The Romantic East

t ra h ed b Ta ber L n d on P h o og p y , o

LTER D EL MA R WA . THE

R O MA N T I EA S T

BU RMA A SSA M KA SHMIR , ,

W A LT ER D E L M A R A UT HO R OF ‘ ’ F ’ AROU ND T HE WORL D T HROUGH JA PA rgjA ND ‘ DIA OF To- D A Y

CON TAINING SIXT Y- FOU R FULL - PAGE I LLU ST RAT ION S

FROM PHOT OGRAPHS

L O ND O N A D AM A ND C HA R L ES B L A C K 1 9 06

A ll r igi d: reserved

P R E F A C E

The R oman ti c E ast is a narrative of a tour in

Burma, Assam, and Kashmir, and it completes the series begun in A r oun d the Wor ld thr ough

- J ap an and continued in I n di a of To day. The romantic side of Burma is to be found in its people, who are of all Oriental races the least spoiled by contact with the West . The romance of Kashmir lies in the country itself, while the romance of Assam is a purely commercial one, connected with the tea industry .

The R oman ti c E ast Offers some guidance as to what may be seen during a short tour ; and it will serve a useful purpose if it induces those who intend to travel at some future time to mature their plans in the present, for now is — the time to Visit Burma and Kashmir before the V

21 8 6 5 8 vi THE ROMANTIC EAST character of the Burmese people is changed by the steady inﬂux of alien immigrants, and before the amenities Of the Kashmir Valley are endangered by the new railway. The majority of the illustrations are from my own cameras, but several are selected from the large collection of Burmese photographs taken

1 9 05. . . n by Mr W. W Schumacher in The desig on the cover represents a corner of the E in dawya

Pagoda, Mandalay. C O NTE NT S

C H APTE R I

GOLDE N BURMA — — PAGE The ideal East Burmese characteristics The Yell ow — — — Peril Annexation Religion Marriage and divorce — - Burmese women Costumes A few ﬁgures

CH APTER II

THE FIRST VIEW — — Madras to Rangoon The Rangoon river Plague proteo — — tion Pagoda—s and dagobas The fraternity of the Yellow Robe Monks and monasteries

C HAPTE R III

RANGOON — — The Shwe Dagon pagoda Gawdam a the Buddha Tagon — — dain gs The great bell of Rangoon The story of the tiger

C HA PTE R IV

RA NGOON ( con ti n ued) — — Sule pagoda Nats The Central J ail — — elephants Silver-ware Rangoon hotels Vl l THE ROMANTIC EAST

C H APTE R V

RANGOON TO BHAMO — — — Pegu The Shwe -hmaw-daw The great Buddha Karen — — — women Toungoo Amarapura and Ava Sagaing — Katha Shwegu

C H A PTE R VI

BHAMO AND THE I RA WA D I — — The road to China The races of Upper Burma Chins — — — — Shans Kachins Palaungs The river The de ﬁles — The road to the Ruby Mines The Mingon bell and — pagoda Petroleum

C H APTE R VII

MANDALAY

’ — The Queen s Golden Monastery Fort Dufferin and the — Royal Palace The centre of the universe King Thebaw and his Queens

C HAPTER VIII

MANDALAY ( con ti nued) — — Sermons in stones The Ei n dawya pagoda The game of — — chinlon A Burmese pwe The Great Temple and the Maham an i

C H APTER IX

GOKTE IK — The railway to Lashio The Gokteik gorge and viaduct — — The natural bridge Maymyo The excursion to M oulmein CONTENTS ix

C HAPTER X

MOULMEIN PAGE ’ — — The Duke s Head The great Moulmein pagoda The — — — bells Ivory carvers Kado A modern shrine

C HAPTER XI

CHRISTMAS IN BURMA — Christmas Eve smoking concert Christmas at the Farm — — ’ Caves Rangoon to Chittagong New Year s Day at Akyab

C H APTER XII

ASSAM

— - — Chittagong The Assam Bengal railway Big game — — The planters The romance of Assam The tea industry

C HAPTER XIII

ASSAM ( con ti nued) — Climate The Brahmaputra from Nigri Ting to Dubri — — A mournful river Birds Th e new province of Eastern Bengal and Assam

C HAP TE R XIV

THE ROAD TO KA SHMIR — — The Happy Valley The City of Sri D hanJIbhoy and — — — Son A tramp in the snow Muree K ohala Bridge 1 24 b THE ROMANTIC EAST

C HAPTE R XV

KOHALA BRIDGE TO CHA KOTI PAGE — — The J ehlam and Kishan gan ga A dangerous road Domel — — The great gorge An accident to the tonga driver Chakoti

C HA PTE R XVI

CHA KOTI TO SRINAGAR — — — The J ehlam gorge A breakdown Uri Oriental cunning — — — Avalanches and landslides Rampur The Temple — — — of B un i ar Baramula Patan Srinagar

C H APTER XVII

THE VENICE OF THE E AST — — Early birds Merchants and tourists Thieves and — — swindlers Curios and trophies Punts and house boats

C H APTE R XVIII

THE BRIDGES A ND THE CITY — — Mayasam The bridges - Sher Garhi palace Mosq ue — — Shah Hamadan The great mosq ue Hari Parbat Tinpot temples

C H APTER XIX

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY I N THE WORLD

— ’ D ff r o of Fro the of S o o o i e ent p —ints view m steps l m n s Throne The valley and the mountain barriers Kashmir and the Kashmiris CONTENTS xi

C HAP TE R XX

THE GARDENS OF TH E GREAT MOGULS PAGE — — — Rotten Row The City Lake Nishat Bagh Shalimar — — Bagh Lalla Rookh Nasim Bagh

C HAP TER XXI

SRINAGAR TO BARAMULA

— “ — Manjhi s and nautch - girls The river of milk The — — — Naru canal Winter birds Si n gharas Volur Lake

C HAPTER XXII

A ND SO HOME — Baramula to Rawal Pindi The last dak

LI ST OF I LLU STRATI ONS

The Author Frontisp iece FACING PAGE Alien Immigrants 2 A Professional Beauty smoking a Torch 6 Taken by an Amateur 8 “ White Wings 1 2 Burmese Boats 14 Burmese Monks 20

r of o - o 24 Ca ved Base Tag n Daing, Shwe Dag n Shrine on Shwe Dagon Platform 26

’ Women s Tresses offered at Shwe Dagon Shrine 28

o a oo 3 0 The Sule Nat, Sule Pag da, R ng n

oo J o r 3 2 Rang n ail, utside the Ent ance

r- r oo 3 4 Timbe Ya d Elephants , Rang n

r oo 3 6 St eet Scene , Rang n

- - o 3 8 Shwe hmaw daw Pag da, Pegu

r i 40 The G eat Recl ning Buddha, Pegu

o of o r 42 The Pag da the F u Buddhas, Pegu Shwegu on the Irawadi 4 8

o o 52 Chinese Sh p, Bham

A o o Irawadi D eﬁle 56 ngel R ck, Sec nd The Great Bell at Mingon 60 xiv THE ROMANTIC EAST

FACING PAGE r 64 22. o r o Watch T we , Mandalay F t

2 - r hebaw rr r 66 3 . The Summer house whe e King T su ende ed

’ 24 M M or 6 8 . i n don s o T mb, andalay F t

2 of n o 2 5 . The Game Chi l n 7

26 . r r 74 Musicians and Dance s , Bu mese Pwe

Ar o r 6 27 . akan Pag da and Tu tle Tank 7

28 . r t o Ar o 7 8 Ent ance akan Pag da, Mandalay

2 o — r ro 8 0 9 . G kteik Viaduct T ain app aching

f o 2 3 0. r o 8 Ent ance Cave, G kteik Viaduct

3 1 l o o 8 8 . The Bel , M ulmein Pag da

2 o 0 3 . Kad Landing 9

3 r on or of o o 2 3 . Sh ines N th Side Kad Pag da 9

o rr 3 4 . M ulmein Hackney Ca iage 96

3 5. r r 8 Ch istmas Lunch with the Buddhas, Fa m Caves 9 “ ” of r 3 6 . The Only Lady the Pa ty 1 00

r on Ar o 1 4 3 7 . Ba ge akan C ast 0

o r 1 3 8 . B ats at Chandpu 08

’ r to r o A 1 3 . 10 9 Ent ance Plante s Bungal w, ssam

4 D oori a A 0. 1 1 2 Tea Estate, ssam

1 A - on r r 1 4 . Landing place the B ahmaput a 1 6

2 Gam iri hat on r r 4 . g the B ahmaput a 1 1 8

of r r 43 . View the B ahmaput a 1 20

4 Our o 4 . T nga with Luggage tied Outside 1 26

4 oo rr our 5 . C lies ca ying Luggage over the Snow 1 3 0 “ ’ 4 o o o ro 6 . S l m n s Th ne 1 3 4

’ 4 o o 7 . The Museum and S l mon s Throne from the River 1 3 8

4 8 . r r 1 42 The Museum, S inaga

fr 4 . o r r 1 4 9 View m the Bund, S inaga 6

r r fro 50. S inaga Bund m the Museum 1 50 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

FACING r r i r r She Ga h Palace, S inaga

atteh on e of r r r F Kadal, the B idges at S inaga

o of ri r M sq ue Shah Hamadan, S naga “ Z a o r h r r r aina K dal, The F u t B idge, S inaga

r o r r The G eat M sq ue, S inaga

r r r r Ha i Pa bat, S inaga

o fro r r Temple D me made m Biscuit Tins, S inaga

On r r r the Rive , S inaga

r r r Rive side Scene, S inaga Our Party leaving Srinagar by H ouse - boat Kashmiri Beauties

A ll on r a r Vi age the Na u C nal, Kashmi

- r r o r r Duck Hunte nea S pu , Kashmi

oo or - o r Volur r L king N th east ve Lake, Kashmi

2 THE ROMANTIC EAST

S - - the least spoilt, in pite of its oil mills, rice mills,

- and timber yards, by contact with the West, and the most pleasing in regard to the character of its

people.

These conditions, however, are doomed to pass

- away. The Burmese, originally Indo Chinese, are

being hard pressed by their ancestral races. By the northern frontier and from over the seas the enterprising Chinamen pour into the country in a

steady stream, absorbing the retail trade of the

rural districts, and competing successfully in the towns while the famished hordes of Tamils come

over in their thousands to cultivate the paddy -helds of the delta and press the idle Burman from the land .

Up to the present no great harm has been done, f or in spite of the undesirable aliens the Burmese c ontinue to increase . The coolies employed in the t owns are doing work which the B urmese never a ttempted to do, and the Chinese are rather forcing the Burmese women out of business than com

B il rm an peting with the men . The is by heredity

and choice a cultivator of the soil, and as a ﬁeld l is abourer is unexcelled . But now he being

GOLDEN BURMA 3

attacked in his last stronghold by the Tamil, and the struggle may prove disastrous to the Burman ,

n either on the material side, or by causing a cha ge in his most pleasing characteristics .

By nature the Burman is an indolent, lazy fellow, who is quite willing to let his wife do all the work without any interference on his part as long as she provides him with plen ty of food to eat an d tobacco to smoke. But the idleness of the

Burman, fostered by a superstitious belief in lucky ff and unlucky days, is not the shiftless indi erence

’ of the ne er- do - weel or the sullen apathy of the weak and hopeless . It is rather the careless optimism of the philosopher combined with the

’ Sportsman s contempt for productive labour in h i - er ted from a long line of freedom loving ancestors.

For the Burmese were a conquering race, their empire had been successfully defended by the sword from the assaults of the surrounding hostile races and tribes and when the British took Burma

a they found a free race who had not, as in Indi , been previously subdued by foreign invaders .

hi s Watch the Burman play at favourite games,

ut or p him in charge of a boat on a river in ﬂood, 4 THE ROMANTIC EAST and you will ﬁnd that he has a fund of energy to expend on those things in which he takes an

interest . Moreover, he is a cheerful, merry fellow ;

and, when not roused to sudden jealousy, a very

pleasant companion . But John Chinaman is taking

to wife the pick of the Burmese girls, and he has

his privilege of selection , because he gives them a

better home, less work, and ﬁner clothes and jewels

’ n t and, as lo g as his sons pigtails are lef to his care, is quite content to conform to the observances of

u the Buddhist religion, and let his wife bring p the

daughters as she likes . The mixed race Springing

up from these inter - marriages is a very good one

indeed, inheriting the cheerful temper and quick wit of the mother together with the father’ s

TO u capacity for work . the Chinaman B rma is

u l China inasm ch as he is content to ive, die, and be

buried there, and you may meet Chinamen whose fathers and even grandfathers have been born in

Burma . John is not far wrong either, for Burma

was, at any rate nominally, tributary to China as

1 8 8 1 u Of recently as , or p to within ﬁve years the time when England took the third bite and

gobbled up what had been left Of the Burmese GOLDEN BURMA 5 cherry from the two previous bites taken in 1 8 26 and 1 8 52. 24 1 8 26 By the treaty of February , , the coasts

Of Tenasserim bordering on Siam, and of Arakan , the narrow strip between the mountains and the

Bay of Bengal , were ceded with the outlying bits of Assam to the Honourable East India Company

Of by His Majesty the King Ava . By proclama 20 1 8 52 tion of December , , Lower Burma was

n I rawadi u an exed, and the valley p to Prome, as well as the valley Of the Sittang u p to a point about

-ﬁve u thirty miles north of Toungoo, came nder

1 1 8 8 6 u British rule . On January , , Upper B rma was annexed , and the whole of Burma became a province of British India . Upper Burma was the real home of the Burmese race, Lower Burma being occupied by the Talaing or Mun race but the Burmese have settled in large numbers in the delta, and it is becoming more and more difﬁcult to distinguish the various races which inhabit the country . Practically all Of the Burmese are Buddhists ; but the missionaries have had considerable success t wi h some of the minor races, and it is said that 6 THE ROMANTIC EAST a round hundred thousand of the Karens are

Christians . In theory, Burmese Buddhism is the purest form of the religion , unchanged since it was

’ brought to Burma by Asoka s missionaries, and it is possible that some of the more learned monks “ G awdam a follow the way indicated by ; but, as a rule, the Buddhism of the Burman is so lost in a ﬂood of superstition that it is rarely found on the surface. The Burmese have, however, learnt from

u their religion the virt es of tolerance, charitableness, — kind heartedness, and hospitality to a degree beyond most other races . Even the casual visitor to their country is impressed with their romantic character

vi and en es their happy disposition . As in other B uddhist countries marriage in

Burma is a purely secular affair . The parties agree to become man and wife and that IS quite sufﬁcient .

If there is any ceremony at all, the most important

O n o bserva ce is the eating out f the same dish, just as the Japanese drink out of the same saké cup . The Wife retains her maiden name and her separate property. Divorce is equally simple and free . In the villages an application to the elders by either party procures a divorce attested in writing : the

GOLDEN BURMA 7 party claiming the divorce leaving the common home . Each retains the property he or she had before the marriage and half of what has been accumulated duri ng the time they have bee n husband and wife . In some cases where the “ ” husband has paid marriage - money to get his bride the wife must repay this if she secures a divorce. In any event, the wife takes the female

u children and the h sband the male children . There seems to be no law against a plurality of wives nor any stigma attached to having two or three wives under the same roof. In these customs the Burmans and Japanese agree, and in Burma as in Japan the family life of the peasants is Open to the observation of any traveller.

Burmese girls have little of the educatl onal

n l adva tages of the boys, but their free ife gives them an earlyworldly knowledge, and the Burmesewomen have many attractions . They are affectionate and passionate, cheerful and bright, clever in their own ff a airs and in business, sharp in making a bargain, excellent housekeepers, and generally faithful wives .

h b ut T ey are seldom public prostitutes, a girl may be bought from her parents . The negotiations are 8 THE ROMANTIC EAST

u sually conducted with the mother, who is keener at driving a good bargain ; and when the contract

is made the girl is kept as a concubine, and does

not lose caste by assenting to such an arrangement .

During her concubinage she is treated as, and

e w n usually call d, a ife, and she freque tly brings her mother and the children of previous “ marriages ”

” u to live at the house of her new h sband .

r utsoe The Burman d apes himself in a paso , or p , which is a piece of cloth about fourteen feet long

n - and forty i ches wide, and twists a gaily coloured

handkerchief around his head . The costume of a Burmese woman ordinarily

en i consists of two pieces ; the gy and lungyi, or

’ - tamein . The former is a loose double breasted jacket with mandarin sleeves and falls over the ff lungyi , which , whenever the wearer can a ord it, is of thin silk and is simply a square of about ﬁve feet with the ends us ually sewn together so that it

- is put on like a petticoat and folded in over the

u right hip . Women sually go barefooted, but some

eta times wear clogs resembling the Japanese g , or ornamental slippers with a pointed toe - cap which holds all but the little toe. Decorated with a W IV S m r P hotog rap hed by chu ache

TAK E N B Y AN AMA TE U R .

GOLDEN BURMA 9

u l ta - bet certain amo nt of jewe lery, with a scarf ( ) f around her neck, a wreath of lowers in her well brushed hair, and a bunch of Christmas orchids falli ng over her right ear, the Burmese girl makes rather an effective picture ; but you must be careful not to annoy her by aiming your camera at her, as she has an idea that with it you may be able to see through her clothes, a liberty which as a modest

’ O and moral girl she can t allow. The lder women generally wear one or two switches or tails of false hair, and rub the face and neck over with white powder when making their toilet . The Burmese year 1 26 7 began on the 1 5th of 1 9 05 April , and the fact that their era is so far behind ours may account for their not being quite u p to date in some other matters . For example, it took us the best part of two days to do eighty three miles by rail ; it took until Wednesday afternoon for a letter posted the previous Friday in

Rangoon city to be delivered round the corner ; and it took over a quarter of an hour and a personal application at the ofﬁce to get a clean towel at the leading hotel in Burma . But there are compensa tions, as we discovered the morning we left Mandalay 10 THE ROMANTIC EAST

for Gokteik; The train leaves Mandalay at six in the morning to make the connection at Myohaung,

and we had engaged a ticca-gharry to call for u s at the Club in time to catch this train . But it seems that the gates of Fort Dufferin are not Opened

’ O n until six clock, and , owi g to this, our gharry arrived too late for the train . However, we drove

A . M. to the station , caught a train at to

Myohaung, and found the train for Gokteik still i waiting at the junction , where it continued to wa t

for another quarter of an hour . “ Including the Shan States, which are more or ” less dependant, Burma has an area of

square miles, or over four times that of England 1 9 01 and Wales, and its population in was estimated

at over while the cities of Rangoon,

had Mandalay, and Moulmein respectively

and inhabitants . Rice is the principal food Of the people as well as the principal

article of export ; and of the total cultivated area,

which exceeds acres, three out of every

four acres are planted with rice. When we left 1 9 04 Rangoon at the end of December, , we were

told that nearly tons of cargo -rice would

C H AP T E R II

TH E FI RST V IE W

— — Madras to Rangoon The Rangoon river Plague protection — Pagodas and dagobas The fraternity of the Yellow Robe — o Monks and m nasteries .

U P to the time we visited Burma there had been n o plague in that country and, as a protection against it, passengers leaving Indian ports for Rangoon had to be examined by the Health Officer at the time of embarkation , and their servants had to present themselves, four or ﬁve hours before the steamer sailed, for personal examination and fumi gati on of their clothes and luggage ; an indignity “ ” which our bearer strongly resented .

We sailed from Madras for Rangoon, in a

British India steamer, going out to the ship in a

- j olly boat, and did the voyage of nine hundred miles in a few minutes over three days . Our 12 P hotog raphed by th e A uthor W ITE W NG H I S .

THE FIRST VIEW 13

4000 2000 vessel, of about tons gross and under tons net, is licensed to carry, if used for natives 3 500 ’ only, over passengers, on and tween decks, 2000 in fair weather, and nearly in foul weather. On this voyage we carried about 1 8 00 Tamils for

- ﬁelds I rawadi the rice of the delta, and in addition

u r there were untold n mbe s of ants, cockroaches, and rats aboard. The voyage was without accident save that a Jesuit priest left open the bathroom tap , which ﬂooded all the cabins on one side of the ship

u and damaged a lot of clothing and l ggage. At eight o ’ clock in the morning of the third day we sighted the lightship on the Krishna Shoal, at

’ three o clock in the afternoon we slowed up at the pilot brig and took the pilot aboard , an hour later we had the Obelisk on Elephant Point abeam and at six o ’ clock in the evening had landed on the pier at

Rangoon . Entering the Rangoon river we overtook a full rigged ship carrying every stitch of canvas, a glorious sight seldom seen in these days . Farther up we saw the rice - boats and house - boats with the high stem s peculiar to Burmese rivers but not unlike the Chinese boats seen on the Canton 1 4 THE ROMANTIC EAST

Ra river. The sampans in the ngoon river also remind one of China , but the boatmen row Malay

i fashion standing and pushing the r crossed oars .

It is eleven miles from the pilot brig, or about seven miles from the ﬁrst buoy which marks the channel of the Rangoon river, to Elephant Point

- at its entrance, and Rangoon is twenty six miles

u - farther p the river, or twenty two miles as the

i O 1 3 0 crow ﬂ es . The belisk on Elephant Point is

the feet high, and Eastern Grove lighthouse on

Grove Point opposite is 9 3 feet high . On the way up the H m aww un (Mowo on ) Chaung enters from

u the east, and a little higher p Bassein Creek joins ff from the west . Li ey Island is passed, and j ust before the Pegu river comes in from the east the

Syriam Pagoda is seen on the same side. Syriam,

Old u u the town where the Port g ese, Dutch , and

- English had in succession factories or trading posts, lies some miles away up the Pegu river .

The ﬁrst distant view of Shwe Dagon pagoda, rising above Rangoon and dimly seen through its smoke and haze, is one of the most impressive sights that can well be imagined . It awakens the feelings Of awe and veneration inspired by the View

16 THE ROMANTIC EAST

are in reality towers of victory, and each story has

ts i projecting roof or cornice, closely resembling the projections on the Burmese pagoda spires .

n i s z The Burmese ame for pagoda edi, and paya means a shrine or its image . Both the pagoda and the dagoba are lineal descendants of the tope at Sanchi, and to the great

Asoka, the builder of the Indian monument, Burma and Ceylon owe their architecture and their religion . The Buddhists say that Asoka sent the missionaries

U ttaro Sono and to convert Burma, and that Buddhism became the Burmese state religion in the second century of our era ; but W estern historians think that Buddhism was introduced into Burma three centuries later from Ceylon . In both countries practically the whole of the indigenous population remains Buddhist to this day, those who profess other religions being immigrants or i the r progeny. The Burmese pagodas are similar in general

f Thu aram a orm to the p Dagoba, at Anuradhapura,

e and others of the same type in Ceylon ; and, lik

the dagobas, are gigantic reliquaries built over

some sacred object . They are not only identical THE FIRST VIEW 17

in the main outlines Of construction and in the use

Of but v solid brickwork throughout, e en the name pagoda is supposed to be only a corruption of

dagoba, which in turn is supposed to be derived

arbha from the Sanskrit words dhatu , relic, and g , womb . In both cases a raised platform, almost h invariably square in plan, is built, althoug in some

i n Of cases, as that the pagoda on the Botataung

Of j etty at Rangoon, the top the platform is on the, present, level of the ground . From the centre of

S the platform the pagoda proper prings, conical or pyramidal in general form, but most frequently with a square sub - base changing to a diminishing or terraced octagonal base, and then into a circular form tapering to a point surmounted by an umbrella shaped metal top called a ti which sometimes has the shape of a miniature seven or nine - storied pagoda . The dagoba usually has a circular base on a square

- sub base, but more nearly approaches a hemispheric ff form ; and is also surmounted with a ti di ering, however, in minor details from the pagoda ti. The processionals or space left on the platform between its outer edge and the base Of the dagoba proper 3 18 THE ROMANTIC EAST

is sometimes ornamented with statues , as at the

R uanweli Dagoba, Anuradhapura, and enclosed

a with an ornamental rail , while the p goda platforms are more frequently embellished with smaller pagodas , shrines, or bells suspended on wooden frames . if The relic, a very holy one, would probably be encased in gold, then enclosed in a silver box , which would in turn be placed in a copper receptacle, and this would be embedded in the centre of the erection, sometimes at the level of f the platform and sometimes higher up . A ter the solid brickwork had been ﬁnished, the fabric would be covered with stucco or some sort of plaster, which would be whitewashed and perhaps covered

- with gold leaf. In some cases a small pagoda c ontaining a precious relic is completely encased in a larger pagoda built over it at a later period, and this process may continue until the original plat f Of orm becomes the base the enlarged pagoda . There are some further peculi arities of the

e Burmes pagodas to be noticed . The base is s ometimes completely encircled with minor shri nes, a s is that of the Sule pagoda, Rangoon, or kept THE FIRST VIEW 19

E in daw a entirely free, as is that of the y pagoda,

Mandalay. Sometimes the embellishments of the platform follow some deﬁnite plan and are part of

but O the original design, more ften these additions

a are made in an irregular and haph zard manner.

Or Moreover, while the building of a pagoda a “ ” shrine is a sure way of getting merit, the same result is not attained by an equal expend iture in

Old repairing an one, so that you may see, on the

m r same platfor , shrines in all states of repair, f om the freshly painted and gilded shrine with the carvings sharp and inta ct to the tumbledown shed with dismantled top , decayed boards , and defaced

: carvings . So with the pagodas themselves some are overgrown with trees, and some show their brick bones through their torn stucco skin , some are black with age, while others are newly white washed or raise aloft glittering spires of gold .

Shwe is the Burmese word for golden, but is also

u se in general to indicate anything superlative, and

- whether a pagoda is entirely covered with gold leaf, or partly gilded , or has only a gilt ti, its name is pretty sure to begin with Shwe . After the pagodas the greatest architectural 20 THE ROMANTIC EAST

on i -k o un s interest lies in the p gy y g , the monasteries

on i s or residences of the p gy or mendicant monks,

who shave their heads, and, clothed in yellow gar

ments, beg their daily food . Their vows are taken

for a short period only, but may from time to time

be renewed indeﬁnitely, or may be terminated at the

end of any speciﬁed period . The monasteries or

pongyi - kyoungs are not only the dwelling - places of l the monks, but the schoo rooms of the country, so that every Burmese lad in former days followed

the life of a monk for some years, and many

- Burmans return to it in after life . Even to day primary education is almost entirely in the hands

Of the monks . A layman may become a monk at

m a any time, and a monk y become a layman at the termination of the period for which he has taken

the vows . In this manner the life of the monks

is known to the people from the inside, and there

is no mystery about it . Every Burmese boy entered a monastery as a probationer or sheng when he was eight or nine

years old, and assumed the yellow robe of a novitiate at about the age of twelve . The four grades are

shinlau n called sheng (or g) , yahan, goyin , and

C H A P T E R III

RA NGOON

— — - The Shwe Dagon pagoda Gawdam a the Buddha Tagon d ain gs — — r of r The great bell of Rangoon The sto y the tige .

A s the Shwe Dagon was the ﬁrst Burmese pagoda

had we seen in the distance, so it was the ﬁrst we visited after landing at Rangoon . We drove out by the Pagoda Road, which is a continuation of

China Street, passing the cathedral, the level racecourse, and the cantonment gardens, and dis mounted at the foot of the long ﬂights of stone and brick stairs leading from the south side to the top . On the ﬁrst terrace going up , two ff monster gri ins guard the entrance, which is through a new seven - roofed pavili on decorated with teak carvings and gorgeous in fresh paint and gild

a ing. Then the steps le d up through passages to

Thein uttara the levelled top of g Hill, which forms 22 RANGOON 23 the great platform and measu res 9 00 feet by 6 8 5 feet . From the centre of the platform rises the pagoda on an octagonal base measuring 1 3 55 feet a round . The height of the pagoda is given by different 3 20 3 70 authorities at various ﬁgures from to feet, and the height O f the ti above the sea at from 448

4 a tt r to 57 feet . The City Survey and the G ze ee agree that the latter elevation is 51 3 feet and the Survey gives the details as follows Crown of road at south steps feet above mean tide, platform

feet above road, rim of the talapoin or umbrella feet above platform, and tip of ti

3 03 8 f . eet higher The metal ti, which therefore 3 26 a rises about feet bove the platform, and is

- 28 00 forty seven feet high and weighs pounds, e 1 8 7 1 was pres nted in by Mindon Min, King of

Independent Burma . It is heavily gilt and studded with jewels, and it is believed to have cost

The Buddhist legends claim that Dagon, the name of the city until changed to Rangun by

A lom ra p , King of Ava, was founded in the sixth

B . C . century , and that the pagoda was built to contain relics of G awdam a and three previous 24 THE ROMANTIC EAST

Buddhas . The sacred relics include the staff of

Kakusanda - ﬁlte r Of Kon a am an a , the water g , a

’ portion of Kasyapa s robe, and eight hairs from the

to head of the Buddha , given with his own hand

the Burmese envoys .

