Chefs Redefine Southeast Asian Cuisine

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FOODFANATICS.COM SPRING FOODFANATICS.COM 2013 MONEY & SENSE MONEY Ten steps to savings Ten Cost Cutters

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PAGE 20 PAGE Burgers Can it ever be too big? be too Can it ever

cuisine Chefs redefine Southeast Asian

CHOPS GOT THE GOT

FOOD FANATICS GOT THE CHOPS SPRING 2013 SPRING 2013

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SPEAK SPICE, SOUTHEAST ASIAN STYLE Sweet DOWNLOAD THE MAGAZINE ON IPAD success FOOD The Cooler Side of Soup 08 Chill down seasonal soups for a hot crowd pleaser.

Flippin’ Burgers 12 Pile on the wow factor to keep up with burger pandemonium.

All Grown Up 16 Tricked out interpretations of the classic tater tot prove that this squat spud is little no more.

COVER STORY Dude, It’s Not Fusion 20 Chefs dig deep into Southeast Asian cuisine for modern takes on flavors they love.

Sticky Spicy Sweets and Wings FOOD PEOPLE

Want a Piece of Me? 32 Millennials make up the dining demographic that every operator wants. Learn how to get them. Road Trip to Philadelphia 39 A food revolution is happening in the See this recipe made right birthplace of the Declaration of Independence. now on your smartphone Simplot Sweets® don’t take away from traditional fry sales, they simply sweeten your Who Can Cook? bottom line. With their farm-cured natural sweetness and variety of kitchen-friendly cuts, 40 Martin Yan can, of course. And after 34 years in the business, there’s no stopping him. you can use them to create stunning appetizers in addition to incredible fry upgrades. Discover more sweet recipes at simplotfoods.com/sweets. All About Them 42 Meet chefs with a passion for the business - just like you

BLEED: 9.25" x 10.75" TRIM: 9" x 10.5" LIVE: 8.5" x 10" 03131775016344-13 MONEY & SENSE Join the conversation on facebook.com/ Fast Casual Rules usfoodfanatics 46 Growth has slowed but the concept of serving Hey, Watch Your food fast in a casual setting continues to domi- nate. Find out why. Gravy, Buddy! This Won’t Hurt 51 Ten ways to cut costs. It’s so painless that the only thing you’ll feel is a fatter wallet.

Tea, Anyone? 60 Tea cocktails are brewing on drink menus and boosting bar sales.

IN EVERY ISSUE ADVERTISEMENT FOOD Trend Tracker SCAN FOR RECIPE 19 Look like an industry hero by knowing what’s hot—and not. PAGE 3 FOOD PEOPLE Sage & Brown Butter Staff Meal Mashed Potatoes 36 Give line cooks a shot at staff meal to help them take charge and hone skills.

MONEY & SENSE Beyond the Kitchen 54 With an eye toward design, small spaces can have big impact.

iHelp 56 Reservation systems that do more than book Watch your turkey get out-gobbled. tables.

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The PR Machine 63 How to make Instagram work for you. IT’S REIGNING TOTS! GET RECIPES AT Potato Pearls ® are the perfect complement to any entrée. Just mix up a batch and By the Numbers add your favorite ingredients. Moments later, you’ve got a new signature side dish and 64 Still not sold on the power of social media? FOODFANATICS.COM a savory boost to your bottom line. Just scan the QR code or visit baf.com/monarch Look here. PAGE 18 for this complete recipe and more delicious side dish specials featuring mashed

potato products. ™ Potato Granules ASYS 8552663 ® Potato Pearls Extra Rich Mash Potato Pearls . We make them easy—you make them amazing! baf.com/monarch ASYS 1328616 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 3 ©2013 Basic American Foods Potato Pearls® is a registered trademark of Basic American Foods Monarch is a copyright of US Foods View the magazine on iPad Download the Food Fanatics app foodfanatics.com from iTunes US FOODS ADVISORY BOARD What am I, and on the web President and Chief Executive Officer at FoodFanatics.com John Lederer Chopped Liver? Chief Merchandising Officer Pietro Satriano Chief Operating Officer Stuart Schuette Vice President of Marketing Marshall Warkentin FOOD FANATICS FOR US FOODS Todd Pearson, Austin, Texas John Byrne, Minneapolis

PUBLISHING PARTNER Feedback: We welcome your comments. Publisher Please email us at: James Meyers [email protected] Executive Vice President Who are these people? Doug Kelly Write us at: Food Fanatics Magazine Chief Content Officer Imagination Publishing Those in the know provide insight, which writers turn into solid copy. Karen Budell 600 W. Fulton St. Suite 600 We hone and refine and then the magazine is brought to life with cool images Managing Director, Content Chicago, IL 60661 Cyndee Miller and sharp design. Some of our contributors are called out below. Senior Art Director Unless otherwise specified, Joline Rivera all correspondence sent to Food Fanatics is assumed Graphic Designer for publication and becomes Shannon Diamond the copyright property of US Foods. Content Director Laura Yee Advertising Information: SCAN FOR RECIPE Joline Rivera is always in design mode — For rates and a media Editors kit, contact Elizabeth Ervin and that’s not because she recently branded Carly Fisher at (312) 382-7860 or email Kelsey Nash a restaurant, from the logo to the interiors. [email protected]. She’s constantly looking around, taking it Content Strategist Cecilia Wong Food Fanatics is the go-to all in and noticing everything. Her idea of a source for the foodservice Account Director industry and anyone truly Loaded Mashed Potatoes good time is brainstorming and conceptual Elizabeth Ervin thinking, designing Sweet Paul Magazine passionate about food, food Production Director people and improving the and cookbooks for various publishers. Kelley Hunsberger bottom line. Issued quarterly and hand-delivered to read- Photographer ers, the magazine is a US Tyllie Barbosa Photography Foods publication produced by Imagination Publishing, Contributing Writers Inc., 600 W. Fulton St., Suite Kelly Aiglon 600, Chicago, IL 60661, David Farkas (312) 887-1000. Paula Forbes David Farkas has been writing about Kurt Michael Friese For more information on Peter Gianopulos restaurants for more than two decades, US Foods’ Food Fanatics Monica Ginsburg initiative and program, visit covering the advent of celebrity chefs, Scott Hume www.foodfanatics.com Jennifer Olvera All rights reserved. © second- and third-wave coffee shops, Kirk Pynchon cocktail culture, and fast casual restaurants. Helen Rosner outflank a Flank steak. Jonathan Sidener He is also a restaurant critic for the Cleveland Stacy Warden Plain Dealer and a member of Results Thru Strategy, a group of restaurant consultants. As one of America’s great food companies and leading distributors, US Foods is Keeping Kitchens Cooking and making life easier for more than 250,000 customers, including independent and multi- unit restaurants, healthcare and hospitality entities, government and educational institutions. The company offers more than 350,000 products, and proudly employs approximately 25,000 people in more than 60 locations nationwide. US Foods is head- Helen Rosner is the executive digital editor quartered in Rosemont, Ill., and jointly owned by funds managed by for Saveur magazine, a role that came via Clayton, Dubilier & Rice Inc. and Kohlberg Kravis Roberts & Co. a roundabout route involving book editing, restaurant reviewing, portrait photography, full-time blogging for New York Magazine, Potato Pearls ® are a savory way to boost your bottom line. Just add a few of your and being generally addicted to the internet. favorite ingredients and – voila – you’ve got a new signature side dish that may make Her other obsessions include drinking whiskey, eating lunch and working toward your main entrées a little nervous. To view this recipe and other special ideas in a snap her goal to visit every state in America. 9300 W. Higgins Rd. featuring mashed potato products, scan the QR code or visit baf.com/monarch. ™ Suite 500 Rosemont, IL 60018 Potato Granules ASYS 8552663 (847) 720-8000 Potato Pearls Extra Rich Mash ® www.usfoods.com Potato Pearls . We make them easy—you make them amazing! baf.com/monarch ASYS 1328616 4 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 5 ©2013 Basic American Foods Potato Pearls® is a registered trademark of Basic American Foods Monarch is a copyright of US Foods FOOD Menu ideas to keep on the burner

Play It Cool With so much seasonal produce and inventive ways to serve it, cold soup is heating up

6 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 7 IF YOU POLLED diners on the cold soups Americans are most familiar with, you’d likely have an overwhelming number of checks in the “gazpacho” box. But virtually any hot soup can be served chilled. It’s TIME TO just a matter of choosing the right seasonal ingredients.

Watermelon-Tomato Gazpacho BY STACY WARDEN Chef-owner Jose Garces Mercat a la Planxa, Chicago

10 roma tomatoes, peeled, cored and quartered CHI LL8 pounds seedless watermelon, cubed 4 cucumbers, peeled and diced 3 cups mineral water ¼ cup sherry vinegar 3 ounces stale bread 3 cloves garlic ½ cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt to taste Crab salad garnish, recipe follows Chilled carrot soup with cashews, golden raisins Place tomatoes, watermelon, cucumbers, mineral and yogurt from Buccan, THE SEASON IS RIPE water, sherry vinegar, bread and garlic in Robot Palm Beach, Fla. Coupe or food processor and process on medium/high speed. Add olive oil to emulsify. Season with salt to taste and garnish with crab salad. Makes two gallons.

To make crab salad: Toss together 6 pounds lump crab meat, 3 bell peppers cored and diced small, 2 ounces chopped tarragon, 1 ounce chopped parsley, 1 ounce chopped chives, 2 ounces extra TO GIVE SOUP A virgin olive oil and salt to taste. Mix in crème fraîche as needed for salad to hold together. If desired, serve on toasted baguette with COOL MAKEOVER whipped goat cheese and sliced avocado. 8 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 9 ➼ As spring morphs into summer, chefs across cumber with herbs like basil and mint. “Mich- the country are playing with the abundance of igan summers do get hot and we find guests SOUP’S ON! seasonal vegetables to create satiating soups. are happy to try a cold soup in lieu of a salad Get Chef Angus Whether they’re enticed by renewed rever- as a starter course,” says Sarah Bielman, the Brown’s cold corn The Great Vichyssoise Debate ence for all things vegetable or merely want catering manager. This summer, the menu soup recipe from Vichyssoise is another common FOODFANATICS.COM to help diners beat the heat, it doesn’t matter. takes advantage of Michigan’s local produce cold soup—and one that’s just as Just start ladling. with chilled potato and golden tomato recipes, quick to spark a culinary kerfuffle. presented in classic soup bowls at $7 for a six- Some claim the leek and potato- To-mato, Tom-ahto ounce portion. based soup is an American Tomatoes are summer’s supreme produce, Once apple season starts, diners make a invention, while others argue it’s most definitely French. Either way, which in part explains the everlasting beeline to Moosewood in Ithaca, N.Y., where vichyssoise is a staple for both popularity of gazpacho. But the secret chilled apple soup has become a late-summer French and European menus. weapon is fresh cucumbers, says Executive staple since the restaurant began ladling it The one at Bern’s Steak House in Chef Joe Magnanelli of Cucina Urbana in out in the early ‘80s. “We’re in a cooler part Tampa, Fla., gets an upscale spin San Diego, Calif. of the country, so when it finally gets hot, we with black truffle crème fraîche, June is prime for the cool, crispy cucumbers all want something chilled,” co-owner David Osetra caviar, white truffle oil and shaved fried potato for $10.95. that shine in Magnanelli’s gazpacho, often Hirsch says. While the Scandinavian soup spiced up with nepitella (wild Italian herb), leans toward the sweeter side, it’s not intended mint or serrano chiles. No matter what he for dessert. Hirsch says the soup has a subtle Soup’s Sweeter Side throws in, the goal is to make sure it’s not too savory profile, thanks to onions and vegetable Cold soups can serve as inspira- reminiscent of salsa. No one wants guests pin- stock, that allow it to play well as a hot soup tion for the ideal dessert. Fruit- ing for a side of chips to scoop up their soup. during colder months. based versions hit the spot at At Oxheart in Houston, Texas, Chef- the end of a meal, like the chilled melon soup with strawberry sorbet owner Justin Yu plans to showcase Timing It Right and peach gelée that punctuates tomatoes this summer with chilled smoked Chilled soups are bigger hits during late morn- the six-course $70 tasting menu at tomato consommé. Yu smokes and blends ing and afternoon at Cucina Urbana, where Matthew’s in Jacksonville, Fla. ripe tomatoes, then strains the mixture Magnanelli leaves them off the dinner menu. An Indian-inspired mango soup through cheesecloth, resulting in a clear, Likewise, Moosewood’s chilled apple soup is begs saving room at Houston’s highly concentrated liquid. To top it off, well received among the brunch crowd, Hirsch Indika, complete with a bright pink he’ll play on the tomato’s natural flavors by says, likely because of its sweeter notes. raspberry-basil sorbet and cardamom cookies for $8. Chilled fruit serving them raw as a garnish. Cold soups have more fans on the dinner concoctions are also a fixture on menu at Oxheart, where Yu serves them as a Nathan’s Soup and Salad summer Northern Exposure palate opener at the start of his seven-course menu. The Rochester, N.Y., res- As off as it may sound, chilled soups fare well in tasting menu. At Prasad in Portland, Ore., taurant serves a variety of sugary northern states. Abundant seasonal produce cold soups like grapefruit gazpacho, cucum- shots, including blueberry bisque, is particularly welcomed and appreciated as ber-avocado dill, and chilled pear are served orange creamsicle and watermelon coconut, $1.50 each or $4.95 for a relief for unusually hot summer temperatures. year-round. flight of four. In Traverse City, Mich., Trattoria Stella has Manna from Heaven, a family-run food

offered a creamy chilled soup that stars cu- truck based in Denver, bridges the seasons with a curry-tinged pumpkin bisque that’s Red, White or Somewhere chilled at the end of summer and warmed for In Between fall. “We wanted to create a modern ‘holiday’ Gazpacho may be the most rec-

soup that can be used for any occasion,” man- ognized cold soup, but its most authentic version is up for debate. ager Larry Galves says. Instead of getting hot under the

