Dr. Windi D. Turner 1 FCSE 3080 and Humanity Part 2: in Dress

History of Fashion

Introduction: Fashion has always been a staple as to how we have presented ourselves to the world, and how society has wanted to present men, women, and children to the world. Fashion has been influenced by many different factors throughout history.

Course Objective: Expand global awareness related to , apparel, and dress relative to design, production, marketing, and consumption.

Goals: What is fashion influence? What are the notable fashion trends during each decade? How did women’s fashion evolve? How did men’s fashion evolve?

Materials:

100 years in 100 seconds Awards Show Moments Decade Defining Songs The fashion of politics FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Early fashion developed out of necessity with people creating apparel that was climate appropriate with the materials available.

Clothing evolved from basic necessity to defining: culture socioeconomic conditions and status individual expression visual appeal

Fashion involves change, novelty, and context of time, place, and wearer.

Fashion influence is a process of "collective selection" whereby the formation of taste derives from a group of people responding collectively to the zeitgeist or "spirit of the times" (Blumer, 1969).

Fashion eras and influences: availability ethnicity cultural traditions art and music expression military political technology FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Textile Availability

Until international textile trade became common, textile availability by geographic region dictated fabric options and by default, fashion.

Artificial was first introduced in the 1910s. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Ethnicity

Clothing choices tend to vary by ethnicity as evidenced by Afrocentric fashion and the significant differences in fashion across areas within East Asia and Central Asia.

Cultural Traditions

Apparel plays an important role as evidenced by Japanese traditional dress and and traditional carnival apparel in various regions.

Carnival dress refers to a pageant, festival, or public celebration found all over the world. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Art

There’s a long relationship between art and fashion. We see this with on apparel and more recently with the concept of wearable art.

Music

There’s a close relationship between music and fashion. From dance for cultural celebrations and performances to modern hip hop, punk rock, and grunge (messy, unkempt, punk). FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Expression

People have long sought to express themselves through fashion, often pushing boundaries toward dress reform to change norms and leading to attacks on fashion. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Military

Undeniably, the military of the world have influenced fashion for the past several hundred years because of the varied terrain and weather encountered by the military as well as the nature of living in one’s . FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Military

It’s said the word camouflage originated from the Parisian slang term camoufler (“to disguise”) after the French army employed artists to paint their artillery and observation posts in the now ubiquitous pattern instead of the more traditional white gloved attire in WWI (Banks, 2014).

Croatian mercenaries arrived in Paris during the Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648) dressed for battle with bright tied so tight around their necks, they fainted during maneuvers. The French adapted the look, looping the scarves more loosely in a style that became known as “La Croate” and later “La cravate” (Banks, 2014).

The white T- was officially designated as part of the U.S. Naval uniform in 1913, as a means to both beat the heat in tropical climates and aboard submarines, and to avoid soiling their uniform while doing dirty jobs (Banks, 2014). FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Military

New airplanes of the 1930s allowed people to fly higher and farther, thus issues of altitude: U.S. Air Force pilots reported headaches and altitude sickness from the glaring sun.

Thus, the Army Airs Corps commissioned a new type of eyewear/goggles featuring plastic frames and the classic aviator shape, which reduced the sun’s intensity on pilot’s faces and instruments.

Later, a slight remodel emerged in the form of the “Ray-Ban Aviators” with further innovations over the years (Banks, 2014).

The British military first wore in 1938 as part of their Battle Dress (BDU). The original cargo pant style featured one pocket on the side thigh and one on the front hip.

Cargo pants were first worn by the U.S. military in the 1940s. Initially, the side cargo pockets were only on paratroopers’ uniforms, providing them with easy access to ammunition and radios (Banks, 2014). FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Military

No other item of outerwear embodies heritage British style as much as the trench . The piece is practically synonymous with the Burberry and Aquascutum brands. For the latter, the history dates to 1853, when the company produced practical for officers fighting in the Crimean War using its patented waterproof .

For Burberry, Thomas Burberry entered his design to the War Office in 1901 for an officer’s made using his very own patented gabardine fabric featuring large , convertible , and epaulets (Banks, 2014).

The “pea” in pea coat derived from the Dutch word “pije,”which references the type of cloth used (coarse twilled blue cloth fabric with a nap on one side) -first made popular in the 16th century and favored by the naval powered Dutch.