The base of the pagoda, from which the gold 1 8 7 1 leaf put on in has mostly disappeared, is

u entirely surro nded by temples and shrines, most of them containing brass or marble images of the

Buddha in the act of renouncing the world . The Shwe Dagon has been regilt several times during

the last century, and the gold required to do the work well is alon e worth nearly to say

nothing of the labour involved . The Burmese name for the Buddha is G awdam a (or Godama) from the Sanskrit G autama or Pali

G otama and from the other Indian name of Sakya Muni the Japanese get their name Of Shaka and

- a the Chinese get S a k . The latter also call the

FO Fo -hi ff Buddha , Foe, in their di erent dialects , and the Japanese commonly use the word Butsu .

In Burma the standing G awdam a is called Mat - tat kodaw ; the seated one, with the right hand over the knee and the left held palm upward in the lap, P hotog r aphed by IV I/V S chum ache r C RVE B E T - E R A D AS OF AGON DAING , SHW DAGON , ANGOON .

RANGOON 25

- - and Tin myin kwe ; the reclining, dying Buddha ,

- - - Shin bin tha yaung. Many of the G awdam as in the Shwe Dagon shrines have gold - embroidered robes thrown over

their shoulders and covering them to their feet .

The shrines themselves are covered with stucco,

u decorated with colo red glass, and have plate glass If fronts, or are built entirely of teak . of the latter,

n the wood may be in its natural colour, or var ished ,

Of or stained black, or gilded . At the side these

shrines are stone or stucco elephants, lions, and

-dai n s other beasts ; and dotted about are tagon g ,

ﬂa - f or g staf s, carrying the peculiar cylindrical or

ﬂat streamers made of netting held o ut by Splints

of bamboo . On the opposite side of the processional path

surrounding the pagoda, or rather on the outer

margin of the platform, to the right of the south entrance is a beautifully carved pavilion with thirteen pillars holding aloft double Spires of seven

stories . On the east side of the platform is a white

temple, having in one bay a reclining ﬁgure of

Yathoda a Theiddatha y , the wife of Prince , the h Buddha , reposing on a andsomely decorated 26 THE ROMANTIC EAST

u charpai , over which are s spended three modern

white Silk parasols trimmed with lace ; and some of the best teak carvings are to be found on this

Side of the platform . On the north side is a carved

and gilt pavilion with handsome pillars . In one of the corners near the Shan pagoda is the Shrine of “ the great bell, or Maha Ganda, the great sweet

” 1 4 1 5 7 7 voice, feet high , inches thick, and feet 5

re inches in diameter at the mouth , which was p — sented by Mentara Gyi and thereby hangs a tale. 1 8 53 In , after the second war with Burma, the British conquerors attempted to transport to Cal

c utta 42 as a trophy this bell, which weighs over tons and is said to be the fourth largest in the

u world, but the boat overt rned and the bell fell into the Rangoon river, and there remained despite

ff S O all e orts to raise it. the Burmans asked if they might keep the bell if they could get it up,

Off and the icial reply was, If (with heavy emphasis

” ou on the if) y can raise it, you can have it . Now

n o the Burmans had heavy tackle, but they had a small idea whose application solved the problem .

e They mad a heavy disc of solid teak, the exact

’ S t ize of the bell s grea est diameter at the lip, and

RANGOON 27

fastened it ﬁrmly to the other end, or ear, of the m bell , and in that manner ade a wheel of it . They were then able by passing ropes around the centre to roll the bell out of the river and replace it on the

temple platform . This is the accepted story, but the

fact is that Maha Ganda was never moved at all .

It was a smaller bell hanging near the north - west corner of the platform which was seized by the

prize - agents during the war of 1 8 26 and abandoned in the river. Sir James Edward Alexander, then

Tr avels 1 8 27 a subaltern, in his , published in , relates that the natives raised the bell by attach ing two cables to it , which at low water were made fast to a brig moored over it when the tide rose so did the bell, and was hauled ashore . There is another story of more recent date in relation to a tiger, which in some unexplained

n u ma ner found its way into Rangoon , and so ght refuge on one of the terraces of the base of the

Shwe Dagon pagoda . Down rushed the monks and temple attendants in a panic to the fort below the pagoda and implored the soldiers to come up and kill the ferocious beast and so save them from a terrible death . After much diffi culty and some 28 THE ROMANTIC EAST

danger the tiger was traced to its hiding place, and in order to get at him a soldier had to climb to the roof of one of the smaller Shrines from which he killed the animal . Next day there was a great

on is commotion . The very p gy who had begged the s oldiers to kill the tiger denounced them as

’ S n at S wicked layers of the temple s or good pirit, and not only hung the Skin over the Spot

but where it was shot, ultimately placed on the pagoda platform a plaster image of the tiger to be worshipped by the faithful and Shown to

the curious .

S taz o un On the west ide is a g or memorial chapel , erected by KO Oung Gyee (Gyi) in 1 9 00 at a cost

. 1 20000 S of Rs , , (say which will serve to how the quality of recent work as compared with the

older examples here . On this side is the great

recumbent Buddha, whose temple was being regilt

- at the time we visited it, and near the north west

corner is a big seated Buddha . To the right of the Shrine at the top of the entrance steps is a ﬁnely

carved tusk in a glass case. Even more interesting than the carvings on the shrines or the images within is the crowd of well P hotog r ap hed by IV IV S chum acher

’ ME TRE E ER E A T E R E WO N S SS S OFF D SHW DAGON SH IN .

RANGOON 29

behaved worshippers who throng the platform . The Burmese women stroll about Smoki ng chero 'ots

an or torches, the latter nine inches long and inch in diameter, containing a mixture of tobacco and leaves rolled in a teak- leaf wrapper or in a piece of

Of - the inner bark the betel tree. The Burmans lie on their back in the shade of the pagoda and smoke all day. Even children

Old only four or ﬁve years smoke, and you may see a Burm ese woman Offer a puff from her torch to her friends or acquaintances . At one shrine you may see a party of worshippers from the north - west frontier of India, at another some pilgrims from Siam or Ceylon ; and you will be almost certain to see a resident Chinaman with his Burmese wife and children, the boys wearing pigtails and the girls dressed in Burmese fashion . On the platform are

— S fortune tellers, and on the way down are the hops for ﬂowers, sweets, candles, tobacco , and the tri angular gongs with a wonderful tone which you

b u l may y for a rupee, as well as quaint pith dol s,

are who stand on their elephantine legs, which on

v sale from an anna up. Then there is the dri e k through Dalhousie Par , where you may see the 3 0 THE ROMANTIC EAST syces holding sunshades fashioned like the ancient chhatra or royal umbrella over the mem - sahibs ;

n S and there is the view, so well k own from ketches

Of and pictures, Shwe Dagon over the Great i Royal Lake (Kandawgy ) .

C H AP T E R IV — RA NG OON ( con ti nu ed

— — — Sule pagoda Nats The Central J ail Teak and elephants — r- r — oo o Silve wa e Rang n h tels .

HE RE T is another famous pagoda in Rangoon , the Sule, at the junction of Dalhousie Street and Sule Pagoda Street. Under this pagoda a Talaing prince is said to have been buried alive

r - d l by A lomp a . The well kept pago a p atfo c G awdam as ontains many brass , and at the south east corner is a shed under which may be seen

Of of the image the Sule Nat, the guardian angel

u the Shwe Dagon . The B rmese ﬁrmly believe in nats and their great powers for good or evil . There are nats with the attributes of good fairies or angels to be prayed to, and nats like evil genii o r demons to be propitiated, but the existence of both kinds is very real to the Burmese, and the 3 1 3 2 THE ROMANTIC EAST belief in them underlies their Buddhism and is not aff ected by the adverse teachings of Gaw

dama . One of the Sights of Rangoon is the Central

Jail, capable of accommodating three thousand prisoners and holding nearly t wo thousand at

the time of our visit. There were prisoners at

work as carpenters, blacksmiths, printers , book

- - - binders, mat makers, cabinet makers, wood carvers,

- at S and rope makers ; and the jail howroom , u opposite the entrance, can be bo ght the results

of their labour. The carved teak furniture is

u u worth buying, but you m st estimate an amo nt equal to the origin al cost for Shipping expenses to your home in London . If it goes farther, or to a country where there is an import duty on

such goods, more must be allowed for expenses .

The gallows in the jail -yard are built to remain in

saw position permanently, and we some Burmans

in the cells under sentence of death . The

prisoners all have fetters rivetted to their ankles, and if refractory are punished by being put to

W - work on a indlass working a grinding mill, or

Of by ﬂogging. We heard the groans one poor

RANGOON 3 3 wretch being ﬂogged while we were making some “ ” purchases of long - sleeve chairs and carved teak purchases in the showroom . The ﬂogging is done with a rattan half an inch thick and about a yard long . Rangoon is on the left bank of the Hlaing or

Rangoon river, j ust above the point where it receives the Pegu river and Pazundaung creek. On the banks Of the latter most Of the rice-mills

S are ituated, while the oil business is concentrated d on the Pegu . The unhuske rice, or paddy, is converted into cargo rice by grinding off the outer husk, or into milled, or white rice by denuding it

u of the inner pellicle as well . Higher p the

Rangoon river, half way to the suburb of

- Kemmendine, are some of the big timber yards . Having procured a card to the manager of one of these yards, we went out early one morning to see the elephants at work . They are unable to endure the heat during the middle of the day, even in winter, so that in the cold season they are only worked from daylight to nine o ’clock and

’ from three o clock to dusk, while in summer their working hours are shorter . 3 4 THE ROMANTIC EAST

’ The mahout sits not on the elephant s neck , but on a sort of cross -frame Of wood placed on a padded cloth well in the centre of the elephant’ s

uzbu z but back, and uses a long light goad (g ) ;

well - trained animals learn to understand and

- a - obey, without being ridden, half dozen words

Of Old command . We saw three at work, one

warrior whose brittle, chipped ears betrayed an

Of age eighty years or more, a young one, and one

hl S i s . in pr me, about forty year old They dragged

the logs out of the river and up to the saw -mill with chains lifted them Off the ground with their

n - tru ks and tusks pushed them with their fore feet,

- hind feet, or trunk as directed, and ﬁnally stacked

the squared timbers exactly as required . On the way back there are the ﬁne carvings of the Chinese

- the j oss house in Strand Road to be seen, and at

the other end of the Strand Road , which continues

a s Monkey Point Road, is the Botataung Jetty, where there is a gold pagoda whose platfoffn c ontains monuments erected over the graves of British soldiers and sailors who fell in the second

Burmese War more than ﬁfty years ago . We Spent most of one day in a ticca - gharry

RANGOON 3 5

driving about Rangoon and its suburbs, but failed to ﬁnd anything further of great interest . The

on i - k oun s dilapidated p gy y g at Kemmendine, one of whose shrines was in use as a stable, are hardly

t n wor h the jour ey . There is nothing extra ordinary about Government House ; or the private bungalows in Park Road and other fashionable avenues ; or the clubs, unless it be the sheds used ’ t it as beggars clubs ; or the bazaars , except hat is curious to see how the business there is mono li d h po se by t e Sharp and clever Burmese women . A visit to the silversmiths in Godwin Road was interesting as Showing how stationary the art has remained . Almost the only articles on sale are Silver bowls cast in the rough and ﬁnished on the outside by hand chasing. It is a fact that we saw

’ r e ousse no p work being done, as all the artisans were at work chasing, but we were unable to verify the statement that none of the bowls are worked from the inside . However, the bowls are

n nearly all made with the same conventional desig s, and their value largely depends upon the work and art displayed in the chasing. We were Shown one or two specimens of pierced work in silver, but 3 6 THE ROMANTIC EAST

could not ﬁnd any niello work. In the latter the l chasing is ﬁlled in with black niello, an al oy com

Of S . posed lead, ilver, copper, and sulphur

All, from the poorest workmen to Maung Yin “ ” Maung Master Silversmith, ask double the

t e weight of h article in rupees, a price which only the latter Should get for his very ﬁnest work . Even supposing the silver in the bowl to be of

' ﬁn en ess it standard , is only worth twelve annas per tola instead of Sixteen ; so that buying silver

S articles, even at their imple weight in rupees, means giving a proﬁt of thirty - three per cent on the

A S cost of the silver. this method of selling worked Silver by weight is in u se all over India from

Burma to Kashmir, it may be well to explain the

calculation in detail. The rupee is of British

S standard ilver and weighs exactly one tola. The

1 8 0 3 tola weighs grains or 3 of an ounce troy . Therefore when bar Silver of standard ﬁneness is worth 26 3 pence per ounce the silver in the 6 rupee is worth of 2 § or exactly 1 0 pence. For

the silver in the rupee to be worth a shilling, bar

S 3 2 ilver must sell at pence, to be worth the 1 6 present par of pence (or annas) , bar silver would

RANGOON 3 7 have to rise to 42-3 pence per ounce ; and to be

Old 2 S 6 4 worth the par of hillings, to pence per ounce. Rangoon hotels afford interesting studies for

ou the naturalist. In the course of one evening y may discover in your bedroom striped squirrels, a chirping liz rds, and muskrats, to say nothing of

ﬂeas, mosquitoes, ants, and cockroaches . From

u r your windows you can see black crows, v ltu es,

n and , in the distance, cranes as well as other wadi g birds .

NOTE TO CHAPTER IV

TH E AVA KING S OF THE A LOMPRA DYNASTY

Alom ra p .

- - Tsi t - - or U a- son Naung daw gyi, kaing meng p yaza, eldest of Alom ra p .

l m ra o r o son of A o . Maung Lauk, Sinbyushin , sec nd p

or son . Maung Ye Hla, Singu Min, eldest Maung Lauk or Paon oza r few o son Maung Maung, g , eigned a days, nly

- — Naung daw gyi .

- - - 1 7 8 1 . Bo r or i ﬁf son daw paya, Menta a gyi, Maung Wa ng, th Alom ra p .

Ba- i - r o B O- - 1 8 3 0 gy daw, g ands n daw paya, went insane ,

o 1 8 3 7 1 8 45. dep sed , died

- - Tharawadi ro r Ba 1 8 45 . Min, b the gyi daw, went insane wa i son Thara d . Pagan Min, M r r o in o . Mind n , b the Pagan Min Th baw e son o . Min, Mind n Min C H A P T E R V

RANGOON TO B HAMO — - — — u h Sh - h a da h r at Buddha ar n o n Peg —T e we m w w T e g e K e w me Toungoo Amarapura and Ava Sagaing Katha

Shwegu .

TOUR ING in the interior of Burma is di fﬁcult unless you stick to the routes followed by the I rawadi l Floti la steamers or to the railways . The latter 1 3 53 are metre gauge, with a total length of miles 1 9 03 in May , and the principal projected extensions , for which the Government is to provide are from Pegu to Martaban, opposite Moulmein,

1 22 an d 6 8 miles, from Henzada miles to Kyangin ,

I rawadi i on the . Burmese standard t me employed on the railway is Six hours and thirty min utes ahead of Greenwich , or one hour ahead of Indian standard time . On the way to Mandalay by the railway you

the can, between trains, visit Pegu, the ancient 3 8

RANGOON TO BHAMO 3 9

H e nthawadi capital Of the Talaing kingdom of . ill Pegu was once a port, and is st connected with

the Sittang river by the Pegu - Sittang Canal which

- j oins the river at Myit kyo . The city was destroyed

A lo m ra by p nearly a hundred and ﬁfty years ago,

but Of its .former greatness two wonderful monu

ments remain , the colossal Buddha to the west of

- - the railway and the Shwe hmaw daw pagoda. Long after the dome of the Rangoon secretariat

has sunk below the horizon, you can see from the

train the Shwe Dagon, which is visible as far away

- as Dabein, over twenty two miles from Rangoon

by the railway, while at Tawa, nine miles from

- - Pegu , the Shwe hmaw daw can be seen from the

left hand Side of the train . From Pegu station you are driven about a mile by way of Slaughter

House Road, the Bridge, Canal Road, and

n Thanatpin Road, passi g a great number of wheel t wrights, whose houses have an open lower s ory,

- used as a store room or stable, with the living

- - apartments above . You pass the Leik pya gan tank on the right of the road on the way to the

’ pagoda s south entrance, which latter was newly 1 01 painted and lighted in 9 . The square platform 40 THE ROMANTIC EAST

1 0 1 3 9 0 is only feet above the ﬁelds, and measures 20 feet each way . The second platform is feet

Of 273 6 higher, has a perimeter feet, and can be entered by stairs in the centre of each face. The octagonal base Of the pagoda has Sides measuring

1 6 2 Of 3 24 feet each, and the ti rises to a height feet from the second platform .

The Shwe - hmaw - daw is a graceful bell- shaped

n pagoda, surmounted by a pyramidal metal ti hu g all around with tinkling bells, and it is covered

- with gold leaf in various states of preservation, the most recent renewal being on the highest octagonal part, where bamboo screens had been erected to protect the gilders who were at work during o ur visit . The smooth circular part above was also bright and comparatively fresh . The carvings on the cornices of the seven - story wooden tower on the platform are excellent ; but on the whole there is not much to be seen at Shwe - hmaw - daw beyond

Of ~ the pagoda itself, which seems out place in a town whose population is now only about and the pagoda would be deserted but for the pilgrims who come from a distance to worship at its Shrines .

RANGOON TO BHAMO 41 On the way back we turned to the right at the canal to visit a pagoda with a large and well executed brass Buddha, and then continued across

- the railway to the Shwe nadaw pagoda, and the

- lizale - G awdam as Shwe g pagoda with its sixty four , and afterwards by a Shocking bad road to the Shwe tachaun g or great Buddha, which is also known as

- - - the Shin bin tha hlayaung. This is a reclining 1 8 0 50 ﬁgure over feet long, and feet high at the h S . houlder At the head, whic bears a peculiar

- l m a i ak head dress or tiara cal ed g , is a large box . The ﬁgure and its pedestal are of brick covered

e with plas ter. It had b en entirely lost sight of and overgrown with j ungle until it was discovered in looking for ballast for the railway. Since then the plaster has been renewed and freshly painted over,

ﬁn er- the box at the head, and the g nails of the

- Buddha have been gilded, and the head dress

$ decorated with glass jewels . Near the head are

- erected two tagon daing of bamboo, sustaining long cylindrical streamers Of “ split bamboo covered with

paper, which reach to the ground when there is no

wind . The bare glimpses of this colossus, which could formerly be obtained from the railway 6 42 THE ROMANTIC EAST carriage j ust before reaching and j ust after passing

S Off i Pegu station, are being hut by a bu lding, with

steel lattice pillars, under construction to protect it

from the elements . Its direction from Pegu station

at is between a conical pagoda near hand, and

Mahazedi Off the square farther to the west . The ﬁ Kyaikpun pagoda with the great seated gures,

9 0 Of feet high, the Four Buddhas, lies to the south ,

- ku - and beyond it the Shwe gyi pagoda. In Pegu we sawmany Burmans wearing only a loin cloth , and had our ﬁrst opportunity of studying at close quarters the designs with which their bodies were tattooed, some few from neck to instep, but most of them from the waist to the calf of the

San erm an o leg. There is a curious story, told by g but Of denied by Symes, in relation to the origin the universal Burmese custom of tattooing the

u body, which ascribes this c stom to the wise king who commanded the young men to be tattooed, and the young women to wear their lungyis so as to expose one thigh, as they are still sometimes worn in

O was u Mandalay . The bject to enco rage marriages

- and increase the declining birth rate. The Karen women who live in the Pegu district, and come

RANGOON TO BHAMO 43 o riginally from the Salwin valley, are said to be

Of the least moral the native races, and most of the prostitutes in Burma are said to be recruited from them . Going north from Pegu a stream is crossed before reaching Shwehle ; and between Pyuntaza an d Nyaunglebin there is a gigantic seated Buddha,

S , under a rough bamboo and matting hed “ near the

Kaboun railway. The g river is crossed two miles w e . b fore reaching Toungoo This to n, which is on the right bank of the Sittang river, was at one time the capital of an independent kingdom and remained the terminus Of the railway until after

Upper Burma was annexed . East of Toungoo the

Myalat range of South Shan hills come into view

Of and continue until Kume Road station, some 5000 the peaks being nearly feet high . Pyinmana i is the centre of one of the teak distr cts, and its

sun big pagoda shows up well in the morning , while at the next station hills are to be seen to the west . At Nyaungyan, near the top of the

Irawadi watershed between the Sittang and rivers, 6 24 ff feet above the sea, there is a very e ective

n group of pagodas to be seen from the statio . 44 THE ROMANTIC EAST

There is a halt at Yamethin , and it is in the plains to the east of this town that the Sittang and

Tsam on rivers rise, the former ﬂowing southward

- 3 50 between the Pegu and Paung Laung hills,

u miles to the G lf of Martaban, and the latter

1 00 - ﬂowing northward miles into the Myit nge, j ust

adi above its j unction with the I raw . The Sittang m river is famous for its acareo or bore, which is

Similar to the eagre of the Trent and the Severn . This phenomenon is caused by the action Of the

d u Of ti es which rush p the river in the form a wave, and in the case of the Sittang this wave at the river’ s mouth is ordinarily about three feet high and travels against the stream at a pace estimated

’ at twelve miles an hour. This bore must have become greatly modiﬁed, unless the early writers

who on Burma, state it to have been ﬁfteen to twenty feet high , were given to some exaggeration . 3 06 Thazi, miles from Rangoon, is the j unction for the branch line to Myingyan which passes

u thro gh Meiktila, where there is a famous lake . At Myittha we saw a number Of Shan women

wearing wide trousers and great umbrella - Shaped

straw hats , and a few miles beyond we crossed the RANGOON TO BHAMO 45

Zawgyi river with its stone weir, from which the

a town of Kyaukse t kes its name . Above the town is a hill covered with scores Of white pagodas and h crowned with the gilded S wethayaung. At the station the pedlars were selling “ sugar corn (maize) and the native policemen were armed with

- swords . The Myit nge is crossed before reaching the town of the same name with its cluster of

pagodas . There are a vast number of pagodas to

the east of the line near Tagundaing, the station before Myohaung j unction where the three lines

to Mandalay, to Lashio, and to Amarapura Shore — for Alon and Myitkyina centre . We followed

the latter branch, changing at Amarapura for the i ferry across the I rawad to Sagaing.

The river at Ava, four miles lower down where — the Myit nge enters and about 700 miles from the

- ﬁve . sea, is nearly eighths of a mile wide Ava was formerly the capital of Burma , during the reign of

B O - - daw paya, and it was from this ancient city that the ﬁrst Marquis of Dufferin and Ava took his

1 8 8 8 Of title in after the annexation Upper Burma, which took place during the time he was Viceroy of India . After Ava was deserted Amarapura 46 THE ROMANTIC EAST

1 8 6 0 became the capital until , when the seat of

n Government was removed to Ma dalay . T he View of Sagaing from Amarapura is

extremely picturesque, and seen in the evening sun, its gleaming pagodas gave back the light from every

the eminence, including hillocks close to the river,

to the distant mountain tops , and ranging from

Nga -dat - gyi near by on the west side to the great

Kaun hm udaw round dome of the g in the north .

u We clambered p the ghat at Sagaing, followed to the station by a crowd of girls and women carrying

our luggage, and we amused ourselves by purchas

Of . ing samples the fruit on sale there Pineapples,

- kam rakh bananas, custard apples, pomegranates, and ,

or carambolas, were to be had , the latter a bitter

fruit having a four - pointed star on the top and

better suited for cooking than eating raw . Between — Sagaing which was the capita l of Burma in the fourteenth century—and more recently during the reigns Of Naung - daw- gyi and some of his — successors and Ywataung, the modern railway town three miles away, there is a pagoda with a

tree growing from the top . There is also a large

- u brick dome shaped pagoda, s rmounted with a ti, RANGOON TO BHAMO 47

“ called the Kyewa ( breast pagoda to be seen

- north west of Ywataung station .

u The railway runs north p the Mu valley, and to the east can be seen the hills which separate this valley from the valley of the Irawadi . We passed

’ A lom ra s and ‘ hi s Shwebo, the seat of p government burial place, during the night, arriving at Naba j unction early in the morning, and changed there

o n e Of for Katha, where we caught the river steamers which wait till noon if the train is late and run daily to Bhamo . We had planned to go u Of p to the terminus the railway at Myitkyina, 724 miles by rail from Rangoon and 1 3 8 m iles f rom Bhamo by river, and come down by river to

but Mandalay, we found that no steamers ran a bove Bhamo, and that travelling by native boats was uncomfortable and uncertain . The systems of transliteration from Burmese to English generally place the letter y after a

S t consonant , to how that the latter is sof but it nevertheless comes as a Shock to hear Myitkyina

SO i pronounced as to rhyme with Kitchener, and gy “ F o great, pronounced the same as jee . r reasons known only to the learned, Amarapura has the 48 THE ROMANTIC EAST

l tonic accent on the ﬁrst syl able , while Pegu,

Katha, and Moulmein have it on the last syllable.

The time - table of the Irawadi Flotilla is subject to daily change during the winter months , owingto

the prevalence of fogs, especially in the mornings, so that you cannot be at all sure where you will

n cast anchor or tie up at ight, or when you will

start the next day. The steamers only run, as a rule, while there is daylight, and it takes on an average about fourteen hours ’ steaming up stream

n h . from Katha to Bhamo, and about ine ours down

1 0A . M Leaving Katha about . we passed the Govern

’ ment of Burma s elephant kheddahs (kheda) on the west bank and reached Moda, thirty miles above

. P M. Katha, in three hours At . we stopped,

- b half way etween Katha and Bhamo, at Shwegu, a

v ff pretty illage with picturesque pagodas, ﬂagsta , and kyo ungs perched up high above the river on a ff i blu from which long ﬂ ghts of wooden stairs, one

’ S -ﬁve with ixty steps, come down to the water s edge,

o and we lay up at Sinkan , bel w the second deﬁle, for off the night . The next morning we put at

- half past ﬁve, but a heavy fog came down at six

’ O u and clock, and we had to cast anchor for an ho r

RANGOON TO BHAMO 49

S a half, and even then could only move lowly ahead , while the Chittagonian leadsman took soundings with his bamboo pole, and sung his droning refrain of E h bahm ham eh p alm one fathom less one

. v palm However, we arri ed at Bhamo fairly early and had nearly the whole day to see the town . C H A P T E R VI

B HAMO A ND TH E I RA WA D I

— - — The road to China The races of Upper Burma Chi n S Shans — — — — Kachi ns Palaungs The river The de ﬁle S The road to — — the Ruby Mines The Mingon bell and pagoda Petroleum .

B HAM O , the ancient capital of the Shan state of

ft cast Manmaw stretches along the le , or , bank of

Irawadi d the for four miles . It contains a mixe

Shan S population of Kachins, Burmans, , and Chinese, 1 9 01 numbering over in , and its population and trade are rapidly increasing owing to its favour able position as the nearest mart on the I rawadi to the Chinese frontier. Three miles above Bhamo the Taping river enters t he Irawadi the , and road into China goes up the Taping valley about 1 25 miles to Mom ien (Teng

- y ueh ting) , where the road from Myitkyina joins .