Manna diverts from the typical pumpkin collar, consider offering customers soups with Asian flavors like coconut milk and different takes. We wanted to create “ curry. The bisque, which is garnished with cin- Aside from the widely recog- namon and basil, and also includes plantains, nized red, chunky version featuring a modern ‘holiday’ water chestnuts and jackfruit, sells for $3 per tomatoes, cucumbers and other 12-ounce cup. chopped vegetables, there are two soup that can be used kinds of gazpacho that hail from No matter where cold soup inspiration Spain. One is also tomato based, for any occasion. comes from, simply strive to bring customers but it’s puréed and thickened with — Manager Larry“ Galves local, fresh ingredients and a reprieve from the stale bread. The other is white, Manna from Heaven summer heat. They’ll tip their spoons to you. n garlicky and thick from bread and ground almonds, and accented Stacy Warden specializes in tech and food with grapes. Each benefits from a writing for a variety of publications. drizzle of high quality extra virgin olive oil. 10 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 LADLE foodfanatics.comUP | FOOD FANATICS 11 IS YOUR MOUTH BIG ENOUGH FOR THIS? America’s unrelenting appetite for burgers can surely handle it

BY SCOTT HUME 46% consumers who like bacon on a burger TOMATO RED ONION ICEBERG LETTUCE SPICY MAYONNAISE PRIME BEEF DRY-AGED NANCY SILVERTON’S BACKYARD BURGER BACKYARD NANCY SILVERTON’S ANGELES LOS ORDER, SHORT BRIOCHE AVOCADO ARTISANAL BACON PICKLED FRESNO PEPPERS COMT É CHEESE

THE TURNING POINT for the humble American Boulud made it not just de rigueur, but nearly mandatory for burger came at the hands of a Frenchman. Kicking restaurants at all price points to have at least one signature burger. Even the elegant Villa at the J. Paul Getty Museum in convention to the curb in 2001, Daniel Boulud Los Angeles boasts a burger topped with caramelized bacon, created a version with all the hallmarks of fine wild mushrooms, Gruyère, baby spinach and gremolata aioli. Most importantly, Boulud’s DB Burger challenged chefs to dining: short ribs braised in wine, foie gras, black use top-quality ingredients and to rethink all elements of a truffle and root vegetable mirepoix wrapped in burger. The improvement in quality resonates with the “farm 54% 66% 68% to table” movement, as many restaurants proudly name their ground sirloin. Topped with a house-made bun, consumers consumers consumers meat purveyor on their menu. New York City’s Amsterdam who like raw who like who like toasted Parmesan, horseradish mayonnaise, Tavern and Michael Symon’s B Spot Burgers in Cleveland onion on tomato on lettuce on call out Pat La Frieda on the menu for the purveyor’s custom tomato, tomato confit and frisee, his burger at DB a burger a burger a burger blend beef. Bistro Moderne in New York launched with a $27 Today, the possibilities seem so infinite that even the most price tag, but everyone had to try it. creative culinary mind can reach burnout. Many gastropubs, ➼ 2012 1,009 ADULTS, STUDY, BEEF ASSOCIATION CATTLEMEN’S SOURCE: NATIONAL 12 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 13

taverns and burger joints now invite cus- Bad Ass Burger ➼ tomers to design burgers, like Milwaukee Who’s burgers are best? Tell us on Chef-owner Frank Scibelli

Burger Co. in Eau Claire, Wis., which lets Bad Daddy’s Burger Bar BRIOCHE Twitter @foodfanatics HERB BUN patrons create a new burger each month. Charlotte, N.C. Recent winner Anna Chaplin’s creation BUN WHOLE WHEAT topped a burger patty with ham sautéed 1¼ pound applewood smoked in brown sugar and butter, plus pineap- bacon, partially frozen 1¼ ground beef (hangar steak, ple, jalapeño slices, raw onion and mus- brisket, chuck) tardy mayo. 1/3 cup mayonnaise Don’t fret if your burger is so 3 teaspoon horseradish gargantuan that it needs a fork and 1½ teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

knife. Anything goes as long as it makes GRAIN BUN MULTI ¼ tablespoon garlic, minced a customer say, “I gotta try it,” just as PRETZEL BUN the fancy DB Burger did more than a 3½ cups all purpose flour 2 tablespoons ground black n decade ago. pepper

1 tablespoon kosher salt SESAME ROLL KNOTTED Scott Hume is the editor of BurgerBusi- 2 cups vegetable oil ness.com, a digital menu/marketing 8 slices bacon news magazine for burger restaurateurs. 4 ounces buttermilk 8 slices cheddar cheese 4 pieces green leaf lettuce 1 large tomato, cut into 8 slices The Daily Grind 4 hamburger buns

Some 74 percent of consumers say meat Cut applewood smoked bacon into 1-inch pieces. Place in food quality and taste are the most important Brioche, bookends. parts of a burger, according to food processor and pulse until puréed and pretzel but before fat becomes smeared; industry consulting and research firm buns gluten-free are trendy burger burger trendy are Technomic. But what’s the optimal blend chill 30 minutes. Fold ground beef of meats and balance of lean to fat? into chilled bacon by hand and That’s up for debate. Slater’s 50/50 mix thoroughly. Portion into eight in Anaheim Hills, Calif., takes its name patties. from its signature blend of equal parts ground beef and ground bacon, while Whisk together mayonnaise, New York City’s Rare Bar & Grill includes horseradish, Worcestershire and ground rib-eye. The burger supplied by garlic; refrigerate. Pat LaFrieda & Son to Bistro Vivant in McLean, Va., is a mix of two parts beef In separate bowl, sift together chuck, one part brisket and one part flour with salt and pepper. boneless short rib. Heat vegetable oil in deep fryer Plain, multigrain, English muffin, English muffin, multigrain, Plain, bun or market selection gluten-free nationwide The Counter, whole-wheat or plain bun, Pretzel, (served in a bowl) brioche or bun-less Burger Joint, Hole in the Wall Santa Monica, Calif. At Black Betty Burger & Winebar in TO CHEESE ARTISANAL FROM DOMESTIC FROM AROUND THE WORLD— VARIETIES ARE LIMITLESS. POSSIBILITIES THE CHEESE ARE COMTÉ AND WHITE CHEDDAR FETA, POPULAR. OTHERS: pepper Jack, sharp cheddar, Colby, Wisconsin blue and smoked mozzarella, vegan cheddar City New York Bareburger, and locally House-made mozzarella sourced goat cheese Atlanta Burger, Farm organic cheddar, reserve Grafton Gouda Sara Duchess American, Local 186 Burgers & Beer, Provincetown, Mass. Calgary, Alberta, the house blend is pri- or deep skillet to 350 F. Dip bacon marily brisket, and Stack’d Burger Bar in into buttermilk, dredge in flour and fry until golden; drain. Milwaukee blends bratwurst and beef for its German Stack burger. Percentage of fat in ground beef var- Cook patties to medium well on ies, but the blend Los Angeles’ Hunting- grill or grill pan. Melt one slice ton Meats created specifically for Nancy of cheese on each patty. Spread one-quarter of the horseradish

Silverton’s Short Order is coarsely ground with 20 percent to 28 percent fat for mayo on top bun. Layer one slice extra flavor and better texture. 48% of lettuce, two tomatoes and two There’s no one way to make a stellar patties with melted cheese on burger. But to not experiment with beef, consumers who eat a bottom bun. Cut bacon in half; buns and more to make one all your own burger at least once a layer two full pieces on top of would just be wrong. patties. Keep closed with skewer. week, up from 38 percent Makes 4 double patty burgers. LOOK TWICE: HAIL THE ALMIGHTY BURGER IS SO HOT: MORE THAN ONE PROTEIN Spicy Monk Burger beef Chorizo mixed into ground A customer creation Lucky Monk, South Barrington, Ill. Memphis Barbecue Burger with sauced pulled pork, Topped cheese and fried onions nationwide Carl’s Jr./Hardee’s, Burger Pastrami and Piled with sliced pastrami housemade coleslaw Glendale, Calif. Eden Burger Bar, Burger Yo! hot coppa, with fried salami, Topped and ShaSha hot sauce provolone peppers, B Spot Burgers, Cleveland DO MORE THAN HOLD A BURGER A BUN CAN MAKE A CUSTOMER TOGETHER. IT CAN wheat buns Salt-and-pepper brioche, a local baker from and ciabatta rolls Mo. City, Burgers + Bottles, Kansas Blanc * of its PartsThe Trend

