Photo: Göran Assner, Henrik Trygg, Jurgen Wickert, Urban Jören, Frank Heuer. Your guide to and Sweden Friendly urbanity , Gothenburg & Malmö — modern cities close to nature

A Swedish culinary voyage A flavourful journey from the apple groves of Skåne to the mountain creeks of Lapland

Gothenburg Set off on a Thriving culture in Camilla Läckberg’s Swedish stories by the sea seafood safari Gothenburg Fjällbacka from fairy tales to “Swede-crime”

www.gothenburg.com

www. westsweden.com

@WestSwedenTB facebook.com/GothenburgWestSweden Welcome to Fjällbacka — a jewel of the west coast! Contents 3

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Contents

04 Stockholm — the city on fourteen islands 10 Gothenburg — city of the sea Sweden — the best 12 Malmö — gateway to the continent 14 Sweden goes gay 15 A vibrant, contemporary and creative of both worlds tradition 20 My Swedish food trip First-timers to Sweden are typically struck by two things. 26 See Sweden from the sun deck 28 Swedish stories — from fairy tales Firstly, the country’s progressiveness in every respect — from to ”Swede-crime” technology, design, fashion and lifestyle to consumption 34 Become a child again habits and societal systems. And secondly, an authenticity 36 Nature — Sweden’s national religion in the natural world, and in the Swedish people’s fondness 40 Nature’s Best — experiences on nature’s terms for their history, heritage, customs and traditions. Cruise control to Sweden 42 Swedish gems We often boast that Sweden offers the best of both worlds — all the benefits and attractions of contemporary Taking your car to Sweden? Let us share the driving. With a choice of short 44 Travel facts 45 Accommodation society, but few of its common disadvantages. If you’ve routes and frequent crossings or longer overnight journeys, you can decide how 46 Transportation ­visited ­Sweden you know what we mean. Welcome to much time you want to spend driving and how much time you’d like to spend 47 Tour operators ­Sweden — the country we love. 47 Regional tourist boards onboard. When you see our fabulous ferries, you’ll wonder why you never took 48 Scheduled air routes this route before! 49 Ferry routes 50 Map Remember, book early to get the best fares.

VisitSweden Sweden 2013 was printed by an environmentally- Stortorget 2 − 4 Tel (Ireland): 01 247 5440 certified printer, on chlorine-free bleached paper, SE-831 30 Östersund, Sweden E-mail: [email protected] which is produced from FSC-certified pulp. This means www.stenaline.co.uk Tel (UK): 020 7108 6168 the pulp comes from environmentally appropriate, E-mail: [email protected] Opening hours: 8:00 − 17:00 ­socially beneficial and economically viable forestry or call 08447 70 70 70 Fax: +46 63-12 81 37 () ­operations. City break Stockholm 4 5

Top: The world’s most beautiful city? In Stockholm you can experience the history and View of the medieval island Riddar­ ­culture of several of our country’s great eras, from the Stockholm — the city holmen and the Old Town, the water- ways flowing out to the Stockholm Middle Ages on. The Stockholm of today is a dynamic, ­Archipelago, and the tower of the fast-growing, multicultural city. It is recognised inter- on fourteen islands City Hall in the foreground. nationally as a leader in the development of progres- sive innovations, trends and behaviour patterns in Classic Svenskt Tenn, one of Stockholm’s The royal Swedish capital of Stockholm is frequently referred to as one of the world’s most foremost furniture, design and gift shops. lifestyle, environment and, in particular, technology attractive cities. Its beauty is a result of its magnificent location, spread across fourteen and communications. islands in the heart of the spectacular Stockholm Archipelago. The combination of dramatic Outdoor cafe at the picturesque Mose- We often boast that Stockholm has all the advan- backe Square in the chic, bohemian beauty, historic splendour and contemporary buzz gives Stockholm its unique attraction. tages and assets of a contemporary world centre with ­district of Södermalm. few of the downsides and nuisances. Stockholm offers an enormous diversity of experiences, sights, attrac- tions and night-life. In terms of fashion, art, ­design, gastronomy and other creative pursuits, the Stock- holm scene has — justifiably — received plenty of pub- licity on the global stage in recent years. Today the city has two distinct nodes of urban creativity, ­culture and entertainment: one is the chic, established district around the squares of Stureplan and Norrmalmtorg, the city centre and exclusive Östermalm, and the ­other is the younger, trendier, more ­experimental and ­bohemian Södermalm. Still, what sets Stockholm apart most of all is its ­incomparable juxtaposition of sophisticated urbanism and wild, majestic nature. Untouched wilderness and magnificent marine worlds surround and crisscross Stockholm in all directions, including Ekoparken, the only urban national park of its kind in the world. The city’s extensive stretches of coastline, whether quay- side or forested, are accessible for a stroll — or why not paddle a kayak alongside them, or navigate between them on ice skates in the winter. The water that Al fresco relaxation at Lydmar ­surrounds the city is clean enough to swim in and fish Hotel, just across the water from. Stockholm is a metropolis where you can enjoy from the Royal Palace. the outdoors literally steps from a vibrant urbanity — and vice versa. It’s a happy combination that gives Stockholm a quality of life you won’t find elsewhere.

Waiting staff at the popular Boqueria restaurant in the new www.visitsweden.com Mood shopping centre, which serves quick, tasty modern and www.visitstockholm.com traditional tapas. www.boqueria.se Other dining suggestions: Frantzén/Lindeberg — a small ­restaurant in the Old Town, with a big reputation for innovative cooking and two Michelin stars, aiming for a third. Ranked as ­Sweden’s best restaurant. www.frantzen-lindeberg.com Gubbhyllan at Skansen. Classic Swedish fare with an elegant modern twist. Local, organic ­ingredients are prepared with love, in a fascinating historical environment. www.gubbhyllan.se City break 6 PHOTO: JEPPE WIKSTRÖM City of green and blue Stockholm’s Gems

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1. Moderna Museet destination that can also be reached by boat from photographic art in the old customs house at Stadsgård One of the world’s foremost museums of modern art. central­ Stockholm. www.kungahuset.se Quay in Stockholm, with beautiful views of the water, The collection of international pop art is world re- city and parks. Today, everyone is convinced of the nowned. Marcel Duchamp and Picasso are well repre- 4. Stockholm Archipelago idea! Fotografiska has proved a monumental success, sented. Of course this is also the place for everyone Yes, Stockholm is fantastic. But many people would and has positioned itself as one of the world’s foremost with an interest in contemporary Swedish art. Located ­argue that the city's most magnificent attraction is the arenas for photography, with exhibitions by the biggest in central Stockholm, on the museum island of Skepps­ unique expanse of islands surrounding it: the Stockholm international names and an ambitious programme. It’s holmen, which previously belonged to the Navy. The Archipelago, with more than 30,000 islands and islets. an attractive destination that also features a popular island is an idyllic destination for a walk, with several It ­offers an extraordinary wealth of natural experiences, restaurant with outdoor seating and a museum shop. interesting museums, restaurants and cafés. The adventures, destinations and sights, accessible more www.fotografiska.eu ­Moderna has a sister museum in Malmö. or less throughout the year. From central Stockholm www.modernamuseet.se you can access the entire archipelago on the classic 7. The Vasa Museum white steamboats. Much of the archipelago can also A museum without equal. The 69-metre long warship, 2. Skansen be reached by other means of public transport. Vasa, sank on her maiden voyage in Stockholm’s harbour, The world’s oldest and possibly most beautiful open-air www.visitstockholm.com in 1628. It was salvaged in 1961 and has, slowly and museum, with a collection of historical buildings from meticulously, been restored to near-original glory over various periods and many parts of the country. Located 5. Old Town and Royal Palace almost half a century. It is the world’s only preserved on Royal Djurgården island in the National City Park, Stockholm’s historical Old Town is Europe’s largest and 17th-century ship. As Sweden’s most visited museum, with fantastic views of the city. There’s also a zoo best preserved medieval city centre. It offers an enor- it is being extended to deal with the constantly growing with Swedish animals, a children’s zoo, traditional mous selection of sights, shopping, restaurants, cafés patronage. The Vasa Museum will open new sections crafts, restaurants, cafés, a market, traditional Christ- and pubs in the picturesque narrow streets and alleys. in 2013. www.vasamuseet.se mas celebrations, entertainment venues and many other The gateway to the Old Town is the Royal Palace, attractions. A must-see! ’s largest and most stately of its kind. 8. Artipelag www.skansen.se The palace alone has no less than five museums, a large Spectacular new art venue and destination on the island number of guided tours, and the changing of the guards. of Värmdö in the Stockholm Archipelago. Opened in 3. Drottningholm Not to be missed either is the adjacent island of Riddar­ the spring of 2012. Located in beautiful scenery, with She isis built built on on 14 14 greenery-covered greenery-covered islands islands with with sparkling sparkling blue blue A common misconception is that Drottningholm Palace, holmen, a hidden treasure with a history going back to stunning sea views. In addition to exhibition space, the residence of the Swedish royal family, is a Scandi- the 12th century. In December the locals flock to the ­Artipelag’s more than 10,000 square metres of floor water in in every every direction. direction. Welcome Welcome to the to thehome home of history, of history, culture culture navian replica of Versailles. The fact is, the two are Old Town’s traditional Christmas market with its area includes two restaurants with outdoor dining as and stunningstunning scenery. scenery. Meet Meet her her at visitstockholm.comat visitstockholm.com contemporaneous. Drottningholm was built as early charming red cabins. www.visitstockholm.com well as spaces for events. The property is large, with as the late 17th century. The palace and park, as well www.kungahuset.se beautiful nature walks. It’s an ideal destination for a day as the unique palace theatre, are a UNESCO World trip, as it combines art with outdoor experiences. Arti­ Heritage Site. Another gem is the Chinese Pavilion, a 6. Fotografiska pelag has a permanent collection as well as exciting gift from King Adolf Frederick to Queen Louisa Ulrika Many people were sceptical when, in 2010, Fotografiska temporary exhibitions and events. Accessible by bus on her birthday in 1753. Drottningholm is a wonderful opened its 5,500 square metres of exhibition space for or boat from central Stockholm. www.artipelag.se Your Sweden holiday specialist since 2005

Winter favourties Summer favourties ICEHOTEL West Sweden Northern Lights Göta Kanal cruise Lapland Gotland Stay in style! Skiing in Åre Treehotel Staying at Elite Hotels is much more than just checking into a hotel, it’s staying in style! You find our hotels located centrally in all major Swedish cities, all with a unique 0845 8900 300 character and most with a long history! We look forward to welcoming you to Sweden! www.simplysweden.co.uk www.elite.se | +46 (0)771-788 789 tailor made holidays to sweden

VisitSweden_EliteHotels_2013_final.indd 1 11/20/2012 11:45:36 AM Flying to 20 MINUTES Mystery is Better when Sweden? ARLANDA AIRPORT STOCKHOLM CITY 15% Shared Sheraton Stockholm Then you probably will arrive in Stockholm, discount Millennium Experience Göteborg or Malmö. And you know what? Book online: arlandaexpress.com Discover the beautiful If you choose us for your airport transfer city of Stockholm with our you will reduce both costs and emissions. GETAWAY Millennium Guide Book and walk in the footsteps of Best city locations author Stieg Larsson.

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The offer is subject to availability at our Swedish hotels. ©2013 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Sheraton and its logo are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. Buy your ticket at *In a double room, single supplement applies. www.fl ygbussarna.se City break Gothenburg 10 11

Opposite page, top: Aschebergs­ gatan 24, a design shop in the Gothenburg charming, pedestrian-friendly centre of Gothenburg. — city of the sea Opposite page, bottom: Gothen- burg has a global reputation as a seafood mecca. Restaurant Gothenburg — city of commerce, culture and ­Gabriel in the city’s Fish Market ­entertainment — has always been influenced serves super-fresh seafood from by its location by the sea. the clean cold waters of the North Atlantic. www.restauranggabriel.se Gothenburg’s essence and character emanate from its Other dining suggestions: coastal location amidst the pink-tinged granite of the The elegant Kock & Vin, with salty Bohuslän Archipelago. Historically, trade and a Michelin star, serves modern ­international cuisine. Ranked shipping have been the city’s driving forces. Today the third in the country in the ferry traffic to numerous northern European cities, an ­prestigious White Guide. advanced commercial shipping industry and pleasure www.kockvin.se craft from far and wide give Gothenburg an inter­ Bhoga. Small, recently opened restaurant by the canal. Pleasant, national, maritime flavour. The city is still an important relaxed atmosphere and ambitious centre for trade and industry, and the home of cor­ international cuisine based on porations like Volvo and SKF. In recent decades it has Swedish ingredients. Reasonable undergone an exciting post-industrial transforma- prices. www.bhoga.se tion. The shorelines on both sides of the Göta River have developed from industrial/port precincts to This page: Seaside city with modern waterfront neighbourhoods. ­maritime influences. View of the Gothenburg’s pedestrian-friendly city centre offers port and river, with four-masted barque , launched in 1906, an attractive selection of culture, shopping, sights, in front of the Gothenburg Opera restaurants and nightlife. On the car-free streets of House. Popular summer restau- the picturesque Haga district and in the blocks around rant, Port Du Soleil on the city’s waterfront, has a dining room, Magasinsgatan, you’ll find an array of interesting large lounge with sunbeds and places selling creative fashion and design, music, ­renowned night club. ­second-hand and vintage goods and books, as well as bars, restaurants and cafés. The Art Gallery is a beautiful, classic museum with a first-rate collection of 19th and 20th century Scan- dinavian art, and older international works. The Röhsska is one of Scandinavia’s foremost museums for design and crafts, with a large collection of its own large Christmas markets are held at and other as well as interesting temporary exhibitions. Univer- places around town. seum and the are dynamic In recent years Gothenburg has received coverage additions to the museum mix. The Botanical Garden in the international press as an exciting culinary is well worth a visit. The music scene is particularly ­destination, with four Michelin-star restaurants and vibrant, with the outstanding Gothenburg Symphony many more first-class eateries. Seafood from the west Orchestra, Sweden’s national orchestra, under the coast is much acclaimed and Gothenburg is the best ­direction of Kent Nagano. During the warmer months, place to enjoy it. And don’t miss the famous ‘Fish major international artists descend on the city for big Church’, where seafood is sold and auctioned. music festivals like Way Out West and Metaltown. From Gothenburg you can make excursions to a Gothenburg is a leading entertainment and events number of picturesque destinations in the Bohuslän city in Scandinavia. At the beautiful Liseberg amuse- Archipelago, with a wide range of adventures such as ment park and the extensive events district adjoining lobster safaris and sea kayaking. it there are trade fairs, concerts and all sorts of events that attract visitors from around the world, throughout the year. Christmas in Gothenburg has developed into www.visitsweden.com something special, when the entire downtown area www.goteborg.com becomes a carnival of lights and decorations, and City break Malmö 12 13

Malmö, Sweden’s third largest city, is an old Malmö — gateway ­shipbuilding and industrial centre. It has under- gone a metamorphosis in recent years, since ­being linked to the Danish capital of to the continent by the spectacular Öresund Bridge.