Tsin ai From Bhamo, which the Chinese call g , by w ay of Mom ien and Ta Li Eu (the Garaj an Of 50

52 T HE ROMANTIC EAST where it is intersected at right angles by Ghat

Road, running east from the ghat, beyond which it is called Chinese Bazaar . Turning down Ghat

Road you come to the police station, two miles from where we left the steamer, and in front of the

i pol ce station is a gilt Buddha.

The dak bungalow, the two forts, one to the east the other to the north , and the station where the caravan merchants from China must leave their i arms on arr val at Bhamo , are all near this centre but more interesting than all of these is the crowd

o u to be seen in the Chinese Bazaar. There y may see warlike Chins from the western mountains,

- clothed only in a tiny loin cloth, and wearing as

- ornaments curious necklaces and ear rings, armed

‘ with bows and arrows , and carrying a small wicker basket slung by a basket - work strap across the

Of shoulder, and perhaps a knife . Some the men have their hair don e up in a conical top - knot decorated with a long feather.

The Shan - Talok women have a useful piece of

S ft ﬁnery in the hape of a large, so , straw hat, which falls gracefully over the Shoulders and is decorated

n with bu ches of straw ribbons . The Kachin women

54 THE ROMANTIC EAST

heads jackets trimmed with cowries and , orna

m ented tameins, and trousers or puttees . Most of them carried a decorated bag hanging from the

- shoulder, and some wore ear cylinders like those

Or of the Kachin women, but their peculiar naments con sist of a bone ring for a necklace and any number of wire rings around the body. Of the latter two or three are usually threaded with

cowries . Similar rings are said to be worn by

Kachin women . Many of these various tribes may be seen on the bazaar boats , which ply up and down the Irawadi carrying retail dealers and their wares from station to station .

u The journey down from Bhamo, prono nced by

b ut E uropeans as it is written, by some of the “ ” B aamboo natives called , is a very interesting

o u r one, and y are made ve y comfortable on the

Flotilla steamers. The distances from station to station as well as the time occupied vary with the amount of water in the river, for even as high up as Myitkyina there is a difference Of forty feet between low water and ﬂood . During the times of ﬂood a straight course can be steered up or down, while in low water the windings of the BHAMO AND THE IRAWA D I 55

ft tortuous and shi ing channel must be followed . The Flotilla Company have men constantly at

O work bserving the changes in the river, and mark ing the navigable channel with bamboo poles tied to sand bags . These poles are painted white or red ; and going down stream the red poles are kept to port and the white to starboard.

When you are stopping at a station the i nhabi tants will afford the greatest interest and amuse ment ; but there are queer craft to be seen all along the river, birds of many kinds, dolphins of sorts which follow the boat and j ump o ut Of the

river like porpoises, and queer ﬁshing appliances . The latter take the form of big nets on bamboo frames hinged to a boat and moved in and out of

a the water by long b mboo levers .

The native boats are mostly dug- outs (lou ng

oh n g ) fashio ed from a single log of teak . To this single log plank Sides are sometimes added to increase the freeboard , and the boat is then called

- a loung sat, and sometimes they are built high at the bow and stern like the proper Burmese rice

h - n aw . boats ( ) The Shans take two dug outs, build

SO a platform over them, and make a catamaran 56 THE ROMANTIC EAST

which is propelled with a paddle or punted with a

pole . Then there are big rafts of teak logs ﬂoating w do n the river, some with as many as four cabins l bui t on them, and we were informed that the Bombay and Burma Trading Company had at the

Irawadi time nearly ﬁfty thousand logs on the , worth from £5 to £7 each . In the season of

1 9 02- 3 , the teak extracted from the Burmese forests was valued at The most common bird on the river is the

- snake bird, a diving bird with black plumage and

- a long snake like neck and head . It usually swims

s S with its body ubmerged, howing only the neck

and head above the surface . Then we saw orioles,

- and orange breasted pigeons, cranes in the water,

- kin fishers big herons in the trees, white breasted g , birds Of a similar appearance with blue wing feathers and back and a black breast” black wading birds with white breasts and white tips to their wings, a bird having a red head with a black comb and a body with black and white stripes, and many species of the hawk tribe. If there are any steam launches at Bhamo it is possible to run up through the first defile and

BHAMO AND THE IRA WA D I 57

back during the day, and we were told that this defile is the finest of the three . The second defile is certainly not as fine as the Rhine or the Moselle, to say nothing of the Hudson ; and the third defile is very much like the Thames at

Cliveden . 1 028 Bhamo is miles from Rangoon by the river, according to the distances given by the Flotilla

Company . Thirty miles down the river is Sawadi

(Kaung Taung) , and between this place and Sinkan,

1 3 . miles below, is the second deﬁle Approaching this the ﬁrst view is similar to that seen coming down the Thames when the Quarry Woods are ff B . seen rising behind isham Then a bold cli ,

8 00 S feet high, with almost perpendicular ides,

c appears to the right, its top overed with trees, and here the river narrows to little more than a hundred yards; Perched on a small hill at the foot ff of the cli is a tiny pagoda, looking very fresh and bright in its framing of green trees . The majestic river ﬂows swiftly between its rock- bound banks in the heart Of a wilderness where modern progress is now represented by the steamer which hurries

S down the stream, and the telegraph wires panning 8 58 THE ROMANTIC EAST the river below from cliff to cliff: In half an hour

we had passed the deﬁle, and in another half hour the river had widened and shoaled so as to be

- again full of sand banks .

We passed Sinkan, Shwegu, and Moda, and between the latter and Katha the Kaukkwe enters di 1 1 0 the I rawa . We did the miles from Bhamo

and to Katha in seven hours a half. Lower down,

K eta aun near y g g, the Shweli enters from the east, and we tied up the ﬁrst night at Tigyaing (Mya

20 e S daung), miles b low Katha, four sailors pring ing overboard and swimming with the rope to

Off the bank . The next morning we cast at nine ’ 3 0 o clock, and in two hours had done the miles

to Tagaung, a very ancient capital of these parts.

An hour later the twin peaks of Shwe - nyaung-bin

3 0 - came into view miles away to the south east.

Twenty miles below Tagaung is Kyanhnyat, an d it is another twenty miles to Male, near where

the hills opposite come down to the river, and ﬁve

miles more to Thabeikkyin, where we arrived at

’ three o clock . This is the landing for Mogok, the capital of the Ruby Mines district where the rubies and sapphires are found . Mogok lies up in the

60 THE ROMANTIC EAST

TO the north is a white pagoda with trees growing

S on it, then comes the great bell, in ize second only to the one in the Kremlin (which weighs about 200 tons) hung on big timbers resting on brick piers, and supported on stones inserted below the lip which measures over 1 6 feet in diameter. The hell 1 2 6 1 2 is nearly feet high , to inches thick, and

8 0 0 Of hell weighs to 9 tons . South the is the 1 6 5 unﬁnished pagoda, a mass of solid brickwork

i 23 0 u S feet h g h and feet sq are, plit from top to bottom by the earthquake of 1 8 3 9 an d torn by thunderbolts, one corner entirely gone and the 450 rest fallen to ruins . It stands on a platform

S i feet quare, and there are over cub c

Of e feet bricks in this unﬁnish d temple, which was begun by King B o - daw - paya in the closing years

e Of the eighteenth c ntury. South of the temple

Sib o on the river bank is the white y pagoda, with w ’ a porch in front and steps do n to the water s edge.

We left the steamer at Mandalay, but one can go all the way from there to Rangoon by the 7 08 1 20 Flotilla, a distance of miles, stopping miles

- down at Nyaungu, noted for its ﬁne basket wares

so - u covered with called lacq er, which is really made W s 65 S h n P hotog raphed by att ee

E A T M GR EAT B LL ING O N .

62 THE ROMANTIC EAST railway may be taken to Rangoon 1 6 1 miles south east .

NOTE TO CHAPTER V

IRAWAD I RIVER

Rangoon Prome Prome Yenangyaung Yenangyaung Yenangyat Yenangyat Nyaungu Nyaungu Mandalay Mandalay Mingon Sheinmaga Sheinmaga Ngasi n gu Ngasingu Kyaukmyaung Kyaukmyaung Mau Mau Kabwet Kabwet Thabeikkyin Thabeikkyin Male Male Kyanhnyat Tigyaing Katha M oda Shwegu Sinkan Sawadi Bhamo

Rangoo n C H AP T E R VII

MANDALAY

’ — The Queen s Golden Monastery Fort Duf—ferin and the Royal Palace The centre of the un iverse King Thebaw and

his Queens .

MANDALAY 1 8 56 the ft of , founded in , on le bank

I rawadi 3 1 5 the feet above the sea, by Mindon

- Min, to day spreads over an area measuring about

mi u six les from north to so th, and three miles

It IS from east to west. laid out on a grand scale, “ with streets running north and south, and “ a and ro ds running east and west, boasts a

- Six double track electric tramway miles long. ff Near the middle of the city is Fort Du erin, “ ” which was formerly called the city, and in the centre of the fort stands the Royal Palace. The most westerly thoroughfare is the Strand Road on the bank of the river, about two miles from the

t u palace. Af er leaving the steamer we drove p 6 3 64 THE ROMANTIC EAST

3 5th 8 4 this road to , or A , Road ; crossed th , or

8 3 rd Payagyi, Street ; , or Merchant, Street ; and 8 turned Up oth , or West Moat, Street to the entrance of the fort . The east and west roads from 22nd Road to 3 oth Road have the following alternative names

l r C Road, Sladen Road, Convent Road, Te eg aph

S Road , B Road (which kirts the south moat of the

a fort) , Browning Road, Cooke Ro d, Fire Station

. 3 6 th Road , and Court House Road In Road, on

’ the way to the fort, we visited the Queen s Golden

Monastery, remarkable for its carved teak railings

’ Thebaw s S u a alat and roofs, erected by Queen , p y , in the early eighties in honour of her mother Queen

Shinbom e . , queen during ﬁve successive reigns There is an instance in former times Of a Burmese queen who was the consort Of four Of the royal

line, and these facts may be adduced as convincing proof of the surpassing charm or exceeding Clever

Shinbom e ness of the women of Burma . Queen ,

- h - Sin um ashin also called the Sin yoo me, the py , or

’ the Laungshe princess, was Mindon Min s chief “ queen and the mother Of Supayagyi the great “ Su a alat princess , p y s the middle princess , and

MAND ALAY 65

“ S upayagale the little princess . When Mindon died Shinbom e Shaped the course of events which

Thebaw brought to the throne, and it was intended that Thebaw Should marry all three of his half

S S u a a i isters, and that p y gy should be the chief

S u a alat Thebaw queen . But p y captured from the

ﬁrst, although in accordance with custom he

S u a a i S u a alat married p y gy two years later, and p y remained his only real wife to the end .

l Of The crenelated brick wal s the fort, which

1 S enclose an area about } miles quare, are surrounded by a broad moat, and crossing this by the bridge facing C Road, we entered the brick gateway and drove through avenues Of tamarind trees to the Upper Burma Club located in the

a Royal P lace . Facing the entrance to the Club which is at the top Of a han dsome ﬂight Of thirteen

u steps, is a cannon built p of bars encircled by bands and having originally ten rings by which it could be carried . Behind the club, whose dining

- room, which was the audience room of the Queen , contains the Lily Throne, is the Great Hall of

Audience with its Lion Throne, now used as a

’ Vi church . Since the Viceroy s sit to Mandalay, 9 66 THE ROMANTIC EAST orders have been issued to move the club and

the church to other quarters , and to restore the

palace to its former condition . Lord Curzon has earned the gratitude of all travellers and students by his efforts to restore and

an d preserve relics of bygone times in India, they will most heartily agree with the address from the managing committee Of the Bombay branch of the “ S Royal Asiatic Society, tendering their incere thanks for all His Excellency has done for the

Of ae cause Indian arch ology, and more especially for the unremitting attention he has paid to the

’ culmin conservation of India s ancient monuments , ating in the much desired Act for their effectual

preservation . Mandalay society was agitated at the time of o ur visit by a circular relating to the Burmese

Of f wives government o ﬁcials, and by the tragedy f 1 3 in Fort Duf erin on the th of December, when a

‘ Punjabi havildar (or sergeant) shot and killed a

British captain and two native ofﬁcers . After t hese murders he succeeded in passing the fort

gates with his riﬂe, and in getting out of Man d alay. He was run down a few miles outside

MANDALAY 67

the city, but committed suicide before he was

captured .

- S Shwe athat The seven roofed pire, or py , called e “ r by the nativ s the centre of the universe, ises

above the Lion Throne . Near this is the Nan

h- Myin, or watc tower, ascended by an outside spiral 1 53 staircase of seven cement and wooden steps, to 8 a platform, 7 feet above the ground , from which an excellent view over Mandalay and the surround ing country can be had . A little to the east of

i i north is seen Mandalay Hill, r s ng to a height of

9 54 . feet above the sea In the opposite direction,

-b - south y east, is the Arakan pagoda near Shanzu

- station . To the south west is the railway station , farther away are the carved roofs of the Queen’ s

Golden Monastery, and the pagodas of Sagaing

- -b appear on the horizon beyond . South west y south may be seen the steeple of a church—which the guide said was the Roman Catholic Cathedral — and in the distant south -west is a peak of the

Shan hills . The various structures Of the royal palace are all built of wood, as indeed were all Burmese buildings except the pagodas ; and owing to the perishable 68 THE ROMANTIC EAST nature Of the materials used little remains of this

but ancient architecture, the forms of it are here

r u l prese ved, altho gh the pa ace, or nandaw, itself is

- S quite modern . The ﬂame haped ornamentations

Of - the eaves, the seven roofed tower, and the teak carvings are the distinctive features of Burmese wooden architecture . The carving is in many cases beautifully done, and is almost always bold

S is and full of pirit . But it too frequently marred by coatings of gaudy colours, and even the gorgeous

' ness Of new gold-leaf is Small compensation for the

S n loss of harp ess . It is no doubt true that the

- Burman can carve as well to day as ever before, but the new carvings to be seen are generally only servile copies Of the Old designs without improve ment or even reﬁnement. Some Of the teak pillars in the Royal Palace h h are fully sixty feet igh , and the over anging eaves of the Lion Throne room are supported by newly

n gilded round timbers, i clined from the base of the building to the outer end Of the eaves in the manner of posts holding out an awning . Close to

- u the watch tower is the theatre, and so th of the

m - latter a swim ing tank . Near this is the summer

MANDALAY 69

house, on the veranda of which is a brass plate with the following legend King Theehaw sat at this opening with hi s two Queens and the Queen Mother when he gave himself up to General 3 0 Prendergast on November , The Queen ” “ Shi nbom e hi s Mother was the masterful , and

, two Queens the neglected S upayagyi and the

Su a alat Thebaw jealous p y , who tyrannised the weak

the to end . Within the fort on the East Palace Road near the East Gate Road is the tomb of Maung Lwin , Th b e aw . Mindon Min , the father and predecessor of

The mausoleum is square with a seven - storied

m Of n pyra idal roof in a perfect state preservatio , every detail being intact, and the gilding as bright as when ﬁrst put on . It is on a white platform, having a rail with an Open l n g In the centre of each

Six face approached by a ﬂight of steps, and the whole has been enclosed with an iron railing to pre i t. serve Near it are other royal tombs, including

’ Mi n don s the tomb of favourite queen, and not far away is the monastery, with its elaborately carved

’ roofs, where Burma s last king was educated . There

o m - is als a assive bell tower but without a bell . C H A P T E R V III — MA NDA LA Y (con ti nu ed) — — Sermons in stones The Ei n dawya pagoda The — — Chinlon A Burmese pwe The Great Temple Maham a i n .

OUTSIDE of Fort D ufferin near the east gate is the

Taikdaw ﬁne old monastery, whose carvings have gone to ruin and whose basements shelter litters Of

- pigs and ﬂocks of rabbit eared goats . Near the base of Mandalay Hill, around which there is a drive, and to the top of which there is more than one ceremonial road , is the enclosure of the

’ Ku thodaw Thebaw s , or Charity pagoda built by

- uncle. The southern entrance has well carved teak 1 00 gates, the central pagoda is feet high , and on the platform was an old boat . Around the 29 central pagoda are arranged 7 square pavilions ,

Of S under each which is an upright lab, like a tombstone, carved from top to bottom with black 70

72 THE ROMANTIC EAST and a staircase to the third terrace up the centre

Of S Of each ide . The base the pagoda is surrounded

by an iron railing, and the shrines and monasteries

S a are relegated to the outer ide of the wide pl tform , so that there is an unobstructed view Of the whole

pagoda from base to ti . On the west side is the 1 8 3 Mahuya Paya brought here from Gaya in 9 . The pag oda platform is a favourite place to hold

a grand pwe, and it is also a great resort for the

Of experts in Burmese football or chinlon, a sort battledore and shuttlecock played with a hollow

wicker sphere and the feet . The ball is thrown in the air and allowed to fall behind the back of the

player, who catches it on the heel or the sole of the

foot before it reaches the ground, and kicks it

straight up into the air . The ball may be caught

in front on the knee or toes, but the back strokes

are more favoured . There are no sides, but the

players stand around near each other, and the one

who ﬁrst fails to send the ball up in the air falls out . A S an exhibition of Skill the game is very interest

ing, and as an exhibition of masculine grace there

is nothing, except skating, with which it can be

compared .

74 THE ROMANTIC EA ST

u loa tune ; and ﬂutes ( p y) , one of which the leader

blows . The Burman comes with his whole family and

their bedding ; and, if he is a connoisseur, before

S paying to see the how, he mounts the steps to the

stage, goes behind the scenes, inspects the per i formers and their state of preparedness, and, f

S satisﬁed, pays the entrance money, preads his mats

S on the ground, and perhaps goes to leep until the

u performance begins, and may do the same d ring the dull parts and intermissions .

The drums begin to play early in the evening, but the usual hours for the performances are from M 1 1 R . to sunrise, with the choice bits coming on

’ about one o clock . The curtain rises on the princess, who gives a dance which will be short if the audience is small, and longer if there are special visitors or the audience is large . She is dressed in a tight

ﬁttin lu n i g, trailing gy , which is sewn on and allows

Of little movement of the legs, although it is open at one side almost to the knee . The bodice is a

ﬂesh- tr icot S - S coloured , with leeves and fan haped d pieces hanging at the back and at each si e. She

Of wears a number of necklaces, generally strings

76 THE ROMANTIC EAST

we s each other at their p , and in the bigger places, l like Mandalay, the various districts ho d their

- u temple pwes in well regulated s ccession . Another form of pwe is the goht - the or marionette

Sh ow . The most venerated of the Mandalay pagodas is the square Arakan pagoda or Paya Gyi, the ” Great Temple, built in seven stories diminishing in size and surmounted by a ﬁne ti . Its base is surrounded by corridors, and has a chamber in each face . The main chamber contains the famous brass

G awdam a Maham an i , , brought over the mountains from Arakan through the Taungup Pass in 1 7 8 7

B O - - - by King daw paya (Mentara gyi) , after the successful campaign by the Crown Prince against 1 8 4 that country in 7 , and ﬁrst housed in a pagoda 1 2 at Amarapura . It is a seated image feet 7 inches

m a aik high to the top of the g , or tiara , and although the Burmese are ﬁrmly convinced that the statue is ' contemporary with the Buddha himself, or at least

B C . not later than the sixth century . , there is no reason to doubt that it was cast i n the second century of our era . It is heavily coated with gold

bu leaf, and you can y one for a rupee , follow the

78 THE ROMANTIC EAST

Mandalay is famou s for its hand - woven silk lungyis, which European ladies buy to make into

S petticoats . The ilk is thin but does not crack, and is said to be improved by washing. The Bazaar,

’ which is most crowded between Six and eight o clock

n e m in the morning, contai s oth r attractions, and any i S nteresting hours may be pent there .

8 0 THE ROMANTIC EAST

2700 Thondaung, feet above the sea, and Maymyo, 3 48 1 feet above the sea, the highest point on the railway.

Double Fairlie - type engines are used to

to haul the trains, but we made very poor time

- Of Maymyo, as the brake blocks on some the passenger carriages worked badly and forced the

u train to pull p more than once. From Maymyo (myo is Burmese for town) to Gokteik viaduct is

the forty miles, and stations on the way with their 2 5 elevations above the sea are Wetwun, 77 feet ; 243 w 2 23 7 . Hsum Hsai, feet ; and Na nghkio, 7 feet Before you arrive at Gokteik you go through a

Of rock cutting, and on coming out the cutting there is a good view of the viaduct and Of the line on the other Side of the gorge going up the face of the cliff and through two tunnels to the table - land

v Of above. But perhaps the best iew the viaduct is from the railway dak bungalow on the hill straight above it. To get a view of the gorge itself you

out r can walk on the viaduct, or take the train farthe ff up the line and see it from the north cli s . The Gokteik gorge is in the North Shan States

- H a on a tributary of the Myit nge, called the Nam p P hotog r ap hed by th e A zt th or TE V UC T— TR PP R C GOK IK IAD AIN A OA HING .

8 2 THE ROMANTIC EAST

n n n o was a great e gineeri g feat, the viaduct does t

add to the n atural beauties of the scene . To visit

the river cave you should wear heavy boots, and if you penetrate into the cave you must not be afraid

S Of a wetting . A long overcoat or a kirt is sure

to come out with wet tails . There is a waterfall

l S - oii ike a hower bath that y must pass through , after entering the cave from whose walls hang small stalactites ; the rock ﬂoor of the cavern is worn into curio us swirls by the action of the

river ; and there is a curve in its course underground,

S O that you cannot see the entrance up stream when

you get to the point where daylight Shows through

the smaller opening at the farther end . You can go down from the dak bungalow to the far end of the cave and back in an hour and a h alf, and in another half hour walk across the top O f the natural bridge by the rough path at the side o f the viaduct piers .

tlfe There is ﬁne scenery on the way to Lashio,

- present terminus of the line, ninety seven miles 3 0 beyond Gokteik and 1 0 feet above the sea . The r 1 9 03 h oad was completed in to Lashio, from whic i t is ni nety -ﬁve miles by a fair road to Kunlong S n P hotog r ap hed by IVa tts er hee — E N T RANCE OF CAVE GOK T E IK VIADU CT .

8 4 THE ROMANTIC EAST

appreciated by many tourists, who would then be less likely to m iss a chance Of seein g the ﬁnest bit of scenery on the Burma railways . The railway has Shown an enlightened liberality in erecting a comfortable dak bungalow at Gokteik, which can be occupied free of charge ; but there is no food to be had there unless you give a day ’ s notice to the

Of m manager the refreshment room at May yo , who will then make arrangements to provide meals . Maymyo has a very ﬁne new dak bungalow on

Lodge Road , about a quarter of a mile from the

18 station . The town still only a straggling village, but h it is rapidly growing, and is hig ly thought of

- as a sanatorium and hot weather resort .

On Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays , steamers sail each way between Rangoon and Moulmein ,

’ and at Six O clock in the morning we cast Off from the Mogul Street jetty for Moulmein, where we

- i 1 40 arrived at half past four. The d stance is miles,

Of and crossing the Gulf Martaban you sight, on the Tenasserim coast, Double Island light and the

off t Water pagoda Amherst, the latter named af er the Lord Amherst who was Governor- General of d In ia when this coast, which extends south to GOKTEIK 8 5

Of Victoria Point within ten degrees the equator,

m Of was annexed . Entering the outh the Salwin ,

w New locally kno n as the Moulmein , river by the

- 1 8 3 Channel, the Kwang la pagoda, feet high , is

Of seen four m iles to the north Amherst. Moulmein is nearly twenty - ﬁve miles from the ﬁrst buoy in the entrance to the New Channel, and on the way u p Long Island, Mupun Island (both in mid stream) ,

Of and New Island, to the west the channel , are passed . Just above Moulmein three rivers meet

m the the Salwin co ing from the north, Gyaing

A ttaran the from the east, and the from south F . rOm Old east Martaban , the Talaing capital

O D arebank pposite Moulmein, the or Martaban

Of Of river, really one the mouths the Salwin , runs w west to the gulf, and forms ith the Moulmein

B alu n river the island of gyu . Between Moulmein an d Martaban lies the small island of G o ungzay

o un gy with its little pagoda . C H A P T E R X

MOU LBI E I N

’ — — The Duke s Head The great Moulmein pagoda The bell s I or r r — o—A o r S r v y ca ve s Kad m de n h ine .

TH E - n o Toung gy hills, which form the backbone

Of Moulmein , are covered with green, crowned with

S . pagodas , and fringed with hops and warehouses

v The town itself looks ery pretty from a distance, although in reality it is very dirty and shabby and the pagodas are more picturesque as seen from the river than they are upon a closer inspection . Of the Moulmein pagodas the most northerly is

the h Great Pagoda, sout of this are Old Pagoda, i S nal P a oda ff , g / g with a ﬂagsta and Uzina or South

- Pagoda, while to the south west of these is Mupun

Pagoda . The two largest pagodas Show up well

Sk - against the y line, and in the distant north , forty

u miles p the river, a mountain peak called the 8 6

8 8 THE ROMANTIC EA ST

- repainted , the shrine at the north west base contains a gilded and glass - jewelled Buddha with a Silk

- drapery, while the shrine at the south west base covers a Similar Buddha and four others standing in various attitudes, each with a chhatra over his head, as well as eight seated Buddhas and two kneeling elephants . On the southern edge of the platform is a pavilion covering a number of carved and painted wooden ﬁgures, some of them, such as the four beggars, being very ﬁne indeed . The Signal pagoda and the Old pagoda are

K aikthanlan uninteresting ; but the y , or Great,

Off pagoda, has more to er to the curious, although the gilt on the pagoda itself and on the small pagodas and Shrines surrounding i ts base is much tarnished and worn away. Mounting to the plat form by the southern stairway and turning to the

- n right, you come at the south east cor er to the famous bell hanging from a beam supported by four pillars . Around the bell is inscribed This

Bell is made by KOO Na Lin Gah Yah the priest

NO and weight 6 00 viss . one body design to

I a h 0 u h rc 3 1 8 55 . destroy this Bell. Ma lmain , ,

He who destroyed to this Bell, they must be in

90 THE ROMANTIC EAST

- mirrors and coloured glass work . A similar glass work pedestal supports one reclining and six seated B uddhas in the Shrine at the south end Of the platform . Perhaps the most satisfactory thing about

Kyaikthanlan is the view from the Sides Of its

Of platform . The ridge hills runs due north and south , and the pagoda is built on the most northern

A ttaran eminence . To the east can be seen the

- river, and farther away to the north east the Farm

Of Cave hills. Part Moulmein lies to the north

Of Of and east the pagoda, but most the population live on the west Slope of the ridge . The view on the north is bounded on the east Side Of the Salwin

’ Zwekabin by the range, of which the Duke s Head w is the most esterly peak, while to the west of the

Salwin, north of Moulmein, are the Zingyaik hills.

At the base of the pagoda to the north- west lies the jail, which contains nothing of interest, and across the river is Martaban . To the south is the

d on i -k oun s line of pago as and p gy y g on the ridge,

- and to the. south west of them the Myango on pagoda with curious images of tattooed n ats guard ing its entrance. P hotog r aphed by th e A a tho r L KADO ANDING .

92 THE ROMANTIC EAST

u passed the ho se of Maung Shwe Hla, the present head Of the family to whom Kado owes its religous

buildings and its consequent fame. The buildings

Of were erected at the end the last century, and the workmanship displayed, in reproducing the Old forms as well as the elaboration of the

details, is as good as can be seen anywhere in

Burma . TO the right on entermg the enclosure is a large building containing a hall with a ceiling Of twelve coff ers decorated with coloured glass and supported

by eight pillars with capitals Of gl ass mosaic . The shrine has before it a pair of curtains embroidered

with peacocks in Shwechido work of gold and Silver

thread and Spangles . All this is in good (Burmese)

b ut taste, the jarring modern note is simultaneously “ Of struck by over a dozen American ﬁce clocks,

Of all the same pattern and make, which ornament

i TO - Of the p llars and walls . the north east this

u b ilding is an octagonal pagoda with a gilded top . th In front of e pagoda is the usual bell, and to the south of it is a building with an octagonal fore porch and a connecting gallery decorated with

paintings . Instead Of a Shrine is a large glass case P hotog r ap hed by th e A utho r H R E ON R T H E OF S IN S NO SID KADO PAGODA .

