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Global Runway Reports S/S '15 New York, London, Milan, Paris, Miami

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Global Runway Reports S/S '15 New York, London, Milan, Paris, Miami spring/summer 2015 | global | runway report | FFT magazine 33 GLOBAL RUNWAY REPORTS S/S '15 NEW YORK, LONDON, MILAN, PARIS, MIAMI The international runway reports are carefully consolidated and put together after reviewing the runway shows of the top fashion capitals in the world- New York, London, Milan, Paris and Miami for Swimwear. There are themes, general looks, silhouettes, prints, colours and detail trends that are picked out, separately for womenswear by analyzing all the shows, keeping the best-selling and most popular RUNWAY REPORTS trends of the season in mind. The menswear show for spring summer 2015 revolved around London’s mix of tradition and contemporary designs to a sober tour in Milan, to a complete rock fest at our final destination of Paris. For womenswear, it was all about dialing back to the 70’s. The cities gave a choice between disco and Woodstock bohemia in S/S '15 their own distinct ways. 34 Fashion Forward Trends spring summer 2015 | menswear | runway report | FFT magazine 35 MENSWEAR TRENDS S/S ‘15 The much awaited menswear show for spring summer 2015 took us around London’s mix of tradition and contemporary designs, followed by a sober tour at Milan, and culminated at a rock fest In Paris - our final destination. There were interesting additions made to suitings, street wear, rainwear and sportswear, as regards fit, texture and colour. Suits got more relaxed, shorts got shorter, outerwear got inspired by robe coats, and classics like denim were reinvented in new ways. In addition to tropical prints and pinstripes dominating the collections, traces of dip-dyeing were also seen. Water and sea was a prominent theme - Prada staged their collection around a huge constructed deep blue pool, Gucci went a little literal with their naval collection, as did Miyake with their sea-themed odyssey. Elsewhere, Dior had undercurrents of sea-inspired silhouettes, and Missoni, once again, tapped its urban surfer. Detailing was in great focus, where womenswear trends from last summer seeped into menswear in the form of pleats on men’ skirts and shirts, fringes attached to hemlines, and kimono sleeves. From heritage tailoring to cutting- edge futurism, the menswear industry has a lot to look forward to this summer. Fashion Forward Trends spring summer 2015 | menswear | runway report | FFT magazine JONATHAN SAUNDERS KRIS VAN ASSCHE LOU DALTON VIVIENNE WESTWOOD PRADA PHILIPP PLEIN GIVENCHY CASELY HAYFORD CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION FENDI JUNYA WATANABE KATIE EARY BOMBERS DENIM Continuing the breakthrough from last season’s sportswear inspired trend, bomber jackets were shown in various guises A staple of every wardrobe, denim came into the spotlight for this season in a new avatar. Each season, the treatment at most shows this season. Previously presented in plain fabrics and classic looks, this time, the bomber jacket charted changes and this holds true for this summer too. The fabric was revamped in every collection and showcased in top- new territories by being mixed in a variety of colours, materials and value addition techniques. The most explicit versions notch standout stitching and stonewash effects. There were paint-splattered jeans, flannel patchwork on boxy jackets, seen were the ones with beading carried out on floral prints or quoted animal print patterns, while the less vivid ones were patchworked coats, frayed denims, ripped shorts, bleached separates, printed shirts - nothing seemed to miss the roll call constructed in shiny polyester and quoted leather or PU. Traditionally associated with a casual look in blacks, whites and this time. There were wholesome classic denim collections with the entire gamut of jackets, blazers, coats and jeans used beiges, there was a bomber jacket reinterpreted as a calf-length overcoat, and in a few collections worn over a two-piece for suiting. Many collections showcased double, triple or multi-tone effects of indigo on a single garment through washing suit or with formal pants. Designers provided a variety of bomber jackets for the summer- to be worn as casual wear, techniques. No two garments shared any similarity because of the random blotching, patches, textures and slashing. The formalwear and eveningwear with fancy ornamentation. diverse and repeated use of denim has made it the key fabric for the season. Fashion Forward Trends spring summer 2015 | menswear | runway report | FFT magazine VERSACE ETRO CANALI VERSACE NO. 21 MARC JACOBS PORTS 1961 BURBERRY PRORSUM BALLY ETRO DOLCE & GABBANA BOTTEGA VENETA DOUBLE BREASTED FLAMINGO HUES A fine Victorian detail revived this season with designers drawing a part of its reference from the 80s power suits. Despite The palette comprises of a family of corals, in subdued tones with a tinge of bright shades of coral combined with hues, being a winter wear staple, double breasted outerwear fell perfectly in line with other summer