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Huddersfield Fine Worsteds in CHAP HUDDERSFIELD FINE WORSTED uddersfield Fine Worsteds, who supply traditions created in the early days and produces many of Earl of Bedlam’s fabrics, some of the most iconic Huddersfield fabrics, incorporates fabric names such as including ‘Fresco’, world renowned as the ultimate Broadhead & Graves, Learoyd Broth- travel cloth and trademarked in 1907. The new Hers, Martin & Sons, Hunt & Winterbotham, J.J. Fresco Lite, launched this year, a finer version of Minnis, John G. Hardy and Hardy Minnis. Hardy the original Fresco, has found favour with the best Minnis is the only fabric merchant with a Royal tailors and designers around the world. Warrant, awarded for supplying our famous Alsport When an attempt was made on Ronald Tweed to the Balmoral Estate. Huddersfield Fine Reagan’s life in 1981, he was wearing his brand- Worsteds fabrics are used by some of the world’s new Fresco suit. It turns out the fabric is not leading tailors and designers, such as Louis Vuitton, bulletproof after all, and he was almost as con- Paul Smith, Ralph Lauren, Huntsman, Anderson & cerned that the suit had been ruined as he was Sheppard, and Henry Poole. about being shot. So a replacement was arranged The history of Huddersfield Fine Worsteds with his tailor immediately. dates back to 1830, when cloth was hand scoured Boxer Conor Mcgregor wore Huddersfield in the Huddersfield village of Kirkheaton. Hardy Fine Worsteds infamous custom woven fabric Minnis traces its roots back to the 16th century in before his recent fight. The suit made the headlines the village of Cam in the Cotswolds. due to the cheeky wording in the stripe. The company still proudly adheres to the www.hfwltd.com 85 Profile EARL OF BEDLAM Founders of bespoke tailors Earl of Bedlam, Mark Wesley and Caroline Butler, explain how the label came about, and provide clothes for our photo feature on pages 86-97 Portrait © Jill Furmanovsky/rockarchive.com ell us about your sartorial inspira- coat lined with custom printed silk that was based tions from the beginning of your on a Dior raincoat of Caroline’s mother’s, on which career. Antony worked with us on the pattern, which was a T We’ve both always been obsessed by clothes great moment; a confluence of heroes. – dressing up and showing off, some might say. Although we never knowingly collided, we were How was Earl of Bedlam first founded? both involved in the London club scene in the Mark was working on another label and Caro- 80s/90s and that provided an endless theatre of line was recruited from her lair in Los Angeles to costume. Caroline’s mother worked at Harrods as help with a launch in the US. They met in New a fashion buyer, so clothes and shows were ever present. We both adored Antony Price, the off-stage York and rented a suite at the Chelsea Hotel, the member of Roxy Music and the man who married one where Sid done in Nancy, and showcased the music to La Mode. We made a full skirted rain- the clothes there. This was all so much fun, they 82 decided to dedicate effort to creating their own the biggest amount they’ve ever spent on clothes. the buttons, printing on to silk an engrav- label. Mark was living in the South of France and We try to be respectful of that and make it ing of the seven gods for the lining. Caroline was on the West Coast, so the only fair enjoyable as well as worthwhile. In an ever more thing was for them both to come back to London. homogenous world, people are seeking out some- Tell us about your take on tradition- thing that’s unique to them. al garments such as tweed jackets, What was your intention for the brand when mackintoshes and smoking jackets. you started it? What sort of people do you make clothes for? To describe someone as “tweedy” wasn’t To take the best of tradition but not be intimidated It’s natural that people tend to fixate on our better- always a compliment, but it’s all about by or in thrall to it. To build a reputation on the known clients. “How success likes to dress” is a line what you do with it. What is so inspiring endorsement of people who we had introduced to we’ve used. It’s been great for us that Nile Rodgers is the through-line of craftsmanship and their best-looking selves. To make beautiful clobber. (a Founding Father of EoB), Simon Le Bon and that magical kaleidoscope that is revealed Goldie, for example, wear their Bedlam out and when you stare deep into the eyes of the Has it turned out to fulfil your expectations? about and on stage. However, it is without