9 4 THE ROMANTIC EAST

Of m i n a ﬂoor arble and encaustic tiles laid squares , ff and a ceiling with nine co ers , also supported so as

the The S to admit light from under eaves . hrine

Si x has pillars encrusted with glass, and contains two standing images of heroic size robed in gilt and jewelled gowns, while at their feet kneel three

worshippers, also in gilt and jewelled robes . This group is supposed to represent Maung Shwe H la

and his father and uncle, the builders of the shrines,

and their tutelary deities . The easternmost Shrine contains a brass Buddha seated on a pedestal of coloured glass mosaic before

Of a background glass and gold . To the north of

S on i - these three hrines is a p gy kyoung, and scat

tered about the grounds are dwelling - places and

other conveniences for the priests and caretakers

of the temple . C H A P T E R X I

CHR I STMAS IN BURMA — Christmas Eve smoking concert Christmas at the Farm Caves — ’ - Ran goon to Chittagong New Year s Day at Akyab .

TH E Sights Of Moulmein and Kado were seen on

Boxing Day. On Christmas Eve we were invited to the Amateur Smoking Concert at Mo ulmein

Of Gymkhana Hall, where the microcosm Moulmein

u be society co ld seen in its entirety, for the audience and the Singers represented every branch Of the

business and social life of Moulmein . Social lines

‘ “ are less rigidly drawn here than in India proper, and Europeans, Eurasians, and Asiatics mix pretty freely in these functions . The government, the

a S gre t trading companies, the hipping interests,

ﬁnance, the law, the medical profession, the army, and the visitors had all at least one representative

on the programme. It was only near the end that 95 96 THE ROMANTIC EAST the audience warmed up and entered heart and lungs into the choruses, but enthusiastic applause ” Of E n - and shouts caw, caw, caw, greeted the end ” Of CrOws There were Three , after which we rose ” S to ing God Save the King, before adj ourning to the bar for a stirrup - cup and the exchange Of “ ” hearty wishes for A Merry Christmas . Then we arranged a picnic for the following day to the Farm Caves , and went back to our bunks on

board ship . We were awakened from sweet dreams by the ﬂash Of a lantern and a Sharp command from a $ strange voice to Get up, mister, and come out In answer to our dazed Who are you the reply

’ SO came, Father Christmas, don t delay. we

- crawled out from under the mosquito nets , and went on deck in pyjamas to ﬁnd all hands forward

” ’ to Splice the main brace . The captain s health

was duly drunk in champagne with musical honours, some other pleasant compliments Of the season

passed, and when we again retired to our cabins it

was Some wee short hour ayont the twal .

h O i C ristmas morning pened in br lliant sunshine, and after breakfast we started for the Farm or

CHRISTMAS IN BURMA 97

- Ka yon Caves . The English name is supposed to

P haru have been derived from the Shan word m .

- Ka yon is the Burmese name . There were eight of

us - , three fourths being undoubted Scots from whom we gathered that India had been mainly colonised from Scotland, and was now chieﬂy managed by the abilities and for the beneﬁt of North Britain .

We Spent a full eight- hour day on our picnic away from the ship, but as an excursion it could be done in a couple of hours less. First we drove about

u — Ni o un b enzi ak fo r miles to g , where there is a

A ttaran — i h ferry over the river gharries, and the Moulmein gharries are perhaps the cheapest

a h ckney carriages in the world . The legal fare by day IS three annas the first mile and two annas for t each mile af er the first, or eight annas for the first

e hour and six for ach succeeding hour. By the

u - half day of ﬁve ho rs the fare is twenty four annas,

Of r and by the day ten hou s, forty annas. Think of a legal fare Of three shillings and fourpence without tips for a ten - hour day $ There are even cheaper cabs for poor folk and better ones, they say, but we saw none Of the latter ; and we were quite prepared to believe that living is cheap in Moulmein . 13 98 THE ROMANTIC EAST At the village on the farther bank of the

A ttaran ox - we found the carts, which we had engaged by messenger the previous evening, and

Of alf started on a j olting drive an hour and a h , along a road lined for the most part with pahn d trees, to the entrance of the ﬁrst cave. The roa

u s f r ns eastward as a dyke, across ﬂat ﬁeld , rom a hill with three pagodas to the range of knife - edge l rocks, rising precipitously from the p ains, in which the caves are found, and there was a bad break 6 a in this dyke between the } and t milestones . Except for this short distance the road was quite

u good eno gh for bicycling, and the four miles or so from the ferry could be easily done in thirty

ﬁve minutes .

A ttaran S The river is in ight to the south , and j ust beyond the 8 % milestone from Mouhn ein a road

Off a branches to the south from the main ro d, c rosses a little nullah by a bridge and leads to the

- - caves. The knife edge range runs north west to

- south east, and on the most northern point is a small pagoda reached from the east side by a series ff of ladders up the face of the cli s . The entrance t o the ﬁrst cave is approached by a ﬂight of steps

IN 99 CHRISTMAS BURMA , leading to a platform on which stands a small

- S Of pagoda, and at the right hand ide the pagoda

S Of ff is a gallery, running along the ide the cli ,

G awdam as containing many gigantic , as well as another pagoda. The cave itself runs almost due ff north into the cli s, and its mouth has a small dome carved out of the rock above, lined with

Of G awdam as concentric circles tiny , while through out the entire length of the cave are two rows of

O i n sitting and recumbent Buddhas . An pening

- the left hand row leads into a lofty cave, lit from

O i In ff above by an pen ng the cli , and at the far end of this cave is a ladder about ten feet long up to a sort of cave or tunnel into the rock . After having discussed the contents of our tifﬁ n baskets, presided over by the only lady of

n the party, and made great inroads , notwithstandi g

u her protests, into the store of liq id refreshments, “ uld S n c we sang A Lang y , and then it was discovered that none of the Scots knew that the

’ last line Of the ﬁrst verse reads And days O lang syn e whereas the ﬁrst line of the refrain is “ . Of For auld lang syne, my dear The poet the party composed the following parody 100 THE ROMANTIC EAST

Old o l o By the M u mein pag da, oo r to L king westwa d the sea, r are r r The e Bu mese gi ls a plenty, r for But they have n o cha m me . o r Th ugh the temple bells keep inging, Yet they only seem to say o r own are for Y u kind all time, f And these but or a day . On ro to the ad Mandalay, o r Which is q uite an the way, ’ You ll get very hot and dusty r From Rangoon by t ain all day.

o r of Ship me s mewhe e west Suez, Where my mother- tongue is Spoke And they raise an awful rumpus At each commandm ent broke r foo Whe e the d is clean and tasty, r r Whe e the bedding is all ight, ’ r r r o o Whe e the wate s pu e and wh les me, ’ A OIIr r nd y sweethea t s skin is white, ’ Which it ain t in Mandalay, Where you buy a wife and pay By agreement with h er mother I r n the usual Bu mese way.

After making a careful examination of the cave,

- ( we walked about half a mile by a rough cart road

- to the Sad dan cave . The entrance to this cave, or

u Of rather series of caves, is much higher p the face

ff . the cli In addition to the entrance, which is approached by steep steps and which faces nearly

- east, there is another opening facing north east,

CHRISTMAS IN BURMA 101

a t Of which is screened by tattered cur ain rock,

the and serves as a window to light large cave . The

main trend Of the underground galleries is here

u north and south . We thoro ghly explored these

u galleries, following each ramiﬁcation ntil it got too

small to proceed farther, and lighting up the vaults

far above with magnesium lights and rockets, to the inﬁnite disgust Of the birds and the wild terror

o f the bats who ﬂew overhead in thousands . The caves were quite dry and free from damp in almost

every part, and are decorated throughout with “ ” - stalactites, stalagmites, rock falls, and in places

u Of with h ge roots trees, which have pierced the roofs of the caves and come straight down through

the air to strike into the ﬂoors .

As we came from the ferry in the morning, we noticed by the Side Of the road the carcase of a cow just dead , and saw the vultures gathering for the feast ; on our return four hours later only the big

rib bones, picked clean, were left. A solitary grey

adj utant stork with white legs and fawn - coloured

Of feet, and a neck almost as bare as those the

vultures, seemed to have been assisting them . The t adjutan is a bird as tall as a man, and the under 102 THE ROMANTIC EAST feathers of the wings and tail are the marabou

feathers of commerce .

While waiting for the ferry, we watched a party

of small boys playing marbles for pice, and found

they were well provided with these copper coins . The marble is held between the tips of the thumb

and the foreﬁnger of the right hand, and shot out

Of with the middle ﬁnger the left hand . We returned to the boat for a Christmas dinner of roast

- d turkey, plum pudding, and mince pies, and ﬁnishe

- up with a water melon, which only faintly recalled the ﬂavour of the American variety. The thermo i ° i n the . cab n 9 0 meter registered during the day, and this was the highest point it reached during ou r tour in India .

From Moulmein we returned to Rangoon , and at Rangoon took the coasting steamer for Chitta t gong . Most touris s would be well advised to go

i Ra if d rect from ngoon to Calcutta, even they intend to visit friends in Assam , as some days are

u lost in making the voyage p the Arakan coast, and the railway into the country from Chittagong is inconvenient and Slow .

a e 28 However , we left R ngoon on D cember ,

104 THE ROMANTIC EAST

S Akyab , ituated on an island , is the third port t in Burma, ranking af er Rangoon and Moulmein . The distances logged between Sandoway and “ n Kyaukpyu vary, accordi g to whether the inside ” “ 8 8 1 43 or outside course is taken, from to miles . 3 6 4 But from Rangoon to Sandoway is miles , and from Kyaukpyu to Akyab 8 8 miles ; while from 1 9 4 Akyab to Chittagong is miles , and from Chit 3 8 tagong to Calcutta 7 miles . The harbour of Akyab i s protected by a line of reefs, on which is placed the Savage Island light house, and is entered by a narrow channel . The

ﬁshin - t scenery is very pretty, the g boa s with matting sails very quaint, and the natives have the Chinese custom Of painting eyes on their sampans . The t ancient capital of Arakan, Myohaung , lies ﬁf y

- miles to the north east on the Kaladan river .

- Akyab boasts a club, a clock tower, a racecourse, and Since 1 8 77 a municipal bazaar . There you can

Spend hours watching the people in their various occupations and aff airs .

e u W left A kyab harbo r about noon on Monday,

2 1 9 05 m - January , , and after stea ing twenty nine miles had Oyster Rock light abeam . The next

C H AP T E R XII

A SSAM

— — — Chittagong The Assam- Bengal railway Big game The — — planters The romance of Assam The tea industry

TH E most prominent buildings in Chittagong are

Of Of - the ﬁces the Assam Bengal Railway, on the

Of top one hill ; and, on the top of another, the

- Ofﬁce - all post , circuit court, and dak bungalow,

under one roof. Chittagong presents no special

feature of interest ; but it is the headqu arters of

the race of lying, quarrelsome, Moslem boatmen

Of and longshoremen employed in the Bay Bengal, t along its coasts, and up the rivers emptying in o

S it, as the Lascars are imilarly employed in the

Arabian Sea . There are no European books on

a nd sale in Chittagong, nor any newspapers ; it

appears that the ticket - seller at the railway station

’ - does not even read his company s time tables, as he 1 06 ASSAM 107

said he had never heard of, or sold a ticket to ,

Kam dha 46 0 m arban . Ali, a station iles from Chitta gong u p the main line. The Assam - Bengal railway is a metre - gauge line open from Chittagong to Tinsukia in the 574 Brahmaputra valley, a distance of miles , with branches aggregating about 1 6 5 miles in length .

In addition to the very exceptional damage, amount ing to over it received in the earthquake 1 2 1 8 9 7 1 500 r of June , , when over people we e

i s u killed in Assam , the railway s bject to annual fﬁ damage during the rains in the di cult hill section , and elsewhere on the line . For it must be remem bered that one place in the Khasi Hills north - west

’ Of the railway holds the world s record for rainfall, and after the rains trains are liable to interruptions, even if the line is not in places entirely carried away, and constant labour is required to keep the line in working condition . The closest connection we could make involved

Of SO a wait eight hours at Laksam Junction , we took the train down to Chandpur on the east bank of the Meghna, one of the great rivers formed by the junction of the Ganges and the B rahm aput 108 THE ROMANTIC EAST

waited f or There we the Calcutta mail, which comes

our down by steamer from Goalundo , and had

dinner in the restaurant - car on the way back to

Laksam . During the night we skirted the western

n and norther borders of Hill Tippera, and the next day was Spent i n traversing the hill section between

Badarpur, the junction for the Silchar branch , and

G . Lumding, the j unction for auhati After crossing

‘ the Surma river the line goes up t he Jatinga river

valley amid hills to Damchara . The section between this station and Lumding was Open for

f l st Of 1 9 03 tra ﬁc on the December . The railway

J atin a ﬁrst follows the right bank of the g , which

- runs between heavily wooded hills, and the scenery

begins to be very pretty. All along the railway are posts Showing the

- the miles and quarter miles from Chittagong, and

tunnels are also numbered ; No . 2 being at the

- 2 2n d NO . 3 7 mile post, and goes through a land

S . lip Farther on, near another landslip, was the

Of wreck a recently derailed train . There was a

Of hot controversy as to the cause the accident,

S S u ome ascribing it to excessive peed, others to fa lts

be in the permanent way. However that may , the

ASSAM 109

railway cuttings are certainly too steep, and work is going on all along this section reducing their pitch . The natives work with a sort of hoe called

khodali a , and are usually armed with a big knife

S ll imilar to the Burmese dha, which they ca a dao . The valley broadens between the 278 th post and

H aran a ao 28 2nd 28 3 rd g j , which is between the and 48 9 post, where the rail level is feet above the sea . There is plenty Of big game to be found in

Assam , including rhinoceros, elephant, leopards,

ff . the wild bu alo , and tigers Shortly before we came through, a man had been found dead on the railway, mauled by a tiger, and we saw at H arangajao the body of a leopard which was killed on the line only a few hours before we arrived there . At this station two engines are attached to the train , one in front and one in back, and the real ascent begins . The gradient most of the way is 1 3 7 in , and there is a succession of tunnels and

u viaducts p to the summit, which is in tunnel No . 1 5 , j ust before Jatinga station in the Cachar hills 29 4th 1 8 55 ( mile) , where the rail level is feet above the sea . The hills are less thickly wooded on the

S other ide of the watershed, but there is more 1 10 THE ROMANTIC EAST

timber after Mahur. There are other streams to

u cross and further tunnels ntil, after threading

. 3 2 No , the line runs through a level j ungle of

- bamboos and pampas grass to Langting (3 43 miles) . Three miles farther on there is a grave covered with a white marble cross by the Side of the line.

t n Af er Lumding , where we cha ged into the

- dining car, the railway goes across country to

D han si ri t he D hansi ri station , and then down valley. After Manipur Road , from where there is a cart - road to Man ipur going south - west to Kohima and then south, the railway runs in the Sibsagar district with the Naga hills lying to the east . It was

’ about three O clock in the morning when we pulled

u Kam arban dha ( p at Ali station , where we found

- kind friends whose tea gardens are in this district .

Life in a bungalow on an Assam tea - garden is very much the same as it is in other remote districts in India . There are the same heavy risks to life and health taken lightly, and the same social

clOse trivialities taken seriously . There is the “ clinging to the customs and habits of home, together with a quickened ingenuity in adapting

’ ad the local conditions to one s wants , or in apting

ASSAM 11 1

o oneself to the local conditi ns . Of far deeper interest is the growth of the industry which has

the made possible these homes in wilderness.

Of The romance of Assam is a romance commerce, the history of a savage country brought under

civilised rule through the cultivation , by alien

u . labo r, of a single product It is true that Chittagong and part Of the western districts of Assam were under a ° settled government long before

i n - tea was grown the Brahmaputra valley, and it is t rue that oil and coal are found beneath the surface O f the land upon which the Assamese grows for his a own needs bundant crops of rice. But in Spite

O f its other resources, the upper Brahmaputra would probably have been left in the undisturbed possession Of the native tribes if it were not f or - the discovery of the native tea plant, and the

- ultimate establishment of the tea gardens . The t e a- gardens are to Assam what the sugar - plantations a re to the Hawaiian Islands, the source of its exports, its commercial prosperity, and its wealth . 1 8 23 d In Mr . Robert Br ce heard that a tea plant ﬁfteen to twenty feet high , with a leaf nine i nches long, was to be found growing wild in the 1 12 THE ROMANTIC E AST

Of 1 8 24 j ungles Assam, and in his brother, Mr .

S C . A . Bruce, sent pecimens to the government botanist at Calcutta . The botanist said the plant

S was a pecies of camellia, which was quite true, but he failed to recognise in it the tea camellia. Six years after Burma had ceded its A ssamese territory an Ofﬁcer was sent to report on its

i hi s possib lities, and Bruce again brought forward camellia and insisted that it was tea . Two years

’ later the government botanist admitted that Bruce s plant was the tea camellia, a committee was formed, and the ﬁrst tea-garden was Opened by the Indian

Government in 1 8 3 5 in Lakhimpur. One pound Of tea made from the indigenous leaf was sent from this garden in the following year.

In 1 8 40 the Assam Company was formed, and the Government turned over its experimental garden at Jaipur to the Company . The intro duction Of the Chinese tea - plant into India by

b n 2000 Ro ert Fortune, a other Scot, who imported tea - plants and sprouting seeds into the

- e 1 8 51 North W st Provinces in , and the employ

the ment of Chinese experience, and above all

the experiments in cultivation of hybrids, placed

ASSAM 1 13

the cultivation upon a solid basis . The tea industry

is also indebted to Sir Joseph Banks, to Colonel

K d Of . y the Calcutta Botanical Gardens, and to Dr William Jameson of the Sararunpur Gardens for

earlier experiments, as well as to Lord William f 1 8 53 Bentinck for O ﬁcial encouragement . In the

Of 1 8 6 0 weight crop was about pounds, in the tea grown in Assam and the rest Of India had r1sen 1 9 02 to about a million pounds, and in out of acres Of tea cultivated in the whole of

India Assam accounted for about acres ; and out of a total production of less than 1 9 0

d Of million poun s weight leaf in that year, Assam 1 3 2 grew over million pounds . While the seed trees in the nurseries grow to

Of 1 5 20 the height or feet, the plant from which the leaf is plucked is seldom allowed to 5 6 exceed or feet, and in the winter is pruned

Of the down to a couple feet from ground, or in

Off o extreme cases cut close to the r ots . In former times the bushes were grown as close together as

3 i n feet, parallel lines crossing at right angles,

SO that four plants would form the corners Of a 3 - foot square : now they are planted 6 feet 1 5 1 14 THE ROMANTIC EAST

apart in diagonal lines, so that three plants occupy 6 the angles Of an equilateral triangle Of feet. m Like the com on English and Japanese camellias,

- the ﬂower Of the tea plant has no scent. Al l through the East, from India to Japan, tea

cha chha Of is known as (or ) , the pronunciation the

Chinese ideograph in the Mandarin dialect, and

the European name comes from the same ideograph ,

which is pronounced in the Amoy or Fuh - Kien

dialect te (tag) . The tea industry in Assam has had to face

many problems . The labour problem was one

which early became a vital question, as the natives of Assam were quite content to cultivate the

easily - grown rice and mustard which sufﬁced for

their limited wants ; and coolie labour, imported

from Chhota Nagpur and other over - populated

u districts in India, became a necessity which ca sed

many difﬁculties . We were told that people imported from India are engaged in

the Assam tea industry, and the total number d employe in and around the gardens was , according

Of 1 9 01 Of to the census , whom

or nearly half, were females . Then the ﬁxing of

C H A P T E R XIII

A SSA M—conti nued — — Climate The Brahmaputra from Nigri Tin g to Dubri A — — mourn ful river Birds The new province of Eastern Bengal

and Assam .

T HE RE seems to be no question that the climate Of the Brahmaputra Valley is very trying to

u n E ropea s in the rains ; but in the cold weather,

n except for the morning fogs, nothi g could be

m a pleasanter. It may or y not be foggy in the

n C early mor ing, but after hhota hazri , which in Assam means not the cup taken on rising but the big English breakfast, the sun is sure to come out and the temperature ri se to between 6 0° 70° 40° and in the shade, to fall again to at night.

nl Not o y is the temperature pleasant, but the air

n is bracing and surprisi gly clear . And the clear

- ness of this air is very deceptive. The snow clad 11 6

118 THE ROMANTIC E AST round numbers used in giving the distance from

station to station on the river .

From Nigri Ting, where we embarked for our journey down the Brahmaputra, to Dhubri is 3 25 l about mi es, and we were made comfortable on

Mi n hla Of the , the best boat the Indian General

’ Navigation and Railway Company s river ﬂeet . In Spite of the great variety of bird life the

I rawadi Brahmaputra seems, as compared with the ,

to be rather a mournful river. Wading birds, from

the big herons, cranes, and storks to the little white — herons and egrets whose feathers, assumed only at

the nesting season, make the fashionable ospreys — or aigrettes are seen everywhere . The brilliant

- Indian oriole or mango bird and the maina, a

Of member the starling family, ﬂash through the

- air, snake birds cover the water, and the house

crows and jungle - crows haunt the landing - places ; but for the ﬁrst day hardly a boat is seen on the

Of river, nor, except the temporary huts the water

the . men, a single human habitation on banks

The landing - places have sometimes a moored

ﬂat alongside which the steamer makes fast, and at other places the steamer ’ s nose is merely pushed

1 20 THE ROMANTIC EAST

below Rangamati, and on the south bank to a point about 25 miles below Gauhati . At Sil Ghat the hills come down to the river, in which some

. 7 5 rocks are seen for the ﬁrst time Tezpur, miles below Nigri Ting, is built on a rocky bank, and from the steamer you can see permanent buildings and a railway. The second night we arrived at 7 5 Gauhati, about miles below Tezpur, Peacock Island and the wooded hills on both banks being

dimly seen in the dusk . Tezpur has been identiﬁed “ ” S on it ur Of with p , the city blood, of the ancient

legendary period .

Of Gauhati is a busy place, the terminus the i branch railway and the station for Sh llong, the administrative headquarters of the Assam Govern

S d 6 3 ment, ituate miles by road south in the 5000 Khasi Hills, on a plateau nearly feet above 1 6 1 9 05 the sea . Here, on the th of October , was published a Gazette extraordinary announcing the creation of the new province Of Eastern Bengal and Assam under a Lieuten ant - Governor and a

Legislative Council . The new province, which was formed in Spite Of the organised Opposition Of

’ the Bengali Babus, combines Assam s square

122 THE ROMANTIC EAST

south , and the Bhutan Hills to the north , and at

’ 4 O clock we arrived at Dhubri . There we saw evidence of the great Bengal jute industry, and of the minor one Of brickmaking . Having sent a

- request, in advance, to the station master, we found

Silli uri attached to the train a through carriage for g , where we arrived early the next m orning on the way to Darjiling . Ten weeks later, after having been as far north as the Khaibar Pass, we left

Rawal Pindi for Kashmir.

NOTE TO CHAPTER XIII

TIME- TAB LE B RAHMAPUTRA RIVE R TEAMER WINTER 1 04 - 5 S S , , 9

D B D ak Bun a ow . . g l . E H Re Hou se . . st .

T e e ra fﬁce . . T O . l g ph O

Down Riv er

h r r D i bru u r . l st . . Day g (Dib uga h) , D B

D ehin gm uk h (Dihingmukh) . D an m kh e s u . . g ( Disangmukh) , R H D ekum ukh ( D ikhum ukh) J han sim ukh (J anji m ukh) Kolom abari ( Kam labari )

k lam ukh o D B . 2 Ko e e . n d . Day ( K kilamukh) ,

i i n H . N ri t r E. g g (Nig i Ting) , r E H Dhansi imukh, . . G am i ri ghat ( Gom i ri Ghat) B h lim kh e a u . , R . H

O . Bishnath (Biswanath) , T . ASSAM 123

Down River B Silghat, D . .

r . Tezpu , D B . Sin grighat (Singari Ghat)

Ran am ati hat . . g g , R H Gauhati Sualkuchi ( Saulku si) la h i P r T Po s b ar . O . ( alasba i) , Kholaban dha

4 h o t Day. Dalg ma T o r O . G alpa a, . Bil ashipari (Bilasipara) D r . R. Dhub i Ghat, h a h n T. 5t . J an n at u e O . Day g g g , S ra D e un r E. e . jg g (Si ajganj) ,

o o T. O . G alund ,

Goalundo Dhubri Gha t Polashbari Tezpur Dhansirimukh D esan gm ukh

D ibrughur C H AP T E R XIV

TH E R OAD TO KA S HMIR

— — — The Happy Valley The city Of Sri D hanjl bhoy and Son A — — tramp in the snow Murree Kohala Bridge

HE RE — the T are three Kashmirs the state, valley, and the city. The state of Kashmir had a popu lation in 1 9 01 Of over of whom all but

S Kashur peak , as the Kashmiri language is called, while the territories of the Maharaja of

Jammu and Kashmir, including Malakand, Chitral,

Of and adjoining districts, cover an area

Of square miles, and contain inhabitants, whom over ninety per cent are Mohammedans, f nearly all O the Sunni sect . “ The Happy Valley Of Kashmir lies at a 6 000 mean elevation of about feet above the sea, 200 the lowest point being about 5 feet . The ﬂoor of the valley is about 8 5 miles long and 1 24

1 26 THE ROMANTIC EAST

The road into Kashmir by the Jchlam river is

D han ibho Messrs . j y and Son, the Imperial Carry

D ha i m . n bho g Company, Limited, writ large j y,

the mail agent and proprietor of the tonga service,

Of Of has the manners a diplomat, the powers an

S autocrat, and the inherited hrewdness of the Parsi .

” - Son is still in leading strings . At ﬁrst we were told that we must give up the road by way of

Murree owing to the heavy snowfall, and make

’ Special arrangements for conveyances by way Of

- Hasan Abdal and Abbottabad . The time table

—ﬁrst 42 by the latter route would have been day,

miles from Hasan Abdal to Abbottabad ; second 1 6 1 8 day, miles to Mansira ; third day, miles to

H abib ulla 22 m 9 8 Garhi ; fourth day, iles, or miles in all, to Domel, where the road joins the one from Murree ; and three more days to do the 1 1 0 miles to Srinagar . D hanjibhoy ﬂattered our vanity by Observing that three such ﬁne young men would probably not mind the hardships of the Murree route to

Of Srinagar, which he, on second thoughts, was the Opinion we might reach in four days . The

a S u usu l time is ixty ho rs, including stoppages for P hotog rap hed by th e A utho r T T E T E E OU R ONGA WI H LUGGAG I D OU TSID .

128 THE ROMANTIC EAST

we must take all risks . It is only fair to say that he carried out his part of the contract as well as could be expected . It is true that one Of his

n Of u tongas broke dow , that the drivers were h

Of equal ability, that most the ponies were j ibbers , and one pair of them proved unmanageable and detained us in the road for a couple Of hours ; but such experiences are common to all travellers by road . In order to visit Kashmir it is provided that a pass shall be procured from the Assistant Resident in Kashmir, who lives in Srinagar, and when apply ing by letter for such a pass you are required to state your rank or profession and the object Of

S your visit ( port, health, pleasure, or business) . The real Object Of the pass is to bring you under

Of O the control the Resident, by btaining your

O agreement to bserve the conditions and rules,

e which have not otherwise the forc of laws, con sidered necessary for the preservation of game, the

Of Of maintenance order, and the fostering good

Of relations with the natives . Owing to delay mails on the road our passes had not arrived before

ft an we started, so we le without having y, and THE ROAD TO KASHMIR 129

when we reported ourselves at Srinagar were informed it would hardly be necessary for uS to

have a pass for the short period Of our stay .

- a Murree lies to the north east of R wal Pindi,

and is about 73 00feet above the sea . The distance 3 7 is usually given as miles, but Murree extends over nearly 6 miles from the brewery to the south

end of the Kuldanna cantonment, so that the 3 5 distance is sometimes given at , and sometimes

0 5 6 l O at 4 miles . Every or mi es there is a relay f

Six horses, and the change is made in from two to minutes ; anything over three minutes being con

i S d k s dered . a low A relay is called a , and the word is commonly used in India to denote the

Of distance between relays or the length a journey.