ensembles, making it a sought sombre and bright. While there were literal flamingo prints in peachy pinks doing the rounds,there was also enough rose- after detail for 2015. Boasting a pedigree of quality craftsmanship, the double breasted style has adorned silhouettes pink in unstructured suits with peachy buff tones. This seems like the best choice for those who seem to find red too loud other than the formal winter blazer. As slouchy separates replace form-fitting formals, boxy jackets complemented by for their taste. Tangerine shades were spotted merging with subtle ones- on an orange shirt with embellished beige pants structural lapels and safari pockets boast of either the four or six button style. Interestingly, the flaps on cardigans and and an orange mesh paired up with an oceanic blue. The mellow union of a coral tech jacket with lavender tights looked sleeveless trenches were overlapped to effortlessly fit the trend, and stark gold buttons on sectional flap of a military as languid as it was sharp, and the tropical imprints on a coral jacket with maroon sleeves lent a quirky vibe.The control of jacket, presented a deconstructed version of the detail. popping brights has finally subsided to make way for neutrals and subdued hues exuding a very restrained vibe. Amidst the standard tones emerged the most delicate shade of salmon, lying somewhere between soft pink and peach. Fashion Forward Trends spring summer 2015 | menswear | runway report | FFT magazine ROBERTO CAVALLI KENZO GIVENCHY VIKTOR ROLF PRADA KENZO ANTONIO MARRAS BAND OF OUTSIDERS BURBERRY PRORSUM DOLCE & GABBANA CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION CERRUTI 1881 PARIS BLUE GREEN INNER-OUTER WEAR The common colour combination that struck a chord across all the fashion capitals was that of blue and green. The green While Superman might have triggered the original trend, 2015’s version is a more modest underwear-as-outerwear palette ranged from jade green to emerald to pine green, bordering on teal, while the blue palette varied from shades of approach where vests are being styled over T-shirts or double layered. Models wore what resembled a pulled-down jersey maya blue to sapphire to aquamarine. Instead of completely contrasting the two colours, many designers chose to pair vest, with the armholes creating a braces-hanging-down effect and the string vest made a comeback at certain other tonal shades of the same colour. The best use of these shades was carried out through outerwear, where the coat, sweater shows. Designers were certainly revisiting the 70s as knitwear shapes from the era were prevalent across most collections. or jacket was in a similar shade as the bottom wear and in contrast with the shirt or T-shirt inside. Velvet coats were thrown The tank top certainly seems to be in the spotlight now more than ever - whether it is a paired cable textured back vest or on denim shirts, trench coats were styled on cardigans, and bomber jackets were worn with formal pants with sheen. a highly tailored knit. While some versions took the knitted route, there were others who presented their vests with colourful Designers played around with blue or green plaid shirts and pants too, to break the strong colours, while some made use of graphic prints. accessories such as scarves and hats to add more shades to the ensemble. Fashion Forward Trends spring summer 2015 | menswear | runway report | FFT magazine Y-3 PHILIPP PLEIN CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION VALENTINO TOPMAN DESIGN Y-3 KENZO COMME DES GARCONS NEIL BARRETT SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ROBERTO CAVALLI OPENING CEREMONY MIXED MEDIA COVER NATURE CALLS As the art world is experimenting with mixed media creations, turning two to three dimensional pieces, so are designers. Where there were birds, chipmunks, giraffes and a whole zoo full of other fun things on the runways, there were jungle There were unique creations where every part of the so-called-formal blazer was covered in creative expressions, the botanicals of all kinds, too. Exotic leaves and blooms took on bolder, more oversized forms than seen in previous seasons whole body, in some cases or certain panels, in others, were tailored with cut-out patterns using different materials or through bright daisy patterns being applied to jumpers, tops and shirting, and motifs carried through to trousers and home- contrasting shades or mixing patterns- miniscule florals with bold stripes being the most popular. The most popular jacket spun knitted tanks. The use of yellow florals and the oversized nature of the blooms reinforced the 1970’s psychedelic feel. of the moment- the bomber- was also not left behind as the runways were bombarded with them that included the same Daisies were also a source of floral inspiration where relaxed-fit short-sleeved shirts were decorated with playful daisy and collage-like treatment in a variety of different textures and fabrics. leaf patterns. There were separates featuring tropical leaf prints, which gave an urban jungle feel, Aloha shirts with palm trees and seaweed printed swim shorts.
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