History of Fermented Black Soybeans 1
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HISTORY OF FERMENTED BLACK SOYBEANS 1 HISTORY OF FERMENTED BLACK SOYBEANS (165 B.C. to 2011): EXTENSIVELY ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY AND SOURCEBOOK USED TO MAKE BLACK BEAN SAUCE. ALSO KNOW AS: FERMENTED BLACK BEANS, SALTED BLACK BEANS, FERMENTED SOYBEANS, PRESERVED BLACK BEANS, SALTY BLACK BEANS, BLACK FERMENTED BEANS, BLACK BEANS; DOUCHI, DOUSHI, TOUSHI, TOU-CH’IH, SHI, SHIH, DOW SEE, DOWSI (CHINESE); HAMANATTO, DAITOKUJI NATTO (JAPANESE); TAUSI, TAOSI (FILIPINO) Compiled by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi 2011 Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF FERMENTED BLACK SOYBEANS 2 Copyright (c) 2011 by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information and retrieval systems - except for use in reviews, without written permission from the publisher. Published by: Soyinfo Center P.O. Box 234 Lafayette, CA 94549-0234 USA Phone: 925-283-2991 Fax: 925-283-9091 www.soyinfocenter.com [email protected] ISBN 978-1-928914-41-9 (Fermented Black Soybeans) Printed 11 Dec. 2011 Price: Available on the Web free of charge Search engine keywords: History of fermented black soybeans History of fermented black beans History of Hamanatto History of Hamananatto History of black bean sauce History of shi History of shih History of salted black beans History of fermented soybeans History of douchi History of doushi History of preserved soybeans History of dow see History of tausi History of Daitokuji natto Bibliography of fermented black soybeans Bibliography of fermented black beans Bibliography of Hamanatto Bibliography of black bean sauce Bibliography of shi Bibliography of shih Bibliography of salted black beans Bibliography of fermented soybeans Bibliography of douchi Bibliography of preserved soybeans Bibliography of dow see Bibliography of tausi Bibliography of Daitokuji natto Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF FERMENTED BLACK SOYBEANS 3 Contents Page Dedication and Acknowledgments.................................................................................................................................. 4 Introduction and Brief Chronology, by William Shurtleff .......................................................................................... 5 About This Book ............................................................................................................................................................. 9 Abbreviations Used in This Book ................................................................................................................................ 10 How to Make the Best Use of This Digital Book - Search It! .................................................................................... 11 History of Fermented Black Soybeans: 754 References in Chronological Order ................................................... 15 Contains 54 Photographs and Illustrations Subject/Geographical Index by Record Numbers ................................................................................................... 356 Last Page of Index ....................................................................................................................................................... 398 Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF FERMENTED BLACK SOYBEANS 4 DEDICATION AND ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Japanese translation and maps: Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. This book is dedicated to the Chinese people of the Han Loma Linda University, Del E. Webb Memorial Library dynasty who, with great creativity and perseverance, (Seventh-day Adventist): Janice Little, Trish Chapman. developed this, the earliest known fermented or processed soyfood. We would also like to thank our co-workers and friends at Soyinfo Center who, since 1984, have played a major role in Part of the enjoyment of writing a book lies in meeting collecting the documents, building the library, and producing people from around the world who share a common interest, the SoyaScan database from which this book is printed: and in learning from them what is often the knowledge or skills acquired during a lifetime of devoted research or Irene Yen, Tony Jenkins, Sarah Chang, Laurie Wilmore, practice. We wish to give deepest thanks... Alice Whealey, Simon Beaven, Elinor McCoy, Patricia McKelvey, Claire Wickens, Ron Perry, Walter Lin, Dana Scott, Jeremy Longinotti, John Edelen, Alex Lerman, Lydia Of the many libraries and librarians who have been of great Lam, Gretchen Muller, Joyce Mao, Luna Oxenberg, Joelle help to our research over the years, several stand out: Bouchard, Justine Lam, Joey Shurtleff, Justin Hildebrandt, Michelle Chun, Olga