BLACK LEAVES FERRAGAMO/2 NICOLE MILLER’S 3RD DATE/8 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • August 13, 2007 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear New Look CHICAGO — Underwear as outerwear may be a fashion cliché, but it works like a charm for Lady GaGa. The New York- based Interscope recording artist took a few moments backstage at Lollapalooza to frolic in some bold, bright pieces. Here, she wears Dolce & Gabbana’s elastic, acetate and polyamide briefs and a mirrored bra of her design with a Madame V belt and Christian Louboutin shoes. For more on the performer, see pages 6 and 7. LED BY MONICA SCHWEIGER LED BY Revamping Aquascutum: U.S. Return Seen Key to Brand Overhaul By Samantha Conti the Thirties through the Fifties, Goodman, and will hit the shop LONDON — Aquascutum is ready for including pieces worn by past floor in mid-August. its comeback. clients such as Marlene Dietrich, The American relaunch is The British brand will return Bette Davis, Audrey Hepburn a key plank in Aquascutum’s to the U.S. this fall with a limited and Sophia Loren. The collection, revitalization plan, which is edition collection of coats and Aquascutum Vintage, will be sold being overseen by Kim Winser, trenches inspired by designs from in the U.S. exclusively at Bergdorf See Aquascutum, Page 10 PHOTO BY JOSIE MINER; HAIR BY AARON LIGHT/CELESTINE TALENT; MAKEUP BY ALFRED LESTER/FORD; FASHION ASSISTANT: LINDSAY SEGAL; STY LINDSAY ASSISTANT: ALFRED LESTER/FORD; FASHION MAKEUP BY AARON LIGHT/CELESTINE TALENT; JOSIE MINER; HAIR BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, AUGUST 13, 2007 WWD.COM Black Exits Ferragamo WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear By Samantha Conti LONDON — Graeme Black, head women’s wear designer at Ferragamo, FASHION has left his post, WWD has learned. When singer Lady GaGa came to Chicago to play Lollapalooza, her Neither Black, nor a Ferragamo 6 HotPants and high boots got her in hot water with the law. spokesman could be reached for comment. GENERAL Black fi rst joined Ferragamo in Aquascutum will make its U.S. comeback this fall with a limited edition 2001 as chief women’s wear designer. coat collection inspired by designs from the Thirties through the Fifties. He quit the company in 2004 following 1 the appointment of Nathalie Gervais The Bush administration said it’s raising civil fi nes against employers as the fi rm’s creative director. 2 who hire undocumented workers and tightening identifi cation methods. But he returned six months later, Bulgari has tripled its South Coast Plaza retail footprint with a new dual- in 2005, as head of women’s wear on a consultancy basis. His last collection 3 concept store opening today in one of the California mall’s power alleys. for Ferragamo will be for spring 2008. Black launched his eponymous Classifi ed Advertisements............................................................13-15 label for fall 2005, together with business partner Jonathan Reed. An To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. industry source said Black intends [email protected], using the individual’s name. to focus increasingly on his own WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT line, and will likely base himself in ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. London. His luxury collection, which VOLUME 194, NO. 32. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one is made in Italy, is sold at stores additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance including Saks Fifth Avenue and Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Browns in London. Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Before joining Ferragamo, Black Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail worked at Giorgio Armani, where he Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return was head designer of the Borgonovo Graeme Black undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: collection. SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list Immigration Move Puts Pressure on Employers available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, By Kristi Ellis regulatory authority to crack president and government re- OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, down on illegal immigration. lations counsel at the National BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR WASHINGTON — The Bush ad- Chertoff ’s agency took the lead Retail Federation. “Now that CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR ministration is taking matters Friday by issuing a fi nal “no- it hasn’t happened, they went DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY into its own hands to curb ille- match” regulation, in which the ahead and did this.” A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. gal immigration without help Social Security Administration Oesterle said the new rule from Congress. will send an employer a letter will increase the pressure on Homeland Security in cases where the business retailers and other companies MONDAY: The U.S. Commerce Department releases the Secretary Michael Chertoff and has a signifi cant number of em- to determine why an employee’s July retail sales report. Commerce Secretary Carlos ployees with inaccurate Social Social Security number does Gutierrez said Friday they are Security numbers. not match up with the govern- TUESDAY: The Commerce Department releases the June raising civil fi nes against em- The “no-match” letter will ment’s database. She also said foreign trade report. ployers who hire undocument- warn employers they may be the rule clarifi es what “know- The U.S. Labor Department releases the Producer ed workers, forcing employers held liable if they ignore prob- ing” means in the agency’s stan- Price Index for July. to resolve identification dis- lems by failing to take specifi ed dards relating to “knowingly” Fossil Inc. and Wal-Mart Stores Inc. report second- crepancies and overhauling steps within 90 days of receiv- hiring illegal immigrants. quarter sales and earnings. temporary worker programs. ing the letter. The agency said “This is a defi nitive rule and The administration’s move on Friday that the regulation takes if the issue cannot be resolved WEDNESDAY: Trafik Tradeshow, Miami Beach (through the immigration front comes in effect in 30 days. within 90 days, the only way em- Friday). the wake of the Senate’s failure The Labor Department releases the Consumer Price in June to pass a sweeping bill Index for July. to overhaul the immigration sys- Macy’s Inc. reports second-quarter sales and earn- tem. The Senate bill would have I think [the Department of Homeland ings. given citizenship to most of the “ estimated 12 million immigrants Security] held off a long time on issuing THURSDAY: Elizabeth Arden Inc. and Estée Lauder Cos. who are in the U.S. illegally, report fourth-quarter and year-end sales and earnings. cracked down on employers who this rule because everyone assumed there Kohl’s Corp. and Nordstrom Inc. report second-quar- hire them, established a guest ter sales and earnings. worker program and provided would be comprehensive reform going billions of dollars in funding for SATURDAY: Atlanta International Apparel & Accessories border security. through Congress. COMING THIS WEEK Market, Fashion Market of San Francisco and Fashion But Democratic leaders — Elizabeth Oesterle,” National Retail Federation Industry Gallery, Dallas, holiday and resort markets failed to get enough support (through Aug. 21). from Republicans, many of whom claimed the legislation “I think [the Department of ployers can protect themselves SUNDAY: Fashion Center Dallas Apparel & Accessories provided “amnesty” for illegal Homeland Security] held off a from being fi ned or worse by Market (through Aug. 22). immigrants, to advance the bill long time on issuing this rule the DHS is to let the person go,” for fi nal passage. because everyone assumed said Oesterle. On Friday, Chertoff and there would be comprehensive The big rub for businesses is Gutierrez said they will use and reform going through Congress,” that government databases are expand tools within their own said Elizabeth Oesterle, vice not foolproof and employers might be forced to let legitimate In Brief employees go due to inaccura- cies.