The ﬁr st dak out Of Rawal Pindi is j ust over 6 miles , and the road seems to go slightly downhill .

Half- way between the ﬁr st and second daks the

“ road is fairly level, and at a bridge across the l stream we saw a large caravan of came s . After the second dak there is a Short ascent over a

Of range of hills , and a descent about a mile to the bridge at the stone marking the distance from 1 3 3 1 3 3 Rawal Pindi as , or miles and furlongs . 17 1 3 0 THE ROMANTIC EAST

From this bridge to the third dak at the 1 7th

milestone, where toll has to be paid, the road is h w mostly up ill, with vie s to the right over the

hills ; but 6 furlongs beyond this dak the road 2 descends to a stream , and then comes miles ascent and a mile downhill to the bridge over 04 the stream at 2 . The bridges crossed from time to time are over the tributaries and main stream of the Karung river, whose valley the road follows up to Tret .

Ascending through tree - covered Slopes for about a mile, we arrived at the fourth dak ; and at the

22n d milestone, where the road is high above

r1ver the , there are views behind us over the

l us distant hills, and be ow of the road by which

we had come . Then we descend to another bridge

Of and go up the left bank the stream, ascending 24th zigzags at the milepost, and arriving at the Thet dak bungalow at twenty minutes past

six . The actual time from the hotel was two

hours and ﬁfty minutes, and the distance nearly 26 9 miles , so that the rate was about miles an

u hour, incl ding stops, and we had reached an eleva 4000 tion of nearly feet above the sea . There was

THE ROAD TO KASHMIR 13 1 some snow to be seen on the saddle of the hill in

Of u sun front the dak b ngalow at Tret, but the had been uncomfortably hot during the day, and there a was no Sign of snow on the ro d . The next morning we left Tret at half past

G ohra ull seven, and got to g y in little over an m 2 29 . 7 hour From ilestones to , where the road

u zigzags p, there are ﬁne views over the plains

Of - to Rawal Pindi, south south west, and to the

a Of - isolated mount ins west south west . Above 3 0 milestone there was snow and ice on the road, and two miles beyond the tonga stopped close

- G ohra ull by the round, stone watch tower, at g y,

Of o built at time the Mutiny, about a mile bel w

Murree brewery. There we engaged coolies

ou r to carry luggage , and riding ponies for our selves . The established charge for ridin g ponies with ” European saddles is one rupee per stage ; for baggage ponies or mules, eight annas ; and for

-ﬁve t coolies carrying twenty sirs, say ﬁf y pounds

Of weight, luggage, four annas . An extra pay ment Of an anna to a good coolie is considered a satisfactory tip . The tonga drivers look for a tip, 13 2 THE ROMANTIC EAST but the ostlers or syces expect nothing . Owing to the bad state of the road we promised our coolies double pay if they made good time . We paid two

Of rupees each for the hire the ponies to Bagla, and had already mounted when the owner refused to

let us start, unless we each paid another rupee . As we knew it would not do to go faster than our luggage, and as the ponies were poor brutes, we

u concl ded not to insist on our right to them, but demanded our money back and started Off on foot

’

O . about nine clock It was just so much saved, as the road above the brewery was quite impracticable

for ponies, and we must have abandoned them .

The ‘ sn ow on the road had a narrow track through

it which had been trodden by the coolies, who

- carried the mail bags, walking in single ﬁle . These footsteps were two or three feet above the surface

Of the road, and if we placed one foot before

the other carefully we found a solid, if slippery,

foothold , but any deviation landed us in the f t . so , deep snow The ponies would simply have

ﬂo un dered Off about, so we were better without them The mountains on our Side of the valley are

13 4 THE ROMANTIC E AST cold in plodding through the snow ; but now it became overclouded, and we had at first some f di ficulty in keeping warm . Four miles lower ft down, a er the first dak, the road was clear of

5 1 ehlam snow, and at milestone the J could be seen

Of thousands feet below.

The general direction O f the road from Murree

- - to Kohala is north north east, descending the ﬂank Of the mountains on the west or right bank Of the

ehlam Of J , which ﬂows , a little to the east south , between Domel and the town Of Jehlam on the

- North Western Railway, and forms the western boundary of Kashmir. Across the valley to the eastward we could see the peaks Of the Pir

Panjal range Of mountains in the Punch district of Kashmir. Through these mountains is the old

Imperial Road, starting from Gujrat and running 1 6 0 about miles to Srinagar, by which the Moguls visited Kashmir from the Punj ab . From Murree the road runs downhill all the 2000 way to Kohala, which is about feet above the level of the sea, with nearly level stretches between 54 55 milestones and , and also between the small bridge at milestone 6 3 an d Kohala Bridge . The P hotog rap hed by th e A utho r ’ — L M T R E R R ME RC T R E R U SO O ON S H ON S INAGA HAN S IN FO G O ND .

1 3 6 THE ROMANTIC EAST

Ofﬁ is also the post ce . Srinagar lies over

d ue mountains almost east from Kohala, but

‘ road ﬁrst runs north up the Jehlam Valley over twenty miles before ﬁnding a break in mo untain barrier. C H AP T E R XV

KO HALA B R I D GE TO C H A K OT I

— The J c hlam and Ki shan gan ga A dangerous road - D omel — The great gorge A n accident to the tonga driver

Chak oti .

T HE iron bridge across the Jehlam at Kohala, 1 8 9 5 6 4 3 48 built in , toll one rupee, is miles feet from Rawal Pindi, and in calculating the distances from point to point, these odd feet and the length

Of the bridge are disregarded . On the Kashmir Side a new series Of milestones from the bridge to Baramula begins, and between these milestones the road is divided into sections of about 1 00

1 52 u feet numbered to . The road p the left

O f ehlam bank the J from Kohala to Baramula, which took ten years to b uild and cost about 1 8 8 9 was opened in , but cart trafﬁc only 1 8 9 0 began in September , and before the latter

date no wheeled vehicles had ever run into or out 1 3 7 18 1 3 8 T HE ROMANTIC EAST

Of . Kashmir Nor, in fact, were there any roads f for wheeled tra ﬁc in Kashmir itself. The water ways formed the principal means of transportation within the valley, and goods imported and exported

’ were carried on men s backs . There was an Old l f road, avai able for coolie tra ﬁc , down the right bank of the Jchlam from Baramula. Beyon d

Kohala the road runs north at ﬁrst, and is cut for

Of ff the most part in the face the cli s, sometimes high above the river and sometimes approaching its level . The scenery after crossing the bridge is very

ﬁne, the turbulent river rushing through its narrow bed below, the hills rising steeply from it on either

S ide, and in the distant background across the river to the north - west are higher snow- capped

1 st mountains . After the milestone is the

’ - o B arasalla Maharaja s rest h use at , and near it the road was nearly blocked by two great rocks that ff had fallen from the cli s above . Then the road ft crosses a bridge and threads a tunnel, and a er passing otherli rock - falls we arrived at the 3 rd milestone, where a bad landslip above and below the road left barely room for the tonga to pass in

KOHALA BRIDGE TO CHA KOTI 199

the narrow Space between the fallen rocks and the 5th crumbling edge of the road . Just before the

u milestone is another t nnel, and then a good stretch of road for two or three miles when we

a O f crossed a small plateau, p ssing through a grove

Of trees, and drove by the village Chattar down a 8 zigzag road, on which is the th milestone, to a

couple of bridges over a tributary stream . The 9 th milestone is between these bridges, and there was a fall of rocks on the road before reaching l oth the milestone, and several falls between the oth 1 1 th l and . Less than a mile beyond the

n latter is Dulai , where we stopped for the ight at the very nice dak bungalow prettily Situated on

- the river bank, and after a fairly good dinner we

’ turned in , satisﬁed with having done a good day s

work .

It began to rain during the night, the wind rISIII t g to half a gale, and when we lef at eight

’ O clock the next morning it was still raining. There was a bridge to cross before the 1 2th milestone and at the 1 4th milestone there were bad falls of rocks on the road . A mile and a

t he half farther on is village of Rara , near which 1 40 T HE ROMANTIC EAST

ehlam O k a stream enters the J on the pposite ban . The road then ascends high above the river and is

Of ff cut in the face the cli s . Between milestones

1 6 1 - and 7 were more rock falls, and after the latter came a dak, then a long tunnel followed by a

1 8 - shorter tunnel at milestone , and more rock falls before and after the next milestone . After mile stone 20 the road runs through a Short cutting and enters the more open valley at the j unction of

hlam Kishan an a the J e and g g rivers . The latter comes down from the north ; and the former from

- the east or rather south east, so that its left bank 21 here forms an acute angle . Milestone is at the

ehlam bridge, across the J , by which the road from the north through Garhi H abib ulla and by the left bank of the Ki shanganga joins the Murree road . The Domel dak bungalow is near the bridge, and farther along the Kashmir road is a

- - toll gate and custom house, where we had to pay

l u three rupees tol . The distant mountains p both river valleys were capped with snow, and from all we could hear, the road was no better by way of

bbot adad A t than by the way we had come.

ehlam The J , which is also known as the Behat ,

142 THE ROMANTIC EAST

covered mountain tops . It had stopped raining by the time we left Domel, but came down again before we left Garhi . Half a mile beyond Garhi the road ascends a detached hill by zigzags, and goes through the shoulder of it by an open cutting on to one Of the small plateaus or river terraces called by the natives karewas or udars . These are seen some times on one side of the river and Sometimes on

S u B both ides p to aramula, and appear to be the

Old bed of the river, high up above the present stream w hich ﬂows in the deep gorge below. There is a grove of trees on this plateau before 3 6 3 8 milestone , and at miles the road serves as m the bed Of a s all stream which crosses it . The road zigzags down before the next milestone and u Of p again after it, and there is another grove

r 3 9 ~ t ees before the dak at Saran, i miles . Beyond the 4oth milestone the road turns sharply to the

S ff right and is cut in the heer face of the cli s, which form a side gorge entering the main deﬁle at right angles ; and at milestone 42 there is

‘ a mag niﬁcent view looking backward down the l m Jeh a . In fact the scenery is exceptionally wild

144 THE ROMANTIC EAST

fastened to the pole, and the ﬂeshy top of it

Of including the nail torn completely f . He stood

rotudin dazed for an instant, looking at the p g bone — — it was the middle finger Of the left hand then calmly stooped down and fished out the torn flesh from between the metals, and stuck it back again . After washing the finger we dressed it in lint and salve, tied it up with adhesive tape, and wrapped it in a handkerchief. There was no other driver

so to be had and the nearest doctor was at Uri, with this rough dressing he started to drive us

a eighteen miles over a dangerous ro d , strewn with f allen rocks and broken away in places, in a storm

Of rain which turned to heavy wet snow during the

afternoon . There was a big rock on the road in the ﬁrst

mile out of Chinari, and four cascades close to the 54 road in the mile following . Up to milestone ,

where there were fresh falls of rock, the condition

Of the road was very bad, and then came another

cascade followed by an in provem ent in the road

Chako ti 55 tifﬁn to , 3, miles, where we had at the

dak bungalow prettily Situated where a mountain: t stream en ers the river. C H A P T E R XVI

CH A KOTI To SRINAGAR

— — — The J chlam gorge A breakdown Uri Oriental cunning — — Avalanches and landslides Rampur The Temple of Bun i ar — — Baramula Patan Srinagar.

TH E rain had changed to snow by the time we

tifﬁn Chak oti ﬁnished at , and it continued snowing

S diﬂi c ulties all the evening. But in pite of all our wounded driver cheerily sounded his horn and

Of Chakoti drove us out , over the bridge by the waterfall, and along the treacherous road which f runs for miles under the conglomerate clif s .

f te Old A r crossing the wooden bridge near Uppi ,

57 . ff g miles, the cli s above the road increase in height, the road got rapidly worse, and j ust before milestone 59 there was another bad cave in the road . The next ﬁve miles were dangerous to a degree, and it is a wonder that we got through with whole Skins . 146 THE ROMANTIC EAST The road gets nearer to the river level at the 6 ff oth milestone, where there are grand cli s on

O the pposite side of the river which here runs, nearly straight, through a magniﬁcent gorge extremely wild and impressive . After crossing a

chan l n bridge and g g horses, we began what proved 6 1 to be the worst dak . At milestone the road

all was very bad, and the next mile, under the crumbling cliffs after passing D ardkob and another

Of bridge, was the most dangerous mile the day. 6 2 At milestone a boulder, half a ton in weight,

Of lay in the middle the road, and we bumped on

n for another two miles over smaller falle rocks, which somewhat distracted our attention from the grand views down the straight reach of ri ver ﬂo w m ing at the botto of the gorge far below. b The iggest fallen rock, bigger than the tonga 6 4 itself, lay in the road between the milestones

5 Of and 6 . At the end another mile we seemed to f have got over the di ﬁcult part, and our driver had

u j ust whipped his horses p, for a dash to the last

off dak before Uri , when ﬂew the tire of the near wheel, and before the driver could pull up the wheel had been broken to pieces, and we came to

CHA KOTI TO SRINAGAR 147

a standstill . There was no other damage done, — and our resourceful driver sent the syce the groom who travels from dak to dak with each pair of horses and hangs on to the tonga as best he

— n can o with the horses to the dak, which was fortunately near at hand . But there was no tonga to be had there, and an hour passed before we were on o ur way again in a covered bullock - cart with our wet luggage, most of which had been exposed all day, on the outside of the tonga, to the rain and snow . After the n ext dak the road runs over the plateau upon which the village of Islamabad is

-ﬁelds situated, on a causeway built across paddy ; then comes the bridge where the Jehlam makes a right - angled turn at milestone 6 8 ; and after the m next ilestone is the Uri dak bungalow, where we

n put Up for the night . Se ding the driver of to the doctor ' with a good round tip for his plucky behaviour, we unpacked our luggage and spread

n . the wet thi gs out to dry Fortunately, some of

- S our packages were water tight, or we hould have

Of had a bad night it . Uri occupies a commanding position at the j unction Of the Jchlam and Haji Pir valleys . The 148 THE ROMANTIC EAST

- a road, which runs south e st from Domel to Uri, changes its general direction to north -east between

Uri and Baramula . The Haji Pir river ﬂows into

ehlam the J from the south, coming down from the pass of the same name . The next morning we had an experience of

e i Oriental cunning . W had asked the tahs ldar the night before to provide U S with coolies to carry ou r luggage as the road was blocked for wheeled trafﬁ c between Uri and Baramula, and we knew we should have close on thirty miles to walk through the snow . We had some hopes of doing it in one

u day, if we co ld make an early start ; but when the coolies arrived in the morning, the native in charge of the dak bungalow Shepherded them into an out house, and kept us kicking our heels until after ten

’

O . clock waiting for the coolies to turn up Finally,

Off suspecting the trick, we ered him a reward if he procured us the number of coolies we wanted within ﬁve minutes, and, sure enough, out they came from their hiding - place and picked up their loads . We paid the promised reward, but on our return journey gave him good advice instead of a

SO a . tip, that in the end he g ined nothing

150 THE ROMANTIC EAST

hour was the utmost that could be done . Just after milestone 7 6 are the ruins of a Square stone temple with an arched entrance the top of which

S is formed by a ingle large stone . The mountains on our side Of the valley are more heavily clothed with trees, and after passing Uri deodars are

but seen on the hills above, on all sides they were covered with snow from their summits to the

’ river s edge . 7 9 From milestone the road was less dangerous, although the snow was much deeper. In places there was at least six feet Of it in the drifts on the 8 1 road, and at one place, between milestones and 8 2 , where an avalanche had formed an inclined plane from the cliffs above the road to the river below, the snow was fully twenty feet deep where 8 we had to climb over it . Just beyond the oth

the U ruboha milestone is hamlet of , and between it and Rampur there are grand rock cliffs standing back from the road and rising up in sheer precipices . It was a quarter to four by the time the last coolie reached Rampur, so we had to be satisﬁed with

’ a short day s work, and resigned ourselves to the comforts Of dry foot-gear before a roaring wood -ﬁre

152 THE ROMANTIC EAST

n formed by large stones laid in horizo tal courses, an d embellished with a pyramidal hood -moulding or pediment. Such doorways and ﬂuted columns, with w wide intervals bet een them , form the character i sti c features of the ancient stone architecture of

Kashmir .

B un iar Beyond the valley opens, then comes

of i the village Nowshera, and two m les farther h “ on (8 8 2) the village of C antam ula. Then the

March lamb began to shed its ﬂeece, and at noon it 1 was snowing hard . Between milestones 9 and 9 2

O S i the valley pens out on our ide, wh le across the river is a wide plateau which ends in cliff s opposite

H i cham a 9 2 our S ( miles) , where ide becomes still

H icham a . n more open We found at the mail to ga, which had forced its way down through the snow

r from Ba amula, and also a sahib who was going

towards Rampur on a pony.

f H icham a The road has a heavy gradient a ter , and the valley closes in again near Sheri but after

O wards pens out, and the road was fairly easy up to

- the cross road to Baramula Bridge. We reached

’ D hanjibhoy s Ofﬁce at a quarter- past three ; but it was nearly half-past four before we had had some CHA KOTI TO SRINAGAR 153

d tea, change our clothes, settled with our coolies, and left Baramula for the drive of thirty-four miles

- south east to the hotel at Srinagar. Meanwhile h it ad stopped snowing, but there was snow on the

road up to the milestone which marks the distance 1 00 from Kohala as miles, and from Sher Garhi,

3 1 . Srinagar, as miles After that the road was

free from snow, although the ground was covered

on both sides .

All the way along, with few breaks, the nearly

Of straight road, nine miles which was under water 1 9 05 during the ﬂood of September , is lined with f O S . W a row poplars on each ide ild ducks,

a - e j ackals, and large w ding birds w re seen from time to time between the dirty villages ; but by the time we had left the hills and passed through

San ram a g it began to snow again , and we could not see far from the road . We were still a long way from Srinagar when night fell ; the dak

u bungalow and the r ins of the temples at Patan, built over a thousand years ago by Samkara

varm an Su an dha and his queen , g , were indistinctly

H aritrat seen, and by the time we reached it was

Mir und quite dark . We arrived at g , the last dak, 20 1 54 THE ROMANTIC EAST

- at a quarter past eight, and there the horses were changed by the light of straw and pinewood torches, but we got a good pair at last, and arrived at

’

edo u s . n N Hotel, Srinagar, within an hour Havi g telegraphed from Baramula that we were coming on, we found refreshments and beds awaiting us , and did j ustice to both . We were informed that the mails which left 26 Rawal Pindi on Sunday, February , arrived at

Of Srinagar in the ﬁrst hour Thursday morning, taking over seventy - four hours to come through

a Of t - inste d the usual hirty, or at most thirty six, hours .

NOTE TO CHAPTER XVI

STAG ES ON KASHMIR ROAD

Ab sea . l o l D e f rom R l P n istanc s awa i di . qggs KohzflaBrid e g . 255 Tret 3 400 3 1 % G ohragully (Ghora Gully) 3 7 Murree ( Mari) 4 4§ Bagla 6 4 K ohala 2000 6 5% B arasala (Barsala) 7 1 g Chattar 73 } Kulli an 752 Dulai 21 8 0 79% Rara Domel 23 20

CHA KOTI TO SRINAGAR 155

From

e D e from a P n Abo e sea . Ko a Br . istanc s Raw l i di . v h la idg

9 14 Ti n dali ( Ti n ali ) 9 8 Garhi (Gurbi) l osi Saran 1 09 Hattian (Hatian) 3 08 0 1 1 1 Zeli (Neli) . 1 1 5 Chinari 1 19; Chak oti ( Chakuti ) 1 21% Uppi ( OPi) 1 253, D ardkob 1 3 05 Islamabad 1 3 3 Uri ( Urie) 4425 1 44 U ruboha ( Urambu) Rampur 4 8 25 B un i ar ( Bhan i ar) Nowshera ( Naoshe ra) Chan tam ula ( Ghaut Malla) H i cham a ( Ke cham a) Sheri (Shir) Baramula 5 1 50

B ulgaon Palhalan Patan 53 00 H ari trat ( Harprat) Mi rgun d (Meri gon d) r r r r S inaga , She Ga hi

Srinagar Hotel C H A P T E R XVII

TH E VE NICE OF TH E E A ST — — Early birds Merchants and tourists Thieves and swindlers — r o ro — o - Cu i s and t phies Punts and h use boats .

TH E sun rose in a cloudless sky the following morning. The news of our arrival had Spread in the curious rapid way such things get about in the

East, and every merchant in Srinagar knew that the first guests Of the season had m ade an appearance at the hotel . Other visitors were already on the way, but we were the first tourists . The first Sportsman to arrive at the hotel for the summer shooting season Of 1 9 05 was a German f f o ficer, a lieutenant in the Uhlans, who le t Rawal

u 25 Pindi, Saturday morning, Febr ary , and arrived by way of Abbottabad at Srinagar, Friday night, 3 March . The next day two American gentlemen

u turned p. The Shooting licence for the summer 156

158 THE ROMANTIC EAST

f . O to bay A score . dirty hands thrust greasy

our cards in faces, double that number of voices “ invited us to visit as many shops, each the best ” in Kashmir, and those who stood nearest whispered in our ear that the rest were all thieves and

swindlers .

That the Kashmiris are persistent, voluble, and

quick- witted is easy to discover ; that they are a

S dirty, cringing, piritless lot is easy to see ; and that they are untruthful and dishonest is easy to

believe . If the Kashmiri merchants enjoy the

Of reputation being the most unconscionable rogues,

it is mainly their own fault, and every merchant in

Srinagar is ready to admit that, with one exception , they are all even worse than reputed .

Of As a matter fact, the Kashmiris do carry their swindling a point beyond our experience Of

our any other land, for in all travels we never found another country where the post Ofﬁce is

used for the issue of false coin . At the Baramula post Ofﬁce on the way up two bad rupees were

given in the change for a sovereign , and at Srinagar

t he one bad rupee. The one received at latter

place is kept as a souvenir, the two received at

160 THE ROMANTIC EAST

charcoal ﬁre, which it automatically blows in a

Of similar manner to a pair bellows .

We purchased ﬁn ely- chased silver on the basis o f twelve annas per tola , embroideries on our

’ eStim ate of the n umber of days work at four annas

l n ahash a day, as we l as enamels, lacquer work ( ) ,

- e kar -i -ka lamdani papier mach ( ) , and carved wood at moderate prices . We also bought some skins, including one Of a ﬁne snow leopard (safed chetah

ram ahun f or ) rom Ladakh , of Mohammed Baba , t f the taxidermis , at whose shop we saw a airly complete collection of the larger mammalia of

Kashmir. Among others were the markhor, whose

S V barasin h broad piral horns form a wide ; the g ,

s or Kashmir stag ; the Ovi Ammon (or nyan) , a wild sheep with enormous horns curving down until the points face towards the front ; the burhel

nar u (or p ) , whose horns curve boldly outward ; and the other variety of wild sheep called the shar u v p (or urin) , whose horns cur e back in a semi

of circle. There were also heads the Tibetan

u antelope or goa, whose ringed horns go straight p making a tall V with the tops curved towards each other, and the ibex (kale mayar) from Baltistan T HE VENICE OF T HE EAST 16 1 whose broad horns curve backwards like those

shar u . of the p Specimens of the goral, serow ,

kusturah chakor, manaul, musk deer or , thar, wolf, m fox, bear, and loh or Kash iri fox could also be inspected .

Srinagar is indeed a ﬁlthy town, and it is no

a wonder that it is considered unhe lthy, or that

Of - thousands perish cholera and small pox . But we saw it at a very bad time, when the heavy fall Of snow was melting and had been trodden into

. SO slush Even , it is not as bad as some Chinese cities, while the river running through it enables one to avoid long walks in the streets and gives it a Venetian picturesqueness . The curious tumble down wooden buildings propped u p with long

ni timbers, the balco es projecting from unexpected

kadals places, the peculiar bridges or (pronounced

- the stone landing places and steps,

shikaras the ﬂoating latrines , and the and dungas all combine to form a picture Of exceptional quaintness . In this veritable Venice Of the East the place of the gondola is taken by the shikara, which

n is nothing more or less than a Thames pu t, 21 162 THE ROMANTIC EAST

r propelled by paddles (ku ) . These paddles have heart - shaped blades fashioned in the form of the leaf Of the water - lily and fastened to the handle with a band . The coolies sit on their haunches — fore and aft and use three different strokes the plain backward dig followed by a clean lift from the water ; the dig and lift followed by feathering in a semi - circle ; and the dig and lift followed by a peculiar twiddle . The manjhi or boatman is paid

Of a small sum for the use his boat, and you employ

as , many coolies as you want for paddling at four annas a day— the usual wage of an able -bodied

Kashmiri.

C H AP T E R XVIII

TH E BRID GE S A ND TH E C I T Y

— — — f Mayas um The bridges Sher Garhi palace Mosq ue o Shah — — Hamadan The great mosq ue Hari Parbat Tinpo t

temples .

TO the east of Srinagar the hill called Takht- i

“ ’ Sulaiman, or Solomon s Throne, raises its trap summit a thousand feet above the Jehlam at its

base . On the top of the ridge is the Sankar

u Acharya, a Hindu temple of great, but ncertain,

age.

The river here ﬂows to the west, and from its f right or north bank uns, ﬁrst to the north and then

Tson t - i - re - to the west, the kul, a canal which enters

ehlam the J lower down opposite Sher Garhi, and

a SO forms an island called M yasu m . On this

r u island, which is the Eu opean q arter, is the

Of Residency, the dak bungalow, the post ﬁce, the

’ Of D han ibho s telegraph ﬁce, the hotel, j y agent, the 1 63 1 64 THE ROMANTIC EAST

banks, and the shops for European goods . The island is protected from ordinary ﬂoods by a lofty

but embankment or bund, it was all under water in 1 9 05 September , and in previous exceptional ﬂoods.

S - They how you , in the dining room of the hotel , where the water nearly reached the ceiling during these times . On the river bank opposite the island

m Of is the museu , a substantial square building pyramidal elevation .

Of - In this reach the river the house boats , Upon which most of the resident sahibs live during

1 3 Of the summer, are moored . From the th De cem ber 1 9 04 U , when the snow began to fall, p

l st 1 9 05 to the of March , there had been continual

the bad weather in the Kashmir valley, and snow fall had been SO heavy that many Of the house -boats had been sunk at their moorings by the weight Of b the snow piled Up on them . Many sahi s, instead

Of - spending the summer on a house boat, prefer to “ escape the mosquitoes and go to Gulmarg, The

Of Of Meadow Roses, a hill station to the west Srinagar on the northern l peS Of the Pir Panjal 8 00 5 feet above the sea . There are three bridges across the Jehlam above

THE BRIDGES AND THE CITY 165

Srinagar. The ﬁrst coming down the river is at

Kanbal, not far from Islamabad which lies two

- miles back from the river, the second on Bij Behara, and the third at Pampur . But the bridge below e the mus um in Srinagar, where the river turns to “ the north , is called the ﬁrst bridge or Amiran

Kadal, and close to this bridge on the left bank is the

’ - solidly constructed Maharaja s Sher Garhi palace, and next to it the palace Of General Raja Sir Amar

’ Singh, brother of the Maharaja . The General s e palace has an lectric light installation , and the

- exterior is illuminated by arc lights . A canal called the Kut - i -kul is cut from the left bank of the river below Sher Garhi to the Naya Kadal, and the canal is crossed a few yards from the

Tainki river by the Kadal .

The next bridge over the Jchlam below Sher

F atteh Garhi is called Haba Kadal, and then comes

Kadal towards the end of the reach to the north . Below the latter bridge on the right bank is the mosque of Shah Hamadan, built on the foundations

Of a Hindu temple in the reign Of Kutab - u d - din f in honour O the Saint Mir Sayyad Ali Of Hamadan .

