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Discover regional in Tokyo From the courtly refinement of to the street smart vibes of and the tropical flavour of Okinawa, Japan is an amazingly diverse country, with 47 prefectures having their own unique customs, culture and cuisine. Oh Inside yes, the amazing regional cuisines, which keep travellers salivating on every step of a Japanese journey, from the seafood mecca of Hokkaido in the cold north to Fukuoka, the birthplace of the globally famed in the April – June 2019 southern Kyushu prefecture. We know it all too well, the struggle is real: there are too many places to visit, things to do, food to eat – and too little time to do it all. But the good news is that you can easily experience the best of regional Japan right here in Tokyo. Think of our city as a Japan taster, which will inspire you to go visit a different part of the country. START YOUR EXPLORATION ON PAGE 24 â Swing this way The best jazz bars and venues in Tokyo PAGE 60 â KEISUKE TANIGAWA KEISUKE goes dark The former fish market reinvents itself as a nightlife destination PAGE 62

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back to the HOGUREST PIPA100/DREAMSTIME Origin â FEATURES AND REGULARS 06 Tokyo Update 12 Courtesy Calls 14 Open Tokyo 18 To Do 24 Discover regional Japan in Tokyo 44 Eating & Drinking 48 Shopping & Style 50 Things to Do 54 Art & Culture 58 Music 62 Nightlife 64 LGBT 65 Film 66 Travel & Hotels 70 Getting Around 74 You know you’re in Tokyo when… SMARTPHONE LINK MULTI BAND 6 TOUGH SOLAR * Bluetooth® is a registered trademark or trademark of Bluetooth SIG, Inc.

Time Out Group CEO Cover Editor-in-Chief Mari Hiratsuka Editorial Assistant Kisa Toyoshima Misaki Shindo Art direction: Steve Nakamura Julio Bruno Lim Chee Wah Shiori Kotaki Emma Steen Administration Distribution Founder world.g-shock.com Contributing Editor Tabea Greuner Designers Momo Ando Satoshi Akiba Tony Elliott Marcus Webb Miroku Hina Yuki Masuko Creative Solutions Executive Vice President ORIGINAL Inc. Editor Jessica Thompson Chikako Mao Kawakami Akiko Toya Time Out Digital 5-9-9-101 Hiroo, , Tokyo, 150-0012 Kaila Imada Taryn Siegel Yuko Odanaka Takahiro Takeuchi President/Publisher 77 Wicklow Street, London, WC1X 9JY +81 (0)3 5792 5721 www.timeout.com/tokyo Staff Writers Shiho Yagi Staff Photographers Naoki Shimao Hiroyuki Fushitani Advertising and general enquiries: [email protected] www.timeout.com Kunihiro Miki Keisuke Tanigawa Aya Ito +44 (0)207 813 3000

5 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo Tokyo Update Tokyo COUNTDOWN TO TOKYO 2020 THE VIEW FROM YOU Update Patterns of Tokyo

@hooky1979

FIVE THINGS TOKYO 2020/UTA MUKUO Tokyoites NGAMNITHIPORN/DREAMSTIME NATTHAPON Paralympic Torch Relay 2 Even if you’re not a sports fan, it’s hard not to be moved by the sight of an Olympic flame bursting into life. With the motto ‘Share your light’, the Tokyo 2020 Paralympic Torch are talking Tokyo is the best city in Asia Relay (PTR) represents the Games’ determination to promote an inclusive society built upon hope and support for one another. While the Olympic torch relay is scheduled to @joeribreuk @josepbautistaphoto More than 33,000 city-dwellers participated in this year’s travel through all 47 prefectures in Japan, the route for PTR currently only covers the Time Out Index – and Tokyo was voted the best city in Asia. areas hosting the Games, namely Tokyo, Saitama, Chiba and . about Globally however, Tokyo comes in at No.10, trailing just That’s not the only difference. While the flame for the Olympics torch relay comes from behind other international cities such as New York, London, a single source (Olympia in Greece), there will be several fire-lighting festivals for the Melbourne and Paris. Tokyo ranks high for its food and Paralympic Games: one at Stoke Mandeville in the UK (the birthplace of the Paralympics in 1948) plus several others across Japan. The flames from these locations will come restaurant scene, drinking culture and convenience. See together in Tokyo to light up the torch and kick off the PTR. The Tokyo 2020 organisers timeout.com/tokyo for more insights into the city. are currently working on getting more prefectures to participate in the relay as well as holding different fire ceremonies. 3 4 Tokyo 2020 Olympic medals to be made from recycled electronic devices Since it was announced back in spring 2017 that the Olympic and Paralympic medals will be made with parts recycled from disused electronic devices, people across Japan have taken the opportunity to contribute to the Games’ preparations. Nearly 50,000 tons of devices have been donated, including laptops, cameras and game consoles, plus more than five million mobile phones. The target was to extract 30.3kg of gold, 4,100kg of @min0ribiy0ri @thewanderingcam silver and 2,700kg of bronze from the electronic waste. The bronze target was met in June 2018, while gold and silver still have 10 and 15 percent further to go respectively (as of crushed50 and ground crickets go into each Bugmo October 2018). nTabea Greuner Send us your best Instagram photos of the city with #TimeOutTokyo protein bar, which comes in one of two reassuringly conventional flavours: or . And it’s gluten-free to boot. The Japanese brand claims that crickets offer numerous health benefits and taste similar to kinako (roasted soybean flour) powder. Any takers? àbugmo.jp

1 5 Internationally acclaimed Yokohama has opened a Japanese contemporary artist MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART temporary poop museum, TOKYO REOPENS ON MARCH 29 Takashi Murakami has his own After an extensive three-year renovation, the illustrious featuring the famed unko vending machine in Nakano museum will reopen with two new exhibitions, one of (Japanese for ‘poop’) emoji which will showcase its recent acquisitions. Expect Broadway selling his signature to find the kind of groundbreaking, innovative and in all its cute, pastel- Kaikai and Kiki mini plush toys. unconventional works the museum is known for. coloured glory. àtinyurl.com/TOTmurakamiVM àmot-art-museum.jp/en àEnds Jul 15. tinyurl.com/TOTyokohamapm

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 6 7 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo Tokyo Update Tokyo Update

ONE DAY IN… EAT MOST GOOGLED CHASING BLOSSOMS

KUSHIWAKAMARU Why is fruit so expensive in Japan? This lively joint is always packed in the evenings, and if the convivial atmosphere doesn’t tempt you in, the smoky aroma of grilled chicken probably will. If you lack a penchant for poultry, they also serve alluring options like chargrilled -wrapped (coined ‘mochi-be’ for short) and Hokkaido potatoes, which are grilled over charcoal before being slathered with a generous slab of . Bonus points for the English menu – indulging in a yakitori feast has never been easier. à1-19-2 Kamimeguro, (Nakameguro Station). 03 3715 9292. 5pm-12am daily. A top cherry blossom viewing spot thanks to the CANTEEN sakura-lined Meguro River, This light, airy eatery boasts a selection of unique this trendy neighbourhood international dishes with a Japanese twist. For starters, COWARDLION/DREAMSTIME rewards exploration at any you can enjoy a zesty, refreshing dish of avocado in a citrus APR 1-6, dressing, or seasonal strawberries tossed with anise and The 16th-century Kanazawa Castle is a popular choice for sakura-spotters, as time of year. Venture away fennel seed. Then, dig into topped with shirasu is the prestigious Kenrokuen Garden, which boasts over 420 cherry trees in 20 from the riverside, follow (whitebait) or more conventional local dishes such as . varieties. The banks of the Asano River at Kazue-machi Chaya teahouse district the train tracks, and you’ll The wine list is also noteworthy, offering a well-curated are also lined with cherry trees. selection of natural vino from around the globe. find hidden art galleries, à2F, 1-16-15 , Meguro (Nakameguro Station). 03 3770 APR 7-12, independent shops 6014. fb.com/canteen111. 6pm-12am (last orders 11pm), Sat & Sun The park surrounding Takada Castle features over 4,000 cherry trees, lit up by

and cute cafés. 12pm-3pm (2.30pm), 6pm-12am (11pm), irregular hols. TANIGAWA KEISUKE almost as many paper lanterns. At Okozu Bunsui, around 3,000 Yoshino cherry By Kaila Imada trees grow along the banks of the Shinano River. SIDEWALK STAND BAISEN & BAGEL APR 8-13, Nakameguro has two Sidewalk Stands: there’s one by Takato Castle Ruins Park has around 1,500 trees; it’s a unique variety, with the river, but we much prefer the one tucked away down blossoms that feature brighter pink petals. You’ll find another 500 or so cherry a backstreet, set in a vine-covered house. This location trees at the garden of Edo-era castle Komoro Kaikoen. stands out for its wide selection of bagels, with classic

flavours such as poppyseed and , complemented MOSAYMAY/DREAMSTIME APR 17-22, by tasty spreads including homemade lox and cream Visit the well-preserved samurai village of Kakunodate, famous for its weeping cheese. And good news for coffee drinkers: Sidewalk ANY VISITOR TO TOKYO has for resale. The landmass of cherry trees. Alternatively, the Hinokinai riverbank, a designated National Place Stand roasts its own beans onsite. Take it to go, or enjoy likely ogled over a ¥20,000 musk Japan is also almost 80 percent of Scenic Beauty, features a 2km stretch of sakura. the spacious seating on the second floor. melon that costs more than a mountains, which doesn’t leave à1-15-9 Aobadai, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). 03 6277 5714. Michelin-starred meal, posted a lot of room for fruit crops. Many APR 23-27, sidewalk.jp. 11am-7pm daily. Instagram shots of gold-lined fruit farms in Japan are family- Park’s 2,600 cherry trees are made up of over 50 different varieties; boxes of ¥3,000-a-pop peaches, run or small-scale businesses, for there’s even a tunnel formed by the trees you can walk through. If you’re feeling and tried to personally justify whom fruit cultivation remains a adventurous, head northwest to Ashino Park, which is part of the vast Ashino paying ¥5,000 for a bunch of shine labour-intensive process, and one Chishogun Prefectural Natural Park. muscat grapes. Shopping for fruit that is undertaken with a typically DO in Japan is more like shopping for Japanese sense of tenacity and APR 30 - MAY 4, SAPPORO jewellery. pride. Hokkaido Shrine and its adjacent Maruyama Park are among Sapporo’s top SATO SAKURA MUSEUM TOKYO But why is it so? It’s a For an example of the lengths destinations for hanami (cherry blossom viewing) parties. Alternatively head This art museum showcases contemporary Japanese combination of factors. For fruit farmers will go to, take the to nearby Nakajima Park, where you can find a diverse range of cherry trees, paintings, with an emphasis on artists who were born in starters, fruit play a very different famous crown musk melons of including the weeping cherry and the double-flowering cherry.n Jessica the Showa era (1926-1989) and onwards. Located a few role in Japan. In many parts of Shizuoka: they are grown just one Thompson minutes’ walk from the Meguro River, this venue offers some the world, fruit is eaten as an melon per vine in uniform rows in consolation to those who visit Nakameguro outside cherry everyday snack, but in Japan, climate-controlled greenhouses; These forecast dates are correct at time of print and may change depending blossom season – a ‘100 Views of Sakura’ exhibition featuring it is regarded as a precious gift donned little plastic hats to avoid on weather conditions. famous sakura spots from across Japan. given to someone you want to sun damage; and given gentle rubs à1-7-13 Kamimeguro, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). 03 3496 1771. impress, show your gratitude to, by the farmers in cotton gloves to satosakura.jp. 10am-6pm (last entry 5.30pm), closed Mon. or wish well. It’s also common stimulate sweetness. to be served a few slices of fruit Cheap(ish) fruit is available in at the end of a high-end Tokyo. And definitely look for SHOP meal. This regal status means them when visiting Japan’s rural DRINK the fruit must be a premium regions, where they don’t bear the product worthy of gifting. In other logistical costs of transportation MISC OHKA THE BESTDAYS words, they should be perfect and to the city. Go for local varieties This fashion boutique-meets-juice bar is one of Nakameguro’s Offering a decent selection of craft beer and some not-so- blemish-free: elegantly round and and when they’re in season: hidden gems, offering some of the latest sartorial trends for traditional gyoza, this quirky, playful eatery is a reliable casual rosy peaches; gleaming scarlet figs, nashi (Asian pear), grapes ladies along with a healthy selection of fruit juices, smoothies, hangout. Its handmade dumpling menu includes unusual strawberries; plump, juicy grapes; and persimmons in autumn; coffees and teas. Expect a mix of international and domestic options like gyoza topped with cilantro salsa, a strange- perfectly spherical and fragrant mandarins and apples in winter; labels like Citizens of Humanity and Pretty Ballerinas for sounding combo which works brilliantly. Pair your gyoza with melons... strawberries and native citrus like denim and shoes respectively, as well as its own house line of a local craft beer or one of the many brews from Gigantic Aside from this luxury status, amanatsu in spring; peaches and fashion basics – T-shirts, tank tops, well-cut pants and skirts. Brewing Company of Portland, and you’re good to go for an there are regulations on size, anzu (native apricots) in summer. Lust-worthy home accents are also available; browse through extended evening in Nakameguro. colour and taste set by JA (Japan Also, shop at farmers’ markets to luxurious candles, glass coasters and cool coffee drippers. à2-4-8 Higashiyama, Meguro (Nakameguro, Ikejiri-Ohashi stations). 03 Agricultural Cooperative), the buy fruit directly from growers, à#104, 1-8-6 Higashiyama, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). 03 6705 57 08 5873. ohka.tokyo. 6.30pm-12am (or until gyoza runs out), closed national regulatory body, when who can sell their less ‘perfect’ 8424. misctokyo.com. 11am-7pm, closed Sun. Sun & hols. buying produce from farmers fruit. nJessica Thompson

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 8 9 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo I, GLOBAL Promotional feature it available, people will come up and buy it. In the US it’s the opposite: people pay for the performance, but I, TOKYO won’t buy CDs. Domo Japan at your NHK’s mascot introduces You recently completed an ‘earpick Tokyo to the world ’, for which you used a 3D router to carve wood? fi ngertips Sami Elu That’s right. I used a computer program to draw a 3D model, sent it to a workshop, and used a router bit (the rotating part of a drill) to Composer, musician, carve the wood, instead of sticking NHK World-Japan’s Travel section (www.nhk.or.jp/nhkworld/en/travel) features a instrument inventor pieces of wood together by hand. vast selection of travel clips; these short but informative videos are sure to inspire Hot Air Balloons Over You get a higher level of durability you to start planning your journey across Japan. Watch as foreign residents in the Hokkaido Age: 37 that way, and it sounds better too. country take you through some of Japan’s most fascinating attractions. There are I use earpicks as hammers that also clips from popular NHK World-Japan programmes such as ‘J-Trip Plan’, ‘Tokyo hit the chords. Chopsticks and Eye 2020’ and ‘Journeys in Japan’. earpicks are available everywhere, Start binge-watching now. You can search the videos by interest, with topics so they’re easy to replace when such as sightseeing, art and shopping, as well as by season or destination. It’s the LOCAL they break. perfect resource to help you draw up the trip of your dreams. INSIGHT NHK World offers a wide range of multilingual programmes. Do you Iki, A Center have a favourite show? For Culture And I like the nature in Japan, so International Lively Drumming Of The Activity Tasty Blessings Of The ‘Journeys in Japan’ is a favourite. Tsuzureko Odaiko Festival Mountain At A Local Lodging Life and culture in Japan’s countryside is really interesting, and this show is great because it allows you to learn more about those things.

What do you plan on doing next? I have a mellow, new age-y project with an American shakuhachi flute artist, which I’m looking forward to a lot. I also started a session event Real Ninjas In Tokyo! at BPM, a café in Ikejiri-Ohashi. Its aims are interaction with tourists and community building – you can sign up via Airbnb.

àCheck out samielu.com for more information

Bubble Cruising How did you come to be based I wanted to make myself. And while I wanted to play something I can In Ago Bay in Tokyo? studying music at college, I was touch. I also like improvising, so One of my friends who is also a often told how hard it is nowadays to that played into it too. Although I see musician asked me to come, so I be a composer who directs an entire myself as a composer, I also want to moved to Tokyo from New York in orchestra. I thought I needed either remain a performer. Remote Village Of Ainokura 2016. I had never been to Japan a little ensemble or something I In The Gokayama Region Of DOWNLOAD THE APP! before, and didn’t know how long could do on my own. At that point Why did you start playing on the Prefecture A Tour Of The Local You can enjoy travel programmes and much I would be staying or what to do in I had never made music I had street? Culture At more on the NHK World-Japan TV app, both terms of work. I hardly spoke any complete control over, so I really I just liked playing in the park. There wanted to try it. are kids around, and all kinds of Centrair Airport live and on demand. Download by scanning Japanese at the time either. The the QR code below. band I was in with that friend broke Going from there to the chopstick people come up and talk to you. I up, so I started mainly playing the piano was a long journey. I had tried played the accordion on the street Mud Sports With chopstick piano on my own. using a synthesizer to get the kind of before building the chopstick piano, The Locals Of sound I was looking for, but it wasn’t but eventually people lost interest. The chopstick piano you created right. That’s when I came up with Because it’s all improvised, maybe is unique in that it incorporates the idea of creating an instrument it kind of turns into background accompaniment, melody and with a metallic sound. After finding music. With the chopstick piano, App Store Google Play rhythm into a single piece of a small vintage harpsichord online, everyone really pays attention when equipment and only requires one I thought its structure wasn’t so I play. person to play it. What inspired you complicated and that I might be able to build it? to build something similar, so I did. Japanese people aren’t really used The idea was something I came to paying street performers, so I up with when thinking about what Many musicians these days create suppose you aren’t making much I could do on my own without a the tracks they perform on a money? band. The music we were making computer, but you don’t? Right, that’s why you need products à Visit nhk.jp/world to fi nd out how you can get NHK WORLD-JAPAN 24/7 in your country, on your TV, computer or mobile device. as a band wasn’t the kind of music I chose a live instrument because in Japan. If you make a CD and have GO GREEN Promotional feature Beyond konnichiwa Where to experience Courtesy culture in Tokyo Greeting people in Japan is so much more than just saying ‘hello’ and can be fraught with When it comes to Japanese green tea, one product stands out: the bright green-coloured bottle of ready- Calls complications. Xiaochen Su to-drink Oi Ocha by Itoen, Japan’s largest company for introduces us to the different ryokucha (green tea). greetings used in a variety At the end of the 20th century, Itoen became the first company in Japan and the world to start offering of potentially awkward social its signature green tea in convenient cans and bottles, situations making it possible to have a sip of the nation’s favourite drink anytime, anywhere. By doing so, Itoen has successfully evolved with the times, making itself relevant to the modern lifestyles of today’s society. With its refreshing flavour and health benefits, Oi Ocha is now sold in 36 countries worldwide – and this year, this flagship product from Itoen is celebrating its 30th anniversary. Get a bottle now at one of the many convenience stores, supermarkets and vending machines across Tokyo. If you want to experience more of Japan’s green tea culture, head over to these two Itoen specialty shops. OKADAMISO

UNWRITTEN SOCIAL RULES your head a little more. The ohayo is more appropriate than DON’T: INSULT SENIOR FIGURES WITH Saryo Itoen Wa no Cha Itoen abound in Japan. Whether you’re full-on 90-degree option would konnichiwa . In the evening, you CARELESS GREETINGS in a casual or business setting, look bizarre around friends but should use konbanwa (‘good Japan is a very hierarchical This matcha café is located at (traditional Japanese tea- If you’re looking to purchase a proper greeting is essential will go down a treat on serious evening’). Konnichiwa should be society. Both in people’s Haneda Airport’s International time sweets; ¥800), or the matcha single-origin loose-leaf green tea, if you want to avoid a bad first occasions, such as meeting an used in the afternoon, any time private lives and their jobs, Terminal, within the area designed soft-serve (¥540). Easily the most head over to Wa no Cha Itoen in impression. important business client for before sunset. acknowledging and deferring to after an Edo-period (1603-1868) popular item on the menu, the ice Nihonbashi. Here you’ll find some of the first time. For entering job In more formal environments, older, more experienced people is townscape. Its adjoining seating cream features a slightly bitter yet the finest and rarest pure green tea DON’T: FORGET TO BOW WHEN interviews, regular business merely acknowledging the considered vital for social groups area has a charming traditional mellow sweet taste. All of Saryo sourced directly from plantations all GREETING meetings and formal social time of the day is not going to to function properly. The Japanese atmosphere, complete with red Itoen’s matcha and drinks over Japan. Just as a firm handshake is a engagements like networking impress anyone. The greeting linguistic tool for doing so, known parasols and Japanese-style floor are made from premium matcha Common ryokucha is usually a After you’ve shortlisted a few of precursor to many conversations events, a tidy 45-degree bow will should instead convey the as ‘honorific language’ or keigo, lamps. powder, which is often reserved for blend of different types of green your favourite teas, Wa no Cha’s in Western countries, bowing suffice. A quick bow, about the social relationship and the will help you set the right note. At Saryo Itoen you can enjoy a tea ceremonies. tea, but this shop lets you choose knowledgeable staff will brew them is a normal part of a Japanese length of a quick head nod, is just expectations of the upcoming As a morning greeting to your diverse selection of drinks and Keep an eye out for the seasonal from more than 50 varieties of for you to sample – for free – so greeting, even among friends. the ticket. There’s no need to get conversation. First time classmates, ohayo is perfectly desserts made from high-quality specials as well, such as sakura single-origin loose-leaf green tea. you can decide which suits your It’s a symbol of deference which carried away… meetings should be preceded fine, but it needs to be upgraded green tea sourced from Itoen. You soft-serve in spring, refreshing By touching, smelling and looking preference the most. Despite the signifies trust and respect. with a round of hajimemashite, into the more formal ohayo can’t go wrong with a matcha parfait kakigori (shaved ice with syrup) in at the sample leaves, you’ll see green tea’s signature gentle aroma Here’s how to do it, or at least DO: KNOW THE RIGHT GREETING FOR an expression of gratefulness gozaimasu when greeting topped with red beans and mochi summer, or (red bean that they are all slightly different in and taste, you’ll be surprised how to not overdo it: when you see EACH SITUATION to have met. If you’re expecting professors or superiors in the (¥650), a bowl of matcha with with mochi) in winter. shape and colour. noticeably different they each are. your friend approaching, turn to Konnichiwa is commonly used as to be working together in the corporate hierarchy. Terms with face them and bend your waist a catch-all greeting by beginners, future, you should add the term no corresponding honorifics, like slightly forward. Briefly make but if you want to graduate to yoroshiku onegaishimasu (‘it konnichiwa or konbanwa, are àInternational Airport Edo Koji 4F, 2-6 Haneda Airport, Ota à Mitsukoshi Nihonbashi Main Bldg B1F, 1-4-1 Nihonbashi Muromachi, Chuo eye contact as you bow and greet true Tokyoite you’re going to is nice to work with you from best avoided in formal settings. (Haneda Airport International Terminal Station). (Mitsukoshimae Station). them verbally. Your pal, seeing have to learn the proper usage of now on’). For those who already Instead, use otsukaresamadesu, a 03 6428 0055. tinyurl.com/saryoitoen. Open 24 hours daily . 03 3274 8859. tinyurl.com/wanocha. 10am-7.30pm daily. you bow, should stop and do the different greetings in a variety of have a business relationship, formal greeting that can be used same. The conversation formally settings. otsukaresamadesu (roughly anytime of the day. Even a deep starts thereafter. The easiest way to distinguish ‘thank you for your hard work’) bow without saying anything is Scan this QR-code for videos on how to prepare and enjoy matcha In more formal situations, between different greetings is to helps to acknowledge the mutual more respectful for senior figures àwww.itoen-global.com/contents/matcha you’re going to have to lower look at the clock. In the morning, burden of another day on the job. than a casual konnichiwa.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 12 OPEN TOKYO Promotional feature