in 2009 1,500 SAMPLE * TECHNOMIC CONSUMER TREND REPORT,

14 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 15 Once toddling on kids plates, this iconic BY PAULA FORBES spud is all a new grown up from tater treats to imi-taters Tater tots were invented by generation of tater tots F. Nephi Grigg of Ore-Ida in Forget everything But where did this tot mania come from? As the to what we do at Trenchermen, [presenting] fa- recipe requires a day of prep and includes tedious Just Can’t Get Enough 1953 as a way to use excess popularity of throwback foods continues to rise miliar flavors in an unfamiliar way.” ingredients that need time to set, like gelatin, Tater tots can be a major draw for customers—and potato shavings that came you know about that among trendy independents, chefs are follow- For Chef Adam Stein of Cause in Washington, agar agar and meat glue. an inspiration for competitors. The Parmesan and from making frozen french cafeteria side dish kids ing the lead of chains like Sonic and Taco John’s DC, tots serve a different purpose: a recogniz- To make up labor costs, Trenchermen added rosemary mashed tater tots with bacon jam or fries. Originally, the shavings to try progressive takes on the French fry alter- able format that entices customers to try less a dollar to the price of the pickle tots after they fruit jam are the biggest seller at San Francisco’s were sold as livestock feed. love—these tots are native while creating the perfect low-cost reve- common cuts of meat. Stein’s version resembles were first introduced. Filling 300-400 orders per Jamber Wine Pub, but long before opening, Chef- for adults only. From nue driver. the cylindrical tot but is potato-less, consisting week, the Sheerins say the extra dollar per order owner Jess Voss had been eyeing them around The term “tater tot” is a of pulled pork trotter mixed with whole-grain helps offset the cost of additional shifts for a cook. town. “[I would] visit restaurants just to try their proprietary name owned by sandwich shops to fine Old School Treats, New School mustard and other seasonings and rolled in pan- Tater tot-covered nachos or “totchos” are the tots,” Voss says. “I love them and always knew I Ore-Ida. In Australia, tots are dining temples, restau- Treatments ko. “They are an innocuous, easily approachable top seller at Atlanta’s The Nook with almost would have them on my menu.” widely called “potato gems,” and non-Ore-Ida brands When chef brothers Mike and Pat Sheerin opened comfort food,” Stein says. “What better way to 1,500 orders sold in one month. But general The feelings are mutual. The chefs at rants are tricking out have called them “tater their modern American Chicago restaurant get people to try pigs’ feet?” manager Meagan Hodge says that when it Trenchermen, The Nook and Cause all said their treats,” “tasti taters,” “potato tater tots in new ways, Trenchermen last year, no one thought a tater comes to pricing, shredded potatoes aren’t the tater tots are a top starter, if not the best selling crunchies,” and “spud pup- tot would become the signature menu item. Tap- Beware of Hidden Costs: Toppings only cost factor. dish overall. Voss says tots’ popularity makes transforming them into pies.” Ore-Ida’s website calls ping into the food community’s love affair with and Labor “When you add quality ingredients on top, their labor costs worthwhile. “They are the most these imposters “imi-taters.” bar snacks, entrees, comfort foods, the pickle tot was born: a cross Although the basic food costs for tater tots are you increase your costs,” Hodge says. Serving time-consuming item on our menu to prep—and Bloody Mary garnishes between a tater tot and a fried pickle, served with low, don’t assume they’re the cheapest dish to toppings like mac ‘n cheese, Coca-Cola barbe- we can’t make enough of them,” she says. n and even serving tots a red onion yogurt sauce and chicken bresaola. It produce. While the Sheerins say the profit margin cue sauce, pulled pork and house-made chili add became a runaway hit, despite its $12 price tag. on their pickle tots is solid, production is labor up, which is why the restaurant’s totchos range A national editor for Eater.com, Paula Forbes has For a taste of Crispy Trotter Tots ➼ without the tater. Pat Sheerin says the tots are “a great introduction intensive and requires an adept employee. The from $5 to $9. yet to meet a tater tot she didn’t like.

16 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 17 Just how hot is the season? TREND TRACKER These trends say it all Download the FOOD FANATICS app to view recipes on iPad Bartenders cut back on the sauce by shaking up low-proof cocktails and mocktails. Mason jars lose their kitsch appeal and The after-hours After a long love chefs are forced to drink of choice, affair, chicken ’n find other plateware. Fernet-Branca, waffles go their Crispy Trotter gets popular Regional separate ways (but among the Tater tots Japanese remain friends). Tots mainstream break out of Executive Chef Adam Stein cuisine offers crowd. the potato skin more than Cause DC, Washington, DC with cheffed bastardized up flavors teriyaki and 1 cup salt and signature California rolls. ½ cup sugar toppings. 5 juniper berries 2 bay leaves 5 black peppercorns 3 whole cloves 5 pounds trotters, whole or There are other split applications for 3 tablespoons whole-grain beets and goat mustard Tech-savvy chefs cheese aside Salt and black pepper to get snap-happy with from serving taste Instagram menus. them together. 2 eggs 2 cups whole milk 2 cups all purpose flour WARMING UP ON FIRE COOLING OFF 6 cups panko bread crumbs Oil for frying Durian finally gets Lemon aioli, your recipe its day as American palates shine onto Combine salt, sugar and aro- Southeast Asian matics with 1 gallon water and Sriracha has cuisine. bring to boil. Add trotters and some fiery simmer until tender and meat competition Get nostalgic with easily falls off the bone. Cool. in the hot sauce sophisticated touches game from on regional American Truffles lose Pick off meat and chop with Korea’s favorites. their luxe skin, and sinew into quarter chile paste, exclusivity when inch pieces. Combine with gochuchang. mustard and season with salt they’re the and ground black pepper. star ingredient Press mixture firmly into a in every dish. sheet pan and chill. Diners get their sweet snack Cut into rectangles to resem- fix with the Lobster rolls are ble tater tots. Whisk together return of cookie the Maine attraction eggs and milk. Dredge tots in plates. on summer menus. flour, dip in milk/egg mixture and roll in panko. Fry at 350F until golden brown. Serve House-made sodas are with lemon aioli. Makes 20 to bubbling up on drink 25 tots. Citrus lovers’ lists as mixers and non- alcohol pairings. Food on a stick? main squeeze is Sure. Cake pops? now grapefruit. Not so much.

18 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 19 Tamarind and lemongrass lamb chops at Charles THE FOODS CHEFS love to eat often Phan’s Slanted Door in San Francisco showcase become the menu items diners crave. the hot, sweet and salty As with dim sum, tacos or tapas, the Southeast Asian flavors chefs love. minute a chef gives the side-eye to a 2 a.m. bar burger, there’s a $38 short rib patty topped with a four-minute egg and a dusting of truffles on the menu.

The latest cuisine to be “modernized” or given the classical European culinary treatment is a longtime late-night favorite of chefs: Southeast Asian. Suddenly, traditional Thai, Filipino and Vietnamese foods are merging with a service-oriented sensibility and a hip soundtrack to produce something greater than the sum of its parts, and absolutely of the moment. ➼

COVER STORY DUDE, IT’S NOT

FUSISoutheast Asian gets the chef-eye N FUSI N in a totally new way BY HELEN ROSNER 20 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 21 WHOLE YOUNG RED AND DUCK ASIAN PEPPERCORNS GREEN PEPPER SEASONINGS COST MATTERS t wasn’t long ago that foodservice perspective, it can be $.01 $.30 $2 $.20 For Khong River error,” he says. “It wasn’t until I people coming into my hard to find ingredients at scale,” Breaking down the cost of a dish is essential to House’s Chinese went to the Philippines and really restaurant asked for she explains. “It’s only been in the managing menu pricing and profitability. broccoli recipe and immersed myself in the culture— sweet and sour sauce last five years that you can call up food costs, go to learning from grandmothers, from “ FOODFANATICS.COM or requestedI a basket of bread,” a distributor and order fish sauce.” PER SERVING OF DUCK: $3.94 maids, from chefs—that I began to says Mai Pham, chef-owner of Tracking down the best versions really feel it.” Sacramento’s longstanding Lemon of products is another issue. Un- .2% 8% 51% 5% Staying in touch with Thailand Grass Restaurant. “Now, all our less the restaurant is in a climate is a part of Andy Ricker’s identity customers will eat anything we similar to Thailand for growing as a chef and the success behind serve. And they know almost as indigenous vegetables—baby Thai his bicoastal Pok Pok restaurants much about the ingredients and eggplant, long beans or green papa- in Portland, Ore., and New York preparations as I do.” ya, and herbs such as shiso, galanga City. Even with decades of deep or kaffir lime—like Miami-based involvement in Thai cuisine be- A New Kind of Kitchen Khong River House, frozen pro- hind him, he goes back to Thai- “Working in Eurocentric kitchens, duce may be the only option. land every few months to stay you don’t encounter Southeast Pad Ped Grob connected with the culture and Asian flavors very often,” says Chef Don’t Forget Your Backpack the food. Jordan Kahn, a veteran of top-rated For those opening restaurants Prik Thai On A Westerner can certainly pick restaurants French Laundry, Per Se dedicated to a national cuisine, a (Crispy Duck) up basics in a week or a month, and Alinea. Yet, when the workday trip to the country of its origin is Owner John Kunkel but the essence of Southeast Asian ends at 3 a.m., a late-night noodle essential. While starting Maharlika Khong River House, Miami cuisine is challenging to capture ad shop may be the only thing open, and Jeepney in New York, it wasn’t hoc. “The food of Southeast Asia and soon, a plate of Malaysian mee enough for Miguel Trinidad to 2 duck legs, cut in three pieces includes some of the most complex goreng (fried noodles) or a pile of learn how to cook the food—he had Salt and pepper as needed cuisines in the world, with thou- 2 cups chicken or vegetable pork-filled Filipinolumpia (fried to go to the source. “I spent about sands of years of history behind stock, plus 2 tablespoons, spring rolls) becomes something a year on the food, lots of trial and divided use them,” says Khong River House craveable—and inspiring. Kahn’s Cornstarch, as needed owner John Kunkel, who lived in cravings led him to open Red Med- Canola oil as needed, plus ¼ cup Thailand for three and a half years. icine, the Los Angeles restaurant 2½ tablespoons onion, chopped “It’s difficult to drop in for a short where he creates dishes inspired 2 cloves garlic, chopped visit and just grab a few recipes.” by the Vietnamese pantry, such as 1 fresh green chile, chopped The restaurant’s “boat noodles,” 1 fresh red chile, chopped a brook trout roe with rice pudding 2½ tablespoons red and green for example, is a family recipe and Buddha’s hand citron. pepper, diced from Chef de Cuisine Duangwiwat Setting aside the classical Euro- 2 whole young peppercorns Khoetchapayook (known in the pean culinary mindset is tough for 8 green onions, chopped kitchen as Chef Danny) that con- cooks committed to replicating the 2 teaspoons basil, chopped tains more than 40 spices, house- food of Southeast Asia. But finding 1 tablespoon sweet black soy made meatballs and an abundance 4 tablespoons bottled stir fry authentic ingredients can present of fresh ingredients. “ We only have It wasn’t until I went seasoning an even greater challenge. “We go 2 tablespoons chicken stock this dish because we have Chef through about three cases of fish to the Philippines Danny, and his family trusts us,” sauce a week, plus kecap manis Season duck generously with Kunkel says. (sweet soy sauce) from Indonesia, and really immersed salt and pepper and allow to sit palm sugar, cane vinegar—a whole myself in the overnight. Bring stock to a boil, Blame It on Bourdain Southeast Asian pantry,” says add duck and simmer 2 hours until A love affair with exotic tender. Dredge in cornstarch and culture...that I really ingredients, like citrusy herbs, Kahn, who leans on Los Angeles’s fry in oil for a few minutes until large Vietnamese communities for began to feel it. skin is crispy; drain. sweet-spiced sausages and salty, some of his sourcing. fermented seafood sauces, is part For Pham, Sacramento’s Thai — Maharlika and Jeepney CHICKEN GARLIC AND BASIL GREEN CHILE GREEN ONION SALT AND PEPPER, CANOLA OIL Heat ¼ cup oil in wok or large saute of the reason modern Southeast chef-owner Miguel Trinidad and Vietnamese communities STOCK ONION AND RED CHILE CORNSTARCH pan until smoky. Add onion, and Asian cuisine is booming.But provide enough support for $.53 $.17 $.20 $.10 $.25 $.03 $.15 toss for 1 minute. Add garlic, chiles convincing customers to branch Lemon Grass, but supplying her and peppers and cook 1 additional out beyond takeout-style pad minute. Add peppercorns and fast casual chain Star Ginger— green onion, sauté for a minute and thai, lumpia and pho is half of with locations from California add remaining ingredients. Toss the equation. to western Massachusetts— with duck and serve with Chinese Diners are more apt to try new can be more vexing. “From a 13% 4% 5% 2% 7% .8% 4% broccoli. Makes two servings. things thanks to Anthony Bour- 22 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 *served with jasmine rice; price not included foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 23 dain and Andrew Zimmern, the intrepid TV am- You Get What You Pay For bassadors of odd and unexpected edibles. Trinidad Whether you’re taking a cue from Kahn’s riffs on the 5 WAYS TO A SOUTH - credits them with spawning interest in traditional Vietnamese classics or Ricker’s faithful recreations EAST ASIAN FEEL dishes like tripe, ruffle fat and evenbalut —the Filipi- of authentic Thai dishes, there’s still the hurdle of no street food delicacy of a fertilized duck egg—which convincing customers to pay white tablecloth prices are flying out of the kitchen. for foods that cost a buck or two at the take-out spot 1 That’s not to say there aren’t limits. Ricker rec- down the street. Play with flavors and ognizes that the popular Thai dish, raw pork laap “As soon as you have a pair of chopsticks on the textures. At Jeepney, (minced meat salad mixed with raw blood, spices, table—unless you’re serving Japanese food, which Chef Miguel Trinidad mixes herbs and cooked offal), wouldn’t play well at Pok is considered to be very high-end—you can’t charge bagoong (fermented shrimp Pok. But that doesn’t mean blood is entirely off the above a certain amount,” says Kahn, whose airy, paste) with mayonnaise, and serves it on a cured pork menu: the cooked version of the dish, laap muu suk, modern dining room is more tasting-menu than sausage sandwich. is “more than accessible,” Ricker says. “People love it, take-out. and when it’s on the menu, it sells well.” Khong River House strives to be both a local joint 2 and a destination restaurant. Kunkel says the sophis- Don’t be scared by Balancing Act ticated ambiance and well-rounded wine and cock- “authenticity.” While chefs The success of a modern Southeast Asian restaurant tail programs make diners comfortable forking over may recoil from the word is more than a balance of flavors. It’s a matter of ap- $17 for a jungle curry, $5 for a side of sticky rice and “fusion,” there’s plenty of pealing to customers who may not be familiar with upwards of $42 for the restaurant’s bestselling salt cultural mixing. At Khong River the menu while paying homage to the history and encrusted, lemongrass-stuffed fish. House, the “G.I.... Breakfast” tradition of the cuisine. Maybe it’s meticulous sourcing, a commitment to is a popular Bangkok street dish of pork hash, charcoal- “We were terrified of the (Filipino) community hyper-authentic recipes or pantry items, or just what grilled Chinese sausage and coming down to the restaurant and saying, ‘Hey, Ricker calls “the undeniable deliciousness of South- eggs over-easy inspired by that’s not Filipino food! This isn’t right, why are east Asian food,” but these chefs’ modern Southeast American soldiers stationed you cooking my food like this?’” Trinidad says of his Asian restaurants are full virtually every night. in the region in the 1950s French technique-inflected cuisine. Hispata , for ex- “I thought we were going to get lots of com- and 1960s. ample—the famous Filipino fried pork leg—is cooked plaints about the food, lots of people not liking