The mosque is a square wooden building, with 166 THE ROMANTIC EAST

a balcony facing the river, covered by a shingle roof rising pyramid fashion to a square open pavilion with ﬁve arches on each side, and above this a pyramidal Spire surmounted by an umbrella

S haped metal ﬁnial or ti . In the base Of the Spire above the pavilion are curious dormer windows with projecting tops, one in each face . The interior Of the mosque is hung with embroidered cloths, and from the rafters are suspended ostrich

Off eggs and crystal lustres . Shoes must be taken to enter . Connected with the mosque are quaint wooden buildings , intended, we were told, for the priests . From the Zaina Kadal we walked through ﬁltli y streets to the Jama Masjid , crossing a branch of the Mar Nullah, the canal which connects the

Anchar Dal with the A stavol Dal and Road Dal . The Jama Masjid is said to have be en built by

- d - Sadr U din in the year 1 3 23 . It was burnt twice

re - and built the second time by Shah Jahan, burnt 1 6 1 for the third time in 7 , and thoroughly repaired 1 8 1 6 in , only to be closed during the Sikh occupation 8 1 1 9 1 8 45 . between and The buildings, which are entirely Of wood and are locally known as the

T HE BRIDGES AND THE CITY 1 67 Ziarat (ziarat being the name for any Mohammedan

S hrine) , are in a very bad state of repair and rapidly falling to pieces . They are no longer used for f public worship, and we had di ﬁculty in ﬁnding the caretaker ; but after some delay the southern

Of door, kept fastened with a padlock the peculiar K ashmiri pattern , unlocked by a key which engages

. O . an interior screw, was pened for us Within is a

C square enclosure like a sarai , surrounded by loisters

Of with a square building in the middle each side. Three of these buildings have roofs and spires similar to the mosque Of Shah Ham adan ; and all of them have fine deodar pillars and rafters, 3 0 the former at least feet high , and said to — be five hundred years Old in Spite O f the fires $ In the centre Of the enclosure is another wooden building . A short distance to the north of the Jama Masjid 250 3 is Hari Parbat, a hill about feet high and 28 miles in circumference, surrounded by a wall feet high , and having a fort on its summit. The 1 59 0 wall was built by Akbar about the year , and the enclosed hill was called the Nagar Nagar or

Sangin Darwaza. The fort or citadel on the top is 168 THE ROMANTIC EAST

more modern, having been built by Atta Mohammed

Khan, the Pathan governor . There are several temples in Srinagar with

domes and sikras covered over with pieces of biscuit

I tins . The most imposing of them all s the

Sri san atan Dharm Sabha , in an enclosure on the

sikras left bank of the river, whose tinned have

small gilded Spires . A short distance away on the same bank is the stone mosque built by Nur

n Jaha . On the right bank below the Zaina Kadal

m Of Zai n u -l- Of is the to b abidin, the great king h 1 41 7 Kashmir who came to the t rone in the year , and who died at the age of sixty - nine after a reign

- of ﬁfty two years . The bridge is named after the king , who built here the ﬁrst permanent bridge,

s the bridges before hi time being of boats . At the Zaina Kadal the river takes a turn to

an d the west, below it are the Ali Kadal, the Naya

Kadal, and last of all the Safa Kadal . The latter is a simple wooden arch but the others have piers,

Of built of timbers, in the form an inverted pyramid, each tier projecting beyond the one below, until the space between the piers is narrowed sufﬁciently t o be spanned with long timbers . These bridges

T HE BRIDGES AND T HE CITY 169

ordinarily last from thirty to forty years, but in the

ﬂood Of July 1 8 9 3 six of the seven bridges were swept away, and only the Amiran Kadal was left standing . Except for these accidents , the number

Of bridges has remained unchanged for nearly ﬁve hundred years . C H A P T E R XIX

TH E MO ST BE AUT IFUL COUNT RY I N TH E WO RLD

— ’ Different points of view From the steps of Solomon s Throne The valley and the mountain barriers - Kashmir and the r Kashmi is .

“ KA SHMI R is considered to be one Of the most beautiful and fertile valleys in the world, the

“ land of enchantment, the only land which never ” “ disappoints expectations ; the most beautiful country in the East ” and “ the most lovely country

” sun Of under the . Of course we saw very little it in our short stay but what we did see was enough to make us desire to come again, and we saw nothing to cause U S to disparage the reputation Of the Happy Valley. The mountains enclosing the valley rival those of Switzerland, the lakes compare favourably with those of Westmoreland, and the poplar avenues recall the valley Of the Loire .

There are reminiscences of the Thames in the river, 170

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY 17 1

suggestions of Venice in the town, and some thing of the quaint scenery Of Holland in the ﬂat country . Opinions vary as to the best time to see Kash mir. Some say the summer, in spite of the heat and mosquitoes ; some say the Spring ; but more favour the time when the ground is covered with snow . Resident sahibs, who had seen the valley at

O all seasons, gave us their pinions in the following words Unless you ’ ve come to select your nullah and

S get ready for a hooting expedition, you are much too early to see Kashmir to advantage. A fort night hence the blossoms will be out and the whole

beautified ul scenery . Or, better still, you sho d be here when the hills are covered with roses, when the fields are ablaze with the orange - coloured ff colchicum and the deep yellow sa ron flowers, and when the gardens on the lake are gay with picnic parties and mem - sahibs in summer flocks flit ” h . S O e through the groves said one sahib, and

’ recalled to mind Moore s lines :

If o or r r w man can make the w st wilde ness dea ,

She of a r . Think , think what a heaven must make C shme e 172 T HE ROMANTIC EAST

But we heard a different story from an Older sahib , who explained that the surveying parties we

ehlam had seen on the right bank of the J , from the road up to Baramula, were engaged in the ﬁnal surveys for the railway which would come up from

S Domel on that ide, and which may be worked by electricity supplied by an installation utilising the

- water power of the river. It was not yet known whether the connection with the North Western Railway would be m ade at Rawal Pindi or at

Hasan Abdal , and through trains are not expected to run into the valley for at least ﬁve years . “ “ Then, said he, Kashmir will be utterly ruined .

It has been spoilt by petticoats already. Before

the - the tonga road was built, and mem sahibs

m . began to co e, we sahibs indeed lived a happy life

S We had the ﬁnest port, and the best the country

ff S a orded in the way of helter, clothing, food, and women, and we found all of them good enough without importing any Of these necessities . Then

- the mem sahibs came, and now we must live in big houses, dress in ﬁne linen , eat tinned food, and give

’ up our bachelor ways $ Why couldn t they leave well enough alone $

174 THE ROMANTIC EAST

r Kashmi . The road continues by way of Nowshera

on the Tawi River and through Bhimber to Gujrat, a station on the railway a few miles north of the

Chenab River . Naba Pir, feet, and Tata

Sha i on kuti, feet, are seen to the west of p y ; and other peaks of the Pir Panjal range are seen

- south west of Srinagar, while to the west lies

Gulmarg on the northern ﬂank of the same range .

- North west lies Baramula, and farther away the peak of Kazi Nag rises to the height of feet. Coming around to the north is the range over which sportsmen after markhor travel t hrough the

Tragbal Pass, feet above the sea, to the

Ki shan an a valley of the g g , and then by the Sari sangar Pass feet) to the Astor Valley at

Of D a arm ar the base Nanga Parbat, or y , which rises feet above the sea , and can be seen 1 50 due north Of Gulmarg . Astor is about miles from Srinagar and is reached in fourteen marches ,

- Gilgit is 23 0 miles or twenty two marches .

North of Srinagar are the D rawar mountains among whose peaks is Haramukh, which rises to

Of -ﬁve the height feet . Nearly twenty miles away to the north - north - west is Safapur

176 THE ROMANTIC EAST

e them they w re covered down to their bases, and in the whole valley the only places not covered with snow were the waterways and the mountain precipices, too steep to give the snow a resting place . The distant views were certainly grand and impressive, and the glimpses nearer at hand brilliant

satiSﬁed and beautiful, so that we were entirely

Of with our hasty survey the valley.

The people did not impress us so favourably .

Of H i uen From the time Tsiang, the Chinese

- traveller, who resided in the valley of Kia shi mi -lo for two years in the early half of the seventh century and described the people as “ ” the handsome in appearance, beauty of the

women Of Kashmir has been the theme Of Eastern

poets and prose writers ; and Six centuries ago

O f Marco Polo , the ﬁrst European to write them , “ ” Of said the women Kashmir are very beautiful .

From his time to that of Fredric Drew, who thirty years ago found “ the general run of women decidedly

” - good looking, there is no discordant note in the

- chorus Of admiration. Perhaps all the good looking

women now keep parda, or perhaps the people have THE MOST BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY 177

degenerated, but for some reason or other we saw

nothing Of feminine beauty. Some of the children

- we saw were nice looking, but that was all . The Kashmiris are of a race similar to the

Pathans, and their features are strikingly Jewish .

Of The girls are married as early as the age seven, and cohabitation is general at twelve and some

times as early as nine . They are usually mothers

by the time they are fourteen , and as they are i very p roliﬁc, bearing from ten to fourteen ch ldren,

they age quickly. Moreover, great numbers of

- them are pitted with small pox, and as it is not thought quite respectable for a woman to be clean

ﬁlth - they are almost invariably y looking, so that there is not much that is attractive about the

Kashmiri beauties .

- The Kashmiri women of to day use, as they

did centuries ago, a black powder of lead ore

called kohol to darken their eyelids, and even

Of babies may be seen in Srinagar, as in some the

Of cities the plains, with eyes heavily blackened

. heran with it Men and women wear the p , a tunic or gown with hanging sleeves fastened at the neck and falling to the ankles . Under this gown is 23 178 THE ROMANTIC EAST

ﬁre - carried in winter a kangar, or basket. This

ﬁre roof— is really a portable stove, being a p usually — clay basin, containing burning charcoal, enclosed in a basket with a handle . Held under the gown

u in the neighbo rhood of the stomach, the kangar

Of does not improve the appearance the natives .

alahru The coolies wear p , which are straw sandals almost exactly like the Japanese waraji, and these sandals are the very best footgear for mountain work, particularly in wet weather. The Kashmiris have a very ancient and con tin uous literary history contained in four chronicles

R a ataran in i called the j g , after the title of the ﬁrst Of them which was begun by the poet Kalhana

1 1 48 A D 1 459 1 48 6 in . . The others date from , ,

1 58 6 . and , respectively When Akbar conquered

1 58 6 - 8 the valley in , a copy of these chronicles in Sanskrit was handed to him, and he had them translated, and they have been done into French

o esh by Troyer, and into English by J g Chunder

Dutt , M . A. Stein, and others . The Kashmiris remained subject to the Moguls

’ from A kb ar s time until the Afghans under Ahmed

Shah Durani captured Kashmir in 1 752 ; and the

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL COUNTRY 179

1 8 1 9 Afghans or Pathans ruled in the valley until , when the Sikhs under Ranjit Singh conquered it . Gulab Singh, a Dogra Rajput, was given l the rajaship of Jammu, but the Kashmir va ley

. I n 1 8 46 itself was ruled by Sikh governors , after the British had defeated the Sikhs, Kash mir was sold to the Maharaja of J ammu for Gulab Singh died in 1 8 57 and was

Ra nbir anbir succeeded by his third son Singh . R 1 8 8 5 died in September , and his eldest son, Partab

Singh , the present Maharaja, began his reign . Partab Singh failed to r ul e in a manner satisfactory to the Indian Government, and he was obliged in

1 8 8 9 to resign all his powers to a Council ; but in 1 8 9 1 the Maharaja was given a greater share ff 1 9 05 in the direction of a airs, and in his full powers were restored . And so it is that for over three centuries the Kashmiris have been subject to an alien rul e and slaves to the tender mercies of a succession of governors, nominally representing the conquerors

but for the time being, in reality free from all responsibility and at liberty to practice any in

o j ustice r cruelty upon the defenceless people . 18 0 THE ROMANTIC EAST That the Kashmiris should have developed in a marked degree the traits common to all ill - used slaves is not surprising ; but their best friends hope that the new era inaugurated by the land settlement of 1 8 8 7 - 9 3 may witness a gradual amelioration in their social condition and a corre spon ding improvement in their character . Besides man’ s inhumanity to man the Kash miris have suffered from sm all - pox and cholera

1 8 7 - 9 epidemics from famines, such as the one in 7 when there was no road for wheeled con veyances into the Kashmir valley ; and from earthquakes, 1 8 8 5 of which the most severe recorded was in , when ‘ there was a series of shocks lasting from 1 3 h 1 6 the t of May to the th of August, during 0 which period over 3 50 people perished . And now the plague is reported to be again raging in

J ammu .

18 2 THE ROMANTIC EAST

over two and a half miles wide. The bottom is

covered with a dense growth of aquatic plants, and the famous “ ﬂoating gardens ” have been made

off by cutting these plants below the surface, Sprinkling earth over the matted top and planting vegetables . At the time we saw them, these ﬂoating gardens simply looked like the ﬂat surface of a marsh slightly elevated above the level of the

the lake. Around lake are orchards, vineyards,

- ﬁelds of and hop , and at the northern end the

eastern shore is the Nishat Bagh . This garden ,

1 8 00 feet long and containing about forty - four

out acres, is laid in terraces, rising back from the lake nearly to the high road on the ﬂank of the

hills above, through the centre of which a stream of water is led in cascades and fountains to the pavilion near the entrance . In the pavilion are

carved window screens, some glass windows, and

- e a lacquered papier mach ceiling, and there are

i founta ns in the square, open courtyard . The garden is planted with cherry - trees and chenars ;

and roses, lilacs, and syringas grow there in pro

fusion . Across the lake in front of the Nishat Bagh is a curious little humpbacked bridge over

18 4 THE ROMANTIC EAST h Lalla Rook herself was a daughter of Aurangzeb ,

grandson of Jahangir. Shalimar is not a botanical

garden, but a park of ﬁne chenar, walnut, willow,

- poplar, and elm trees through which is diverted a stream upon whose artiﬁcial banks are built a

- number of summer houses or pavilions . In the lake face of the rectangular enclosure are two gateways which lead through lodges placed on either side of the central line of the

of garden, which is a third a mile in length . Inside the gates and facing them are two pavilions joined th by an arcade of twelve pillars, and behind e

arcade a group of ﬁfteen fountains . Then a pair

of small pavilions, one on each side of the central

canal, another pair of similar pavilions, and then the main pavilion or principal baradari with a triple roof. This is surrounded by basins from

- which rise fountains, twenty one in front, sixty

- three on each side, and twenty seven in back, or

- one hundred and seventy four fountains in all . The sides of the basins in back and in front of the c baradari have ni hes for holding lights . The plinth of the baradari is of polished black limestone resembling black marble. Within there are three THE GARDENS OF THE GREAT MOGULS 18 5

S chambers in a line from side to ide, the central

oblong chamber has a ceiling painted in panels, and the side chambers have coloured glass windows .

There are porticoes or verandas in front and back, supported by black marble pillars with carved bases and bracket capitals, four simple ones in the

centre and double pillars at the corners . The ceil

ings of the verandas are painted in panels, and the l upper half of the wa l is also painted . Among the decorations are barasi ngh heads holding a lamp on

each tine.

Behind the baradari is a small pavilion which 1s

said to have been the zenana, and there is a larger one on either side ; while there are buildings at the sides of the garden in a line with each of the pair

of detached pavilions, so that, not counting the

gate lodges, there are thirteen buildings in the

grounds . It was snowing when we left Shalimar

Bagh, and we paddled across the lake in a snow

” storm to the Nasim Bagh or Garden of Zephyrs,

’ begun in A kbar s time and now famous for its

grove of chenars . The chenar, or boin, specimens of which measure over sixty feet around the

- trunk, is the plane tree, which is said to have been 24 18 6 THE ROMANTIC EAST

u introd ced into Kashmir by Ali Mardan Khan ,

u who was s bahdar or governor under Shah Jahan, and who laid out the terraces of the other Shalimar

Bagh in the suburbs of Lahore. His tomb may

e ‘ be se n on the way from Lahore to the gardens . From the Garden of Zephyrs we went to see the painted wooden mosque at Hazrat Bal, the most

sacred Mohammedan shrine in Kashmir, where they were repeating the afternoon prayers, and back by the Miphal and Tsont - i -kul through the

sluice - gate to the landing - place behind the golf

c . ourse and hotel It cleared up later, and we took a walk out by the road which runs to the south o f - i - - Takht Sulaiman, then turns to the north east across the shoulder of the hill and runs north to N ishat and Shalimar. We left this road, struck

A natn a across the ﬁelds to the g road, which runs

south - east up the Jchlam valley to Islamabad — which the natives call A n atn ag or A n antbag and

returned by the Ram Munshi Bagh and the Bund .

C H A P T E R XXI

S RINA GAR TO BARAMULA

- — Manjhi s and nautch girls The river of milk The Naru — — — canal Winter birds Si ngharas Volur Lake .

WH EN we left Srinagar we engaged a house-boat

u s to take as far as Baramula, and took on board stores for a three days’ picnic The boatman “ arranged the whole bandobast, and provided an

- English house boat for ourselves and a dunga, or

- native house boat, to be used as kitchen and to accommodate the crew . The charge for the boats

. was one rupee eight annas per day, the use of cooking utensils eight annas, and the hire of eight coolies at four annas each came to two rupees, making a total charge of four rupees per day.

This seemed very reasonable, although a dunga can be hired for twenty to thirty rupees a month , but we found that the “ eight coolies meant the 187 1 8 8 THE ROMANTIC EAST

’ boatman s family, and included his wife, a young

- man with a frock coat who was above any work, an d an old man who was incapable of any . The boatman is usually called by the Hindustani name

Ka h r s u . manjhi, but the name is hanji or hanz The Srinagar manjhi combines in himself the profes

- sions of water man, interpreter, guide, and procurer, so we were not surprl sed when we boarded the house - boat to ﬁnd three nautch - girls engaged for o ur W e entertainment on the way down . declined their services, however, and dismissed them with an i honorarium, after taking the r photographs seated

- in the doorway of the house boat . It took over six hours to do the ten miles from

Tsont - i - the kul to Shadipur. After passing the ” Safa Kadal the D udganga or river of milk joins the Jehlam on the left (khowar ) bank ; and opposite

a Sh dipur, where there is a suspension bridge with brick towers, the Sind river, which ﬂows down

Zo i from the j La, enters the Jehlam from the e dachan ast or right ( ) bank . Shadipur was founded in the latter half of the fourteenth century by

a Shahabu -d- Sult n din, after whom it was called

Shahabuddinpur. The six miles from Shadipur

190 THE ROMANTIC EAST

blue and orange -brown plumage before the bow of

our boat, and the pied kingﬁsher ﬂew along the

banks of the stream . Finches with black and

yellow feathers, hoopoes, and a solitary golden “ oriole or mango - bird darted through the air ; and ﬂoating over the water were ﬂocks of the

- kri n white headed d or laughing gulls .

At noon the second day we saw a large $ jhil to

- the south west alive with wild ducks . The natives

’ ’ keus mlz bank called them , g , and , which would be teal, mallard, and shoveller ducks, and they shoot them with long match - lock muskets ﬁrmly lashed to boats and aimed by steering the latter . Two and

- a half hours later, when we were in the south west

a corner of Vol r Lake, we saw to the north large

of ans . ﬂocks grey geese, which the boatmen called

a Vol r Lake is the largest in India, and is in reality an expansion of the Jehlam, which enters it at the south - east end and ﬂows out from the south

of west. In times low water the lake measures about 1 8 miles by 6 and covers an area of 7 8

square miles, but at times of ﬂood it covers over

1 00 square miles . On the lake we found a number of boats con

1993 THE ROMANTIC EAST

whisky to last to Rawal Pindi . We knew that the lexicographers traced the word whisky to the

ui s e Gaelic word g , meaning water ; and we had heard that Scotch whisky was prepared in a pot still from malted barley. We had never seen the W process, and were unable to say whether the hisky with a Scotch name we bought at Srinagar was derived from water or barley ; but it is curious that the Kashmiri name for barley is wiska .

’ Our m anjhi s little bill for the supplies he con sidered it necessary to lay in for a trip of forty eight hours was, in English weights and prices, as follows 720 pounds of wood 1 6 meat 1 0 potatoes 2 oni ons 2 butter 4 rice and dhal 3 ﬂour 5 4 mahsir 1 2 loaves of bread 4 dozen eggs 5 ducks 4 water jars Green vegetables

r rr o r . Salt, peppe , cu y p wde , etc

£ 1 2 8

194 THE ROMANTIC EAST saw coming down from Srinagar seemed more

ll he su en and more apathetic than t city folk . The huts of the villagers were miserable to a degree, and the villagers themselves equally miser able and ﬁlthy. C H A P T E R XXII

AND SO H OME — Baramula to Rawal Pindi The last dak

A T Baramula we left the boat and transferred our

akdans belongings, mostly packed in y or mule i trunks , wh ch we bought for about ten shillings

- each at Srinagar, to the pack animals which had

us been provided for by the tahsildar, to whom we

- had previously telegraphed . The pack ponies are

m rkhban - kha called a and the pack donkeys r wala.

’ [char khar war The or , a donkey s load , is the ancient standard weight of Kashmir, and is nearly one hundred and eighty pounds . We arranged with

’ D hanjibhoy s agent to have a Special tonga to

’ u s U rub oha meet at , and about eleven o clock our cavalcade left Baramula, the boat people coming

ff ha a la khu to see us o and say w t da (adieu) . 1 9 05 Six months later, in September , almost 1 95 196 THE ROMANTIC EAST the whole town of Baramula was destroyed by a

u ﬁre which raged for twelve hours . Eight h ndred

houses are said to have been burnt, and the damage was estimated at over

As our pace was limited by that of our pack

us animals, it took over ﬁve hours to ride from

Baramula down to Rampur, so that we only

averaged three miles an hour. A large number of

coolies were at work on the road, and it had been greatly improved in the few days since we passed

over it coming up . For long distances a pathway had been cut in the snow and ice ; much of the fallen rock had been removed ; and the larger

off boulders, too big to be hauled the road, were

being drilled preparatory to blasting . Men were stationed at some of the more dangerous places to warn travellers that the landslides were still

moving .

On the Kashmir road , as well as in many parts

of India, the custom prevails of two men working

S a pade or shovel . One of them pushes the spade

in, and the other helps the removal of the earth or rock by hauling on a rope attached to the lower end of the handle .

AND SO HOME 197

After some food at Rampur we pushed on ; but at one place where there had been a big a 8 2 8 1 valanche of snow, between milestones and ,

- o ur pack mules had to be unloaded and led across . This proved to be the last obstruction to the work

U ruboha ing of the tongas, and at we transferred o verselves and luggage to the tonga waiting for

’ u s c , and leaving at six o lock did the eleven miles t o Uri in an hour and a half. How we rejoiced to hear again the steady clank of the yoke on the l tonga pole, and the sibilant ca l of the driver, like whistling the letter S, as he urged his horses over the broken road; —the latter half of the journey in d the eepening twilight . The day had been ﬁne ; but we had hardly settled down to o ur dinner before it began to rain , and the downpour con tin ued all night and until we left Garhi after tifﬁn the next day.

The purple and yellow ﬁve -petalled wild -ﬂowers were in bloom from Uri down, and trees were in blossom farther along the road . Near Uppi there

- n u had been a heavy rock fall si ce we had passed p, and there were fresh falls in other places . When

, sun we reached Domel the had come out, and we 198 THE ROMANTIC EAST met a procession of men armed with swords march ing behind a drummer. All the way down the hillsides are cultivated wherever the slopes are not dd Lﬁ ld a e s. too steep, and every karewa has its p y

- Goats and j ungle crows were both plentiful, but there was othe rwise little animal life seen after

W e leaving Baramula. drove steadily on to m Kohala, and found we had acco plished nearly

u t seventy miles in about ten ho rs, or, deduc ing the

ti in fﬁn . hour for , in nine hours includ g all other stops The next morning we started early from Kohala

for the long grind up to Bagla, which, including

stops, we only did at the rate of ﬁve miles an hour As we got near Bagla the snow reappeared ﬁrst on the hillside next to the road, and then in places on

the the road itself, and ﬁnally all over the road and

trees near it. At Bagla we found a lot of good n coolies, and, employing two extra o es to take

turn about, we made excellent time up, arriving

at Trinity Church in ‘ two hours and eighteen

n mi utes . For this walk, however, we had provided

ourselves with alpenstocks and with nail - studded

' leather sandals or chaplie s (tsap lz) strapped over

our . boots , so that we got on very comfortably

200 THE ROMANTIC EAST

h head to turn nasty . For nearly two hours e

kept wheeling around from one ditch to the other, f despite the united ef orts of the driver, the syce,

to and the three passengers, and in the end had be unharnessed and sent back while we waited in the dark for another relay, and it was after ten

’ o clock when we ﬁnally arrived at the hotel . Over the evening meal we congratulated our selves upon having succeeded in obtaining a peep at the romantic country in the bosom of the

Himalayas, and the pleasantest recollections will always be associated with our excursion from Rawal Pindi to Srinagar and the Happy Valley

of Kashmir . I ND E X

Names of o s e so s monume s e e a Ge o ra h a names s ma a ta s . nd g p ic l in ll c pi l g d , p r n , nts, c n s = u e e fo e word i n a i s . Anc . ancxent . B : s bj cts in R oman characters . Oth r r ign s it l c

= Kashur. B urma or B u me se . K Ka s m Kashm or r h ir, iri ,

A O AB OTTA B AD 1 2 6 1 0 AR ARA CAN ARRAKAN A BB TTABAD ( ) , , 4 . AKAN ( . , RRA - 1 6 . 6 1 02 1 0 . 5 CAN ) , 5, 7 , 5 A a 1 8 - 1 Arak a a o a 6 6 - fgh ns , 7 7 9 . n P g d , 7 , 7 7 7 . u e B m e - A HA TYU NG 1 8 A r e ur e 6 6 8 . , 9 . chit ct r , s , 7 A m e u 1 8 Ar e u e K a m r 1 - 1 2 S a ra . 1 h d h h D ni , 7 chit ct r , sh i i , 5 5

6 . S ee i n . A o a 6 1 Am daw Yah a o a . E daw a P g d y s k , , M -1 Akba 1 1 1 8 A 1 0 2 . 1 6 8 . r , 7 , 7 3 , 7 , 5 SSA , 5, 4 3 - wé 1 0 A am -Be a a a - 1 A or T SIT Hr . w 1 06 1 0 KYAB ( ), 4 ss ng l R il y , Al un a S ee Al m r A am om a 1 1 2 a a. o a . gp y p . ss C p ny , Alenand S in m e STAVOL A ST H A TA W H aw. ee Sh b o A AW OL S O L ( , ) A L A D A anc H A STAVA LIK A 1 6 6 G U 1 0 . 1 8 REEF , 3 DAL , . , , 3 K 1 A11 A111 a a th Br e 1 68 . A O . ( ) d l , 5 idg , ST R , 7 4 V Ah a a K a 1 8 6 . A O 1 . M rd n h n , ST R ALLEY , 7 4 - n am Alom ra A am raw Alau a a A a o m e K a 1 6 8 . p ( l p , gp y , tt M h d h n , Alaun ha a Al oun Phoura ATTA RA N A 8 0 gp y , g , ( TARAN) RIVER , 5, 9 , Aloun a a Aloun bhoora 8 g P y h , g , 9 7 . 9 Alaun h ra A o - za 2 1 Au a zeb 1 8 g p , ng ya), 3 , 3 , 3 7 , r ng , 4

AVA 1 . 3 9 , 47 ° , 5 , 5, 45

A O . V S ee IR WA D I A A A . L N , 45 RIVER . e l m loun a a . S e A o r A g P y p a. P AMA RA POOR A AM B P 8 A 1 0 . MARA URA ( , ARA ADAR UR , MM - -1 POORA H U ERA P U RA AM 1 2 1 1 1 8 . , , AYA BAGLA , 3 3 3 , 54 , 9 9 9 P O or T - MYO 1 - 6 B a- I- daw B ad i daw H a idoa YA) AUNG , 5, 45 4 , gy ( y , p gy , 6 H a ee -daw Pha i doa a 47 . 7 p gy , gy , Ph gyi i m a G en . a a r 6 d au or Sa A S S 1 . a . r ingh , R j , 5 ) g ing Min , 3 7 - 8 8 . B A 1 1 . MHERST , 4 5 AKARGANJ , 5 Am ra Am ee ri K a a I st B r e B 1 6 0 i n ( ) d l , idg , ALTISTAN , B A LU GYU N B - LOO- GYWON B HILU ( HEE , ANA TNAG ANA NTA NAGA A A T GYWON B 1LU - GEWEN ( , N N , GYUN , PELEW K E - or 1 8 6 . B E LO O GYOON 8 . BAG) ISLAMABAD , ASHMIR , ) , 5 - — w B a n doéas t 1 8 . ee au d a i . A naundopra . S N ng gy 7

A C ANCHIA R 1 6 6 . B PA ss B 1 . N HAR ( ) LAKE , ANIHAL ( ANAHAL) , 7 5 ' A m or Gre Goose 1 0. Ba Sl l o e 1 1 . y , 9 nks , J s ph , 3 ' B a ra da r - A e o e T be a 1 6 0 z 1 8 1 8 . nt l p , i t n , , 4 5

B a ua a htshl 1 0 . A R D A PU RA 1 6 1 8 . ar Bar u NU A , , g ( g ) n p , 3 201 26 202 THE ROMANTIC EAST

M - B TS . 1 . B IRMA H B 1 1 0 ARA LACHA , 7 5 BURMA ( , URMAH) , 3 B - M - M O B urm a e ai wa and Sm e AR A MULA ULLA , ULA , Min s , R l y lting - r W A RA MULA anc 0 00 o C . 8 . M LA) , . , 3 VA RA HA MU LA 1 2 1 1 8 1 1 u m a 2 - , 7 , 3 7 , 3 , 4 , B r ns , 4. - - - 1 8 1 2 1 1 1 1 6 . urm e e Birmese wom e 8 4 , 5 54 , 55, 93 9 B s ( ) n , 9 , 3 5.