Now the two cities are just 25 minutes apart, and the Left: Some of the many outdoor cafés and restaurants at the daily interaction between them is intense. Malmö, multicultural Möllevång Square, ­today a multicultural melting pot, has built an inter- famous for its diversity of national reputation as a creative, progressive and ­ethnic restaurants and food ­environmentally aware city. For centuries Malmö stores. was part of , and on a walk around its cosy Right: Belle Epoque — a popular centre you can clearly see a continental style of archi- meeting place in restaurant- tecture that differs from the more northerly Swedish packed Malmö. It’s a neighbour­ hood bistro with a friendly, cities. The area around the medieval square Lilla Torg ­relaxed atmosphere and and the majestic Stora Torget is home to a diverse ­creative, modern cooking range of attractive restaurants, bars and cafés, design based on first-class local shops, museums and galleries. A five-minute walk ingredients. www.belle-epoque.se takes you to the growing new neighbourhood of Other dining suggestions: Västra hamnen, with the Turning Torso skyscraper, ­Bastard Mat & Vin. Hugely a modern, exciting meeting place for people from the ­popular restaurant and entire region, with many popular restaurants, bars, ­meeting place, hip, happy and friendly, with a long zinc clubs and shops. Malmö has a strong art scene, and bar and well-made traditional in 2009 Stockholm’s Moderna Museet opened its fare with an international southern subsidiary here. There’s also Malmö Konst­ touch. hall — an unusually beautiful venue and a number www.bastardrestaurant.se of interesting galleries. The music scene is also vibrant, Bloom in the Park. Experi­ with a range of dynamic venues for classical, rock, jazz mental, creative restaurant, and all types of club music, such as Debaser Malmö currently ranked number one and Kulturbolaget. in the city. Doesn’t use a menu or winelist. Just jump on for Malmö’s restaurant scene has evolved massively in the ride! the past decade. In and around the city centre there is www.bloominthepark.se now a large number of top-notch restaurants and ­culinary destinations, many specialising in cuisine based on fine local and seasonal ingredients. The streets around Möllevången in central Malmö offer a selection of ethnic foods virtually unparallelled in northern Europe. The new seaside district During the warmer months, life in Malmö is in­ of Västra Hamnen, with fluenced by its seaside location and the long Ribers- spectacular views of borg Beach next to the city centre. From Malmö you’re the Sound, is a vibrant meeting place for the just 30 minutes by car from a number of attractive, entire region. historically interesting destinations, picturesque towns, villages and manor houses in the fertile, ­undulating Skåne countryside. Stroll in the picturesque Gamla Väster district — a beautiful example of how an old city www.visitsweden.com centre can be restored. Its ­centre is the charming square, www.malmotown.com Lilla Torg, which goes back to the Middle Ages.

One of Malmö’s many multicul- tural food stores, selling goods from all over the globe. Gay Swedish lifestyle 14 15

Sweden

Glass vase by goes gay Martti Rytkönen for Orrefors.

We’re delighted that Sweden is often ranked as Europe’s most gay-friendly country.

Sweden is a country that values tolerance, diversity and respect, where everyone is welcome regardless of origins, opinions and orientation. Unlike many ­cities overseas, Swedish cities don’t have specific ­gay-friendly districts; the venues are sprinkled throughout an array of neighbourhoods. The Swedish capital, Stockholm, is known inter­ nationally as a gay-friendly city that has been genu- inely transformed in recent years, with a rich, diverse and constantly growing selection of clubs, meeting places and events. In particular the lesbian scene has boomed. Many of the best-known spots are in the A vibrant, ­districts of Södermalm and the Old Town. Torget in the Old Town is a classic place to get together and find contemporary and out what’s going on in town. The restaurant Roxy is one of several lesbian favourites. In summer there’s Spring/summer 13 by ­Altewai Saome, new creative tradition Mälarpaviljongen, set up on three barges off the isle star in Swedish fashion of Kungsholmen — a stunning location with a perfect design. groove, seven days a week. Stockholm Pride Week in In recent decades we have witnessed a broad-based August has grown into Stockholm’s biggest public Groundbreaking cuisine revolution in Swedish creative culture — a phenomenon from Frantzén/Lindeberg, party, with an enormous selection of events and with two Michelin stars, that has generated considerable buzz in the global ­festivities. Of course the parade is the highlight, and their sights set on ­media. In a major international survey a few years ­drawing some 50,000 participants and about half a third. ago, Sweden was ranked as the world’s most creative a million spectators. Another indication of the nation. There can be no doubt that Swedish creatives ­significance of Pride in Swedish society is that many have made a strong global impact in the spheres of of our leading politicians take part. music, design, fashion, film, marketing, multimedia, Sweden’s two other cities, Gothenburg and Malmö, art, cuisine and more. are also gay-friendly destinations with a diverse range We now have the explanation for this well-known of attractions and venues. For info on everything phenomenon. Swedes are a well educated, well that’s happening on the gay scenes in our Swedish ­travelled people, extremely open to influences from ­cities, there are a number of frequently updated abroad — influences which they have always been able ­websites and groups, including: to transform into something of their own, something new, fresh and innovative. A notable trend on the Swedish scene is how to- Twitter: GayStockholm + LesbianSthlm day’s creatives seek inspiration not only from outside, www.visitstockholm.com/gay-lesbian from the global scene. They also look inward and www.stockholmpride.org/en/ backward, to our own Swedish cultural history. It’s www.facebook.com/StockholmInFullGlory Above left: Mälarpaviljongen on the Kungsholmen water- fascinating to see how our classic folk expressions and www.qx.se/english/ front, one of Stockholm’s most popular gay locations in forms are continually rediscovered in new interpreta- summer. The Pride Parade in Stockholm draws over 50,000 tions by talented young Swedes. participants and half a million spectators. One field where Sweden is undoubtedly a global ­superpower is design, in the broadest sense. Swedish design is a well-established phenomenon among ­connoisseurs worldwide. Its history goes back to the Swedish lifestyle Swedish lifestyle 16 17

18th century, but it was during the 20th one of the world’s largest design happenings, Fashion Weeks in spring and autumn attract more artistic and cutting-edge Swedish ­century that a long list of Swedish designers with loads of interesting exhibitions and more international attention every year. It ­fashion brands. These include Ann-Sofie in a range of fields became household names events for the public. was in the broad-based, trend-conscious Back, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, Rodebjer, internationally. In the 21st century we have A couple of years ago when people started low- and medium-priced segments that The Local Firm, Carin Wester, Ida Sjöstedt, seen a broad-based renaissance in Swedish talking about a “Swedish fashion miracle”, Swedish fashion started to make its mark Camilla Norrback, Sandra Backlund and design. Stockholm, Gothenburg and Malmö the phrase might have seemed exaggerated. about a decade ago. Naturally with retail ­AltewaiSaome — to name just a few. And are home to a number of museums, galleries But a few seasons later, the prophesy has ­giant H&M as a key driver. Brands such as ­every season there are new designers making and shops — good news for everyone with an proved correct. Sweden, and in particular Filippa K, J. Lindeberg, Whyred, Hope and their debut on the catwalk at Stockholm interest in the distinctive Swedish style. Stockholm, has positioned itself firmly as Acne began to build their reputations with Fashion Weeks. Other places well worth a visit are the one of the most exciting, dynamic and inno- their clean, low-key and wearable, yet very Especially in Stockholm, but also in ­Kingdom of Crystal in Småland. For design vative fashion scenes outside the big, estab- updated, on-trend and clever looks. Acne, in ­Gothenburg and Malmö, you’ll find flagship lovers a good time to visit Stockholm is lished capitals. Media and bloggers keep particular, has achieved global success and stores for an array of Swedish fashion brands. ­during the Furniture Fair in February. It’s their eyes on the city, and the Stockholm set an example for a profusion of younger, Also not to be missed is the excellent selec- tion of vintage shops located in the larger Swedish centres, many blending new and old, fashion and design. Interested in Swedish handicrafts? You can find interesting museums and shops in all the larger cities, as well as throughout the countryside, where the traditions are very much alive. One of the most renowned craft- producing provinces is Lapland in the far north, with beautiful Sami pieces, tradition- ally made from reindeer horn, silver and leather. Swedish crafts have their true stronghold in Dalarna province and the ­districts around the beautiful Lake Siljan, with the characteristic kurbits painting. This is also the home of the small wooden Dala Farmhouse in Hälsingland, on UNESCO’s World horse, a national symbol. Traditions are alive Heritage List. Interior from Kristofers in Stene. Exterior Fägelsjö Farmhouse. and well here, with the colourful folk ­costumes, varying from village to village, Samis in traditional costume. In their culture, proudly worn at midsummer celebrations. blue represents water as the elixir of life, red is the flame of heat and love, yellow is the sun in Nudie Jeans, Sweden’s largest long-lasting life and green, plants and nature. international jeans brand, takes the environment seriously.

Shoe from the globally acclaimed fashion house, Acne.

My Granddaughter’s Cabinet, made of birch, oak and cherry, by Lisa Hilland for Gärsnäs.

Contemporary embroidered waist band. Svensk Hemslöjd had its centenary in 2012. Throughout Sweden,crafts are thriving. C ulture iN

By train to Dal Sweden’s horizons Travel to northern Sweden, and the wilderness that greets you will stretch as far as the eye can see. The train sweeps across these great expanses, cutting through mountains on its way to the ocean where killer whales play alongside the hull of the boat. Get off at an isolated station, pack your rucksack and head for the wilds. Drink water straight from the rippling mountain streams, fish and cook dinner yourself. Come here in mid-winter, and experience the thrill of amazing plains of untouched snow glistening under the magic we call Northern Lights. The adventure is yours for the taking. Go north with SJ, two spartan tracks that lead straight to the wilderness. A convenient and comfortable way to discover Sweden. ar Find out more at www.sj.se/english

Swedish Railways

Foto: Idre Fjäll Locatedna in the center of Sweden and with an outline resembling the shape of a human heart, Dalarna is deeply rooted in the traditions of the Swedish folk culture. It has always been one of Sweden’s most popular destinations, offering its visitors a wide range of world-class experiences: genuine hospitality, breath- taking nature, authentic Midsummer celebrations, internationally renowned SAIL TO artists. Make getting there as good as being there Rent a bike and explore our forests and mountains; enjoy the exceptional acoustics of an opera performance at Dalhalla; admire the works of Carl Larsson SWEDEN and Anders Zorn and discover the homes of these cherished Swedish painters. Welcome to an unforgettable vacation full of amazing impressions. Welcome to When you take the one and only ferry route from the adventure and recreation, traditions and modern lifestyle. Welcome to Dalarna. UK to Scandinavia your holiday begins the moment you drive on board. Choose your restaurant and en- joy live music at the bar. Take a stroll on deck and after a good night’s sleep arrive refreshed and ready for the scenic drive through Denmark to Sweden. You can also access central and northern Sweden via our Copenhagen to route.

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Price is subject to availability and based on 2 sharing a sea view cabin with carriage of a standard size car. Credit card and telephone booking fees apply. Terms & conditions apply, visit dfds.co.uk/terms. Calls cost up to 10p per minute plus network extras. Culinary 20

Fredrik Eriksson is one of Sweden’s most famous chefs. He has featured on TV for twenty years, and has won numerous awards, including Chef of the Year. Eriksson runs the popular restaurant, Långbro Värdshus, south of Stockholm. Join him on his trip through culinary Sweden.

Småland — lingonberries, cheesecake Gotland — the sunny island with The famous Gotland sheep and contemporary food craft the fine ingredients graze freely in the open ­cultural landscape. Cheese Vimmerby is the home of the ’s Summer, sun and holiday — that’s Gotland. from Stafva gårdsmejeri. World theme park, with over half a million visitors In my opinion it’s most beautiful and most relaxing off ­Apples from Österlen in ­annually. I collaborate with the restaurants there. We season, for instance on an early-spring bicycle ride. Skåne. Influential herbal have stopped serving standard theme park fare, such That’s when ramson and sand leek thrive in the lime- focus at Karin Fransson’s Hotel Borgholm. as pizzas, hamburgers and French fries. Instead we rich Gotland soil. Both of these delicate wild onions offer well-made, traditional local food, as mentioned are used in soups, salads and more. Gotland also gives in Astrid Lindgren’s books: local isterband sausages, us the saffron pancake that we always serve in the cheese cake (Småland style), potato dumplings and Christmas buffet at Långbro Värdshus. The island has lingonberry jam, to name just a few. Småland has a first-rate animal husbandry. The renowned Gotland long-standing reputation for its entrepreneurial spirit, lambs and beef cattle graze freely in the poetically and this tradition is evident in contemporary food barren countryside. All over the island, the food craft “Österlen on the east coast craft. Here you’ll find lots of talented, ambitious pro- scene buzzes with entrepreneurial spirit. Träkumla of Skåne has a poetic beauty. It’s the garden of Sweden, ducers who grow and refine the local ingredients, and Rom has started making rum from sugar beets. and apple heaven. In spring maintain and advance traditional cuisine. PM & Vänner At Stafva Farm Dairy they produce delicious dessert the apple orchards are in My Swedish food trip in Växjö, one of Sweden’s top-ranking restaurants, is cheeses called Blå, Vit and Ockra, plus several full bloom and in autumn a pioneer in this respect. And nestled in the heart of other types. we harvest our sumptuous Swedish apple varieties with “Following the progress of Swedish culinary culture the famed Kingdom of Crystal is the Kosta Boda Art enchanting names such as in recent years has been an enormous pleasure. Hotel, where food and glassware merge in a synthesis Skåne — the province of fertile soils ­Aroma, Signe Tillisch, Alice Swedish cuisine and our Swedish ingredients and of culture and gastronomy. The province of Skåne used to be called and Ingrid Marie. Their charac- flavours are finally getting plenty of attention “Sweden’s breadbasket”. It has the country’s teristic crisp, fresh flavour comes from ripening slowly from overseas. It’s well deserved. Öland — isle of herbs most fertile soils. Here the generous harvests are in the open countryside. Sweden is a long, narrow country, extending all Öland, the long, skinny island east of ­collected earlier than in the rest of the country. In Many farms have their of 1,572 km from Treriksröset in the north to the Småland mainland, is famous for its a good year, the country’s first new potatoes are own ­facilities for making apple juice.” Smygehuk in the south. Our 25 provinces have unusual plain, the Great Alvar, a UNESCO World ­harvested as early as May and are a genuine delicacy. different cultures and historical backgrounds, and ­Heritage Site. This is where chef Karin Fransson In Skåne the star chef, Anders Vendel, serves up varying potential for agriculture, animal husband- picked her herbs long before “locally grown” became a brilliant cooking at the restaurants Sandskogen and ry, fishing and hunting. The ingredients and the culinary concept. At her Hotel Borgholm, Fransson Sture, with innovative menus based on local ingredients climate have shaped the local cuisines, as have runs a groundbreaking kitchen based on these herbs and traditions. Throughout Skåne you’ll find res­ the traditional methods of making use of harvests and locally grown ingredients. Many great chefs have taurants in beautiful settings where you can enjoy and catches from meadows, forests, lakes and trained with Fransson. Öland has a strong tradition of ­exquisite seasonal, local ingredients, prepared with the ocean — methods such as smoking, salting, harvest festivals and other food-related events. On a contemporary touch and respect for culinary heritage. boiling, souring and curing. Join me on my Öland they pay tribute to classic Swedish foodstuffs An important day in Skåne is the traditional goose ­Swedish food trip!” like the brown bean and traditional dishes like potato dinner on November 10, with goose blood soup as an dumplings. entrée, followed by roast goose, and then egg cake. In Skåne they also raise top-quality chickens, such as the Bosarp ecological chicken. Culinary 22