3 confit-style, for meltingly tender meat with a crisp these new things they were eating,” Trinidad says. exterior. “But when we get a complaint now, it’s usually just Watch your timing. But Trinidad and other chefs say the reception people not wanting to wait as long as they have to “Thai food is inherently from Southeast Asian communities has been over- to get a table.” n quicker to prepare than typical western food because whelming. “These are flavors they know, but they get the cooking techniques are to experience them in totally new ways, and that’s Helen Rosner is the executive digital editor at simpler and faster,” says Pok something they love,” Kahn says. Saveur magazine. She lives in New York. Pok’s Andy Ricker. A Thai stir-fry, for example, might hit the pass well before a char- grilled pork chop. Nua Nam Tok at Khong River House: 4 a salad of grilled flank steak with fish Bring in the experts. sauce, lime and chile Give your staff a cultural powder dressing. crash course, like John Kunkel at Khong River House, who puts his staff through “Thai food school,” complete with midterms, quizzes and a final exam.

5 Quality takes investment. Even if you have a handle on protein costs, Southeast Asian cuisine is reliant on beautiful herbs and indigenous vegetables that can be costly, especially in the wintertime. PHOTO BY DAVID CABRERA BY DAVID PHOTO

24 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 25 FF_Summer_2013_John Letter_IL.pdf 1 4/22/13 3:22 PM

inspiring our industry

I’m often asked what makes US Foods unique, and my response is always the same: US Foods is about three things – food, food people and making it easy to work with us. It’s a simple approach, but one that lets us bring the most value to our customers.

Just like our customers, our ﬁrst focus is on the food we provide. This year, our Scoop promotions continue to feature products that can help your restaurant expand its success, and the second annual Next Top Product contest will drive our search for something entirely new that can be o ered to all customers. Behind the scenes, we’re working with our suppliers to ﬁnd new products and to expand our o ering to ensure that restaurants have the variety of products they need.

Food Fanatics are the brand ambassadors and senior consultants of US Foods. Our 2013 graduates will be introduced this summer and are already working with restaurants in markets across the U.S. to identify new ways for customers to be successful. With an active online community that fosters ongoing dialogue and discussion, they’re part of the latest perspectives about food and food people.

We know your time is valuable and that you need to make decisions constantly throughout the day in order to serve your customers. We want it to be easy to work with us, and so we’ve introduced new tools to help you get the right products when you need them. This edition of Food Fanatics demonstrates our commitment to bringing you the information you need to grow your business.

Food. Food People. Easy. Come learn more about how US Foods can assist in your kitchen’s continued success.

John Lederer President and Chief Executive O cer US Foods

26 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 27 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 29 Text about what else is in this FOODFOOD PEOPLEPEOPLE Voicessection impacting of the book the goes industry here

Cali Café 100% Colombian Dark Roast Discover rich, robust flavor from the lush mountains of Cali, Colombia, and surrounding areas, where the world’s finest coffee beans have been growing for nearly 300 years. Mining Millennials An exceptional meal demands equally impressive coffee, which is Dig into this demographic and you just found in our premium 100% Arabica beans, freshly roasted and blended for a perfectly balanced cup of coffee. Enjoy our smooth, may hit gold full-bodied dark roast or dark roast decaffeinated to complement a meal, dessert or on its own.

foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 31 Obsessed with communal dining, snacking and other eating habits, these 18 to 33 year olds have evolved into one of the most complex—and enigmatic— generations of American diners. They’re poised to transform the restaurant industry as dramatically as their baby boomer parents

BY PETER GIANOPULOS

Here’s a tough nut to crack: how exactly “Millennials are particularly tied to the social aspects of dining,” says Sara Monnette, director of consumer research for hospitality do you capture the hearts and stomachs of the research firm, Technomic. “Baby boomers might spend more at millennial generation, one rife with complexities restaurants, but millennials go out to eat far more frequently. It’s and contradictions? ingrained in their lifestyle so they’ll find ways to go out, even if it’s using the money they saved by moving in with their parents.”

If you pore over the data—and there’s plenty of it—three themes Craving Change emerge: community, technology and good old-fashioned corporate Marketing firms often focus on measuring “need states” or what a storytelling. Boil it down further and the word is sharing. Shared ta- restaurant absolutely needs to attract customers. Some need states bles. Shared plates. Shared technology. are universal, like value, affordability and appealing flavors. But a “They are indeed our future—the future for all restaurants,” says wide swath of research shows that while health considerations play a Rachel Phillips-Luther, vice president of marketing for Zoës Kitch- role in millennials’ dining choices, they are often secondary to the de- en, a chain of Mediterranean-inspired restaurants primarily in the sire to satisfy cravings. Another driving force, their laser-like interest South. “They will be our consumers tomorrow, so it’s best to under- in seeking deeply personal or unique fare. stand them now.” “Restaurants can win millennials over by reinventing themselves in small ways,” says Terri Henry, a consultant who has worked with United We Dine chains like the Daily Grill and O’s American Kitchen. “Introduce For restaurant owners fretting over the low incomes and high unem- unique cocktails. Not a martini but a caramel apple martini. Spice ployment rates among millennials, consider eating habits overseas. up your food a bit. Add some ethnic dishes. But above all, create Europe and China have a long history of young graduates moving something new, something different. Uniqueness will keep them back in with their families, and using restaurants as communal coming back.” gathering places. It’s to escape the pressures of home life and break Bernhard Mairinger, the 28-year-old chef at BierBeisl in Beverly bread, if not tacos, with friends and acquaintances. Hills, Calif., hit the target by giving returning customers off-the- Friends gather. Friends linger. Friends drink. All of which are menu bites in addition to his typical Austrian fare. potential assets to a restaurant’s bottom line. As a result, communal “I think millennials crave authenticity,” says Arlene Winnick, Bier- tables, happy-hour discounts and shared plates have become the Beisl spokeswoman. “We’re introducing them to the kind of experi- norm, along with customizable meals and unique beverage options, ence you’d only find in Europe. It’s unique, but it’s also very personal. which allow millennials to differentiate themselves within their There’s a relationship between the customer and chef, which keeps respective cliques. people coming back.” ILLUSTRATION BY ANDREW BANNECKER ILLUSTRATION

32 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 33 Tell Me a Story Ages 18-33 Equally important to millennials is a restaurant’s ability to clearly communicate its ethos, says Cliff Courtney, chief marketing officer of Zimmerman Advertising. “This is a generation that grew up watching ‘An Inconvenient Truth,’ a generation that saw the economy crash all around them,” Courtney says. “They’re interested in companies that care about their consumers, their community and their stakeholders.” Appealing, high- Carnivores outnumber vegetarians six to one, but 38 percent say they plan to eat He points to Firehouse Subs, which is making in- quality visuals on restaurant websites exclusively organic food in 10 years. roads across the country in part because of its rich are significantly more backstory. Founded by firefighters, the chain donates important to millennials some of its sales to help first-responders: firefighters than baby boomers. receive safety gear and newer equipment, precisely the kind of feel-good efforts that elicit repeat business. Initiatives that show a company’s commitment to the environment or using sound food sourcing strategies is also important. More likely to snack “For millennnials, value is not about finding the today than they did just cheapest price,” says Bonnie Riggs, a restaurant ana- two years ago, up to 48 lyst for the NPD Group. “They define value as quality percent in 2012 from 25 food, fresh ingredients and good-tasting options sold percent in 2010. at reasonable and affordable prices.” More than 50 percent consider Wi-Fi to be a The Digital Divide necessity at restaurants. If there’s a Golden Rule for digital platforms—the ultimate in sharing—it’s this: be honest and accom- For Attracting (& Retaining) Young Diners: modating, says Dennis Lombardi, the executive vice president of foodservice strategies for WD Partners. “I get asked all the time, ‘How do I deal with a neg- Install Wi-Fi Now that nearly 60 percent of millennials own a smartphone (and increasing ative review on Yelp or a negative post?’” Lombardi numbers tote around tablets), free Wi-Fi is expected. says. “You have to address the problem in a way that Eats at restaurants during wins over all third-party viewers of the conversation. Build a Better Snack Case off-peak hours twice as You have to say things like, ‘I’m looking into your Whether tailored to time-crunched millennial moms or young working profes- Households under often as non-millennials; 65 complaint from my side. Or why don’t you come in sionals, snack kiosks that offer portable meals drive traffic and lead to repeat age 35 account for percent likely to join friends again. Dinner is on me next time.’ If you don’t manage business. $24 out of every $100 or coworkers for meals. your online presence, someone else will.” spent in restaurants. Find a Symbol In 10 years, that share The only thing more off-putting to millennials By displaying symbolic ingredients (fresh vegetables or homemade jars of pasta will increase to $40 for than no digital presence is a disingenuous one. Any sauce) and telling your story through eye-catching displays, you’ll communicate every $100. initiative that feels pitched, gimmicky or inauthentic your brand quickly and unobtrusively. can do more harm than good. For La Coop: Bistro à Vins, a French-American hybrid bistro in Louisville, Encourage Employee Feedback Ky., integrating its menu with its online persona Whether through creating an online forum, printing paper questionnaires or involved creating a different French-inspired simply talking during evaluations, elicit ideas from millennial employees, who are likely keyed in to trends and tastes. hamburger every Thursday and posting enticing pictures and menu descriptions, along with Twitter Reward Your Regulars Eats out more often updates on the thinking behind each creation. No group uses or expects to be rewarded more for their loyalty than millennials. than non-millennials Gravitate toward easy-to-use loyalty programs, especially those that rely on (3.4 versus 2.8 “(Millennials) want information at their fingertips 29 percent of young adults smartphones rather than old-fashioned punch cards. times per week), (and) to know what brands are doing and why,” Mon- schlep back home to live with regardless of income nette says. “If they find a restaurant they believe in, Mom and Dad. Update Your Digital Toolbox or household something they like and appreciate—they’ll go out of Companies like new BrandAnalytics have created tools that allow restaurants to composition. n their way to support it.” monitor all comments made about their establishments across a wide spectrum of digital platforms. Peter Gianopulos is a Chicago-based food writer and an adjunct professor of journalism at Loyola University. SOURCES: WD PARTNERS; TECHNOMIC; BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS; ZIMMERMAN ADVERTISING’S SPECIALTY RESEARCH DIVISION; THE BOSTON CONSULTING GROUP; WAKEFIELD RESEARCH; THE PEW RESEARCH CENTER. GROUP; WAKEFIELD CONSULTING RESEARCH DIVISION; THE BOSTON ZIMMERMAN ADVERTISING’S SPECIALTY TECHNOMIC; BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS; SOURCES: WD PARTNERS;

34 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 35 BY KURT MICHAEL FRIESE PHOTO BY STEPHEN HAINES

FORMERLY A SOUS CHEF’S JOB, THE FAMILY MEAL IS NOW AN EQUAL OPPORTUNITY INSTRUCTOR

ADVERTISEMENT PAGE 36

Once the domain of the sous chef, the responsibility of staff meal is changing hands as line and prep cooks begin to take charge. After all, who else is going to feed all those hungry employees when the sous chef is swamped?

