BLACK LEAVES FERRAGAMO/2 NICOLE MILLER’S 3RD DATE/8 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • August 13, 2007 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear

New Look CHICAGO — Underwear as outerwear may be a cliché, but it works like a charm for . The New York- based Interscope recording artist took a few moments backstage at Lollapalooza to frolic in some bold, bright pieces. Here, she wears Dolce & Gabbana’s elastic, acetate and polyamide briefs and a mirrored of her design with a Madame V belt and Christian Louboutin shoes. For more on the performer, see pages 6 and 7. LED BY MONICA SCHWEIGER LED BY

Revamping Aquascutum: U.S. Return Seen Key to Brand Overhaul By Samantha Conti the Thirties through the Fifties, Goodman, and will hit the shop LONDON — Aquascutum is ready for including pieces worn by past floor in mid-August. its comeback. clients such as Marlene Dietrich, The American relaunch is The British brand will return Bette Davis, Audrey Hepburn a key plank in Aquascutum’s to the U.S. this fall with a limited and Sophia Loren. The collection, revitalization plan, which is edition collection of coats and Aquascutum Vintage, will be sold being overseen by Kim Winser, trenches inspired by designs from in the U.S. exclusively at Bergdorf See Aquascutum, Page 10 PHOTO BY JOSIE MINER; HAIR BY AARON LIGHT/CELESTINE TALENT; MAKEUP BY ALFRED LESTER/FORD; FASHION ASSISTANT: LINDSAY SEGAL; STY LINDSAY ASSISTANT: ALFRED LESTER/FORD; FASHION MAKEUP BY AARON LIGHT/CELESTINE TALENT; JOSIE MINER; HAIR BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 13, 2007 WWD.COM Black Exits Ferragamo WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear By Samantha Conti LONDON — Graeme Black, head women’s wear designer at Ferragamo, FASHION has left his post, WWD has learned. When singer Lady GaGa came to Chicago to play Lollapalooza, her Neither Black, nor a Ferragamo 6 HotPants and high boots got her in hot water with the law. spokesman could be reached for comment. GENERAL Black fi rst joined Ferragamo in Aquascutum will make its U.S. comeback this fall with a limited edition 2001 as chief women’s wear designer. coat collection inspired by designs from the Thirties through the Fifties. He quit the company in 2004 following 1 the appointment of Nathalie Gervais The Bush administration said it’s raising civil fi nes against employers as the fi rm’s creative director. 2 who hire undocumented workers and tightening identifi cation methods. But he returned six months later, Bulgari has tripled its South Coast Plaza retail footprint with a new dual- in 2005, as head of women’s wear on a consultancy basis. His last collection 3 concept store opening today in one of the California mall’s power alleys. for Ferragamo will be for spring 2008. Black launched his eponymous Classifi ed Advertisements...... 13-15 label for fall 2005, together with business partner Jonathan Reed. An To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. industry source said Black intends [email protected], using the individual’s name. to focus increasingly on his own WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT line, and will likely base himself in ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. London. His luxury collection, which VOLUME 194, NO. 32. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one is made in Italy, is sold at stores additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance including Saks Fifth Avenue and Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Browns in London. Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Before joining Ferragamo, Black Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail worked at Giorgio Armani, where he Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return was head designer of the Borgonovo Graeme Black undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: collection. SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list Immigration Move Puts Pressure on Employers available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, By Kristi Ellis regulatory authority to crack president and government re- OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, down on illegal immigration. lations counsel at the National BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR WASHINGTON — The Bush ad- Chertoff ’s agency took the lead Retail Federation. “Now that CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR ministration is taking matters Friday by issuing a fi nal “no- it hasn’t happened, they went DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY into its own hands to curb ille- match” regulation, in which the ahead and did this.” A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. gal immigration without help Social Security Administration Oesterle said the new rule from Congress. will send an employer a letter will increase the pressure on Homeland Security in cases where the business retailers and other companies MONDAY: The U.S. Commerce Department releases the Secretary Michael Chertoff and has a signifi cant number of em- to determine why an employee’s July retail sales report. Commerce Secretary Carlos ployees with inaccurate Social Social Security number does Gutierrez said Friday they are Security numbers. not match up with the govern- TUESDAY: The Commerce Department releases the June raising civil fi nes against em- The “no-match” letter will ment’s database. She also said foreign trade report. ployers who hire undocument- warn employers they may be the rule clarifi es what “know- The U.S. Labor Department releases the Producer ed workers, forcing employers held liable if they ignore prob- ing” means in the agency’s stan- Price Index for July. to resolve identification dis- lems by failing to take specifi ed dards relating to “knowingly” Fossil Inc. and Wal-Mart Stores Inc. report second- crepancies and overhauling steps within 90 days of receiv- hiring illegal immigrants. quarter sales and earnings. temporary worker programs. ing the letter. The agency said “This is a defi nitive rule and The administration’s move on Friday that the regulation takes if the issue cannot be resolved WEDNESDAY: Trafik Tradeshow, Miami Beach (through the immigration front comes in effect in 30 days. within 90 days, the only way em- Friday). the wake of the Senate’s failure The Labor Department releases the Consumer Price in June to pass a sweeping bill Index for July. to overhaul the immigration sys- Macy’s Inc. reports second-quarter sales and earn- tem. The Senate bill would have I think [the Department of Homeland ings. given citizenship to most of the “ estimated 12 million immigrants Security] held off a long time on issuing THURSDAY: Elizabeth Arden Inc. and Estée Lauder Cos. who are in the U.S. illegally, report fourth-quarter and year-end sales and earnings. cracked down on employers who this rule because everyone assumed there Kohl’s Corp. and Inc. report second-quar- hire them, established a guest ter sales and earnings. worker program and provided would be comprehensive reform going billions of dollars in funding for SATURDAY: Atlanta International Apparel & Accessories border security. through Congress. COMING THIS WEEK Market, Fashion Market of San Francisco and Fashion But Democratic leaders — Elizabeth Oesterle,” National Retail Federation Industry Gallery, Dallas, holiday and resort markets failed to get enough support (through Aug. 21). from Republicans, many of whom claimed the legislation “I think [the Department of ployers can protect themselves SUNDAY: Fashion Center Dallas Apparel & Accessories provided “amnesty” for illegal Homeland Security] held off a from being fi ned or worse by Market (through Aug. 22). immigrants, to advance the bill long time on issuing this rule the DHS is to let the person go,” for fi nal passage. because everyone assumed said Oesterle. On Friday, Chertoff and there would be comprehensive The big rub for businesses is Gutierrez said they will use and reform going through Congress,” that government databases are expand tools within their own said Elizabeth Oesterle, vice not foolproof and employers might be forced to let legitimate In Brief employees go due to inaccura- cies. As part of the broader plan unveiled by the two cabinet sec- ● GOTTSCHALKS CHANGE: Jim Famalette, president and chief retaries, civil fi nes on employ- executive officer of the Fresno, Calif.-based Gottschalks, has Shapewear ers who “knowingly” hire illegal assumed the additional role of chairman, succeeding Joseph immigrants will increase by as Levy, who is retiring. Levy, a member of the Gottschalks found- much as 25 percent. ing family, will continue to serve the regional chain as a di- A Global Resource with... “Efforts to secure the border rector and chairman emeritus. In addition, Gottschalks named • Niche Market • Trend Forward Designs • Quick Response • In Stock will fail unless the ‘magnet’ that Gregory Ambro as executive vice president and chief operating Always a Leader in Innovative Design and Manufacturing! attracts illegals is turned off,” officer, and Daniel Warzenski as vice president of finance and Call...(800) 982-1113 DHS said in a summary released chief financial officer. Ambro was chief administrative and fi- or Visit our Website www.ragoshapewear.com Friday. “Unfortunately, the fi nes nancial officer and Warzenski was vice president of finance. U.S. SHOWROOMS: for relying on illegal workers are Gottschalks, which operates 59 department stores and four spe- 183 Madison Avenue, NYC • Atlanta • Chicago • Dallas • Los Angeles • Miami so modest that some companies cialty apparel stores, continues to examine strategic alterna- INTERNATIONAL OFFICES AND AGENTS: Capetown • Frankfurt • Istanbul • London • Paris • Seoul • Tokyo treat them as little more than a tives to maximize shareholder value. cost of doing business.” WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 13, 2007 3 WWD.COM

and his pregnant fi ancée, Salma Hayek, who is only mentioned briefl y. But the second issue wasn’t produced MEMO PAD without its share of turmoil. As reported last week, editor in chief Joanne Lipman dismissed SMOKE ’EM IF YOU’VE GOT ’EM: A few months deputy editor Jim Impoco after numerous ago, 41 members of Congress sent out a clashes. Meanwhile, the New York Observer plea, in letter form, asking certain women’s reported Friday that embattled senior writer magazines to stop accepting “misleading and investigative reporter Kurt Eichenwald had advertising for deadly cigarettes” and, more resigned. Calls to Portfolio were not returned specifi cally, to stop running the Camel No. as of press time. — Stephanie D. Smith 9 ad from R.J. Reynolds Tobacco Co. The letter claimed the hot pink ad was developed DOT (NEW)COMER: Glamour’s Web site has to encourage young women to smoke. hired new editor Anne Sachs from ellegirl. Apparently, among Cosmopolitan, Elle, com, where she was executive editor. Sachs Glamour, In Style, Vogue, W, Lucky and Marie will help manage the growing site, which Claire, the only response Congress garnered this summer has been adding blogs by was a phone call from Glamour’s editor in the minute. The latest include “Storked,” chief, Cindi Leive, followed by a letter. penned by a pregnant 26-year-old and soon- So a second batch of letters was recently to-be single mother. On Friday, blogger Perez sent out, this time clearly asking for a Hilton began contributing “Pereztastic” — a response by Wednesday. A spokeswoman for weekly guest blog providing his trademark Congresswoman Lois Capps (D., Calif.), one snarky commentary on celebrity fashion, Inside Bulgari’s South of the leaders on the issue, was perplexed though a quick perusal of his glamour.com Coast Plaza store.