“Right through the autumn, Gothenburg, Bohuslän and the Gästrikland — the herring province visitors to the west coast can West Coast — seafood mecca There’s good reason to label the herring as the sample fantastic shellfish. The lobster safaris in October Sweden’s second city, Gothenburg, is a seafood mecca, most Swedish of all foodstuffs. This small yet are an experience not to be and one of the country’s foremost culinary strong- ­noble fish has historically been the Swedes’ most missed. Oyster lovers should holds. It has a well-established tradition of handling important food, alongside the potato. Herring is the make a beeline for the fishing and preparing fish and shellfish. Visitors mustn’t miss star of all our traditional holiday buffets. Böckling, or huts in Grebbestad, where ninety percent of the the city’s number one delicacy: freshly caught boiled buckling in English, is herring soaked in brine and Swedish oysters are prawns, simply enjoyed with a dollop of mayonnaise, hot-smoked over spruce or juniper. This traditional sourced.” freshly baked bread and a glass of white wine — method imparts a lovely golden colour and a delicious ­preferably in the famous “Fish Church” fish market. flavour. North of Gävle in Gästrikland there are Of the many excellent restaurants, the most classic ­buckling smokehouses in the old fishing sheds that dot is Sjömagasinet, where many talented chefs have the coastline - perfect for sitting in the autumn sun, trained. eating buckling on crispbread. One revered tradition The austerely beautiful west coast, and the barren, in the Swedish north is surströmming — fermented windswept islands in the archipelago are dotted with Baltic herring, known for its powerful smell — or picturesque fishing villages. Marstrand, Smögen, stench, as some would say. It’s not my personal favourite Fjällbacka and Grebbestad — my personal favourite — but lots of people love it. The surströmming premiere are among the best known. on the third Thursday of August is a popular and very Swedish event. For me, the tastiest — and most Swedish — meal Norrland and Lapland Dining room in the beautiful, Dalsland and Värmland — treasures is toast with chanterelle mushrooms as an entrée, — wild country and unique flavours award-winning restaurant of the deep forests Stockholm and Mälardalen followed by boiled freshwater crayfish with a seed- Norrland’s remarkable cuisine is rich Dala Floda in Dalarna.

In these scenic provinces the roads are lined — the culinary metropolis spiced cheese, crispbread, aquavit and beer, and for in delicacies from the forests, bogs, rivers and lakes. Cloudberries — the gold with dense, deep forests, alternating with inviting Many of Stockholm’s finest restaurants dessert, fresh raspberries and whipped cream. At Here the almond potatoes acquire their exceptionally of the mountains. blue lakes. The forests are goldmines for mushroom source their ingredients from farmers and producers Långbro Värdshus we have a special aquavit sommelier rich flavour as they slowly ripen in the summer sun Vendace roe — the gold lovers. In late summer and autumn it’s time to pick my in the surrounding regions of Uppland, Söderman- who helps the guests find make the best choice from that never sets. The cloudberry is called the gold of the of the streams. favourite, the chanterelle, as well as the delicate penny land and Västmanland. Internationally renowned the extensive range of traditional and newly created mountains; the vitamin-packed buckthorn berry bun. Dalsland and Värmland host mushroom exhibi- restaurant Frantzén/Lindeberg has its own farmland. aquavits. grows best by the coast. Each season the local villagers Globally renowned Fäviken, tions and mushroom safaris at many locations. For As a culinary metropolis, Stockholm is recognised not One gem in Stockholm is Fjäderholmarna, a small hotly debate the prospects for these two golden berries. in the mountains of Jämtland, has its own garden. hunting enthusiasts, the deep forests are rich in elk, only for its fine dining, but also for all of its innovative, island just outside the city centre. It’s a fantastic envi- With a dollop of fresh cream, cloudberries are a genuine Two dishes from Fredrik ­Eriksson’s favourite meal — deer and small game. In Vänern, Sweden’s largest ambitious bistros and neighbourhood restaurants. ronment where the herring practically jump up onto delicacy. fresh mushrooms and freshly lake, you can fish for pike and zander. One of the region’s many impressive, small-scale the jetty. LO Smith, a spirits manufacturer, developed The world-renowned restaurant Fäviken is located boiled crayfish. Oysters from food producers is Jürrs mejeri, a dairy that makes the vodka here that is now the global brand, Absolut. in Åre, Scandinavia’s largest alpine centre. Headed Grebbestad, the Swedish Sörmlands Ädel, an award-winning creamy blue In Uppland, north of Stockholm, is the wonderful by chef Magnus Nilsson, Fäviken serves traditional ­seafood capital. Kitchen at Frantzén/Lindeberg, with cheese with a rich flavour. In consistency it’s softer coastal region of Roslagen. Here we bake Långbros regional cuisine in a new, highly innovative way. The two Michelin stars. than Roquefort but firmer than Gorgonzola. Värdshusknäcke, a crispbread made the old-fash- menu follows the seasons, taking advantage of every ioned way in a small family bakery. Crispbread is a ingredient the region provides. If three ptarmigan are unique Swedish tradition that is served at almost all caught that day, the trio will appear on the menu Swedish restaurants. that evening. The forests of Norrland are home to elk, reindeer Dalarna — the most Swedish of all! and black grouse. Streams abound with salmon, More than most other Swedish provinces, brown trout, arctic char, lavaret and grayling. Such Dalarna has a well-established tradition of delicacies are best enjoyed on location; they’re rarely inns, in magnificent settings, where travellers used found in big-city restaurants. The spectacularly to eat, drink, rest and change their horses. The ­orange-coloured vendace roe, with its mild, salty ­characteristic red timber houses in Tällberg, with ­flavour, comes from vendace caught in the autumn in stunning views of the famous blue Lake Siljan, are northern watercourses. It is best enjoyed au naturel well worth a trip. Midsummer festivities by Lake with sour cream and finely chopped raw onion. The ­Siljan are an enchanting custom, with fiddle music, famous Västerbotten cheese from Bjurträsk in the folk costumes, dancing around the Midsummer pole Västerbotten region, with its strong, nutty aroma, is and not least, a sumptuous smörgåsbord, or buffet. the queen of Swedish cheeses. The delicious reindeer Dalarna is often called the most Swedish of all the meat takes on exciting flavours when smoked according provinces. It produces many varieties of the Swedish to local traditions. And when served on Norrland flat- unpasteurised cheese, fäbodsost. This was originally bread it’s simply sublime. Like many other Norrland a means of preserving milk during winter, as the ­cattle delicacies, it tastes best beside a campfire in the moun- grazed far from the farms. tains or the forest. Hostel in Sweden, book online www.svif.se

 

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First prize Win a weekend in Stockholm Join Sweden’s official online community. Share and Subscribe to Sweden’s official channel Discover VisitSweden’s ­virtual pinboard ­enjoy photos, travel stories, tips and more from friends on Youtube. and get ­inspiration for your next trip Weekend trip for two to Stockholm, including airfares and accommodation for two! in Sweden and all over the world. Click to be inspired Click to view our videos: to Sweden at: in a double room at one of the Elite Hotels. and to join our community: www.youtube.com/sweden www.pinterest.com/pinsofsweden Now is your chance to win a great prize www.CommunityOfSweden.com 2nd−10th prizes − by responding to the internet survey below. (Survey takes about 5 minutes A gorgeous book on Sweden’s outdoors: “Wild Sweden” by the renowned to complete.) For more ­details on the nature photographer Staffan Widstrand. competition, see ­competition page. www.visitsweden.com/survey Cruising 26

See Sweden from the sun deck

With its beautiful, long and richly varied coastline, it’s no surprise that Sweden is becoming increasingly popular as a destination for cruise ships from all over the world. The country’s extensive coast offers a huge number of destinations well worth going ashore for. At several points, the coast is peppered with fantastic archipelagos that ensure superb scenery and ­constantly changing vistas. Most famous are of course the Stockholm and the west coast archipelagos; each has its own character, but both are unparalleled ­maritime worlds. In summer, Stockholm is a world-class cruise ship destination. Many vessels dock at the beautiful Old Town, dating back to the 13th century — one of fourteen islands positioned where Lake Mälaren meets the and the waters of the Stockholm Archipelago. Being the national capital, Stockholm is awash with sightseeing, culture, museums, restau- rants, entertainment and shopping opportunities. Cruise ship traffic breaks records year after year. ­Increasingly, cruise companies are choosing Stock- holm as a turnaround point, i.e. a starting or finishing port for the cruise, thanks to the city’s huge appeal, good hotel standard and convenient direct flights to Europe and the United States. Sweden’s second city, Gothenburg is another popular destination for cruise ships. It enjoys an impressive cultural and entertainment scene and is the obvious point of departure for trips through the magical, ­pink-tinged west coast archipelago. The country’s third city, Malmö, is another attractive stop. The other Swedish ports of call for international cruise ships are the unique medieval town of Visby on the scenic Baltic island of Gotland, historical Kalmar with a bridge link to Öland, the second Swedish Baltic island with ­stunning natural beauty, and finally , a charming town on the west coast of Skåne. Swedish ports offer good service and organisation, and a professional, safe welcome.

For more information, see Visitsweden.com/cruise Cruising in the Stockholm ­Archipelago, a unique marine landscape. Many cruise ships anchor in the centre of the ­national capital, Stockholm. Swedish Stories Swedish Stories 28 29

“It’s fantastic that my books have helped Fjällbacka Once upon that way”, she explains. “I’m a real Fjällbacka girl — I really love everything about the place. Fjällbacka and environs are extremely important to the books, a time in and even more important to the films, which really showcase the village, the countryside and the sea.” Fjällbacka is a classic fishing village of the Bohus- Sweden… län region. Its culture, including the built environ- ment, has been lovingly maintained, one example ­being the iconic red fishing sheds. Life has always A country is very much its history, stories, been centred around the sea — a tradition that is very myths and images. For many people, their much alive. first encounter with a country is through “Fjällbacka is stunningly beautiful, but in an austere different types of stories. They create way”, explains Läckberg. “You’re very exposed to the their own relationship to the country long forces of nature, and life here has been difficult. Ever y­ before they actually visit it in real life. one made a living from fishing and seafaring, and you Over the centuries, Sweden has had many never knew if the fish would come back or not. The different storytellers, whose works have mentality here is shaped by the strict Lutheranism travelled far beyond its borders. August of Schartau. You don’t put yourself forward or say ­ Strindberg, Astrid Lindgren and Ingmar that everything’s great. First you talk about your Bergman, as well as artists like Anders ­problems.” Zorn and Carl Larsson, are some of the According to Camilla Läckberg you can see Fjäll- individuals who have created the images backa as a miniature reflection of Sweden, at least as and stories that help people overseas this reflection is perceived on the international stage. interpret and understand Sweden. “When I travel around the world doing publicity for In recent years we have seen an astonishing my books, I’m struck by the fantastically glorified increase in the international demand for ­image many people have of Sweden. The Swedish Swedish stories. Contemporary Swedish model, beautiful countryside and tall blonde, beauti- literature (in particular crime stories) and ful people. I get huge numbers of questions about that. film have enjoyed huge success on the Many readers find it exciting the way the murders and global stage. In many instances the imagery other negative elements like alcoholism, physical “If you come to Fjällbacka you mustn’t miss the The fishing village of Fjällbacka and the unique archipelago just and mythology of Sweden abroad has been abuse and neo-Naziism contrast with the idyllic image ­archipelago. It’s one of the most stunning things you Camilla Läckberg’s offshore play a key role in updated as a result. of the good society.” can see, with its smooth, rounded, grey and pink Camilla Läckberg’s best-selling Against the backdrop of the worldwide Fjällbacka, Bohuslän and Of all the international guests Camilla Läckberg ­granite bedrock. Fjällbacka is the perfect starting crime stories. success of these Swedish stories, we have has hosted in Fjällbacka, not a single one has been point for excursions to other beautiful fishing villages Top: kayaking among the barren islets of Fjällbacka’s archipelago. had the pleasure to welcome growing the West Coast ­disappointed, despite high expectations. and scenic spots around here, like Hamburgsund, numbers of visitors from around the globe. “People go crazy when they get here! They’re Grebbestad, Lysekil and Tanum with its famous rock They discover Sweden through books and For Camilla Läckberg, currently Sweden’s best-selling ­enchanted by the countryside and the environment, engravings. And you just have to sit at the Guest House films, and come here to experience the author, it was natural to set her crime stories in the it’s like nothing they’ve ever experienced. And the restaurant on the island of Valön, eating freshly caught districts where their heroes and heroines town where she grew up, Fjällbacka, an austere yet food makes a huge impression. Eating freshly caught lobster. Simply unbeatable!” live and love. They want to take in the idyllic fishing village on the West coast. In Läckberg’s fish and shellfish here is really something very­s pecial.” same views, smell the same smells, and books, police officer Patrik Hedström and author Left: Restaurant Vatten check if the lavender-flavoured biscuits ­Erika Falck — his girlfriend and often identified as Camilla Läckberg is currently ­Gourmet & Café in Skärhamn, at their favourite cake shop are unusually Läckberg’s alter ego — solve barbaric murder mysteries. Sweden’s best-selling author. at the famous Nordic Water­ spicy. Readers worldwide can’t get enough. To date, four of She grew up in Fjällbacka, the colour Museum. Here are a few of the locations that have the books have been made into films, and a series of picturesque west coast fishing www.restaurangvatten.com Right: Freshly caught lobster gained global fame through the stories and ten new Swedish TV and cinema films are in produc- village that figures prominently in her crime stories and the at restaurant Norra Hamnen images of our Swedish storytellers. tion. There are also plans for international screen films adapted from them. in Lysekil. ­adaptations of her books. As has happened with the Like several of her Swedish norrahamnen5.se books of Läckberg’s Swedish crime writer colleagues, colleagues, she welcomes Other dining suggestions: In Fjällbacka you can enjoy increasing numbers of visitors are coming to Fjäll- ­visitors to experience the ­locations from her stories. ­superb seafood at Bryggan backa to experience the locations from Läckberg’s Fjällbacka. books and films in real life — on guided tours or inde- www.brygganfjallbacka.com pendently. Swedish Stories 30 Astrid Lindgren’s Småland