Cooks prepare comida at the Naked Oyster.

foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 37 FOOD FANATIC ROAD TRIP! Get a taste of local flavor

For more recipes, go to FOODFANATICS.COM THE HIGHLIGHTS * Amis or Osteria When a reservation is hard to come by or the wallet is too thin for Vetri, When I was an apprentice head to Marc Vetri’s Amis or Osteria for a visit in Colorado I learned a lot to Italy without leaving from making staff meals. Philadelphia. It’s good to pass that El Rey Don’t be fooled by the gritty knowledge on. appearance: this trendy Mexican --- Sous Chef Phil Niosi taqueria belongs to restaurateur Ste- Al Forno, Providence, R.I. phen Starr’s empire. Swing by during happy hour for salty margaritas and tacos on the cheap.

Hop Sing Laundromat This Chinatown speakeasy is worth the wait in the “holding area” and adhering to the rules (no photography or cell phones) for a seat in the city’s Chicken Landaise most exclusive cocktail bar. The Naked Oyster, Hyannis, Mass. Julien Swanson

SOUS CHEF PHIL NIOSI of Al Forno in Prov- giving cooks a chance to learn how to prepare 6 ounces bacon, chopped Pizza Brain 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, if needed Philadelphia idence, R.I. knows family meal is vital to the it and the front of house an opportunity to Grab a slice and take in the restaurant’s staff of 40 and rotates the respon- understand how to sell it. The staff meal also 8 chicken breasts As the birthplace of the Declaration of Independence, 1,000-piece collection of Salt and freshly ground pepper it seems only fitting that Philadelphia is experiencing a pizza memorabilia (noted in Ssibility to give everyone a chance. This keeps gives line cooks an opportunity to break away to taste food revolution. Guinness World Records). costs down, sharpens his line cooks’ mise en from the regular menu and throw in personal 4 ounces shallots, chopped Superstar restaurateur Stephen Starr laid the ground- place skills and forces them to budget their touches like sesame-crusted tuna with 2 ounces garlic, chopped *For more highlights, go to FOODFANATICS.COM time—abilities a good sous will always demand teriyaki glaze. ½ pound button mushrooms, work along with pioneers Susanna Foo and Georges Per- of a line crew. Hinterland Erie Street Gastropub in sliced button rier. Jose Garces launched his empire here, now seven TOM’S FINGERLING POTATO SALAD “They go overboard sometimes, which Milwaukee can’t serve a meal to its large 1 cup of dry white wine restaurants strong, as he marches toward global domina- 2 cups of heavy cream 2 ounces olive oil is nice,” he says, noting that the predomi- staff every day, so Sous Chef Paul Funk tion. There’s also the much revered Marc Vetri, who once 1 pound of haricots vert, blanched 1 ounce cider vinegar nantly Central American kitchen crew tends sets aside Mondays as pho night when the FOOD FANATIC reduced the seating to 35 in his already small eponymous 3 ounces balsamic vinegar restaurant to showcase his antique meat slicer. 1 tablespoon shallots, minced to prepare rice and beans, tacos and other Vietnamese noodle soup is already on the Tom Macrina is a Food Fanatic 1 tablespoon dijon mustard In a large skillet, cook bacon until crispy; drain. Last year, the City of Brotherly Love grabbed headlines simple dishes. menu as a special. in-training for US Foods. He 1 tablespoon tarragon, chopped Pound chicken breasts ½-inch thick and half Despite the occasional redundant menu, Funk sees prep of the weekly family meal lives in Philadelphia, enjoys for its impressive number of James Beard Foundation 1 teaspoon sugar lengthwise. Season with salt and pepper and saute time with family and has too award nominees—an acknowledgment representing only 1½ pound fingerling potatoes, cooked Niosi says the Al Forno staff would never as the perfect place for rookies to hone their chicken breast in batches until done, adding butter many culinary awards to list. a sliver of Philly’s tremendous talent. 4 strips bacon, chopped complain. “If they complain about it, they’ll craft. Plus, while crew members may not be as needed; keep warm. ¼ pound savoy cabbage lose it,” he says. And no one in the Al Forno the most forgiving audience, they’re also not Noodle shops are making a mark and the food truck scene is so big that Night Markets (a regular evening ½ pound spinach family wants to forfeit food. Aside from paying guests. Mistakes can be pointed out Sweat shallots and garlic, increase heat and add Food Fanatics undergo gathering of food trucks in a particular neighborhood) Whisk together olive oil, vinegar, shallots, mustard, the camaraderie, a well-fed team performs and lessons learned without the risk of disap- mushrooms and saute 2 minutes. Deglaze with rigorous culinary, tarragon and sugar. Toss with potatoes. Cook bacon better, Niosi says. pointing valuable clientele. n wine, cooking until mostly evaporated. Add cream communications and has entered its third year. You can’t toss a pint glass and reduce by half. Add green beans, heat through until almost crispy and add potatoes and cabbage. At the Naked Oyster in Hyannis, Mass., consulting training to without hitting hotspots in Reading Terminal Market, and add balsamic vinegar. Correct seasonings, re- help chefs and other Fishtown and Thirteenth Street. But don’t forget about Cook until potatoes are light caramel colored. Fold Sous Chef Julien Swanson uses staff meal Kurt Michael Friese is a chef, restaurateur and in spinach to wilt. turn chicken to pan to meld flavors, top with bacon foodservice professionals Philadelphia’s oldest food emporium: the Italian Market. as a teaching tool. A newly arrived fish, for author in Iowa City. His latest book is Chasing and serve with rice or mashed potatoes. Makes meet business goals. Season with salt and pepper. Makes two to example, becomes part of the staff meal, Chiles: Hot Spots Along the Pepper Trail. eight servings. Lastly, always make room for the city’s iconic chees- four servings. n ILLUSTRATION BY TIM MARRS ILLUSTRATION esteak and soft pretzels—then you can claim victory. 38 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 39 Watch Martin Yan break down a chicken CHEF in 18 seconds CHEF PROFILE PROFILE XXXX XXXXXX YAN CAN (STILL) Finds zen through clanging pots, pasta Bolognese COOK BY ADAM JABLONOWSKI Master Chef Martin Yan can Intro copy here In fact, he recently made his way way that you like,” he says. “So, al- school any young gun back to the kitchen with M.Y. Chi- ways be prepared, be patient and na, his latest Chinese restaurant look at the bright side.” BY CARLY FISHER that opened in December. One of his most recent chal- Located in San Francisco, the lenges involved capturing the restaurant is the latest incarnation current scene abroad—hand- of Yan’s ever-evolving career. “You pulled noodles, dim sum and Body copy here Mention Martin Yan to any chef and you’re can always reinvent yourself—it’s wok-fired entrées—and training neverending,” says Yan, whose a foreign staff to adapt to Amer- likely to hear this common refrain: 18 seconds. other restaurants include Yan Can ican cultural norms. As a man of That’s the mind-blowing time it takes him to Asian Bistro and the former Sen- the camera, Yan wanted his new sAsian. “As long as I keep a sense restaurant to feature an open debone a whole chicken, a task made famous of curiosity and passion and follow kitchen for presentation. Most on his longtime PBS show Yan Can Cook. my instinct, this is how you sustain Chinese restaurants stay away Though he estimates performing the yourself in any profession.” from an open kitchen concept, he Yan’s television career began in says, and have their wok stations shtick roughly 50,000 times in his 34-year 1979, a time when only two other facing a wall. Quote here career (sometimes three times per day), it’s cooking programs were on the “When you face the wall, you air: Graham Kerr’s The Galloping never have to look happy or Techniques a hardly the first thing he would impart to a Gourmet and Julia Child’s The smile,” he says. “Here, you have culinary student. French Chef. As celebrity chefs to look like you enjoy your work. Master Chef proliferated, Yan’s persona and The body language of wok cooking “ “Listen, no one needs to debone a chicken Would Master brand evolved, from using enter- with the flame is just like watching If your sights are set on in 18 seconds,” Yan says. “It doesn’t matter if tainment to expose Americans to fireworks, so if you do not have an stardom, conquer Yan’s it’s 35 seconds or a minute and a half. It’s just Chinese cuisine to a more seri- open kitchen, you’re really losing list of must-have skills: ous investigation of authenticity the excitement.” entertainment.” through travel. Surprisingly, he’s But what Yan wants, Yan 1. Know how to prepare a good managed to do it all without the gets. So much so that even a six- stock, which is essential to any Entertainment is only a slice of Yan’s type of cuisine. legendary career. Working his way through aid of a PR machine. “I never pur- month construction setback and posefully, systematically build a logistical issues couldn’t stop 2. Hone your professional knife apprenticeships from age 13, he rose to fame brand,” Yan says. “I just do it and him from opening his dream skills. It does not matter what as a master chef and educator. Yan has rolled have fun. There’s more freedom to restaurant. Though he has kind of meal you’re preparing do what I want to do.” faced challenges with every new (simple or complex)—good knife with—and mastered—every punch the industry He maintains firm control of venture—whether it’s becoming a skills are important. his ventures and argues the free- television chef, author, educator has thrown. Consider his accolades: nearly 3. Have a good understanding 3,500 television appearances, 30 cookbooks, a dom lets him guide his own path. or restaurateur—he says the key of the science behind cooking. By handling his own affairs, he is to his success was remaining Don’t try to be Bobby Flay, Emeril or Rachael Ray. handful of restaurants and product lines, and more confident about the chal- true to himself and his vision. He 4. Become familiar with and There’s only one (of them) so be yourself. the development of The Martin Yan Culinary lenges as they come. “What I’ve advises young chefs to not copy have an appreciation for the learned since getting involved personalities, but to find their various ethnic ingredients and Arts Center in Shenzhen, China. Now 64, he cuisines from around the world. with this business is that often- own strengths, act from their gut shows no signs of slowing down. times things don’t turn out the and create their own brand. 5. Always keep your passion, PHOTO COURTESY OF CREATIVE MINT COURTESY OF CREATIVE PHOTO creativity and love of good food.