‘I HOPE TO USE YOUTUBE to Art connect with all sorts of people, LOCAL disabled and non-disabled alike,’ says 28-year-old Yusuke Terada, also known as the ‘wheelchair reimagined YouTuber’. LEGENDS Born with cerebral palsy, teamLab Borderless redefines Terada has had difficulty walking for as long as he can remember. digital art as an immersive, While he attended a regular interactive experience school with non-disabled kids and insisted on living just like anyone else in his teens, the sprightly Nagoya native saw wheelchair. Hoping to cultivate his world change at 20, when a spirit of helping those around he started using a wheelchair you in others, he decided to travel on a daily basis. He could now only by having other people move around more freely, which push his chair. Terada’s journey helped turn his outlook on life in started in April 2017, and as of a positive direction. December 2018 he had visited 31 Universe of Water Particles on a Comedy entered the equation prefectures with the help of 405 when Terada was in college. A different pushers. Rock where People Gather close friend helped him see the But even as he successfully Every inch of this massive space is swathed in art that’s growing and evolving. Over the funny side of being disabled, and traversed Japan, something kept course of an hour, the room transitions through a year’s worth of seasonal flowers, which an episode of ‘Mr Bean’ featuring bothering him: ‘I said I wanted to means that you can enter the room with winter blossoms and leave with the buds of visually impaired characters travel around Japan to get people spring blooming. inspired him while studying to help each other, but deep down In the centre of the room, simulated water flows in from a separate exhibit overhead, in the UK. These experiences those words weren’t sincere. To cascading down to form a waterfall. You are encouraged to touch the falling water on motivated Terada to enter a be honest, what I wanted was to the wall, which will change the direction of its flow. Meanwhile, butterflies and other comedy school in Osaka after become famous.’ That’s when he projections are fluttering in from other exhibits in response to the visitors in those rooms. graduating, but he decided to met Mayumi, his most important This means that the scene existing in the room at any given moment is entirely unique; it When Mori Building Digital Art Museum: quit stand-up after three years of supporter, and now also his wife. can never be replicated and will never recur. little attention. Going out with Mayumi and teamLab Borderless opened in 2018, it was Unsure what to do next, he getting married late in 2017 an explosion on the Tokyo art scene. Within met with Hirotada Ototake, a was life-changing for Terada. the first five months of opening, the 10,000- renowned author and media ‘Because of my disability, I had sq-m complex housing over 60 artworks personality who also uses a never expected to get married. wheelchair. Ototake, a role model Until now, all I had been doing welcomed one million visitors, some of for Terada, suggested that he was motivated by the desire to whom had travelled to Tokyo from overseas become a ‘wheelchair host’ – a become famous and popular, but purely to visit this digital art museum. sure stand-out among those getting married made me rethink But teamLab’s museum has not only pretty boys paid handsomely to my priorities,’ he says. Terada revolutionised digital art – it has redefined entertain women in and thought about what he truly other entertainment districts was capable of, and after talking the art and spectator relationship while throughout Japan. Ready to things through with Mayumi, dissolving the boundary between the two. Crows are Chased and the Chasing Crows are En Tea House try anything, Terada promptly decided to take his talents to The artworks at Borderless are not timed Destined to be Chased as well, Transcending Space signed up at Kabukicho host club YouTube. This exhibit is perfect for a delicious rest video projections; they are creations Of all the exhibits, this one is probably the Smappa! Group APiTS. ‘By showing myself working stop. You can choose from four kinds of that react and evolve in response to their most viscerally powerful. The exhibit is set After two years of host life and hard and trying all sorts of stupid tea, all ¥500 each, with refills available up within a cave-like space, with the dark, a growing sense that there was stuff, I hope to inspire both viewers. Moreover, they’re not confined to for ¥200. sloping ceiling blending seamlessly into something out there he could people with disabilities and a given space or room, but rather stretch The tea house is bathed in shadows. the walls and floor at the back. Small glass bowls are set down in front be even better at, Terada said everyone else who is struggling to and roam throughout the space. If you want When the scene begins, you can see goodbye to Kabukicho and set achieve their goals.’ of you, with the tea of your choice poured to understand what it means to enter a a few crows perched contentedly, and out to travel around Japan in his Launched last summer, the in after. At first, the space is so dark you ‘borderless’ art world, here are some of the peaceful music comes in. But suddenly the ‘Terada Family TV’ channel can hardly see anything. But suddenly, a music crescendos and the crows burst and he runs on YouTube together best artworks to catch. simulated flower blooms in the centre of soar through the space, leaving a trail of with Mayumi features clips the tea cup, illuminating its content. The light in their wake. ‘Getting married documenting their journey flower projections burst and shed their The flying crows try to traverse the cave around Japan, scenes from their petals, spilling out of the cup onto the made me rethink space, but when they crash into a viewer #22: life in Tokyo and much more, table. they scatter and turn into flowers. The art is all presented from his unique If you move your tea cup, the flowers my priorities’ constantly changing in real time in reaction perspective. disappear, only to reform wherever you ‘Wheelchair YouTuber’ to its viewers; once again, a scene created Never one to rest on his laurels, put down your tea – and this mesmerising in one moment will never repeat itself. Terada is looking to make 2019 display continues until the very last sip. his most successful year yet. ‘I’d Yusuke Terada like to do a collab with Hikakin (Japan’s top YouTuber), get him How to get tickets MORI Building DIGITAL ART MUSEUM: teamLab Borderless On chasing stardom and not letting his disability to push my wheelchair,’ he says. - Buy them online through the offi cial website (ticket.teamlab.art), or at Lawson or 7-Eleven. Palette Town, 1-3-8 , Koto, Tokyo (Tokyo Teleport, Aomi stations). - Tickets are sold for a specifi c day, but not for a specifi c time slot. Tel: 03 6368 4292 (10am–6pm) define his dreams. By Shiho Yagi - Tickets for the following month go on sale in the middle of the current month. Website: borderless.teamlab.art à Watch Yusuke Terada’s videos at - Same-day tickets can be purchased at the door, unless they are all sold out in advance. Weekdays 10am-7pm, Sun, Sat & hols 10am-9pm tinyurl.com/YusukeTerada. - Please check the offi cial website for other terms and conditions. Closed on 2nd and 4th Tue of the month KISA TOYOSHIMA

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 14 Promotional feature EPICUREAN INNOVATIONS Indulge in seasonal Japanese tea-infused cocktails Head over to The Oak Door Bar from April 1 to June 30 and sip on the latest Japanese tea-inspired cocktails. This inventive use of tea will raise a selection of classic In its support of local farmers cocktails to new heights, giving these drinks a refreshing in and around Tokyo, Grand seasonal update. Spring also happens to be the time for shincha, or new tea, when fresh leaves are harvested, Hyatt Tokyo continues to making these cocktails a great kick-off to the season. A twist on a classic drink, the refreshing Hojicha Whisky serve up an abundance of Sour features Chivas Regal Mizunara whisky which has mouthwatering options at been infused with roasted green tea leaves by heating the whisky and tea together at a very low temperature. It its bars and restaurants is then mixed with lemon juice and syrup, and topped with using some of the most egg white foam, edible flowers and hojicha tea, making it the perfect drink to start the spring season. premium and sustainable For a more fruity option, go for the Peach Tree, a flavourful combination of tea leaves that ingredients available have been steeped in peach liqueur for approximately 40 minutes before being strained and shaken with Belvedere vodka, Saint-Germain elderflower liqueur and tangy lime juice. The Matcha Russian, on the other hand, is an unusual take on the classic White Russian, made with matcha green tea instead of coffee liqueur. This unique concoction fuses quality Uji matcha powder with Ron Zacapa rum, Frangelico and àThe Oak Door Bar 6F Grand Hyatt Tokyo, 6-10-3 , Minato Amaretto liqueur before adding a dollop of rich, homemade Chantilly cream. (). 03 4333 8784. 11.30am-12.30am (last orders for food 10.30pm). western Tokyo is the perfect environment for raising livestock. As the farm is located within Tokyo, the short transportation time means the freshest product possible for diners. The cattle are fed a handmade mix of superfoods including quinoa, seaweed, cacao and – all of which are ingredients used at Keyakizaka – ultimately resulting in the perfect fat to lean ratio that’s rare in Wagyu beef. This feed not only ensures the ideal marbling but allows the true flavour of the meat to shine through without being overpowered by too much fat. These particular cows are also kept in a clean, stress-free environment, resulting in a superior meat. A result of Treat yourself to the superfood-fed this well-maintained environment has enabled the farm to produce A4- or A5-ranking beef, the highest quality Japanese Wagyu beef according Keyakizaka beef to the country's grading system. Grand Hyatt Tokyo’s restaurant Keyakizaka is in a league of Eager diners can dig into this special beef at Keyakizaka in Grand its own, mostly because it offers an exclusive beef that’s named after the Hyatt Tokyo, where both course menus and à la carte options are restaurant and developed in collaboration between its chef de cuisine available. Keyakizaka is the only place to enjoy this special culinary Yoshinobu Honda and Takeuchi Farm in Akiruno. This one-of-a-kind beef is the experience where Chef Honda’s passion for sustainable dining and Savour Maduro’s one-of-a-kind whisky in vision of Chef Honda, who’s dedicated to offering a premium and memorable local ingredients really stands out, making for an unforgettable and experience for the restaurant’s discerning diners. uniquely Japanese meal. collaboration with Ichiro’s Malt

After years of searching for the perfect farm and cattle, Chef Honda came Grand Hyatt Tokyo welcomes its very own original blend of whisky in collaboration with àKeyakizaka 4F Grand Hyatt Tokyo, 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi across Takeuchi Farm, where high-quality Akikawa cattle are raised in an area renowned whisky brand Ichiro’s Malt. The blend combines 10- and 20-year-old vintage Station). 03 4333 8782. 11.30am-2.30pm (Sat, Sun & hols until 3pm), rich in green pastures and fresh spring water. A lush environment such as whiskies from five different countries (Canada, Ireland, Scotland, the US and Japan) 6pm-9.30pm. this can be hard to come by in the metropolis, yet this little slice of greenery in in a French oak cask wine barrel and leaves it to mature at a local distillery in Chichibu, Saitama. With its abundance of greenery and nature, Chichibu is the ideal place for a distillery, and it also happens to be close to Tokyo. The unique blend of both malt and grain whiskies offers a plum-like fruitiness with hints of cinnamon followed by a gentle aroma of . With its complex character and aroma, the best way to appreciate this tipple is by sipping it straight but it can also be SUPPORTING LOCAL AGRICULTURE enjoyed with soda or on the rocks, preferably with a large, circular ice cube. Whisky aficionados can now get their hands on this limited-edition spirit at Maduro jazz lounge in Grand Hyatt Tokyo. Hurry though, as it’s limited to 300 bottles, priced In Japan, spring is the season for planting Offering superior quality and taste, this at ¥63,000 each. It’s something every connoisseur should consider adding to their rice, a culinary staple in the local diet brand of rice is grown with organic fertiliser, collection. that is versatile as an ingredient in a wide healthy soil and clean water from nearby range of dishes or simply eaten alone to mountains. Enjoy this special grain served àMaduro 4F Grand Hyatt Tokyo, 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi Station). 03 4333 appreciate its texture and fl avours. Grand in a traditional Japanese kama (iron pot) 8783. 7pm-1am, Fri-Sat 7pm-2am. Hyatt Tokyo has been harvesting its very whenever you dine at Shunbou in Grand own Shunbou-mai rice while working Hyatt Tokyo, and look forward to trying other closely with the farmers at Kurosawa Farm original items like Shunbou and sake, in Yamagata prefecture. which are also available on the menu. àGrand Hyatt Tokyo 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi Station). 03 4333 1234. tokyo.grand.hyatt.co.jp. TO DO

THINGS TO DO VEGAN GOURMET FESTIVAL Vegetarians and vegans should mark April 21 in their calendars, when a strong line-up of the best vegan chefs and restaurants DO take over the large Kiba Park in east Tokyo. Each food stall will list the ingredients used (in TIMEOUT.COM/TOKYO Japanese), so you can be certain TO that no animal was harmed in the process. What’s in town from April to June 2019 àApr 21. Kiba Park, 4-6 Hirano, Koto. tinyurl.com/ DON’T TOTveganfes. FREE entry. MISS is – as its name suggests – a week-long celebration of the

flourishing local scene. The TOKYO RAINBOW PRIDE event kicks off at the ‘Village’ – a country, with Nihonbashi area your face painted, slap on a THINGS TO DO market at the United Nations as their starting point. Known temporary tattoo and just enjoy University courtyard where as the ‘Five Routes’, they were the revelry. Fuji Shibazakura you can sample expertly mixed officially used for travelling and àApr 27-May 6. Park, 2-1 Yoyogi drinks at nine booths. After that, moving goods. Post stations Kamizonocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ the bar-hopping begins, with were built along these routes TOTtokyorainbow. FREE entry. Festival 63 participating venues across to provide a resting place for With great views of Mt Fuji amid the city. To join in, you’ll need travellers and those on official THINGS TO DO to buy a passport, which comes business, such as the shogun and endless fields of shibazakura CRAFT SAKE WEEK AT with a ¥1,000 cocktail coupon. other nobilities. This exhibition MAY (pink moss), it’s no wonder this ROPPONGI HILLS The more bars you hit, the more offers an imaginative take on the annual spring festival out at Lake Sake lovers and newcomers alike prizes you might win – and the changing landscapes of Edo, as THINGS TO DO can discover a whole new world more tipsy you will definitely get. you follow the journeys of the KURAYAMI MATSURI Motosu in Yamanashi attracts of Japan’s national alcoholic àApr 20-29, United Nations University courtyard shoguns and princesses of The ancient Okunitama Shrine hordes of Tokyoites over Golden drink at Roppongi Hills’ Craft 5-53-70 Jingumae, Shibuya. cocktailbar.jp/ the period. in Fuchu is said to have been Week every year. In addition to Sake Week. Each day is set to en/7days. Adv ¥3,800, at the door ¥4,500. àApr 27-Jun 16. Edo-Tokyo Museum, 1-4-1 founded in the year 111, and showcase a selected variety of Yokoami, Sumida. edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp. the annual Kurayami Matsuri strolling around the immense sake from the 100 participating ¥1,000, university students ¥800, high school is its most notable event. flowery growth, you can buy your craft sake breweries. Foodies students and younger children ¥500. Translating as ‘darkness own shibazakura pot to take home are in luck too, with a number festival’, the festivities last or sample a range of in-season of restaurants serving up their THINGS TO DO throughout Golden Week, with best dishes during the week-long TOKYO RAINBOW PRIDE float parades, performances local delicacies. festivities. Tokyo Rainbow Week is back and plenty of family-friendly àApr 13-May 26. Fuji Motosuko Resort, 212 Motosu, Fuji Kawaguchiko- àApr 19-29. Roppongi Hills Arena, 6-9-1 to celebrate LGBT pride with a fun. The highlight comes on the machi, Minamitsuru-gun, Yamanashi. tinyurl.com/TOTfujiShibazakura. Roppongi, Minato. tinyurl.com/TOTsakeweek. massive family-friendly festival evening of May 5, when eight ¥600, primary school students and children aged 3 and older ¥250. From ¥3,500. (Apr 28-29) in Yoyogi Park that mikoshi (portable shrines) are THINGS TO DO culminates in a joyous parade carried through the grounds to THINGS TO DO TRAVELLING ON THE EDO HIGHWAY: (Apr 28) through . In the beat of huge drums. TOKYO COCKTAIL 7 DAYS A JOURNEY OF SHOGUN AND the past few years the event You can also see a spectacular Tokyo has one of the best cocktail PRINCESSES has blossomed from a modest yabusame (horseback archery) 100 varieties in total, including Once you tire of the novelty of scenes on earth, with champion After his victory in Sekigahara gathering to an epic party with demonstration from 10.30pm on APRIL rare breeds such as the black seeing items shaped like male bartenders and watering holes (1600), Ieyasu Tokugawa began turnout in the tens of thousands. the same day. karafune flower. Expect it to get sex organs, you can engage in that rank in the World’s Top developing roads that connected Come show your pride and àApr 30-May 6. Okunitama Shrine, 3-1 Miyamachi, crowded during Golden Week, the festival’s more solemn side – 50 Bars. Tokyo Cocktail 7 Days Edo (former Tokyo) to the entire celebrate love; dress up, get Fuchu. tinyurl.com/TOTkurayami. FREE entry. when there’ll be performances many people pray at Kawasaki’s as well as stalls selling antiques, Wakamiya Hachimangu, which food and bric-a-brac. is believed to bring visitors àApr 6-May 6. Nezu Shrine, 1-28-9 Nezu, Bunkyo. harmony and good fortune in tinyurl.com/TOTazalea. ¥200, FREE for primary their marriages. school students and younger children. àApr 7. Wakamiya Hachimangu, 2-13-16 Daishiekimae, Kawasaki, Kawasaki, Kanagawa. THINGS TO DO tinyurl.com/TOTkanamara. FREE entry. KANAMARA MATSURI THINGS TO DO This annual event, known THINGS TO DO BUNKYO AZALEA FESTIVAL globally as Japan’s penis festival, TOKYO COFFEE FESTIVAL for ¥1,500, which comes with an With its pathway lined with celebrates fertility in a less-than- Head to Aoyama’s UNU original mug, and you’ll get to try dozens of red torii gates, Nezu subtle way – with giant phalluses farmers’ market in mid-April small amounts of the different Shrine is at its most picturesque carried through the streets and surround yourself with types of coffee on show. Also, in spring, when its remarkable during the mikoshi parade. You pleasant coffee aromas at this check out the stalls selling an crop of azaleas burst into can also enjoy (in)appropriately annual java fest. Up to 60 stalls, eclectic range of coffee-themed bloom. During the month-long shaped candies, vegetables and roasters, baristas and coffee shop accessories. Bunkyo Tsutsuji Matsuri, flower decorations, all while helping operators from all over Japan and àApr 13-14. United Nations University Bldg, enthusiasts can gaze at some to raise money for HIV/AIDS further afield will show off their 5-53-70 Jingumae, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ SHIBAZAKURA: GENKI/PIXTA 3,000 azalea plants – roughly prevention and treatment. skills. Pick up a sampler ticket TOTcoffeefes. FREE entry. 'KISOKAIDO ROAD SERIES NO. 1 — DAWN WITH SNOW NIHONBASHI AT 1835. WOODBLOCK PRINT, BRIDGE'. POLYCHROME MAGOHACHI. PAINTING: TAKEUCHI PRINT: KEISAI EISEN,

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 18 19 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo TO DO TO DO

garden to add some buzz to your costumes and effects – including phone applications, not to feasting. It’s a foodie’s fantasy, giant ‘snakes’ – and brings to life mention mini-rides and toy and with last year’s edition legends from Japan’s two oldest demonstrations. Prepare to SUMMER MUSIC packed every day from morning mythological tomes: the Kojiki unleash your inner child. till night, we expect this year to and the Nihon-Shoki chronicles. àJun 15-16. Tokyo Big Sight, 3-11-1 Ariake, Koto. FESTIVALS be another grand belly-filling à Jun 1. Theater 1010. 3-92 Senju, Adachi. toys.or.jp/toyshow. FREE entry. These are the hottest tickets in Tokyo and affair. love-iwamikagura.com. Adv B-seats ¥3,500, adv Japan, so book early àMay 16-Jun 3. Showa Kinen Park, 3173 A-seats ¥4,500, adv S-seats ¥5,000, additional FILM Midorimachi, Tachikawa. tinyurl.com/ ¥500 if purchased at the door. SHORT SHORTS FILM FESTIVAL TOTmanpaku2019. FREE entry. One of the biggest international short film festivals in Asia returns to Tokyo in June, taking place at Omotesando Hills Space JUNE O, Laforet Museum Harajuku and Roppongi Hills Mori Tower THEATRE throughout the month. More MUSIC IWAMI KAGURA PERFORMANCE than 9,000 films from over 140 ZIPANG 2019 Hailing from the gorgeous rural countries competed for entry This annual open-air festival Fuji Rock EDC Japan town of Iwami in the western into the main programme in Chiba’s Shirahama Flower The biggest and most beautiful of Japan’s summer music festivals, JAKE WEST FOR INSOMNIAC EVENTS part of Shimane prefecture, and around 250 shorts will be Park takes place right next to Fuji Rock once again returns to ’s Naeba, MUSIC THINGS TO DO the Iwami Kagura dance is THINGS TO DO screened during the festival. the beach and combines art welcoming a beefy lineup of both international superstars and local EDC JAPAN OKINAWA MATSURI a traditional, mythological INTERNATIONAL TOKYO TOY SHOW Practically all events and with house and techno beats in heroes. This year’s roster includes The Chemical Brothers, The Cure, Beginning life as a warehouse Music, food and traditional crafts performance that’s the pride As a kid, did you ever dream viewings are free, and most films a resort-like ambience. The live Sia, Death Cab for Cutie, Jason Mraz, Martin Garrix, Cake and The party in LA in 1997, EDC (Electric from Japan’s tropical holiday of the region. Every autumn, a of a place where you could try are screened either in English or act this year is the salsa band Lumineers, just to name a few. Daisy Carnival) has grown into destination of choice are on troupe of Iwami Kagura dancers every imaginable new toy – for with English subtitles, so there’s Banderas, and rocking the DJ àJuly 26-28. Naeba Ski Resort, Mikuni, Yuzawamachi, Minamiuonuma-gun, an international music festival parade in Yoyogi Park at this free perform at various temples in free? Well it’s about to come no stopping you from taking in booths are CMT, DJ Hikaru, Niigata. fujirockfestival.com. 1-day ¥20,000; 2-day ¥36,000; 3-day ¥45,000. that hits four continents and festival, now in its eighth edition. the region, and many Shimane- true. Head over to Tokyo Big the best of mini-movies from Keihin and many others. It nearly a million fans every year. Head to the stage to catch born folks make the pilgrimage Sight for Japan’s largest annual all over the world. And if June usually sells out in advance The gleefully OTT carnival performances by Okinawan back home just to watch them. toy exhibition. This event feels like a long way off, you can – snap up your tickets before goes way beyond your typical artists, dancers and manzai This summer, you can catch the introduces thousands of the stream a bunch of the short films they’re gone. electronic music fest, blending comedians, or hit the food stalls traditional dance in Tokyo for latest kid-friendly gizmos, for free right now on the event àJun 29-30. Shirahama Flower Park, 1415-37 art installations, light shows, for soba, spam, Orion beer and one day only at Theater 1010. gadgets and games, as well as website. Konpon, Shirahamacho, Minamiboso, Chiba. fireworks, wacky costumes, maybe – if you’re really lucky – It involves elaborate make-up, books, food, fluffy toys and àJun 3-23. Various locations. shortshorts.org. 2019.upperkidz.club. Adv ¥8,500. cutting-edge stage productions some mimigaa (pig’s ears). and, of course, world-class àMay 18-19. Yoyogi Park, 2-1 Yoyogi electronic music, for what the Kamizonocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/ organisers promise will be a TOTokinawamatsuri. FREE entry. Summer Sonic ‘multi-sensory experience’. Grab While other festivals boast views of rolling hills or stunning lakes, a ticket now, since they tend to ART Summer Sonic isn’t quite so eye-pleasing. But it has easy access sell out fast. ROPPONGI ART NIGHT from the city and an abundance of clean toilets, which – along with àMay 11-12. Zozo Marine Stadium, 1 Mihama, An annual nocturnal celebration a cracking line-up – is sometimes all you really need. For its bumper Mihama, Chiba, Chiba. tinyurl.com/TOTedc. From of all things arty, Roppongi Art 20th anniversary edition, the fest has so far announced that the Red ¥18,000. Night returns with a diverse THE GAME Hot Chili Peppers are set to headline, along with hard rock duo B’z, line-up of outdoor installations, How to get the most out of your who hold the Guinness world record for the ‘best selling act live performances, cultural evening at the spectacular in Japan’, and are known for their high-energy pop-rock ballads and exhibitions, lectures and Robot Restaurant Kiss-like pyrotechnics. Grammy-winning DJ duo The Chainsmokers workshops, taking over the are also on the lineup, which will be expanded soon. neighbourhood from dusk until PLAN If you’re looking for à Aug 16-18. Makuhari Messe, 2-1 Nakase, Mihama, Chiba, Chiba. way past dawn. As always, the something more Before you go, you should There’s a lot going on in 1-day ¥15,000; 3-day ¥39,000; Platinum ¥25,000. area’s art museums and galleries upbeat for an evening in know that this is one of those this splendid, over-the-top stay open until the wee hours. Shinjuku, treat yourself experiences that get better with spectacle of neon lights and Top tip: head to Mori Museum in to a jaw-dropping show the more people you go with. wacky characters. Let loose the middle of the night and catch at the Robot Restaurant. So gather your rowdiest troops and cheer loudly for your the sunrise from the picturesque Nothing is off limits at and brace yourselves for a truly favourite warriors as they THINGS TO DO observatory deck. Keep an eye this mind-boggling dinner bizarre extravaganza. If you’re wield drumsticks and katana SANJA MATSURI on the official website for the theatre, where android travelling solo, fear not – just on stage. And don’t forget to Tokyo’s biggest traditional programme line-up. musicians, spirit foxes get yourself to the venue ahead stay back after the 90-minute festival was first held in 1312 àMay 25-26. Various locations throughout and dancing ninja are just of time and make friends with show; you may just get a and celebrates the three men Roppongi. tinyurl.com/TOTRoppongiArtNight par for the course. your fellow audience members chance to take photos with who founded ’s famous in the waiting lounge before the robots and performers Ultra Sensoji Temple. This large-scale THINGS TO DO HOW TO BOOK: the show begins. This is also (only for the 4pm show on The annual Miami-born EDM spectacle Ultra debuted in Tokyo in spectacle draws over a million MANPAKU a good time to grab a beer and Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Robot Restaurant is open for three shows daily, starting at 5.55pm, 7.50pm and 2014, and it has been a success ever since. Revellers dressed in visitors to the neighbourhood Turning Showa Kinen Park into psych yourself up for holidays). Afterwards, you can neon and frills will be flocking to enjoy the laptop-busting antics for three days of processions a hotspot for gourmands and 9.45pm (with an additional show at 4pm on Fridays, weekends and holidays), and a robot showdown go out and explore the rest of Bring the of superstar DJs including some of the hottest techno acts from and traditional dance gluttons alike, this massive food the format is changed every few months to keep things fresh. You can reserve discount coupon involving a mutant what Kabukicho has to offer, around the world, plus live performances. The lineup for this year performances, culminating in festival literally piles it on. There your spot a couple of days ahead by calling the number below between 9am on page 19 with you ninja turtle and although even the eccentric has yet to be announced, but previous editions have featured Tiesto, the festival highlight when are ten themed areas, including and 10pm. The entrance fee is ¥8,000, excluding food and drinks. to Robot Restaurant a glittery lobster neon-light district will seem Afrojack, Alesso, Skrillex and other heroes of the genre. three enormous mikoshi meat, seafood, vegetables, Note: schedule might change due to maintenance. and get ¥2,000 off princess. tame after this. àSept 14-15. Tokyo Odaiba Ultra Park, 1-1-20 Aomi, Koto. ultrajapan.com. (portable shrines) are shuttled ramen, dumplings, fried food Shinjuku Robot Bldg, 1-7-7 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (). 03 3200 your bill. From ¥15,000. through the streets. and sweets, which serve up Show schedules have been revamped for the month of April, 5500. www.shinjuku-robot.com. 4pm-11pm daily. àMay 17-19. Asakusa Shrine, 2-3-1 Asakusa, dishes from all over Japan. At with a total of fi ve daily shows. Check website for details. Taito. tinyurl.com/TOTsanjamatsu. FREE entry. night, the festival opens its beer