For over half a century, millions and millions of children worldwide have created their own mental pictures of Sweden, consciously or not, while reading Astrid Lindgren’s stories of , Emil of ­Lönneberga, Karlsson-on-the-Roof, Madicken, Ronia the Robber’s Daughter and all the other characters. Astrid Lindgren was born and grew up in the small town of Vimmerby in Småland. In the imaginary ­village of Katthult outside Vimmerby live Emil, his sister Ida, the farmhand Alfred, the maid Lina and all Above right: Ingmar Bergman the other characters in Emil of Lönneberga. The with his long-standing collabo- Stockholm Ingmar Bergman’s Fårö rator Sven Nykvist, the world- ­Småland countryside, with its stony pastures and famous film photographer. crime stories and Gotland red cabins, is an important part of the story. Above left: The building in Vimmerby is also home to the constantly expanding Stockholm’s Södermalm, Stockholm, the Swedish capital, is known as a beautiful The barren, romantic countryside and the stony Astrid Lindgren’s World, where children and adults where Stieg Larsson’s Mikael Blomkvist lived. city dominated by light and water, at least during the beaches on the little Baltic Sea island of Fårö north can come face-to-face with all of Lindgren’s storybook warmer half of the year when most overseas visitors of Gotland is an important part of the special magic characters in real life. In the summer of 2013, the 50th come. However in recent years a darker image of that made Ingmar Bergman one of the greatest, most anniversary of the first Emil book, a completely new Stockholm has gained a huge global audience, as a influential filmmakers of all time. Bergman’s first­v isit Emil Land will open here. ­result of our world-famous crime stories. The stand- to Fårö was in 1960, on the recommendation of the For many international visitors, Småland is the out example is the extraordinarily popular Millen- producer of Through a Mirror Darkly, which Bergman quintessential Sweden, with its dense green forests, nium trilogy by the deceased Stieg Larsson, with the had initially planned to set on the Orkney Islands in dozens of blue lakes and the characteristic red cabins ­heroes Mikael Blomkvist and Lisbeth Salander. . He fell in love with the landscape — so much with white trim. And many guests from far and wide ­Another author who has depicted what we now call so that he later bought a house there. He spent more come to Småland to realise their dream of experiencing Top: Typical scene from ­Småland — classic red build- “Stockholm Noir” is Jens Lapidus. and more time on Fårö, and toward the end of his life a storybook summer, by renting a cabin by a lake or ings with white trim. For many Guided tours in the footsteps of Blomkvist and he settled there permanently. He made and edited a a forest in the countryside. people they’re the essence ­Salander, mainly in the Södermalm district, attract number of films on the island, including classics like of Sweden. Much-loved author Millennium fans from around the world. They come Persona and the television series, Scenes from a Astrid Lindgren with Ingrid Nilsson as Pippi Långstrump to see the film and book locations in real life. ­Marriage. Bergman’s films from Fårö also attracted during the 1970 production Connoisseurs know that the Swedish crime story other filmmakers like Andrei Tarkovsky, who made of the movie in Småland. boom originated with the author couple Maj Sjöwall The Sacrifice there in 1986. While Bergman lived, but and Per Wahlöö. From the mid-60s to the mid-70s especially after his death, Fårö became a mecca for Above: Restaurang Linnea Ingmar Bergman described his first encounter with at Astrid Lindgrens World, they wrote ten novels, collectively called “The Story of ­directors and film lovers from all over the world. They them as follows: ­specialising in traditional Above: Rooney Mara as a Crime”. Not surprisingly, the Stockholm depicted in travel there to experience Bergman’s world and the “We stood leaning against the wind, staring with watering ­Småland cuisine, made from ­Lisbeth Salander. this series is vastly different from today’s, but fans of unparallelled magic of Fårö. Every August the Bergman eyes at those secretive idols raising their heavy foreheads local­ ingredients. against the waves and the darkening horizon. I don’t really the books love experiencing what the locations look Festival on Fårö attracts distinguished international www.alv.se Below right: The classic res- know what happened. If one wished to be solemn, it could Other dining suggestions taurant Kvarnen in Södermalm, like today. visitors. be said that I had found my landscape, my real home; in Småland: PM & Vänner. where Lisbeth Salander went Fårö and the “mother island” of Gotland are like if one wished to be funny, one could talk about love at Ranked among the top ten on Tuesdays to meet the girls a world in miniature, with its own unique natural first sight.” in the country. A leader among in the rock band Evil Fingers, Ingmar Bergman restaurants, with its playful beauty and a cultural history going back to the Middle and where Mikael Blomkvist cuisine based on the finest and his colleagues from Millen- Ages. The town of Visby, with its medieval centre and local­ ingredients. nium used to get together. the surrounding town walls are included on UNESCO’s www.pmrestauranger.se Other Millennium tips: World Heritage List. From Visby it’s less than an hour Hotell Borgholm. Well worth Mellqvist kaffebar in Söder- the trip across the bridge to by car to an array of idyllic, scenic destinations. malm, where Mikael Blomkvist the island of Öland. Karin used to spend time, and where The countryside of Gotland is home to a number of Fransson’s sublime cooking Lisbeth Salander asked to bor- lovely hotels, inns and guest houses. Gotland also has is known for its influential row money for an important much to offer in terms of food, with first-class local use of locally grown herbs. “investment” — which she www.hotellborgholm.com used to finance the coup that ­ingredients such as the famous Gotland truffle. Krakas made her three million Crowns in Katthammarsvik (www. krakas.se) and 50 kvadrat Left: A symbol of Gotland is richer. This is also where the in Visby (www.50kvadrat.se) are two innovative the “rauk”, an unusual rock author Stieg Larsson used ­restaurants, inspired by Gotland cuisines and featuring formation found along several to go in the 1990s, since his stretches of coastline. The magazine Expo had its ­office ingredients from local producers. most famous are in north­ in the same building. western Fårö. Swedish Stories 32

Wallander’s , Österlen and Skåne

Den flerfaldigt Oscar®nominerade och Emmybelönade irländska skådespelaren Kenneth The writer Henning Mankell and his often down- itself, and of the crime scenes andBranagh spelar other Kurt Wallander. Filmatiseringen nearby för BBC, av Henning Mankells loca bästsäljare - Villospår, är inspelad i det vackra sydsvenska landskapet. Rollgestalterna tolkas av mestadels brittiska skådespelare på ett spännande och nytt sätt. Denna nyinspelning gjorde succé i hearted police inspector Kurt Wallander were probably tions from the ten novels. engelsk TV under hösten 2008. the start of what is known globally as “Swedecrime”. Skåne is Sweden’s most southerly and most densely WALLANDER In his crime stories, Wallander solves one barbaric populated province, and one of the most historically

Det är höst och människorna i den annars så lugna småstaden Ystad slår sig till ro. Men för kommissarie Kurt Wallander bryts idyllen av att en crime after another, while also struggling with his important. Within an hour’s driveung kvinna from bränner sig till döds Ystad i en rapsåker. you can

Kort därefter slår en seriemördare till med en rad allt mer bestialiska SIDETRACKED mord. Varför en justitieminister, en framgångsrik konsthandlare och en own personal broodings and problems. But alongside reach a number of attractive destinations.vanlig småtjuv? Samma vapen, Long, skalperade offer, inviting är det hämnd? Det verkar finnas ett samband. Mardrömmen för Wallander och hans stab har bara börjat. Kenneth Branagh ”Gripande” the books’ literary characters, a key player is the beaches line the Skåne coast in three directions.WEEKEND Visi- ”mycket underhållande” TIME OUT WALLANDER tors love the idyllic, culturally and historically”allt är interväldigt snyggt, - pleasant small town of Ystad, with a history going och Branagh är, som alltid, Starring Kenneth Branagh Sarah Smart Sadie Shimmin imponerande” SIDETRACKED tom Beard tom hiddleSton richard mccaBe david Warner and Jeany SparK DAILY MAIL WEEKEND MAGAZINE Filmatisering för BBC av Henning Mankells bästsäljare directed By philip martin director of photography anthony dod mantle Written By richard cottan executive producerS franciS hopKinSon and andy harrieS (left BanK pictureS) ole SøndBerg and anni faurBye (yelloW Bird) back to the 13th century, as well as the surrounding esting villages and towns, magnificentKenneth Branagh (tKBc) anne menSah (BBc Scotland) reBecca eaton (WgBh BoSton) han S-Wolfgangpalaces Jurgan (ard degeto) and co producer ralf ivarSSon produced By Simon moSeley and daniel ahlqviSt

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Sidetracked Thriller region. For more than ten years Mankell fans from manor houses, ancient monumentsSpeltid: 1 tim 29 min Rek. från 15and år Inspelad: 2008 ofEngelskt course tal the Texter: Svenska, norska, danska, finska

© Yellow BIrd rIghTS AB And lefT BAnk PIcTureS (TelevISIon) lImITed 2008 marknadsförs av AB SvenSk fIlmInduSTrI, 169 86 Stockholm. distribution: AB SvenSk fIlmInduSTrI. Ansvarig utgivare: rasmus ramstad. KÖPFILM - denna dvd-video är avsedd för privat bruk och får endast försäljas till konsument. för uthyrning krävs att tillstånd inhämtas från rättighetsägaren. Programinnehållet skyddas enligt upphovsrättslagen. All annan visning och vidarespridning är förbjuden. filmen får ej heller kopieras. around the world have made their pilgrimage to Ystad west-Skåne cities of Malmö, and Helsingborg.16:9 1.78:1 www.sf.se 532354 to follow in Wallander’s footsteps and to enjoy the Every corner of the Skåne countryside offers charming beautiful, romantic countryside, with its long white hotels and inns, as well as top-notch restaurants Kenneth Branagh as Inspector Kurt Wallander in the film’s sandy beaches, undulating fields, gently rolling hills where the impressive selection of local, seasonal international adaptation. and fascinating cultural history. As well as the light, ­ingredients is prepared with great sophistication. so renowned among artists. In Ystad you can visit Skåne is an attractive destination for an enjoyable car Wallander’s regular haunts, such as Fridolf’s café and or bicycle holiday. Hotel Continental. There are guided tours of the town

The 17th-century Marsvinsholm Palace in Ystad Municipality — one of many superb palaces and manor houses in the ­cultural landscape of Skåne.

Typical undulating farmland near Ystad.

Cutting edge cuisine at new Sandskogen, one of many first- class, modern restaurants in the region. www.sandskogen.vendel­ restauranger.se Also: Daniel Berlin, innovative restaurant in Skåne Tranås, Österlen, with a creative menu that follows what the land is offering. www.danielberlin.se Fridolfs in Ystad — Wallander’s favourite café, where he has his herring sandwich and light beer.

Driving through Wallander’s quaint hometown of Ystad, dating back to the 13th century. Children Children 34 35

Junibacken 1 A world of fantasy on the island of 5 Exciting science centre in the heart of Become Djurgården in Stockholm, has Gothenburg. Experience the depths of the become one of Sweden’s most popular at- oceans, the moist heat and exotic sounds of tractions and is located within easy walking the rainforests and the infiniteness of space. distance of several other of the country’s Universeum offers a wide range of captivating a child again foremost destinations. Junibacken is a activities and events for children and the ­centre for children’s culture, with characters whole family. Sweden is renowned as a child-friendly destination, with a vast and attractions from many different Swedish www.universeum.se ­selection of children’s culture and attractive places to visit for children’s books, starting with Astrid Lind- the whole family, spread throughout the country. Here are gren’s storybook world. Kolmården Animal Park a few of the most popular ones. www.junibacken.se 6 This large animal park in the region of Östergötland offers a safari where visitors www.visitsweden.com Liseberg ride in a cable car, coming close to the ani- 2 Scandinavia’s largest and prettiest mals without disturbing them. There’s also a amusement park, located in central Gothen- safari tent for overnight stays. You can watch burg, with a great selection of rides, restau- lions, tigers, elephants, rhinoceros and 4 rants, events and entertainment. Open during many other animals roaming freely. The the warmer months and at Christmas, for most popular of Kolmården’s attractions is the country’s largest Christmas market. For the spectacular dolphin show. The hotel, Liseberg’s 90th birthday in 2013, the Vildmarkshotellet, calls itself Sweden’s most ­children’s area has been upgraded, with child-friendly. The animal park has enough ­seven new attractions. attractions for a visit of several days. www.liseberg.se www.kolmarden.com