PHOTO BY ROBERT BROOKS ROBERT PHOTO BY at the lack of contact the offi ce has received content turned up more tame blog entries to date, although a Vogue spokeswoman than the harshly critical opinions he often pointed out Congress did not clearly request shares on Perezhilton.com. This fall, a response in its fi rst letter. Regarding glamour.com also will roll out a political blog Bulgari Expands in Costa Mesa that statement, Capps’ spokeswoman said: featuring commentaries on the presidential “When people get letters from Congress, they campaigns. — S.D.S. generally respond.” And, while this topic is debatable, A MOSS IN THE GARDEN: On his upcoming With 2nd Dual-Concept Store what’s certain this time around is that if guest editorship of House & Garden, Murray magazines don’t play ball with Congress, Moss — who The New York Times recently By Rachel Brown light maple wood covers the floors there are several options on the table, such described as being “widely acknowledged and counter displays in the jewelry as a hearing or drafting legislation. One to be the king of high-design retailing in ulgari SpA has more than tripled and timepiece side, and tans, creams, media observer pointed out that tobacco this country” — is already trying his hand Bits South Coast Plaza retail foot- whites and bursts of burnt orange ads represent a small percentage of most at magazine-ready metaphors. “I thought, print with a new dual-concept store characterize the palette for the side magazines’ overall advertising, and said titles it’s like acting,” he said. “You get to play opening today in one of the Costa Mesa, with the broader accessories assort- such as Vogue aren’t breaking any laws by the part of editor in chief of a magazine, Calif., mall’s power alleys. ment. The two sides are connected at publishing Camel No. 9 ads. “Bring on the but there’s a beginning, a middle and an Situated in a corridor anchored by the rear of the store. legislation,” added the observer. It appears end.” And then again: “I needed to curate Nordstrom and punctuated by shops The expansion in accessories in- Congress’ second letter-writing campaign is it, because that’s what I do. I needed it to belonging to Chanel, Mikimoto, Tiffany ventory will expose locals to the full gaining more steam, as Kim France, editor be an exhibition. Everything in the room & Co., Hermès, MaxMara and Fendi, extent of Bulgari’s offerings outside in chief at Lucky, said she is planning to relates. I needed to be a through-line, so that the 2,600-square-foot location on the of jewelry and watches. In its prior respond to the second letter, while the everything in the book makes sense, like a fi rst level dwarfs Bulgari’s former 700- incarnation, the Bulgari store carried Vogue spokeswoman said it has sent a letter, novel. I wanted to have my say on a subject square-foot spot a fl oor above. It also only six handbag styles, compared with but declined to disclose its contents. A that’s actually a complete narrative.” marks the brand’s second dual-concept around 100 in the new store. spokeswoman for W said the magazine is The guest editorship, a fi rst for both store containing separate entrances Handbags run from $700 for a light- working on a letter and will reply this week. Moss and the magazine, came about in part for jewelry and timepieces and acces- weight sporty canvas purse to $6,450 A Hearst spokeswoman didn’t comment on through the style maven’s long friendship sories such as handbags, small leather for a camel ostrich tote, while sun- whether its magazines are responding to with House & Garden’s design director, Wendy goods, ties, fragrances and sunglasses. glasses are priced from $350 to $700. Congress, but said: “At the moment, our Goodman, and will be for the January issue. “This is an important milestone for Jewelry and watches start at $700 and policy regarding cigarette advertising is He’ll squeeze it into his newly bicoastal life Bulgari in the because $1,500, respectively, but price tags can that the decision on whether to accept or — a Los Angeles branch of his store opened Southern California fi ts within our strate- rise into the many millions of dollars. reject it is at the discretion of our individual just over a week ago. But that doesn’t mean gy, which has been to reinforce our pres- The most expensive items are show- publishers.” At In Style, a spokeswoman he’s stopped searching for new frontiers. He ence in the country by fi nding the market cased in fi ve upright displays and 11 said management is aware of the letter from plans to visit the Nymphenburg Palace in that best fi ts our constant commitment wall insets in the store’s jewelry and Congress and added the July, August and Germany in the near future for the magazine. [to] high quality, style and design,” watch side, as well as in the store’s ex- September issues combined carry only two Moss conceded rather modestly, “I do think Francesco Trapani, chief executive of- terior windows. pages of tobacco advertising. Elle did not they’re mad to have me do it.” — Irin Carmon fi cer of Bulgari, said in a statement. Bulgari’s fi rst twin store was un- respond by press time. — Amy Wicks The relocation in South Coast Plaza veiled last March in Chevy Chase, Md., OOPS…WON’T DO IT AGAIN: The Bitten is intended to multiply the store’s and the concept is scheduled to spread SECOND COMING: After four months of by Sarah Jessica Parker handbag used walk-in traffic by perhaps as much to the Town Center mall in Boca Raton, gestation — and media critics sharpening to illustrate a story about unauthorized as fi ve times. The Plaza’s shops regu- Fla., this fall. After reopening its fl ag- their knives — Condé Nast Portfolio will copies, “Senate Joins Knockoff Battle,” larly rank among jewelry and fashion ship on New York’s Fifth Avenue in drop its September edition on newsstands in Thursday’s New York Times, was brands’ top one or two performing March, Bulgari has 14 stores in the Wednesday with profi les on both blue- “inadvertently” produced, said Steve & units. The mall’s co-founder, Henry U.S. and 232 worldwide, 136 of which blooded and well-tailored industries. The Barry’s, the low-priced chain that exclusively Segerstrom, said in an interview ear- are corporately owned. business magazine’s cover story will focus sells the Bitten collection. In the story by lier this year that annual sales per Bulgari’s sales in the U.S. climbed on Cerberus Capital, the investment group Eric Wilson, the Bitten City handbag, priced square foot exceed $1,000, closely be- 18.8 percent in the fi rst half of this year that took over car manufacturer Chrysler at $9.95, was shown beside Anna Corinna’s hind the nation’s leading Forum Shops versus the same period a year earlier Group. And, as City Bag model, which ranges in price from at Caesars Palace’s estimated annual and accounted for 17 percent of global a fashionable $384 to $480, with the implication the sales per square foot of $1,300. revenues. In total, the Italian jeweler counterbalance, higher-priced handbag inspired the design Designed by the company’s in-house posted an 8.9 percent sales increase Portfolio also of the lower-priced one. “A prototype of team, the Bulgari store’s coloring is to $634.1 million, based on average ex- has a 10-page a bag Sarah Jessica Parker and the Bitten considerably lighter than its prede- change rates, in the fi rst half of this year feature on design team never approved for production cessor’s. The exterior is beige marble; from the same period the previous year. François-Henri was inadvertently produced by Steve & Pinault, head of Barry’s,” Howard Schacter, chief partnership PPR, owner of offi cer, said in a statement. “When the error Gucci Group and was discovered, production of the bag was Ann Taylor CFO James Smith Resigns recent acquirer immediately stopped. It was never put on of active brand sale at Steve & Barry’s stores, and images NEW YORK — AnnTaylor Stores Corp. said James M. Smith, executive vice Puma. The story, of it were eliminated from all marketing president and chief financial officer, has resigned to “pursue other interests.” written by Nancy materials. This unfortunate incident has The company is searching for a replacement. Smith, who has been at Ann Hass, outlines resulted in Steve & Barry’s examining its Taylor for 14 years, agreed to stay on until the end of September or until PPR’s business entire production process and making the women’s specialty chain appoints a new cfo, whichever is earlier, the strategy, which includes emphasizing its appropriate changes to help ensure this type company said. brands instead of the designers who create of error doesn’t happen in the future.” “We are grateful to Jim for his service to the company over the past 14 years,” them, but also details the relationship and Wilson said Steve & Barry’s requested Kay Krill, Ann Taylor president and chief executive offi cer, said in a statement. passing of the torch between Pinault and The Times publish a clarifi cation, but the “We are pleased that he has agreed to stay on to support a smooth transition.” his father, François, and the challenges at newspaper declined. “They contacted me His resignation comes one day after the retailer announced weaker-than-ex- PPR divisions Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, and asked for that, but it was not wrong what pected July comps, hurt by light traffi c and fashion blunders at the company’s where, Hass writes, “Pinault will not name we showed,” he said. “All the images came more casual Ann Taylor Loft stores. a year, much less a quarter,” that the YSL from Fashionista.com.” July same-store sales fell 5 percent from the year-ago period. By division, division will turn a profi t. But those scouring A photo of the handbag appeared previously comparable-store sales for Ann Taylor dropped 2.5 percent in the 2007 period, the magazine more for gossip than news will in The Times, on June 20, in a Q&A with and Ann Taylor Loft comps tumbled 9.3 percent from 2006. be disappointed: Not much is revealed about Parker written by Cathy Horyn. The photo was — Molly Fergus the relationship between the young Pinault credited to Steve & Barry’s. — Sharon Edelson 4 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 13, 2007 WWD.COM Macy’s Retro Facelift in South Beach

By Rebecca Kleinman MIAMI BEACH — Macy’s is on a mission here. Macy’s Florida reopened its South Beach store at 1675 Meridian Avenue Saturday with great fanfare after a major seven-figure renovation and remerchandising in concurrence with its researched demographics. The store had been closed since March. To hear Robert Unger, senior vice president of store design and visual presentation, describe the project’s physical changes and modern retail strategies is exciting for a community that relies on one department store, and marks a defi nite departure from the division’s 61 locations throughout Florida and Puerto Rico. “The South Beach store is a unique entity. There is no prototype,” he said of the 1953 freestanding building between Lincoln Road and the Miami Beach Convention Center that initially housed Burdines until Macy’s folded the Florida chain into its fl eet. “Our goal was to restore it back to the original, Fifties modern intent.” The layout alone is progressive, as Unger reports it’s the company’s smallest, two-story branch in Florida with approximately 90,000 square feet of selling space. The interior was gutted, save the elevator and expensive Sheetrock ceiling, rare by today’s standards, according to Macy’s Unger, sculpted on the fi rst fl oor to replicate the Gulf Stream. beauty and “The decoration was too important to demolish. It’s by Raymond accessories Loewy, a famous, midcentury industrial designer departments who created the store’s interiors,” said Unger. in the The exterior was wholly restored to architect renovated Robert Law Weed’s design, such as reopening South Beach darkened windows along 17th Street for 30 store. percent more glass frontage; cleaning up the two- JOSEPH PESSAR PHOTOS BY foot, stainless steel fascia; replacing hurricane shutters with hurricane glass to expose the “Branding is big. We let the customer know where to fi nd goods, whether Calvin formerly concealed canopy, and repainting in a Klein, our largest vendor here across the board, Lacoste or Lancôme,” said Unger. historically accurate soft white. More novelties All sections were relocated except shoes due to the stockroom, and home was are its rosy marble facade and famous “Sunshine removed altogether to make room for the second fl oor’s swimwear, intimates and ” sign in white neon. women’s, junior and children’s apparel. Women’s rtw additions are Michael Michael “It’s the only Macy’s with the original Kors, Lauren by Ralph Lauren and Paris Hilton’s junior collection, along with an Burdines marketing handle, which the city was expanded selection of dresses and the company’s private label, INC. The shoe very supportive in us keeping,” said Unger. department doubled in size with a better assortment including Marc by Marc Jacobs, The Fifties ode rolls on with midcentury- Coach and Betsey Johnson. inspired, decorative accessories such as Sputnik For shoes, geometric carpeting and comfortable side chairs in black and white chandeliers that line the widened main aisle; or green and white fall in line with the decor’s retro eclectic trend infl uenced clusters of tropically colored, odd-shaped vases by interior designers such as David Hicks, Jonathan Adler and Kelly Wearstler. that top glass cases, and the odd prop, from tub More contemporary-patterned carpet appears in pale blue and beige in women’s chairs to Vespas to Loewy’s framed, fanciful rtw, and intimates follows the Venetian mirror craze with etched leaf motifs sketches. Unger looked to the Fifties’ palette in on mirrors with ornate frames. Assortment is better, as well, with lines such as choosing department hues such as ice pink for Wacoal, Jezebel and Jenni. cosmetics, coral for women’s ready-to-wear and parrot green for women’s shoes. “We decorated intimates to be very feminine with glass jars of butter yellow and pale Each section has individual fl air. Though white, polished porcelain tile runs along pink rose petals, soft draping and sensuous mannequins,” said Unger. much of the two fl oors, the men’s Polo shop has pine planks, and cosmetics features a Melissa Goff, operating vice president of events, marketing and public relations for pink marble stripe. At the store’s request for an unobstructed view and classic setup, Macy’s Florida, said the company expects signifi cant increases due to more upscale cosmetics vendors complied with lowering partitions to a 42-inch height. Unger reports merchandise, but wouldn’t divulge sales estimates. its new inventory boasts Chanel’s and Shiseido’s fi rst South Beach doors and Macy’s “We want this store to be our fashion icon, and let people know we’re back and we’re premiere Bobbi Brown shop-in-shop in South Florida. hot,” said Unger. Coldwater Creek Brings Natural Vibe to Manhattan By Sharon Edelson Coldwater Creek, which has shunned downtown The Manhattan store has shops for dresses, spa ap- locations in major cities, is now looking to move into parel and Spirit, Coldwater’s more expensive collec- NEW YORK — Coldwater Creek has opened its first more urban areas. “It’s just a matter of the real es- tion, which uses better fabrics and has more detailing. Manhattan store, a 15,000-square-foot flagship, on tate,” said a spokeswoman. “Our footprint is rather Priced 40 percent above the core line, Spirit launched Third Avenue and 68th Street in large, which makes it a little more dif- in February and is offered in 38 stores. Complete out- the heart of some of the wealthiest fi cult. We’re very close to the metro fi ts are displayed throughout the store. A sand-colored zip codes in the city. areas of downtown cities, but just Spirit linen sweater for $149 was paired with $98 jeans The store has a natural Pacifi c haven’t found the right places. We ab- and a tapestry jacket, $98. Northwest vibe with wooden grids solutely want to be there.” Two cities Coldwater’s customer is not trendy by any means. on the ceilings, a water wall and the retailer is eyeing are Los Angeles “She’s never going to be a fashion leader,” Georgia wrought iron lighting fixtures. and Chicago. Shonk-Simmons, president and chief merchandising of- Throws with Southwestern mo- The company reached $1 billion in fi cer, admitted. “But she wants to look modern. We give tifs, patchwork quilts and decora- sales with 244 Coldwater Creek units her fashion touches. The prints are ours exclusively. tive plates are merchandised with and, Pence said, “there’s the potential With everything I do, it’s important that it’s pretty.” apparel — in natural colors such for 500 stores.” The retailer squarely targets Baby Boomers, the as olives, browns and rust — to By the end of the year, 65 same group claimed by retailers such as Chico’s and emphasize the lifestyle aspect Coldwater Creek stores will be Talbots. “Coldwater Creek has a distinct look and of- Coldwater is trying to develop. A added and Coldwater Creek, The Spa fers a great value,” said Montagna, “and the product display of lemongrass candles fi lls units will be unveiled. “I had con- looks reasonably sophisticated.” the air with the scent. cerns about the spas, that the ser- The Sandpoint, Idaho-based vice wouldn’t mirror the service in retailer has 13 stores ring- Coldwater stores,” said Pence. “Repeat business ing Manhattan, in New , Creek’s Third is awesome.” There’s a market for 200 Long Island, Staten Island and Avenue store. spas in the U.S., he said, but how rap- Connecticut. idly the chain rolls out depends on “We know exactly where pre- how long it takes the spa business to existing customers reside,” said Dennis Pence, found- achieve profi tability. er, chairman and chief executive offi cer. “There are Mark Montagna, an analyst at CL King & Assoc., two more locations [we are scouting] in Manhattan. said in a research note that fall merchandise bodes If something pops up in one of these locations, we’ll well for the chain’s prospects in the near future. “The move very quickly.” company has had a laser focus with the reinvigora- Pence declined to project sales volumes for the new tion of its sales and profi t momentum,” he said, add- Coldwater appeals to store, but said Coldwater units generally do more than ing that he anticipates Coldwater growing margins to Baby Boomers looking $500 a square foot. “This customer base [near the fl ag- 15 percent from 8 percent, doubling its store count for comfort and fl air.