question cloth and see all those colours. Likewise We started with a little ramshackle shop, and now Mr and Mrs Smith of Kennington and its environs, with our macs, we use Ventile, the wonder we have our ‘By Appointment Atelier’, which of whom nobody has heard, who supported us fabric invented at Manchester University. sounds grand but simply means we can schedule from the day we opened the door of our little shop When we made our jeep jacket and our day, and not be held to ransom by little old at the Oval. They were so relieved that we weren’t thought it needed a bit of something, ladies coming in to ask if we sell a kettle. another fried chicken shop or estate agent that they we quilted the collar and it took on the “No, sorry, we’re tailors.” came in, laid down their hard-earned money and air of a smoking jacket. So we called “Oh, sorry love! What about a toaster?” trusted this funny couple to make their suits. And it the ‘General Patton’, as he liked to they still do! smoke a cigar while riding in an open-top What’s the set-up between the two of you – armoured vehicle. His granddaughter who does what for Earl of Bedlam? Where do you source your fabrics, linings Helen had us make her a suit for the We both design. Mark trained as a pattern cutter so and details like buttons? ceremony to mark the anniversary of the he can be technical while I source fabrics, unusual The majority of our fabric comes from Huddersfield Battle of the Bulge. We called it ‘The buttons and linings. We both sew but I’m on the Fine Worsted, with whom we have a great relation- Victory of the Curves’. hand stitching while Mark’s on the scary machines. ship (one of their bunches is even called ‘Bedlam’). If you surround yourself with talented people, The support they have given us from the beginning What does the future hold for Earl you have to hope some of it rubs off! Ian Vincent has been crucial in getting and keeping us going. of Bedlam? Will you ever consider is a great friend and a hugely respected graphic Likewise, Philip & Martin of Crescent Trading, making a ready-to-wear range? designer. We call him our Auxiliary Art Director, the last old-school clothiers in Spitalfields, have We would love to do that, but you need a and he knows there’s always an unpaid job for him been a huge help to us from day dot, as they have shedload of capital to get and keep those if his career tanks. so many fashion college students and young wheels turning. However, on December designers on their books. 1st, Earl of Bedlam is being launched in Modern bespoke tailoring used to be seen Linings we get from HFW or Harrisons, and of Stockbridge, at Bergman & Brown, so we as the exclusive preserve of rich people who course we are known for printing custom linings. are making a limited number of standard shop on Savile Row. Do you think this is These are printed for us by Hatley Print, and that’s sizes for them, and should the good peo- changing? another example of a great relationship where we ple of Hampshire wish to order bespoke, We try to promote democratic style, offering Savile can rely on their judgement and skill to make each we can bop back and forth to provide it. Row quality at Lambeth Walk prices, and we’ve commission the best it can be. It will be the only place aside from our had quite a few people come to us after patronising For buttons, we have gone as far as Santa Fe studio to bag your bit of Bedlam. Nobody experiences elsewhere. Some people spend a lot for a silver skull button, but generally we can find can accuse us of over-expanding too fast, on holidays, or their car, and other people want to all we need and more from the Button Queen in so we’re really thrilled about this. Even have the experience of dressing bespoke. We are Marylebone, eg the set of Satsuma ceramic though there will be standard sizes, we always conscious that it’s a significant amount of buttons, each depicting one of the Seven Lucky come from couture not cookie-cutter, so money, whoever it is coming from, but if someone Gods of Japan, that we acquired for Niponophile we always do what we can to give people has saved up for their wedding suit it’s quite likely musical god Nile Rodgers. We built his suit round exactly what they want. n www.earlofbedlam.co.uk 83 84 ANDREW ROBERTS (LEFT) Prince of Wales check trousers, “The Piccalilly Strides”: £490 Waterproof jeep coat, “The General Patton”, in olive Ventile, lined with London Plane Tree “barking mad” camo silk printed by Hatley Print: £1,300 Socks by Jollies.
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