It was aesthetically pleasing yet durable and warm thanks to the double-breasted nature of the construction, large lapels and vertical pockets. Quickly, the coat was mimicked and slightly modified depending upon the amount of wool needed and the region where one was sailing (Banks, 2014). FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Military

Most airplanes during WWI didn’t have enclosed cockpits so the daring sharpshooters in the sky had to be outfitted with coats suitable for high-speeds and icy climates.

Although the British Army favored long leather coats, the U.S. Army established the Aviation Clothing Board in 1917 and began distributing heavy-duty leather flight .

They featured high wraparound collars, closures with wind flaps, snug cuffs, and waists. In 1931, the U.S. Air Corp issued the A2 Bomber made of seal skin leather and cotton lining. As the requirement for these jackets grew, supplying seal skin was impractical so the jacket was made of horsehide (Banks, 2014).

Designed by a German doctor, Klaus Martens, during WWII while on leave from the army due to an ankle injury suffered while skiing in the Bavarian Alps. Martens noticed that his bum foot needed extra comfort that his military-issue did not provide. He partnered with Dr. Herbert Funck and tinkered with softer leather and cushioned soles (Banks, 2014). FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Political

First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis represented style and sophistication of the 1960s and is credited with making politics fashionable.

Princess Diana is considered to be the fashion icon of the 1980s and 1990s.

Consider these headlines during the recent US Presidential campaign: “How Donald Trump’s Clothes Reinforce His Campaign” Time; August 4, 2016

“How Hillary Clinton Ended the Clothing Conversation” New York Times; January 20, 2016 FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Technology

Once upon a time, fashion and technology were “just friends.” Now, has expanded to 52 fashion weeks with real time for what’s trending. We now have 3D printing capabilities and technology is embedded in apparel.

Early technology brought us in the 1930s and nylon in the 1940s. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Simply put: people change and the new replaces the old. People are greatly influenced by:

popular culture athletes musicians movie stars politicians royalty popular films/movies/television shows books music fashion industry’s advertising FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Let’s take a look at the evolution of women’s fashion beginning with the 18th century. By no means are the preceding pages an inclusive listing of women’s fashion- just some interesting innovations. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Women’s Fashion

In the years preceding the French Revolution, fashion was characterized by great abundance, elaboration and intricacy in clothing designs. Marie Antoinette, iconic fashion figure, embodies the decadence of the time.

18th Century

The "Louis heel" was fashion-forward of the mid-18th century with high, curved heels made of fabric or leather, with separate buckles. The height of heels have been seen as economic indicators; the higher the heel, the wealthier a nation.

Panniers (side hoops that extended the width of a dress while keeping the front and back relatively flat) were worn with formal at court. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Women’s Fashion

Following the French Revolution, most did not want to be associated with the aristocracy or the decadence of the fashion previously worn by the aristocrats, so adopted simpler silhouettes.

19th Century

By early 19th century, high-waisted were in vogue. The "Empire style" was made famous by Josephine Bonaparte, wife of the French Emperor Napoleon. The empire style began as part of Neoclassical fashion, inspired from styles seen in Greco-Roman art which showed women wearing Peplos (loose fitting rectangular ) belted under the bust, providing support for women and a cool, comfortable outfit suitable for warm climates. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Women’s Fashion

From 1810 - 1820, dresses became slightly more structured with padded hems and firmer fabrics such as twills and taffeta; sleeves began to grow fuller at the shoulder and high waists continued throughout this period but lowered slightly as the years went by.

During the 1820s, Western fashions began to re-adopt 18th century elements such as full and clearly visible corseting of the natural .

By the 1830s, the silhouette of the time had almost fully transitioned from the Empire silhouette of the early 19th century to a silhouette that accentuated the fashionable feminine figure with its sloping shoulders, rounded bust, narrow waist and full hips.

Trends remained similar into the 1840s, characterized by a narrow, natural shoulder line following the exaggerated puffed sleeves and lower waistlines. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Women’s Fashion

By the 1850s and 60s, fashion saw an increase in the width of women's skirts supported by or hoops. The hoop is commonly associated with the American Civil War "southern belle," the most iconic southern belle is, of course, Gone With the Wind's Scarlett O'Hara.