Astrid Lindgren’s World Vildmark i Värmland 3 In this storybook world in Astrid Lind- 7 Here’s your chance to build your own gren’s birthplace, Vimmerby, you’ll meet all log raft using traditional methods, before the famous characters in their natural slowly floating down the beautiful Klarälven ­settings: Pippi Longstocking, Emil of River, through the deep, mystical forests of ­Lönneberga, Karlsson-on-the-Roof, Ronia Värmland. You can catch your own fish for the Robber’s Daughter, the Brothers Lion- dinner as you go! A relaxing and memorable heart and all the others. Good selection of adventure for the entire family. theatre, entertainment and events. Open in www.vildmark.se 1 2 summer and some weekends in autumn. For 5 6 the summer of 2013, 50 years after Astrid Orsa Grönklitt Lindgren wrote the first Emil book, the park 8 Easily accessible ski resort for the whole will get a new Emil Land. family in the beautiful region of Dalarna. As www.alv.se well as all types of skiing, it offers numerous other activities such as skating, dog­sledding, Moose Garden ice fishing, snowmobiling and wood-fired 4 A large wilderness enclosure where you outdoor hot tubs. The Bear Park has brown can see the “King of the Forest”, Sweden’s bears, the world’s largest polar bear park, national animal, the elk. In a pretty location, huge Kamchatka bears, lynx, wolverine, with views across Lake Storsjön in Jämt- wolf, Persian leopard and snow leopard. land. There’s also a viewing tour, where you A new attraction is the two Kodiak bear can look for the sea monster that is said to cubs, who have got their own Kodiak Island. live in the lake. Or see how they make paper (Kodiak bears are the world’s largest terres- from elk droppings. trial carnivore — along with the polar bear.) www.moosegarden.com 45 minutes away is the storybook world, Tomteland. www.orsagronklitt.se 3 7 8 Nature Nature 36 37 ­bigger than the people. Priceless, free luxuries such as fresh air, clean water, open spaces and breathtaking views are easy to reach and available in abundance for everyone to enjoy, even in the main cities. Nature — Sweden’s national religion Sweden’s size and long north-south orientation — equalling the distance from London to Rome — make for remarkable variations in climate and landscape. The scenery changes constantly, from rolling hills, ­undulating fields and long white beaches in the south to endless mountain expanses in the north, often ­referred to as Europe’s last wilderness. The variation of meadows, plains, lakes and especially forests is ­extraordinary. On three sides, Sweden is bordered by a 2,700 kilometre long, hugely varied and mostly uninhabited coastline. Of course, most spectacular are the celebrated ­displays in the mountain regions of Lapland. There’s the midnight sun and its opposite, the polar night — when the supernatural northern lights dance and flash across the midwinter skies. Lapland and the rest of the alpine region, which covers more than half of the country, offers an endless variety of easily acces- sible adventures, from the relaxing to the extreme. There are also the magical archipelagos near Stock- holm and off the west coast, the forest- and lake-rich cultural landscapes of Värmland and Dalarna, and the extraordinary Baltic islands of Gotland and Öland. Throughout the country there’s a huge and varied selection of offers for visitors who seek those simple pleasures where body and soul can find harmony, away from the stress, demands and high-tech of ­today’s society — a sort of authentic tranquillity that has unfortunately been lost in most parts of the densely populated world. This priceless feeling can be achieved almost effortlessly, whether you’re rafting down a river in the magical forests of Värmland, fishing for perch The Swedes’ love of nature is perhaps the strongest of our national traits. Foreign visitors Breathtaking scenery — Stuor in a calm lake at sunset, watching for elks in a hut who experience the Swedish outdoors are often “infected by the same disease”. Räitavagge, a wide valley near made of spruce branches, cycling with your family Kebnekaise mountain and the characteristic summit, Nallo. along gravel roads through the friendly summer scenery Lapland is often called Europe’s of Sörmland, or just lying on the grass outside a cabin If there’s one thing that unites Swedes across age, last wilderness. in Småland, watching the clouds drift by. An out- class and cultural boundaries, it’s a firm desire to A magical experience of nature standing feature of our Swedish cities is that you can and freedom: sea kayaking in ­return to nature. When Swedes are asked what they the Stockholm Archipelago. combine contemporary cosmopolitan attractions want most in life, the answer is remarkably often “just with the natural pleasures of the outdoors. From all of to get out into the countryside”. It doesn’t matter if the Opposite page, top: our three main centres you’re less than 30 minutes Priceless luxuries, for free. person is an elderly industrialist, a young pop star or from genuine wilderness. Being able to enjoy both of Sweden’s thousands of lakes a middle-aged breadwinner. offer wonderful swimming. these worlds in one trip is a luxury we like to call In today’s modern, secular society, this deep affec- ­typically Swedish. tion must be the closest we get to a national religion The ancient Right of Public Our Swedish countryside is vast, friendly and ­Access gives everyone the ­lavishly generous. It looks forward to welcoming you! that unites us across all boundaries. Is there an expla- right to move freely and to nation? Possibly that urbanisation took place so late in overnight anywhere in the Sweden; just a century ago most Swedes still lived countryside, as long as they in the countryside, making their living from the land. act responsibly and don’t go within sight or earshot of However there’s no doubt that the main reason for a dwelling. Here, an alpine our love of nature is the rare beauty and majesty of the tenting holiday in the wilds Swedish countryside. Sweden is a vast and sparsely of Lapland. populated country where the natural world is still Nature 38

Free, priceless luxury in our Swedish countryside

Freedom or lake’s edge, offering its clear waters for The Right of Public Access is an ancient a refreshing swim or a fishing trip or gently Swedish custom that allows everyone to reflecting the soft sunset. Our Swedish water­ roam freely in the countryside, even on ways are clean and inviting, for everyone to ­private property, as long as they behave enjoy all summer long. In winter, the waters ­responsibly and remain out of view and ear- are transformed into glistening expanses of shot of residential buildings. It gives people ice, ideal for skating, walking and fishing. a unique sense of freedom and an opportunity small delights of the countryside are exclu- to enjoy the outdoors — respectfully and on Imagination sive experiences. Indeed, most children — nature’s terms, of course. In a way, not doing anything in particular and adults — appreciate simple, sweet pleas- has become the ultimate luxury in our over- ures such as picking berries or flowers, The light loaded information society, especially for patting a cow, splashing at the water’s edge Our Nordic summer light is world famous, children, who are so accustomed to digital or just lying in a hammock, watching the and justifiably so. Its magic can hardly be entertainment and other stimuli. Many visi- clouds drift across a clear blue sky. described in words; it must be experienced. tors have experienced how a holiday in a It’s delicate and fresh, with an almost other- cabin in the Swedish countryside has taken On nature’s terms worldly morning light that makes the greenery them and their children back to a timeless We Swedes are proud and protective of glow and the flowers sing in a blaze of colour. existence beyond all the high-tech and our clean, healthy and pristine countryside. And a long, sweet twilight that slowly, slowly gadgets. The days seem never-ending and In recent years the shift toward ecological drifts into the mythical white night, that our thoughts and imaginations are nour- responsibility has been strong in the tourism never truly gets dark, but retains a secretive, ished by simple, natural luxuries. You will industry, as in all other spheres. There is an romantic shimmer. notice how you and your children will soon impressive selection of eco-friendly options. settle into a slower pace and see things Visitors who want to experience nature on The water a little differently. its own terms should look out for Nature’s Sweden is a land of seas and lakes. Wher­ever Best — a quality accreditation system for you rent a cabin you are almost certainly Big little experiences tour operators of low-key and more adven- within walking or cycling distance of a beach For many big-city children, the natural, turous experiences all over the country.

The Big Five

Our Swedish forests and alpine regions are home to vigorous populations of big game. If you’re lucky you might meet some of them in the wild. But they can also be admired in zoos and wildlife parks around the country.

Here is our Nordic version of Elk Wolf Brown bear Lynx Wolverine Africa’s Big Five: Sweden’s national animal, nicknamed “The King of Our most mythical and feared predatory animal The bear has a strong position in Swedish folk culture Scandinavia’s only wild cat, with the characteristic The wolverine has a reputation as an aggressive hunter, the Forest”, is so common that you will probably see — a fear stemming largely from popular misconcep- and has never been feared or hated in the same way fluffy ears, is our second most common predator, after but in reality it’s primarily a scavenger — a master at one in the wild. For many visitors, road signs warning tions. After being threatened with extinction in the as the wolf, although it is potentially more dangerous the bear. However the lynx lives deep in the forest, is locating animals that are already dead, tearing them of elks are exotic symbols of Sweden. Elks are found 1970s, the wolf population has recovered well. They to humans. It’s telling that Björn, which is Swedish for very shy and extremely difficult to spot. Despite this, to bits and saving the pieces for the future, in various throughout the country, and in the far north, you’ll live mainly in the forests of western Sweden, with bear, has always been one of the most popular men’s a television show recently named it the Swedes’ most locations. It lives chiefly in the barren mountain regions find the famous, extra-large Sarek elks. a population of some 230 individuals. names in Sweden. The bear is Sweden’s most common popular animal. Its main habitat is the forests of north- of northern Sweden and to some extent also in forests. predatory animal and its population is estimated at ern Sweden, but it occurs in every region of the country Timid and difficult to see. around 3,200. It lives throughout northern Sweden, apart from the islands of Gotland and Öland. as far south as Värmland and northern Uppland. Ecotourism Ecotourism 40 41

Nature’s Best — experiences 2. on nature’s terms 7. All of Sweden is a fantastic playground for visitors who 3. love nature and outdoor life. Adventure and enjoyment 4. are always easy to access, and the selection is unlimited. 5. Stockholm •6. Here we list just a few examples of experiences in 8. Sweden’s great outdoors. Gothenburg • 1. 8 Malmö •

Landskapet JO — birdwatching ported to another reality. You’re also treated tures offers nature-related experiences 1 and cultural history to a wide range of outdoor experiences, a on foot, by bicycle, kayak and sailing boat. In the unusual wetlands around the town of sauna by the lake and good food made from A tour by sailing boat through the Stock- in the very south of Sweden, local ingredients, served in the cosy timber holm Archipelago is also a memory for life, 1 2 guide Jan Olsson offers a range of excur- lodge. as is kayaking in the outer reaches of the sions and guided tours in a rubber boat, on www.swedenwildlife.se ­archipelago, amidst unrivalled natural beauty. foot or by bicycle. Bird watching and fishing www.stockholmadventures.se are the main attractions, combined with Nordic Footprints — fly fishing and Jan’s stories about the cultural history of 4 forest bird hunting in the mountains JoPe Fors & Fjäll — Whitewater the region. These exclusive hunting and fishing tours in 7 ­adventures in every form www.landskapet.se Fulufjället National Park in northern Dalarna Scandinavia’s largest winter sports resort, have quickly become popular among hunt- Åre in the province of Jämtland, offers just The Silent Way — dogsledding and the ing and fishing enthusiasts worldwide. You as much in summer. Your guide is expe­ 2 northern lights in mountain terrain can fish for brown trout, arctic char and rienced whitewater rafter and climber, For 16 years, Catrine and Kenneth Gjam- grayling, or hunt black grouse, capercaillie, ­Jonas Persson. Whether a beginner or an mestad, with their 60 Alaskan huskies, have woodcock and beaver in untouched moun- ­experienced paddler, you can choose from taken guests from all over the world on dog- tain terrain. Packages include full board an array of adventures in the foaming sledding tours in the magnificent mountain with meals made from local ingredients, and ­waters. Also offered are climbing and ­caving, world of south Lapland. The longest tour is accommodation in the wilderness camp or and in winter, ice climbing. 16 days or more. Each guest drives their own in a Sami tent in the mountains. www.jope.se dog sled. Everyone who has tried it describes www.nordicfootprints.com the experience of silence, the natural beauty Everts — lobster safari and marine 3 4 5 and the relationship with the dogs as Kajak & Uteliv — Kayaking in 8 adventures in the unique west ­extraordinary. The northern lights are a 5 the archipelago coast waters bonus. Accommodation is in comfortable Kayaking in the Roslagen archipelago north In lovingly restored wooden boats, two cabins, and the food is based on what the of Stockholm, in the borderlands between brothers from the local area take you out for wilds have to offer. the verdant inner archipelago and the mag- a lobster safari, oyster tasting, fishing and www.dogsledding-adventures.com nificent, barren outer archipelago, is pure excursions in the stunningly beautiful magic. Beginners can venture out among the ­Bohuslän Archipelago on the west coast. The Vargas Wilderness Lodge — bear islands, with the supervision and instruc- starting point is the picturesque fishing 3 watching in the silence of the forest tion of an experienced guide. You can take ­village of Grebbestad, a mecca for seafood The perfect place if you want to see wild day trips or longer tours, staying the night in lovers. bears — just hours from Stockholm, in the a tent out on an island, where the guide www.evertssjobod.se depths of the Hälsingland forests. Join cooks a tasty meal using local ingredients ­nature photographer Håkan Vargas at the and perhaps a freshly caught fish. hide in the bear forest, where elk and wolf www.kajak-uteliv.com also roam and the golden eagle circles over- Nature’s Best head. The facility where you stay is beauti- Stockholm Adventures — experience Nature’s Best is the northern fully located by the clear waters of Lake 6 nature just outside the city hemisphere’s first quality accreditation system ­Stora Öjungen. Electricity is generated by One of the Swedish capital’s most unique for eco-tourism. The brand encompasses Sweden’s foremost environmental tour operators and their 6 7 wind and sun. Stillness and silence are the qualities is its location, embedded in mag- best products. Keep an eye out for the Nature’s luxuries at this lodge, and you’re soon trans- nificent green spaces. Stockholm Adven- Best logo! www.naturensbasta.se Culture Culture 42 43

Läckö Castle 1 A magnificent castle with origins in the Swedish gems late 13th century, Läckö’s current form is from the 17th century, when Sweden was a Presenting a small sample of some of Sweden’s best-loved, great power. Superbly located on a point of classic attractions. land in Sweden’s largest lake. Summers offer a wide range of exhibitions and events, in- www.visitsweden.com cluding very popular opera performances in the main courtyard. Also renowned for its exhibition garden, featuring new surprises and installations every season. www.lackoslott.se