ship] would likely be more productive,” he said. and realizing strong comp-store sales increases. BRIGLIA SELWITZ HEATHER PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 13, 2007 5 WWD.COM Guthy-Renker Signs Two Celebrity Hairstylists By Rachel Brown hair to Caucasian hair, and Wen “It is one of those things 3.99 pounds, or $8. A limited does that.” where we hope it becomes a long- Saunders Teams With Boots edition palette will hit stores uthy-Renker is getting into McMillan would not divulge term sustainable brand,” Van De LONDON — Jonathan Saunders is in November. Ghair care. the details Bunt said of putting his stamp on cosmetics. In the past, 17 has collabo- After hitting it big in skin of the prod- McMillan. The hip Scottish designer, rated with designer labels such care with Proactiv Solution and ucts he is in- “We feel who shows in London, has as Eley Kishimoto and Karen makeup with Sheer Cover, Guthy- troducing in comfort- teamed with Boots the Chemists’ Walker. Renker has entered into partner- the Guthy- BEAUTY BEAT able. If our 17 brand to create a limited edi- ships with two Los Angeles-based Renker systems are tion color collection dubbed 17 Fragrance Shop Appoints Webb celebrity hairdressers, Chris spots, which he said will likely really good, we are pleased with by Jonathan Saunders. The line LONDON — U.K. beauty chain McMillan and Chaz Dean. start running in March. He indi- people’s trust in us.” of four lipsticks and four eye The Fragrance Shop has ap- Ben Van De Bunt, a principal cated celebrities would be in the Guthy-Renker generated shadows was inspired by the pointed Tom Webb head of at Guthy-Renker, described the ads, but did not release names. $1.5 billion in sales last year, al- designer’s fall-winter collection. marketing and public relations. moves as purely opportunistic. “Healthy hair is basically most half attributed to Proactiv The line, which features pack- Webb previously held positions “[Hair care] hasn’t been an area what we are after. We are going Solution. Guthy-Renker’s other aging decorated with graphic at Ernst & Young, Tetra Pak and where other [direct-response to make women love their hair beauty brands generate $40 mil- prints, will launch in Boots Rothmans. The chain, which fi rms] have done a lot, but it wasn’t again,” he said. “Guthy-Renker lion to $150 million in revenues stores in the U.K. in September. has about 100 doors in the U.K., part of a grand plan to dominate is letting me be in charge of ev- annually, with Sheer Cover Eye shadows will sell for will launch a transactional Web here,” he said. “It was more that erything. They are letting me being the largest revenue driver 2.99 pounds each, or $6 at cur- site in 2008 and sees future Chaz showed success on QVC, and have creative free reign.” outside of Proactiv. rent exchange, and lipsticks for store openings. Chris has a ton of credibility.” Guthy-Renker’s introductory forays into hair care could hard- ly contain more star wattage — Jamie-Lynn Sigler, Julianna Margulies, Neve Campbell, Jennifer Aniston, Mischa Barton and Lindsay Lohan are among McMillan and Dean’s faithfuls. Dean said he shot the spots for Guthy-Renker from April to

Chaz Dean

Chris McMillan June, and they could air as early AUGUST 27-29, 2007 as September. The infomercials are centered around Wen, a hair THE VENETIAN RESORT HOTEL and body care line he fi rst devel- oped 14 years ago, and feature OVER 450 JURIED LINES OF BETTER ACCESSORIES various celebrities, including co-host Melissa Gilbert, Jennie SUNDAY & MONDAY 9:30-6:00 TUESDAY 9:30-5:30 Garth and Ming Na. • Dean originally approached ATTEND: 866-696-6020 EXHIBIT: 212-710-7408 Guthy-Renker, based in Palm • Desert, Calif., two years ago, WWW.ACCESSORIESTHESHOW.COM about the same time that his rela- tionship kicked off with QVC. He said the initial reaction was skep- ALSO REMEMBER TO VISIT THE DEBUT OF MODA LAS VEGAS tical, but he added the fi rm was convinced by his performance on WITH OVER 350 JURIED-READY-TO-WEAR LINES. QVC and his products’ resonance once he related their benefi ts to a television audience. “It is a platform for me to be able to explain the damaging ef- fects of shampoo and reeducate people on how to maintain their hair,” Dean said of his TV time. Market Debut “I have been blessed that [Wen] has been embraced by numer- ous people. Really, there aren’t AccessoriesTheShow and Moda Las Vegas are properties of Business Journals, Inc. products out there that cross over from African-American 6 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 13, 2007

Going GaGa

CHICAGO — While singer-songwriter Lady GaGa was in town here to play makes no excuses for her style. “This is my daywear,” she explained, indicating her Lollapalooza, her itty-bitty black HotPants and high boots proved too much for animal-print , pink sequined belt, black spandex and black patent heels one of Chicago’s fi nest. “You need to put your ass up against the fence,” the offi cer bought in a stripper shop. “I’m not comfortable in a T-shirt and jeans.” ordered. “There are children around here.” One citation for indecent exposure The performer, who describes her look as “fi lthy, unacceptable,” makes some later, Lady GaGa remained amused. “There’s a huge festival with people doing pieces herself, shopping at Manhattan’s M&J Trimming. She also buys ready-made cocaine and marijuana, and he’s busting me?” the 21-year-old New Yorker asked, leggings at American Apparel and gear from stripper shops on 42nd Street. “You know adding jokingly, “I really wanted to get cuffed in a jumpsuit.” where they have the 25-cent video booths?” she asked. “Upstairs they have clothes.” Welcome to the wild, wacky world of Lady GaGa, an exhibitionistic performer who Her DJ partner in crime is Lady Starlight, a “30-ish” sister go-go dancer who is turning heads, whether it be for her penchant for wearing underwear as outerwear performed in a neon-green bikini and an Iron Maiden denim vest. or for her catchy, if somewhat recycled, Eighties-infl uenced synth pop songs. Although “When someone sees a girl in a two-piece out on the town, people think she’s a she has no qualms about lowering her keyboard to purposely bend over to reveal ho,” Lady GaGa said. “We think that’s awesome. It’s rock ’n’ roll. [Something more her cleavage, Lady GaGa prefers not to reveal her original name. “She’s not here conservative would be] like David Bowie doing Ziggy Stardust in a sweat suit. No anymore,” GaGa quipped about her alter ego. “She’s covered in sequins.” one wants to see that.” Maybe that’s because her past seems a far cry from the 42nd Street stripper Lady GaGa doesn’t stop with a bikini and black eyeliner. She’ll throw in some shops she frequents for fashion fi nds. GaGa, formerly known as Stefani granny pants underneath for good measure. “It’s got to be funny,” she said of her Germanotta, the daughter of an Internet entrepreneur and a telecommunications everyday attire. “I live for being different.” executive, grew up on the Upper West Side and attended the all-girls Convent of That quirkiness brightened her show, which at times could seem unpolished. At the Sacred Heart with heiress Nicky Hilton. Not surprisingly, it wasn’t a perfect Lollapalooza, a giant disco ball descended into the middle of the stage and Ladies fi t. Gaga got into trouble for hiking up her uniform skirt and wearing Converse GaGa and Starlight stood, frozen arms in the air, complete with fog machine for sneakers. The fact that she arrived for class each day in full makeup and curled campiness. Between songs, they doused their dark tresses with cans of aerosol hair also didn’t go over well. hair spray before attempting to set a stream of spray on fi re. “What are you, a lesbian? No one’s looking at you,” her classmates teased, GaGa “I didn’t want to sing about getting my heart broken or world peace,” said said. “But I’m into theatrics,” she noted. “Every morning I like to look fabulous. I Lady GaGa, who performed in a bra she had glued with rows of mirrors to like to pretend I’m famous.” resemble a disco ball and skimpy black with mirrored trim. “Fashion Though she’s not yet that celebrated, the girl who didn’t fi t in in high school is and attitude and style, that’s what we breathe for. We joke that our full-time getting noticed now — something that sets Lady GaGa aglow. boyfriend is our vanity.” Signed to Interscope Records but yet to release her fi rst album, GaGa, who So Lady GaGa, who’s not above doing some pole-dancing or spastic dance began playing the piano at age four and sneaking out to play coffee houses at 14, moves on stage, sings about partying, hangovers and text messaging boyfriends. gained a following through her cheeky pop-burlesque shows at New York clubs and “It’s a party,” she said. “Everything my [high school] friends made fun of me for is online. Fans could download songs “Boys, Boys, Boys,” “Beautiful, Dirty Rich,” what people want more of,” she said. “More sequins, more spandex, yes, please.” “Disco Heaven” and “Dirty Ice Cream” from her MySpace page. Except, perhaps, one of Chicago’s fi nest. GaGa, who go-gos on the side and takes cues from Cher, David Bowie and , — Beth Wilson; styled by Monica Schweiger WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 13, 2007 7 WWD.COM Jezebel’s nylon and Lycra spandex bustier; Only Hearts’ Lurex and spandex shorts. Emilio Cavallini ; Supplement headband; Madame V cuff.

VPL’s nylon and Lycra top and bottom. Goorin Bros. hat; Carolina Amato gloves; Patricia Field shoes. LINDSAY SEGAL LINDSAY

Lascivious’ polyamide and elastane bra; Madame V’s sequined leather and polyester bikini; Three Dots’ nylon and Patricia Field’s spandex leggings. cotton and spandex bra; Passion Bait’s silk shorts. Emilio Cavallini tights; The Jack Rabbit Collection fanny pack; Madame V fan; Dolce & Gabbana shoes. PHOTO BY JOSIE MINER/MARIA BIANCO REPS; HAIR BY AARON LIGHT/CELESTINE TALENT; MAKEUP BY ALFRED LESTER/FORD; FASHION ASSISTANT: ASSISTANT: ALFRED LESTER/FORD; FASHION MAKEUP BY AARON LIGHT/CELESTINE TALENT; JOSIE MINER/MARIA BIANCO REPS; HAIR BY PHOTO BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 13, 2007 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Nicole Miller Dresses for Her 3rd Date By Karyn Monget woman in her 20s, based on the dating customer, so the Internet needs to be part of the message. We want to create a sense of community, and empower women and cre- icole Miller will be launching a line of for holiday called Nicole Miller ate a [dating] topic that’s meaningful. There’s really no safe Internet forum N3rd Date Collection. involving issues on dating out there.” The 3rd Date name was conceived in-house and inspired by the Salino added the 3rd Date Collection also will be sold at barenecessi- personal dating patterns of women today, many of whom are familiar ties.com, which sells the Nicole Miller Signature lingerie line. with the pearls of wisdom whispered by two entertainment divas: Sarah 3rd Date’s lace Regarding marketing, Konheim said: “Our ad campaign will start with Jessica Parker in “Sex and the City” and Jennifer Aniston in “Friends.” bralette (left) Elle magazine in November. Elle will be going after their readers on its Miller, who introduced the licensed Nicole Miller Signature col- and contouring Web site asking the question, ‘What does 3rd Date mean to you?’” lection of lingerie in 2005, noted the new line was created for plunge bra and The print advertising campaign will be expanded to other fashion books the “way women live their lives today.” Both lingerie lines G-string. yet to be determined, he said. are produced and marketed under license by D2 Delta, a Regarding how the name was created, Konheim said he wanted to de- branding unit of Tel Aviv-based Delta Galil Industries. velop a moniker that evokes the thought of intimacy with products “Lingerie should be exciting and pretty,” Miller said. that have subtle sex appeal for a modern woman, particularly one “The 3rd Date Collection is about those feelings. I wanted it that had big-brand potential. to look feminine and sexy.” “I said to myself, ‘Why in the world would a woman spend more First-year wholesale sales are projected at $3 million to $5 money on another bra?’ and Michelle [Schettino] said, ‘For my third million, said Bud Konheim, chief executive offi cer of Nicole date.’” Schettino is the Miller fi rm’s communications manager. Miller Ltd. The 3rd Date Collection of and coordinating “I got all excited thinking about this third-date thing. What a undies will be sold exclusively at Bloomingdale’s the fi rst sea- great name for a label,” Konheim said. “But I thought, who is it son, and distribution later will be expanded to other major going to appeal to? Michelle is 24 and my wife, Colleen, is 63. I stores, including and Nordstrom, he said. asked Colleen, ‘Would you buy a bra that’s called 3rd Date?’ And The collection will include seven bra styles: a lace she said, ‘In a minute.’ Somebody suggested I should check out balconette, a contouring plunge style, a strapless plunge what my wife does all day long.” number, a padded push-up demi style, a quarter-cup look, a The term “third date” has a range of descriptions, depend- half-moon lace bra and an unconstructed triangle bralette. ing on who is asked. Coordinating bottoms include a , a boy-leg brief, a Erin Wright Bevans, 26, designer and merchandiser of the string bikini, a Brazilian thong and a G-string. There’s line for D2, said, “I consider myself cool and part of young also a suspender belt with clips. New York society. For me, a third date means I’m moving The average retail price for bras will be $50, while our relationship to the next step.” panties will sell for $15. The belt will be $24. Color Schettino said: “I interpret it as a special moment or combinations will be steel blue and onyx, lipstick red a suggestion, of being more comfortable with myself and and onyx, ivory and white and cameo pink paired with a [in] an intimate situation with someone I’m attracted to. paler shade of pink. There also will be solid onyx. It’s anticipation and lots of excitement.” Zack Salino, president of D2, noted a 3rddate.com Salino, 43, said, “The idea was brought to me and I thought Web site will be launched in October. of myself. As a man, I have an underwear drawer and choose “In December, product will be in-store, but we items for a special interview or lunch appointment.” actually won’t sell online,” Salino said. “The idea is “At my age, a third date would mean a drug company to me to be part of a marketing program. The target is a MITRA ROBERT PHOTOS BY — I would need help,” quipped Konheim, 72. Natori Fills the Room for Josie Foundations Launch