40 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 41 CHEF CHEF CHEF PROFILE PROFILE PROFILE

CHEF PROFILE IT’S ALL Fact: Fact ADRIANA LÓPEZ ABOUT ME Started cooking at age 12 (chicken VERMUT ’n dumplings in the pressure cooker Bringing two cultures together in a without permission). Attended Johnson sandwich & Wales University, Charleston, S.C. Past stints include Ford’s Colony in Williamsburg, Va., and other fine dining If Venezuelan-born Adriana López Vermut has spots and sous chef at Virginia Tech, her way, Americans across the country will soon IT’S ALL ABOUT ME nationally lauded for dining services. regard her native arepas as one of the many ways Recognized as Chef of the Year by the to enjoy a sandwich. Acquired her love of cooking from her American Culinary Federation-Central López Vermut is making inroads in California, dad, Leopoldo López Gil, a Caracas Missouri chapter. recently opening her third Pica Pica Maize chef who is also her business partner. Kitchen, a family-owned, casual concept ERIC featuring Venezuelan arepas, grilled corn pockets Studied ant hropology at t he Universit y filled with ingredients ranging from shredded of Pennsylvania. Worked as a research CARTWRIGHT beef, black beans and plantains to grilled chicken, analyst for a venture capit al firm, t hen Most important lesson that’s avocado, queso fresco and guasacaca sauce. answered the culinary entrepreneurial The learning never ends—and that’s He oversees 20 campus out- stuck with you? No matter how “Our first menu was presented in a very Venezue- lets, allowing him to experiment many times you make a recipe, just the way he likes it always taste it. calling to open t he first Pica Pica. with flavors and cuisines for the lan manner,” says López Vermut about the original university’s 35,000 students. What kind of beer do you drink? Pica Pica in Napa, Calif., which she opened in 2008, Three“ kids. “They have a growing appreci- Corona in the bottle, Newcastle and the second outpost she inaugurated in San ation and higher level of expec- Brown Ale on tap. tation for food,” he says. “When Francisco’s Mission District in 2010. you have a customer base like How many burn marks do you For Eric Cartwright, the best possible gig shares “But Californians wanted to ‘build their own,’ Most important lesson that’s that, it’s very rewarding. You’re have? I quit counting burns years his level of passion and provides opportunities ago! so we decided to go with the flow,” she says. “We stuck with you? Learning to be always learning, too.” patient. to practice it. He met his match at the Universi- There are often surprises, Thomas Keller or Tom Colicchio? even created our own dipping sauces, which ev- ty of Missouri in Columbia, Mo., where he’s the like the kimchee fried rice that Thomas Keller. eryone kept asking for, though these do not exist What kind of beer do you drink? he wasn’t sure about but the It’s an exciting time. Pilsners, hoppy ales, dark stouts, executive chef. kids loved. “We do a spicy tofu Longest shift you ever pulled? in Venezuela.” craft beers. noodle dish that we thought we 28 hours working for a catering “As much as I love restaurants, you’re really The opening of the latest location in San Fran- We can’t wait to see How many burn marks do you would make a few servings [of], company. committed to a singular concept,” he says. “You cisco’s Castro District reflects changes that come have? Seven but now we can’t keep up with Worst thing anyone has ever where we go next. don’t have the flexibility to do what we can do.” [the demand],” Cartwright says. called you? You ignorant punk— with introspection and reaching common ground. Thomas Keller or Tom Colicchio? A year into his current post, the university’s The key is not to worry too by a salesman who wanted my Nachos Pica Pica (taro chips and pulled pork), more Thomas Keller. much whether a dish is healthy business. dining services won an Ivy Award, an industry or vegetarian-friendly. “We fo- salads and dinner platters are now on the menu. Worst thing anyone has ever cus on deliciousness and high Your ideal vacation? Sailing in a called you? Unauthentic. accolade for culinary excellence. And eight small yacht in the Caribbean eating “It’s an exciting time,” López Vermut says. “We quality,” he says. “When we do years later, Cartwright is still feeling it. fresh seafood. There is no feeling can’t wait to see where we go next.” Longest shift you ever pulled? that, it works.” like that of the open sea. I haven’t stopped yet!

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IN THE QUEST to be the Next Big Thing, wannabe restaurateurs describe the ideal concept as, “You know, like Chipotle.” Burritos aside, what they’re really envi- sioning is a fast casual concept with a simple menu and fresh, high-quality food at a low price that can be stamped out on every street corner in America. They have good reason for wanting to be in the league of Chipotle Mexican Grill, the most successful fast casual concept in the country.

Though no longer killing it like it did in the past decade, fast casual remains the industry’s best performing and most influential segment. It’s grown by 11 percent over the past Fast casual concepts continue to lead the industry five years, compared with a 1.4 percent increase for tradi- despite competition from other segments. Here’s There will certainly be some tional fast-feeders and a 0.5 percent decrease for full-service restaurants, according to Technomic, which tracks restau- the secret to their success trading (of sales)in some rant sales and unit growth. Today, roughly 14,000 fast-casual of these concepts and, as outposts dot the U.S. landscape, says foodservice research BY DAVID FARKAS firm, The NPD Group. a result, sales volumes will “A big reason for this is that the fast casual is smaller and gaining popularity and stealing share,” says Technomic’s decline. But overall, fast Darren Tristano, who estimates sales for all fast casual casual is still outpacing the restaurants reached $28 billion in 2012, still only a small portion of the $205 billion racked up by limited service rest of the industry. restaurants for the same year. — Technomic’s Darren Tristano Yet rapid growth—much of it from copycats—is becoming difficult to maintain, notably in the $3 billion “better burger” category dominated by 1,100-unit Five Guys Burgers and Fries and 200-unit Smashburger. These chains and their smaller rivals—Mooyah Burgers, Fries and Shakes, The Habit Burger Grill and Umami Burger—are already beginning to steal share from one another. “There will certainly be some trading [of sales] in some of these concepts and, as a result, sales volumes will decline,” Tristano adds. “But overall, fast casual is still outpacing the rest of the industry.”

46 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 47 FORK OVER THE FRANKLINS: 1. Dig into your own wallet and tap family, friends and angel investors. “The first one For more on 3 METHODS TO CONSIDER is the hardest,” says Gary Levy of New fast casuals, For those thinking of joining the fray of fast casual York-based CohnReznick. “If it is a grand- download the iPad concepts, consider that the first order of business— slam, capital for the second one should app on iTunes. funding your growth—isn’t easy anymore. come easier.” Rapid expansion is no longer likely. Strategic buy- 2. Eating is believing. Bruxie Gourmet Waffle Sandwiches in Southern California secured ers—i.e., large restaurant chains—aren’t snapping up its second round of financing after private small players like they once did (McDonald’s funding investors got a taste of the menu and Chipotle from 15 units to 500, for example). Instead, brought in additional investors. THERE’S NO many traditional fast-feeders are giving their own 3. Demonstrate scalability through systems to measure sales and earnings. That’s what restaurants a fast casual spin. Rehabbed Wendy’s and The assembly line model at ShopHouse. Taco Bell units, for instance, now bear a striking re- clinched the deal for five-unit Mendocino WAFFLING semblance to Chipotle. Casual dining restaurants like Farms, a Los Angeles-based gourmet sandwich shop that received a capital WHEN IT COMES TO THESE Red Robin and Famous Dave’s are also jumping into investment from Catterton Partners last the fray, experimenting or creating fast casual spinoffs. summer, and eight-unit Burger Lounge, a THE CHEF ON SHOPHOUSE: SANDWICHES That said, the money hurdle can be jumped. Con- San Diego-based concept that’s expanded REDEFINING FAST FOOD with backing from KarpReilly. sider the following: When Denver-based Chipotle Mexican Grill launched its first ShopHouse Southeast Asian Kitchen in the fall of 2011 in Washington D.C., trend watchers wondered whether this concept would rocket into the stratosphere of success, They might say, ‘Look, Fast Takes too. Second and third units will soon open in the nation’s capitol and in Santa Monica, Calif. Like Chipotle, ShopHouse these guys are cooking WHAT’S MOST IMPORTANT TO DINERS WHEN IT COMES TO CHOOSING A FAST CASUAL OR FAST features the assembly line model, allowing for customization FOOD RESTAURANT? of meals inspired by the cuisines of Thailand, Vietnam and real food.’ We can’t Necessity is the mother of wacky inventions, like Malaysia. Culinary Manager Nate Appleman, a James Beard pretend we’re not a fast Bruxie Gourmet Waffle Sandwiches, a four-unit High quality, fresh food Award-winning chef, offers insight for cooking up success. concept that’s generating more than $8 million a 49% food restaurant because year. But bringing the typically sweet breakfast FF: What have you have learned in the first unit about treat into the sandwich sphere wasn’t an easy sell. 66% kitchen layout and equipment placement? we are. But we are Owner Dean Simon wanted a return on the money Low price NA: We treated this restaurant like an independent. We he had poured into a waffle-mix company. Trouble 43% were given a very tight budget and told you have to make it redefining fast food. work within these confines. Being up against the wall some- was, nearly every chain operator he approached 31% — Culinary Manager saw waffles as a breakfast item—and passed. times defines the structure of the way you do business. Nate Appleman Undeterred, Simon tapped family, friends and Food prepared or served quickly business partner Chef Kelly Mullarney to help 35% What are you most proud of doing? raise $400,000 to launch the first Bruxie in a 23% Find a focus—the We have taken a really complex cuisine, where the flavors 420-square-foot former burger-and-ice-cream bandwidth of range from sweet and sour to very spicy and bitter, and Healthy options stand in Old Towne Orange, Calif. His rationale: flavor profiles is made it very simple to execute without losing its integrity. Americans want an unconventional sandwich, 25% narrowing. even if they don’t know it yet. 27% How did you do that? When Bruxie opened in the fall of 2010, I have been cooking for 20 years and drew on my experi- the fast casual concept generated enormous Fast Food Fast Causal ence. We have made dishes that taste great. How we did FOUR POINTS FOR CARVING OUT A CONCEPT publicity for its fresh take on the standard Source: Technomic., based on 728 (fast food) and 772 (fast casual) consumers ages that, specifically, is a very in-depth conversation. sandwich. Unorthodox ingredients found a home 18 and over who visit these types of restaurants once a month. next to standard, and diners could try anything Ok, but long did it take you to figure out execution, What does it take to pull off a successful fast casual concept? from short ribs and prosciutto to smoked salmon flavor, etc.? and buttermilk fried chicken folded into freshly WHO’S GOING WHERE? From inception of the idea to opening, maybe nine months A platform with a grounded flavor profile A defined cuisine. The bandwidth of flavor made Belgian-style waffles. to a year. 1and consistent execution. 3profiles is narrowing, according to Tech- “Ambassadors” are stationed near order nomic’s Darren Tristano. “A lot more regional windows to explain the unique sandwiches to AGE GROUPS <18 18-34 35-49 50-64 65+ What advice would you give chefs who want to do Proper equipment. “Select equipment Asian—Indian, Thai and Korean—will emerge,” long lines of customers shelling out about $10 something similar with complex cuisine? 2that emphasizes flavor,” advises Consulting he predicts, citing Bibigo, a Korean fast casual It took another nine months to figure it out after we started for a sandwich and proprietary soft drink (made QSR* -2% -3% -2% +5% +6% Chef Andrew Hunter, former vice president in Los Angeles. with cane sugar). doing it. So I would say shorten time on the front end. You of culinary development for Wolfgang Puck A year later, Bruxie scored on Yelp as the FAST CASUAL +5% +4% +5% +11% +12% don’t know what you have or how it will flow until you have Worldwide. Know your audience. Baby boomers second-highest rated restaurant in the country. It to put it in front of people. A rotisserie, for example, to caramelize 4 accounted for 23 percent of visits to also rang up more than $2 million in annual sales. CASUAL DINING -2% -5% -3% +1% +3% meats and vegetables. “The thing I like about fast casual restaurants between 2007 and “The first location exceeded all expectations,” What might another chef admire by just moving it is that chicken or salmon can be the canvas 2012, says the NPD Group. On the flip side, says Simon, who expects to bring the number FINE DINING -4% -6% -4% NC +1% through ShopHouse’s line? on which you might use a smoky barbecue millennials made up just 9 percent. of locations to at least six in southern California They might say, ‘Look, these guys are cooking real food.’ We sauce for a Southern take, tandoori spices for this year. *Quick service restaurant can’t pretend we’re not a fast food restaurant because we Indian or rosemary and garlic for a Califor- David Farkas is a Cleveland-based freelance writer Source: The NPD Group, year ending 2012 vs. 2007. are. But we are redefining fast food. PHOTOS COURTESY OF BRUXIE GOURMET WAFFLE SANDWICHES; SHOPHOUSE SANDWICHES; WAFFLE COURTESY OF BRUXIE GOURMET PHOTOS nia-style dish,” he says. who has been on the chain gang for more than 15 years.

48 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 49 GIVE A LITTLE, GET

10 Cost-saving measures operators can start now

BY JENNIFER OLVERA

RUNNING A RESTAURANT COSTS BIG BUCKS. Doing it well? That’s another beast entirely. With the economy still on the mend, many restaurants large and small are struggling to maintain quality while minimizing costs. To maximize the positives, restaurants can take small steps to reduce costs without compromising the customer experience. Make these tips your mantra for navigating the months ahead:

1. Go the distance. Follow the example of Eben Copple, executive chef at Yardley Inn Restaurant & Bar in Yardley, Pa., to ensure the best prices. Copple was paying $4 per pound for heirloom tomatoes until he did some extra legwork and got them for $1 per pound.