B ARA SA LA B 1 8 1 . B u m e e era ( ARSALA) , 3 , 54 r s , 9 . B a ras i n iz 6a m s i n /Ea S ta Han a l B u ts u 2 g ( ) g , g . 4.

1C 1 1 6 0 1 8 . ( ) , 57 , , 5

B A SSIM 1 . K H 1 0 1 1 BASSEIN ( ) CREEK , 4 CACHAR ( ACHAR) ILLS , 9 , 5. N - - B 1 CARA A . S e . e TA FU 6 . ASUR GALI , 3 3 J LI , 4 mbo B ATGU L 1 . C ara a 6 , 7 5 l s , 4 . a ltakizeu 1 1 Carvm 6 8 8 8 B , 9 . g , , , 9 3 . WE N 8 a amar B A U D . a , 3 C t ns , 55. /z B EHA LIMU KH 1 2 2 . C a 1 , 1 4 .

1 0. C/zak r B S ee o 1 6 1 . EHAT . JEHLAM , 4 , - - e 2 6 2 2 6 0 8 8 8 . C HA KOTI CHA KUTI 1 1 1 B lls , 7 , 9 , , 9 ( ) . 3 7 , 44 , 45,

Wm . 1 1 . e or 1 . B ntinck , L d , 3 55 - - B O . P CHAND PA R 1 0 1 08 . HAM , 49 54 CHAND UR ( ) , 7 CHA NTA MUL 2 B 1 . A 1 HIMBER , 7 4 (GHAUT MALLA ) , 5 ,

S ee B odaw a a. 1 . Bhodaw Phaya. P y 55 ' ’

B H 1 2 1 . Clza l z: Clza lees Tsa li s Cka l zes HUTAN ILLS , p ( p , p , p ) , - V AR 6 B I B anc. I A YESV A 1 . 1 8 J EHARA , J , 5 9 .

B P 1 2 . ha 1 1 B ILA SHIPA R I C rs . ( ILASI ARA) , 3 , 7 d B zuru a a e e o . 1 1 . in , J p n s g , 7 7 CHATTAR , 3 9 , 54

r 6 1 1 8 1 8 . Clza tti 1 8 Bi ds , 5 , , 9 9 . ’ B W 1 1 1 2 2 . ba uk a B C m r 8 1 . ISHNATH ( IS ANATH) , 9 , ,

B O 1 6 6 1 8 1 . C AU GZO CHUNGZOU 1 N 8 . AD DAL , , H N N ( ) , - - B Mm B a o B o d aw a a a o 1 0 . p y ( d n , d n CHEDUBA ISLAND , 3 Ba u e a o e ab r 1 a e e . s ch n , d n M ng , Bh d n Ch n Riv , 7 4 Thek en Bhodau hra Bho - d aw C/zen a rs C/zen aa rs C/zeena rs Cm ar g , p , ( , , , B hodaw B u a B hodaw Clzzna r 1 1 - 1 6 bhoora s 8 8 8 . , h r , ) , 3 , 5 w a a B od oah ra h n a a B oda C e uza . S ee S u . Ph y . P y , p , g ing Min B o o Pl ah or e ara Cielza tm 0 8 8 B odoa ra . p , d y ) M nt , 3 , 6 ‘ 6 0 Cﬁ/zoza Izaz rz C/zfzoti haz i ri 1 1 6 . gyn 3 7 . 45. . 7 ( ) , - 1 1 . O N A P R O G U 1 1 . B GRA , 5 CHII TA , 4 = - - 6 B ow K la n e tree 1 8 1 8 . 67221 1 8 . ( ) ﬁ , 5 , 9 B otata u n B OTA TOU NG O a B a r Buckeer Bucki r g ( , B TAH Chin ki ( , ) light ,

O 1 . 1 0 . T UNG) , 7 , 3 4 3 BRA HMP R - B P UT 1 1 1 . RAHMA UTRA RIVER ( ) , CHINARI , 43 44 , 55 - - 1 0 1 1 1 2 . e e 2 . 7 , 7 3 Chin s , 4

bl u heron 1 8 . e e B re or e e t a a 1 1 2 . g , 9 Chin s pl nts ,

A . 1 1 2 . C ra 0 B ru e . e 2 c , C , hin c , 5 , 5 .

B e obe 1 1 1 . C H o S ee u . ru nza . S b c , R rt , hing in y shin - u a the 2 . C/zi n lon clzi nlone kk ee loon c/zi n B ddh , , 4 ( , y , - B u d a the our 2 2 2 . 101 m 0 2 d h s , F . 3 4, 4 ) , 7 , 7 . m - 6 B u . 1 2 . ddhis , 5 CHITRAL , 4

B U LG AON 1 . O 1 02 1 0 , 55 CHITTAG NG ( ISLAMABAD) , , 4 B U NIA R B B B HANIAR ( ANIAR , ANYAR , , B HA NIER B HANIYAR C O K A RNAPHULI , , BHAWANI HITTAG NG RIVER ( ), - G R 1 1 1 2 1 . 1 0 O ) , 5 5 , 55 5 ke a f a n d /zum 1 Chi tta n i an 6 B u r ] or N o s 1 0 . , f ) , 57 , g , 49 , 71 /z 1 6 0. 6 7 C erson Chersonesus A a rea 1 . e ( ) ,

204 THE ROMANTIC EAST

G O O 1 08 1 2 1 1 2 HMA WWUN MOWOON . C 1 ALUND , , , 3 ( ) , HAUNG , 4 . G OHRA GULLY O 1 1 H on /é or S hoveller D uck 1 0 (GH RA GULLY) , 3 , , 9 . - H ON K . S ee IR AWA D I IANG . O G - h E H sen u hen . O KTEIK 8 . s S ee S b u G KTEIK ( ) , 7 9 4 g py g in y shin . Gok e k V a - H SI H P u 8 1 8 2 . T 8 t i i d ct , PAW ( SI AW , HIBAW) , 3 . G o 2 . H H 8 0 . ngs , 9 SUM SAI , Gora l ou a l H i t B r 1 1 u r mes . S ee t 6 1 e i tee . (g ) , 57 , . ( ) ( ) Gota m a P a lz 2 H A SP S . YD E BID ASPES E S ee . ( ) , 4 ( ) . J HLAM G OUNGZAYGYOU N GAU N AY YAU N ( GT G ,

- 8 . be Ca ra S i oi mca 1 1 6 0 1 6 1 . 5 I x ( p ) , 57 ,

Ga m 2 0. m er a oa 1 y , I p i l R d , 7 3 . G ea a o a u me 6 om arab o 8 . e o er a 1 . r t P g d , M l in , Inc p l M n st y, 7 fﬁ r o Leo r hs . 1 . Gri ns (G yph ns , g yp ) , 7 7 INDUS RIVER , 7 5

O O 1 . IRAWA D I ERAWU D D Y IRA B ATBY GR VE P INT , 4 ( . , 1 1 IRRA WA D I GUJRAT (GUJERAT) , 3 4 , 7 4 . , IRRAWADDY , IRRA u ab S a a a a u ab W U D V A VA or HON - K G l ingh , M h r j (Gh l , ) , , IANG , 5, ab - o 1 . 1 6 2 G l ) , 7 9 4 . LMU R 1 Irawadi raw GU G 6 1 1 . a o a 8 8 GULMARG ( ) , 4 , 7 4 , 93 (Ir ddy) Fl till , 3 , 4 , ’ Gu u a 1 - 8 . 6 2 1 . , 9 54 , 9 Guzouz or ele ha n t oad ISA B A IS I . R O S B UR 1 8 . p g , 3 4 ( ISHIB RI , ) , 3 G W B K OLAHOI 1 ANATNA G 1 6 1 ASH RARI ( ) , 7 5, ISLAMABAD ( ) , 5, 7 5, 8 6 8 . 1 . GYAING RIVER , 5 G i . O 1 0 . y , 47 ISLAMABAD (CHITTAG NG) , 5 K 1 1 . ISLAMABAD ( ASHMIR) , 47 , 55 H ab a H abb a H uba K a a 1 6 or carvm 1 ( , ) d l , 5. Iv y g , 9 , 9 3 . H - 8 1 1 1 . AJI PIR RIVER , 47 4 , 49 H H 1 6 a a r 1 1 8 1 8 AMADAN ( AMDAN ) , 5. J h ngi , 73 , 3 , 4 . H a n al K or B a ras m /z 1 6 0 YNTE H H . A 1 1 . g ( ) g , JAINTIA (J ) ILLS , 5 H n zs H a a ﬁ z 1 8 8 . P A 1 1 2 j ( ) , JAI UR , SSAM , . H am H a u a n t/za n P s lze b a i /2a the 1 1 . ( , , ) , JAL AIGURI , 5 m a m - a a a 1 6 6 1 6 . J M sm (J i) , 7 H HA RA K m e MOU 1 a o . W m . 1 1 . ARAMUKH ( ) , 7 4 . J s n , Dr , 3 H A R N A A GA O 1 0 . U MMOO 1 2 1 J , 9 JAMMU (JAMU , J ) , 5, 7 5, H H RV PA A T anc 1 . ARI PARBAT ( ARA ) , . 7 9

S A R I K A PA RVA TA 1 6 1 6 ATINGA 1 0 . , 3 , 7 . J , 9 H 1 08 A RITRA T H AR PRA T 1 1 A TING A . ( ) , 53 , 55. J RIVER , H A 1 2 6 1 2 B ED A STA B EHUT ASAN BDAL , , 7 . JEHLAM ( , BEHAT , , H H 1 1 B ID A SPE S G HELU M HYD A SPES ATTIAN ( ATIAN) , 43 , 55. , , , ’ H z A M HELA M a uzla a r ser ean t 6 6 . A IL g , J , JELUM , J , JHELUM , ’ H a wa la t Khu a H ILU M HYLU M VE D A STA VE A T a 1 . H , 9 5 J , J , , , H EA L 1 8 6 VETA STH A V VI D A STA V IT AZRAT , . , ETH , , ' ’ H en -tlza H enz a or rudd slzzela rake VYA TH 1 2 6 1 - 1 g ( ) y , ASTA , ) RIVER , , 3 4 55,

8 1 6 . 7 . 3

H ENTHA WA D I . S O 1 . , 3 9 JEHLAM TATI N , 3 4

M R H 1 2 2 . H 8 . H A NSI U ENZADA , 3 J (JANJI MA 1 2 1 H I HA M K E HA . izz$ 1 0 C A C . ( ) , 5 , 55 f 9 H T P P 1 08 T PP 1 1 . ILL I ERAH ( I ERA) , , 5

H 1 1 1 1 K A B OU NG . IMALAYAS , 7 , 9 . RIVER , 43

Hi ue Hieun T a 6 K K A B U ET 6 2 . n T a 1 . si ng ( s ng) , 7 ABWET ( ) , 59 ,

OO K C S ee . H r . o . LAING RANG N RIVER , 3 3 A HAR CACHAR ’ - H l e ack 8 K a aw ra e 0 . la el le lz e l . p ( p , p ) , 3 chin (Ching p ) c , 5 , 53 - Hm a Na aw or a a a e 6 . n nd Gl ss P l c , 5 INDEX 205

- - K O K O 8 6 1 K b ee loon . See Cbi n loon AD ( AD E) , , 9 9 5. y . K A ISHANG A NGA NA G 1 . K K K J PEAK , 7 4 ( ISAN ISHEN K ak san da Katha ah 2 1 1 ° I u ( p ) , 4 . 3 7 , 4 » 7 4 K K L KO 1 - 1 8 1 -1 A O A D YN K OOLA D AN 1 8 . ALAD N ( , , HALA , 3 3 3 , 54 55, 9 - - KU K O 1 1 0. 1 0 . LA DAN ) RIVER , 4 HIMA ,

K a le Ma ar or I bex 6 0 K obol 1 . y , 1 . , 7 7 K K K a a a 1 8 . KO O E E 1 2 2 lh n , 7 KILAMUKH ( . K A MA RB A N L A HOI G A SABRA R D HA AL I 1 0 1 1 0. KO 1 . , 7 , ( ) , 7 5 K a mkhur u 1 1 K OLOMA B A RI K 1 2 2 , 9 . ( AMLA . K a m rak/z or Ca ra moola 6 K on a am ana K ona amm a K au , 4 . g ( g , k

K P 1 1 a a 2 . AMRU , 5. k th n ) , 4 K KA NA A L K oonboun - m en K o -B ou B 1 6 . . ANBAL ( ) , 5 g ( hn ng Min)

K N WGYI S ee Tharawad i . A D A 0. , 3 ' - K zu K o i n a la or o . See Go zn y g y y y . K an a r K n K an 1 K S O a rz re 8 P 1 . g ( g , g ) , 7 . RISHNA H AL AND LIGHTSHI , 3

Kare ar a K arenn Cara ner K ub a K a 6 1 . n (C i n , , y , l i h n ,

Carri an Kar a K a e K a e K U LLI A N 1 . , i n , ry n , y n ) , , 54

K O . 6 2 . , 4 UME R AD , 43 ’ K arewa K areewa/z or Wua a r udar K O 8 2 - 8 ( ) ( ) , UNL NG FERRY , 3 .

K u r or addle K . 1 6 2 p ( . ’ K a r - i - kal a ma n i 1 6 0 K stu r ab or m usk deer 1 a , . u , 1 6 . K A RNA F r b - d - 1 6 K ARNA PH U L I U LI o K u a u . ( ) CHIT t din , 5 hod aw o - o- w O 1 0 . K ut a a KOO o da TAG NG RIVER , 5 P g d ( th , - - K S ee K A YON . Ku thod au 0 1 . ARUN . , 9 7 ) , 7 7 - - K A n K 1 0. K U T I U T KU L a c . K R ARUNG RIVER , 3 KUL ( ) , SI MEER - K C A SH 1 6 . ASHMIR (CASHMERE , , TIKA KULYA , 5 1 2 - 2 Kwa -la K onla CA SHMIR 00. a o a 8 . ) , 4 ng ( ) P g d . 5 1 2 k u K ai k K a-lun- un K a k K . K a ASHMIR CITY , 5 y i p n ( y p , y i - - - K a m 1 1 1 6 1 8 0 1 1 . aw a o a 2 sh iris , 57 59 , 7 , 9 3 94 p ) P g d , 4 .

K as lzu r or K a shmi r i la n u a e 1 2 . K ai k thanlan a o a ou me 8 8 g g , 4 y P g d , M l in ,

K A SHUR or 1 1 . 0. DARYA JEHLAM , 4 9

K a a a G awna oh n 2 . K 8 sy p ( g g) , 4 YANGIN , 3

K H 8 8 6 2 . K KYANHUYAT K ATHA ( ATHA) , 47 , 4 , 5 , YANHNYAT ( . YAN

K K K KWE 8 . HYA T 8 6 OU N 2 . AUKKWE ( ) RIVER , 5 ) , 5 , m d w K oon m oodaw 2 K a u n h u a K 6 . g ( g ) YAUKMYAUNG , 59 , 6 P KY K Y K a o a . K OU K OO OU P g d , 4 YAUK YU ( PH , S ee K K T . S . PHYOO YOU KPYU 1 0 1 0 . AUNG AUNG AWADI , ) , 3 , 4 - K K K A YO N K . K YOU KSE . ( ARUN , AYUN ) CAVES , 9 7 YAUKSE ( ) , 45

K A NA G 1 . K nbi a n zlot K NA G a bri 1 0 . AZI ( J ) , 7 4 y , p g , 3 M H I HA A . MA . S ee C K d ol 1 1 . K ECHA y , C 3

K K EMA ND INE K K YE TA G A U NG 8 . EMMENDINE ( , EMEN , 5 - - K E MIND INE KYE EMYENG K el s/za let u or ra er la s 2 . DINE , , y g p y f g , 5

. w K EMMIND INE K e a a o a . DAING , ) , 3 3 , 3 5 y P g d , 47 K z- wezn 1 0. . K eus , 9 y g , 7 3

- - K lzarwala 1 . K ou d aw i or o a o a er , 9 5 y ng gy R y l M n st y ,

1 . 1 9 5. 7

K O K H K ou n : K zau ms K au n s . See HASI (C SSYAH , HASIA ) ILLS , y g , y g )

1 0 1 1 1 2 0. 7 , 5, ’ ’ Klzea aahs K eddak 8 . ( , 4 ’ b 6 2 1 8 . K /zoaal z 1 0 . a our 1 1 1 1 1 , , 9 L , 4 , 3 , 7 - K HOLAB A ND H A 1 2 . a ue 1 6 0 6 1 1 6 0. , 3 L cq r , 5 , ,

Kizawa r K 1 8 8 . , 1 6 0 , 1 . ( ) , LADAKH 7 5 206 THE ROMANTIC EAST

MP 1 1 2 H 1 1 . 0. LAKHI UR , , 5 MANDALAY ILL , 7 M - K 1 0 M P 1 1 0 . 1 08 . LA SA , 7 ANI UR ,

1 1 0 . P O 1 1 0 LANGTING , MANI UR R AD , . ar Man /i i Ma n a 1 06 . i 1 6 2 1 8 1 1 L sc s , y ( g ) , , 7 . 9 . O 8 2 0 LASHI , 45, 7 9 , . MANMAW , 5 . au e Prmce i n me MANPWE M P ss. S ee Sh bo . 8 . L ngsh ( AN UR) , 3 EH M M L 1 . N ER H A S A 1 2 6 . , 7 5 ANSIRA ( ) , e k - a- an Ta P MANUSB AL k e u . 1 8 . L i py g n , g , 3 9 LAKE , 9 ' ' ‘ Le et Let et o : a Marabou eat e r Le lz et i ckled te . r 1 02 . p , p , p p f h s , Marblzban 1 1 . . LIFFEY ISLAND . 4 , 9 5 Thro e 6 Marblzor Ca ra Fa l oneri . c 1 1 6 0 . Lily n , 5 ( p ) , 57 , i n a r n MAR N r N L o Li a m 1 1 . o MAR 1 6 6 g g , 5 ULLAH ALLI , o T ro e 6 6 6 8 arr a e urm a 6 Li n h n , 5, 7 , . M i g in B , , 7 . L0 r K hmi 8 11 o as ri ox 1 6 1 . M 8 0 f , ARTABAN , 3 , 5, 9 . LOH IT LUH IT 1 G u f - E . M o 8 8 1 . ( ) RIV R , 9 ARTABAN , lf , 44 , 4 5

O 8 . or D A RE BA NK 8 L NG ISLAND , 5 MARTABAN RIVER , 5 ta 1 Ma - -koda M - - Lo s 8 . t tat w a t d w 2 t a a . , 9 ( y ) , 4 - lz MA Lou n o U 6 2 . g g , 55. , 59 , L un —a t o s . g , 55

O B M 1 0 . L WER UR A , 5. 3 7 7 - L K S ee . au auk or U . S S b u IANG ALWIN M ng L in y shin , 3 7 .

1 08 1 1 0 . Mau m o or o Mm 6 LUMDING , , ng (L hn ) Mind n , 9 . Lun i lolzn - ee lon i lun ee 8 Mau au e a Me gy ( gy , gy , g ) , , ng M ng (M ng Ch ng, ng 8 Lu Mom ien ou Men ou 7 4 . 7 , , M ng , M ng

H 1 . e or Paon oza 1 . LUSHAI ILLS , 5 M ng) g , 3 7 - Mau Po i . S ee Thebaw Mi ng gy n . Ma Mrs Mi ss Mau S we Hla 2 , , 7 7 . ng h , 9 , 9 4 .

Mau Tau . ee a Ma areo . S an c , 44 ng ng P g Min . MATI E 2 Mau W a or B o- daw- a a MA D HU 1 1 . . RIV R , ng ing p y , 3 7 6 Mau Ye Hla or a zb 1 . S u Ma . g , 4 , 7 ng ing Min , 3 7

E 1 . au Yin au 6 M H O . A AD , 7 5 M ng M ng , 3 d 6 - AY li Maﬁa/t Gan a 2 2 . A SU M nc MA K I KA MI Ma a M a . S SVA N ( ) , 7 , , Maham ani Mahamani Ma a M at 1 6 ( , h h y 3 . e e 0 6 - M O O MA Y-M or P u . U M n ) , 7 , 7 7 7 AYMY (MAIM , ) YIN - a ara a a ara a 1 . 8 0 8 8 . M h j (M h j h) , 7 9 ULWIN , 7 9 , , 3 4 - Mahaze di za 2 . 1 0 . ydi) , 4 MEGHNA (MEGNA) RIVER , 7 ’ ‘

MEI K I ILA . akoui . M , 3 4 , 44 - - W - Maks i r Ma/ weer Mabsei r or P a i ri m Mem sabi b Mem S abi b . ada m S alzi b ( , ) ( , ),

Gad 1 1 1 2 . , 9 , 9 - i a a a - M er M 1 1 0. Me ara AHUR , nt gy (M nt y dyi , ind u a a i S ee Bo - daw Ma/z P a 2 . aw i ara . y y , 7 y , Mint gy ) .

N IN 1 . MA IMA S GH , 1 5 / K Mi n a/z n a 1 1 8 Jl[zmu z 1 1 . Ma i n as Mi n a M . ( , , y ) , ( ) , 9 M o Mendoon Men dun Mi nd ohn Ma ze . i , 45 ind n ( , g , , Mi ndoon Men Me or ) Min ( , ng)

1 2 . au w 2 6 6 6 . MALAKAND , 4 M ng L in , 3 , 3 7 , 3 , 4, 9 MEN 1 1 . O O MALDAH , 5 MING N (MINGUN , MENG HN , - 8 6 2 OO 8 6 0 6 2 . MALE , 5 , . G N) , 4 , 59 , A M S K Mi n la 1 1 8 E . MANASB L lz . ( ANA BALL) LA , - Mi a i S ee Me ara i . nta . S ee MANU SBAL . y Gy nt gy

MIR 1 8 6 . Ma n au l , 1 6 1 . HA L ,

- - 6 6 8 MERI ND 1 1 . M 0 6 1 6 . MIRGUND GO ANDALAY . 9 , 45, 4 , , , 3 7 ( ) , 53 55

208 THE ROMANTIC EAST

Pa a Pu a e Men or Pravaras ena a a 1 2 g n ( g n) Min (M ng , ) , R j , 5 T au au 1 . O 6 1 . M ng ng , 3 7 , 7 PR ME , 5, P O O or T ro u o G IN 1 0 . 1 8 8 . AG DA P INT HAY , 3 P stit ti n , 7 , 43 , a o 6 - 1 em la a 1 . o u P m us o e aeu 1 . P g d s , 9 Pt l y ( C di t l s ) , P a i ri m Ga d P u lalzra r t or M k 1 1 . o s ra w sa nd l a si r , 9 als . See P a a labru 1 a br u P . , 7 8 .

a au a aw ra e 0 . P a lou a P l ng (P l ) c , 5 . 53 r (aw y ) , 7 4 P OO 1 . P 1 . ALHALAN , 55 UNCH ( P NCH , PRUNTS) , 3 4 Pa la ua e P u tsoe aso oot 1 . 8 . li ng g , 7 (p , p P 6 P we ooee oo-a u - 1 . a wa i 6 . PAM UR , 5 (p , p y , p y , p , 7 3 7 P we-w n ta a a a 1 1 . ei or s e P nd v , 5 g g , 7 3 .

P PA NTSAL S ee P . ANJAL ( ) . IR PANJAL PYINMANA , 43

Paon oza. S ee au au . g M ng M ng, 3 7 ' P a i er - m aeli e Ka r -i -bal a mda n i 1 60 P p ( ) , , YUNTAZA , 43

1 8 2 . '

ar ab S 1 . uee s o e o a er 6 6 6 . P t ingh , 7 9 Q n G ld n M n st y , 3 , 4, 7 as P o. S ee P u tsoe , 8 .