Kochan, Loren Clive, Marina Li, University of California at Berkeley: John Creaser, Lois Rowyn McDonald, Casey Brodsky, Hannah Woodman, Farrell, Norma Kobzina, Ingrid Radkey. Elizabeth Hawkins, Molly Howland, Jacqueline Tao, Lynn Hsu. Northern Regional Library Facility (NRLF), Richmond, California: Martha Lucero, Jutta Wiemhoff, Scott Miller, Special thanks to Tom and Linda Wolfe of Berwyn Park, Virginia Moon, Kay Loughman. Maryland. Stanford University: Molly Molloy, who has been of special For outstanding help on this book we thank: Alfred help on Slavic-language documents. Birnbaum, H.T. Huang, Makiko Kageura, Cecilia Chiang, Eugene N. Anderson, and Dong Minsheng. National Agricultural Library: Susan Chapman, Kay Derr, Carol Ditzler, John Forbes, Winnifred Gelenter, Henry Finally our deepest thanks to Tony Cooper of San Ramon, Gilbert, Kim Hicks, Ellen Knollman, Patricia Krug, California, who has kept our computers up and running since Sarah Lee, Veronica Lefebvre, Julie Mangin, Ellen Mann, Sept. 1983. Without Tony, this series of books on the Web Josephine McDowell, Wayne Olson, Mike Thompson, would not have been possible. Tanner Wray. This book, no doubt and alas, has its share of errors. These, Library of Congress: Ronald Jackson, Ronald Roache. of course, are solely the responsibility of William Shurtleff. Lane Medical Library at Stanford University. This bibliography and sourcebook was written with the hope that someone will write a detailed and well-documented Contra Costa County Central Library and Lafayette Library: history of this subject. Carole Barksdale, Kristen Wick, Barbara Furgason, Sherry Cartmill, Linda Barbero. Harvard University’s Five Botanical Libraries (especially Arnold Arboretum Library): Jill Gelmers Thomas. French translation: Martine Liguori of Lafayette, California, for ongoing, generous, and outstanding help since the early 1980s. Copyright © 2011 by Soyinfo Center HISTORY OF FERMENTED BLACK SOYBEANS 5 INTRODUCTION What are Fermented Black Soybeans? Brief Chronology of Fermented Black Soybeans They are dull-black, somewhat shriveled and soft soybeans that often have tiny salt crystals on them. Most have a hint 165 B.C. – Fermented black soybeans are found clearly of ginger fl avor. Never eaten alone, they are widely used as marked in Han Tomb No. 1 at Mawangdui near today’s a condiment or seasoning in Chinese cooking, especially Changsha, Hunan province, in south-central China. The tomb in “black bean sauce.” They have a strong and complicated was sealed in about 165 B.C. and was fi rst opened in 1972. fl avor. The high-ranking lady to whom the tomb belonged was probably the wife of the fi rst Marquis of Tai. When and where did they originate? They were found in a tomb that was sealed in about 165 B.C. in south-central 90 B.C. – In the Shiji (Records of the Historian) by Sima China. So they probably existed in China by 200 B.C., Qian, Chapter 69 refers to 1,000 earthenware vessels of mold- making them the oldest known soyfood worldwide. fermented cereal grains and salty fermented soybeans (shi). They were now an important commodity in China. Huang How are they made? By a two-step fermentation process: (2000, p. 337) tells this story from the Shiji ((Biography In the fi rst step soybeans (usually black soybeans) are of the Prince of Huainan, Chap. 118): “When the Prince cooked, drained, and inoculated with the koji mold of Huainan (the legendary inventor of tofu), was exiled (Aspergillus oryzae), then incubated until they are covered for inciting rebellion (in 173 BC), against his brother, the with a fragrant mycelium. The soybeans are immersed in Han Emperor Wendi, he and his retinue were, nevertheless, salt water with fresh ginger and other herbs or spices – provided with such necessities of life as ‘fi rewood, rice, traditionally in a wooden vat. Pressure is applied and the salt, shi [fermented black soybeans], and cooking utensils.’” mixture is allowed to age and ripen for about 6 months. Note that the date 173 BC is before Han Tomb No. 1 at Then the soybeans are drained, dried in sunlight, and sold. Mawangdui was sealed! Note: Those that are not made from black soybeans turn black during the fermentation process. 40 B.C. – The Jijiu Pian [Handy Primer or Dictionary for Urgent Use], by Shi You, mentions shi (fermented black Where are they made and used today? They are most soybeans), a clear indication of their great popularity. popular, by far, in southern China, but they are also made and used in Japan, and the Philippines. 76 A.D. – The Qian Hanshu [History of the Former Han Dynasty], by Ban Gu mentions shi. Chapter 61, titled The word “natto” in Japanese: This word is used in “Record of economic affairs” states that two of the seven Japanese refer to two very different foods, which causes wealthiest merchants