÅ-¾-hÐGÅ-ÅÛ-h¤ÛGÅ-zž-Tm-mÛ-Åï¤Å-Tm-ÆâP-BôzÅ-¾-wm-qºÛ-¼Û-zô-»Ûm- hôm-m-®ôGÅ-¾ü ¼P-zŸÛm-D¤Å-¾-ºfh-qô-»ôh-¤Dm-±P-¤-¾ºP-wm-fôGÅ-qºÛ-¼ï-z-»Ûmü ºhÛ-®ßGÅ-ºô-zM¾-¤²h-hï-ºƒÛ-¤Dm-mÛ-ºhÛ-hqï-V-zô-q¼-¾-zMz-Çeï-Çtï¾-hGôÅ-»Ûm-môG Íï-;ï-ÁÙÛ-¶Å-b-z-ͺÛ-Íïw-ÍôÅ- mGÅ-±ôGÅ-Åï¤Å-Tm-ÆâP-Bôz-Çkï-DG-GÛ-hqôm-qô-G®ô-zô-W¤- ¤Þ-;ÁÛ-¤Û¼-GŸÝP.ü 4 5 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS The fi eld guide is the result of exhaustive work by a large number of people. -
Surveys at a Tibetan Antelope Pantholops Hodgsonii Calving Ground Adjacent to the Arjinshan Nature Reserve, Xinjiang, China: Decline and Recovery of a Population
Surveys at a Tibetan antelope Pantholops hodgsonii calving ground adjacent to the Arjinshan Nature Reserve, Xinjiang, China: decline and recovery of a population W illiamV.Bleisch,PaulJ.Buzzard,HuibinZ hang,DonghuaX U¨ ,ZhihuL iu W eidong L i and H owman W ong Abstract Females in most populations of chiru or Tibetan Leslie & Schaller, 2008). Despite the remoteness of chiru antelope Pantholops hodgsonii migrate each year up to 350 km habitat, however, there was an upsurge in poaching during to summer calving grounds, and these migrations charac- the 1980s and 1990s for its extraordinarily fine wool known terize the Tibet/Qinghai Plateau. We studied the migratory as shahtoosh (Wright & Kumar, 1998). Poaching raised the chiru population at the Ullughusu calving grounds south- threat of extirpation for many chiru populations (Harris west of the Arjinshan Nature Reserve in Xinjiang, China. et al., 1999; Bleisch et al., 2004; Fauna & Flora International, 2 The 750–1,000 km of suitable habitat at Ullughusu is at 2004). Competition with livestock for grazing has been and 4,500–5,000 m with sparse vegetation. We used direct meth- continues to be a threat and, more recently, infrastructure ods (block counts, vehicle and walking transects and radial development, fencing of pasture and gold mining have point sampling) and an indirect method (pellet counts) become increasing problems (Bleisch et al., 2004; Fauna & during six summers to assess population density. We also Flora International, 2004; Xia et al., 2007; Fox et al., 2009). witnessed and stopped two major poaching events, in 1998 Chiru are categorized on the IUCN Red List as Endangered and 1999 (103 and 909 carcasses, respectively). -
Of the Chang Tang Wildlife Reserve in Tibet
RANGELANDS 18(3), June 1996 91 Rangelands of the Chang Tang Wildlife Reserve in Tibet Daniel J. Millerand George B. Schaller eastern part of the cious steppes and mountains that Chang Tang Reserve sweep along northern Tibet for almost based on our research in 800 miles east to west. The chang the fall of 1993 and sum- tang, a vast and vigorous landscape mer of 1994. We also comparable in size to the Great Plains discuss conservation of North America, is one of the highest, issues facing the reserve most remote and least known range- and the implications lands of the world. The land is too cold these have for develop- and arid to support forests and agricul- ment, management and ture; vegetation is dominated by cold- conservation. desert grasslands,with a sparse cover of grasses, sedges, forbs and low shrubs. It is one of the world's last Descriptionand great wildernessareas. Location The Chang Tang Wildlife Reserve was established by the Tibetan Located in the north- Autonomous governmentin of the Region western part 1993 to protect Tibet's last, major Tibetan Autonomous wildlife populationsand the grasslands Region (see Map 1), the depend upon. In the wildernessof Reserve they Chang Tang the Chang Tang Reservelarge herdsof encompasses approxi- Tibetan antelope still follow ancient mately 110,000 square trails on their annual migrationroutes to A nomad bundled the wind while Tibetan lady up against miles, (an area about birthing grounds in the far north. Wild herding. of the size Arizona), yaks, exterminated in most of Tibet, and is the second in maintain their last stronghold in the he Chang Tang Wildlife Reserve, area in the world. -
Pashmina Wool–A Valuable Commodity