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 20 21 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo Promotional feature

LOCAL Crazy for carbon INSIGHT

What does a gadget geek The new Casio G-Shock think about the new Gravitymaster: tougher carbon-fi bre G-Shock but also lighter Gravitymaster? Casio’s G-Shock, chasing ever greater durability in men’s wristwatches, reaches the apex of toughness with its new Gravitymaster models. The new models signal G-Shock’s third revolution in material design, supplementing the resin of the first The G-Shock ‘Master of G’ series of shock-resistant watches got G-Shock series and metal of the second with carbon and titanium, for even lighter its latest addition on March 15, when the new aviation-inspired weight and better performance in tough conditions. The outcome is a machine that is Even tougher than before GWR-B1000 Gravitymaster hit the shelves. It features an all-new anti-rust, anti-scratch and accurate, all packaged in a cool metallic finish that feels at Carbon Core Guard structure, which improves toughness while making The newest Gravitymaster home both in the great outdoors and everyday city life. it the lightest watch in its series so far. We got our hands on the doubles down on G-Shock’s GWR-B1000 in advance, and promptly asked gadget geek unwavering dedication Toru Izumoi to review the newcomer. to achieving absolute toughness. Carbon and titanium materials, long used Carbon: the material of ‘As carbon is notoriously difficult Lightweight for comfort in airplane construction to to manipulate, mass-producing dreams The toughness is achieved without sacrificing comfort. Clocking reduce weight and boost a product like the GWR-B1000, safety, form the basis of ‘To put it simply, carbon is a in at just 72g, the new design is the most lightweight in the history which features a small carbon the new watches. The new material that combines lightness of Gravitymaster. Wrist fatigue is reduced by the trademark carbon monocoque case, surely requires materials help the device with strength. It’s used in race monocoque outer case, made from lightweight super-engineering highly advanced technology and survive damages from the cars and other high-tech products resin designed to replace metal while retaining metallic strength. expertise. It’s pretty amazing that most adverse conditions that need to be both light yet Casio actually pulled it off.’ while maintaining accuracy extremely durable, giving it an aura throughout. The use of a of exclusivity. The mesh pattern titanium body and sapphire on the GWR-B1000’s carbon- Perfect for an active glass display keeps rust and scratches at bay, while durable laminated bezel instantly captures lifestyle carbon fibre for the wristband ensures that the watch stays on the the imagination of any gadget lover, ‘I’ve used a G-Shock with a metal wrist for years. and brings to mind those symbols body in the past but it can feel a weighs only 72g (about the design were extraordinary back of speed you’ll see on high-end little heavy, especially when you’re same as an egg), making it ideal then, its underlying concept sports cars. moving your arm. The GWR-B1000 for the active wearer. has stayed consistent while ‘The strength of the watch the watch itself has undergone plays into this, too. For constant evolution. Had it example, a good watch can sacrificed durability for the Designed to be used any time be the difference between life sake of design, I don’t think the and death for a mountaineer. G-Shock would have been as The G-Shock incorporates physical features that keep the watch Having your watch break down popular as it is today. easy to use whenever, wherever. In-built solar panels keep the up in the mountains can disrupt ‘That’s why you don’t have to watch ticking with the slimmest sunlight, while powerful LEDs your plans and, in the worst- be a race car driver or pilot to love and anti-reflective glass ensure clear time-reading in both the case scenario, lead to a life- the G-Shock; anyone wearing the darkest and the brightest conditions. Bluetooth-connected auto- threatening situation. For watch gets to be part of its story. adjustment keeps time environments where electronic Few people buy a Ferrari because accurate, while a G-Shock- devices fail and even usually they actually want to drive at exclusive application sturdy items can break due to 300km/h – they splurge on one links the watch and the a fall, this super-tough watch is because they want to feel the A style that fi ts anywhere smartphone. just about the trustiest partner sense of adventure and legend The new Gravitymaster does not sacrifice style for toughness, you can find.’ that come with such awesome lightness or functionality. Despite cramming intricacies into a 72g power. device, the watch retains a sporty metallic look that stands out A story on your wrist ‘I’d say the tough but light from the crowd. Certainly fitting for athletes training outdoors, the GWR-B1000 is the purest watch is equally at home in the big city. ‘I think that if an item really is realisation of the G-Shock to last, it needs to both be of concept so far. Its exemplery high quality and have a story functional beauty, brought about associated with it. The G-Shock, by pairing the ultimate material which has balanced durability with high-tech practicality, gives and functionality ever since it it unique character. Just knowing was first released in 1983, was that you’re wearing the toughest à For more information on Casio’s latest timepieces and where to purchase yours, visit casio-intl.com designed for extreme situations. watch out there is a pretty While the plastic feel and rugged satisfying feeling.’ EATING JAPAN OKINAWA Where to savour regional cuisines in Tokyo KYUSHU

THE SOUTHERNMOST of Japan’s main islands, Kyushu is where Harmonica Quina TOKYO you’ll find food havens like Fukuoka, This small eatery inside Kichijoji’s Nagasaki, Kagoshima and Kumamoto. Harmonica Yokocho serves up Fukuoka is known for its Hakata-style, Okinawan taco rice, which fuses or tonkatsu, ramen, noted for its white, western and Japanese flavours. It cloudy soup made by boiling down pork was a popular staple for the American bones. Some of today’s most popular military forces who were stationed in ramen chains were born in Fukuoka, such Okinawa during the 80s. as Ichiran and Ippudo. THE BEAUTIFUL TROPICAL The dish is simple, consisting of Home to Japan’s oldest Chinatown, Nagasaki’s islands of Okinawa joined Japan typical taco fillings served on a heap cuisine is steeped with Chinese influences, especially well over a century ago but have of rice instead of inside a taco shell. in its . Kagoshima, located on the most southern point maintained many of their own Thankfully, at Harmonica Quina the of Kyushu, sees influences from nearby Okinawa in its cuisine. customs and traditions, especially toppings are more inventive than Kurobuta (black pork) is a popular product here; it’s a descendant of when it comes to food and drink. the bog-standard beef, lettuce and the Berkshire pig that was imported from England over 400 years In Okinawan cuisine, you’ll notice cheese – you can add avocado, salsa ago. The premium brand pork can be found in everything from a distinctive Chinese influence as and even an omelette if you please. tonkatsu deep fried pork to shabu shabu. well as American touches, thanks The menu also features Okinawa to the longstanding presence of soba if you’re in the mood for noodles. US military bases in the area. à1-1-8 Kichijoji Honcho, Musashino (Kichijoji Nagasaki Hanten Okinawa’s answer to ramen is Station). 0422 21 6607. 11.30am-10pm daily. This hole-in-the-wall restaurant in known simply as Okinawa or soki Shibuya serves classic Nagasaki- soba. The noodles are eaten with TOKYO style dishes, particularly beni shoga (pickled ginger slices) noodles and sara . The champon and a few spoonfuls of koregusu, features thick wheat noodles inside a a zingy mix of chilli peppers that hearty soup teeming with veggies and have been marinated in Okinawan seafood. The sara udon, however, can (rice liquor). Goya (bitter be had with either deep-fried crispy melon) is a popular Okinawan thin noodles or thick ones (same as ingredient, used in everything the champon), and it’s topped with a from stir-frys to even beer. stir-fried starchy mix of veg, pork and is widely eaten in HAS seafood including oysters, fishcakes and squid. Don’t forget to order a Okinawa but prepared with plate of the sizable pan-fried gyoza to complete your meal. colourful tropical fish not à2-10-12 Dogenzaka, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3464 0528. 11am-2.30pm, 5pm-10pm, Sat commonly found in the rest of 11am-2.30pm, closed Sun. Japan, such as the parrotfish. Other must-try delicacies include awamori and the small, fried doughnut-like snacks called sata andagi, both of which are IT ALL indigenous to the tropical islands.

Being Japan’s capital and by far its biggest city, Tokyo hosts a diverse range of all the country’s top regional specialities, be it food and drink, culture or even arts and crafts. Why buy that pricey shinkansen SEE MORE Tinsagunuhana Located in Tokyo’s self- Open for both lunch and dinner, staples and wash them down ticket when you can experience the full KISA TOYOSHIMA breadth of the country without leaving proclaimed ‘Okinawa Town’, a the restaurant has a more laid- with awamori and, of course, Ichiniisan TIMEOUT.COM/ row of shops and restaurants back vibe during the day, when Orion beer from the islands. The the city? By the Time Out Tokyo team With two locations in Tokyo, this dedicated Kagoshima restaurant will TOKYO celebrating island life in the lunch sets include Okinawan restaurant also hosts Okinawan provide your kurobuta fix. The house special kurobuta shabu shabu west of Shinjuku, this eatery is so classics like soki soba, goya musical performances on Monday comes with a beautiful selection of thinly sliced pork ready to be dipped authentic you can almost feel the champuru ( and bitter melon and Wednesday at 7pm and 9pm. into a hot pot at your table. The lunch menu leans heavily on black pork, sand under your feet. Clay pots full stir-fry with egg and pork) and àOkinawa Town Mensore Daito Ichiba, 1-3- which can be served grilled, as tonkatsu or with soba or udon. End your of awamori are proudly displayed sashimi bowls topped with umi 15 Suginami (Daitabashi Station). 03 3321 meal with a shirokuma kakigori shaved ice, a Kagoshima made at the front of the restaurant, and budo and grated mountain yam. 2139. twitter.com/tinsag. 11.30am-2.30am, to look like a white bear, hence the name ‘shirokuma’. it’s even got a tank of umi budo In the evening, you can dig into 5pm-12am, Sat & Sun 12pm-12am, closed Tue.

àGinza Inn B1F, 3-1 Nishi, Chuo (). 03 3535 1233. ichiniisan.jp. 11.30am-10.30pm daily. OKINAWAN RESTAURANTS: KEISUKE TANIGAWA (sea grapes) growing in the shop. a wider selection of Okinawan

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A CITY WITH A DEVASTATING HISTORY, has been reborn as a popular destination in its own right, with OSAKA HIROSHIMA a Unesco World Heritage-listed peace memorial dedicated to SEE MORE reminding the world about the horrors of war (see our travel guide on p66). Food-wise, it is blessed with an abundance of TIMEOUT.COM/ seafood from the Seto Inland Sea and fresh produce harvested from the mountains, with the dekopon citrus a particular TOKYO highlight. As such, the cuisine here is rich and varied, from plump oysters and savoury pancakes to anago meshi (broiled conger on rice) and momiji manju (maple- leaf shaped cakes filled with ). Marusho Ariku Hidden away just south of the calm Shoin Jinja-dori shopping street deep in residential , Marusho Ariku is not your average neighbourhood izakaya. This shabby, somewhat bar-like joint with a small kitchen enclosed by a counter may not look like much, but it actually serves up a wonderful spread of oysters and ‘obanzai’ – traditional, healthy Kyoto-style meals. A veteran of , the owner constructs THE LARGEST CITY in West his menu around fresh oysters, sourced from wherever Japan, Osaka lures visitors with in Japan the bivalves are tastiest in each season (we its energetic vibe as well as iconic recommend the Hiroshima ones when they’re on the

attractions such as the Osaka KISA TOYOSHIMA menu). You can always choose from at least three types of Castle and the Universal Studios top-quality oysters – or you could try them all by ordering Japan theme park. But above all Minatoya and an even mushier interior, while the three-piece set, which lets you compare textures and else, Osaka is a food city, with is a speciality of the Kansai balls with a crispy crust come from flavours before deciding on a favourite. an abundance of street eats and region, but you’ll have no trouble spotting somewhere else. The flour, sauce and Besides picking off the menu, you’re welcome to look local specialities such as takoyaki the scrumptious octopus treats in Tokyo other ingredients at Minatoya are around and see what the regulars are having, or just ask (octopus dumplings), too. What could be more challenging is sourced straight from Kansai, as those the chef for the daily (deep-fried meat and vegetables finding real ‘Kansai-style’ takoyaki – in available in Tokyo apparently fail recommendations. on ), okonomiyaki fact, most Tokyoites probably couldn’t tell to satisfy the demanding chef. After Whatever you end up (savoury pancakes packed with the difference between an imitation and enjoying your takoyaki, make sure to ordering, it’s sure to ingredients), kitsune udon (fat the real deal. If it’s the latter you’re looking order dessert: the kakigori (shaved ice) pair well with some wheat soup with deep- for, go seek out this speciality restaurant sees silky smooth ice doused with your beer or sake. fried tofu) and butaman (steamed near Sasazuka Station. choice of the shop’s special syrups. à 4-2-12 Setagaya, Setagaya According to the Kansai-born fellow (Shoin-Jinjamae Station). buns filled with minced pork). In à2-41-20 Sasazuka, Shibuya (Sasazuka Station). behind the counter, you can distinguish 03 6432 6880. fb.com/ fact, Osakans are so passionate 03 6383 3120. tinyurl.com/TOTminatoya1. 11am-7pm authentic takoyaki by its crust. Kansai- marushouariku. 6pm-11pm about food that there’s a word to (last orders 6.30pm), closed Wed. explain their obsession: kuidaore, style offerings have a soft outer layer (Thu-Sat until 1am),

to eat until you drop. KISA TOYOSHIMA closed Mon.

Hiroki Kushinobo Ginza While okonomiyaki joints are dime a dozen Headquartered in the Hozenji area in Shimokitazawa, none of the others get of Osaka, Kushinobo specialises quite as busy as Hiroki. Although the savoury in kushikatsu – various deep-fried pancake dish is most often associated with delicacies served on skewers. In Osaka, this restaurant makes it Hiroshima- addition to set meals, the menu lists a style, with ingredients sourced from the wide variety of à la carte treats, all made southern city. with quality ingredients. Although the Unlike Osaka’s okonomiyaki, in which the skewered bites are all deep fried, you’ll batter and fillings are mixed together before be surprised by the diversity of flavours. cooking, the Hiroshima version is prepared We recommend ordering at least one by spreading out the batter on a hotplate, and of everything, especially the then topping it with cabbage, pork, noodles, , wagyu and asparagus. After egg and other ingredients. Hiroki also offers savouring a couple of sticks unadorned, noodle-free versions; however, first-timers try experimenting with the various in particular will want to go the whole hog, condiments: these range from classic which is expertly prepared right in front of kushikatsu sauce to sesame and a your eyes if you’re lucky enough to grab a spicy sesame- sauce. counter seat. Seafood options are available à Sakaguchi Bldg 3F, 5-5-8 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza, Yurakucho for those averse to meat. stations). 03 3571 7979. kushinobo.co.jp. Mon-Fri & days à Shimokitazawa 1F, 2-14-14 Kitazawa, Setagaya before hols 11.30am-2pm, 5pm-10.30pm (last orders (Shimokitazawa Station). 03 3412 3908. tinyurl.com/TOThiroki. 9.30pm), Sat, Sun & hols 11.30am-10.30pm (9.30pm). 12noon-9.45pm daily.

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AS THE NORTHERNMOST PREFECTURE, Hokkaido’s most famous food exports are its HOKKAIDO delicious seafood and dairy products, thanks KYOTO to the cold sea waters that surround the region and its expansive dairy farms. In fact, the THE COUNTRY prefecture produces about half the country’s , with Hokkaido dairy famous for its rich creaminess. Two dishes stand out: soup and ON A PLATE jingisukan barbecue. The former is similar to traditional , but with a thinner gravy. It usually features vegetables and meat, Short on time? The menus at these although you can be sure to find some filled restaurants showcase the varied styles of with Hokkaido’s delicious seafood. The hearty regional Japanese cuisines dish named after the Mongol warlord Genghis Khan is primarily, if not exclusively, made with lamb. Meat and vegetables are barbequed on a small, dome-shaped grill that looks like a soldier’s helmet. The meat cooks in seconds and results in an incredibly tender bite. WHILE TOKYO IS THE LAND of glossy skyscrapers and packed crossings Soup Curry Garaku that look like herd migrations, Nakamura Tokichi Located on a quiet side street near the Nakano Japan’s old capital is the land of On the fourth floor of the chrome-plated shopping mall Broadway promenade, this curry shop has temples and geisha. The whole of Ginza Six is this understated little shop. At the front, you’ll a multi-step ordering system, so it’s a good Kyoto is bike-able and it’s far more find a great variety of matcha tea for sale, but beyond a thing they have an English menu. Customers green than Tokyo. The cuisine of the mysterious partition curtain is the real gem: its café. first choose their soup curry type (chicken leg, region reflects this refinement, with Everything on the menu is made with matcha, KEISUKE TANIGAWA KEISUKE seafood, vegetable, mushroom, etc), then their delicate dishes that are steeped in including their soba and udon. The waiter will prepare Rito Kitchen soup (house original or a speciality stock for a tradition. The region has a serious complimentary tea when you sit down, while describing Local delicacies from a different island are served up few hundred yen extra). Next, you can choose sweet tooth, and green tea or matcha the day’s selection. The matcha notes in everything every month at Rito Kitchen, a restaurant dedicated some extra toppings (cheese, bacon, extra is one of its best loved exports. from the noodles to the cheesecake are mild and never to promoting the edible treasures of Japan’s veggies), your preferred spiciness level, and Kyoto cuisine is heavily influenced overpowering. We recommend the matcha soba set, which many far-flung isles. It occupies an old house in finally your rice size. We recommend pairing by Zen philosophy, which means an comes with ginger-topped rice, Kyoto pickles, matcha jelly, Kagurazaka; inside you’ll find names of the featured the soup curry with their delicious lassi made emphasis on healthy, nutrient-rich and three different ways of seasoning the soup. islands written all over on the ceiling of the ground- with Hokkaido milk. Pro tip: don’t be too cool food. Take (pickles) à Ginza Six 4F, 6-10-16 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 03 6264 5168. floor room. for the bib they give you – you’ll need it. for example: they are rendered tokichi.jp/english. 10.30am-8.30pm daily. All the Ama-cho seafood and other fresh à 5-50-3 Nakano, Nakano (). 03 5942 5101. an art form in Kyoto, with dozens ingredients served here are sourced on location and s-garaku.com. 11.30am-3.30pm (last orders 3pm), 5pm-11pm of varieties of pickled fruits and preserved with a technology called CAS (Cells Alive (10.30pm) daily. vegetables, at least a few of which are System) during transportation. This will help keep served with every meal. the food fresher than if frozen the old-fashioned way, making sure they survive the trip in pristine condition. à 6-23 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku (Kagurazaka Station). 03 6265 0368. ritokitchen.com. 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm (last Kyo-Tsukemono no Nishiri orders 9pm), closed for lunch Mon (Tue if Mon is hols). While tsukemono is wildly popular across Japan as a side dish staple, this café and store elevates the Kyoto pickle from its garnish status and makes it the star of the show. Everything on the menu is pickled, including the dessert: pickled apples and ice cream. Grab a counter seat and order a meal set, a delicately arranged pairing of flavourful pickled veggies with a basin of rice, two types of tea and a white, creamy . A long counter displays dozens of refrigerated pickles for sale, nearly all of which can be sampled. Don’t be afraid to ask questions – the friendly staff love to talk about their Zen-inspired pickle love. à Coredo Muromachi 1 1F, 2-2-1 Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo (Mitsukoshimae D47 Shokudo Station). 03 5542 1885. nishiri.co.jp. 10am-9pm daily. You can travel Japan in its entirety through your taste buds at this speciality restaurant in Shibuya Hikarie. Matsuo Genghis Khan The restaurant’s comprehensive menu features food This classy wood-panelled barbecue joint is on a narrow street off Ginza’s main drag. and drink items from all 47 prefectures; some of the A row of tabletops line one wall, with the rest partitioned behind glass walls, and at ingredients used are also put up for sale. The eatery the centre of each, depressed into the table surface, is a dome-shaped grill, meant to is part of the D47 venture at Hikarie where it joins a represent Mongolian warriors’ helmets. retail space and museum featuring items from across Although their all-you-can-eat/drink dinner deals are reasonably priced, for those Japan. You’ll want to check back frequently as the on a budget we recommend the warrior-sized lunch sets. You can choose from six menu changes each month. types of lamb and veggie grills (mostly under ¥2,000 on weekdays), which include à Shibuya Hikarie 8F, 2-21-1 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya self-serve soft drinks and all-you-can-eat , rice and miso soup (also self-serve), Station). 03 6427 2303. hikarie8.com/d47shokudo. plus dessert – a traditional Hokkaido milk pudding called yukishiki-anshin. 11.30am-10.30pm daily. à 5-9-5 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza, Higashi-Ginza stations). 03 3572 2989. matsuo1956.jp. 11.30am-3pm (last orders 2.30pm), 5pm-11.30pm (11pm) daily.

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Nakagawa Masashichi Shoten (Tokyo main store) This homeware and lifestyle store was established in 1716 in Nara, which explains the two deers in its retro logo (deers are the symbol of the Kansai city). Nakagawa Masashichi Shoten is one of those rare MADE IN artisanal stores that have survived by constantly breathing new life into traditional crafts and adapting them to suit modern lifestyles. Its Tokyo flagship store in stocks an extensive range of items created in collaboration with some of Japan’s most revered artisans, such as Hasami porcelain from Nagasaki and Kyoto’s Gofun JAPAN nail polish (from ¥1,300), renowned for its classic Japanese colours made with the powder of shells for a shiny finish. Where to buy regional You will also find Nakagawa Masashichi Shoten’s signature Hana Fukin cotton tea towels (from ¥756) that are soft to touch yet highly crafts in Tokyo absorbent and quick-drying; adorable room fragrances packed in small milk bottles (¥1,080); and the refreshing citrus bath salt (¥2,052). The brand’s products are loved for their premium quality and functional features, often presented in simple designs and toned- down colours that are emblematic of the modern Japanese aesthetic the world has come to love. Nippon-ichi Nihombashi à Kitte 4F, 2-7-2 Marunouchi, Chiyoda (). 03 3217 2010. yu-nakagawa.co.jp/p/ Takashimaya S.C. nakagawamasashichi_tokyo. 11am-9pm, Sun & hols 11am-8pm. Nippon-ichi’s interior design is a contemporary take on classic Japanese elements. The wooden displays and furniture design are inspired by the Nihonbashi of the (1603-1868). Different sceneries of that time are featured throughout the indigo and white noren curtains. Ocharaka Here you can not only buy Tokyo-exclusive souvenirs French wine – and now tea – sommelier but also gifts from across the country, which are Stéphane Danton is giving ryokucha (green tea) thoughtfully categorised by prefectures. If you’re looking a modern twist. Using his finely honed palate, for a snack, go for the crispy Yusempei crackers (¥691) from Danton is infusing the tea with a range of aromas Nagasaki, or the juicy Amanatsu mandarin in syrup (¥594) ranging from the sweet to the floral and the fruity. from Ehime. Another popular product is the revitalising The drink’s inherent taste and character is made Yunohana bath salt from Beppu Onsen, a famous hot more pronounced through the gentle aroma spring resort in Oita prefecture in southern Japan. The infusions. little area sectioned off with glass walls is also worth Ocharaka looks like a tea library, with large checking out for its monthly-changing variety of goods boxes of loose leaf tea – 57 different types in total from a specific city or region in Japan. plus several seasonal options – lining its walls. It à Nihombashi Takashimaya S.C. Shinkan 1F, 2-5-1 Nihonbashi, Chuo (Nihombashi sources its tea exclusively from small farms across Station). 03 5542 1131. yu-nakagawa.co.jp/p/3589. 10.30am-8pm daily. Japan; like wine, tea has terroir differences so while tea from Japan’s southern prefectures, such as Kagoshima, is popular for its sweet yet flavours, tea from Saitama (north of Tokyo) is less sweet but richer and stronger in taste. With his keen understanding of global tea culture, Danton is able to offer aromatic tea suited to the preferences of different customers. Raspberry-flavoured tea is especially popular among German tourists, peach flavour is a hit with Chinese customers, and British and American shoppers tend to like the mint chocolate variety. If you’re looking for classic Japanese flavours instead, Danton also provides yuzu citrus, sakura, yakiimo (roasted sweet ) or (Japanese lemon soda) flavoured teas. à Coredo Muromachi 1 B1F, 2-2-1 Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo Marugoto Nippon (Mitsukoshimae Station). 03 6262 1505. ocharaka.co.jp. 10am-9pm daily. This four-storey mall in Asakusa offers a large variety of food and lifestyle goods from all 47 prefectures. The first floor supermarket boasts a diverse selection of food and drink: think , miso (soybean paste), (rice crackers), sake and much more. Grab a few for a taste test comparison and you’ll definitely notice each of the prefecture’s distinctive flavours. At the adjoining food market you’ll find speciality shops selling natural honey from Ehime, aromatic coffee from Tottori and smoked seafood from Tokushima prefecture. For lifestyle goods and homeware, head upstairs to Hagi no Kaze, where the cheerful bags are made from Yamaguchi prefecture’s traditional fishermen flags (¥4,320), or to Osaji for organic cosmetics from Gunma prefecture – the moisturising raw soaps (¥1,728) are especially popular. Prefer to feast instead? Simply make a beeline towards the top floor and grab a table at one of the restaurants serving regional cuisines.