2. Ask purveyors about specials. Everyone wants to move inventory so check for deals. Also take advantage of lower pricing that accompanies produce surges during the growing season. ILLUSTRATION BY HENRY OBASI ILLUSTRATION

foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 51

FF_Issue2_2013_PAGES_30-64.indd 50 4/16/13 11:24 AM 3. Offer online ordering. This method gives customers more time to peruse menus and results in larger sales—an average of 12 to 20 percent, says Jared Follow the blueprint to savings 4 Shimoff, senior director of NetWaiter in For more cost cutters, Redlands, Calif. It can also lead customers go to to order more frequently. FOODFANATICS.COM 4. Be flexible. Marty Cattaneo, chef at Dio Deka in Los Gatos, Calif., scored zucchini for $1.25 per pound at the height of the season. But when unexpected chilly weath- er set in and affected the crop, the price rose nearly 600 percent. Instead of losing money, he removed dishes with zucchini from the menu.

5. Rethink waste disposal. White Castle tested a food scrap diversion program and found ways to cut garbage disposal costs by composting and donating unused burger buns. Some of the test units eliminated one weekly $130 waste haul per month.

3 6. Manage the walk-in. Be vigilant about labeling and rotating ingredients with a daily inventory of the walk-in. If cooks aren’t 2 dating products properly and ingredients spoil, you’re essentially throwing money in the trash.

7. Be judicious with linens. Cleaning costs can be reduced by ensuring that cooks 10 and servers are maximizing use of towels before tossing them in the laundry.

5 8. Keep an eye on prep. Your line may be solid, but it pays to regularly check in on cooks to ensure that they are scraping the last bit of sauce from a bowl or butchering meat with the least amount of waste.

9. Stand guard. April Adams, general manager of Anchorage Café in Louisville, 9 7 Ky., scrutinizes and signs for all deliveries herself, just in case a Napa Valley Cabernet 1 Sauvignon arrives instead of the high-end, single vineyard cab she originally ordered. Always check in high-end and perishable products, and don’t hesitate to send back anything that doesn’t meet your standards.

10. Reduce liquor liability. Proper alcohol training and I.D. scanning equipment can 8 save money upfront—and down the line. Jared Kaplan, senior vice president of products at insureon, estimates that training reduces liquor liability costs by 15 to 20 6 percent. Purchasing a digital I.D. scanner can up the savings another five percent. I.D. scanners can also help avoid fines or loss of your liquor license for selling alcohol to underage customers.

Jennifer Olvera covers food, travel and dining, writing for the Chicago Tribune, Los Angeles Times, Orbitz.com and others.

52 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 53 BEYOND THE PLATE

Playing with Texture and Levels Thea Pizzeria & Cafe, Miami 1,800 square feet, 38 seats MALL RESTAURANTS ARE Ditching the Bulky Bar Design solutions that make you rethink whether size really matters BY KELLY AIGLON What could have been seen as a prohib- learning to get a lot of mileage out of a Sophia’s, Philadelphia itively long and narrow space turned out 1,125 square feet, 70 seats to be anything but in the hands of Thea few square feet. To create more room in the small, historic Goldman. The owner played with levels to space (a converted house with a sec- add depth, hanging gold pendant lights “Every night is like a ballet,” says Mike ond-floor kitchen), Chef-owner Christopher from the 23-foot ceiling and installing a Pierce, co-owner of Maverick, San Lee put the bar on a diet, narrowing a silk pewter curtain that sweeps from the deep, cumbersome 25-inch bar to 20 inch- ceiling to floor. “It all gave the room better Francisco’s 35-seat Mission District es and curving it into an arch. The space proportion,” Goldman says. Using various spot. “Because we don’t have much savings and new stools allowed for up to textures helped, too. Black wood, marble five more seats.“The new stools are smaller, and leather mingle with the real show- space, we have to know where each won’t have backs and will swivel,” brand stopper: a 30-square-foot, 210,000-piece, other is, and plan how we stand and consultant Dana Spain says, adding that the Italian-made glass mosaic of flowers. move. It helps us turn 120 seats a night change also makes the space more social. Make Lighting Double as Art on weekends.” Putting Goods Overhead Maverick, San Francisco RedFarm, New York City 1,000 square feet, 35-40 seats A Baryshnikov-like attention to flow 1,300 square feet, 44 seats Space constraints led the regional Taking a cue from the farm-to-table menu American restaurant to forgo a host stand is one thing. A stunning set is another. at the modern Chinese restaurant, Man- in lieu of a touch screen attached to a For restaurants, that means inno- hattan’s Crème Design channels a pastoral slender wooden pole for OpenTable res- aesthetic with communal tables, custom ervations. But the biggest design idea is vative design that grabs the eye and rustic wood built-ins and gingham fabric on the walls: an art installation made from enhances operations. These crafty banquettes. Unlike rambling country farm- repurposed speaker boxes that resem- houses, the restaurant is tiny. To maximize bles a U.S. map and doubles as ambient solutions have allowed restaurants to space, Crème installed pipes above tables lighting. Keeping with the uncluttered do big things with small spaces. from which menus, containers of chop- flow, the artist, Trey Gerfers, also crafted sticks, plants and lighting fixtures hang. wall sconces from speaker boxes. Kelly Aiglon is a Chicago-based freelance editor. She writes for DailyCandy, the Chicago Tribune and AAA Living, and offers web content consulting for lifestyle companies. Creating One Aisle Medi, Arlington, Va. 1,400 square feet, 40 seats Griz Dwight of GrizForm Design Architects transformed a former boutique into a Mediterranean quick-serve with limited seating. Controlling customer circulation presented a challenge, which Dwight met by creating a single walking corridor–or “spine”–along one side of the room, with the back exit, bathrooms and service counter extending from it. “We needed to let people know where to go and move in one clear direction for everything to work efficiently,” Dwight says.

54 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 55 iHELP Be efficient and tech savvy at the same time

LT Burger, Laurent Touron- cializing in Japanese pub food in del’s ode to fancy burgers and San Francisco, celebrated New indulgent milkshakes, uses Year’s Eve by hosting a special PAY-IN-ADVANCE OPTIONS VenueBook to automate reser- Kaiseki 12-course dinner with vations for groups of 15 or more the help of SeatMe, an online people. But the software also reservation program. The meal provides leads that can be used (from $83 to $145) required a to improve service and help $50 prepayment to reserve a VenueBook (venuebook.com) with marketing. Diners can in- seat, which was deducted from Functions: Books venues, creates dicate their preferences during the final bill or forfeited if the menus and contracts and accepts the sign-in process, which can party turned out to be a no-show. SeatMe (seatme.com) payment for group parties. Not be used to personalize their ex- “We wanted to make New Functions: Accepts standard compatible with other reservations daily reservations in addition to systems. perience and tailor promotions. Year’s special and we wanted to reservations and payment for Fees: $149 a month for software, Since opening in September order perfectly what we need- special seatings or events. System plus booking fee of 7.5 percent of 2012, LT Burger has been ed,” says Greg Dunmore, Nojo’s can also manage floor traffic and final bills that originate from the booking about 15 large parties chef-owner. track wait lists. VenueBook site. monthly with the help of the Dunmore promoted the event Fees: 30-day free trial then $99 a Payment: Two to three days after software. About 10 percent of using social media, the restau- month for software, plus 3 percent deposit and final payment are made credit card processing fee for by customer. those customers come directly rant’s menu and emails to sub- prepaid reservations. Background: Operates exclusively through the VenueBook site. scribing customers. The 45-seat Payment: Weekly. in New York since launching in the “The leads are just another way restaurant, which also uses Background: Launched in fall of 2012; expanding to Chicago, to get our name out there and SeatMe to automate daily reser- San Francisco in 2011; global San Francisco and Los Angeles. my guess is as they (VenueBook) vations with a credit card hold, capabilities. Best for: Restaurants with private become a bigger name, this will sold out. Only two customers Pay Now, Eat Later Best for: Restaurants of any size event space or those that can only increase,” Bender says. were no-shows. with table service. accommodate large groups. But it takes major restaurant While purchasing tickets on- Online reservation tools can do more buzz to use prepaid ticketing sys- line is less personal than speak- than book a table tems exclusively. ing to someone over the phone, “The restaurants that can make the trade-off is convenience, says BY MONICA GINSBURG it work on just a prepaid reserva- Greg York, owner of Rustic Road tions basis are very few and far Brewing Company, a small-batch between,” says Clark Wolf, pres- brewery in Kenosha, Wis. Brown Paper Tickets ident of Clark Wolf Company, a “It’s a very easy method to Big groups have a leg up on easy- From underground dining (brownpapertickets.com) New York- and Sonoma County, get our customers to commit to to-seat two-tops and other small clubs to restaurants hosting spe- Functions: Creates event web Eventbrite (eventbrite.com) Calif.-based restaurant consul- an event,” says York, who hosts pages, event registration, sells tick- parties at LT Burger in New York’s cial menus or events, the food Functions: Creates event web tancy. “The expectations are get- beer brewing classes throughout ets and collects payment. Provides pages, promotes events, sells Midtown. With a few clicks, they and beverage industry is discov- ting higher and higher for diners the year and uses the Eventbrite ering that prepaid reservation 24-hour live customer support tickets and collects payment. Users can complete a reservation, choose English, Spanish and French. purchasing those tickets.” platform to automate ticket systems are good for more than can email personalized invitations their food and pay for it in advance Fees: Free to event producers. to their contact lists and promote Other drawbacks to the pre- sales. He promotes the classes online. Easy for the customer; securing a table. 3.5 percent of ticket price plus 99 through social media. paid process: restaurants need with internal marketing, the even better for the restaurant. Depending on the platform, cents per ticket for ticket buyers, Fees: 2.5 percent of ticket price to promote themselves to drive restaurant’s blog and website. includes credit card process- “It takes a big administrative online tools can be a one-stop plus 99 cents per ticket ($9.95 customers to online reservation “Once our events begin, it’s ing fees. Restaurants using their headache off our plates and shop for selling tickets, auto- cap), plus standard credit card sites. And software and ticket- a very personal experience,” mating reservations, contract- merchant or PayPal account as the processing fees. keeps the correct information credit card processor receive a ing fees cut into profit margins, he says, “so I don’t worry too ing events and selecting menus, Payment: Five days after the event. flowing to the client and to the rebate (2.5 percent of ticket price). Background: San Francisco-based which already may be tight. much about the front-end all the way down to deposits and right people internally,” says Payment: Immediate payment to since 2006; global capabilities. But some small restaurants transaction.” n Aimee Bender, event planner final payments. Many restau- restaurants using their own mer- Best for: Anyone who wants to have found a fit with ticketing rants find that prepayment re- chant or PayPal account. Otherwise, promote and sell tickets to an at 144-seat LT Burger. “We’re systems that help them promote, An online 10 days after the event. a very busy establishment and quirements decrease no-shows event. and sell out, big dining holidays Monica Ginsburg is a business reservation and late cancellations, which Background: Seattle-based since tool helps Nojo we need to be able to service our 2000; global capabilities. and special events like cooking writer, who writes for a variety with selling out help improve budgeting, pur- special events. larger groups the same way we Best for: Anyone who wants to classes or tasting menus. of publications including Crain’s chasing and staffing. service our smaller ones.” promote and sell tickets to an event. Nojo, a California izakaya, spe- Chicago Business. ILLUSTRATION BY JOHN HOLCROFT ILLUSTRATION

56 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 57 Seasoned advice for the front and back DEAR FOOD FANATIC of the house

My sous chef recently told me he’d rather expedite because he doesn’t think he needs Qto cook anymore (he’s 24). I nearly choked on my coffee. Is he salvageable?

TELL HIM TO SEE “JIRO DREAMS OF SUSHI” to get an idea of how long it takes to hone a craft. If the kid is talented, call a few of your chef friends and arrange for A a stage or two to let someone else slap him around. Everyone loves free labor, and your upstart may get the picture if it’s coming from someone else.