The Josie design team: Mia Minji, Claire Wayman, Jocelyn Hazes, Lia Del Figueroa.

Ginny Hershey, Lily Arjomand Aja Passero and of Saks Fifth Nordstrom’s Jennifer Goodwin of Avenue in Dubai. Diane Kantor. Bergdorf Goodman.

ore than 250 retailers and industry executives turned out Mfor the launch of Josie foundations at a cocktail party Tuesday at the Peter White Studio in Manhattan. The collection of bras and coordinating undies of cross- dyed laces, printed laces and seamless microfi ber for spring was presented in a modernistic setting on white mannequins Josie’s mix of in the white-on-white studio overlooking the Hudson River. lace and printed But what made the collection different and fresh was the way foundations. the items were merchandised with at-homewear and active- inspired pieces. The layering pieces include a variety of tunics, tanks, camis, boxers, pull-on pants and baby dolls that double as sundresses. Fabrics include cotton knits, jerseys, organic cot- ton and soft bamboo blends. The color story ranges from neu- tral pales to bold brights and a mélange of prints with laces that have a trompe l’oeil effect. Bras by Josie will retail from $56 to $64, while matching panties will sell for $18 to $34. “It makes an entire inside-out statement, all of the items that can be layered and merchandised together,” said Josie Natori, chief executive offi cer of the Natori Company. She attended the party with her son, Ken, who was named vice president of fi nance in April. Josie’s lifestyle “The idea was to create a complete lifestyle statement, and statement of retail reaction has been very strong to the idea,” she said. Josie Natori with layered pieces. — K.M. her son, Ken. PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 13, 2007 9 WWD.COM Accessories/Legwear Report

fashion item. Now, people are so used to it, it’s season- less. It looks great with white jeans in the summer and sparkles up holiday.” Sparkle Rules From Hands to Toes Jewelry brands took a cue from the runway for fall by presenting strong collections in gray, black and white. By Caroline Tell selection, looking for some new legwear offerings to com- The bracelet is also the season’s major jewelry piece, plement her stock of Chloé and Michael Kors shoes. with fi rms offering the wide cuff in a variety of styles, as DUST OFF THAT BEDAZZLER — IT’S GOING TO BE A “We carry footless from DKNY and Calvin Klein and well as stackable bangles. shiny holiday. we used to carry ,” said Lawson. “But we’re “This holiday is about the wrist,” said Brad Frey, New York’s accessories trade shows held last week trying to fi nd some novelty items, more contemporary. president at showroom DP Accessories. “People are saw an infl ux of fi rms touting all that sparkles for next There are so many dresses for fall plus all the booties, doing multiple cuffs or one big statement piece.” season. Metallics are still faring strongly in and so we know legwear is going to be big.” Sisters Emily and Ashley Green, designers of their new handbags, while oversize, colorful wrist pieces round In handbags, patent leather and metallics are still brand Emily and Ashley, are putting out hematite oversize out fall and holiday jewelry. hot trends for fall, along with animal prints and em- cuffs. “We like to work with a lot of grays and sapphires,” At AccessoriesTheShow at the Jacob K. Javits bossed leather. said Emily Green. Convention Center, novelty legwear remained in high “We’re working a lot in prints like zebra and giraffe, Susan Hanover, designer of her one-year-old epony- demand for holiday, while were turning out to be and snake patterns,” said Gil Mannarini, brand director mous brand, can’t keep enough stock of her stackable a major player for spring. bangles made simply from wire and stones. “Our biggest news is the trouser Each bracelet wholesales for $22. with fancy tops,” said Ed Miccinati, design Lorelei Susan “I started with wire and thought, how could director for StockinGirl. “All these starlets clutches. Hanover I make a bangle with this,” said Hanover. I’ve seen out and about in L.A. and here bracelets. Sparkling Sage’s wide metal cuffs come in all are wearing them. They’re wearing only colors, each with a fl eur-de-lis-inspired design. one at a time or pairing them with sandals Gerard Yosca’s eponymous jewelry house is or a pump. It’s very California.” working gray pearls into his cuffs for holiday. Miccinati offered the girlish ruffled The designer’s bracelets are bigger and more socks in 10 styles. He expects socks to make daring than in previous seasons. up 70 percent of his spring business. Other “People want something big and fabulous, top trends at StockinGirl include metallic and the cuffs are selling great,” said Yosca. “Big over-the-knee and thigh-high socks, as well and over the top is what it’s about. It’s a costume as sheer tights with a heavy, layered leg. jewelry moment. Women who haven’t discov- Spring will see an abundance of the ered it are discovering it, so it’s new and fun.” fi rm’s novelty footies, such as Look From London’s leg- for Elite Models’ Fashion Bags, the retail division of the But not everyone wants to go over the top. Suzanne warmers over metallic . agency. “Patents are also strong for us in reds and blacks.” Levine of the Newton, Mass., store Jubilation, is looking “We love the long-short look on the leg,” said the At Accessorie Circuit, Cynthia Rowley also went ani- for fall and holiday trends’ middle ground. company’s creative director Tony Taylor. malistic this season, showing calfskin leather cross-body “I’m looking for accessories with quality, and that are For spring, the Brooklyn-based brand will push bags with splashes of cheetah print. moderately conservative and not super-edgy,” said Levine. striped and metallic ankle socks the fashionable girl In the clutch category, Lorelei’s natural python piec- Michelle Stone, designer of Citrine by the Stones, will wear with fl ats. es in rose gold and pewter palettes are the big sellers is also layering up with her gold Peace Bangles, while Sana Yassin, owner of the store Fleurt in Dubai, for resort and holiday. Alexis Bittar decorated his signature Lucite bangles browsed Look From London’s collections, hoping to ex- “Our texturized metallics are strong, as well as our with studs and crystals. tend the legwear trend into Middle Eastern territories. bow python bags,” said designer Laurie Kaufman. Lee Angel also showed bangles in swirly blue, “Hosiery isn’t big in Dubai yet, but we follow what’s going Retailers are fi nding metallics versatile. white and green enameled styles. Designer Roxanne on here,” said Yassin. “Fashion is fashion everywhere.” “Metallic is the new neutral,” said Stacey Pecor, Assoulin noted bracelets make up 50 percent of her Melissa Lawson of the Shoe-in chain perused Levante’s president of retailer Olive & Bette’s. “Before, it was a Lee Angel business.

“...we’re with you every step of the way”

legwear

[email: [email protected] tel: (914) 659-6177]

29924SOX_soxland 1 7/12/07 4:22:10 PM 10 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 13, 2007 WWD.COM Aquascutum Shakes Off Dust for U.S. Return Continued from page one It helped that she’d been in this situation before. its president and chief executive officer who joined Winser was lured to Aquascutum from the British brand the British company in spring 2006. Winser’s goal is to Pringle, which she helped convert from a producer turn Aquascutum into another major luxury player, and of dowdy golfwear into a luxury brand. She even was to more than double sales from its current 220 million awarded an Order of the British Empire honor from pounds, or $440 million at current exchange, to 250 mil- Queen Elizabeth II for her work there. lion, or $505 million, by early 2010, with the most growth And, just as at Pringle, Winser quickly grabbed the coming from women’s wear and accessories. Aquascutum organization by its boot straps and gave it a She has her work cut out for her, as even she admit- fi rm shake-up. Over the past year, she’s been overhauling ted in an exclusive interview: “There was no energy left. the brand to mold it into a global luxury goods company. The brand had lost its pace.” Aquascutum still does the bulk of its business in Aquascutum is a traditional British brand — with Japan and the U.K., and its biggest category is men’s all the pluses and minuses. While it is more than 150 wear, but Winser is setting out to change all that. In ad- years old — the brand was founded in 1851 and became dition to pulling the design, product, logistics, market- known for its tailoring and performance fabrics — it ing and pricing under one roof, she’s begun the move also for years has had a musty image that was far from into new markets — including the U.S. — inked licenses, fashionable. Even though there have been repeated at- launched new collections, hired an accessories designer tempts over the last 15 years to revamp the brand, they and unveiled an ad campaign starring Gisele Bündchen all failed as management either left or its Japanese and Jamie Dornan. owner, Renown, pulled back investment to focus on its “We haven’t just done some icing,” she said, sitting in core Japanese operations. This led to contradictions, her dark, wood-paneled offi ce, which still houses some

We are building a substantial, global luxury brand from a top-quality name“ with a wonderful heritage. ” — Kim Winser, Aquascutum