à 2-6-7 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 3845 0510. marugotonippon.com. 10am-8pm (1-2F), 10am-9pm (3F), 11am-11pm (4F) daily. TANIGAWA KEISUKE

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Ginza Washita Okinawa Located on the fringes of Ginza, Okinawa’s very own ‘antenna shop’ (stores run by local governments outside of their home prefectures to showcase local goods) brings a hint of tropical flavour to Tokyo’s fanciest neighbourhood. In addition to snacks, vegetables and other edibles from the REGIONAL TREATS island prefecture, handicrafts such as shamisen musical instruments and vividly coloured, beautifully decorated Yachimun pottery line the shelves. The tiny café offers Okinawan noodles, Blue Seal ice cream and Washita’s scrumptious sata andagi doughnuts. If you’re looking for a unique gift, consider picking up a few small packs of Okinawa’s famous black sugar – the pouches are decorated with cute illustrations depicting scenes from the prefecture’s remote islands. à 1-3-9 Ginza, Chuo (Yurakucho Station). 03 3535 6991. tinyurl.com/TOT-washita. 10.30am-8pm daily.

Ishikawa Hyakumangoku Monogatari Chidoriya skincare set Pretz (Japanese Established in 1949 to cater for flavours pack) Edo Honten Osaka Hyakkaten local geisha and their apprentices, Glico’s stick-shaped Ishikawa prefecture’s ‘embassy’ in Tokyo occupies three The Kotsu Kaikan building in Yurakucho houses several this Kyoto-born brand specialises are available in different flavours storeys in Ginza: there’s a café on the second floor while antenna shops, among them is this foodies’ favourite. in makeup, accessories and other depending on the part of Japan you’re the basement is reserved for sake. The shop carries an Representing Osaka with energy and flair, the Hyakkaten beauty paraphernalia made almost in. If you don’t have time to crisscross impressive 1,900 products from the twin regions of Kaga and is easy to find: just follow the distinct takoyaki aroma exclusively with ingredients picked in the country as a Pretz completist, the Noto Peninsula, including seasonal edibles, handicrafts emanating from within (there’s an eat-in space for you to the wild or grown with organic methods. consider settling for this nine-pack box, and traditional sweets. A safe bet is the ‘Kagahachiman enjoy the treat). A top-selling sweet is the Kokyu-choco, a Their travel skincare set (facial soap, which brings together the best of the okiagari monaka’ (pictured below), a cute doll-shaped wafer tiramisu-style chocolate with almonds and mascarpone herbal water, face cream, plus massage regional varieties. Top picks include filled with red bean paste made from azuki beans grown in on the inside and white chocolate coated with cocoa and cleansing oil – all in mini sizes) is Kyushu’s mentaiko (seasoned cod roe), Hokkaido. Individually wrapped in decorative paper, they powder on the outside. The shop also stocks an impressive especially impressive. green tea from central Japan, and apple make for a delicious accompaniment to a cup of tea. selection of obscure character paraphernalia, including a à Available at Ainz & Tulpe Harajuku Quest from the Shinshu region. à 2-2-18 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza-Itchome Station). 03 6228 7177. tinyurl.com/TOT- figure depicting Kuidaore , the clown-clothed mascot and Seijo Corty. à Available at Shokoku Gotochi Plaza. ishikawa. 10.30am-8pm daily. of a famous Dotonbori restaurant that operated from 1949 to 2008, and the yellow, cap-wearing Fueki doll, which is associated with a long-established stationery and industrial goods manufacturer of the same name. à Kotsu Kaikan 1F, 2-10-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda (Yurakucho Station). 03 5220 1333. tinyurl.com/TOT-osaka. 10am-10pm, Sun & hols 10am-8pm.

Hokkaido Jingisukan Honjozo Crystal Fujisan Stir- and Hokkaido’s The Makino brewery in Gunma signature grilled mutton delicacy, prefecture boasts views of Mt Fuji from together at last. Released in January its backyard, so we think these sake 2019, this Peyoung Sauce , a makers are well within their rights to sell newcomer to the ever-popular Peyoung their stuff in a bottle modelled on the instant ramen line, includes ‘real sacred peak. Made with crystal-clear jingisukan-style mutton’ – you’ll have water from beneath Fuji’s slopes, the to try it yourself to find out if barbecued sake is crisp and packs just the right meat can replicated inside a packet. amount of punch. à Available at in Shinjuku and à Available at Don Quijote in Shinjuku. selected convenience stores. KEISUKE TANIGAWA KEISUKE Shokoku Gotochi Plaza Nara Mahoroba-kan Forgot to buy those all-important local souvenirs on your Visitors to this antenna shop are greeted by Sento-kun, the fluffy mascot journeys through Japan? Not to worry: located within First of Nara, whose creator was clearly inspired by the prefecture’s famous Avenue Tokyo Station, the labyrinthine underground tame deer. Once you get past the welcoming committee, head straight shopping mall at Tokyo Station, Shokoku Gotochi Plaza Omiyage Hi-Chew for the food section and its savoury delicacies such as ‘narazuke’ pickles, lets you shop for snacks, drinks and knickknacks from These fruit-flavoured chewy candies are produced in 12 region-specific wrapped in bamboo leaves, and natto (fermented soybeans) made practically every region in the country. Look out for the flavours, from Hokkaido’s Yubari melon and Tohoku’s cherry to with extra-large soybeans. For something sweet, try the deer-shaped ‘kuramoto zanmai’, an assortment of chocolate bonbons Okinawa’s extra-sour shequasar citrus. cookies (pictured above). The Aoniyoshi restaurant nearby caters to with various types of regional sake inside, or reach for à Available at Morinaga no Okashina Okashi Yasan (Tokyo Station) & Ginza Washita Okinawa. hungry shoppers with hearty servings of Nara cuisine. Hokkaido’s distinctive breast-shaped ‘oppai chocolate’. à Nihonbashi-Muromachi 162 Bldg 1-2F, 1-6-2 Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo (Mitsukoshimae Station). à B1F, 1-9-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda (Tokyo Station). 03 3212 0020.

03 3516 3931. mahoroba-kan.jp/guide.html. 10.30am-7pm daily. ALL PRODUCT PHOTOS BY KEISUKE TANIGAWA tokyoeki-1bangai.co.jp/shop/66. 9am-9pm daily.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 32 33 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo Japan in Tokyo Japan in Tokyo

COUNTRY REGIONAL PURSUITS JAPANESE EVENTS Where to partake in regional cultures in Tokyo Saori Tokyo IN TOKYO A free-style hand weaving with roots in Osaka, saori is a beginner-friendly method in which mistakes can be turned into unique design elements. Saori Tokyo in offers classes in this flexible approach to weaving, letting you Hagoromo Nebuta Festival create your very own scarf or tablecloth in only two hours. The annual Aomori Nebuta Matsuri, with its massive papier-mâché floats and hordes Prices are reasonable too, with participation set at ¥1,500 of haneto dancers, counts among the most popular of Japan’s many traditional plus the material cost. While the staff speak only a little festivals. If you can’t make it up to Aomori in August, check out this smaller but English, they will teach you the techniques one by one while wonderfully local version in the Tokyo suburb of Tachikawa. A respectable 160,000 showing you exactly how to navigate the weaving process. people turn out every year for the Hagoromo Nebuta Festival, which takes over the Cloth woven with the saori method using natural materials Higashi-Tachikawa shopping street and its surroundings with colourful parades. such as cotton or wool is soft to the touch, making for a It features floats made by artisans from Aomori, edible specialities from northern souvenir that you’ll actually use, instead of just stowing away Japan, and much more. somewhere. à Higashi-Tachikawa Shotengai, 2-5-9 Hagoromocho, Tachikawa (Tachikawa, Nishi-Kunitachi, à 5-5-2 Sendagaya, Shibuya (Sendagaya, Yoyogi stations). 03 6273 1240. Kunitachi stations). Aug 17 & 18. hagoromonebuta55.sakura.ne.jp. saori-eng.jimdo.com. Two-hour classes held Tue-Sat from 10am, 1pm and 3pm. Koenji Awa-Odori Aomori Nebuta World The awa-odori (awa dance) tradition The Nebuta festival in the northern prefecture of Aomori, which centres around can be traced back to Tokushima in Okinawa Paradise a float parade of mythical and legendary warriors, draws more than three million Shikoku, where this dancing-in-the- Unfortunately the Japanese have not mastered spectators every year. Although not quite as impressive as the real thing, Nebuta streets fest has been going on for well teleportation yet, but this is the next best thing: World in Shinbashi offers a taste of the grand, colourful float parade’s atmosphere over 400 years. Koenji’s version is the an authentic piece of Okinawa in a nondescript right here in Tokyo. second largest such celebration in Kabukicho building. Okinawa Paradise is Run in collaboration with the Aomori prefectural authorities, it’s an izakaya where Japan and draws dance teams from a lovely rough-and-tumble izakaya where you can sip sake from the cold north and nibble on fresh seafood or desserts made all over the country, including from Tokyo-based Okinawans mingle with locals with Aomori’s famous apples while admiring the ‘mini-nebuta’ paper sculptures the birthplace of the tradition. About over island delicacies such as goya champuru created by masters of the craft. 10,000 performers get together to strut their stuff at one of Tokyo’s most intense and stir-fry and soki soba, all washed down with à Eatus Shinbashi 3F, 3-13-4 Shinbashi, Minato (). 03 6809 1777. Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm (last orders exciting festivals. a glass of Orion beer or a cup of awamori. 2pm), 5pm-12midnight (11pm), Sat, Sun & hols 12noon-11pm (10pm). à Streets between Koenji and Shin-Koenji stations, Aug 24 & 25. koenji-awaodori.com. Stay for the Okinawa-born proprietor’s nightly performance of traditional songs Shinjuku Eisa Matsuri and shamisen-playing, which usually brings Like most things Okinawan, traditional eisa dancing has been enthusiastically the atmosphere to boiling point. This is the embraced by the rest of the country, as demonstrated by this annual Shinjuku kind of place that’ll warm you up through and parade. More than 1,000 dancers of all ages take to the streets around the east exit of through, even on the coldest of evenings. Dream Academy Shinjuku Station, as well as in Kabukicho, to beat portable taiko drums and twirl their à Oscar Bldg No. 1 3F, 1-2-16 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Namahage Ginza Always wanted to learn how to play the shamisen (a way through the crowds – a boisterous and colourful event sure to brighten up your day. Station). 050 5869 4925. Sun-Thu & hols 5pm-12midnight, Fri, Sat Akita prefecture is famous for its traditional three-string Japanese musical instrument)? While food and drink stalls aren’t part of the equation, you won’t have trouble finding a and days before hols 5pm-1am. tradition of namahage – scary- Get started at Dream Academy, which operates schools place nearby to cool down or fill up in between dances. looking deities portrayed by men throughout Tokyo and offers classes fortsugaru-jamisen , a à Around the east exit of Shinjuku Station, July 27 (date subject to change). shinjuku-eisa.com. dressed in demon masks and string instrument and regional variety of shamisen from the straw outfits who go from house Tsugaru region of . Said to have been the Harajuku-Omotesando to house scaring children and instrument of choice for blind musicians travelling around Super Yosakoi driving away evil spirits every the area back in the day, the tsugaru-jamisen is generally The original yosakoi started in Kochi February. If being yelled at by played without a score, relying only on improvisation. prefecture, and Tokyo’s own Super a raging ogre while enjoying a Powerful at times and gentle at others, tsugaru-jamisen Yosakoi festival has successfully SEE MORE serving of Akita cuisine sounds tunes are sometimes referred to as ancient Japan’s version imported this energetic style of like your idea of a fun night out, of jazz or blues. You can receive guidance on your own or dancing to the capital. Taking over TIMEOUT.COM/ booking a table at this unique as part of a group, either in English or in another language Omotesando, Yoyogi Park and parts of izakaya in Ginza will do the trick. of your choice (contact the school for more details). In the nearby Shrine, the event sees TOKYO Namahage shows take place addition to the shamisen, Dream Academy offers lessons in brightly attired dancers trying to outdo here every evening at 7.15pm and instruments such as taiko drums, koto and shinobue flute. If each other as they strut their stuff to the rhythm of the naruko clapper, attracting an 10pm, when diners tend to already be well fed on traditional kiritanpo hot pot. This you’re looking to fit a class into a day of sightseeing, making audience of roughly one million every year. With that kind of turnout, expect to queue warming delicacy, which is based on a chicken and potherb broth, can be savoured a booking at their outpost near Asakusa is probably the for most of the food and drink booths dealing in Kochi delicacies. while sitting around a proper fireplace – or if you’re feeling fancy, in a private room most convenient option. à Harajuku, Omotesando, Meiji Shrine, Yoyogi Park and other venues, late August. shaped like an igloo (yes, really – Akita gets cold in the winter). à Outlets in Asakusa, Ryogoku and Tokyo Skytree. 090 8355 8424. tokoton634.net/ super-yosakoi.tokyo. à Nakajima Shoji Bldg 9F, 8-5-6 Ginza, Chuo (Shimbashi, Ginza stations). 03 3571 3799. fb.com/AkitaDiningNamahage. english. For bookings, email [email protected]. 5pm-11.30pm daily.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 34 35 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo Japan in Tokyo Japan in Tokyo GOOD TO GO – from the words ‘eki’ (railway station) and ‘’ (boxed lunch) – are boxes filled with local specialities designed to be eaten on the go. Tokyo is lucky enough to have outlets selling ekiben from regions across Japan. Here are some of our Abe Tottoridou Kanimeshi favourites, should you be riding the rails or just Tottori, ¥1,350 fancy trying something different. By Kaila Imada You can’t mistake what’s inside this adorable bento thanks to the crab-shaped box it comes in. Simply filled with kanimeshi (crab rice), this bento from Tottori prefecture is a wonder for those who don’t have Kiyouken Siu Mai Bento the patience to dig out all that juicy meat from the Yokohama, ¥860 shell. Topped with two perfectly shaped claws, this is Found all over Tokyo Station, this tasty Chinese-style one indulgent lunch for the seafood-lover. ekiben consists of five pieces of siu mai (traditional Chinese dumplings), eight balls of rice plus a selection of small bites including egg, pickles and fish cakes. Originating in Yokohama, this bento comes from the long-established shop Kiyouken, which started out back in 1908. If you happen to pass by , they actually have a restaurant you can dine in – but this bento is a convenient option for those in Tokyo and hungry. Jiraiya Hana Temari Nagoya, ¥950 Sasahachi The highlight of this bento are the , or fried Temarizushi Bento fritters wrapped up in rice and Nara, ¥900 (seaweed), served alongside an This bento from Nara is almost too omelette, meatball and assorted pretty to eat: the tiny round nigiri vegetables. They’re the perfect sushi, otherwise known as temari, finger food: neat and easy to eat. is the perfect bite-sized option Tenmusu is a delicacy of Nagoya, if you’re craving sushi on the go. and these small rice balls come in Also containing a selection of sides a variety of stuffings and flavours. including a tamago egg roll, a piece You’ll often find them at stations as of and a mushroom, part of a bento box or wrapped up this bento has everything you need snugly inside a leaf for easy travel. for a well-balanced meal.

Takaben Daruma Bento Gunma, ¥1,080 Packed with a healthy selection of mountain vegetables including takenoko (bamboo shoots), mushrooms and burdock, this cute bento comes in a traditional daruma doll-shaped container – understandable, as Gunma prefecture is home of the Takaben Daruma Bento and Japan’s leading producer of daruma dolls. After you’re done eating, the box can be used as a piggy bank, thanks to the thin

PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEISUKE TANIGAWA (coin) slot that doubles as a mouth.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 36 37 Japan in Tokyo Promotional feature

WHERE TO BUY

Ekibenya Matsuri Located beyond the JR ticketing gates of the ever-busy Tokyo Station, this is the perfect pit stop before you leave Tokyo on a shinkansen. There are a host of options, so take your pick from ekiben sourced from all over Japan, as well as Tokyo favourites. As the store is always packed, it’s good to get there early for the best options. Also, certain bento are released at particular times throughout the day; always ask the shop staff for help if you can’t find the specific box you’re looking for. à1F ticketing area, JR Tokyo Station, 1-9-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda The wonderful (Tokyo Station). 03 3213 4352. 5.30am-11pm daily. Hisato Hamada and Takafumi Horie – the Ekibenya Itadaki two personalities behind Wagyumafia – will be The sister store to Ekibenya world of at the event, showcasing food demonstrations Matsuri, this Shinjuku Station and live cooking while sharing their love for outpost offers a similar selection Japanese Wagyu. During the dinner, you'll get Izasa Chaya Izasazushi Bento of bento. Also located past the to sample a variety of cuts from this premium JR ticketing gates, this grab-and- beef, so you can really learn to appreciate the Nara, ¥1,080 go shop is the ideal place to get Wagyu difference in taste and texture. Plus, you get to Originally from Nara, this picture-perfect bento box is a great option if you’re looking your meal for the rails. cook the beef to your liking over custom-made to get a taste of classic Japanese flavours. The box is segmented into a grid of nine, each àSouth Concourse, JR Shinjuku We’re teaming up with beef specialist shichirin grills. It’s really the ultimate dinner for featuring a different item, including pickled veggies, various types of rice, seafood and Station, 3-38-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku Wagyumafia for another dinner event. For those all Wagyu lovers out there. a sweet mochi ball filled with anko (red bean paste) to end your meal. (Shinjuku Station). 03 3340 2629. who didn’t get a chance to attend our exclusive 6.30am-10pm daily. Wagyu night back in March, you’ll get another chance to dine on some of Japan’s best Wagyu Gransta Tokyo Station beef. At this special night on May 20, Head down to the basement level you’ll get to experience WM by Wagyumafia, of Tokyo Station after passing the world’s most expensive standing yakiniku the JR ticketing gates and you’ll joint, which is usually only open to members. find the massive Gransta food However, for this special evening, WM by and shopping complex, where Wagyumafia is welcoming anyone who wants to everything from fresh food join in on this indulgent Wagyu dinner. counters to sweet souvenir shops The name 'Wagyumafia' may ring a bell for can be found. The takeaway area those who have drooled over its famed Wagyu in particular offers a staggering sandwich that's been hailed as the amount of fresh food on a daily world’s most extravagant sando. However, basis, where you can pick from you’ll get to taste something more premium beautifully packaged bento boxes and indulgent at this beefy dinner. Come hungry to and deli items. This and expect to be wowed by top cuts of Wagyu area stocks popular food items beef and unparalleled knowledge that will help from other areas of Japan, such Ishikari Shakemeshi Ujiie Kakimeshi further your appreciation for this high-quality as specialty bento from Nara and Sapporo, ¥1,150 Hokkaido, ¥1,080 Japanese speciality. Hailing from Sapporo, this seafood ekiben Hokkaido is known for its seafood, and this tenmusu from Nagoya. is filled with fine flakes of topped rice bento featuring plump oysters is filling àB1F, JR Tokyo Station, 1-9-1 with ikura (salmon roe). and deliciously moreish. Marunouchi, Chiyoda (Tokyo Station). 03 6212 1740. 8am-10pm, àMake a reservation now for your spot at the dinner on May 20. There will be two seatings (7pm and 9pm), limited to 20 diners each. Sun 8am-9pm. Price: ¥35,000 per person per seating (non-refundable). For more information, check tinyurl.com/TOTwagyu.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 38 Japan in Tokyo Japan in Tokyo

KNOW SAGA FUKUSHIMA HIROSHIMA Although Kyushu is more associated with Fukushima has a long history as a Hiroshima sake’s prestige is credited shochu, it is, in fact, a prolific producer of reputable sake region, with many of the largely to the ‘father of Hiroshima sake’, sake – and one to get acquainted with. The prefecture’s 60 breweries dating back Senzaburo Miura, who, in 1868, devised fertile and vast plain facing the Ariake over 300 years. But it was the aftermath a unique method for brewing sake YOUR Sea is one of Japan’s leading rice fields, of the Tohoku Earthquake of 2011 using the area’s soft water. The result is blessed with abundant underground that really propelled local brewers to the mellow, gently aromatic brew the water from nearby mountain ranges. Sake strive for sake excellence; they united region is known for, which is generally brewing in Saga began significantly in the together to not only rebuild the local sweeter than the sake of more northerly Edo period, when Naomasa Nabeshima, sake industry after the disaster, but to regions. Hiroshima is also home to the SAKE the 10th daimyo of the Nabeshima Clan, improve it. Uniquely, the producers share National Institute of Sake Brewing, and passionately encouraged its production. their knowledge on brewing methods, its technological advancements in sake In contrast with the light, crisp and which are usually heavily guarded brewing, combined with the region’s refreshing sake from northern Japan, trade secrets. The variety of climates quality rice, clean water and award- Saga sake is known for being umakuchi in Fukushima result in quite different winning ‘Hiroshima Ginjo’ yeast, result in – sweeter, richer, more robust, a taste brews: the mountainous inland area of consistently excellent sake. that spreads throughout your mouth on -Wakamatsu is known for a richer, sipping. This matches the rich culinary sweeter, more umami-laden type of sake What to expect Rich ‘rice-y’ sake on profile of the area: sweet boiled potatoes, to match the more hearty cuisine, while the sweeter side, but with an overall wheat stewed with mushrooms, pickles the coastal region of Hamadori brews mellowness and softness with salt, etc. light and refreshing varieties to match the local seafood. Labels to try Ugonotsuki, Taketsuru, What to expect Rich, full-flavoured, Seikyo, Imada Fukucho, Fukucho, Nakao dense and juicy What to expect Sweet flavour, umami- Shuzo, Kamoizumi rich, mellow acidity, smooth texture Labels to try Nabeshima, Amabuki, Shichida, Koimari Shuzo, Azuma Tsuru, Labels to try Sharaku, Tenmei, Yamanoi, Azumaichi Roman, Hiroki, Daishichi, Suehiro

One of the best ways to explore the many regions of Japan is through sake, says Jessica Thompson AKITA ISHIKAWA NIIGATA KYOTO YAMAGATA The cold, harsh winters of Akita created Ishikawa sake will keep you guessing, Snowy winters, an abundance of Kyoto is one of the oldest areas of sake Yamagata in northern Tohoku is the one TRIED ONE SAKE, you’ve tried them all, right? a tradition of hearty cuisine, hence the and keep you engaged. During the Edo mountains and rivers and one of the brewing, and the second-biggest sake region in Japan with a ‘geographical Thankfully, this couldn’t be further from the plethora of bold-tasting dishes and period (1603-1868), sake from Ishikawa most famous varieties of rice for sake producer by volume in Japan after indication’ for sake. This is a nationally truth. Much like wine, the ingredients for sake fermented food. Such rich pickings need prefecture was characterised by its brewing (gohyaku-mangoku) endow Niigata. The Fushimi region in particular registered appellation that certifies are few – rice, koji (rice mold), water and yeast a bold sake, and that’s exactly what Akita sweetness and richness – the influence of Niigata with premium sake-producing has a rich sake legacy, thanks to its access a sake’s origin and quality, and is – but the variables are many. Rice type, rice produces. Aside from abundant water the region’s group of traditional master credentials. In fact, it has the highest to the Horikawa River, which meant sake recognised by the World Trade polishing grade, the water’s mineral content, and high-quality rice, the emergence of brewers. But over the years, the brews number of producers (around 96) of cargo could flow freely out of the area; its Organisation. The sake-brewing water of type of yeast, climate, the cuisine of a region AK-1 (Akita flower yeast) in recent years have become a little drier and cleaner, all the prefectures in Japan. Niigata’s access to Kyoto aristocracy, who made Yamagata comes from the surrounding and even the alchemic bent of the brewers provides the sake of the area with a strong with an end result that is often a clear and soft water and cold winters equal a slow up the bulk of the sake market until the snowy mountains and has a high mineral can vastly affect the character of the resulting aroma and complexity. Although Akita light sake of complex depth. Ishikawa fermentation for the sake, resulting in end of the Edo era; and its supply of the content, which generally creates a sake sake. may only have around 38 breweries, they brewers are known for the ‘yamahai’ style a delicate brew. And if you’re looking pristine Gokosui underground spring with a crisp, sharp finish. Look out for There are around 1,500 sake breweries are renowned for a culture of innovation, of sake, which uses airborne rather than for drinking buddies to enjoy this tipple water found in the area. If you visit Kyoto Yamagata sake bottles that are marked across Japan, from Hokkaido in the north to with collaborations between young added yeasts to produce funky, wild- with, Niigata is the place to be – it tops the today, go check out the wooden kura with the label ‘DEWA33’, which indicates Okinawa in the south, each with unique brews. brewers and experimentation with new tasting brews. nation’s sake consumption, at 12.4 litres (brewery warehouses) off the charming 100 percent of its ingredients come from Granted, the regional differences in sake may techniques. per person a year. streets of the Fushimi district. Yamagata, so you can expect the distinct not be as pronounced as terroir in wine, but it What to expect Soft mouthfeel, light flavour profile of Yamagata sake to shine still makes for a fascinating way to discover the What to expect Rich, memorable, and clear, but with fragrant and complex What to expect Dry, clean, elegant, What to expect Smooth and silky, through. many regions of Japan. We check in with sake unique sake depth gentle on the palate slightly sweet and fragrant sommelier Yuki Imanishi – who has visited What to expect Dry, clean and light over 250 sake breweries to learn about the top Labels to try Yuki no Bijin, Aramasa, Labels to try Tedorigawa, Mioya Shuzo, Labels to try Kakurei, Kame no O, Labels to try Matsumoto, Tamagawa, sake regions and now organises sake brewery Yuki no Bosha, Kariho, Yamato Shizuku Kikuhime, Tengumai, Noto Homare Kamonishiki, Kirinzan, Midorikawa, Kyo no Haru, Eikun, Tamanohikari, Labels to try Juyondai, Yonetsuru, tours (sakelovers.co.jp) – to find out what to Hokusetsu, Fujioka Shuzo Mukai Shuzo, Tsukino Katsura Mitobe, Dewazakura, Eiko Fuji, Jokigen

look out for in different regional sake. ASIA/PIXTA MOVE

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 40 41 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo Japan in Tokyo Japan in Tokyo