The 1860s saw an emergence of alternative fashions known as the Artistic Dress movement, Artistic Dress rejected the highly structured and heavily trimmed Paris fashion of the day in favor of simplicity and beautiful materials.

During the Victorian era, silhouettes were tight-fitting and heavily trimmed with pleats and frills; women wore form-fitting boned bodices that reached below the hips to mold the body into the ideal shape. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Women’s Fashion

Women reformers during the late Victorian Era opposed the restrictions of the tight- lacing and boned bodice body-modifying garments favoring more practical clothing.

In 1881, the Rational Dress Society was founded with the purpose of opposing fashion that "deforms the figure, impedes the movements of the body, or in any way tends to injure the health." Oscar Wilde and his wife, Constance, were a part of the Rational Dress movement. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Women’s Fashion

Fashion took on simpler, more pragmatic lines with a rise in women's at the turn of the century with changing attitudes about what was acceptable for women to do (bicycling and playing tennis), fashions were created around the activities.

The early 20th century is characterized by tall, stiff collars, broad , and a "health " that removed pressure from the abdomen and created an S-curve silhouette. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Women’s Fashion

Huge, broad-brimmed hats trimmed with masses of feathers, stuffed birds, or ribbons and artificial flowers were worn and the full "Gibson Girl" hairstyles were also popular. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Women’s Fashion

Rationing during World War II meant that dresses became slimmer with just enough fabric for regular movement and clothes assumed a sharper, military-inspired look.

Separates also became popular because it allowed women to mix and match different components with fewer items. When women went to work during the war, they needed safe clothing that wouldn’t snag in machinery such as men's pants; thus, the high waisted trouser worn by Katharine Hepburn were popular. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Women’s Fashion

Fashion saw a resurgence of following the war.

The harder military look was replaced by the soft femininity of Christian Dior's "New Look" silhouette, characterized by a small, nipped-in waist and full skirt falling below mid-calf length, which contrasted the 1940s fabric austerity. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Now, let’s take a look at the evolution of men’s fashion from the 1700s to the early 2000s. As with the previous pages about women’s fashion, the following pages merely highlight men’s fashion. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Men’s Fashion

1700s

Style during this period of history was influenced greatly by France, including wigs and powdered hair, porcelain-tinted complexions, long slender bodices and distended skirts, wide coat-tails, clocked silk stockings, red-heeled shoes, flowers, ribbons, and lace.

Men used powder in their hair making their wigs gray instead of white; fashionable men wore “tie” wigs (all of the curls were tied at the back of the neck with black ribbon), made of heavy muslin that were very full with a small turnover collar, collarless coats high in the neck with and buttonholes all the way down the front but seldom all fastened. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Men’s Fashion

1800s

At the end of the 19th century, men were slowly shaking-off the Victorian influence which still had them wearing hats, frock coats, and pocket while carrying walking sticks.

Although this dress practice seems quite elaborate and restrictive, it was a huge step forward considering the proceeding Georgian period had men wearing feathers, panty hose, and high heels. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Men’s Fashion

1900s

The 1900s brought about a utilitarian and rather unimaginative line of men’s clothing.

While the long, lean, and athletic silhouette of the late 1890s still persisted, the period is characterized by tall, stiff collars, three-piece made of a sack coat with a matching and were worn, as were a matching coat and waistcoat with contrasting trousers, or matching coat and trousers with contrasting waistcoat.

Trousers were shorter than before and often had “turn-ups” or “cuffs” and were creased front and back using the newly-invented trouser press. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Men’s Fashion

1920s

The war had introduced many classic menswear designs still in use today such as trench coats and cargos. After the war, Americans had more money to travel which broadened their horizons culturally and aesthetically; many crossed the pond to England and France, returning with suitcases full of the latest fashions from overseas.