Kim Winser

Winser said: “The brand had a huge global appeal, but of the company’s extensive archives. “We are build- TIM JENKINS PHOTO BY no global structure. Each market was handled locally.” ing a substantial, global luxury brand from a top-qual- The company’s stuck-in-amber condition was even ity name with a wonderful heritage. For the fi rst time, For accessories, Winser has hired designer Sara more galling to some, given that its longtime rival in the we’re designing for a global market, and we are actively Porro, who had been working at Tod’s for the past British trenchcoat business — Burberry — was being thinking about our customers’ lifestyles and needs.” six years and with Anna Fendi before that. Porro successfully reborn as a global luxury player under That is why the relaunch at Bergdorf Goodman is so will remain based in Italy, and her fi rst collection for American ceo Rose Marie Bravo. important to the brand. Aquascutum’s last New York Aquascutum will be for spring. Porro will be working And what Winser found on her arrival at Aquascutum store closed in 2000, but Winser said the market has the alongside rtw designers Michael Herz and Graeme was reminiscent of the situation Bravo inherited. On potential to generate at least 20 percent of overall busi- Fidler on the collections. Winser’s fi rst day at work, she took one look at her of- ness over the next two to three years. She plans to open A women’s shoe collection will bow for fall 2008, fi ce and thought, “No way.” Her new space was in The a fl agship in New York down the road. to be produced under license by Antichi Pellettieri, City, London’s fi nancial district, and nowhere near the The fabrics in the Vintage collection include napa which makes footwear and accessories for Missoni and brand’s fl agship on Regent Street (just as Burberry’s leather, duchesse and double cashmere, and the Vivienne Westwood, among others. Antichi Pellettieri headquarters used to be in Hackney, in east London, styles are sexy and dramatic. The liquid, belted trench- also will be making the bags and small leather goods for miles away from its then-fl agship on Haymarket). es look more like dressing gowns, while the trenchcoat the company. Accessories currently account for about 3 But the dynamic Winser wasted no time. The next dresses are low-cut and curvy. percent of sales, and Winser believes that fi gure could day she moved into the Regent Street store — the staff “Vintage is the diamond of the brand, the top of the shoot to 20 percent in the midterm. quickly carved out some space in the upstairs archive pyramid. It says who we are, and it communicates our Winser is already in talks with licensees for fra- room for her. The switch enabled her to start connect- luxury positioning,” said Winser, who plans to introduce grance, watch and eyewear lines. “It’s going to take a ing with customers on the shop fl oor, and decide how to the full women’s ready-to-wear and accessories collec- while, and I’m not going to choose just anybody. We’re save the brand. tions to the U.S. for spring 2008. going in at the top,” she said. In addition to securing the Antichi Pellettieri li- cense for men’s and women’s shoes, bags and small leather goods, Winser earlier this year inked a license with Novaseta, the accessories company owned by Ermenegildo Zegna, to produce ties and scarves. Winser is also taking the brand into Europe, Russia and the Middle East, with plans for fl agships in Paris and Milan. Aquascutum’s biggest markets right now are Britain, Japan, China and Hong Kong. The brand has fl agships on Regent Street in London and in Tokyo, and another 160 stores and shop-in-shops in Japan. It has 80 stores and shop-in-shops in Hong Kong, Mainland China and South Korea. For fall, Winser also will be introducing a women’s personal tailoring service, which she hopes to take to the U.S. next year. “We already do it for men, and the service for women is really needed in London,” she said. Customers can have dresses, suits and coats made with their choices of fabric, linings and buttons, with prices starting at about 700 pounds, or $1,400, for a suit. Winser said the company already has tailors on site and aims to deliver to customers’ homes or offi ces in two weeks’ time. Winser sees Aquascutum as a “truly sartorial brand,” and believes that fabric is its key point of difference in the market. Indeed, 95 percent of the fabrics in the collections are exclusive to the brand. Herz and Fidler have updated the company’s patented Aqua 5 fabric, a waterproof fabric fi rst launched in 1959. Some of the Aquascutum Vintage designs are made from Aqua 5. The designers have seam-sealed coat and suiting fab- rics, which means even the cashmere overcoats will be as airtight as yachting wear. They’ve also developed Aquamacs, which are full-sized, belted trenches that fold into a pocket-sized pouch. “Fabric innovation is at the heart of Aquascutum,” said Winser. She said the hurdles in her new job are completely Gisele Bündchen different from the old ones at Pringle. “There, we were in an Aquascutum A look for building the foundations of a business. Aquascutum is Vintage ad. fall 2007. already built. It’s now about developing the product and getting the right people in place.” WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 13, 2007 11 WWD.COM Financial Small Businesses Learn to Live With Wal-Mart By Liza Casabona Borofsky, who operates Sam’s Outdoor Outfi tters on Main Street. “They draw a ifferentiation, defining a niche and lot of traffi c. If they steal 5 to 10 percent Dincreased customer service are help- of our traffi c and we steal 2 percent of ing small town business owners survive theirs, who really comes out ahead?” under the shadow of a Wal-Mart. Sam’s, which has been a family-owned Case in point is Brattleboro, Vt. Tucked business since 1932 and includes two other in the southeastern corner of Vermont department store locations in the region, along the borders of New Hampshire sells women’s and men’s apparel, footwear, and Massachusetts, this bucolic town of outdoor gear and sporting goods. 8,000 people seems an unlikely candidate Local business owners who were in to withstand the impact of a retail giant town when the Hinsdale Wal-Mart opened coming to town. But it did more than that said there wasn’t an immediate impact in the wake of the arrival of Wal-Mart on the downtown area. Anecdotally some over a decade ago: The town is thriving. say there were rumors in town that the Vermont was the last state to allow Hinsdale Wal-Mart was one of the most Wal-Mart to build inside its borders, hold- profi table in the country in its fi rst years. ing out for years in an effort to protect But while they are careful to point out that its local economy. However, in the mid- business cycles can’t only be attributed to Nineties Wal-Mart built a store in sales the retail giant’s arrival in the area, most tax-free Hinsdale, N.H., less than two admit it eventually affected business. miles over the Vermont-New Hampshire “I can’t quantify how much was Wal- border from Brattleboro. There are four Mart-related, but it clearly had an im- Wal-Marts in Vermont. pact on downtown [Brattleboro],” said That border is defined by the Don Webster, president of the board Connecticut River running along one side of Building a Better Brattleboro, or of the downtown retail district. The only BaBB, a local nonprofit organization route to the Wal-Mart is through a heavily dedicated to the preservation the down- traveled intersection and bridge located town. Webster also operates a restaurant at the southern end of Main Street. called The River View, which is situated When it fi rst became apparent to town on the Vermont side of the bridge to New businesses and offi cials that Wal-Mart in- Hampshire and the Wal-Mart. tended to build a store in their backyard, The BaBB was established in 1998 by A view of downtown the town did its best to develop a strategy a group of local business owners, mer- Brattleboro, Vt., from the to help them survive. Consultants were chants and local professionals who were New Hampshire side of the hired to advise the existing businesses. concerned about the state of retail in the Connecticut River.

“Everybody was frightened enough to town. At the time, there were more than 20 PHIL SCHERMEISTER/CORBIS PHOTO BY try to fi gure out what to do, and to do it as empty storefronts in Brattleboro, organi- “A downtown is never going to sell around the impact of Wal-Mart. a group. Having a consultant come in and zation members recall. The organization’s itself by trying to portray that it has the “It’s a two-way street. If we give our having the dialogue about what it takes to stated mission is, “to support and nurture lowest prices around….The key is that customers good service and value, they survive were extremely important,” said the economic, cultural, residential and you want the downtown to remain viable reward us with their loyalty,” said Paul Donna Simons, owner of A Candle In the educational environment of the Town of for as many reasons as possible. Good Putnam, owner of Brown & Roberts, a Night, an independent store that sells Brattleboro with primary emphasis on food, good drink and good fun are strong local hardware store. His store has made oriental rugs and furniture. The store downtown. A thriving downtown will serve factors in attracting people. Good park- service a centerpiece of the business has been located downtown since before the goals of the entire community.” ing helps, too,” he said. with longtime, knowledgeable employ- Wal-Mart opened. Since its inception, the BaBB has For the stores that have survived in the ees who know the customers by name, The consultant’s suggestions included acquired $3.1 million in grant funds to downtown district, good business practic- Putnam said. Wal-Mart isn’t known for its focusing on customer service, retooling improve the town infrastructure, admin- es have also been key to their survival. hardware department, and what tools it inventory, expanding operating hours, istered a program to do facade improve- Early on, Borofsky said he took note does sell are often lower grade and come improving return policies and fi nding a ments and sprinkler installations in build- of the Wal-Mart’s loss-leader strategy. with little in the way of service. niche, she said. ings downtown, created two public spaces Sam’s had already started to shift its Currently downtown Brattleboro The specialist who came to Brattleboro in the downtown area, established and co- product focus to more upscale lines and boasts numerous clothing stores, shoe pointed out that in the Midwest, where ordinated a number of annual town events higher quality merchandise prior to the stores, jewelry stores, restaurants, a natu- Wal-Mart had opened stores miles out- to draw people downtown, helped the arrival of Wal-Mart. That position helped ral foods cooperative, thrift stores, book side or on the edge of towns, the life was town raise funds for and build a new park- them survive, plus they stayed price stores, music stores, home furnishings often “sucked out of downtown areas” ing structure, and developed a business competitive on the products Wal-Mart stores, a hardware store, an independent because traffic patterns shifted, said recruitment package and recruited new had designated as loss leaders. In the drugstore, sporting goods stores, banks Greg Worden, owner of three business- businesses. Today the number of vacant grand scheme of things, it was doable to and other fi nancial institutions, art galler- es located on Main Street in downtown retail storefronts is fi ve or six, and its been carry some products alongside Wal-Mart, ies and a computer store that just opened Brattleboro. Worden and his wife own much lower than that for many years. Borofsky said. and set up wireless Internet access. Some Vermont Artisan Designs, Kitchen Sync Business owners said that downtown- As is often stressed, providing a differen- of those businesses have been there for and Melange, which sell the works of focused events ranging from sidewalk tiation point builds a loyal customer base. years, but many are recent additions. local artists, kitchenware and bath and sales to the annual literary festival, agri- “Find a niche to go after and be the ex- The town could face a new challenge body products, respectively. Brattleboro’s cultural festival and the monthly Gallery pert in that fi eld,” said Gary Chabot, area from Wal-Mart, in the form of a proposed location as the gateway from Vermont Walk party have helped keep downtown a business advisor for Southeast Vermont new Supercenter, also in Hinsdale. The over the river to the Wal-Mart in New destination for shoppers. with the Vermont Small Business company would like to move from its Hampshire was a boon, he said. For a downtown to stay viable it needs Development Center, a nonprofi t organi- current 105,000-square-foot location to a “If you’re going to have a Wal-Mart, it’s a good mix of businesses offering a strong zation whose mission is to advise small 190,000-square-foot site further from the best if they can be next door versus being product mix, and it needs reasons for businesses. Prior to joining the VTSBDC, Vermont border. The company has 10 years on the other side of town,” said Brad people to go downtown, Borofsky said. Chabot was a consultant who did work of a 25-year lease left on its original site. 12 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 13, 2007 WWD.COM Financial