The Kingdom of Crystal 2 The home of Swedish glass and crystal, in the forests of Småland. Within a radius of 2 about twenty kilometres you can visit eleven 6 7 large glassworks; most are open to the public. There are guided tours, interesting events and, of course, handmade glass at discounted Dalarna ­experience tourism in Lapland, with attrac- prices. www.glasriket.se 5 Dalarna is often called the most Swedish tions like dogsledding, reindeer rides, snow- of all the provinces. Swedish crafts and mobile safaris, hunting, fishing, guided Sápmi — the Sami homeland many of our favourite customs are stronger northern light tours and much more. 3 The homeland of the Sami, the Scandi- here than anywhere else. Especially around www.icehotel.com navian indigenous people, is called Sápmi. the beautiful, magically blue Lake Siljan It’s a vast area stretching across northern you’ll find a series of picturesque villages Visby and Gotland , Sweden, Finland, and into Russia. with interesting sights and lovely hotels, 7 The medieval town of Visby, with its On this land the Sami keep their reindeer, as ­located in traditional red log cabins. The Hanseatic history and town walls, is a unique they have done for centuries — although Midsummer celebration in Dalarna, which historical environment that is included on these days using modern equipment. In runs from June 20 to the beginning of July, UNESCO’s World Heritage List. In summer Sweden the main centre for Sami culture is a huge event, where people dress up in Visby, on the lovely island of Gotland, is and crafts is Jokkmokk, where the Sami ­colourful traditional folk costumes and a popular destination for party-hungry market has been held in February for over dance around the elaborately decorated ­holidaymakers. At other times of year it’s a 400 years. Jokkmokk is also the location of Midsummer pole, while the fiddles and peaceful, restful idyll, with a sophisticated 1 3 the Sami University College and Ájtte, the ­accordions play. The residences of the iconic selection of culture, restaurants and hotels. Sami museum. Part of Sápmi is Laponia: Swedish artists, Anders Zorn and Carl Within an hour of Visby you can be any- five national parks and nature reserves ­Larsson, located in Mora and Sundborn where on this spectacular island. To the ­combined and protected as UNESCO World ­respectively, are today fascinating museums north is the island of Fårö, of special interest Heritage Sites. and well worth a visit. to Ingmar Bergman fans: many scenes from www.samer.se www.dalarna.se his films were shot here, and he lived here as well. And in summer there’s a festival in his Österlen The ICE HOTEL in Jukkasjärvi honour. 4 Situated along the east coast of Skåne, 6 Who would have known back when www.gotland.info Österlen is celebrated for its gently undu- it was first built in 1992, that a hotel built of lating hills, lush deciduous forests and ex- arctic ice in northern Lapland would be- quisite light. Everywhere you’ll find charm- come an icon that attracts visitors from ing restau­rants, inns and cafés, palaces and around the world? Some come in chartered manor houses, markets, sights, idyllic loca- planes, and many are bridal couples. The tions and lovely white beaches. Stenshuvud ICE HOTEL reappears every winter, each National Park is a gem. It’s no coincidence time in a new, more spectacular form, com- that so many artists and authors have made plete with wedding chapel, bars, sculpture Österlen their home, and many of the artists’ park and more. The ICE HOTEL is located 4 5 studios are open to the public in summer. in the village of Jukkasjärvi, a centre for www.skane.com Travel facts, A — Z Travel facts, A — Z 44 45

Note: All fares and rates quoted are approximate as of October Average day temperatures (Celsius/Fahrenheit): Drinking water Midnight Sun Right of Public Access Travel for the disabled 2012 (exchange rate £1=10.64 SEK ) and may change without Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun ­notice. While every precaution has been taken to ensure the —1.5/29 0.5/31 3/37 9/48 16/60 21/69 The tap water in Sweden is perfectly safe to drink. The Midnight Sun is visible 24 hours a day as follows: The Swedish countryside is open to everyone. You are allowed Sweden is a welcoming destination for disabled people. Many ­accuracy of the information in this publication, VisitSweden Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Abisko...... June 17 — July 19 to walk, jog, cycle, ride or ski through the forests and country– hotels provide specially adapted rooms and public transportation ­accepts no responsibility for any errors, omissions or subsequent 22/72 21/70 15/59 11/52 5/41 1/34 Duty-free allowances Björkliden...... June 17 — July 19 side and across other people’s land, provided you don’t cause is generally available for disabled travellers. changes. Gällivare...... June 4 — July 12 any damage to crops, tree plantations or other sensitive land. For more information, VisitSweden’s travel guide on the web: Credit cards For details, contact diplomatic representatives or visit Jokkmokk...... June 8 — July 3 Don’t disturb and don’t destroy — that’s the main rule when www.visitsweden.com/sweden/Sweden-Facts/How-you-do- Alcohol restrictions Tullverket at www.tullverket.se Kiruna...... May 31 — July 11 it comes to understanding the Swedish Right of Public Access things-in-Sweden/Disabled-travellers Major credit cards (some restrictions apply to American Express) (“Allemansrätten”). Visitors to the countryside are requested Information hotels adapted for travellers with disabilities: to observe a few common-sense guidelines. www.equality.se Wine, spirits and strong beer are sold only from state-licensed are widely accepted throughout Sweden. You can access cash Electrical current Northern Lights “Systembolaget” stores to customers aged 20 or older. System­ with your Visa, MasterCard, Maestro or Cirrus card at any bolaget stores are generally open Mon — Fri 10am — 6pm, “Bankomat” or “Uttagsautomat” ATM. The normal electrical current in Sweden is 220 volts AC. The Northern Lights, or Aurora Borealis, are the fluttering, For more information, visit Travellers’ cheques Saturdays, 10am — 3pm. Alcohol may be consumed at bars You need an adapter for the standard two-pin round continental bright lights that can be observed in the sky over the northern- www.naturvardsverket.se and restaurants from the age of 18, and light beer is sold Currency plugs used in Sweden if you are taking hairdryers or other appli- most parts of the world. The best viewing areas in Sweden are Travellers’ cheques are generally accepted as payment throughout at supermarkets to customers aged 18 or older. ances from the UK. above the Arctic Circle between September and March. Since Shopping Sweden. Change will be given in Swedish kronor. Please note The monetary unit in Sweden is the krona (plural “kronor”) the phenomenon is caused by energy from the sun carried that a nominal fee is charged when using the cheques as toward Earth on solar winds, there is no guarantee that Sweden has set the pace for modern design the world over. ­payment. Animals and Pets and equals 100 öre. Bank notes are printed in values of 20, 50, Emergency numbers 100, 500 and 1 000 kronor; coins 1, 5 and 10 kronor. There is no it will appear. High- quality cutlery, china, sports equipment, textiles, handi- crafts, furs, crystal, jewellery, silver, fine glassware, pottery, Pets may be brought to Sweden from the UK and Ireland, limit on the amount of Swedish and foreign currency that may For any emergency, dial 112. Emergency calls from pay phones furniture, quality cars and mobile phones. but visitors are urged to plan well in advance since several be taken into Sweden. The approximate exchange rate as per are free of charge. Passports and Visas ­permissions must be obtained. 28 September 2012 was £1= 10.64 SEK Passport: A valid EU passport entitles you to a three-month Accommodation Food and Restaurants Bargain hunting Swedish Board of Agriculture Daylight hours stay in Sweden. Tel: +46-36-15 50 00 Visas: Not usually required but non-EU citizens are advised Look for signs indicating sales. “REA” indicates a sale; “Extrapris”, For accommodation in Sweden please visit Sweden has attained an international reputation for culinary www.stayinsweden.com or book online on E-mail: [email protected] From early May until late August, Sweden’s sun brightens the to check with the used along with red price labels, indicates discounts of at least ­excellence in recent years and standards are high at all levels. www.visitsweden.com/sweden/Accommodation/Book-online www.sjv.se nights and lengthens the sightseeing days. The following table 10 percent; and “Fynd” indicates special offers. Emphasis is placed on high-quality natural ingredients — notably shows approximate times for sunrise and sunset in Stockholm Embassy of Sweden fresh, pickled and smoked seafood (particularly herring, crayfish, Stockholm Visitors Board, Booking office and Kiruna: Consular Section Business hours salmon and eel) and game meats such as elk and reindeer. The Best buys Tel: +46 8 508 285 08 Stockholm Kiruna 11 Montagu Place famous Swedish smörgåsbord is rather less common these days, www.visitstockholm.com Banking hours Period Sunrise Sunset Sunrise Sunset London W1H 2AL High-quality glass and crystal are widely available throughout but most hotels offer a smörgåsbord-style breakfast and if you Monday — Friday, 10am — 3pm January 8:47am 2:55pm Darkness 24 hours (tel: 020 7917 6418) Sweden. For bargains on low-cost “seconds” visit the major glass­ are in Sweden before Christmas you can sample the traditional Stockholm Hotelltjänst/Caretaker Thursday, 10am — 4/5.30pm February 8:01am 4:01pm 8:59am 2:45pm works shops, such as Orrefors, Kosta Boda, etc., in Småland. “julbord” (Christmas buffet). Today’s multicultural society has Tel: +46 8 10 44 37 or +46-8-10 44 57 In some cities banks may stay open until 6pm. All banks are March 6:48am 5:12pm 7:02am 4:41pm For ceramics, Nya Höganäs Keramik, at Höganäs in southern also resulted in a wide variety of ethnic restaurants and an Pharmacies E-mail: [email protected] ­closed on weekends and on public holidays. Banks at airports, April 6:17am 7:26pm 5:52am 7:33am Sweden, offers bargains at up to 40 percent below normal retail ­exciting “crossover” style in which traditional Swedish dishes www.hotelltjanst.com ports and main railway stations are generally open longer. May 4:52am 8:37pm 3:43am 9:29pm Prescriptions are dispensed at pharmacies (“Apotek”), which prices. Everywhere in Sweden, even in small villages, you will are reinvented with new foreign influences. You will also find June 3:47am 9:44pm Sun does not set are generally open during normal shopping hours. In major cities, find “hemslöjd” shops where you can buy traditional handicrafts all the usual fast-food outlets and pizzerias, and you’re never Gothenburg Tourist Office, Booking Service Shopping hours July 3:40am 10:02pm — 24-hour service is available. If you are already on medication, like knitwear, needlework and woodcarvings. Many traditional far from a hot-dog stand selling the popular “varmkorv” (from Tel: +46 31 368 42 00 Monday — Friday, 9.30am — 6pm August 4:35am 9:13pm 3:02am 10:29pm make sure you have an adequate supply before leaving for markets and country fairs are held in Sweden throughout the just £1). A three-course meal with wine costs £25 — £45 in a E-mail: [email protected] Saturday, 9.30am — 2/4pm September 5:46am 7:50pm 5:08am 8:10pm Sweden. year. Some are big events attracting thousands of visitors. medium-priced restaurant. A “dagens rätt” (dish of the day) www.goteborg.com/en In larger towns, department stores remain open until 7pm or ­later. October 5:54am 5:21pm 5:53am 5:04pm Enquire at local tourist offices about markets in the area is available in most restaurants at lunchtime, served from Some are also open on Sundays between approx. 12 noon and November 7:08am 3:54pm 7:50am 2:55pm you are visiting. about 11am to 2pm. It costs £6 — £9 for a main course (often Postal service Malmö Tourist Office, Booking office 4pm. Shops generally close early the day before a public holiday. December 8:19am 2:54pm 10:14am 12:41pm with a choice), bread and butter, salad, soft drink and coffee. Tel: +46 40 34 12 00 There are plenty of cafés and cafeterias for lighter snacks. Letters and postcards of up to 20 grams cost SEK 5.50 within Smoking restrictions E-mail: [email protected] City cards Daylight savings time Sweden and SEK 12 internationally. Stamps are available for sale www.malmotown.com/en Foreign exchange at kiosks and supermarkets marked with a blue and yellow post Smoking is not permitted in any public indoor area or onboard The Stockholm Card (“Stockholmskortet”) offers unlimited Daylight savings time (clocks set 1 hour forward) is in effect and at most newsstands. domestic aircraft or other public transport. Smoking is not Apartments and bed & breakfast ­public transport in Stockholm and the surrounding area, free from the last weekend in March to the last weekend in October, FOREX exchange offices are usually centrally located in the ­permitted in stores, shops, restaurants, bars or other public admission to 80 museums and attractions, free sightseeing changing during the night between Saturday and Sunday. buildings. Some hotels and airports still offer special rooms ­larger cities. Branches may also be found at major airports, Public holidays in 2013 Bed & breakfast holidays are popular in Sweden. In the country- by boat and several other benefits. for smokers. ­major ferry terminals and railway stations. side “Rum” signs indicate that accommodation is available in Rates: SEK 450 (approx. £42) for 24 hours. www.forex.se New Year’s Day...... Jan 1 a private room. Rooms can be booked through local tourist Further information: www.visitstockholm.com Diplomatic representatives Epiphany Day...... Jan 6 Time difference ­offices. Private rooms are available from approx. £24 per ­person

