SARAJEVO COOKBOOK Sarajevo is the capital city of Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is its administrative, economic, cultural and educational center. The city center of Sarajevo is a unit of local self-governance, which consists of four municipalities: Old City, Center, New City and New Sarajevo. Sarajevo is the place where the East meets the West. The city is famous for its traditional religious diversity, with adherents of Islam, Orthodoxy, Catholicism and Judaism coexisting there for centuries. Due to its long and rich history of religious and cultural variety, Sarajevo is often called "Jerusalem of Europe". Nestled within the greater Sarajevo valley, it is surrounded by the Dinaric Alps and situated along the Miljacka River in the heart of Southeastern Europe and the Balkans. Because of its geographical position, Sarajevo was chosen to host the 1984 Winter Olympic Games. Though settled from the prehistoric times, the modern city arose as an Ottoman stronghold in the 15th century. Bosnia and Herzegovina was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire from 1878 until 1914, when the assassination of the Archduke in Sarajevo sparked the World War I. Sarajevo was also the first city in Europe and the second city in the world to have a full-time operational electric tram network running through the city, the first being San Francisco. The modern history of the city is no less interesting and turbulent, so everybody is invited to take a walk through Sarajevo’s streets and capture the atmosphere of this fascinating town. Sarajevo has mild continental climate. It is located in Central European Time Zone (GMT +1). The electricity supply is 220V with 50Hz frequency. Tap water in Sarajevo is safe for consumption. CURRENCY: Currency in B&H is Convertible Mark. The international abbreviation for currency is BAM, while KM is used locally. 1 Euro = 1.95 KM, and you can exchange currency in any bank, post office, exchange office or hotel. Banks are generally open from 8 AM to 4 or 6 PM on working days, and from 9 AM to 1 PM on Saturdays. Main post office is open from 7 AM to 8 PM from Monday to Saturday. Exchange offices work almost around the clock. PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION AND GETTING FROM THE AIRPORT Sarajevo has tram, trolley bus, bus and minibus lines. Tram Line No. 3 runs from Baščaršija to Ilidža (from one end of the city to the other) and the ride takes about 30 minutes. Tickets are required for any form of public transportation and they can be purchased at kiosks (for 1.60 KM) or from the driver (for 1.80 KM). You must have your tickets “punched” upon entering the vehicle. There are also multi-ride tickets available for the trams, which are ideal if you plan on using public transport for getting around town. A bus line runs between the International Sarajevo airport and Baščaršija and coincides with flight timetables. 1 The other option is to take a taxi from the airport. The ride should cost around 10 Euros. However, drivers sometimes would charge you more if they realize you’re a foreigner. Not very polite thing, I agree, but it happens. However, if you would like, I can arrange private pick-up/drop-off for the COST participants. It will cost you 5 Euros from the airport to your hotel, or 10 euros if you would like round trip. If you prefer this option, please send me an email to [email protected] with your flight plan and the hotel you booked so that I can arrange the transport on time. Around the city, taxis are cheap in Sarajevo and operate 24 hours a day. The starting fare is 1.50 KM and the normal tariff per kilometer is 1.00 KM. All legitimate taxis have “TA” on their license plates and use taxi meters. There is also the public bicycle system, NextBike (www.nextbike.ba). If you are a user of this system in your home country, your user account should work in Sarajevo as well. GOING AROUND THE CITY (http://sarajevo.travel/en) Our venue, hotel Europe is located next to the main pedestrian street in the Old Town, Sarači street. This street goes from the Baščaršija, the main square of the Old Town, to “the Sarajevo meeting of cultures” point. From there street name is Ferhadija street and it goes down to the Eternal Flame (Vječna vatra), a memorial to the military and civilian victims of the Second World War in Sarajevo. From there, Maršala Tita street will take you to more modern parts of the city. If you take a stroll down these streets, starting at Barščaršija and going down, you’ll be able to follow the succession of eras in Sarajevo, visible through architecture you’ll be passing: from Otoman, to Austro-Hungarian to more modern times. Along this stroll you’ll pass next to main sacral objects of all major monotheistic religions: Gazi Husrev Bey’s Mosque, Jewish museum of B&H (housed in Old Jewish Temple), Cathedral of Jesus’ Sacred Heart and New Orthodox Church. 