- - a o for K a m r 1 2 8 1 2 . a wa 8 8 8 1 2 P ssp rt sh i , 9 R il ys , 3 , 3 4 , 7

i P TA N 1 . a fa 1 1 1 0 an c A T A 1 . PATAN , , 53 , 55 R in ll , , 7 R a a ta ra n zn i 1 6 1 8 . a a 1 8 1 . P th ns , , 7 7 , 7 9 j g , 7 - H . R A D IANG A N P or T 1 . PAUNG LAUNG ILLS , 44 J ASS RAGBAL , 7 4 - P awas or ta bet 1 1 . , 9 . RAJSHAHI , 5 K mab u n K n P a a 1 6 . a or s ow leo ard 1 6 y ( ) p , 0 Ma a M a B Pa a a a ee or 1 8 6 . y gyi ( P y h gy ) h y t RAM MUNSHI AGH , - - m a 6 . P RAMPORE 1 1 1 1 ni , 7 7 7 RAM UR ( ) , 49 5 , 55, — - - a oun bob n ee P au n bon . 1 6 1 . P y g g . S y g g 9 9 7 P POOZOOND OU NG R a mree 1 0 AZUNDAUNG ( , RAMRI ( ) ISLAND , 3 . PUZUN PUZWON- O Ranbi r S a a a a 1 . DAUNG , D UNG) ingh , M h r j , 7 9

1 2 0 1 2 . CREEK , 3 3 . RANGAMATI , , 3 P O S 1 2 0 OO O TA EAC CK I LAND , RANG N ( RANGUN , DAG N , - - - PE 8 8 . OO OO 1 0 2 2 6 2 GU , 3 43 , 4 K N , YAN K N) , , 3 7 . ,

1 . PEGU RIVER , 4 , 3 3 - P S . P 1 1 . EGU ITTANG CANAL , 3 9 RANG UR , 5

P G EWEN. S ee B ALU GYU N. a S 1 ELEW R njit ingh , 7 9

e ro eum 6 1 1 1 1 . 1 1 . P t l , , RARA , 3 9 , 54

R ee M C . 1 . PH A U M. S FAR AVES , 9 7 RATAN (RUTTEN ) PIR , 7 3 - N WA P li eran 1 1 8 . RA LPIND EE , 77 7 RAWAL PI DI ( , P PA NTSAL P 1 PIND EE 1 2 2 1 2 1 2 IR PANJAL ( ) ASS , 3 4, RAWAL , , 7 , 9 , 6 I 1 1 1 1 1 - 1 1 2 1 - 1 4 . 7 S . 7 4 3 , 3 7 , 54 55, 7 , 9 9 2 00

- P 1 2 1 8 0 . e 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 a ue . l g , , Ric , , 3 3 , , 4 1 o K an . a ake daw i a POHU R O oo 0. ( P HRU) RIVER , 9 3 R y l L ( gy ) , R ng n , 3

POL ASH B A RI 1 2 . o a o a e a a a K ou (PALAS 3 R y l M n st ry , M nd l y ( y ng n - / ee b u n /i - P n i b on i lz oo d aw i 1 . o gy ( p gy , p g , p gg , gy ) , 7 /zon /zz bon ee lzon i /zoon ze o a a a e a a a 6 -6 p g , p gy , p gy , p g , R y l P l c , M nd l y , 5 9 . - / lzn e on d z oon ee Ruanwel /zun z o e i a ob a 1 8 . p g , p gy , p y , p g ) D g , - or tela oi n 2 0 2 1 . ub e 8 . p , R i s , 5 ' - P on i b a n or m on b s un era l , . 1 . gy y f 7 5 RUTTEN (RATAN ) PIR , 7 3 /i k oun s K au n s K zau ms P ong y g ( g , , S A D - 1 00- 1 01 . DAN CAVE , h Ma a r- d - 1 Pra ab Pertab orta S Sa u 6 6 . t ( , P ) ingh , h d din , ’ ﬁa a r i r Safe. Sa Ka o h e 1 6 8 ( ) d l 7 B idg , ,

VARAPURA . S ee S 1 2 . 1 8 8 PRA RINAGAR , 5 INDEX 209

S P 1 Sben See S k n . i 2 0 AFA UR , 7 4 g . , . S a ed chetah ou n ce or s n ow leo a rd S G 1 1 1 6 1 6 1 6 6 f , p , HER ARHI , 53 , 55, 3 , 5, , 1 1 6 0 7 3 . S CHA G A ING H EG A IN S A S S 1 2 1 C . AGAING ( , . HERI ( HIR ) , 5 , 55 - - S AYYIN T S A G A IN 6 6 . S /zzba ra S li zfeada a rda a rab a rra GAIN , , ) , 4 , 7 ( , , , ) - - b - S a a . S ee B a i daw or s a r 1 6 1 1 6 2 1 8 1 g ing Min gy . , . Sa - ka O 2 . S 1 2 0 . , 4 HILL NG , Sa a u 2 S ki n S ben S b i n . la un 2 0 ky M ni , 4 ( g , g ) , . S S S A LWEN S A L S b i n - bi n -t/za - lzla a un s n - bi n - t/za ALWIN ( ALWEEN , , y g ( W S ALU OE N TH A N B a un or ou n 2 1 NLWE . EIN , , ( ) y g y g ) , 5, 4 or LU - K Shi n bo m e ue e - - , 8 , 8 , 0 . , Q Sm b oo m e or IANG 3 5 9 n ( y ) , S S ee S Alenan daw 6 6 AMBAL UMBAL . , 4 , 9 S amkaravarm an K 1 S bwc S/zoa S boe a 8 8 . S /zoo S bwa ( 3 ing , 53 ( y , , y , y ) Sam o a 1 1 . v rs , 59 9 m Sa a 1 1 0 S O . p ns , 4 , 4 HWEB , 47 ’ S C TOP 1 6 S lzwec/zzao work 2 AN HI E , , 9 S O S we a o B a 1 0 1 0 . o a u om AND WAY , 3 , 4 h D g n ( g hn , D g n fr Sa arwaza 1 6 Ta a Tak oon a o a 1 1 ngin D . 7 l ing ) P g d , 4 , 5, - S A NGRA MA 1 1 2 2 2 . . 53 , 55. 9 , 3 9 Sa kar A S SHWEGOO 8 8 ar a 1 6 . 6 2 n ch y , 3 HWEGU ( ) , 4 , 5 , . S S we - u zale or S we - k - al e 1 2 1 . u 1 . ARAN , 4 , 55 h g h g , 4

S AR A R NP S . U UR G 1 1 . ARDENS , 3 HWEHLE , 43 w - m aw- daw - m — - S ARISANGA R 1 . Sh e a a m aw daw PASS , 7 4 h d , , S -m a a o 1 0 o a 0 . AVAGE ISLAND LIGHT , 4 . d ) P g d , 3 9 , 4 - - S S A WNAD D Y or K S we ku i a o a 2 . AWADI ( ) AUNG h gy P g d , 4 T 6 2 S W NA MMA w AUNG , 57 , . H ELI ( , LUNGKIANG , S AYA HA 1 S H U ELI SHWELEY 8 , 7 5 , ) RIVER , 5 S we - nadaw 1 h , 4 . S - - S ED A w . B IN 8 . , 7 9 HWE NYAUNG , 5 - N 8 S izwe - a t/za t 6 SE E , 3 py , 7 . - wezn S we - tach u S ei n . a n 1 . g g , 7 3 h g , 4 w i n S a rao 1 1 S we - a au S cro H d . 1 6 ( ) , 57 , . h th y ng , 45 - - w - - - w 6 1 R e w n D a . S P PO PO anc . S S a da Sa HADI UR , RE) , HAHA h ts n ) , ' - we - z t- a d s t S b e d w r ud ha oo 8 . B U D D INP UR 1 8 8 1 8 . o B , 9 f , 7 hah - d - 1 C 1 1 0 1 1 S ab u 8 8 . S A din , IBSAGAR DISTRI T , SSAM , , 5 - - S a H am a a S ah I Ham a a S i b o See b o a o a 6 0. h h d n ( h d n , y ( y ) P g d , S a H am a m o ue 1 6 1 6 S i dau 1 h h d n ) sq , 3 , 5 , 7 5

S a a o a ou m e 8 6 8 8 . ign l P g d , M l in , , 6 6 1 k 1 6 6 S a a a 1 8 1 8 6 S 1 1 8 1 . h h J h n , , 3 , . i hs , , 7 9 , S - SHALA HMAR S C 1 08 HALIMAR AMAR , ) IL HAR , B 1 8 1 1 8 - 1 8 1 8 6 S IL G 1 2 0 1 2 2 AGH , , 3 5, HAT , , . H 8 S . S HAN ILLS , 43 ilk , 7 .

S ar Tai a e 0 S e e 8 . h i ( ) r c , 44 , 5 , 53 . ilv r Min s , 3 - 1 0 war e 1 0 . S S 8 0 . S er 6 HAN TATES , , ilv , 3 5 3 7 , - l k T lake b u Hse hb ushen Hse n h S a Ta o Ti o s o 2 . S n h n l k ( , ) , 5 in y shin ( g y g , g S 6 us he n Shembuan T sen - b o - e n HANZU , 7 , 7 7 py g , , y y , T e Ze m i us ci en S H AP IYO N SHA PEYA N 1 1 . u oo e ( ) , 7 3 , 7 4 s ng py sh ng , p Shar a Sba r oo Ovi s m n ec 1 p ( p , g ) , 57 , 3 7 C 1 1 6 0 1 6 1 . S S S , IND ( INDE , INDH ) RIVER , 7 5,

6 2 1 8 8 . S . HEINMAGA , 59 ,

S heba 1 1 S i n /za ra n u ts 1 8 1 1 . , g , 7 , 9

IN IG H AT S ING A R IG HAT 1 2 . Shembuan S ee S b u . S GR in y shin ( ) . 3 27 21 0 THE ROMANTIC EAST

S u Mu 8 Che n uza S i n u e Ta a or n ra e 1 . ing Min ( g , gg M ng , l ing c , 5, 3 , 3 9 , 5 S u- zu T e - oo -m e Tsen oo Ta la ozn or u mbrella over a oda ing , s ng g ng , g p p g m n e . n a me i ven b P ortu e e t B ur mese ) , 3 7 g y g u s o S 8 6 2 m onks 2 . INKAN , 4 , 57 . . , 3 S i n m - - u ashi n . S ee hinb m T A FU TA i Ho TA LE Foo S o e . py LI ( HSIEN , , S i r S eer S er 1 1 T FU TA - -O T A - - FU or ( , ) , 3 . ALI , LI , LI ) S SERA G 0 - G U NG E 1 2 . 1 . IRAJGANJ ( J ) , 3 ARAJAN , 5 5 S S ITOUNG TS ITTA NG TSIT To mei n ta meb n nta -mi en or a -c/zzt ITTANG ( , , ( , ) O T UNG) RIVER , 5, 3 9 , 43 , 44 . S ak e -b Tam 2 - 6 . 1 . n ird , 5 ils , 3 , 3 S ow eo a Feli s u ncza or Sa e T P TA I TA PENG A n L p rd ( ) f d A ING ( PING , ) RIVER , e a ee a 1 6 0 0 Ch t h (ch t h) , . 5 S o o 6 T TA K U TI 1 1 . A . n , , 7 4 S OP tt om 2 SOPO an c . SU YYA P U RA 1 Ta o . UR ( R ) , , 9 3 g , 4 - SOU VE RNA B T MYO . S ee A P . 1 . HUMI , AUNG MARA URA

- - S S R INA G U R S ERINA G UR T NGYO T GNYO H . RINAGAR ( , , AUNG ( AUNG ) ILLS S T P S RINA G A RA S 6 . URJYANAGAR , , HRI AUNGU PASS , 7 N E T S ROONNU GGER or PR A . AGARA , ) AWA , 3 9 - V A RA P U RA 1 2 1 2 6 1 2 1 1 6 T 1 . , 5, 7 , 3 4 , 3 , AWI RIVER , 7 4 - 1 1 8 . Ta zou n Taz au n 2 8 . 55 7 g ( g ) , Sri sanatan a m Sab a 1 6 8 T ea Ta Te 1 1 1 - 1 1 1 1 - 1 2 0 Dh r h , ( y , ) , 5, 9 S a ar T m e Teak 2 2 6 6 8 t nd d i s , 3 9 . . 5. 3 . 3 3 . 3 4 . 43 , 5 .

S SA U L KU SI 1 2 Te m e a u e 1 02 1 1 6 1 8 1 . UALKUCHI ( ) , 3 p r t r , , , u ba bda r 6 S 1 8 . T 8 , ENASSERIM , 5, 4 . S B A NSIR I - - TA N YU E O U 1 1 . T G RIVER , 9 ENG YUEH TING ( CH W , u an dha uee 1 T EN w T - - O S . GYECHo C g , Q n , 53 , ENG YU H CH W , Su e So ola Su a T oo -lai Tsulai T T - -H ING TU N l ( y , l y , s , ) ENGYUEH , UNG YUEH ,

a o a 1 Y W 0 . 1 8 . E O TENGYE CHE or O P g d , , 3 , ) M MEIN , 5 S R 1 2 S 1 8 . T P TEZPORE or SONITPU 0 UMBAL ( AMBAL) RIVER , 9 EZ UR ( ) , ,

Su e 1 2 . 1 2 2 . nni s ct , 4 Su a a ale 6 TH A B E IKK YIN THA B EITKIN TH ABE IT p y g , 5 ( , 6 Su a a i 6 6 T 6 2 . p y gy , 4 , 5, 9 KYUN , HABEITKYIN ) , 59 , Su a a-lat SOO - a a - Lat uee 6 T/zabzn 1 1 p y ( p y h ) , Q n , 4. . 6 6 i n - hi b 1 1 . 9 Tl abzn ma Ma S a , _ 5

S 1 08 T S O 1 0 . URMA RIVER , HANDWE ( AND WAY) , 3

Sutoo 1 8 Tba r 1 1 6 1 . , 3 , 57 , S e 1 2 w i harawadd T ar c . Thara ad T a y , 3 ( y , h r S 1 1 wa T a awa e YLHET , 5 ddy , h y di) Min (M ng) , S SI RIA M S 1 YRIAM ( , YRIAN ) , 4 3 7 S r am a o a 1 That nabain K ou 1 ha . y i P g d , 4 . g y ng , 7

THAYG IN O O 1 0 . ( PAG DA P INT) , 3 z T bet s a . a c T . rf , 9 HAZI , 44 T T O 8 6 2 Thebaw Thebau Theebaw T baw AGAUNG ( AG UNG) , 5 , ( , , hi ) Ta on - da i n s Ta un Ta - le/cwoon or au Po - i 6 6 g g ( g Min M ng gy , 3 7 , 4 , 5, - Ta o/zn dei n 1 . 6 0 g g ) , 4 9 . 7 , 7 5

T . The i ddatha Theidat the B u a 2 . AGUNDAING , 45 ( ) , ddh , 5

Ta bs cldar Tebs i lder 1 . THEING U TTA RA THEHNGOOTTARA ( ) , 9 5 ( ) k o e 0 Tai d aw a . H 2 2 . M n st ry , 7 ILL , ’ T i nk K a a 1 6 - a i . Tlzztsi tfi i i sce tb i see 6 1 . d l , 5 ( , ) , T - I - S U LA IMA N S ULIMA N SULE I T 8 0 O . AKHT ( , H NDAUNG , 6 r GOP A D R I 1 1 8 6 . o Thu arama a oba 1 6 . MAN ) , 3 , p D g ,

N O . TA K O . S ee O O Ti blee btz tee 1 1 6 6 . RANG N ( , , ) , 7 ,

c, 5 C I V 5 u e o e e e e e b ut e fe w w o e p , I N r c rd th ir x ri nc s v ry h s h e x e e e r O er a e s o we wo o D e as MJ xp i nc s ll rth r c rding those c ontaine d in this goodly volum e Mr D el Mar o we e mu m o e a a , h v r , is ch r th n g ob e - o e o u he ran ou the wo I I I O l lG H l tr tt r, th gh r nd rld in som e e ight m o nths he is a well - equ ipped a e e kn owm we w a an d h ow to see tr v ll r , g ll h t and e a He w e W e n d ow . a e a e h r rit s ith s p r , e o a a a e a wa e s tting f rth n rr tiv l ys Vivid , int r olate d W a u e and u ob e a o p ith c t j st s rv ti ns , indicating insight a nd e ve n a sort of rapid e ea an d ab o u e ee o m the r s rch , s l t ly fr fr Silly sentim e nt an d crude ego ism that ch aracterise in O ne Volume D emy 8VO s o m any b ooks of this kind . In his tre atm e nt of J apan Mr D el Mar e o m th n i wki sh u Cloth W ith 50 Fullf page is refreshingly fre fr e a g sh an d o e e ae e m W W e c nc it d sth ticis hich , ith pl nty o f a o a e and u b u e o m Illustrations h rdy ign r nc n l shing g is , m ak e u p the sto ck o f m any English an d Am e a e on a a e e ub e ric n writ rs J p n s s j cts . W e have ne ve r m et e lsewh e re With such Vivid an d true j i cture s o f the c uri ously SECO ED T O - ND I I N j umble d u p life ofm odern J apan D el Mar a a a e o f su es Mr . dds ch pt r gg ti ons which e very inte nding glob e - tro tter sh ould r ead “ A o e e the wo o ne of the bes [2 6 lt g th r rk is t O d 0 n t . S e m e o re o of a e we a e e a i pr ssi nist c rds tr v l h v r d , a nd the account o f m o dern Japan an d the Japanese is by far the fullest an d m ost truthful known to us Academy and Literature The b oo a e of a a n ot the k IS l rg ly J p n , a a o f the e u a but a a W e e e J p n nth si st , J p n st rnis d a n d to p -b a tted as see n by the observant globe - tro tte r who c an e nj oy the b eau ty an d o e Of the a a nd at the ame m e n v lty l nd , s ti take n ote o f Easte rn od ours an d i m o e e e The au o has n ot the p rt d d cad nce . th r lice nse d flight of the po e t n or the biasse d o of the m o a on the o e a Visi n issi n ry th r h nd , he does n ot wande r Wildly into discu rsive o and the e u a m a e - of- a p litics , r s lt is tt r f ct b oo a fle u a e a but a wa k , tri j dici l p rh ps , l ys accept able T he m ate rial is arrange d on a b o a o e e e a r ad pl n divided Into c nv ni nt h dings . The o b e m of the Far Ea the a the pr l s st , n vy , e o f a a an d m o a wo are cr dit J p n , issi n ry rk ea W b efl but the e e a ea e W d lt ith ri y , g n r l r d r ill ' grapple r athe r With the au thor s refle ctio ns o n the e e a e m e He e be the t rn l f inin . d scri s w o e o a e m e a and e a e h l s ci l syst in d t il , nl rg s u o the omt of i ew of the a a e e an d p n p V J p n s , m All o f of the trave ller of inquiring ind . w m a e oo ea and a u e u hich k s g d r ding , s f l

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o mm e a 15 ou the a f he c nt ry f nd in st tistics o t j ourney ; but he has m ade the diary deep o e ou the re ra nd , , a the o o e . e e and hO e a It m be div rc c rt gist r c r n r int r sting , his p th t ay For a e , o e e e to o e a e e n t i t Inst nc div rc s , s rvic th r tr v ll rs is o W ho e m a e e an d e a 000 u e ou a o T ou u h ill giti t childr n , n rly 9 s icid s f nd ti n hr gh o t t e little b istoi m e h ight giv t e thoughtful J apan es e foo d for there is c onspicu ous a ve in o f wh at is tran $ re f e o bu t the a a e e has n ot a atlanti call k ow as oo o e e e l cti n J p n s y n n g d h rs s ns . m a e m a a m a nd no a e a o Of th tic l ind , ppr ci ti n a o m n . e o e he ee n o e a o f or B r m Po st tistics M r v r , s s r s n i i g ha st a o the e a m o a o e f h p i g o t e W e . Mr D el Mar has the are k a k d t n l stic r l c d st . r n c The o u a e e to a e e c ncl ding p g s giv hints tr v ll rs , n o ting and inqu iring int o actuali ti es z b ut the o u m e as a w o e o e W l l , p t a e o a e of ue an d fre v h r vid d i h t k s c gnis nc living iss s , is e e e o o a af o a m e com xc ll nt ph t gr phs , f rds pl from gush th a n m o st chron iclers of trave ensati on to the a - at - om e p st y h . he has als o the courage to tou ch n pc p a e of l e u ually upp e e by oth Lon on G obe h s s if s s r ss d d l w e Ta e a o e e b oo whi rit rs k n lt g th r , this k , To a he a ou a e to Chin ssigns f r ch pt rs , is em b ellishe d With som e e ffe ctive i llustr a a as m a as e ee To a a ee J p y . J p , i , o m a b e e om m e e for a n n nin t n n nd d ti ns , y r c nd d its fr nk , i he a o 2 0 of 2 a e and on 4 4 5 p g , teresti n and ab o b ua It u cc rds his s it is g , s r ing q lity. f rnish a ou a he at o e m o ea ab e y IS l e u am usm an d u e ea th t c ntr th t nc st r d d lightf l , g , instr ctiv r ding an d m o u e In e e st Instr ctiv . this r sp ct his b o ok m ay be re comm e nde d as a ge ntle but York shire Heral d u ' effe e o e e to o e um e ou o m e W a er D el a o un l . b o A ro d t ctiv c rr ctiv th s n r s v s Mr lt M r s k , w a a an d the a a e e a e be e J p J p Wor ld tb rou /z J a an u o f i ntere s in hich n n s h v n g p , ll ’ is f e M D el Mar a ou eur de o e . r. p int d in c l r s , T ha t he has u sed his eye s an d understan d i i he o e e ua e e ow au if n thing xt n t s , s ts d n n ght is abund antly dem o nstrated in the volun m a e W e s ee n o of e u e in lic Sign pr j dic in be o e u s T e e m u a amu ’ f r h r is ch th t is si ‘ ' a ou of the F e m a o f the Ea . D l e a boo . D el his cc nt r nch n st in Mr . M r s k Mr . M The o e ar w he ffe om s o nly r g d in hich di rs fr leave s little or n o thing to b e inferre d ; m a of e e e o e e to ny his pr d c ss rs is in his d sir Speak s plainly of the so ci al custo m s of t be a ura e and u It ea to a a j . i y a a e e and e e the e m e o f 1 cc t st s s c st J p n s , h r in chi f rit am ou o e e a a but m u gl r v r lif in J p n , it is ch Inte resting work lies The b ook is lavish l w m ore to the u o e a we ou k o The au o o e a p rp s th t sh d n illustrate d . th r c ntriv s to imp the e a u abou an d e e a ab ou i , p lly u e u o m a o on e e a e an d x ct tr th t t s ci t s f l inf r ti n v ry p g , m e e er a o 1a1 and o e . its v yd y , s c , d stic Sid h ave no hesitati on in com m ending his wo to u e an d lo e of a e l an d adve The Field st d nts v rs tr v ture wh om n ece ssity or lack of su ital: D el Mar m a e the u ua to Mr . d s l trips o u kee at om e pport nity ps h . a o a ao and S a a an d e be C nt n , M c , h ngh i , d scri s was ll am e u e o e . a a a that c nd r his n tic J p n Glasg ow Herald he e ou e an d e e a a of t y , y n xt c ntr Visit d h r st Of e em e e e an d e e d u T xtr int r st n v r m ore th an three m onths was m ade . his Altogethe r we have here a m ost charm i i por o of the b ook 15 by tar the m o e e ti n st int r st b oo of a e wr e a b a k tr v ls , itt n in right i n as the au o em a e o e ou g , i g g th r r n d l n n h in a e pleas nt styl . the cou ntry to form an accurate o pini on o f the eal a e of a a r and had e e r st t ff i s , vid ntly S cots man m a e m elf a ua e W the be d hi s cq int d ith st U nusually full of solid i nform ati o au o e on the ub e . th riti s s j ct a u e ob e a o and a k m re o c t s rv ti n , fr n i p ssi ns

the a an d ou e e . Liverpool Po st l nds c ntri s Visit d A pa om po a an d e a i o a rt fr litic l int rn t n l W estmin ster Gazette o e a o e e has a wa bee a n i , l y c ns d r ti ns th r s n T o oug y m o e and n ot a a e In D ai N o h r hl d rn lit e e ake our n ew pp , ” int r st t n in lli s i n o u ar p p l . an d W a e D el Mar u e A rou n d Mr . lt r f rnish s in ’ S t. ames Ga e e f J z tt the Wor ld t/zrouglz j apan a vast Store o Co a a grea eal of a e ul i o m inform ati o n re garding the feature s of the nt ins t d c r f nf r e T e e country an d the m anners of its peo pl . h r York s re P os a the a om e o um e hi t is n othing p olitic l in h nds v l ,

S cots man Glasg ow News

' l Mar m a . D e o o e a lot of rou The re u of D l Mr y g v r g nd s lt Mr . e Mar s travels and a fe w we ek but he a wa o n the a e e ea e has b ee a b k w in s , is l ys l rt r s rch s n oo hich Should be w a to e ee or a u o f ea a s to h t is b s n he rd d ring his gr t use to inte nding travellers in our ra e an d can e an a o ea e e e t v ls , giv st nishingly Vivid gr t d p nd ncy . a ccou nt o f wh a t passes b efore h i m He a wa e o ab e an d o e is l ys nj y l , c nv ys in Gl g ow Herald light and breezy fashio n a gre at am oun t of as e e g o m a o as to W a m ay b e Mr. D e Mar int r stin inf r ti n h t l no t only t ells what the e e e e a a fe w e and pe I u g ou r an s n x ri nc d in ndi d rin y , d e be the ere and ' c nt is d scri s int sts m o ou om the m e o f No e m b er , l a e of eo e but a o a e and nths t r fr idd v ctiviti s its p pl , ls rr sts to the m e O f Ma iddl rch e ncha ins the atte nti o n with apposite historical S a - at- o m e peo p e ou n ot e y we m t y h l c ld v r ll su m aries an d service able passages of pic see the ou r eo e an d o y , p p , tori al e ea c nt its l its hist ric d lin ti on . rou a b e e a e o ope an “ Sights th gh tt r k l id sc th Always strong an d lum inous in his m an a o e b Mr D el Mar u e ue p y . P ner of e e m e the au o o as o a th t r vid d ict r sq pr s nt nt , th r cc i n lly an d are e p o o f the o u he Vivid his d scri ti ns t rs rise s to a strain of Sim ple but captivating has m a e out The e er e e e pp l p e o ue e—as for e am e w e he fi d tt r ss is nrich d l q nc , x pl , h n nds b a m a fi e e e o f u - a e u a ’ y gni c nt s ri s f ll p g ill str m e b the a e of the o or e e e hi s lf y cr dl g ds , r c iv s o e e e om o e r a ou a o o ti ns s l ct d fr v th s nd ph t pira o o m the e e of the Mu or $ ins ti n fr sc n s tiny ra g p . the a — hs c ptivating grace of the Taj M ahal and all a e W a e er m a b e m oo he in c s s , h t v y his d , No n am Ex re tti g h p ss conveys the im pression of o ne who Speaks at fi a an d e ea the a e m e o W a e D el Mar 15 a ra e e r n ot rst h nd , r v ls tr in d th ds Mr . lt r t v ll of a p e e a g an d u e ob er a o u nkn own to the reading public With a seeing n tr tin s r s v ti n e e an d an u e a m n ot a u y nd rst nding ind , r sh ’ in u b on o e ou but a g o e g g , t rist nt c v rin r nd The F e we - e u e e er i ld ll q ipp d trav ll . D M r a he e a e t e . el a e t to h D l Ma Mr l ds r d r Mr e r strikes out rather a new or eou a o am a OI a — em e g g p I p , e and o um e S ow e ea s n r ndi its t l s lin , in this v l h s v ry cl rly or e ou e e ea —n ot s o ea its g g s sc n ry , its h t gr t an d o e y how m o Of the g ea m o u — c ncis l st r t n as m o o f us mag e and ow The m e and am ou of a o m st I in its sn s nts f s Sights Indi , fr e u a a m a ru e boo r s lt is ch r ing , st id , inst ctiv k Madura in the sou th to the K h aib ar Pass on of a e a ou ry o f wh far too e the o - we ro e m a be ee a ten tr v l in c nt ich littl n rth st f nti r , y s n in ' k ow E a The b ook o u e e ek u is n n in ngl nd c ncl d s W s to r . W few a a e ar a e “ ith a pr ctic l hints r g ding tr v l in Th e c o ncluding chapter of the book a and the obe - o er who e to e a m Indi , gl tr tt int nds gives a gr t any use ful and practical the je we of the B r Crow o u e a abou u as ra wa a e Visit l itish n c ld d t ils t s ch things il y tr v lling , ’ M a n ot d o b e er a o ow i n r. D el r the o the be m e of M ea to o etc . tt th n f ll s c st , st ti y r g , , footsteps . which it wo uld be well for the inte nding o t u are u Visit r o st dy c f lly . Sp ace forbids us to we at rea e e on the m m Notting ham Daily Guardian d ll g t r l ngth any ite s of intere st containe d in this work suffice it D el Mar e be W mu m u e Mr . d scri s ith ch in t to s ay tha t it is writte n in a very clear an d e all e e i to be ee at e e y p a e of bu e e m a e an d at m e w e n ss th r s s n v r l c sin sslik nn r this ti , h n n e the wa m o a e he e , a d b the Of T R H the e an e i p rt nc Visit d giv s y y Visit . . . Princ d Princ ss f m a o for the e a go o d d eal o infor ti n int nding o f W ale s has attracted fresh a tte ntio n to a ou i I . our ea e e e W ro e m o t rist n ndi gr t d p nd ncy , it ill p v st His o e on m en and as he saw n t s things use ful to the tourists who ar e likely to follow hem are ome a e of pe a e e e r wake m a of w om a e o a t in s c s s s ci l int r st in th i , ny h h v nly or me at e o a and W be sh t ti th ir disp s l , ill a ou to see as m u as po b e a Aberdeen Free Pres s nxi s ch ssi l in th t tim e ‘ All come Within the range of the c om The num erous illustrations re produce d w ur and all are ub e of o m o o a are o The b ook rehens e o o . p t , s j cts fr ph t gr phs g d ere e r o em e e and o a a e om e e e w mu Int sting d sc ipti n , r inisc nc , c nt ins v ry c pl t ind x , hich ch ” e a e a ue as a wo k of efe e e rem ark. nh nc s its v l r r r nc .

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