ronment and hypercompetitive re- tail landscape, it is imperative that retailers turn wants into needs with Volatility Continues on innovative marketing and trend-right merchandise.” quity markets closed Friday in Before the U.S. stock market are no buyers because everyone is a credit crunch, whether in the sub- And Wall Street will be looking Erelative calm after another roll- opened, the Fed pumped $19 billion waiting for risk to be repriced; it was prime mortgage sector or beyond, will to department stores such as Macy’s er-coaster week, taking retail stocks into the banking system to keep the too easy to get a loan.” trickle down to the average consumer. Inc.; Nordstrom Inc.; J.C. Penney Co., along for the ride, as Wall Street federal funds interest rate at 5.25 Chen said the Fed’s statement Investors and analysts are hop- and Kohl’s Corp. to report second- digested the Federal Reserve’s de- percent. That is the interest rate that can be read two ways. One is that the ing for back-to-school shopping to quarter results this week. cision to leave a key interest rate banks charge each other for overnight Fed is taking action that will benefi t pick up after weak consumer traffi c “We expect Macy’s to post re- target unchanged and, instead, loans, and is one of the areas where the markets. The second is the Fed caused the majority of apparel retail- sults to the high end of their down- infuse the troubled credit markets the Fed has some measure of infl u- action translates into a recognition of ers to miss same-store sales expec- ward revised [earnings per share] with liquidity. ence. By the end of the day, the Fed a problem. tations for July, which was reported range for the quarter as sales for The Dow Jones Industrial Average pumped a total of $38 billion into “That they actually see a prob- last week. July were within the planned range,” lost 0.2 percent to 13,239.54; the banking system. lem is not so good, hence why the “We will keep a close eye over said UBS analysts Jeffrey Edelman, the Nasdaq slipped 0.5 percent to “The Fed is trying to calm down market is all over the place,” Chen the next few weeks to see if, in fact, Brian Nagel and Michelle Tan in a 2544.89, and the S&P 500 gained the markets by injecting liquidity said. “No one really knows and back-to-school and back-to-work joint research note. “We expect any 0.04 percent to 1,453.64. into the fi xed income markets,” said [Wall] Street hates uncertainty, and shopping is simply starting later this downward revisions to full year to be The S&P Retail Index closed the Needham & Co. LLC analyst Christine for retail in general, it once again year or if the problem is more sys- modest considering that [the second week up 0.3 percent to 470.82. Chen. “Liquidity in the credit markets brings up concerns about consumer tematic,” said Telsey Advisory Group quarter] is a small quarter and cata- On Friday, the Fed said it would is having a good balance between spending.” founder Dana Telsey in a research lysts for improvement are skewed to provide liquidity “to facilitate the order- buyers and sellers and between sup- Chen expects retail stock volatility note. “We continue to believe that [second half].” ly functioning of fi nancial markets.” ply and demand, and right now there to last throughout the summer on fears in this challenging consumer envi- — Erica Owen Weekly Stocks Fast Stats 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE 84.92 53.75 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 15.6 148642 73.11 4.11 46.16 23.50 Jos. A Bank (JOSB) 11.9 70964 29.49 -2.63 28.75 21.19 Acadia (AKR) 54.3 26862 23.35 1.05 34.84 21.52 Kellwood (KWD) 21.8 47695 23.24 -0.54 47.82 21.07 Aéropostale (ARO) 15.3 159796 32.10 -3.55 28.32 19.09 Kenneth Cole (KCP) 16.6 16434 20.00 0.47 Percent gain of 26.07 17.01 Alberto Culver (ACV) 10.1 103098 22.80 -0.21 72.79 60.95 Kimberly Clark (KMB) 17.7 164784 68.21 0.58 3.45 1.88 Alpha Pro Tech (APT) 15.6 2501 2.15 -0.02 53.60 33.74 Kimco Realty (KIM) 28.3 139148 39.68 1.98 emerging equity market 34.80 22.25 Amricn Eagle Outfttrs (AEO) 12.4 342108 22.63 -0.87 79.55 56.40 Kohls (KSS) 17.0 345703 58.18 0.86 returns for July: 4.5 45.15 28.08 Ann Taylor (ANN) 15.2 184845 28.44 -0.76 37.81 21.57 K-Swiss (KSWS) 15.0 33917 24.22 1.91 8.61 6.01 Ashworth (ASHW) - 3139 6.47 0.27 22.99 11.49 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 18.5 1207 19.08 0.18 41.85 27.50 Avon (AVP) 28.7 261006 34.16 -0.84 15.28 11.37 Lakeland Inds (LAKE) 17.6 511 11.98 -1.31 15.75 6.03 Bakers (BKRS) - 727 5.89 -0.35 32.60 22.24 Limited Brands (LTD) 15.0 428083 23.25 0.44 Percent gain of 26.86 12.35 Bebe (BEBE) 17.7 103889 13.96 0.95 24.23 8.66 Liquidity Services (LQDT) 39.4 26254 13.57 0.66 40.00 28.65 Benetton (BNG) 41.5 516 30.32 -3.18 46.84 33.24 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) 17.8 109809 34.97 0.27 emerging market 18.00 10.76 Big Dog (BDOG) 789.5 454 15.19 -0.22 13.15 3.51 LJ Intl (JADE) 23.6 30462 6.79 0.39 9.60 7.00 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) 6.8 77 7.28 0.03 39.39 26.81 Luxottica (LUX) 24.2 12734 35.71 0.28 returns for the 12- 39.15 25.18 BJs (BJ) 21.6 138595 31.12 -0.80 103.59 69.87 Macerich (MAC) 97.6 53745 78.94 4.16 5.10 0.88 Blue (BLUE) - 8023 0.93 -0.21 46.70 32.31 Macy’s Inc. (M) 16.2 389567 33.63 -0.07 month period ended 1.60 0.80 Bluefly (BFLY) 9.7 3300 0.92 -0.07 24.49 13.60 Maidenform (MFB) 11.0 28619 16.20 -0.22 July: 53.9 57.66 20.23 Bon-Ton (BONT) 13.2 64754 21.77 -1.60 56.64 31.66 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 16.5 48228 48.95 1.27 37.68 19.14 Brown Shoe (BWS) 12.7 61541 21.18 1.19 26.31 18.27 Marcus (MCS) 18.7 16196 21.19 1.74 41.45 22.25 Buckle (BKE) 16.3 12823 37.06 2.79 57.65 15.01 Mothers Work (MWRK) 21.2 15136 16.62 -3.87 26.32 12.50 Cache (CACH) 43.3 32958 16.20 -0.01 35.40 20.55 Movado (MOV) 15.2 18163 30.55 2.77 Percent gain of 28.57 15.34 Capitalsource (CSE) 11.5 271790 18.51 -0.40 3.50 0.73 Movie Star (MSI) - 1451 2.24 -0.05 30.18 19.40 Carter (CRI) - 53647 21.82 1.78 25.95 20.20 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 16.3 72520 23.08 1.53 developed equity 15.10 9.98 Casual Male (CMRG) 10.4 65384 11.17 1.12 16.20 7.26 New York & Co. (NWY) 10.7 80259 7.38 -1.59 25.66 17.82 Cato (CTR) 11.6 31720 19.02 -1.52 60.35 37.76 Nike (NKE) 18.2 264417 55.78 -0.72 market returns for July: 50.36 28.36 CBL (CBL) 26.3 50582 29.48 -0.53 9.38 2.05 Nitches (NICH) 257.0 1840 2.49 -0.18 12.74 8.94 CCA (CAW) 14.1 1647 9.30 -0.19 59.70 33.06 Nordstrom (JWN) 18.6 281067 48.66 2.59 2 12.50 3.90 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) 17.7 4610 4.26 0.14 28.80 15.10 Oakley (OO) 37.7 24511 28.45 0.06 33.93 15.56 Charlotte Russe (CHIC) 10.0 73887 16.89 0.50 6.77 3.25 Orange 21 (ORNG) - 242 6.00 -0.27 15.57 7.67 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) 9.9 301907 8.97 -0.23 25.00 5.00 Orchids Paper (TIS) 93.0 31 6.75 0.50 Percent gain of 68.31 31.77 Chattem (CHTT) 25.4 36941 62.88 5.54 53.98 36.03 Oxford (OXM) 12.5 16967 39.84 1.54 48.76 33.65 Cherokee (CHKE) 10.6 10574 37.65 3.12 23.11 13.12 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) 46.5 226008 14.39 -1.56 developed equity 27.94 17.26 Chico’s (CHS) 20.8 207828 17.97 -0.02 8.39 2.63 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) - 26940 3.35 -0.03 71.81 31.02 Children’s Place (PLCE) 12.2 82918 31.90 0.77 37.20 22.07 Payless Shoes (PSS) 11.9 139120 24.01 -0.52 market returns for the 31.25 13.37 Christopher & Banks (CBK) 19.3 81145 14.64 0.94 35.22 15.59 Perry Ellis (PERY) 15.3 20778 27.92 0.32 43.83 34.98 Cintas (CTAS) 18.0 77954 37.61 1.58 62.19 33.89 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 20.0 65775 54.17 1.47 12-month period ended 49.72 25.75 Citi Trends (CTRN) 18.1 66505 26.15 -6.93 5.65 1.38 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) - 335 3.22 -0.03 54.00 28.29 Coach (COH) 25.7 327656 44.99 -0.97 18.71 11.19 Playtex (PYX) 29.0 82695 18.04 0.05 July: 21.5 31.25 16.77 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) 34.6 134314 19.83 0.55 102.58 56.24 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 19.7 173144 77.40 -9.87 70.16 58.45 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 21.0 168170 66.95 0.75 26.93 11.62 PriceSmart (PSMT) 44.1 9540 22.67 0.42 70.93 46.65 Clmbia Sprtswer (COLM) 16.1 21350 61.27 0.72 1.66 0.06 Quaker Fabric (QFAB) - 12499 0.08 -0.02 SOURCE: STANDARD AND POOR’S. 32.19 17.61 Conns (CONN) 13.3 25268 22.50 -0.16 16.08 10.90 Quiksilver (ZQK) 26.7 250416 13.42 0.33 65.57 46.00 Costco (COST) 27.0 312201 63.25 2.76 13.14 6.00 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 20.9 3338 10.21 -0.50 11.64 7.75 Cost U Less (CULS) 16.2 703 9.85 -0.75 39.55 28.51 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 9.3 18527 29.48 -1.12 61.35 12.37 Crocs (CROX) 35.7 344070 50.35 -8.27 93.49 62.24 Regency Centers (REG) 32.3 35072 67.49 1.49 12.30 4.37 Culp (CFI) - 4576 10.00 -1.88 23.30 11.77 Retail Ventures (RVI) - 42091 11.95 -0.11 WWD Index 5.00 1.33 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 1220 1.52 -0.08 1.75 0.99 Revlon (REV) - 120903 1.14 0.04 29.97 22.68 Deb Shops (DEBS) 18.0 1793 26.46 0.29 19.23 10.67 Rocky Brands (RCKY) 17.0 3982 11.05 -1.47 113.50 40.55 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 35.2 51258 95.05 -5.08 35.17 22.12 Ross Stores (ROST) 15.8 141705 28.35 0.77 12.00 6.00 Delia’s (DLIA) 44.4 12040 6.23 0.05 23.25 14.10 Saks (SKS) - 212003 19.23 0.77 Composite 20.50 14.91 Delta Apparel (DLA) 14.3 1117 18.95 -0.95 195.18 129.30 Sears (SHLD) 13.2 128058 133.10 1.52 10.58 6.00 Delta Galil (DELT) - 85 6.06 -0.53 35.26 18.89 Shoe Carnival (SCVL) 12.1 13764 21.49 0.96 960.68 72.33 46.28 Devloprs Diversfied (DDR) 25.5 93597 48.92 1.13 7.93 2.08 Shoe Pavilion (SHOE) - 2067 2.70 0.12 40.56 22.37 Dillard’s (DDS) 7.9 234873 24.25 -1.37 123.96 81.19 Simon Properties (SPG) 46.6 147903 90.99 5.96 24.93 15.95 Dress Barn (DBRN) 10.9 130112 17.26 -0.07 38.03 19.31 Skechers (SKX) 12.8 77816 20.31 -0.24 44.71 26.71 DSW (DSW) 21.0 39211 32.48 0.99 5.90 3.31 Sport-Haley (SPOR) - 167 3.77 -0.26 42.06 33.67 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) 48.1 138 40.00 0.00 18.00 9.48 Stein Mart (SMRT) 12.5 48803 9.84 -0.24 14.27 6.50 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 17312 10.42 -0.14 5.00 2.72 Stephan (TSC) - 100 3.90 -0.03 24.73 13.63 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) 20.7 39087 20.86 0.31 44.70 23.50 Steve Madden (SHOO) 12.0 55597 25.86 0.20 9.97 52.31 34.88 Estée Lauder (EL) 21.8 114738 43.35 -1.19 20.50 12.33 Stride Rite (SRR) 21.7 44166 20.39 0.02 34.98 12.65 Everlast Worldwide (EVST) 44.9 1308 31.50 -0.26 13.54 11.35 Superior Uniform (SGC) 44.1 422 11.80 -0.55 35.42 22.56 Family Dollar (FDO) 16.9 199180 26.11 -2.15 22.08 13.14 Syms (SYM) 47.0 4818 16.39 3.21 14.97 5.50 Finish Line (FINL) 10.9 87197 5.47 -0.43 31.00 19.50 Talbots (TLB) 138.6 68205 21.89 1.04 26.16 24.20 Forest City (FCY) 31.1 97 24.31 -0.57 2.15 0.65 Talon Intl. (TLN) 47.0 1470 0.93 -0.01 31.97 16.96 Fossil (FOSL) 19.0 51861 27.37 2.48 13.70 9.27 Tandy Brands (TBAC) 21.1 255 11.54 -0.20 15.74 10.96 Freds (FRED) 16.2 40239 10.99 -0.54 8.32 6.00 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 12.0 1378 6.80 -0.45 Weekly % Changes 40.06 31.12 G&K (GKSR) 18.8 7848 38.27 2.22 43.56 30.30 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 55.2 27088 36.95 3.74 19.16 9.80 Gaiam (GAIA) 61.0 24535 17.90 2.99 70.75 45.50 Target (TGT) 18.7 630385 62.36 1.85 (ending Aug. 10) 21.39 15.50 Gap (GPS) 17.8 921431 16.75 0.31 2.20 0.96 Tarrant Apparel (TAGS) - 6855 1.28 0.12 67.43 42.40 General Growth (GGP) 41.7 182888 50.95 4.13 63.87 39.15 Taubman (TCO) 72.9 35145 51.11 2.06 Gainers Close Change 54.15 26.49 Genesco (GCO) 18.7 43427 48.50 0.25 12.73 6.52 Tefron (TFR) 8.1 3158 6.66 -0.59 26.74 9.03 G-III Apparel (GIII) 11.1 13845 16.07 0.85 56.79 29.63 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 23.0 250349 44.68 -3.84 Syms 16.39 24.36 37.68 22.86 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 18.2 26384 35.00 2.75 33.45 20.58 Timberland (TBL) 15.9 66695 22.03 -0.08 Gaiam 17.90 20.05 29.69 19.39 Glimcher (GRT) - 23604 20.85 0.97 30.24 25.01 TJ Maxx (TJX) 15.8 260690 27.52 0.22 15.37 6.60 Gottschalks (GOT) 32.2 6622 6.54 -0.47 23.88 14.65 True Religion (TRLG) 21.9 48104 19.70 0.89 Volcom 40.56 18.22 53.46 19.78 Guess (GES) 32.8 88094 49.52 3.15 47.00 31.05 Tween Brands (TWB) 20.0 52531 39.24 1.63 49.11 29.06 Gymboree (GYMB) 16.2 83730 40.16 -1.42 73.40 32.20 Under Armour (UA) 72.9 132800 66.44 1.73 Unifirst 44.00 17.65 20.25 11.76 Hampshire (HAMP) 14.7 450 17.00 -1.90 3.07 1.69 Unifi (UFI) - 10378 2.00 -0.11 Zumiez 41.80 14.58 33.73 17.75 (HBI) - 63496 28.51 -0.73 48.00 29.99 Unifirst (UNF) 17.6 8273 44.00 6.60 8.69 5.50 Hartmarx (HMX) 90.0 21620 7.96 -0.24 20.00 8.45 United Retail (URGI) 11.4 11839 9.82 -0.04 29.26 16.18 Helen of Troy (HELE) 11.5 25826 22.66 1.64 27.75 14.28 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 28.8 294997 21.72 1.52 Decliners Close Change 14.45 7.47 Hot Topic (HOTT) 24.3 115027 8.04 -0.24 96.20 66.23 VF Corp. (VFC) 17.9 58037 89.30 2.83 4.45 0.92 House of Taylor (HOTJ) - 1986 0.96 -0.01 51.00 18.80 Volcom (VLCM) 35.1 54317 40.56 6.25 Quaker Fabrics 0.08 -22.12 40.99 25.08 IAC Interactive (IACI) 41.5 290804 27.30 -0.10 52.15 43.48 Wal-Mart (WMT) 15.6 1087189 46.07 0.55 23.83 13.09 Iconix (ICON) 25.5 121921 21.51 1.81 41.17 16.46 Warnaco (WRNC) 14.8 83854 33.98 -2.41 Citi Trends 26.15 -20.95 2.45 0.37 Innovo (INNO) - 11521 1.96 -0.08 52.30 35.75 Weingarten (WRI) 29.4 65869 40.14 3.14 29.18 15.75 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 25.5 8973 22.34 1.31 32.07 19.99 Weyco (WEYS) 14.8 1846 29.72 2.73 Mothers Work 16.62 -18.89 57.17 24.57 J. Crew (JCG) 27.8 84658 51.00 5.02 3.70 1.01 Wilsons (WLSN) - 3352 1.69 -0.24 Blue 18.42 -18.42 87.18 62.20 J.C. Penney (JCP) 12.8 263894 64.12 -1.61 31.08 24.40 Wolverine (WWW) 15.8 35193 27.74 2.06 14.25 7.21 Jaclyn (JLN) 21.3 60 9.80 -0.94 31.72 20.55 Zale (ZLC) 38.9 96027 22.99 2.29 New York & Co. 7.38 -17.73 35.54 18.13 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 167311 18.60 -1.91 46.94 20.00 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 57.6 85454 41.80 5.32 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 13, 2007 13 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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Visual Merchandiser & Store Design Planner

Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. Surround yourself with the warmth of Pierre Deux, the premier source for No Lot Too Big or Too Small. French Country home furnishings in the U.S. Visual Merchandiser and Call CLOTHES-OUT: Store Design Planner position available immediately in our corporate (937) 898-2975 headquarters located in Secaucus, New Jersey. Looking for a candidate who will ensure that the Company’s presentations are representative and consistent with the brand image through out all envi- ronments including retail, catalog and special events as well as participate Concept One Accessories, the ALASKA FUR in and coordinate all aspects of the planning and build-out of new stores premier resource for licensed during ongoing company expansion. fashion, sports, and entertainment GALLERY accessories is looking to fill the Alaska and Park City, Utah Experience necessary - Competitive salary, benefits, generous employee following positions based in Premier Furriers is looking for discount and the ability to exercise creativity make this a great working their New York headquarters: Fashion Show Loft select fine womens specialty environment. Please Fax or E-mail resume with salary requirements to: Mid-Town • 125 Guests stores nationwide for: 201-319-0719 / [email protected] • Sr Designer/Design Director All Inclusive Set Trunk Shows/Consignment Responsibilities: all aspects of Sound, Video, & Lighting development design including 4 Shows Daily and Lease Depts. We have ShopStudios.com a fantastic collection of high trend research, forecasting, prod- Jacques Rosas • 212-245-6154 uct design & execution. 5 years fashion & fine quality furs, design experience. Proficiency in shearlings & fur accessories. Illustrator and Photoshop. Knowl- edge of tech construction a must. FOR DETAILS CALL/EMAIL We are rapidly growing and looking for experienced and MICHAEL BOETTCHER AT: committed professionals to fill the following positions: • Children’s Designer Responsibilities: all aspects of 214-717-9121 or Retail Store Managers & Sales Associates children’s development design [email protected] Seeking experienced Retail Store Managers and Sales Associ- including trend research, forecast- ates for our Meatpacking District, Soho, Manhasset, East ing, product design & execution. Hampton, and future Las Vegas and Los Angeles locations. • Production Coordinators - Candidates must come from a luxury background with 3-5 Bags & Headwear years experience, have a proven track record driving sales, Responsibilities: management of excellent customer service and strong operational skills. daily production for headwear, Great opportunity for growth. sample development, placing Please email resumes to: [email protected] production, and negotiating prices.

Search For Space In Garment Center Purchasing Agent To qualify for the positions listed, Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee Designer $80-120K BOE. Current exp you must have appropriate experi- www.midcomre.com in mens urban /jeans /wovens brand. FIND JOBS!!! Bliss... ence, aptitude to be part of a Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Production Coord Midtown growing company. [email protected] ...anything less would be stress! team, organizational skills, ability Est’d ladies wear co seeks candi- Email: [email protected] Founded in 1996, bliss was spotted by to handle multiple demands, excel- Showrooms & Lofts beauty-obsessed buzz-makers and quickly BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS date to control & coordinate all Designer Associate to $50K. Min 1-2 Graphic Artist $45-55K. Min 1 yr exp in lent time management skills, and years experience in boys. Size 2-20. Illustrator, Photoshop. Able to massaged its way to the top. Bliss is Great ’New’ Office Space Avail phases from creation of PO, heavy seeking a PURCHASING AGENT stellar communication skills. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Urban/active/denim. Mdtn growing co. layout planograms. Sketch on CAD. correspondence w/factories, track- Email: [email protected] to coordinate the purchasing efforts for Bergen/ Hudson County, NJ area. Please send your resumes and ing of shipments and Import/Bank Email: [email protected] third party vendors. Responsibilities Designer Associate to $60K. Min 2 yrs exp include purchase order processing, obtain- salary requirements with the documentation. Good comm skills in intimate apparel. Bergen/Hudson ing vendor signatures, issue standard & computer proficiency a must. County, NJ area. Strong career oppty. cost forms, communicate and resolve position you are applying for in Email: [email protected] GRAPHIC ARTIST issues and delays in a timely manner, the subject header to: Please email resume to: track orders, review receiving documents [email protected] Major Apparel company seeks graphic [email protected]. artist with experience in girls infant and reconcile against PO . This person Premium SOHO DESIGNER will also be responsible for resolving Contemporary knitwear co. seeks de- to 6X. Individual must be creative and detail oriented. Responsibilities invoice issues & inventory discrepancies. Showroom For Share Accountant/Controller to $110K. Mid- signer with min. 5 years expr. Ability Must be a good negotiator and be able Sourcing Manager 3400 sq ft loft w/ 15 ft ceilings & large to sense trends, well organized, techni- include executing the art from start Min of 5 yrs exp. in management of town luxury European jewelry co. to finish packages for production. Will to analyze the biz. Seeking those with windows/ Private Office / Conf Rm / Strong exp in financials/ computer cal, knowledge of photoshop and illus- an eye for spying and like to live on Sourcing/Price Negotiation/Production Shared Selling Space trator. E-mail to: [email protected] work with mock up samples and the as it relates to importing from China. systems/ operations. Career Oppty. embroidery department. the edge (as any "agent" should). Prior Please Call: (212) 302-5470 Email: [email protected] purchasing experience is a must. E-mail Prefer candidate w/exp in home textiles, DESIGNER FAX RESUMES TO : 212-730-9705 to: [email protected] but would also consider candidates APPAREL/HOME FASHION Designer wanted for a Promotional from fabric/apparel industries. Must SRI SEARCH INC Company to design a range of totes, have exp w/negotiating price of fabric WWW.SRISEARCH.COM briefcases/ backpacks /duffels. Human Resources Mgr $60-85K RECEPTIONIST and finished product w/ China. Will 212-465-8300 Email resume with references to: Established jean company looking for have P/L accountability. Must under- RUN YOUR OWN DEPT! stand the product development process Allen Platt /Jennifer Glenn [email protected] Payroll, Benefit Admin, Recruiting. an energetic friendly person to oversee [email protected] front desk & handle multi line phone and international sourcing. Must be Any Accessory Experience a Plus! detail- oriented and have great organi- Broadway Garment Center [email protected] DESIGNER $$$$$ SALARY BASED ON EXPERIENCE system. Must be professional in all as- pects including appearance, demeanor zational, operational & communication NICE OFFICE + SHOWROOM Girls 4-16 Tops. Mass Market. Call Laurie 212-947-3399 or skills. Must speak/ read/write English AVAILABLE TO SHARE [email protected] e-mail: [email protected] & dependability. Assist with office du- ASSOCIATE DESIGNER ties as needed. Computer skills a must. and Mandarin. Willing to travel overseas Please Call 917-907-1667 High-end sweater company seeks an KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS to China (approx 6x/yr). Position based Designer Please fax or e-mail your resume to: associate designer for a young and [email protected] or 212-354-4418 in Edison, NJ. Salary commensurate contemporary sweater line. Must have Handbag Designer with experience. at least 3 years of fashion design expe- Inventory Planner/Accessories $70K Please send your resume to: rience, preferably sweater design expe- Leading Handbag Co. is looking for an Wholesale for Public Company Retail Inventory Planner $50-65K Exp [email protected] rience. Photoshop a must. Email to: energetic, creative Handbag Designer. GREAT Department/Benefits!! in forecasting/analysis of tracking in- [email protected] The ideal candidate must have minimum Call Laurie 212-947-3399 or ventory to be recommended to meet of 3 years experience and excellent e-mail: [email protected] sales projections. MS Excel. College SPEC TECHNICIAN BUYER ...... TO 90K sketching abilities. CAD, Photoshop & KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS degree helpful. Good math skills. Bergen/ Mid-town apparel importer is looking NJ Loc HF/Apparel Mandarin Illustrator experience a must. Salary and Hudson county N.J. area apparel co. for an experienced and professional Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 benefit package is commiserate with [email protected] Spec Technician to handle private [email protected] experience. If interested in joining a JEWELRY EOE M/F label accounts. Strong knowledge of www.srisearch.com successful company please Fax your grading, garment construction and fit- resume to: 212-329-4930 SALES ASSISTANT to $45K REDUCE YOUR SALES ASSISTANT tings. We are looking for a team player CONTROLLER We are a jewelry company located in AS400 Nec. Great Growth Oppty. with excellent computer and commu- DESIGNER • Knitwear Long Island City, in business for 30 [email protected] nication skills. Great company benefits. SHIPPING COSTS!!! A $60m+, fast paced multi-divisional Fax or email resume to: 212-471-0330 apparel mfg seeks individual to set up Better Women’s Knitwear Co. seeks exp’d. years. We sell to major retailers includ- We are a Garment Manufacturer seeking to ing QVC, Walmart & Kmart. Our annual or [email protected] share shipping costs. We have a state of the and prepare mo divisional budgets and Designer w/contemporary eye. Must be SAMPLE MAKER financial statements. This individual creative, organized, energetic individual sales exceed 100M and we employ over art facility located in Secaucus, New Jersey. 250 people. We are looking for candi- Growing Women’s Couture Co. seeks Clean, organized, computerized and seeking will be involved in all aspects of the w/some technical skill and ability to highly skilled & experienced individual. business. Min 15 yrs apparel acctng communicate overseas. Must draw well. dates to join our sales department as a TECHNICAL DESIGNER other garment companies to share shipping sales assistant. To qualify, you should Stable position. Emphasis on evening. costs with us. We ship and receive domestic exp req. Send resumes in confidence to: F/T or P/T. Salary open. E-mail resume Please call: 212-869-2296 or Major apparel company seeks technical [email protected] to: [email protected] have a strong computer background designer for junior girls line "Pastry" and foreign product. and must be proficient in Excel. You fax resume to: 212-869-2236. To discuss this opportunity, please from the hit MTV show "Run’s House. will report to an account executive and Responsibilities include developing email: [email protected] or DESIGNER assist in the operations of the sales call 212-869-3300 x332. DATA PROCESSING Major apparel company seeks designer graded size specs, conducting fittings, team including: order management, Seeking an energetic CEO communicating fit comments and cor- Seeking motivated individual for entry specializing in Girls 4-16 tops knits and inventory forecasting, order follow up level data processing position using wovens. Mass market experience a plus. 7 year old international Accessory Co. respondence with factories. and daily contact with buyers and re- based in Los Angeles, CA specializing in FAX RESUMES TO: 212-730-9705 AS400. We will provide training. Individual must be organized and able tail assistants. Previous accessory or FAX RESUMES TO: 212-730-9705 to work in a fast paced environment. New Born Accessories, as well as high- jewelry wholesale experience a plus. end Handbags sold to better Specialty & Excellent salary and benefits. Please Compensation: $28,000-$35,000. Full time Textile Artist $50-65K BOE. Current exp Design Fax resumes to: 212-730-9705 Dept. Stores, and is a recognized brand in creative plaids/prints for newborn position with benefits package. Quali- both in the USA and internationally. fied candidates reply via email or fax to: Layette mkt. Kids fashion trends. Assistant Designer Design PATTERN/SAMPLES Fast growing infant apparel co. seeking [email protected] or 718-349-4424. •Are you a seasoned Sales Pro with Strong knowledge of construction of organized & motivated assistant design- Freelance Men’s Designer JACMEL JEWELRY INC. national sales management experience? fabric. Email: [email protected] Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast er with strong communication skills. •Do you understand what it takes to work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 The creators who have introduced us to source and produce product to the Must be a team player w/ability to multi LaRoK are seeking a motivated & detail task & meet deadlines. Proficiency in quality specifications and set up TRIM ASSISTANT Patterns/Samples/Production oriented Freelance Men’s Designer. Must JUNIOR TECH DESIGNER Time Action Calendars? Illustrator is a must. Excellent benefits know Photoshop & Illustrator. Please Large public womens wear co. seeks a Women’s Apparel Co. seeks Assistant Any Style. We do Bridal/Evening offered. Please email resumes to: •Do you understand basic accounting Fax resume to: 212-719-0392 or E-mail Jr. Tech Designer with 1-2 years min- controls for procurement of product for trim department with 1 to 3 years Gowns custom made & wholesale. [email protected] experience. Must be computer literate. Call: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 to: [email protected] imum experience in many classifica- and daily operations? tions. Must be proficient in Photoshop •Are you tired of the large corporate Please Fax or email resume to: DESIGN ASSISTANT DESIGN/SALES OPPTY / Illustrator. Team worker, able to work politics, and do you desire to build a 212-658-9416 or [email protected] PATTERNS, SAMPLES, with design, sales and communicate team in a uniquely focused market? Luxury Branded Intimate Apparel Co. La Regale, a leading importer of social PRODUCTIONS occasion handbags seeks an assertive, clearly overseas. Fast paced environ- Please E-mail your resume to: seeks a detail-oriented and organized ment. Competitive salary/full benefits. All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. self motivated person with the ability [email protected] Design Assistant to help in all areas of Please fax resume to 212-556-5462/5398 Call Sherry 212-719-0622. design. Proficiency in Photoshop and to work independently. Involvement in Illustrator required. Degree in fashion sales & product. Opportunity to learn design is also required and experience the business with tremendous growth PATTERNS, SAMPLES, potential. Job responsibilities include Production Coordinator $40-55K BOE. Chi- in intimate apparel is preferred. Please nese /Eng bi-ling req’d. Min 1-2 yrs exp. PRODUCTIONS E-mail your cover letter & resume to: tradeshow set up & attendance in addi- tion to working with small stores. Learn Knowledge construction of garments/ SENIOR DESIGNER Full service shop to the trade. [email protected] fabric. Mdtn. [email protected] Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. all phases of product development Leading apparel company seeking ex- Designer $80-120K BOE. Current exp while contributing to the design effort. perienced designer with contemporary PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD in mens knit tops. Must have similar Computer skills are a must & travel is *Production or Product* RTW sportswear background in wom- fashion vision of American Eagle, required. Only serious applicants looking Assistants-Coordinators-Managers en’s. Experience in both knits and High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- for a career need apply. Please e-mail Many Jobs-Excellent Salaries wovens a necessity. Please email your sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Abercrombie & Fitch, Aeropostale etc. Mdtn growing co. [email protected] your resume to: [email protected]. Call B. Murphy(212)643-8090; fax 643-8127 resume to: [email protected] WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 13, 2007 15 WWD.COM