American menswear was influenced most by England; American college students began putting their own spin on pieces being worn at the legendary Oxford University, including - down shirts, natural-shouldered jackets, regimental ties, and colorful . FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Men’s Fashion

1920s

The Prince of Wales (later the Duke of Windsor), was the world’s most important and influential menswear figure; by means of newsreels, newspapers, and magazines, the elegant Prince became the first international “style icon” and was widely known and renowned for his impeccable taste in clothing - a legitimate trendsetter for every day people and it was the first time in history that clothing advertisers would use a celebrity face to sell clothing (“as worn by the Prince”). FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Men’s Fashion

1930s

The Great Depression hit in the beginning of the 1930s and although the average man couldn’t afford to take part in the world of fashion, many enjoyed observing those who could. The Silver Screen became a beacon of hope for the working class man of this era; men and women both admired the elegantly dressed stars like Fred Astaire, Clark Gabel, Cary Grant, and Gary Cooper. This was also the dawn of shirtless sunbathing. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Men’s Fashion

1940s

In the 1940s, war changed everything; the government restricted the use of wool so roomy single-breasted jackets with wide lapels and cuff- and pleat-free pants become the norm as did mass production of ready-to-wear menswear.

Hence, the “trend cycle” in retail began, which was created by clothing manufacturers to make more money and propagated by the magazine industry, also to make more money.

This ultimately pushed the consumer further away from the classical dress of the 1930s; the pressure was to “re- event” himself by purchasing newer styles that were “in fashion.” FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Men’s Fashion

1950s

Conservatism and conformity ruled the 1950s with young men returning from the military anxious to fit in which meant taking on the look that was dominating menswear. Individuality in style was an afterthought, the goal was to look “part of the club” in a boxy sack , oxford shirt, rep tie, and loafers- yet another boost for mass ready-to-wear manufacturers.

Further, the 1950s saw the introduction of the man-made fabrics and nylon, yet another boost to clothing manufacturers (synthetic cloth makes for terrible menswear garments, especially in suiting, natural fibers are always better). The period was dominated by conservative grey suits and minimalist accessories (, pocket square, cigarette, and martini). FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Men’s Fashion

1960s

A revolution of unrest and rebellion arrived in the 1960s with the JFK formality giving way to flared trousers, flower shirts, wide lapels, and other grooviness. Clothing of this era reflected a new attitude, especially with the youth who were more concerned with self- expression and individuality than classical dress. The caught on to this new wave and offered a plethora of styles; it was an “anything goes” period, where often what mattered the most was not what you wore, but what you didn’t wear. This marked the first time in history that grown men wanted to look young and care-free, far from the rules of elegance that were established in the 1930s. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Men’s Fashion

1970s

The early 1970s were a continuation of the late 1960s rebel fashion; for men, this meant bell bottom , tie dye shirts, and military surplus clothing. Popular accessories of the early 1970s for men were homemade, with , , and bracelets being made from all-natural materials such as wood, hemp, and leather. Men started to wear stylish three-piece suits available in a variety of colors characterized by wide lapels, wide legged or flared trousers, and high- rise ; were wider and bolder, and shirt collars became long and pointed as “disco funk” was all the rage. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Men’s Fashion

1980s

Things became a little more serious in the 1980s with broad shoulders framing power ties and in bold colors and graphic patterns- all conveying a new national confidence. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Men’s Fashion

1990s

The early 1990s bridged the 21st century with loose, baggy, silhouettes and the beginning of tattoos and body piercings. This brought back the indifferent anti-conformist approach to fashion and led to the popular casual chic look (t-shirt, distressed jeans, oversized ). FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Men’s Fashion

2000s

Men started to dress up again in the new millennium with much individuality in color, pattern, and style – an influence primarily brought about by hip-hop culture and the European "slim fit" tailoring.

The Internet also made it easier for men to learn about menswear and share their opinions with fellow style enthusiasts, hence, the birth of the first menswear blogs. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Men’s Fashion

2010s

The 2010s have brought us the evolution of the “fashion star” with fashion bloggers becoming the mainstream. “Peacocking” became a menswear term in the early part of the decade for “trying too hard” even though men have generally become more comfortable with subtle, tasteful styling. This period also marked the widespread acceptance of online shopping with access to more brands from all over the world than ever before. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Lastly, let’s summarize each decade. Keep in mind the influential factors of each era such as technology, Hollywood, music, and pop culture. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Decades of Fashion: 1920s

Fashion entered the modern era during the 1920s when women first abandoned the restricting fashions of the past years to wear more comfortable clothes such as short skirts or trousers.

Tubular dresses had evolved into a similar silhouette that now sported shorter skirts with pleats, gathers, or slits to allow motion; undoubtedly, the functional and fun "" look is the most memorable fashion trend of the “Roaring '20s."