GINZA KENGYO SAKE CELLAR The city’s best... Kengyo is part-bottle-shop, part-standing- bar, which stocks over 150 types of boutique sake from across Japan. It’s a bright, light- filled, welcoming space, with large windows Places to overlooking Ginza’s backstreets. Sake can be bought by the 90ml glass from just ¥500. Otherwise, get a tasting flight of three kinds of daiginjo (the A-list sake) or drink sake seasonal sake for ¥1,000 yen (all 60ml pours). And if you find something you like, you can purchase the entire bottle to go. The snack selection, on the other hand, is a playful take on traditional tachinomi (standing bar) offerings, like cans of braised UTSURA UTSURA fish and stewed motsu (innards), as well Located on a quiet corner in Shibuya, Utsura as Japan bar favourites like potato salad, Utsura has that type of enticing nighttime tsukemono (pickles), hiyayakko (cold dressed glow that just beckons you in. Through the tofu), edamame and smoked cheese. Kengyo wooden door you’ll find a bar counter that is located just five minutes from Ginza’s main seats eight, running along the narrow open Chuo-dori shopping street, making it the kitchen where you can watch the chef and sake perfect spot to swing by between department sommelier at work. The latter is, uniquely, a stores. hot sake specialist, and watching him warm up à 3-8-12 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 03 5159 1401. kengyo. the drinks to their precise temperature can be co.jp. Mon-Fri 12noon-10pm (last orders 9.30pm), Sat, Sun & hols rather hypnotic. There are tables for four at the 10am-6pm (5.30pm). back of the room, and the vibe is professional

but warm. KISA TOYOSHIMA The concept of this gastrobar is to find the right sake to match the dish you’d like to eat, or vice versa. Sake comes by the glass, starting around ¥500, or 180ml carafes ranging from ¥700 to ¥1,500, with about 40 varieties of regularly changing labels on offer. The elaborate otoshi (quick bites, much like an appetiser) platter is a standout, with around six tiny seasonal dishes like strawberry with tofu and sesame cream, and duck steamed in soy sauce with poached kumquats. à 2-14-5 Shoto, Shibuya (Shibuya, Shinsen stations). 03 3485 1555. 6pm-12midnight daily (last orders 11pm). KISA TOYOSHIMA JAPAN SAKE AND SHOCHU MEISHU CENTRE HASEGAWA SAKETEN INFORMATION CENTER If you want to sample a bunch of different sake Whether you’re looking to buy sake to take No matter if you’re just getting started on your in one sitting, this is the place to be. Brightly home or sit at a sophisticated little bar and sake journey or a discerning expert, there’s lit and filled on weeknights with a largely drink boutique sake by the glass, Nihonbashi always more to learn. The Japan Sake and salaryman crowd, Meishu Centre is dotted Hasegawa Saketen has you covered. Enter Shochu Information Center serves up not just with freestanding tables all set with three small the L-shaped store and on your left you’ll an excellent and extensive range of sake and glasses ready for the tasting flight: you browse find a long line of glowing refrigerators shochu, but also an abundance of information the walls of sake, then flag down one of the staff brimming with sake from across Japan. To about these traditional Japanese beverages. to fill your glasses with your selection. The your right and around the corner is a suave KISA TOYOSHIMA Imagine a bar combined with a library – but prices start from ¥200 for a glass of sake, and if little bar that seats about six. The bar has that one where you’re encouraged to drink and you get three at a time, you get a ¥100 discount. special juxtaposition of the old and the new chat. The shelves are lined with a cornucopia The vibe here is relaxed and jovial, with – just outside is the Fukutoku shrine, of sake and shochu information, from books swing jazz playing over the speakers. Regular surrounded by the stylish Coredo shopping YUMMY SAKE COLLECTIVE published on the subject matter to pamphlets patrons interact with the staff, openly and dining complex, and with a backdrop of This dimly lit interior of Yummy Sake Collective gives it an underground highlighting the sake of each region. The space comparing sake, and if you’re feeling peckish, towering Nihonbashi skyscrapers. nightclub feel. Just a few minutes walk from Daikanyama Station, the itself is airy and modern but homely enough the fridges are stocked with old-school snacks Inside Hasegawa Saketen, copper vintage standing bar fits about eight people, illuminated by the glow from the sake to feel relaxed. The bar serves around 100 (think potato salad, vegetable pickles, pickled lamp shades decorate the room, and the all- refrigerators behind. There’s also a chic attic upstairs, complete with white- varieties of sake and shochu, which change squid, etc) that pair well with sake. Sake bottles glass exterior makes it feel like an Edo-era painted timber walls, a long shared table and dangling exposed lightbulbs. monthly. If you find a bottle you particularly are arranged by prefecture, and the offerings liquor store-bar with a Fifth Avenue makeover. The bar sells around 80 sake varieties, served in glass carafes of 90 to 100ml. like, grab a bottle to go – you can call it change with the seasons and according to new The bar serves around 17 varieties of sake by The fun part is you get to choose your sake cup from a basket filled with a mish- homework... releases. If you find one you really like, you can the glass, including traditional as well as many mash of options from ceramics to elaborate kiriko cut glass. What Yummy à 1-6-15 Nishishinbashi, Minato (, Toranomon also buy a bottle to take home. modern and innovative brews, starting at ¥400 Sake Collective excels at is pushing boundaries with their ‘AI’ approach to sake stations). 03 3519 2091. tinyurl.com/TOTjapansakesochu. Mon-Fri à Isoyama Daini Bldg 1F, 2-3-29 Hamamatsucho, Minato per glass. If you’re hungry, the snacks on offer drinking. They’ve created 12 sake profiles, determined by blind-tasting 10 10am-6pm, closed Sat, Sun & hols. (Hamamatsucho Station). 03 5405 4441. nihonshu.com. Mon-Fri range from dishes like deep-fried broad beans, small nips of diverse sake and registering your response in an app. Based on 2pm-10pm (last orders 9.30pm), Sat 3pm-8pm (7.30pm), closed oden, grilled chicken skewers and udon with your answers, you’ll be told which type of sake best suits you. Sun & hols. chilled . à 14-11 Daikanyama, Shibuya (Daikanyama Station). 03 6312 2448. yummysake.jp. 5pm-12midnight, à 2-1-1 Nihonbashi-honcho, Chuo (). 03 6262

KISA TOYOSHIMA Sat, Sun & hols 2pm-12midnight. 3111. 11am-8pm daily.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 42 43 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo Eating & Drinking

CAFE NO. HARAJUKU If you’re a fan of photogenic food, you’ll love this Osaka- born café, which opened a pastel-coloured Tokyo offshoot in Harajuku this past December. We love the Strawberry Local heroes Milk (¥600), an extremely Instagram-friendly concoction composed of strawberry puree, condensed milk and These restaurants are so popular in their regular milk, poured into a bottle. Make sure to shake it home prefectures they’ve opened up well before drinking. à Flag Jingumae 1F, 3-27-15 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku, Meiji-Jingumae stations). YAMACHAN GINZA shop right here in Tokyo. By the Time Out instagram.com/cafe_no_harajuku. Mon-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat, Sun & hols 10.30am-8pm. If you’re looking for a Hakata-style ramen chain that hits Tokyo team the spot, head to Yamachan in Ginza. This no-frills noodle joint is a popular late-night slurp spot for Fukuoka natives and boasts a high-tech touchscreen vending machine at the front of the shop (English explanation available). For just ¥700 you can get the ‘Nagahama Ramen’, with its generous sprinkling of green onions, char siu and Hakata’s signature thin noodles in a creamy tonkotsu (pork-based) broth. On the counter you’ll find julienned ginger and pickled takana mustard leaves to add a spicy kick. Simply stir it all in and enjoy. à 3-11-10 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza, Higashi-Ginza stations). 03 5565 1838. nagahama-yamachan.jp/ginza. 11am-4am, 11am-11pm Sun & hols.

KINGKEN TOKYO Hailing from Hiroshima, where it has won a loyal following with its simple but oh-so-addictive ‘soupless’ , Kingken TORITON is located near Shiba Park With seafood delivered straight from the and gets reliably packed restaurant’s Hokkaido headquarters, it’s clear every lunchtime. The chefs BLUE SEAL why people are willing to stand in long lines for a are adamant about using the exact same ingredients Founded in 1948 at a US military base in spot at this affordable kaitenzushi joint. Toriton as the original restaurant, and apparently the taste Okinawa, Blue Seal has since become a is a seafood lover’s paradise, with menu items is identical – transplants from Hiroshima make up a favourite ice cream brand throughout Japan. GYOZA HOHEI including buttery kanimiso (crab innards), significant portion of the regulars. The 30 or so flavours come from an ‘orange Sister shop to their ever-popular gleaming ikura (squid) nigiri wrapped in salmon, You can choose from four degrees of heat for your book’ that contains the company’s secret Kyoto restaurant, this is the perfect and an icy fresh Hokkaido shrimp nigiri. Plates noodles, with ‘2’ probably the most common pick and recipes, though they do explain that the spot to get your late-night gyoza range from ¥141 to ¥681, and unlike many other ‘4’ recommended only for experienced spice fiends. unique, smooth texture comes from the plant fix. Gyoza Hohei has received the sushi-go-round spots where it’s advisable to order A common beginner’s mistake at Kingken is to dig in oils the ice cream is prepared with. Michelin Bib Gourmand nod for three directly from the chef, here you can happily pluck as soon as your dish arrives. Instead, you’re supposed This outpost in Ebisu Garden Place offers consecutive years since 2017, and is plates straight from the conveyor belt. to mix the noodles and the sauce at the bottom until a range of sweet things besides ice cream, best known for its signature bite-sized If you do want to order instead, you’ll need to the two are entirely blended together. Another thing including over 30 kinds of crêpes (both sweet dumplings with a savoury and write down which dishes you’d like and how many to keep in mind is not to throw in the soft-boiled egg and savoury), tapioca drinks, and soft serve leek filling and a crisp exterior. Its plates on a small order slip. Yes, there are cheaper you get with your dish right away. Save that for what sundaes. There’s a lot to entice, but the best ginger gyoza, which contain no garlic kaitenzushi places out there, but Toriton’s you get after finishing your noodles, ‘dandan rice’: treats are the classic Okinawan ice cream or nira onion, are a popular alternative generous portions combined with the freshness of white rice, mixed in with your remaining sauce and flavours. The Okinawa ta-imo cheesecake for those wary of plaguing their the fish make it an unforgettable stop that’ll leave flavoured with extra sauce, vinegar, sansho pepper ice cream pairs excellently with a scoop of companions with bad breath. you dreaming of your meal long after you’ve left. and other spices available at your table. shio-chinsuko (Okinawan salt cookie). Both à 8-7-9 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza, Higashi-Ginza, Shimbashi à Tokyo Skytree Town Solamachi 6F, 1-1-2 Oshiage, Sumida (Tokyo Skytree, à Sigma Bldg 1F, 2-10-5 Shibakoen, Minato (Shiba-Koen, Daimon, flavours are sweet, mild and totally delicious. stations). 03 6274 6960. tinyurl.com/TOTgyozahohei. Oshiage stations). 03 5637 7716. tinyurl.com/TOTtoriton. 11am-11pm daily Hamamatsucho stations). 03 6452 9330. kingken.jp. 11am-3pm, 5pm-8pm (Sun à Ebisu Garden Place, 4-20-5 Ebisu, Shibuya (). 03 5422 5pm-3am, Sat 11am-3pm, 5pm-9pm, closed Sun & hols. (last orders 10pm). & hols 11am-3pm only), closed Sat. 6634. en.blueseal.co.jp. 11am-10pm daily.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 44 45 Eating & Drinking TIME OUT LOVES Beef may be the quintessential Japanese red meat but it’s got a new rival. Lamb is gaining popularity as a leaner, healthier Lamb option. Here’s where to get your fix of chops, shanks, steak or shabu shabu in the capital. restaurants By Hideaki Nakayama

JINGISUKAN YOICHI SHINJUKU HITSUJI NO YU Residents of Hokkaido were eating lamb and mutton long before Not a fan of grease? Try the lamb shabu shabu at Shibuya’s the current trend hit the rest of Japan, and Tokyo has its fair share Hitsuji no Yu, where you boil thin slices of meat in a hot of restaurants specialising in the northern region’s most famous pot at your table. You choose a soup from options such as ICELANDIC LAMB OZ meat dish. Japanese-style , ‘medicinal’ and , or go for One of the few restaurants serving Jingisukan, named after the Mongol warlord Genghis Khan, consists the ‘hybrid nabe’ (¥3,480) – a combination of shabu shabu Icelandic lamb in Japan, Oz opened last of mutton and vegetables prepared on a metal skillet and eaten with and Hokkaido-style grilled mutton. year to showcase delicacies from the a special sauce. Jingisukan Yoichi in Shinjuku makes its version with While the regular all-you-can-eat shabu shabu sets start land of glaciers and volcanoes. Allowed top-quality, fatty Australian meat, flown in fresh at regular intervals. from ¥3,580, anyone dining between 5pm and 7pm can to roam freely in the mountains and A simple serving of mutton and onion goes for ¥980 – try it with the feast to their stomach’s content for only ¥2,980. You can’t feed on wild herbs and grass, Icelandic shop’s own Hokkaido and salt for optimum flavour. Opened last miss the shop’s flashy sign on the Namikibashi intersection, sheep are particularly strong and year, this Shinjuku joint stays open until the early hours on Friday and now informally known as the ‘Sheep Crossing’ thanks to the healthy, resulting in meat with a pure, Saturday nights. presence of both Hitsuji no Yu and its offshoot, Hitsujimon. refined flavour. The eclectic menu à Shinjuku Urban Hotel 2F, 2-8-12 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Higashi-Shinjuku Station). 03 6457 6929. à 3F, 3-14-4 Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 050 5593 9856. 5pm-12am daily (last orders ranges from simple chops (¥400) to youichi.jp. Mon-Thu 5pm-11.30pm, Fri 5pm-4am, Sat 4pm-4am, Sun & hols 4pm-11.30pm. 11pm). Japanese- and Chinese-style options, making it fun to explore whether you’re a veteran lamb fan or new to the meat. à 2-3-7 Senjuazuma, Adachi (Kitasenju Station). 090 6727 4029. oz-corp.jp/oz_restaurant.html. 5pm-11pm daily.

NIKUJIRUYA YAKIHITSUJI YANG XIANG AJIBO HITSUJI SUNRISE An offshoot of popular Shinbashi offal specialist Dan, Nikujiruya lets As suggested by its name – a play on ‘yakitori’, except with The Ajibo chain of Chinese restaurants can always be counted on for Tokyo’s adventurous gourmands flock to this innovative shrine to all you prepare your meat over a tabletop charcoal grill. Since opening in the ‘tori’ (bird) replaced by ‘hitsuji’ (sheep) – ’s something a little out of the ordinary, and this particular venture is no things ovine, located just a few minutes’ walk from -Juban Station. 2016, it’s already won a loyal following for its top-quality fare, procured Yakihitsuji serves up fusion fare inspired by dishes you’d exception. Opened in 2016 after the chefs at Ajibo’s flagship branch Sunrise lets you compare the flavours of lamb sourced from several by sourcing whole animals and making good use of every last cut. usually encounter at chicken-focused joints, prepared noticed how popular their lamb dishes were, Yanshan Ajibo rolls different countries, including Japan – a true rarity, as domestic fare While offal is on the menu, the most popular choice is the T-bone with the traditional methods and artisanship so central to out a mouthwatering spread of Japanese-Chinese favourites, from accounts for only about one percent of the total lamb and mutton market. lamb steak, a combination of sirloin and fillet available in three . gyoza to stewed noodle dishes, all made with lamb or mutton. Amply None of the meat served to customers is frozen during handling, sizes (large ¥850, medium ¥800 and small ¥750). A highlight is the The meat can be enjoyed in grilled, deep-fried or stewed seasoned with herbs and Chinese spices, they’re sure to warm you up making sure that only the most umami-rich cuts end up on your plate. jingisukan, a Hokkaido dish of mutton grilled on a metal skillet, which form, with popular choices including 50g mini-steaks on a chilly evening. Prices aren’t particularly high at dinner – a set of Domestic lamb options start from ¥1,900 and include offal dishes, comes with endless helpings of bean sprouts. grilled over charcoal (from ¥400), seared lamb (¥980) and five lamb skewers costs just ¥1,080 – but the lunch menu includes a curry and lightly flambéed tartare, while Australian imports can be had à 4-15-8 Shinbashi, Minato (Shimbashi Station). 050 5890 1104. Mon-Sat 5pm-12midnight, closed Sun. lamb with vinegared miso (¥890). The ¥5,000 dinner deal, few absolute bargains. from ¥1,080. Grab a seat at the counter to admire the handiwork of the centred on a white miso sukiyaki hot pot, is a good bet if à 3-12-6 , Taito (Yushima Station). 03 6803 0168. Mon-Fri 11.30am-10.30pm, Sat & Sun resident grill masters. you’re hungry. 1pm-10.30pm. à Pia Azabu-Juban II 3F, 2-19-10 Azabujuban, Minato (Azabu-Juban Station). 03 6809 3953. à Nakagawa Bldg B1F, 4-4-7 , Chiyoda (). 050 5596

sheepsunrise.jp. 6pm-11.30pm, Fri 6pm-2am, closed Wed. ICELANDIC LAMB OZ: YUKI NAKAMURA; ALL OTHERS: HIDEAKI NAKAYAMA 5995. Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-11pm, closed Sat & Sun.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 46 47 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo Shopping & Style

Hiro Workshop This small, charming Kichijoji workshop offers classes in making small leather goods and brass or silver jewellery to people of varying experience levels. There’s really no set formula here, and the friendly owner will help you craft anything you’re itching to make. If you’re just visiting, you can choose from the Shopping ready-made items or have the owner customise something for you on the spot. Cool brass bracelets perfect for stacking and layering are available, as well as a variety of rings, like one made from a brass nail. Once customised to fit, items can be personalised with your name or a special message. You’ll also find a Hiro Workshop pop-up at Inokashira Park’s Art Market every weekend, where & Style you can get jewellery customised there and then. à#116 Musashino Country Heights, 2-18-15 Kichijoji Motomachi, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 080 6673 1966. fb.com/hiro.workshop. 1pm-8pm, closed Mon. Call or DM on Facebook to reserve a spot, or drop-in during opening hours. Bracelet workshops take at least 90 mins, with brass starting at ¥4,500 and silver at ¥8,000. Workshops for leather tote bags require two sessions and start at ¥6,000.

Ochanomizu Origami Kaikan Whether it’s cranes, butterflies or something far more original, origami – traditional Japanese paper folding – has been practiced for centuries, and this is the country’s premier origami centre. You could do it yourself using the instructional books available for purchase, and selected origami paper packages in store come with instructions in English. Or, better still, sign up for a workshop (available in Japanese or English) and learn how to create all sorts of origami designs from the in-house experts. The classes vary with the seasons, so in winter you might create Hinamatsuri dolls in time for the March festival, or you might learn how to make more practical items like origami jewellery or a year-round Meet your maker favourite, the crane. On the second floor there’s a small gallery featuring some amazing paper creations, while on the fourth floor you’ll find a Want a more engaging shopping session? For a hands-on studio dedicated to making washi paper. retail experience, try out the fun workshops available at à1-7-14 Yushima, Bunkyo ( Station). 03 3811 4025. origamikaikan.co.jp. 9.30am-6pm, closed Sun & hols. Check website for the monthly workshops and details on how to sign up. TANIGAWA KEISUKE these speciality stores across Tokyo. By Kaila Imada KISA TOYOSHIMA

Inkstand by Kakimori At this cheerful ink shop, you can customise your very own colour blend to use with fountain and ballpoint pens. The process is simple: at the self-order workshop (reservations necessary via website) you choose from a few basic colours, play around with the ratios until you get your perfect mix, KISA TOYOSHIMA and then submit your order at the shop. Art Atelier du Travail Nakameguro After about 40 minutes, your ink set will be Marron Papier Ever dreamed of making your own pair of shoes? ready, including a receipt card with all your Flowers, flowers and more flowers. South KISA TOYOSHIMA At this charmingly ramshackle Nakameguro colour information in case you want to order the Korean import Marron Papier, whose original Ozu Washi store, you can become a cobbler for a day and same mix again. If you need assistance, you can store is in Seoul, is a flower shop-meets-fashion At this longstanding store and cultural centre, you can discover custom-make your own pair of leather sandals arrange for a staff member to help you customise boutique where you can stock up on all sorts of the beauty of Japanese washi paper – and try making it yourself. or shoes with the help of the shop’s artisans. your colour (no reservation necessary). While seasonal blooms, clothing and jewellery. This The first floor houses a shop where you can stock up on paper and Run by a friendly husband-and-wife duo, you’re waiting for your ink, take a walk over to welcoming store also host frequent workshops calligraphy goods, and the Washi Experience Studio, where you this homely shop sells ready-made leather Inkstand’s sister shop Kakimori, where you can where you can learn to craft everything from can learn how to make washi paper at its frequent workshops. goods like wallets and phone cases, although stock up on stationery goods to showcase your pretty floral crowns to bouquets. They’ve The second floor gallery space hosts weekly exhibitions and the leather workshops are the highlight. The snazzy new colours. even got fashion styling services and beauty guest washi craftsmen from around Japan, plus the Ozu Culture leather is sourced from Tochigi prefecture, à4-20-12 Kuramae, Taito (Kuramae Station). 050 1744 8547. workshops if the latest Korean beauty trends School, where serious students can sign up for a variety of and you’ll need to set aside around six hours to inkstand.jp. 11am-7pm, closed Mon. From ¥2,700 per bottle. float your boat. Even if you don’t feel like getting classes. Finally, the third floor houses the informative Ozu complete your pair of shoes (classes usually run stuck in, the space is still worth a visit for its History Museum, which details the many types of washi from from 10am to 5pm). If your wardrobe is already totally Instagrammable interior where rustic various Japanese regions. Information is available in English overflowing with footwear, you can opt to furniture is accented with colourful and you can touch and feel the different types of paper. The make a leather handbag instead. Just visit their blooms and a well-curated selection of washi-making workshop takes an hour, and you can bring your website to select the item you’d like to make and clothing from Korea is artfully presented. paper home with you on the same day. you’ll be crafting your very own accessory in no à#201 Nishihara Bldg, 3-3-3 Nishihara, Shibuya (Yoyogi-Uehara àOzu Honkan Bldg, 3-6-2 Nihonbashihoncho, Chuo (Mitsukoshimae, Shin-Nihombashi, time. Station). 03 6407 8133. fb.com/marronpapiertokyo. 10am-8pm, Kodemmacho stations). 03 3662 1184. ozuwashi.net/en. 10am-6pm, closed Sun & hols. à3-4-6 Nakameguro, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). 03 6886 daily. For reservations, email [email protected], Various workshops available. Washi-making classes ¥500 for one A4 sheet of paper; private 4396. artatelierdutravail.wixsite.com. 10am-6pm, closed Tue. Shoe or DM via Line (@marronpapierjapan) or Instagram lessons also available at ¥3,500 each. Workshop time and reservations can be made on workshops from ¥18,360. For reservations, DM them on Instagram (@marronpapier_jp). ozuwashi.net/en/workshop.html, or email [email protected]. Drop-ins possible depending (@art_atelier_du_travail) or email [email protected]. on availability.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 48 49 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo HOGUREST This cosy relaxation station is conveniently Things located in Ueno and its uniquely-designed ashiyu is a great place to drop by after exploring the nearby museums. The seats are arranged around a circular foot tub, creating one of the most spa-like atmospheres on this list. to Do A 30-minute foot bath plus a drink will only set you back ¥800. For a healthier option, go for the fermented herbal tea, which comes in three variants: detox, anti-aging and weight-loss. You can even add on an organic snack such as popcorn or gelato (from ¥450). While your feet are resting in the hot water, Hogurest also provides five- and ten-minute long shoulder and neck massages (from ¥540). If you have a bit more time on your hands, go on and treat yourself to one of the body and facial treatments on the menu. Foot loose à T&T Okachimachi Bldg 3F, 4-8-5 Taito, Taito (Naka-Okachimachi Coffee, tea or... a foot bath? You can get Station). 03 6803 2971. hogurest.com. Mon-Sat, 10.30am-10pm (foot bath 10.30am-9pm), Sun 10.30am-8pm. them all at these unconventional cafés around town, says Tabea Greuner

THE JAPANESE LOVE their onsen (hot spring) baths and resorts to relax and relieve stress, but if you’re looking for a quicker way to reboot your energy levels, dip your tired feet in a so-called ashiyu, or foot bath. Always keen to provide convenience, our bustling capital offers a variety of places that combine an ashiyu with a café. The results are a lifesaver, especially after a long day of sightseeing. These cafés will soothe your tired feet and help put a spring back in your step, all while you’re nursing a cup of tea or snacking on a piece of cake. Bliss.