Kentucky Summer Classic. “We go Agent Provocateur Opens Fashion Scoops to Kentucky every weekend for about THE GREAT SELL-OFF: Nosy types will be able to catch a six months to 2nd Bloomingdale’s Shop glimpse of Louise MacBain’s vast fashion closet on Sept. our horse farm,” 12 when the multimillionaire and art collector auctions her said Badgley. By Chloe Popescu handbag and footwear collection at Christie’s in London. “We keep horses She’s downsizing, you see, from a Holland Park mansion to there, all of whom COSTA MESA, Calif.— British lingerie brand Agent a Norman Foster-designed fl at in Battersea, and just won’t are show horses. Provocateur has opened its second U.S. in-store shop, at have the room for all the Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Hermès, The rest of the Bloomingdale’s at South Coast Plaza here. Asprey and Cartier stuff. According to Christie’s — which year they spend The company’s fi rst Stateside shop-in-shop opened only confi rmed the details of “a house sale,” although it’s STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY in Palm Beach.” last year at Bloomingdale’s in Manhattan. Agent been widely reported in the British press the loot belongs Mark Badgley and James Mischka Lucky lucky. Provocateur operates a total of 32 locations worldwide, to MacBain — the auction is expected to fetch in excess including 21 in Europe, six in the U.S., three in Russia of $3 million and will include belts and handbags from PENNY ROYAL: The Bar Marmont in Los Angeles was a and one in both the Middle East and Hong Kong. all the big luxury brands. And lots of them: There are 23 swirl of drinks and diamonds Thursday night when Penny superfi ne crocodile leather Kelly handbags in a variety of Preville teamed up with Stolichnaya Elit vodka for a good sizes and colors, with the largest valued at up to $24,000. cause. The jeweler designed four 18-karat pieces that The sale also will include furniture and objects from were auctioned to raise money for the Design Industries MacBain’s Holland Park property and her chalet in Saint Foundation Fighting AIDS. Andrea Fiuczynski, president Moritz, Switzerland. of Christie’s, Los Angeles, revved up the online and live bidders, including Rosario Dawson and Eric Mabius. “Are HORSING AROUND: On the heels of their successful Platinum you armed and ready? Can you show me your paddles?” Handbag launch, Mark Badgley and James Mischka were all she asked. The cuff bracelet, clip-on pendant, earrings smiles Wednesday night at their party to fete the collection. and cuff links, which were displayed on martini glasses Turns out Badgley is a winner outside the design studio, as and red rose petals, ultimately fetched a total of $17,200 well. Earlier this month, one of his horses, Brando, won the for DIFFA. PHOTO BY ROBERT TODD WILLIAMSON ROBERT PHOTO BY The Agent Provocateur in-store shop at Bloomingdale’s. Panel Examines Future of Accessories “Bloomingdale’s is a perfect partner,” said Serena Rees, who co-owns Agent Provocateur with her husband, By Caroline Tell yet exciting and connect with people.” Joseph Corré, the son of Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm In commenting on Anya Hindmarch’s $15 “I’m Not A McLaren. “We had talked to a couple of different stores, NEW YORK — The new dynamics of the accessories mar- Plastic Bag” tote that’s going for over $100 on eBay, Brett but [Bloomingdale’s] was the most positive about future ket, ranging from sustainability and technology to new distinguished the retail concept as a consumer need plans.” Rees declined to disclose projected sales. methods of individuality, were the focus of a panel dis- rather than a simple gimmick. Launched in 1994, Agent Provocateur has been suc- cussion called “Accessorizing the Future,” held Tuesday “If it’s tied to a bigger movement, there’s going to be a cessful in branding its retro-sexy style through its mer- at the Time & Life Building here. demand,” he said. “Those bags are a real zeitgeist of the chandise and boutiques. The panel featured Paola Antonelli, curator of the moment and people were ready to buy into it.” The 650-square-foot boudoir-themed shop at Department of Architecture and Design at the Museum The discussion segued into the current “individual- Bloomingdale’s is a downsized version of a full-size of Modern Art; Yves Behar, founder of design and brand- ist” movement in accessories, where consumers have Agent Provocateur store. Its pink-and-black motif is ac- ing fi rm Fuseproject; Richard Brett, Samsonite’s global opportunities to custom-make everything from their eye- cented by a graphic lace print — etched into cabinets, director of marketing and communications, and Paula glasses to their bags. Panelists agreed today’s customer doors, wallpaper and carpeting — velvet dressing room Donnelly, vice president of product development for feels the need to make a statement with accessories and drapes and miniature crystal chandeliers. Luxottica. The panelists were presented by Kate Betts, that being able to make one often defi nes true luxury. Best-selling looks include fi nely wrought silk bras editor of Time magazine’s Style & Design supplement. “People are looking for something that no one else retailing from $90 to $250, thong underwear from $75 The event was presented by Lenscrafters, which also has,” said Antonelli. to $250, silky robes starting at $450 and ranging underwrote the magazine’s August issue celebrating 25 Brett, whose Samsonite label recently unveiled its from $300 to $400. Specialty hosiery, including fi shnets visionaries in fashion and design. bespoke collection, said, “When an accessory is custom that tie up at the thigh, micronet models and lace looks “We sit somewhere between businesses and the made for a customer, it’s about more than a logo. It’s with back seams all range from $20 to $55. public,” said Behar. “The public wants something good about having an emotional relationship with a product “Everyone understands the beauty of [the lingerie],” and safe, and we have to have our foot planted in both that refl ects one’s individuality. And it’s very in tune said Rees, “the power they get from wearing it, and its camps. We want to make products that are sustainable, with how luxury is evolving.” sense of humor.”

SALES EXECUTIVE SLS ASSOC - KIDS SWIM OPEN $ Growing import company needs moti- Est’d co. seeks sharp individ - "right hand" to Divisional President. Growth travel vated, experienced Sales Executive in following 3 areas…1) Denim, Twills spot with travel. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE and Corduroys - jeans, jackets, and Men’s sportswear co. is seeking an skirts for missy and woman sizes; 2) A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. exp’d salesperson for a new division Loungewear – kaftans, PJ sets, night- 450 7th AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 Handbag Sales in organic apparel. Great launch so shirts, gowns for missy and woman Handbag Designer seeking seasoned far, exciting environment and great sizes. 3) Men’s Sportswear – Shorts, Sales Rep w/current book of business oppty. Must be energetic, creative & Pants, and Shirts with embroidery, (showrooms, etc.) to promote exclusive go-getter in order to sell to major and prints and patches, geared towards Susanna Galanis accessories line. Great 100% commissions specialty stores. metro sexual male customers. Above 3 Highly motivated Sales Reps; All teritories to promote/sell line. Will provide nec- Please fax resume to: (212) 268-3963 positions have salary and commissions available. Candidates must be exp’d. in essary materials for successful sales Please Fax or E-mail all resumes to: the high end fashion jewelry market, and distribution of handbags. E-mail 212-764-2613 / [email protected] and already have existing accounts. For us at: [email protected] Sales Account Executive further information, please visit us at: Major apparel company seeks sales www.sgalanis.com account executive with experience in junior markets for junior girls line SALES "Pastry" from hit MTV show "Run’s Market leader in screen printed apparel House". Will manage existing accounts seeks talented sales professional with and aggressively pursue new sales leads. men’s or women’s screen printed knits UNDERWEAR SALES Retailer contacts a plus. Excellent salary sales experience to service a signifi - Underwear importer seeks experienced and comprehensive benefits package. cant segment of our business with the Sales Reps. Must have contact with mass Fax resumes to: 212-730-9705 majors. This is an exciting position retailers. Please Fax or E-mail to: which pays substantially well for the 718-361-0765 / [email protected] recruitment person with the right qualifications. Sales Director Confidentiality Assured. Growth opportunity with new high-end Please send your resume to: 732-280-6190 Reach top-level decision-makers in retail and manufacturing contemporary women’s Handbag Co. or [email protected] Seeking aggressive, exp’d. individuals KNITWEAR DESIGNER in WWD Marketplace. with est’d. Specialty Store relationships. Sr. level Knitwear Designer w/extensive Travel a must. Base plus commission. market exp., savvy w/latest trends, colors, Minimum 2 years experience. Prior trade extremely technical w/sweaters; seeks show & multi-brand showroom experience FT/PT., E-mail: [email protected] a plus. Please E-mail resumes to: SALES PROFESSIONAL [email protected] Leading Licensed Brand of Boutique Sales Staff Sleepwear & Loungewear seeks a Japanese high-end clothing boutique Call 1-800-423-3314 or email highly motivated & aggressive seeks motivated, F/T Sales Staff for its PATTERNMAKER SALES e-mail: [email protected] individual. Salary plus commission. Finan Dir/Ret’l/NJ/Fshn/Frnch req $120k+ Soho & Upper East Side locations. Experi- 25 years experience. Any line from fpclassifi [email protected] to advertise. Please email resumes to: ence is not necessary but excellent customer Store Mgr/Hi-end jewelry $120k+ [email protected] lingerie, evening or bridal. Source: WWD Subscriber Study, Beta Research Inc., 2005. Acct Exec/Accessories/Hi-end mfr $80k+ service is a must. Fax/E-mail resume to: Please call Lucy 718-239-9423 Retail Sales/Access/Hi-end boutique $35k+ 212-517-8845 / [email protected] WWDDNRCEOSUMMIT STAR –TORYBURCH FORMOREINFORMATIONCALL212.630.4947OREMAILCEOAPPAREL@FAIRCHILDPUB.COM

OCTOBER 29-30, 2007 | THE ST. REGIS HOTEL, NEW YORK CITY

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