Notable for the 1920s: the "” economic boom after WWI Chanel No. 5 perfume (LBD) 1st Macy’s Day Thanksgiving Parade FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Decades of Fashion: 1930s

Although lack of money during the Great Depression affected everyday clothes, Hollywood was an escape from harsh realities; it was the golden age of Escapism and glamour, including fashions on the screen. The bias cut made popular by Jean Harlow was made of silk or and clung to a woman’s curves, highlighting the feminine figure.

Other major fashion innovations during this time were zippers and jewelry popularized by ’s signature faux pearl strands the Great Depression.

Happenings: US official anthem Dust Bowl Monopoly Snow White, Superman, VWs people were broke but didn't dress like it initials engraved or stitched boys wore short and tall socks FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Decades of Fashion: 1940s

Highlights: nylons on the market Cheerios, M&Ms, McDonald’s , Chick-fil-A men- suits, ties, hats women- dresses, skirts (no slacks, but gloves) fur, animal skins red, white, blue FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Decades of Fashion: 1950s

Lucille Ball was the first woman to show her pregnancy on TV in the 1950s which brought new attention to maternity wear.

Highlights: modern credit card color TV, seat belts, Velcro 1st Playboy magazine maternity wear stiletto heels/kitten heels pret-a-porter (ready-to-wear) standardize sizing Code, Conformity, Consumerism “wifey” roles, entertaining, family/home FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Decades of Fashion: 1960s

The 1960s saw a number of diverse trends that mirrored the time's social movements; a style icon of the early 1960s was First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy with her pillbox hats and geometric suits. Fashion was (flat shoes, sleek lines) and hippie chic reigned; the model Twiggy was the queen of mod.

Highlights: Beatles hit US, Woodstock , supermodels (Twiggy) beehive hairdids (Supremes) First Lady Jackie Kennedy Sony and Cher hippie look “anything goes” = greater choices FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Decades of Fashion: 1970s

Counter culture to mod was hippie fashion; the emphasis of their style was comfort and flow, women wore jeans, brightly colored, psychedelic patterns and non-Western inspired clothing.

The 1970s was the age of disco; dresses originated by Diane Von Furstenberg was a staple for the woman going from day to night and platform shoes gave way to mules and ankle-strapped shoes reminiscent of the 1940s.

Highlights: computer floppy disk, VCRs Microsoft and Apple founded Star Wars released polyester, bright colors tight pants, platform shoes “best clothing produced” blending mods with beads, macramé, peace signs FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Decades of Fashion: 1980s

Pop culture infiltrated the 1980s with superstars like introducing risqué trends such as visible straps and wearing underwear as outerwear.

Fashion in the 1980s rejected the non-materialist hippie values that had inspired much of the fashion in the 1970s. People were earning more money, and bigger meant better; the soap opera Dynasty popularized shoulder pads, giving women a "power dress" in the workplace to feel equal to men.

Highlights: Royal wedding on TV ET movie, Michael Jackson’s Thriller Back to the Future movie Oprah Winfrey show is syndicated World Wide Web invented big hair, big shoulder pads, mum jeans gadgets and videos cropped tops FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Decades of Fashion: 1990s

A simple, unkempt grunge look became mainstream fashion in the 1990s where the minimalist aesthetic contrasted to the more elaborate and flashy trends of the 1980s.

Highlights: Magic Johnson HIV eBay founded Harry Potter released JanSport backpacks crimped hair, scrunchies jelly shoes Bandanas, pants in the workplace FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress

History of Fashion

Decades of Fashion: 2000s

In the '00s, fashion and the Arts in general looked to the past for inspiration, arguably more so than in previous decades. Vintage clothing, especially from the 1960s, 70’s, and 80’s became extremely popular and fashion designers even sought to emulate bygone styles in their collections. Early on, there was a continuation of the minimalist look of the 1990s in high fashion. Later, designers began to adopt a more colorful, feminine, excessive, and 'anti-modern' look; name brands became important among young people and many celebrities launched their own lines of clothing. Tighter fitting clothes and longer hair became mainstream for men and women alike. Rap music also had a considerable influence on popular fashion.

Highlights: Anthrax attacks, War in Iraq, 911 Survivor reality show Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Pinterest vintage clothing, minimalist, eco friendly influence of rap music tall t’s, low pants trucker hats