YOKOHAMA HAKURANKAN – GARDEN TERRACE CAFÉ Yokohama’s Chinatown is a popular tourist attraction, but within all this hustle and bustle there hides a little green oasis equipped with a relaxing foot bath area. Head up to the third floor of Yokohama Hakurankan and grab a seat YU SELECT at Garden Terrace Café’s peaceful open terrace, fitted with a red pavilion and Yu Select is known for its ashiyu with a twist. Chinese lanterns. Sip on a tapioca milk tea or one of the many organic brews Instead of a tub, the café in Tokyo’s Ota ward on offer before heading over to the ashiyu corner of the terrace. The use of the uses its original ‘foot bath boots’ called Onpon. foot bath is free, and you can get a small towel for only ¥100 at the café counter. The concept is simple: take a seat on the sofa and Once you’re all rested, continue your adventure on the building’s second insert your feet into the ashiyu boots next to you. floor, the Baby-Star Land, where you can explore the manufacturing process Equipped with removable plastic inserts, which of Japan’s famous snack, Baby-Star Ramen. hold the water, this knee-high footwear is made KISA TOYOSHIMA à 3F, 145 Yamashitacho, Naka, Yokohama, Kanagawa (Motomachi-Chukagai Station). 045 640 0081. hakurankan.jp. from a soft quilted fabric which encloses layers 10.30am-5.30pm, Sat, Sun & hols 10.30am-6.30pm. MOMINOKI HOUSE DOGENZAKA TAKAOSAN FUMOTOYA of aluminum foil, keeping the water warm for a Due to its convenient location in central Shibuya Due to its easy access from Shinjuku Station, long time. and the fact it is open until 5am, Mominoki Mt Takao is one of the most popular green Your 20-minute ‘private’ foot bath comes HOGUSHIYA HONPO RIRAKU House is popular with the post-party crowd. With spaces in Tokyo. After exploring the trails, with a drink of your choice and costs either More of a relaxation/massage centre than a dedicated foot bath café, a comfortable interior that fuses Chinese and take a rest at Takaosan Fumotoya, an Italian ¥700 or ¥800, depending on the type of foot Hogushiya Honpo Riraku has several branches around Tokyo. The flagship Japanese design elements, the venue focuses on restaurant at the foot of the mountain. Here bath additives you opt for. Ten different kinds salon is located at Shinjuku’s Yasukuni-dori avenue, close to the bustling massage treatments using the healing practices you can not only indulge yourself in creamy are available, with options catering especially nightlife district Kabukicho. Thanks to its late opening hours, you can get a derived from Indian Ayurveda traditions. pasta dishes and Naples-style pizzas but to those with tired feet, who are extremely multitude of massages, including Thai, foot, full body and Samran (using oil The ashiyu is installed under the seats along a also make use of the foot bath located on the sensitive to the cold, simply want to relax, or and hot towels), plus facial treatments, right before your big night out. large window which offers views of the bustling restaurant’s terrace. wish for flawless skin. Grab one of the seats along the large glass windows and dip your feet area below. ¥1,080 brings you a 45-minute The use of the foot bath is free as long as you Guests with a sweet tooth can also upgrade into the ashiyu tub while gazing out over Shinjuku’s mesmerising neon foot bath, an Ayurveda herbal tea and a quick purchase something from the restaurant. Those their experience to the cake set for ¥1,200, streetscape. Hogushiya Honpo Riraku’s foot bath sessions last a long 70 shoulder massage. For an additional ¥500, you who would like to enjoy the ashiyu only are asked which gets you a chocolate cupcake, a piece of minutes – and you’ll be served all-you-can-drink corn silk tea, rooibos tea can also get a piece of pound cake or to pay ¥200 in advance – don’t forget to bring cheesecake or fluffy chiffon cake. If you enjoy or hojicha (roasted green tea), for ¥1,200. An additional ¥600 will see a ten- banana pudding to munch on. Who says Tokyo along a small towel. the session, you can even purchase a pair of Yu minute shoulder or foot massage added for full relaxation. is expensive? à 2241 Takaomachi, Hachioji (Takaosanguchi Station). 042 667 7568. Select’s special boots to recreate the experience à Dai 22 Higashi Bldg 3F, 1-5-4 Kabukicho, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 6233 7748. hogushiyahonpo-riraku.jp/ à Dogenzaka Kratos Bldg 8F, 2-28-3 Dogenzaka, Shibuya (Shibuya mount-takao.com/fumotoya. 11am-5.30pm (last orders 4.45pm), Sat & back home. store-shinjuku. 11am-11pm daily. Reservations essential; must call to cancel appointment. Prices as of Mar 2019. Station). 03 5456 5546. mominokihouse.jp/dogenzaka.html. 11am-5am, Sun 10am-6.30pm (5.45pm). The ashiyu can be used for 30 min during à 1F, 3-7-12 Shimomaruko, Ota (Shimomaruko Station). 03 6886 4826. Sun 11am-12midnight. weekdays and for 20 min on Sat, Sun & hols. yu-select.com. 1pm-7pm, closed Mon, Tue & hols.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 50 51 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo Things to Do Things to Do

TIME OUT LOVES Top family- friendly museums Our favourite places for educational fun for the young and old alike. By Tabea Greuner

THE RAILWAY MUSEUM exhibits, children and parents alike are able to 1. Located about 45 minutes away from understand a police officer’s work. Tokyo, the Railway Museum features 36 real- à3-5-1 Kyobashi, Chuo (Kyobashi Station). 03 3581 4321. tinyurl. life train cars – most of which you can walk into com/TOTPoliceMuseum. 9.30am-5pm, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is – which span over 140 years of railway history. hols). FREE entry. Little ones will have a field day at the park next to the Kids Plaza, where they can test-drive NATIONAL MUSEUM OF NATURE several miniature trains along a 300m-long 4. AND SCIENCE track (¥200; numbered tickets will be handed It’s easy to spend an entire day at the National out in front of the attraction from 10am). Those Museum of Nature and Science in . aged six and above, including adults, can go for Start your adventure at the ‘Japan Gallery’, the more immersive experience by taking on which focuses on the country’s formation, its the various train (and shinkansen) simulators indigenous flora and fauna and the island’s on the museum’s second floor. first inhabitants. The ‘Global Gallery’, à3-47 Onaricho, Omiya, Saitama (Tetsudo Hakubutsukan Station). meanwhile, concerns itself with everything 048 651 0088. tinyurl.com/TOTRailwayMuseum. 10am-6pm (last from science and astronomy to the evolution entry 5.30pm), closed Tue. ¥1,300, primary, junior high and high of life dating back more than four billion years school students ¥600, children aged three and older ¥300; additional – expect to ogle at fossils of extinct species fees apply for some of the attractions. and life-size dinosaur skeletons. You can also trace the progress of modern technology TOKYO TOY MUSEUM by studying the many Japanese inventions 2. The Tokyo Toy Museum exhibits not just developed since the Edo period (1603-1868). Japanese toys but those from across the world. à7-20 Ueno Koen, Taito (). 03 5777 8600. tinyurl. Infants up to the age of two can explore the first com/TOTMuseumNatureScience. 9am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm), Fri floor, which boasts a crawl tunnel and a range & Sat 9am-8pm (last entry 7.30pm), closed Mon. ¥620, FREE for high of wooden toys. The second floor is home to the school students and younger. Wood Toy Forest, where kids can frolic inside a pit filled with 20,000 wooden balls while FIRE MUSEUM taking in the calming aroma of cypress. The 5. Run by the Tokyo Fire Department, third floor displays toys related to science, as this free museum is dedicated to firefighting well as a large number of traditional Japanese and disaster prevention in Japan. While the toys. There are daily workshops too, which are basement houses some of the most stunning open to children over three. vintage fire trucks in Japan’s history, kids will àWithin Hiroba, 4-20 Yotsuya, Shinjuku (Yotsuya-Sanchome likely prefer exploring the third floor. Here the atrium, fitted with 70,362 OLED panels and Station). 03 5367 9601. tinyurl.com/TOTToyMuseum. 10am-4pm they can dress up as little firefighters, explore alternating between showing global weather (last entry 3.30pm), closed Thu. ¥800, primary school students & the cockpit of a fire truck and participate in a patterns, human migration movements and younger ¥500, parent & child ¥1,200, FREE for infants under 6mths. virtual rescue mission while being seated in more. However, many people come here to a helicopter. After exploring a large diorama watch the performance of Honda’s famous POLICE MUSEUM outfitted with lights, sounds and videos humanoid robot ASIMO (from 11am, 1pm, 3. The Police Museum stretches across six showing an emergency fire demonstration, 2pm, 4pm) or talk to the lifelike android floors, informing visitors about the history children can practice their skills in Otonaroid. In the space and astronomy and the work of the Tokyo Metropolitan Police extinguishing a fire in the simulation corner. corner, you can step inside a model of the Department. Kids will find this an adventurous à3-10 Yotsuya, Shinjuku (Yotsuya-Sanchome Station). 03 3353 International Space Station living quarters. place to visit as they get to change into (mini) 9119. tfd.metro.tokyo.jp/ts/museum.html. 9.30am-5pm, closed When you’re done, take a breather in the 121- police uniforms upon arrival and pose beside Mon. FREE entry. seat spherical Dome Theater ‘Gaia’, which a real patrol car, sit on an authentic Honda shows 3D moving images of our universe based police motorcycle with flashing lights, or in the MIRAIKAN – THE NATIONAL MUSEUM on scientific data (¥300, children aged 18 and cockpit of a Harukaze helicopter. 6. OF EMERGING SCIENCE AND younger ¥100; make your reservations online On the second and third floors, kids can INNOVATION or at the ticket counter at arrival). learn about traffic safety in a cycling simulator Mirakan examines our daily lives through a à2-3-6 Aomi, Koto (Telecom Center Station). 03 3570 9151. tinyurl. and tips on crime prevention through a scientific lens. At its entrance is the impressive com/TOTMiraikan. 10am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm), closed Tue.

diorama. Through the many interactive 6.5-metre Geo-Cosmos globe hanging from ¥620, children aged 18 and younger ¥210. ILLUSTRATIONS BY MISO OKADA

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 52 53 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo Art & Studio 35 Minutes

short walk north of central Nakano. Sake-san (rather brilliantly for Tokyo Photographic Art Museum a bar owner, his surname uses Culture Mitsubado Camera the same Chinese character as Japan’s most famous alcoholic MITSUBADO CAMERA drink) initially intended to simply The Mitsubado Camera team hang his own work on the walls, are irrepressible evangelists for but laying on drinks for visiting analogue photo culture, and chose friends led to the space evolving to locate their film camera-only into a compact but fully-fledged DOPPIETTA-TOKYO shop in downtown Nippori for the gallery complete with a counter This specialist in used digital camera bodies from Leica plays wealth of photo opportunities this bar. With its focus on photography, up the luxury cachet of the esteemed German brand by offering historic district provides. Staff 35 Minutes hosts exhibitions from its wares in an appointment-only space (English-language lead regular photo walks around emerging local photographers Life through reservations possible). Located near Yoyogi-Uehara Station, the neighbourhood, while film to influential filmmaker- the shop resembles a spruce, well-appointed apartment. photography newbies are invited photographers like Jonas Mekas. Camera bodies and classic, decades-old lenses are displayed to rent one of the shop’s cameras At the bar, sake, spirits and beer inside glass cases once used in a patisserie. While steep prices for a trial run. The store itself, are complemented by simple a lens make these items more aspirational than practical, leather complete with a small gallery, has Japanese food such as oden. straps and other accessories, crafted by artisans down in old-school camera shop charm in à 5-47-8 Kamitakada, Nakano (Araiyakushimae Want to find some photographic inspiration while you’re Yokohama, are much more accessibly priced. spades. Used cameras range from Station). 35fn.com. 6pm-11pm, closed Sun, Mon Zen Foto Gallery in Tokyo? Put these exhibition spaces plus a speciality àRoyal Terrace 501, 1-32-5 Uehara, Shibuya (Yoyogi-Uehara Station). 03 5790 9389. doppietta- simple point-and-shoot models & Tue. tokyo.jp. By appointment only, between 2pm-6.30pm, closed Wed & Thu. costing a few thousand yen, bookshop and darkroom on your list. By Darren Gore through to high-end Hasselblads SO BOOKS to access. You’ll also find a photo- run by veteran photographer which could set you back around One of the city’s best-stocked oriented branch of the specialist Katsuo Hanzawa and his wife YOU DON’T NEED to have seen ‘Lost in Translation’ to know that the lens loves ¥100,000. Mitsubado will also take photography bookshops, So art bookshop NADiff, and a café Mari. The pair opened the space Tokyo. But there’s so much more to the city’s photographic side than neon signs care of your developing, printing Books is nestled on a quiet street in from Daikanyama’s Maison Ichi. last year, in response to Japan’s and skyscrapers. The capital’s endlessly stimulating visual landscape has helped and film camera repair needs. Yoyogi Hachiman, a few minutes’ àYebisu Garden Place, 1-13-3 Mita, Meguro (Ebisu lack of a photographic print- generate one of the world’s most vibrant photography scenes, with enthusiasts à 5-32-6 Higashi-Nippori, Arakawa (Nippori Station). walk west of Yoyogi Park. Deeply Station). 03 3280 0099. topmuseum.jp. Tue, Wed, buying culture (despite a wealth out shooting the streets every weekend, and a host of galleries and bookshops 03 6884 4943. mitsubado.com. 11am-7pm, closed knowledgeable owner Ikuo Sat, Sun 10am-6pm, Thu, Fri 10am-8pm, closed Mon of photo galleries), and hope that a dedicated to the artform. While this city’s love affair with all things photographic Wed & Thu. Ogasawara keeps his compact, (Tue if Mon is hols). customer’s first tentative purchase long predates social media, you can see social media’s influence in recent years, sleekly designed store stocked at Zakura will help sow the seeds including bars and stores that embrace photography as the lifestyle choice of the PAPER POOL with sought-after titles from both TOTEM POLE PHOTO GALLERY of a collector mentality, especially hip and Insta-famous. Here are ten must-see spots, some long established, others Renewed interest in film Japanese and Western names. This Yotsuya gallery was founded among the Instagram generation. still under the radar. photography, particularly among Tokyo-based photographers are in 2008 by award-winning To this end, prints from a diverse millennials, is prompting new always popping in, and the shop is photographer Shinya Arimoto, roster of photographers are priced MEGUTAMA rental darkrooms to spring up also a routine stop-off for foreign foremost among the many from about ¥6,000. When you’re one of the nation’s across Tokyo. This monochrome- artists when they’re in town. Such snappers documenting Tokyo à14-5-103 Sakuragaokacho, Shibuya (Shibuya foremost photography critics and dedicated location in Yutenji is connections enable Ogasawara street life. It primarily showcases Station). 03 6427 0369. zakura.tokyo. 1pm-7pm, historians, with a career going back our favourite for the fact that it to secure self-published tomes the work of up-and-coming closed Sun & Mon. three decades, storing the photo is attached to a stylish gallery (many of which are sure to become photographers: mostly Japanese, books you inevitably accumulate is and café-bar. Rental of the well- future collectibles) direct from the but occasionally from elsewhere ZEN FOTO GALLERY going to present a problem. Kotaro equipped darkroom costs ¥400 photographers themselves. in Asia and as far afield as the This compact Roppongi Iizawa’s altruistic solution was to open per half-hour plus a ¥500 fee for à1-47-5 Uehara, Shibuya (Yoyogi-Koen Station). US. Highlights include frequent exhibition space wields an this unique space in Ebisu, where using the supplied chemicals; 03 6416 8299. sobooks.jp. 1pm-7pm, closed Sun shows by Arimoto himself, as influence on the Japanese photo he welcomes the public to come and paper should be purchased & Mon. well as from John Sypal, who art scene that belies its size. Zen browse around 5,000 titles from his elsewhere. Paper Pool’s similarly chronicles Japanese photo culture Foto Gallery, together with its vast collection, while enjoying drinks well-stocked café-bar offers TOKYO PHOTOGRAPHIC ART on his popular @tokyocamerastyle publishing imprint of the same and home-cooked seasonal dishes. beer, wine and simple cocktails, MUSEUM Instagram feed. While you’re there, name, maintains a dual focus Wooden shelves spanning two entire together with small dishes costing The TOP Museum, as it’s also check out the small selection of upon emerging photographers facing walls are connected by beams around ¥1,000 each. known, is the city’s largest self-published books from Totem from Japan and wider Asia, and that run across the ceiling, giving the àTachibana Bldg 2F, 2-16-10 Yutenji, Meguro museum dedicated to Pole-affiliated photographers. work from the archives of some impression of sitting within a giant (Yutenji Station). 03 3713 2378. paperpool.wixsite. photography. Across four floors, a à1F, 4-22 Yotsuya, Shinjuku (Yotsuya-Sanchome legendary veterans. Standouts bookcase. Megutama’s collection com/paperpool. Opening hours vary, check fb.com/ consistently inspiring programme Station). 03 3341 9341. tppg.jp. 12noon-7pm, in the former camp include Eiji stretches back to the dawn of paperpool2014 for details and darkroom reservations. of solo and group shows, featuring closed Mon. Ohashi’s stunning images of photography, and is constantly being both Japanese and international vending machines in desolate added to as important new works are STUDIO 35 MINUTES photographers, looks back at the ZAKURA PHOTO CONCEPT SHOP snowscapes. Zen has also published. When photographer Kota Sake art form’s established masters, Located south of Shibuya Station, exhibited and published the works à1F, 3-2-7 Higashi, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). 03 6805 took possession of a closed- and introduces the work of Zakura aims to make purchasing of Japan’s most internationally 1838. megutama.com. Tue-Fri 11.30am-11pm (last orders down photo-developing shop, emerging talents. The museum original photographic art as famous and sexually provocative 10pm), Sat, Sun & hols 12noon-10pm (9pm), closed Mon he retained the original sign also has room for moving images, simple as picking a graphic T-shirt photographer, Nobuyoshi Araki. (Tue if Mon is hols). advertising the speed of its with state-of-the-art screening off the racks. What looks like a àPiramide Bldg 2F, 6-6-9 Roppongi, Minato service, thus giving a name to this facilities, plus an extensive book regular gallery is actually a self- (Roppongi Station). 03 6804 1708. zen-foto.jp. combined ‘night gallery’ and bar, a and magazine library that is free described ‘photo concept shop’ 12noon-7pm, closed Sun, Mon & hols.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 54 55 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo Art & Culture Art & Culture

embedded with social criticism. To celebrate its 30th anniversary, ESSENTIAL His rebellious nature came at it’s presenting over 300 chosen a price as he was oppressed by works from its collection. Selected the government during World Japanese artists have been invited EXHIBITIONS War II. After the war, Fukuzawa to create some unique pieces continued to produce large inspired by their encounters with paintings of people from a the collection to convey the diverse socio-critical perspective, ways one can view and interact

staying faithful to the surrealist DEITIES IN TO-JI’S KODO LECTURE HALL. IMAGE MAY DIFFER FROM ACTUAL EXHIBITION with art. traditions. This exhibition Tang-dynasty China to study the àYokohama Museum of Art, Apr 13-Jun 23. New focuses on the relationship teachings of Esoteric Buddhism. 3-4-1 Minatomirai, Nishi, Yokohama. 045 221 between art and society, with 100 Upon returning to Japan in 823, 0300. 10am-6pm (last entry 5.30pm), Fri-Sat works representing Fukuzawa’s Kukai was granted control of 10am-8.30pm (8pm), closed Thu (except May 2, 7). views of a post-war society. To-ji by , turning shows à The National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo, until the temple into a focal point of May 26. 3-1 Kitanomaru-koen, Chiyoda. 03 5777 Shingon Esoteric Buddhism. This 8600. Tue-Thu, Sun 10am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm), exhibition will present artefacts Fri-Sat 10am-8pm (7.30pm), closed Mon (except handed down at To-ji, with a to see GUSTAV KLIMT BEETHOVEN FRIEZE (COPY IN ORIGINAL SIZE), 1984 (ORIGINAL:1901–02). BELVEDERE, VIENNA. © BELVEDERE, VIENNA.Mar PHOTO: JOHANNES STOLL 25, Apr 1, 29 & May 6) & May 7. focus on the numerous items one of Europe’s cultural and shape the beginning of Viennese associated with Kukai himself. intellectual hubs. This surge Modernism. Highlights include magnificent Art shows to see in of innovation in philosophy, Klimt’s depictions of women sculptures and paintings, as spring include To-ji literature, visual arts, in lavish gold and decorated well as works of calligraphy and Temple treasures, architecture and music in the motifs were often embedded in an decorative artworks of Esoteric Austrian capital became known allegory of sexuality and human Buddhism. 'THE GLEIZE BRIDGE OVER THE VIGUEIRAT 46.8X51.3CM, CANAL', OIL ON CANVAS, 1888, VINCENT VAN GOGH. ©POLA MUSEUM OF ARTFOREST OF RESONATING early Pre-Raphaelite as Viennese Modernism, a period psyche. Although his rebellious àTokyo National Museum, until Jun 2. 13-9 IMPRESSIONISM – LIGHT AND LAMPS – ONE STROKE, CHERRY paintings, Gustav in which artists sought new forms spirit frequently clashed with Ueno Park, Taito. 03 5777 8600. Tue-Thu, MEMORY BLOSSOMS Klimt and Viennese of expression while protesting Viennese society, he was the Sun 9.30am-5pm (last entry 4.30pm), Fri-Sat The 19th century Impressionism Undoubtedly one of teamLab against outdated views. Four most celebrated and sought-after 9.30am-9pm (8.30pm), closed Mon (except Apr 1, movement boasted some of the Borderless’s most popular Modernism. By Julie pioneers stood at the helm of portraitist by the local elites. 29, May 6) & May 7. most recognisable names in art exhibits, the immersive Forest Anne Sjaastad this movement: painters Gustav One hundred years after Klimt’s history, including Alfred Sisley, of Resonating Lamps will be Klimt and Egon Schiele, architect death, Tokyo Metropolitan Art Camille Pissarro, Edgar Degas and refreshed with a new seasonal Otto Wagner and artist Koloman Museum is hosting Japan’s first Claude Monet. In 1874, a group colour in time for spring’s cherry Moser, all of whom had a lasting comprehensive exhibition of of young artists put on a Paris blossoms. From now until the end impact on Vienna’s culture. this figurehead of Art Nouveau, exhibition that challenged the of April, the interactive Murano As 2019 marks the 150th with more than 25 paintings prevailing aesthetic conventions glass lamps will feature various anniversary of Japanese and on display. For a well-rounded in France. The group wanted to shades of pink, along with other VIENNA ON THE PATH TO Austrian diplomacy, The National experience, the museum is also start an art revolution. spring colours such as Golden MODERNISM Art Center, Tokyo is hosting a displaying Japanese artworks 'FINGERS', 2018, DEAN POOLE The subtle figurative Kerria, Kerria Sprouts, Blue Kerria, Around the turn of the 20th grand exhibition dedicated to reminiscent of Klimt’s style, SENSE OF HUMOR FREDERIC LEIGHTON, (CHERRIES)’, CHILD AND ‘MOTHER C. 1864-65. © BLACKBURN MUSEUM & ART GALLERY brushstrokes, dynamic sense Kerria Blossoms and Peach. If you century, Vienna emerged as Viennese Modernism. Over as well as a re-creation of the According to this exhibition’s PARABOLA OF PRE- of movement and mesmerising missed these limited-time colours, 400 works by major fin de siècle exhibits at Vienna’s Secession polymath director Katsumi RAPHAELITISM play with light and shadow the expansive digital museum is artists like Klimt, Schiele, Oskar Building using elaborate Asaba, who is a table tennis pro In the mid-19th century, English that we admire today weren’t still worth your time. What’s more, Kokoschka, Otto Wagner and reproductions of the wall and a master calligrapher as painting found itself in a creative always beloved. In fact, 'THE MUSEUM OF THE KING (LE MUSÉE DU 1966, ROI)', RENE MAGRITTE. YOKOHAMA MUSEUM OF ART it’s open until 9pm on Saturdays, Adolf Loos will be on display. paintings. well as an art director, humour impasse, where strict academic the Impressionists’ art was of the largest art institutions Sundays and holidays, meaning Other exhibition highlights àTokyo Metropolitan Art Museum, Apr 23-Jul 10. is one of the fundamental conventions constricted considered radical at the time, in the country. The museum you can roam through the include masterpieces from the 8-36 Ueno Park, Taito. 9.30am-5.30pm (last entry elements of communication. By artistic productivity. Three and it would take years before possesses more than 12,000 interactive, large-scale works at a second half of the 18th century 5pm), Fri 9.30am-8pm (7.30pm), closed May 7, 20, observing the various forms and young students from the Royal their iconoclastic styles were modern and contemporary leisurely pace. and the Biedermeier period 27, Jun 3, 17 & Jul 1. expressions of humour over the Academy – William Holman accepted by the art establishment. artworks including paintings, à1-3-8 Aomi, Koto. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm (last entry (1814-1848). years, and how it surrounds us Hunt (1827-1910), John Everett The Pola Museum of Art, together sculptures, decorative arts, 6pm), Sat, Sun & hols, 10am-9pm (8pm), closed àThe National Art Center, Tokyo, Apr 24-Aug 5. in our daily lives, Asaba has put Millais (1829-1896) and Dante with the Hiroshima Museum of drawings, photography, video 2nd & 4th Tue of the month. Adults (over 15) ¥3,200, Special Exhibition Gallery 1E, 7-22-2 Roppongi, together documents and objects Gabriel Rossetti (1828-1882) – Art, explores the development and crafts. 4-14 year-olds ¥1,000. Minato. 03 5777 8600 (Hello Dial). 10am-6pm that both inspire him and tickle responded to such limitations of Impressionist paintings (last entry 5.30pm), Fri-Sat 10am-8pm (7.30pm), his funny bones, along with by founding the Pre-Raphaelite through various themes such closed Tue (except Apr 30). works by creators who share his Brotherhood, which sought as the importance of travel and playfully idiosyncratic point to produce works that were memory for these painters, GUSTAV KLIMT: VIENNA – of view. considered to be genuine and their modern gaze on cities, and JAPAN 1900 à21_21 Design Sight, until Jun 30. Midtown free. Inspired by the theories of waterscapes. Seventy-three Most people know Gustav Klimt Garden, Tokyo Midtown, 9-7-6 Akasaka, Minato. 03 John Ruskin, who urged artists masterpieces from the museums’

