Dr. Windi D. Turner 1 FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress
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Dr. Windi D. Turner 1 FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress History of Fashion Introduction: Fashion has always been a staple as to how we have presented ourselves to the world, and how society has wanted to present men, women, and children to the world. Fashion has been influenced by many different factors throughout history. Course Objective: Expand global awareness related to textiles, apparel, and dress relative to design, production, marketing, and consumption. Goals: What is fashion influence? What are the notable fashion trends during each decade? How did women’s fashion evolve? How did men’s fashion evolve? Materials: 100 years in 100 seconds Wearable Art Awards Show Moments Decade Defining Songs The fashion of politics FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress History of Fashion Early fashion developed out of necessity with people creating apparel that was climate appropriate with the materials available. Clothing evolved from basic necessity to defining: culture socioeconomic conditions and status individual expression visual appeal Fashion involves change, novelty, and context of time, place, and wearer. Fashion influence is a process of "collective selection" whereby the formation of taste derives from a group of people responding collectively to the zeitgeist or "spirit of the times" (Blumer, 1969). Fashion eras and influences: textile availability ethnicity cultural traditions art and music expression military political technology FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress History of Fashion Textile Availability Until international textile trade became common, textile availability by geographic region dictated fabric options and by default, fashion. Artificial silk was first introduced in the 1910s. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress History of Fashion Ethnicity Clothing choices tend to vary by ethnicity as evidenced by Afrocentric fashion and the significant differences in fashion across areas within East Asia and Central Asia. Cultural Traditions Apparel plays an important role as evidenced by Japanese traditional dress and adornment and traditional carnival apparel in various regions. Carnival dress refers to a pageant, festival, or public celebration found all over the world. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress History of Fashion Art There’s a long relationship between art and fashion. We see this with art deco on apparel and more recently with the concept of wearable art. Music There’s a close relationship between music and fashion. From dance costumes for cultural celebrations and performances to modern hip hop, punk rock, and grunge (messy, unkempt, punk). FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress History of Fashion Expression People have long sought to express themselves through fashion, often pushing boundaries toward dress reform to change norms and leading to attacks on fashion. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress History of Fashion Military Undeniably, the military of the world have influenced fashion for the past several hundred years because of the varied terrain and weather encountered by the military as well as the nature of living in one’s uniform. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress History of Fashion Military It’s said the word camouflage originated from the Parisian slang term camoufler (“to disguise”) after the French army employed artists to paint their artillery and observation posts in the now ubiquitous pattern instead of the more traditional white gloved attire in WWI (Banks, 2014). Croatian mercenaries arrived in Paris during the Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648) dressed for battle with bright scarves tied so tight around their necks, they fainted during maneuvers. The French adapted the look, looping the scarves more loosely in a style that became known as “La Croate” and later “La cravate” (Banks, 2014). The white T-shirt was officially designated as part of the U.S. Naval uniform in 1913, as a means to both beat the heat in tropical climates and aboard submarines, and to avoid soiling their uniform while doing dirty jobs (Banks, 2014). FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress History of Fashion Military New airplanes of the 1930s allowed people to fly higher and farther, thus issues of altitude: U.S. Air Force pilots reported headaches and altitude sickness from the glaring sun. Thus, the Army Airs Corps commissioned a new type of eyewear/goggles featuring plastic frames and the classic aviator shape, which reduced the sun’s intensity on pilot’s faces and instruments. Later, a slight remodel emerged in the form of the “Ray-Ban Aviators” with further innovations over the years (Banks, 2014). The British military first wore cargo pants in 1938 as part of their Battle Dress Uniforms (BDU). The original cargo pant style featured one pocket on the side thigh and one on the front hip. Cargo pants were first worn by the U.S. military in the 1940s. Initially, the side cargo pockets were only on paratroopers’ uniforms, providing them with easy access to ammunition and radios (Banks, 2014). FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress History of Fashion Military No other item of outerwear embodies heritage British style as much as the trench coat. The piece is practically synonymous with the Burberry and Aquascutum brands. For the latter, the history dates to 1853, when the company produced practical coats for officers fighting in the Crimean War using its patented waterproof wool. For Burberry, Thomas Burberry entered his design to the War Office in 1901 for an officer’s raincoat made using his very own patented cotton gabardine fabric featuring large lapels, convertible collar, and epaulets (Banks, 2014). The “pea” in pea coat derived from the Dutch word “pije,”which references the type of cloth used (coarse twilled blue cloth fabric with a nap on one side) -first made popular in the 16th century and favored by the naval powered Dutch. It was aesthetically pleasing yet durable and warm thanks to the double-breasted nature of the construction, large lapels and vertical pockets. Quickly, the coat was mimicked and slightly modified depending upon the amount of wool needed and the region where one was sailing (Banks, 2014). FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress History of Fashion Military Most airplanes during WWI didn’t have enclosed cockpits so the daring sharpshooters in the sky had to be outfitted with coats suitable for high-speeds and icy climates. Although the British Army favored long leather coats, the U.S. Army established the Aviation Clothing Board in 1917 and began distributing heavy-duty leather flight jackets. They featured high wraparound collars, zipper closures with wind flaps, snug cuffs, and waists. In 1931, the U.S. Air Corp issued the A2 Bomber Jacket made of seal skin leather and cotton lining. As the requirement for these jackets grew, supplying seal skin was impractical so the jacket was made of horsehide (Banks, 2014). Designed by a German doctor, Klaus Martens, during WWII while on leave from the army due to an ankle injury suffered while skiing in the Bavarian Alps. Martens noticed that his bum foot needed extra comfort that his military-issue boots did not provide. He partnered with Dr. Herbert Funck and tinkered with softer leather and cushioned soles (Banks, 2014). FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress History of Fashion Political First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis represented style and sophistication of the 1960s and is credited with making politics fashionable. Princess Diana is considered to be the fashion icon of the 1980s and 1990s. Consider these headlines during the recent US Presidential campaign: “How Donald Trump’s Clothes Reinforce His Campaign” Time; August 4, 2016 “How Hillary Clinton Ended the Clothing Conversation” New York Times; January 20, 2016 FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress History of Fashion Technology Once upon a time, fashion and technology were “just friends.” Now, fashion week has expanded to 52 fashion weeks with real time for what’s trending. We now have 3D printing capabilities and technology is embedded in apparel. Early technology brought us zippers in the 1930s and nylon stockings in the 1940s. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress History of Fashion Simply put: people change and the new replaces the old. People are greatly influenced by: popular culture athletes musicians movie stars politicians royalty popular films/movies/television shows books music fashion industry’s advertising FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress History of Fashion Let’s take a look at the evolution of women’s fashion beginning with the 18th century. By no means are the preceding pages an inclusive listing of women’s fashion- just some interesting innovations. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress History of Fashion Women’s Fashion In the years preceding the French Revolution, fashion was characterized by great abundance, elaboration and intricacy in clothing designs. Marie Antoinette, iconic fashion figure, embodies the decadence of the time. 18th Century The "Louis heel" was fashion-forward shoes of the mid-18th century with high, curved heels made of fabric or leather, with separate shoe buckles. The height of heels have been seen as economic indicators; the higher the heel, the wealthier a nation. Panniers (side hoops that extended the width of a dress while keeping the front and back relatively flat) were worn with formal gowns at court. FCSE 3080 Dress and Humanity Part 2: Fashion in Dress History of Fashion Women’s Fashion Following the French Revolution, most did not want to be associated with the aristocracy or the decadence of the fashion previously worn by the aristocrats, so fashions adopted simpler silhouettes.