2 Sarajevo meeting of cultures Eternal flame If you are a museum buff, there are number of museums that you can visit that tell the stories about this town. If you have limited time, but would like to get a quick glimpse in the history of Sarajevo, then I recommend you to visit Brusa Bezistan (http://muzejsarajeva.ba/en/depadance/brusa- bezistan), located in Baščaršija. This museum is located in the 16th century covered market and it houses the permanent exhibit From Prehistory to the End of the Austro-Hungarian Period. It will take half an hour to full hour to go through it, depending on your interest. If you have more time and would like to explore more, then I recommend going to the National museum of B&H (http://www.zemaljskimuzej.ba/en). It has historical, ethnological and natural sections, housed in three separate buildings connected by botanical garden. Just across, there is the Historical museum of B&H (http://muzej.ba/) that deals with the country’s entire history, from the first mention of Bosna in historical records all the way up to the contemporary period. If you don’t mind a short walk uphill, and the day is sunny, I recommend you go to the Yellow Fortress (Žuta Tabija in Bosnian), the best place to see city’s panorama and my personal favorite spot in the city (http://sarajevo.travel/en/things-to-do/yellow-fortress/482) . The Yellow Fortress is one of the fortifications that made up the defensive wall of the old town, Vratnik. Since it is positioned up on Jekovac Cliff, it is also known as Jekovac Fortress. It will take you 10-15 minutes walk from Baščaršija but I think it is worthy of your effort. Yellow fortress Panorama of Sarajevo And if you do go up there, then I suggest you take a brake at nearby café / Patisserie “Kamarija Point of View” (Mon - Sun: 08:00 - 24:00). The word “Kamarija” originates from the Arabic word “Qamarun”, meaning moon. Kamarija was the balcony on the old Bosnian houses from where one could watch moonlight at night. Bear in mind that they don’t serve alcohol in this cafe. 3 Kamarija point of view WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK IN SARAJEVO http://sarajevo.travel/en/text/where-to-eat-in-sarajevo/327 If you love good food and you don’t care about calories, and if you are a meat lover on top of all, then you are coming home . Bosnian food reflects a mix of Oriental, Mediterranean and Central European culinary traditions and most meals make use of meat and vegetables. Bosnian cuisine is similar to Turkish and Greek but with local variations and twists. Traditional Bosnian “fast food” restaurants are aščinicas or cafeteria-style eateries; buregdžinicas, which serve pita (stuffed phyllo dough) and ćevabdžinicas, where you can enjoy ćevapčići and other grilled items. Dictionary of Bosnian fast-food: Pita – pie, and the variations are: Burek - phyllo dough stuffed with minced beef Krompirusa - phyllo dough stuffed with grated or chopped potatoes and onion Zeljanica - phyllo dough stuffed with spinach and cottage cheese Sirnica - phyllo dough stuffed with cottage cheese Ćevapi/ćevapčići - is a grilled dish of minced meat and represents a regional specialty similar to the kofte kebab. They are usually served as 5–10 pieces on a plate or in a flatbread (lepinje or somun), often with chopped onions and sour cream. Bosnian ćevapi are made from two types of minced beef meat, hand mixed and formed in a funnel, then grilled. I personally recommend places called Mrkva and Kastel, although you can find good ćevapi at other places as well. Kastel (meaning “fortress”) is located three minutes walking distance from our venue and serves a bit different type of ćevapi – made with garlic, and served with chilly peppers. Delicious! If you prefer international cuisine, I recommend three restaurants that are located 10 minutes walking distance from the hotel Europe: Đulagin dvor, Zembilj and Barhana (http://sarajevo.travel/en/things-to-do/barhana/158). These three restaurants share common courtyard secluded from the street where you can enjoy great food and drinks. These restaurants serve domestic vines from Herzegovina, and local grappa with different flavors. These restaurants also have some delicious meals on their menus that would suit the taste of vegetarians. You can also 4 check out Metropolis (milk bar and restaurant) and Chipas (chicken and pasta) that are located next to the Cathedral. And, of course, there’s always McDonald’s if you prefer it that way .