(1862-1918), arguably Austria’s 1931,'AGITATOR', FUKUZAWA ICHIRO. © FUKUZAWA FOUNDATION MEMORIAL ICHIRO 3475 2121. Mon, Wed-Sun, 10am-7pm (last entry to ‘go to nature’, the artists’ collections have been selected to most famous painter, as the LAUGH OFF THIS HOPELESS 6.30pm), closed Tue, installation periods. work was colourful and imbued showcase the pleasures of French artist of ‘The Kiss’ (1907), but WORLD: FUKUZAWA ICHIRO with symbolism and literary Impressionism. his oeuvres offer much more. One of Japan’s most famous NATIONAL TREASURES OF references. This exhibition àPola Museum of Art, until Jul 28. 1285 Klimt was raised in a cultural era surrealist artists, Ichiro Fukuzawa TO-JI TEMPLE: KUKAI AND THE dedicated to the Pre-Raphaelites Kozukayama, Sengokuhara, Hakone-machi, informed by classical traditions, (1898-1992) studied art in SCULPTURE MANDALA brings together over 150 works Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa. 9am-5pm (last but in the 1890s he turned away Paris for nearly a decade at the The To-ji Temple was founded in different media, including entry 4.30pm) daily. from the norms of historicism and height of the French avant garde by Emperor Kanmu in 794, painting, sculpture, photography aesthetical conventions in search movement. Upon returning to following the relocation of the and the applied arts. THE 30TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE of modernity. His transition to Japan, the Gunma-born artist capital to Kyoto, and it became àMitsubishi Ichigokan Museum, Tokyo, until Jun YOKOHAMA MUSEUM OF ART. Art Nouveau led to the creation introduced his peers to the a symbol of divine protection. 9. 2-6-2 Marunouchi, Chiyoda. 10am-6pm (last MEET THE COLLECTION of the Vienna Secession, an art theories behind surrealism and Meanwhile, a Japanese priest entry 5.30pm), Fri & 2nd Wed 10am-9pm (8.30pm), Founded back in 1989, the

GUSTAV KLIMT, 'PORTRAIT OF EMILIE FLÖGE', 1902, OIL ON CANVAS, 178X80CM. WIEN MUSEUM, ©WIEN MUSEUM/FOTO PETER KAINZ movement which in turn helped produced a series of paintings called Kukai was travelling to closed Mon (except Apr 29, May 6, 27, Jun 3). Yokohama Museum of Art is one

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 56 57 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo in the popularisation of several be able to reach the mountain EDM genres including J-pop, any longer. My mission is to synthpop and techno. keep that connection alive, so OLD IS GOLD Now aged 71, Hosono is back having my music reach people in the international spotlight in other countries, be it the US Looking to deep-dive into Japanese thanks to American label Light or somewhere else, makes me In The Attic, which last year happy. music history? These record stores have re-released five of his Had I gone on a tour of the US a the recommendations you need. Music from the ’70s and ’80s. The decade ago, I think the audience response to these has been would have been only techno remarkable, with Hosono now fans of the YMO generation. scheduled to play gigs in both They might have booed me had New York and Los Angeles in May music you won’t hear on the I played the stuff I’m making and June this year. radio. now, but now I think times have While Hosono started out changed. by exploring American music What is the concept behind history through the window your new album ‘Hochono You’ve written that life is of rock, he later took on both House’? neither a straight line nor a Disk Ekoda internationally focused techno- First of all, I decided that I was circle, but an upward spiral. I pop and domestic pop, and going to create it all on my own, think you can say the same for ‘Because I Love You even dabbled in ambient in the and then just started out without ‘Hochono House’. (The Post Man Song)’, 1991 very early days of that genre. much to go with. I would probably Well, I’m actually just wandering Jupiter Project feat. Melodie Looking back at the history of have finished it sooner and with all over the place. But you can’t Produced by ‘grand beat’ great Monchi Tanaka, Japanese popular music from less effort if I had been working just draw a line from one point this album blows away the less inviting qualities the late ’60s until today, Haruomi with my usual band members, to the other and follow it. Life of the electronic approach by applying it liberally Hosono shows up as a permanent but I didn’t want to take the easy sometimes turns you upside to classics of pop. The ’80s are being eagerly presence, so perhaps it’s no way out. It was really hard. down. Maybe I’ll turn into a baby reevaluated right now, so you’ll want to get on wonder that his eclectic career next, like Benjamin Button… board before beats like these become the and innovative spirit are now Why were you so adamant next big old-new thing. capturing the attention of a truly about going at it alone? Have you been listening to any àcoconutsdisk.com/ekoda global audience. Listening to my old demo tapes, I new music lately? March 6, the day we sat down noticed that I was playing alone, I didn’t for about 10 years, but with Hosono for this interview, instead of doing sessions with I have checked out some new marked the release of ‘Hochono anyone else to decide on this or stuff recently. I get curious about House’ – a reimagination of that . I wanted to go people’s sounds all of a sudden – his 1973 debut album ‘Hosono back to that way of doing things. about once every 10 years. I tried House’. About to reach yet to be objective when making this another generation of open- You always approach music- album, and compared various minded listeners, the artist making from two different sounds to each other to establish himself still hasn’t quite wrapped perspectives: one from the standards. I didn’t do that for Disk Union Showa Kayo-kan his head around the attention. point of view of a musician and my previous album, so I guess another from the listener’s. this marks a turning point. As ‘Bi no Tandeki’ Were you aware that people I think that has had an impact for names, I like Keepon – he’s a Miharu Koshi from other parts of the world on other musicians around the 15- or 16-year-old kid. Olympic Another Hosono-produced gem from ¥EN, ‘Bi no Hosono are really interested in your world. athletes all feel young to me Tandeki’ came out in 1984 and combines a YMO- music now? If that’s true, I’m happy to hear it. now, and maybe that’s true of esque techno-pop sound with Miharu Koshi’s Not at all – I was a bit surprised Lately I’ve been making acoustic musicians too. mysterious voice. Many foreign customers have actually [when getting word boogie, and playing only old been asking for this one lately. about the planned re-release stuff on my radio show. Young Some of the lyrics on ‘Hochono àtinyurl.com/TOTduskk redux in 2018]. I just thought there people take a fresh approach to House’ differ from those on are people with quirky tastes those things, which are what I ‘Hosono House’. What has was an influential in America. But with Vampire have been wanting to do. The changed for you between the Weekend sampling ‘Hana ni music of the 20th century is such two albums? electronic band in the ’70s and ’80s. Today, its Mizu’, which is one of my old a mountain of treasures, but our Back then [in 1973] you could frontman is seen as a mentor instrumental pieces, and other path to those treasures has been still feel the Tokyo of old, but it by up-and-coming musicians around the world. things like that, I gradually cut off. Unless someone does was already disappearing. We By Masaaki Hara started to realise that there’s something about it, we may not used to lament that with Takashi international demand for [Matsumoto, Happy End’s my stuff. drummer and lyricist] and the General Record Store ‘The music of the others. But now, it’s all gone. I EVEN THOSE WHO ARE unfamiliar long before becoming part of Why do you think that is? have no emotional attachment ‘Esperanto’ with Haruomi Hosono have the legendary Yellow Magic I guess it’s because the internet 20th century is [to modern Tokyo]. Ryuichi Sakamoto probably heard his music Orchestra (YMO). has changed what information If Haruomi Hosono’s discography is being somewhere. It could have been To the uninitiated, YMO is a is available. YouTube is such an such a mountain What are you looking forward to rediscovered internationally, so is the back in a commercial or at a café, or Japanese electronic music outfit effective medium. I also think on your US tour? catalogue of his YMO bandmate Ryuichi perhaps sung by Bill Murray. formed in Tokyo back in 1978. that with the music industry of treasures’ I think America has also lost Sakamoto. Created upon the request of avant- That’s right: ‘Kaze wo Atsumete’, Together with his bandmates becoming more and more a great many things. I have a garde choreographer Molissa Fenley, this album the song Murray’s character Yukihiro Takahashi and Ryuichi establishment-like, people are longing for diners, so I’d like to is themed on ‘imaginary folk music’ and is still Bob Harris performed in ‘Lost in Sakamoto, Hosono is considered countering that by becoming ask the locals where to find a usually available at a reasonable price. Translation’, was composed by an influential and leading figure more sensitive and open to good old-school diner and go look àgeneralrecordstore.com Hosono for his band Happy End in the local electronic music music that doesn’t sound like for one. – the folk rock group he formed scene, known for their key roles everything else – the kind of

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 58 59 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo Music Music

Naru Ochanomizu is best known for its ‘ street’ – a long row of guitar shops jetting off Sometime from the JR station exit, selling every make Although two major train lines cross at Kichijoji and model on the market, used and new, and Station, making it super accessible to the every kind of accessory or equipment you centre of Tokyo, it’s far enough out that rent is could imagine. But smack right in the middle significantly lower than most places around the of this street is the basement jazz bar Naru. Yamanote line. As a result, Kichijoji is home to Like a lot of the joints on this list, Naru tons of little cafés, boutiques, small businesses has a long legacy. In fact, Naru is gearing up and, yes, plenty of live music. Some would to celebrate its 50th anniversary this year, estimate that Kichijoji has more jazz clubs per having opened its doors for the first time in capita than any other neighbourhood in Tokyo. 1969. The bar’s owner is a sax player himself, And any musician in Tokyo worth their salt has so you can be sure the place takes its music made an appearance at Sometime, arguably seriously, with either two or three 45-minute Kichijoji’s most famous basement jazz bar. jazz sets nearly every night. The music charge The stage at Sometime is set up at the centre of starts at ¥2,500, placing it about mid-level in the room, with the musicians facing one another terms of costliness. in a circle, and the audience members seated à 2-1 Kanda , Chiyoda (). 03 3291 all around them, with some sections depressed 2321. ocha-naru.com. 11.30am-12midnight daily. into the floor and others raised above, creating a very unusual viewing experience. These days, Sometime is no longer a neighbourhood dive but a rather famous spot in its own right. This means the prices have crept up in the last couple of decades, but the musical talent has flourished. Still, the prices are way cheaper than you’ll find in most places boasting similar quality – with most shows hovering around the ¥2,000 mark. à 1-11-31 Kichijoji Honcho, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 21 6336. sometime.co.jp/sometime. 11am-11pm daily (last orders 10.30pm). All that jazz Welcome to the jazz capital of Asia... Let Taryn Siegel guide you to the best bars and clubs in the city KEISUKE TANIGAWA KEISUKE

JAPAN HAS HAD A LONG LOVE AFFAIR with housing a grand piano and drum set. There’s a great choice. This venue is jazz – nearly as long as the genre’s existed, in also a ¥500 table charge (otoshi), which comes enormous, with a gorgeous fact, with the first jazz scenes emerging in the with all-you-can-eat nuts and dried fruit that dark wood interior sparkling early 1920s in Osaka and Kobe, just years after you can select from the giant mason jars lining under crystal chandeliers, the Original Dixieland Jazz Band recorded the bar. If you’re looking for cosy elegance and and a food quality to match Manhattan Pit Inn the first jazz record, ‘Livery Stable Blues’ in excellent music without breaking the bank, the décor. It’s also one of KISA TOYOSHIMA Now we’re not one to play favourites, but ask 1917. Today, it is Tokyo that hosts Japan’s most this is the place. the most renowned clubs any enthusiast in Tokyo where to find great thriving jazz scene. à B1F Gracie Mansion, 4-3 Sakaecho, Nerima (Ekoda Station). in Tokyo, so this is where you’ll find the big that’s celebrating its 25th anniversary in 2019. jazz and they’re almost sure to mention the Tokyo offers a few beautiful mega-clubs 03 3993 3400. salt-peanuts.music.coocan.jp. Mon-Fri 6pm-2am, name acts, including a lot of talents from Manhattan is definitely the tiniest bar on Pit Inn. This place has everything: the best which bring in some of the best talents, both Sat 6pm-12midnight, Sun 5.30pm-2am. abroad. this list. The space is so confined that the musicians from across Japan and around the domestic and international. But the real Of course, all of this decadence comes at stage is set up in front of the door, meaning world; nice, long sets; comfy seating; and a jazz scene is often found down snaking back TANIGAWA KEISUKE a price (reserved seats can go for ¥6,000 to you can’t enter after a set has already started great history. streets, up or down a winding staircase and Salt and Peanuts ¥9,000 depending on the show), but if you’re without bringing the whole performance to a The club celebrated its 50th anniversary in inside a hideaway joint where the whole bar While Salt and Peanuts is a bit of a trek from looking to treat yourself to great music and a grinding halt. Check the sign outside the door 2015 with much fanfare. Its continued success is operated by one devoted jazz fanatic. It’s central Tokyo, it is definitely worth the fine dinner, this is the perfect place. for set times – generally two a night. If the can be credited to its emphasis on music here where the local scene thrives, where a trip. Opened in 1981, the place started as a à Tokyo Bldg Tokia 2F, 2-7-3 Marunochi, Chiyoda (Tokyo, cramped interior seems a bit intimidating, above all else. All the seats in the spacious different mix of incredible jazz musicians can conventional bar but gradually jazz took hold. Nijubashimae stations). 03 3215 1555. cottonclubjapan.co.jp. never fear: the owner Yasutaka Mochizuki basement bar face the stage, with minimal usually be found jamming together any night Since it’s actually quite spacious for a jazz bar, Mon-Fri 5pm-11pm, Sat & Sun 4pm-10.30pm. (it’s a one-man operation) is immensely service and disruptions during the sets. of the week. you might be surprised to learn that it’s a one- friendly, as are all of the talented musicians Tickets are also quite reasonable compared We’ve selected some of the very best man operation. Manhattan he brings around. The vibes are homey, the to equally famous joints around town, with spots from across the spectrum – from bars The owner Hisashi Nakano, though not a For a real hole-in-the-wall jazz joint, you can’t music is great, and you can get a jazz history most evening shows posting a music charge so narrow you’ll have to squeeze around musician himself, is a fanatic jazz enthusiast get more authentic than this. Manhattan has lesson just by scanning all the postcards and of ¥3,000 to ¥4,000 (tickets in other top-shelf the bassist to get inside, to clubs the size of and collector who was dismayed to realise been around for over 30 years – one of the first photos papering the bar’s walls. clubs often approach ¥10,000), a bargain for concert halls where chandeliers hang above how expensive it can be to see high-quality Cotton Club jazz bars to appear in , kick-starting à Kiraku Bldg, 2-2-7 Asagaya-Kita, Suginami (). 03 such a memorable night. elegant table settings. Each spot offers a jazz in Tokyo – so he decided to take matters If you’re looking to go the elegant route with its now flourishing jazz scene. These days, 3336 7961. ateliermw.com/manhattan. Tue-Fri 7pm-12.30am, Sat à Accord Bldg, 2-12-4 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku-Sanchome passion for jazz that is palpable, and a music into his own hands. The music charge here is your jazz experience, with a full-course the neighbourhood has become such a jazz 7pm-5am, Sun 7pm-12.30am, closed Mon and 1st, 3rd, 5th Tue of Station). 03 3354 2024. pit-inn.com. 2pm-5pm (daytime show), quality that is totally immersive. ¥1,500, which is much less than most places dinner and excellent wine list, Cotton Club is hub that it hosts a massive festival every year the month. 7pm-close (evening show).

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 60 61 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo Nightlife KISA TOYOSHIMA

MARUKITA SHOP 2 Kaisendon (sashimi over rice) is probably still the single most popular meal in Tsukiji, and Marukita does these bowls

KISA TOYOSHIMA of seafood with panache. While it’s famed for serving them from 5am almost every day, a lesser-known fact is that the restaurant actually Tsukiji turns into an izakaya from 3pm. That means the menu, which in the morning only lists kaisendon and sushi, expands to include seasonal seafood appetisers, grilled and other booze-compatible eats, in addition to about a dozen types of sake. after dark But the kaisendon here is the major draw: while the popular ikura (salmon roe) and tuna with salmon options start from ¥1,000, we KISA TOYOSHIMA Since the famed seafood market recommend spending ¥2,500 for Marukita’s ‘-don’ – a left for , Tsukiji has gone TAKENO TSUKIJI ITADORI URAMISE luxurious bowl topped with a daily selection of 11 kinds of seafood. The The quintessential old-school Tokyo cafeteria, Most Tokyoites close out an evening exact contents vary by season, with typical choices including super-fresh from a place buzzing at sunrise Takeno has been keeping locals well-fed on cheap of drinking with a bowl of ramen, but in Tsukiji you’ll do shrimp, fatty tuna, salmon, scallops, salmon roe and uni (sea urchin). to a place that gets going after classics such as stewed fish, (pork cutlet over well to opt for udon instead. And not just any old bowl of à 4-13-18 Tsukiji, Chuo (Tsukiji Station). 03 3543 5228. tsukiji-marukita.com. 5am-10pm (last orders sunset, with a host of restaurants rice) and yakisoba (stir-fried noodles) for a good 80 years the thick wheat noodles: specifically, the curry udon from 9.30pm), closed in the evening on Mon (Tue if Mon is hols). now. Approximately the same number of dishes can also be Itadori Uramise. Served in a creamy but not too heavy and bars opening late into the spotted on its ‘menu’, which consists of hastily scribbled slips plastered curried soup made with bonito broth, the dish is available night, as Shiori Kotaki discovers all over the shop walls. While lunchtime is its busiest time, many people in regular (¥800) and half (¥520) sizes – opt for the latter also frequent Takeno for its small izakaya-style dishes, which make up the if you’re concerned about overdoing it. If not, consider THE BELOVED WHOLESALE FISH MARKET may have packed up majority of orders in the evenings. topping your bowl with a piece of shrimp (¥400). and moved to Toyosu, but Tsukiji, with its charming labyrinth For a seasonal speciality, you can’t go wrong with one of the sashimi à Diamond Residence Tsukiji 1F, 4-9-6 Tsukiji, Chuo (Tsukiji Station). 03 5565 4001. of market stalls, restaurants and shops, is still very much worth platters – the one with three kinds of fresh fish (two whitefish plus tuna) for itadori.co.jp/shop/shop_02.html. 5pm-11.30pm (last orders 10.30pm) on days when your time. While most of the action in Tsukiji goes on in the ¥1,250 is particularly good value. And if you’re visiting between October Toyosu Market is open, 11am-9.30pm (9pm) on market closing days. morning when the remaining outer market is operating, the and April, don’t miss out on the deep-fried oysters, made with seafood neighbourhood is now slowly establishing itself as an after-dark fresh and premium enough to be eaten raw. Expertly prepared to be destination, where excellent food and drink can be savoured on crunchy on the outside and rare on the inside, these creamy and flavourful the cheap. Here are six superb restaurants and bars, which are bivalves are addictive. all set on ensuring that Tsukiji remains an essential stop on the à 6-21-2 Tsukiji, Chuo (Tsukiji Station). 03 3541 8698. tsukijitakeno.owst.jp. Mon-Fri 11am-9pm (last orders Tokyo foodie trail even in its post-market era. 8.30pm), Sat 11am-8pm (7.30pm), closed Sun & hols.

TSUKIJI BACCANALE TOKYO KISA TOYOSHIMA Opened in July 2018 just as many joints GREEN KITCHEN around it were preparing to close their doors for There’s only room for ten diners along the counter at this good due to the wholesale market’s impending intimate French restaurant, hidden away on a backstreet towards move to Toyosu, this bar is run by an event- Namiyoke Shrine. When slipping into your seat, the first thing you’ll planning business based in Tsukiji. Worried TANIGAWA KEISUKE notice is the row of bottles with spices and herbs lined up in front of you, about what the future of the neighbourhood TSUKIJI EBIKIN providing a hint of things to come. Seafood of the quality you’d expect would look like once the market left, the Noodle shops serving shrimp-based aren’t from a fancy sushi joint is prepared with extreme attention to detail, and company’s staff decided to do their part in uncommon in Japan, but few joints can compete with turned into unconventional but utterly delicious French-style dishes keeping the streets alive. Ebikin. A remarkable 50 sweet shrimp go into every using the aforementioned array of seasonings. The resulting tavern specialises in craft beer, bowl of soup for the Ebisoba (¥830), which is served with Our personal favourite dish is the steak (¥4,800), steamed for with five or six brews on tap at all times. The homemade noodles and a generous amount of ground an impressive eight hours before grilling. This time-consuming process selection changes regularly, so you can always look shrimp. All that is topped with soft char siu, a boiled egg, results in a wonderfully soft meat, which is then served with a sauce forward to something new. Beers are available in leek and fried onion, plus the obligatory handful of mini- combining abalone liver with fermented sansho pepper to really bring both regular (¥800) and small (¥500) sizes, so you shrimp. Although you’ll be compelled to slurp up every out the umami. All mains come with simply grilled, naturally sweet can work your way through more of the selection. last drop, hold your horses: when you’ve finished the seasonal vegetables, which are some of the best in Tokyo. For the full The bar also has a popular billiards table allowing noodles, ask the staff to convert your leftover soup into experience, have your meal with a ‘spicy highball’, made with Japanese you to combine craft beer with shots. one very shrimpy rice porridge instead – it’s free, so why whisky plus a sprinkling from those ever shaking spice bottles. If you ask, à Signet Deux 2F, 4-12-5 Tsukiji, Chuo (Tsukiji Station). 03 6264 2840. wouldn’t you? the staff will even switch things up with a pepper or herb of your choice. tsukiji.love/baccanale. 6pm-2am, closed Sun & hols. Cover charge ¥500 à 6-23-5 Tsukiji, Chuo (Tsukiji Station). 03 5565 8553. ebikin.com. 7am-9.30pm (last à 6-23-7 Tsukiji, Chuo (Tsukiji Station). 070 3123 7667. fb.com/tsukijigreenkitchen.