International Journal of Avian & Wildlife Biology Mini Review Open Access Pashmina wool–a valuable commodity Abstract Volume 3 Issue 6 - 2018 The conversion of goat hair into Pashmina was investigated. Pashmina is obtained Herbert W Ockerman from the Changthangi goats found in the Himalayan regions. The nomadic herders and The Ohio State University, USA animals that live in these regions have to adapt to harsh environments. The Pashmina goats play an important role in the livelihoods of the nomadic herders. Correspondence: Herbert W Ockerman, The Ohio State University, Ohio, USA, Email Keywords: changthangi, pashmina, goat, cashmere, himalayas, ladakh Received: November 01, 2018 | Published: November 16, 2018 Introduction The study investigated the ethnozoological aspects of agriculture in hostile environments and the production of the finest wool in the world. Changthangi or Pashmina goats can tolerate high altitude and the harsh environment of the Himalayan desert by growing an undercoat of fine hair which serves as insulation to keep them warm. This is the origin of pashmina wool. The research showed that the animals found in these regions such as yak, sheep and goats play a critical role in allowing humans to exist in a harsh environment. The elevation of these regions is upwards of 4,350 m (14,270 ft.) which causes a lack of oxygen, cold temperatures ranging from –20°C (–4°F) to –40°C (–40°F), strong winds, meager rainfall and lack of vegetation. This report will focus on the domestic Changthangi (or Pashmina) breed which produces wool that is known for its firmness, warmth, durability, lightness, softness and ability to Figure 2 Pashmina goat, sheep and yak herding. -
Review of Literature
References ….…………….….….………………………….……………… REFERENCES Abdel Rahman, H. and Kandil, A.A. (1984): Seasonal variation in mating behaviour of male goats in association with some semen characteristics. Minufiya J. Agric. Vol. 9: 256. Abdel Rahman, H.; El Alamy, M. A.; Danasoury, M. S. and Nebar, A. F. (1983): Seasonal variation in some physical and biochemical characteristics of goat semen. 1st Hungarian Egyptian Conf. Anim. Prod. Godollo, Hungary: 58 Abdel-Razek, A.K. and Ali, A. (2005): Developmental changes of bull (Bos taurus) Genitalia as Evaluated by Caliper and Ultrasonography. Reprod. Dom. Anim. 40, 23 Abou-El-Roos, M. E. A. (1996): Some studies on the reproduction in female Baladi goat. Ph.D. thesis. Vet. Med. Zagazige Univ. Benha branch, Egypt. Abou-El-Roos, M. E. A. (2004): Evaluation of buffalo- bulls by using modified serving capacity test and diagnostic ultrasound. J. Egypt .Vet. Med. Associ. 64, (5): 17 Abou-El-Roos, M. E. A. and Abdel-Maksoud, H. (1998): Confirmation of sexual behavior during post- partum period in female Zariabi goat using Luteinizing hormone. Zag. Vet. J. 26, 2: 94. Ahmed, E. F. (1980): Body composition study. M. V. Sci. Thesis Cairo Univ., Egypt. Ahmed, N. and Noakes, D.E. (1995): Seasonal variation in testis size, libido and plasma testosterone concentration in British goats. J. Anim. Sci. 61: 553. -206- ………………..……………………………………….………... References Ahmed, N.; Noakes, D. E. and Subandrio, A. L. (1991): B-Mode real time Ultrasonographic imaging of the testis and epididymis of sheep and goats. Vet. Record, 128: 491. Akusu, M.O.; Agiang, E.A. and Egbunike, G.N. (1984): Ejaculate and seminal plasma characteristics of the West African Dwarf buck (WAD). -
Identification Guidelines for Shahtoosh & Pashmina
Shahtoosh (aka Shah tush) is the trade name for woolen garments, usually shawls, made from the hair of the Tibetan antelope (Pantholops hodgsonii). Also called a chiru, it is considered an endangered species, and the importation of any part or product of Pantholops is prohib- ited by U.S. law. Chiru originate in the high Himalaya Mountains of Tibet, western China, and far northern India where they are killed for their parts. Their pelts are converted into shahtoosh, and horns of the males are taken as trophies. No chirus are kept in captivity, and it reportedly takes three to five individuals to make a single shawl (Wright & Kumar 1997). Trophy Head with Horns of male Pantholops hodgsonii SHAWL COLORS Off-white and brownish beige are the natural colors of the chiru’s pelage. Shahtoosh shawls in these natural colors are the most traditional. How- ever, shahtoosh can be dyed almost any color of the spectrum. Unless the fibers are dyed opaque black, most dyed fibers allow the transmission of light so that the internal characteristics are visible under a compound microscope. (See "Microscopic