X-Change Exchange Shops are centrally located at various Good Friday...... Mar 29 and up (normally not including breakfast). The SL Card gives unlimited public transport throughout IN UNITED KINGDOM cities in Sweden and may also be found at major airports. Easter Sunday...... Mar 31 Sweden observes Central European Time, which is 1 hour ahead the Greater Stockholm area. Embassy of Sweden www.x-change.se Easter Monday...... April 1 of Greenwich Mean Time, Clocks are put forward 1 hour for Day­ For more information, visit Rates: SEK 115 (approx. £11) for 24 hours; SEK 230 (approx. £22) 11 Montagu Place May Day ...... May 1 light Saving Time during the summer months (late March to late www.daysinsweden.com for 72 hours (£7/£13 for children & adolescents under 20, London, W1H 2AL Language Ascension Day...... May 9 October). ­students and senior citizens). Tel: +44 20 7917 6400 Sweden’s National Day ...... Jun 6 www.sl.se Cabins and holiday homes Fax: 020 7724 4174 Travellers can leave their phrase books at home when they Midsummer’s Day...... Jun 22 Tipping E-mail: [email protected] All Saints’ Day...... Nov 2 go to Sweden. Most Swedes speak English. Cabins and holiday homes are very popular in Sweden, often in The Gothenburg City Card (Göteborg City Card) gives you free www.swedenabroad.com/london Christmas Eve...... Dec 24 A service charge is automatically included in most hotel bills. idyllic locations by a lake or near the sea. Cottages and cabins admission to attractions and museums, several sightseeing tours Christmas Day...... Dec 25 Tipping for special services provided by hotel staff is fine, but are available for rent in most areas. A typical price for a week’s by bus or boat, parking and unlimited travel on public transport. IN IRELAND Medical care Boxing Day...... Dec 26 is not expected and is simply a matter of personal taste. At res- rental starts at £215. It also entitles you to some great shopping discounts in selected Consulate General of Sweden New Year’s Eve...... Dec 31 The general practioner system does not apply in Sweden. taurants, a service charge is included in the bill, but a small Contact the local tourist information offices for more info. stores. The card my be purchased at Gothenburg tourist offices Reddy Charlton McKnight, Solicitors Instead, you visit the nearest hospital clinic (“Akutmottagning” gratuity is expected for evening meals. Taxi drivers should be www.stuga.nu or online at www.goteborg.com. 12 Fitzwilliam Place Most establishments in Sweden are closed on the National Day, or “Vårdcentral”), taking your passport and European Health given a few extra kronor. Porters and cloakroom attendants www.eurocottage.com/sweden Rates: SEK 285 (approx £27) for 24 hours. Midsummer’s Day, Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and New Year’s Dublin 2 Insurance Card (EHIC) with you or you will be charged the full ­often charge fixed fees. Doormen at hotels and restaurants Day. This includes shops, banks, museums and restaurants. Tel: +353 (0)1 265 08 88 cost of the treatment. With an EHIC, you will still have to pay are tipped modestly. The Malmö City Card entitles you to free entrance to Malmö For the rest of the year Sunday hours apply to public holidays. Fax: +353 (0)1 678 9192 part of the cost, which is not refundable. You will also have Camping Art Museum and Malmö Museums, free parking, a discount on E-mail: [email protected] A few restaurants are closed on Sundays and public holidays. to pay the full cost of dental treatment up to a fixed limit, Sweden has some of the finest campsites in Europe, usually sightseeing by bus, as well as a shopping card with discounts in www.swedenabroad.com Museums have their busiest days on public holidays — with Tourist offices and most of the cost above this limit. Any reductions will ­located in picturesque surroundings. Camping chalets and many shops and restaurants.The card is available at the Malmö the above exceptions. be made before you get your bill. Sweden has approximately 300 authorised tourist information ­cottages, caravans and motor homes can also be rented. Tourist Office and various shops around the city. IN SWEDEN offices, all offering excellent service by multi-lingual staff. Camping Card Scandinavia provides discounts, offers and other Rates: SEK 100 (approx. £9) for 24 hours. British Embassy Information on healthcare is available from Public phones Tourist offices with the green international “i” sign will be benefits, and is accepted in many countries in Europe. As a www.malmotown.com Skarpög. 6—8 Stockholm Care ­delighted to give you advice on what’s happening in the area, cardholder you will receive accident insurance without paying Box 27819, SE-115 93 STOCKHOLM When calling Sweden from the UK, please dial 0046 followed Tel: +46 8 672 24 00 sights, excursions, etc as well as booking accommodation. any excess during your stay, faster check-in/check-out and Tel: +46 8 671 30 00 by the area code (omitting the initial zero) and the number Climate/Temperature E-mail: [email protected] Tourist offices with the blue and yellow “i” sign provide all up to 14 days’ credit during your stay. Camping Card Fax: +46 8 662 9989 ­required. When calling abroad from Sweden, dial 00 plus the www.stockholmcare.se the services listed above and help you with information and Scandinavia can be applied for before you leave for Sweden Sweden enjoys a generally temperate climate, thanks to the (opening hours 9 — 17 weekdays) country code, followed by the area code and phone number. bookings for the whole of Sweden. at www.camping.se or purchased at any of the campsites in Gulf Stream. Above the Arctic Circle, winter can be crisp and E-mail: [email protected] Scandinavia. The rate is SEK 140 (approx. £13) for a full year. invigorating. In the south, winter is generally mild with an www.ukinsweden.fco.gov.uk Most pay phones in Sweden require either a prepaid phone card For general tourism information about Sweden in English when ­average temperature above 0C/32F degrees, but temperatures or a credit card, however some also accept coins. Phone cards you are in Sweden please call +46 633 91 03 34. can vary markedly in different parts of the country. Sweden’s British Consulate-General In Gothenburg are available in newsagents, kiosks, shops and supermarkets. northerly position has a definite summer advantage in that Sextantgatan 14 ­temperatures are rarely extreme and humidity levels are SE-426 76 VÄSTRA FRÖLUNDA not high. Tel: +46 31 696 453 Travel facts, A — Z Tour Operators / Regional and local tourists offices 46 47

Important safety note: Only propane gas (e.g. Primus) is Domestic flights A number of different taxi companies operate in Gothenburg, ­normally obtainable in Sweden. Equipment designed to burn and their rates can vary. Most companies have fixed rates ­butane must not be filled with propane; this is not only illegal Domestic transport is quite sophisticated in Sweden. Several ­between Landvetter Airport and the centre of Gothenburg Tour Operators but also highly dangerous. Propane and cooking, heating or major cities can be reached in less than an hour by air and for around SEK 325 (approx. £31). Make sure to confirm the ­lighting equipment is inexpensive and widely available in Sweden there are several departures daily. rate before you leave the airport. Flygtaxi (Airport taxi) at more than 2,000 Primus dealers. Some gas stations also stock offers a car service that can be pre-booked online: Listing 2013 Castles and manor houses City breaks/short breaks Cruise Cultural tours Cycling Eco-tourism Ferries Fly-drive trips waterway Inland Motoring holidays Lights Northern tours Rail Self-catering holidays Skiing/winter Soft Adventures Lapland Swedish Specialist Swedish tours made Tailor Walking packages Wedding butane. For more information, visit www.flysas.som www.flygtaxi.se/en Best Served Scandinavia/Wexas For more information, visit www.lfv.se or by calling 0207 838 5956 ••• ••••••••••• Swedish Camping Site Owners Association (SCR) Tel: +46 8 120 92 000 [email protected], www.wexas.com, www.best-served.co.uk Tel: +46 31 355 60 00 Airport transfers DFDS Seaways E-mail: [email protected] Gothenburg City Airport 0871 522 9978 www.scr.se Buses operate between Gothenburg City Airport and Gothenburg • LFV has information about most airport transfers on their website; [email protected], www.dfds.com www.lfv.se Central Station (Nils Ericson Terminal) and the timetable is Hotels ­adjusted to flight arrivals and departures. Travel time is approx- Discover the World Stockholm (Arlanda) Airport imately 30 minutes and the fare for adults is SEK 79 (approx. £7). 0173 721 8800 • ••••••••• Sweden has a wide choice of high-standard hotels in all price The Arlanda Express is the airport express train between [email protected], www.discover-the-world.co.uk ­categories. Most Swedish hotels include a lavish buffet breakfast Stockholm City and Arlanda Airport. The journey takes 20 minutes For more information, visit The Luxury Cruise Company and offer specials for families. Reduced prices are available and trains depart 4 — 6 times an hour. One-way fare is SEK 260 www.flygbussarna.se 0800 6123 354 at weekends throughout the year and also on weekdays from (approx. £25). Concessions are available. • [email protected], www.theluxurycruisecompany.com mid-June to mid-August. Copenhagen Kastrup Airport, Denmark Direct trains operate every 20 minutes between Copenhagen For more information, visit Mighty Fine Company Airport and Malmö Central Station and to other destinations “Stay in Sweden 2013” is a comprehensive catalogue listing www.arlandaexpress.com 0845 072 0090 in Sweden via the Öresund Bridge. The trip takes 20 minutes. ••• ••••••••• ­approx. 600 hotels throughout the country. Order the brochure [email protected], www.mightyfinecompany.com from VisitSweden, Tel: 020-7108 6168 or find it online at The airport is also served by long distance and local trains. Oneway fare for adults is SEK 107 (approx £10), for children www.stayinsweden.com SEK 55 (approx £5) and a family ticket is SEK 217 (approx £21). Nature Travels For more information, visit 0192 950 3080 •• ••••••• Youth and family hostels www.arlanda.com Rail travel [email protected], www.naturetravels.co.uk

Nordic Experience Buses operate between Arlanda Airport and the City Terminal The Swedish Rail Network Sweden’s youth and family hostels, known as “vandrarhem”, 0120 670 8888 near Stockholm Central Station about every 10 minutes throughout Sweden has a highly efficient rail network spanning the entire • ••••••• ­offer facilities for an inexpensive vacation and are located all [email protected], www.nordicexperience.co.uk over the country, including the mountain regions. All ages are the day. Night traffic is adjusted to flight arrivals and departures. country. Visitors travel smoothly and comfortably across the welcome. More than 300 are operated by The journey takes 45 minutes and costs SEK 99 (approx. £9). countryside on some of Europe’s most modern trains, in first or Simply Sweden second class carriages. On longer trips, couchettes and sleeping 0845 890 0300 •• ••••••••••• The Swedish Touring Association. For more information, visit car facilities are provided and long distance trains generally [email protected], www.simplysweden.co.uk Tel: +46 8 463 21 00 www.flygbussarna.se have a buffet car. E-mail: [email protected] The Swedish high-speed train X 2000, travels at up to 200 km/ Specialised Tours www.stfturist.se Regional buses and trains operate between Uppsala Central hour (125 mph) on all major routes and offers the highest stan- 0134 271 2785 • • •• Station and Arlanda for most of the day. Travel time is 40 minutes dards of comfort, with radio and music outlets by all seats. In [email protected], www.specialisedtours.com Membership in an organisation affiliated with the International by bus and costs SEK 100 (approx. £9). Train costs SEK 130 full-fare business class you will be served a meal at your seat, Youth Hostel Federation is not required, but provides discounted ­(approx. £12). and in second class you have access to a Bistro car, where hot 0844 770 7070 rates. or cold meals are available. • www.stenaline.co.uk Average rate at STF hostels: approx. £20 per night (£4 additional For more information, visit for non-IYHF members). Discounts are available for children if www.ul.se For more information, visit Sunvil Holidays their parents hold the Hostelling International Card or a national www.sj.se 0208 758 4722 •••••••••••••• HI membership. A number of taxi companies operate in Stockholm, and their [email protected], www.sunvil.co.uk/sweden ­rates can vary. Most companies have fixed rates on transfers to The Swedish rail network is operated by a few major train SVIF is a smaller consortium of 185 independent hostels in and from Stockholm Arlanda Airport ranging from SEK 395 — 500 ­operators; SJ, Veolia, Tågkompaniet, BK Tåg, LINX, Connex and Taber Holidays Sweden, which has no membership requirements. (£37 — 47). Make sure to confirm the rate before you leave the Inlandsbanan. As an extension to the railway network, buses 0127 487 5199 ••• ••••••••• airport. The taxis from the larger companies always display the operate on a frequent basis as a link to smaller cities and [email protected], www.taberhols.co.uk Tel: +46 3 82 88 00 name of the driver and the car identification in the front window. ­villages, which can be booked in connection with your railway Weekend à la Carte E-mail: [email protected] Flygtaxi (Airport taxi) offers a car service that can be pre-booked ticket. 0172 274 4695 www.svif.se online: •• • ••• [email protected], www.weekendalacarte.co.uk For more information, visit www.flygtaxi.se/en www.resplus.se or by calling Tel: +46 8 120 92 000 The “Inlandsbanan” (Inland Railway) is a 807-mile/1300-km Transport ­route from Kristinehamn in central Sweden to Gällivare in the Regional and local tourists offices Stockholm Skavsta Airport north, passing through the Swedish inland. Inlandsbanan is How to get to Sweden Buses operate between Stockholm Skavsta Airport and the City a privately owned company offering tours in the summer. Stockholm and North Sweden Hälsingland Tourism Ek Förening Region Halland Öland Tourist Center Terminal near Stockholm Central Station. Travel time is approx. Bicycles can be transported on the train. surrounding area Tel: +46 278 62 40 08 Tel: +46 35 13 48 00 Tel: +46 485 89 000 For air routes, see table on page 48, for ferry routes, page 49. 80 minutes and the timetable dovetails with flight arrivals/ Swedish Lapland [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] departures. Price is SEK 149 (approx. £14) at the airport and For more information, visit Stockholm Tourist Center Tel: +46 920 25 79 90 www.halsingland.com www.halland.se www.olandsturist.se SEK 129 (approx. £12) when booking online. www.inlandsbanan.se and [email protected] Coach Routes Tel: +46 8 508 285 08 www.grandnordic.se [email protected] www.swedishlapland.com Gästrikland Tourism East Sweden Visit Blekinge For more information, visit Or call + 46 (0)63 194 400 Tel: +46 26 17 71 17 Tel: +46 455 30 50 00 Eurolines is the leading operator of scheduled coaches services www.visitstockholm.com www.flygbussarna.se E-mail. [email protected] Kiruna Lapland Tourist Office [email protected] [email protected] to Europe, including Stockholm, Gothenburg and Malmö. East Sweden Tourist Board Tel: +46 980 188 80 www.gastrikland.com www.visitblekinge.se Destination Uppsala Tel: +46 13 26 27 28 Gothenburg Landvetter Airport The “Öresundrunt card” allows travel on boats and trains on [email protected] For information and reservations, visit Tel: +46 18 727 48 00 [email protected] Buses operate between Landvetter Airport and Gothenburg both sides of Öresund, in Sweden and Denmark. The card also www.kirunalapland.se Värmland Tourism Board www.eurolines-travel.com [email protected] www.ostergotland.info South Sweden Central Station ( Terminal) every 15 minutes at peak includes discounts on accommodation and many of the region’s www.uppland.nu Visit Värmland times and twice hourly throughout the rest of the day. Travel best attractions. Västerbottens Tourism Tel: +46 54 701 10 00 South-East Sweden Business Region Skåne AB Rail Services time is approx. 30 min. and the fares are SEK 99 (approx. £9) Sörmlands Tourism Västra Norrlandsgatan 13 [email protected] Tel: +46 40 675 30 01 for adults, SEK 65 (approx. £6) for children aged 8 — 17. For more information, visit Tel: +46 90 16 57 00 www.varmland.se [email protected] The fastest rail route from the UK to Sweden is via the Eurostar Tel: +46 155 22 27 70 Gotlands Tourist Association www.skanetrafiken.se www.vasterbotten.net www.skane.com service through the Channel tunnel from London (St. Pancras) or [email protected] Tel: +46 498 20 17 00 For more information, visit Tel: +46 771 77 77 77 Ashford International (Kent) to Brussels, with onward trains to www.stua.se West Sweden [email protected] www.flygbussarna.se Jämtland/Härjedalens Tourist Malmö Tourism Copenhagen for connecting services to Sweden. Through trains www.gotland.info European Rail Passes Association West Sweden Tourist Board Tel: +46 40 34 12 00 operate from Copenhagen to destinations in Sweden via the Västmanlands Kommuner The Eurail Group is a cooperation of 30 European Railway com- Tel: +46 63 14 40 22 Tel: +46 31 81 83 00 [email protected] bridge and tunnel across the Östersund strait. & Landsting Eastern Småland & Öland panies and shipping lines, which offers a number of different rail www.jamtland.se [email protected] www.malmotown.com (Association of Local (Regionförbundet Kalmar län) passes to non-European residents. Eurail Passes entitle you to [email protected] www.west-sweden.com For more information, visit Authorities and County Council) Tel: +46 480 41 77 00 hop on and off trains in Europe, just choose the number of www.eurostar.com Tel: +46 21 39 79 40 www.smaland-oland.se countries and travel days you prefer. [email protected] Central Sweden Göteborg & Co www.vkl.se Tel: +46 31 368 40 00 Smålands Tourism For more information, visit: Tourist Information Dalarna [email protected] Tel: +46 36 35 12 70 www.eurail.com Tel: +46 23 640 04 www.goteborg.com [email protected] [email protected] www.visit-smaland.com www.visitdalarna.se