KEISUKE TANIGAWA KEISUKE (sofa seats ¥3,000 for two hours, billiards table ¥1,000 for 30 min). orders 9.15pm), closed Sun & hols. Tue-Thu 5pm-11.30pm, Fri-Sat 5pm-12midnight, Sun 4pm-10pm, closed Mon.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 62 63 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo Bursting LGBT with pride Film

With Tokyo Rainbow Pride happening See p19 from end April to early May, you can for Tokyo look forward to a host of LGBT parties Rainbow in town. By Zoey Peterson Pride

sun comes up. Reserve tickets singles and green for those just through their Line account, and looking for friends. remember to flash your ID at the > Monthly or bimonthly (usually last Sat of the check-in – that month’s birthday month), 11pm-5am. clubasia, 1-8 Kadoyamacho, hits See the girls get in for ¥1,000. Shibuya (Shibuya Station). tipsy.chu.jp. Advance top ten list on timeout.com/ > Every 3rd Sat of the month (Apr 20, May 18, Jun ¥2,500, at the door ¥3,000. Matt Schley picks the top six anime 15), bar 6pm-9.30pm, club 9pm-5am. Bar Gold of the Heisei era tokyo Finger, 2-12-11 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku- VITA PRIDE PARTY Sanchome Station). goldfingerparty.com/bar. Bar Vita is known for its elegant twist ¥2,000, club ¥2,500 advance, ¥3,000 at the door. on gay events, with past parties IT’S THE END of an era, literally. the more senior partner, who had taking place everywhere from In 2019, Japan’s Heisei period, already directed several mature, TIPSY cruise ships to snowy resorts. which began in 1989 with the neo-realist films that pushed the Tipsy attracts lesbians from all These events often have the ascension of Akihito to the boundaries of anime. In his first BUFF identifying people everywhere. over the country to its regular all- feel of a private gathering, with Chrysanthemum Throne, Heisei film, ‘Only Yesterday’, Perfect Blue 1997 MADHOUSE

Bears and bear-lovers flock to Unlike many other Japanese night parties in Tokyo and Osaka. thoughtful venue choices for an will end with his abdication. Takahata traces the life of a © Buff, the event for masculine- women-only parties, this one is Its crowd is primarily Japanese intimate, international crowd. The last 30 years have seen Tokyoite named Taeko whose identifying folks who love a noticeably international, hosted but always welcomes foreigners. It welcomes all genders and the world embrace Japanese trip to the countryside brings fourth film is expected to hit in debut. The story of a pop idol little rough-and-tumble. Gruff, by both foreign and Japanese DJs. The event is widely regarded as orientations, but the guests are culture, particularly anime, back memories of childhood 2020, making Evangelion an era- and a fan whose obsession goes bearded DJs feature on the flyers, Keep your eyes open for Goddess’s Japanese lesbians’ worst-kept majority masculine-identifying which has gone from geek niche (the Japanese title is ‘Omoide spanning phenomenon. too far, the film works as both a and they take turns warming up perfect mix of kitsch and quirk secret: come for the drinks and and seeking the same. Various to internationally-respected Poro Poro’, roughly translating to critique of Japan’s pop culture the crowd. However, this event’s as this party is full of offbeat stay for the featurettes, such as DJs change the mood throughout artform. So the end of the Heisei ‘memories fall like raindrops’). GHOST IN THE SHELL system and an effective woman- main attraction are its beefy go-go attractions. Some memorable Japanese bondage showcases, the night, from smooth R&B era seems the perfect excuse to With no robots, magical girls or 1995 (H7) in-peril psycho-thriller. Kon dancers who strut their stuff and highlights from the last party girl bands and dance troupes. to blood-pumping EDM. look back at the top six anime muscle-bound aliens in sight, With the internet reshaping lives, sadly passed away in 2010 at dance (nearly) in the buff. Don’t included female pro-wrestlers Drop a tip for a kiss from the Come regain some Vita-lity films that have come out of this is the perfect anime film for the ‘90s were a time when people just 46, but not before leaving us be surprised if these bears are tussling poolside, beautiful dancers, or hang back and get while rubbing elbows with Emperor Akihito’s reign. anyone who ‘isn’t into anime’. were beginning to contemplate with many more anime classics, more kinky than cuddly, though female beatboxers and coveted tipsy – taking your cues from the distinguished queer clientele. how the high-tech networked including ‘Millennium Actress’ – Buff loves indulging in fetish raffle prizes. And don’t worry event name – while watching > Apr 27, 11pm-5am. Duo Music Exchange, 2-14-8 KIKI’S DELIVERY SERVICE END OF EVANGELION/ future would affect humanity. and ‘Paprika’. themes and costumes. Tickets about missing that pesky last them prance on the bar counters. Shibuya. fb.com/events/991926464310945. 1989 (Heisei 1) EVANGELION 1.0 / Enter ‘Ghost in the Shell’, the include one complimentary train – these events rage either all Tipsy is a safe space for couples, Advance ¥3,000 (¥2,000 for those under 29), VIP It seems unfathomable now, but EVANGELION 2.0 / cyberpunk film from auteur SUMMER WARS drink, helping you on your way to day, such as the Goddess summer too; this party often has a reverse- ¥5,000. At the door ¥3,500 (¥2,500 for those under in 1989, Hayao Miyazaki’s revered EVANGELION 3.0 Mamoru Oshii, which blended 2009 (H21) becoming a real party animal. party, or all night, as in the stoplight theme, giving out pink 29), VIP ¥5,500. VIP includes a glass of champagne, Studio Ghibli, which was founded 1997 (H9) / 2007 (H19) / 2009 dense future philosophy and The latter half of Heisei saw the > Apr 28, 6pm-10pm (held regularly every one to upcoming Pride Party this April. glowing bracelets for mingling plus use of exclusive VIP balcony and restroom. in 1985, had not yet had a hit. (H21) / 2012 (H24) awesomely-animated cyborg emergence of Mamoru Hosoda, two months). Neo Masquerade, 2-16-8 Shinjuku, > Apr 28, 11pm-5am. Neo Masquerade, 2-16-8 ‘Kiki’s Delivery Service’, the tale It’s hard to overstate the impact action sequences to create an a director who cut his teeth on Shinjuku (Shinjuku-Sanchome Station). fb.com/ Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku-Sanchome Station). of a young witch who leaves home of the hit television series ‘Neon anime masterpiece. Championed franchises like ‘Digimon’ and bufftokyo. Advance ¥2,500 (one drink included), fb.com/Goddess.Tokyo. Advance ¥2,000, at the for the big city, adapted from the Genesis Evangelion’. Airing by the likes of Roger Ebert, ‘One Piece’ before moving on at the door ¥3,000 (one drink included). door ¥2,500. Eiko Kadono novel of the same between 1995 and 1996, its 26 ‘Ghost in the Shell’ became a hit to helm his own original films. name, needed to deliver at the episodes pushed what an anime abroad and even inspired the His breakthrough was ‘Summer GOLD FINGER SINCE 1991 box office or the studio would be about a giant robot could be, Wachowskis to create their own Wars’, a film about a large The femme-first lesbian party in serious financial trouble. But touching on themes of alienation cyberpunk classic, ‘The Matrix’. family living in the Japanese ‘Gold Finger since 1991’ is an perform it did, becoming the top- and fear in the aftermath of Oh, and the best-ignored ScarJo- countryside who pull together to iconic staple of Nichome nightlife grossing film of Heisei’s first year. two of Heisei’s most painful starring live-action remake a defeat an artificial intelligence and this women-only shindig is The film charmed audiences with historical moments: the Aum couple of years ago. threatening to bring about currently split over two venues its portrait of a young woman on Shinrikyo sarin attacks and the nuclear armageddon. Modern on the third Saturday of every a quest for independence – and Great Hanshin Earthquake, both PERFECT BLUE reliance on technology is the month. Kick off your evening at her pet, cute talking cat Jiji, didn’t of which occured in 1995. 1997’s 1997 (H9) story’s nominal concern, though Bar Gold Finger with karaoke hurt either. trippy big screen outing ‘End Honestly, we could have chosen its unexpectedly multilayered plus an all-you-can-drink plan of Evangelion’ was intended to any of the films by director vision of friendship, family and between 6pm and 9.30pm for ONLY YESTERDAY draw the story to a close, but the Satoshi Kon, but ‘Perfect Blue’ is community is what gives this sci- GODDESS a flat fee of ¥2,000, then dance 1991 (H3) ‘End’ in the name didn’t exactly perhaps his most, well, perfect. fi film its soul. Hosoda revisited Tokyo’s premier lesbian dance your way next door to Aisotope Hayao Miyazaki may now be stick – 2007 saw the release of A thrilling Hitchcockian tale, these themes in his latest film, party takes place no more to find your Miss Right (or Miss Ghibli’s best-known director, but ‘Evangelion 1.0’, the first film in its confidence and mastery are ‘Mirai’, which garnered an than four times a year, making Right-Now), while Tokyo’s hottest Vita Pride Party when it was formed the studio’s a four-part theatrical retelling even more remarkable when you Academy Award nomination the event a must for femme- female DJs spin tracks until the co-founder Isao Takahata was of the series. The long-awaited consider this is the director’s this year.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 64 65 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo Travel & Hotels

Travel & DAY TRIP TO MIYAJIMA Hotels THINGS TO DO

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park Sokoiko One of the only two cities in If you’re looking to experience a different side of Hiroshima, book a bicycle tour the world to have suffered an with Sokoiko (the name means ‘Let’s go there’ in Japanese). These English-speaking guides atomic bombing, Hiroshima can put together a custom ride based on your preferences and also offer a number of preset and its Peace Memorial Park routes. The latter include the Peace Tour, which takes you around remains of the city that are a testament to the horrors of existed before the atomic bomb was dropped, and lets you see how Hiroshima rose from war. Raw, thought-provoking the ashes in the postwar era. Experiencing the city on two wheels is a great way to make new and solemnly beautiful, this discoveries, and Sokoiko’s expert guides are always happy to point you to hidden gems off the expansive park in the centre of beaten tourist path. the city was established in 1954 àsokoiko-mint.com. close to the hypocentre of the bomb. Dedicated to world peace, its grounds contain several ruins of buildings devastated by the blast, as well as monuments Hiroshima Hon-dori Shotengai built to honour the victims. The Hiroshima’s main thoroughfare is 577 Hiroshima Peace Memorial metres long and cuts right through the city No trip to Hiroshima is complete Museum (visit the east building centre from east to west. Shops along this without a visit to the holy island while waiting for the main pedestrian arcade cover a wide range, and of Itsukushima, more commonly building to reopen on April 25), they draw 100,000 or so shoppers every known as Miyajima. It has the World Heritage-listed A-Bomb weekend. Stop by Hiroshima Yume Plaza traditionally been considered one Dome, and Hiroshima National (yumeplaza.com) if you’re keen on picking of Japan’s ‘three most beautiful Peace Memorial Hall for the up local regional food and goods as well as places’. Locals believe the island Atomic Bomb Victims are all tourist brochures for the area. Country Cat, to be the home of the gods and it essential destinations for anyone on the other hand, carries a host of feline- has been a site of worship since looking to learn more about themed gifts, souvenirs and bric-a-brac. antiquity. In fact, the sanctity of the Hiroshima’s darkest hour. While Hon-dori itself has enough to see for at island is so fiercely protected that à1-1 Nakajimacho, Naka, Hiroshima. least half a day, do consider saving some time there are no graves or maternity 082 241 4004. for the back streets, where you’ll find quirky facilities on the island (women cafés and smaller shops. leave the island when their due àHon-dori, Naka, Hiroshima. hondori.or.jp. date is close and only return after giving birth).

Home to a large number of shrines and temples, including the World Heritage-listed Itsukushima Shrine, the island has seen an influx of Orizuru Tower stylish restaurants and cafés in Located just a quick stroll from the A-Bomb recent years. When it gets crowded Dome, this 12-storey shopping and office over the weekends, venture off the complex is best visited for the wooden main street to seek out Kakiwai observation deck on the top floor. Known (kakiwai.jp), a restaurant where you as Hiroshima no Oka (‘Hiroshima Hill’), it can nurse a cup of artisanal coffee offers superb views of the Peace Memorial while gazing out over a nearby shrine Park and the aforementioned dome. On and the sea beyond. clear days, when Mt Misen on Miyajima comes into view, you can rest your eyes The fastest way to get to Miyajima on both of Hiroshima’s World Heritage from Hiroshima Station is to take sites simultaneously. Take in the sights the JR Sanyo line to Miyajimaguchi and sounds of the city over coffee at the Station (¥410; about 25 minutes). City of peace observation deck’s café, or head down to At Miyajimaguchi, it’s a two-minute the huge gift shop on the ground floor to walk to the ferry pier, where a boat After the devastating atomic bombing of World War II, browse through a selection of about 1,000 (¥180) will take you to the island in Hiroshima has risen again to become a beacon of world peace, kinds of local snacks and souvenirs. about 10 minutes. and one of Japan’s top tourist destinations. Miroku Hina à1-2-1 Otemachi, Naka, Hiroshima. 082 569 6803. àFor more information, recommends the top things to do in the city orizurutower.jp/en. see miyajima.or.jp/english.

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 66 67 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo Travel & Hotels Travel & Hotels

FOOD & DRINK

Social Book Cafe Hachidorisha Need a breather before or after a visit to the Peace Memorial Park? Try WHERE this second-floor café, which offers free wi-fi and electrical outlets, in addition to organic meals for both TO STAY lunch (weekends only) and dinner. Run by peace activist Erika Abiko, who organises various events aimed at drawing attention to social issues, the café regularly hosts talks on everything from politics and constitutional law to the importance of understanding sexual minorities. On the 6, 16 and 26 of every month, survivors of the atomic bombing of Hiroshima gather here to tell their stories, which are interpreted into English. Do consider making NIGHTLIFE use of this precious opportunity to communicate with the few remaining witnesses to that fateful day. Ekinishi à2-43-201 Dohashicho, Naka, Hiroshima. 082 576 Located beside JR Hiroshima Station’s south exit, this jovial bar-packed Tsuruya Guesthouse 4368. hachidorisha.com. neighbourhood is where locals come to party. While its streets were previously lined Located across the bridge from the A-Bomb Dome, with old-school watering holes, the past few years have seen a younger crowd move right in the heart of the city, this chic guesthouse in, resulting in the opening of many trendy joints housed in beautifully renovated offers overnight stays from as low as ¥2,000. Both buildings. Small in size but unbeatable for its variety, Ekinishi is ideal for bar- dorms and private rooms are available at Tsuruya, hopping, where you’ll find wine bars right next to fancy Italian restaurants and even which also operates its own riverside bar and café. Okonomimura hole-in-the-walls specialising in street food from different parts of the world (Thai Sit down here for a coffee or glass of whisky, or You can’t visit Hiroshima and not eat okonomiyaki, joint Baltan Syokudou is particularly popular). head up to the second-floor lounge for a view of the local soul food. Sometimes described as a Japanese àAround 11 and 12 Osugacho, Minami, Hiroshima. the cherry trees lining the river. savoury pancake, this delicacy is packed with vegetables à2-1-7 Honkawacho, Naka, Hiroshima. (particularly cabbage), meat and seafood, and topped with 082 942 5500. t-packer.com. generous drizzles of okonomiyaki sauce and . However, there are two types of okonomiyaki: Kansai- and Hiroshima-style offerings differ in preparation and appearance, with the latter cooked by placing layers of batter, toppings and – uniquely for Hiroshima – noodles on top of each other. To experience it at its best, make a beeline to Okonomimura, a popular foodie destination just off the Hon-dori shopping street. This ‘food theme park’ houses 20 okonomiyaki eateries, including famed purveyors such as Brooklyn Hassho and Atomu, with many of them staying open until Nagarekawa is Hiroshima’s the wee hours. entertainment centre, à5-13 Shintenchi, Naka, Hiroshima. okonomimura.jp. Hours vary by restaurant. Ekie and this hideaway bar is This expansive shopping where to start your journey and restaurant complex is directly through its neon-lit streets. Mei-Mei connected to JR Hiroshima Look for the red sign at the 36 Hostel While most versions of Station and can keep foodies back of the building the The Tokaichi neighbourhood is home to several Hiroshima’s famous okonomiyaki occupied for hours on end. The address points to, open trendy shops and cafés, and this hip guesthouse include pork, Muslim visitors to the restaurant area lets you sample the door and enter a dimly fits right in among the boutiques and bakeries. city need not despair: January 2019 saw local delicacies from okonomiyaki lit, classy space decorated Standing out with its white exterior and retro sign the opening of the world’s first halal and oysters to spicy noodles, with rococo-style sofas and by the entrance, 36 Hostel effortlessly combines restaurant specialising in the Hiroshima while the vast souvenir zone’s plenty of unusual knick- the chic with the comfortable. The price for a night version of the pancake-like delicacy. Mei- shelves and stalls are packed knacks. Brooklyn is famed in a dorm bed starts from just ¥3,000, while Mei makes its version with chicken, and with edible specialities from for its beautifully presented private rooms are available from ¥6,500. Fridges also offers a plentiful teppanyaki menu both Hiroshima and the nearby fresh fruit cocktails, and lets and microwaves are available for guests, who packed with beef and seafood. Even the Setouchi region. These include customers try out the vast can also opt for breakfast and a cup of artisanal hotplates on which the chefs do their Hiroshima classics such as freshly selection of perfumes and coffee at the hostel’s own 36 Coffee & Books. thing have been officially approved by baked momiji manju (cakes body creams which line the The café is open to the public as well, and boasts the religious authorities – plus the staff shaped like Japanese maple bar counter and tables. an impressive collection of photography and art here speak English. leaves and usually filled with red àRokishi Bldg 1F, 8-26 Nagarekawa, books from around the world. àHiroshima Full Focus Bldg 6F, 10-1 Matsubaracho, bean paste) and a plentiful variety Naka, Hiroshima. 080 1925 9001. à2-10-17 Tokaichimachi, Minami, Hiroshima. 10am-3pm, 5pm-11pm, closed Mon. of sake, in addition to rarities from 8pm-2am, closed Mon. Naka, Hiroshima. 070 5527 3669. 36hostel.com. the many Seto Inland Sea islands. à1-2 Matsubaracho, Minami, Hiroshima. 082 567 8011. ekie.jp/ekie/lang/english.html. 10am-9pm daily (restaurant opening hours vary).

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 68 69 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo Tokyo READY P76-79 GETTING AROUND 22/10/2013 12:46 Page 77

Getting Around GoingGoing underground? underground? Getting Welcome to the world’s most efficient transport system Around Welcome to the world’s most efficient transport system

Ticket

to ride Getting Around Flash your passport and The train tracks at Tokyo Station get access to a host of discounted tickets for one-day pass pass outside of Japan (check of Japan Transocean Air (JTA) Valid for one-day unlimited use japanrailpass.net for a list of flights based in Naha, Okinawa. trains, buses, metro and of Toei buses around Tokyo. authorised sales offices), as there even the shinkansen Don’t worry, the buses display are only a few vendors within JAL Welcome to Japan Fare upcoming stops in English. Japan, who sell passes at a mark-up. If you’re not arriving on a à¥500 (children ¥250) à¥29,110-81,870 oneworld flight, you can still bag EVERYONE KEEPS TELLING you a bargain. This option brings the how expensive Japan is, right? Japan Bus Pass cost of flights to JAL cities down to Don’t believe the hype. There are GREATER Offered by Willer Express, which ¥14,040 per sector. bargains to be had, particularly operates highway buses across when travelling in this fine TOKYO (KANTO Japan, this pass gets you three, five ANA Visit Japan Fare country. So if you’re looking to or seven non-consecutive days of The ANA fare allows you to fly to cross town or fly the length of REGION) travel (which can include weekends any destination across Japan for Japan, we’ve got you covered. with the right pass) – within a two- only ¥13,000 per flight, including JR Tokyo Wide Pass month period. There are some code share ones. You must If you’re looking for a whistle- blackout dates (namely, Golden live outside of Japan, but your TOKYO stop tour of Kanto, this beauty Week and the Obon holidays in international ticket to or from will give you three days of August), but other than that you Japan can be with any airlines. This Common one-day ticket for unlimited travel on JR East can pretty much ride whenever fare is limited to a minimum of two and Shinkansen (bullet trains) and you want within two months of to a maximum of five segments, Unlimited travel on all Tokyo limited express trains in the your first journey. The deal is and must be issued outside of Metro and Toei subway lines for, region. There are drawbacks only available via willerexpress. Japan. Blackout dates apply. you guessed it, 24 hours. though – tickets can only be used com, and to those with a foreign à¥900 (children ¥450) on consecutive days and cannot passport, including residents. ANA Super Value be used for Tokaido Shinkansen àFrom ¥10,000 By reserving and purchasing in Tokyo subway ticket or JR buses. advance through the airline’s Only available to tourists, this pass à¥10,000 (children ¥5,000) JAL oneworld Yokoso/ dedicated website, you will is similar to the common one- Visit Japan Fare enjoy substantial fare discounts day ticket, but comes in 24-hour, Flying can sometimes be cheaper on ANA domestic flights to any 48-hour and 72-hour options. It’s JAPAN-WIDE than taking the shinkansen. major city in Japan. Fares start valid on all subway and metro Especially if you’re travelling from ¥6,400 (Tokyo to Sapporo, lines – so no JR or private train Japan Rail Pass to Japan on any oneworld as of Feb 16 2019). The fare may lines for you (even then it should The top trump of rail passes, member airline – including differ depending on the date of cover all the major tourist sites this will get you on all JR trains – Japan Airlines (JAL), British departure, date of purchase and and attractions in Tokyo). Tickets including shinkansen – as well as Airways, American Airlines destination. can only be bought at Narita and local JR bus services and a ferry and Qantas – which allows you Haneda airports, some larger service (to Miyajima Island in access to discounted domestic à Note: Prices and fare conditions hotels and Bic Camera locations Hiroshima) during the validity flights. The Visit Japan Fare are correct at time of print, and are within Tokyo, and you’ll have to period (7, 14 or 21 consecutive costs only ¥10,800 per sector subject to change. Please check the flash your passport to get one. days after first use). Only visitors and can be used for travel to the official websites to confirm before à¥800 for 24 hours, ¥1,200 for 48 hours, ¥1,500 to Japan are eligible; it is highly 30-plus cities JAL flies to within purchasing for 72 hours (children ¥400, ¥600, ¥750) recommended that you buy your the country, including the use MELPOMENEM/DREAMSTIME

Time Out Tokyo April-June, 2019 70 71 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit www.timeout.com/tokyoApril-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo77 MORE ON RIGHT HERE, TIMEOUT.COM/TOKYO RIGHT NOW i moe etut Want to get out and about in Tokyo? Whether it’s a ti to o o te eite comedy show, a live gig or even a music festival, you can now book your tickets through us.

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Pick up our magazine and maps here: Get our maps and mag in Shibuya Stations: Select Toei Subway stations, including et etut o Stop by the Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre Shinjuku and Roppongi Tourist information centres: te it You can now Time get ti to o i uku your copy of Tokyo Metropolitan Government le r ee u ere p, e n rin Headquarters ere i ee rni Out Tokyo magazine Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre in ii pil delivered – we even ship Tokyo City Air Terminal reurn re pere tinyurl.com/TOTarajuku internationally! Ginza Mitsukoshi Tourist Information Desk time-out-tokyo. Tokyo City i r ur ne e Visit ... and more tourist information centres tinyurl.com/TOTateesto myshopify.com. Airports: Haneda Airport (International Terminal) Narita International Airport Shops: Tsutaya Tokyo Roppongi Books Kinokuniya Shinjuku Main Store Books Kinokuniya Tokyo Tower Records Shibuya ... and more shops Restaurants: Time Out Café & Diner Hard Rock Café Tokyo (Roppongi) All British Pub Hub locations in Tokyo ... and more restaurants Hotels that have Les Clefs d’Or Japan member concierge: Te et etut ANA InterContinental Tokyo e eoi Teme The Peninsula Tokyo Palace Hotel Tokyo A A A A ere e n rin ere TIME OUT READERS will know Each edition squeezes the best All of these publications, along Park Hyatt Tokyo r er eplrin Au about our popular series of free of the capital into a compact guide, with issues of our free quarterly Mandarin Oriental,Tokyo Tokyo mot uuu mueum maps: pocket-sized guides to the complete with a city map, and magazine, are available to pick Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel p uri rin multifarious delights this city has we’ve included everything from up at Shibuya Station’s Tourist Grand Hyatt Tokyo ie, prie, n le, ren Conrad Tokyo tinyurl.com/TOTensojiats to offer. They’re hard to miss these offbeat art galleries and otaku Information Centre, conveniently u ne i, ee ueu r i Hotel Okura Tokyo days – as well as our ever-popular meccas to ancient shrines and located in the underground The Prince Park Tower Tokyo tinyurl.com/TOTnusualuseums ‘101 things to do in Shibuya’ hipster hangouts. passage on the second basement Royal Park Hotel Tokyo edition and the comprehensive We’ve also recently expanded floor of the station. The English- ... and more hotels ‘88 things to do in Tokyo’, we’ve the series to include places beyond speaking guides will help you Note: If you can’t find the map you’re looking for, this probably means we’ve temporarily run come up with maps for nearly Tokyo, launching special maps for stock up, provide sightseeing tips out of stock. Please be patient while we work all the top areas including those of you heading to Shimane and assist you in navigating the on the next print run. Roppongi, Shinjuku, Nihonbashi, or the temples of Nikko – both bowels of the cavernous station Please direct any advertising queries to

SHIBUYA INFORMATION CENTER: KEISUKE TANIGAWA INFORMATION SHIBUYA Marunouchi, Koenji and Ginza. make for a great mini getaway. itself. [email protected].

73 April-June, 2019 Time Out Tokyo You know … the train stations are super smart you’re By Taryn Siegel

WITH ABOUT 10 PERCENT of Japan’s in Tokyo population residing in Tokyo – and with most Tokyoites using the city’s trains every day – a slick public transport system is crucial to keep the city on the move. The capital’s trains when… have become famous for their to-the-second efficiency. But there’s a lot more than just on-time departures that makes Tokyo’s train stations some of the smartest around...

POINTING AND CALLING DOOR-CLOSING CHIMES You may notice that train conductors and platform attendants seem to To cut down on commuting stress as much as possible, use an excessive amount of gestures and verbal calls every time a train in 1989 JR East commissioned Yamaha and composer is approaching or leaving. No, these aren’t aspiring performance artists Hiroaki Ide to create pleasing seven-second-long chimes dressed up as train personnel; they’re actually employing a mandatory known as hassha melodies to warn passengers when the practice called ‘point and call’. train doors are closing. Studies have shown an 85 percent reduction in human error can be Nearly every station and line has its own unique jingle achieved by pointing to an object and then verbalising your actions, – some are upbeat, some are soothing, and some are since more of the brain is being employed, thereby increasing your oddly familiar, like the Disney tunes you can hear on the situational awareness. Due to this increased accuracy and decreased Toyoko line down to Yokohama or the ‘Star Wars’ theme at likelihood of human error, this method for issuing instructions Jiyugaoka Station. is mandatory throughout the rail industry in Japan.

LED LIGHTS FOR SUICIDE PREVENTION A tragic but well- known fact about Japan is its high CROWDED YET suicide rate. ON-TIME Hundreds of these Japan has 45 of deaths each year the world’s 50 happen when people busiest stations, jump in front of trains and yet trains here – an event broadcast are incredibly to commuters as a on-time, with the average jinshin jiko or ‘human accident’. A delay about 36 seconds. You lot of stations have installed chest- might remember when a MARKING THE QUEUES high barriers that make it impossible train between Tokyo and Even during the craziest of rush hours, for commuters to jump. But not Tsukuba made headlines train platforms always maintain a sense all stations can afford this costly after the operator issued of orderliness, with markings on every improvement. a sincere apology after a platform indicating where waiting Studies have shown that a calming 20-second accidental early passengers should stand to embark. Some blue light can help mitigate stress, departure (though to be fair, train lines take this a step further, with two so many train stations have installed even Japanese people found queues marked out – one for the ‘first train’ LED blue lights at the ends of their the apology hilarious and and one for the ‘second train’. platforms (where most suicide victims ridiculous). But even a few After queuing up in Tokyo train stations jump from). It may sound like a long minutes delay is exceedingly for a couple of weeks, you’ll almost certainly shot, but it’s actually been amazingly rare here and will definitely find yourself wandering the train platforms effective. A 10-year study showed an come with a mea culpa issued in your home city wondering where to stand 84 percent decline in the number of several times via loudspeaker before you remember that it’s just a lawless suicide attempts at stations where

throughout the ride. free-for-all outside of Tokyo. these lights were installed. IIDA KENTO