Characteristics" in Hints for Visual Identification.) DIFFERENT PATTERNS AND/OR DECORATION SIZES - Solid color - Standard shawl 36" x 81" - Plaid - Muffler 12" x 60" - Stripes - Man-size, Blanket 108" x 54" - Edged in wispy fringe - Couturier length (4' x 18' +) - Double color (each side of shawl is a different color) - All-over embroidery APPROXIMATE PRICE RANGES Cost Wholesale Retail Plain $550-$1,000 $700-$2,500 $1,500-$2,450 Pastels $700-$850 $1,300-$2,600 $1,800-$3,000 Checks/Plaids $600-$1,500 $800-$1,180 $1,300-$2,450 Stripe $600-$800 $1,300-$1,800 $2,450-$3,200 Double color $800-$1,000 $1,380-$2,800 $2,100-$3,200 Border embroidery $850-$3,050 $1,080-$1,600 $1,500-$3,200 All-over embroidery $800-$5,000 $1,380-$5,500 $3,000-$6,500 White $1,800 $2,300 $4,600 Above prices are for standard size shawls in year 2000. -
Endangered Species (Import and Export) Act (Chapter 92A)
1 S 23/2005 First published in the Government Gazette, Electronic Edition, on 11th January 2005 at 5:00 pm. NO.S 23 ENDANGERED SPECIES (IMPORT AND EXPORT) ACT (CHAPTER 92A) ENDANGERED SPECIES (IMPORT AND EXPORT) ACT (AMENDMENT OF FIRST, SECOND AND THIRD SCHEDULES) NOTIFICATION 2005 In exercise of the powers conferred by section 23 of the Endangered Species (Import and Export) Act, the Minister for National Development hereby makes the following Notification: Citation and commencement 1. This Notification may be cited as the Endangered Species (Import and Export) Act (Amendment of First, Second and Third Schedules) Notification 2005 and shall come into operation on 12th January 2005. Deletion and substitution of First, Second and Third Schedules 2. The First, Second and Third Schedules to the Endangered Species (Import and Export) Act are deleted and the following Schedules substituted therefor: ‘‘FIRST SCHEDULE S 23/2005 Section 2 (1) SCHEDULED ANIMALS PART I SPECIES LISTED IN APPENDIX I AND II OF CITES In this Schedule, species of an order, family, sub-family or genus means all the species of that order, family, sub-family or genus. First column Second column Third column Common name for information only CHORDATA MAMMALIA MONOTREMATA 2 Tachyglossidae Zaglossus spp. New Guinea Long-nosed Spiny Anteaters DASYUROMORPHIA Dasyuridae Sminthopsis longicaudata Long-tailed Dunnart or Long-tailed Sminthopsis Sminthopsis psammophila Sandhill Dunnart or Sandhill Sminthopsis Thylacinidae Thylacinus cynocephalus Thylacine or Tasmanian Wolf PERAMELEMORPHIA -
Ladakh Pashmina Towards Prosperity and Sustainability
Ladakh Pashmina towards prosperity and sustainability PASHMINA POLICY Leh, Ladakh Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Council (LAHDC) Foreword It is a matter of great pride that Pashmina, one of the finest fabrics of the world, originates from the Changthang region of Eastern Ladakh. The story of pashmina is the story of this region. Grown by nomadic and semi-nomadic herders braving the harshest weather conditions, Ladakh pashmina is known for its fine micron size. The fabric has shaped the geo-politics of this region since the 17th century. In more recent times, Ladakh pashmina has largely been traded into parts of Kashmir where it has been spun and woven into products and hence acquired the name cashmere1 a term more widely used to represent wool produced from regions along the Tibetan plateau, Mongolia and Central Asia. Despite the rich history and tradition of this fabric, herding communities of Changthang who have kept the tradition of Ladakh pashmina alive, face tremendous challenges to sustain this vocation. There are questions of whether coming generation of Changpa youth will continue in this tradition or choose to move into other vocations centered in Leh. It would be unfortunate if we allowed Ladakh to lose this tradition to the forces of change. We must, therefore, address this challenge with the herders of Changthang at the center of our thinking. Ladakh pashmina accounts for no more than 1% of the global cashmere market, with a majority of the cashmere being produced in China (75%) and Mongolia (19%) which have much larger grazing lands compared to Ladakh. Despite Ladakh pashmina’s superior quality, our low market share and general market fluctuations render it difficult and less profitable for us to compete in the bulk international cashmere market.