Flights Ferry routes 48 49

Scheduled air routes to Sweden from the UK and Ireland 2013 Ferry routes

The UK and Ireland to Sweden The UK and Ireland to Copenhagen (for access to southern Sweden) FROM TO LINE TRAVEL TIME FREQUENCY FREQUENCY DEPARTURE ARRIVAL DEPARTURE ARRIVAL HIGH SEASON LOW SEASON Scandinavian Airlines Tel: 0871 226 7760 www.flysas.co.uk Scandinavian Airlines Tel 0871 226 7760 www.flysas.co.uk to Sweden Gothenburg Stena Line 14 hours 1 × daily 1 × daily London (Heathrow) Stockholm (Arlanda) London (Heathrow) Copenhagen Rostock TT-Line 5−6 hours 3 × daily 3 × daily London (City) Stockholm (Arlanda) Birmingham Copenhagen Rostock Trelleborg Stena Line 6 hours up to 4 × daily up to 4 × daily London (Heathrow) Gothenburg (Landvetter) Manchester Copenhagen Sassnitz Trelleborg Stena Line 4 hours up to 4 × daily up to 4 × daily Edinburgh Stockholm (Arlanda) Travemünde Trelleborg TT-Line 7−9 hours 3 − 4 × d a i l y 3 − 4 × d a i l y Birmingham Stockholm (Arlanda) Travemünde Malmö Finnlines/Nordö-Link 9 hours 2 − 3 × d a i l y 2 − 3 × d a i l y Manchester Stockholm (Arlanda) British Airways Tel 0844 493 0787 www.ba.com Germany to Sweden via Denmark London (Heathrow) Copenhagen Puutgarden − Rødby and Helsingør Helsingborg 45 min/20 min every 30 min/ every 30 min/ British Airways Tel: 0844 493 0787, www.ba.com every 20 min every 20 min Rostock − Gedser and Helsingør Helsingborg Scandlines 1 h 45 min / 20 min every 2 hours/ every 2 hours/ London (Heathrow) Stockholm (Arlanda) Easy Jet Tel 0843 104 5000 www.easyjet.com every 20 min every 20 min London (Heathrow) Gothenburg (Landvetter) (for central Sweden) Manchester Gothenburg (Landvetter) London (Gatwick) Copenhagen Germany to Norway London (Stansted) Copenhagen Kiel Oslo Color Line 18 hours 1 × daily 1 × daily Manchester Copenhagen Norwegian Tel 0208 099 7254 www.norwegian.com Denmark to Sweden Fredrikshavn Gothenburg Stena Line 3.5 hours/2 hours up to 6 × daily up to 6 × daily London (Gatwick) Stockholm (Arlanda) BMI Tel 0844 417 2600 www.bmiregional.com on catamaran London (Gatwick) Gothenburg (Landvetter) Rønne () Ystad Faergen 1 hour 20 min up to 8 × daily 3 - 4 × d a i l y Edinburgh Stockholm (Arlanda) Edinburgh Copenhagen Grenå Varberg Stena Line 4.5−5.5 hours 2 × daily 2 × daily Manchester Stockholm (Arlanda) Glasgow Copenhagen Allinge (Bornholm) (13.06.-01.09.2013) Bornholm Express 1 hour 2 − 3 × d a i l y Helsingør Helsingborg Scandlines 20 min every 15-20 min every 15−20 min Helsingør Helsingborg Sundbusserne 20 min 1 × hourly 1 × hourly Norwegian Tel 0208 099 7254 www.norwegian.com Ryanair Tel 0871 246 00 00 www.ryanair.com Norway to Sweden London (Stansted) Stockholm (Skavsta) London (Gatwick) Copenhagen Sandefjord Strömstad Color Line 2.5 hours up to 4−5 × daily 2 − 5 × d a i l y Edinburgh Copenhagen London (Gatwick) Stockholm (Skavsta) Denmark to Norway (a selection of routes) London (Stansted) Stockholm (Västerås) Oslo Copenhagen DFDS Seaways 17 hours 1 × daily 1 × daily London (Stansted) Gothenburg (City) Fredrikshavn Oslo Stena Line 8.5/13 hours (day/night) 1 × daily 1 × daily London (Stansted) Malmö Hirtshals Kristiansand Color Line 3 hours 15 min 2 × daily 1 × daily Edinburgh Stockholm (Skavsta) Hirtshals Larvik Color Line 3 hours 45 min 2 × daily 1 × daily Edinburgh Gothenburg (City) Finland to Sweden Eckerö Grisslehamn Eckerö Linjen 2 hours 3 × daily 2 − 3 × d a i l y Helsinki − Mariehamn Stockholm Silja 16.5−17 hours 1 × daily 1 × daily Helsinki − Mariehamn Stockholm 16 hours 1 × daily 1 × daily Mariehamn Kapellskär Viking Line 2−2.5 hours 2 − 3 × d a i l y 2 − 3 × d a i l y Mariehamn Stockholm Viking Line 5.5 hours 4 × d a i l y 4 × d a i l y Mariehamn Stockholm Ånedinlinjen 7 hours 15 min 1 × daily 1 × daily Naantali (Nådendalen) Kapellskär Finnlines 8 hours 3 × daily 3 × daily Turku (Åbo) − Mariehamn Stockholm Viking Line 11 hours 2 × daily 2 × daily Turku (Åbo) − Mariehamn Stockholm Tallink Silja 11 hours 2 × daily 2 × daily Vaasa (Vasa) Umeå RGline 4.5 hours up to 2 × daily up to 1 × daily Poland to Sweden PHOTO CREDITS: (PAGE 26−27) © Per-Erik Adamsson/ Hamnar, (PAGE 42−43) © Simon Irvine/Läckö Slott, © Orrefors, Danzig Nynäshamn 19 hours 7 × weekly 6 × weekly © Per-Erik Adamsson/Stockholms Hamnar, © Staffan © Jennie Pettersson/Folio, © Thomas Adolfsén/Bildarkivet, Gdynia Karlskrona Stena Line 10−12 hours 1 × daily 1 × daily (FRONT COVER) © Elisabeth Toll/LundLund. Widstrand/imagebank.sweden.se, © Ola Eriksson/ © Trons/Scanpix, © Bigben/ICEHOTEL, © Katarina Grip Swinoujscie Ystad Polferries 6−7 hours 1 × daily 1 × daily (PAGE 3) © Tomas Utsi/Naturfoto, © Elisabeth Toll/LundLund. imagebank.sweden.se Höök/Linkimage. Swinoujscie Ystad Unity Line 7−9 hours 2 × daily 2 × daily (PAGE 4−5) © Björn Olin/Folio, © SvenskTenn, © Dick (PAGE 28−29) © Elisabeth Toll/LundLund, © Bingo Rimér, The Baltic Countries to Sweden Clevestam/Naturbild, © Dick Clevestam/NordicPhotos, © Henrik Trygg/imagebank.sweden.se, © Lisa Nestorson/ OTHER PHOTOGRAPHIC MATERIAL supplied by local Ventspils Nynäshamn Stena Line 10−12 hours 5 × w e e k l y 5 × w e e k l y © Boqueria. Västsvenska Turistrådet, © Matilda svensk, © Gabriel tourism organisations, advertisers etc. Tallinn − Mariehamn Stockholm Tallink Silja 16 hours 1 × daily 1 × daily (PAGE 6) © Nicho Södling/imagebank.sweden.se, © Marie Berndtsson. Riga Stockholm Tallink Silja 16 hours 1 × daily 1 × daily Andersson/Skansen, © Björn Svensson/Bildarkivet, © iStock, (PAGE 30−31) FILM 2a uppslaget: © Erik G Svensson/Stockholm PUBLISHED BY: VisitSweden, 5 Upper Montagu Street, Klaipeda Karlshamn DFDS Lisco 13-14 hours 1 × daily 1 × daily © Ola Eriksson/imagebank.sweden.se, © Fotografiska, Visitors Board, © Jacob Forsell/Scanpix, © Sonypictures, London W1H 2AG. © Vasamuseet, © Jean-Baptiste Beranger/Artipelag. © Rest AB Kvarnen/Thomas Steinwender, © Sven Halling/ PROJECT TEAM: Per Nordström, Jane Wilde, Barbro Ireland to the UK (PAGE 10−11) © Nicho Södling/imagebank.sweden.se, © Erik Naturbild, © DN/Scanpix, © Nils Magnus Angantyr/Astrid McAusland, Jenny Aarnio, Jenny Jonevret. Belfast Cairnryan Stena Line 2 hours 15 min up to 6 × daily up to 6 × daily Olsson, © Göran Assner/imagebank.sweden.se, © Emilie Lager. Lindgrens Värld, © Bruno Ehrs/Linkimage, © Kentaroo PRODUCTION: Stendahls Advertising Agency, Göteborg. Belfast Liverpool Stena Line 8 hours 2 × daily 2 × daily (PAGE 12−13) © Leif Johansson/Bildarkivet, © Miriam Preis/ Tryman/Naturbild. PICTURE EDITORS, COPY AND GRAPHIC DESIGN: Dublin Holyhead Stena Line 2−3 hours 15 min 4 × d a i l y 4 × d a i l y imagebank.sweden.se, © Leif Johansson/Bildarkivet, (PAGE 32) © Staffan Andersson/Sydpol.com, © Fredrik Ekblad, Britton & Britton. Dun Laoghaire Holyhead Stena Line 2−3 hours 15 min 1 × daily 1 × daily © Christian Andersson, © Andreas Offesson/Bildarkivet. ystad.se, © Fredrik Ekblad, ystad.se, © Sandskogen.vendel­ REPRO: Rolf Tryckeri, Skövde and Stendahls, Göteborg. Rosslare Fishguard Stena Line 3.5 hours 2 × daily 2 × daily (PAGE 14) © Stockholm Pride, © Mats Lindfors/Webbkusten, restauranger.se PRINTED BY: Grafica Editoriale Printing, Bologna, Italy/ UK to Holland © Stefan Berg/Folio. (PAGE 34−35) © Tommy Pedersen/Junibacken, © Henning Blueprint AB, Stockholm. Harwich Hook of Holland Stena Line 6 hours 45 min 2 × daily 2 × daily (PAGE 15) © Kristian Löveborg, © Orrefors, © Frantzen Ström/Liseberg, © Örjan Karlsson/Astrid Lindgrens Värld, Newcastle Amsterdam DFDS Seaways 16.5 hours 1 × daily 1 × daily Lindeberg. © Moose Garden, © Universeum, © Roine Magnusson, © Frida This brochure contains paid-for advertising and is not a (PAGE 16−17) © Jonas Linell, © Acne, © Peo Olsson/Gärsnäs, Edlund/Vildmark i Värmland, © Orsa Grönklitt. ­complete listing. While every care has been taken to ensure UK to Denmark © Jakob Dahlström, © Jakob Dahlström, © Fredrik Broman/ (PAGE 36−37) © Tomas Utsi/Naturfoto, © Tomas Bergenfeldt/ the accuracy of the information in this publication, the Harwich Esbjerg DFDS Seaways 19 hours 15 min 4 × w e e k l y 4 × w e e k l y Humanspectra, © Thomas Harrysson/svensk Slöjd. Stockholm Adventures, © Johan Willner/imagebank.sweden.se, VisitSweden can accept no responsibility for any errors or Domestic Ferries (PAGE 20−21) © Tina Axelsson, © Felix Odell/Linkimage, © Per Dahl/Johner. omissions, nor for subsequent changes. Prices and other © Bruno Ehrs/Stafva Gårdsmejeri, © Miriam Preis/imagebank. (PAGE 38−39) © Johan Willner/imagebank.sweden.se, ­details were correct at October 2012 and currency conver- Nynäshamn Visby Destination Gotland 3 hours 15 min up to 6 × daily 2 × daily sweden.se, © Hotel Borgholm. Illustrations © Lars Esselius. © Anders Ekholm/Folio, © Staffan Widstrand, © Staffan sions are based on exchange rates applicable at that time. Oskarshamn Visby Destination Gotland 2 hours 55 min up to 3 × daily 1 × daily (PAGE 22−23) © Jonas Overödder/imagebank.sweden.se, Widstrand, © Håkan Vargas S/imagebank.sweden.se, © Håkan Prices, dates, hours of opening etc are subject to alteration Bridges © Cecilia Larsson/imagebank.sweden.se, © Mikael Almse/ Vargas S/imagebank.sweden.se, © Antti Leinonen/Naturbild. at short notice and readers are advised to check such details Copenhagen Malmö Öresund Link Västsvenska Turistrådet, © vdKG Design, © DalaFloda (PAGE 40−41) © Johan Hammar/Landskapet JO, © The Silent with their tour operator or travel agent. © VisitSweden 2012. Nyborg Korsör Great Belt Bridge Värdshus, © Martin Svalander/imagebanksweden.se, © Gösta Way, © Vargas Vildmarkslodge, © Nordic Footprints, © Kajak Fries, © Erik Olsson. Illustrations © Lars Esselius. & Uteliv, © Stockholm Adventures, © Åre Äventyrsbild/JoPe (PAGE 24) © Lena Granefelt/imagebank.sweden.se Fors & Fjäll, © batbilden.se WEB SITES Stena Line, www.stenaline.co.uk HH-Ferries, www.hhferries.se Tallink Silja Line, www.tallinksilja.com Polferries, www.polferries.pl TT-Line, www.ttline.com Sundbusserne, www.sundsbussarna.se Viking Line, www.vikingline.se Unity Line, www.unityline.pl Scandlines, www.scandlines.com DFDS Seaways, www.dfdsseaways.com Birka Cruises, www.birkacruises.com Öresund Fixed Link, www.oeresundsbron.dk Color Line, www.colorline.com Eckerö Linjen, www.eckerolinjen.com Ånedinlinjen, www.anedinlinjen.se Great Belt Bridge, www.storebaelt.dk BornholmerFærgen, www.faergen.com Destination Gotland, www.destinationgotland.se RGline, www.rgline.com Sweden

Distance [km] Gävle Göteborg Halmstad Helsingborg Karlstad Kiruna Luleå Malmö Örebro Östersund Stockholm Sundsvall Umeå

Gävle 0

Göteborg 545

Halmstad 637 145

Helsingborg 717 229 87

Karlstad 325 249 405 485

Kiruna 1092 1636 1729 1809 1417

Luleå 761 1306 1399 1479 1087 344

Malmö 768 280 138 66 536 1860 1529

Örebro 262 282 377 453 108 1354 1023 514

Östersund 400 270 961 1040 638 998 667 1091 587

Stockholm 172 471 492 572 300 1263 933 622 191 572

Sundsvall 214 759 852 932 540 877 547 982 477 188 386

Umeå 490 1034 1128 1208 815 602 271 1258 752 396 661 275 0