Q. I just started a new gig and inherited some Q. I’m debating what to do with our outdoor patio serious losers—servers who refuse to help with besides putting out the tables and chairs. Gardening side work, show up late and have bad attitudes. isn’t me, so I’m thinking of ditching the flower thing The owner says to just deal with it. Any ideas? entirely. A. Aside from whaling on every one of them, your A. Let’s just say you don’t know what you’re missing best bet is to keep good records of bad behavior, until it’s gone. Greenery can soften spaces and flowers either through emails or written notes, detailing the add a splash of color that makes the space more inviting. infraction and its date. You can also mess with their If nothing else, flower boxes with herbs can do double hours by cutting them back—slowly at first. When the duty in the patio and the kitchen. Ask if anyone on staff hours become insignificant, the bad apples just might has a green thumb and assign them the task of oversee- go away on their own. ing the patio landscape, from choosing the greenery to FOOD FANATIC caring for it. You might be surprised how rewarding it Paul Sturkey is a Food Q. We have a lot of success running promotions may be for that person—and you. Fanatic in-training for US for holidays like Mother’s Day, so we’re thinking of Foods. He has a passion doing more but aren’t sure which ones would be Q. We’ve been getting complaints about the for food, wine, travel, as good. Ideas? cleanliness of our bathrooms. They’re cleaned regu- and his family A. Depends on your restaurant. If you’re a bar and larly. Not sure what else to do. grill, celebrating National Chicken Wing Day with A. I hope “regularly” means before and after each shift. lower priced wings could net a good turnout. As a It doesn’t take much for a bathroom to get trashed. Set Food Fanatics undergo general rule of thumb, it’s best to avoid cashing in on up a schedule and make sure that the person in charge rigorous culinary, somber memorial holidays like Martin Luther King Jr. of keeping the restroom neat notes the time and initials communications and Day or Veterans Day. Google “wacky holidays” and it after each cleaning. Check the bathrooms a few times consulting training to you’ll find plenty of possibilities. Make sure it makes during each shift. Diners will judge you on the bathroom help chefs and other sense for your operation and promote it several so it’s worth the effort. Small measures such as a higher foodservice professionals weeks in advance through in-house marketing and quality tissue or hand lotion can leave meet business goals. social media. a lasting impression. n

Got a question for the Food Fanatic? Email challenges, comments and suggestions to [email protected]

foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 59 I’LL DRINK TO THAT! Bartenders will add liquor to any Booty Collins liquid given half the chance, so it Beverage Director Tad Carducci shouldn’t come as a surprise that The Tippler, New York For more drink tea cocktails are the latest darling 2 ounces green tea-infused vodka, recipe below recipes, go to of the drink menu. But creating 1 ounce passion fruit puree FOODFANATICS.COM 1 ounce lemon juice a great tea cocktail doesn’t mean 1 ounce agave nectar just tossing anything together. It Pinch cayenne powder 10 drops yohimbe extract* turns out, there’s a method (or Club soda two) to the madness. Orange slice Infusing is hardly a new tech- Brandied cherries nique, but bartenders are discov- Shake all ingredients except club soda and fruit and strain over ice in a tall glass. Top with soda ering more nuanced flavors from and stir. Garnish with an orange slice and brandied steeping tea directly into a spirit. cherries. Makes one serving.

In fact, some bartenders won’t Green tea-infused vodka: combine 8 tea bags make tea cocktails any other way. with 1 liter of vodka and steep for 45 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve and keep sealed in a “There is just so much water in tea that it cool, dark place. might dilute the liquor,” says Ryan Qualls, bar- tender at Neat in Glendale, Calif. The general *Available in health food stores or online. rule of thumb is about three tea bags for one 750 ml bottle, steeped for 45 minutes. “Tea is very sensitive,” Qualls says. “The longer you steep it, the more bitter it gets. We want it light—just a hint.” Tea-infused spirits make sense on the busi- You have to have people behind the bar who ness side as well, particularly for highlighting low-end liquors, says Amanda Gunderson, bar- understand different flavors and components, tender at La Dolce Vita in Beverly Hills, Calif. A well rum, for example, might get more mileage It’s not just serving a rum and Coke. with a peach tea infusion. Tea can also be used to elevate well-known — Vanessa Kemling of Bigfoot cocktails, such as the Green Tea Mojito created Aidan Demarest, owner of Neat, says to be wary of green or earthy teas, by Tad Carducci, partner and beverage director which can end up tasting like “dirt drinks.” Blending two teas can boost the for New York bar, the Tippler. “The trick is to use flavor profile; however, marrying similar profiles can muddle the flavor of the highest quality teas and blends that you can both. And these cocktails aren’t always for the faint of heart—be wary of a tea’s afford,” he says. For his green tea-based cocktail, caffeine content before blending to avoid a fight in the glass with everyone’s Booty Collins, Carducci sources gunpowder favorite sleep aid. IN SPIRIT tea from artisanal providers like McNulty’s in Mixologist Vanessa Kemling at Bigfoot West in Venice, Calif., builds her When tea and spirits hook up, good things can happen Manhattan’s West Village or Chicago-based spirit from “softer spirits” like vodka or gin so it won’t dampen the flavor of the Rare Tea Cellar. tea like a tequila might. That’s why Qualls chooses to infuse a neutral-tasting BY KIRK PYNCHON The non-infused route is another viable op- vodka with a stronger flavored cardamom tea. Complementary bases, such as tion, as proven by the longevity of Hot Toddies a sweet bourbon and Chai tea, can also be a match made in heaven. (hot tea, whiskey, honey, lemon). Mixologist Tea cocktails benefit the most on specialty menus tailored to adventurous Rob Floyd likes to blend chilled Earl Grey tea tipplers, but the trend is growing mainstream. “I think tea cocktails do have and London Dry gin with a splash of lemon and the ability to become the next big thing,” Floyd says. “In a way they already sugar for his Royal Tea Gin Cocktail at The Ba- are—think of the Arnold Palmer. You can already add a spirit to that.” zaar by José Andrés in Beverly Hills, Calif. Tea cocktails offer the versatility and creativity to pair with food or enhance Infused or not, striking the right balance a brunch cocktail list. The trick seems to be easing customers into the idea and comes down to personal preference. Though getting them comfortable. the spirit is the moneymaker, tea elevates “It’s like introducing people to sushi,” Kemling says. “You start off with a the taste. “It’s really easy to go with fruit tea California Roll and then you move on to more adventurous rolls.” n because bartenders are so used to working with citrus,” Gunderson says. Kirk Pynchon is a cocktail writer for the lifestyle website Societe Perrier.

60 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013 foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 61 PR MACHINE Sharp ideas to get butts in seats Pull the Trigger on Instagram Diners are happy to shoot your food just because they can

BY JONATHAN SIDENER

Talk about a perfect storm: the smartphone’s ability to take quality photos and the public’s expanding appetite for sharing their lives plate by plate. In this brave new world of “see what I just ate,” engaging in online photo sharing is part and parcel of a restaurant’s public relations package. It’s time to say hello to Instagram—the primary web tool for talking about food. If you’re not convinced this app has legs to stand on, the numbers speak for themselves. At press time, Instagram showed 3.2 million photos tagged “pizza,” 39.3 million tagged “food,” and 9.2 million tagged “chocolate.” You don’t want to be the only dope on the block not taking advantage of such a resource. Moving beyond its iPhone-only roots, Instagram has expanded to the equally popular Android platform after being acquired by Facebook for $1 billion last year. And its seamless integration with loca- IF NO ONE TAKES PHOTOS, CAN WE JUST CREATE FAKE ACCOUNTS AND tion-based social network Foursquare poses it to be- MANUFACTURE OUR OWN BUZZ? come uber-popular and uber-local, thus likely to gain No. No. No. And no. Open one account in your restaurant’s name. Take pictures that showcase your food, restaurant, staff and customers, and be upfront about it. Social-media users more ground with the dining public. are skilled at sniffing out fakes. Pick a couple of relevant hash tags and “own” them. Be active, The question now for restaurateurs is “How do I engaging and follow popular users with similar interests. create a smart Instagram strategy?” Owner Felipe Donnely took the direct approach at ISN’T THIS JUST ANOTHER WAY WE’RE VULNERABLE TO BAD PHOTOS OR Comodo, a Latin-American restaurant that launched in New York’s SoHo neighborhood last year. Adding CHEAP SHOTS, LIKE A PHOTO OF A MICROWAVED CHICKEN POT PIE TAGGED the tag #comodomenu to the restaurant’s menu, Co- WITH MY RESTAURANT NAME? modo’s waitstaff encouraged diners to take photos The conversations are happening whether you join in or not. You have a chance to partic- ipate and engage with your regulars and potential customers. Get to know your followers and use the tag for viewing or posting. Today, Insta- beyond the world of food and even reward interesting photos. Consider hosting a weekly gram hosts more than 700 #comodomenu photos. contest based around your food and a designated Instagram filter. Check out Statigr.am for Austin-based chain Mama Fu’s Asian House takes contest help. a slightly different tack. The company regularly streams photos of food, guests, staff and whimsical ® WE ALREADY HAVE A FACEBOOK PAGE AND USE TWITTER, OPENTABLE AND Bring the growing popularity of craft beer to the table with BREW CITY premium fries, onion rings and details from the restaurant. They engage with fellow ® FOURSQUARE. ISN’T THAT ENOUGH? specialty appetizers. Made with craft-brewed American pale ale, BREW CITY is the only brand with Instagrammers, seeking and following users as they real beer in every bite, for flavor and crunch that pair with the uniquely crafted dishes on your menu. Integration is key for a complete social marketing strategy. For example, you could post do on Twitter. your favorite Instagram follower shot of your food on your Facebook page. Users who find Still, running a successful Instagram program Find chef-inspired menu suggestions, explore the full product line and get promotion ideas at your Instagram account can effortlessly move to your Foursquare page via a small tab on requires more than posting a few nice shots. Take your profile. And from there, Foursquare links to OpenTable. With a few taps, a consumer brewcityusa.com/craft. a few tips from social-media evangelists Rachel can transition from a view of your grilled scallops on Instagram to a confirmed reservation Kay, president of RKPR in San Diego, and Matt on OpenTable. Hendrick, of Copilot Labs, a San Francisco-area start up that provides business insight and com- Jonathan Sidener, short-time chef, longtime journalist, writes about food and petitive restaurant rankings. n technology as a freelancer in Drexel Hill, Pa.

©2013 McCain Foods USA, Inc. The trademarks herein are owned by or used under license by McCain Foods Limited or by one of its subsidiaries. foodfanatics.com | FOOD FANATICS 63 BY THE NUMBERS Play these numbers for a bigger payout It belongs behInd your bar Be a Social Climber with the rest of the top-shelf stuff. Get to the top of online networks by connecting with these statistics* Social media remains in full force, with billions of users posting and commenting on Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest and Foursquare. Operators can use these tools to connect with limitless new customers. Scope out these numbers for some ideas on how to achieve social success.

Food is the top category on Pinterest, with 57 percent of 33 The increase in engagement users interacting with food- MILLION when posts go up on Facebook related content. TIP: Post pics of Number of reviews on between 8 p.m. and 7 a.m. your most photogenic dishes. Yelp in the restaurant versus daytime hours. TIP: Time category in 2012. posts accordingly to maximize TIP: Respond and interaction. comment to better serve diners.

The new Hobart Advansys™ LXe Undercounter Warewasher— The increase in engagement when food Number of additional best-in-class wash performance in a compact space. and beverage brands Foursquare check-ins when use emoticons. #33 Choose either the advansys lXe high-temp, featuring energy recovery, which reduces steam released into the bar Ranking of “food” as the most popular a user is crowned mayor of TIP: Remember, though, Instagram hashtags. TIP: Trending hashtag a restaurant. TIP: Be sure to environment, or the low-temp advansys lXe, featuring Puririnse, which removes chemical sanitizer residue to improve the fine line between keywords can increase exposure and position regularly court diners with beverage flavor and appearance. both models are easier on operators, with multiple cycle times and notifications for common playful and annoying. your restaurant as a thought leader. discounts and other incentives. errors. With all these benefits and more, the advansys lXe is the ideal undercounter warewasher for your restaurant or bar. *At press time

® ILLUSTRATION BY NICK O’MARA; SOURCES: YELP, COMPETE PULSE, WEBSTAGRAM, BUDDY MEDIA, RESTAURANT NEWS RESOURCE. RESTAURANT MEDIA, BUDDY WEBSTAGRAM, COMPETE PULSE, BY NICK O’MARA; SOURCES: YELP, ILLUSTRATION Explore the LXe at www.hobartcorp.com/ALXe Proud supporter of you. 64 FOOD FANATICS | SPRING 2013

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